# Let's get one thing straight



## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

So how would you get the top angled wall straight?
Drop line? Laser? T-square?

Would you hang the lower wall first?

It's non-woven so you can't hang it all in one long strip.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Laser, but make sure it is absolutely perpendicular to the plane of that sloped wall. If it is off to one side by the tiniest bit, the seam will not be vertical.

Another way is to shoot a horizontal line with the laser (which will not be affected by the position of the laser) and then hang to the pattern. That paper has some good horizontal elements to use. 

If, however, the paper does not have good horizontal elements, shoot the horizontal line and then draw a 3-4-5 triangle using that horizontal as the base of the triangle. 

T-square will work IF you can establish a horizontal. 

Plumb lines are near impossible to transfer the line to that wall.

I hang the bottom first as that is usually the most critical for seam and pattern placement.

I find I can never hang any paper ion one long strip because the joint line between wall and slope is NEVER accurate. (I also try to convince folks that slope should be considered CEILING and paint it :thumbsup: )

Wanna know how much fun these room were?


----------



## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

Interesting take on it, thanks. I couldn't buy a laser for just one job, never used one.

This is an old neighborhood, hadn't seen an attic bedroom like this for a while, but yours got mine beat. I might play with faking in the corners.


----------



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

I use a laser. And as Bill said, I use a t-square butted up against the baseboard.
Then I look at it and see if it actually looks plumb.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Underdog said:


> Interesting take on it, thanks. I couldn't buy a laser for just one job, never used one.
> 
> This is an old neighborhood, hadn't seen an attic bedroom like this for a while, but yours got mine beat. I might play with faking in the corners.


UD, get yourself a laser. It's is by far the most useful tool I have. The PLS 180 is by far the best one. 

it WON'T be JUST for one job. 

I seriously do not know how I would do many of the tasks I do without one, or at least do them so quickly and accurately.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

The only other accurate method I developed before I owned a laser was to tape a line out into the room perpendicular with the baseboard. Then I would drop a plumb bob from the slant until it was on that line. I'd do this once as close to the wall as possible and once as close to the real ceiling as possible. Then snap or draw a line between those two points. 

The line out into the room on the floor can be done with either a framing square or a 3-4-5 triangle. 

This method is long and tedious. 

And no, you can not place a spirit level on the slanted surface to determine either horizontal or vertical.

ALTHOUGH, I bet you could use a water level (water in a tube/hose) to determine a horizontal line on the slope surface.

A laser level negates all these contraptions and gyrations:thumbsup:


----------



## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

daArch said:


> UD, get yourself a laser. It's is by far the most useful tool I have. The PLS 180 is by far the best one.
> 
> it WON'T be JUST for one job.
> 
> I seriously do not know how I would do many of the tasks I do without one, or at least do them so quickly and accurately.


 I had a friend who installed everything perfectly true. He always had people remark that it was crooked. He would prove that the wallpaper was perfectly straight and they would back off but they would be disappointed with the job.

I, on the other hand, rarely use levels or plumb bobs. I never have any remarks about my straightness. Basically I hang it to where it's balanced between windows and doors and such. 

When I have long walls, I hang three or four strips at the same time and watch the ceiling line. :2guns: 



:cowboy:


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Underdog said:


> I had a friend who installed everything perfectly true. He always had people remark that it was crooked. He would prove that the wallpaper was perfectly straight and they would back off but they would be disappointed with the job.
> 
> I, on the other hand, rarely use levels or plumb bobs. I never have any remarks about my straightness. Basically I hang it to where it's balanced between windows and doors and such.
> 
> ...


That's the beauty of a good laser. You can lock the H and V beams (so they do not self level) and then set the H beam to the ceiling and hang to the "adjusted" V beam. Looks vertical to the room but it sure ain't to the earth.

But I don't recommend that for a plaid. A plaid vertical element HAS to be hung Earth true. 

Believe me, UD, if you used a laser for 30 days you'd think, "WHY so long it took me"


----------



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

daArch said:


> Believe me, UD, if you used a laser for 30 days you'd think, "WHY so long it took me"


True story. Money well spent.


----------



## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

daArch said:


> That's the beauty of a good laser. You can lock the H and V beams (so they do not self level) and then set the H beam to the ceiling and hang to the "adjusted" V beam. Looks vertical to the room but it sure ain't to the earth.
> 
> But I don't recommend that for a plaid. A plaid vertical element HAS to be hung Earth true.
> 
> Believe me, UD, if you used a laser for 30 days you'd think, "WHY so long it took me"


 What the ....???

What will they think of next??//


:cowboy:


----------

