# Best primer over stained wood trim.



## pkrieg (Oct 28, 2013)

What primer do you use on stained wood trim? So I tried kilz max on stained trim and it covers great in one coat but doesn't adhere as well as oil base Zinzer cover stain. So now I'm back to the zinser oil but don't like working with oil and the dry time is 4 hours. Anyone else experience this and what do you use?


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## Huntercoatings (Aug 16, 2013)

I haven't used kilz max but I've heard good things. I like either zinsser smartprime or zinnser 123 plus. Glidden gripper sticks really nice to slick poly'd wood.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Gotta go with the best stuff. If cover stain is what's doing it for you go with it, if it's Kilz, than use it. Peace of mind means a lot.


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## BPC (Jan 1, 2015)

Cover stain or bin for sure had alot of luck with kill max as well.


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

I would always prefer bin shellac primer over old stained woodwork it dries much faster and seems to not get those oils or grease that migrate and keep the primer soft in those spots that can happen with regular oil primers that sometimes even the next day seem to have not cured all the way.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Coverstain shouldn't take 4hrs to dry.


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

We're doing one now. We used BIN and it worked great.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Bin shellac for the win. Dries in min, Sands nice sticks to all clear coats. Also stop and tandems from burning through any nay top coat sticks to it. Always used it for cleared trim and cabinets and always will continue to use it.


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## TKbrush (Dec 30, 2014)

I always carry a basic primer in my truck, all prime or store brand prime. So most of the times im priming a door or trim in one room twice. But after using smart prime last year on some ext work, that will be my go to, primer on an app like this.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I was spraying SW's generic oil primer over oil stain/poly cabinets (typically greasy) with no prep and achieving "good" adhesion. Nicking it with a pot or pan is likely to expose the previous coating. These were rental units and the client understood the trade off and chose the money.... go figure. The real question here is what is the best primer over oil poly with NO PREP. Just a scuff sand and tack will go a long way towards making your coat stick no matter what primer you use.


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## ttd (Sep 30, 2010)

BIN Shellac


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Gibberish45 said:


> I was spraying SW's generic oil primer over oil stain/poly cabinets (typically greasy) with no prep and achieving "good" adhesion. Nicking it with a pot or pan is likely to expose the previous coating. These were rental units and the client understood the trade off and chose the money.... go figure. The real question here is what is the best primer over oil poly with NO PREP. Just a scuff sand and tack will go a long way towards making your coat stick no matter what primer you use.


If you're trying to get away with minimal prep such as a quick scuff & tack, why not tack with a liquid sanding de-glosser? It will improve the adhesion level of your top-coat substantially. Instead of tacking with a dry rag or tack cloth, wet it down with LSD. Not costing you any more time and maybe $1.00 in materials.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> If you're trying to get away with minimal prep such as a quick scuff & tack, why not tack with a liquid sanding de-glosser? It will improve the adhesion level of your top-coat substantially. Instead of tacking with a dry rag or tack cloth, wet it down with LSD. Not costing you any more time and maybe $1.00 in materials.


I don't like that stuff. You either soak the substrate or it ends up blotchy and the results are never as good as a scuff and tack.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Try Bin synthetic shellac primer. It is low odor, bonds well and is water clean up.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Zoomer said:


> Try Bin synthetic shellac primer. It is low odor, bonds well and is water clean up.


Is this the BIN 2 soy based stuff? Never used it, but it would be a nice change from the chemical high you get from regular BIN.

Unless you like that kind of thing.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Zoomer said:


> Try Bin synthetic shellac primer. It is low odor, bonds well and is water clean up.


 Does it form a vapor barrier like regular Bin does?


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## A&S Painting (Oct 19, 2014)

BIN Shellac Based Primer.


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## Tundra02 (Oct 22, 2014)

I have used original Kilz and for the last 5 years or so have used the low odor Kilz . I give a cleaning and quick scuff with a fine grit sanding sponge and then tack cloth it .


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Sherwin Williams now has a synthetic shellac primer - water based. Still has an odor but not as bad as BIN. I've seen a demonstration of it's containing ability and it was pretty impressive. However, I'd still use BIN if I wanted to be absolutely, positively, without a doubt sure of containing any bleed through AND odor.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> If you're trying to get away with minimal prep such as a quick scuff & tack, why not tack with a liquid sanding de-glosser? It will improve the adhesion level of your top-coat substantially. Instead of tacking with a dry rag or tack cloth, wet it down with LSD. Not costing you any more time and maybe $1.00 in materials.


lysergic acid diethylamide?


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Bender said:


> lysergic acid diethylamide?


IT's what Timothy Leary would have used.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Bender said:


> lysergic acid diethylamide?



I knew it was only a matter of time before someone commented on that.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

UMA sticks to everything...light scuff ...prime away.


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