# Mahogany Bar Chairs



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I have a lead on possibly refinishing 90 Bar chairs at our arena. They are currently a clearcoated mahogany. It's going to be a matter of either replace the chairs or refinish.
So assuming I will have to be under $200/chair to get the job. 
This is a lead from my Benjamin Moore store, so will have to use thier products. Stripping them will be out of the equation to be feasible. 
I'm thinking they will probably just get painted black. What would you do?


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## eews (Apr 18, 2007)

in almost every case, I've found that they can buy new chairs from a restaurant supply house for much less than refinishing cost.
even years ago, when I quoted $75-100 to refurbish a chair, they could buy new ones for $45-50.
im guessing it's the same situation today.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

eews said:


> in almost every case, I've found that they can buy new chairs from a restaurant supply house for much less than refinishing cost.
> even years ago, when I quoted $75-100 to refurbish a chair, they could buy new ones for $45-50.
> im guessing it's the same situation today.


Was thinking the same thing..


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah, before putting any time into figuring out how to proceed, find out what their price per unit is that they want to stay under. Kind of a backwards way of doing it, and they may think you are simply trying to find out how much you can charge them, but if you are upfront with them about your motives they may be okay with it. Let’s face it, if the refinishing cost has to be under $50 for them not to simply replace, well...


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Black conversion varnish. Damn near bullet proof.


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

Gunna be cheaper for them to price out new chairs from a commercial vendor :/

BUT- If u end up doin the job (& as mentioned, cant strip the clear coat off) I assume scuff sanding is also outta the question since they prolly have details n such...so would say at minimum a wash with degreaser & use liquid sandpaper under coating...


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Wolfgang said:


> Black conversion varnish. Damn near bullet proof.



Only issue with conversion varnish is total mil thickness going over a previous finish.


I would shoot for something like GF black poly.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Only issue with conversion varnish is total mil thickness going over a previous finish.
> 
> 
> I would shoot for something like GF black poly.


Ya, after thinking about it, scuff sand and 2 coats of an oil poly would probably be the only way to keep costs down. Rust Scat? At first I was thinking water based, but would need to prime plus finish and probably clearcoat too.. Would the oil based poly need a primer?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

finishesbykevyn said:


> cocomonkeynuts said:
> 
> 
> > Only issue with conversion varnish is total mil thickness going over a previous finish.
> ...


https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fi...nd-pigmented-top-coats/enduro-pigmented-black

Can be applied over existing finish


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

@finishesbykevyn GF Enduro Black Poly is waterbased. I use in on cabinets regularly and it is tough. I agree with you prob need a clear coat. May not hold up to hot sweaty butts. Sprays good through hvlp though. I recoat in 12 hr but I am sure you can do it sooner.


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