# Which primer would you use?



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

I have to do a ton of woodwork: doors/frames, base, chair, crown, etc. It is presently dark, stained, and poly'ed. In the past I would always scuff it, clean it, and use an oil primer. I have decided that this year I won't touch oil ever if I don't have to. I am always scared that an acrylic product just won't adhere well, but I'm sure something out there will do it. What would you all use in a case like this? BM Fresh Start? Zinsser 123? What say you...


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Had the same thing almost on some beadboard strip paneling that had been stained and multi coats of poly. I didnt want to use an oil based primer due to animals in the house. Ended up going with Gripper after I scuffed the surfaces with a few green 3M pads. I let it dry for 48 hours and painted it. I did a scuff/scrape test on it in an area that wouldnt be noticed with touching up and it held up. Hope this gives you an alternative.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Fresh Start, 123, Gripper, XIM, all should work just fine. Thats what they're designed to do. Come on PWG, its the 21st century, get with the times


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

On new wood I use a waterbourne lacquer product. I think the one from sw is called door edge, not sure. The one I use is Aqua Lac from Vista Paints.


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## S.Indiana (Feb 8, 2010)

The only two I would ever use is xim or stix


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I think there are several waterborne bonding primers you could choose from. I like Wolfgangs idea of doing an adhesion test prior to full application.


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

Gripper is great for adhesion, but it doesnt sand at all.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

For interior trim I use a lot of PPG's Seal Grip. I use Gripper for exterior stuff.


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## StefanC (Apr 29, 2009)

I've been using Stix lately, seems to work a lot better then SWs bonding primer.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Stix :thumbup:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

StefanC said:


> I've been using Stix lately, seems to work a lot better then SWs bonding primer.


does it sand decent?


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

I've had really good results with XIMs waterbourne primer. The waterbourne lacquer is an new one on me. Never heard of it. I guess its Google time.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Ok, I've been hearing a lot about Gripper. Who makes it? Never seen it at the paint stores I go to.....


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Ok, I've been hearing a lot about Gripper. Who makes it? Never seen it at the paint stores I go to.....


...........................


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Currently working on a similar job, an entire house trim/doors paint over golden oak stain with satinish poly.
But I use ProBlock oil after scuff and wipe down with GlossOff from KrudKutter, topcoat SoloSatin acrylic enamel from SW.

oil is as oil does imho, get it while you still can.

Gonna cash in my BM ticket for stix soon, I hope it werks.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

You could shoot pigmented WB lacquer right over it without issue. 

Lacquer undercoater is king for trim....but stinks to high heaven....just like lacquer does. 

123 would work, same with aqua lock, but you'd need to make sure that trim is well sanded (100-120 grit max) for proper adhesion. 

A plastic primer might be something you could also look into...


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## Maritime (Mar 17, 2010)

*Hey First post! and first time using Stix today*

Hey, I used stix for the first time today - doing pretty much exactly what you want to use it for. Here is my two cents:
Bondability is fantastic. (prep it first though - although I know lazy guys that shoot it with no prep) sandability is very very very low. - Also this is by no means a stain killer - so watch for bleeding.

I would give it 8 out of 10. I also used glidden gripper - same sort of deal there.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> I have to do a ton of woodwork: doors/frames, base, chair, crown, etc. It is presently dark, stained, and poly'ed. In the past I would always scuff it, clean it, and use an oil primer. I have decided that this year I won't touch oil ever if I don't have to. I am always scared that an acrylic product just won't adhere well, but I'm sure something out there will do it. What would you all use in a case like this? BM Fresh Start? Zinsser 123? What say you...


 
Any of those will work fine. As you have seen Gripper will also work just fine and has the advantage of smelling like a new pair of sneakers

( If you like that smell):whistling2:

Sounds like a song


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

When ever I have used a wb primer in that situation, it seems like I have always had at least some minor bleeding that it could not contain and I wish I had used some kind of solvent primer. FWIW


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## Maritime (Mar 17, 2010)

Update on stix. It sands fine. Give it a good day to completely dry. 9 out of 10. Still see some bleeding though.


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## Outback Painting (Nov 21, 2009)

I recommend using Zinsser B.I.N or Sherwin Williams White Pigmented Shellac (pretty much the exact same thing), especially over poly. 

Sticks really well even without sanding and drys rocket fast! The only draw back is its really smelly because of the alcohol but the smell disappears really quick when its dry. Good for locking out odors too!


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## alpinecrick (May 11, 2007)

XIM also makes a Peel Bond in white--I suspect they are similar products.




TJ Paint said:


> ...........................


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

i'd like to know what you ended up with and how it worked. Personally, I wouldnt feel confident with any of those products but XIM and Gripper would likely give you the best chance but cure time / not dry time will always be key in getting that to work over gloss. Might even go as far as deglossing but thats a two man process making sure you apply primer over the deglossed areas before the deglosser dries. I have no fail-safe solution for ya for a waterbase product.

I might pick and choose oil primer in certain areas for a job like that.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> i'd like to know what you ended up with and how it worked. Personally, I wouldnt feel confident with any of those products but XIM and Gripper would likely give you the best chance but cure time / not dry time will always be key in getting that to work over gloss. Might even go as far as deglossing but thats a two man process making sure you apply primer over the deglossed areas before the deglosser dries. I have no fail-safe solution for ya for a waterbase product.:notworthy:
> 
> I might pick and choose oil primer in certain areas for a job like that.


 
Well, the suspense is just killing us!


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## Felan Painting (Jun 24, 2010)

ProWallGuy said:


> I have to do a ton of woodwork: doors/frames, base, chair, crown, etc. It is presently dark, stained, and poly'ed. In the past I would always scuff it, clean it, and use an oil primer. I have decided that this year I won't touch oil ever if I don't have to. I am always scared that an acrylic product just won't adhere well, but I'm sure something out there will do it. What would you all use in a case like this? BM Fresh Start? Zinsser 123? What say you...


Swerwin-Williams bonding primer it's awesome stuff. (latex) Adheres to anything even glass.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

If the wood is already finished and smooth, having a primer that sands just is more work. Sand first. I have used all mentioned but for prefinished I like 123 because it is almost like a first coat of enamel , with all the bonding. Helps bring sheen up right away.Thin just a taste and it lays out like a dream.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> If the wood is already finished and smooth, having a primer that sands just is more work. Sand first. I have used all mentioned but for prefinished I like 123 because it is almost like a first coat of enamel , with all the bonding. Helps bring sheen up right away.Thin just a taste and it lays out like a dream.


 
I agree:notworthy:


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

Outback Painting said:


> I recommend using Zinsser B.I.N or Sherwin Williams White Pigmented Shellac (pretty much the exact same thing), especially over poly.
> 
> Sticks really well even without sanding and drys rocket fast! The only draw back is its really smelly because of the alcohol but the smell disappears really quick when its dry. Good for locking out odors too!


Ditto that. BIN sticks to anything. It's foolproof priming. It is tougher to brush, though. A no-brainer if you're spraying.


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## NaeGan (Jun 16, 2010)

Agree on the B.I.N. It smells like hell, but it blocks everything and sprays great. That's why it's required when you repaint a home with smoke damage.


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## deluxe (Nov 30, 2008)

:thumbsup::thumbup:


S.Indiana said:


> The only two I would ever use is xim or stix


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