# Spackle flashing



## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

Has anyone found a better product than primer plus to use for patching holes when painting the same day. I've probably used most the fillers out there and the stuff you mix yourself. I still can't find anything I am happy with. They charge a lot for the primer plus. I wouldn't mind paying it if it worked like they say it would, but it still flashes even after I spot primed.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Unless your spackle or primer matches the porosity of the substrate it's going over than it's likely to flash. 

It's also possible that the paint, primer or both are causing issues.

You'll have to experiment to see what works best for you, but some of the best spackles I've used are: Timbermate, Elmers, Crackshot, Famowood 


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Dap Crackshot won't flash under most paints from what I've seen. 


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## Shake_that_bucket (Aug 22, 2016)

Are you talking about 3M's fast drying spackle and primer in one specifically? I just finished going through a tub of the stuff and I was pretty pleased with it. I also painted over with an egshel finish... We're you using a higher sheen? 

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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Crawfords


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

Shake_that_bucket said:


> Are you talking about 3M's fast drying spackle and primer in one specifically? I just finished going through a tub of the stuff and I was pretty pleased with it. I also painted over with an egshel finish... We're you using a higher sheen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


Yes that is what I'm talking about. I watch for it on sale and stock up on it. Its a good product. I'm surprised how far a little tube will go. I still see it flash. I use eggshell most of the time.

I was frustrated yesterday from fixing the home owners old patches and then she wants satin on the walls. I know with satin its kinda like a lost efforts to try and get it not to flash.


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

Thank you all that responded. I'm going to try all these products mentioned here.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

The quality of the finish paint has a lot to do with flashing. What paint were you using?


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

lilpaintchic said:


> Crawfords


The green can.


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

slinger58 said:


> The quality of the finish paint has a lot to do with flashing. What paint were you using?


THAT GOOD 'OL SUPPER PAINT FROM S.W..

THE OWNER WANTED S.W. AND IT HAD TO SAY SATIN ON THE CAN AND SHE DIDN'T WANT TO PAY MORE THAN $28 FOR A GALLON.

SO THAT'S WHAT I GOT. THE COVERAGE IS GOOD. THE WORKABILITY IS GOOD. BUT THE WALLS NEEDED A LITTLE WORK AND SHE WANTED SATIN. AND SHE DIDN'T WANT TO PAY FOR MORE THAN TWO COATS.

ITS A DUPLEX WITH ONE SIDE VACANT AND THE OTHER SIDE IS RENTED. SHE WANTED THE RENTED SIDE DONE FIRST AND THE RENTER WANTS ME DONE BY TUESDAY. WE ARE DOING CEILING, TRIM,WALLS AND CLOSETS.I HAD TO STAIN KILL THE DOORS. AND SHE GOT NEW CARPET LAST WEEK 
I STARTED YESTERDAY BY MYSELF. MY PART TIMERS COULDN'T WORK AND MY WIFE WAS SICK. JUST DID NOT HAVE A GOOD DAY. 

I KNOW, I HEAR THE VIOLINS PLAYING. I'LL GET OVER IT THOUGH. I GOT THIS.:thumbsup:


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I gave up on this. So I basically spot prime with primer, then spot with wall paint before I start cutting.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

007 Dave said:


> THAT GOOD 'OL SUPPER PAINT FROM S.W..
> 
> THE OWNER WANTED S.W. AND IT HAD TO SAY SATIN ON THE CAN AND SHE DIDN'T WANT TO PAY MORE THAN $28 FOR A GALLON.
> 
> ...


Lol. Two thumbs up to ya, Dave. It happens to all of us at times and we just have to slug our way through it. 

To the topic at hand about what to patch with, I've come to believe it really is more a function of the finish paint used rather than what's used to patch and/or prime with. My favorite wall paint for several years now has been BM's Regal Select. I know from personal experience that you can patch with 20 minute mud and skip the primer and roll two coats of RS with no flashing on the patch spots.

Which leads into one of Pacman's favorite topics; How much do you save using cheaper, lower line products? And the answer is you actually lose money because of the increased time/labor costs. Or if you're doing the job T&M, it just costs the client more money. Either way it's false economy. 

In your case, the client wanted to see SW, Satin and no more than $28.00/gal. And in this business where material costs are 10-20% of the total cost of the job, the client needed to be educated on how things really work.
And I'm not trying to second guess you, Dave. Some folks can't be educated, I've had plenty of them. I salute you for slogging through with inferior material. :thumbsup:


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

slinger58 said:


> [/COLOR]
> 
> Lol. Two thumbs up to ya, Dave. It happens to all of us at times and we just have to slug our way through it.
> 
> ...


Thank you Slinger for the encouragement. I am feeling better today. and I think this coming week might be better.:yes:


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Use PVA to spot prime, the cheap stuff. I get a 5er of Glidden from home cheapo for like $55 bucks. 

I've played with different primers for spot priming over the years and the pva is what I've found to be the best, especially when going from a cheap builder flat to satin.

You might ask, how on earth could garbage pva be better than something like 123? The answer is it's not which is exactly why it works. When going from cheap flat to satin the better primers seal the flat too well which causes the new satin to lay on top of the primer but soak right into the flat which causes it to flash. The pva doesn't seal all that well at all so the paint dries the same. However, it does seal just enough for the spackle spots to stay hidden. Works the same way across all sheen levels too. 

Anyway that's whats been working for me over the last couple years. Wish I figured it out sooner, it would have saved me a lot of headaches. :yes:


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Use PVA to spot prime, the cheap stuff. I get a 5er of Glidden from home cheapo for like $55 bucks.
> 
> I've played with different primers for spot priming over the years and the pva is what I've found to be the best, especially when going from a cheap builder flat to satin.
> 
> ...


What are you top coating with?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> What are you top coating with?


I do it with everything superpaint, Cashmere, and sometimes regal select is what I mostly use tho.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I do it with everything superpaint, Cashmere, and sometimes regal select is what I mostly use tho.


Ryan, if you're going to be a mod, you're going to have to punctuate and spell better than that. I know you're a transplanted Southerner and probably say "ain't" and "cain't" with the best of us, but we're worldwide here. Help me out!


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> Ryan, if you're going to be a mod, you're going to have to punctuate and spell better than that. I know you're a transplanted Southerner and probably say "ain't" and "cain't" with the best of us, but we're worldwide here. Help me out!


Aww come on "and sometimes Regal select is what I use mostly tho" makes a ton of sense! 

To clarify.. superpaint, Cashmere, and occasionally Regal is what I use.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Aww come on "and sometimes Regal select is what I use mostly tho" makes a ton of sense!
> 
> To clarify.. superpaint, Cashmere, and occasionally Regal is what I use.


Oh I understand it perfectly. But LPC, Dave and CA are probably thinking "Whut in hell are them ole boys talking about?" Lol


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Gosh dang pva luvers...I ain't got no dang pva.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

lilpaintchic said:


> Gosh dang pva luvers...I ain't got no dang pva.


Good try, LPC. But ya gotta drag the vowels and drop some consonants. And whenever possible, add some syllables. 

"Hell yes" becomes "Hay-ull yay-us".


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Use PVA to spot prime, the cheap stuff. I get a 5er of Glidden from home cheapo for like $55 bucks.
> 
> I've played with different primers for spot priming over the years and the pva is what I've found to be the best, especially when going from a cheap builder flat to satin.
> 
> ...


Thank you. I'll have to give the ol' PVA a shot.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

I'll have to work on my southern draaaawl.yo. (had to throw the west coast thang in there cuz I can.)


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

slinger58 said:


> Oh I understand it perfectly. But LPC, Dave and CA are probably thinking "Whut in hell are them ole boys talking about?" Lol


I was too busy trying to keep my balance, reading that Briggs uses PVA sealer, to even notice.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Flashing has been an issue since they came out with the new acrylic finishes about 10-15 years ago. When I first started out,you could just spot prime with the finish paint and there would be no issues with flashing.

The other day I had a one coat job that turned into a flashing nightmare. I was using BM Ultra Spec 500 for the finish and spot priming the drywall compound with a cheap Coronado Super Coat primer. (that only costs $15/gallon). After applying the Ultra Spec 500, all the rolled spot primes flashed because it sealed better than the surrounding drywall. It was shinier,in other words. My one coat job then turned into a two coat job. I'm not going to use a primer any more to spot prime because of this issue unless I'm doing two coats.

I've decided that I'm going to use the '3M Patch plus Primer' as my drywall filler from now on. You don't even have to spot prime,which is fantastic. A small tub of it is pricey but so is the labor to spot prime. You also save on paint.

Obviously sometimes you still have to use mud for the big patch jobs,and use a primer to seal it, but that wall will need two finish coats.

I think this is what happens when the new construction painters don't seal the drywall with a proper primer in the first place. I could be wrong.

I've even had mud flashing after two coats using Dulux Lifemaster Eggshell and BM Ben Eggshell paints. Maybe I applied it too soon,3-4 hours after the first coat. It always works out better if you do the 2nd coat the next day,but sometimes you gotta get the job done. I now spot prime with the finish paint twice when I have to do two quick coats. That seems to fix it. This is another reason why I'm going to use the 3M Patch plus primer. It's great,if you find something to fill 30 minutes before the final coat...Just apply the P&P,sand, and paint with no spot prime! It's really remarkable stuff.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

Crackshot. Lightly hit with finish before rolling. 


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