# Drying Rack for Trim



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi everyone,
There is a good chance that I will be doing a NC in the mid-spring to early summer. My plan is to paint the first coat of trim before it is installed and once installed fill all of the nail holes and paint the final coat.


Since NC is something that I right now do not plan to do a lot of (this job is for my wife's cousin) in the near future. I was hoping that someone could suggest a cheap drying rack for all of the trim. The best would be a home made one--pictures would be very helpful. This way I could build it cheaply, and then break it down after the job was done and not have to worry about finding a place to store it afterward.

Thanks


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## Paint Chip (Dec 25, 2013)

I just picked up the erecta rack pro series ten for the same purpose as you. I spent $260 on thru my rep at sherwin williams. It was cheaper thru him then on the erecta rack website. I used it today for the first time and it was great. I will be able to use this for a bunch of different applications. Doors, shutters etc. If you are going for a homemade one, you check out the design and go from there


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

There was a fairly recent thread about this where some of us posted pics but I can't remember the name of it. You might get lucky on a search but we all know how that usually goes. 

The cheapest, easiest rick I know how to build is a block rick. Cinder blocks and 2 by 2's or 2 by 4's is all you need. The concept is simple. The two by material is supported on each end by the cinder blocks. Stack the blocks to go up. 














You can fit a lot of material in a fairly small space. This is about 1500 ft in an area about 14 by 20 including room to walk around it. 









I built this rick totally with materials laying around the construction site. 

Some other guys posted pics of slant ricks with nails that would work well for smaller amounts of trim.


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## cardwizzard (Sep 13, 2010)

Get the schmidt tree  

Sent from my D5503 using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## Paint Chip (Dec 25, 2013)

That's a great idea! Cynder blocks?! Nice


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Pete the Painter said:


> Hi everyone, There is a good chance that I will be doing a NC in the mid-spring to early summer. My plan is to paint the first coat of trim before it is installed and once installed fill all of the nail holes and paint the final coat. Since NC is something that I right now do not plan to do a lot of (this job is for my wife's cousin) in the near future. I was hoping that someone could suggest a cheap drying rack for all of the trim. The best would be a home made one--pictures would be very helpful. This way I could build it cheaply, and then break it down after the job was done and not have to worry about finding a place to store it afterward. Thanks


Rummage around in the dumpster. Lean the stuff on the wall. Lat it on itself on the ground. Whayever is handy that day.


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

:thumbup:


Jmayspaint said:


> There was a fairly recent thread about this where some of us posted pics but I can't remember the name of it. You might get lucky on a search but we all know how that usually goes.
> 
> The cheapest, easiest rick I know how to build is a block rick. Cinder blocks and 2 by 2's or 2 by 4's is all you need. The concept is simple. The two by material is supported on each end by the cinder blocks. Stack the blocks to go up.
> View attachment 39193
> ...


I think jmayspaint nailed it for onsite work. :thumbsup:


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

We rarely put a first coat on before install (only quarter rounds ). 

We prime, finish ceilings, let the carpenters install the trim, prep and finish


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

journeymanPainter said:


> We rarely put a first coat on before install (only quarter rounds ).
> 
> We prime, finish ceilings, let the carpenters install the trim, prep and finish


Is there a reason for not putting the first coat of finish coat on before the carpenters install? The last time I did NC was about 20 ago, and this was how I did it.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Pete the Painter said:


> Is there a reason for not putting the first coat of finish coat on before the carpenters install? The last time I did NC was about 20 ago, and this was how I did it.


Depending on how long you let the trim sit for before handling it can cause major headaches, from paint peeling, to major flashing from where you patched.


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## mattpaints82 (Mar 7, 2013)

http://www.painttalk.com/attachment...cks-base-shoe-molding-rsz_20140724_135916.jpg 

with that set up we spray and leave it alone til it dries, if we are staining tongue and groove ceiling boards i like jmays set up. :thumbsup:


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

mattpaints82 said:


> http://www.painttalk.com/attachment...cks-base-shoe-molding-rsz_20140724_135916.jpg
> 
> with that set up we spray and leave it alone til it dries, if we are staining tongue and groove ceiling boards i like jmays set up. :thumbsup:


That's the one I was thinking of. Looks like a good way to do 1/4 round.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Do you have a sprayer Pete? If so, I think you would be better served priming, then doing ceilings. Let them install the trim package then caulk, fill and spray it all. 

Then just brush and roll the walls.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Also, the Erecta Rack is awesome. 

I just wish they had 60" pro bars.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

Pete,
I would only say baseboards or quarter rounds would be worth the trouble maybe crown 

And only to have paint right down to the bottom without having to cut it really nicely the second time 

There's going to be nails screws in the jam it's all going to need patching and sand one coat will have a hard time covering that 

Not to mention how banged up it will get between you prefer finishing them to installation and final coat


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> Do you have a sprayer Pete? If so, I think you would be better served priming, then doing ceilings. Let them install the trim package then caulk, fill and spray it all.
> 
> Then just brush and roll the walls.



I don't have a sprayer. And they will already be primed. I told the HO of the pitfalls of not priming already primed wood--that he will eventually have tannins showing, but he wants to get it done as quickly as possible, and then deal the the tannins the next time that it is painting. Maybe more work for me in the future.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Ok, so I am maybe reevaluating my plan and will not paint the first coat before it is installed. My next question will be doors. How does this usually work on NC. Do you guys usually get the two coats on before they are installed by the contractor? They will be smooth masonite doors. I would like to avoid having to taking these doors down after they are installed, painting and then reinstalling.


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## mattpaints82 (Mar 7, 2013)

In the NC we do, the carpenters set the doors when they trim the house out, right after we prime. We pull the doors after and spray them all in one room. Not bad to remove/replace with two people, but a royal PITA solo. :yes:


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## Leeboy20 (Jul 28, 2014)

Painting first coat before it's installed is way easier. With the paints now a days, the drag/quick dry time , when brushing bare primed wood is no fun . I would pre paint first with a wiz roller or something , then final coat with a brush. This way , with base board you can cheat and stay 16th / 8th of an inch off the floor. As well as edges may not need a final coat ( depending on color)


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

mattpaints82 said:


> In the NC we do, the carpenters set the doors when they trim the house out, right after we prime. We pull the doors after and spray them all in one room. Not bad to remove/replace with two people, but a royal PITA solo. :yes:


I did a job last winter in which I removed a lot of masonite doors. They weigh a ton. It was not real easy,but I found that putting cedar shingles under the door and then sliding in one of the pins was not too difficult to do with one person.


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## CustomDesignCoatings (Jun 2, 2011)

Pete the Painter said:


> I did a job last winter in which I removed a lot of masonite doors. They weigh a ton. It was not real easy,but I found that putting cedar shingles under the door and then sliding in one of the pins was not too difficult to do with one person.


You could ask the GC if he would be willing to have his crew pull the doors after they swing them and reinstall after you paint them for a deduction on the door finishing price. Or you could help along with 1 member of GC staff. 

I am luckily to have a small crew but when I started and was solo on projects, I made it a point to be up front with GC's about items I may need help with. The good GC's to work with are more concerned with turning out a good project at a fair price with fair profit margins then they are about squeezing every cent out of subs. 

Respectfully,
Brian


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

I like to have all the trim installed and doors hung and move all the doors to one location to be painted, no hinges to mask or avoid and if kept in a safe location they well be kept safe until the end of the job. 
I like to prime the trim and doorjambs then spackle the nail holes then sand, dust, and then caulk depending on the material then with the trim done you can run a tape line around all the trim then continue on to the walls, this does away with having to put effort to cut in or be careful with rolling and when you pull the tape you should have a clean line. 

I know a lot of painters like to do the trim loose but to me it when it is all installed when you are done with it you are done and you get a more solid look.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Just my 2 cents here of course. If your doing a lot of NC buy a sprayer. Even a small titan 440 for 700 bucks will save u 100s of hours with a brush and roller. I just finished a large 27 home custom survey last year. This is how i do it every time. 

All trim is already installed as well as doors.

1: Remove all doors and paper/mask all windows. 
2 Prime all ceilings and trim every where. 
3 Spray primer 1 more time on all ceilings (semi bathroom if you wish) 

at this point all trim/doors are primed and ceilings are done. Thats all in day 1. 

4 Sand caulk and fill holes. I use spastic putty so i dont have to sand. takes a full day

5 spray finish on all doors and trim not even a day so go home early.

6 Tape all trim (baseboards Windows door ways) cut and roll walls with a good paint. Preferably something that seals the wall. This allows you to 2 coat every wall and be done. Any large walls or direct sun walls i will 3 coat if required to make them look perfect of course. 

in total we did a 2000-2600 SQ foot house in around depending on guys i had and any extras (fireplace garage so on so forth) took me from 5-10 days per house.

on a 2400 SQ foot house with roughly say 15-20 doors 5-8 windows i can spray finish on everything in under 6 hours done. that's buy my self. No way you will ever brush and roll that fast. Let alone have it look as good as spray. keep in mind the number of doors and windows is roughly off the top of my head.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Spastic Putty?


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...atching-repair/glazing-compound/&N=2037488928

sorry real name is Glazing compound. The name Spastic Putty was just a name from back in the 70s when my dad used it. Same thing i call it now actually

More of a thick play-doe style. No need to let it dry as it does not go hard. So no more cracking of drydex over holes and refilling them over and over. Press it in with your finger and slide your finder over hole couple times to remove any extra. Fills perfect every time once you know what your doing.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Ahh, I do the same with Crawfords Putty. I think it will dry eventually under the latex paint, but I've never had any call backs for using it on residential.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> There was a fairly recent thread about this where some of us posted pics but I can't remember the name of it. You might get lucky on a search but we all know how that usually goes.


Found it! (without using the search function tho)

http://www.painttalk.com/f12/iso-rack-stand-idea-painting-base-board-29523/


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Rack we used today for primed exterior trim


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