# painting over varnish and sticky doors



## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

I've got some doors to paint going to the clubhouse kitchen to paint over. There is sticky residue on the ones off the bar. The sticky stuff won't come off with degreaser..probably years of pepsi or soda residue. My plan is to sand where I can and cover with Bullseye Shelac. Then wait and put a urethane enamel over it. Any suggestions?? In the old days I put bullseye over bleeding clapboards and knots so it should seal this, I hope. thanks, painterdude


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

Bullseye shelac is the only thing I can think of as well. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

*Ayup*

Shellac it


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Scotchbrite and acetone prep. I'd be looking to get as clean as possible, as much as the budget will allow.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I'd be looking to get as clean as possible, as much as the budget will allow.

Me too.:yes:


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

truth be told, these doors are beat. They should be replaced. There are lots of nicks and gouges and are hollow core. They could be replaced for 200 bucks, but they don't want to spend. I'll throw on the Bin and give it 2 finish coats. The proshop came out terrific and the clubhouse interior though a blah color(latte) is fine. The outside has grey aluminum siding on the upper areas which would go fine with shades of green or taupe, but the woman in charge is having me do it white, which it is now. It's all about going on the cheap if possible. I use only top line products but they are in a small town where every dollar seems to count. If the doors hold up more than a few years I'll be surprised, but I gave them a few senarios and they took the easy way out. Thanks for the answer. pd


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## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

painterdude said:


> truth be told, these doors are beat. They should be replaced. There are lots of nicks and gouges and are hollow core. They could be replaced for 200 bucks, but they don't want to spend. I'll throw on the Bin and give it 2 finish coats. The proshop came out terrific and the clubhouse interior though a blah color(latte) is fine. The outside has grey aluminum siding on the upper areas which would go fine with shades of green or taupe, but the woman in charge is having me do it white, which it is now. It's all about going on the cheap if possible. I use only top line products but they are in a small town where every dollar seems to count. If the doors hold up more than a few years I'll be surprised, but I gave them a few senarios and they took the easy way out. Thanks for the answer. pd


Dude-you did right in my book. You explained what you had to--your customers opted for the cheap way out--you told them, they know it-have em sign off on it. Give the customer what they want once they are informed it may not be the optimal option at hand.

JTP


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Don't underestimate hot water in a situation like that. I've run into bathroom doors that were covered in hair spray. Oil based cleaners wont touch the stuff (because its alcohol based) but even a damp rag cleans them right up.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

update...put the Bin on which dried to a nice cover. No cracking, no sags etc. It's been a long time since I used that stuff, nice buzz. Went back the next day and applied coat of latex semi gloss. I'll now wait a few days for curing and I'm going to put a coat of acrylic varnish on it so they can clean it whenever it needs it. Polycrylic...I've use this many times and it's a fine product. pd


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