# Mimic this texture?



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

We are doing a bathroom remodel in a 1905 house. Some doors will be closed up and I'd like to duplicate this texture if I can. It looks too big to be sand in plaster (but could be maybe), too random to be a trowel trick. 

Any thoughts?































....and for the heck of it, here's the project before and current.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

good question

2 (or more) different sizes of silica sand?


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks Steve...I think it has to be something like that. Looking for someone who has some hands on experience in duplicating it. I would assume its a form of level 5 with some sand.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I've only done patches of sand-texture..never a whole room.
(it's messy)


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> I've only done patches of sand-texture..never a whole room.
> (it's messy)


Its not the whole room. 

Its just for the door you see in the back ground. We are covering it up and moving it to another area. The patch is on the other side as the hall is tied to stairs and onto main floor.


----------



## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Definately sand over smooth plaster. Did an old school this last year,built 1911, that had the same texture. Have seen sand mixed with mud and troweled on but took some work to get the pattern right. Drywallers at the school I did blew on a light spatter that was marginal at best. If you had a compressor big enough with the right hopper orifice you might be able to mix sand in mud for one coat then a courser grit for a second coat. That might be too much build up but something you would have to play with.


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

kmp said:


> Definately sand over smooth plaster. Did an old school this last year,built 1911, that had the same texture. Have seen sand mixed with mud and troweled on but took some work to get the pattern right. Drywallers at the school I did blew on a light spatter that was marginal at best. If you had a compressor big enough with the right hopper orifice you might be able to mix sand in mud for one coat then a courser grit for a second coat. That might be too much build up but something you would have to play with.



I was thinking mud/sand on roller.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I was thinking mud/sand on roller.


 Sounds good to me.
too rough, knock some off. Too smooth , add some more sand to the prime coat.

Feather it out...(you already knew that)

Maybe practice on something first (you already knew that too)


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I was thinking mud/sand on roller.


In our experience, that ends up being really "blocky" and especially noticeable in patched areas. We've had better luck using an old wall brush to apply primer to which we've added some sand. One problem with adding sand is that the new sand is "crisp" compared to the existing texture. We've solved that by going over the fresh sand-painted surface with one or more heavy coats, either with thinned mud or block filler. Sometime, we've also added some texture from a spray can. One of the biggest problems trying to match that old sanded plaster finish is that there are a lot of different sized bumps/lumps. We've found it best to sneak up on the texture gradually, checking it after each step with raking side light.

The simpler version is to find an old plasterer....

Ironically, I'm staring at this same texture on the walls and ceiling in our office. It was built in 1946 and has 16 x 48 panels of gypsum lath instead of wood lath, but there is that same finish.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Gough said:


> In our experience, that ends up being really "blocky" and especially noticeable in patched areas. .


even if you thinned the mud way down?

Are there any old plasterers left?


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> even if you thinned the mud way down?
> 
> Are there any old plasterers left?


What we kept seeing is the abrupt end of each pass of the roller. Trying to feather it out just seemed to make it worse. We just found it easier to modulate the texture using a brush. YMMV

Precious few, especially here in Wild West. The last one I knew around here probably died ten years ago. A stucco guy (the real thing, not EIFS) might be able to help.


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Paul, I don't really see that stuff around here. I would post it at DWT as well. 

It looks like the sand stuff.


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

sand with a ton of layers of paint.replication is gonna be rough. I would sand down the walls or skim and texture as you see fit. looks like no fun


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I don't have any useful tips on replicating that texture.

If it was me I would try to upsell them on retexturing all the walls and "update" them. 

If they didn't want to, I wouldn't bother much with matching. The amount of time spent on that, you could blow a light texture over all of the walls.


----------



## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

We have a couple of external products here called acra sand (Dulux) and armawall ultra fine which is (ppg) these are both exterior membranes but would give you a very similar finish. You would need to put a couple of top coats of normal acrylic/latex over the top to get desired result. 

Call your rep and find an external product to do the job. IMHO.


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Hi Paul, 

Sand and mud! You will have to roll or brush a slurry on. If you trowel it on you will get worm lines.

Mix some sand in some thinned drywall compound and roll it on to a sample of drywall. Slowly add sand until you get a similar texture. If you need to you can sprinkle on some extra sand to the surface to get the right consistency. Then use a 3/4" roller and prime and paint it heavy with some old lead paint!


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

I had luck in the past using pre mixed textured flexall. I had to roll this stuff from corner to corner to get it to look consistent. 

Pat


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Looks like the old perlite texture to me.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

It almost looks like the walls had popcorn and then hap hazardly scrapped off.. or that 30 coats of different paint.. some where the paint was nearly dry and a roller went back through it leaving a nasty textured surface.. compounded over the years... and 3/4" of paint later.. H/O'ers having nasties in their paint or didn't sand the walls..

I don't think it is an actual texture.. just years and years and years of DIY paint jobs.

That is only my opinion of course  Let us know what you find out.. and 3/8" drywall MAY be your friend in this case.

-Nathan


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

another thought. Maybe you could get a sift and pour popcorn texture through it.. get out all the LARGE chunks.. or hell.. get the aggregate type of "popcorn" texture and put it in a bucket (dry) take a drill and paint mixing attachment and whip it into the size you need.. and spray it on a wall like you were texturing it.. and come back with a couple thick coats of primer/paint.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Pull up perlite texture on the web and click on images for perlite texture and see if thats not close.:thumbsup:


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Sep 8, 2009)

Since the wall is so small. I'd skim it corner to corner. Then Use a hopper with thinned down (pancake batter consistency) AP joint compound and some sand. And spray away. :thumbsup:


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Since the wall is so small. I'd skim it corner to corner. Then Use a hopper with thinned down (pancake batter consistency) AP joint compound and some sand. And spray away. :thumbsup:


that would do it...


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

If they are really concerned I would try out some test panels.. just get some cardboard and try it out.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Since the wall is so small. I'd skim it corner to corner. Then Use a hopper with thinned down (pancake batter consistency) AP joint compound and some sand. And spray away. :thumbsup:


I said basically the same thing like 5 hrs prior to this post, but you guys didn't thank me.

Screw this forum...


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

If Paul only comes back to change the op to ....... he is out of here.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> I said basically the same thing like 5 hrs prior to this post, but you guys didn't thank me.
> 
> Screw this forum...


 Your the one being mimicked!


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Sep 8, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> I don't have any useful tips on replicating that texture.
> 
> If it was me I would try to upsell them on retexturing all the walls and "update" them.
> 
> If they didn't want to, I wouldn't bother much with matching. The amount of time spent on that, you could blow a light texture over all of the walls.





Sir Mixalot said:


> Since the wall is so small. I'd skim it corner to corner. Then Use a hopper with thinned down (pancake batter consistency) AP joint compound and some sand. And spray away. :thumbsup:





TJ Paint said:


> I said basically the same thing like 5 hrs prior to this post, but you guys didn't thank me.
> 
> 
> Screw this forum...


Close. But no cigar TJ. :whistling2:


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> I said basically the same thing like 5 hrs prior to this post, but you guys didn't thank me.
> 
> Screw this forum...


Finally we broke you. I enjoy the small victories.


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks for the comments.

Yes, I think getting it close then doing a full re-texture is a good option. 

You can never fully say that money isn't an option, but these people are more interested in design and atheistics than a few extra bucks.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Don't forget to let us know how it turns out.


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> Don't forget to let us know how it turns out.


Will do...I suspect we'll be there by end of January.


----------



## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

There are 3 different sizes of popcorn it looks like maybe mix some small and just a little of the large?


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

I come across this texture quite a bit . 

I like the idea of spraying it . I have tried pre mixed stuff from the box stores added pop corn texture. Used paint as the main vehicle and also 
Diluted mud with sand . I find paint with additives works the best . Sand , acoustic mix . I do lots of samples . I hate myself if they don't look right .
I also use the can stuff or flick .


----------



## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Ok, here is my take... Make the wall smooth where you have to patch. Then spray a couple thin coats of water based orange peel spray texture (homax) set on fine to make the underlying small texture. Or use small sand, have paint store box in with paint or stir in evenly with drill & mixing attachment. Roll thin even coat. Then for bigger texture, for sure use the spray texture set on heavy.

Shake the texture 10 plus min & soak in hot water 5-10 min. For even texture that doesn't divot.

This is what I'd try based on my experience & the looks of that pic.


----------



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I have battled that texture for years.
It was stock and trade in the old days- was a sand mix with a now extinct base that sand of a particular size ( all the ones mentioned here are too small, and perlite is just wrong- I have used screens and sized sand..)
And was troweled on with a special sponge trowel that floated them like an aggregate. Problem with almost all muds now is they roll instead of half bury like the look needs. 
It is a tough one. I haven't really figured it out yet.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

BrushJockey said:


> I have battled that texture for years.
> It was stock and trade in the old days- was a sand mix with a now extinct base that sand of a particular size ( all the ones mentioned here are too small, and perlite is just wrong- I have used screens and sized sand..)
> And was troweled on with a special sponge trowel that floated them like an aggregate. Problem with almost all muds now is they roll instead of half bury like the look needs.
> It is a tough one. I haven't really figured it out yet.


We've worked to match it a number of times. One was a brick home where they'd had insulation blown in...from the inside. Lots of 3-inch holes every 16" along all of the outside walls. We used StructoLite (basecoat plaster containing perlite) and a sponge float for the first coat; then regular plaster with sand for the next coat, again with the sponge float; primed with block filler to "bury" the texture and mimic the effect of years of wall paint; and finally painted.


----------



## Shelby (Feb 23, 2009)

i would try to locate some larger silica sand or experiment with adding ceiling acoustic in smaller amounts to begin with, and sampling on scrap sheets of dry wall before trying it on the wall receiving the patch. and something like multiple coats over the first textured coat. you might find it more appealing to take the texture coat from corner to corner, if necessary. that would involve de-burring the wall completely and/ floating/coating before applying the first/texture coat. i dont like the idea of spraying it on, it looks like the flat, larger portions of the wall are smooth and i don't believe the sprayed on texture will lay flat/smooth enough. but maybe it am not able to really discern from the photos, just throwing out considerations.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I was in a home the other day that was over 100yrs old.. small town that has been there for ever. I actually got to see the wall texture in person. I have no idea how you would replicate that. It would take some serious playing around and possibly multiple layers.. I wish I knew what they used back then.

Anyone know of an online source for historic finishes?


----------



## SouthFloridaPainter (Jan 27, 2011)

One more thing you can experiment with.

Get a bag of the popcorn ceiling texture already mentioned.

Sift the powder out. (you can use window screening )

And add the popcorn the your thinned out mud till you get the right consistency. 

Just a thought.

good luck with it.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

/\ I had a similar thought.. using the aggregate type and not the poly.


----------



## SouthFloridaPainter (Jan 27, 2011)

One more thing.

This isn't available in my region, but I remember this stuff when I was in Texas.


http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...-1&keyword=texture&storeId=10051#.UN_HKe8uvAk


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Since the wall is so small. I'd skim it corner to corner. Then Use a hopper with thinned down (pancake batter consistency) AP joint compound and some sand. And spray away. :thumbsup:


I really think this could work trying this approach.
I have a job coming up foundation was just repaired . Drywall train wreck . A large part of my business is drywall repair . Really not looking forward to this job . But it's work for January . 
I hate this texture , I have used the roll text stuff , medium with acoustic mixed with flat paint with some good results , used this mix with spray can texture too the best . I just hard replicating . The many layers of paint look. I also heard painters used to add corn meal to their paint any body of heard of that?


----------



## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

SouthFloridaPainter said:


> One more thing.
> 
> This isn't available in my region, but I remember this stuff when I was in Texas.
> 
> ...


I remember seeing that stuff down in Texas too



TERRY365PAINTER said:


> I really think this could work trying this approach.
> I have a job coming up foundation was just repaired . Drywall train wreck . A large part of my business is drywall repair . Really not looking forward to this job . But it's work for January .
> I hate this texture , I have used the roll text stuff , medium with acoustic mixed with flat paint with some good results , used this mix with spray can texture too the best . I just hard replicating . The many layers of paint look. I also heard painters used to add corn meal to their paint any body of heard of that?


 I didnt think about using acoustic. Good idea. I like that one :thumbsup: Probably the best option considering it looks like quite a few coats of paint on the existing areas.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> I really think this could work trying this approach.
> I have a job coming up foundation was just repaired . Drywall train wreck . A large part of my business is drywall repair . Really not looking forward to this job . But it's work for January .
> I hate this texture , I have used the roll text stuff , medium with acoustic mixed with flat paint with some good results , used this mix with spray can texture too the best . I just hard replicating . The many layers of paint look. I also heard painters used to add corn meal to their paint any body of heard of that?


 I used corn meal on a few jobs over the course of the years.With light textured walls this stuff blends in great.If you have to do this on a ceiling I would use the up rising corn meal type.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

SouthFloridaPainter said:


> One more thing.
> 
> This isn't available in my region, but I remember this stuff when I was in Texas.
> 
> ...


 I have used this on numerous occassions as well.Some brands have it in a fine,medium,and coarse.You really have to play with this stuff on some scrap 1st to get the look you want.If not careful it can get to become to proud of a patch.To pronounced is another way to look at it.


----------



## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

I have been lurking this thread for better than 2 weeks and can understand it should have started in the surface preparation and application portion
of the forum.

But in my best professional advice it should end 
up in the Special Coatings part of PT.

With all my worldly experience being born and raised in So Cal and walking on the Plastering side of our trade more than the drywall side...
It's IMHO that a product from LaHabra finishes
could solve your situation.


----------

