# peel block - no experience



## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

i've never used peel bond, but have a project that seems right for it.
Peeling front side of a house, full sun, harsh winters (ohio.)

stripped, scraped, sanded, power washed. mostly bare wood, some nail repair spots, trim is a hot mess, but they didn't want trim done other than a sand and cover.

i've read on here for a couple years about you that swear by the miracle of peel bond. 
So, after the washing is dry (rain the last couple days started the night of the washing) i can prime with peel bond. Then, would i prime with my trusty oil or coverstain OVER the peel bond? or oil prime first, then peel bond?

or, are you all saying that peel bond replaces an oil primer?

its old, dry wood (after it dries from the rain), bare, but in pretty decent condition. Thank you, smart-alecks here, i know i'll get a few posts about being a tard not knowing what i'm doing... so yes, i'll admit right up front i've no experience with peel-bond other than what i've read. which is always a bit unclear.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

peel bond?


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

yes, brain fart. i blame football anticipation


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

No photos? A few more details would be nice, like what type of wood?


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

cedar clapboard...


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Forget the Peel Bond. Since youve got that much of the previous finish off, I would prime that with a slow dry oil primer followed by two coats of quality acrylic latex paint.


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## Sustainable in OR. (Dec 30, 2010)

*Peel Bond*

We use allot of Peel Bond & XIMs Trim Magic. 

Try the Trim Magic product on some bad looking interior or exterior sills. Just don't over prepare the areas and let the Trim Magic do the filling and build the base for your top coat. Thicker than peel bond but fills & builds very nicely! 

Best use is for truly peeling, alligatoring, paint where the prep might benefit from this building filling type of product. Wont restick any of the old loose paint but has saved me a ton of time during prep work. 

Just completed a large T-111 project with Peel Bond 2 coats, then top coated. Spray it on with a 517 tip, one direction back roll with 3/4 nap roller, repeat after 1st coat is dry, top coat as normal after peel bond clear & dry.

Works very well for enclosed soffit areas where peeling paint appears. light scrape to get rid of loose paint, light sanding, peel bond, back roll one direction with 1/2' nap roller, dry time, top coat.


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## dosgris (Jan 6, 2008)

Woodland said:


> Forget the Peel Bond. Since youve got that much of the previous finish off, I would prime that with a slow dry oil primer followed by two coats of quality acrylic latex paint.


I'm with Woodland!


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Agree. That is a beauty of a prep job, and it doesn't need the build of peel Bond, but the penetration of a slow oil- BM oil Fresh Start for example.


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

thanks! it took forever, i swear it was like 100 peeling chipping cracking layers thick... just still couldn't get it new-like.

OK, so i'm going with the sw exterior wood oil primer, the pink cans. the 'new' a100 stuff... so, same as it ever was. 

i'm confused then... so the peel bond is used when? if i didn't do any scraping, i could have just used peelbond over that mess? seems so unnatural to even think of doing that


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

mpkmpk said:


> thanks! it took forever, i swear it was like 100 peeling chipping cracking layers thick... just still couldn't get it new-like.
> 
> OK, so i'm going with the sw exterior wood oil primer, the pink cans. the 'new' a100 stuff... so, same as it ever was.
> 
> i'm confused then... so the peel bond is used when? if i didn't do any scraping, i could have just used peelbond over that mess? seems so unnatural to even think of doing that


What you did is going to last longer. 
XIM "Peel Bond" is a heavilly bodied primer/sealer that goes on thick and dries clear. I use a lot. Just depends on what Im doing. Its good for leveling out an ugly surafce. Its not a miracle "fix all" product. Often its just a bandaid. Its great for older T-111 siding to fill in and leave a smoother finish. A-100 primer is a good product. It dries slow and penetrates deep into the wood. Make sure the wood is dry before priming. 12-14 percent moisure content or less, then go for. Work it in good. A brush work best. If your spraying, then back brush. Personally I like to thin it 10-20 percent with mineral spirits for even better penetration into the wood. Allow the full 24 hours drying time before applying top coats. Post some photos when your done.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

mpkmpk said:


> i've never used peel bond, but have a project that seems right for it.
> Peeling front side of a house, full sun, harsh winters (ohio.)
> 
> stripped, scraped, sanded, power washed. mostly bare wood, some nail repair spots, trim is a hot mess, but they didn't want trim done other than a sand and cover.
> ...


Read the label bro! Peel bond is for bare wood & is acrylic. It replaces oil. If having tannin bleed. Add xim bleed control in. lay off with a brush on smooth substrates. Spray, but filter bag the product.

This is all I use. Oil sucks for bare wood compared to peel bond


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

I disagree Pilgrim


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

well, like i said, i'd never used the stuff before... but i couldn't possibly believe peelbond, or anything, could be better for bare wood than a nice oil. I was just worried as there is still a few paint spots and trim is kinda a mess... but from what i'm hearing and reading, i may be stripped enough to just stick with the trusty oil.

why would peelbond be great for bare wood though? even the can says to seal and stop "peeling" hence the name, "peel bond" -- to bond the peeling, no?

what am i missing CBC?


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Agree. That is a beauty of a prep job, and it doesn't need the build of peel Bond, but the penetration of a slow oil- BM oil Fresh Start for example.


I disagree. If my guys did that to a house I would be pissed. 
You have to now sand out all of those divots that you have on the siding. Use a Palm sander with 16 grit and then 60 grit. 

We paint shave everything, then Makita 5 inch with 16 grit, then palm sander then prime then hand sand the raised grain after priming.


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

pp - just so you know, this is why i was asking about the peelbond, i wouldn't show this off as something to be proud of. but it sounds like you are also saying don't peelbond, to hard sand, soft sand resurface, then prime like normal... so again, just go with the standard oil primer? another vote for no peel-bond...


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

No reason for PB. Oil primer and two coats of latex. 
PB should be used when the surface is alligatored or has heavy cracks. We only use it when the substrate is sound, but ugly. You should go over that work you did with a palm sander and try to get rid of those grind marks, it will give a better finished outcome.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

If you hasn't used peel bond then you don't understand. Get a peice of fresh cedar & prime the smooth side. Then another piece use oil. I personally don't use oil primers here in moisture & heat country. alegator cracking happens after a few years. oil is not flexable! It bonds & blocks only. 

I personally can't stand oil & don't use it these days anymore, honestly can't stand the stuff! I only use oil on deck products these days & not very often.

Do scratch test & sun test. Apply some paint over the primers put on your van/truck for the summer & winter then tell me what product you like...

Furthermore, peel bond is only a normal primer. No dust, lose & peeling paint, contaminants, etc... Should be on the substrate prior to priming as with any oil or primer! Peel bond is not super crazy, " i'll glue your peeling paint down crap". Lol! Plus, it requires to build a layer a couple coats. It's thick yes, but also can spread thin. Best left laid off though, not rolled on smooth surfaces.

Lastly! Peel bond alone is not good for bleed control. For this XIM bleed control additive is necessary.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Oil primer OVER Peel Bond?

Has anyone read the can? It says not to put oil over it. You can oil prime & THEN peel bond for leveling, or just peel bond.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> Lastly! Peel bond alone is not good for bleed control. For this XIM bleed control additive is necessary.


How good does that stuff work?

Your point about oil based products cracking and alligatoring is valid to an extent. Yet, the surface discussed in this topic was bare wood. It will take quite a long time in most cases for a single layer of oil primer to do that, if at all. We're talking over a decade, and also after subsequent repaints with acrylic topcoats that increasingly add to the surface tension. 

Yes, oil based finishes generally are not that flexible but for most primers they are designed to be. There's a big difference between the attitude of a oil primer and a oil finish. 

So, in this scenario, with oil priming bare wood, we can expect at least a decade of service and probably longer before we would find integrity issues with the primer and bonding. Have you used peel bond in a similar situation with similar substrate conditions a decade ago to see how it's performing? 

I would venture to guess not. So what you are saying is for the most part speculation. I'm not saying you are wrong and peel bond isn't a great product, I'm only talking about your premise that it's better than a quality oil primer in this specific situation.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

premierpainter said:


> You should go over that work you did with a palm sander and try to get rid of those grind marks, it will give a better finished outcome.


Yup...those swirls are going jump out at you when there is a uniform colour.

IMO - Peel Bond isn't the miracle worker I had hoped.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> How good does that stuff work?
> 
> Your point about oil based products cracking and alligatoring is valid to an extent. Yet, the surface discussed in this topic was bare wood. It will take quite a long time in most cases for a single layer of oil primer to do that, if at all. We're talking over a decade, and also after subsequent repaints with acrylic topcoats that increasingly add to the surface tension.
> 
> ...


Your point also well made. Who really knows how long todays technology will truly last. Plus, I hadn't had to use bleed control but once, & it worked. My memory is foggy though ben a few years (residential painter). Basically this is my premiss yes... A good gamble of philosophy I feel...


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## mpkmpk (Sep 30, 2012)

ok, so... sand better. slo-oil primer. peel bond OVER the oil if needed to smooth out imperfections. then 2 acrylics. is that the group consensus in this thread?


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

mpkmpk said:


> ok, so... sand better. slo-oil primer. peel bond OVER the oil if needed to smooth out imperfections. then 2 acrylics. is that the group consensus in this thread?



Sand. Oil. No peel bond. That's what I'm reading.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Do you own a belt sander?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> Do you own a belt sander?


Steve, you are not allowed to give advice. You wouldnt have sanded all the paint off in the first place. :jester:. JK.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Paradigmzz said:


> Steve, you are not allowed to give advice. You wouldnt have sanded all the paint off in the first place. :jester:. JK.


 Can't really say from that picture. Who knows..if I was gonna Peelbond anyhow, I might not have sanded at all.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> Can't really say from that picture. Who knows..if I was gonna Peelbond anyhow, I might not have sanded at all.


That's what I'm talking about. To much effort to go peel bond route.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Paradigmzz said:


> That's what I'm talking about. To much effort to go peel bond route.


Lol! This thread is like taking about sex when never trying it! Just try the peel bond & please don't think it's any different than any other primer where prep work needs to be done right still. just try it & experience it. Instead of intilectualizing it to death.

All I use is peel bond 95% of the time for all exterior bare wood. I never have problems/call backs &I could never I imagine going back to oil. That's how much I've used this stuff. 

You can think to death & never experience nothing, so get started after enough thought to learn the truth in the project of the moment!


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I've used it a few times, more and more often nowadays..although I try not to, I sometimes think about what it's gonna be like someday when I need to sand through it again.

I bet it clogs the crap outta my discs.

..but like I said, I try not to think about it.


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