# What is the best coating for cabinets?



## NoahK (Jul 3, 2020)

I’ve been painting for a few years and I do a lacquer undercoater followed up with the oil based PC. I see everybody on here is using Advance now is it that much butter than the oil?


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

The best coating for cabinets will be a conversion varnish or 2k poly


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

NoahK said:


> I’ve been painting for a few years and I do a lacquer undercoater followed up with the oil based PC. I see everybody on here is using Advance now is it that much butter than the oil?


 Advance is a waterborne Alkyd. I wouldn't say it's quite as tough as a true oil paint, but a strong runner up. However, this is the new age. Nobody (atleast me)wants to work day in and out with oil based paints and paint thinners anymore. They stink, very explosive (especially if spraying) and are just hazerdous as heck. 
Advance is also super brush friendly. Flows out for miles. There are tougher finishes though, yes. However most of them will be either spray only and more hazerdous. They will all eventually fail regardless anyhow.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

For years I have favoured Para's Ultra Hybrid but I am anxious to try their new Ultra Melamine Hybrid.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

*Conversion Varnishes FYI*

*What it is:* Also known as Swedish finish or acid-cure, conversion varnish is available as a one- or two-component finish. It typically has alcohol as a solvent and cures because of acid catalyzation.

*Years on market:* Developed in Sweden in the early 1950s and introduced to the U.S. market later that decade.

*VOC levels:* Conversion varnish has its own category for VOC laws, with a limit of 725 g/L 

*Application:* Depending on the product and the user, sprayed, T-bar or lambswool applicator or a roller is used.

*Advantages:* • Extremely durable and chemical-resistant.
• Quick-drying, allowing multiple coats to be applied in one day.
• Depth of colour comparable to an oil-modified poly.
• Smaller molecules dive into the wood, protecting wood cells.
• Excellent grain clarity, depth and colour.
• Easy repairs due to the coating's ability to wet back into itself.

*Disadvantages:*
• Extremely flammable, so all pilot lights and other ignition sources must be turned off during use.
• Strong odor—after application the job site must be ventilated with as many air exchanges as appropriate. Closing up the home can delay the curing process and prolong the smell in the home. All pets, including fish, must be removed from the home.
• Full-face respirators should be used during application. Because the finish releases a small amount of formaldehyde during curing, respirators should have organic vapour cartridges suitable for formaldehyde release. Many contractors choose to use full-face body suits to protect their skin. 
• Any direct drafts over the floor during application must be avoided. Indirect ventilation is a must.

*FACT:* Whether a finish is considered flammable or combustible depends on its flash point, the lowest temperature at which its vapours ignite in air when exposed to an ignition source. If a liquid has a flash point below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 degrees Celsius), it's considered "flammable." If it's between 100–140 degrees, it's combustible. (Products above 140 degrees require no designation.)


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## canopainting (Feb 12, 2013)

I doubt it.


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## Ralphgoss (Aug 1, 2020)

canopainting said:


> I doubt it.


Why?


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## paintwrapping (Jun 17, 2020)

I don't think it is better. I only used it twice myself so maybe it could have been under better circumstances? I don't know. I switched back both times before completing the job.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

paintwrapping said:


> I don't think it is better. I only used it twice myself so maybe it could have been under better circumstances? I don't know. I switched back both times before completing the job.


Better Circumstances.? Switched back to what?


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