# Fiberglass Door



## OraarO (Oct 19, 2007)

I have never encountered a fiberglass door that I haven't painted. The current customer has one (new, unfinished) that they would like to have match the new trim in the remodeled area we are working in.

Problem is, the trim is going to be clear varnished pine, and the fiberglass door is already darker than the pine around it.

Is there any way to "stain" it lighter to match clear pine?

If you know, I would be greatful for your insight, thanks.:notworthy:


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

You can't stain it lighter if the substrate is darker. You would have to paint. (Or solid color clear, like poly or varnish)


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Yep hard to make something lighter than it naturally is without painting it. You could do as Rcon suggested and try a solid clear 
I guess returning the door for the proper color is out?


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

It's called "Faux" Basically paint the base color back to a lighter color...to match wood tone. Then grain it to match.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> It's called "Faux" Basically paint the base color back to a lighter color...to match wood tone. Then grain it to match.


That would also work. Just make sure you're charging appropriately. This kind of work effectively doubles your time and triples your material costs - so naturally you have to double+ your price. 

I think you'll find with homeowners/GC's they'd rather paint a lighter color than pony up the extra expense.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

aaron61 said:


> It's called "Faux" Basically paint the base color back to a lighter color...to match wood tone. Then grain it to match.


I was going to mention something similar but figured as Rcon did that most of the time the budget does not cover this kind T&M.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

The only difference between this and doing a gel stain is getting a lighter starting color...couple of coats of paint shouldn't up the price that much.


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## OraarO (Oct 19, 2007)

This is pretty much what I figured.
Thanks.

Having never grained a door before (and this one has the grain grooved into it anyway) I don't think I'll recommend that.

I think either staining it a rich color, or painting to match the accent wall opposite the door would work.

And painting it the same as the wall it is on would work too, obviously.

I'll try to upload a picture and link to it if I can figure out how to....


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Gel Staining is easy Bro...More money & They will love it!!!


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> The only difference between this and doing a gel stain is getting a lighter starting color...couple of coats of paint shouldn't up the price that much.


Don't you put anything over your stain? 

I would think a finishing schedule for a faux job like that would be 2 base coats of a light color (1st product), gel stain overtop (2n'd product), sealer (third product), clear topcoats (fourth product). 

Depending on dry times - i'll assume poly:

1 day on base coats with quick dry tinted poly (4 hrs)
1 day on gel stain (1 hour)
1 day on sealer and 1st topcoat (3 hours, or 2 trips same day @ 1.5 hours)
1 day on final topcoat. (1.5 hours)

Total: 9.5 hours
4 products

As opposed to: 

a) 2 coats of paint - 1 day (3 hours w. dry time)
b) 2 coats quick dry tinted poly - (4 hours w. dry time)

total: 3-4 hours
1 product

Or; 

Gel stain (1 hour)
Return second day and apply 2 poly topcoats (3 hours)

Total: 4 hours
2 products

I think there is a big difference!


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Rcon said:


> Don't you put anything over your stain?
> 
> I would think a finishing schedule for a faux job like that would be 2 base coats of a light color (1st product), gel stain overtop (2n'd product), sealer (third product), clear topcoats (fourth product).
> 
> ...


You are only adding the step of getting the door to a lighter base color...maybe 2 hrs & a quart of paint.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Here are a few products worth looking into to make things go smooth. The dried undercoat finish is kinda important. Too flat is not good, too glossy is bad news.

Just recently discussed fiberglass doors here on PaintTalk

A graining base is an oil primer-like option for fiberglass doors. It will give you a nice eggshell-like finish to allow you to move stain around and have working time to do it. Too flat of finish minimizes your working time. Too glossy turns into a nightmare and offers not much of anything for your solid stain to bite into.

Personally I think gel stains (as a whole) as the least of my options for fiberglass doors. I prefer ZAR solid oils for this kind of work. Plenty of working time and IF you should screw up, grab some thinner and rags and wipe it off and start over. The graining base allows you to do that.

Your best bet as someone else suggested is to take your color deck and match a color as close to the color of the trim you are matching. Stay on the lighter side if in question, you can always make things darker with the ZAR stain. Mix various ZAR colors together to get a perfect match and a TIP using ZAR is to sample it on the door (with rag and thinner handy) so that you can comfortably apply the stain and achieve the depth of color desired.

Should you find your stain on the dark side of the match, then try working the stain off your brush further. You can thin ZAR a bit but only do that as a last resort to lighten a match.


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## OraarO (Oct 19, 2007)

....


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