# What kind of product can I use for Exterior Brick



## AztecPainting

I got an exterior job, this is a Brick Heritage Building (Built in 1885), I attached pics from before and how it look now, it has been painted like 7 months ago by the contractor labourers (He went cheap but now he realized it look like sh... and has to pay me to fix it), he told me they didn't prime it at all just 2 coats of exterior latex paint over bare brick, now, 7 months later look like it hasn't been painted in years and you can see some cracks and paint peeling off in some places, I am doing a different job for the same contractor so he gave me the job for sure, the problem is that I don't know exactly what kind of product I should use, Elastomeric? 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of exterior latex paint? Any suggestions will help me a lot, Thanks in advance!


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## Workaholic

Use a masonary primer and an elastomeric topcat, you could use any exterior finish of your choice but the elastomeric is ideal.


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## bulldogpaintingllc

try loxon XP it is a self primer and is made for brick. thick stuff though


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## AztecPainting

bulldogpaintingllc said:


> try loxon XP it is a self primer and is made for brick. thick stuff though


Where can I get that in Canada???


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## BC_Painter

AztecPainting said:


> Where can I get that in Canada???


It's from Sherwin Williams, not sure if you have one nearby.

Oh and Elasto-wall from GP is designed to be self priming to most masonry surfaces as well. You could easily do a test patch and see how it does.


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## WiseGuys Painting

in my opinion this building is pretty much screwed. no matter what you topcoat it with, the base is still not adhered to the brick. primer is useless at this point. you can spot prime bare brick areas with loxon or another masonry primer, but i would not prime the whole bldg again. just topcoat with an elastomeric or 100% acrylic ext paint and hope for the best. i recommend an out of sight warranty on jobs like this. warranty it until youre out of sight.


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## BC_Painter

WiseGuys Painting said:


> in my opinion this building is pretty much screwed. no matter what you topcoat it with, the base is still not adhered to the brick. primer is useless at this point. you can spot prime bare brick areas with loxon or another masonry primer, but i would not prime the whole bldg again. just topcoat with an elastomeric or 100% acrylic ext paint and hope for the best. i recommend an out of sight warranty on jobs like this. warranty it until youre out of sight.


Yeah it is screwed. Get as much of the topcoat paint off as you can, and due to the current condition, impossible to warranty. :thumbsup:

Give it the best shot possible at succeeding though.


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## AztecPainting

Thanks guys, I'll do my best, I actually wasn't thinking about warranty, I usually don't do any warranty for any contractor though unless is really high end. I talked to my rep from GP and is coming tomorrow to take a look, but they also already told me not to warranty anything. Thanks!


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## BC_Painter

AztecPainting said:


> Thanks guys, I'll do my best, I actually wasn't thinking about warranty, I usually don't do any warranty for any contractor though unless is really high end. I talked to my rep from GP and is coming tomorrow to take a look, but they also already told me not to warranty anything. Thanks!


Keep us posted :thumbsup:

Some before / after pics will be in order if it goes well


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## AztecPainting

BC_Painter said:


> Keep us posted :thumbsup:
> 
> Some before / after pics will be in order if it goes well


For, sure I'll do that. That would also be nice for my website too I think... :yes:


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## WisePainter

WiseGuys Painting said:


> in my opinion this building is pretty much screwed. no matter what you topcoat it with, the base is still not adhered to the brick. primer is useless at this point. you can spot prime bare brick areas with loxon or another masonry primer, but i would not prime the whole bldg again. just topcoat with an elastomeric or 100% acrylic ext paint and hope for the best. i recommend an out of sight warranty on jobs like this. warranty it until youre out of sight.


ffs, i spit my coffee oooout! 

Honestly first question to the GC would be "what is your budget?" The building looks resto worthy, and I would't touch it for anything less than that.


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## sash

Out of site warranty that's the way to go. 
Az, contact your preferred supplier and ask for a recombination with their warranty in WRITING. The above post won't due you no good if a failure were to happen. That is to big of a job for something to go bad. If a failure occurs you have your vendor to fall back on. 
 Gabraham


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## daArch

sash said:


> Out of site warranty that's the way to go.
> Az, contact your preferred supplier and ask for a recombination with their warranty in WRITING. The above post won't due you no good if a failure were to happen. That is to big of a job for something to go bad. If a failure occurs you have your vendor to fall back on.
> Gabraham



Gabe, that you? Your host name looks awful similar to your real self


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## sash

That's not a polite thing to say. Back to the OP

Az, better get 2 recommendations from 2 different vendors. Make sure your rep is a experienced in this. A good rep can make you look like gold.
 Gabraham


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## VanDamme

*"Elastomeric? 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of exterior latex paint? Any suggestions will help me a lot, Thanks in advance!"*

Looks like a good candidate for XIM Peel Bond.


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## AztecPainting

Hmm It seems like a nightmare, I am actually thinking on just let the GC to hire someone else... Well, if I make up my mind and do it I'll let you guys know how it goes... Cheers everybody!!!


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## nEighter

hydrosealer from glidden professional is fecking awesome. It is a masonry primer that is also a binder.

http://www.duspec.com/DuSpec2/produ...Id=21&productCode=6001&documentType=datasheet


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## WiseGuys Painting

if you end up doing the job and use sherwin williams product make sure you use a product tinted with environtoners, for a red color they will hold their color against fade at least twice as long. i wouldnt give up on the job , just make sure they are aware of the mistake the previous painter made and assure them you will do whatever you can to make it last as long as possible. this bldg will be a maintenance nightmare for years to come but you may benefit from scraping and repainting it for years to come. gl and dont bid low!!!


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## AztecPainting

WiseGuys Painting said:


> if you end up doing the job and use sherwin williams product make sure you use a product tinted with environtoners, for a red color they will hold their color against fade at least twice as long. i wouldnt give up on the job , just make sure they are aware of the mistake the previous painter made and assure them you will do whatever you can to make it last as long as possible. this bldg will be a maintenance nightmare for years to come but you may benefit from scraping and repainting it for years to come. gl and dont bid low!!!


Thanks, Unfortunately we don't have SW in this island, I think the closest one might be on mainland, I didn't bid it cheap, the GC already agree with my price and put a manlift as a plus just for me for 2 weeks. I think I can be able to handle this, I already talked to my rep and gave me good advice and info infront of the GC, so everything is good to go. Hopefully everything runs smoothly as I hope... Thanks guys!!! I'll start this till next month I think and I'll post some pics after... Cheers


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## NEPS.US

sash said:


> Out of site warranty that's the way to go.
> Az, contact your preferred supplier and ask for a recombination with their warranty in WRITING. The above post won't due you no good if a failure were to happen. That is to big of a job for something to go bad. If a failure occurs you have your vendor to fall back on.
> Gabraham





daArch said:


> Gabe, that you? Your host name looks awful similar to your real self


 
Bill - I believe the word is "pathetic".


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## premierpainter

Is this a case of "the blind leading the blind?" How did the last guy screw up and then hires you and you don't know what to put on brick? Loxon XP is the way to go.


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## AztecPainting

premierpainter said:


> Is this a case of "the blind leading the blind?" How did the last guy screw up and then hires you and you don't know what to put on brick? Loxon XP is the way to go.


Well, if you read the first post you could probably find out, but I just said that the GC put his labourers (not painters) to paint the exterior of this building around 7 months ago, they are not painters and they only used exterior latex, thats it, no primer what so ever, it is not that I don't know what I'm doing, but I've never been in this kind of situation before where is heritage brick building (this kind of building it's not common in this city), I am painting 16 condos of a brand new building (Interior and Exterior) for the same GC, so he ask me to give him the price for the heritage building as well, ok... BTW I already said that we don't have SW in this Island so I can't get Loxon XP.


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## Diversers

First The building needs to be tuckpointed.


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## mike7fec

*birck*

For this one it depends on if you want to just seal the stone and leave the brick look or if you want to paint it a solid color.

To just seal i would go ahead and use tuf tops hold out. Its a masonary clearcoat sealer that drys to a low lustre finish. multiple coats will give you a high sheen and i recommend 2 coats.

To paint with a solid paint I would start off with checking to see how chalky the stone is. If you rub the wall with your hand and it is real chalky just preassure wash let it dry 24 hours in good sun and seal with Ben Moores 066 acrylic masonery sealer. Light chalk can usually just be pressure washed and painted but i would check for chalk after it drys the next day. Then use what ever acrylic top coat you want. I recommend 100% acrylic no matter which company you go with and tans colors made with a ground pigment yellow oxide tend to keep there color and sheen longer and also reflect Ultra-violet light that breaks down paint coatings.

For application a spray machine with a 615** tip or large orphis. and back roll with a 1 1/2" lambskin roller cover. I use whizz,whichhas a local distributor in pinellas county, florida.

**( example: tip size is as stated. *## the star section or the 6## is the fan size divided by 2. so a size 6 tip is 12 inch fan. The second numbers is the orphis size which regulates the amount of paint exiting the gun)

let me know if you need anything to be covered. email if you need at [email protected] or repost a reply to this site.


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## saveonpainting

Hey its my buddy from Aztec Painting 

Latex on Bare Brick Sounds Like joke

Elastomeric will work.. dont forget to remove your filters from spray and add water!


Save on Painting Co. Vancouver Painting Company


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## DHlll

*check out this product*

The company is called KEIM. i just used some of there products. The homeowner insisted i used it. so before i jumped in, i made some calls, talked to a rep and read some spec sheets. It is a good product.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...2ATOHibUCZW19tCqg&sig2=UnLufwrOp2pqkIlWHxqySg


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