# Exterior caulk, what do you use?



## [email protected]

I have been using Stampede TX and Volkem. 

Is there anything better on the market?

I typically use if for hardie-board joints, sealing windows and door casings and perhaps a few other things...

Volkem seems to disapear after about 5 years or more. Stampede, I was told is pretty much the same product as Volkem.... plus I get a better price through SW...


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## WisePainter

This is pricey, yet amazing stuff.


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## MAK-Deco

We have used Vulkem 116 for over 10 years and haven't had any problems with it. We buy it by the case from a supply house.


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## nEighter

Now on elastomeric and urethane caulking that I have came across. It states you have to give it up to a week to dry/cure before painting. How many of you guys are ACTUALLY waiting that long? 

I use Year1 from ICI. The 45yr acrylic stuff.


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## Workaholic

I don't wait a week. I use ICI's 55yr and sometimes I use the 45yr.
I just tried PPG's Topgun 250 for an interior church project. It is suppose to be spray immediately or brush after 30 minutes. It worked great for being able to go over it quickly. 
I think it would dry to fast on a spring or summer day when prepping out a whole new house though.


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## nEighter

honestly that is why I like year 1's 45yr acr. It stays wet the longest and has the best body. Every once in a while you get some clumps.. still don't know why. BUT have been told to keep those tubes, bring them back so they can track that batch of caulking and they would give me a new tube for it. (actually they wanted the case.. but Eff stopping and going to store for a new friggin case mid prep).


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## Workaholic

nEighter said:


> honestly that is why I like year 1's 45yr acr. It stays wet the longest and has the best body. Every once in a while you get some clumps.. still don't know why. BUT have been told to keep those tubes, bring them back so they can track that batch of caulking and they would give me a new tube for it. (actually they wanted the case.. but Eff stopping and going to store for a new friggin case mid prep).


Yeah that has been a pretty common complaint with that 45, little clumps of crap in it.


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## ParagonVA

Big Stretch is supposed to be pretty bad ass. I've only used it for interiors, but I am impressed with it.


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## NEPS.US

Geocel 2300 for Hardies and Azek Trim.











http://www.geocelusa.com/php/oic/product.php?prdb_product_id=7

SW 950A for pp pine and cedar claps.


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## bikerboy

ParagonVA said:


> Big Stretch is supposed to be pretty bad ass. I've only used it for interiors, but I am impressed with it.


Big Stretch is what I use for exteriors.


http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Improvement/Big_Stretch.aspx


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## YubaPaintPro

Hi guys,
our line is very complete for the pot/brush, commercial, light industrial, and custom painters. My high end customers use http://www.kellymoore.com/products/sundries_1126kelsealsmoothurethane

Jason, I know you are close to a KM store. Ask your rep to sample you some of our 1126. I assure you, you will be impressed!

I would recommend being careful w/ some of the stretchy ones out there. Drying or lack there of can apparently be a problem.


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## YubaPaintPro

Found the link! I was impatient w/ my other post.
http://www.bondaflex.com/pdf/polyurethanes/tds/pur25textds.pdf

This material is going to be used by those of you who are comfortable w/ NP-1, Sikaflex, and Vulkem. All of these are very good.

From what I understand the Bondaflex Pur25 appears to tool better and be paintable quicker.


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## Tonyg

nEighter said:


> Now on elastomeric and urethane caulking that I have came across. It states you have to give it up to a week to dry/cure before painting. How many of you guys are ACTUALLY waiting that long?
> 
> I use Year1 from ICI. The 45yr acrylic stuff.


I use SW SherMax elastomeric for most everything interior and exterior. Says it can be painted in as little as 30min or as long as 4hrs. I usually will schedule paint for next day.

http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/I...basePath=/user_projects/static/pdf/datapages/


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## johnpaint

Caulks in the last few years have all gotten better, even the low cost Dap stuff. It's funny but I have had more problems with the Vulcum like products than siliconized caulks of any brand.The only time I use Vulcum is when I need to fill large cracks, but never in the middle of a long span of siding.
The main thing I want from a caulk is to be able to paint over in the shortest amount of time without flashing.White lightning 3006 is my main caulk.


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## tsunamicontract

oh I hate white lighting. worst caulk ever. I returned like a whole, and used, case because it was so bad. I dont want to be squirting cambels chunky soup out of a caulk tube, some parts watery, some parts lumpy. And the color was not even close to what the end of the tube looked like. I bought the grey tube and the caulk was tan. 
I really don't like big stretch either. I feel big stretch is not a good caulk to use under paint as it flexes too much and causes the paint to crack and flake. Plus, it is the biggest PITA to remove. Topgun from PPG is good, elastomeric caulks are nice too but I cant shot them from anything other than my ets3000 gun or my arm tightens up.


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## johnpaint

tsunamicontract said:


> oh I hate white lighting. worst caulk ever. I returned like a whole, and used, case because it was so bad. I dont want to be squirting cambels chunky soup out of a caulk tube, some parts watery, some parts lumpy. And the color was not even close to what the end of the tube looked like. I bought the grey tube and the caulk was tan.
> I really don't like big stretch either. I feel big stretch is not a good caulk to use under paint as it flexes too much and causes the paint to crack and flake. Plus, it is the biggest PITA to remove. Topgun from PPG is good, elastomeric caulks are nice too but I cant shot them from anything other than my ets3000 gun or my arm tightens up.


You always run the risk of that chunky stuff happening with color caulks of any kind. How about the dark browns or deep tan colors, not good. Also anytime they put color in caulk after the first winter it's all cracked up and separated.Me no like.


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## WisePainter

so far nobody has claimed SW 950.


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## NEPS.US

WisePainter said:


> so far nobody has claimed SW 950.


I did


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## WisePainter

DOH!

///must read thread again\\\


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## WisePainter

NEPS.US said:


> Geocel 2300 for Hardies and Azek Trim.
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> http://www.geocelusa.com/php/oic/product.php?prdb_product_id=7
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> SW 950A for pp pine and cedar claps.



Aha! I was mystified by the purple tube of stuff and read no further. Do you also find that the 950A carries with it too many air pockets in the tube?


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## NEPS.US

WisePainter said:


> Aha! I was mystified by the purple tube of stuff and read no further. Do you also find that the 950A carries with it too many air pockets in the tube?


 
Yup. I am fighting with them now. They had a sales push a month back and I got a bunch of sundries for a discount. 24 cases of 950A and 1/2 of them must of got frozen. Air pockets, hard crap in it (we call rat's tails) and the bottoms busted out of a bunch of tubes. I also think they changed the formula or their distrubuter ....for a good reason. The caulk seems a little "greasier" and better to work with on this last batch.


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## MAK-Deco

That's sometimes the problem with label caulks and such a lot of times when dealing with "BM" or "SW" labeled product you are really getting someone elses product re package and they can change that product w/o notice and w/o telling you. They go with the cheapest price probably..


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## Bender

100% silicone 

That stuff amazes me. 20 years could go by and it still wouldn't except paint. Pretty impressive.


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