# Textured ceiling over old paint



## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

Hi. Just looked at a job where the woman wants a textured ceiling put over the existing one. Currently she has old, thick paint peeling off in potato chip sized chunks in some areas. In other parts the paint seems to be adhering well. My questions:

1. Do I need to scrape the entire ceiling or can I just scrape the loose paint prior to putting on the texture? (ie., can the texture material go over the existing paint)

2. Once I scrape the ceiling, is there any prep I need to do to the scraped areas prior to putting on the texture?

3. What kind of material do I use to create a textured ceiling? She doesn't want a popcorn look. She wants more of a grooved-sheetrock knife look. I assume it's kind of like a joint compound kind of material but I'm guessing there is some special type of product specifically for doing this type of job.

Thanks in advance boys!


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

I never thought "experimenting" on a customers home was the best thing to do.

Yes....scrape all you can thats loose. What seems stuck on tight will come off a week after you texture it! 
You could Peel Stop it after scrape and maybe a good bonding primer.
As far as texture material......it could be anything from gypsum to a specialty product..(faux crap)

Adding weight to an already failing surface requires a bit of prep....usually more than you bid on!


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## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

I agree with Roadog: experimenting on customers homes rarely has good results. It also sounds like you actually do need to worry about lead possibilities, wear a mask and 6mil plastic off the room. I like Peelstop as well and this actually came to mind before I read Roadog's response, though I would actually step it up to Xim brand since it's thicker. You'll probably want to gripper/primer over that and then start your new texture. Or, heck...tear it all down and re-drywall.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

why is it peeling?


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

briancreary said:


> tear it all down and re-drywall.


 Or drywall over top existing.


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

Thanks for the replies but I'm not "experimenting" on the job, that's why I'm on here asking for the right way to do this. If I wanted to experiment I'd just wing it and see what happens. It's a rental apartment and the area in question is a small hallway ceiling; probably 10'x3'. For the record, the structure itself is in good shape. The ceiling isn't falling, it's just that the paint is peeling. As to why it's peeling - that's a good question. I suspect it's from lack of priming as the building is over 100 years old so whenever it was originally painted it probably wasn't prepped correctly. I'll scrape and try the Peel Stop. Any other suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

PS - I always take precautions regarding lead exposure. I took the EPA course and am certified in dealing with lead issues.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

E&J Painting said:


> Any other suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.


 Even tho it is peeling in some place and appears solid in others, you still may have problems. If you are using a crows foot texture, I would bet my life you will have issues even tho you scraped. Are you E or J ?


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

Ha. Funny. I'm both E *and* J. Started by my father and uncle and now it's just me. Do you see any way around scraping down then entire ceiling AND avoiding some of the existing paint letting go after I put the joint compound over it?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

its an apt, who really cares. just get the job done


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## ltd (Nov 18, 2010)

*yes sir re jim bob*

is the ceiling org. or does it have a heavy half ass texture on it / if just peeling paint scrape what you can dont get crazy if paint stays on ceiling then it aint going anwhere. prime with zinnzer cover stain skim voids with easy sand 20 set. its just 10 x3 ceiling i would buy gal texture paint or if you have jc mix i little warter and play sand and do your thing . but if some one already has a heavy tex on their i might pass and something better will come up


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

It's the original plaster under the paint. And where the paint is peeling it's peeling right down to the plaster, which is in excellent condition.


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

If its over 100 it could be a calcimine issue. So to avoid your texture falling off later it would be best to scrape it all down. However, you could get lucky by putting a couple coats of peel stop or gardz to try to get some saturation into the old lime. BM Calcimine Recoat (flat oil) is another option. I think the key is to figure out what is causing the peeling. My experience with not removing it all, usually you will see issues in days wether its going to hold or not, especially with any water based because it tends to reactivate the calcimine (if that is what it is). It could also be the lime mixture. Not all plasterers were created equal back then or now and the lime/sand mix was not always a good recipe. Either way you need to consolidate the lime plaster surface. After that you should be OK.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

E&J Painting said:


> It's the original plaster under the paint. And where the paint is peeling it's peeling right down to the plaster, which is in excellent condition.


 You are making this harder than it has to be. My suggestion is that you pass on this one before you hurt yourself.


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## clammer (Feb 13, 2009)

E&J Painting said:


> Thanks for the replies but I'm not "experimenting" on the job, that's why I'm on here asking for the right way to do this. If I wanted to experiment I'd just wing it and see what happens. It's a rental apartment and the area in question is a small hallway ceiling; probably 10'x3'.
> 
> Sheetrock comes in 10' sheets throw one up tape, mud .paint and call it a day 1/2 the mess and time.This will solve the peeling problem permanetly


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

As far as material....i've heard good stuff about these guys.
http://www.variancefinishes.com/wall_finish_omnicoat.php


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