# re staining log cabins.



## Quaid? (Mar 13, 2009)

this is my question. When i have looked at log cabins that need a maintenance coat/re staining, ive always got the HO to find out what was put on it the first time. Once you find out what is on the logs, than you can just follow the manufacturers instructions on re coating. I am looking at one right now that the south side and gables are in horrible shape, most stain will prob come off with a low pressure wash, except for the soffets. The back side is in pretty decent shape, but def needs some work and looks very old. It is a transparent stain, looks like it could be sikkens (I hope). If you cant find out what specifically was put on originally, how to you go about coating the place without having to strip the entire cabin? Ive had this question for a while, but havnt ever had to deal with it.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Thats what I call the "band-aid" fix. It can be done, although its not the best "fix". I guess it depends on what the H.O's expectations are, and what they are budgeted for. The few times that i've helped guys in this situation they usually strip whats worn the most. Re coat the parts that arent damaged, then try and match the color to the parts that were stripped. Sometimes this involves tinting the transparent stain, or intermixing different stain colors. 

The best bet, would be to start from scratch. Have the house Cob blasted. Then coat with a new product. I would suggest Sikkens Log & Siding. This will need a maintenance coat every 3-5 years. The downside is the initial up front cost of the strip and finish. The upside is the low cost of maintenance so long as they keep up on the 3-5 year schedule, and this also means repeat business for you.


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## Quaid? (Mar 13, 2009)

thanks bud, i love the sikkens, thats what i always used. Im just wondering about when you do decide to do the bandaid fix, and dont know what was previously used, how do u pick a product that you know will penetrate the old product?


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i have been in your situation several times.

you could easily spin your wheels stripping portions of the siding, tinting, and hoping it all blends seamlessly

i tell the customer the chances of everything looking uniform is slim.

i wouldnt stand behind the "band aid"

and good luck getting log and siding to last 3-5 years on the sunny side of the house.

after you strip, be sure to hit it with some oxy to neutralize, and brighten it.


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## brushmonkey (Jan 4, 2010)

If the cabin is in as bad of shape as you say it has to be stripped & brightened, the PH in the wood has to be brought back to balance & you must eliminate all mold in the wood before you re-stain. There are no quick fixes on a log home finish once it has been let go (gray & darkened) for years. They are supposed to get yearly washing maintenance & a UV clear-coat every 3 years. This is a very labor intensive & product expensive process. Call a Log home building company or log home supply company in your area for complete info. You don't have to use this particular product but the Strip & Brite page @ this site explains alot.www.timberprocoatings.com Good luck!


Quaid? said:


> this is my question. When i have looked at log cabins that need a maintenance coat/re staining, ive always got the HO to find out what was put on it the first time. Once you find out what is on the logs, than you can just follow the manufacturers instructions on re coating. I am looking at one right now that the south side and gables are in horrible shape, most stain will prob come off with a low pressure wash, except for the soffets. The back side is in pretty decent shape, but def needs some work and looks very old. It is a transparent stain, looks like it could be sikkens (I hope). If you cant find out what specifically was put on originally, how to you go about coating the place without having to strip the entire cabin? Ive had this question for a while, but havnt ever had to deal with it.


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## Quaid? (Mar 13, 2009)

thanks. Ive always used the cabots mildew killer and detergent, followed by the wood brightener. I love how it works, brings the logs back looking like new (on the raw wood)


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Quaid? said:


> thanks bud, i love the sikkens, thats what i always used. Im just wondering about when you do decide to do the bandaid fix, and dont know what was previously used, how do u pick a product that you know will penetrate the old product?


I cant think of any semi-trans that will penetrate anything that is still sealed. Thus the color differences and the need to multi coat, tint, or intermix colors. Its a lot of messing around.

We had to do one that was an addition on a restaurant. The new logs needed to match the existing....multiple maintenance coats of Cetol 123 and Log & Siding over the years. So needless to say, the contractor used a much darker color on the first coat, followed up by 2 more coats of a lighter color.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

high fibre said:


> i have been in your situation several times.
> 
> you could easily spin your wheels stripping portions of the siding, tinting, and hoping it all blends seamlessly
> 
> ...


Right on. The 3-5 is just a recommendation. Three years on the sunny side shouldnt be a problem, 4-5 on the shaded sides. The key is maintenance. It costs less for a wash and maintenance coat, than a total strip, sand, and 2 coat finish.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i maintain several sikkens houses, and the sunny sides get a clearcoat every other year.

in all honesty, i dont even want to do them anymore.

that stuff will ruin everything you use on the house.

extension poles get ruined
shoes,pants,shirts get ruined
roller frames get ruined
drops get ruined

i just throw away the brushes nowdays

i dont even like getting thinner on my hands anymore.

when sikkens comes out with a waterborne, ill gladly check it out.

my sikkens guy said if they had to, they could bring one to market real quick.


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## brushmonkey (Jan 4, 2010)

HF, that's so true about clothes, drops & equipment. I factor in all brushes, rollers etc. for every new stain job. Even though the stuff we use _is_ a waterborne product, it still just destroys brushes & rollers. Better to just throw them after every job. I hate to even run it through my rigs but on big jobs its the only way to go.


high fibre said:


> i maintain several sikkens houses, and the sunny sides get a clearcoat every other year.
> 
> in all honesty, i dont even want to do them anymore.
> 
> ...


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

brushmonkey, what waterborne material do you use?


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## brushmonkey (Jan 4, 2010)

Timber Pro UV. Its in the same price range of Sikkins. www.timberprocoatings.com :thumbsup:


high fibre said:


> brushmonkey, what waterborne material do you use?


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