# Armstrong stain



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Just wondering if anybody has used this 
Product . Bidding a really nice cedar siding re stain . I was thinking about trying it out . I use a lot of Cabot with pretty good results .


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Armstrong/Clark? I am going to try it also. It seems to have similar workings to TWP and has a 6 hour dry time...which is far superior to the 48 hour dry time called for with TWP 1500. They are both in the same price range.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

from what i have read the wood guys love that stuff, I have herd nothing but great hings about it. I wish I could get it locally here


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

:thumbsup: Cabot's is not in the same league.

There is also a proiduct down there in Plano Texas called Baker's Gray Away that we use a ton of.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

PressurePros said:


> :thumbsup: Cabot's is not in the same league.
> 
> There is also a proiduct down there in Plano Texas called Baker's Gray Away that we use a ton of.


Thanks man I call them today really nice people , 
looks like great stuff , pretty reasonable too. I guess 
I am going to have to drive to get it 
though , road trip time ...Thanks Terry Beutler Painting and Drywall 
repair ...


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

Ill say one thing about AS I was on a forumn asked whear I could find and in 30 minutes I got a call from the owner of the company ofering all the help I could ask for, on the weekend no less. I just dont like the idea of having to order it for every job.

Ken how long does it last??? I have never seen a stain last more then 3 years in this area. whats so good abot the appalication????

thanks
dave


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Dave, much of the same applies to any coating... ease of use, spread rate/coverage and durability. Wood pros add in maintenance. Armstrong has a nice body and a mix of curing and non-curing oils. The NC-oils rejuvenate and moisturize the wood and penetrate deeply. The D-oils lock fungicide at the surface and create a weather/UV barrier without forming a film. You won't get lap marks even in high sun and maintenance is a simple bleach wash and recoat. No buildup. Lasts about two years on horizontals.

I still prefer the old school stains with solvent carriers but they are going by the wayside. I will quit doing wood before I use anything water borne that contains acrylic. Armstrong is an outstanding VOC compliant oil.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Thanks man I call them today really nice people ,
> looks like great stuff , pretty reasonable too. I guess
> I am going to have to drive to get it
> though , road trip time ...Thanks Terry Beutler Painting and Drywall
> repair ...



Tell Mariella Ken says "Hello" !


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I am having mildew issues with A.C. - I think for arid dry climates, it's the best product out there. But for more humid areas like in the northeast, I'd prefer less 'conditioning' oils and more curing oils. I know this goes into 'film-forming' territory - but I think it needs more of a 'film' than what it has for my kind of weather. It's still my primary stain at the moment - and I am finding out where it works well and where it doesn't. It basically posseses every property I want in a stain, but if the mildew persists - I'll have to drop the product and continue my search.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Dan,

How are you getting mildew? Is this from the water beading and just sitting there on top of the wood until it evaporates, causing moisture to hang around longer? I've noticed the water staying around for a while during cloudy periods after a rain, but I haven't had any mildew yet.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

The mildew just appears. After I blasted off the stain with bleach and reapplied - it sat there for a month, then I had rain for 3 days straight, and all these black spores just popped up all over the 2nd finish - they were still at a stage where you could rub them off with your thumb, and I rubbed them off with some bleach - but you take away material a.k.a. stain with this procedure.

Bottom line is that it sounds really cool to replenish the wood deep inside with parafinnic oils - but I am convinced more and more that you can't combine curing oils and parafinnic non-drying oils in the same product. If you want to coat a deck with parafinnic - then do it with a 100% product and then topcoat with a curing oil system at a later date. I find that the two oils together disrupt the polymerisation of the curing oils on the surface and never really hardens in my climate. The best stains in the past I used had pre-cured 'full-bodied' tung and linseed resins that were rock hard the moment all the spirits evaporated. 

A.C. is a great product, especially for a dry arid climate with loads of Sunshine/UV radiation. But it's just not dialed right for snowy winters and humid wet summer environments of the northeast. It needs more hardness at the surface. I just cleaned a 2 yr. deck of mine the other day, and it was beautiful - but you could see all the oils coming out in the rinse water.


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