# Cutting in rubber baseboards?



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

You know, the kind in office buildings, etc. All of the interior work I have done has been residential but I had a gig in a medical office yesterday painting an exam room and lab rat office. The office is not that old and many of the rooms have already been repainted, but the two I had still had the original paint (i.e. painted before the baseboards went on). I noticed in all the other repainted rooms you could see the paint from the cut ins on the VERY top edge of the baseboard. I didn't like the way that looked at all so I thought it would be in my best interest to one-up the other painters and leave the baseboards looking clean. 

I knew right away that having a wet brush wouldn't work so I tried to dry brush. That was tough and slow-going because I just didn't have enough paint on the bristles to coat it well enough. It could be done but it was SLOW.

So what I did was break out the blue tape and stuck half of it to the baseboard then pressed the tape down on the lip with my 5-in-1 to make sure I really sealed it off, then took my razor and sliced the remainder of the tape off. Sounds tedious but it really didn't take all that long. I made sure not to have too wet of a brush, cut in twice and remove the tape. Perfect! :thumbsup:

Is there a technique you use to avoid getting paint on the lip without taping OR it taking a dog's age to cut in? 

Later I thought about scoring the drywall just above the lip so there would be a specific place for my bristles to settle in. I'm not sure why this seemed to be so particularly difficult for me since I have no problem cutting in next to wall-mounted cabinets, etc. The rubber baseboard just seems to be a different animal.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Taping is the way to go. Just learn to tape better/faster so you don't have to cut excess. That takes too long. 

Knifing the edge down is good.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Tape can be your best friend, I wouldn't even think about using a razor on a wall to make a line to cut down to, no way, also if you get some paint on that base lightly sand off the paint, not to much pressure other wise you will see it. I haven't cut in much of that type of base, it will come with experience. I didn't tape mine and did fine cutting it in. I do use tape when just painting walls and no trim especially if the last painter got wall paint all over the trim work, this is one way of up selling a trim job.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

804 Paint said:


> Is there a technique you use to avoid getting paint on the lip without taping OR it taking a dog's age to cut in?
> .


Pull back the top and brush behind, then release. The base is usually glued on but not so tight that you can't pull back the top 1-2 inches.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Rcon said:


> Pull back the top and brush behind, then release. The base is usually glued on but not so tight that you can't pull back the top 1-2 inches.


we would use one of those DIY carpet edgers to do that. The long ones, With practice, you can slip it along as you brush.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I pull a thin, damp rag tight against a thin putty knife, then pull it against the top of the base. The thin line that has been cleaned is almost invisible if you don't have a drastic color change.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I paint two offices a week with this type of base. I agree with Jmays on this. It takes some practice, but laying the tape perfectly is the solution. 

I prefer blue 3M for this.

Gwarel's tip also works well. Doesn't take much longer if at all than taping. This will actually work even if the paint is somewhat dry. I have removed old paint in this manner as well.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Its called cove base. Fyi


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I tape the base and bump the tape with the roller is all. quite often on repaints the new color is close enuff to the old so you run the tape a hair or two up onto the wall and it's all good.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

I run white tape barely up onto the wall. Just enough so that the paint that bleeds under the edge will run right up to the baseboard. When you pull the tape, if you were off a little in a few places you just clean it off with lacquer thinner or cut it in a little more.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

I use the non-crepe blue tape (I can never remember the 3M number), smooth it into the crease with my American Express Black card, and slice off the excess. That goes very quickly. For the odd bleed through, I scrape it off with a snap blade. The very top edge of rubber base is sliced during the manufacturing process and is rougher than the rest, the scraped area doesn't show.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Gough said:


> I use the non-crepe blue tape (I can never remember the 3M number), smooth it into the crease with my American Express Black card, and slice off the excess. That goes very quickly. For the odd bleed through, I scrape it off with a snap blade. The very top edge of rubber base is sliced during the manufacturing process and is rougher than the rest, the scraped area doesn't show.


Another great example of why you should never leave home without it. Do you get cash back when you do this ? lol


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

Yeah pulling back the COVE BASE was my first thought but that crap was glued tight all the way to the top and I didn't want to mess with it. 

I guess taping is the way to go. I like Oden's method of rolling to the base. I feel it's a bit risky but hey, life is short!

One thing I LOVED about painting in an office was the tile ceilings. SO easy and fast to cut in. No crappy hack jobs on the drywall to screw up your paint line!


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

cdpainting said:


> I do use tape when just painting walls and no trim especially if the last painter got wall paint all over the trim work, this is one way of up selling a trim job.


Yeah unless you are painting the same color and you forgot to point out the sloppy work BEFORE you were done, lol.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

804 Paint said:


> Yeah unless you are painting the same color and you forgot to point out the sloppy work BEFORE you were done, lol.


True but still if the HO sees you taping the trim you atleast have a fighting chance of not being blamed.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Paradigmzz said:


> Its called cove base. Fyi


Ya got it backwards. We call it base cove here.


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## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

I would free hand it, using a 3" brush. Keep the wet rag handy to wipe top lip if needed. I've tried taping it, pushing tape down with putty knife and still having it roll off. It goes pretty fast free handing once you get used to it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

harmonicarocks said:


> I would free hand it, using a 3" brush. Keep the wet rag handy to wipe top lip if needed. I've tried taping it, pushing tape down with putty knife and still having it roll off. It goes pretty fast free handing once you get used to it.


WHAT ?!?!

You FREE HAND ?!?!?! How so 1990's 

 :laughing:


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## DirtyPainter (Oct 18, 2013)

harmonicarocks said:


> I would free hand it, using a 3" brush. Keep the wet rag handy to wipe top lip if needed. I've tried taping it, pushing tape down with putty knife and still having it roll off. It goes pretty fast free handing once you get used to it.



Free handing it works, but if it's orange peel or a somewhat sloppy or aerated texture who has time for that on a color change? Like Hines said, double tape. Or tape it tight and run a quick and light bead of clear caulking along the cove, cut your top and by the time you finish that the bottoms ready for your cut. If it's not, like someone else said (brain fart) cut your top and corners, skip the bottom first cut and just roll to your tape, without gobbing a bunch on the bottom of course. Let it set up. Cut whole room. Roll whole room. Pull masking. Smile. 


Atleast that's been my experience. 

Cove sucks. Period. Much better if you can get in before it goes it. But if that's not the case.. We can only do our best!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Someone will laugh at this, undoubtedly, but back in the day, we would apply floor wax to surfaces that we though would get some drips, splatters, or other errant paint on them, such as floors (where drops would creep away from the base) and cove base. The paint would remove easily with a finger nail.

this was before blue tape when it seemed that all masking tape would rip in shards off the roll.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> Someone will laugh at this, undoubtedly, but back in the day, we would apply floor wax to surfaces that we though would get some drips, splatters, or other errant paint on them, such as floors (where drops would creep away from the base) and cove base. The paint would remove easily with a finger nail.
> 
> this was before blue tape when it seemed that all masking tape would rip in shards off the roll.


Glad to hear that others have taken this same approach.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

If You guys would just learn how to use a brush your life would be so much simpler


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Gough said:


> Glad to hear that others have taken this same approach.


You're kidding?! You've done that? Just goes to show, there are NO original thoughts.

and we thought we were geniuses. Musta been what was in the bong.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Ole34 said:


> If You guys would just learn how to use a brush your life would be so much simpler


brushes are old school :whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

daArch said:


> brushes are old school :whistling2:


Foam rules!:whistling2:


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## deadend (Aug 1, 2013)

*...never painted to it but...*

...in my neck...it's sanitary base...medical offices...hospitals and whatnot...sanitary places...


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## burchptg (Jun 30, 2013)

daArch said:


> Someone will laugh at this, undoubtedly, but back in the day, we would apply floor wax to surfaces that we though would get some drips, splatters, or other errant paint on them, such as floors (where drops would creep away from the base) and cove base. The paint would remove easily with a finger nail.
> 
> this was before blue tape when it seemed that all masking tape would rip in shards off the roll.


Actually, in the past I had used petroleum jelly in the same way. Just wipe when done.


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

If I'm painting the same colour to the wall I use a fine sanding block to clean up the area, wipe with a damp cloth, and paint a dry brush effort. If the color is not the same, light sand top edge, wipe, Frog tape the top edge, seal or place with a 4' putty knife or longer. The more thorough you apply tape if you have to use it, the less time it takes to paint and be finished.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

This thread has been so helpful! I would stress big time whenever I came across cove base. I mean, it has that little weird edge on it and I want to be real fast and perfect and all. And, even though I've been painting for a long time, they're really scary!

Thanks to the OP for your post, and all the members that provided such reassuring information on handling this difficult situation.


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## DirtyPainter (Oct 18, 2013)

CApainter said:


> This thread has been so helpful! I would stress big time whenever I came across cove base. I mean, it has that little weird edge on it and I want to be real fast and perfect and all. And, even though I've been painting for a long time, they're really scary! Thanks to the OP for your post, and all the members that provided such reassuring information on handling this difficult situation.


And only on PT do you see a post such as this and have to think, is he seriously thankful.... Or just being an arse :jester:


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

DirtyPainter said:


> And only on PT do you see a post such as this and have to think, is he seriously thankful.... Or just being an arse :jester:


I may be an ass..., OK I am, but why wouldn't I be serious about a serious painting issue as painting over cove base? 804 brought up a very serious cut in issue. I applaud his insight!:thumbsup::notworthy::yes:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

CApainter said:


> I may be an ass..., OK I am, but why wouldn't I be serious about a serious painting issue as painting over cove base? 804 brought up a very serious cut in issue. I applaud his insight!:thumbsup::notworthy::yes:


Yep - there are bushels of sincerity on PT.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Thanks for recognizing my sincerety RH... I mean Mod...uh Sir.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

bunch of base cut ups here


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

If someone asks an honest question, they should have the right or expectation to a fair answer, not the double talk bull**** that rules on many threads.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

ejs said:


> If someone asks an honest question, they should have the right or expectation to a fair answer, not the double talk bull**** that rules on many threads.


I always thought the phrase was, "An honest question deserves an honest answer". But you're right, far too often a "fair" answer is given in place of an honest answer, to prevent hurting a posters feelings. God forbid you take the liberty to challenge someone's sensibilities on an open forum where the rules of decorum does not include kissing everyone's ass, or stroking their egos.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

DirtyPainter said:


> Free handing it works, but if it's orange peel or a somewhat sloppy or aerated texture who has time for that on a color change? Like Hines said, double tape. Or tape it tight and run a quick and light bead of clear caulking along the cove, cut your top and by the time you finish that the bottoms ready for your cut. If it's not, like someone else said (brain fart) cut your top and corners, skip the bottom first cut and just roll to your tape, without gobbing a bunch on the bottom of course. Let it set up. Cut whole room. Roll whole room. Pull masking. Smile.
> 
> 
> Atleast that's been my experience.
> ...


OK, I have heard of the clear caulk method used when painting stripes, etc on a wall. I don't understand how this works. Won't some of the caulk that's on both tape and stbp still bond as one coat? So when you pull off the tape, the caulk comes off, but wasn't it also bonding to the wall?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

804 Paint said:


> OK, I have heard of the clear caulk method used when painting stripes, etc on a wall. I don't understand how this works. Won't some of the caulk that's on both tape and stbp still bond as one coat? So when you pull off the tape, the caulk comes off, but wasn't it also bonding to the wall?



You pull it before its dry all the way. I like to use Big Stretch clear because it dries so slow. Also the idea is to use a thin smear of caulk, just enough to seal the edge.
That's how I do it anyway.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

*OK*,

Influenced by ejs's concern about fair replies, and given that I consider myself an expert when it comes to painting walls with cove base, (I also install vinyl tile and cove base as part of my job description) I submit the following observation:

First and foremost, cove base is an architectural design feature primarily reserved for commercial applications. Commercial applications normally involve facilities which are subjected to regular use by the public, or facility personnel. These facilities normally have a janitorial staff, that are either contracted out, or are in house. They provide cleaning maintenance to vinyl or carpeted floors where rubber cove base is incorporated. The cove base, in many of these facilities, have been scratched, nicked, gouged, or splashed with wax during floor maintenance.

It is not uncommon to come across cove base that has been speckled or overlapped with paint during a previous repaint, usually by commercial painters. It is also not uncommon for personnel in these facilities to not notice or even care about paint splattered cove base. Most of the time, their attention is consumed by larger priorities. The point being, that applying a level of craftsmanship to cove base as you would to a higher end personal dwelling, may be a waste of time.

With that said, when I come across a job requiring cutting in a cove base, I quickly assess the aesthetic requirements given the surroundings and visual importance of the cove base, and proceed as follows

*Cove base with paint on it., i.e. stair well, janitor closet, or floor space with cubicles:*
-Wipe with a dry rag, or duster
-If there is dried wax, lightly sand the top prior to taping. 
-Lay down either 1" or 2" tape
-Set tape with anything from a 1" putty knife to a 6" broad knife, what ever is handy. (I usually carry a 3" broad knife at all times).

*Note:*_ Taping options: Sometimes I will use a masking machine to avoid using drop cloths if the space is tight, or I have a long run like a hallway. During hours of occupancy, where drop cloths can be an encumbrance to the staff, I'll either run the tape and paper along the top of the cove base to floor, or mask the top of the cove base with a single strip of tape, then kick a roll of 16" paper down the length of a hall. This goes really fast, but wastes a lot of resources besides creating more garbage. _

I also like to remove the tape within the same day if possible. If not, I'll make certain that I'm pulling the tape off in a downward direction. 

*Cove base with paint, wax, and airborne grease and dust build up in similar locations as mentioned above:* 
-Wet wipe with low VOC degreasing product immediately followed with dry rag wipe
-Same taping procedure, or options as above

*Paint splattered cove base in the Manager or President's office:*
-If the paint splatter isn't too bad, I've found a light sanding on the top of the cove base after degreasing, but prior to painting, helps to make it less visible. Obviously, replacement is necessary if the cove base is really beat up. (Although this creates a lot more work). 

*Note:* _Another tip that was mentioned in this thread by Dirty painter or Hines, was taping slightly above the cove base. (No more then 1/8" as I was taught). But this works only if you're repainting with a similar color. Besides, it doesn't allow one to practice getting good at taping. I also wouldn't recommend rolling down on top of taped cove base as Oden suggested even though I have practiced this in the past when aesthetics didn't matter, and time was too limited to cut the base in._

*Bottom line* There needs to be an assessment made concerning the environment, aesthetic demands, and the time it takes to clean a paint spattered cove base verses replacement, or even repainting the cove base, which I also have done. 

I hope I've provided a fair and honest reply to the OP.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I wish i could give myself a THANKS. That was awesome!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

*I* was impressed, *VERY* impressed.

Enough so that I award you:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I want a gold star.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> I want a gold star.



for what ?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

daArch said:


> for what ?


I don't know. I only got 1 way back in kindergarten. I forget what's it's like.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Sorry Dave,

I don't give them out for going to sleep during nap time or flushing the toilet after making number two.

I believe that's the second one I've awarded, and one bronze.

They are earned and I hope coveted


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

CApainter said:


> I wish i could give myself a THANKS. That was awesome!


It was truly outstanding, CA.:notworthy:

Now if someone would cue up Rick Nelson's song "Garden Party"....._.Out stepped Johnny-Be-Good_ and that wonderful line... _You know ya can't please everyone, so ya got to please yourself_.....well I think this thread will be complete.:yes:


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

daArch said:


> for what ?


For being a daArch fanboy.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

epretot said:


> For being a daArch fanboy.


Dave and I apologize to you for liking each other. Can you find it within your charity to forgive that mutual respect and admiration ?

Thank you for your tolerance

OH, if you forgive that transgression, I will submit a list of a few more PaintTalkers with whom I have believe there exists common ground and interests.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

daArch said:


> Dave and I apologize to you for liking each other. Can you find it within your charity to forgive that mutual respect and admiration ?
> 
> Thank you for your tolerance
> 
> OH, if you forgive that transgression, I will submit a list of a few more PaintTalkers with whom I have believe there exists common ground and interests.


"Why you gotta be angry all the time"?
-Tim McGraw


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

You should try to just ignore my posts. You'll be MUCH happier, as obviously you have issues with everything I write.

Take a deep breath and repeat after me, "He's not worth my aggravation, he's not worth my aggravation."

There, don't you feel better.

:thumbup:


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

daArch said:


> You should try to just ignore my posts. You'll be MUCH happier, as obviously you have issues with everything I write.
> 
> Take a deep breath and repeat after me, "He's not worth my aggravation, he's not worth my aggravation."
> 
> ...


:laughing::laughing::laughing: At you, not with you.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I just spent more time reading about painting over cove, than I've ever spent thinking about it.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

epretot said:


> For being a daArch fanboy.


I don't understand your hatred towards Bill. Myself I try to get along with every one, If I don't like what these type on here I simple ignore their posts and refrain from commenting on their posts. It's easy try it if you hate Bill that much.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

How can anyone hate Arch?

Go look in the mirror, ask yourself that, and let us know what you come up with.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

cdpainting said:


> I don't understand your hatred towards Bill. Myself I try to get along with every one, If I don't like what these type on here I simple ignore their posts and refrain from commenting on their posts. It's easy try it if you hate Bill that much.


I love Bill...


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Steve Richards said:


> How can anyone hate Arch?
> 
> Go look in the mirror, ask yourself that, and let us know what you come up with.


It would be about like hating this guy. 

Not possible. He's too funny and likable. Like a stanky old pair of sneakers that you just can't toss. 

No hating on Bill!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> How can anyone hate Arch?
> 
> Go look in the mirror, ask yourself that, and let us know what you come up with.



DAMN, I just looked in the mirror, now I hate me.

How do I ignore what that a-hole in the mirror writes ?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

This guy:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> Like a stanky old pair of sneakers that you just can't toss.


My Bills:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Steve Richards said:


> My Bills:


You always know what to expect, though. There is something to be said for that!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> My Bills:



hope there's dog poo embedded in the soles


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

daArch said:


> hope there's dog poo embedded in the soles


Nope
No soles left. The bottoms are slick!


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Steve Richards said:


> Nope
> No soles left. The bottoms are slick!


Your Bill's got no soul? :thumbup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> Nope
> No soles left. The bottoms are slick!


Wait a minute, my bottom has the imprint of SOMEONE's foot


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Steve Richards said:


> How can anyone hate Arch?
> 
> Go look in the mirror, ask yourself that, and let us know what you come up with.


I just did and the mirror shattered.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

epretot said:


> For being a daArch fanboy.


It's also some thing called RESPECT YOUR ELDERS. No matter how much they get under your skin.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

cdpainting said:


> It's also some thing called RESPECT YOUR ELDERS. No matter how much they get under your skin.


I respect the "person".


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

epretot said:


> I respect the "person".


You're supposed to respect the uniform, mister!


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Gough said:


> You're supposed to respect the uniform, mister!


Only if he wears whites.


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)




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