# Painting Oak Cabinets



## nkpaintingvt

Hello,

I'm doing a job this winter that involves a kitchen. Cabinets are currently varnished Oak, headed towards paint grade (Cottage White). I'm going to do the prep on everything and sub out a spray finish on the doors and drawer fronts. Here's the order of operations I'm thinking about and the products. Any input is appreciated!

1) Remove hardware, label, TSP wash, etc
2) Sand, round sharp corners
3) Fill oak grain with unknown product - any favorites?
4) Prime with XIM UMA Primer
5) Fill and sand any imperfections
6) Prime again
7) Sand down everything to a chalky powder with my Festool toys
8) Send off the drawers and doors to a spray finisher that recommends General Finishes White Poly - thoughts on this finish?
9) 2 coats Impervo on the bodies/face frames


I'd love to hear any thoughts, thanks for looking!


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## MikeCalifornia

my only advice, make sure the white that your finisher uses matches the one you will put on the boxes. Mix matched whites stick out like a sore thumb.
Your prep methods sound fine, a little overboard, but if thats what the client wants, needs, and ultimately will pay for then cool. GL.


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## Epoxy Pro

Fine paints of Europe brushing putty. For oak cabinets we don't fill the grains much. The added cist and time seems to be a turn off for our customers who have oak.


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## RH

nkpaintingvt said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm doing a job this winter that involves a kitchen. Cabinets are currently varnished Oak, headed towards paint grade (Cottage White). I'm going to do the prep on everything and sub out a spray finish on the doors and drawer fronts. Here's the order of operations I'm thinking about and the products. Any input is appreciated!
> 
> 1) Remove hardware, label, TSP wash, etc
> 2) Sand, round sharp corners
> 3) Fill oak grain with unknown product - any favorites?
> 4) Prime with XIM UMA Primer
> 5) Fill and sand any imperfections
> 6) Prime again
> 7) Sand down everything to a chalky powder with my Festool toys
> 8) Send off the drawers and doors to a spray finisher that recommends General Finishes White Poly - thoughts on this finish?
> 9) 2 coats Impervo on the bodies/face frames
> 
> 
> I'd love to hear any thoughts, thanks for looking!


I think you'll find that number three on your list is the biggie - both in what type of product to use and in the overall scope of the project.


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## Epoxy Pro

RH said:


> I think you'll find that number three on your list is the biggie - both in what type of product to use and in the overall scope of the project.


I let the homeowners know the price difference between filling the grains or leaving them alone. 99% leave them alone.


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## finishesbykevyn

I've done tons of the good ol honey oak cabinets. I concur with the other guys about filling the grain. That shouldn't be necessary. The varnish has probably filled most of the grain already, and If you work the primer in really good it will get in the canals and not be as noticeable. Plus, it is what it is. It's painted Oak! Seeing the grain is part of the charm. IMO.


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## PRC

Better and probably cheaper to buy new paint grade doors than grain fill oak.


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## sharrard

I get a lot of calls on this, I like to stay away from painting oak cabinets as a rule and if i have to do it never do I do it white. In discussion with others, one suggestion was to brush and roll on the initial coat of primer in order to fill in the grain and avoid pinholes. This could work but once the brush and roller come out I'm not interested (and the crack between the center panel and the rails becomes filled - not good). Grain filling - not worth it - too much labour. 

I wrote an article for my website on this topic alone - Spray Painting Oak Cabinet Doors - to save me countless hours discussion with clients over email. see www.sharrardpainting.ca\oakcabinetdoors


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## Jmayspaint

I use a spray on grain filler. It's a thick, clear acrylic finishing medium. Spray on a couple coats and sand. Works wonders for oak and isn't nearly as labor intensive as hand applied grain fillers. Not only is it obviously easier to spray the material, but the sanding necessary is greatly reduced. 

https://fauxmasters.com/product/master-finishing-medium/

It can be brushed and rolled on as well, just takes more sanding to smooth it out. 


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## PACman

Sherman williams make a great spray product for this. Lets have some fun and see who is the first person to get their SW rep to figure out what it is!


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## ParamountPaint

We've painted quite a few oak cabinets. I haven't had any complaints about the grain showing, but I make it very clear that it will beforehand.

By the time we'd do all this elaborate prep to fill the grain on most likely older/cheaper oak cabinets, I can up-sell all new maple cabinets, and most likely an entire kitchen renovation.

For example, we can paint your oak cabinets for $5K. We can make them perfect by filling the grain and what not for $12K. We can replace the whole deal for $15-25k.

These aren't any sort of real numbers, but the ratios are about right. $5k is pretty reasonable for a light face-lift...$12k is a lot of money to spend for minor gains.

In my experience, people would rather spend on either end of the spectrum, but the middle is a lonely place. We also do kitchens, so that factors in to it as well.

The grain doesn't look that bad, anyway...adds character/distressed look.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

I've always used Sher-wood filler, mix it with a little paint thinner and just wipe it into the grains. Light sand after and there ready for primer. I've used sher-wood and sw easy sand primer and have achieved super smooth results.


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## RH

ParamountPaint said:


> We've painted quite a few oak cabinets. I haven't had any complaints about the grain showing, but I make it very clear that it will beforehand.
> 
> By the time we'd do all this elaborate prep to fill the grain on most likely older/cheaper oak cabinets, I can up-sell all new maple cabinets, and most likely an entire kitchen renovation.
> 
> For example, we can paint your oak cabinets for $5K. We can make them perfect by filling the grain and what not for $12K. We can replace the whole deal for $15-25k.
> 
> These aren't any sort of real numbers, but the ratios are about right. $5k is pretty reasonable for a light face-lift...$12k is a lot of money to spend for minor gains.
> 
> In my experience, people would rather spend on either end of the spectrum, but the middle is a lonely place. We also do kitchens, so that factors in to it as well.
> 
> The grain doesn't look that bad, anyway...adds character/distressed look.


Went and bid a really large bathroom cabinet painting job last week. Older oak cabinets in terrible shape. Gave the HO's my numbers and they about collapsed. People just don't understand how much is involved to produced a quality job. I mean, cabinets get painted in just a few minutes all the time on the DIY and remodeling shows on TV. And although they never show the finished products up close, they must look amazing.


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## ridesarize

It's pretty sad to see these diyers and bloggers cabinet jobs. Hey they went to school though, for video production, so they must have it all figured out.


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## MurphysPaint

Even if they look good up close, let's see what they look like in 12 months...


Murph


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## PACman

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> I've always used Sher-wood filler, mix it with a little paint thinner and just wipe it into the grains. Light sand after and there ready for primer. I've used sher-wood and sw easy sand primer and have achieved super smooth results.


That's one way, but they actually have something that you can spray on and sand. Although the Sherwood filler is better for deeper grain. Try using a body filler applicator sometime. Works great.


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## PACman

RH said:


> Went and bid a really large bathroom cabinet painting job last week. Older oak cabinets in terrible shape. Gave the HO's my numbers and they about collapsed. People just don't understand how much is involved to produced a quality job. I mean, cabinets get painted in just a few minutes all the time on the DIY and remodeling shows on TV. And although they never show the finished products up close, they must look amazing.


Like i always say, anyone can smear some mud on something and call it "painted".


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## PACman

MurphysPaint said:


> Even if they look good up close, let's see what they look like in 12 months...
> 
> 
> Murph


That's a good point. Quite a few of these "great" cabinet paints and systems look pretty funky after a few months. It's hard to get a paint that applies smoothly and holds up for under $35 these days. Regardless of what you know who says.


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## Woodco

PACman said:


> Sherman williams make a great spray product for this. Lets have some fun and see who is the first person to get their SW rep to figure out what it is!


PLEASE tell us what this product is! Or better yet, a competitors equivilant...


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## futtyos

*A couple of thoughts*



nkpaintingvt said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm doing a job this winter that involves a kitchen. Cabinets are currently varnished Oak, headed towards paint grade (Cottage White). I'm going to do the prep on everything and sub out a spray finish on the doors and drawer fronts. Here's the order of operations I'm thinking about and the products. Any input is appreciated!
> 
> 1) Remove hardware, label, TSP wash, etc
> 2) Sand, round sharp corners
> 3) Fill oak grain with unknown product - any favorites?
> 4) Prime with XIM UMA Primer
> 5) Fill and sand any imperfections
> 6) Prime again
> 7) Sand down everything to a chalky powder with my Festool toys
> 8) Send off the drawers and doors to a spray finisher that recommends General Finishes White Poly - thoughts on this finish?
> 9) 2 coats Impervo on the bodies/face frames
> 
> 
> I'd love to hear any thoughts, thanks for looking!


nk, you might want to do a google search for "TSP Paint Talk" - obviously without the quotation marks - before you use any TSP for cleaning. Apparently, many of the Zinsser primers and sealers say not to use TSP for cleaning. Just beware.

As far as filling in the grain, I am working on several doors in a condo that had a very heavy orange peel texture from multiple layers of paint rolled on over the years. In addition, the front entrance door is a 60 year old solid core wood door that has verticle hils and valleys that show up when the door is opened and the incoming daylight highlights these ridges. I used Durabond mixed with a little Mud-Max (Trim-Tex product) to increase the glueability. Everything sanded down very smooth. I would be fairly confident that the oak grain could be filled with this mixture. I just don't know what primer would be best to spray onto this. On my front entrance door I put a thin coat of Gardz over the Durabond to soak in and make the DB even stronger, but even as thin as the Gardz is, it left a faint stipple from the roller. I have never sprayed Gardz, so i don't know how that would come out or even if Gardz would be a good thing to put onto a cabinet face.

All I know is, the Durabonded surface got really smooth after being sanded down. I will have to test this on a piece of oak and see how it fills the grain. What I would do is put a really thin skim coat on first, making sure that no excess DB is left after the grain is filled. Then I would apply another skim coat of DB which would, in effect, seal any porous openness in the DB, leaving a very solid finish after sanding. On walls, I have gotten skim coats of Durabond to shine without any sanding involved, and it is 60-70% plaster of Paris as the MSDS indicates.

The more I write about doing this, the less I think that anyone would want to pay for all that labor, but I feel it just might work if the right primer is used. Here is a link from a DIYer that used Durabond to seal the grain on oak cabinets, just to give you an idea of what I am talking about:

https://homestagingbloomingtonil.wordpress.com/tag/drywall-mud-as-grain-filler/

futtyos


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## WeLovePaintingToo

I didn't read all the comments but we use white lacquer undercoater with great success. Usually takes 5 coats though.


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## Woodco

Im too scared that lacquer undercoater wont stick to previously finished surfaces... I realize a lot of them were laquered, but still. Anyone have any input?


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## woodcoyote

Woodco said:


> Im too scared that lacquer undercoater wont stick to previously finished surfaces... I realize a lot of them were laquered, but still. Anyone have any input?


That's why when you do cabinet refinishing jobs, you need to test what the finish could be. Even without determining exactly what it is, you should know and be able to identify, at a minimum, what it isn't. 

The reason being is then that will help you determine what to use or what not to use. 

Lacquers as you know will re-melt into each other. That's why they are not recommended as a built-up finish, because it is harder to build up. Unlike an acrylic finish, with every subsequent coat there becomes a second identifiable layer. 

When in doubt, scuff sand, then use the back of the door as a sample. Just do a small section. Of course it helps if you pick a door not always used much such as above a microwave or refrigerator, in the event it doesn't work or come out good, a re-do won't be as noticeable. 

If it's lacquer as you say, then it'll be just fine. Test with lacquer thinner to see if it remelts the finish on the door a little. If it does, then your in fine shape. 

Good luck.


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## Woodco

Let me ask you this then... Whats the advantage of a lacquer undercoater instead of a shellac? BIN seems to sand just fine to me, and I can back brush/roll it a little bit to work it in the grain. I wouldnt try that with a lacquer.

After this last batch of oak cabs I just finished, I think my go to system will be clean/sand/ thinned shellac with back brush for grain. Sand, and shellac again. paint. OR... If they want to spend the money, after the first prime, spray with PPG primeline WB undercoater, sand and topcoat. Tried it out, it sands good, and I get a great price on it. Do you think its too soft?


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## woodcoyote

Woodco said:


> Let me ask you this then... Whats the advantage of a lacquer undercoater instead of a shellac? BIN seems to sand just fine to me, and I can back brush/roll it a little bit to work it in the grain. I wouldnt try that with a lacquer.
> 
> After this last batch of oak cabs I just finished, I think my go to system will be clean/sand/ thinned shellac with back brush for grain. Sand, and shellac again. paint. OR... If they want to spend the money, after the first prime, spray with PPG primeline WB undercoater, sand and topcoat. Tried it out, it sands good, and I get a great price on it. Do you think its too soft?



I'd say lacquer undercoats generally have a more build capabilities. They fill more than a shellac would. So your getting the sandability and the filling ability in the same product.

Now...when I say filling, that doesn't take the place of a "wood grain filler". Not to be confused with them, but you do get basic filling abilities with them. Shellac in general is thinner and is meant to be more of a sealer without actually getting too much fill.


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## WeLovePaintingToo

Well said woodcoyote. We primarily use the white lacquer undercoater as a grain filler for oak cabinets and it works great.


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## Danahy

Degrease, light scuff , Bin (brush and roll to fill pores/grains), light sand spray surfacer and then lacquer is how I tackle 90% of golden oak cabinets. The holes/pores get filled, the texture remains, the current gap between the panel and the rails remains whatever you had before I started, I hide whatever I can, but don't mess around with the integrity of the door.


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## davidmiller

Grab your wood fill and fill the areas using a putty knife. Once dry, use the sanding block to create a smooth, seamless finish. Use a tack cloth on the cabinets after sanding and make sure you have a nice, clean surface to paint on. :smile::smile::smile:


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## lilpaintchic

So we're trying to finish a job like this....48 doors.big entertainment center built ins....complete PITA.
Tried to compound the grain with coverstain (3coats) no real improvement but we did get caught behind solvent entrapment. Bummer. Filled with woodwise floor filler and sanded....the guys oversanded but they looked great prior to a coat of 123 trying to build with a sheen bearing product. Filled again and again. Another 2 coats of 123. Topcoated with breakthrough in a very dark brown. They look like s4it. Boxes and flats look great but doors are my nemesis right now. 
I'll be bringing the uppers home to scuff and use ppg wood undercoater tinted gray and reshoot by when I'm happy with the build. Any advice? No beatings necessary, I'm doing a fine job of that on my own...:/
Oh, and this was the set up. NO IT DIDN'T WORK. better ideas? We don't do many cab jobs. As a gc, we usually install new ones. I have NEVER been asked to remove the grain on oak before...and I hope it never happens again.









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## lilpaintchic

And the reason we moved forward knowing I wasn't happy with the finish is two-fold. 1 not knowing which ones went where, having them reinstalled under the new lights (not in pics) was going to allow me more discernment as to what was going to "fly" vs. Not. 
And we had other trades waiting on our cluster f***. 

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## ThreeSistersPainting

With oak cabinets I use Sher-Wood Filler, mix it with a little paint thinner (its an alkyd wood filler) and dab a rag into it. Working circle motions across the grain, wait an hour and light sand. I use Sherwin's Easy Sand Primer (oil-based, nice build and sands smooooth).


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## ThreeSistersPainting

I've used the same set up for my last 2 cabinet jobs and it works good. I am able to spray both sides, as a matter of fact; with this set up I was able to spray 3 coats of Rudd Chromacat and package them in bubble wrap the same day.


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## Jmayspaint

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> I've used the same set up for my last 2 cabinet jobs and it works good. I am able to spray both sides, as a matter of fact; with this set up I was able to spray 3 coats of Rudd Chromacat and package them in bubble wrap the same day.




Do you fill the holes left from the screws or just make sure they are on the unseen edges of the doors? Just curious. 


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## ThreeSistersPainting

When we remove the doors we stick a little piece of tape on the unseen edge (so we remember which edge to drill) then fill and touch up after.


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## lilpaintchic

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> When we remove the doors we stick a little piece of tape on the unseen edge (so we remember which edge to drill) then fill and touch up after.


Why not use the hinge holes? Our set up worked like I wanted it to, I just would prefer the stackers that would allow a horizontal dry..i need to build a proper rack. Or but the good ones I've seen on here. ..theyre just so expensive! Then I learned (of course, the hard way) that this way was probably more expensive than the dang racks.:/ how much would the racks cost to accommodate this set if doors? Anybody know? I figured probably $800-1k...am I off?

Also, is my expectation of very few and very minor imperfections just unrealistic? I'm chasing my tail it seems...

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## ThreeSistersPainting

lilpaintchic said:


> Why not use the hinge holes? Our set up worked like I wanted it to, I just would prefer the stackers that would allow a horizontal dry..i need to build a proper rack. Or but the good ones I've seen on here. ..theyre just so expensive! Then I learned (of course, the hard way) that this way was probably more expensive than the dang racks.:/ how much would the racks cost to accommodate this set if doors? Anybody know? I figured probably $800-1k...am I off?
> 
> Also, is my expectation of very few and very minor imperfections just unrealistic? I'm chasing my tail it seems...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The spacing of the hinge holes on the larger cabinet doors are too far apart to hang on a hanger. I learned to do cabinet doors this way, THOUGH I am looking at this rack to put in my shop 

https://erecta-rack.com/ <<< SUPER COOL and affordable!


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## Woodco

lilpaintchic said:


> Why not use the hinge holes? Our set up worked like I wanted it to, I just would prefer the stackers that would allow a horizontal dry..i need to build a proper rack. Or but the good ones I've seen on here. ..theyre just so expensive! Then I learned (of course, the hard way) that this way was probably more expensive than the dang racks.:/ how much would the racks cost to accommodate this set if doors? Anybody know? I figured probably $800-1k...am I off?
> 
> Also, is my expectation of very few and very minor imperfections just unrealistic? I'm chasing my tail it seems...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I've been a horizontal dryer too, but if you use WB alkyd, there is a dnager of sticking when you flip them. I really like that coat hangar technique from those pictures. I might revamp my whole setup..... All cabinet doors have an edge thats unseen. two hooks on that edge, hang, spray and move over like a closet. Sounds perfect.


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## lilpaintchic

Woodco said:


> I've been a horizontal dryer too, but if you use WB alkyd, there is a dnager of sticking when you flip them. I really like that coat hangar technique from those pictures. I might revamp my whole setup..... All cabinet doors have an edge thats unseen. two hooks on that edge, hang, spray and move over like a closet. Sounds perfect.


The biggest issue we had was solvent entrapment. We used coverstain. 3 coats. It took 3 days for them to powder up. The ones on the ends were good after 24 hrs but the middle ones screwed up the flow a bit. And borrowing one of our carpenter's laborers (in pic) slowwwwwed things considerably. We used 2"screws and tie wire. Screwed into an area covered by the hinges. We really just needed a better crew and a bit more space....:/ for starters anyway. 
It rained for 3 weeks here. We got 1 good, warm day where things dries better and faster. It also sucked trying to get them all on the rack without hitting a wet door. Shot both sides at once...over all it was the inexperience of 2 other guys who over sanded every time and my inability to go over every single door as we were finishing another big project and I was pretty distracted. And it's just not something I've ever done...the process is straightforward and time consuming and needs a discerning eye....

The pics attached are from the other job we were working on....new case,base,beams,doors all walls and ceilings, etc. A bunch of other carpentry, stone work and a new mantle to match the existing cabinets.
Definitely not focused...but both jobs are nearly complete. Waiting on 4 solid doors for this job (hope they come in with the right style this time?)and respraying the upper cab doors on the other. Then I need to go fishing for a few days. Exterior season is gonna start hopping in the next few weeks...ugh.:/ I'll post finished pics of both. I'm just tired and cranky.









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## Repaint Florida

lilpaintchic
try adding a box fan on low to circulate air

just need a little air moving and they'll dry better

















here's a old link on cabinet painting

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/kitchen-cabinet-painting-orlando-fl-34377/





.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

I dont understand why everyone is so about the BINZ for cabinets. I ALWAYS use SW Easy Sand Primer, its around $40 a gallon, chalks up super nice within 1-2 hours, fills and sands super smooth. The extra money you spend is worth it when your talking about time, time is money!


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## lilpaintchic

Repaint Florida said:


> lilpaintchic
> try adding a box fan on low to circulate air
> 
> just need a little air moving and they'll dry better
> 
> View attachment 91162
> 
> 
> View attachment 91170
> 
> 
> here's a old link on cabinet painting
> 
> http://www.painttalk.com/f2/kitchen-cabinet-painting-orlando-fl-34377/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What's your go to for grain filler?

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## Repaint Florida

lilpaintchic said:


> What's your go to for grain filler?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


nothing, we have no problem selling oak with the grain ... satin finish

only 1 out of 40 are oak anyway

we average painting 400 to 450 doors a month, 90% of our work is cabinet painting


.


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## lilpaintchic

Repaint Florida said:


> nothing, we have no problem selling oak with the grain ... satin finish
> 
> only 1 out of 40 are oak anyway
> 
> we average painting 400 to 450 doors a month, 90% of our work is cabinet painting
> 
> 
> .


Like, thank, like, thank, like, thank. ♡ ♡♡♡♡♡.

I think my boss really screwed me on this one. I'd have sold em with the grain, made great $ on an and been done. He doesn't sell a lot of jobs like this without my input but this one got away...
Got another cab job coming up next week. Lready painted oak, off white, just a fresh coat needed.I'm gonna use your set up in my garage. I guess our original set up wasn't awful, just not big enough. And IKEA hangers would be better in the long run I guess.
Straight over the existing coating with breakthrough and done.

Question...do you find that when using a dark color in breakthrough that the sheen or color is slightly"off" if the boxes are rolled and the doors sprayed?

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## finishesbykevyn

lilpaintchic said:


> Like, thank, like, thank, like, thank. ♡ ♡♡♡♡♡.
> 
> I think my boss really screwed me on this one. I'd have sold em with the grain, made great $ on an and been done. He doesn't sell a lot of jobs like this without my input but this one got away...
> Got another cab job coming up next week. Lready painted oak, off white, just a fresh coat needed.I'm gonna use your set up in my garage. I guess our original set up wasn't awful, just not big enough. And IKEA hangers would be better in the long run I guess.
> Straight over the existing coating with breakthrough and done.
> 
> Question...do you find that when using a dark color in breakthrough that the sheen or color is slightly"off" if the boxes are rolled and the doors sprayed?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I agree on the grain filling. There's been alot of discussion on this. The procedures mentioned are definitly priceless, however I've never had a complaint on the fact that I don't fill them. Usually the client is getting them painted because they are to cheap to replace them. Once you start getting into grain filling, It's borderline cheaper to mill up new doors..
I do about 1 of these per month lately with just an airless 490 Graco 311 tip sprayed in my shop with Advance. Primed with Stix.
Repaint Florida. Are you still using the Breakthrough? Also, are you priming beforehand or just going straight over old varnish? Not sure if I can get this Breakthrough in Canada...


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## ParamountPaint

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> I dont understand why everyone is so about the BINZ for cabinets. I ALWAYS use SW Easy Sand Primer, its around $40 a gallon, chalks up super nice within 1-2 hours, fills and sands super smooth. The extra money you spend is worth it when your talking about time, time is money!


I'm getting BIN for around that price and I think it's just an extra layer of insurance. Sure, it's nasty to work with, but that stuff will stick to anything. Cabinets are filthy, filthy beasts, covered and soaked with invisible cooking grease. Especially, porous woods like oak.

BIN is not always the best for everything, but it does a damn fine job for what is it made for. It's also not cheap!

Second choice would be Coverstain, but I've heard that some of you are getting lower VOC versions that aren't as good.


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## ParamountPaint

lilpaintchic said:


> Like, thank, like, thank, like, thank. ♡ ♡♡♡♡♡.
> 
> 
> Question...do you find that when using a dark color in breakthrough that the sheen or color is slightly"off" if the boxes are rolled and the doors sprayed?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I've had that in deep base colors. We did one in barn red, and we also had the same coverstain issues as you were talking about, as well. They shot too much tint into it and killed the dry time, which I merrily ignored, but then had these doors sitting in my shop for a week before I could sand and top coat them.

The sprayed sheen was slightly sheen-ier than the foam-rolled cases, which nobody seemed to notice except I. I just left it alone. They were full overlay cabinets, anyway, so I doubt anyone ever has noticed.


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## lilpaintchic

ParamountPaint said:


> I've had that in deep base colors. We did one in barn red, and we also had the same coverstain issues as you were talking about, as well. They shot too much tint into it and killed the dry time, which I merrily ignored, but then had these doors sitting in my shop for a week before I could sand and top coat them.
> 
> The sprayed sheen was slightly sheen-ier than the foam-rolled cases, which nobody seemed to notice except I. I just left it alone. They were full overlay cabinets, anyway, so I doubt anyone ever has noticed.


I'd like to roll the boxes on this next job ...good to know what to expect.
I shot boxes and doors on the last job, shot the product back into the can for t/u and it was still a touch "off" in color and sheen. I'm the only one who'll notice but being new to breakthrough was looking for feed back. 
I know it's pretty normal anyway with med-dark colors but eh, figured I'd ask anyway.. 

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## finishesbykevyn

lilpaintchic said:


> I'd like to roll the boxes on this next job ...good to know what to expect.
> I shot boxes and doors on the last job, shot the product back into the can for t/u and it was still a touch "off" in color and sheen. I'm the only one who'll notice but being new to breakthrough was looking for feed back.
> I know it's pretty normal anyway with med-dark colors but eh, figured I'd ask anyway..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


LPC. I wonder if this could also be because your paint is now watered down slightly from sprayer? Maybe separate some non thinned paint for brushing. Plus the texture from roller stipple/brush lines will affect how light reflects off the paint...Doubt anyone would even notice..


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## lilpaintchic

finishesbykevyn said:


> LPC. I wonder if this could also be because your paint is now watered down slightly from sprayer? Maybe separate some non thinned paint for brushing. Plus the texture from roller stipple/brush lines will affect how light reflects off the paint...Doubt anyone would even notice..


I was wondering that too...i may have contaminated it ever so slightly cuz I ran it through cleaning it out.

I know this method works wonders on dark exterior touchups and figured it'd be the same on this project. The molecularization of the tip does change the sheen and color sometimes....
At present, I have the doors set up in my garage and will "hillbilly test" em before I'm done....it sure would be nice to roll the next set of boxes.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## finishesbykevyn

lilpaintchic said:


> I was wondering that too...i may have contaminated it ever so slightly cuz I ran it through cleaning it out.
> 
> I know this method works wonders on dark exterior touchups and figured it'd be the same on this project. The molecularization of the tip does change the sheen and color sometimes....
> At present, I have the doors set up in my garage and will "hillbilly test" em before I'm done....it sure would be nice to roll the next set of boxes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Ya. I brush and roll all my boxes too. Been using BM Advance because it flows out so nice.
Good luck!


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## Wareaglerebel

I just finished a set where I used zinser bond coat with great success covering the grain. I did 2 coats of that then I used emerald water based urethane in gloss. That primer will basically bond to anything. And its relatively cheap. After lightly sanding rhe original finish then putting on the 1st coat you could barely see any graining. The 2nd coat covered it completely. I had never been a fan of big box brands until a competitor reccomended this primer. Which i tried only bc of the cheap price. But was very shocked at the great results.


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## Brushman4

The more I write about doing this, the less I think that anyone would want to pay for all that labor, but I feel it just might work if the right primer is used. Here is a link from a DIYer that used Durabond to seal the grain on oak cabinets, just to give you an idea of what I am talking about:
futtyos, This woman Tracy is not really a DIY'er, she says she's a Journeyman Painter and a House Stager. Not exactly an amatuer.


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