# Problem Wall



## Jaxson34 (Feb 27, 2016)

Hi guys I have a question about a problem wall. I have a tall long wall that gets a lot of natural light. The customer wanted a satin finish. I applied Superpaint satin. (I agree that there are better paints paint brands out there. I just can't drive 40 miles to buy them, so its SW or Lowe's.) 
So I can see my roller stripes when I look at it from an angle where I overlapped about 1-2 inches. Paint store manager recommended priming so I primed with Kilz total cause I had some on hand. Didn't fix it. 
The district rep came out and recommended another coat with a 1/4 nap all rolled from top to bottom. They offered to supply the paint. But this will be the 6th coat on the wall. 2 first then 1 primer then 2 more. the first coat did not show the stripes. 
So I am going to apply the Superpaint as recommended but I am wondering if i should prime again and if I should use something else instead of Kilz to do it.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

first sand the wall really well if it is smooth. prime with drawtite or gardz lastly apply the finish paint add some water or extender too it and make sure you finish every stroke in the same direction up or down. I prefer down. Good luck sometimes it is just not possible to make the wall perfect given difficult lighting situation we just had one recently and it was difficult to make it look good. I was the only one ever not happy with it but I wont tell you how many coats I put on one wall until I was happy.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

You can always give the wall a skim coat. Level 5. Doesn't really take much time if you roll mudd on and wipe off.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

? It needs a bit of sanding because now you have some texture that will show through. And see if you can go down a notch on the gloss level. A good eggshell will not show lap marks as much as satin does and won't be significantly less durable then a satin. And then, I would highly recommend driving forty miles if you can get something other then SW, Valspar, or Behr. How much time and money have you already spent? Isn't it time to nip that in the butt?


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

Where I live, satin is trim paint. I agree with PAC for the most part, eggshell is a much better choice. I understand people are people and want what they want, but I just won't paint an area with critical lighting with a high sheen. Many (maybe most) painters will and they are welcome to it. I'm just not interested in a job that I know I will probably have to eat. 

I know where you are with this and I feel for you--been there and took a beating. 


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.


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## ImagelinePainting (Jun 18, 2010)

First of all super paint is one if the worse products I have used. I tried it in velevet and barely could get it to not flash... I would suggest using some extender and one of those marathon roler sleeves that SW sells. Good luck.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

RH said:


> Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.


Agreed :thumbsup:


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

ImagelinePainting said:


> First of all super paint is one if the worse products I have used. I tried it in velevet and barely could get it to not flash... I would suggest using some extender and one of those marathon roler sleeves that SW sells. Good luck.


I didn't say it! I did NOT say it!:whistling2:


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## Jaxson34 (Feb 27, 2016)

Here is my plan, sand the wall where the roller overlapped and created the sheen. Prime with Gardz. 
I asked the customer if I could repaint the whole project using flat instead of satin. Hope to hear back from him soon. 
Massively discourage satin in natural light next time. 
I am hesitant to apply a level 5, just not something that I have a lot of experience doing. 
I am taking this job a bit in the shorts but live and learn. 
Edit added a word

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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Gardz should help. As has been pointed out in other threads, Gardz seals very well, but may need a quick second coat to create an evenly sealed surface.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

RH said:


> Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.


I miss oregon....


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Is it a medium or dark color? What size set up are you using 9, 14, 18? Are you being critical or is the ho? Is it smooth or textured? I'd say it's pretty well saturated and primer won't do anything to help you. It's just an (unnecessary)additional step. Could be one of several things or a combination. Xtender is a great place to start. And switch your gear as you're probably using the same techniques over and over and creating more of a problem. Give it a good pole sand, throw some Xtender in it and bag the windows (contractor bags or paper or?? If it's sunny outside the surface is probable getting and staying too warm and ya don't have enough open time) or close the blinds if it's tacking too fast. I start there anyway...lay it all off in 1 direction..


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## Jaxson34 (Feb 27, 2016)

It's a very light color a creamy white. 9 inch frame. Smooth walls, and the home owner is an engineer... Quick to ask for a discount and free work in the same breath. Lol. 
You have to be less than 15 degrees off the wall to see anything. From 15 to Looking straight on it looks great. 
It was raining every time I painted the wall. 
I like the idea of all new gear on this. 




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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

I agree with lil--don't see what Gardz or any primer would do at this point. I'm liking the gear/equipment idea as well. I've never used microfiber sleeves on a wall yet, but the short nap ones do a jam up job rolling on satin paint on doors, etc. of course I'm using good, leveling waterbourne paint (BM Advance or Muralo Ultra Flow Satin). I've got 21 doors to do tomorrow with microfiber and/or Red Feather mini roller. 


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## ImagelinePainting (Jun 18, 2010)

Won't change anything if you prime the wall again, in "theory " super paint is a paint and primer in one...👻 microfiber rolers won't really work on this paint I have tried that route too. The only sleeve that I really found to work decent was the Marathon from Purdy. Also get the 1/2" nap so you can have enough product to spread ...


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## ImagelinePainting (Jun 18, 2010)

PACman said:


> I didn't say it! I did NOT say it!:whistling2:


 I am still getting used to SW products and honestly the only good product I found so far is CHB flat for ceilings. Used to use General Paint's products here in Canada but SW bought GP and now we ended up in this mess. On top of that here all the walls are smooth, on higher end jobs even the ceiling and walls are always in eggshell or satin...


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Go 14 or 18 and I'd go 1/2 white dove or microfiber.


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## pacific paint (Nov 21, 2015)

Paint it dead flat , problem solved


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Gardz is primarily a sealer*



radio11 said:


> I agree with lil--don't see what Gardz or any primer would do at this point. I'm liking the gear/equipment idea as well. I've never used microfiber sleeves on a wall yet, but the short nap ones do a jam up job rolling on satin paint on doors, etc. of course I'm using good, leveling waterbourne paint (BM Advance or Muralo Ultra Flow Satin). I've got 21 doors to do tomorrow with microfiber and/or Red Feather mini roller.
> 
> 
> Radio11, the reason for SEALING, not priming, the surface with Gardz is so that the water in the topcoat of paint won't soak into the surface, allowing you to keep as wet an edge as possible without adding water or an extender like floetrol, which could also be done.
> ...


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

futtyos said:


> radio11 said:
> 
> 
> > I agree with lil--don't see what Gardz or any primer would do at this point. I'm liking the gear/equipment idea as well. I've never used microfiber sleeves on a wall yet, but the short nap ones do a jam up job rolling on satin paint on doors, etc. of course I'm using good, leveling waterbourne paint (BM Advance or Muralo Ultra Flow Satin). I've got 21 doors to do tomorrow with microfiber and/or Red Feather mini roller.
> ...


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## Jaxson34 (Feb 27, 2016)

Thanks everyone who responded. I repainted with flat 2 coats same color to cover the walls. SW provided the paint for me. The home owner is happy so I'm really happy. This wall totaled 7 coats with all walls getting 4. So not so much profit here but I have a happy customer. 
I don't know how I feel about super paint honestly I think 200 works better. I might keep using that as my budget paint choice. 


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Don't be shy*



radio11 said:


> futtyos said:
> 
> 
> > I have used Gardz many times over the years, but only after removing wallpaper (to seal the drywall paper and glue residue). Apparently it has other uses and will certainly keep it in mind when needed. I might even tackle a "higher sheen" wall again someday. I generally shy away due to high chance of disappointment.
> ...


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

futtyos said:


> radio11 said:
> 
> 
> > I use Gardz to avoid disappointment. I can't say that enough. You might try doing just one wall in a room with Gardz where that wall is the only one that will get unmerciful light from windows. You won't be sorry. Also, you will wish that all walls or ceilings that you cut and roll would go as smoothly as it does over Gardz.
> ...


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

radio11 said:


> futtyos said:
> 
> 
> > My quote on the SW Drywall Conditioner is $18. I haven't bought Guardz in a while, but remember paying $40 plus at my local BM dealer. They are expensive and charge almost retail to small contractors (but that's another story altogether). Unfortunately, I didn't have time that day to chase down what big box store carried it. $25 (or less) is a good deal--I need to do my research before I buy again.
> ...


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

You do realize the lines will disappear in about a week or so right?


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