# Mahogany doors



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We are going to Poly 3 Mahogany doors that set the HO back about 20 grand


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

cdpainting said:


> We are going to Poly 3 Mahogany doors that set the HO back about 20 grand


Was it the cut and species of the lumber, primarily, that made them so pricey?

Or are they completely filled with intricate, hand carved Corinthian details or something?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I paint paint said:


> Was it the cut and species of the lumber, primarily, that made them so pricey?
> 
> Or are they completely filled with intricate, hand carved Corinthian details or something?


One door is a raised panel door, the front entry doors are about 8' tall, some details. Solid Mahogany doors are not cheap. I will post pics this afternoon.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

What brand of poly? Ever used Epifanes? Supposed to be good.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

PRC said:


> What brand of poly? Ever used Epifanes? Supposed to be good.


If I am not mistaken, Epifane's polyurethane is a two parter. I've only used their Marine Spar Varnish and it is about the best I have used.

Here's something from their website



> Polyurethane Clear Gloss offers the ultimate in hardness. Its a two-component clear finish based on unsaturated polyesters. Its finish is a ultra high gloss and is completely clear. Due to the hard nature of this finish, Epifanes Polyurethane Clear Gloss is ideally suited for plywoods, coating epoxy resins, saloon tables and cabin soles. Polyurethane Clear Gloss has superior flow, gloss and durability. It provides high U.V. protection and resistance to abrasion, weathering, chemicals and loss of gloss. The outstanding flow characteristics make this two-component varnish highly suitable for both brush and spray applications.
> 
> Polyurethane Clear Satin offers the ultimate in hard, rich satin sheen. Its a two-component clear finish based on unsaturated polyesters. Its recommended for interior use and as a finishing coat over Epifanes Polyurethane Clear Gloss Varnish. Polyurethane Clear Satin has superior flow, gloss and durability. It has excellent resistance to abrasion, weathering, chemicals and loss of gloss. The outstanding flow characteristics make this two-component varnish highly suitable for both brush and spray applications


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

They have several finishes available, both 1 and 2 component. I have no experience with beyond a recommendation from a fella who makes custom hardwood front doors. I'll be give it a try once the opportunity appears.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Why poly? I would shellac them bad boys unless they are exterior...


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

Delta Painting said:


> Why poly? I would shellac them bad boys unless they are exterior...


Given they're front entry doors, I'm assuming they're exterior


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

I'm curious do you (or the HO) know what kind of "mahogany" they are?


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Woodford said:


> Given they're front entry doors, I'm assuming they're exterior


Where did he say front door's?:blink: He said three door's so I am assuming some type of interior application...


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)




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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

As you can see this place is far from being completed. Supposed to have an R value of 100. We did the doors one coat just to protect. The HO wanted Poly. This is the same house that had the Chinese scaffolding I posted pics of.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Delta Painting said:


> Where did he say front door's?:blink: He said three door's so I am assuming some type of interior application...


Post #3:

One door is a raised panel door, the front entry doors are about 8' tall.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

cdpainting said:


> As you can see this place is far from being completed. Supposed to have an R value of 100. We did the doors one coat just to protect. The HO wanted Poly. This is the same house that had the Chinese scaffolding I posted pics of.


Is it designed to be a PassivHaus?


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Gough said:


> Is it designed to be a PassivHaus?


Gesundheit!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Dave,

those are works of art. Not necessarily my style, but they are incredible workmanship, deserving of nothing but the best.

A marine poly for maximum UV protection would be my choice, and since I know Epifane makes superb varnish, I would seriously consider their ploy. Jamestown Distributor sells Epifane if none of the boat yards up there do. 

BTW, do you have a shot of the exterior of the house that shows the doors in context?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Bill, This is the farthest I could get back for a pic yesterday, All kind of heavy equipment moving around. So we had to be careful.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I guess we'll have to wait for further work to be done to see how they fit in - design wise.

I sure hope the money spent will be worth it.

But it looks like they will be shaded and protected from sun, rain, sleet, hail, snow, and pestilence, which will make any coating last longer. 

My preference would be a true oil varnish, but you said the HO wants poly.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

cdpainting said:


> As you can see this place is far from being completed. Supposed to have an R value of 100. We did the doors one coat just to protect. The HO wanted Poly. This is the same house that had the Chinese scaffolding I posted pics of.


I don't think it's possible to actually get an r-100. Even if you stack insulation products it's an assumptive value. 

Foam being the highest value per inch won't get to 100. R-60 is generally accepted to be the highest without excess being considered waste. 
(I.e. 10 coats of paint versus 3. Won't resist fading, etc. anymore with 7 extra layers).

Just thought I'd toss that out.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Side note: awesome doors and finish. Good job CD! What sheen did you use?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

woodcoyote said:


> I don't think it's possible to actually get an r-100. Even if you stack insulation products it's an assumptive value.
> 
> Foam being the highest value per inch won't get to 100. R-60 is generally accepted to be the highest without excess being considered waste.
> (I.e. 10 coats of paint versus 3. Won't resist fading, etc. anymore with 7 extra layers).
> ...


There are a number of approaches to get to R100, mixed systems with spray foam, dense-pack cellulose, and rigid foam. They do require unusual and elaborate wall and attic systems to deal with that thickness of insulation. The real question is when you reach the point of diminishing returns. That first R10 pays for itself quickly, but the last 10, from 90 to 100, not so much.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> I don't think it's possible to actually get an r-100. Even if you stack insulation products it's an assumptive value.
> 
> Foam being the highest value per inch won't get to 100. R-60 is generally accepted to be the highest without excess being considered waste.
> (I.e. 10 coats of paint versus 3. Won't resist fading, etc. anymore with 7 extra layers).
> ...


I'm going by what the GC, HO, builder and designer are all saying. It's a combo of foam, sprayed in paper looking stuff and a couple of other natural insulators.

Supposedly during the winter if power is lost this place should not loose one degree in temp for 5 days. I know all kinds of factors go into this stuff, way beyond my simple mind.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> I'm going by what the GC, HO, builder and designer are all saying. It's a combo of foam, sprayed in paper looking stuff and a couple of other natural insulators.
> 
> Supposedly during the winter if power is lost this place should not loose one degree in temp for 5 days. I know all kinds of factors go into this stuff, way beyond my simple mind.


Not lose 1º in 5 days ?!?!?

Makes me wonder about what it must smell like if no fresh outside air is allowed in.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

daArch said:


> Not lose 1º in 5 days ?!?!?
> 
> Makes me wonder about what it must smell like if no fresh outside air is allowed in.


I will give you a call and have you go check it out. I'm all set lol.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> I will give you a call and have you go check it out. I'm all set lol.


I know YOU are all set, I just wonder about about claims one hears about construction.


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

I wonder if the house is getting the appropriate turns sealed that tight. I think sometimes houses like these are designed by people ignorant of what actually makes a good long term house; seems like they focus on 'green' to the exclusion of good building practices in many cases. Having a house sealed too tight can be a major issue.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Woodford said:


> I wonder if the house is getting the appropriate turns sealed that tight. I think sometimes houses like these are designed by people ignorant of what actually makes a good long term house; seems like they focus on 'green' to the exclusion of good building practices in many cases. Having a house sealed too tight can be a major issue.


Every house done even close to these standards nowadays has to have some sort of controlled ventilation, that's code mandated. Generally, that's some sort of ERV, energy recovery ventilation. One advantage of controlling the entry points of incoming air is that you can ensure that the air isn't flowing over the dead squirrel in the attic or the moldy rim joist.....

As Joe Lstirburek, the dean of building science, says, "Build Tight, ventilate right."


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> Not lose 1º in 5 days ?!?!?
> 
> Makes me wonder about what it must smell like if no fresh outside air is allowed in.


See the above post about ERVs....


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

Gough said:


> Every house done even close to these standards nowadays has to have some sort of controlled ventilation, that's code mandated. Generally, that's some sort of ERV, energy recovery ventilation. One advantage of controlling the entry points of incoming air is that you can ensure that the air isn't flowing over the dead squirrel in the attic or the moldy rim joist.....
> 
> As Joe Lstirburek, the dean of building science, says, "Build Tight, ventilate right."


Y'know, you say that, but then I go out and look at a house with no vents at all, or nothing but ridge vents, or nothing but center vent. We all know it _should_ be done like you say, but it rarely seems to be the case. I'd estimate easily one out of every two houses is improperly ventilated.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Woodford said:


> Y'know, you say that, but then I go out and look at a house with no vents at all, or nothing but ridge vents, or nothing but center vent. We all know it _should_ be done like you say, but it rarely seems to be the case. I'd estimate easily one out of every two houses is improperly ventilated.


Those are typically attic vents, which is a different issue.. The supply/outlets for ERV and other ventilation for habitable space are different critters. Often, they are PVC pipe, like the inlet/exhaust for high-efficiency furnaces. The low-tech version utilizes the exhaust fan system from the kitchen and bathrooms.

That's not to say that there aren't builders skirting the code issue.


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

Gough said:


> Those are typically attic vents, which is a different issue.. The supply/outlets for ERV and other ventilation for habitable space are different critters. Often, they are PVC pipe, like the inlet/exhaust for high-efficiency furnaces. The low-tech version utilizes the exhaust fan system from the kitchen and bathrooms.
> 
> That's not to say that there aren't builders skirting the code issue.


Aye, I just mean in general; people don't understand ventilation or follow code on it. We don't do enough with the insanely insulated houses for me to know much about the other, but I'd be shocked if they were any better about that than they are about attic ventilation.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Woodford said:


> Aye, I just mean in general; people don't understand ventilation or follow code on it. We don't do enough with the insanely insulated houses for me to know much about the other, but I'd be shocked if they were any better about that than they are about attic ventilation.


The builders and architects I know who are doing these types of projects, Net-Zero, PassivHaus, usw., are not your average bears. At least the ones I know are well-trained, knowledgeable, and conscientious. 

The guys doings LEEDS, not so much.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Gough said:


> There are a number of approaches to get to R100, mixed systems with spray foam, dense-pack cellulose, and rigid foam. They do require unusual and elaborate wall and attic systems to deal with that thickness of insulation. The real question is when you reach the point of diminishing returns. That first R10 pays for itself quickly, but the last 10, from 90 to 100, not so much.



Yeah I agree. It would have to be a tiered aproach like I had originally thought. But r-100 can't really be achieved with 1 product (i.e. blown fiberglass). 

In most super tight green homes they have fresh air intake to deal with over sealing and fresh air issues. IF* the builder/designers have a brain, as others have said.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Gough said:


> See the above post about ERVs....


Exactly, the house with proper ventilation is bringing in fresh air by mechanical means, ie using power.

The comment I made was in response to the house not losing a degree in five days during a winter power outage - no fresh air being brought into the house


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

They got ripped a new one if they paid 20k for those doors. You could make them out of wood from another planet and they wouldn't be that expensive.

Those doors were probably around 6-8k at the most.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

straight_lines said:


> They got ripped a new one if they paid 20k for those doors. You could make them out of wood from another planet and they wouldn't be that expensive.
> 
> Those doors were probably around 6-8k at the most.


They were around 12 grand and the basement door is about 6-8 grand. I have no clue if this is the real cost or bumped up by the GC. All I know is they are Mahogany and we put a Poly on them. other wise my lips are sealed :whistling2:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> They got ripped a new one if they paid 20k for those doors. You could make them out of wood from another planet and they wouldn't be that expensive.
> 
> Those doors were probably around 6-8k at the most.





cdpainting said:


> They were around 12 grand and the basement door is about 6-8 grand. I have no clue if this is the real cost or bumped up by the GC. All I know is they are Mahogany and we put a Poly on them. other wise my lips are sealed :whistling2:


That hand painted embroidered silk scenic with which I had "issues" cost the HO $15,000, yet the manufacturer had charged the architect $6,750


Mark-up? What mark-up?


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## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

I dunno, I've seen plenty of expensive doors go out here. Add enough options and even if it's *not* an expensive wood you're still running 10,000 or more.


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