# Festool Users



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Sorry bout this...

I have 3 dust sensitive (high end residential) projects in the pipeline. I will be buying a Festool set up this week.... I cannot avoid it anymore. I have looked all of them and am really undecided on what models are best. I think I can afford 2 sanders and one vac... for now. I don't require Hepa for lead. Your help would be appreciated. Is a shop vac going to cut it with one of these for the time being?

I thought if I go round orbital, I can at least use stock pads in a pinch if I run out. I run 2 Dewalt 5" orbitals, 2 4" square ones (collect dust mostly) and have a delta sander but rarely use it, mostly because I just hand finish.

Main Applications

Cabinet doors
Sanding raw pine for jambs, window fillers, 
Hardwood Stair treads and landing also edging on hardwood floors
Wood Exterior Doors, that cannot be removed and swing in
General Wall, patches and deck sanding
Colonial Doors, Casings

RO or ETS - 5" of 6"?

DX or LX ? 
Someone mentioned a sanding sponge for these?

26 or 32

Can/ Do you vacuum floors with it


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

I would invest in an extractor before buying two sanders. Its kind of the main reason the system is 'dustless'. One sander and extractor. 

I was thinking about upgrading mine (have a CT26)....if you are interested we can explore the idea of buying mine used?

Lets chat.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

The vacuum is wicked powerful. I don't have any festool random Orbitals so I can't comment. After the initial sticker shock, you will be amazed.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

5" ets for drywall and ro90 for window and door frames.

get a mini or midi which is easiest to carry around from site to site.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm sure you could rig a regular shop vac to work in the short term. But I really think you will see the real benefit of the sanders with the Festool extractor. The ability to fine tune/adjust the amount of suction for each particular sander until it "floats" is one of the reasons I like the system.

As a side note, Yesterday I had a small 6'x6' enclosed porch floor to stain. My truck was really loaded, so I decided to leave my CT26 extractor behind and just go solo with my RO125. Really wished that I had made the room in the van. Sawdust everywhere, and all over me. I got a real understanding of the benefits of the system, and also my need for a smaller extractor for those little jobs.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

The midi extractor is a perfect fit for us. Large enough to handle the load and small/light enough to lug around(in & out of the truck) day after day. I would not think of going larger for residential repaint work. I really like the RTS 400 for drywall patches. Light enough to use over your head for a while as necessary as well. We use the 1/2 sheet RS2E for full walls. It's a heavy sander, but makes short work of problem surfaces.I like the rectangular shape(s) for walls-gets right up to and into the corners. Last week I made a piece of 36 grit(not festool paper) to knock down a textured wall. Worked very well.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Jeff

CtMidi
Ro125
Rts or Dts400

This setup would do all of what you are describing. quite comfortably, along with a stock of granat abrasives.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Thanks 2 x Paul(s), Xmark, Cliff and Scott.

I am officially sick of dust. We cut a pile of MDF trim today! I am getting tired of dusting base and clean up's as well. The revenue from the next few applications will just cover this cost so I think I will just do it. Will my existing shop vac pole fit for clean ups?

The package I want will set me back about 1240, plus abrasives and filter bags. 

CT MIDI
ETS 125
RTS 400

What grit/ style are you using for drywall patches, power sanding drywall will be foreign to me!


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Thanks 2 x Paul(s), Xmark, Cliff and Scott.
> 
> I am officially sick of dust. We cut a pile of MDF trim today! I am getting tired of dusting base and clean up's as well. The revenue from the next few applications will just cover this cost so I think I will just do it. Will my existing shop vac pole fit for clean ups?
> 
> ...


180/220 on drywall with either of those machines. Turn the extraction down to reduce chatter.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> The package I want will set me back about 1240, plus abrasives and filter bags.
> 
> CT MIDI
> ETS 125
> ...


I like my ETS 125 on small drywall patches, and usually go with Brilliant 120. I know Scott really likes the Granat, and I bought some with my DTS 400. But I can't say that I've used it enough to tell if there's any difference. 

Here's me using my ETS 125 for the very first time.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Thanks 2 x Paul(s), Xmark, Cliff and Scott.
> 
> I am officially sick of dust. We cut a pile of MDF trim today! I am getting tired of dusting base and clean up's as well. The revenue from the next few applications will just cover this cost so I think I will just do it. Will my existing shop vac pole fit for clean ups?
> 
> ...


Jeff, those sanders are similar. 

I agree with Scotts suggestion with the Ro125 (or a RO90) and a RTS 400. 
Lots of diversity in these two sanders.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Thanks 2 x Paul(s), Xmark, Cliff and Scott.
> 
> I am officially sick of dust. We cut a pile of MDF trim today! I am getting tired of dusting base and clean up's as well. The revenue from the next few applications will just cover this cost so I think I will just do it. Will my existing shop vac pole fit for clean ups?
> 
> ...


Sounds like an excuse to buy a Kapex. 

Nice set up. 

Paul summed it up well. Being able to control the speed of the sander and the suction on the vac makes a big difference over a cheaper shop vac. 

What type of mud are you using? Hot mud? lite premixed?

I have recently been pulling the ets 150 out.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Jeff, those sanders are similar.
> 
> I agree with Scotts suggestion with the Ro125 (or a RO90) and a RTS 400.
> Lots of diversity in these two sanders.


Opps...I meant ro125


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Opps...I meant125


RO125 & ETS125 use the exact same size paper. Something to consider when starting out.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

In repaints, dents dings 20 min or drydex. Patches sometimes all "hot mud" or lightweight premix.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I typically use 180 or 150 for harder muds. Also I use Granat.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> RO125 & ETS125 use the exact same size paper. Something to consider when starting out.



That is why I started my collection with those two.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

DeanV said:


> That is why I started my collection with those two.


Jeff....note the word "collection". 

.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

DeanV said:


> That is why I started my collection with those two.


he needs to sand door jams,stairs and other smaller stuff.that's why i recommended the ets 125 and ro90.with the ro90 you have different options as well with the delta head.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

RO 90 is very nice as well. A good recommendation.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

I have two Festool rotex sanders and festool vacuum attachment for sanding weatherboards. I use the disposable paper bags in case of Lead dust. My sanders have been serviced a few times as give them a hard time all day long.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

The mirka ceros had been out through the test.
Does look brand new anymore . Been sanding rough cedar with it for two days . Seems to get pretty hot on the hands after awhile . But maybe being in Texas has something to do with it. Back to festool love the ets and RO 90 . I sell better finishes when sanding becomes a fun thing to do .


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## Sean Ackerman (Apr 3, 2012)

Go with the midi, which it seems like all have recommended. About 1.5" taller but a huge increase in capacity for only a few more bucks.

Consider one sander for the time being, likely an RO 125 and pair it with an ETS later as the paper will be interchangeable. My main reason here? Buy a second extractor, a CT 26 or 36 for larger jobs or shop stuff, when you get the second sander. This way you're ensuring you'll get 10% off each vacuum with each order.

Shop smart.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

I hate the insincere salesmanship that we often get in here. yeah just buy 2 festool vacs. right,gotcha,smart shopping!!!


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## Sean Ackerman (Apr 3, 2012)

Xmark said:


> I hate the insincere salesmanship that we often get in here. yeah just buy 2 festool vacs. right,gotcha,smart shopping!!!


Actually not insincere at all Mark. Ask most Festool users, they have two vacs. A mobile vac (midi or mini) and a larger vac for bigger jobs or shop use (26 or 36).

Looking forward, buying smarter, rather than just diving in is what was recommended. This SAVES the customer money. I recommended to buy one sander and one vacuum when the customer was looking to buy TWO sanders and one vacuum. My recommendation to spend less money up front and use that money more wisely down the line seemed like I may have had an agenda to you?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I am all about dropping another gnote to save $100.....NOT!

Why not offer incentives to buy sustainers and additional sanders with initial purchase. I could teach the Germans a thing or two about packaging!

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Sean Ackerman (Apr 3, 2012)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I am all about dropping another gnote to save $100.....NOT!
> 
> Why not offer incentives to buy sustainers and additional sanders with initial purchase. I could teach the Germans a thing or two about packaging!
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


:thumbup: Never recommended spending 'nother thousand bucks  Recommended he put his money away now, only buy one sander, and if in the future he considers expanding his range to couple his tool purchase with a second vac.

In short, I recommended putting a couple hundred bucks in his pocket that he was considering spending. Not too sure where you came up with the idea I was pushing that he should spend another k.... but ya, sure, that'd be nice! But for all intensive purposes, buy one for sander for the job mentioned here. An RO 125 or 90 (would take much longer) will work and are light enough for some small overhead work or wall work.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Sean Ackerman said:


> :thumbup: Never recommended spending 'nother thousand bucks  Recommended he put his money away now, only buy one sander, and if in the future he considers expanding his range to couple his tool purchase with a second vac.
> 
> In short, I recommended putting a couple hundred bucks in his pocket that he was considering spending. Not too sure where you came up with the idea I was pushing that he should spend another k.... but ya, sure, that'd be nice! But for all intensive purposes, buy one for sander for the job mentioned here. An RO 125 or 90 (would take much longer) will work and are light enough for some small overhead work or wall work.


I need 2 sanders now. Read the OP.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Sean Ackerman (Apr 3, 2012)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I need 2 sanders now. Read the OP.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


Ah! Forgive me, but I just reread the OP again and I only saw the point of buying two sanders because you CAN afford it now. Is there another reason right now to buy'em other than the cash being available? Tight spaces confined by height, corners, louvres, etc an issue?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

You are making me not want to do business with Festool.

I really don't want to buy another vacuum or sander to begin with. I have plenty of shop vac's and enough sanders to carry me through these applications. A zip wall would suffice.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> You are making me not want to do business with Festool.
> 
> I really don't want to buy another vacuum or sander to begin with. I have plenty of shop vac's and enough sanders to carry me through these applications. A zip wall would suffice.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


A zipwall will save a lot of money. 

Sean from the Tool Nut is used to dealing with Festool addicts so in all reality he seemed to be trying to slow your roll. I am sure he did not mean it the way it is being read as he sells all brands of tools, also to add he has a good reputation. jmo.

Like others I think a MIDI is a good size and to add to Sean's reasoning of thought I have a 26 and can see the usefulness of a MIDI and I believe Paul made the same point above and I understand you are not wanting to buy two Extractors so choose wisely so you do not have to, consider bag costs, space in the van and overall need. 

Speaking from my own experience your other shop vacs are not on the same level, they are louder, shoot dust out the exhaust port, lack the dialing in features, and yes you can have 4 or 5 of them for the price of one CT 26 but are really not comparable in any way. 

I was looking at the Dustless stuff at SW yesterday and the price on the shelf was higher than a CT 26. 

Also to answer your other question yes I use mine as a vacuum all the time but the thing about Festool is the accessories cost. I use a Tradesman Cleaning Kit and it comes with the bigger hose, and cleaning tools and mine gets used on pretty much every job.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

It's like a Dyson on steroids. You can't appriciate the versatility and power of these vacuums. It sucks the metaphorical chrome off a bumper in terms of total dust extraction.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> I was looking at the Dustless stuff at SW yesterday and the price on the shelf was higher than a CT 26.


And that's exactly how I got into Festool. I had been looking around at HEPA vacs for RRP work, and had pretty much settled on the Dustless. About that time I was made aware through PT that Festool also had HEPA extractors. 

I was already aware of how the there system worked. Being on numerous job sites I'd seen carpenters using them with various saws, but never finish sanders. I figured if I was going to spend that kind of coin on a HEPA vac, might as well get one that I can use for tasks other than RRP work.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I don't require Hepa for lead. Your help would be appreciated. Is a shop vac going to cut it with one of these for the time being?


You can just use your shopvac, but get and fine filter and dust bag...they will stay clean if you use this...

Dust Deputy deluxe






They also make one that attaches to the festool extractors, looks and attaches like a systainer, called The Ultimate Dust Deputy! Then you only need to buy the Mini because the deputy has a 9 gallon capacity. Also no more buying expensive bags or filters. You can use cheap trash bags in the deputy.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

never used a feestool, am doing a lot of wood work and doors now, and am gertting a lot of small triangles on the surface of the wood with orbitals, any suggestions?


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Finn said:


> never used a feestool, am doing a lot of wood work and doors now, and am gertting a lot of small triangles on the surface of the wood with orbitals, any suggestions?


Pony Up!!


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

that dust deputy looks like a nice attachment for shop work but it doesn't look like something you want to take from job to job. I agree that bags are expensive and filters are very expensive. if you have that much to clean off floors then perhaps buying a cheap shop vac is the better solution.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Xmark said:


> that dust deputy looks like a nice attachment for shop work but it doesn't look like something you want to take from job to job. I agree that bags are expensive and filters are very expensive. if you have that much to clean off floors then perhaps buying a cheap shop vac is the better solution.


I dont think it would be that big of deal to move around, but i guess it depends on what type jobs you have too! It's light, and would make the CT Mini easier to move around. You would never lose any suction power. 

Festool should make this standard as a systainer!


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Finn said:


> never used a feestool, am doing a lot of wood work and doors now, and am gertting a lot of small triangles on the surface of the wood with orbitals, any suggestions?


Could be a few things such as speed of the sander, grit, maybe the pad is damaged or pressing to hard on the pad. Hard to say.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> View attachment 11993
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


Sweet! Make sure to let us know what you think.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I bought the ETS 125 and CT 26, some bags and a few boxes of abrasives. I took the ETS due to weight and 2mm range (drywall patches testing) for the time being. The store is 2 hours away (Lee Valley). I have a delta sander that I can hook up to the 26 for Monday.

Sorry P&H, I wanted new and the 30 day option. I decided on the 26 due size and ability to to add options.


I did a quick test tonight on my soon to be stained deck railing. There is no dust, thats for sure. I have to say my Dewalt seems faster at material removal. It (125) does not seem to spin very fast at all, compared to the yellow beast.

I found a lot of chatter/ bounce/ vibration and tried to slow the vac and sander down. As the sanding disc wore, it got better, not great. It was a crowned 2x6 and maybe a softer base is needed? It got dark so I only played for 5 mins or so. I may vid tomorrow.

I may be heading back on Thursday for the RO 90, since it has a guard and delta adapter. 

The extracter is great, love the systainers.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I did a quick test tonight on my soon to be stained deck railing. There is no dust, thats for sure. I have to say my Dewalt seems faster at material removal. It (125) does not seem to spin very fast at all, compared to the yellow beast.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


I have found with the 125 ets that if the suction is to high you almost have to pull the sander up to speed the pad up but after you play with it and see where it works best for you it should be good.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I bought the ETS 125 and CT 26, some bags and a few boxes of abrasives. I took the ETS due to weight and 2mm range (drywall patches testing) for the time being. The store is 2 hours away (Lee Valley). I have a delta sander that I can hook up to the 26 for Monday.
> 
> Sorry P&H, I wanted new and the 30 day option. I decided on the 26 due size and ability to to add options.
> 
> ...


For me, a lot of chatter usually ends up wi the sander at higher speeds and turning down the vac. But, I tend to almost always leave variable sanders on the top couple numbers, might just be me though.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

The ets 125 is more like a finish sander , with lower abrasives like 80 grit . Or 120 you can remove some stock . I mainly used that for flats and doors . Drywall repairs it's rocks . We are talking no dust what so ever. The mirka ceros kick alittle dust off. But so much faster . Just 
Started using the mirka here's the first thing I tried. 









Paneling wall liquid nail !! Eeek 
Send the finish picture tomorrow but that wall came out smooth .


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

DeanV said:


> For me, a lot of chatter usually ends up wi the sander at higher speeds and turning down the vac. But, I tend to almost always leave variable sanders on the top couple numbers, might just be me though.


 Yes:yes:


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

So if I wanted a sander that can do the detail in the panels, as well as the face of the doors here, to remove original varnish and stain back to the wood, what woukd you recommend?


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

Finn said:


> View attachment 12013
> 
> 
> So if I wanted a sander that can do the detail in the panels, as well as the face of the doors here, to remove original varnish and stain back to the wood, what woukd you recommend?


How about this...










http://www.festoolusa.com/products/specialty-sanders/ls-130-eq-linear-sander-567852.html


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

Finn said:


> View attachment 12013
> 
> 
> So if I wanted a sander that can do the detail in the panels, as well as the face of the doors here, to remove original varnish and stain back to the wood, what woukd you recommend?


...with some of these attachments...


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

doctors11 said:


> How about this...
> 
> http://www.festoolusa.com/products/specialty-sanders/ls-130-eq-linear-sander-567852.html


I'd pair that with an RO-90. Use it to make quick work of the flats.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

HeadHoncho said:


> I'd pair that with an RO-90. Use it to make quick work of the flats.


The 90 with dual stacked interface pads is also effective in door panels and also in deeper profiles such as crown. With the delta attachment to probe into corners.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

vermontpainter said:


> The 90 with dual stacked interface pads is also effective in door panels and also in deeper profiles such as crown. With the delta attachment to probe into corners.


 yeah that ro90 is a very versatile sander. love that delta attachment.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Xmark said:


> yeah that ro90 is a very versatile sander. love that delta attachment.


Stacking interface pads is a good option for sanding crown for people who have a 90 but not a 130. And yes, the delta is handy.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I bought the ETS 125 and CT 26, some bags and a few boxes of abrasives. I took the ETS due to weight and 2mm range (drywall patches testing) for the time being. The store is 2 hours away (Lee Valley). I have a delta sander that I can hook up to the 26 for Monday.
> 
> Sorry P&H, I wanted new and the 30 day option. I decided on the 26 due size and ability to to add options.
> 
> ...


Good on ya Jeff!

I would have gone new also. 

I think what you will find is at the moment it's kind of a cool sander that you aren't sure is worth it. I think and hope you discover the beauty is in the details...the systainers and how they work together kicks! It's easier to carry, its quiet, its on steroids (thanks Parra), easy to maintain, hooks up easy, being able to control suction and the speed of the sander and the abrasive is a almost nerdy learning curve.

Scott said it best....'let it do the work'. 


.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Remember that the ETS 125 is really a finish sander, with a fine orbit. It is not designed for rapid removal.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> The 90 with dual stacked interface pads is also effective in door panels and also in deeper profiles such as crown. With the delta attachment to probe into corners.


What grit do you use and do you keep it off the corners/edges? What pad do you use, super soft-soft-medium?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

HeadHoncho said:


> What grit do you use and do you keep it off the corners/edges? What pad do you use, super soft-soft-medium?


Google Festool interface pads, they are a thicker soft pad for contours for the RO 90,125,150 sanders.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> Google Festool interface pads, they are a thicker soft pad for contours for the RO 90,125,150 sanders.


I know what they are, but it still doesn't answer my questions. I have contours with curves and sharp edges that can't be rounded over. 

I hand scrape woodwork and curious to if the interface pad would do well with those contours? All the brochures say for fine finish, 80-100grit isn't really fine finish.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

doctors11 said:


> How about this...
> 
> http://www.festoolusa.com/products/specialty-sanders/ls-130-eq-linear-sander-567852.html


Yes
I bought the ro 90 along with a hepa mini and im going down this morning ti buy that very sander, I stripped both doors yesterday in 1 hour wooo hoooo


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Finn said:


> Yes
> I bought the ro 90 along with a hepa mini and im going down this morning ti buy that very sander, I stripped both doors yesterday in 1 hour wooo hoooo


Can you briefly explain the steps and paper you used to strip the door? Thanks!

Ex:
Flats
1. Soft pad, 80 granat, aggressive mode
2. Soft pad, 120 granat, random orbital

Contours
1. Soft pad w/interface pad, 100 granat, random orbital


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

HeadHoncho said:


> Can you briefly explain the steps and paper you used to strip the door? Thanks!
> 
> Ex:
> Flats
> ...


I dont know tne exact type of pad, I think it is soft,









I used a p120 granat, in direct mode










For the face of the doors, as for the contours and grooves, well thats what I bought the ls 130 eq for, it comes with to fittings a flat and and triangle type ,
However to to the contours within the panels I needed another fitting specifically for that, which I have no doubt would have done the job nicely, to make do I am just using the corner attachment on my ro 90 









Its not ideal but it will do for today until I get attachnent elsewhere.

Due to the sander being orbital it has been easy to use, this is my first time using an orbital and this machine is very forgiving. Hope tbis helps mate.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

HeadHoncho said:


> What grit do you use and do you keep it off the corners/edges? What pad do you use, super soft-soft-medium?


Hey Troy

Whatever stock round pad you have is fine, these attach and stack on that and whatever abrasive grit you want to use attaches to this stack. The interface pads are super cushy to conform to shapes. However, its not a simple matter of squishing it into a profile and pulling the trigger. Because the stacked pads are so thick and cushy, you can use an edge (about the outer 1/3) of the pad surface with control. It does take some practice to get the feel for having something like that on a sander. And I will tell you that this configuration is too wobbly to take out onto flat stock surfaces, but its easy to rip them off (velcro) and stick an abrasive on your base pad. 

The attached pic shows this set with 100g for sanding nail hole filler in crown profile. You can put whatever grit you want on there and use it at whatever in between coat stage you want, if you get the feel for it. You can definitely round over edges or flatten beads if you dont have the technique down, but it is a pretty quick curve. We have even cut vlies and put it on this setup. 

Hope this helps.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

What about finish sanding ? What would you reccommend ?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Finn said:


> What about finish sanding ? What would you reccommend ?


Do you mean for a sander or abrasive grit, or...? "Finish sanding" is a subjective term, please clarify.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> Hey Troy
> Hope this helps.


Yes this helps me. I bought a interface pad this morning and played with it on some beams I scraped. It seemed to do a good job and aggressive mode was easier to control. I used 100 granat but probably would have got better results with 80 but woodcraft was out. Almost got rubin.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

vermontpainter said:


> Do you mean for a sander or abrasive grit, or...? "Finish sanding" is a subjective term, please clarify.



Finish sanding , does festool have a specfic sander for finishing?

Cheers,


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

That stacking idea is smart!


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Finn said:


> Finish sanding , does festool have a specfic sander for finishing?
> 
> Cheers,


Yes, several. The ones I find to be most practical are the ets125, rts 400 and dts400. These are good for trim, doors, cabinets. It is a matter of shape and size, whether you want round, rectangular or triangular. One thing I like is that all three of these are equally competent on wood or wall.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Very nice Scott , gangster in fact ! Question you used the soft interfaced pads by festool ? 
I have the soft pad . I used the 90 for cabinets and such . Looking for your review on the ceros . 
Roto 90 is a must have if your into festool stuff. 
That new light looks cool too.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Very nice Scott , gangster in fact ! Question you used the soft interfaced pads by festool ?
> I have the soft pad . I used the 90 for cabinets and such . Looking for your review on the ceros .
> Roto 90 is a must have if your into festool stuff.
> That new light looks cool too.


Haha Terry. The interface is a soft cushion that goes between whatever round pad you are running and the abrasive. The part # is 497-481, just so that you can distinguish it from the other pads that are available. They only offer one model of the interface pad and it is like a soft a foam. The picture I posted earlier in the thread shows a stack of 2 Festool interface pads. 

I have no plans to review the Ceros. I have demo-ed it. It does have some pretty significant pros and cons, but I personally don't find enough unique about it to justify putting the time into it. The cons slightly outweigh the pros for me. Jp has reviewed it and loves it, as do others. It is definitely better than most of the garden variety orbitals, but comes at a price point that really calls for a look at value, where I guess it falls slightly short for me. 

I agree on the 90, its capable of so many task solutions and so easy to live with. The light is great as well.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

I am a tool junkie , it was one those spontaneous buys . I see why JP loves it. It's hands down just amazing . The d/c transformer thing sucks . The back up pads don't seem to last that long . 
36 a pop for those !!! I figured I would get better dust control with the ceros i get better sanding than the ets 125 . The ceros kicks some dust . 
Sanding repainted doors cabinets is where this thing will makes it money . Walls too. 
Plantex is too big for drywall repairs . 
I am done buying stuff .


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Starting to like mine now. Sanded smooth doors with 180, 60 feet of a 1" mdf chamfer profile with 80, in no time with no dust. The chamfer was over head and there wad some small pieces falling down (into my eye....)¡

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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

I just tell home owners i am 95 percent dust free .


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Here I am strip sanding an oak paneled door that was improperly finished originally. Some idiot sprayed HB lacquer on this, then someone came back with a marine varnish! I'm using a Festool RO 90 with a hard pad, aggressive mode, and 80 grit brilliant 2 paper because my local Woodcraft store has a horrible selection of paper...Yes I did get on to them so they ordered more!

The 80 grit seemed to be the right grit for this job, take off was at a decent rate while maintaining a semi-smooth finish.

My only problem is that 1 paper of the brilliant 2 only last for about 1 square foot and then it stops cutting well. Is this normal or is the hard pad or the paper the culprit? I wanted granat but woodcraft was out.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I am triming out a NC and I am using my ETS to scribe, sand outside corner bead	(excess mud) to fit mitres, inside angles, and sanding copes to fit tighter.

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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

no airbourne, just fallout. Faster than a rasp or chisel!

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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Cool stuff. Its pretty handy to be able to do stuff like that dust free.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

Folks
Not havin a good week! So welcome to my pity party! I used my new festool set up for the first time on a set of double exterior doors, i finished tbem a few days ago snd went back today to get the job signed off. As i was walking up the path to this top end residential home, what i seen before me almost made my heart stop. Lots of semi circle indents on the face of the door! It was my first time using an orbital sander, i have to redo the doors, looks like i need to learn how to use an orbital. The HO did not undeerstand what i was showing them, i had to convince them to let me redo the doors, they think im a bit weird. The finish is not even a week old its oil base,spar 3 coats over a conditioner and stain. What grit or paper should i use to sand this?


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## dosgris (Jan 6, 2008)

oops wrong post


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

Finn said:


> Folks
> Not havin a good week! So welcome to my pity party! I used my new festool set up for the first time on a set of double exterior doors, i finished tbem a few days ago snd went back today to get the job signed off. As i was walking up the path to this top end residential home, what i seen before me almost made my heart stop. Lots of semi circle indents on the face of the door! It was my first time using an orbital sander, i have to redo the doors, looks like i need to learn how to use an orbital. The HO did not undeerstand what i was showing them, i had to convince them to let me redo the doors, they think im a bit weird. The finish is not even a week old its oil base,spar 3 coats over a conditioner and stain. What grit or paper should i use to sand this?


I'm far from an expert on this but I'll relate a situation I had about three years ago. I was in the middle of an interior repaint when the customer asked if I could restore the top of a small table they had. It had a stain and poly finish and the edges had a simple radius profile. I took it home and sanded it to bare wood (40, 80, 120, 150 and 220 grit), removed the dust, and applied an oil Zar stain. It looked beautiful. Left it alone for about three hours. When I returned and looked closely it was covered with sander swirl marks.
Panicking I hit Google and read a bunch of woodworking sites on the subject and learned two important things. First is after final sanding, wipe the wood surface with mineral spirits (or water if your stain will be waterbased). It will remove any dust your vac didn't get, but more importantly it will highlight all the swirl marks left by your sander. Lightly circle the areas with pencil, let dry and resand.
Secondly many wookworkers, after sanding to 220 with their orbitals, then use a block sander with 220, lightly marking the whole surface with pencil, and then sand in the direction of the grain by hand until all the pencil marks are gone. Then check by wetting and resanding as needed. 
I've used this technique alot since then and have never had another problem.
Good luck.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Finn said:


> Folks
> Not havin a good week! So welcome to my pity party! I used my new festool set up for the first time on a set of double exterior doors, i finished tbem a few days ago snd went back today to get the job signed off. As i was walking up the path to this top end residential home, what i seen before me almost made my heart stop. Lots of semi circle indents on the face of the door! It was my first time using an orbital sander, i have to redo the doors, looks like i need to learn how to use an orbital. The HO did not undeerstand what i was showing them, i had to convince them to let me redo the doors, they think im a bit weird. The finish is not even a week old its oil base,spar 3 coats over a conditioner and stain. What grit or paper should i use to sand this?


 
For finish (stain and varnish) work, you want to move the sander at 1" per second and no faster. This will get rid of the swirl marks. It is hard to avoid movin that sucker fast! Make sure you are not jumping grits to fast (like 80 to 150:no


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

A lot of it depends on the wood, soft wood like pine wants to swirl more than hard wood it seems.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

The indents could be from using a soft pad compared to a hard pad, or pushing too hard!


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