# Thick primer to cover oak grain



## George Escamilla

Any recommendations on a primer to shoot over previously stained and lacquered cabinets? They are oak and the homeowner prefers that the thick grain be sealed and smooth. I'm thinking a couple coats of primer(sprayed on) then a good sanding can achieve the look she wants. So what's the best thick primer that sticks and sands well? Thanks 


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## Stonehampaintdept

George Escamilla said:


> Any recommendations on a primer to shoot over previously stained and lacquered cabinets? They are oak and the homeowner prefers that the thick grain be sealed and smooth. I'm thinking a couple coats of primer(sprayed on) then a good sanding can achieve the look she wants. So what's the best thick primer that sticks and sands well? Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


Short of using some good ole lead paint left over from 4 decades ago, if you want thick stuff. Grip Coat, Stix, UMA are all very good bonding primers. Zero Hiding properties, thats not what they're meant for. Or a good 100% acrylic preceeded by some sanding. Or use an oil primer, you got a number of ways you can go. Their have been a few threads in the recent past on cabinets, prep and finishing. Check them out with the search tab on upper right.


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## Toolnut

What about a good ole grain filler, sand, prime, and paint


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## Epoxy Pro

If you use an oil primer you may need 3-4 coats to fill the grains. Toolnut has a better solution.


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## Boco

I used the triple thick peel stop primer from zinzer today It didnt really hide all the crows feet and paint cracking, but after very light skimming with a wood filler it came out pretty sweet. Its actually something I will be do more of for my trouble areas on exterior repaints. I just like the way it blended in after sanding with an orbital. Its thick.


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## slinger58

George Escamilla said:


> Any recommendations on a primer to shoot over previously stained and lacquered cabinets? They are oak and the homeowner prefers that the thick grain be sealed and smooth. I'm thinking a couple coats of primer(sprayed on) then a good sanding can achieve the look she wants. So what's the best thick primer that sticks and sands well? Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


If she really wants smooth, I'd say you're going to have do a grain-filling process. There's kinda no way around it with oak, IMO.


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## jw129943

From my experience, grain filler is the best option for filling the grain in oak. I haven't found a product that I'm really happy with so far, and it's definitely a lot of extra work to get a smooth look. I have seen Bondo wood filler used for this, but haven't yet tried it myself. It's on my list to try, as I'm working with some oak cabinets from my own garage now. Might as well experiment while I'm at it.


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## George Escamilla

Thanks guys. I'm grateful for each of your responses. 


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## journeymanPainter

The guys are right you'll need to use grain filler, but you'll also need to use an oil based primer to a) kill any and all oils inside the wood, and lacquer/stain resins and b) hiding/bonding power for your finish

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## Gough

Not a sprayable product, but Swedish putty is the way to go.


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## journeymanPainter

Gough said:


> Not a sprayable product, but Swedish putty is the way to go.


Just mix it with a little water, use a 421, and blast away 

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## mudbone

Had a client tell me recently that lowes carried a ptimer that fills in the grain! Told her to find out the name of it and I would happily come and mak a bid for her. Been 6 months :whistling2:


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## Schmidt & Co.

mudbone said:


> Had a client tell me recently that lowes carried a ptimer that fills in the grain! Told her to find out the name of it and I would happily come and mak a bid for her. Been 6 months :whistling2:


I remember that thread, and your the first one I thought of when this thread came up. Was wondering how that turned out,


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## Schmidt & Co.

Gough said:


> Not a sprayable product, but Swedish putty is the way to go.


Or the OP can also Google the other name it goes by,_ Brushing putty_.


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## Tonyg

I don't have a FPOE supplier nearby. I'm sure I could order it online but what about using something like the MH Ready Patch as a substitute. I remember reading on the Traditional Painter blogs Ready Patch used as an alternative. Would the Swedish Putty be that much different/noticeable?


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## Lambrecht

Why not just replace the doors with new ones. The cost of priming, filling, re-priming, sanding in between each step then applying 2 topcoat then re- installing is much more expensive than replacing with pre-primed new doors.


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## Gough

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Or the OP can also Google the other name it goes by,_ Swedish putty_.


????????


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## Gough

journeymanPainter said:


> Just mix it with a little water, use a 421, and blast away
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


Make your own water-thinned oil?? Pretty radical.:whistling2:


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## Gough

Tonyg said:


> I don't have a FPOE supplier nearby. I'm sure I could order it online but what about using something like the MH Ready Patch as a substitute. I remember reading on the Traditional Painter blogs Ready Patch used as an alternative. Would the Swedish Putty be that much different/noticeable?


This has been covered before but you can make your own: oil-based enamel undercoater + whiting (chalk).


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## Schmidt & Co.

Gough said:


> ????????


I meant to say BRUSHING putty. 

It was early, hadn't had my coffee yet.


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## slinger58

Tonyg said:


> I don't have a FPOE supplier nearby. I'm sure I could order it online but what about using something like the MH Ready Patch as a substitute. I remember reading on the Traditional Painter blogs Ready Patch used as an alternative. Would the Swedish Putty be that much different/noticeable?


I used the MH Ready Patch filling oak plywood just last year and it worked fine. 

Pulled tight, two coats. Sanded well and finished with primer and 2 coats finish.


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## Painter One

I have used some of that stuff they say is Ventitian plaster, nonshrink filler with water added, sheetrock mud, b ut I try to get out of doing it by giving them a high hourly rate.


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## mudbone

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I remember that thread, and your the first one I thought of when this thread came up. Was wondering how that turned out,


Never heard another word!


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## propainterJ

Nothings going to totally hide Oak grain under paint.

You can fill in all the snail trails you want,that oak look aint going away.

Why do none of you use lacquer undercoat?

Stuff dries right now,sands like a dream,all I ever hear about in here is Oil or Shellac.

Just curious,


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## Criard

I would try the Zinnser Odorless oil primer, green can. 

People here seem to love CoverStain, but Odorless has a good 20% more solids in it. Good thick stuff.


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## slinger58

propainterJ said:


> Nothings going to totally hide Oak grain under paint.
> 
> You can fill in all the snail trails you want,that oak look aint going away.
> 
> Why do none of you use lacquer undercoat?
> 
> Stuff dries right now,sands like a dream,all I ever hear about in here is Oil or Shellac.
> 
> Just curious,


Plenty of folks here use or have used lacquer undercoater. Great stuff, but it's not a grain-filler.


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## Tonyg

Criard said:


> I would try the Zinnser Odorless oil primer, green can.
> 
> People here seem to love CoverStain, but Odorless has a good 20% more solids in it. Good thick stuff.


I tried it years ago when it came out. I found it a poor substitute/alternative


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## Jmayspaint

Tonyg said:


> I tried it years ago when it came out. I found it a poor substitute/alternative



It doesn't seem to me to have the same bonding capabilities as the original. Takes longer to cure also.


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## HollisPainting

Trying not to sound like a mad scientist but has anyone ever tried using a product like SW Block filler? Made to seal all those pinholes in cinder block and is an exterior product (after top coating) 
No mention of use on wood anywhere on the product sheet but it's stated purpose seems like it would fill oak grain. 
Problem is it only comes in 5 gal


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## woodcoyote

HollisPainting said:


> Trying not to sound like a mad scientist but has anyone ever tried using a product like SW Block filler? Made to seal all those pinholes in cinder block and is an exterior product (after top coating)
> No mention of use on wood anywhere on the product sheet but it's stated purpose seems like it would fill oak grain.
> Problem is it only comes in 5 gal


Haven't had enough time to try it like that.

I've used PrimeRx which is their equivalent to XIM Peel Bond. Same concept. Put it on thick and fill things.

Problem: the sprayer leaves a lot of divits (kind of like orange peel) and the material doesn't level very well at all. Which means your top coats will come out like crap.

Would have to tinker some more to see what can be done. 


In all honesty I think a sprayable grain filler would be better. I think I saw a post or two for some. Would probably waste less material and save money.


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## MikeCalifornia

HollisPainting said:


> Trying not to sound like a mad scientist but has anyone ever tried using a product like SW Block filler? Made to seal all those pinholes in cinder block and is an exterior product (after top coating)
> No mention of use on wood anywhere on the product sheet but it's stated purpose seems like it would fill oak grain.
> Problem is it only comes in 5 gal


Block filler is not going to have the adhesion and sanding capabilities that appropriate primers will have. My oak cabinets have been painted three times with primer as well, finally grain is gone but faint in some areas. Don't over promise what you will do, if the customer wants it gone, refacing is the way to go.


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