# New Sprayer any advise is welcome



## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

Hello all I am a traditional decorator in ever sence. 
I have recently persuaded myself to buy a graco pro step from my local paint suppliers mainly for the after sales service.

is their anything i really need to know they dont tell you when your buying it from them. i am going to spray some fancy cornice and 14ft ceilings in a 250 year old house.

thanks russ


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Return the sprayer and hire a pro before you get yourself in over your head. A sprayer in the hands of a novice will cost you more than hiring a pro.


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

*Confused.com*

Sorry pal i dont think you understand i have brought the sprayer to learn how to do it and then use it for my business everyone has to start sometime. I am no novice i have been in the trade 16 years and have used an airless sprayer on many occasions. i mearly wanted any advise people have that may be invaluble to an owner of a pump, as before i simply did what the hire place said and returned them wihtout any care for it future use as it wasnt mine. i was after any maintenance tips, work shortcuts and generally an intro to this site.

hope that clears it up 

thanks Russ :thumbup:


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

So you have been in the painting business for 16 years, used an airless many times, bought a little airless that that is only good for very small jobs and now you want someone to tell you how to maintain and operate this new piece of equipment. OK, first read the instruction manual, second practice own your own personal stuff, clean it good between uses, and keep the number of a pro handy.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Yea just RTM about operating procedures and maintenance. Everything else you will have to learn the hard way it seems. 

One tip I have is to always be aware of where your overspray is going.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I believe that the Pro Step is a 395 size Graco through SW. If so, the step is worthless (when do you move the sprayer with you so you can stand on it, it stays in one spot). Other than that, it will be great for trim spraying and stuff like that. You can prime out houses with it, but it will slow you down and probably be a little much for it, but it can be done in a pinch.

My first sprayer was a Mustang 3800 (like a Graco 190 I believe). I now have a larger one for priming, but I primed 6,000 sq. ft. homes with the 3800 and still shoot all my trim work with it. It is 5 years old now and has never been repacked or rebuilt yet. 

If you have rented an airless, you should be fine. Just clean better than you are used to for a rental. Pull the filters regularly to clean (both gun and manifold).


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I believe the pro step is a 390, never understood the need to stand on your airless but to each their own. Clean well and store with mineral spirits when not in use.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

This was sprayed by another paint contractor using a pro step. Maybe try to avoid that type of spraying because that sloppy spray job isn't saving anyone any time. More paint on the closet walls than on the base. If I saw a guy shoot a house like this, that would be the last time he touched a sprayer.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Wow talk about wasting paint.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

If you are going to overspray, overspray the floor at least so the sanding dust vacuums up nicely.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

I have the pro step,

It's a 390/395 like others have said. Step is worthless, unless you want to protect the housing from overspray. The unit also is extra heavy with a larger frame that protects the sprayer. I've never had it roll over in the truck. 
I've sprayed houses and small commercial with it. Stain grade trim. Lacquer, oil, water polyurethane, latex. The pressure adjustment is really sensitive which is good. You will probably rarely need to turn the pressure all the way up. 
I clean my filters everytime I change products, store it with water in the summer and antifreeze in the winter. It's a solid pump. You'll like it. Pay attention to tip size, that is the most critical part of the sprayer set up. Get a 211 and 313 for interior work. And always back roll your sprayed wall and ceiling applications.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I highly recommend storing your rig with spirits in it. Water is no bueno on a pump, plus it breaks down crap in the line. You will repack less and save money and aggrivation over the long haul.


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

I dont paint big commercial sites i am a period property specialist and the spray unit will come in handy for the ornate cornice and this unit is ideal for that, rather than using a brush. if your such a pro ill have your number so if i have any problems i can ring you if your the expert..


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

So Why do you back roll it this is a novice question im sure but isnt it the idea that you get rid of using a roller with the spray gun you are completely right the step is more of a seat when your having a brew complete waste of time


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Backroll builds stipple. Something you want on all but glossy finishes for walls.


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> Backroll builds stipple. Something you want on all but glossy finishes for walls.


So do you spray once overlapping by 50% and then backroll it and this is the finish or do you have to do it again. as the paint suppliers who sold me the pump didnt mention this they said once it has been sprayed it was finished why do i want stipple?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You will just have to practice on how much paint to spray before you backroll. To much and the stipple will take on a smeared look.

Pay attention to the next interior wall you walk by. You will see the stipple makes the wall more uniform.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Once again, if you are not experienced with a spray rig then you need to practice on your own stuff before you use it on a customers house. Spraying is not hard but it does take practice. You can call me at 1-800-ibyo-pro for assistance.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The old to back roll or not to back roll, that is the question debate.

IMHO backrolling is important for the following reasons.

1. When you look at drywall seams and face paper, you will see that their are two different textures. Back rolling helps eliminate this which helps keep seams from showing on the wall. Back rolling a nice spray coat does a better job at imparting the right stipple than brushing and rolling two coats of finish. Once you do it, you will see what we mean.

2. If you do not backroll, the drywall usually needs much more sanding to make it smooth. Fuzz really stands out on the drywall if you do not backroll.

3. Now for the most debated aspect: If you do not back roll, adhesion over seams especially maybe compromised. Especially if any dust is on the seams. Wallpaper guys are the most insistent on this since they seem to run into more problems as their paper dries and it pulls the primer off of the seams. I have seen failures over the seams on repaint projects before due to dust and poor adhesion. I cannot say for certain what the procedures where from the original painters though.


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

*Ah ha*

I think I know where the difference is. you guys all spray straight on to the dry wall which is taped together and the joints filled? (please advise). Here in england we plaster the walls with gypsum therefore the wall is like glass and not furry. so i assume once again that there is no need for a decorator in the uk to backroll unless they are crap at spraying??? as the wall should have no imperfections in it?????


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

You are correct about drywall here. For plaster, I do not have much experience, but I still backroll. Mainly because on extra high walls and large ceilings it is hard to get everything even with multiple start and stop points and to help with touch up. the last time we primed plaster, there were fine vertical lines over the entire surface due to how the plasterer finished it that I wanted to bury so I think backrolling helped there as well.


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

*Thank you*

Thanks for your reply. I will definatly have to do practice and suppose i will eventually do what is easiest for me, and like someone said earlier ill have to learn the hard way. Wish me luck


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

rustyw said:


> I think I know where the difference is. you guys all spray straight on to the dry wall which is taped together and the joints filled? (please advise). Here in england we plaster the walls with gypsum therefore the wall is like glass and not furry. so i assume once again that there is no need for a decorator in the uk to backroll unless they are crap at spraying??? as the wall should have no imperfections in it?????


Your looking at this all wrong laddy !!!!!

Even GREAT plasters will not give you a uniform even wall surface. Backrolling WILL,,,,,,

Think about it !!


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## rustyw (Jan 8, 2011)

I appreciate what you are saying. What pile roller sould be used how soon after aplication should the rolling start etc etc

russ:thumbup:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Depends on the paint. For flats on a smooth surface a 1/2" nap is desired, for semi-gloss eggshell a smaller nap is needed.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Jp wtf are you taliking abouit?!?!??!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

/\see what I dun there?! WTF are you talking about?!??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!?!


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