# Problem with Sheetrock Paper Loostening



## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

Well the walls are sheetrock, previously painted with a blue paint, and then later papered over. The wall paper was removed by HO, and then the walls were washed by her.

I did some minor repairs on the opposite wall where sheetrock paper tore off in the wall paper removal process. I used primer over the bare brown paper and then mud to even. Simple, no? Well the repaired areas did well with the final coat of primer. 

The walls that appeared OK puckered up after application of primer. Several spots appeared, kind of like finger size and in groups of several, like someone put four fingers on the wall and said pucker here.The painted paper of the sheetrock actually lifted away from the sheetrock. I was like WTF :blink:. :blink: I ran my hands across the walls BEFORE I applied primer, and could not feel any glue residue, or loose sheetrock paper. I used Zinnsser 123 primer, and when I called SW the guy there said he thought I should use an oil primer, just in case the latex primer was causing the problem. 

I cut the offending puckers off, but primed again, and chased more puckers. 

Any one have any experience with this kind of situation?

Thanks, Paul.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

When the paper was yanked off the wall, it de-laminated the drywall paper from the gypsum layer. You usually can't see this until you throw a coat of paint or primer on it. Best way to deal with it is to cut them out and patch again.

Whoever removed the paper was probably a bit heavy-handed when they did it.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

After cutting them out make sure your oil priming them.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

you might have to chase those spots several times,,,,youll finally get them all.

ive found that a good way to find them beforehand is to run your hand acroos the wall,,,,youll hear a different sound when your hand glides over a delaminated spot


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I like to take a stethoscope to the wall while tapping it with a drumstick.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Sometimes Gardz will penetrate the loose facing and readhere. 

You will still need to keep taping for loose facing and scrape loose spots off. 

-Bill


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## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

So if I am understanding this the there was a "space" created when the wall paper was removed. The space is under the sheetrock top layer of paper or so, because there are several laminated layers of paper applied over the gypsum proper. What happened was, in the stripping process, HO might have pulled the old wall paper off somewhat before it was ready to come off willingly.

Now after chasing puckers priming with the latex and mudding, if I go over the whole mess with an oil base primer things might be peachy keen? Or go back on Monday and find more puckers where I just worked, cut them out and prime with oil, and wait until dry to do the mudding, then go over with oil primer? The cure is the oil? If I would have primed with oil would the same thing have happened? 

Thanks all who respond, especially High Fibre I know high fibre is good.:thumbup:


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

I always oil-prime entire surface before i do any prep to areas that have been stipped to the shetrock paper, light sand, mud then top coat with latex primer or oil again, no Phuckers here, i mean puckers!!!!1


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Your guestimation of what happened and how is somewhat erroneous, but it's close enough.

I would still recommend Gardz to prime instead of oil. Gardz is a reverse engineeered from a product (draw-tite) that was formulated to repair torn sheet rock.


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## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

Thanks Arch. Say in that other thread what the heck is Burma Shave?:whistling2:
Paul


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## YubaPaintPro (Mar 2, 2008)

I agree & suggest Gardz. Check out Zinsser's website for the TDS. It really is the material to use. These paper hangers know their stuff. I did not know that Gardz is a copy Arch! Nice info.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

YubaPaintPro said:


> I agree & suggest Gardz. Check out Zinsser's website for the TDS. It really is the material to use. These paper hangers know their stuff. I did not know that Gardz is a copy Arch! Nice info.


Yuba,

Draw-tite is made by Scotch Paints, south of you in the LA area. They have a horrible distribution network - well OK they have ZERO distribution network.

However, you might find some in NoCal. 

Zinsser reduced the all important resin content enough so as not to infringe on Scotch's patent. This is after offerring Scotch a buy-out offer that was refused.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

HaHa love this site already... thought I was the only one that discovered this wonderful present from satan's helpers! I say there is no sure fire way of finding all the spots before priming. It is a nightmare.. I had a house where the homeowners took the wallpaper "kinda" off, the ripped it off in spots, left it in others.. then painted it. The actual wallpaper still on the walls then decided to delaminate from the walls (did I mention the paper hanger put it DIRECTLY on the drywall?) and then when they had me come over and bid it, failed to tell me that in another room they actually did the same, but then wallpapered over that.. they didn't think anything was wrong with what they did until I told them the dynamic of the work had changed and they were going to owe me more... tell you what.. I have seen first hand what it looks like when someone eats cereal that someone has pee'd in! :lol:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

zinsser rocks!


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

dincao said:


> I always oil-prime entire surface before i do any prep to areas that have been stipped to the shetrock paper, light sand, mud then top coat with latex primer or oil again, no Phuckers here, i mean puckers!!!!1


:yes::yes::yes::yes:


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

> The cure is the oil?


Yes, you have created a "waterproof" barrier. The water in the paint can no longer delaminate the paper (7 layers if I recall correctly)
A rattle can of shellac works as well, depending on how much area yo uneed to cover

I bet by Monday they have disappeared, then you have a moral dilemma. Find and fix them or keep painting


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## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

Can we assume that maybe the ho had the wall a little too wet a litte too long, and that the paper was wet enough to delaminate but just did not tear off in the wp removal process?

I always use oil primer for damage like this. I also use oil for the last priming. Interesting to see some may use a water based primer for the final prime. I have wondered about using wb for the final also. Actually, I guess it would depend on what room it is in.
How many use wb for the final priming when doing repairs like this?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

:lol: man I read that as HOE instead of home owner :lmao: that is great~!

The primer I used on the mess I spoke of earlier was some type of PVA primer from KWAL. It looked like watered down Elmer glue. It did the trick and I didn't have any problems with further delamination. I don't think it was/is a oil based product.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Other possibilities.... Almost sounds like another layer of paper under the paint. Ive seen that before.. or moisture issue on opposite side of offending wall? Much the same like exterior paint can bubble up on siding.

And last but not least... residue from sticky putty that people use to hand posters, pics etc. You can paint over them and paint will dry, but recoating a wall can rewet those spots.


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