# Pricing minor drywall repairs



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Hello everyone,

This is my first post, although i have been using this site for a couple months now and have found some very useful information.

I have been painting for over 15 years and have just recently (after moving to a new area) decided to start my own painting company, something I have been doing on the side for the last 6 years. I know enough to know that I still have alot to learn and am looking forwars to being a member of this community.

When Im bidding a paint project I'm often asked to do small (minor) drywall repairs, such as re-taping split seams or cracks, skimcoats after wall paper removal and small piece work. I am looking for some general information on how to price this stuff out 

I know alot has been said on this topic here and in other forums, but the answers usually apply to hanging/finishing large areas where the price is given in either sqft. or per board. This really does'nt compute if i am just cutting out and replacing 2x2 piece where someone as put thier fist through the wall. I have had the opportunity to moonlight with a contractor who was also master drywaller, after which i would not even consider myself to be a profesional drywaller when compared to his work, but i can do patchwork and make my seams dissapear even is it takes an extra coat, a little sanding and a little more time.

Here are some examples of what I want to be able to price out:

1. A doorway that had been closed up and was either poorly taped or not taped at all, leaving a crack where the jam once was. Total linear ft to be taped is about 17ft on each side of the wall.

2. A 144 sqft room that needs to be skim coated after home owner removed wallpaper.

3. Small piece work to repair damaged drywall.

As I said above these are in addition to larger painting projects but I'm never really sure what to charge. I dont typicall like to charge hourly, so i am wondering if anyone has a method base on linear ft for 1 and 3 and sqft for 2.

thanks

matt


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Can't help you with the pricing /sf.

I always priced it in with the job I was doing and I rarely had any job just doing patching. It was always accompanied with other painting. 

I think it would be difficult to price it by linear ft because just like painting, there are too many different factors depending on the job.


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

HQP2005 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> This is my first post, although i have been using this site for a couple months now and have found some very useful information.
> 
> ...


no real formula i just know what i can do,sounds like around $100-$150.....depends how far u gotta go to get there and if it can be done on one trip which it looks like it can


----------



## Laz (Nov 14, 2010)

I charge T&M for drywall repairs. I tell my costumers strait up that I am a painter that can do drywall repairs. I will not be as fast as a dry waller doing them but when I am done they will be done right and I will do all of them. Never has a customer complained at the additional cost.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

if you go off another's numbers.. good luck surviving.

Come on man.. you don't know how to figure something out and you have been in the game for 15yrs?

Me smells homeowner or some type of building manager..


----------



## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

U goota go t and m and be generouse to yourself on both. Little taping jobs kill ur production. Put them on the clock evry time you make a pass on the taping. Probably four passas rt? Probably bout an hour a pass. Probably bout an hour the first and last and bout 20 - 30 min for the other two but that's 4 hours . If u use half of a bag of easy sand twenty it's a hole bag. If ur on their clock n they want u to fix this n that a little bit more n repaint it no problem ur gettin paid.


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

nEighter said:


> if you go off another's numbers.. good luck surviving.
> 
> Come on man.. you don't know how to figure something out and you have been in the game for 15yrs?
> 
> Me smells homeowner or some type of building manager..


your just a rookie pal......looks like about 2 hours worth of work there buddy,add in a little time to break out the ole heat gun to expedite the drying time and you may have three (but i doubt it)...of course this is for cash also,
this is just for repair not painting anything.......if your first sentence wasn't directed towards me disregard this post,,,,,,,:thumbsup:


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

nEighter said:


> Come on man.. you don't know how to figure something out and you have been in the game for 15yrs?
> 
> Me smells homeowner or some type of building manager..


 
As stated in my original post, I have only been doing my own side work for 6 years and have just recently decided to go on my own full-time. My question was specifically about drywall, not painting, and when i was making peanuts to fill screw holes for a real drywaller, I didnt think to ask him how he was pricing his jobs or even thinking about having my own business.

I realize alot of guys get slammed for asking similar questions, but I am just trying to devolope some consistancy in my pricing. I dont want to cheat myself or lose a bid because the drywall work was to high. Just wanted to know what others were doing.

Thanks Oden and Laz for your responses.


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

looks like the op edited his comment......the skimming of the bed was not there when i read it the first time....i call a fowl


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

HQP2005 said:


> As stated in my original post, I have only been doing my own side work for 6 years and have just recently decided to go on my own full-time. My question was specifically about drywall, not painting, and when i was making peanuts to fill screw holes for a real drywaller, I didnt think to ask him how he was pricing his jobs or even thinking about having my own business.
> 
> I realize alot of guys get slammed for asking similar questions, but I am just trying to devolope some consistancy in my pricing. I dont want to cheat myself or lose a bid because the drywall work was to high. Just wanted to know what others were doing.
> 
> Thanks Oden and Laz for your responses.


Same ol' stuff


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

The examples in my post are just examples. These are things I have already done and got paid for. it just seems like im always guessing how long i think its gonna take and just wanted to know if anyone has a more consistant pricing method.

Ill be the first to admit that im greener than a toad butt when it comes to the business end of things. Thats why im trying to learn. I've spent alot of nights and weekends making less than i was getting paid at my job and now that im doing this full time I cant afford to be undercharging.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

HQP2005 said:


> The examples in my post are just examples. These are things I have already done and got paid for. it just seems like im always guessing how long i think its gonna take and just wanted to know if anyone has a more consistant pricing method.
> 
> Ill be the first to admit that im greener than a toad butt when it comes to the business end of things. Thats why im trying to learn. I've spent alot of nights and weekends making less than i was getting paid at my job and now that im doing this full time I cant afford to be undercharging.


If you don't know how long it's going to take you, how are we supposed to know?


----------



## scottjr (Jan 14, 2012)

Pretty simple:
1. Estimate how long the job will take and multiply that by what you want to make per hour.
2. Estimate the material cost.
3. Add #1 to #2.
That's a family secret passed down from generations.


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

First off, let me just say i respect anyone who took the time to read and respond to my question, wether your just bustin balls or you really think im an idiot for asking it.

But lets simplify things.

theres a 20ft crack running the length of somones cieling and they want you to tape it. Nevermind how it got there or wether it crack agoain 5 years from now.

Does anyone have way of pricing this based on linear ft and not estimated hours.

i am willing to accept that no one does this, I just wanna know


----------



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Time and materials usually works. I know there is plenty of time wasted allowing for the mud to dry so if you are not working someplace else on the same job you should take into consideration the time spent watching the stuff set-up.


----------



## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

HQP2005 said:


> First off, let me just say i respect anyone who took the time to read and respond to my question, wether your just bustin balls or you really think im an idiot for asking it.
> 
> But lets simplify things.
> 
> ...


I will jump in on this fun fest since I just dealt with this myself recently.

I don't feel comfortable fixing drywall. I have actually passed on bidding jobs because of all the fixes involved. 

You admitted you were experienced to a degree. Way over-estimate your time and how much the hassle of doing the repair is worth.

Example-I know what I like to get a day, so I figure this hassle will take 2-3 passes minimum. Cut-out drywall and frame-in new, initial tape and float, sand and maybe float again, texturing if it has to be textured. Like to prime new drywall too. THEN I can paint the area at my regular rate.

If you get 300 a day, I'd charge $150 plus mat. If you are having to go just to work it after it dries, I'd charge more.

I'm not afraid to talk dollars with you. I know all across the US money is different. I cut out an 18X30 inch piece from a ceiling and put in some extra 2x4 pieces, then taped it. Swung by a day later at my convenience and lightly floated it again since I set the new piece a little deep.
Yesterday, I sanded and shot texture and knocked-down. They wanted to paint it themselves and are pretty handy around their house.

The bill? $185 I used scrap lumber, drywall and some mud I had. Roughly 4 hours including set-up and clean-up.

I must say, if this were spring or summer when I am buried with work, I may not have even done this job, but indoor work is important in Feb.

I hope this helps. Don't let those old fogies scare you with their venomous keystrokes.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

A+HomeWork said:


> Don't let those old fogies scare you with their venomous keystrokes.


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

A+HomeWork said:


> I'm not afraid to talk dollars with you. I know all across the US money is different. I cut out an 18X30 inch piece from a ceiling and put in some extra 2x4 pieces, then taped it. Swung by a day later at my convenience and lightly floated it again since I set the new piece a little deep.
> Yesterday, I sanded and shot texture and knocked-down. They wanted to paint it themselves and are pretty handy around their house.
> 
> The bill? $185 I used scrap lumber, drywall and some mud I had. Roughly 4 hours including set-up and clean-up.


That's a lot of work for $185. I would say 2x that is par in my neck of the woods


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I have made some major changes in our billing. My hourly rate includes all my overhead and profit. I don't quote by the hour, this is how I base my flat rate on. 

I have developed a system of minimums for drywall repairs and small taping jobs, or enhancing them.... Small Patches and minors repairs I just add a few additional prep hours to the room in my bids. We are however over 90% painting.

If its is only a painting small job (good sized room) with large repairs - 8 hours min sometimes more) + paint production. Larger jobs with multiple rooms, I will be nicer depending on the amount of repairing. You must account for your 3 coats to dry, plus sand, vac, prime and this is not always possible on the same day. You need to be paid all day, so unless you have a shop to go to and bill some hours, or more production in a house to do, make sure you account for ALL the hours in a day that you COULD be billing elsewhere.

Here is how I look at it;

Let's say it is a few patches (2 x 2 patch, or a bead or whatever that requires TAPE) - Minimum it would be a level 4 finish, and it is PART of a painting project

Set Up and tape 1 hour
2nd Coat .5 hour
3rd Coat. .5 hour
Finish sand and Vac . 5 hour
Prime . 5 hour

3 hours Min prep just on the drywall patch + regular room prep charges + production

Yeah I know y'all can coat this in 5 mins each trip - BUT there is a lot of unaccounted for time since you needed to stop what you WERE doing, go to the patch, gear up again, gear down, 3 times, washing pails, brushes etc... it is all about recovering the wheel spinning to do this simple task. I also have to account for employees who don't have my experience. It pulls you away from doing work that is profitable, and drying times on large patches delay your finishing schedule. If they had to bring some one else in..... see next sentence.

If it is not part of a painting project:

8 hours minimum and I will sit there with a fan and blow dryer using HOT water in fast set 20 to make sure it is done...early! I still have to go see it, buy materials, drive back, invoice it, etc... I don't do these jobs as a rule, but if someone calls me a pesters me to give them a price to fix a hole only and nothing else - this is my quote! Unless they are next door to a current project, I simply cannot afford to do this for less as it can delay everything down the line. We can usually cut and roll the wall section in for the same minimum if the application fits.

Small Room taping 16 hours minimum billing. I need to account for my travel time as well, so this system covers me. We can join WIP each day doing this type of room. Usually one of us will take off from a project early afternoon and coat these out at the end of the day. 

Multi-room taping minimum 32 hours billing - I cannot do anything else for those for days other than tape since they take up more of a day, so if I don't have other taping jobs lined up, they are paying me for the rest of my day. I will clean up and head over to another active project if feasible but I never know this when I am quoting or when the job is ready.

Large House - Sq foot - I have my own calculation that is MUCH higher than the "Going" rate. If I tape for the going rate I would average minimum $10 less per man hour, than what I would make doing anything else based on OUR taping production times. We only tape custom homes in NC, so we afford ourselves extra PICKY time when taping and sanding. We love painting our own work!


Does any of this make any sense?


----------



## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I have made some major changes in our billing. My hourly rate includes all my overhead and profit. I don't quote by the hour, this is how I base my flat rate on.
> 
> I have developed a system of minimums for drywall repairs and small taping jobs, or enhancing them.... Small Patches and minors repairs I just add a few additional prep hours to the room in my bids. We are however over 90% painting.
> 
> ...


Yes, patch work minor, minimum and major. 1/2 day or less between 125-250, 1/2 day to a full day between 250-500.
Full day to a 1 1/2 days 500+ anything more than that is more than patch work.


----------



## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Ur good. If u goota get tied to a flat price yeh make it so u couldn't possibly get hurt so ul surely make ur money.


----------



## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Oden said:


> Ur good. If u goota get tied to a flat price yeh make it so u couldn't possibly get hurt so ul surely make ur money.


Do you speak English? I wonder how people can consider themselves professionals when they type like this. Spelling? Full words? Punctuation? This is what I would expect from my 13 year old speed texting.


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Hey Roominaday,

Great response, it all makes perfect sense. Alot can be taped in an hour, but a 3 hour minimum for anything sounds reasonable for even a small patch. Thanks for taking the time to break it down like that.

Its just sometimes good to hear things from someone who sounds like they know what there talking about.


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Oden said:


> Ur good. If u goota get tied to a flat price yeh make it so u couldn't possibly get hurt so ul surely make ur money.


the point your missing in this thread, is that were talking about a general price not a definitive. there are always variables that affect what you actually charge when you give a quote.


----------



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

HQP2005 said:


> Hey Roominaday,
> 
> Great response, Its just sometimes good to hear things from someone who sounds like they know what there talking about.


*eye roll*




Just kidding RIAD!


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I have made some major changes in our billing. My hourly rate includes all my overhead and profit. I don't quote by the hour, this is how I base my flat rate on.
> 
> I have developed a system of minimums for drywall repairs and small taping jobs, or enhancing them.... Small Patches and minors repairs I just add a few additional prep hours to the room in my bids. We are however over 90% painting.
> 
> ...


 So what your saying basically is 500 for a Roominaday:thumbsup:


----------



## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I apologize for my grammatical deficiency to my scholarly counterpart from Montco.


----------



## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

As has been stated, drywall repairs that need multiplecoats slow down production. I used to add 1 hr/crack to my quote, but now I sub it to a taper and add 20%, then invoice the client. He charges me $25/patch, or $40/hr if it's under $450minimum. It's three trips for him regardless if it's one patch or a whole room. HO have no trouble here paying for something they don't want to do themselves. Usually those are the ones who have tried to fix it in the past, then hired someone to fix that, LOL...


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Minor drywall for a major price!


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

The biggest issue , is dry time .
Time waster . I do probably 300 to 600 patches 
A year . Hair dryers have made this much more faster .Knock, stomp orange peel skip towel , smooth . 
The average is 150 a hour . Also having a festool makes sanding 
Fun.


----------



## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

Patch jobs seem to be my most unprofitable work. It's alright if I am on a job for a few days and can work the dry time in but when it is just a patch job and you got to run there 5 times it stinks. I use 5 or 20 minute patch and the stuff still takes forever to set especially on cold plaster walls. After starting to fix a water damaged ceiling on Friday for my cousin and had to go back today and tomorrow multiple times, I know I have to charge more for these. I gave her a good deal.


----------



## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> Patch jobs seem to be my most unprofitable work. It's alright if I am on a job for a few days and can work the dry time in but when it is just a patch job and you got to run there 5 times it stinks. I use 5 or 20 minute patch and the stuff still takes forever to set especially on cold plaster walls. After starting to fix a water damaged ceiling on Friday for my cousin and had to go back today and tomorrow multiple times, I know I have to charge more for these. I gave her a good deal.


ONE WORD: HALOGENS. if you dont have HALOGENS go buy some seriously, the heat output on theses puppies will dry out even premixed mud which normally takes hours and hours within 1. i use 45 min, i put the halogens on em and i can recoat within 20. we use them all the time for skim coating walls as well, helps us see the shadows.


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

StripandCaulk said:


> ONE WORD: HALOGENS. if you dont have HALOGENS go buy some seriously, the heat output on theses puppies will dry out even premixed mud which normally takes hours and hours within 1. i use 45 min, i put the halogens on em and i can recoat within 20. we use them all the time for skim coating walls as well, helps us see the shadows.


How do they compare to hair dryers? , that has crossed my mind before . Using lights 
Those things get hot . I need to make a set up with 3 hair dryers . My only concern is fire . When hair dryers ! go they just quit working . Lights like that could start a fire !


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Why leave ? You can tape bed skim float with dura bond In one setting . Let it dry for 30 5 min mudd hot water 
Light sand skim if needed . Prime with flat let dry ! Texture and sponge done . Depends on texture . Been using the Ez texture system. For patches lately . Works pretty good for orange peel drys real fast 
If your painting in the same day . Knock down usually a second day trip .


----------



## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> How do they compare to hair dryers? , that has crossed my mind before . Using lights
> Those things get hot . I need to make a set up with 3 hair dryers . My only concern is fire . When hair dryers ! go they just quit working . Lights like that could start a fire !


Honestly man ive never tried hair dryers, i will tommorow though and let you know for sure! the lights i have are basic halogen work lights, husky brand. i have a stand for them adjustable heights and angles. there is a cage protecting the bulb around them, so in the rare event they fall over the bulb itself is not in direct contact with any surface. I know of no-one that has ever had a fire. Great if you ever have to pull an all nighter/need more light for interior sanding/ want to see all the shadows.


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> Patch jobs seem to be my most unprofitable work. It's alright if I am on a job for a few days and can work the dry time in but when it is just a patch job and you got to run there 5 times it stinks. I use 5 or 20 minute patch and the stuff still takes forever to set especially on cold plaster walls. After starting to fix a water damaged ceiling on Friday for my cousin and had to go back today and tomorrow multiple times, I know I have to charge more for these. I gave her a good deal.


The system I use I can do three coats in an hr, I use easysand rather then dura bond cause it sands much nicer and easier, but durabond will work if that's all you have
One coat of 5 min easysand pull it real tight, you gotta work real quick with this stuff, leave no heavy edge or belly.....next coat is with 20 min easysand a little bigger then the 5 min patch, then I use a heat gun (Milwaukee) but a hair dryer will work its just a little slower,I dry that almost dry but it don't have to be completely dry, the third coat is same as the second but I just make much larger and I won't dry it unless I got to paint it that day......keep in mind when you build the coats of mud up you do not want any edges, pull as much mud of as you can


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

wills fresh coat said:


> The system I use I can do three coats in an hr, I use easysand rather then dura bond cause it sands much nicer and easier, but durabond will work if that's all you have
> One coat of 5 min easysand pull it real tight, you gotta work real quick with this stuff, leave no heavy edge or belly.....next coat is with 20 min easysand a little bigger then the 5 min patch, then I use a heat gun (Milwaukee) but a hair dryer will work its just a little slower,I dry that almost dry but it don't have to be completely dry, the third coat is same as the second but I just make much larger and I won't dry it unless I got to paint it that day......keep in mind when you build the coats of mud up you do not want any edges, pull as much mud of as you can


I prefer Durobon 90 for the taping ( and prefill if you have to) just to hold things together in a stronger bond. Then use the quicker dry sheetrock 20 to finish. If you mix with water that's not clean/fresh the bond sets up faster as well.:yes:


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Scotiadawg said:


> I prefer Durobon 90 for the taping ( and prefill if you have to) just to hold things together in a stronger bond. Then use the quicker dry sheetrock 20 to finish. If you mix with water that's not clean/fresh the bond sets up faster as well.:yes:


Your system is great if you have a lot to do,the one I was describing was just for a blow out patch or a doorknob hole,I never use 5min on large areas, it sets up to quick and you toss more then you use.....:thumbsup:


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Using fresh clean water hot or cold . You got to be quick with it . I usually tape and bed in the first coat . Heat guns can really mess things up ! They can work depends on well you sanded the outside edges . I have had them create air pockets in the mudd also pull the mudd right off. Easy sand that is wet mixed mudd that comes in the little buckets right ? . I have seen at 
Lowes . My system I like to prime prior to 
Texture not always . Just flat paint ! Primer 
Can also seal it to much and cause it to flash . I really been using 20 a lot more . 
It seems to dry just as fast as 5 min mudd!


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

anyone who's been painting for 15 years *really* should know how long it's going to take to get things done and have a sq ft $ figured out. IMHO ony.


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Set doesn't mean dry and you can have issues trying to rush paint on. It's one thing to rush a door knob hole, its another to rush a butt joint in the middle of a wall. I am a taper as well so I get fussy and make patches as wide as they need to be to blend. A butt joint would be a minimum of 3 feet wide on my work.Throw in a painted wall with all those bubbles that form with each coat......

I almost burnt a place down with a 500w light when someone tipped it over and no one was around for 20 mins.


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

HQP2005 said:


> The examples in my post are just examples. *These are things I have already done and got paid for*. it just seems like im always guessing how long i think its gonna take and just wanted to know if anyone has a more consistant pricing method.
> 
> Ill be the first to admit that im greener than a toad butt when it comes to the business end of things. Thats why im trying to learn. I've spent alot of nights and weekends making less than i was getting paid at my job and now that im doing this full time I cant afford to be undercharging.


So what di... how did you come out on these?

This is something I have given some thought to also. Reason being the increases in paint prices talked about and the tendency of some to do their own painting projects. Not near as many are prone to attempt dw repair/finish. I feel a good portion of the ones that do wind up calling someone to fix their attempt as has been mentioned.

It would have to profitable though with a minimal charge of some sort.

As I learn more about finishing, I find I seem to like it. But, I tend to be that way. Enjoy something until I get the hang of it then... ADD or something I guess.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

boman47k said:


> So what di... how did you come out on these?
> 
> This is something I have given some thought to also. Reason being the increases in paint prices talked about and the tendency of some to do their own painting projects. Not near as many are prone to attempt dw repair/finish. I feel a good portion of the ones that do wind up calling someone to fix their attempt as has been mentioned.
> 
> ...


 The art of drywall finishing is easy to learn but hard to master.:notworthy:


----------



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

mudbone said:


> The art of drywall finishing is easy to learn but hard to master.:notworthy:


Correct. I use to have a guy that could lay down 3 coats and hardly ever sand anything. True expert and more than just a pro.


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

boman47k said:


> So what di... how did you come out on these?
> 
> This is something I have given some thought to also. Reason being the increases in paint prices talked about and the tendency of some to do their own painting projects. Not near as many are prone to attempt dw repair/finish. I feel a good portion of the ones that do wind up calling someone to fix their attempt as has been mentioned.
> 
> ...


 
Mixed Results

The door jam took 4 coats to make perfect and with the priming held me up with finishing the rooms. Im embarrassed to say i only charged $50 for each side, when $100/side would of been reasonable.

As someone pointed out earlier, the 12x12 skimcoat was actually added/edited because i thought it would get a better answer in terms of what i was looking. The actual job was an 8x4 area that had a bulletin board glued directly to the wall and tore up the top few layers of paper when removed also leaving alot of residue from the glue and pulling the tape from the joint. 2 coats of a bonding primer to seal paper and give compound better surface, then 2 coats + a skim to smooth out completly and another coat of primer. this one i charged by the hour. with surface prep and clean-up probably about 4 hours

For small patches, I agree with every thing said by Roominday (post #19) 3 hours minimum just to pull out the compound and thats only if your doing other work. Ive checked some other drywaller sites on these small repairs and thier charging $125-165 just to come to your house (3 coats in a day and do not come back to sand or prime) 

I have no experience with these quicksets that everyones talking about, but I'm gonna check them out. The guy I learned to do drywall from only used sheetrock brand premix and fans when needed.


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

I mo, familiarity with the setting muds would be a necessity if you want to do dw repair in most cases. I would also think a fiver of water would be needed so you can keep your knive and trowels clean as you do not really want hotmud going off on your tools.

I recently bought a hawk for mud. I think I will eventually get away from the small pan. For one thing, the hawk has no corners that have to be cleaned.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

boman47k said:


> I recently bought a hawk for mud. I think I will eventually get away from the small pan. For one thing, the hawk has no corners that have to be cleaned.


I'm just the opposite. I recently bought one of those small troughs. Have been using a hawk for decades. Hawks are fabulous for mud. 

Actually the trough is good to mix small quantities of hot mud or POP in.


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

boman47k said:


> I mo, familiarity with the setting muds would be a necessity if you want to do dw repair in most cases.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I get that now after reading these posts. too many extra days added to projects waiting for compound to dry.


----------



## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

HQP2005 said:


> boman47k said:
> 
> 
> > I mo, familiarity with the setting muds would be a necessity if you want to do dw repair in most cases.
> ...


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

daArch said:


> I'm just the opposite. I recently bought one of those small troughs. Have been using a hawk for decades. Hawks are fabulous for mud.
> 
> *Actually the trough is good to mix small quantities of hot mud* or POP in.


Have to agree with that. I am just hate cleaning my pan out if the hotmud starts to set. I don't do any big mud jobs, but I guess I need to at least get a stanless pan as it may be easier to keep clean.

Recently I did a couple of ceilings (popcorn removal) and used 1 gal ice cream buckets to mix enough 20 min to load a roller pan a couple of times. Being as I was rolling the mud on the ceiling, I could mix it wet enough to slow the setting time (in the bucket) a little yet the skim coat would still set up pretty quick on the ceiling.

P.S. I guess maybe I should add the final skim was light weight all purpose with dust control.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Not trying to be a douchebag but... 
Extra water doesn't retard the drying time of quick setting mix. 

I like using the stuff for deep fills or for little stuff where I can manage it and won't need to sand it much since it don't sand good. 

I like using lightweight premixed for final thin coats since it is easy to sand and tool. And since its a thin coat, it don't take long to dry.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

boman47k said:


> Have to agree with that. I am just hate cleaning my pan out if the hotmud starts to set. I don't do any big mud jobs, but I guess I need to at least get a stanless pan as it may be easier to keep clean.
> 
> Recently I did a couple of ceilings (popcorn removal) and used 1 gal ice cream buckets to mix enough 20 min to load a roller pan a couple of times. Being as I was rolling the mud on the ceiling, I could mix it wet enough to slow the setting time (in the bucket) a little yet the skim coat would still set up pretty quick on the ceiling.
> 
> P.S. I guess maybe I should add the final skim was light weight all purpose with dust control.


 Yes buy you a stainless mud pan there a lot easier to clean then plastic ones.I would also use the Down-with-Dust control mud if I were you especially if people our actually living there.Great stuff it does drop straight down and doesnt go airborne.I use it all the time for the finish coat of skim especially on ceilings.:thumbsup:


----------



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> Extra water doesn't retard the drying time of quick setting mix.


 Absolutely correct. I have seen it set up submerged in a bucket of water.


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

Builtmany said:


> Absolutely correct. I have seen it set up submerged in a bucket of water.


Seems I remember some not being dry enough the next day to sand a few years ago. I don't remember if it was 20, 45 or what. And no, I do not sand it now. It did want to sand, if I remember correctly. Now I work smooth enough that I might have to hit a few high spots with a knife then apply reg or finish mud. Then a slight sanding.

On the last ceiling I did, I did have a deep gouge around the light box right where a couple of boards intersected. 20 was used to fill it and a few other touch-ups before I skimmed with dust control light weight. 

I'm still not sure about the Light Weigh All Purpose With Dust Control. Something does sound right about Lightweight *and* All Purpose. 


P.S. Are you guys saying 20 min will set up and harden in water in 15 to 20 min's? Not doubting it will setup in water as it is a chemicval reaction that makes it harden. All I know is the time I am referring to, it did not get hard enough to fool with over night. 
But yes, you can actually see the dust fall as you sand the ceiling.


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

boman47k said:


> but I guess I need to at least get a stanless pan as it may be easier to keep clean.


Rick I recommend the Cool Grip II knives on this page and the contoured stainless pan about the middle of the page. 
http://advance-equipment.com/drywall-tools.php


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

boman47k said:


> P.S. I guess maybe I should add the final skim was light weight all purpose with dust control.


I find the dust control mud seems like it never truly dries


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

You guys got me wondering if I am confused about the hotmud being soft a day later. Time for some more experimenting.

I also, for the first time bought the reg mud in the bag in the box. Usually I would just get the fiver, but thought I would try the med in the box as it was cheaper and seems to be the same thing minus the bucket. I like the way I can fold the bag back down on what is still in the box. At least I hope that works out to be an advantage.


----------



## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> I find the dust control mud seems like it never truly dries


I agree something seems a little off about it. I was kind of thinking it was not as dense as reg muds. Almost .....hmm, not fluffy exactly, but.... something. 

I noticed on this ceiling a few scratches and places where it seems to have fallen out in little chunks. Maybe it still a little moist.

P.S. That first pic is before the first full skim.
The last is the painted ceiling. There are still a some scratches from the 120 grit screen and a few small gouges as mentioned.

The popcorn you see is the backroom/laundry that used to be a back porch. I removed the wall that was there and recently removed that popcorn I put on it.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> Rick I recommend the Cool Grip II knives on this page and the contoured stainless pan about the middle of the page.
> http://advance-equipment.com/drywall-tools.php


 Thanks Work-ah cool web site.:thumbup:


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

If your going to be on the job doing other repairs and such. I would charge about $7.00 per linear foot for cracks. If not you have to go by time & materials. Figure out your hourly rate and multiply by how many hours it's going to take. Don't forget that after primer goes on you will have to point up, as well as after the first finish coat of paint. Hope this helps.


----------



## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

century painting said:


> If your going to be on the job doing other repairs and such. I would charge about $7.00 per linear foot for cracks. If not you have to go by time & materials. Figure out your hourly rate and multiply by how many hours it's going to take. Don't forget that after primer goes on you will have to point up, as well as after the first finish coat of paint. Hope this helps.


7.00 per LINEAR foot on cracks...and you point to the primer after it goes on, and you point to the first finish coat of paint. dude you must have the force. did yoda school you on becomming a jedi?


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

Yes I agree with robladd & roominaday! Time is everything!


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

I had a feeling this was gonna happen

As the op'er can i request this thread be killed.

Thanks Century, but you dont wanna go there.


----------



## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

HQP2005 said:


> I had a feeling this was gonna happen
> 
> As the op'er can i request this thread be killed.
> 
> Thanks Century, but you dont wanna go there.


i kind of want to know what century means by "will have to point up"


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

Hey matt.

#1 You can try by the linear foot for cracks.$5.00 to $6.00 for walls and a dollar more per foot for ceilings ($6.00- $7.00) But time and materials is your best option.You have to consider that after you apply 3 coats or so,you need to prime,point up,apply 1st finish coat and point up again and then finally paint. Also, are you doing anything else or just this repair that can eat up most of your day

#2 As far as skim coating goes....how well does the homeowner remove wallpaper? If the wallpaper wasn't sized properly prior to applying the wallpaper, it can be tough to remove. With that being said it can be pretty banged up by HO. Also, HO rarely remove all the wallpaper and glue from walls. This leaves you in a tricky position because you're left still prepping it before you skim coat anything. For properly prepared walls you can charge from .43 -.57 cents per sq.ft of wall space (not floor space) This pricing doesnt reflect multiple skim coats. It's better to try and get the wallpaper removal of the job as well. You can charge up to .70 cents or so.It's all relative to time and materials. Some wallpaper is easier than others to remove and that should be reflected in price.

#3 As far as 2x2 drywall repair...Are you just doing that or other work as well. You can be there for 3-4 hours messing around with it until it's perfect. Is the wall going to be painted flat or a high gloss finish where it has to be perfect? This again should be estimated by time and materials. I do these as cheap as $35.00 with a whole house to paint or just tell HO I will throw it in for free.

.


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

"Pointing up" is a term used by drywall pros. After drywall is installed, mudded,sanded and primed ... you have to go back and "point up the drywall" meaning remudd any imperfections there might be.


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

Thats funny....I'm def not a jedi. I know it's taboo talking about pricing on here. It's just repair talk.


----------



## century painting (Jan 24, 2012)

I agree with wills fresh coat & strip & caulk. Thats the way to do it!


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks for the response Century

Any drywall work i do is almost always related to a painting project.
I asked the question because taping and patches always end up taking longer than i expected when giving a price and I was just looking for a some general ideas to have something to compare my hours too.


----------



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Ceiling patches around lights or just basic light replacement holes . I charge more . They take more coats for one . The hard part specially getting your knock down just 
Right . I really have to be in zen mode for those sometimes . I prime and sponge before texture sand real good around the patch also . Getting the mudd right is also a big deal too . That stuff always takes time . Then all the masking that goes into it . $ ceiling patches for just 1 around 300 for knock down . If there is more then one i run them a deal and most times if you make them happy you get the painting part too .


----------



## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

century painting said:


> "Pointing up" is a term used by drywall pros. After drywall is installed, mudded,sanded and primed ... you have to go back and "point up the drywall" meaning remudd any imperfections there might be.


i hadnt heard the term before, but now that i am clear of you definition:thumbsup:

right on man


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> I find the dust control mud seems like it never truly dries


I hate that "dust control" stuff too. It doesn't trowel well and will sometimes pull off the seam when troweling the skim coat. Dust control my a*& ! the damn stuff just clings to the wall and makes a bigger vac job before priming


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Is "dust control" that purple stuff you find at HD? I completely agree that it's crap to work with. Sean you nailed it that it never really dries hard, you can scratch your fingernail through it a month later. 

This stuff that I buy at Rona works really well. I don't add any water on first coat, a bit on the second, and a bit more on third gradually thinning it. 

The trick is to mix the crap out of it.


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Is "dust control" that purple stuff you find at HD? I completely agree that it's crap to work with. Sean you nailed it that it never really dries hard, you can scratch your fingernail through it a month later.
> 
> This stuff that I buy at Rona works really well. I don't add any water on first coat, a bit on the second, and a bit more on third gradually thinning it.
> 
> ...


I've tried the EsiFill stuff and didn't like it - just too soft. I'm pretty old fashioned. Just Durobond 90 for prefill and tape, double up and skim with CGC regular. Nice strong bond and silky smooth finish with very very little sanding on the skim coat.:yes:


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Scotiadawg said:


> I've tried the EsiFill stuff and didn't like it - just too soft. I'm pretty old fashioned. Just Durobond 90 for prefill and tape, double up and skim with CGC regular. Nice strong bond and silky smooth finish with very very little sanding on the skim coat.:yes:


Ya I hear ya...I wouldn't do a house or rebuild high traffic corners with it, but we're talking 'minor' drywall repairs. Heck of a lot better than that purple HD crap. 

BTW - I don't use that Hyde system....its free for anyone who wants to pay the shipping to have it.


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Ya I hear ya...I wouldn't do a house or rebuild high traffic corners with it, but we're talking 'minor' drywall repairs. Heck of a lot better than that purple HD crap.
> 
> BTW - I don't use that Hyde system....its free for anyone who wants to pay the shipping to have it.


sorry bout that, as usual my typing got ahead of my brain, should have read your post more carefully:yes::thumbsup:


----------



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Scotiadawg said:


> sorry bout that, as usual my typing got ahead of my brain, should have read your post more carefully:yes::thumbsup:


You know what though...with that said, now that I have a Festool system, that gives opportunity to go back to the old ways. 

This dustless drywall is super great for occupied repaints for things like taking out a built in toilet paper holder, other wall patches and repairs. Problem, as talked about is the drytimes.

I'm not super well versed in drywall mud so I have to look into again on what to use that dries fast. 

Is there any premix stuff that drys fast...or is that possible?

Most here just use the yellow then blue Synco box stuff. I don't like it, because if you don't use the whole box, no matter how hard you try the bag gets crusty and your picking chunks out of the mud. Plus you have to remove it to mix it anyway.

Its hard to justify the time to mix up a batch for a bunch of small repairs....maybe I need to learn a new system with this.....advise?


----------



## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Paint and Hammer said:


> You know what though...with that said, now that I have a Festool system, that gives opportunity to go back to the old ways.
> 
> This dustless drywall is super great for occupied repaints for things like taking out a built in toilet paper holder, other wall patches and repairs. Problem, as talked about is the drytimes.
> 
> ...


Never ever ever leave premixed in the box !!!!!!!!!! :no: Get a clean 5er and dump your premixed in that, when you're done use a wet rag and clean the sides of the can, put a dab of water on top and put the lid on tight.:thumbsup:


----------



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Well since this thread has survived this long.

What are the disadvantages of these quick setting products for patching?
As I said previously, I have no experience with these and have only ever used joint compound (sheetrock) and work on something else while it sets.

From what im hearing, is best to use a quick dry to fill and tape, then cover and finish with something else thats easier to work?

Maybe I will post this in a new thread


----------



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

HQP2005 said:


> What are the disadvantages of these quick setting products for patching?



Depending on the product by USG: 5, 20, 45 or 90 they all claim to set in the amount of time stated by product number. Therefore 20 minute compound is dry enough to be re-coated 20 minutes later. Conventional compound takes usually overnight. I use all of them except the 5 because that sets up in my mixing pan before I can use it. Finally, IMO you can't really sand them much until fully dry of which take several hours more.


----------

