# Wallpapering Tips



## Monkeyboy

Hiya Team. 

Just wondering if any of you have any tips for Paperhanging. I'm trying to establish myself as an exclusive paperhanger to Interior designers. I am noticing that each paper has it's own nuances which make every time I hang a different experience. I am finding that sometimes the relaxing time given in the instructions is wrong and this is just one issue I am finding out. So if any of you have any tips to offer it would be great to hear them. Whether it is a tip to make things easier or something you have noticed with different papers it would be great to hear whatever you have. 

cheers 

Mike


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## chrisn

Monkeyboy said:


> Hiya Team.
> 
> Just wondering if any of you have any tips for Paperhanging. I'm trying to establish myself as an exclusive paperhanger to Interior designers. I am noticing that each paper has it's own nuances which make every time I hang a different experience. I am finding that sometimes the relaxing time given in the instructions is wrong and this is just one issue I am finding out. So if any of you have any tips to offer it would be great to hear them. Whether it is a tip to make things easier or something you have noticed with different papers it would be great to hear whatever you have.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Mike


 good luck with that, keep working and learning


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## Monkeyboy

I have been a Painter and Decorator for 30 years now. Have done paperhanging on and off over the years. Now it seems interior designers are recommending it more and more and as I am getting wearier and wearier, designer work pays well . I have just got a contract for a job for quite a well known personality around town. The paper is costing $10k and it is only feature walls in 6 rooms. And each paper is different so am a bit nervous. Have allowed for a couple of errors in my quote. Any ideas or knowledge on the following papers;

Osborn and Little
Designers Guild
Elitis Glass
Harlequin
Paradisio
Andrew Martin
Rasch Glam and Glory


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## Epoxy Pro

We have been getting asked more and more about papering. I think it's time for me to learn. Where is Bill he can teach me :thumbup::whistling2:


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## daArch

Monkeyboy,

I am relatively self taught, and through lots of trial and error have progressed to the level of decent hack :thumbsup: 


There is nothing like hands-on training/learning. Installing higher end papers is very difficult to book-learn because, as you note, different papers have different nuances, as do different pastes, surfaces, rooms, preps coats, tools, etc. 

I will note that most of those papers you mention recommend or actually demand a blankstock liner be installed first. 

There was a book published once, *"The Complete Guide to Wallpapering"* by David Groff. Unfortunately, being written in the very early 90's it is sorely out of date, and although it does contain some rudimentary help, I personally and vehemently disagree with a lot of his practices. 

I would suggest that you ask an experienced paperhanger to assist you on any number of jobs and pick up tips, tricks, tools, & techniques. 

Still keeping in mind that there is no one absolutely correct way to hang any paper. As I've noted many times, if you ask four paperhangers the same question, you will get five different answers, and that's on a good day. 

Where do you live? We may be able to point you in the direction of a hanger who is top quality that may (or may not) be willing to help.

There is a trade organization now called the Wallcovering Installers Association (fka NGPP). In it are some of the best hangers in the country, yet be aware there are no qualifications to belong except a negotiable check, and thus there are also many hacks who I would not let hang the inside of a doghouse. Although the WIA is considering future instructional classes, I can only assume that management will screw that up also, so don't hold your breath. 

So let us know where you live and we might be able to steer you toward someone who can help tutor you.


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## daArch

cdpainting said:


> We have been getting asked more and more about papering. I think it's time for me to learn. Where is Bill he can teach me :thumbup::whistling2:


If I tried to teach, you would end up knowing less than you do now. 

Those who can, do; and those who can't, teach. I can't teach.


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## ProWallGuy

"Any tips" is way too general. As you mentioned, all papers are different. A tip for one might be detrimental to another.


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## Underdog

Monkeyboy said:


> Hiya Team.
> 
> Just wondering if any of you have any tips for Paperhanging. I'm trying to establish myself as an exclusive paperhanger to Interior designers. I am noticing that each paper has it's own nuances which make every time I hang a different experience. I am finding that sometimes the relaxing time given in the instructions is wrong and this is just one issue I am finding out. So if any of you have any tips to offer it would be great to hear them. Whether it is a tip to make things easier or something you have noticed with different papers it would be great to hear whatever you have.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Mike






Monkeyboy said:


> I have been a Painter and Decorator for 30 years now. Have done paperhanging on and off over the years. Now it seems interior designers are recommending it more and more and as I am getting wearier and wearier, designer work pays well . I have just got a contract for a job for quite a well known personality around town. The paper is costing $10k and it is only feature walls in 6 rooms. And each paper is different so am a bit nervous. Have allowed for a couple of errors in my quote. Any ideas or knowledge on the following papers;
> 
> Osborn and Little
> Designers Guild
> Elitis Glass
> Harlequin
> Paradisio
> Andrew Martin
> Rasch Glam and Glory


I didn't have to edit these posts to make my point.

Simply have $15,000 in reserve in case something goes wrong.

Hate to toot the informational thread again but that's what I've evolved into. A paperhanger who does almost nothing but unusual, exotic materials for high end designers and decorators.
It's making me want to retire after 42 years of installing... and I can't and wouldn't teach.



:cowboy:


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## Gwarel

Underdog said:


> I didn't have to edit these posts to make my point.
> 
> Simply have $15,000 in reserve in case something goes wrong.
> 
> Hate to toot the informational thread again but that's what I've evolved into. A paperhanger who does almost nothing but unusual, exotic materials for high end designers and decorators.
> It's making me want to retire after 42 years of installing... and I can't and wouldn't teach.
> 
> 
> 
> :cowboy:


UD: I feel the frustration and burn out in most of your posts lately. It sounds to me as if you may have the upper hand in your market but you haven't figured out how to take advantage of it. Why don't you just double your rates so you have time to figure things out and slow down a bit?


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## Underdog

Gwarel said:


> UD: I feel the frustration and burn out in most of your posts lately. It sounds to me as if you may have the upper hand in your market but you haven't figured out how to take advantage of it. Why don't you just double your rates so you have time to figure things out and slow down a bit?


 Oh my gosh, I'm burned out. I didn't recognize it. Burn out when I was younger simply meant I was tired of working.
The feeling I've had lately, you're right, is more of a frustration. But I'm having a hard time getting past it. I'm skeered of wallpaper of late.
I haven't even discussed all of my recent rough jobs.
I feel like a teenager and just want to show up, find the problem, and leave. If it weren't for the no paycheck thing...

I have slowly started raising my prices though, not enough probably. I hate nickel and dimeing people to death. I did go on an estimate recently and just plain didn't care if I got the job and priced myself out of it; and got the bid. Who woulda thunk there was that much money in wallpaper labor.
Unfortunately I have to drive so far (long story) I can't really afford to take too many chances.
Y'all seem so much more financially stable than me. I'm basically a workhorse that has made a lot of decorators dependent on me but I can't bring myself to change things up too fast.

Thanks for noticing enough to comment though.


:cowboy:


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## Gwarel

Financially stable I'm not, mentally stable just barely. I've seen some of your work and being a paperhanger means every job we do we have to solve a lot of problems. That's worth more than just x$/roll. If you are delivering on the designer's challenges I guarantee they are making good money from it and looking for more. All I'm saying is don't sell yourself short. We're probably all gonna burn out sooner or later, no reason to leave money on the table in the process. Hang in there my friend!


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## chrisn

Gwarel said:


> Financially stable I'm not, mentally stable just barely. I've seen some of your work and being a paperhanger means every job we do we have to solve a lot of problems. That's worth more than just x$/roll. If you are delivering on the designer's challenges I guarantee they are making good money from it and looking for more. All I'm saying is don't sell yourself short. We're probably all gonna burn out sooner or later, no reason to leave money on the table in the process. Hang in there my friend!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O1v_7T6p8U


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## Epoxy Pro

We just looked at a Dr. office where almost all of the wallpaper seams failed. It's been up for 5+ yrs. A year or so ago a sewer pipe let loose in their waiting room, what ever they did here is no signs of water or crap (literally). Some sort of enzyme was used and right after that the wallpaper seams started failing. No bubbling or any other failure points except just about every seam.

I am by no means even a Greenhorn hanger so I don't know what to use to fix it.

It's a heavy canvas feel, textured feel. I would add pics but can't for some reason.

What can be used on the seams to seal them back up? 

I would have said to call a pro paper guy but if this fails again we are just stripping it and painting it instead.


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## daArch

I am NOT a commercial vinyl jockey. PWG does a lot of that sh!t.

HOWEVER, I had an extensive seam repair in the men's locker room of a local Country Club (Walpole). It was a tricky process of getting clay base adhesive into the popped seams and then using heat to release the "memory" curl of the vinyl so the edges would lay back down. 

A hairdryer does NOT produce enough heat to be quick and efficient. And professional vinyl jockeys would prolly use a blow torch - CAREFULLY. I used a heat gun that's hotter than a hairdryer but not as hot as a paint stripper.


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## Underdog

cdpainting said:


> It's a heavy canvas feel, textured feel. I would add pics but can't for some reason.
> 
> What can be used on the seams to seal them back up?


 I was very successful with a product I believe was called "Power Grip".
It had kind of a Liquid Nails feel to it but more pliable and forgiving, but very fast in the tack department.

Cost you a few bucks to experiment with.


:cowboy:


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## Underdog

Nope... Power Grab


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## chrisn

Underdog said:


> Nope... Power Grab


I bet that stuff is just a pure delight to remove


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## Gwarel

I agree with Arch, just try the clay base. Open them up no farther than you have to and remove any crusty old paste, grease them up on the wall and material and let them book for a while, maybe heat them if necessary, and then work them back together. You will have a visible line wherever you pulled them back to, not much you can do about that.


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## daArch

And of course, there is always THIS method:


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## journeymanPainter

When I was an apprentice coming behind the vinyl hangers I would pull the vinyl up a bit, wipe the ADHESIVE(for all you picky guys out there) with water, brush on a butt loss of the clay based stuff, smooth it down, and gently wrap the vinyl around the reveals abd quickly dry the adhesive with a heat gun. Don't get it to close to the vinyl though, it could burn it.


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## Epoxy Pro




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## daArch

The top one would be easy to get some paste into and then heat it and lay it down.

The lower pic I would get a 1 1/2 " putty knife into the seam to lift a little (not a bad idea to test the adhesion on the whole seam), get some paste in, and again heat and lay down.

Those pix show not a difficult fix IF that is commercial vinyl. If it is residential paper backed vinyl, forget any attempt.


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## chrisn

daArch said:


> The top one would be easy to get some paste into and then heat it and lay it down.
> 
> The lower pic I would get a 1 1/2 " putty knife into the seam to lift a little (not a bad idea to test the adhesion on the whole seam), get some paste in, and again heat and lay down.
> 
> Those pix show not a difficult fix IF that is commercial vinyl. If it is residential paper backed vinyl, forget any attempt.[/QUOTE]
> 
> :thumbsup: for sure


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## Gwarel

CD, once you get them set you might cover them with some blue tape till the next day to help hold them together and keep air out. Just be careful when you pull it to pull up or down and not out. Also......sometimes nothing works.


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## daArch

Gwarel said:


> CD, once you get them set you might cover them with some blue tape till the next day to help hold them together and keep air out. Just be careful when you pull it to pull up or down and not out. Also......sometimes nothing works.


I tell ya, staples ALWAYS work


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## jacob33

daArch said:


> I tell ya, staples ALWAYS work


 
I think the super glue with a syringe would work too:jester:


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## Underdog

jacob33 said:


> I think the super glue with a syringe would work too:jester:


 I have done that and it is so much fun... plus you can commit crimes right after because you don't have any fingerprints.


:cowboy:


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## chrisn

jacob33 said:


> I think the super glue with a syringe would work too:jester:


nope, the super glue sticks inside the syringe:yes:


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## daArch

chrisn said:


> nope, the super glue sticks inside the syringe:yes:


Geee, HOW do we know that :whistling2:


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## Monkeyboy

Thank you everyone for all this information. Someone in a thread said it is hard to give tips because every paper and paste is so different. That is why we need to hear the tips. If you find out something, then post it. I have so many stories to tell of, lets call them issues, that I have had to deal with over the years that would help everyone but I haven't had a forum until now. Now that I am linked to this thread when you post something it comes to my inbox and then to my memory bank. Keep posting your wallpaper tales. I in turn will tell you my tales. Every tale helps


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## Monkeyboy

Here's my Story Folks

I am from New Zealand. I have been a Painter and Decorator for 30 years now. My father and grandfather were also from the trade so I have an inbred gene that goes through my blood. I did my apprenticeship in the 80's but unfortunately a lot of the techniques I learnt have gone by the wayside due to fabrication. Things like graining and marbling. Wallpaper was also one of the things that went out of fashion, but it was something I was good at and I enjoyed. Given the nature of painting here in NZ it has always been seen as an easy trade to get into and therefore extremely competitive with a lot of cowboys in the game. Because of this Over the last 30 years I have tried everything I can to get out of the trade but something keeps drawing me back  In 2011 Christchurch had a massive earthquake that destroyed a lot of our city. It also damaged the vast majority of houses in the city. Lets say around 100,000 homes needed to be repaired. Therefore, there was a lot of work and it was insurance paid. Hence, the rate and demand for painters was enormous. The problem was that the insurance companies gave all the work to builders who clipped the ticket and in the end we were not getting the full rate. That said it has been the best we have ever had so I am not complaining too much. But I have been trying to make as much as I can, and for many reasons have continued the struggle as I have done for the the last 30 years. Sometimes great other times ****. Builders shafting me as well as employees.

So here I am thinking that I can do pretty well from specialising. I currently have 3 designers who are giving me work. This current job is probably the best job I have been given. Especially for name dropping around the traps. There is a lot of exclusive and wealthy homes that need fixing so this current job will help.

That's about it for now. 

Keep the discussion going. It really helps.

Cheers 

Mike


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## Monkeyboy

ProWallGuy said:


> "Any tips" is way too general. As you mentioned, all papers are different. A tip for one might be detrimental to another.


Agreed. But if you tell me that this paper stated in the instructions to soak for 2 minutes but really it needs to soak for 8 minutes (and I have had this happen, just can't remember the paper), then next time I use this paper I will be sure to test it first.

And then I'll post it here for your information too.


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## daArch

Great post, Mike.

If you need a tip for specific aspect, please ASK.

After 40+ years in the trade, you can imagine I could not begin to list tips.

But given a specific subject, or even one word, I could find some tidbit stashed away amongst the toys in the attics of my life. 

(Sorry for the mixed musical metaphor - mental midget of the 70's)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSuyAq0OMgs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f7RqEsydYY


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## Monkeyboy

I am currently having this issue with the designer about corners and overlapping. She doesn't like the look and I am saying but it is not for aesthetics it is for protection. Even with removing the backing from each paper you still get a distinct impression. And due to the earthquake I have seen heaps of reasons why you should not wrap around corners. 

Would be interested to hear your thoughts DaArch. 

And anyone else for that matter.


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## Monkeyboy

Underdog said:


> ...
> 
> Simply have $15,000 in reserve in case something goes wrong.
> 
> :cowboy:


Yeah bit concerned about that. This latest job is $10K for the paper. Stuff that up and I wont be happy. I did quote for 2 extra rolls.  That allows for 10
% to go wrong


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## Underdog

Monkeyboy said:


> I am currently having this issue with the designer about corners and overlapping. She doesn't like the look and I am saying but it is not for aesthetics it is for protection. Even with removing the backing from each paper you still get a distinct impression. And due to the earthquake I have seen heaps of reasons why you should not wrap around corners.
> 
> Would be interested to hear your thoughts DaArch.
> 
> And anyone else for that matter.


 I like your thread Monkeyboy but this post confuses me.


:cowboy:


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## Underdog

Monkeyboy said:


> Yeah bit concerned about that. This latest job is $10K for the paper. Stuff that up and I wont be happy. I did quote for 2 extra rolls.  That allows for 10
> % to go wrong


 I just got off the worst job I can remember. Basically it made me be extra careful not to go too far on a job that I'm not totally confident in.

The manufacturers say 2 or 3 strips then examine it but even that can't save you sometimes.


:cowboy:


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## Monkeyboy

So to clarify. 

When I go around corners, both internal and external I take the paper around the corner about 5mm or 1/4 inch and then overlap the next piece. On external corners especially it is quite noticeable. The designer does not like the look of it (understandably) but as a paperhanger I do it for the protection as well as for retaining the pattern (walls are never really square). There seems to be varying opinions about whether to just wrap it around the corners or overlap as I was taught. Some paperhangers suggest splicing around a 1/4 to 1 inch around a corner. 

So the question or discussion point I'm trying to open is around what do you do in corners both internally and externally.


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## chrisn

I guess I am just dense, but I don't understand the over lapping thing, I have never done that and still cannot understand why you would? What exactly is it protecting?


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## Monkeyboy

chrisn said:


> I guess I am just dense, but I don't understand the over lapping thing, I have never done that and still cannot understand why you would? What exactly is it protecting?


So when I come to a corner I will take the drop around the corner about a 1/4 inch. The next drop will then be placed over this piece. 

Reason 1. Walls are never truly square. Even if they are out by half a mm (millimetre - thats stuff all  ) then it will screw with your pattern.

Reason 2. If the building moves then the seams will separate on external corners and on internal corners the paper rounds. I have seen and experienced this in my town where we have recently had a major earthquake. When I did my apprenticeship it was taught this way (30 years ago) and it took this long to show us why. 

Reason 3. External corners get a rough time from banging. Overlapping helps protect the damage. 


But I wonder if modern building techniques have superceded this system. I do have old school techniques so am wondering if they are all still relavant.


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## daArch

Mike,

A) I do not split outside corners, I wrap them. If the corner is SO outa plumb as to totally screw up the next piece, figure out the best compromise for trimming the next strip in.

B) For your inside corners, you overlap too much (IMO). First the real reason WHY professional hangers split sheets at the inside corners is because if you wrap them, when the paper dries, it shrinks and pulls away from the corner, it's called BRIDGING. (Tell that to the decorina). 

Now to negate your "ridge". Let's first get the strips referenced so you can follow. You are hanging left to right. You've just hung Strip 1 and the corner is about 5" to its right. Strip 2 will be split into two sections, 2L and 2R (for left and right - 2L will fill that approx 5" space, 2R will begin the next wall)

After you hang Strip 1, measure EXACTLY the longest distance to the corner. I take my rule and run it up or down the corner until I determine the furthest distance. You discover that measurement is 4 7/8". (BTW, Strip 2 has been pasted, booked, and expanded. And when booked the edges line up EXACTLY) Now split Strip 2 so that 2L is 4 15/16 " wide. Hang 2L. Because the corner is way out of plumb, you may have from 1/16" to 1/4" onto the next wall. I trim that down to 1/16" from top to bottom. Some folks like 1/8", but anything more will show as your ridge does. Actually my preference is 1/16 to 3/32. How do I trim to 1/16 " ? I have a plastic smother that I only use for that whose edge is kept squared off. No one has ever complained about a "ridge" 1/16 out from the corner. And even when hanging a vinyl coated paper, you will not need any vinyl to vinyl GLUE to stick to that 1/16 overlap

Now hang Strip 2R. Your laser level cross hairs will keep the strip plumb and the pattern elements horizontal to the previous wall. 

Because the corner is out of plumb, some of Strip 2R will overlap onto the previous wall (Strip 2L). I am assuming that after 30 years you can trim through ONE layer of paper without scoring the previous strip. Do that to Strip 2R. I use a fresh blue blade for that trim. 

Yes, you will lose some pattern, that is unavoidable, but 1/16" is not too bad, and tell the decoirina that you can only do so much with a corner that is out of plumb.

NOW, the ULTIMATE way to come out of a corner (one other hanger here does this, was it Gwarel who mentioned it a while ago?) is to take a NEW strip and split it so the pattern matches at eye level. This will require ordering probably another double roll. I used to do this, but have adopted the split single strip as that is the industry standard around here. I've also reduced my pattern loss to 1/16. 

I hope you followed that, it's difficult to describe via the written word.


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## Gwarel

daArch said:


> I hope you followed that, it's difficult to describe via the written word.


I got it, well said!


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## Monkeyboy

Yes I got all that.  Great explanation. Except over here in NZ we use the metric system. So I am trying to mentally get the 1/4 - 1/8 - 1/16 (8mm - 4mm - 2mm).
I generally am not too concerned with my internal corners although I like the idea of making them smaller. This would minimise the pattern loss to almost nothing  I do also use another drop (strip) at corners to ensure the pattern is maintained. I usually find another part of the room for the 2R so it is not wasted.

As for external corners I think I will start wrapping them. When I went through my apprenticeship we had to overlap both internal and external and it was up to half an inch. The main reason we were told was, because of earthquakes and movement of the house. Now with the recent earthquakes that we have had (which was around 10,000 in 12 months back in 2011, some quite significant) that there are lots of signs of really bad paperhanging. Mainly from the DIY brigade but also some terrible professionals no doubt. This is especially seen on external corners where the seams on both sides of a wrapped piece have been exposed. Bridging in internal corners is standard on most older homes with so much movement of the houses.

However with modern buildings they are generally pretty square or not so bad that they cannot be overcome to get the pattern back on line. And if it is an older home and well out then it is also easy to explain to the client that this is what it is and we can only do our best. 

And i had a good chuckle when you said that after 30 years I should be able to cut through only one piece. Well yes for the most part, but I prefer scissors for cutting the excess at corners so to eliminate this problem. Because guess what, it still happens. I am going along nicely and then whoops, grr and now to fix it  (there's another thread coming soon. How to fix mistakes tears bubbles and wrinkles)


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## daArch

Mike,

to convert many types of units into many other types of units down load and use convert.exe It's free. 

http://wscope.com/convert.htm

1/16 = 1.5875 mm

3/32 = 2.38125 mm :thumbup: :thumbup:

Many times I do have to overlap an "external" corner, like when there is a dormer and the sloped ceiling needs papering and there is an angled outside corner. I hang one surface, wrap around, trim to 1/2 inch or so and THEN feather that edge with QUICK dry lite spackle. It takes more time and correct timing to allow the spackle to dry, but it looks ridgeless. 

If folks are insistent on having the inside corners wrapped by half an inch and overlapped, you can try the same method. Once in a while I have been known to hang the next piece without waiting for the spackle to dry :whistling2:

And yes, I am glad you understand that Strip 2R might be used else where AS CAN ALSO the new left hand piece from the new strip. I would find that in most rooms I only used one strip more than my present method. 

Tears (assuming you mean rips, not moisture from the eyes - another heteronym) can be carefully put back together making sure the substrate is tucked under and any visible line can be colored. I like the Caran d'ache water soluble crayons










They are expensive but invaluable. I even color some white seams with them. For fine work I have a tiny artist brush that I moisten and then rub it on any number of crayons to mix the right color. I have worked magic with those damn things. 

Bubbles? Chase them while the paper is still wet, OR poke a pin hole and roll the air out.

Wrinkles? Gotta get them before the paper dries. First try to sweep 'em out with your plastic smoother, then roll em out, roll perpendicular to the wrinkle.

Don't worry, I think I have made every mistake possible, and have prolly invented a few no one thought possible. :thumbsup:


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## Underdog

If God had meant for us to use metric, He would have made the metric allen wrenches fit in the slots.


Put this in the PZ if you need to.

:cowboy:


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## Monkeyboy

Underdog said:


> If God had meant for us to use metric, He would have made the metric allen wrenches fit in the slots.
> 
> 
> Put this in the PZ if you need to.
> 
> :cowboy:


I know imagine my annoyance when I have a US imperial allen wrench.


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## Monkeyboy

DaARch your information is invaluable. You have given me confidence in so many ways. You are confirming techniques for me that I know, but were unsure of, but then you take it that step further and show me what it is to be a specialist paperhanger over a Painter and Decorator who does everything. 

And sometimes it is tears after the tear


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## daArch

Monkeyboy said:


> DaARch your information is invaluable. You have given me confidence in so many ways. You are confirming techniques for me that I know, but were unsure of, but then you take it that step further and show me what it is to be a specialist paperhanger over a Painter and Decorator who does everything.
> 
> And sometimes it is tears after the tear


Thanks Mike,

That happened to me when I went "public". First on two internet paperhangers list serves (PaperNet & the APN - both now defunct) and then when I joined the national trade organization.

I found that many of the tips, tricks, tools, and techniques I had learned on my own were employed by the top hangers in the country. Yes, while associating with them all, many of my practices were tweaked to incorporated their subtle differences, and hopefully others picked up tweaks from me. And obviously I was able to put completely new "tools" in my tool box. I think the most impactful actual tool was the laser level - oh, and also my paste machine. 

With the internet it is SOOOO much easier trading trade secrets than the old days where small bands of paperhangers had to form chapters and physically meet in order to discuss the trade. 

But communicating with others has allowed me to really advance my abilities further than I could ever have hoped or imagined.


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## daArch

Well, wouldn't you know it, today I was surprised with a non-woven. It was a Thibaut and I didn't even think of checking beforehand if it was a pulp or n-w. I ASSUMED it was just a normal decent quality Thibaut.

But this was a different n-w than I've seen before, it had the feel and look of a heavy duty bridging liner.

Six doubles in a dining room (the dining room is ready for T-giv, but not the kitchen), 58" drops above the chair rail, 22 strips.

What I do like about paste-the-wall non-wovens is to paste the wall, about three strips wide, lay the uncut bolt on the floor, and just pull the top up, lay it on the wall, cut the bottom, move the roll over, pull up the next top, hang, cut bottom, etc. And then trim the three tops at the same time. The paper never sees my table except to split corners. 

From knocking on the door, to driving away with check in hand, 5.5 hours (includes pack in, set up, prep, clean, tear down, pack out). AND it was only five miles away

I could get used to that.


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## Monkeyboy

daArch said:


> What I do like about paste-the-wall non-wovens is to paste the wall, about three strips wide, lay the uncut bolt on the floor, and just pull the top up, lay it on the wall, cut the bottom, move the roll over, pull up the next top, hang, cut bottom, etc. And then trim the three tops at the same time. The paper never sees my table except to split corners.
> 
> From knocking on the door, to driving away with check in hand, 5.5 hours (includes pack in, set up, prep, clean, tear down, pack out). AND it was only five miles away
> 
> I could get used to that.


That's what I love about Paste the Wall too. Although not sure i am as quick as that


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## Monkeyboy

daArch said:


> I found that many of the tips, tricks, tools, and techniques I had learned on my own were employed by the top hangers in the country. Yes, while associating with them all, many of my practices were tweaked to incorporated their subtle differences, and hopefully others picked up tweaks from me. And obviously I was able to put completely new "tools" in my tool box. I think the most impactful actual tool was the laser level - oh, and also my paste machine.
> 
> With the internet it is SOOOO much easier trading trade secrets than the old days where small bands of paperhangers had to form chapters and physically meet in order to discuss the trade.
> 
> But communicating with others has allowed me to really advance my abilities further than I could ever have hoped or imagined.


Love the laser level. Am looking at getting one this week

Have still yet to get into the pasting machine. I had one that never worked properly and ending up taking up time. It was a 2nd hand one, not sure of the brand, but I always just ended up going back to pasting by hand. But if I am pulling it out every day then it may pay to get one.


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## daArch

THE best laser lever for us is the PLS 180

I've tried, tested, and reviewed most others, this one beats all others. I DO have a Stanley Fat Max as a backup (at only $99, how could I pass it up)

Pasting machines are so different from each other. I went with the Ramco (now owned by Advance) 32" Paste Master. It was the least expensive of the three leading machines in that size range (Tapofix, Advance, Ramco) and it was the widest. The TapoFix is known to be the best built and the Advance is sturdy with a good paste delivery system. They are all different. Study well and choose wisely.

I am now NOT pulling out my machine if I only have about 10 strips to hang. I've timed the set up and tear down of a machine and the time it takes to paste strips VS the time to hand paste, and ten strips is about the break even point. 

But when you get ready to make that decision, ask again and hopefully I can pull out my research on the different machines.


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## Windmilldecor

I usually just throw them away and test a piece of paper to see if it expands and how it responds or go to their website


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