# First Cabinet job.. Spray cabinet coat?



## will (Aug 15, 2008)

Hi Guys,

Been out of the paint game for a few years and back to just drywall. Got a job offer though to paint some interior doors and kitchen cabinets though coming up.

Interior doors not worried about, done plenty just shooting with impervo. This would be my first cabinet job though. Cabinet frames would be just sprayed on the wall. Cabinet doors taken off and hung in basement and sprayed.

So my concerns and plan so far is to remove everything, clean with alcohol/sand down/fill old hardware holes with bondo. Hand/foam roll BIN on cabinets and cabinet doors.

Then using titan440i with 440i and Graco Rac X FineFinish 210 or 310 tip hit them with 2 coats of....something. Was suggested using Cabinet Coat.

Has anyone used this product/sprayed it? They claim you don't have to prime but these are pretty dark cabinets. They are smooth finish, not an oak I have to fill in at least. But figured a quick roll of BIN would help cover before 2 coats of something.

Or maybe just shoot them all with Latex impervo?

Any advice or anything I might not realize would be greatly appreciated

Thanks so much!


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## Lee Decorating Corp. (Oct 6, 2011)

Never used cabinet coat, but why roll the Bin? Just spray it.


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## will (Aug 15, 2008)

Lee Decorating Corp. said:


> Never used cabinet coat, but why roll the Bin? Just spray it.


Mostly just cleanup for the BIN.. I may spray it though. Thinking about biting the bullet and picking up a Proshot FF for this/door/2 other trim houses I can pickup if i want them.

Assuming no issues running BIN through the ProshotFF.

Thanks


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

You should try to hire someone with cabinet experience to help you with this job. Could end up saving you some money in the long run.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Spraying cabinet coat is fine if you lay the doors flat...I've never attempted to spray vertical stuff like a cabinet carcass because it has a tendency to run..I always brush out the cabinet carcass and it levels out like an oil with that paint.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Slow route: I would clean them and spray 2 coats white shellac primer (sandable in 30min or less), sand, then spray 1 coat of cabinet coat or Impervo, sand, then 1 money coat. 

Fast route: clean them, spray 2 coats color matched lacquer undercoater, sand good, then spray 2 coats of water clear lacquer finish.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> You should try to hire someone with cabinet experience to help you with this job. Could end up saving you some money in the long run.


I agree, painting cabinets isn't something you can do well if you don't have the equipment/space to spray and skills. I am re-clearing some new ones next week that who ever did them has no business painting cabinets. Finish was really rough, and there were runs in several places.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I just read a great thread Rcon started detailing out the prep process. I wish I had read it before today. we cleaned the cabs with Krud Kutter gloss off, sanded with 220, wiped down with alcohol, and sprayed the first coat of cabinet coat. We got fish-eyes in several places, which sucks. Will sand them tomorrow , spray BIN with rattle can, and 2nd coat. 
We shot the doors hanging vertical using a new 310 tip and 440 set on medium pressure. Looked awesome. We shot the first door and then stopped and waited to see if it would sag. Last Craftsman clued me into that tip. After confirming we were cool, shot the rest, no runs but as mentioned occasional fisheyes. We wiped a bunch with alcohol a 2nd time after seeing the fisheyes and I think that helped. Btw we cranked the heater. 
If anyone has other tips for fixing the fisheye after dry please chime in. Thx.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

fish eyes = BIN IMHO of course.


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Scotiadawg said:


> fish eyes = BIN IMHO of course.



I'm curious, what about the BIN leads you to believe that it is the cause of the fisheyes?

I've never had issues with it. I think the only difference in my process is two coats of BIN, and I'm running it through an HVLP, not rattle cans.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Damon T said:


> If anyone has other tips for fixing the fisheye after dry please chime in. Thx.


Using cabinet coat as a primer is a SCAM! 

That's why I said spray the shellac coverstain first as a quick dry primer, earlier. This would show you your contaminated spots! Shellac is very easy to sand or you could simply wipe the fisheye out with alcohol and recoat without building a thick film. Then spray your cabinet coat without worrying about fisheyes in your final coats.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Csheils said:


> I'm curious, what about the BIN leads you to believe that it is the cause of the fisheyes?
> 
> I've never had issues with it. I think the only difference in my process is two coats of BIN, and I'm running it through an HVLP, not rattle cans.


Oh damn I should a phrased that different ! I meant BIN _cures/seals_ fisheyes ! Sorry about that ol bean!:yes:. I luv my BIN !!!!!:thumbsup:


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Gotcha, and thanks.

I was thinking maybe those rattle cans are inferior products or something by your original wording.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Csheils said:


> Gotcha, and thanks.
> 
> I was thinking maybe those rattle cans are inferior products or something by your original wording.


Another hard day and kind of punch druk I guess!


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

i really cant believe there are people on here suggesting the use of rattle can bin on cabinets..please dont come near any of my projects. Real cabinet shops do not use airless sprayers..or paint. It is all about laquers through air assisted or at the very least HVLP. laquers that require a catalyst. as far as priming goes what is the existing finish?


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Geez here we go.

I should clarify. I was referring to the actual product contained in the rattle cans as being an inferior product to a gallon of BIN, thinking perhaps there were alterations to the formula to allow for the aersol applications. That being said, there in lies the question.

I am not a cabinet shop, but I do use several different guns for several different applications, including lacquer.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

Csheils-

that response wasnt directed at you..if i read your previous post right it says you use an hvlp, 2 coats of bin:thumbsup: My old man has a custom milwork/cabinet shop. whenever they do a cabinet refinish they actually uninstall the units. send them to dunk tank where the solution completely strips them without sanding/harming the wood. we then then set them up in a booth and spray them out depending on what they want for finish. if if i had to do it on site..it depends on the finish that was already on their. if its a laquer and you can closely match the chemical formula(need the can) you could go right over it with another laquer. if not cleaning, sanding thoroughly so the whole surface is scuffed, spraying two coats of bin..then topcoating 2 coats might not be a bad bet. taking the doors off/doing sepratley with proper masking on the actual units


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

HeadHoncho said:


> Using cabinet coat as a primer is a SCAM!
> 
> That's why I said spray the shellac coverstain first as a quick dry primer, earlier. This would show you your contaminated spots! Shellac is very easy to sand or you could simply wipe the fisheye out with alcohol and recoat without building a thick film. Then spray your cabinet coat without worrying about fisheyes in your final coats.


I totally agree! In fact the fisheyes we ran into were worse than I thought , and I'm kicking myself for not priming with bin first. That was my rule of thumb previously, and somehow I got stuck on the idea of using cabinet coat as the primer. Dang! Spent a lot of time today sanding out crap and priming with bin. Felt like a dummy. Oh well. Hope tomorrow goes better.


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