# speaking of window glazing...



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

With these windows I'm totally reglazing (Harry Homeowner here  ) the one process I have liked the least is *back-puttying* - never was able to quickly and cleanly (to my satisfaction) lay a bead in the bed. The "front" glazing has always been good for me. It's just getting the right amount evenly and cleanly into the muntin before setting the glass 

And *tsevnami* (sorry, bro, can't get over that handle - hey, blame tooled) mentioned the "new latex glaze that comes in caulk like tubes", not that I am going on a hunt for that, but I was wondering if anyone has used acyrlic/silicone caulk to back-putty glass? And was it successful and long living. 

OR, if anyone has tips on being able to lay a bead of glazing quicker and cleaner. I've tried snaking, troweling, and fingering. I've tried gooping it in and then cutting excess with putty knife. I've tried warning it up and thuinning it down to make it more squishy. 

It's just the part of glazing that I was never "fun" with.


OH, and if any one cuts and pastes the DIY closed thread script - they're dead meat


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

it would be in bold too . . .

Do not back putty with caulk, especially silicone. It sounds like a good idea now, but when the glazing has to get redone it is the biggest PITA ever. I did a church from 1882 last year and when it was restored this is what they did. Not only was it really bad for mold and the paint inside the window but you had to dig and dig and dig to get the stuff out. Terrible idea. it is really easy to bed with the latex stuff, you can pick it up at a local True Value or something. I found the trick was how do you put in the glass? Put the bottom in with the glass angled towards you and slowly press it into place. Once it is pointed in you can go on the inside and clean up what ever worked its way up on the inside. Sometimes best to let it dry first. But I just got done typing this hopefully helpful post and realized that it was for someone who is hurting my feelings . . .


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

hire a professional painter


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> it would be in bold too . . .
> 
> Do not back putty with caulk, especially silicone. It sounds like a good idea now, but when the glazing has to get redone it is the biggest PITA ever. I did a church from 1882 last year and when it was restored this is what they did. Not only was it really bad for mold and the paint inside the window but you had to dig and dig and dig to get the stuff out. Terrible idea. it is really easy to bed with the latex stuff, you can pick it up at a local True Value or something. I found the trick was how do you put in the glass? Put the bottom in with the glass angled towards you and slowly press it into place. Once it is pointed in you can go on the inside and clean up what ever worked its way up on the inside. Sometimes best to let it dry first. But I just got done typing this hopefully helpful post and realized that it was for someone who is hurting my feelings . . .


Thanks Tsun, I wasn't thinking of straight silicone , but actually the Dynaflex 230 - actually I don't know if it is a silicone mix. says it's "mildew resistant". But I hear you loud and clear about removal.




Dave Mac said:


> hire a professional painter


I would Dave ...... if I knew any that could do as good a job as I :jester:


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

It's a matter of getting the consitancy of the putty right and using a nicely shaped and clean putty knife. You can also get away with using a 1" or 1 1/2" chisel. Use a good linseed oil putty and if it's tacky/sticky then dump it onto some newspaper which will soak up a lot of the oil. Wet your hands (I sometimes spit on them) and take a lump about the size of a tennis ball then roll and work it like a ball of dough until the putty doesn't stick to your hands any more. 

Push the putty into the glazing (the timber around the glass should be primed and dry) all the way around, put your putty knife flat edge (with the curve facing up) into a corner at an angle and start knifing it to the other corner. Gently remove any excess and leave any bits left on the glass to remove later or the next day until it's set up a little so that you don't risk messing up your nice work. Some people find the chisel easier than a putty knife

If the consistancy is right and you use a good knife then it should be really easy to do :thumbsup:


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

One mistake many people make, is make sure to run your line even with the other sides line, otherwise you'll see the backside of the glazing when looking through the window.

I usually pancake my glazing into a piece of cardboard to get alot of the oil out.

Check out YouTube though. I was watching a crapload of videos on it not so long back checking out different peoples ways of doing it. Will see alot of "my way is the only right way", but in the end they all look the same so it's up to you.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Tooled and JNLP, correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you are describing the actual process of glazing - which is basicaly how I do it.

What I'm not as proficient at is the BACK-PUTTY. The thin bed of glazing on the interior "lip" of the muntin ...... oh damn, I do not have the right vocabulary.

One picture IS worth a thousand words. The bed of putty on the surface the arrows are pointing out. 










Is that what you guys are describing? Or did I confuse ?

OH, and BTW, I have always liked Penetrol to "prime" the wood. Sometimes with a little boiled linseed in it. I feel it gives a little tack and prevents dragging and coiling.


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

Sorry Bill I should read posts peopery before I reply :bangin:

You can place the putty around the glass instead of the bead. That can be a lot easier than putting it on the timber.

If you can't do it that way, the easiest way to back putty if you have problems getting a thin enough bead on is to stick a little putty on each edge, put your glass in then pin it into place, putting the pins in where you have some putty behind the glass.

Once you've glazed the window just go inside and press some putty into the gaps with your fingers/thumb and use your knife to trim it. It can be tricky to get the right amount along the back sometimes.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Yah, I've done it from the inside when repainting interior and the back putty has dried and fallen out, but I really have a personal dislike for that method. And I've tried placing it on the glass prior to setting, but that was never good for me. 

I've just "primed" the wood and in about fifteen will set some panes. I'll try to vary my method from pane to pane and take some pix so maybe we all can learn what works best. 

this is what I love about working on my own house - experimentation without loss of pay


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

I just bed some soft putty all the way around with my thumb or finger (sliding some putty up to the top of the inside of the opening) and then push the glass in. scrape off any excess, pin the glass in place and glaze. If it isn't primed then the putty doesn't stick too well. 

I haven't tried penetrol/linseed oil. I've always just used primer because I know the putty sticks nicely to it without pulling back off when it's being knifed out.

Good luck with that Bill. Don't go losing it and breaking any glass in frustration :thumbsup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

OK, there is no better way or easier way than what we've been doing all along. The only significant variable is the stiffness of the putty. I mixed enough penetrol/linseed in and kneaded it so it was about half again softer than for glazing (How much thinner? The right amount. :whistling2: It WAS really sticking to my hand) Just finger fill the corner bed, not loading up the corners, and set glass. Having it this sloppy made it easy to run a "pressurized" thumb around the perimeter until good contact was made all around and putty was ooozing out. 

I don't know what I was fearing. I guess we must have done too many in cooler months with old compound.


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

Bill, latex caulk does work well, i prefer the clear. and as was mentioned above, not so much that it will be seen beyond the muttin sp? or the glazing. Have fun.
steve


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

daArch said:


> this is what I love about working on my own house - experimentation without loss of pay


word.


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## DavidNTexas (May 26, 2009)

Try a little whiting to dry it out. That will dry it out without it getting real hard. Pour some whiting onto a piece of cardboard and roll the putty in it a little at a time until it is just right, just when it stops sticking to your fingers. If there isn't any whiting available, corn starch will work.

I have never heard of using Penetrol to prime with. It is basically an oil as is linseed oil. Be sure to put a coat of paint on your glazing before too long. Glazing compound and putty mildew easily.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

DavidNTexas said:


> Try a little whiting to dry it out. That will dry it out without it getting real hard. Pour some whiting onto a piece of cardboard and roll the putty in it a little at a time until it is just right, just when it stops sticking to your fingers. If there isn't any whiting available, corn starch will work.
> 
> I have never heard of using Penetrol to prime with. It is basically an oil as is linseed oil. Be sure to put a coat of paint on your glazing before too long. Glazing compound and putty mildew easily.



I used the Petetrol/linseed mix since the 70's. It's a LOT quicker to apply than paint. 

And yes, I prime the glazing when it skins. 

One of my favorite mixes was oil putty and glazing compoud (DAP 33) mixed together. But I can't find the real old fashioned putty any more.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Coming into this a little late but out of maybe a thousand panes I have done,I have never back puttied any of them.Just made sure they had 4 push pins. So, I guess I am a hack:blink::yes: If you have cleaned the mutton well( or whatever the hell they are called or spelled)a couple coats of paint on the inside should be all you need to seal them up.


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## DavidNTexas (May 26, 2009)

But the putty around the inside helps keep the glass from rattling when you walk in a wood frame house or when trains pass by.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

But the putty around the inside helps keep the glass from rattling when you walk in a wood frame house or when trains pass by.

I will not argue that, just have never done it and the glass does not rattle in my house and I have replaced MANY here alone.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I (thankfully) haven't done any in a while, but I also didn't put putty on the inside. Wouldn't that just create an unnecessary gap on the inside? Like Chrisn said, if it is clean, it will be tight. Use glazing to keep in place on the outside.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

There are a number of reasons for back putty. But let me say first, that when done correctly, the thickness of that layer is about 1/64". Maybe 3/128". 

The three reasons I can think of off the top of my head are:

Insulation
Stops the rattle
Secures and cushions the pane to minimize chance of breakage.


I've been doing it so long, I can't remember how I learned about it - it's just one of those things that I always accepted as the "correct way"


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I've been doing it so long, I can't remember how I learned about it - it's just one of those things that I always accepted as the "correct way"

Well you all damn New Englanders are ALWAYS right!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

chrisn said:


> I've been doing it so long, I can't remember how I learned about it - it's just one of those things that I always accepted as the "correct way"
> 
> Well you all damn New Englanders are ALWAYS right!


DAMN, I wish the rest of world would realize that !


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