# too dark after finish



## ripitn1/2 (Feb 24, 2010)

stained doors costumer loved them no says their too dark need to strip and bleach need direction on which route to take wood classics oil stain sandin sealer 2 coats oil varnish


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## WiseGuys Painting (Feb 22, 2010)

*too dark*

wow that sux. i would give them a very high price and see if they change their minds. is it just the doors or the the whole cabinet?


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## ripitn1/2 (Feb 24, 2010)

2 costume exterior doors looks great but too dark after they were happy need advice on lighting them


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

This is why I charge extra for interior staining. Did you give them a sample first to look at?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

johnpaint said:


> This is why I charge extra for interior staining. Did you give them a sample first to look at?


Gotta agree with John!:thumbsup:


Even if some of the prep is easier, never stain more cheaply than paint. Color hassles can be huge, especially on higher end stain work.


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## ripitn1/2 (Feb 24, 2010)

oh yes plenty of samples all were agreed upon they want to make them lighter now need some advice on the most practicle way to take care of this issue do i strip sand & bleach or get crazy with some wood dyes ?


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Are they paying???? If so Strip away!!! We do tons of doors,wether they picked the stain color or not,we will always stain an area of the door,then get them to approve it.After that it's ALL on them.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

What kind of wood and did you use a conditioner before you stained?


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## ripitn1/2 (Feb 24, 2010)

no conditioner new fir the work is not the problem they want to lighten them up now trying to come up with best sollution


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

If you had used a conditioner the wood work would have come out lighter, without any dark and light spots. I would not do fir without it.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

ripitn1/2 said:


> stained doors costumer loved them no says their too dark need to strip and bleach need direction on which route to take wood classics oil stain sandin sealer 2 coats oil varnish


Ok I think everyone is missing the OP question. The customer likes the job, he did a good job. The customer does not like the final product color after the sample was approved. He needs to lighten the color on the finished doors, how does he do that?

If the customer is paying for it or not is irrelevant, its his customer, he can do what he wants for them.


To answer the question......Strip, sand, strip, sand, and sand some more...re stain. Thats the best way I can think of, not really my wheelhouse.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

For what it would likely cost them to have the doors stripped, sanded, bleached, sanded, restained and resealed, it would be better for them (and you) if they got new doors. Probably cheaper for them and less risk to you.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Rcon said:


> For what it would likely cost them to have the doors stripped, sanded, bleached, sanded, restained and resealed, it would be better for them (and you) if they got new doors. Probably cheaper for them and less risk to you.


Not hardly.Most of the custom made oak doors that we re-finish run at least $5,000 and then you have to pay to have them installed. I could strip those both sides and refinish for about $1,200 Give or take!


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> Not hardly.Most of the custom made oak doors that we re-finish run at least $5,000 and then you have to pay to have them installed. I could strip those both sides and refinish for about $1,200 Give or take!


True enough Aaron - I wouldn't recommend replacing such an expensive door, I was thinking more along the lines of a standard fir door that retails for about $250-300 (didn't see that OP said custom exterior door), in such cases it is usually more cost effective to simply replace the door.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Rcon said:


> True enough Aaron - I wouldn't recommend replacing such an expensive door, I was thinking more along the lines of a standard fir door that retails for about $250-300 (didn't see that OP said custom exterior door), in such cases it is usually more cost effective to simply replace the door.


True!!


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## ripitn1/2 (Feb 24, 2010)

thanks for the comments fellas i dont know what they will end up deciding plenty of cash so they can go in any direction they want personally i dont want to strip them as far as replacing not even a option again thanks for the comments


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

One trait I've noticed is that the final sand grit on stain grade work affects the hue of the stain. The finer the sanding the lighter the color will be. Bigger pores, ie lower grit final sand, means bigger holes for dye, stain, and polyurethane to build up in. Many polyurethanes (alkyd or otherwise) have a natural orange warmth to them so even if you think you're applying a clear coat it may still have some color.

Was the prep on the door identical to the prep on the tester plank? Identical wood substrate?

If you're doing this work over you may want to propose that you apply a stain that is cut back from full strength. That way you could do a coat of stain @ 20%. Coat of laquer or other polyurethane, then due another stain coat or glaze coat etc etc until they say stop. Build up the layers of color slowly. Once you go black you can't go back; so they say.


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