# Need help with lacquer



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

I have a bathroom sink cabinet that needs fixed/repainted. The finish is chipping in some places. I contacted the cabinet maker and he said the finish is lacquer. It is a solid white with a gloss sheen. I should have a picture of it tomorrow.

Lacquer is one thing I have not sprayed before. So what am I in for here? Can lacquer be touched up or do I need to repaint the entire cabinet? What kind of prep and products are required? What is the best sprayer to use? HVLP? Pressure pot? 
This is one of my best customers and would really like to take care of this for her. I'll probably do it in December so I have plenty of time to practice. Thanks


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I think if the finish is chipping I would first make sure to sand it all down really well to remove any other compromised finish. Than redo the whole thing. That way it will match and not look Touched Up so to speak and hopefully you will remove any other finish that is not adhearing well.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

If the clear is chipping (white is intact) use deft brushable lacquer if its a big area. If its small, use some lacquer thinner or retarder and rewet area and melt it back again. 

Its hard to answer this question without seeing it though.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Lacquer is not film forming. It does not form successive layers. It chemically bonds to itself to form one layer. Thats why it can be re-wet. 

With that being said, touch ups in pigmented lacquer dont necessarily look correct so redoing the whole shebang may be the correct move. I would not sand it unless the wood was damaged. Id smooth it out with retarder and reshoot it. Nice thing about lacquer is you can clean any contamination off of it and shoot it again. 

Again, a picture would help give better advice.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

It is chipping enough to show bare wood. So is the white coat a lacquer also? Or a base coat? I have been trying to read up on the system but haven't found great information.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

In our area there is a guy who specializes in touching up cabinets for the GC's after they get dinged up during install and remodel. He is a master with airbrush and matching colors. You might want to inquire if such a person exists in your area. If you can refer the small job to him it may save you headache and make your client happy. Maybe happier than if you do it but not so good.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Damon T said:


> In our area there is a guy who specializes in touching up cabinets for the GC's after they get dinged up during install and remodel. He is a master with airbrush and matching colors. You might want to inquire if such a person exists in your area. If you can refer the small job to him it may save you headache and make your client happy. Maybe happier than if you do it but not so good.


 I am leaning in that direction. I'm sure there is a few people like that in my area.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

PRC said:


> I am leaning in that direction. I'm sure there is a few people like that in my area.


One place to start asking around is at big furniture stores and reputable moving companies. They often have OMSs that they call on to handle shipping/moving damage, etc.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

So I got a referral through a good contact for a refinisher but he has not returned my calls. Still searching. In the meantime here's the piece that needs it.

























What are your thoughts on the level of difficulty for the repair?


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

PRC!
1- If you are not familiar with lacquer use Lenmar Duralaq waterborne finishes, self sealing, ready to spray non yellowing, A Benjamin Moore product, you need HVLP easy to sand no need to thin just out of the can.
What i will do first is get some Kills spray let it dry then little sanding. 2 coats of finish should be fine it dry fast to recoat.
2- If it was my cabinets, I will refinish the hole cabinet with Advance satin, one coat primer 2 coats of spray finish.
Hope this help, Dan


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

I second using a paint 
Advance or I would maybe use satin impervo


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I'm only seeing repairs needed on a couple of areas that can be isolated from the rest of the vanity. I think this is worth trying to spray lacquer, provided you can get a good match. It may be worthwhile to maintain the original finish IMO.

Note: A gravity fed conventional is made for stuff like this, albeit I've never sprayed lacquer with mine.

Another Note: Don't be afraid to spray. Just keep the air as low as possible. I was taught to install what we call in the industrial trade, a "Cheater Valve". It's basically a small adjustable valve at the air supply inlet of the gun. I've noticed many newer guns are providing this already installed.

The valve allows you to really dial down your fan air to a manageable flow. I usually turn my fluid adjustment all the way open, and use experienced pressure application from my trigger finger to control the amount of material I want to apply.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

CApainter said:


> I'm only seeing repairs needed on a couple of areas that can be isolated from the rest of the vanity. I think this is worth trying to spray lacquer, provided you can get a good match. It may be worthwhile to maintain the original finish IMO.
> 
> Note: A gravity fed conventional is made for stuff like this, albeit I've never sprayed lacquer with mine.


I don't have gravity, I do have conventional pressure pot with fine nozzles.? Problem is I don't now my products. Is the white basecoat lacquer? Or something else? I am going to get a hold of the finisher/cabinet maker and see what he used.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

PRC said:


> I don't have gravity, I do have conventional pressure pot with fine nozzles.? Problem is I don't now my products. Is the white basecoat lacquer? Or something else? I am going to get a hold of the finisher/cabinet maker and see what he used.


Were you the one that posted the new two quart pressure pot?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

CApainter said:


> Were you the one that posted the new two quart pressure pot?


yes, think that will work? 

I'm really hoping I can just find a guy who can do it.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

PRC said:


> yes, think that will work?
> 
> I'm really hoping I can just find a guy who can do it.


Yes it will! No problem.

The first conventional gun I bought was a Binks 2000. Great gun!

Did your 2001 come with a cheater valve built in?

just saw tht it was a 2100 you bought, and the gun I actually bought was a 2001. so we're definitely on the same page!


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

PRC,

How experienced did you become with the Binks 2001?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

The 2001 is what I learned on too. The 2100 does have a cheater, I also got a inline air gauge that goes at the base of the gun.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

PRC said:


> The 2001 is what I learned on too. The 2100 does have a cheater, I also got a inline air gauge that goes at the base of the gun.


You shouldn't need much pot pressure (or fluid pressure) with the lacquer. I use the fluid arch method to determine just how much material I want pumped to the gun. For production and thicker materials, I can have up to a twenty four inch arch, down to a two inch arch for lower viscosity materials, and detail work. Of course, I'm making these adjustments with the fluid valve opened as far as I can, and the air valve on the gun completely closed.

Once I have my fluid dialed in, I start adjusting the air flow and fan. There is so much control on a conventional. But for ease of setting up and cleaning, I prefer the gravity fed. 

I have my 2001 Binks in storage with a cup on it that I will probably never use again.


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