# Painting metal siding- what to use



## hayman (Jun 16, 2011)

My father is asking me to paint his many buildings on his farm. I have good airless spray system that would do the job in no time. However we are getting mixed reviews on what product to use. I've talked to the manufacture of the siding and they used at the time he says just baked on enamal. He says any automotive style paint would work for sure if the surface is prepped accordingly but would be pricey. He also said the older it is probably the better it will stick and not flake. But he says I'm better off to talk to the paint manufactures to see what they recomend with the new acrylics out now a days.

This would require quite a lot of paint (lots of surface area) so we want to do it right the 1st time. Cloverdale Paint sold my father an acrylic latex paint saying it was the way to go I said hang on before we order it all in. As Benjanmin Moore suggested something like it an acrylic product or their Super Spec HP® Urethane Alkyd Gloss Enamel P22. Then another supplier I use wants to sell me Spectra's industrail enamel. 

Has anyone had experience in painting stuff like this? Years ago we painted one building with rollers and some "Barn Paint" of some sort from Benjamin Moore. It was very good paint and covered very well but its no longer available. It would have sprayed on better then using the rollers we did at the time. I have since bought some "barn paint" from my local farm store for another project a couple years ago but I was quite disapointed as it was not like that stuff from Benjamin Moore... it didn't cost as much either :blink: 

Thanks!


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## Precision-TBay (Jun 1, 2011)

I would give the metal good cleaning and prime it with an oil primer designed for metal. A 100% acrylic for the top coat (2)


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Go to the nearest BM or SW or other major paint supplier. Ask for a rep. Have him go meet you out there and look at it. Have him write you a suggested product. Tell him you are talking to other dealers in the area, so that you hopefully get a decent price. Make sure its under warranty so if it fails, at least you can get replacement product.


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## hayman (Jun 16, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> Go to the nearest BM or SW or other major paint supplier. Ask for a rep. Have him go meet you out there and look at it. Have him write you a suggested product. Tell him you are talking to other dealers in the area, so that you hopefully get a decent price. Make sure its under warranty so if it fails, at least you can get replacement product.


Yes I think that's the best route contacting some one at the paint company as I'm finding most retail outlets the employees just know about inteiror paint for houses!.


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## ImagelinePainting (Jun 18, 2010)

For that siding i would use the Speed Enamel or Marine Enamel from Cloverdale. I do use them for a years and never had problems with any of them... But still go talk to a rep from the paint stores in your area and see what they say.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i paint buildings like that on a regular basis, and i would only use a dtm acrylic on them. (no primer needed)


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I would give it a good cleaning and use a dtm.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

Clean the surface well, clean with tsp then powerwash, then I would use a good quality rust inhibitive metal primer (the acrylics nowadays are close to being as good as the oils, but if you can get oil based products in your area, great!) then use two coats of a good quality industrial finish (semi gloss or gloss) If you can find a Ben Moore store, Pratt & Lambert, PPG, Sherwin Williams, ect. Just remember for metal, the key is an industrial strength enamel for metal surfaces.


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

These days, I'm a fan of spraying latex whenever I can. A good pressure washing and maybe a mist coat coat of primer in the morning followed by a top coat of good flat exterior later on. I don't see why it has to be enamel. 
The siding looks in good condition except for those dark spotted areas. Maybe slap any latex over that area and see if any bleed thru occurs.

Changing over all previous oil film to latex should be on every painters mind.
Maybe it's that, or I just don't like spraying solvent based paints these days.


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## hayman (Jun 16, 2011)

Thanks for the info. 

After some investigating it seems DTM latex or industrail enamels are the two prefered methods that will do the trick.

Ben-moore got back to me and recomended this route.

I’ve shared your pictures with our technical support group and they suggested to proper clean and use an acrylic like KP29 semi-gloss DTM or any Exterior 100% acrylic (AURA, Regal Select or Collection).


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

high fibre said:


> i paint buildings like that on a regular basis, and i would only use a dtm acrylic on them. (no primer needed)


Ditto. DTM. Stick with Acrylic. Industrial Enamels and other oil based paints will oxidize and fade much quicker. Clean first. If your doing two coats, add some Flood Emulsa Bond in with the first coat (do not use on 2nd coat)


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