# HELP: Alligatoring from painting Flat over Satin



## schultzkatie (Mar 13, 2020)

Hello,

I am painting a nursery that was painted 3 years ago in a Satin finish (ACE Royal Brand). I am now repainting it with a flat. I noticed spider web looking cracks forming each day as it dried. It's on every wall but not covering the walls completely. I called ACE who didn't know much about it. I then called Sherwin-Williams and they recommended PrimeRX Peel Bonding Primer. I used that and then painted over and the cracks reappeared. The cracks are very visible however the paint is not peeling off at all. I can rub on it and pick at it with my nails and it doesn't come off.

I am now looking for a fix. The last thing I want to do is sand down these walls in a room with brand new carpet that will have a baby sleeping in it in 3 months.

I would also like to switch to satin paint at this point.

I did 2 tests on the walls currently. I tried to just paint satin finish over the flat. The cracks are way less noticeable but still there.

I also tried to paint the PrimeRX Bonding on in a spot and need to wait for it to dry before I try putting a satin over it.

Help? Advice?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Sounds like you should have called a pro painter instead of a diy project.


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## schultzkatie (Mar 13, 2020)

I would honestly appreciate some help on how to fix the issue instead of smart remark and telling me what I should have done. I am 7 months pregnant and just trying to get a room ready for my 2nd child and can't afford to hire someone. I have pained 2 full houses and sprayed a 50+ year old bedroom set that is absolutely beautiful. I have never ran into anything like this before.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Hi Katie, snark is just one of those things that happens on web forums. Don't take it personally. 



My guess is that you will be asked to go hit the associated DIY forums (I think they're here: https://www.diychatroom.com/f4/) as the painttalk site is for professional painters. (I'm not telling you that as I am not a site moderator. I just know that this is what happens).


My point is not that you aren't someone who can do things with professional quality, such as your bedroom set. Just that this site is for people who regularly paint as part or whole of making their living.


The DIY site has a couple of advantages. One is likely less snark. The other is that many of the knowledgeable full-time career painters here will help out there as well.


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## schultzkatie (Mar 13, 2020)

Joe, I understand this belongs under DIY but I was REALLY hoping a professional had it in their heart to help me out. I'm incredibly frustrated, spend over $200 in wasted product already and just want advice on what to do next because I am just lost at this point. I have called Ace, Ace corporate, valspar, Benj Moore, Sherwin williams and a local paint painting place and no one seems to know what caused this or how to fix it. At this point I am just a mom 7 months pregnant begging for someone to care just a little and help me out.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Did you ever clean these walls with an oil based cleaner and not clean them with something like TSP or Dirtech before painting?

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## schultzkatie (Mar 13, 2020)

Hi Pete, 

No I did not. I am not going to lie I am not a pro but have also never cleaned a wall before painting. (I guess I have been lucky because it was never an issue either)


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Easy answer is this. You probably used a cheap flat paint and did not sand the walls. As the cheap flat dries, like all coatings, it shrinks. It does not have enough elasticity to slide along the slicker satin finish.
So back to the primer, the one thing to know is that the SW Prime Rx dries to a cloudy clear, so you might see the cracks through it but if you put it on to the thickness it requires it will bridge those cracks.
At this point, I would purchase a nice paint, say Duration Home Satin from SW in your color of choice. Cut all the ceilings, corners, around the door and base trim, then roll on a nice coat of paint. If you are now changing the color from the flat, you may need to do some extra cuts where it was thin, or just do two and viola your done.
Sorry to hear this headache, but unfortunately painting is not easy and its never an exact science with differing surfaces, coatings to go over, etc.


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## schultzkatie (Mar 13, 2020)

Hi Mike thanks so much for the reply. Are you saying to just go buy a quality paint such as the Duration Home Satin from SW but forget the primer? Or were you thinking I should put a thicker layer of the Prime RX on first?

Thank you!!


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

schultzkatie said:


> Hi Pete,
> 
> No I did not. I am not going to lie I am not a pro but have also never cleaned a wall before painting. (I guess I have been lucky because it was never an issue either)


I was thinking that adhesion might be the problem, was also thinking that if you did not sand the satin there might be adhesion issues, but it seems like @MikeCalifornia has it diagnosed for you.

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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I've had great results with PrimeRX on difficult surfaces, and what Mike brought up about its translucence is quite correct. So yes, if you've primed the whole room with the RX, then you are probably good to go. It has very good adhesion qualities and is so thick that it does fill in little things like your spider cracks. At this point, trying to go back to square one isn't an option, so I agree that you now coat with a quality paint. (But I'm a Benjamin Moore guy so I'd say Regal).


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

schultzkatie said:


> Hi Mike thanks so much for the reply. Are you saying to just go buy a quality paint such as the Duration Home Satin from SW but forget the primer? Or were you thinking I should put a thicker layer of the Prime RX on first?
> 
> Thank you!!



If you have already primed the walls with Prime RX you are good to go. If you have not primed, then honestly two good coats of satin will fill the little cracks and you are good to go as well. It doesn't sound like the original flat paint is coming off, so adhesion is good. Chalk it up to poor paint choice. I have three kids and eggshell/satin is always a great choice for kids rooms.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

schultzkatie said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am painting a nursery that was painted 3 years ago in a Satin finish (ACE Royal Brand). I am now repainting it with a flat. I noticed spider web looking cracks forming each day as it dried. It's on every wall but not covering the walls completely. I called ACE who didn't know much about it. I then called Sherwin-Williams and they recommended PrimeRX Peel Bonding Primer. I used that and then painted over and the cracks reappeared. The cracks are very visible however the paint is not peeling off at all. I can rub on it and pick at it with my nails and it doesn't come off.
> 
> ...


It's probably just a slight adhesion issue. I would try painting another coat and see if it goes away. Otherwise roll a coat go Gardz (it is clear- like a watered-down glue) over the top and re-paint. No worries.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*More ovaltine please!*



schultzkatie said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am painting a nursery that was painted 3 years ago in a Satin finish (ACE Royal Brand). I am now repainting it with a flat. I noticed spider web looking cracks forming each day as it dried. It's on every wall but not covering the walls completely. I called ACE who didn't know much about it. I then called Sherwin-Williams and they recommended PrimeRX Peel Bonding Primer. I used that and then painted over and the cracks reappeared. The cracks are very visible however the paint is not peeling off at all. I can rub on it and pick at it with my nails and it doesn't come off.
> 
> ...


sk, from what you posted, I would just be WAGing (Wild Ass Guess-ing) as to what your problem is. You did not describe any prep work you did (washing - with what product? sanding - any glossy paint should be scuf-sanded before applying anything on top except a primer designed to bond to glossy surfaces) before you started rolling an un-named brand of flat paint over the Ace satin paint.

Your saying "The last thing I want to do is sand down these walls in a room with brand new carpet that will have a baby sleeping in it in 3 months" tells me that you might not have scuf sanded the satin finish paint on the walls before rolling on flat, but I would just be guessing if I thought that ( but it is my best guess, nonetheless)

My advice to you, whether you come here to a forum designed for professional painters (as well as those in paint related fields) only, or if you go to the DIY forum (as Joe67 mentioned) to speak to the same painting professionals there as are in here, is to give as much detailed information about just what you did, up until you encountered your problem, so that no one has to either guess what you did or ask you for more information....such as:

Did you wash any walls?

Did you sand the walls?

What brand and level of flat paint did you use?

My guess is that a moderator is going to read your post and recommend that you go to the DIY Chatroom. If you had given more and better info here, the moderators might be more interested in letting you stay here and get help, but since I am not a moderator, I am just guessing about that.

I am not trying to be either smart or snarky in saying all of this. We have seen bunches of people like you come here asking for info without giving pertinent info and making us guess and ask all kinds of questions, and frankly, I find it frustrating. Kind of like a wild goose chase.

futtyos


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Katie-
1. Please wear a mask
2. Be careful on that ladder
3. Better yet, rope a friend into helping you

Good luck and congratulations


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Not a good idea to use flat in a kids room anyway.... Duration is a nice thick paint. Use a 1/2" roller, if you arent already.


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## ProjectPaint (Mar 3, 2020)

No wonder painting information is hard to come by as a non-pro, 10 people with different approaches..go katie!! lol


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Joe67 said:


> Hi Katie, snark is just one of those things that happens on web forums. Don't take it personally.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Snark? Anyone else this thread would’ve been shut down already. Don’t forget to park in expectant mother parking! 


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Gosh, it could be a number of things. surface tension, contamination, etc. 

If the color and sheen pleases you, and it's not falling off in sheets, I would focus on the baby, decorate the room, and wait until you have some breathing room to call a painter for either consultation, remediation, or both.

Good luck mom!


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Snark? Anyone else this thread would’ve been shut down already.



I am well aware. I didn't bring up snark. She did.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Info hard to come by?*



ProjectPaint said:


> No wonder painting information is hard to come by as a non-pro, 10 people with different approaches..go katie!! lol


PP, what paint-related trade are you involved in such that you have gained legitimate membership in this forum? Did you read my post regarding how little info the OP gave about her painting project and how difficult it is to give advice without such info? You sound like you are a DIY yourself, at least to me. If I am wrong, please correct me.

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Why did you come here?*



schultzkatie said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am painting a nursery that was painted 3 years ago in a Satin finish (ACE Royal Brand). I am now repainting it with a flat. I noticed spider web looking cracks forming each day as it dried. It's on every wall but not covering the walls completely. I called ACE who didn't know much about it. I then called Sherwin-Williams and they recommended PrimeRX Peel Bonding Primer. I used that and then painted over and the cracks reappeared. The cracks are very visible however the paint is not peeling off at all. I can rub on it and pick at it with my nails and it doesn't come off.
> 
> ...


schultzkatie, after reading all the posts up until this point, and having read your tacit admission that you are not involved in any paint related trade - as required for admission to this forum - may I ask how you gained entrance to Paint Talk without being involved in any paint related trade as required for this forum? What did you post as to your qualifications to gain membership to this forum that was not true? Maybe this is not a big deal to you, but it might speak as to your truthfullness that would lead those of us here to wonder about taking time to help you.

Mind you, I am not trying to pick on you individually. Since I joined Paint Talk as a painter who makes his living by painting, I have seen a bunch of people who have come here trying to ask for advice here by gaining access by asking for admission when, in fact, they are not involved in any paint-related trade or occupation. Now you may be a better painter than anyone here, but if you do not qualify for membership in this forum, why did you try to gain access to this forum in a manner that was not really honest? My questions to you are not just aimed at you, but also all the others that have come here under pretenses that may be similar to yours.

I guess I am just expecting people to be honest. Maybe that is asking too much in this day and age.

My best wishes for you and your project.

futtyos!


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## aed390 (Jul 24, 2011)

Alligatoring can be caused by an oil on the wall. As it has happened on every wall I would imagine there is something that was on your wall that is causing your issue.

I am glad that you have had luck in the past not washing walls before you paint. However, it is proper painting practice to do so. But now here you are. How do you proceed?

The PrimeRx is the correct product to use if you have alligatoring. However, your problem is the oil(or contaminate of some kind) on the wall that is causing your coating(s) to separate. So you can try a couple things. 

1)I highly recommend calling a professional. 

2)if that is not in the cards. Proceed to #3

3)sand your walls down to the original coating.

4)wash your walls with simple green and then water rinse and let dry

5)prime coat with Sherwin-Williams ProBlock Alkyd Primer

6)apply (2) coats of Duration Home Matte

Best of luck to you and your new baby. As opposed to an old baby.


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## Nsomepaint (Sep 16, 2017)

aed390 said:


> Alligatoring can be caused by an oil on the wall. As it has happened on every wall I would imagine there is something that was on your wall that is causing your issue.
> 
> I am glad that you have had luck in the past not washing walls before you paint. However, it is proper painting practice to do so. But now here you are. How do you proceed?
> 
> ...




I completely disagree. If the paint is bonded to the wall, even with aligatoring then why would you sand off, clean and repaint?


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## paint life (Oct 6, 2010)

Very likely that the expansion and contraction of the original paint is much more then the ability for the flat to expand and contract therefore breaking it apart.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*I am nonplused!*

Schultzkatie, it appears that the moderators have not yet bustled you off to the sister group of Paint Talk, DIY chatroom. 

It also appears that you have yet to properly describe exactly what you did that led up to the alligatoring on the bedroom walls.

It also appears that some here at Paint Talk are like a doctor who asks the patient what is wrong, the patient says "I don't feel good," then the doctor, without trying any further to pinpoint what is ailing the patient to get an idea of what actually the patient is suffering from, prescribes some medicine....which may or may not help the patient with her problem. Not exactly the best way to diagnose an illness I would think.

You are about to embark on a job that is far, far more difficult than any of us here at Paint Talk are involved in (excepting those of us here who are also mothers in addition to being professional painters!) and so far have run the gauntlet of any of the administrators.

You do have an interesting problem that I am sure a good number of us here (myself included) have an interest in, but you need to give as much info about it as you can so those of here can understand just what is going on.

In the past I have seen diy-ers come here to ask for help with painting problems that I thought were very interesting only to see the administrators advise them to go to DIY Chatroom, but I keep quiet because it is not my place to make such decisions. I am just happy to be able to come here on numerous occasions to ask for advice from those who have lots more experience than I have.

Please come back and give us the whole pizza pie on what you have done so we can give you a good take on what to do to remedy your situation.

futtyos


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

futtyos, I doubt she's coming back. I'm she was fine with the early advice that the PrimerRX just needed a coat or two of decent paint, and I'd imagine that she did it and its fine and she doesn't need to continue the discussion.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

aed390 said:


> Alligatoring can be caused by an oil on the wall. As it has happened on every wall I would imagine there is something that was on your wall that is causing your issue.
> 
> I am glad that you have had luck in the past not washing walls before you paint. However, it is proper painting practice to do so. But now here you are. How do you proceed?
> 
> ...


Nobody washes walls anymore...


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Scientific method*



Woodco said:


> Nobody washes walls anymore...


I guess I am nobody. I just washed an unprimed ceiling and 2 walls to get rid of bug sopts/residue that the owner had primed over everywhere else with Kilz 2. The bug reside bled through the Kilz 2, but since it was primed over it could not be washed off. We spot painted the ceilings with PPG ceiling paint and they bled through, so we primed all the previously Kilz 2'd ceilings with Cover Stain and had to promptly leave for the day as we were not able to find any carbon filter masks due to current goings on. No bug residue bled through the areas I washed because the bug residue was now gone!

As to Joe 67 saying "futtyos, I doubt she's coming back. I'm she was fine with the early advice that the PrimerRX just needed a coat or two of decent paint, and I'd imagine that she did it and its fine and she doesn't need to continue the discussion," I also doubt that she will come back, but since I do not have the ability to do far remote viewing (or anything similar) I can honestly say that I don't know what schultzkatie ended up doing or how it turned out. I wonder if she, unlike so many who come to DIY Chatroom, will have the courtesy to come back and let us know what she ended up doing or whether or not it worked.

How can anyone here actually know what the OPs problem was caused by without asking for more information? Isn't that a bit like a doctor giving a prescription to a patient who tells the doctor only that "I don't feel good?" With that sparse amount of info, how would the doctor be able to make a diagnosis - unless she had more information? True, the OP sent a photo, but is there only one cause of alligatoring? I could imagine 2 identical symptoms being the cause of 2 different ailments and the prescription to heal one ailment will kill the patient who has the other ailment. Gosh, would that be malpractice?

I guess that some here don't care whether a newbie is or is not involved in a paint related field or trade, something that is required for admission into Paint Talk. 

Unless Katie comes back to give a report, I guess that ProjectPaint, in his #17 comment, may be correct ehen he said: "No wonder painting information is hard to come by as a non-pro, 10 people with different approaches..go katie!! lol"

I have not had my 2nd cup of joe yet, so anything I have commented on above may reflect low blood sugar of some other minor ailment that a 2nd cup will take care of.

futtyos


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Primer makes everything better!


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Primer!*



jennifertemple said:


> Primer makes everything better!


BIN primer sure saved my butt today!

futtyos


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

futtyos said:


> BIN primer sure saved my butt today!
> 
> futtyos


Saw a paint failure that turned out to be the fault of BIN recently.


High moisture area, BIN primer on drywall and ben semigloss topcoat. the ben semi was alligatoring and coming off in sheets down to the primer. Rustoleum admit fault and basically said BIN is not recommended at all in high moisture areas under latex.


BIN is a great primer but its not for everything.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*BIN application*



cocomonkeynuts said:


> Saw a paint failure that turned out to be the fault of BIN recently.
> 
> 
> High moisture area, BIN primer on drywall and ben semigloss topcoat. the ben semi was alligatoring and coming off in sheets down to the primer. Rustoleum admit fault and basically said BIN is not recommended at all in high moisture areas under latex.
> ...


3 years ago I refurbished a 5' x 5' medicine cabinet at Marina Towers in Chicago. I believe that most of the 800 or so units had these installed back in 1963 when the Towers were built. The cabinet consists of a frame attached to the bathroom wall. Shelves are removable and the back of the cabinet is literally the bathroom wall. The paint was peeling, so I scraped and sanded about 80% of it off down to the plaster. The plaster seemed chalky, so I applied a coat of Gardz, let dry, then skim coated with Durabond. The Gardz under the Durabond started peeling off, so I scraped off as much as I could, then used BIN to prime and Advance to paint. All went well.

Yesterday I did another cabinet. Scraped and random orbital sanded about 70% of the paint off the wall, then primed wall, frame and shelves with BIN. I was going to paint the frame and shelves with Rustoleum High Gloss white and the back wall of the cabinet 2 coats latex semi-gloss tinted to SW Repose Gray, but as I was rolling on the Rustoleum I realized that things would go a lot faster painting the back with the Rustoleum white instead of the gray semi-gloss. After reading your post, I hope I got lucky doing what I did!

futtyos


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

I doubt you're coming back and/or the thread will be closed. That said, your issue is probably from not washing down the walls and some sort of hand oils/dirt/etc being on top of the layer of paint. You need to wash the walls and make sure the soap/etc you used is off. Use something like Simple Green. You can't paint over garbage, so to speak. It's also good practice on most walls where it's a somewhat questionable layer of paint to do at least a quick scuff sand to knock down a little texture, get rid of the prior guy's runs, and give some more bite. It could just be an incompatibility too with paint brands, which unfortunately sometimes does happen inexplicably, maybe due to PH. One other thing that happens often too is especially dark colors have more tint in them, and most paints until recently while being latex were tinted with oil based tint, so a dark color with more tint has more oil based basically paint in it, so it's more slick and latex paint applied on top is less likely to bond. I had an issue with this as a pro with trim painted a very dark blue semi-gloss, going over with white. 

For what to do now, since you used PrimeRX, it's thick enough to cover over the surface and provide a bond and sort of resurface it. But in some situations cracks will show through with it. It's still just paint. If you want a perfect wall, that will take some sanding and a skim coat. 



 You'd need to do something like that. That would be the easiest method for a DIY. You'd want to skim coat it, not try to sand down a zillion layers of paint and that almost impossible to sand PrimeRX which is sort of liquid rubber-esque. 

And yeah, I would agree as a DIY finding real paint information is pretty hard due to the unregulated and sort of unstandardized trade painting is. I think there could be a good market for DIY painting classes. Another problem too in the trade is different paints and formulas exist and methods can change drastically (for example, most paints get better results rolling into wet cuts, but Benjamin Moore Aura and Regal do not like that due to a different formulation and fast dry times.)


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Moderators seem to have missed this thread.


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

futtyos said:


> 3 years ago I refurbished a 5' x 5' medicine cabinet at Marina Towers in Chicago. I believe that most of the 800 or so units had these installed back in 1963 when the Towers were built. The cabinet consists of a frame attached to the bathroom wall. Shelves are removable and the back of the cabinet is literally the bathroom wall. The paint was peeling, so I scraped and sanded about 80% of it off down to the plaster. The plaster seemed chalky, so I applied a coat of Gardz, let dry, then skim coated with Durabond. The Gardz under the Durabond started peeling off, so I scraped off as much as I could, then used BIN to prime and Advance to paint. All went well.
> 
> Yesterday I did another cabinet. Scraped and random orbital sanded about 70% of the paint off the wall, then primed wall, frame and shelves with BIN. I was going to paint the frame and shelves with Rustoleum High Gloss white and the back wall of the cabinet 2 coats latex semi-gloss tinted to SW Repose Gray, but as I was rolling on the Rustoleum I realized that things would go a lot faster painting the back with the Rustoleum white instead of the gray semi-gloss. After reading your post, I hope I got lucky doing what I did!
> 
> futtyos


Durabond is essentially plaster, though. Durabond does all kinds of wonky stuff with paint due to the PH, I think. 

How is using Rustoleum as an oil trim paint going for you? I've thought about this, but it does reek. I still tend to use it for customers who have rusty baseboard heaters, if they're OK with the smell.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Durabnd and Rustoleum*



celicaxx said:


> Durabond is essentially plaster, though. Durabond does all kinds of wonky stuff with paint due to the PH, I think.
> 
> How is using Rustoleum as an oil trim paint going for you? I've thought about this, but it does reek. I still tend to use it for customers who have rusty baseboard heaters, if they're OK with the smell.


Both Durabond and Easy Sand say that they are about 2/3 plaster. Durabond has more glue so it bonds better, hence the name.

Directions for both Durabond and Easy Sand say not to use either as a final skim coat. I have primed skim coats of both with 123 and found that the 123 started to melt the skim coat of both. Gardz seems to soak through without melting either. 

On the medicine cabinet I refurbished in 2017 the Gardz did not work so well, so I switched to BIN and coated with Advance and that worked.

On the medicine cabinet I just did I decided to play it safe and use BIN rather than risk using 123. We primed everything with BIN, then top coated with High Gloss white Rustoleum, then left for the day. We took today off, so I will see how the paint dried when I get there tomorrow.

As for rusty baseboard heaters, the GC I work for sands them down really well, then sprays Hi Gloss white Rustoleum and they look great.

futtyos


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

futtyos said:


> Both Durabond and Easy Sand say that they are about 2/3 plaster. Durabond has more glue so it bonds better, hence the name.
> 
> Directions for both Durabond and Easy Sand say not to use either as a final skim coat. I have primed skim coats of both with 123 and found that the 123 started to melt the skim coat of both. Gardz seems to soak through without melting either.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if I actually believe it, though. Easy Sand I think has less plaster in it, thus why it's relatively easy to sand, though not perfect. Durabond sands a lot worse but is less affected by water. It's my understanding Durabond was for the first pass in taping, when the boards are joined together to make cracks and seams less likely (which nobody does, they do it all with all purpose...) I think interestingly even with veneer plaster it's actually recommended to use Durabond over using Diamond Veneer on a one coat veneer to prefill and tape the joints before the finish coat of plaster.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Nsomepaint said:


> I completely disagree. If the paint is bonded to the wall, even with aligatoring then why would you sand off, clean and repaint?


Absolutely, sanding would improve the finish! If she just gives a couple of top coats it will hardly be a fine finish. I agree, simple green is not required but cleaning off the dust would be a must.


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## slapiton (Jul 28, 2007)

There is no easy fix because paint itself will not fill those cracks. If it was in my house and I was 7 months pregnant, I would use a 3/4 nap roller, good quality paint and call it good.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Every now and again a thread might slip by. That being said....


Thanks for posting on _PaintTalk.com._ The Moderators of this forum would prefer that you post Do It Yourself related topics on our sister site.www.DIYChatroom.com 

_PaintTalk.com_ is designed for professional painting contractors and the related fields to discuss issues and topics pertaining to the painting industries. Many of our professional contractors are also members at _DIYChatroom.com_ and are looking forward to assisting you with your needs.

Please take a moment to post your question at www.DIYChatroom.com If you're not already a member of _DIYChatroom.com_ you can sign up for a free account by going to http://www.diychatroom.com/register.php .

This thread is now closed.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I will add that we do have the report a post function that any of you can access to let us know if something has slipped by us. We are 99.99999% perfect as a mod and admin team - but that .00001% can occasionally spoil our record. Did I also mention we are incredibly modest?


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