# Spraying and Backrolling



## Bullyblues (Oct 25, 2017)

What is the proper way to backroll a spray job? What nap do you use? Do you load the roller or use it dry?


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## Bullyblues (Oct 25, 2017)

Do you spray heavily or just normal, even coverage?


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I spray a fairly normal amount for me but that is not normal for somebody else.I like to spray enough so the backroller doesn't have a dry roller and need to have more paint.Skin size depends on the type of texture on the wall, more texture bigger skin. I start with some paint on the roller but it is going to get loaded pretty soon anyway so you will have to find a spot to roll off some of the excess.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Bullyblues said:


> What is the proper way to backroll a spray job? What nap do you use? Do you load the roller or use it dry?


The nap should be surface appropriate. The rolling technique should follow general rules of over lap and tapering. And the material should be applied onto the surface in an amount that supports the proper film thickness after back rolling, but not to exceed an area that can be laid off before setting up.


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## Bullyblues (Oct 25, 2017)

What about loading the roller?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Bullyblues said:


> What about loading the roller?


There are two means to "loading" a roller with paint in the right proportions to cover a targeted surface area at the recommended WFT.

1. Non Spray- Roll sleeve into paint off of a grid or pan to a point where the sleeve is covered completely. Estimate the area of wall that can be covered at the proper WFT before repeating "loading"

2. Spray the surface area to be rolled at a thick enough WFT to spread with a roller, until an even and recommended WFT is established. Exceeding the targeted area will result in less than recommended WFT, and ultimately, an inadequate DFT.


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## Eagle Cap Painter (Nov 14, 2016)

Spraying and backrolling is exactly the same as rolling out of a tub. You're just trading the tub for a sprayer to speed up production.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

If Im using a 9", I will dip the roller in the paint before starting, if Im using an 18", I put the roller on the surface, and spray the nap while rolling a little, until semi-saturated.

WHATEVER YOU DO: Do not roll off excess paint onto other surfaces! ESPECIALLY textured surfaces!


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## goga (Aug 6, 2015)

Backrolling with 9"?) 

Anyways, to the OP, I'm backrolling only primer over raw wall if there is really bad drywall job, sanded over the paper, etc. It does not matter how you "load" a roller to start with, it will get worked out in the process. Spray just as you would without backroll, nice, clean no lines and misses and roll behind, you'll never have "access" paint on the roller, especially as so much, that you "have" to get "access" off of it), there is no such thing as access paint on the roller during spray and backroll, just spread it over the place. If you have "dry" roll, adjust spray, if you have "access" paint on the roller and it "slides", adjust spray, as simple as that)


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

goga said:


> Backrolling with 9"?)
> 
> Anyways, to the OP, I'm backrolling only primer over raw wall if there is really bad drywall job, sanded over the paper, etc. It does not matter how you "load" a roller to start with, it will get worked out in the process. Spray just as you would without backroll, nice, clean no lines and misses and roll behind, you'll never have "access" paint on the roller, especially as so much, that you "have" to get "access" off of it), there is no such thing as access paint on the roller during spray and backroll, just spread it over the place. If you have "dry" roll, adjust spray, if you have "access" paint on the roller and it "slides", adjust spray, as simple as that)


What about "Accessible Beige" paint on roller? Just kidding, I understand what you meant and you are correct.

So, you should pre-load the roller in an 18" bucket or tray and work it in evenly.
I used to pre wet it on the wall by spraying it as I roll slowly. But that does not put paint evenly into it, and would take a while to correct.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

goga said:


> Backrolling with 9"?)
> 
> Anyways, to the OP, I'm backrolling only primer over raw wall if there is really bad drywall job, sanded over the paper, etc. It does not matter how you "load" a roller to start with, it will get worked out in the process. Spray just as you would without backroll, nice, clean no lines and misses and roll behind, you'll never have "access" paint on the roller, especially as so much, that you "have" to get "access" off of it), there is no such thing as access paint on the roller during spray and backroll, just spread it over the place. If you have "dry" roll, adjust spray, if you have "access" paint on the roller and it "slides", adjust spray, as simple as that)


Sorry, I can't help it.
Access= a means of getting onto something.
"We need access to the keys so we can get the job done."
Excess= too much of something.
"The excess paint goes in the garage"
Just tryin to be helpful, it can be confusing. 
Ps. I backfill closets, bathrooms and tight spaces with a 9 all the time. I usually have a 9 and an 18 set up.
And I blow a couple huge wads on the wall near a corner to get my sleeve (s) worked out first. It only takes a couple times to get em saturated enough to lay out nice. I don't mean dripping wet, just not bone dry. Now that I'm thinking about it, I guess I only do that with primer over new mud. On a color coat or repaint maybe not so much as I've got more open time. I'll still get it wet (just hose the sleeve and roll it out) but usually if the waters not being sucked out it'll load up nice by the end of the first wall. And like goga said there shouldn't be much excess unless the spray is too heavy. If that's the case then move faster, adjust your technique or get a smaller tip.
Roll on brothas!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Im trying giving a word of warning to people... Dont tell me you cant put too much paint on, cuz you can. All Im saying is if you by chance spray your ceiling too heavy, (and it happens, sometimes when your backroller isnt communicating) dont roll the paint off your roller in the middle of a raw textured wall, or it could leave that area there forever. 

This goes with exteriors too. I learned a painful lesson a long time ago. I was backrolling a large smoothish stucco wall. One area was sprayed too heavy, so I rolled off the excess a little further down the wall. Well, that area died really quick, and showed through the topcoat. We redid the wall two more times, and it didnt go away. I think I had to take a brush, find the edges of the spot, and feather it out. We had a ceiling ruined by some hack not rolling from one end to another, and it left permanent lap marks down the middle of a huge living room. 

Point is, you can really mess up a wall by doing stupid stuff, so Im passing on the knowledge to people who dont know, or havent experienced it yet. Dont act like I dont know what Im talking about, cuz I've been there.


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## goga (Aug 6, 2015)

lilpaintchic said:


> Sorry, I can't help it.
> Access= a means of getting onto something.
> "We need access to the keys so we can get the job done."
> Excess= too much of something.
> ...


:vs_cool:
It's a good thing to have someone brave enough to correct a fellow co-forumer). Really appreciate it, now I got it strong, excessively strong in my head.. just got to memorize it begins from an e and not an a, maybe associate it with Excel(ss) :biggrin:


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## goga (Aug 6, 2015)

lilpaintchic said:


> Ps. I backfill closets, bathrooms and tight spaces with a 9 all the time. I usually have a 9 and an 18 set up.


What about the corners? We've tried to save time priming on few occasions and did not backroll them, left close lines from 18 and then found out there are accent colors on most))

Had hard time taping those corners off to get clean line and then taking the tape off with the ripped paint, cuz the paint was just sitting on the dusty mud after sanding. Gotta get those corners now, just using a regular 4". But that's so rare, couple time a year on NC.



> And I blow a couple huge wads on the wall near a corner to get my sleeve (s) worked out first.


I'd guess being lazy sometimes is a time saver.. go get the bucket, , poor the paint in, dip, set a side, wash after.. :vs_shocked:, just blow it on the wall and there is a lot of wetness to dip into)


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## Jerr (Feb 15, 2017)

Dryroll it


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