# Stainable Wood Fillers



## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I've got a project coming up where I'll be staining some Beech window sills to match the cabinet doors. 

What type of filler would you guys recommend for the nails holes.

Also, where in the process of staining and clear coating (SW High Build Lacquer) would you apply the filler?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PNW Painter said:


> I've got a project coming up where I'll be staining some Beech window sills to match the cabinet doors.
> 
> What type of filler would you guys recommend for the nails holes.
> 
> ...


I used to use the Stix brand colored fillers. Looked like crayons, were easy to apply, and with a quick wipe and buff they matched sheen wise as well. Since those are pretty much unavailable now, I switched to the Color Putty brand which comes in little jars. Messier to apply (I wear nitrile gloves) but has the advantage of being mixable if you really feel you have to do so (but they have a pretty decent selection of stock colors).

I always apply the putty at the very last since it is designed to remain soft and really doesn’t accept the clear coats IMO.

I have yet to find a “stainable” filler that does a good job of accepting the stain the same way the wood does. If someone else has, I’d like to hear about it.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

RH said:


> I used to use the Stix brand colored fillers. Looked like crayons, were easy to apply, and with a quick wipe and buff they matched sheen wise as well. Since those are pretty much unavailable now, I switched to the Color Putty brand which comes in little jars. Messier to apply (I wear nitrile gloves) but has the advantage of being mixable if you really feel you have to do so (but they have a pretty decent selection of stock colors).
> 
> I always apply the putty at the very last since it is designed to remain soft and really doesn’t accept the clear coats IMO.
> 
> I have yet to find a “stainable” filler that does a good job of accepting the stain the same way the wood does. If someone else has, I’d like to hear about it.


I am looking to update my wood filler / color putty selection at my store.

Do people generally prefer water based stuff or solvent based? I picked up a case of water based Famowood. And I also noticed colorputty has water based and solvent based products.
https://www.amazon.com/FamoWood-40022126-Latex-Wood-Filler/dp/B001733MIG/

The amazon reviews are basically worthless but I am interested to get some feedback on these.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I would like to be able to buy water based color putty at any local retail outlet. They all have oil putty like RH is talking about, which is fine if your using solvent based clear coats. I also putty holes as a last, or second to last step. Sometimes I'll do it right before the final coat. 

It's risky to use the oil putties with WB top coats however. It would be nice if they were more easily available. 


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Just stopped by Rockler and all they had was Famowood, but only in the solvent base and very limited color selection. 

Several stores carry the oil based color putty, so I think I'll probably end up using that. 

I've also heard of people using Mohawk products, but I'm not familiar with their products.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I do a fair amount of clear coating with a waterborne product (Emtech 8000) and so far haven't had any issues with it reacting adversely with a solvent based wood putty. But, perhaps that's because I putty at the very last rather than clearcoat over it.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

RH said:


> I do a fair amount of clear coating with a waterborne product (Emtech 8000) and so far haven't had any issues with it reacting adversely with a solvent based wood putty. But, perhaps that's because I putty at the very last rather than clearcoat over it.




I've used the oil putties successfully with WB clears too, but problems can happen. I don't think it so much has to do with adverse reactions with the coatings themselves, but rather how the oil in the putty can affect the wood itself. 

What I've seen happen is over time as the putty dries out (it does stay soft, but not forever) the wood around the putty can absorb some of the oil and make a greasy/discolored spot around the hole. I've seen these appear on wood work that was finished years before. 

A couple weeks ago I was finishing a walnut ceiling where the carpenters had used oil putty on the raw wood during construction to hide some boo boos. The oil from the putty had soaked way into the wood. 










At first, I thought it might be a problem. But I was using oil varnish and that darkened the wood enough that the spots weren't visible. Had I been using a WB clear, it would have been a real problem. 


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## Lazerlnes (Sep 9, 2017)

I have yet to find one that that absorbs stain ideally, but Elmer's wood filler with wood fibers does seems to do better than some for me. I have often used colored pencils to blend it little nail head fills.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I ended up picking up some Timbermate and Famowood Waterbased at Woodcraft. Between these two products I hope I can come up with something that works. 

Luckily, I've got about two days to figure it out on some extra sample pieces the GC gave me.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

PNW Painter said:


> I ended up picking up some Timbermate and Famowood Waterbased at Woodcraft. Between these two products I hope I can come up with something that works.
> 
> Luckily, I've got about two days to figure it out on some extra sample pieces the GC gave me.
> 
> ...


My supplier does not carry timbermate but let me know how the famowood works out. What are you using for stain?


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Not a fan of the solvent stuff. Waterbase all the way.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

getrex said:


> Not a fan of the solvent stuff.


Pretend I don't know anything about wood filler. Could you elaborate?


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

I am pretty sure we are talking about very different products. We don't often have use for soft-filling wood trim putty like these guys are talking about. We literally use wood filler to repair damaged exterior wood siding, soffits, etc. For larger applications the solvent based stuff is a little obnoxious. It doesn't putty out smoothly, takes forever to dry, and it doesn't store well once opened. At least this is my experience. The water based products seem to do better in almost every category except that I would say it doesn't get as hard. But, again, different product for a different application. I was more complaining, in general, about my dislike of anything solvent based. It hurts my brain pan. Sorry for the derail.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

RH said:


> I used to use the Stix brand colored fillers. Looked like crayons, were easy to apply, and with a quick wipe and buff they matched sheen wise as well. Since those are pretty much unavailable now, I switched to the Color Putty brand which comes in little jars. Messier to apply (I wear nitrile gloves) but has the advantage of being mixable if you really feel you have to do so (but they have a pretty decent selection of stock colors).
> 
> I always apply the putty at the very last since it is designed to remain soft and really doesn’t accept the clear coats IMO.
> 
> I have yet to find a “stainable” filler that does a good job of accepting the stain the same way the wood does. If someone else has, I’d like to hear about it.


I was just poking around the stains that I carry and Old Masters has putty sticks like you were describing
http://myoldmasters.com/product/putty-stick/


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

If I remember correctly, beechwood stains somewhat similar to pine. So, I'd do a quick sample of some pine based stainable filler and stain over it. My roomate swears on sanding whatever wood, then taking the sawdust, and mixing it with wood glue. He actually says he will put a dab of wood glue in the nail hole, then run an orbital right over the top of it while wet and the sawdust will fill it in and it blends perfectly, a then you stain over the top. If its only a nail head, and it isnt perfect, its not gonna be a huge deal. 

The other option is to use colored putty. You do that after your sand sealer coat, or first coat and has had a sand. Use whiting powder, or even white chalk or baby powder to make the putty less sticky. Fill the hole, and wipe it really good with a rag DAMPENED with mineral spirits. All colored putty I've ever used has been oil based, and its perfectly fine to use it under waterborne coatings. You just have to wipe it good enough to where it doesnt leave a colored smudge which will be trapped forever under your topcoats.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I use timbermate freqently. It takes stain well and comes in several colors. It is waterbased and you can thin it to troweling consistency to fill grain in oak flooring then stain. Doesn't shrink too much and if it dries out reconstitute with water and mix it till smooth again. Sands easily. Stinks bad like a bandaid. I think it has preservatives in it to avoid growth of microbes and fungus like drywall compound does. Have some over 5 yr old and all you have to do is add water and mix it. Dries good and hard will not crumble. Smell is the worst problem.


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