# How to properly prep oil trim for SW ProClassic Acrylic



## The Machine (May 16, 2013)

I've TSP'd all trim work, and sanded to de-gloss. My SW rep says that the PC should well as is. I'm thinking I should prime. What is the standard practice here?

Any suggestions on water-based primers? Preferably SW for convenience.


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## The Machine (May 16, 2013)

Would Solo be a better material for this application? I plan on spraying.


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## seomichael (Sep 23, 2013)

The Machine said:


> I've TSP'd all trim work, and sanded to de-gloss. My SW rep says that the PC should well as is. I'm thinking I should prime. What is the standard practice here?
> 
> Any suggestions on water-based primers? Preferably SW for convenience.


Clean, dry and dull is the key. If you sanded down to where there is no shine than you should be okay in terms of adhesion. Proclassic has great adhesion and self levels. Solo would work as well but I would consider it a down grade--although solo is a great product. 

If you are still not convinced do a test spot. Normal practice is to wait 7 days but generally you will be able to tell if it's going to stick within a couple of days. 

If you don't want (or don't have time) to do a test spot and want to prime anyway then use their Multi purpose Zero Voc Primer...which essentially took over their Adhesion Primer or Xim 400 primer which is also sold at SW. 

Just a word of advice--you better go ahead and post an introduction thread about yourself. We normally don't answer questions from people we don't know. Hope they forgive me for this.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I would skip the pro classic due to problem paint, admitted by SW's people. I just had bad results with it and other people have too. We covered our problem with Solo eggshell, it was pretty low lustre. If you want a nice shine go with solo semi gloss.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

PC is my go to trim and I also feel Solo would be a step down. The first couple times I used it I hated it. Talked to rep showed me what I was doing wrong, have used and really liked it every since. I brush it mainly, Advance for spraying.


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

When in doubt, prime. Get some Stix and prime your trim first and then top coat with Pro classic. Solo is a good product, but when I spray PC it comes out like glass and looks great.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

We have used it exclusively on trim for years.Absolutely no problems at all. I have it in my house. 2 coats over oil. Scuff sand,wipe down with denatured and go. You can't scratch it.
Looks and feels just like oil


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Yep. Prep as others have described and use PC - it's a good product. I do also add some XIM extender. Love that stuff.


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

While I don't think you can go wrong with the PC, I recently tried BM Advance on a cabinet job and was very impressed with the results. Seems to cure out much harder than PC. YMMV


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## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

ligboozer said:


> While I don't think you can go wrong with the PC, I recently tried BM Advance on a cabinet job and was very impressed with the results. Seems to cure out much harder than PC. YMMV


The Ben Moore guys have been trying to get me to use Advance for months now. Do you consider it easier to work than Regal Select?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

harmonicarocks said:


> The Ben Moore guys have been trying to get me to use Advance for months now. Do you consider it easier to work than Regal Select?


 no:no:


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

harmonicarocks said:


> The Ben Moore guys have been trying to get me to use Advance for months now. Do you consider it easier to work than Regal Select?


Don't know about easier. Different. Advance behaves like an alkyd, which has good and not so good characteristics. There are about one million threads on PT about Advance and it's qualities. I see it as an almost "special use" only paint, but it comes out looking great. 

I like Regal Select for walls. Not many wall paints make great (or even good) trim paints. RS is ok for trim, but at that price there are better choices.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

chrisn said:


> no:no:


So I guess you did not enjoy your cabinet brushing experience 

Advance is only easier to work with In one respect; it has a long open time. 
Or course, that long open time also makes it more likely to run.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

All above suggestions will def work. We always sand wipe clean and prime with cover stain anytime we go latex over an oil finish. We have done it for years and almost always get away with one topcoat. Pro classic over cover stain is the nicest brushed finish you can get IMO


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## ZKPainting (Oct 6, 2012)

I would stay away from the latex version of PC, especially if your going to spray it. I just finished spraying doors with it and had a number of issues with the way it layed out. SW did not say anything but that 1000psi and 30psi of air was too much and that the seeding/microbubbles would go away at 800 and 20. I had done everything to ensure a perfect finish but running the paint through the sprayer seemed to change the properties and the finished was far from expected. After spraying 10 gallons and never getting it quite right I switched to cashmere and would not use the latex version again. Just doesnt seem worth the hassle.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Use it every day.No problems.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I honestly don't believe there are no problems, there are always problems trying to spray this product across an entire house and get consistent results. 

Over a dozen other trim enamels that are easier to work with and get similar results with.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Well...you will always have some minor issues with any paint. An occasional run here and there,a rookie who can't spray it right,some fish eyes every now and then but I can honestly tell you we use it every day with no issues that would make me switch


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

It is interesting to see all the different feedback on a particular product. I haven't used it for quite a while, but I always had good luck shooting it with an airless and a 310 or 410 depending on trim or doors. I would usually just add a pinch of XIM extender to the mix, and shoot at a good atomizing pressure, not all the way up. 
Oftentimes one full coat over primed trim looked awesome. Careful not to go too heavy, but I would shoot my doors vertical and not get sags.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Is $42 gal a decent price for this?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I can never get a gd answer around here.


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

I dont know if it's a good price. I don't fux with SW other than loxon. Your price sounds retail.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

TJ Paint said:


> Is $42 gal a decent price for this?


Like any SW product the more you use it the cheaper it gets. :yes:

There's your answer now quit crying. :jester:


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> Is $42 gal a decent price for this?


Yes.


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

TJ Paint said:


> Is $42 gal a decent price for this?


Ayuh. That's fair.


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## palehorse222 (Oct 22, 2008)

harmonicarocks said:


> The Ben Moore guys have been trying to get me to use Advance for months now. Do you consider it easier to work than Regal Select?


I'm a die hard fan of Impervo, and I would never use it again...I use a lot of Regal select..great for walls...use advance where you need durability, something with a satin sheen or higher...I have some clients that are all high-gloss (i know), and since I've used the Advance high-gloss, they don't want any other HG..

about PC...the formula changed about 2 years ago..so the old PC -AMAZING!, the new stuff-not so much--needs lots of thinning in my opinion, and dries too fast for me


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Of course mentioning Impervo on a ProClassic thread is ok. Even encouraged


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Stix Primer. Enough said. Problem solver. That stuff sticks to anything! For top coat, not a fan of Advance. They're saying like 16hrs, between coats?? Nobody got time for that. Way too long of an open time...If your gonna go Regal, you may as well step up to the Aura. Bam! As good as it gets.. I just painted some kitchen cabinets over an old varnish with that combination and it is bullet proof.


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## lmvp17 (May 15, 2010)

Prime that oil!


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Asking for a standard practice would depend upon the painter you ask. Some say you could get away with just cleaning and sanding the sheen off, and maybe you could, but you'll have to ask yourself if it's really worth the risk of having it peel down the road. For what it's worth, I'd suggest using a bonding primer. Sherwin makes one called Anchor Bond, comes in Acrylic, and will take the guess-work out of results. Good luck.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

palehorse222 said:


> I'm a die hard fan of Impervo, and I would never use it again...I use a lot of Regal select..great for walls...use advance where you need durability, something with a satin sheen or higher...I have some clients that are all high-gloss (i know), and since I've used the Advance high-gloss, they don't want any other HG..
> 
> about PC...the formula changed about 2 years ago..so the old PC -AMAZING!, the new stuff-not so much--needs lots of thinning in my opinion, and dries too fast for me


When I tried spraying it in my cheap HVLP I had to thin it a lot and the final result was absolute crap. Rep told me thinning it to much screwed up the levelers already in the paint and the warm air from the HVLP was drying it too fast and making it look streaked. Started using airless and very little if any thinning and am very happy with it.


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## snacker6 (Oct 10, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> For what it's worth, I'd suggest using a bonding primer. Sherwin makes one called Anchor Bond, comes in Acrylic, and will take the guess-work out of results.


I wish that product were still available in our area. It had great adhesion over old oil base, and brushed out well. Down here they have folded several of the old _ProBlock_ dedicated primers into general purpose primers.

I don't miss _all_ of the older products, but I do miss some of them.


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## JasonF (May 26, 2010)

Love me some ProClassic! We use it on furniture, trim, & doors.

When in doubt, we sand and prime with XIM...hasn't failed us yet.


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## brushriteservices (8 mo ago)

ridesarize said:


> I would skip the pro classic due to problem paint, admitted by SW's people. I just had bad results with it and other people have too. We covered our problem with Solo eggshell, it was pretty low lustre. If you want a nice shine go with solo semi gloss.


I am having pro classic adhesion issues. I would like to know where you got the information as far as Sherwin Williams admitting to problems with Pro Classic. 
Thank You.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

brushriteservices said:


> I am having pro classic adhesion issues. I would like to know where you got the information as far as Sherwin Williams admitting to problems with Pro Classic.
> Thank You.


Just so you know, this thread is 8 years old so you _may_ not get a response.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

brushriteservices said:


> I am having pro classic adhesion issues. I would like to know where you got the information as far as Sherwin Williams admitting to problems with Pro Classic.
> Thank You.


What kind of issues. Paint is made in batches and some batches have issues. Have you taken bucket back to SW and let the rep there know? 

Per this thread, I'd always prime an oil. After I use a deglosser/ degreaser and scuff sanded. I haven't used TSP in 25 years.


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