# LP SmartSide



## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I looked at this job the other day. After seeing the gaps, I had to verify if the specifications called for this size gap.

It looks like it was installed to the correct specifications 3/16" gap. There are a few inconsistencies here and there. Many installers recommend a urethane (NP1, Loxon, Quad Max, etc.). I think this is going to be super ugly. The good news is, the trim and siding are all one color. So the large bead of caulk won't be so noticeable. 

Thoughts?


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Definitely calls for a better grade of caulk than the old run-of-the mill siliconized latex. And as you say, good thing it's gonna be all one color.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

It needs room to expand and contract. We just like to see things nice and tight. Too tight would likely cause pieces to crack and or buckle as it expands. I'd use quad. Quad max only comes in white but the turn around is faster than regular quad which has more colors to choose from. Great if the house is going to be fairly dark in color but ya gotta let it gas off for 10-14 days or whatever.
And I think it'd be fine even if it were going 2 tone as the sides go body anyway so it'd just be the faces going a different color. It seems like a pretty standard install from behind my phone here!

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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Does the LP have same recommendations as Hardi: don’t caulk where planks come together and leave a specified sized gap, but where they butt into corners you do caulk?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Have you considered Sika 1A polyurethane joint sealant? The thing with polyurethanes verses most TO2 acrylic/silicone caulking materials, is that the polyurethane is moisture cured and allows a full cure through a large bead of sealant. Where as, regular caulk has limitations on the gap it can fill.

In other words (per RH's suggestion) regular caulking will stay more softer and mushy rather than tight and stretchy if it is used on really wide cracks.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I'm with RH on this. If they are recommending to leave the gaps, are you sure your suppose to caulk them? That just looks weird..


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

The caulking should be done by the siding company. It's part of sealing the envelope. It not being done is like a carpenter putting studs in and expecting for the drywall guys to put the nails in for em....in a perfect world of course.



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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

lilpaintchic said:


> The caulking should be done by the siding company. It's part of sealing the envelope. It not being done is like a carpenter putting studs in and expecting for the drywall guys to put the nails in for em....in a perfect world of course.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Totally correct. But if they can land a siding job while skating on the caulking, they can save a crap load of time.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

RH said:


> Totally correct. But if they can land a siding job while skating on the caulking, they can save a crap load of time.


I just don't understand how a siding company can warranty something they haven't sealed.....guess that's the difference between a siding company and a reputable siding company maybe?

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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

But remember a carpenter with a caulk gun can lead to scary things.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

The LP Smart Siding Installation Instructions specifies a sealant that meets the ASTM C920 Standards. Quad MAX OSI meets this standard but Quad OSI doesn't according to a bulletin submitted by Nichiha Fiber Board Siding. 

It appears the sealants that meet the ASTM C920 standards can be single or two component, considered elastomeric, compatible with polyethylene(no transfer), and can be applied in cold, and I believe, to wet surfaces. As I understand it, this does not include silicone caulks.

Also, primers for LP SS should not contain vinyl, like PVA sealer, or transparent sta.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

kmp said:


> But remember a carpenter with a caulk gun can lead to scary things.


Giving a loaded caulking gun to a carpenter is like handing a loaded handgun to a six year old boy with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder - both are horrifying examples of irresponsibility.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Thanks to all who have replied.

The carpenter had never hung LP SmartSide. He started doing some of the caulking around windows and I suggested he stop. After speaking to the manufacturer, they said as long as it was caulked and painted within 180 days of install, they would warranty it. 

Where the siding butts together is supposed to receive an "H" molding. That was not done on this house. I'm trying to determine if an "H' molding can be retrofit. I don't think it can. If so, this will be the most aesthetic solution. Caulking those gaps is going to look horrible. Leaving them will also look horrible. This house has about 30 butt joints on the eastern side. I guess they were burning up shorter lengths of the siding. 

I haven't contracted with the owner yet. I have communicated that those are the biggest gaps I have ever seen. I didn't hide my thoughts at all. I have been very clear about how bad I think this is going to look.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Here is an image of the "H" molding/flashing.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

epretot said:


> Here is an image of the "H" molding/flashing.


Shoulda been done at installation then. I'd guess the bottoms are supposed to lock into the piece below the joint....dunno how that can happen at this point. 

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## Tiny Tim (May 26, 2017)

I know this is an old post but when I paint a FC or LP job I paint the side of the trim the same color as the siding and only the trim face gets the trim color. Looks beautiful.


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