# Caulk Exterior before or after pressure wash?



## SunHouseProperties (Feb 19, 2015)

Need some back up, .. New construction residential (hardy board and hemlock accent) , should I pressure wash Uncaulked (for time management) or caulk first (Ext.trim-caseing-facia) then pressure wash. I am concerned about the water going into joints and probably causing a mess, Wait, I think I got it , ,:vs_coffee:


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I would wash it and let it dry than prime and caulk but thats just me.


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

Agree with @jacob33. Fresh caulk getting wet and getting blasted with pressure is not a good combination, not to mention, you would be potentially caulking over top of dirt, mildew, etc. which could cause a major caulking failure.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

That's the siders job. And they should be using quad or something like it. Not painters caulk. If its NC, I'd do it first. Like I said....it should a been done before the painters showed up....
Also, if its nc, why are you pressurewashing it at all?

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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Caulking is not the weather barrier. The siding, trim, windows, etc are (or are supposed to be) flashed properly to prevent damage from water.

If you find yourself at any time using caulking to stop a leak, there is a larger underlying issue.


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## SunHouseProperties (Feb 19, 2015)

The client attimently requested pressure washing before painting because house has been in development for 1.5 years with a fair amount of dust on surface. Very good point of the painters caulk not being a weather barrier primary to the actual siding/flashing (very good point ," dammit Spok Im a painter! not a siding and flashing guy". And a great point that the siding guys may be responsable for closing those gaps with "quad ? ?. I will invest my time to inform client in a "client freindly way " of these fine points. ( some clients just want me to say " Yes , It will be done. !


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

“Attimently”? Well, if the client is attiment, then you have to do it. 
That’s the rool. 


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> “Attimently”? Well, if the client is attiment, then you have to do it.
> That’s the rool.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You're AWFUL. Go eat some peas n oatmeal.lol

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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

lilpaintchic said:


> You're AWFUL. Go eat some peas n oatmeal.lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




I used to be a pretty good guy till I started hanging around this place. 


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

lilpaintchic said:


> That's the siders job. And they should be using quad or something like it.




You keep saying this, but I have NEVER, in my life seen siders do their own caulking


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I agree that I have never seen a siding carpenter caulk their work. Remember the old adage about a carpenter and a caulk gun.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

lilpaintchic said:


> You're AWFUL. Go eat some peas n oatmeal.lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I had some today, maple and brown sugar with extra peas, mmm, mmm, delish!


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Woodco said:


> You keep saying this, but I have NEVER, in my life seen siders do their own caulking


Seriously???its part of the install!!

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

If the GC installed the siding than I wouldn’t expect it to be caulked. Plus, most GC’s don’t have a clue how to caulk properly anyways.

If a professional siding installer did the job than I’d expect it to be caulked since it’s an important part of vapor/weather barriers. 

If you’re caulking the job I’d highly recommend using Quad, SikaFlex or Trmco Dymonic. 


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Also, with Hardy board, I would be overly concerned it it has dried. Theres really nothing to rot, and the moisture will find its way down eventually. I sure as hell wouldnt caulk wet wood, but back in Reno, we would sometimes start caulking the driest side the day we powerwash. Its a little different in the desert of course, but all in all, Im more concerned about the moisture content of the wood itself, than if a little bit gets behind the siding or trim. And its not like you're painting over wet surface, you're just caulking joints. If you cant visibly see water in the joint to be caulked, I'd caulk it. Obviously, its preferable to let it dry though, but sometimes that would be a waste of a half day.


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## mdZX (Jul 7, 2018)

Have to ask... What is NC? 
I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know? 

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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

mdZX said:


> Have to ask... What is NC?
> I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk




NC is new construction.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

mdZX said:


> Have to ask... What is NC?
> I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk



You should go to the James Hardie website and there you will find what to caulk and what not to caulk based upon the type of siding with which you are dealing. Especially interesting is how to caulk above windows. Keep in mind that what not to caulk (butt joints, for example) is based upon the installation of flashing behind those joints. Also keep in mind that Hardie has changed their caulking requirements over the years, as they have tried to minimize maintenance issues regarding re-caulking.


https://www.jameshardie.com/


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Did you consider hand washing with scrub brushes and heavy duty sponges? Using krud kutter and clean hose rinsing. We wash many houses like this and yes it's more time consuming but I do think it gets betters results. Unless the dirt is completely caked on there


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Did you consider hand washing with scrub brushes and heavy duty sponges? Using krud kutter and clean hose rinsing. We wash many houses like this and yes it's more time consuming but I do think it gets betters results. Unless the dirt is completely caked on there
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Gong brushes they use to clean exteriors of boats. Depending on the surface you can use sanding sponges as well. They suck up a lot of bleachy water. Rinse well.


Just finished a big exterior I cleaned using both methods. Boards squeaked when you ran your fingers over them.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

A quick rinse never hurt anyone.


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