# Capspray 115 issue - leak & check valve



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I've been recently having a lot of issues with my capspray 115. I bought the whole shebang, minus the cart. So 2 quart remote pump (never used it), and I have basically all the needle sets. It's not even a year old yet and I've already had it serviced 3 times.

My problem is: The cup leaks and I have material coming up through the check valve. I've had to buy a brand new cup $25, so not a big deal, but I mean the gun gets used but not every single day of every single week. Maybe a week straight and then nothing for 2 weeks or so. I run mostly water based stain and some paint. To clean it I usually run water through it and sometimes alcohol/laq thinner to make sure its real clean in the up-take tube. 

I have 10 white gaskets for the cup as I seem to have to change them out every couple of weeks or less, depending on if the gun is leaking. Small bubbles coming from the rim when the unit runs, once in awhile, other times there is nothing. It's gotten to the point where I actually need to have double or triple of every replacement part because it takes a week or two for any part to come in and I just can't have down-time like that in the middle of a project. 

Recently it went into the shop again last week under warranty, thank God, because when I pull the trigger sometimes material comes out and sometimes it doesn't (GF wb stain). Dealing with this capspray issue long enough and frequently enough, I know that there is a leak somewhere because it always acts funny like this when it has a leak. Disconnecting the hose and opening up I don't get any pressure release from the cup so that's another tell-tale sign. 

It's just getting so annoying and I'm getting a bit aggravated because we do a lot of spray staining and shading and I just can't have this thing not shoot material when I or others pull the trigger. It feels like I'm working with a real ghetto system having to adjust for maybe the material coming out..maybe not coming out, and testing and re-calibrating the dumb material setup to get material to flow through etc. etc. etc. Plus it's not even a year old which is another thing starting to aggravate me even more, me or the guys shouldn't have to tweak the system to get it work if its new. 

Sorry for my 2 cent rant, but I'm curious to know if others are encountering this problem or not, specifically with this unit. 

P.S. I also have a Fuji Q4 gold that I need a cup for (side wings got bent), but never had as much issues with it as the Capspray. Small leak once in awhile do to worn gasket, but other than that performs flawlessly. I'm thinking about maybe trying to sell my capspray unit and go back to Fuji or just buy another unit from another manufacturer all together. Just hate to waste $2,500+...another thing that would tick me off.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Ur complaints are really with the gun it seems. No? Can't you just get another gun? I got a maxum 2 gun and it's good as wood. The check valve assembly is really the only part I've had to replace. Does that gun mate with ur machine I don't know but I'd think so.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

PPS system. Problem solved.


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

I have the capspray 115. Noticed the same issues when i first got it. Couple things i had to change that helped. The needle nut comes loose. If you have to spray sideways or slightly upside down briefly Tip the gun to the left. And not on the side with the check valve. If the spray seems a little intermittant. Its a blockage. A quick back flush with ur tshirt is a temp fix. If you use the filter inside the cup. Make sure its not dried at the bottom and pressed to close on the pipe. (Referring to the Elite Guns btw)

Had similar issues with my other turbines, but mostly after switching to WB, and not cleaning enough. I'll spray 3-4 days a week. Daily clean in a sink with dish soap. Every week or two. Thorough clean with alcohol.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Oden said:


> Ur complaints are really with the gun it seems. No? Can't you just get another gun? I got a maxum 2 gun and it's good as wood. The check valve assembly is really the only part I've had to replace. Does that gun mate with ur machine I don't know but I'd think so.


Yes, sorry in my rushed rant I forgot to say that it is the 'gun' part vs. the turbine unit that is the issue. I'm happy with the turbine, has a lot of power, a place to put the gun etc. etc. 

Titan was running (probably still is) a special where you get a gravity fed gun as a rebate. It is gravity gun so it operates differently, it has basically 2 check valves which is nice and seems to work better than the elite series gun. Which is what I have (elite series gun). I wonder if the gravity gun they sent is basically like your maxum. 

The elite gun comes with the capspray 115, higher-end unit supposedly with a higher end gun <shrugs>. 

I should ask the service repairman if he can just call the warranty for a new gun lol. I don't want to order one because it's $350, which I feel I don't need to spend since it's a brand new unit still under warranty. If it was an older unit or used or whatever, than that's the way the dice rolled. But it isn't. I"ll have to look into this as a possible solution.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

DeanV said:


> PPS system. Problem solved.


Can the PPS even be used with the elite gun? I guess now that I think about it, it probably could. But how exactly would that solve the leak/pressure issue (screw on versus the pressure wings setup) ??

I wonder how the accuspray systems hold up in comparison to the capspray/graco units. Just a curious thought.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Danahy said:


> I have the capspray 115. Noticed the same issues when i first got it. Couple things i had to change that helped. The needle nut comes loose. If you have to spray sideways or slightly upside down briefly Tip the gun to the left. And not on the side with the check valve. If the spray seems a little intermittant. Its a blockage. A quick back flush with ur tshirt is a temp fix. If you use the filter inside the cup. Make sure its not dried at the bottom and pressed to close on the pipe. (Referring to the Elite Guns btw)
> 
> Had similar issues with my other turbines, but mostly after switching to WB, and not cleaning enough. I'll spray 3-4 days a week. Daily clean in a sink with dish soap. Every week or two. Thorough clean with alcohol.


I strain and have my guys strain all the material using the cone filters (medium mesh if I remember correctly?). I don't use the filter on the gun as it became a pain to clean and then ended up getting bent (the screen). So blockage, other than dried material inside the cup shouldn't happen. If it's pressurized I don't see how it would dry fast enough inside the cup for a 15 or 20 minute spray job.

I have experienced it dry on the tip of the needle/air nozzle, but that's another matter. I usually wipe the needle after I depress the trigger and have to move around so I don't get any spits when it sprays again, very important when staining. I don't have issues with spitting, but it's a precautionary measure. 

When you clean it, you spray material through the gun I'm sure. Do you flush with water, lacquer thinner, alcohol or a mix of water and solvent? I usually do water, solvent or mix water/solvent, then water finally so when we start up again we don't have issue with contamination. 

Maybe I don't scrub it often enough. I usually have the guys use the spiral brushes to actually get in and clean the intake tube. I've noticed that a lot of material has gotten past the check valve, which in my opinion, is a joke of what it should be. A plastic insert that looks like scrap plastic and has a tendency to come lose and move around a lot. I just don't see it doing it's job because material has actually gone past it and into where the needle/screw in part is located, which takes FOREVER to clean nothing other than a round brush gets into. 

Weird that we have to come up with these tweaks for new systems huh? Maybe it's the norm, who knows.


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

woodcoyote said:


> I strain and have my guys strain all the material using the cone filters (medium mesh if I remember correctly?). I don't use the filter on the gun as it became a pain to clean and then ended up getting bent (the screen). So blockage, other than dried material inside the cup shouldn't happen. If it's pressurized I don't see how it would dry fast enough inside the cup for a 15 or 20 minute spray job. I have experienced it dry on the tip of the needle/air nozzle, but that's another matter. I usually wipe the needle after I depress the trigger and have to move around so I don't get any spits when it sprays again, very important when staining. I don't have issues with spitting, but it's a precautionary measure. When you clean it, you spray material through the gun I'm sure. Do you flush with water, lacquer thinner, alcohol or a mix of water and solvent? I usually do water, solvent or mix water/solvent, then water finally so when we start up again we don't have issue with contamination. Maybe I don't scrub it often enough. I usually have the guys use the spiral brushes to actually get in and clean the intake tube. I've noticed that a lot of material has gotten past the check valve, which in my opinion, is a joke of what it should be. A plastic insert that looks like scrap plastic and has a tendency to come lose and move around a lot. I just don't see it doing it's job because material has actually gone past it and into where the needle/screw in part is located, which takes FOREVER to clean nothing other than a round brush gets into. Weird that we have to come up with these tweaks for new systems huh? Maybe it's the norm, who knows.


I will spray water thru the gun when i'm onsite just to flush it clean. Throw it in a sink when i walk in my house with warm water and soap for a 10-15 min soak. Pull out a little tool box with cleaning items. And wash it out (5-10 mins). Before reassembly i (don't laugh) use this little white plunger thing i had bought from the drug store (for cleaning ears or something - for one of my kids). I will squeeze some alcohol a few times thru all the holes. Let dry. Reassemble while the tassimo brews the morning coffee. 

And yes the valve is a joke. I use 4 elites. One for lights, darks, stains and top coats. Even with the warm air of the turbine mixed with the fast dry wb laqs and straining and debris issues - i'll still never go back to solvent.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Would be interested to see the tool you use. You never know, some things you wouldn't think would work or could work...work really well.

I agree with you on using all WB stuff, I've converted everything over. But I still like to use lacquer thinner to clean the metal can and all that stuff. I know it's strong enough to cut through a bunch of stuff and for some reason when I use it I feel it's clean(er). Kinda like lisol or clorox, doesn't necessarily mean the whole thing is clean but makes you feel better lol.

Good idea on the light/dark/ top coat/stains. I do something very similar but with my AAA hoses.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

woodcoyote said:


> Can the PPS even be used with the elite gun? I guess now that I think about it, it probably could. But how exactly would that solve the leak/pressure issue (screw on versus the pressure wings setup) ??
> 
> I wonder how the accuspray systems hold up in comparison to the capspray/graco units. Just a curious thought.


They have adapters for most guns. It removed the cup altogether and it is impossible for the fluid to get into the air pressure line, completely seperate. He duck bill style gave me fits as well. Seals would go bad frequently and tightening the life enough to stop leaks only seems to make the leaking problem worse. I even warped the lid on the graco guns a time or two.


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

woodcoyote said:


> Would be interested to see the tool you use. You never know, some things you wouldn't think would work or could work...work really well. I agree with you on using all WB stuff, I've converted everything over. But I still like to use lacquer thinner to clean the metal can and all that stuff. I know it's strong enough to cut through a bunch of stuff and for some reason when I use it I feel it's clean(er). Kinda like lisol or clorox, doesn't necessarily mean the whole thing is clean but makes you feel better lol. Good idea on the light/dark/ top coat/stains. I do something very similar but with my AAA hoses.


Behold! The best tool for cleaning my guns is this thingy for noses and ear cleaning. Pushes and pulls high powered air and fluids for about $1 lol
I'm holding it next to the gun to show it's relative size.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Danahy said:


> Behold! The best tool for cleaning my guns is this thingy for noses and ear cleaning. Pushes and pulls high powered air and fluids for about $1 lol I'm holding it next to the gun to show it's relative size.


Cool tip for the nose cleaner thingy! 

I've never had a problem with the air leaking at the gasket of my Elite gun. I have the 115 aetup as well. I don't over tighten the cup, just tight enough. 

I have had paint get past the check valve. Only once or twice. I bought the gun cleaning kit someone linked on here from Rudd co. They're actually a good local resource in Seattle for spraying, but have an online store for stuff as well. I typically only use water to clean my gun out when using WB. Preferably hot water and a sink when available. 
I don't have the gravity gun yet, not sure if that's what the op has. I wasn't clear on that. I would like to get ahold of one. 

I think it helps to only fill the quart cup about 3/4 full. Otherwise I think it's more likely to get paint up the air hose, and possibly to the check valve. While the check valve is a funny little plastic disc, I like it better than the old style. I've gone through a lot of the old style when I had my accuspray gun. 

I would be really interested to hear if anyone has used the 2 quart remote system and how it performed,...did it still have good power etc? 

Oh yeah, I haven't even switched out my first cup gasket yet. Maybe I should have, but seems tight still


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

DeanV said:


> They have adapters for most guns. It removed the cup altogether and it is impossible for the fluid to get into the air pressure line, completely seperate. He duck bill style gave me fits as well. Seals would go bad frequently and tightening the life enough to stop leaks only seems to make the leaking problem worse. I even warped the lid on the graco guns a time or two.


Interesting, but if I remember correctly the PPS cups/system has either limited reusability or can't be re-used. Maybe that is the plastic liner inside it? Would be curious to see or know more about your setup, which adapter you use for the capspray gun.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Danahy said:


> Behold! The best tool for cleaning my guns is this thingy for noses and ear cleaning. Pushes and pulls high powered air and fluids for about $1 lol
> I'm holding it next to the gun to show it's relative size.



Cool tool. You use that to flush inside the siphon tube where the paint/liquid gets sucked up or do you use it everywhere else (where the air cap gets removed) ??

I could see how that would work well for you, if we need to force liquid up, I usually get the garden hose and force water up the intake if I have to lol. Your system seems more controlled lol.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Cool tip for the nose cleaner thingy!
> 
> I've never had a problem with the air leaking at the gasket of my Elite gun. I have the 115 aetup as well. I don't over tighten the cup, just tight enough.
> 
> ...



Yes I noticed that filling it with less material will help sometimes as well for the check-valve leak issue. As well as how it is held, although I feel if they had installed a better check-valve you could tilt it without issue/less issue. 

I'm curious to hear more about the 2-quart remote cup as well. When I had the 5th leak, I actually got to the point of dragging out the remote cup, but never ended up using it....stuff getting in the way or distracting me. 

My theory behind the remote cup is that it might solve the issue complete because i think the hose goes directly to the intake tube and doesn't need a cup etc. However, it seems just like another thing to lug around, especially if I only have to spray 8 oz or 16 oz of fluid vs. 64 oz capacity. 

But who knows, if this solves the issue then maybe that's what I do from here on out, the pump isn't all that large but I can't remember the size of the material hose for it. Anyone got one? I tend to do a lot of work around the 10ft level, between 7ft and 15ft. Question is: Will it reach?

Edit: I have both the elite gun (siphon fed) and the smaller gravity gun. Gravity gun has less leak issue, but holds less material and doesn't always fit in certain places. The issue i'm having is with my siphon fed. I actually like double check put in place on the gravity gun better than the siphon...fuji has a similar setup to titan's gravity gun, but for their siphon guns. solves a lot of problems. Titan should just cut and paste what they have on the gravity gun and put it on their siphon guns.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> Yes, sorry in my rushed rant I forgot to say that it is the 'gun' part vs. the turbine unit that is the issue. I'm happy with the turbine, has a lot of power, a place to put the gun etc. etc. Titan was running (probably still is) a special where you get a gravity fed gun as a rebate. It is gravity gun so it operates differently, it has basically 2 check valves which is nice and seems to work better than the elite series gun. Which is what I have (elite series gun). I wonder if the gravity gun they sent is basically like your maxum. The elite gun comes with the capspray 115, higher-end unit supposedly with a higher end gun <shrugs>. I should ask the service repairman if he can just call the warranty for a new gun lol. I don't want to order one because it's $350, which I feel I don't need to spend since it's a brand new unit still under warranty. If it was an older unit or used or whatever, than that's the way the dice rolled. But it isn't. I"ll have to look into this as a possible solution.


Just like anything else manufacturers make improved models- and their improved model has glitches. I've noticed that through the years with every and all things made. I'd get another gun. Why mess with it and why lump the baby and the bath water together? If I used that HVLP a lot, which I don't, I'd want a couple guns around anyway. I like that maxim 2 gun. It's not gravity fed but it's dependable. The plus on the gravity fed is all the material in the cup drops to the needle but so what if it is nothing but problems.


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## Hog (Apr 4, 2013)

I've got the same set up, the gun is more adjustable than older models, but defiantly needs to be really clean, I use welding tip cleaners, pipe cleaners, and a spray gun brush cleaner set and scrub after each major use. Make sure that check valve is really clean in and around it. I use water, alcohol, lacquer thinner, or spirits, whatever cuts what product last used, I break it all down pretty often, takes maybe 10 15 minutes. 
One of my workers over tightens the cup clamp, I usually just tap the pegs down with a hammer. I keep spray cap and tip soaking in solvent, in cup when not in use.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Yeah Hog, you actually keep them probably cleaner than we do...maybe I should just be more picky about it. We don't typically soak the needles in solvent until use, we usually just clean the tip and make sure it works good, no dried material on the tip and that's about it. Maybe we should try that too.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I just wipe a little Vaseline on the needle before inserting it through the packing nut. After shooting I'll take it out and have a look. Wipe off if necessary. Normally the needle is clean. I'd worry about damaging the needle if it was banging around in a cup or something, but then I worry about too much stuff. I do like how easy the Elite gun is to break down and clean.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I just wipe a little Vaseline on the needle before inserting it through the packing nut. After shooting I'll take it out and have a look. Wipe off if necessary. Normally the needle is clean. I'd worry about damaging the needle if it was banging around in a cup or something, but then I worry about too much stuff. I do like how easy the Elite gun is to break down and clean.


Yes, I agree they did do that part right. Break down is awesome on the elite gun, you can basically get to every part you need to very easily as opposed to other models which either can't be taken apart or just is a real pain.

Good idea on the vaseline, we usually shoot it with WD or even the lubricant sprays before we insert the needle.


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