# Wood deck gap-filling primer/paint



## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

This is for a deck on a rental property. The owner wants it stained but I was telling them that the wood is so messed up - and splintery in some parts - that stain won't be the safe way to go.

Some of the boards will need to be replaced, but the less extreme ones can stay, and I was thinking of just painting it a light/woodish color. What product will help fill the gaps in the wood?

I can across this stuff, can anyone vouch for it?:

http://www.superdeck.com/mobile/products/product?id=271


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Myself I'm not a huge fan of these decking products. I would use a deck and fence paint and put first coat down heavy. or spot paint all the cracks first then 2 coats.

Sand as much of those trouble areas as best you can to eliminate splinters.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

After looking better at the pics. Will you be power washing that deck? Honestly those boards are so messed up it's better to replace them all. There are some huge gaps between the decking, it should be a lot tighter.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

Its already been pressure washed.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

beedoola said:


> This is for a deck on a rental property. The owner wants it stained but I was telling them that the wood is so messed up - and splintery in some parts - that stain won't be the safe way to go.
> 
> Some of the boards will need to be replaced, but the less extreme ones can stay, and I was thinking of just painting it a light/woodish color. What product will help fill the gaps in the wood?


I would sand it and apply a semi-solid penetrating stain. Sanding will solve the splintering and a good penetrating stain will hydrate and hide some of the ugly.

With that much cracking and gaps any film forming coating would come up sooner than later. You could put the Mad Dog Deck Fix down, and would be your best bet if going with a latex, but I think the semi-solid would still be the best way to go.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

I sanded some of the bad spots, but that didn't help. The bad boards will be replaced.

How did you sand the deck in the pictures ?


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## Ryanmyers (May 17, 2016)

*superdeck is great!*

We do customer deck builds as well as deck refinishing. We use SuperDeck products exclusively for 99% of all projects.

Our latest project has SuperDeck semi trans on the deck boards and we used the SuperDeck Deck and Dock Elastomeric coating on the railings to make them look like composite.

The SuperDeck is a buildable product and is best applied thick. We use a Titan 840 to spray it, but it works well brushed and rolled.

on heavily damaged wood, we will use the 1050A caulk (or wood filler and sand if on railings) and then apply at least 2 thick coats of the deck and dock.

For a rental property, this is the way to go as long as the deck is structurally sound and the owner wants to get a few more years out of it.

You WILL NOT get more than 100 sq ft out of each gallon, buy more than you need.

The product dries ridiculously fast and is ready for service is less than 24 hours.

As with any project, prep is key. I have heard/seen all the horror stories about these types of products, but have been using them for years without issue.

Just this week, Sherwin Williams introduced tintable bases for the SuperDeck line and just today, we had 5 gallons tinted to a pella trim color for a customer and it was an exact match.

Good luck with your project!!!


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

beedoola said:


> I sanded some of the bad spots, but that didn't help. The bad boards will be replaced.
> 
> How did you sand the deck in the pictures ?




http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/mobile/Square_Buff_Floor_Sander/07014A/index.html


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## tnw322 (Jun 6, 2016)

Using deck and dock on vertical surfaces, good luck...


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Yeah, I wouldn't put the Super Deck, or any of those high build products on that. You would be creating a maintenance nightmare. I did a few decks with the SD, and the Rescue a few years ago. All of them went to sh!t pretty quickly and peeled. 

I'm not saying they can't work, but from my experience and all the feedback from other painters on here and elsewhere, those products are basically failures waiting to happen when used in situations like that. 

I would soak it down with a semi solid or semi trans. Get as much material soaked into the wood as possible. That'll stretch the life of the wood for a few more years maybe, and not end up a peeling disaster like so many decks done with the high build products have. 


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

SuperDeck has a wide range of oil and water based products. I've had great results with the SuperDeck solid stain.




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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I just wouldn't use Superdeck. I've seen way to many failing decks that were done with that stuff.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

I Just did a deck in Super Deck Elastomeric. Looks fantastic. For people saying i don't use high build paints on decks have u ever actually used the Super Deck Elastomeric. Its not a thick coating at all. Its super thing like a paint/water mix of 50/50. I never use the QD 1050 on any exterior. Dried to hard and has little to no flex and will crack out in less than a year. I always use Top Gun 400 from dulux. Best caulking for anything inside or out IMO. Key is to pressure was like you did. Let it dry completely, sand and 3 coats of Elastomeric. The deck in the picture was close to looking like the 1 in yours. Some posts as u can see had large splits. So i used the 400 caulking in them


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