# Painting new basement



## Gambling88 (Dec 1, 2008)

I might get this painting job that is for a newly finished basement with new drywall put up. Is what I have to do correct or is there more? 1)Dust off the newly taped and sanded drywall with a broom or dusting tool of somekind 2) Coat of primer 3) Two coats of paint
Can I skip the dusting off and just start priming?
In the bathroom it is greenboard. (mold resistent drywall that is green) Do I use the same primer for that just as if it was regular drywall and does that only need one coat?
When is the proper time to do the priming and painting? I would like to do it before the trim and flooring is in to make it easier?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Hey, welcome Gambling.

In a word NO you absolutely can not skip dusting, and a mere sweeping is not enough. You may even need to do more filling and sanding after you prime.

What paint will you be using? Roller, spray, brush ?

But tell us more about yourself.

By your questions, it sounds like you are very very new to the painting trade. Don't take this the wrong way, but your questions are really at the newest of novice level. 

I don't want to chase someone away who wants to learn, so if you tell us what you have for experience and even equipment, we can form our answers to be the most helpful.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

daArch said:


> Hey, welcome Gambling.
> 
> In a word NO you absolutely can not skip dusting, and a mere sweeping is not enough. You may even need to do more filling and sanding after you prime.
> 
> ...


Good post Bill, very tactful.
I agree with what Bill said.


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## scholarlypainting (Sep 30, 2008)

agreed, get into more of what you plan attacking this job with, we can give you a better response..


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Or you might consider hiring a painter. :whistling2:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

ProWallGuy said:


> Or you might consider hiring a painter. :whistling2:


I agree whith ProWall. Very profound, gives one ownership. :excl:


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## Gambling88 (Dec 1, 2008)

I am fairly new to painting for money. I would like to get side jobs just to bring in a steady income while I try other ventures but getting jobs with only word of mouth advertising when I hear someone needs some painting done has brought in little. I will be using a brush to do all the cutting in and a roller for the rest. I will use a 1 inch and 2 inch handcraft brush and just the generic 3/8" roller pads unless something different is recommended. As of paint, I don't know what to use. I want to get this job so I will leave my options of paint open. Either high, low, or middle quality. If it is up to me I will just get the SW Promar 200 unless I have better opinions. I have to read more up on that. I plan on charging about $1.50 Sf of surface for prime and 2 coats paint and the custumer will pay for paint. Does that sound fair?


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Gambling88 said:


> I am fairly new to painting for money. I would like to get side jobs just to bring in a steady income while I try other ventures but getting jobs with only word of mouth advertising when I hear someone needs some painting done has brought in little. I will be using a brush to do all the cutting in and a roller for the rest. I will use a 1 inch and 2 inch handcraft brush and just the generic 3/8" roller pads :hammer: unless something different is recommended. As of paint, I don't know what to use. :hammer: I want to get this job so I will leave my options of paint open. :hammer: Either high, low, or middle quality. If it is up to me I will just get the SW Promar 200 :hammer: unless I have better opinions. :hammer: I have to read more up on that. :hammer: I plan on charging about $1.50 Sf of surface for prime and 2 coats paint and the custumer will pay for paint. :hammer: Does that sound fair?


:wallbash:


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> :wallbash:


ewing crossed the line:yes:


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Gambling88 said:


> I am fairly new to painting for money. I would like to get side jobs just to bring in a steady income while I try other ventures but getting jobs with only word of mouth advertising when I hear someone needs some painting done has brought in little. I will be using a brush to do all the cutting in and a roller for the rest. I will use a 1 inch and 2 inch handcraft brush and just the generic 3/8" roller pads unless something different is recommended. As of paint, I don't know what to use. I want to get this job so I will leave my options of paint open. Either high, low, or middle quality. If it is up to me I will just get the SW Promar 200 unless I have better opinions. I have to read more up on that. I plan on charging about $1.50 Sf of surface for prime and 2 coats paint and the custumer will pay for paint. Does that sound fair?


 
My opinion only.

Buy great brushes. If you are considering doing this for profit. Purchase at the minimum a 2" Purdy Clearcut and a 3" Purdy Cleacut brush. They will last years if maintained. They will pickup, hold and release more paint than the "cheap" crap. A one inch brush will take you forever to cut in with.
If you buy the cheapest pads, they will shed all over your new paint job. If you have to get them, wash and spin them first. Better yet buy some Purdy "White Dove's" or Wooster's 50/50. (50% wool & 50% poly) Good tools make for a good job.
Dust, or vacumn the walls. 
Prime with any drywall sealer since you are applying two coats of finish.
Don't assume the drywall guy did a good job. Shine a light at an angle to the wall. This will cast shadows showing any defects. 
Fix the defects. (did I really need to say that?)
Spot prime any repairs. (sand them smooth first)
Sand the walls again. 
Dust again.
Cut in the walls with the finish. Twice.
Roll on a coat of finish.
Eat lunch, smoke a cigar, post on paint talk. (and no, not all of the previous!)
When first coat is dry, roll second coat.
Clean up.
Collect pay.
Repeat.
You paint choice is subjective. If you like ProMar use it. Don't go any lower on the S/W quality ladder. (unless its new construction)

Just MHO


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

The only item I disagree with bikerboy is how to remove the dust - but that's because as a paperhanger, we need the substrate to be VERY secure. No dust at all. 

I would vacuum first and them wipe with a Swifter or a barely damp Micro Fiber Towel. I run my bare hand over the surface, and if ANY dust shows on it, I wipe again.

Is this overkill? You betcha. I can take NO chance that the substrate is less than 100% secure as wallpaper when drying will put quite a bit of lateral force on the paint. Many will correctly say that paint don't subject the substrate to the same forces. But going the extra mile won't kill ya.


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## Gambling88 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks alot, this post helps alot.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

I would like to congratulate the active members of Paint Talk. You have all done well with this thread. One step forward for this place, and I think it would be do to Bills great moderation skills and example setting.

This one's for you Bill. :drink:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

JNLP said:


> I would like to congratulate the active members of Paint Talk. You have all done well with this thread. One step forward for this place, and I think it would be do to Bills great moderation skills and example setting.
> 
> This one's for you Bill. :drink:


Why thanks ! Just make sure that glass is a single malt, Laphroaig 10 year cask strength, if you don't mind :thumbup:


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