# Another Texture Removal Thread



## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

My customer would like this texture removed from multiple walls. I plan to skim coat afterwards. 

I have the Festool ETS 125 and RO 90 with the Midi. Will this do the trick? Seems like most use the Planex. I don't get enough of this type of work to justify a Planex.

Thoughts?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Knock down the high spots and skim. A planex or any other sander will not rip through the paint enough to get you to true. Drywall mud is one thing, paint melts and sticks to the sanding disks. Its a hard road to get to smooth.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I figured as much. This is some pretty gnarly stuff.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Even with a p lanex , I tried 36 on stomp earlier this year. its just melts the paint .
I made better time just skimming and 're texture .
p lanex just sits in the garage waiting for something to do.
I like to use it for sanding walls .
I should just sell it.
I rather use a mirka Ceros .
way more practical Sander for me.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I need to remove some crows-foot texture next week, but just around some ceiling patches.

(Slinger told me to do that to prevent "patch bump")

I think I'm gonna try a belt sander first.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

When my girl's were little they could have done a better job of hawk and trowel. That's a good thing to get rid of.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We knock down the high spots and skim it.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

cdpainting said:


> We knock down the high spots and skim it.


Some of the "high" spots are more like "very high" spots. I'm confident about two of the rooms. But the pictured area, not so much. It would be easier to tear the walls down.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I'm also thinking the texture is simply troweled joint compound. I'm wondering if opening the surface with 36 grit and then spraying with water will work.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

epretot said:


> I'm also thinking the texture is simply troweled joint compound. I'm wondering if opening the surface with 36 grit and then spraying with water will work.


If it's painted under the texture, that might do the trick. You might just try hitting a ridge with a scraper and wetting the texture material with water.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Even with a p lanex , I tried 36 on stomp earlier this year. its just melts the paint .
> I made better time just skimming and 're texture .
> p lanex just sits in the garage waiting for something to do.
> I like to use it for sanding walls .
> ...


How much do you want for the planex? 

Sent from my SM-G900V


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Gough said:


> If it's painted under the texture, that might do the trick. You might just try hitting a ridge with a scraper and wetting the texture material with water.


I'm definitely going to try that. Can't hurt.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> I need to remove some crows-foot texture next week, but just around some ceiling patches.
> 
> (Slinger told me to do that to prevent "patch bump")
> 
> I think I'm gonna try a belt sander first.


Be sure and have a video-camera running for this "belt-sander on drywall" experiment cuz this I gotta see. :brows:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

slinger58 said:


> Be sure and have a video-camera running for this "belt-sander on drywall" experiment cuz this I gotta see. :brows:


HA!
Hey man..I'm just thinking outside the paintbrush like Jmays told us to.

I won't use the whole belt, just the front roller.

Kinda lookin' forward to it now...and thanks to your little comment...no video for you!


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

slinger58 said:


> Be sure and have a video-camera running for this "belt-sander on drywall" experiment cuz this I gotta see. :brows:


When we've done flood-damage restoration and all GWB below 24" AFF had to be replaced, our standard procedure has been to use a belt sander to remove the texture for about 12"-18"above that point. Works like a charm.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Gough said:


> When we've done flood-damage restoration and all GWB below 24" AFF had to be replaced, our standard procedure has been to use a belt sander to remove the texture for about 12"-18"above that point. Works like a charm.


Thanks for helping me slap-down Slinger, Gough.

Here I am trying to boldly try something new to me..and what do I get? A snotty little comment from the peanut gallery!

(kidding Slinger, you know I love ya)

I've never tried it before, but I have 3 belt sanders (parents bought 2 of them for me as Christmas presents)and one of them is still in the box.

I don't think any kind of vibrating sander will have the "guts" to cut through all the old paint.
I know from experience that any kind of spinning disc will clog pretty fast.

What's left? Belt. Will it clog too fast? I dunno. 

I also considered putting some stripper on it and scraping it off.. but that sounds like a messy PITA.

Know what else I'm gonna try?
I'm gonna put a coat of peel bond on the new texture before paint. I'm thinking it should help round off the ridges of the new crows-foot, and make it match the existing better.


Sorry for the semi-derail, Ep. I think/hope your question got answered in the first reply. (although Goughs and your idea of wetting it may work too).:thumbsup:


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve is rig...righ...ri. I just can't say it, but I think Steve isn't wrong. That's as close as I can come to using the "R" word.

Using the belt sander produces a smooth, wide area for mud and tape at the joint, and let's you taper in the texture. Use a coarse belt (80 has worked for us) and a light touch.

Instead of Peel Bond, we've use block filler to "bury" the fresh texture, but any thick costing should work. We're just trying to mimic the effect of multiple layers of paint. I've also see guys use a wet sponge to "soften" the new texture, but that's mainly been with orange peel or knockdown.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Gough said:


> Use a coarse belt (80 has worked for us) and a light touch. That's my plan
> 
> Instead of Peel Bond, we've use block filler to "bury" the fresh texture, but any thick costing should work. We're just trying to mimic the effect of multiple layers of paint. I've also see guys use a wet sponge to "soften" the new texture, but that's mainly been with orange peel or knockdown.


I don't have any block filler on-hand...my plan is also to not have to buy anything.

I've tried the sponge technique a thousand times with varying degrees of success. I'll (at least) try the peel bond this time.

I'll take some pictures, but only post them if it works.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> I don't have any block filler on-hand...my plan is also to not have to buy anything.
> 
> I've tried the sponge technique a thousand times with varying degrees of success. I'll (at least) try the peel bond this time.
> 
> I'll take some pictures, but only post them if it works.


So you're taking a page from daArch's book, ya cheap b*****d.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> HA!
> Hey man..I'm just thinking outside the paintbrush like Jmays told us to.
> 
> I won't use the whole belt, just the front roller.
> ...


Ha! I'll catch it on youtube. :jester:


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Steve Richards said:


> Thanks for helping me slap-down Slinger, Gough.
> 
> Here I am trying to boldly try something new to me..and what do I get? A snotty little comment from the peanut gallery!
> 
> ...


No worries SR, I got a good laugh.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

slinger58 said:


> [/COLOR]
> 
> Ha! I'll catch it on youtube. :jester:


:thumbsup: 
Look for "Painter belt-sands through ceiling drywall, discovers mice in attic."


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

Steve Richards said:


> HA!
> Hey man..I'm just thinking outside the paintbrush like Jmays told us to.
> 
> I won't use the whole belt, just the front roller.
> ...


Its ideas like this that will get you Paint Pro of the month..... and you won't have to wait until 2017.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Update..it worked ok. Not great, but good enough that I'll try it again the next chance I get.
Next time I'll break down and spend some money for a new belt too.

The (old 80 grit) belt didn't clog, probably because it wasn't moving fast enough to heat up the paint much and/or it really wasn't that big of area anyhow.

I didn't take any pictures because the HO was watching me...and I didn't want her to think I didn't know what the hell I was doing.

Sorry if anyone was waiting for definitive results, cuz I don't have any yet.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> Update..it worked ok. Not great, but good enough that I'll try it again the next chance I get.
> Next time I'll break down and spend some money for a new belt too.
> 
> The (old 80 grit) belt didn't clog, probably because it wasn't moving fast enough to heat up the paint much and/or it really wasn't that big of area anyhow.
> ...


As my teachers used to write in the margins of some of my papers, 'WW".

Meanning: Wrong Word


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

The first time I ever grouted tile..an apartment manager asked if I knew how..I said "sure" :thumbsup:... so he hands me a box of grout.

As soon as he left the room, I sat down and read the directions.


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