# Milesi Vs Renner for cabinets



## ptspainter

I’ve been hearing quite a bit about Milesi paint for cabinets. I watched a video tonight from the Idaho painter talking about Renner products. Can someone explain to me how these work? Do you order their paint and have it mixed then use their top coat? Or do you use a water based paint of your choosing then use their top coat? Sorry if the questions seem dumb but I’ve always used Advance and am extremely new to these type of products.


----------



## MikeCalifornia

Those are manufacturers that use Italian WB poly technology. Each manuafacturer has many different product to choose from, so it depends on what you want for the project. The big hitters right now are 1k and 2k polys. You will want to contact a vendor, unless you have one local, to have your color mixed and shipped to you. What you will get is essentially products that have super stain resistance, hard yet flexibility. I think Renner has the better feedback, but Melesi is top not too.


Note: If you are on Facebook, you should join this group
Professional Refinishers Chatroom


----------



## ptspainter

Thanks for your reply! So do these products only work together? Do you need to use their 3 specific products together? I have a friend who just switched from Advance to Milesi and she said she is still having to touch up during door installation. I’ve used Scuff X the last few kitchens and it’s the first time since doing cabinets I’ve never did a touch up after installation. The Scuff X sprays beautifully and is crazy hard, just concerned on long term durability. Overwhelmed with all the info I’m reading on the Renner/Milesi because they are a whole different beast than the products I’m use to.


----------



## ptspainter

MikeCalifornia said:


> Those are manufacturers that use Italian WB poly technology. Each manuafacturer has many different product to choose from, so it depends on what you want for the project. The big hitters right now are 1k and 2k polys. You will want to contact a vendor, unless you have one local, to have your color mixed and shipped to you. What you will get is essentially products that have super stain resistance, hard yet flexibility. I think Renner has the better feedback, but Melesi is top not too.
> 
> 
> Note: If you are on Facebook, you should join this group
> Professional Refinishers Chatroom


Thanks for your reply! So do these products only work together? Do you need to use their 3 specific products together? I have a friend who just switched from Advance to Milesi and she said she is still having to touch up during door installation. I’ve used Scuff X the last few kitchens and it’s the first time since doing cabinets I’ve never did a touch up after installation. The Scuff X sprays beautifully and is crazy hard, just concerned on long term durability. Overwhelmed with all the info I’m reading on the Renner/Milesi because they are a whole different beast than the products I’m use to.


----------



## MikeCalifornia

ptspainter said:


> Thanks for your reply! So do these products only work together? Do you need to use their 3 specific products together? I have a friend who just switched from Advance to Milesi and she said she is still having to touch up during door installation. I’ve used Scuff X the last few kitchens and it’s the first time since doing cabinets I’ve never did a touch up after installation. The Scuff X sprays beautifully and is crazy hard, just concerned on long term durability. Overwhelmed with all the info I’m reading on the Renner/Milesi because they are a whole different beast than the products I’m use to.



Honestly, if you are not a full time cabinet refinisher, I wouldn't even think about this stuff. I am nervous about the thinning, hardeners, stabilizers, and other stuff you have to mix to get it right. Most are saying airless is the best option for spraying wb poly's, and it requires a unique technique for it to lay down right. I'm good with pre-cat solvent lacquer for my work.


----------



## sayn3ver

Waiting for input on these as well. 

I know the extender and hardener for target coatings requires long mix times (5 min continuous) and then time allotted to sit an activate. And of course there's always a chance of getting old stock in either the finish and or the hardener and then causing issues after application with final film. 

I'm sure these other waterborne products are similar.


----------



## MikeCalifornia

A good compromise for the average finisher would be General finishes white poly. Its a 1k. Waterbased, easy to apply, can be tinted, also comes in black and clear for tinting to dark colors or clear coats.


----------



## sayn3ver

MikeCalifornia said:


> A good compromise for the average finisher would be General finishes white poly. Its a 1k. Waterbased, easy to apply, can be tinted, also comes in black and clear for tinting to dark colors or clear coats.


Everytime I'm about to order general finishes pigmented poly I end up finding something new locally to try. 

Your recommendation may finally push me to try it. Which application method have you had the most success with. Hvlp, ass or airless?


----------



## MikeCalifornia

sayn3ver said:


> Everytime I'm about to order general finishes pigmented poly I end up finding something new locally to try.
> 
> Your recommendation may finally push me to try it. Which application method have you had the most success with. Hvlp, ass or airless?



I only spray AAA, I have no patience for HVLP. Although, I am hearing the new poly's are getting the best results with straight airless?


----------



## stelzerpaintinginc.

MikeCalifornia said:


> I only spray AAA, I have no patience for HVLP. Although, I am hearing the new poly's are getting the best results with straight airless?


I've heard the same thing and probably from the same sources, if it's a FB group you're referring to. Although I do value much of what one of the particular sources contributes, do keep in mind that he also swears that the Magnum X 5 Home Depot airless is the best machine for the job.


----------



## GBH2

MikeCalifornia said:


> I only spray AAA, I have no patience for HVLP. Although, I am hearing the new poly's are getting the best results with straight airless?


Straight airless works well for 2k poly. AAA is nice and does give you a little more control but after a while the tips start caking up and stuff starts blowing into the work. Trying to wipe the tip as I go (which you do need to do with airless, also) and I end up clogging up some of the air holes and then it is a huge hassle. As long as you use the right tips and dial in the pressure correctly and can nail down the speed and how much material you are putting on there really isn't any difference in the quality of the finished product between airless and AAA - and you can get it done quicker.


----------



## davidch14

I am very interested in trying either milesi or renner out for more higher end molding and trim work... currently leaning towards renner using 851 w/1k and 2k apps. Anyone with experience with this setup... I typ use bm adv and sw eu, but don't care for the slight yellowing that can occur in whites in low uv areas due to the alkyd. Also curious how the sheens match up. Renner list 20 as a satin, 30 as a semi (could not confirm if those #s represent real sheen levels at 60 or 85 deg). How do those compare to adv satin or semi?


----------



## mug

Well one day I will write a long post or something about all the cabinet painting products I've used. 

I have used Milesi lately and even applying it as 1k is really good stuff. The last job I added the catalyst hardener and am completely sold. I added 10% and used a #5 in my hvlp because it was so hot I needed more material. 

Here is the product in 20 sheen. Btw I stacked the doors within 24hrs. No touch ups.


----------



## finishesbykevyn

mug said:


> Well one day I will write a long post or something about all the cabinet painting products I've used.
> I have used Milesi lately and even applying it as 1k is really good stuff.
> The last job I added the catalyst hardener and am completely sold. I added 10% and used a #5 in my hvlp because it was so hot I needed more material.
> Here is the product in 20 sheen.
> Btw I stacked the doors within 24hrs. No touch ups.


Very nice. Is that stuff brushable? Water or chemical Clean up?


----------



## mug

finishesbykevyn said:


> mug said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well one day I will write a long post or something about all the cabinet painting products I've used.
> I have used Milesi lately and even applying it as 1k is really good stuff.
> The last job I added the catalyst hardener and am completely sold. I added 10% and used a #5 in my hvlp because it was so hot I needed more material.
> Here is the product in 20 sheen.
> Btw I stacked the doors within 24hrs. No touch ups.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Is that stuff brushable? Water or chemical Clean up?
Click to expand...

Brushed and rolled very good. I used Wooster pro foam roller on the end panels and was very pleased! Water based product.


----------



## Rbriggs82

Where are you buying it from? Do you have to have it shipped? 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## mug

Rbriggs82 said:


> Where are you buying it from? Do you have to have it shipped?
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


[email protected] you could email personally or for orders..
[email protected]

It takes a bit of planning as I usually get it within 3 or 4 days. They can do Benjamin Moore or Sherwin colors with just the color name/number upon ordering.

I initially contacted them for a mistint to play around with while saving some money.
The product costs around 80 bucks shipped for me (Sorry "$50 guy" )


----------



## Rbriggs82

mug said:


> [email protected] you could email personally or for orders..
> [email protected]
> 
> It takes a bit of planning as I usually get it within 3 or 4 days. They can do Benjamin Moore or Sherwin colors with just the color name/number upon ordering.
> I initially contacted them for a mistint to play around with while saving some money.
> The product costs around 80 bucks shipped for me (Sorry "$50 guy" )


I'm definitely going to shoot them an email. Good idea asking for a mistint! Does it matter what type of primer you use under it? I normally prime my cabinets with Bin. 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## mug

Rbriggs82 said:


> mug said:
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected] you could email personally or for orders..
> [email protected]
> 
> It takes a bit of planning as I usually get it within 3 or 4 days. They can do Benjamin Moore or Sherwin colors with just the color name/number upon ordering.
> I initially contacted them for a mistint to play around with while saving some money.
> The product costs around 80 bucks shipped for me (Sorry "$50 guy"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely going to shoot them an email. Good idea asking for a mistint! Does it matter what type of primer you use under it? I normally prime my cabinets with Bin.
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It has worked great with BIN!


----------



## Rbriggs82

I have zero experience this type of material.

From what I'm understanding the milesi comes as a one 1k and you add a cross linker which makes it 2k.

Here's my question, when doing cabinets can the frames be brushed and rolled when using it as a 1k? Also, can you spray the first coat on the doors in its 1k form then add the cross linker for the second coat? What are we looking at in terms of dry times both with and without the crosslinker?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## mug

Rbriggs82 said:


> I have zero experience this type of material.
> 
> From what I'm understanding the milesi comes as a one 1k and you add a cross linker which makes it 2k.
> 
> Here's my question, when doing cabinets can the frames be brushed and rolled when using it as a 1k? Also, can you spray the first coat on the doors in its 1k form then add the cross linker for the second coat? What are we looking at in terms of dry times both with and without the crosslinker?
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


Correct. Not adding the hardener keeps it 1k (like general finishes pigmented poly but better) 
I rolled and brushed frames in 1k. With a brush, the first coat goes on easily and smooth over bin. The second coat which should be applied within 1 to 3 hrs "bites" a little more so a little water can help. I believe they call this a chemical burn-in so you have to sand if after the time frame. 

I sprayed the doors heavy in 2k(hardener added) and I honestly couldn't find a reason to add another coat. Haven't tested applying the 2k over 1k basecoat yet. I'm sure it would be fine if within the time frames.


----------



## mug

Just stopping back by here for an update. Here is a picture of items for Milesi. The Ltc5 is for allowing more workability or using hvlp.
It is mixed at 5%. The hardener is 10%


----------



## Rbriggs82

I'm calling in an order of it tomorrow to test out on my cabs. We just got new counters installed and the wife wants to change the cabinet color and replace the floor (funny how things snowball) so it's a good opportunity to give it a trial run. I'm not going to use the hardener, figure if it goes well I'll work myself up to that. 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mayday's Custom Woodworks

I've sprayed Chemcraft solvent based and Scuff X for a few years. Then switched to General Finishes pre cat lacquer, poly, and occasionally their conversion varnish. Recently tried Chemcraft and Renner water based products and settled on Renner as the winner... Although Chemcraft makes some great stuff. Their aquaprime is pretty awesome. 

Nothing wrong with General Finishes products when laying the products flat, but most of their products have difficulty getting a perfect finish on vertical surfaces. You can add some accelerator which helps. You can do it but it's not easy and all your spray settings have to be right. Their Brushable Enamel hangs the best. It's general finishes version of BM Advance and SW Emerald. The Brushable Enamel is better than Advance or Emerald. Dries harder and faster... But unfortunately it only comes in light to medium tints. 

Renner products seem to be the most versatile that I've used. They aren't pre thinned like General Finishes stuff are, so you will likely struggle if your sprayer can't handle thick materials. And you need good atomization or it will have some bubbles just like General Finishes Products will. But Renner seems to be the best I've ever used to far. I can spray it out of my HVLP and airless both flat and vertical and have it lay down well (as long as you are getting proper atomization) otherwise it can look all bubbling or cottage cheesy.


----------



## WildBill

I know this is an older thread, but a quick follow up, going to go down this new path with Milesi, has anyone used a Graco FFLP Tip and if so what size tip, I was thinking a FFLP 308 or 310, is this too small? Using an Airless, I was told to start about a 1K PSI and go up from there, thoughts? Seen some Kitchen Cabinets Doors, looked amazing.


----------



## Masterwork

I think 308 or 310 will be fine. Pressure should be enough to eliminate the tails, and nothing more.


----------



## WildBill

Paint booth set up, "all systems go" for Saturday, hoping my techniques work as well as I seen others. Let you know how it works out.


----------



## jmcfarland

We spray the Milesi 2k with the graco air assist and use a 308-310. We have had very good success with this.


----------

