# Sheet Metal siding, suggestions?



## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

I have this project coming up in about a month:










What would be a good prep procedure and product?

I suspect a good TSP wash down, being it is chalky. Not too sure of product, I am thinking about Bond Plex by SW. I will be painting it a barn red with white trim at the top.

Just looking for some suggestions.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Pressure wash the chalk off use high pressure, small fan, get close and get as much off as you can. Check with your PPG dealer but Manor Hall used to be marketed as going over lightly chalked surfaces. This is what have done on aged metal siding for some years and have not had a failure. If you have rust, wire brush the loose stuff and give it a coat of Insul-X rust encapsulator. Give everything two coats of Manor Hall.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Here's a link to the TDS
http://www.pittsburghpaints.com/our_products/exterior_paints/manor_hall_exterior/index.htm


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I have all is add EB to the first coat with what ever your flavor of paint you want. A-100 or super paint has been the flavor of the month for me


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

2 coats of A-100 from SW after a good power washin' has given us great results. Like any paint job, the key is in the prep. Make sure the chalk is removed and any rust/etc is taken care of.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Mantis said:


> 2 coats of A-100 from SW after a good power washin' has given us great results. Like any paint job, the key is in the prep. Make sure the chalk is removed and any rust/etc is taken care of.


A-100 for metal? 

After a good cleaning I would spot prim and finish with DTM


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

Tonyg said:


> A-100 for metal?
> 
> After a good cleaning I would spot prim and finish with DTM


Yep. As long as it's clean and any bare spots are primed, you shouldnt have any problems with it, we havent. You could always use Metalatex from SW if youre apprehensive.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Mantis said:


> Yep. As long as it's clean and any bare spots are primed, you shouldnt have any problems with it, we havent. You could always use Metalatex from SW if youre apprehensive.


A-100 is not a metal primer. It is designed for wood and does not have any rust inhibitors in it. 

The SW DTM is pretty easy to spray on that.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Tonyg said:


> A-100 is not a metal primer. It is designed for wood and does not have any rust inhibitors in it.
> 
> The SW DTM is pretty easy to spray on that.


thats the ticket!


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

I would never use A-100. The one thing I don't like about it is: IT FADES! 

I have repainted (not mine) so many homes because of fading due to A-100.

DTM is promising.

Anyone heard of Bond Plex by SW?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Mantis said:


> 2 coats of A-100 from SW after a good power washin' has given us great results. Like any paint job, the key is in the prep. Make sure the chalk is removed and any rust/etc is taken care of.


I plain don't understand why anyone would use a100 for anything. It is only like a dollar a gallon less than superpaint and has no durability. If they just want a paint job superpaint, if they want a bomber coating use a waterborne DTM.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

tsunamicontract said:


> I plain don't understand why anyone would use a100 for anything. It is only like a dollar a gallon less than superpaint and has no durability. If they just want a paint job superpaint, if they want a bomber coating use a waterborne DTM.


 
I like the primer! It's the only wood primer I use for exterior. Never used the finish and wouldn't think I ever would.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

A-100 Oil primer is good stuff. Would never use the latex paint...

Bond Plex? Tell me, no one has ever heard it? I didn't until I called my SW Rep. Thoughts on BP?


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

You are not painting Direct To Metal. You are painting metal that has been painted. I have never used bondplex, but I did paint a couple of mobile homes 4 1/2 years ago with Kelly Moore's miricril (sp) and added Emolsa Bond. They still look great!


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## PVPainter (Jul 26, 2008)

If you use the DTM be very careful if spraying, I had to pay for 4 cars that were two blocks away to get detailed :thumbsup:


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> Here's a link to the TDS
> http://www.pittsburghpaints.com/our_products/exterior_paints/manor_hall_exterior/index.htm


Remember Biker he has the "awesome rep" from SW thats why he wants to use Bondplex...


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

If we can, I'd prefer to keep this to a more professional level rather than a place to abuse our freedom of speech in the form of sarcasm.


I never said I want to use Bondplex. I only mentioned that my SW rep suggested this product and was wondering if any one has heard of it or even used it. Really, all I am trying to do is get suggestions. I'll post after pics and the product of choice later. Yes I am leaning toward Bondplex, but have not made a decision at this moment because DTM would work as well and may be less costly. 

For some reason, I have a hard time considering a standard latex paint for this project.

I like the idea of DTM... I agree that DTM is for Direct To Metal and it is also good for repainting metal. I have repainted my utility trailers' angle iron structure with it and have had no flaking or pealing.


So far I have:
*Bondplex
DTM

*Any commercial painters out there with a good eye for product?

J


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Jason

Honestly, with a new to you product, I would get some (quart) and test it on an obscure area. See what you think. I am all for finding new solutions to old problems. Let me know what you find out...


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I like the idea of DTM... I agree that DTM is for Direct To Metal and it is also good for repainting metal. I have repainted my utility trailers' angle iron structure with it and have had no flaking or pealing.




DTM's seem to also be good on plastics and wood and other substrates. SW's DTM is very similar to their ASE. My SW rep says when I want just a quart of DTM or something with out too much sheen to just use the ASE.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Jason
> 
> Honestly, with a new to you product, I would get some (quart) and test it on an obscure area. See what you think. I am all for finding new solutions to old problems. Let me know what you find out...


Thanks VP, it's this kind of help I need. I rarely get into a position that I have something new to figure out, so the brain is not accustom to thinking about testing new product in obscure areas of the project. Thanks for the tip! :thumbsup:

Tsunami, 
Thanks for the heads up about ASE, I'll look into that as well. I am more familiar with DTM and have never heard of ASE, that I know of.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

All Surface Enamel. But I would recommend waterborne DTM. Thinking about it though Jason, you can only get a satin finish in a deep base (or maybe just ultra deep). So unless you plan on changing the color to a dark one or painting that shed a gleaming semi gloss finish you will need another plan. And make sure you get your sprayer and tip and technique dialed in before you start spraying out the shed. Won't it be nice to have a project that we don't hark on ya for not backbrushing? :whistling2::thumbup:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

I sampled ASE last month in a deep red and liked it.


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I took it that it was a aluminum metal siding when I said A-100. Other wise I to would would go DTM


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

What happened to that SW rep that gives you neck massages?


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> I sampled ASE last month in a deep red and liked it.


Deep Red is what the folks are looking at for color. I am transforming both the shop and their home to this color with white trim. They live in the deep woods of the west part of town and are surrounded by many farmers with red and white barns.... So, they want to blend in...


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Our prep consisted of a TSP wash down and followed with this:










That picture is on the roof. Now... I baught a scrubber that attaches to a pressure washer and intended to scrub the siding in this format that would also apply a solution.... Well... I did not have enough fittings to get the right combination for the scrubber to fit the pressure washer. So... Hmmm what to do? ..... I thought for a while, I looked at that big a$$ pressure washing tip and  the brightest idea came across me... Huh! I have never used that thing, lets see how it will work on this metal siding... OMG! It was the BOMB! It solved all of my problems. I followed the TSP manual scrup down (Scrub brush on a stick dipped out of a 5ver) with this tip and I almost took the paint off the metal siding! (a bit of exageration). Nonetheless, it took about 90% of the chalk off the siding.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Here are 3 samples of 

1) DTM
2) ASE
3) Bond Plex










Can any one guess the order of what is what sample from left to right?

Then! Can you see which has 2 coats and which has one? 

Match your guess of product to coverage.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Got body on today:










Sorry, it looks like the camera has some smudges.... :whistling2:


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## jr.painting (Aug 30, 2008)

Your doing a good job. Looks nice so far. Can't wait to see the finished results.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

jr.painting said:


> Your doing a good job. Looks nice so far. Can't wait to see the finished results.


Tomorrow! :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Finished:










I used Bond Plex on this project. I like how quickly it set up and how well it bonded to the siding. It bonded a lot sooner and was more durable than DTM or ASE.


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## jr.painting (Aug 30, 2008)

WOW, it looks very nice. Very bold to. Good job.

I will have to keep the Bond Plex in mind. Can't say I have ever used this stuff before.


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## Formulator (May 28, 2008)

Bender said:


> You are not painting Direct To Metal. You are painting metal that has been painted. I have never used bondplex, but I did paint a couple of mobile homes 4 1/2 years ago with Kelly Moore's miricril (sp) and added Emolsa Bond. They still look great!


 
Yeah, but you have to remember that the metal is coil coated which will give you problems with adhesion. DTMs will, in general, have the best adhesion you can get, so it would be a good choice in my opinion.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

From what I understand... (limited) is that Bond Plex is an upgrade from DTM. If that means anything...

I sure like how it responded. 

We did do some prep on rusted areas and applied the DTM as a primer under the Bond Plex. It seemed logical to use the DTM for what it was meant for prior to the Bond Plex in those areas.


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