# Painting Interior balusters/Railings



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

What's your system for painting Interior balusters/Railings?

I've never sprayed any before and have always turned down those jobs.

We just painted an entire house and the homeowner wants her old oak railings painted. You know the type; clear coated over stain and about 50 years old.

What's your go-to coating? A handyman told the homeowner to use a clear poly over the handrail finish like BM "Stays Clear".

This looks like a good opportunity to try Kem Aqua semi-gloss. I'll bet it is a tougher finish than BM Stays clear.

I'm thinking:

Bin Primer & Kem Aqua. 

Tip: Graco FF210?

What part do you paint first?

There are about 30' of railings. I'm thinking 3 days work. I don't have a reference point for price per linear foot. I wonder if the new paint cost estimator book has it?


----------



## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

Mr Smith said:


> What's your system for painting Interior balusters/Railings?
> 
> I've never sprayed any before and have always turned down those jobs.
> 
> ...



The big problem with BIN will be whether or not they want to be in the home over the next few days, because once you spray it, that smell is incredibly powerful and lingers. You might want to ask your paint rep if they have anything else they'd recommend. I personally have had great luck with PPG's sealgrip in those situations.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

This would be a good opportunity if you had an hvlp system. The spindles etc, tend to be smaller in size and if you've never really sprayed small objects out before the chances of runs is greater. 



Primer...depends what kind of wood it is. Bin isn't bad. Personally I'd go with a water based primer such as multipurpose or extreme bond. Dries fast and works on most all surfaces, especially the extreme bond. If you want something more sandable, then probably wall & wood from SW or a lacquer undercoat, just depends on a lot of factors. 



Paint wise, if you didn't want to mess with the kem aqua I'd suggest Pro Industrial WB Alkyd Urethane Enamel or Emerald Urethane Enamel (same thing). Has a pretty high pencil hardness rating, levels very nicely, and still has water clean-up and pretty decent drying times. 



If you do go airless on it, go with a 214 tip for paint, maybe a 212 or 210 for kem aqua. I'd be leery of a 210 fflp because of the restricted orifice size, it might end up clogging more on you with a 10, i'd prefer a 12-14 orifice size. 



That's my input on it. Good luck and post some before/afters.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Mr Smith said:


> What's your system for painting Interior balusters/Railings?
> 
> I've never sprayed any before and have always turned down those jobs.
> 
> ...


 I use the same formula on my railings as i do on my cabinets. Prime with INSLX Stix, then BM Advance Pearl Hybrid Enamel. I usually just use a wizz roller on them. goes really fast and way less taping up. Especially if your already finished painting the rest of the house.. 
You certainly could spray. See if you can find a FFLP 208 tip. Keep the over spray down. 
A coat of stays clear is not a bad idea on the rail portion only..But not necessary.
I came up with my own pricing formula through trial and error. just try to get a per spindle price and a lineal foot price on the rail..


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Am I the only one here who thinks BIN Does NOT leave a lingering odor, once its dry?


----------



## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I agree with you Woodco. After several hours the odor is gone. Ethyl alcohol evaporates with minutes and Shellac and titanium dioxide don't have much of a smell. While you are spraying though it sure does have a punch.


----------



## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

@Mr Smith BIN with Kem Aqua white SG would be a top of the line finish for stair rail and spindles. I would use an HVLP that I could control down to near airbrush flow. The spindles will be a vertical spray prone to runs. If they have much detail then it will be even more difficult to get it on even.

If I were doing it I would brush on 2 coats of SW ProIndustrial waterbourne Alkyd Urethane enamel without a primer. Dirtex them good with a maroon or green pad. You will have to scrubb to get accumulated dirt and oils off that hand rail. If the poly is worn through I would prime. If you are skeptical do a test. Remember PIWUAE takes up to 30 days to reach full hardness. It will take about a week to pass a scratch test. They will have to leave it alone for a while. I have used this on oil stained/oil polyed crown molding that was 30 + yr old. After full cure the hardness and adherence is excellent. The SG is not very shiny, it is almost satin. Emerald Trim would work to. It cures a little faster but is not quite as hard. I have used it without primer as well.


----------



## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Woodco said:


> Am I the only one here who thinks BIN Does NOT leave a lingering odor, once its dry?


Nope.


----------



## LynnDingler (Aug 31, 2018)

Have no experience of painting railings.


----------



## SwampCat (Aug 31, 2018)

i got nothin.i would brush it and just not enjoy that day at all.Polyurethane 2 coats.never fails.sand the rail with 220.I don't really like spraying this kinda stuff but a cup sprayer might blast a coat on there.fast drying shellac one coat!


----------

