# Caulking Tape Prior to Cut Ins



## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Any of you guys use this technique when masking to avoid bleed through?

I love this guys videos. I've learned a lot and thought this was a good idea.

He masks and prior to cutting in he takes some clear SW 950A and caulks the tape line. Paints while caulk is still wet and pulls the tape off before caulk is dry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=_uqGVFXwb_M

Can't get the video to embed. Sorry.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Not related to the video, because that is great on trim. The problem I have had with this technique on walls, is the clear does seal but whatever caulking seeps under the tape is shiney compared to the wall. I paint over orangepeel and knockdown walls not smooth though. I like using the opposing color first to seal the tape then the top color.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

I like the idea. I might try it if I run into this problem in the future, which I am sure I will.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

spencer said:


> Any of you guys use this technique when masking to avoid bleed through?
> 
> I love this guys videos. I've learned a lot and thought this was a good idea.
> 
> ...


I'm certainly willing to give his technique a try. I've watched quite a few of his videos and noticed that he loves the 3M 2020 masking tape. I've been a blue tape guy for stuff like this, but because of the cheaper price of the masking tape, I am wondering how many of you out there use masking instead of painter's tape. I worry about the masking sticking if not removed quickly. Also, I don't think any tape is 100 percent foolfproof...I'm using suggestions I've found on this site (using a five-way or putty knife to help ensure tape seals at the edges).


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Not related to the video, because that is great on trim. The problem I have had with this technique on walls, is the clear does seal but whatever caulking seeps under the tape is shiney compared to the wall. I paint over orangepeel and knockdown walls not smooth though. I like using the opposing color first to seal the tape then the top color.


It seems like if you were caulking up against say a white vinyl window or white trim it would make more sense you use white caulk vs clear??? You wouldn't get the "shininess."


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

spencer said:


> It seems like if you were caulking up against say a white vinyl window or white trim it would make more sense you use white caulk vs clear??? You wouldn't get the "shininess."


 Exactly,use white caulk for anything white.

Use Frog tape and 1st color if using two different colors that aren't white.

Frog tape works better if you wipe it with a damp rag first


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

I also saw a tip on finehomebuilding.com. The guy did the same thing except with some type of varnish. I think he may have even used an aerosol can to seal the tape edge.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

spencer said:


> I also saw a tip on finehomebuilding.com. The guy did the same thing except with some type of varnish. I think he may have even used an aerosol can to seal the tape edge.


You can seal the tape with a clear finish. I would keep if simple like peel bond applied thinly, or something else which dries fast and won't have problems with your topcoat.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

That guy has some really good vids on spraying too.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I the past I've used a product called _Tape Seal_ - an acrylic gel medium which you paint on the edge of the tape. Goes on white but dries clear in about 15 minutes and then you can paint. No sheen issues to deal with and did a great job of preventing any bleed through under the tape. It was especially handy on textured bullnose corners where a color change was needed.

I tried doing a search on it but nothing came up so don't know if they are still in business or not.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

spencer said:


> Any of you guys use this technique when masking to avoid bleed through?
> 
> I love this guys videos. I've learned a lot and thought this was a good idea.
> 
> ...


Today I painted two bedrooms. I decided to try this technique for cutting in above the baseboards and around the door and window trim. It worked very, very well. The trim was wood and not painted (stained). I had to hide some crooked cut-in lines/drips from the previous painter. The 950A clear went on really, really light compared to the 950A white, or Alex. It didn't cause any issues when painted over. I cut really fast, immediately removed the tape, and my lines were very sharp--no bleed-through anywhere. I do wonder about this process for walls. Will the caulk shine through the cut-in on smooth drywall? I'll have to find out.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

SemiproJohn said:


> Today I painted two bedrooms. I decided to try this technique for cutting in above the baseboards and around the door and window trim. It worked very, very well. The trim was wood and not painted (stained). I had to hide some crooked cut-in lines/drips from the previous painter. The 950A clear went on really, really light compared to the 950A white, or Alex. It didn't cause any issues when painted over. I cut really fast, immediately removed the tape, and my lines were very sharp--no bleed-through anywhere. I do wonder about this process for walls. Will the caulk shine through the cut-in on smooth drywall? I'll have to find out.


I've done this but if you put the bead on real light, you can pull the tape after its dry. Use a good tape. When I bead up for heavy fills, I will pull before dry.


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## SeattleHomeServices (Sep 20, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> I'm certainly willing to give his technique a try. I've watched quite a few of his videos and noticed that he loves the 3M 2020 masking tape. I've been a blue tape guy for stuff like this, but because of the cheaper price of the masking tape, I am wondering how many of you out there use masking instead of painter's tape. I worry about the masking sticking if not removed quickly. Also, I don't think any tape is 100 percent foolfproof...I'm using suggestions I've found on this site (using a five-way or putty knife to help ensure tape seals at the edges).


I use plain masking tape almost exclusively on interiors and around bare/stained/oiled wood on exteriors. As long as you pull within 48 hrs you're fine. 

I rarely use the caulking trick unless its against an impaired surface. For trim, accent walls, etc i seal the tape edge with base color and once dry paint with trim color. 

Frog tape is too damn expensive and I've had poor results with it nearly every time I've used it.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Good information. Thanks everyone.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

caulk base (for the purpose of having a smooth surface to tape to)

Paint base

tape base (use your fingers to press the tape in well. Follow with blunt putty knife.) I place the tape against the wall regardless of how straight it is.

Paint walls allowing as little paint as possible to touch the tape. I don't mean to exaggerate...just don't lay a thick line. The tape will work well as long as you don't gob the paint on.

Remove tape at a 45 degree angle from the wall.

While a lot use tape to protect the moldings from splatter...this kills two birds with one stone. 

Good luck

Oh yeah, use good tape. I use 3M Scotch (blue)


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Just as an update. I had 5 exterior doors that all had glass in them that needed painted. Masked/papered the glass on all doors beforehand. Then on each door before I would spray I caulked a tight line and worked it in with my finger along the tape joint. Spayed the door flat and removed the tape/paper immediately. I got really good lines doing this. Worked very well.


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## Paintdian (Apr 17, 2013)

How about controlling stain bleeding through tape particularly on frosted glass? I always experience some level of bleed when staining up to tapped glass no matter what tape it is or how care full I press the edge of the tape down with a knife. I know its easy enough to clean off with some solvent, but, we had major problems with alerting the frosted glass when cleaning the bleeding off and have been trying to think of how I am going to mask frosted glass next time when staining so there is no chance for creating damage.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Paintdian said:


> How about controlling stain bleeding through tape particularly on frosted glass? I always experience some level of bleed when staining up to tapped glass no matter what tape it is or how care full I press the edge of the tape down with a knife. I know its easy enough to clean off with some solvent, but, we had major problems with alerting the frosted glass when cleaning the bleeding off and have been trying to think of how I am going to mask frosted glass next time when staining so there is no chance for creating damage.


I've never used it, but I am really interested in trying the Liquid Mask that others on this site have suggested. Supposedly, you can spray/brush/roll it directly onto glass. You can paint muntins on french doors without being neat...just paint onto the treated glass. When dry, take a box cutter and lightly score around muntins, peel off the liquid mask and presto, perfect paint job with no paint on glass. I think it's around $80 per gallon, but if it really works, it would be well worth it.


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## dg1267 (Dec 6, 2012)

I enjoy watching Chris' videos. He's got a pretty good solution for about everything. I don't use 3M Blue tape anymore. It's too expensive! I've went to the cheaper white tape and I just pull as I go. I keep a small 5x5 tarp in the center of the room and as I pull tape off I put it on the small tarp. Then when it dries, I ball it up and toss it. 

I've never used the tape/caulk trick, but I have been thinking of using it on my current job. I like cutting it in myself, but this house is 4300 s/f and I'll get wore out trying to cut all that in.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

dg1267 said:


> I enjoy watching Chris' videos. He's got a pretty good solution for about everything. I don't use 3M Blue tape anymore. It's too expensive! I've went to the cheaper white tape and I just pull as I go. I keep a small 5x5 tarp in the center of the room and as I pull tape off I put it on the small tarp. Then when it dries, I ball it up and toss it.
> 
> I've never used the tape/caulk trick, but I have been thinking of using it on my current job. I like cutting it in myself, but this house is 4300 s/f and I'll get wore out trying to cut all that in.


I'm in the process of doing some base right now. I did it a little different that Kris. He tries to pull the tape off before the caulk dries. It just doesn't work for me to move that efficiently so I leave the caulk dry and score the line with a sharp utility knife. No bleed through and it works pretty well, though I think it would work better the way Kris does it. Its more ideal if you're just doing one coat IMO.


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## dg1267 (Dec 6, 2012)

If we spray an interior we put it on heavy and backroll. Usually no need for a second coat and very little touch up. But we only spray interiors if there isn't anyone living in the home at the time.


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