# Redwood siding



## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

I was told it is difficult for paint to adhere to redwood siding as it contains tannum (sp??) Is there a preferred primer for redwood siding. What's your take on making paint stick to redwood siding??

Sal


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

stain.


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## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

Wise painter could you give me a little more info? Are you telling me to prime the siding with stain? If so then what type of stain will serve as a primer for exterior latex (Sherwin Williams Duration) paint?

Thanks

Sal


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Sorry I was short on the answer, I wouldn't paint redwood siding due to maintenance issues.
I would only use a solid color or transparent stain.


That is not in anyway a troll to those who_* love*_ painted redwood, it is only my 2 cents.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

what kind of Redwood siding is it? smooth? rough? what kind of home? some homes don't look right with transparent stain on them...


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## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I guess they never should of used redwood for the siding in the first place.

Sal


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## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

MAK DECO,

The redwood siding is smooth. It is on several outbuildings that are on a large estate. The siding has been painted and the paint throughout the years is not holding up.

Sal


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## brushmstr (Feb 15, 2009)

salmangeri said:


> MAK DECO,
> 
> The redwood siding is smooth. It is on several outbuildings that are on a large estate. The siding has been painted and the paint throughout the years is not holding up.
> 
> Sal


Its Tannic acid. Several top brands including B.M. sell an oil base primer meant to prevent bleed. Don't use a latex. Also, if they are smooth side out, I would sand them before priming. Good luck.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

salmangeri said:


> MAK DECO,
> 
> The redwood siding is smooth. It is on several outbuildings that are on a large estate. The siding has been painted and the paint throughout the years is not holding up.
> 
> Sal


well then yes oil prime IMO a slow dry works best on Tannin... then paint with a good exterior paint.

Once it is painted its hard to go back...


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Tannin bleed should not lead to coating failure, just discoloration. If the siding is rough side in, I have been told that, at least with cedar, that the rough side will act like a sponge and absorb any moisture under the siding (and coming through the house) and cause the coating to fail on the exterior side.


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## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks for your replies.

I will take your advice.

Sal


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> well then yes oil prime IMO a slow dry works best on Tannin... then paint with a good exterior paint.
> 
> Once it is painted its hard to go back...


I agree with Mak.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

DeanV said:


> Tannin bleed should not lead to coating failure, just discoloration. If the siding is rough side in, I have been told that, at least with cedar, that the rough side will act like a sponge and absorb any moisture under the siding (and coming through the house) and cause the coating to fail on the exterior side.


Absolutely Dean. The type of vapor barrier under the siding and even in the house between the drywall and insulation also plays an important role. It is not really a paint problem , it is a moisture problem.

Wow just realized this is from 2009! Hope he's figured it out by now....


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## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Hey Cliff, sometimes you just have to wonder if you really are just talking to yourself lol.
This points to the necessity of back priming siding prior to install.


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## charleymcdowell (Mar 27, 2010)

1.Sand the piss out of it. any wood that is exposed has to be sanded to a new surface. paint adheres best to a fresh redwood surface. 

2.Then I would use PPG Seal Grip oil Primer for the tannin and failing paint issue.

3. then I would use Seal grip water based primer from PPG.

4. Then assuming the wood has had 50+ years to dry caulk the crap out of it with either sikaflex or lexel. Clear is best because they have more binding agents in it because there is no pigment taking up space in the vehicle. 

5. Then I would brush two coats of PPG Timeless semi gloss.

I did a bunch of research on redwood siding some time ago. I found this website they had some good suggestions on painting redwood. 

http://www.calredwood.org/


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

jsheridan said:


> Hey Cliff, sometimes you just have to wonder if you really are just talking to yourself lol.
> This points to the necessity of back priming siding prior to install.


Totally agree. A good solid back priming with an alkyd primer sealer will help establish that vapor barrier on the reverse side of the siding. I also love to recommend that the rough side go out. It gives the stain something to really bite into rather than the slick surface. If smooth does go out(which it usually does)getting rid of the mill glaze prior to staining is also important. Years ago they used more tar/felt paper under the siding. Now they use a breathable barrier that allows the moisture in the house to escape which is great for the house, but bad for the paint on the siding. All this being said, I seldom if ever see any back priming of siding or rough side out. I do see a lot of paint/stain failure on cedar & redwood siding. Like you said-seems like I am talking to myself sometimes.


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## sarad (Aug 2, 2011)

*siding flip*

We've had some success in painting smooth redwood siding on a 50-year-old home. Stripping down to bare wood, oil primer (not thinned) at not too hot or humid temperatures, followed by two coats of Duration acrylic, gives the best result so far. It does seem hopeless however on the south side of the house. The care required in painting smooth redwood siding is seriously unfun. The wood, however, is truly lovely. Idea: Is it possible to pull off the siding, flip it over to the rough side and stain it? Is it brittle stuff, likely to break in the process?


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