# Caulk vs Spackle



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I am soooo tired of sanding spackle, I decided to do a time study. Caulk vs spackle for nail holes.

For me, caulk is winning. What say you? 

We're talking apartments. I am determined to get prepped in less than an hour.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Finger Putty with Crawfords in the orange can. Been painting over it quickly while still wet for years. I would do a few test spots first though, if you are using cheap paint it my change color slightly once it dries. 

If that doesn't work, quick-dry caulking.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Spackle for wall holes. Caulk for small cracks an gaps where expansion and contraction may be an issue. Elmers WoodPutty for nail holes in trim that will be painted.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

I should also clarify, every house I do is knockdown, orange peel, or skip trowel. 

No smooth walls in California.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

RH said:


> Spackle for wall holes. Caulk for small cracks an gaps where expansion and contraction may be an issue. Elmers WoodPutty for nail holes in trim that will be painted.


Time and time again, you're a voice of reason in this PT jungle.

Thank you.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Easier and faster to use correct methods and materials like spackle. It should be extremely easy to sand or wipe excess around hole with damp rag, or just wipe whole thing with damp rag. SW spackle sands so easy, like Crawfords. Crackshot does not sand as easy.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

RH said:


> Spackle for wall holes. Caulk for small cracks an gaps where expansion and contraction may be an issue. Elmers WoodPutty for nail holes in trim that will be painted.



Yes. A lot of guys will mix the Elmer's wood filler 1/2&1/2 with lightweight spackle to make it easier to sand. If there's a bunch of holes, mix the two products on a piece of cardboard, then put the mix in a piece of painters plastic, twist it up into a ball and poke a little hole in it to squeeze and dispense the spackle from. Keeps it fresher longer. 

The nice thing about the Elmer's is it has an orange / wood color so it's easier to find over white primed trim.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Yes. A lot of guys will mix the Elmer's wood filler 1/2&1/2 with lightweight spackle to make it easier to sand. If there's a bunch of holes, mix the two products on a piece of cardboard, then put the mix in a piece of painters plastic, twist it up into a ball and poke a little hole in it to squeeze and dispense the spackle from. Keeps it fresher longer.
> 
> The nice thing about the Elmer's is it has an orange / wood color so it's easier to find over white primed trim.


I've never mixed the two. May need to give that a try.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

My pet peeve is having to sand at all.

Apply spackle, come bact to sand, clean dust off trim. 3 steps. Even if you finger it on.

Whereas with painters caulk it's: Finger it on. wipe smooth. no cleanup.

In theory, one less step. Both are coverable in same amount if time. I have tried the caulk, & so far on two jobs its saving an average of ten minutes.

Just curious if others have tried & notice this.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

If I absolutely had to do a no sand deal on nail holes, I would use thickened up window glazing. I know some will apply lightweight sparkle and just wipe it clean at application. I would chose either of those before caulk if it was for a job like apartments where quality is the last concern.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

driftweed said:


> My pet peeve is having to sand at all.
> 
> Apply spackle, come bact to sand, clean dust off trim. 3 steps. Even if you finger it on.
> 
> ...



I have done it a lot in apt re paint type situations when the goal is just to fill the hole. Works especially well when there is a hundred pin holes in a small area. Just squirt some caulk on the area and knife it down. 

I've also used glazing compound like dean mentioned for slightly larger holes. The only problem with that is, if the finish paint is flat it can bleed an oily spot. One trick to remedy that is to knife a layer of caulk on top of the glazing (or putty). 

It can definitely save time in those cheapie type of jobs.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

No way I would use caulk for filling nail holes, It shrinks leaving a divot that look's like ****e... Like said above its for gaps, cracks that move. Suck it up sanding is part of the job..

It's like not pole sanding the wall's before you paint sure some may never notice but it is cutting corners.. You are paid to be a professional!


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Glazing, wipe smooth paint right away.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Delta Painting said:


> No way I would use caulk for filling nail holes........but it is cutting corners.. You are paid to be a professional!








































In an ideal world where we all get to paint middle-high end homes, sure. 

The type of jobs DW is talking about are all about 'cutting corners' (finding efficiencies) and on those jobs, that's exactly what you are paid to do. 
A lot of guys feel like apt turnover painting and those type jobs are beneath them. And that's fine, great actually. I wish I never had to do it either. But there is a demand for that type of work, and it can be profitable just like anything else. Driftweed seems to be doing pretty good with it.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

TJ Paint said:


> Time and time again, you're a voice of reason in this PT jungle.
> 
> Thank you.


I concur.



RH said:


> I've never mixed the two. May need to give that a try.


Yeah mixing fillers is great. Not so much for walls but trim packs.. I mix 70% sp and 30% elmers for hand sanding. 
As for apartments I still use spackle. Texture where needed as well. If I hit larger holes or gouges I don't need to switch. Just wet wipe spackle as applying or after dried, no dust.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Look, I would be ecstatic to sand and be thorough on prep...IF I was being paid for it. I do perform drywall repairs as needed for extra $$. 

In the apartment world it is all about efficiences. So when your repainting a unit for $500 time is your enemy. Especially when your hourly billable rate is $100/hr. Thats $10 every 6 minutes. 

I don't get supplied stuff like spackle/plastic/tape/rollers/brushes/etc. 

Also, there are 3 other contractors waiting on me to get done. Time is critical. So I always ponder ways to get faster. No minor detail is sacred.

Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose. 

I like the glazing idea though. And will try that. The caulk is definitely faster than spackle btw...


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

driftweed said:


> Look, I would be ecstatic to sand and be thorough on prep...IF I was being paid for it. I do perform drywall repairs as needed for extra $$.
> 
> In the apartment world it is all about efficiences. So when your repainting a unit for $500 time is your enemy. Especially when your hourly billable rate is $100/hr. Thats $10 every 6 minutes.
> 
> ...


Hey it's cool. I thought you were just checking people's input so that was mine. Plus we're talking to anyone else that cares.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

oh yeah, anytime i venture into unknown waters i like to hear from other who came before me. Makes the learning curve that much smaller.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> Time and time again, you're a voice of reason in this PT jungle.
> 
> Thank you.


That's why he's the Research Hound! His bark is louder than his bite!:whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

driftweed said:


> oh yeah, anytime i venture into unknown waters i like to hear from other who came before me. Makes the learning curve that much smaller.


venture or drift?:blink:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Delta Painting said:


> No way I would use caulk for filling nail holes, It shrinks leaving a divot that look's like ****e... Like said above its for gaps, cracks that move. Suck it up sanding is part of the job..
> 
> It's like not pole sanding the wall's before you paint sure some may never notice but it is cutting corners.. You are paid to be a professional!


A pole-fessional.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Delta Painting said:


> No way I would use caulk for filling nail holes, It shrinks zleaving a divot that look's like ****e... Like said above its for gaps, cracks that move. Suck it up sanding is part of the job..
> 
> It's like not pole sanding the wall's before you paint sure some may never notice but it is cutting corners.. You are paid to be a professional!


Totally agree!:thumbsup:


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

Why not use 5min patch.... How hard would that be?:blink:


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

It's fine trying to cut time on a job I get that, What I don't get is using caulk to fill nail holes in apartment repaint, turns what ever the job may be all I'm sayin is do it right. I mean come on how much time can it take to reach into your pocket grab some sand paper \ sponge and do a couple passes?


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> I have done it a lot in apt re paint type situations when the goal is just to fill the hole. Works especially well when there is a hundred pin holes in a small area. Just squirt some caulk on the area and knife it down. I've also used glazing compound like dean mentioned for slightly larger holes. The only problem with that is, if the finish paint is flat it can bleed an oily spot. One trick to remedy that is to knife a layer of caulk on top of the glazing (or putty). It can definitely save time in those cheapie type of jobs.


go with it, driftweed. Caulk is ur best bet for sure.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

RH said:


> Spackle for wall holes. Caulk for small cracks an gaps where expansion and contraction may be an issue. Elmers WoodPutty for nail holes in trim that will be painted.


Did you noticed a change in elmers woodpitty?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Caulk is acceptable in apartment repaints especially on textured walls as long as we're talking picture frame nail holes not 16 penny framing nails or molly bolts. It's pretty standard.


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## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

driftweed said:


> I am soooo tired of sanding spackle, I decided to do a time study. Caulk vs spackle for nail holes.
> 
> For me, caulk is winning. What say you?
> 
> We're talking apartments. I am determined to get prepped in less than an hour.


Spackling light is quick and doesn't require much sanding. I will use caulking on shoe molding sometimes, I fill the holes with the excess from caulking the gap.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

If its an apt, who cares?

Ive done apts in my time. I just used lightweight spacle for normal holes. Dry fast, knife it easy for when you have a lot.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

I have to agree with the last 2 posts...spackle light, put it on, and rub it off with the heel of your hand. No shrink, great stuff. I remember when this stuff came out in the early or mid 80's...what a time saver. If your doing the entire unit then fill the holes first, do you cuts etc. By the time the prelim work is done you're ready for your finish coat. Knockdown cuts? What a pain. Don't miss that SoFla stuff at all, and then there are the rounded corners !!


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

I don't know too much about it but I say caulk is for gaps (trim to wall, jamb etc) and spackle (fillers) are for holes. Am I right?


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

vermontpainter said:


> I don't know too much about it but I say caulk is for gaps (trim to wall, jamb etc) and spackle (fillers) are for holes. Am I right?


That's exactly how I spec it on my estimates.
There's a reason that there's 2 different products.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Monstertruck said:


> That's exactly how I spec it on my estimates.
> There's a reason that there's 2 different products.


Maybe its a New England thang?


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

vermontpainter said:


> Maybe its a New England thang?


That's one of the attractions of this forum for me.
Guys in other places/situations do things quite differently for good reason.
Can you imagine an entire state (like California) with no smooth walls?
What do the plasterers do all day?:blink:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Monstertruck said:


> That's one of the attractions of this forum for me.
> Guys in other places/situations do things quite differently for good reason.
> Can you imagine an entire state (like California) with no smooth walls?
> What do the plasterers do all day?:blink:


Stay plastered!:whistling


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## skinne9 (Nov 21, 2009)

20 minute set, and just wipe with wet rag, it's still 2 steps but for textured wall is the best way


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Guys in other places/situations do things quite differently for good reason.
Can you imagine an entire state (like California) with no smooth walls?
What do the plasterers do all day?:blink:[/QUOTE]

Word. I hate textured walls and if I bought a house that had them, that would be changed very quickly. Ugh, makes me cringe. I just can't get that cheesey 70's budget look out of my head.... buuuuut, they are so frickin easy to paint. Wow. Still, no.


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## skinne9 (Nov 21, 2009)

kdpaint said:


> Guys in other places/situations do things quite differently for good reason.
> Can you imagine an entire state (like California) with no smooth walls?
> What do the plasterers do all day?:blink:


Word. I hate textured walls and if I bought a house that had them, that would be changed very quickly. Ugh, makes me cringe. I just can't get that cheesey 70's budget look out of my head.... buuuuut, they are so frickin easy to paint. Wow. Still, no.[/QUOTE]

Haha , here in st.Louis metro n/c houses now that are 500k and up put knock down on the ceilings and smooth walls don't get it.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> Maybe its a New England thang?


Yes... you guys are the pillars of painting civilization. Im just glad we get telegraph transmissions from you guys from time to time!


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> Yes... you guys are the pillars of painting civilization. Im just glad we get telegraph transmissions from you guys from time to time!


Aw..Their, there, they're...

It's just different here. I haven't found many areas of the country that will have buildings framed twelve on center with 2x4's that measure two inches by four inches, or lathe and 3 coat plaster with a wooden bullnose. It's pretty neat to see the way things were done some time ago. Ramsden posted pictures of an exterior restoration a while back where the 'cornerboards' were these gnarly spindle type beams that reminded me of a thick rope. Definitely a challenge to prep and paint, and there is no denying the cool factor.

In Boston proper, you can walk down the street and make eye contact with a passerby for a solid 8 seconds without a greeting, and it's perfectly acceptable. That part is not so cool; although, I think I'd be a little weirded out if I was expected to make small talk with every stranger. But hey, in some places people do that, and that's a-ok. 

If you're a fan of old things or craftsmanship in any capacity, New England certainly possesses some of that and a little pride isn't a bad thing. I was happy to learn to apply knockdown and orange peel texture because it was different and change is good. I hated the Texas heat and the winters in Montana were too much for me, but I learned what I could in the time I was there and moved on. Kind of like reading online forums.

Personally, I have great respect for the Euro tradies. They seem to deal with a wider variety in terms of repair work and compliance issues. Aussies too, from what I've gathered reading here. The necessary schooling, regulations etc. would have one thinking that painting is like...a respected trade or something. 

Now can someone please telegraph this to the members west of the Mississippi and those south of the Mason Dixon? Thanks in advance.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Gibberish45 said:


> Caulk is acceptable in apartment repaints especially on textured walls as long as we're talking picture frame nail holes not 16 penny framing nails or molly bolts. It's pretty standard.


I finger putty small nail holes with crawfords and if it is too big for crawfords I will usually fill anything up to the size of a Nickel with quick-dry caulking. Over fill it and knife it off. No sanding, no flashing, never shrinks. 

If I was doing smooth wall I would have to handle it differently (I'm just guessing on that), but I'm not.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

West of the Missouri River even! 

We got grizzlies and Mountain lions and elk. 

Knockdown texture is a thing here. 
Crazy world. 

Yes they do things differently in Rome. I've seen it up close.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> Yes... you guys are the pillars of painting civilization. Im just glad we get telegraph transmissions from you guys from time to time!


You were badass back when you were a painter, TJ. Hall of Fame first rounder for sure!

:jester:


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

Csheils said:


> Aw..Their, there, they're...
> 
> It's just different here. I haven't found many areas of the country that will have buildings framed twelve on center with 2x4's that measure two inches by four inches, or lathe and 3 coat plaster with a wooden bullnose. It's pretty neat to see the way things were done some time ago. Ramsden posted pictures of an exterior restoration a while back where the 'cornerboards' were these gnarly spindle type beams that reminded me of a thick rope. Definitely a challenge to prep and paint, and there is no denying the cool factor.
> 
> ...


Heaven forbid a person take pride in their craft or demand the same respect as any other trade.:whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Caulk is what holds the painters world together!


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Excellent post Csheils. 

This gives me the opportunity to mention my new favorite TV series Downton Abbey. In the series, everyone has a respectable position, from the Earl and his butler, to the Lady and her maids. The house is run with the expectation that everyone is competent in their craft, and everyone knows their place.

There is also the expectation that everyone follow social etiquette and certain standards put in place to ensure one is receiving proper service. Anything less is considered rogue and illegitimate. For example, you will never find the Abbey painter using caulk to fill holes.

The idea of making things up as we go is perhaps a consequence of the pioneering and entrepreneurial spirit of America, as opposed to the standards and measurable qualifications that are expected of craftsmen from refined European countries like England.


Addendum: The actual castle in the series is known as Highclere


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

South-FL-Painter said:


> Did you noticed a change in elmers woodpitty?


No, can't say I have. What do you think has changed about it?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> You were badass back when you were a painter, TJ. Hall of Fame first rounder for sure!
> 
> :jester:


Just glad I got it out of my system before my Son came along.


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## Jasonthep8nter (Aug 7, 2013)

driftweed said:


> I am soooo tired of sanding spackle, I decided to do a time study. Caulk vs spackle for nail holes. For me, caulk is winning. What say you? We're talking apartments. I am determined to get prepped in less than an hour.


 the only problem I have encountered with caulking nail holes is that the caulking shrinks an looks horrible after painting you can literally see every nail hole, thumbs up with the Crawfords that's all I use you can paint over it even before it dries all the way an have no problems IMO


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Beware of crawfords putty and the new SW Water Reducible Alkyd primer. I filled holes with this, primed with that, shot Solo enamel next. The casing was real tight to the wall, so I taped them with 3M delicate so I could jam a brush in the corner and not get paint on the casing. When I peeled the tape, all the spots where I filled holes came off down to the putty. Plenty of dry time between coats, tape was nothing too sticky. Had to sand and recoat. Poor adhesion between the putty and primer. I only used that primer because some of the doors were oil enamel and had to be coated.


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## Jasonthep8nter (Aug 7, 2013)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Beware of crawfords putty and the new SW Water Reducible Alkyd primer. I filled holes with this, primed with that, shot Solo enamel next. The casing was real tight to the wall, so I taped them with 3M delicate so I could jam a brush in the corner and not get paint on the casing. When I peeled the tape, all the spots where I filled holes came off down to the putty. Plenty of dry time between coats, tape was nothing too sticky. Had to sand and recoat. Poor adhesion between the putty and primer. I only used that primer because some of the doors were oil enamel and had to be coated.


thanks for the heads up mike I don't normally use sw but if I ever do I'll know to use caution with that an the Crawfords


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Ok got one for ya:

Last week did a whiteout with an assload of 16 penny nailholes. Might as well use the whole effin box...

So I went back to spackle (red lid). Fingered it on, came back an hour later (almost no sanding) & sprayed/backrolled.

The spackle CAME OUT of the hole onto the roller. So sick of that. Back to caulking....

Why didn't it stay?


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Was that the lightweight? How deep were the holes? I'm a fan of the vinyl spackles like Crackshot. They stick better. Ready Patch too.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I gave up on lightweight a long time ago. But this has been my norm spackling:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/DAP-DryDex-1-Pint-Spackling-with-Dry-Time-Indicator-7079812348/100634326/


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

It got great reviews on the HD site! ;-)


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Dont get me wrong, in non time sensitive work it does its job well. I just need something that is quicker. Thats why i turned to the caulk. 

I'm gonna buy crawfords and try that.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Crawfords doesn't dry super quick. It's ok for small stuff. You can't build it deeper than 1/8" or so, or it takes a long time to dry. It also sands too easy. You can sand it with the end of your finger. But some people like it. I bought a bunch of it at a SW pro show, and a year later the tubs I hadn't opened yet had mildew / mold growing inside of it. When I called the company they told me basically I was full of shi* and that that couldn't possibly of happened. 

I use easy sand 5 minute mud when I need things to setup quickly. Dries fast and is cheap too.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Crawfords doesn't dry super quick. It's ok for small stuff. You can't build it deeper than 1/8" or so, or it takes a long time to dry. It also sands too easy. You can sand it with the end of your finger. But some people like it. I bought a bunch of it at a SW pro show, and a year later the tubs I hadn't opened yet had mildew / mold growing inside of it. When I called the company they told me basically I was full of shi* and that that couldn't possibly of happened.
> 
> I use easy sand 5 minute mud when I need things to setup quickly. Dries fast and is cheap too.


I have had problems with the easy sand flashing even on very small repairs it just takes the paint different.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Did you spot prime ?


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## vegaspainter (Aug 24, 2012)

I likes Crawfords but the inside of can always seems to get rusty.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Did you spot prime ?


Yes I did the diff was very subtle most would probably not notice it unless you knew where it was. It was like just a little different texture.


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## viking (Dec 27, 2013)

driftweed said:


> Ok got one for ya:
> 
> Last week did a whiteout with an assload of 16 penny nailholes. Might as well use the whole effin box...
> 
> ...


knock the holes with the butt end of your knife to make a shallow crater around the holes. This will prevent your mud from falling out of the wall.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I'll try tgat. That last job was a first for me. Never had spackle come back out. weird.

I got an order for 5 more units this month, just dont know when.


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

Have used joint compound recently and had great results, sands flush with the trim and looks great.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I used to get mudd happy, but clients told me i over-prep (saying it takes to long)... weird huh









so i gave up and started just doing nailholes with spackle. Then i got greedy and tried the caulk.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

driftweed said:


> I used to get mudd happy, but clients told me i over-prep (saying it takes to long)... weird huh
> 
> View attachment 21276
> 
> ...


Looks like mud was applied with the broom!


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## deadend (Aug 1, 2013)

*...Amen...*



Csheils said:


> Aw..Their, there, they're...
> 
> It's just different here. I haven't found many areas of the country that will have buildings framed twelve on center with 2x4's that measure two inches by four inches, or lathe and 3 coat plaster with a wooden bullnose. It's pretty neat to see the way things were done some time ago. Ramsden posted pictures of an exterior restoration a while back where the 'cornerboards' were these gnarly spindle type beams that reminded me of a thick rope. Definitely a challenge to prep and paint, and there is no denying the cool factor.
> 
> ...


...this was a much welcomed find for me in a PaintTalk search...south of N.O. here...just posted intro...


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Never had problem with regular compound just the hot mud.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

If you just dimple nail holes slightly with the knife butt and fill with SW lightweight shrink free spackle you don't have to sand.


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## midwest painter88 (Feb 2, 2014)

Caulking nail holes is a painters sin! Sw light weight or I use something similar to a window glaze forget the name at the moment


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## deadend (Aug 1, 2013)

...caulk if you just want them "filled" or 2 layers caulk or spackle for them to "disappear"...wet wipe...don't sand for the best of both worlds...


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I never found Spackle to need much sanding if applied with a good blade. I run my hand over a Spackle fill before painting to be sure. In must cases I use joint compound AND still find it dries quickly and requires minimal sanding. I'd NEVER do caulking for nail holes. Cracks I scrape a little wider and use Durabond and top with joint compound. I've never had a crack fill fail.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Uhhhhh....the op is probably done figuring it out by now.....its been a few years.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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