# Need advice for custom stain match(sort of)



## Wareaglerebel (Jun 26, 2017)

I recently woodgrained a door at a lake house. This job came from a customer who saw a set of garage doors I had done earlier in the year. As it was fiberglass french doors with woodgrain etched in it I used a gel stain. I used 2 different colors to match the hobby lobby boat oar the HO wanted to match. I used aged oak with red elm over it. It matched perfectly. But when it came time to do the frame, which was just a few pieces of what I have always called brick molding. Vinyl brick molding. The molding wouldnt hold the gel stain like i wanted it to, i dont know how grl stain normally works on a flat surface or if it was heat or weather but it wasnt flowing properly and it wasnt giving me the results I wanted. So I tried to use my water based glazing materials I use on garage doors. I thought I could get it to match but was wrong. You can see in the pic I ended up way to orange and now I need help getting it closer to the color I need. Anyone have any advice?


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PAC will be along to help - I understand he loves doing stain matches.


----------



## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Did you stain over factory primer? I use Gripper over the factory primer, tinted to a color similar to the door skin. At this point I would try a dark gel stain over what is there, or maybe the Gripper over it first.


----------



## Wareaglerebel (Jun 26, 2017)

I have the door where i want it. The vinyl molding is where my problem is. I used a water based glaze on it made from SW solo and floetrol.


----------



## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

If it won't take stain could you paint the trim a dark color?


----------



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Use paint and ditch the stain. Call it "stainting" scuff your glaze, use a paint color that closely matches the door color, you already have a base color, youre just adding depth and color. Paint it on and let it tack, wipe it or brush it off with a dry brush or maybe a brush with just a touch of water at the tips to help it glide....id play with it a little, maybe buff out hard brush lines...then you can clear coat it if you need the sheen to match maybe...lookin good so far, thanks for the pic!
Ps fauxlynn is our super swanky awesome resident faux lady, if she chimes in she'll know of a few tricks to get it perfect!

I've used the method I described on a few different things over the years with success, but I'm far from a faux pro.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Wareaglerebel (Jun 26, 2017)

Thanks. Maybe this fauxlynn can give me advice on brushing on water based clearcoat too. I dont believe spraying the clear on this trim would be ideal. But when I brush it I always get bubbles. Yes I knkw the mainstays like dont shake and all the other bubble lessening tricks. But I still get them. You pretty much summed up my only viable option I believe. Just try to add a darker color.


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

RH said:


> CAP will be along to help - I understand he loves doing stain matches.


I don't know....i hear that CAP guy is a real a-hole.


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Wareaglerebel said:


> Thanks. Maybe this fauxlynn can give me advice on brushing on water based clearcoat too. I dont believe spraying the clear on this trim would be ideal. But when I brush it I always get bubbles. Yes I knkw the mainstays like dont shake and all the other bubble lessening tricks. But I still get them. You pretty much summed up my only viable option I believe. Just try to add a darker color.


Cheap low resin percentage water based poly. It's the poly not you, at least if you are using a decent brush.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PACman said:


> I don't know....i hear that CAP guy is a real a-hole.


Yeah, he is. PAC on the other hand...

Damned auto correct!:vs_mad:


----------



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

I know nothing about gel stain,sorry.

In the past I've had trouble with water based glazes beading up on a slick base coat. I just scuffed the sheen off a bit. I. Not sure if that's what's happening here.

If it were me, I would throw a mid tone layer of paint on that and then glaze.

I hope that helps... If you want to call me, I could pm you my number


----------



## Wareaglerebel (Jun 26, 2017)

I got some black colorant. Just going to try and darken what I used to see if I can get close to the gel stain. I have always heard mixxed reviews on gel stain but on this fiberglass door with grain already embossed on it it worked great.


----------



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Wareaglerebel said:


> Thanks. Maybe this fauxlynn can give me advice on brushing on water based clearcoat too. I dont believe spraying the clear on this trim would be ideal. But when I brush it I always get bubbles. Yes I knkw the mainstays like dont shake and all the other bubble lessening tricks. But I still get them. You pretty much summed up my only viable option I believe. Just try to add a darker color.


I'm wondering what would happen if you were to use peel stop as a clear? Unorthodox and I have NO idea how it'd look or hold up, but it does dry clear and is rated for exterior use...? I know, I know, it's designed to be top coated (that would be my point of hesitation) but I do wonder....
Lynn, got any exterior waterborne paint compatible clears in your bag o tricks?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Gel stain out of the question on a flat surface like that...Either match up with a paint or Solid acrylic stain. Other option would be to remove trim and replace with oak. Then you could stain it properly,. I hate those fiberglass doors. What's the deal with those?😬


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Maybe try the stainable primer.... 




I dont understand about your bubbles. I've never had a problem with that. What product are you using?


----------



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

So, how'd it turn out?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

There's no issue with fiberglass/vinyl and gel stain. The problem is people don't put a base coat of paint down on it first. Give it a quick scuff sand and lay it out. Make sure the paint is dried out enough though, overnight preferable. 

I already mentioned the wiping stains, but if your not use to working fast and drawing fast lines with a chip brush, then it'll mess you up. 

If you can take a sample of the stain to the Sherwin store or whoever and a pre-prepped vinyl piece they should be able to get a relatively close stain mixed up. 

If you have a sprayer, it's the best thing out there. HVLPs work wonders on these jobs, it's how we can handle harder projects with ease and out perform other painters. Something to look into.


----------

