# Paint Shaver Pro



## Beinion (Jan 20, 2014)

I am thinking about getting a paint shaver and have seen a lot about needing to sand afterwards, but never really seen a full rationale. Is it just for looks or is there another reason? 
Is it possible to use the paint shaver and not sand?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Why not sand after? I mean if you don't care how it looks, why shave in the first place?

Sanding would help adhesion though.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Doesn't the website explain the reasoning? The shaver leaves the wood with a rough look, the sanders are necessary to smooth everything out.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Doesn't the website explain the reasoning? The shaver leaves the wood with a rough look, the sanders are necessary to smooth everything out.


Exactly. You need to power sand after as the paint shaver will leave the wood looking rough. Especially if you have never used it you will end up gouging the wood. They say you can shave 1 layer of paint off at a time, That's after you have gotten used to it. Even then it will still need some sort of sanding.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

it takes all all the paint off in one pass, but as others have said it has a rough finish which needs a sand afterwards.


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## Beinion (Jan 20, 2014)

Ok, thanks guys. That's good to know for when I get started. I'm excited to see how well the shaver will actually work in practice.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Beinion said:


> I am thinking about getting a paint shaver and have seen a lot about needing to sand afterwards, but never really seen a full rationale. Is it just for looks or is there another reason?
> Is it possible to use the paint shaver and not sand?


Because the Paint Shaver (I typed PS but felt the tool needed more than a PS rating lol) is a rougher grade strip it is best come back with a finer grit to give a nicer finish.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

make sure you have a vacuum attachment. You don't need to purchase their vacuum, any industrial vacuum will work.

Also wear ear muffs , heavy gloves and eye protection.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

Look back into some of my pictures. You have to shave, then go over that with 16 grit and then go over that with 36, prime and then palm sand. That is the right way to do it for us. I have not seen many others prepping the same way that we do and we are fast.
Shaver will scare you and you won't want to use it after the first ten mins. Stick with it.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

I paint shave, then sand with my rotex, oil prime, light sandpaper again, caulk, putty nail holes and skim the timber with exterior wood filler, spot prime again and finally 2 topcoats acrylic. Its a long process but I want the job to look perfect.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

Brian watch that wood filler. Once that dries out you will loose the bond to the substrate and be screwed. You should look into Elastomeric Spackle. It will always remain flexible.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I asked about elastomeric spackle for wood and was told it would not work. Stucco type stuff only


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

I have got the art of blade filling with flexible caulking down to a good finish.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I asked about elastomeric spackle for wood and was told it would not work. Stucco type stuff only


Ben Moore has knife-grade elastomeric compound, basically caulk in a tub. 

Not sure why you would need to do much widespread smoothing. After the sanding the siding usually looks really good. At least the old growth cedar they used to use around here. Man that stuff is beautiful when it's taken down to bare wood and sanded. I've had people ask if we can just clear coat it.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

our timber is pine, so the paint shaver tears it up pretty rough. Filling is for any gouges and knot holes.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Can't imagine pine siding. I think we're spoiled with Cedar. Except for all the yahoos that insist cedar doesn't hold paint. Meh


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

most timber siding in Australia is pine. We have radiata and Baltic pine. We don't get snow or extreme cold down here so the pine seems to lasts the distance.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Can't imagine pine siding. I think we're spoiled with Cedar. Except for all the yahoos that insist cedar doesn't hold paint. Meh


It must be true cause I read it on the internet.

The only pine we see is in homes from the 1800"s or older with the original siding, That isn't to often since most have been resided at some point.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Can't imagine pine siding. I think we're spoiled with Cedar. Except for all the yahoos that insist cedar doesn't hold paint. Meh


In 30+ years of painting exteriors, I think we've encountered 1 house with pine siding. I knew it wasn't cedar, but wasn't sure what it was until some claps had to be removed. On the back, there were stickers touting that it was "Genuine Idaho White Pine" siding.

There's nothing like clear, VG cedar siding. As you say, Damon, when you get it stripped, it looks like new. I don't know who came up with the notion that it doesn't hold paint. That's certainly not the case around here.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

I have had difficulty with getting a long lasting finish on bare cedar window frames. The paint seems to fail after 5 years. I now apply a penetrol and zinsser oil primer mix which seems to work.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Brian C said:


> I have had difficulty with getting a long lasting finish on bare cedar window frames. The paint seems to fail after 5 years. I now apply a penetrol and zinsser oil primer mix which seems to work.


G'day Brian 

I don't know if it's just me or does our Cedar seem to peel as in layers compared to other Timber it's like it sheds it's skin I'm Talking as in the wood itself not the paint I guess when it occurs the paint goes with it lol

our sun eats it up


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Brian C said:


> I have had difficulty with getting a long lasting finish on bare cedar window frames. The paint seems to fail after 5 years. I now apply a penetrol and zinsser oil primer mix which seems to work.


The Forest Products Laboratory here in the US has done lots of research on exterior coatings. Their solution for heavily exposed wood, like window sills is to use a paintable water-repellent wood preservative followed by a long-oil primer and finished with an acrylic top coat. What you're using is close to that.
IIRC, they recommend treating the sills with the preservative "to the point of refusal".


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

benthepainter said:


> G'day Brian
> 
> I don't know if it's just me or does our Cedar seem to peel as in layers compared to other Timber it's like it sheds it's skin I'm Talking as in the wood itself not the paint I guess when it occurs the paint goes with it lol
> 
> our sun eats it up


Ben,
I think Cedar has a lot of natural oils in the wood that act as a release agent causing the paint to fail. Its also been my experience that cedar weatherboards ( siding ) can have paint coming off in sheets when you scrape it.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Brian C said:


> Ben, I think Cedar has a lot of natural oils in the wood that act as a release agent causing the paint to fail. Its also been my experience that cedar weatherboards ( siding ) can have paint coming off in sheets when you scrape it.


G'day Brian

I don't do much new work but I find if it's those new Stegbar windows if it's Cedar the grain some times is already lifting ? Have you found that ?


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

Yes I have. Modern materials are crap.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Brian C said:


> I have had difficulty with getting a long lasting finish on bare cedar window frames. The paint seems to fail after 5 years. I now apply a penetrol and zinsser oil primer mix which seems to work.


I'm going to Give your Recipe a Mix : )


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

This raised a question, when you guys from Australia are talking "Cedar", what wood are you actually talking about? One of the problems with common names for woods is that they vary so much around the country and around the world. For us in the Pacific Northwest of the US, we're talking about western red cedar, Thuja plicata, that's an evergreen in the cypress family. The guys in the northeastern US, might mean white cedar, Thuja occidentalis, another cypress. Neither of these is a "true" cedar.

Are you talking about Toona ciliata? If so, that's a deciduous tree in the mahogany family. The other cedar from that part of the world is the New Zealish cedar, Libocedrus bidwillii, also a cypress.

Whew, nice to know that I didn't totally waste those 9 years at uni.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Gough said:


> This raised a question, when you guys from Australia are talking "Cedar", what wood are you actually talking about? One of the problems with common names for woods is that they vary so much around the country and around the world. For us in the Pacific Northwest of the US, we're talking about western red cedar, Thuja plicata, that's an evergreen in the cypress family. The guys in the northeastern US, might mean white cedar, Thuja occidentalis, another cypress. Neither of these is a "true" cedar.
> 
> Are you talking about Toona ciliata? If so, that's a deciduous tree in the mahogany family. The other cedar from that part of the world is the New Zealish cedar, Libocedrus bidwillii, also a cypress.
> 
> Whew, nice to know that I didn't totally waste those 9 years at uni.


Impressive. I just learned some thing else form you. Now I have to really try to remember lol.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

We import western red cedar as it doesn't grow naturally here.


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