# Furniture Store Floor



## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Looking at a furniture store floor tomorrow (will be store, is empty currently). Aprox. 20,000 square feet. It has paint on it right now, and has been waxed. I was planning on stripping wax with a floor machine, scuff sanding, and painting. It is a rental property so they want something that will last them the remaining 3 years of their lease without being super beefy that they will get charged for it when they move out. I was going to seal the floor too after painting to give it some extra protection. I could also just use a floor wax (paste wax). Any suggestions on a good coating for this and would putting a waterbased sealer on it be beneficial? If not, what about a good post paint wax? It also is going to have a path painted around the store for "isles." Tape with a laser and burn in with base coat or is there a faster method of doing this? The budget isnt huge because its a rental so I am looking for something that is decent but not say the best, no expense spared floor coating. Might a urethane pull the previous coating off?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

A furniture store and a golf course! Branching out huh! Way to go!:thumbsup:
How is the putt putt job coming?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

omg I am so mad I am painting that mountain. Shoulda hired a professional . . . the prep work killed me as the concrete was just so soft. Patches came out almost flawless though, finally have it primed and about half painted. The inside projects went great, made good money.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Not trying to derail or anything:whistling2:
Curious as to what you ended up using on walls? Pictures would be nice!


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I used Aura, looked pretty good. I have pics, will post when all done with both projects. LOTS of repair to the lower portions of the walls.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

hmm maybe chalkline to lay out the isles? What is going to be the fastest?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> Looking at a furniture store floor tomorrow (will be store, is empty currently). Aprox. 20,000 square feet. It has paint on it right now, and has been waxed. I was planning on stripping wax with a floor machine, scuff sanding, and painting. It is a rental property so they want something that will last them the remaining 3 years of their lease without being super beefy that they will get charged for it when they move out. I was going to seal the floor too after painting to give it some extra protection. I could also just use a floor wax (paste wax). Any suggestions on a good coating for this and would putting a waterbased sealer on it be beneficial? If not, what about a good post paint wax? It also is going to have a path painted around the store for "isles." Tape with a laser and burn in with base coat or is there a faster method of doing this? The budget isnt huge because its a rental so I am looking for something that is decent but not say the best, no expense spared floor coating. Might a urethane pull the previous coating off?


Do you have a SW industrial rep in your area? Or a commercial store that can help guide you?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Do you have a SW industrial rep in your area? Or a commercial store that can help guide you?


I don't get to talk to my SW commercial rep. Don't buy enough paint i guess. Talked to BM and my store that sells PPG, i guess the owner is kind of or has been trained as a rep for them and both say waterborne epoxy, that seems like what we will go with. Another thing is that it is brick red and is to become medium light tan so 1coat coverage with the epoxy over two coats with the dtm type floor paint makes the epoxy cheaper and a better coating. I was just trying to feel out any other thoughts on it. Has anyone been using much of the waterborne epoxies?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

BM is really chasing this job. They think Super Spec Acrylic Waterborne Epoxy 256 will do for the base coat and on the path or "isles" we are going to go with a longer wearing clear coat on top, possibly in some kind of Faux finish. I can't wait to try and faux an epoxy, but hopefully we can figure something out. Anyone have any experience with BM's waterborne epoxies?


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> BM is really chasing this job. They think Super Spec Acrylic Waterborne Epoxy 256 will do for the base coat and on the path or "isles" we are going to go with a longer wearing clear coat on top, possibly in some kind of Faux finish. I can't wait to try and faux an epoxy, but hopefully we can figure something out. Anyone have any experience with BM's waterborne epoxies?


P42, Waterborne Polyamide Epoxy,great product, works great on most high traffic, moderate abuse floors, walls, block, etc. In the process of using over 800 gallons of 256-1B on University Student Center. Outstanding product for blocks walls etc, but being an acrylic epoxy, not sure it would work well on floors, but may last the three years you are looking for. PM if you have any questions about any of the epoxies. I have extensive experience with all solvent and water based epoxies including 100% solids.


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## Induspray (Dec 10, 2009)

*Painting previously painted floor in empty warehouse*

It seems like you have had to go through lots of steps for this floor. The biggest thing with floors is always the prep. If you dont do it right or enought of it then the whole job can fail. 

Anyone who does floors on a regular basis knows that shotblasting or diamond griding is the best way and fastest way to prep a floor. 

Shotblasting is a method of prep where small steel shot are propelled at the floor by high pressure air and vacuumed up filtering out the concrete dust / paint and recirculating the shot. This will strip all all the old paint, wax or any other debris or contaminants on the floor. You will now be left with a surface that feels like 80 grit sandpaper. Shotblasting can be subbed out to someone for 10cents to 25 cents per square foot (dont try and do it yourself). 

Now that the floor is blasted you can fill cracks or other imperfections if need be with a quick dry epoxy crack filler then begin coating. 

If a cheap price is the driving factor, a thin build epoxy like tile clad or Devoe 4508 epoxy can be used (generically polyamide epoxy). You can put down 2 coats by brush and roll for a system thickness of around 6 mils. The floor will not be 100% smooth as the blasting will give it a profile with 10 mil peaks and valleys. To do it better you would really want to put down 2 coats of 100% solids by squeegee (this is actually the standard way to do floors) . 

This will give you a fantastic smooth, easy to clean surface. There are lots of suppliers of 100% solids floor coatings so shop around, you can save yourself thousands of dollars on materials by spending some time seeing what is available in your area. Make sure the 100% Solids is designed for floors.


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