# Prep for semi-gloss paint



## jim1213 (Dec 4, 2012)

This may seen like a silly question to a professional painter, which I am not. Hope I'm posting in the right place. I was a drywall taper for over 20 years, but for the last 13 years I've been a plumber- a much easier trade guys. But where I'm located things are very slow, and I am thankful for my drywall skills as they provide additional employment opportunities. My current situation involves a level 5 finish on existing interior office spaces with somewhat forgiving baffled florescent light fixtures in the middle of the rooms, off the walls. The GC on this, a friend, knows very little about painting and has asked me to call the shots. The bottom 24" of drywall was removed and replaced (a plumbing related issue). Do I have to prime the entire wall to the ceiling, or can I just prime the new and then corner to corner with the actual paint? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hope I'm following proper procedure on this matter. I see that I skipped the intro page. I'll do that soon, right now I need to get some sleep. I have to be at the above mentioned job at 7am and I'm almost 100 miles away. Thanks again.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Best bet is to prime it all.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Level 5 finish with lights, I hope you are a very good drywaller:jester:

Prime the whole wall.:yes:


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Totally agree prime it all.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

If your going with the same color you just need to prime the new areas, the color is getting changed I would tint the primer and do the whole wall. This is just for flat finish only,eggshell or semi I may do a different process. Just read your title again and I see you need semi finish. I would prime the new area then put one coat of semi on new area then paint entire wall. Make sure you feather your edges and use a low nap roller


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## Big Hoss (Jul 7, 2012)

Toolnut said:


> Totally agree prime it all.


Yep. I would also recommend sanding between coats if you can. (Pole Sander). 
Usually what we do on Level 4 or 5.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Where are you guys working at? I've never seen an office anywhere near a level 5. The effort required just isn't worth the extra work IMHO. 

Honestly, if you roll ( or back roll) with even a 3/8, what was the point of level 5?


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Prime the whole thing


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Gibberish45 said:


> Where are you guys working at? I've never seen an office anywhere near a level 5. The effort required just isn't worth the extra work IMHO.
> 
> Honestly, if you roll ( or back roll) with even a 3/8, what was the point of level 5?


Sounds like what the customer wants, and hopefully is willing to pay for.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

In this case I'm going say to only prime the wall where it's new. Then do up to 3 coats of paint on new wall to blend in with the old, previously painted wall.

Use 1/4" nap on the walls, cut then roll over your cut line instantly. Focus on an even sheen & stipple. Not easy for a rookie painter.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Toolnut said:


> Sounds like what the customer wants, and hopefully is willing to pay for.


So how is OP applying paint over said level 5 finish? I argue that even a 3/8 stipple from a sleeve will cover up any noticeable difference between level 4 and 5 finishes as defined by the Recommended levels of Gypsum Board Finish.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

If I understand your question correctly and I'm not sure I do. What you are saying is you can turn a level 4 into a level 5 by just painting it.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Toolnut said:


> If I understand your question correctly and I'm not sure I do. What you are saying is you can turn a level 4 into a level 5 by just painting it.


Strictly speaking, you can't, since Level 5 has, by definition, a skim coat. Can you get it close enough to pass muster? Possibly.

The answer the OP's question, I'd prime the whole wall. You're running primer anyway, so it's hardly an extra step. Then you've got a whole wall with a uniform surface. I've seen roller stipple end up being noticeably different on primed versus painted areas, especially area painted with sheened paints. Once that happens, it's a chore to eliminate.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Spot prime and paint and don't over think or worry. Sounds like an office had a flood. Their working life has been terribly disrupted for the last two to three weeks. They just want their offices back and the contractors gone and once they move back in the furniture, tack boards, pictures and everything else you can't hardly see the walls that are causing you this worry.


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## TRossi88 (Dec 28, 2012)

If you are just matching the existing I would only prime the new Dry Wall and any patches you do on the top section. Then I would put one coat finish and see how it looks. If it looks good then I would do a Full Second coat over the whole wall. Also make sure you feather out your prime and first finish so you don't have any lines.

Are you sure the existing is Semi-gloss it seem odd to me that someone would put that sheen on the walls it is usually eggshell in my experience and semi trim.

Good Luck and hopefully you can keep busy


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

Ok today we are going to have a pop quiz :thumbup:

What do you get when you add 

semi-gloss paint + drywall taper for over 20 years + 13 year plumber + level 5 finish + light fixtures + GC who knows very little about painting = ????

Free behr t-shirt to correct answer :euro:


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

A wall that looks like stucco?


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

Repaint Florida said:


> Ok today we are going to have a pop quiz :thumbup:
> 
> What do you get when you add
> 
> ...


More rolls than a coaster in an amusement park


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

a circle jerk?


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