# Has anyone used Valspar Brilliant Metals paint?



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

So here's the low down. I bid a nice little job it's an old small chapel in downtown Charleston that's being converted into a 375sqft studio apartment. 

The client likes our proposal but he now wants to use Valspar Brilliant Metals paint on the ceiling and wants to know how much more it would cost. After work today I stopped into Lowes and got a little literature on the product. 

Here's their instructions:

Step 1. Apply Valspar base coat. Allow to dry overnight. 

Step 2. Using Brilliant Metals, start by brushing a 2—3 inch border ("cut in") around the ceiling, floor, trim edges and corners. Note: Do not cut in around the entire room at once as this can cause a banded appearance. Rather, brush out the edges in sections.

Step 3.Working in 2 ft. tall x 4 ft. wide sections, roll the paint in an up and down motion only (never side-to-side). Finish an entire vertical column of sections. When finished, without adding more paint, finish with long, even strokes from ceiling to floor. Note: Do not push on the roller. If lap lines are visible, reroll the line in a light, single ceiling-to-floor motion.

Step 4. Allow to dry completely (at least 4 hours). Apply a second coat using the same rolling method as the first coat (no "cutting in" is necessary). Finish will appear uneven until dry.

The instructions I read in the store said that 3 or 4 coats may be necessary to achieve a desired finish so I'm gonna figure it taking the base coat plus 4 to cover my bases.

Here's what the ceiling looks like only on a way smaller scale










So here's my questions, has anyone ever used it and how did it come out? Can it be sprayed to make it more uniform or does it have to be brushed and rolled? Should I run?

This job has a pretty nice price tag on it (for the size) and it'd fill a little hole I have in the schedule so I'd hate to loose it over this silly ceiling paint, any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Guys


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

Unfortunately I can't help you, but this sounds like a cool project. If you decide to do it please post pics.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

David's Painting said:


> Unfortunately I can't help you, but this sounds like a cool project. If you decide to do it please post pics.


Will do. It's defiantly a cool little project and I'd like to do it. I'm just a little leery when it comes to finishes I have no experience with.


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

I helped my brother-in-law do that type of finish but can't remember the brand.I guess it probably was Valspar.I remember dry brushing instead of dry rolling it though.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Do you remember how many coats it took and if it all looked uniform when you were finished?


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

It turned out great the HO loved it.It was sort of a gold/burnt amber color.It was a few years ago but I remember it.Not sure about uniform....best I remember it was lighter in spots but I think that was the desired effect. We dry brushed it though....not dry rolled.Think it was two coats.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

sounds like most metallics. microfiber naps or sprayed on. modern masters is a better brand.


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## four2knapp (Jun 19, 2011)

If they want a uniform metallic finish, then, spray. depending on the current ceiling colour you may have to base with a similar colour to the metallic.

Otherwise, you will need to roll 3-4 metallic coats, roll in the same direction so that the mica will reflect uniformly. 

Or....roll a base coat similar to metallic colour then randomly brush or roll with a small roller in random direction. Quick and easy!


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Paradigmzz said:


> sounds like most metallics. microfiber naps or sprayed on. modern masters is a better brand.


So metallics can be sprayed that's good to know. 

I'm sure there are way better brands, but for some reason this guy's hellbent on valspar for this project.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

four2knapp said:


> If they want a uniform metallic finish, then, spray. depending on the current ceiling colour you may have to base with a similar colour to the metallic.
> 
> Otherwise, you will need to roll 3-4 metallic coats, roll in the same direction so that the mica will reflect uniformly.
> 
> Or....roll a base coat similar to metallic colour then randomly brush or roll with a small roller in random direction. Quick and easy!


Yes, on the color sample they tell you which color should be used as a base coat.


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## four2knapp (Jun 19, 2011)

Metallics are a PITA!

This is a pic of 3 coats rolled Modern Masters "Pale Gold." The client wanted a uniform finish. Huge PITA!!!!!!!


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

If you decide to go the valspar route. Spray it


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> If you decide to go the valspar route. Spray it


That's what I'll do. From their directions I wasn't even sure if it could be sprayed.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

basecoat first. Get ready to look like the tin man. Wear a Tyvek suit. If you want to go another route without spraying, you an cross hatch with a 4" brush. It will give you "directional sheen" not a uniform appearance, but easier to hide any dry laps.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Since you need a base coat and possibly 4 more coats I'm going to assume it's pretty watery stuff. What tip size would you guys recommend?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Since its so small I was originally thinking about using my proshot.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Is your PS new? you will be shooting straight up. Base coat in similar colored paint will eliminate 3 to 4 topciats of metallic.if shot consistently,theoretically can do in one. two cross hatched wet on wet would be your best bet. No dry,just fly.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Note: Do not cut in around the entire room at once as this can cause a banded appearance. Rather, brush out the edges in sections.
> 
> ...
> 
> Apply a second coat using the same rolling method as the first coat (no "cutting in" is necessary).


:bangin:


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Paradigmzz said:


> Is your PS new? you will be shooting straight up. Base coat in similar colored paint will eliminate 3 to 4 topciats of metallic.if shot consistently,theoretically can do in one. two cross hatched wet on wet would be your best bet. No dry,just fly.


My ps is relatively new I've only run a few qts through it. I'd say it's a 50/50 mix of strait up and vertical.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I just got done doing a Valspar metallic paint job. In my opinion it's only good for certain applications, I don't really like it. I thought I would but compared to other stuff it's a p.o.s. 


** Be warned this paint is more like a glaze, depending on where you look it could be a completely different color. I hope the buyer knows this. 

I say this because I just got done doing a small sample of copper metallic paint and the thing looked hot pink/neon pink when you first walked in the room, but looked more like copper when you stood at basically a 90 degree angle to it. I ended up redoing it because I didn't like the way it looked. Took my $45 and tossed it in the toilet, got 95% of a gallon left over. 


Anyway enough about my rant. I suggest spraying, it's faster and you'll get better results, just make sure you put it on wet and not try to do some sort of dry spray technique. The paint takes awhile to setup/dry so don't freak out if it looks more like paint than "metal" at first, the specks of "metal" will come out more pronounced as it dries.

If your going to use the proshot, depending on if you have version 2 or not, I'd be careful spraying the ceiling with it. The first version had a bad tendency to not want to spray vertically very well, that's why they changed the fluid intake in version 2. 

Hope that answers some questions? 

p.s.
def. use the basecoat, like I said it's more like a glaze so the base coast will actually aid you in achieving the finished look.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> So metallics can be sprayed that's good to know.
> 
> I'm sure there are way better brands, but for some reason this guy's hellbent on valspar for this project.


 Theres nothing brillant about Valspar!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

mudbone said:


> Theres nothing brillant about Valspar!


Overall there paint isn't all that bad. I wouldn't use all their products though.

I like their "venetian plaster" aka venetian paint product a lot. One of the few finishes that come out actually the way it looks on the sample cards.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> I just got done doing a Valspar metallic paint job. In my opinion it's only good for certain applications, I don't really like it. I thought I would but compared to other stuff it's a p.o.s.
> 
> ** Be warned this paint is more like a glaze, depending on where you look it could be a completely different color. I hope the buyer knows this.
> 
> ...


Yes that defiantly helped and I'll be sure to warn my client that it may look different at certain angles. 

I have the ps2 but I haven't used it on a ceiling yet.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

What color do they want done? Like a copper or silver? Just curious.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I had planned to post these in another thread later down the road, but since we're on the topic of valspar metals, here are the pictures I was talking about/pink issue.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

woodcoyote said:


> Overall there paint is all that bad. I wouldn't use all their products though.
> 
> I like their "venetian plaster" aka venetian paint product a lot. One of the few finishes that come out actually the way it looks on the sample cards.


 All that bad is correct!:yes:


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> What color do they want done? Like a copper or silver? Just curious.


I'm not sure yet. We're meeting with him again on Tuesday afternoon to go over some details so I'll find out then and let you know.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> I had planned to post these in another thread later down the road, but since we're on the topic of valspar metals, here are the pictures I was talking about/pink issue.


Wow that looks really pink. I'll be sure to warn him about that, thanks.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> My ps is relatively new I've only run a few qts through it. I'd say it's a 50/50 mix of strait up and vertical.


You need/ needed to base coat it. Do you guys do sample boards?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Paradigmzz said:


> You need/ needed to base coat it. Do you guys do sample boards?


Yes I'll base coat it. It actually says on the back of the color samples which color to base coat with. 

I have sample boards of some different things like shadow striping and stuff but nothing like this. Making one before doing it may be a good idea tho.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

If I was you I would talk to them into SW Metallic Impressions, contact your rep. he can let you play with the 3 types of metallics they have before you even start the job and of course they have better products than Valspar. 

Consired that if you run into a problem you have some kind of back up from the paintstore because the guy that mixes you Valspar metallic next week he might be working on the garden department and he won't be able to help you.

Now if you want to go fancy look into Crescent Bronze Metallics

Call and ask for this pamplet


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> If I was you I would talk to them into SW Metallic Impressions, contact your rep. he can let you play with the 3 types of metallics they have before you even start the job and of course they have better products than Valspar.
> 
> Consired that if you run into a problem you have some kind of back up from the paintstore because the guy that mixes you Valspar metallic next week he might be working on the garden department and he won't be able to help you.
> 
> ...


I'm going to call my rep tomorrow about it.

I just called valspar, they said that it cannot be sprayed and has to be rolled. They also warned me that it's extremely difficult to work with. So now if I spray and it looks like crap it'll be because I didn't roll it. 

If my sw rep says I can play with it first and it can be sprayed I'm gonna tell my client that it's sw or nothing.


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

I did a 12' high wall with Modern Masters metallic once. Basecoat, rolled 1 coat, brushed crosshatching final. and had client approve 4x4 sample board first. The client definitely needs to see s sample board first and approved because typically they have no idea what to expect. I think it could be sprayed but hvlp, not airless. I was amazed at the coverage! Still have a Fallon left.

I highly recommend doing samples for yourself first when trying something for the first time, then you have it for next time as well.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

HJ61 said:


> I did a 12' high wall with Modern Masters metallic once. Basecoat, rolled 1 coat, brushed crosshatching final. and had client approve 4x4 sample board first. The client definitely needs to see s sample board first and approved because typically they have no idea what to expect. I think it could be sprayed but hvlp, not airless. I was amazed at the coverage! Still have a Fallon left.
> 
> I highly recommend doing samples for yourself first when trying something for the first time, then you have it for next time as well.


I'm going to do a sample board first with a disclaimer. Since large portions of the ceiling are rounded it may look differently than the flat sample board.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Here are my insights and suggestions:
Whether you use Valspar, MM, Faux Effects, Ben Moore Metallics or even Crescent- 1.Use a base coat similar in color to the desired effect 
2. It will take multiple coats to look 'right'
3. Do a sample board

You probably won't try it, but a big old damp sea sponge will give some good results. No lap lines, and easy to do. Just load up that sponge and do a little swish, swirl and pat it out with a damp cotton rag. When you get to corners and whatnot, stipple with a chip brush.
Make sure the sponge and rag have been moistened with water and rung out. You will need to re-moisten them as you go.This will work with Crescent Powder, but that powder needs to be mixed into something. We used to use Minwax Polycrylic. So because it is in the polycrylic, that sponge can dry up on you quickly.
If you use this technique , it will look good. Good luck.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

fauxlynn said:


> Here are my insights and suggestions:
> Whether you use Valspar, MM, Faux Effects, Ben Moore Metallics or even Crescent- 1.Use a base coat similar in color to the desired effect
> 2. It will take multiple coats to look 'right'
> 3. Do a sample board
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion! I'll give it a try on a sample board and if it seems easier or turns out better I'll give it a try.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I'd like to just take a time out and sincerely thank everyone for their tips and suggestions. 

This thread yet another great example as to why painttalk is such a great site and an invaluable resource to the trade. 

If I do get this job I'll be sure to post some before and after pics it should be a pretty cool looking job.


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## LarryHawk (Apr 8, 2011)

mudbone said:


> Theres nothing brillant about Valspar!


Sorry disagree...been a painting contractor for 25 years, and have all but abandoned the big boys. SW and BM are so overpriced, many of us pros are switching to big box stores like Home Depot, and Lowe's. 

The Paint is just as good. Repeat: The paint is just as good. And the price is way way better. I know a regional rep for Valspar, who previously worked for SW, and he 'secretly' told me the Valspar 2000 contractor line of paints is formulated to exactly match the SW Promar 200. He's right, I use the White High Hide flat for ceilings, and eggshell for walls and I can't be happier. They do have a high end Signature brand for high end jobs, that is fantastic. 

I know it may be hard for 'pros' to switch, but we did, and the only thing I question is why did we wait so long?


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## modernfinish (Mar 20, 2013)

I have a bit if experience applying metallic and as others have said modern masters is good way to go but I customer likes the sample they found then just go for it. 
But don't use an airless or at least for the finish coats it will clog the tip big time ...
Use a HVLP for sure. FWIW


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

LarryHawk said:


> Sorry disagree...been a painting contractor for 25 years, and have all but abandoned the big boys. SW and BM are so overpriced, many of us pros are switching to big box stores like Home Depot, and Lowe's.
> 
> The Paint is just as good. Repeat: The paint is just as good. And the price is way way better. I know a regional rep for Valspar, who previously worked for SW, and he 'secretly' told me the Valspar 2000 contractor line of paints is formulated to exactly match the SW Promar 200. He's right, I use the White High Hide flat for ceilings, and eggshell for walls and I can't be happier. They do have a high end Signature brand for high end jobs, that is fantastic.
> 
> I know it may be hard for 'pros' to switch, but we did, and the only thing I question is why did we wait so long?


 Just joking.The reason 2000 is formulated like 200 is cause sw chemist left them and is now working for Valspar I was told.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I love when noobs take mudbone's one liners to heart and try to argue it. It's almost funnier than the original one liner.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

LarryHawk said:


> Sorry disagree...been a painting contractor for 25 years, and have all but abandoned the big boys. SW and BM are so overpriced, many of us pros are switching to big box stores like Home Depot, and Lowe's.
> 
> The Paint is just as good. Repeat: The paint is just as good. And the price is way way better. I know a regional rep for Valspar, who previously worked for SW, and he 'secretly' told me the Valspar 2000 contractor line of paints is formulated to exactly match the SW Promar 200. He's right, I use the White High Hide flat for ceilings, and eggshell for walls and I can't be happier. They do have a high end Signature brand for high end jobs, that is fantastic.
> 
> I know it may be hard for 'pros' to switch, but we did, and the only thing I question is why did we wait so long?


I can't agree more


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

LarryHawk said:


> Sorry disagree...been a painting contractor for 25 years, and have all but abandoned the big boys. SW and BM are so overpriced, many of us pros are switching to big box stores like Home Depot, and Lowe's.
> 
> The Paint is just as good. Repeat: The paint is just as good. And the price is way way better. I know a regional rep for Valspar, who previously worked for SW, and he 'secretly' told me the Valspar 2000 contractor line of paints is formulated to exactly match the SW Promar 200. He's right, I use the White High Hide flat for ceilings, and eggshell for walls and I can't be happier. They do have a high end Signature brand for high end jobs, that is fantastic.
> 
> I know it may be hard for 'pros' to switch, but we did, and the only thing I question is why did we wait so long?


 I know a guy who was a rep for Pella windows for several years and told me that Pella was the best window in the world. Now he sells windows for Jeld-wen and he tells me that Pella windows are very much sub-standard. Go figure.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I love when noobs take mudbone's one liners to heart and try to argue it. It's almost funnier than the original one liner.


Yep - not really their fault though. Some are in the cooler before they even know they were hooked. :yes:


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

We used Ralph Lauren a couple of times. We sprayed it and two guys would walk in straight lines to roll it. Very hard process. Great results. Straight spraying might not give the finished results that you are trying to achieve.


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## LarryHawk (Apr 8, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I love when noobs take mudbone's one liners to heart and try to argue it. It's almost funnier than the original one liner.


Ha-ha the kid called me a noob. I'm 63 years old, and 25 years in my own business, and painting for 40 years and I'm a noob. Good one.

BYW... who's trying to argue?

BTW2...I can compare both Sherwin Wiliiams and Valspar, since I have used both for years. That is why I can confirm the Valspar rep is correct. Plus if you read the specs...not much different. Just trying to help, do what you want, it's your money.



> I know a guy who was a rep for Pella windows for several years and told me that Pella was the best window in the world. Now he sells windows for Jeld-wen and he tells me that Pella windows are very much sub-standard. Go figure.


Can't comment on what the Jeld-wen Pella Windows rep said. Don't know if he's right or not, not a window expert. I am qualified to confirm that the Valspar rep is correct, my experience with both Valspar and SW proves him correct.
Again ...just trying to help.


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## LarryHawk (Apr 8, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> The client likes our proposal but he now wants to use Valspar Brilliant Metals paint on the ceiling and wants to know how much more it would cost. After work today I stopped into Lowes and got a little literature on the product.
> So here's my questions, has anyone ever used it and how did it come out? Should I run?


 I used it..once.. and that was once too many, my advise...RUN
Just sayin'


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

LarryHawk said:


> I used it..once.. and that was once too many, my advise...RUN
> Just sayin'


When I gave him the price he ran. He didn't realize how much more involved it would be than using normal paint. We wound up painting the ceiling with pm 200 low sheen. Cant say I was disappointed.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

LarryHawk said:


> I used it..once.. and that was once too many, my advise...RUN
> Just sayin'


 Run and Runs!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Best to use Modern Masters at the end of the day.


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## AZ Painting (Mar 19, 2013)

Nice project. Look forward to final pictures and no, I haven't used those products. 
Good luck!


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

I never got to see the final pics.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I never got to see the final pics.


Yea I would have loved to share them however my daughter (5 year old) had other plans. 

She took the camera played with it and lost the memory card  I lost that project and a couple other ones. It's a shame, that place had a ton of intricate trim work and really cool looking architecture. Would have made for some good website pics too.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Yea I would have loved to share them however my daughter (5 year old) had other plans.
> 
> She took the camera played with it and lost the memory card  I lost that project and a couple other ones. It's a shame, that place had a ton of intricate trim work and really cool looking architecture. Would have made for some good website pics too.


Well. You know what they say "pics or it didn't happen".


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Well. You know what they say "pics or it didn't happen".


Don't count me out just yet Edgar. Kids are remarkably good at hiding things but it'll prolly turn up at some point. When and if I do find it I'll post some before and afters. :yes:


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I had a PC just use a ton of the new Molten Metallics. He used 9 gallons in Copper....all in quarts...and another 4 gallons in Bronze. The copper was a huge mess, its difficult to get an even finish even with the long open time. Its opaque, but the issue is with the hammering effect. Its almost like it "fish eyes", and every place it does is basically transparent. So getting it to hide is difficult without a similar color base coat. He base coated the bronze and it worked much better. The copper he used on a ceiling, and the bronze was used for pillars.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> I had a PC just use a ton of the new Molten Metallics. He used 9 gallons in Copper....all in quarts...and another 4 gallons in Bronze. The copper was a huge mess, its difficult to get an even finish even with the long open time. Its opaque, but the issue is with the hammering effect. Its almost like it "fish eyes", and every place it does is basically transparent. So getting it to hide is difficult without a similar color base coat. He base coated the bronze and it worked much better. The copper he used on a ceiling, and the bronze was used for pillars.


I think the basecoat is mandatory with metallic paint. 
Unless they come up with metallic and basecoat in one.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Don't count me out just yet Edgar. Kids are remarkably good at hiding things but it'll prolly turn up at some point. When and if I do find it I'll post some before and afters. :yes:


I know dude. I was just messing with you.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I think the basecoat is mandatory with metallic paint.
> Unless they come up with metallic and basecoat in one.


True, but there's no mention of needing a base coat on the can or brochures. It is much easier to use than the metallic glaze for large solid areas.


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## sayer (Jun 21, 2013)

*Cover in paint*

test


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

NCPaint1 said:


> True, but there's no mention of needing a base coat on the can or brochures. It is much easier to use than the metallic glaze for large solid areas.


I know Valspar tells you what color to use as a base coat on the brilliant metals color samples.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> True, but there's no mention of needing a base coat on the can or brochures. It is much easier to use than the metallic glaze for large solid areas.


Metallics like Valspar and SW Impressions recommend a base coat and sometimes it has the color written on the back.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

So what did you endup using? Did you spray it?


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