# Bin Primer



## ceramicbrad56 (Aug 24, 2017)

Hi. For anyone who has tried the new water based Zinsser Bin Synthetic Shellac based Primer, how good is its stain blocking on Oak cabinet doors compared to the original Zinsser Bin Shellac Based Primer? I have heard that it has some bleed through problems on doors(not boxes) and wondered if others have had this issue.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Just use the original. We've not heard good things about it.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Not good. Nothing is every better than the real thing.


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## ceramicbrad56 (Aug 24, 2017)

Thx Woodco and MikeCalifornia, will stick with the real thing.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ceramicbrad56 said:


> Thx Woodco and MikeCalifornia, will stick with the real thing.


Good decision. I used it once and had to go over it with a coat of the real thing in order to get what I needed.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I tested it and several other "sealing" waterbased primers a couple of years ago in my hillbilly test lab. It was marginally better than some pretty basic primers such as Kilz Latex and Bullseye 123. I was not impressed at all. Stick with the original shellac based bins. It is more expensive, and there is a reason for that.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

PACman said:


> I tested it and several other "sealing" waterbased primers a couple of years ago in my hillbilly test lab. It was marginally better than some pretty basic primers such as Kilz Latex and Bullseye 123. I was not impressed at all. Stick with the original shellac based bins. It is more expensive, and there is a reason for that.


I have had the latex version stick to prefinished cabinets with minimal sanding. I have also used it on varnished wood in occupied areas. The adhesion was great and the stain blocking was also very good. I have used it many other times without failure. For bonding, it or the or xim has the best product for a latex. It also gives you the stain blocking characteristic which the xim doesn't do. I would put it above the oil coverstain for sure, but the regular bin oil will always be the best. This product is good for occupied areas due to the smell factor, and the other reason I like using it is when spraying because usually you are changing over to a latex top coat. It's just easier.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have had success with the synthetic shellac on oak cabinets. But, I currently have a job where it does not seem to be working 100%. I will say that wb primers sometime show bleed through but the stain stays locked in the primer film and does not migrate through the topcoat. But, that makes me nervous. I do not like seeing any bleed through in the primer before topcoating.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Jmays posted a great comparison thread about the synthetic stuff when it first came out. It looked like a great alternative at the beginning, but then a bunch of guys started having problems with the stuff 'curdling' on them. Brand new cans too. Turned to cottage cheese in the can. Everyone went back to the original from what it sounds like.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I never had a gallon curdle on me. Not unopened, not opened and then sits for months, etc.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

They stopped shaking up the shellac cows before milking them. If you want stain blocking then use the original. After that... it's up to you what you use for regular applications. Same goes for SW's knock off versions.


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