# Rust!



## PeintureLavergne.com (Dec 17, 2011)

I've been painting iron fences, stairs and else for many years now... I've tried pressure washing, grinding, sanding, spot priming, priming the whole thing, regular paint, cheap paint, expensive paint... But, my work never seems to last more then 3 years! I'm frustrated. I want to find something that will make the rust go away and not come back for a long time... can you tell me about your ways and the tricks or products you've found that make your work last?
Do you guys know Noxyde http://www.rustoleumibg.com/product.asp?lvl=P&pnv=2&snv=6&pid=161 and Por 15?
http://www.por15canada.com/catalogue/


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

rust never sleeps


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## johnny949 (Apr 13, 2012)

It's the nature of the beast you cannot get rid of it, only slow it down. I'd spot prime a couple times with rust destroyer then follow up with your plan of prime and finish coats.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Insul-x Corotech Pre-prime 100% solids epoxy. Penetrates and encapsulates the rust so it can't grow.


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## spotco2 (Sep 18, 2012)

POR15 rocks. It covers very well and takes weeks to wear off your skin.

I've used it on auto parts and some tractor parts that are always out in the weather and it has not failed in the past 7 or 8 years since I first applied it to my bush hog.

It does not level out well though when brushed. I've never tried to spray it before. The things I used it on did not really require a delicate touch or anyone elses approval on the finished product.


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Grinding only spreads hydrocarbons and soluble salt around the metal. When salts are still left on the surface of metal and you paint over it the salts will draw moisture into the coating and down to the salts... This causes a corrosion cell.

As to SSPC and NACE standards all cleaning should start with a SP-1(solvent cleaning). You should clean with a aliphatic solvent followed by a aromatic Solvent to get rid of any residue from the aliphatic solvents. Only after that you should start with SP-2(hand tool cleaning) or sp-3(power tool cleaning). 

After that dust all the metal off followed by another solvent cleaning.. Apply a good coating system after that.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Lambrecht said:


> Insul-x Corotech Pre-prime 100% solids epoxy. Penetrates and encapsulates the rust so it can't grow.


The V155 Pre Prime is an excellent choice followed by the Prep Standards recommended by True Color. Another choice is an MCU (moisture cured urethane) Zinc. I would include a blast standard as well or at least SSPC - SP 11 power tool clean to bright metal. Convertors are on the low scale of Prep Standards. All ferrous metal will eventually corrode. Other choices are epoxy mastic or polyamide epoxy primer. All epoxy should be topcoated with a urethane or color and abrasion resistance.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

I did a little research on POR15 last night. It can bond to metal and other surfaces such as wood or concrete. For me living on the coast with all of the incompetent builders using galv nails for siding, a fresh paint job can turn ugly in months. Like NACE said about converters being low scale prep, they haven't proved effective for very long. I've gotten close to just throwing in the towel, but am interested in trying the POR15.... Any other testimonials with this product?


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

chrisn said:


> rust never sleeps


 rust never sleeps and always eats!


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## PeintureLavergne.com (Dec 17, 2011)

House of colour... About Por 15... I've never used it... but I know it is verrrrry expensive. There is a reason why it is mostly used on car parts...

True colour and Nace, thank you for your input! ... I'll have to spend a couple hours googling! 

I'm surprised nobody spoke of noxyde... 

So... What do you think the best prep work and product will add in terms of duration compared to a very basic prep?
Do you think that priming the whole surface (even pre painted) makes any difference? 
And, how long do you expect your work to last before rust starts to show?


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

chrisn said:


> rust never sleeps


 When your out of the blue and into the black :whistling2:


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## sqcapt (Aug 14, 2012)

Lambrecht said:


> Insul-x Corotech Pre-prime 100% solids epoxy. Penetrates and encapsulates the rust so it can't grow.


These pre-prime products were designed for "less than ideal surface preparation" conditions. Unless you absolutely cannot reach the part by hand to properly prepare substrate, I would choose a lower-solids by volume epoxy with urethane topcoat system. Cheaper, longer pot life, higher build. Better results.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Woodland said:


> When your out of the blue and into the black :whistling2:


 
rock and roll is here to stay:thumbsup:


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

PeintureLavergne.com said:


> House of colour... About Por 15... I've never used it... but I know it is verrrrry expensive. There is a reason why it is mostly used on car parts...



A couple hundred bucks to get a house full of rusty nails to stop bleeding through is not expensive. It says it bonds to wood as well so it could work. If Zinnser CS will stick to the POR 15 I think I am gong to give it a whirl. I read that the POR 15 works best on rusty surfaces.... Nuts.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...QMUjI5h5Ql0rTC2dQ&sig2=5VpE9bd9FJRuIXj9QMmylA

This is what I use now. On oceanfront properties it works fairly well. After a year there is a bit of a bleed through which occurs. Minimal considering the before and after inspection. I take care of the bleed through on an annual maintenance package I provide after washing. If there is something better though I am interested. Thus my interest.


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## PeintureLavergne.com (Dec 17, 2011)

If you do not get answers here, maybe you could try calling them? http://www.por15.com/contactus.asp 
I have spoken to the representative here but cannot compare it to Cortec and have no personal experience.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

What was your experience with them like over the phone? Happy to help extra mile type thing or did they act as if you were a bother?


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I've never sprayed POR 15 and not sure how it would do, but I've used it with a brush. When you brush it on, the directions are to brush on a very light coat as it cures as a much thicker encapsulating film. In cured form it's usually black, though it's paintable and must be top coated to prevent UV degradation.

And as mentioned, it isn't cheap in bulk form


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

chrisn said:


> rust never sleeps


 Never sleeps and always seems to peep!


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

chrisn said:


> rust never sleeps


 By the way neither does Philly!


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

mudbone said:


> By the way neither does Philly!


Indeed, in that last video he posted, he sure was "awake" and a lil' sweaty.....


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## PeintureLavergne.com (Dec 17, 2011)

HouseOfColor said:


> What was your experience with them like over the phone? Happy to help extra mile type thing or did they act as if you were a bother?


They were very nice the 1st time...


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Have used the Paint Over Rust 15 when we were doing old cars, then when I was maint. super. we used it on some iron railings on the front of the building. It is a good product does what it says. Hard to work with and anything it gets on, its going to STAY on, including you. About 10 years ago it was like $30 a qt. but it goes a long way.


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