# Which of these is your favorite Clear Coat?...



## PPD

Any thoughts on which of these has best application/performance for interior film?

•SW Kem Aqua

•ML Campbell: 
Agualente PLUS Clear
-OR- 
Aguatana WB 2K Conversion Urethane 

•Gemini Titanium (Clear Base)


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## Redux

Aguatana WB 2K Conversion Urethane has a tendency to congeal well short of the stated pot life, and I’m talking less than an hr.

Haven’t heard any bad reviews or problems with Aqualente Plus aside from low viscosity and long stack times. 

Can’t say I’ve heard anything negative about any of Gemini’s products either. The regional distributor is a few miles from me, a lot of nearby shops are using and swearing by their products.

You might also wish to repost over at some of the woodworking forums such as Sawmill Creek or the Woodweb. You’ll be certain to get a lot of technical feedback on all the products you mentioned.


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## RH

You left out Target Coatings - their Emtech 8000 is one of my favorites.


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## cocomonkeynuts

Lenmar


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## Redux

One other criticism with the Aguatana WB 2K Conversion Urethane Clear as with any isocyanate WB clear..I used it on two recent projects for bathroom vanities, and one issue I had was cratering and micro-bubbles. I didn’t have the opportunity to determine the cause/remedy, thinking it was likely caused due to CO2 production commonly associated when isocyanate hardeners are used in conjunction w/waterborne finishes. I wasn’t too mindful of the sweat in period, perhaps needing to let it go a bit longer. I haven’t used it enough to figure out all the nuances. The issue seemed to be pore related on the two different species I was finishing. Maybe there was residual moisture trapped in the pores from coloring treatment?..I dunno..I also find the congealing and clumping to be inherent with other 2K WB isocyanate clear finishes. For that reason I would only use a cup gun when using 2K PU finishes. I would definitely give the product another go. Below is a good article on the product:

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/...ing-Zero-Formaldehyde-Coatings-144906925.html

I’m with RH on Target Coatings. I’m a big fan of the EMTECH lineup.

I’d also like to learn more about the WB Lenmar products that Cocomonkeynuts mentioned. The Lenmar oil PU’s have always been a favorite of mine for rolled floored applications, although recently switching to Poloplaz for rolled oil PU’s.


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## PNW Painter

If you’re considering Kem Aqua Plus, then you should look at SW HydroPlus. I’ve had excellent results with it on multiple projects. I’ve sprayed with with using an airless and AAA. It’s a little thicker than Kem Aqua Plus and isn’t as prone to sagging. The finish is also exceptionally hard.

I also wanted to mention that any products containing isocyanates can be very harmful to your health. Read up on it if the product you choose contains them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cocomonkeynuts

Alchemy Redux said:


> ...
> I’d also like to learn more about the WB Lenmar products that Cocomonkeynuts mentioned. The Lenmar oil PU’s have always been a favorite of mine for rolled floored applications, although recently switching to Poloplaz for rolled oil PU’s.



Lenmar equivalent would be the precatalyzed Megavar 

http://www.lenmar-coatings.com/product-detail/pro/lenmar/megavar-waterborne-polyurethane-finish. Lenmar doesn't currently manufacture a WB 'conversion varnish'. They do make a 2K polyurethane though. 

http://www.lenmar-coatings.com/product-detail/pro/lenmar/clearcoat-pro-xd-waterborne-floor-finish



Neither product contains isocyanate.


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## PPD

RH said:


> You left out Target Coatings - their Emtech 8000 is one of my favorites.



I love EM8000 - am not familiar with any of these though so wanted to hear what everyone thought before selecting one to play with


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## PPD

PNW Painter said:


> If you’re considering Kem Aqua Plus, then you should look at SW HydroPlus. I’ve had excellent results with it on multiple projects. I’ve sprayed with with using an airless and AAA. It’s a little thicker than Kem Aqua Plus and isn’t as prone to sagging. The finish is also exceptionally hard.


Awesome thanks. I’ll check it out!





PNW Painter said:


> I also wanted to mention that any products containing isocyanates can be very harmful to your health. Read up on it if the product you choose contains them.



Ya am aware of the health consequences :-/ but sometimes the film harness warrants the full mask up risk....I’ve never been good at putting my health (including body mechanics) ahead of the futile wish of perfection


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## PPD

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Lenmar


**NVM- just scrolled down & see u already posted answers to this** 

What makes it your favorite? Any tips or recommendations for us?


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## mug

GF Enduro clear poly. I am going to try some EMtech one day soon though.


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## PPD

mug said:


> GF Enduro clear poly. I am going to try some EMtech one day soon though.



I’m a ride or die GF girl- use @ least 1 of their products nearly every day + its always nice to know they’ll be far below changing VOC limits in my area so the formulation will likely stay the same.

However, I personally feel there’s situations that EM8000 (or the others ppl have mentioned) perform better & give me peace of mind.


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## Tprice2193

Ppd let us know how your experiment comes out. I use the GF Enduro line for waterboure clears at the moment. Tried kem aqua and like GF better. Some of the others sound interesting. Always looking for better!


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## cocomonkeynuts

PPD said:


> **NVM- just scrolled down & see u already posted answers to this**
> 
> What makes it your favorite? Any tips or recommendations for us?



I havn't sprayed enough of it my self to give any tips for you except you don't need a very powerful sprayer to push this material., we used a 3 stage gravity fed titan, achieves a *very *hard finish.


My favorite things about lenmar:
1) Waterborne and no isocyanates. modifed urethane. Self sealing, Excellent adhesion, very hard finish. Also UV stable.

2) precatalyzed systems have a shorter shelf life, which sucks from a retailers point of view BUT being able to open the can and get to spraying without mechanical mixing or having a 30min sweat...
3) available via most BM dealer. Being able to buy product locally and not worry about running short on product is a huge sell point.
4) Dull rubbed best finish of all time.


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## Mr Smith

I just used 'Saman Floor Varnish' over BM Advance that cured a few weeks. There were several horizontal surfaces like the interior of Kitchen cabinets and a top of a kitchen storage thing that is used as a mini countertop. 

I applied two coats of the clear WB varnish and it didn't alter the medium gray color of the Advance paint. It looked great and is tough as nails. It leveled perfectly and was easy to brush.

A local Benjamin Moore store carries Saman Varnish instead of the "Stays Clear"

I used the satin sheen over the pearl Advance.

https://saman.ca/en/products/finishes-interior-woodwork/waterbased-varnish


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## finishesbykevyn

What are most people using these finishes on? Also how does the Stays Clear compare to any of these other products for a water base..?

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


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## cocomonkeynuts

finishesbykevyn said:


> What are most people using these finishes on? Also how does the Stays Clear compare to any of these other products for a water base..?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk



Stays clear is more of a traditional polyurethane that you can brush and roll. The products mentioned here are more like a lacquer. Fast dry and multiple thin coats. The pre and post catalyzed finishes will dry 'harder' than stays clear.


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## Redux

finishesbykevyn said:


> What are most people using these finishes on? Also how does the Stays Clear compare to any of these other products for a water base..?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk



2K Urethanes/CV/post & pre-cat finishes have much better chemical & water resistance than single component clear finishes such as Stays Clear. They generally have better taber abrasion ratings as well. Many of the over-the-counter single component clears have a much higher proportion of acrylic resin with just a dollop of urethane, providing less protection, and also take upwards a month or two to develop full cure. Many single component finishes with optional added cross-linker (not to be confused with a 2K finish) will provide a faster cure and a more thorough polymerization yielding better water and chemical resistance than without. Although single component technology has vastly improved, I wouldn't recommend the finishes for wet location millwork such as in bathrooms or kitchens. Many shy away from the higher tech finishes, but many of them are no more difficult to apply than products such as Stays Clear. The materials cost more, but the price is worth it. Sometimes it pays to step outside the comfort zone and bump it up a notch..."some" of the finishes can also be brush applied with the same ease as Stays Clear..


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## Local paint pro

has anyone tried milesi 2k poly? I hear really good things about it.. everyone that has tried it prefers it to kem aqua plus.. i know it isn't clear but since everyone is on the subject.. i was thinking about ordering 2 gallons just to mess around with.


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## Redux

Local paint pro said:


> has anyone tried milesi 2k poly? I hear really good things about it.. everyone that has tried it prefers it to kem aqua plus.. i know it isn't clear but since everyone is on the subject.. i was thinking about ordering 2 gallons just to mess around with.


The Milesi 2K urethanes along with Sirca would definitely provide the best protection of just about any clear finish I know of. Just a heads-up if you're considering it for exterior use...Milesi's preventive maintenance schedule "needs" to be adhered to...the products did fail after 1 1/2 years on one of my recent projects for what was a shop finished exterior mahogany window and door application/south elevations. The principles involved didn't heed my advice about following Milesi's recommended preventive maintenance schedule, resulting in a costly strip/refinish. I'm considering Milesi for a strip/refinish this spring of 150 exterior mahogany window and doors which I originally did 16 years ago. The thought of potential failure on exterior brightwork can be terrifying...


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## cocomonkeynuts

Alchemy Redux said:


> The Milesi 2K urethanes along with Sirca would definitely provide the best protection of just about any clear finish I know of. Just a heads-up if you're considering it for exterior use...Milesi's preventive maintenance schedule "needs" to be adhered to...the products did fail after 1 1/2 years on one of my recent projects for what was a shop finished exterior mahogany window and door application/south elevations. The principles involved didn't heed my advice about following Milesi's recommended preventive maintenance schedule, resulting in a costly strip/refinish. I'm considering Milesi for a strip/refinish this spring of 150 exterior mahogany window and doors which I originally did 16 years ago. The thought of potential failure on exterior brightwork can be terrifying...



That's exactly why I don't recommend cetol 123 anymore, along with PPG discontinuing colors and only manufacturing the low VOC version.


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## PPD

Local paint pro said:


> has anyone tried milesi 2k poly? I hear really good things about it.. everyone that has tried it prefers it to kem aqua plus.. i know it isn't clear but since everyone is on the subject.. i was thinking about ordering 2 gallons just to mess around with.



I’ve not heard anything about it but would love to hear how it goes after playin around! 

Alchemy prolly has some good thoughts on it...


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## PPD

Alchemy Redux said:


> The Milesi 2K urethanes along with Sirca would definitely provide the best protection of just about any clear finish I know of. Just a heads-up if you're considering it for exterior use...Milesi's preventive maintenance schedule "needs" to be adhered to...the products did fail after 1 1/2 years on one of my recent projects for what was a shop finished exterior mahogany window and door application/south elevations. The principles involved didn't heed my advice about following Milesi's recommended preventive maintenance schedule, resulting in a costly strip/refinish. I'm considering Milesi for a strip/refinish this spring of 150 exterior mahogany window and doors which I originally did 16 years ago. The thought of potential failure on exterior brightwork can be terrifying...




How consuming is the maintenance? Ever use it for interior work? Sounds like it would perform top notch!


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## Redux

PPD said:


> How consuming is the maintenance? Ever use it for interior work? Sounds like it would perform top notch!


Used the Milesi 2K PU line on window and door package interiors.

The exterior product used was Milesi Hydrocrom.

The maintenance is consuming. 

The maintenance schedule for the Hydrocrom is as follows:

"To renew and preserve the original beauty of the coating film on woodwork in good conditions, it is advisable to use XGC 35 Hydrocrom.
To reach an ideal result it is important to use the product at least once every
six months."


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## cocomonkeynuts

Alchemy Redux said:


> Used the Milesi 2K PU line on window and door package interiors.
> 
> The exterior product used was Milesi Hydrocrom.
> 
> The maintenance is consuming.
> 
> The maintenance schedule for the Hydrocrom is as follows:
> 
> "To renew and preserve the original beauty of the coating film on woodwork in good conditions, it is advisable to use XGC 35 Hydrocrom.
> *To reach an ideal result it is important to use the product at least once every
> ** six months."*


wow that's got to be a hard sell when a can of Behr lasts 10 years on a deck


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## Redux

cocomonkeynuts said:


> wow that's got to be a hard sell when a can of Behr lasts 10 years on a deck


It is a tough sell. I won’t do exterior brightwork unless the client commits to the recommended maintenance schedule whether it be a spar varnish, hard oil, etc. 

Preventive annual maintenance typically runs 15% of the initial finishing cost yet insures the units look factory fresh for years to come. 

A strip/refinish can typically run 300% of the original finishing cost. Most clear finishes look like a$$ after the fourth year if not maintained. That holds true for Sikkens, spar varnishes, or just about any clear exterior finish. 

In the long run, the cost/benefit of preventive maintenance pays, vs finishing and not maintaining. 

I typically get 15 +/- years on foundation colors and clear film finishes when maintained.

I’m not too familiar with the recommended maintenance schedules for the Sikkens alkyd clear finishes, thinking the older schedule called for a maintenance coating every 1.5 years on south elevations, but might have even shortened the period to bi-annual. I’ve seen that stuff not last even a year on south elevations with 100% exposure.

In my state, Varnish finish failure is exempt from warranty under the state’s general business law section for new construction. Varnish can be loosely interpreted as almost any clear finish, interior or exterior.


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