# Exterior Mural Advice



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

So, I checked this out today,and I need 14 more opinions,since I have never painted exterior brick wink,wink,Gough.

They want me to fill all the anchor holes,I am 99% sure the holes all occur in the mortar. With what should I fill them?

Also,the mural seems like it is holding well, little flaking, etc. They want me to freshen it up since it is all faded and I am wondering if it is not the way to go to just beef up the colors over top of the existing. I am thinking it really should be re-done from step one, as in scrape,prime,blah,blah... I don't think I want to trust what is there to hold for who knows how much longer.







.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Idk about the other stuff, but for the holes in the mortar this stuff works great

http://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/?gclid=CLyIu4KekcACFcZQ7AodoH4AsQ

If the holes are really deep, start with some foam backer rod. The texture of the caulk is just like mortar, and it paints well.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Any knife-grade elastomeric patching compound. SW makes a product called Con Seal and it works well. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

That looks like a fun project. What other alternative is there then to "beef" up the colors? It looks to me like that's exactly what it needs.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

CApainter said:


> That looks like a fun project. What other alternative is there then to "beef" up the colors? It looks to me like that's exactly what it needs.


Yeah, I guess I'm trying to figure out if it is better to start from primer, I have no idea what kind of paint is on there now. Or...not


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

If it is tight on there it will stay tight on there. The paint will fade but it won't let go. IMO anyhow. Brick/block holds paint well.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Oden said:


> If it is tight on there it will stay tight on there. The paint will fade but it won't let go. IMO anyhow. Brick/block holds paint well.


Okay, done. Thanks everyone.

Repaint direct on existing and spot prime where needed.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I thought you wanted 14 opinions and now you've stopped taking them at 7.

What kinda half-fast operation you running here, Lynn? :jester:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> I thought you wanted 14 opinions and now you've stopped taking them at 7.
> 
> What kinda half-fast operation you running here, Lynn? :jester:


She heard form the big guns that's all she needs :jester:


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

fauxlynn said:


> Yeah, I guess I'm trying to figure out if it is better to start from primer, I have no idea what kind of paint is on there now. Or...not


What paints do you typically use on an exterior mural? I would imagine it needs to be of an acrylic resin with UV protection. In other words could you use exterior house paint?

If so, I'm in line with Oden in that a cleaning and spot priming before applying the paint should be fine.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

slinger58 said:


> I thought you wanted 14 opinions and now you've stopped taking them at 7.
> 
> What kinda half-fast operation you running here, Lynn? :jester:



You don't want to see my full ast operation D.



cdpainting said:


> She heard form the big guns that's all she needs :jester:


I do like them big guns.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

CApainter said:


> What paints do you typically use on an exterior mural? I would imagine it needs to be of an acrylic resin with UV protection. In other words could you use exterior house paint?
> 
> If so, I'm in line with Oden in that a cleaning and spot priming before applying the paint should be fine.


Yes, exterior house paint, going to talk to my besties at Budekes tomorrow.
Thanks, Big Gun- sensai


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## michael tust (Mar 6, 2009)

I think I would fill the Holes with a Cement Patching Product that does not shrink.. Not a Latex or Elastomeric,. That way my patch is the same density as the surrounding areas.... And should also blend in well... 

I'm not saying that those are Wrong..... That's just how I would do it.


Michael Tust


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

michael tust said:


> I think I would fill the Holes with a Cement Patching Product that does not shrink.. Not a Latex or Elastomeric,. That way my patch is the same density as the surrounding areas.... And should also blend in well...
> 
> I'm not saying that those are Wrong..... That's just how I would do it.
> 
> ...


Oh, too late, you rang in after the buzzer....

JK,thanks, Michael. See? This is why I needed 14 opinions.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

michael tust said:


> I think I would fill the Holes with a Cement Patching Product that does not shrink.. Not a Latex or Elastomeric,. That way my patch is the same density as the surrounding areas.... And should also blend in well...
> 
> I'm not saying that those are Wrong..... That's just how I would do it.
> 
> ...


As a former block mason I have to agree with you. I would buy a small bucket of vinyl patch from one of the big box stores. It doesn't cost much and you just add water to the mix after putting into a small bucket. Use a margin trowel to mix it, apply it, and then push it in tight with your finger to ensure holes are filled. Dries grey. And just spot hit them with primer. 
Vinyl patch is commonly used to put a smooth finish on concrete facing after form boards have been removed, among other purposes. It doesn't shrink.

However, I have never used the suggested textured elastomeric caulkings so I can't vouch for them or say they aren't good suggestions.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

fauxlynn said:


> You don't want to see my full ast operation D.
> 
> 
> Well now, I might. :whistling2:


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

slinger58 said:


> fauxlynn said:
> 
> 
> > You don't want to see my full ast operation D.
> ...


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I would like to see you prime over the whole thing and start from a fresh surface I know you can do a better job than whats there now!


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Well Jason, I'm sure my muralist would agree by now, he pretty much re-did it, took way longer (to my detriment).I'll get a pic when I get the scaffold off the stairs.

I ended up going with reg mortar, turns out this part of the building was added in 1950.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

We went with Aura Exterior on this, and I ended up filling the holes with regular mortar. This part of the house was added in the 1950's. My daughter told me rule of thumb is the mortar should not be harder than the brick, makes sense. The mural guy says he isn't happy with it, but I think it looks great. Homeowner hasn't seen it yet.


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