# my process of new construction painting?



## ctw1287 (Oct 9, 2016)

painting new construction for the first time in and out! I used an loxon conditioner primer for walls and ceilings then came back and top coated with super paint flat sheen on walls and ceilings. exterior is the yellow primed hardie board siding, so should I top with two coats of A-100 or prime then top coat remember this is the new construction. also back rolling the hardie is that a must or is spraying the way to go.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Loxon the hardie with a roller then spray on the top coats. At least that is what we do. The factory primer is garbage.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I'm confused? You want to use Loxon Condition as an interior wall and ceiling primer? 


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I think you're wasting money using super paint on ceilings, with the exception of bathroom lids. Also, superpaint will probably have just a touch of sheen to it. Its better to use a dead flat. But yeah, why are you using loxon on interior walls?


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

It has a name that sounds like it does something useful?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Hell, it might be really badass primer for drywall. I've never used it at all, but I doubt its worth it costwise, unless you have an extra pallet of it sitting around. Of course, I dont think anything SW is worth the price.... Personally, I use Sealgrip on hardie without backrolling because its usually horizontal. Loxon is most likely a better primer for it though, but seal grip is a little cheaper, and I can use it for other things too. If it were full on concrete, I would go with a loxon or similar.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

On another note... A-100 outside and Superpaint on the inside?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Oh yeah, superpaint is exterior. I dont use SW, so i didnt catch that one.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

Do not backroll Hardie plank, it needs to be sprayed. When working large sides its important to know where your going next as you need to keep a wet edge to prevent flashing.

You would be lucky to get 2 coats of paint on a new construction home here. Most will use Sherwin Williams Duracraft ($85/5 gallon) and will put one coat on the body and one coat on trim. 

For inside your better off paying for PVA primer, spray and backroll. Followed by spraying your wall color, then tape and mask to spray your ceilings.

Once trim gets installed go ahead to mask and spray trim. Cut and roll second coat off wall color, then your done.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Woodland said:


> Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat. Masking and spraying on new construction - YouTube




In the PowerPoint you have it says caulking the inside corners and spraying and pulling tape before it dries. What is the longevity in that caulk and when does it crack? I'm not trying to be a dick just asking a question. It seems like that wouldn't last as long as a properly installed paper tape corner with nothing but paint in the corners


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

Woodland said:


> Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat. Masking and spraying on new construction - YouTube


dam that looks like a stressful way to paint


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Well since the OP hasn't responded to anyone yet, there are still some questions out there.

I'd spray if possible and if you run into issues just spray and backroll, but I think a good spray would do you just fine. 

As far as priming and type of paint. It all depends on your scope of work, is it a cheap project or a good quality long lasting (pays more) type of job? That will determine exactly what you need to do. 

Super Paint > A100. The color is going to last longer and it's a better product, but if the budget is low-end, then you use Duracraft or A100, maybe even a cheaper regional brand. Customer gets what they pay for/want. 

Good luck and post some pictures.


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## dirtyjeep01 (Dec 19, 2015)

jr.sr. painting said:


> In the PowerPoint you have it says caulking the inside corners and spraying and pulling tape before it dries. What is the longevity in that caulk and when does it crack? I'm not trying to be a dick just asking a question. It seems like that wouldn't last as long as a properly installed paper tape corner with nothing but paint in the corners
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I'll never paper my walls. Always have free hand cut the tops laser straight. A 8000 sqft house we cost me a lot of bucks in tape and labor just to tape.


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## dirtyjeep01 (Dec 19, 2015)

Woodland said:


> Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat. Masking and spraying on new construction - YouTube




Beauty work. And hey lot of people use that system in production. Nice work


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

dirtyjeep01 said:


> I'll never paper my walls. Always have free hand cut the tops laser straight. A 8000 sqft house we cost me a lot of bucks in tape and labor just to tape.




I'm not saying use paper and tape as in the hand masker approach. I'm asking why add caulk to an inside corner with paper drywall tape set in joint compound. It seems like the caulk would break outta the corner faster than the original drywall job would last. I'm with you on just the old fashioned way of using a good brush and lots of practice.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I'm not saying use paper and tape as in the hand masker approach. I'm asking why add caulk to an inside corner with paper drywall tape set in joint compound. It seems like the caulk would break outta the corner faster than the original drywall job would last. I'm with you on just the old fashioned way of using a good brush and lots of practice.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have you caulked any corners that have been mudded? It gives it a WAY better finished look, not to mention that it makes it much easier to cut a straight line when/if there are accent colors or what not involved. 

When I do NC we always caulk all the joints in the house, regardless if the mudders put a corner bead in them or not. It also helps sell it as a higher end paint job and worth it for the customer.

The caulking will probably outlast the mud if you use the right caulking. It's far more flexible than any drywall mud is and will stay in tact for a longer period of time. The cheap stuff will get you buy in a pinch but will end up losing its flexibility especially around windows and door units. Better off to spend the couple bucks more per tube and do it once.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Clear caulk*



jr.sr. painting said:


> I'm not saying use paper and tape as in the hand masker approach. I'm asking why add caulk to an inside corner with paper drywall tape set in joint compound. It seems like the caulk would break outta the corner faster than the original drywall job would last. I'm with you on just the old fashioned way of using a good brush and lots of practice.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I didn't see any explanation for using clear caulk in the video, but I have read it here at PT and I have used it myself once. My understanding of using clear caulk in this manner is to prevent any bleed through of the ceiling paint onto the walls. The clear caulk is put on very thinly and then wiped off as much as possible. This helps to make sure that the caulk completely seals any gaps under the tape through which ceiling paint could creep. The ceiling is then immediately sprayed and the tape removed before the clear caulk can dry and cause problems with tape removal.

The only purpose of the clear caulk is to seal the tape, not to be used as a substitute for corner drywall tape. At least that is my take on this.

futtyos


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

futtyos said:


> The only purpose of the clear caulk is to seal the tape, not to be used as a substitute for corner drywall tape. At least that is my take on this.
> 
> futtyos


Your close. Any caulking in general will be able to creep under the tape and seal it, essentially not allowing any paint to bleed through. Therefore when you peel it, you get a straight paint line. 

I use clear caulking almost exclusively. The reason being, is that the clear caulking dries transparent. So, what that means is if you are painting up against another color any caulking that gets on top will not show, once dry, because it becomes transparent. Whereas with white caulking now you have to deal with perfect cut-ins and getting it on another color, etc. 

So..with that being said, clear caulking is very beneficial and why we almost exclusively use it in lieu of the regular 'white' caulking. 

:wink::vs_cool:


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Well blow me down!*



woodcoyote said:


> Your close. Any caulking in general will be able to creep under the tape and seal it, essentially not allowing any paint to bleed through. Therefore when you peel it, you get a straight paint line.
> 
> I use clear caulking almost exclusively. The reason being, is that the clear caulking dries transparent. So, what that means is if you are painting up against another color any caulking that gets on top will not show, once dry, because it becomes transparent. Whereas with white caulking now you have to deal with perfect cut-ins and getting it on another color, etc.
> 
> ...


I guess I should have added that the clear caulk is merely an aid to helping the tape produce a straight line by sealing the edge of the tape.

What you say about using clear caulk is interesting. What brand of clear caulk are you using? Does it dry shiny, flat or somewhere in between? Do you follow any particular pattern of what to paint before or after caulking? Walls before or after caulking, trim before or after caulking, or something else?

futtyos


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Clear caulk takes forever to dry...


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

isnt it the tapers job to get straight corners


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I've used clear caulking quite a bit in the past to seal tape. Now, instead of using that technique, I usually seal the tape with paint. Say I've already painted trim, and need to cut in the wall color. I tape off the trim (usually yellow frog tape) and seal the tape with the trim paint (just enough to seal it). I don't have to worry about setting a speed record with clear caulk and painting in order to remove the tape before the caulk dries. Clear caulking definitely works, but if you wait too long to remove the tape (one man shows can experience this frequently), you run the risk of pulling some paint off, or you have to score the border with a blade first.

It doesn't take long to tape off and seal the tape with a brush. That being said, the last two interiors I've done I've free handed all the cut ins, and brushed all the trim. The only use of tape was on the sides of door trim, because I think it faster to brush them quickly, get a little trim paint on the walls, then tape them off before cutting in next to them for perfect lines. I painted all the baseboard last with no taping.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I would also ask the question about what you do with the caulk if it's not getting painted with either one of the finish colors (wall or ceiling)? I get that it's for a straight line and it dries clear but it's gonna appear as a different color under the caulk. I think that would be easily spotted by a picky customer. I know I would see it


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

jr.sr. painting said:


> In the PowerPoint you have it says caulking the inside corners and spraying and pulling tape before it dries. What is the longevity in that caulk and when does it crack? I'm not trying to be a dick just asking a question. It seems like that wouldn't last as long as a properly installed paper tape corner with nothing but paint in the corners


I believe that caulking over that masking line at the ceiling doesn't put a bead in the corner, just a tiny bit on the ceiling side against the masking tape. It's a small amount so longevity/durability is not a issue. Different than just caulking vertical corners od each room.

Note, I have covered walls with paper and plastic, or just tape and plastic many times, and never once have I (or the many companies I've worked for) used caulking to seal the tape. I get great results with the line. If I did do that method i would wipe the caulking tight enough that I would let it dry and the paint as well. 

Why struggle? Just mask and spray when ready, let it dry, etc.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

What is a good brand of clear caulk (Outside of solvent based like Lexell etc.)? Every time I use clear, its way too thin, and cracks out easier. I only use it when necessary. I'd rather use white, and cut in two colors, just because it works better, but I'd be interested in a good clear.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I would also ask the question about what you do with the caulk if it's not getting painted with either one of the finish colors (wall or ceiling)? I get that it's for a straight line and it dries clear but it's gonna appear as a different color under the caulk. I think that would be easily spotted by a picky customer. I know I would see it
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


the caulking gets painted completely if you paint afterwards. But like semiproJohn says, sealing with paint is quick and easy.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Woodco said:


> What is a good brand of clear caulk (Outside of solvent based like Lexell etc.)? Every time I use clear, its way too thin, and cracks out easier. I only use it when necessary. I'd rather use white, and cut in two colors, just because it works better, but I'd be interested in a good clear.


Allpro ProStretch or PPG Top Gun 400


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Shermax Clear. If it ever dries it will last forever.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> I tape off the trim (usually yellow frog tape) and seal the tape with the trim paint (just enough to seal it).


Have you tried sealing the tape prematurely with a damp rag or moist rag? 

The reason I say this is because Frog tape has pretty much the same chemical they put into baby diapers to prevent leakage. So when it comes in contact with water it gels over and creates a seal.

Rather than risking potential bleed through of the paint, I usually will do a quick wipe down with a moist rag to create the initial seal and then paint. 

If you haven't tried that, give it a shot and see. Obviously too much water isn't good either and you'll have to come back with a clean rag to remove excess, but give it a shot and see what yah think.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Woodco said:


> What is a good brand of clear caulk (Outside of solvent based like Lexell etc.)? Every time I use clear, its way too thin, and cracks out easier. I only use it when necessary. I'd rather use white, and cut in two colors, just because it works better, but I'd be interested in a good clear.


You need to use a high quality clear. You don't have to, but if you want to continue to have issues, you can choose the lesser kind.

950A Clear for interiors (especially if budget is an issue)

Shermax Clear - for pretty much anything you want to last a super long time and never have to really come back to. 


Honestly, white is a waste of time unless you actually plan on painting over the adjacent surface. Clear should really only be used if your not planning on painting the adjacent surface, hence the point and technique of using it.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

ridesarize said:


> Note, I have covered walls with paper and plastic, or just tape and plastic many times, and never once have I (or the many companies I've worked for) used caulking to seal the tape. I get great results with the line. If I did do that method i would wipe the caulking tight enough that I would let it dry and the paint as well.
> 
> Why struggle? Just mask and spray when ready, let it dry, etc.


Agreed. If your spraying you can get away with just tape and plastic, spray like normal and call it good.

For brush work like a lot of people do here, then I suggest the tape/caulk because their actually forcing the paint into the crevices of the texture, etc.

You can even get a decently straight line with just regular 2020 or cp66 (white) tape and spraying, without having to use frog or other treated tapes. 


So I agree with you on the spray and go, that's what we do unless it's a res-repaint and we have to roll and cut (which I hate).


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

futtyos said:


> What brand of clear caulk are you using? Does it dry shiny, flat or somewhere in between? Do you follow any particular pattern of what to paint before or after caulking? Walls before or after caulking, trim before or after caulking, or something else?
> 
> futtyos


I use either 950A clear for interiors or Shermax Clear for interior/exterior.

Difference? 950A is not as good, still quality, but doesn't cost as much. Shermax is an elastomeric sealant and can be used interior/exterior and has a higher class rating than most other caulking, hence its better and more money. 

Pattern: Just like painting. Tape off and caulk what you DON'T want to paint. Kinda like spraying, you mask off what your not trying to get paint on. 

Run your blue/white/yellow/green tape and put your bead of caulking down, wipe it. Let it tack a little, hit it with your paint and peel before the caulking really dries up and bridges on the tape. If it bridges, you have to razor the tape in order to not risk ripping the caulking out when pulling the tape.

If you run solo, just do a section of room at a time. Not big deal. Paint the walls or whatever, let it dry, then come back and run your tape/caulk here and there and paint/peel. If you run a crew you have a guy going around putting tape, another caulking and wiping, and another coming back around painting and peeling. Done.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

woodcoyote said:


> Have you tried sealing the tape prematurely with a damp rag or moist rag?
> 
> The reason I say this is because Frog tape has pretty much the same chemical they put into baby diapers to prevent leakage. So when it comes in contact with water it gels over and creates a seal.
> 
> ...


Yep. That's what I always do with the frog tape. Sometimes I still seal it with paint if the wall texture is quite rough and could allow for bleed through.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> Agreed. If your spraying you can get away with just tape and plastic, spray like normal and call it good.
> 
> For brush work like a lot of people do here, then I suggest the tape/caulk because their actually forcing the paint into the crevices of the texture, etc.
> 
> ...


I agree with you as well, different techniques being utilized. 

I use the tape and caulk technique a lot. In the last few months we did 2 big interiors that we taped off all wood trim with 1.5" 2090 (blue, my favorite tape ever), and caulked with cedar tone. One trimpack was already caulked to the wall so we did a mix of either cedartone caulking or cedartone arborcoat to seal the tape, lol.
At the other job, the trim was not caulked to the wall yet, so we held tape back and caulked it all in. 
On both jobs though, we wiped the tape of any bridged caulking, let it dry, and let 2 coats of paint dry and pulled tape at any point we wanted. No scoring needed. 

Currently I'm using the technique while caulking and masking the vinyl windows on a mdf millpack.
I mask the vinyl, holding tape back 1/16" or so. Caulk it wiping tape line clean. Doing a 3000 sqft house with 49 windows... I'll be here for a while so no way I could paint before the caulk dries.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

What is everyones thoughts on tape-caulking exterior windows.? Im talking new house, where the trim needs to be caulked to the window. If you mask the inside of the window, then caulk it, pain the trim and pull it, would that be a good idea? I wonder because the paint line on the window will be caulk underneath, and I worry that it may not adhere as well, since its not actually the paint stuck to the window.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Woodco said:


> What is everyones thoughts on tape-caulking exterior windows.? Im talking new house, where the trim needs to be caulked to the window. If you mask the inside of the window, then caulk it, pain the trim and pull it, would that be a good idea? I wonder because the paint line on the window will be caulk underneath, and I worry that it may not adhere as well, since its not actually the paint stuck to the window.


That method will work just fine as long as you hold your tape back just far enough in order to leave room for some caulking bead to stay behind and stick to the vinyl. Wipe any bridged caulking off of the tape and you can even let the caulking dry and one or two coats of paint dry before you even pull the tape with no problems at all. I've done it many times when our builder didn't want caulking to show on his vinyl windows. 
It's pretty easy and quick to paint that way too.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

We hold the tap back, caulk, fill, sand,etc. And just prior to primer, tighten the tape up. Keeps the glass clean. We do remodels though, not 2nd. There are no cleaners, that falls to yours truly. And I hate washing windows.

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

ridesarize said:


> That method will work just fine as long as you hold your tape back just far enough in order to leave room for some caulking bead to stay behind and stick to the vinyl. Wipe any bridged caulking off of the tape and you can even let the caulking dry and one or two coats of paint dry before you even pull the tape with no problems at all. I've done it many times when our builder didn't want caulking to show on his vinyl windows.
> It's pretty easy and quick to paint that way too.


Im talking about the longevity of it. I've done it before, I know full well how to do it, but I wonder if the weather will eventually make the caulk come unstuck at the vinyl years later. I have a gut feeling that it may not hold up as good as caulking first and painting on top of it, even though its easier to tape caulk.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*I have a question*



Woodco said:


> Im talking about the longevity of it. I've done it before, I know full well how to do it, but I wonder if the weather will eventually make the caulk come unstuck at the vinyl years later. I have a gut feeling that it may not hold up as good as caulking first and painting on top of it, even though its easier to tape caulk.


Woodco, I read your post #36 and posts 37 and 38. Please forgive me for my ignorance, but I am having trouble understanding or visualizing what you are talking about.

When you say "Im talking new house, where the trim needs to be caulked to the window", are you talking about caulking the area where the glass pane meets the window frame or are you talking about where the Complete window meets the siding on the house?

I don't do lots of exterior, but I would think that new windows would be weatherproof and that the only caulking that would be needed would be where the complete window, frame, glass and all, meets the siding.

I am visually challenged on what you and others are saying and am trying to understand and compare to what I have done in the past.

futtyos


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

futtyos said:


> Woodco, I read your post #36 and posts 37 and 38. Please forgive me for my ignorance, but I am having trouble understanding or visualizing what you are talking about.
> 
> When you say "Im talking new house, where the trim needs to be caulked to the window", are you talking about caulking the area where the glass pane meets the window frame or are you talking about where the Complete window meets the siding on the house?
> 
> ...


Kind of a bad example, but its the only picture I could find. You can see where the trim needs to be caulked to the window frame. So, one could caulk the window well before the mask and spray, OR... to kill two birds with one stone, one might mask the window in a way where they could caulk the crack along the tape, roll the trim paint on the trim, then pull the whole masking, thus avoiding any actual cut-in on the inside of the window trim.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Woodco said:


> Kind of a bad example, but its the only picture I could find. You can see where the trim needs to be caulked to the window frame. So, one could caulk the window well before the mask and spray, OR... to kill two birds with one stone, one might mask the window in a way where they could caulk the crack along the tape, roll the trim paint on the trim, then pull the whole masking, thus avoiding any actual cut-in on the inside of the window trim.


If it's exterior why didn't the siders caulk (it's nc, right)? It (quad or equivalent) should be dry and gassed off and should be part of their installation??? Typically its ready for paint....I thought you were talking about interior...drywall/sill to vinyl or liners to vinyl, my bad.

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Sometimes siders do it, sometimes its left for us painters. At least we will do it right.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

What about that right side of the header trim, that's what I want to know about.. did he cut it short or what? Lol.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

He's only a painter man. He don't cut no boards.


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## Wareaglerebel (Jun 26, 2017)

Here in bama unless you had a crew it would be hard to get the painting done before the caulk dries. Maybe if it was a climate controlled enviroment. I have used the wetrag and frog tape method with good results. I have heard of people doing the caulking method but between the frog tape or sealing with the under color paint I have usually gotten by.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Wareaglerebel said:


> Here in bama unless you had a crew it would be hard to get the painting done before the caulk dries. Maybe if it was a climate controlled enviroment. I have used the wetrag and frog tape method with good results. I have heard of people doing the caulking method but between the frog tape or sealing with the under color paint I have usually gotten by.


I dont see how. You only caulk it right before you paint it, and you pull it right away. 

If I wanted to say, caulk a cabinet to the wall, I'd tape the side of the cab, maybe cut in very close to the tape, and on the second coat, caulk it, wipe it, paint it, pull it. Done. Prefect line. Same thing with splitting colors on bullnose corners. You dont caulk it, till your ready to do it. I dont let it tack up, I do it right way.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Eagle eye!*



ridesarize said:


> What about that right side of the header trim, that's what I want to know about.. did he cut it short or what? Lol.


And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.

futtyos


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

futtyos said:


> And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.
> 
> futtyos


Yep, cool call too. Some ppl do ir, some don't.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Just did a house where a triple wide window needed a new piece of trim on the top and the upper bit was full length, but then the sides went all the way to the bottom so that the bottom bit was 4" shorter than the top on either side. Looked really odd.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

futtyos said:


> And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.
> 
> futtyos


Thats what they did on the house I'm working on now. It does look a little odd, but its better for water runoff. Of course, with Hardie, I dont think it would really matter.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Water seeks its own level*



Woodco said:


> Thats what they did on the house I'm working on now. It does look a little odd, but its better for water runoff. Of course, with Hardie, I dont think it would really matter.


I am of the mind to arrange the exterior of a structure so that rain will run off as efficiently as possible. Water seems to keep looking for any new path it can find and once it finds it, it may lead to damage, such as flooding basements or rotting something that wouldn't otherwise have too long of contact with water.

futtyos


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

Woodland said:


> Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat.


The biggest issue I see is with taping your line next a textured ceiling. If it is a smooth ceiling it would be easier to tape a straight line. It seems more time consuming than if you were to trim in with a brush. This assumes you are a quality brush man.


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