# aura semigloss vs. latex impervo



## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

whatta think guys,is the Aura worth the extra money? Im talking white against white for high end trim work.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

yes :yes:


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm partial to the wb impervo. Would rather use Murallo ultra if my customers herd of it.....


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Okay,im there! The latex impervo is pretty good, by keeping a fan handy i was able to keep the little drips under control today.But hey,whats another 12-15 bucks,in these times we better do some fancy painting thanks Neps.


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## Picky Painter (Oct 7, 2009)

I recently brushed a bunch of interior doors with aura trim paint(satin) tinted a dark charcoal grey. The coverage was amazing and the doors pretty much looked like they were sprayed. I would not hesitate to use it again, but this claim of it being self-priming is absolute hogwash. When I used it on the inside of the front door (metal door with factory white finish) with only a scuff and no preprime, it failed easily, it didn't seem to have any adhesion at all.


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Picky Painter said:


> I recently brushed a bunch of interior doors with aura trim paint(satin) tinted a dark charcoal grey. The coverage was amazing and the doors pretty much looked like they were sprayed. I would not hesitate to use it again, but this claim of it being self-priming is absolute hogwash. When I used it on the inside of the front door (metal door with factory white finish) with only a scuff and no preprime, it failed easily, it didn't seem to have any adhesion at all.


 Thanks picky,yes the self prime thing has always been sketchy,like back in the day with SW Woodscapes.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Just converted some old oil doors to Aura satin, used 123 as the adhesion coat. Works great. Only thing I would say is that it is probably a little less hard than WB imp.
You are talking about S Gloss- I thought only X aura was in S Gloss. Int just goes to satin, which is fairly comparable to oil imp.


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## SWGuy (Jun 26, 2009)

Sherwin has a new product this year. It is called Proclassic alkyd acrylic. Cleans up with water, under 50 voc and all of my guys that have tried it have loved it. I have layed it on at up to 12 mils with great results. Talk to your local rep for a free demo.


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

I will definately check it out SW, with all this voc stuff impacting paint manufacturing painters have to search more than ever for the best prouduct.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Rick the painter said:


> ...is the Aura worth the extra money?


Yes
Though the 'perv satin has a barely detectable (for the discerning eye "a slightly detectable") better "look" than satin Aura (IMO, at least when brushed on), the Aura does have the 'perv beat in durability (color retention, anti-burnishing, etc.) and well worth the x-tra cha-ching

For spraying, you'll need two really light coats with a FF tip not to goob up in the corners



Rick the painter said:


> Im talking white against white for high end trim work.


White-on-White Re-Paint where the extreme durability or ultra-low VOC of Aura is not desired or needed...eh...go with what you know

Off-hand, for me, this is a clear case of WB 'perv all the way


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

*Re: Aura Int. Semi*

Mentioned above, Aura Int. Semi- seems to out-perform Regal Semi- in more ways than the satin does (same with the Aura eggshell and matte)
Please don't take my "take" on Aura satin as a review on all the Aura line
I's just the Int. satin that I'm referring to here


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Thanks for you imput Slick.With the Aquaglo being what it is now i figured i would go with the wb impervo.That got me thinking why not go alllll the way with the Aura.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

We stopped using WB Impervo awhile ago its junk IMO.. I use Muralo mostly but have starting to use Aura Satin more and more on trim.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

For brushed trimwork, I find my self using WB Impervo, Graham Ceramic or Aura. I like them all and cannot complain too much about any of them for trim brush work.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> We stopped using WB Impervo awhile ago its junk IMO.. I use Muralo mostly but have starting to use Aura Satin more and more on trim.


The WB impervo can work ok for an acrylic, but definately has drawbacks. When it's all said and done it has an enamel quality that is acceptable for a waterbase, but obviously lacks durability of more toxic paints.

I personally do not use it very often though because I find it very exacting to work with.

The material keeps moving for a LONG time after you are done with the surface.

When brushing it can sag in places that most other paints will not if brushed with the same technique.

Which I find is always possible to alleviate by being more exacting with the millage of paint distribution, but that comes at a slight cost of slowing down a bit.

When spraying it has the finest line between not enough, and running that I have ever experienced.

Cranking the heat is a must.

-------------------

I have not tried the Aura on trim, but I have been open to the idea that it may work excellently seeing as how painting trim and painting walls require different qualities from paint. 

I will probably try the Aura for trim one day.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap unless I am spraying it always looks awesome, and it is really durable as well. In fact I had a customer complement how well a preschool bookshelf I did over 5 years ago has held up.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap unless I am spraying it always looks awesome, and it is really durable as well. In fact I had a customer complement how well a preschool bookshelf I did over 5 years ago has held up.


I would have no problems spraying it.. I have tried every type of brush and no way would a client of mine go for any rollered look.. I just feel there are better products in the same price range that are better..


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap



You brush paint on then backroll it?

I haven't heard of this method/finish.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have heard of some doing this. I will use a dense foam roller to touch up damaged sprayed items in new construction, since it comes closest to looking like a sprayed finish and blends well. Brushing for touch-ups usually shows more. Now, using the same logic, apply paint with a brush and then using the foam roller on smooth, flat parts should looks closest to spraying as well I guess.

I was talking to a remodeller we are going to do some work for coming up, and he worked with painters who did the apply with brush and then roll and he said it looked like it was sprayed. 

I have not tried it myself though.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> I have heard of some doing this. I will use a dense foam roller to touch up damaged sprayed items in new construction, since it comes closest to looking like a sprayed finish and blends well. Brushing for touch-ups usually shows more. Now, using the same logic, apply paint with a brush and then using the foam roller on smooth, flat parts should looks closest to spraying as well I guess.
> 
> I was talking to a remodeller we are going to do some work for coming up, and he worked with painters who did the apply with brush and then roll and he said it looked like it was sprayed.
> 
> I have not tried it myself though.


I agree if its the right roller.. I can see not just using a foam roller cuz it wouldn't get it on heavy enough... tends to dry roll..

I still think putting it on heavy with a roller and laying it off with a good brush is the best way IMO


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I still use a brush only. I could see the roller working when repainting a home with sprayed trim, no color change. But you are right, it does not put a very thick, wet coat on and I do not think it would work well for color changes or converting stained wood to painted.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

It gives an in between satin and matte finish. I have used it on small jobs like cabinets and bookshelves. I also use a velor fine finish nap to backroll for waterbore anything where it isn't reasonable to spray. Anything else tends to bubble I have found, and you have to find the sweet spot in set time before you go back into it to roll.

These methods work really well for doors too, and if there are only a hand full I will do this instead of spraying. Save me loads of time in set up and reinstalling them. 

Satin Emprevo works better to use a sponge nap, and if the paint is worked right you can't tell it wasn't sprayed at all. I agree the waterborn is harder to work with, but it will not yellow so that makes it a winner in my book.

Here are some pics of using this method. Results look a lot better than these pics, I am no photographer. :no:

New vanity
http://i47.tinypic.com/x4nbxh.png

Old cabinets that had been brushed previously
http://i46.tinypic.com/2i6ymbt.png

Close up
http://i47.tinypic.com/t88exk.png

Wainscot/ chair rail
http://i49.tinypic.com/2na4dvp.png

Refinish on an old desk was veneer with almost black finish, this is 8 coats of Ben Moore stays clear.

http://i50.tinypic.com/aet7ie.png
http://i49.tinypic.com/2vjrl20.png


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I was talking to a remodeller we are going to do some work for coming up, and he worked with painters who did the apply with brush and then roll and he said it looked like it was sprayed.


I have left a velour roller finish on metal doors and casings in commercial settings.

The thing I find particularly odd, is why brush it on in the first place rather than rolling it on. With the obvious exception of edges that cant be rolled.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> I have left a velour roller finish on metal doors and casings in commercial settings.
> 
> The thing I find particularly odd, is why brush it on in the first place rather than rolling it on. With the obvious exception of edges that cant be rolled.


IMO velour rollers don't get enough product on with the thin nap...


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> IMO velour rollers don't get enough product on with the thin nap...



What I meant was synthetic mohair, not velour. I don't think I have ever tried velour.

I almost never leave a roller finish any way.

I do mostly residential repaints, and we leave either a sprayed finish, or brushed finish.

I sometimes use a roller on doors and backbrush.

Sometimes I have thought if I could leave a finer film, it would work better for adhesion priming doors without backbrushing.

Maybe I should pick up a velour roller and try it out for that.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I'm partial to the wb impervo. Would rather use Murallo ultra if my customers herd of it.....


Agreed, GREAT product.


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