# Knotty pine Q fer ya



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I have a contractor friend who has a family cabin I'm going to work on soon. Some of it is old ( maybe 30 yrs) some brand new. Much is Knotty pine tongue in groove, and he wants it to look "rustic", not crude. Much of the TnG will be enameled. and he wants possibly "some" knot bleed through and texture of the wood to show.
I'm thinking a coat of BM oil underbody ( will let some bleed, more than coverstain, less than all H2O) finished with Aura satin. 

I'm actually waiting for a call back right now to discuss with him. Any of you smarties have any good input? Bring it!

Fer instance- new bath:


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Why paint it? If he wants a rustic look, stain it!


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## brushmonkey (Jan 4, 2010)

That's pretty nice looking wood... your going to paint it? Why not use a high quality brand like Sikkins or comparable semi-transparent or semi-solid or stain with a satin clearcoat? (many colors) You'll keep the grain/rustic look :yes:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

wash or milk paint


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## wje (Apr 11, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> wash or milk paint


We have done a few whitewash jobs, not only were the knots still somewhat visible, so were some of the nice wood grains.

I think if you have any knot bleed through on a fully painted surface, it just looks like a bad paint job.

Another option would be to antique it all. that would get costly though.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

The idea of enamel was not mine- so stain isn't the look he wants. 
I have never used milk paint- don't even know who would carry it- but it sounds interesting. 
A wash with thinned enamel or a whitewash oil stain is something I've done in the past, but the yellowing of oil was something i was trying to steer away from.
Originally when we started talking, it was complete enamel, now he threw in the " a little bleed through for the semi rustic look" thing...
Going to make a couple of samples. If I knew more about milk paint, might give that a shot on a board. 
(PS- I hate sikkens...)


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Look up old-village.com. They carry a large line of what you are needing for the look you are trying for. Have used their products and very happy with the results.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Doing some searches with milk paint-- Hmm- sounds like it might be the cat's pajamas.. Top with acrylic clear coat? Probably I'll be brushing.

Anyone with experience with it have any app tips? Sounds like it dries fast and brushy. Sand lightly between coats for a smooth finish ( da) .


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## i painter (Mar 14, 2010)

My suggestion - Distress it, pickle it, seal it, finish sand it, ink it (antique it) and top it with a flat varnish.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I would use acrylic or latex instead of oil if he wants bleed. I agree with i painter pickling might be the best solution.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

A coat of the milk paint seems like a sort of pickling , I think I found a source nearby that I can try a sample. 

Thanks for the suggestions, I've got a week to make some samples. Its about 3 hours away and far from a paint store, so I have to go prepared. Probably be staying there for over a week, working vacation!


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## Terdel (May 8, 2010)

I'm new to the game. What's this "pickling" you guys are talking about?


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

I've used milk paint on some unfinished pine benchs. Came out really nice...a nice look. Also very friendly as in "green" (hate using that word, but) and it really locks on to wood. Old Fashion Milk Paint and the Real Milk Paint I think are the names of the two biggest. Should keep left over in fridge if you have to come back the next day.....otherwise the casein gets a little sour.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

I like naughty pine


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Roadog said:


> I've used milk paint on some unfinished pine benchs. Came out really nice...a nice look. Also very friendly as in "green" (hate using that word, but) and it really locks on to wood. Old Fashion Milk Paint and the Real Milk Paint I think are the names of the two biggest. Should keep left over in fridge if you have to come back the next day.....otherwise the casein gets a little sour.


We used Old Fashioned on some new pine shaker style built ins recently and I was really impressed with it...once I got over the initial mix and stir where it felt like batter.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Roadie and vermont- ( and anyone else who has used the stuff) - I got a small bag of "old Fashioned" at a woodworkers store today and am about to go play with it- 
Am hoping I can run it semi thin to be like a heavy pickling, and then sand smooth and top with maybe Zar's waterborne clear. Get it there with those 2 coats- sound reasonable?


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

I've had success doing just that! I like that Zar waterborne clear too!


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## ddemair (Nov 3, 2008)

I've never used milk paint, so my first thought was in a slightly different vein... adding enough glaze to the desired paint color to create the appropriate transparency.

It might look great or maybe it just might look like a really bad paint job.


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## Charisb (Jun 9, 2009)

*Mildewcide*

Hey - just a thought: in the bathroom or anywhere else where he's gonna get a fair amount of humidity, you might consider adding in an additional mildewcide - if you weren't already planning on it. Lots of 'em on the market. We like Stay Clean by Walla Walla Environmental. Keeps that surface mold and mildew at bay......


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