# NC Trim Airless Technique...



## KEEGS (Nov 26, 2009)

This is one of those tough questions to ask the board...mainly because after reviewing many posts from the archives, I just could not find what I was looking for, even though the topic has been hammered out in many different ways. So, I am dipping my toe into that pool of lukewarm water and throwing it out there...to those board members who spray trim in NC, how do you move from room to room and in what order do you spray windows-door jambs-base, etc? 

 The small problem I experienced was that my neck base was nasty rough when I checked my job this morning after spraying WB Satin Impervo on a small addition yesterday. Doors looked fantastic, window casings and jambs were sweet, door jambs were good, my built-in looked insane---but those baseboards...were about as embarrasing as it gets. oddly enough, some were rough and some were okay. I was using My Titan, dialed down sweet just a pinch past fingers-I don't get it? I am guessing overspray, but how do you avoid that. and if it was overspray, what gives? Right in the middle of the addition I had shelving and door components set up on horses and running 16' 2x4's for finish as well...and they were lying flat...and I sprayed them last, and they dried perfectly.

 FYI, tried the "Hingemags" after reading about them here on PT-pretty sweet, but I am feeling like the base problem and spraying the doors in place may be intertwined somehow? I swear to the board, if my Father ever saw that neck base mess he would regret giving me the business. Now, for some background-I have plenty of time working with the airless; Years of priming NC and finishing ceilings etc. We always spray our doors-we remove them and set them up in the traditional easy to spray accordian style. In the past we have done all other trim with brush in hand--never sprayed trim that much. I am comfortable spraying with Graco FFT's, and I have sprayed many kitchens, and built-ins with both Alkyd and WB products.

 I feel like I may be missing something embarrasingly obvious...so before you drop the hammer, understand that what I am looking for is quite simply the knowledge to provide the very best job I can for what I believe to be, some pretty awesome customers. I have said it before, and now I will part with it...PT has become one of the best tool's in the box. As I move through the archives reading post after post, I am reminded time and again, why I love what I do. Thanks in "Advance" (BM humor) for any assistance.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Did you shop vac the house as in under base and jambs and come out a couple feet of the perimeter?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

It sounds like overspray from doing the doors ( I'm assuming you did last as you backed out of the room ).

Or you did not vacuum the floors well enough to spray the base. I'm not a big fan of shooting base for a final coat. I'll do it for a first but never for a final.


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## KEEGS (Nov 26, 2009)

Definitely vaccumed, and there were unfinished oak floors so we masked and had clean edges 12" out from base. The doors could be the culprit? Thought the hinge mag would be a home run, but the overspray from doors seems to be an issue. Also, maybe just leave the base, and do it like always-by hand...


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

We typically get all the doors in one or two rooms. In this photo we would spray the doors, then fireplace, then window sills, then base last. But, depending on the paint and the overspray it produces, this could be done randomly too. I sprayed 10 gallons of KILZ Pro-X 110 on ceilings yesterday with a 515 and no overspray and barely a dusting on me. Ive sprayed a single door (1 pint) and had more overspray fill a room than 110 did with 10 gallons. So, it sort of depends on your product but sounds like you did your best on maintaining a nice pattern just outside of tailing.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Lets say you have a bedroom but not spraying the window. Enter the room with door against the right wall. I will spray the base down to the window wall, across the window wall then back to the front of the room then over the bifold casing then down the base and up the door entrance and walk out then finish the other half of the door entrance.

My gun is angled slightly forward as I spray from door entrance to window wall. In other words the spray pattern is not directly facing the base. This moves the blowout always forward as you round the room, essentially clearing any debris that may have been missed. If you spray directly into the base that creates blowout in both directions.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Could very well be dryspray, the overspray falling and drying, and then getting kicked up by your sprayer. Alkyd paints are easier in that respect as the overspray lands and stays tacky, doesnt blow around. We did a job last summer shooting ppg breakthrough and after shooting one side of the accordion door setup, we had to stop, vac up the entire room, and shoot the other side, as the overspray dried almost instantly and created a dusty mess.

WB impervo won't dry as fast as breakthrough, but it is still WB so prone to quicker dusty conditions.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

I always do finish in a production line style. I know it's a PITA to do it this way but it keeps your dust control down to a minimum.

The only thing that happens from doing it this way is dragging the hose in and out more than once and it can effect your production rate if you let it.

Cover your base and do it last, when spraying all the items it produces a lot of dust that settles slowly during the day. Or just leave it primed and sand, dust later.

Cabinets first, utilizing the most effect tip for this.
Like JP said round up your doors into 1 or 2 rooms. Spray your jambs and be sure to wipe the window sills before you do the windows.

Again utilizing the best tip for jambs and window casing.

You may then get into the the room or rooms that have your doors, again utilizing the most effective tip for them.

After cabinets, jambs, windows and doors are complete, uncover your base vac, mask and spray your base with the tip that best fits the job.
If dust becomes an issue you may have to brush.

You may use 2 or 3 different tips depending on
size of items and varying substrates.

A 312 and 414 would be a example of 2 tips you could use. AAA is great for finish and you can do a last minute dust with your first stage trigger pull. Sincerely Rob


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

This maybe a little off topic but here goes. I was on the crew that did the Bellagio and hands down the most elaborate mill work was the spa.

In Ocean's 11 you can see the 1 of a kind Radius doors, jambs and windows when Julia Roberts walks down from the spa to the conservatory.

When we did the base we did it in 2 passes.
First the north wall base and south wall base. Second the east wall base and west wall base this insures no over spray on the other.

Yes PITA to drag the hose twice but near perfection.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

KEEGS said:


> This is one of those tough questions to ask the board...mainly because after reviewing many posts from the archives, I just could not find what I was looking for, even though the topic has been hammered out in many different ways. So, I am dipping my toe into that pool of lukewarm water and throwing it out there...to those board members who spray trim in NC, how do you move from room to room and in what order do you spray windows-door jambs-base, etc? The small problem I experienced was that my neck base was nasty rough when I checked my job this morning after spraying WB Satin Impervo on a small addition yesterday. Doors looked fantastic, window casings and jambs were sweet, door jambs were good, my built-in looked insane---but those baseboards...were about as embarrasing as it gets. oddly enough, some were rough and some were okay. I was using My Titan, dialed down sweet just a pinch past fingers-I don't get it? I am guessing overspray, but how do you avoid that. and if it was overspray, what gives? Right in the middle of the addition I had shelving and door components set up on horses and running 16' 2x4's for finish as well...and they were lying flat...and I sprayed them last, and they dried perfectly. And FYI, tried the "Hingemags" after reading about them here on PT-pretty sweet, but I am feeling like the base problem and spraying the doors in place may be intertwined somehow? I swear to the board, if my Father ever saw that neck base mess he would regret giving me the business. Now, for some background-I have plenty of time working with the airless; Years of priming NC and finishing ceilings etc. We always spray our doors-we remove them and set them up in the traditional easy to spray accordian style. In the past we have done all other trim with brush in hand--never sprayed trim that much. I am comfortable spraying with Graco FFT's, and I have sprayed many kitchens, and built-ins with both Alkyd and WB products. I feel like I may be missing something embarrasingly obvious...so before you drop the hammer, understand that what I am looking for is quite simply the knowledge to provide the very best job I can for what I believe to be, some pretty awesome customers. I have said it before, and now I will part with it...PT has become one of the best tool's in the box. As I move through the archives reading post after post, I am reminded time and again, why I love what I do. Thanks in "Advance" (BM humor) for any assistance.


Your post is hard to read.

Try paragraphs next time please.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

The NC that we do they never put the base on til very last, so we don't have to worry about spraying it - unless carpet is going in the room, then base is installed before we get there but we don't spray it. do everything else then sponge the base and brush and mini roll. Doors are done as above, in separate roomm usually the attached garage, pinned in accordion style. we vac everything and lay 36" builders paper before setting the doors up for spray, start spraying at the far end and work backwards to avoid hose interference with the doors.


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## KEEGS (Nov 26, 2009)

Thanks TJ..problem solved.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

If its the top third of base its from overspray. If its bottom third of baseboard thats rough then its from debris from floor flying up onto wet base. Try mopping or sponging the floor wet up against the baseboards. A lightly wet floor will prevent dust and debris from flying up while spraying.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Wet with water is what I meant.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

How do you hold the gun when spraying base? Gun horizontal to base or gun held vertical and turn the guard?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Hold the gun upside down verticle.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> Hold the gun upside down verticle.


same.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> same.[/QUOTE
> 
> Gun position half way between my knee and ankle with a slight bend at the waist.


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## KEEGS (Nov 26, 2009)

Thanks for all of the great feedback. I Definitely feel that with a few adjustments in technique and set up I will see quality results. Always learning in this business (and keeping an open mind) ...especially if you want to remain successful. At least that's what I believe. Thanks again


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Your problem seems to be from spraying items in the middle of the room after you had already sprayed the base boards.

I would think the sequence of spraying trim in a room would be: 

-High trim
-Middle of room items
-Window and door casings
-Base boards on your way out (save the exit door casing for last)

You may also have your pressure too high. The AAA's have a lot less overspray and should eliminate dusting.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I think some people spray the base boards first because they think it locks in all of the debris. That's why it's important to vacuum, which is a b!tch if you're lazy like me.

I was on this one NC where the painting contractor (more like a glorified sider jobber) removed the dust through out the two story house by blowing it down with his shop vac, like a leaf blower rather then a vacuum. I couldn't believe it! There was sh!t flying every where! I think that trim turned out a lot grainier then it needed to be.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

We go in and vac before the base goes in, and again after base installed, that way the drywall dust does not get trapped behind base to blow back when being sprayed.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

In addition to the vacuuming, we use a compressor to blow out debris from under the base before priming trim.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Paint Talk


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Same as Dean, but I use the electric leaf blower. Once all the dust settles we vac again.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I spray the floor around the base with water. I use the pump or a Hudson sprayer.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Oden said:


> I spray the floor around the base with water. I use the pump or a Hudson sprayer.


Customer's love when you wet their floors or sub floor with water. 

Water, wood and latex paint all work well together.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Customer's love when you wet their floors or sub floor with water.
> 
> Water, wood and latex paint all work well together.


Plan B. Hire a pro?


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Spraying fine finish is a art and science in progress.

Depending on GC and finish carpentry will dictate and determine the way in which you will
tackle your finishing schedule.

All members that have been contributing to this thread I thank you.

The true Sprayman knows when to set down the gun, and pickup a brush and roller.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

KEEGS said:


> Definitely vaccumed, and there were unfinished oak floors so we masked and had clean edges 12" out from base. The doors could be the culprit? Thought the hinge mag would be a home run, but the overspray from doors seems to be an issue. Also, maybe just leave the base, and do it like always-by hand...


Unfinished oak floors? Whoops! Missed it.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

robladd said:


> Spraying fine finish is a art and science in progress.
> 
> Depending on GC and finish carpentry will dictate and determine the way in which you will
> tackle your finishing schedule.
> ...


ain't that the truth! some people figure a spray gun solves all painting problems


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

I use the turbine from my hvlp to blow windows, doors, base etc. and then vacuum. I find with the vacuum alone you don't get everything out, the pressure from blowing simulates what would happen with an airless.
I like to use a 210ff or 212ff tip depending on the product and the lowest possible pressure that atomizes the paint and provides a solid spray fan.
I sand pre primed doors and then prime them again, and shoot two coats of finish also sanding between costs. Turns out like glass:thumbsup:


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