# ipe deck staining



## It's the painter (Nov 19, 2009)

Hi everyone I was set with a deck project today and looking for info i bumb into P.T .It 's Ipe wood and it's been in the elements for about the last four months out here in Chicago.Never stained Ipe and i'm looking for info on how to get it to look like it's just been soaked with water and on how it's suppose to be done to prep it.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

IPE is tricky to stain, and will need to be maintained. The wood is incredibly dense and the stains/sealers dont tend to hold up as well as on the softer woods.

Lightly sand the boards prior to staining, do not use any grit finer than 80. Wipe the boards with laquer thinner just before you apply the stain.


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## BMDealer (Jun 2, 2008)

For a finish look into Sikkens SRD either Natural or Natural Light. You can get sample cans for trial....Both give IPE a wet look but the Natural give it a little more tone.


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## It's the painter (Nov 19, 2009)

*thanks for the info fellas.but theres about 50grand invested into this deck and and the last thing i need is to screw it up. so i think i'm going to need some more help.i'm not sure on all the steps and problems that can occur.I'm looking for a product that will not leave a shinny finish alomst looking like stain wood with out the varnish.but before all this should i use a solution to wash the deck and if so before i sand and clean it with laquer thinner and if i don't do it this year cause of the weather should i cover it up from the rain and snow(its been getting rain on)i'm not sure how it does in the weather.:blink:*


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

Here is a thread you may find helpful. It falls apart at the end (as many do) but it also contains some good info. http://www.painttalk.com/f2/staining-exotic-hardwoods-2619/?highlight=deck+staining Prep is key. If you don't have a system for prepping the deck you will have no chance at getting a stain to hold up.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

Here is BM Hardwood Finish "Mahogany" on mahogany 12 months after application. It looks as good as the day I did it. It is covered but the south side gets quite a bit of sun, and it is N. MI. They had the decks (2300 sq ft) done twice before by two different contractors and the decks failed in 3 months.


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## It's the painter (Nov 19, 2009)

So you're recomending b.m. On the wood closer to the wall it looks glossier,and what about the woodzotic.any advice on the prep.


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## It's the painter (Nov 19, 2009)

By the way sweet site.never knew of it.feeling like i've been missing out.


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## ChuckHalterman (Sep 15, 2009)

Ipe, or any of those exotic hardwoods that DO NOT FLOAT are a contractors nightmare. I sell paint for a living, and have not found a product that last long enough to satisfy a customer. They purchase the material seeing the beautiful, deep color and expect it to remain that way! It will fade and gray, regardless of what is done. Make sure this is the first thing your customer understands. If they expect more, I personally would pass.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

It's the painter said:


> So you're recomending b.m. On the wood closer to the wall it looks glossier,and what about the woodzotic.any advice on the prep.



It's worked for me on mahogany. Haven't used woodzotic. I think your seeing the shadow of the covered porch. It is even in appearance. 

Here is an up close the day we stained.


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## It's the painter (Nov 19, 2009)

paintofish that looks good.any info on mesmers product


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

None on Mesmers. Get your prep right!! Read this forum and use the search option to read other posts.


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## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

The main contractor I do work for puts Ipe decks on all there homes. The best products I have found is made by Penofin. They have cleaning and brightening products that work awesome!! 
I used Messmer's product on a deck earlier this summer that is about 3,000 sq. ft. and it is already starting to turn really dark. I heard that they are having problems with that exactly happening. So I will be redoing that deck next year with another product. 
I ended up doing another deck about 2 months ago with Flood hardwood transparent waterborne and its held up very well so far. It didn't go on as easy as the oils but it did turn out very nice. I had to put on two coats and it works best with a pump sprayer and a foam pad to work it in the wood. The first coat dries really fast and uneven but the second coat evens it all out.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

I just did a coat of sikkens dek on a t&g fir deck and that stuff was great to work with. Flowed nice, zero lap marks. Good stuff so far.


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## aout (Nov 27, 2009)

Has anyone used "one time wood protector"? I have a 5 year old ipe deck that was never trested and the clients want to make it look new again.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Sand, and use penofin. Nothing is going to last more than a year. At least with penofin, after the initial application you can just pressure wash and re-apply.

http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml

Make the customer aware of the maintenence, and get them on a schedule. Think repeat sales!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

bikerboy said:


> Sand, and use penofin. Nothing is going to last more than a year. At least with penofin, after the initial application you can just pressure wash and re-apply.
> 
> http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml
> 
> Make the customer aware of the maintenence, and get them on a schedule. Think repeat sales!


I have to disagree with Penofin. It is a terrible product ( at least the one i'm familiar with ) Many people have used it on Cedar and PT decks, it turns almost black very quickly and tends to grow a lot of mildew.

I like Sikkens SRD as stated above....havent tried the Ben Moore product ( :thumbup: even though i'm a dealer, may give it a whirl in the spring ) TWP is also a good product. IPE is one of those woods that will need to be maintained, it is extremely dense and hard for products to penetrate. If they are expecting any longevity over a year or two......probably not gonna happen.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Hard to coat those dense, oily, woods
Peno works, though it's not my preference
I don't care for the look, but mostly _maint. coats_ can be a bear prep and look (blotchy)-wise, even with good prep and app

Traditionally I might have suggested Cabot Aussie Timber Oil, but at this point the new reformulation is a sticky wicket...almost literally; we've had numerous properly applied projects this summer stay tacky for weeks...and some for (literally) months
Perhaps this wouldn't be an issue in a region where less than 90% humidity is considered a "dry day", but being in a region with that type of environment, I can't say really
However, I also hesitate to recommend it due to my experience (with the new formulation)

My preference and recommendation (at this point) would be the Sikkens SRD
Not a "no-brainer" to apply (but not that tough really), at least it looks great, lasts long (-er than the rest), is incredibly mold/mildew resistant, and dries fast -almost too fast...but hey it beats a sticky deck for 12 weeks (see: Cabot Aussie above)

The SRD has some tint, there's a reason for that
If you want the least amount of tint, go with the recommendations previously posted (lightly colored "transparent")
It will hardly be noticed...in fact may (will) help "even out" the look of the wood
It will probably make the deck look better
The tint is there for, and needed for, UV protection

A "True Clear" may look great upon application (the "Wet Look"), but will allow sun damage to happen naturally, and that "Wet Look" will soon become a "Gray/Weathered Look" (or that "Blonde Look" like on some mahogany)
Yes, it will still have water protection, and won't rot (if maintained)...but it will look "weathered" as time goes by
Thus requiring massive prep to re-coat and look like new and "Wet"
(But yes, less if they are truly looking for a weathered look)

If a "True Clear" is really and truely desired (after reading/hearing this), I'd recommend the Wolman's Raincoat oil (the water-based would be next to useless on such a a dense, oily, wood)
I've had great success with that on decks where the customer wanted water protection, but liked the Weathered Look, and didn't mind just a washing and re-coat to keep the deck from rotting


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## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

Here is a deck I did about 2 1/2 months ago with Penofin deck cleaners. I ended up using Flood CWF® HARDWOODS for the final finish. I put on 2 coats and it went on a little tough the first coat but the second coat I used a garden sprayer and a stain pad to apply it and it worked alot easier.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

painttofish said:


> Here is BM Hardwood Finish "Mahogany" on mahogany 12 months after application. It looks as good as the day I did it. It is covered but the south side gets quite a bit of sun, and it is N. MI. They had the decks (2300 sq ft) done twice before by two different contractors and the decks failed in 3 months.


Firstly - that looks like ipe, secondly any covered deck is going to get about twice the normal life of an uncovered deck.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

I use Sikkens on everything but ipe. It does not last long and recoats are a lot of work. You have to strip versus applying a maintenence coat. 

Never had a problem with Penofin turing black on ipe.

I'd try the Cabot's if I could not get Penofin. 

Sikkens imho is not the best product for ipe.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> Firstly - that looks like ipe, secondly any covered deck is going to get about twice the normal life of an uncovered deck.



It is Mahogany. I understand a covered deck will last longer than an exposed. I am happy with the product described above on Mahogany.:thumbsup:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

painttofish said:


> It is Mahogany. I understand a covered deck will last longer than an exposed. I am happy with the product described above on Mahogany.:thumbsup:


Do you mind taking pictures of the steps - they're not covered by a roof, I am interested how they held up?


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> Do you mind taking pictures of the steps - they're not covered by a roof, I am interested how they held up?



I am actually working nearby this week. It is a customer who summers here but live in Switzerland the rest of the year:whistling2: so I can swing by and take a peek.


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