# Solid Stain on Cedar Siding



## Researcher (Aug 8, 2010)

I have read a number of your posts on PaintTalk.com regarding this subject. However, I still not clear on the best paint system to use for the application.

A 22 year old house is clad and trimmed in smooth, clear cedar. The cedar is not back primed. During the first 10 years of its life, the house was stained twice with an Olympic solid oil stain. In 2001 the siding was sanded to almost bare cedar and painted with a BM oil-based primer, followed by (2) coats of Pratt & Lambert latex. The finish started to blister before the painter was off site. Over the years, the paint system continued to fail with peeling and moisture-filled blisters.

Last October, a west-facing wall was stripped by planing and stained with (1) coat of Sikkens Rubbol Siding Finish (RSF). The stain is still tight without any sign of peeling and blistering. However, white chalking has occurred over some nails and some vertical joints.

Currently, the house is being stripped back to clear cedar at a huge expense. Sikkens has recommended sanding the siding with 100 grit sandpaper and priming the nails with any stain-blocking primer and two coats of RSF. Cabot recommend priming the whole house with Problem-Solver Primer plus (2) coats of Solid Acrylic Siding Stain. 

Tannin bleed has not been a problem in the past. However, some of the renovations will require new siding. What is the best paint system to use for this application?

Thank you in advance for a response.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Is this your home? Are you looking for DIY or just trying to find out if the people you hired know what they are doing?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I like SW woodscapes, and think for the money its the best product out there. I am usually a BM guy too so that is saying a lot. No need to prime it, just tow coats of finish. If any bleed occurs it will most likely be a few knots, and you can spot them with oil.

Check this thread out there are some pics of a 5 year old job of mine I washed last month. You can thank bikerboy for the great thread title.  

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/thank-you-paint-idiots-9796/index2/


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Why, in God's name, would you strip back to bare wood and continue to fight what will happen every time? Are you very opposed to a semi-transparent stain? I could recommend a semi-solid oil that will give you more of an opaque look and still be maintenance and/or strip friendly and would last you 6 yrs+. 

There is a route to lock moisture out of the shingles (which is your recurring problem). You would be, in effect, petrifying the cedar before applying your topcoats.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Researcher said:


> I have read a number of your posts on PaintTalk.com regarding this subject. However, I still not clear on the best paint system to use for the application.
> 
> A 22 year old house is clad and trimmed in smooth, clear cedar. The cedar is not back primed. During the first 10 years of its life, the house was stained twice with an Olympic solid oil stain. In 2001 the siding was sanded to almost bare cedar and painted with a BM oil-based primer, followed by (2) coats of Pratt & Lambert latex. The finish started to blister before the painter was off site. Over the years, the paint system continued to fail with peeling and moisture-filled blisters.
> 
> ...


This sound like an old house to me that is not properly vented, am I wrong on the age?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

OK so I missed the fact it was build in 88, Its still most likely a venting problem or the cedar was not dry enough before staining, plus it's a smooth cedar that has not enough tooth to hold the stain.You have a peeler.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

In my experience any cedar primed wholly with oil fails faster than it should. The oil doesn't flex like latex/acrylic primers do, instead they crack which causes it to fail.


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## poet-1 (Mar 27, 2008)

Since the cedar is not backprimed, I'd use all latex/acrylic products --typically 1 primer and 2 topcoats per Cabot's recommendations. Cabot Problem-Solver acrylic primer has stain/tannin blocking additives in it, and Cabot ProVT solid stain is a good product too. 

Remove all sanding dust (or neutralize the chemical stripper), and check the wood's moisture content prior to priming (15% or less should be ok).


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I say we throw up some t-111 and call it good.


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