# Gap between wall and ceiling, drywall work around quesstion



## DiscountHousePainter (Jul 8, 2012)

Thought I'd post some pics and see what your guys' thoughts on this are. I bought a house for my fiance and I and it has all new drywall throughout but whoever hung it left me with a huge mess and alot of fixing to do. I typically stay away from doing too much drywall work so this isn't my area of expertise. Anyways, what I have is areas where the wall isn't flush with the ceiling and theres gaps a little less than 1/4" (1st. pic). My solution for these area is I'm taking mesh tape and sticking half of it in the gap and the other half on the wall then mudding it (2nd. pic) then while the muds still wet im going over it with the paper tape and finishing as you would a normal corner (3rd. pic). Just thought I'd post this on here and see if anyone knows a better way or to see if there is anything wrong with me doing it this way before I continue. I did an area the other day and sanded it down today and did my final coat of mud and it seems to be working well but thought I'd run it by on here to see what you guys think? Thanks for any input!


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## johnny949 (Apr 13, 2012)

Maybe some backer rod and a fat bead of caulking for hat first pic
?


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## DiscountHousePainter (Jul 8, 2012)

Thanks! I hadn't thought about backer rod thats a good idea. I had considered caulking but some of the gap areas are rather large but if I find my bulk gun that could work. I'm considering doing the rest as I am using the fiber tape and mud then go over top of it with the joint tape but kinda want to make sure theres no reasons I haven't thought of that would make that a big no no. Thanks again for the reply Johnnie949!


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## SprayerMiken125 (Jan 11, 2013)

It looks good, if it was me I would just get paper tape fold it in half where the crease is and put directly in the middle of the gap between the wall and ceiling. The mesh tape is just as good as the paper you dont need both and after a couple or 3 coats of mudd and a good sanding it'll look sharp. Caulking is a good idea though that way when you go to cut your line in you will have something straight to run your brush down. One tip any time anyone is tapeing you need to pull it as tight as you can and really remove the excess mud from under the tape. That way you wont have a hump to sand out, if you use mesh it has a tendency to catch on the tip of your drywall knife. One last thing is, 4 inch knife would be the best in my opinion, good luck!


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## Hoffmann (Apr 19, 2012)

I looked at your pics before reading your text 
And as i looked thru the pics my only thought was caulking but the other ideas are great too


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Crown molding?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I myself am not the greatest at wall repairs, I bought a few small pieces of sheet rock at HD and punched some holes in it and practiced my repairs, it helped some what.
I agree with some of the posters paper tape would work with 3 coats of mud.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

I would fill the gap with durabond flat tape it off with the paper then caulk the wall ceiling line for a nice cutting line...


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Your method will work fine but being on a small gap of a 1\4 or less I would just bridge gap with 20 min hot mud allow to set,paper tape over it,follow with finishing coats.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Am I missing something?:blink:


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

OK the correct way would be fill the gap with hot mud (the setting type in bags you mix with water) sets very hard so won't crack later. Then tape with PAPER tape and all purpose mud sand prime paint. If you use the paper tape the crease in the center will give a nice cut line. If you want to do it easier fill the gaps with hot mud go to drywall supplier and get a product called NO-Coat drywall tape a little pricey but only takes 1 coat is stiffer so the cut line is perfect.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Toolnut said:


> OK the correct way would be fill the gap with hot mud (the setting type in bags you mix with water) sets very hard so won't crack later. Then tape with PAPER tape and all purpose mud sand prime paint. If you use the paper tape the crease in the center will give a nice cut line. If you want to do it easier fill the gaps with hot mud go to drywall supplier and get a product called NO-Coat drywall tape a little pricey but only takes 1 coat is stiffer so the cut line is perfect.


 Are you a toolnut or a tool-fool?


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## Bill from Indy (Jan 29, 2011)

the mesh coat is a waste of time and not needed..if you are applying the mesh with regular mud and not quickset...your wasting your time...just tape the corner as usual and finish it out..1/4" gap is not that bad..just make sure the gap is packed with mud..preferably quickset like the other guy said then tape it.

from the looks of it there may have been water damage or the tape was blistered and they tore it out and never fixed it


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

CROWN MOLDING:blink::blink::blink::blink:


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## DiscountHousePainter (Jul 8, 2012)

Thanks so much for the replys. I like the crown molding idea and had already decided that for the living room but its throughout the whole house and I'm kind of on a budget. Lots of drywall work to do at this place but we're having fun with it and its been a good opportunity to freshen up some drywall skills. Thanks again!!!


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

I hope this is your own house because I feel bad for the person that hired you. Attempting to repair drywall is not as easy as people think especially if you do it wrong and then it looks worse.

Adding mesh tape mud just made a mess of what was there IMO.

Rip the mesh out, sand it and then do what Toolnut described is the best solution.

Good Luck.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

I like to just fake over it with paper tape and 3 coats. If the crack is much bigger the mud sags out. The mud in the crack usually cracks up when it shrinks. Sure the paper will probably tear in the future but there is no permanent drywall repair. There are many variables for drywall to last without failure.Good framing, wallboard hung tight(not like the picture) screwed and glued. Corner beads should be nailed enough. This is one of my peeves when the corner beads crack away at the edge due to lack of nails.
The best is when you cut out some wrinkled tape only to find a one inch gap in the corner. Gee wonder why it didn't hold up. Honey over poop. Always looks great when they first move into the new home.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

chrisn said:


> CROWN MOLDING:blink::blink::blink::blink:


If someone is a painter and can't manage to tape that and make it look good what makes you think they could install crown? 

Don't have any drywall guys in the discount house network that owe you a favor and would take care of at least taping it so you can skim, and finish coat it? He may even let you watch and learn something.


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

straight_lines said:


> If someone is a painter and can't manage to tape that and make it look good what makes you think they could install crown?
> 
> Don't have any drywall guys in the discount house network that owe you a favor and would take care of at least taping it so you can skim, and finish coat it? He may even let you watch and learn something.


I agree. Painters are second only to drywallers in drywall and wall repairs.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

You have gotten good advice here. When ever there is gaps prefill is important. Hot mud words well and is stronger than all purpose. A durbond mud is even better than regular quick setting but dont plan on sanding it. I would than finish the corner as normal.


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

The dude's got to learn some how...

He's just askin' folks here at PT...

Ease up, if you don't have a productive answer.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I think a 1st coat of durabond is what I would do, and I would embed the paper tape into a healthy coat of that. Then finish with the bucket variety. That's what the drywall guy I use does.


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