# Oil based solid stain stripper recipie?



## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Deck to strip. Oil based solid presently on there. Weathered some but have seen far worse. 

What do you think of the Powersolve spiked with HD-80 combo.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Either on their own, applied direct should work John. I used to layer them for a great effect. HD-80 first. if it isn't working, downstream the powersolve on top.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

PressurePros said:


> Either on their own, applied direct should work John. I used to layer them for a great effect. HD-80 first. if it isn't working, downstream the powersolve on top.


Yep,this is a pretty straight forward strip. Sodium hydroxide stripper, both the mentioned products work well and are a high concentration. The next most readily available stripper would be BM 315-00 Remove. Very high concentration too, works well.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Thanks guys for the quick response.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Good timing F and S. If I can hijack... how well would that stripper work on this deck? Or is there a better product?
Not sure if its oil or waterbased, but I know its cabots solid body.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Now that deck is going to require some serious stripping effort. I would sooner replace that rail system than try to strip it (unless it turns out to be oil based, which would be rare). The best bet for that deckwould be to prep and redo topcoat with the Cabot's or strip and offer a semi trans on floor and a two tone scheme for railing.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Thanks Ken. It will go back to a solid but I have to get that loose stuff up (obviously)
Going to be fun:whistling2:


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Cabots is not an option. I do believe interior latex flat would hold up longer.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

PressurePros said:


> Now that deck is going to require some serious stripping effort. I would sooner replace that rail system than try to strip it (unless it turns out to be oil based, which would be rare). The best bet for that deckwould be to prep and redo topcoat with the Cabot's or strip and offer a semi trans on floor and a two tone scheme for railing.


Ken what about a floor sander? I don't mean one of those with the three pads, but a drum sander like for refinishing hardwood.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> Ken what about a floor sander? I don't mean one of those with the three pads, but a drum sander like for refinishing hardwood.


Sanding floors like that just plain suck. Now if he can get the vast majority off with a chemical strip, sure sand the rest. If its going back to solid anyways, no point sanding.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

On a deck like that I wouldn't think it would be. 36 grit on a drum sander can remove a bunch of coating pretty quickly. Only worry would be the boards not being even, cupped and what not. With the long runs on that deck I would think that would be really easy.

I agree if going back solid its pointless.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> Ken what about a floor sander? I don't mean one of those with the three pads, but a drum sander like for refinishing hardwood.


Its an option but you have to set nails, manually sand into cupped boards, and use some type off offset sander to get under the rails. Horizontal strips aren't as bad as verticals, so I would still go the chem route.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

In the past I have always used either the Penofin or Deckscapes deck prep line, so I am unfamiliar with these two products. I have just done some reading on powersolve and hd-80 and I was wondering how you mix the two? When you layer them, do you apply the hd-80 with a pump sprayer or do you downstream both? My downstreamer is a fixed 4:1 unit (20%?) in case that's relevant.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

These are pro grade strippers. They are better for use on a regular basis as they are stronger and more cost efficient. They are also products with which you should take precautions.

For the crazy difficult strips, apply HD-80 direct then downstream Powersolve over top. The butyl in the PowerSolve as well as the additional sodium hydroxide ramps up the action. The extra water generated via downstreaming insures the wood is getting saturated with stripper and surfactant. 

There is actually a third and easier way which we use now. That's a holy grail trade secret I figured out a couple years ago... no sharee :jester:


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Awwww, come on Ken! People helping people? Where's the love!? :jester:


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Awwww, come on Ken! People helping people? Where's the love!? :jester:


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

mpminter said:


> Awwww, come on Ken! People helping people? Where's the love!? :jester:


I used up all my love reviewing my numbers for the second quarter. :yes:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I taught Ken everything he knows about stripping chems - he he.


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

I cant tell from the picture, but it looks like vinyl siding. How do you protect the home from getting damaged by these strippers???? I don't strip decks and would prefer not to do anything to a deck other then PW.(NO $$ in it)


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## Windy Painters (Mar 28, 2011)

Last year I started to use Woolman Acrylic Stain Remover. You can get it in Menards. Works with oil-based stains too. Is much better than Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams "products"


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

I haven't had very good luck with woolmans, my favorite off the shelf stripper is cabots they have one for oil based coatings that works very well and one that is for latex waterbased that is pretty good. Superdeck stripper is comparable


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