# Top 5 ways to increase production



## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

So here's the deal. I am pretty new to the business side of painting, and to be honest, every day I am confronted by the reality that I know far less about this trade than I thought I did when I started my first company 6 years ago. That being said, I have now hit two years in business with my current company and I am building a reputation of integrity and quality. I have also become a student of the painting trade, having dedicated huge amounts of time and energy into learning all I can about different coatings and their associated application tools and techniques and my knowledge base has increased dramatically. I fell into the trap early on of trying to do jobs as cheap as I could just so I could stay working, but my conscience wouldn't allow me to do a shoddy job. The result - my customers were getting twice the job they were actually paying for, and I was barely getting by. I have come to believe that my biggest problem on a job right now is speed. If I could cut my time down, I could do the same quality work at the same price, while dramatically increasing my profit margin. All that being said, what are your top five tips for increasing production? I'm talking tools, techniques, organization, planning, anything and everything you can think of. Thanks alot in advance!:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## cappaint (May 24, 2011)

Systemization. Build a system that works...tweak it and find ways to save time.

Get as much help from HO as u can. In the beginning a lot of guys want to be nice and move all the furniture and take pictures down, etc, etc,. Make the HO have the rooms relatively empty, and ready to go. Lets say you have 4 rooms to paint. Dont attack them as individuals.....First remove all the hardware in all the rooms....then caulk and patch every room....then paint ceilings in every room....You get the idea. That way you do each step once and you are done with it. Not going back and forth, with different tools, etc. 

Thats not 5 but its saturday and i dont want to think a lot.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

What is the size of your labor force? Efficiency is built around crew configuration, in my experience.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

cappaint said:


> Systemization. Build a system that works...tweak it and find ways to save time.
> 
> Get as much help from HO as u can. In the beginning a lot of guys want to be nice and move all the furniture and take pictures down, etc, etc,. Make the HO have the rooms relatively empty, and ready to go. Lets say you have 4 rooms to paint. Dont attack them as individuals.....First remove all the hardware in all the rooms....then caulk and patch every room....then paint ceilings in every room....You get the idea. That way you do each step once and you are done with it. Not going back and forth, with different tools, etc.
> 
> Thats not 5 but its saturday and i dont want to think a lot.


Hey, I appreciate the advice. I have to admit, I'm the guy that moves everything and puts it all back. I should probably at least charge by the piece for that sort of thing, but I just always counted it as part of the job. I can definitely see some lost time and revenue there...


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

vermontpainter said:


> What is the size of your labor force? Efficiency is built around crew configuration, in my experience.


There are four of us total right now, two of us are journeyman level painters. The next one is getting better all the time, but still has a ways to go and that's my fault really. It has only been recently that I actually focused on training him instead of just expecting him to pick it up by observation. The fourth is a pt kid I bring around every now and then as an unskilled laborer (summer job).


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## mustangmike3789 (Jun 11, 2011)

mpminter said:


> Hey, I appreciate the advice. I have to admit, I'm the guy that moves everything and puts it all back. I should probably at least charge by the piece for that sort of thing, but I just always counted it as part of the job. I can definitely see some lost time and revenue there...


 i would have to say that this is one way to eat up a lot of time. i was that way years ago when i was in the tile bus, until a i did a job for a pack rat. i spent an entire day moving all of his junk around before i could even think about doing any prep or set up tools. i started to charge $50 to move the fridge, $50 to remove the toilet and would continue to charge as needed. labor is your biggest expense on the job, so dont give it away for free.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I really am going to have to start either having the customer move stuff, or charging to do it. I have heard of guys charging by the piece, but what type of pricing model do you use? (notice I said pricing model, not price!)


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

theres an old saying in the military...........slow is steady and steady is fast..........


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I can't tell you how many times I've proven that to be true! Rushing in and out of SW in the morning only to get to the job and realize I forgot to get something I needed,, or trying to save five minutes and making a mistake that takes 30 to fix!


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## Sully (May 25, 2011)

Having things ready to go with furniture moved is a great time saver. Another thing I do is to do everything I can when I make a move solike if I get down off a ladder and cut down a corner to the base I will continue to cut the lows to the extent of my reach. Be ambidextrous and use both my hands to cut in and gain full reach. If you are painting a large open room or multiple rooms in the same color I use a 18 inch roller. I could roll out a 4 bedroom apartment in a few hours with one of those. Have two guys cut and one guy roll behind them. That should keep them on their toes. Roll out of a five since it's easier to move and hold more paint. Learn to bend down and cut the lows. I'm not a big fan of that one but you will smoke anyone whose taking a knee once you get the hang of it. I worked for a guy who wanted chit done fast and clean and I did it for 9 summers in a row and time in between school during the winter.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

there's nothing you can write on paper to increase ones production rates but ill try..........below ill list what I think is important if you want to increase your production rate with a brush.....



1- *do not be afraid of the paint*...ill throw a loaded brush at a guy until he catches it regardless..........bristles/handle....whatever just catch it .....im able to do what I do cause im in control .......I own the brush ...it works for me .. I am extremely comfortable with a brush an consider it an extension of my hands ......this is actually one of the more important things i look for in a new painter


2- *avoid short cuts*........no blue tape period for brush work, a 2.5'' flat is capable in 95% of most painting situations......exceptions: kitchen cabinets near frames.......some spots in bathrooms etc etc.........I explain this to guys by having them go to the truck for a smaller brush and by the time they come back up its already done by ME then I rub it in like no tomorrow ....they usually get the point quick.....next time you reach for that wizz roller why not keep on with the brush? ...youll be surprised, life before the wizz roller imagine that........i see guys goin for short cuts all day an cant believe it ...........sit the hell still an paint, every minute off the wall is a minute you dont get back an listem to me and those minutes turn into dollar sighns fast .........


3- *ambidexterity.....* 2 hands are better then 1 esp on exteriors.... 4' to the left then 4' to the right ... watch some of my videos and notice how my body position remains the same while my brush is swapped back an forth between both hands....the less you have to move your body the more still your body remains an the more your brush can work..... ........seconds count in an 8 hr day...........

4- *every brush move must have a purpose....* you'll notice guys take a loaded brush up to an inside corner only to poke an play with it .........1 shot to the left then another to the right an the corner is done !! ......its simple really, take the paint from the can an apply it to the wall then go get more paint.........the idea here is to get the product to the wall the brush being the vehicle in this circumstance ........once the product is delivered you work it in then repeat the process


5- *Look Ahead.... *if im doing a door an workin the upper left panel my eyes are already on the upper right panel..........like a chess game, think ahead and plan your next move, where's your ladder gonna go??? .......what's in your way?? what's down the line ?? ........corner coming up??.........


6- *No Sash Brushes.....* sash brushes are for guys who cant paint, 9 out of 10 guys are trained to use a sash from day 1 for a reason .......perceived ease of use !! ..............trust me when I say this, a flat is capable of a straighter line if not more over a sash and more importantly it slings paint in both directions and if your lookin for production then that's what you need


7*- rhythm....* im a rhythm painter an by that I mean I tend to do things in bunches like all the trim or just cut in all day or just roll all day........I find that switching back an forth slows you down and doesn't allow you to get into the proper rhythm.....




8- *single/double and triple tap...... *only 1 correct way to load a brush in a can an that's to tap the sides .... single tap for when your haulin ass an double/triple for other times......never understood guys who wipe the brush off on the lip of the can........your takin the paint off before you even hit the wall lol duh !!! ......or the guys who wipe off one side when they cut in thinkin they're cutting a better line.............learn to use a brush seriously 


9- *brush size......*I learned a long time ago that the 2''-2.5'' are the most efficient brush's for interior work an most exterior....1 brush for the entire house......lighter an more nimble when negotiating trim work or cutting wall lines........all to often in videos I see guys fumbling around on a door with an over sized brushes thinking they are getting ahead when in reality they're standing still .........now this only applies to somebody already proficient with a brush, hand a kid a 2'' brush and he'll be no better off then with the 3''.........this one is a tough sell unless you actually try it..


what I do may or may not work for you............hope this helps


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## Sully (May 25, 2011)

I completely agree^ If you can't sling a brush you're gonna be there all day.


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## ltd (Nov 18, 2010)

time your self,and push to do better and quicker .don't fight your cutting paint, a little shot of warter from the spicket and your cut lines will be sharper and faster.


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## pinchegordo (Jul 3, 2011)

Ole34 said:


> 3- ambidexterity..... 2 hands are better then 1 esp on exteriors.... 4' to the left then 4' to the right ... watch some of my videos and notice how my body position remains the same while my brush is swapped back an forth between both hands....the less you have to move your body the more still your body remains an the more your brush can work..... ........seconds count in an 8 hr day...........
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Man oh man these two especially for me ! When I mastered these two things my production increased noticeably ........ I was taught with a sash/angle and because of it learned many bad habits.. It took me a long time to break.Ole good stuff


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

ltd said:


> time your self,and push to do better and quicker .don't fight your cutting paint, a little shot of warter from the spicket and your cut lines will be sharper and faster.


Its funny you should mention that. The guy that taught me to paint never put anything in his paint. He seemed to think that using any kind of additive, even water or paint thinner, was somehow bad. I used a splash of floetrol the other day to give me a bit more open time when rolling a big wall in a warm building and I couldn't believe how much easier and faster it was to cut in! I am definitely a believer in floetrol now, and I will be trying other stuff as the need arises (extenders, penetrol, naptha, etc.)


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## oldpaintdoc (Apr 11, 2010)

mpminter said:


> Its funny you should mention that. The guy that taught me to paint never put anything in his paint. He seemed to think that using any kind of additive, even water or paint thinner, was somehow bad. I used a splash of floetrol the other day to give me a bit more open time when rolling a big wall in a warm building and I couldn't believe how much easier and faster it was to cut in! I am definitely a believer in floetrol now, and I will be trying other stuff as the need arises (extenders, penetrol, naptha, etc.)


Try XIM Extender. I find Floetrol gets chunky in the bottle between use. Also XIM seems to mix easier. It is harder to find in the stores.

Also do not forget to mark on the paint can that it has additive in it and how much per gallon for future matching.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

pinchegordo said:


> Man oh man these two especially for me ! When I mastered these two things my production increased noticeably ........ I was taught with a sash/angle and because of it learned many bad habits.. It took me a long time to break.Ole good stuff


 


your a good man!! .,...... people have no clue about the FLAT :thumbsup:


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

3 inch purdy 
And the 2 .5 flat is what I learned with and now . Those pro forums brushes rock ! 
I like the 2.5 oval for exteriors 
And the Picasso slash 2.5 for detail work 
And the BM 125 for doors


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> 3 inch purdy
> And the 2 .5 flat is what I learned with and now . Those pro forums brushes rock !
> I like the 2.5 oval for exteriors
> And the Picasso slash 2.5 for detail work
> And the BM 125 for doors


I picked up a purdy 3" awhile ago that I liked ok, but I have to say I prefer the 2.5" alpha angle sash that wooster sent me as a sample. That brush really impressed me. I have never used an oval brush of any kind and have never tried any made by pro form, but I will be picking up a picasso to try on my next interior job. I also want to try some BM and arroworthy brushes. I have to admit that I'm not crazy about most of the purdy products that I've used lately, but I'm willing to give their clear cut line a try. I like the syntox line, and I use their 3" flat chinex (beaver tail handle) for exterior duration but other than that I'm moving towards corona and wooster.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

ragebhardt said:


> Try XIM Extender. I find Floetrol gets chunky in the bottle between use. Also XIM seems to mix easier. It is harder to find in the stores.
> 
> Also do not forget to mark on the paint can that it has additive in it and how much per gallon for future matching.


I just discovered that about floetrol and will be picking up a bottle of XIM this week. It had never occurred to me to mark the can with the additive and quantity used, but that is an excellent suggestion.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

mpminter said:


> The result - my customers were getting twice the job they were actually paying for, and I was barely getting by. I have come to believe that my biggest problem on a job right now is speed. If I could cut my time down, I could do the same quality work at the same price, while dramatically increasing my profit margin. All that being said, what are your top five tips for increasing production? I'm talking tools, techniques, organization, planning, anything and everything you can think of. Thanks alot in advance!:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


I think you first need to read what Ken posted years ago before you get into efficiency. See if it makes sense to you. 


http://www.painttalk.com/f4/craftsmanship-not-what-makes-business-succesful-1226/


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Holy crap. I am Alan the painter in so many ways. I was telling my wife just the other day that I feel trapped working for one income bracket, but that if I were to raise my prices I would lose my customers and their referrals. I know I need to raise my prices, but how do I do that without going back to square one? I guess that's why I feel like If I could just be faster, I could keep my prices the same and still make more money. I can tell you one thing, I am getting sick of working 8-10 hours a day on the job, and then having to go get materials/supplies for the next day, meet with a potential client, get home around 8:00pm and then work on the computer until 10:00. Then again, this is only the very beginning of year three for me, so maybe I just have to pay my dues?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You have to find a way to get from where you are to where you want to be. If you aren't charging enough to get ahead and grow your business year after year then you won't ever reach your goals.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

mpminter said:


> Holy crap. I am Alan the painter in so many ways. I was telling my wife just the other day that I feel trapped working for one income bracket, but that if I were to raise my prices I would lose my customers and their referrals. I know I need to raise my prices, but how do I do that without going back to square one? I guess that's why I feel like If I could just be faster, I could keep my prices the same and still make more money. I can tell you one thing, I am getting sick of working 8-10 hours a day on the job, and then having to go get materials/supplies for the next day, meet with a potential client, get home around 8:00pm and then work on the computer until 10:00. Then again, this is only the very beginning of year three for me, so maybe I just have to pay my dues?


Wow sounds like me too . I haven't been in my studio all summer making paintings . Pressure pro said it . That 's a mission statement . I have a lot to learn .


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