# Pro Block primer sealer



## T-rum (Jan 29, 2011)

Just sealed my freshly skim coated ceiling and walls using SW Pro Block with just a bit of black pigment (p2) Sprayed as I normally would for a light prime coat and it dryed really stripey. Not too suprising as the new dry wall is just sucking it up so the edges of my spray fan are covered a little heavier because of the 50% over lap. 
The thing is I usually do residential repaints and my first coat of paint often looks like this (stripey) but a second coat evens it out. but Now I'm over analizing this job as it's more like painting a new build. So my question is If my sealer is supposed to create a uniform surface for my paint coats, can it still do that if it looks uneaven? 
My guess would be yes, because as long as the whole surface got the sealer it's sealed even if it lookes uneven. But I could easily spray another prime coat cross hatched and most likely come out with an even looking surface. I'm probably over thinking this, but like I said in my skim coat post, I am just outside of my normal type job and thought I would run this by you guys.:smile:


----------



## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

I just used this product over skimmed walls as well. I was surprised how much sheen it had when dry. 

I found it didn't adhere well. 

I found it did seal well. Rolled the ceilings and walls and the first coat on both stayed wet for a long time. Easily could roll out entire walls and ceilings and have a continuous wet film all the way across. Eminence on the lids and promar 400 on the walls. 

It doesn't cover/hide anything. Had a dark brown eggshell/semigloss closet and yellowed off white closets. After two color coats both the brown and yellow can be seen using a 1/2" white woven. The cuts are worse and made worse by how well it sealed. The first color coat had to go on light since otherwise the cut would run. 

At the same time the problock did little regarding some yellowing and possible water stains. Resorted to shellac to seal those. 

For what they charge I'm not impressed and wouldn't purchase it myself. 

Maybe others have more experience with it as it was my first time using both the problock and promar 400 flat/semi.


----------



## T-rum (Jan 29, 2011)

Interesting. How did it not adhere well?
Nice to here about a long open time for rolling the ceiling.:smile:
I'm not surprised about the non stain blocking characteristic. I've come to realize that if you need stain blocking you just can't use a latex primer. Oil or shellac only ones that actually block.

I do have lots of experience with pro mar 400 flat. That is my go to for ceilings. It is a true flat and dries in nicely not leaving roller marks. In fact that is why I prefer it to Eminence. The eminence is a true flat too, but it's down side for me is that it is a high build and can leave roller marks if you're not careful. 

Anyway, The rabbit whole I was going down in my original post was, "Will a sealer coat that looks stripey seal uniformly or will it set up my finish coats to end up stripey too? Like in the areas that are heavier with sealer seal _more_ than the areas that lighter? Does anyone have any insight into that specific situation?


----------



## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

Sorry. To be clear, my topcoats had a long open time over pro block. 

The problock did not look even when I was done considering the different thickness of compound it was going over (a drywall contractor was responsible for skimming existing walls which were covered in I believe an eggshell and were probably started smooth but looked like a rocky road after 40-50 years in habited. I didn't notice any issues in the flat topcoats applied. 

As for adhesion I feel it creates a film that floats over the substrate but doesn't penetrate at all despite being thin. I noticed a few drips the next day on the walls after priming the ceilings and the problock drips came up with my finger nail easily and peeled off down to substrate Obviously it's not cured after 12-24 hours. But having worked with other products that don't do that I just wouldn't feel comfortable using pro block. This was purchased for the project by the owner so I figured it as an opportunity to use something I typically wouldn't by myself. 

Others have said it is a rubbery product and I agree. I activated didn't have a chance to try and sand it so no comments there. 

I don't think you'd have an issue with topcoat appearance over uneven coverage with a flat. 

I'd be concerned with anything with sheen that typically telegraphs. Granted I'm sure there are some eggshells that perform well over non uniform surfaces (a certain Behr user used to tout that about a certain eggshell). 

Obviously a uniform surface in texture and porosity is preferable.


----------



## T-rum (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks man. exactly what I was looking for! Very well explained!


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I would strongly, STRONGLY, that next time you are at an SW store, before you buy anything, that you go back to your vehicle and drive to the nearest real paint store and leave that fancied up box store for good. You are paying WAY to much to cover the expense of all those gussied up stores, tv commercials, and all they other marketing expenses that Sherman Williams has.


----------



## T-rum (Jan 29, 2011)

What brand paint do you like?


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*sealing skim coated surfaces*



T-rum said:


> Just sealed my freshly skim coated ceiling and walls using SW Pro Block with just a bit of black pigment (p2) Sprayed as I normally would for a light prime coat and it dryed really stripey. Not too suprising as the new dry wall is just sucking it up so the edges of my spray fan are covered a little heavier because of the 50% over lap.
> The thing is I usually do residential repaints and my first coat of paint often looks like this (stripey) but a second coat evens it out. but Now I'm over analizing this job as it's more like painting a new build. So my question is If my sealer is supposed to create a uniform surface for my paint coats, can it still do that if it looks uneaven?
> My guess would be yes, because as long as the whole surface got the sealer it's sealed even if it lookes uneven. But I could easily spray another prime coat cross hatched and most likely come out with an even looking surface. I'm probably over thinking this, but like I said in my skim coat post, I am just outside of my normal type job and thought I would run this by you guys.:smile:


I don't spray, so what I have to say on your topic might not be of value.

I have found that rolling 2 coats of Gardz works very well to seal and even out the porosity on skim coated ceilings and walls. Gardz also allows for extended wet time so that you can get even coats. It is true that Gardz dries clear, but if you are 2-coating your ceilings and walls you shouldn't have a problem with getting full coverage and hide.

futtyos


----------



## T-rum (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks Futtyos!
That Gardz seems pretty popular on this forum. I'll have to give it a try next opportunity.


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Gardz viscosity*



T-rum said:


> Thanks Futtyos!
> That Gardz seems pretty popular on this forum. I'll have to give it a try next opportunity.


Gardz is thin, so it soaks into porous surfaces very well. It also makes any dust on the surface become a permanent part of the wall.

futtyos


----------

