# Favorite tip size for spraying exterior trim?



## HorizonPainting (Apr 1, 2011)

Just seeing what everyone else uses for spraying exterior trim.. Depending on the size of the trim I usually use a 417. I have hear of some using all the way down to a 211. Do you think sizing down to a 211 would give a noticible difference in appearance? I like to spray on pretty thick coats, but I'm wondering about finish quality too.


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

i would say your biggest issue will be your tip clogging with 211,get a 313,15 or 17


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

413 for exteriors


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

515, 517


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Depends on what the material is. From 315 to a 521


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

HorizonPainting said:


> Just seeing what everyone else uses for spraying exterior trim.. Depending on the size of the trim I usually use a 417. I have hear of some using all the way down to a 211. Do you think sizing down to a 211 would give a noticible difference in appearance? I like to spray on pretty thick coats, but I'm wondering about finish quality too.


I don't see why there would be any difference for trim inside or outside...If you want a fine finish for doors + trim inside I use a 312 FF....I usually thin it about 5-10% and ALWAYS take the time to strain the paint.

Now spraying cedar siding or a fence is a different matter...You want more fluid so I would use a 515 or 517 tip and backroll.


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## HorizonPainting (Apr 1, 2011)

JoseyWales said:


> I don't see why there would be any difference for trim inside or outside...If you want a fine finish for doors + trim inside I use a 312 FF....I usually thin it about 5-10% and ALWAYS take the time to strain the paint.
> 
> Now spraying cedar siding or a fence is a different matter...You want more fluid so I would use a 515 or 517 tip and backroll.


I have used a 517 for a while, but I'm just thinking overspray. I like to put on a nice thick coat. I always strain, but never thin exterior latex. I'm just wondering if you can actually tell a difference from the ground in a 517 and a 315 tips' finish.?.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

retarded thread. Please go try each tip out and come back with your results.


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## BigDogPainting (Apr 13, 2011)

Why would you spray exterior trim?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

http://www.painttalk.com/f12/sprayer-manuals-articles-info-6200/#post87485


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

BigDogPainting said:


> Why would you spray exterior trim?


Why wouldnt you?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

*Painting 101*



*http://www.gleempaint.com/understanding-airless-spray-tips.html*



*Understanding Airless Spray Tips*



The relationship of the tip opening (orifice) to spray pattern size is:

_Given a constant width (fan), the larger the orifice, the more material the sprayer will apply. (A larger orifice means greater paint flow)._








Given a constant orifice size, an increasing fan width will apply a thinner coating of material to the surface because a given amount of material is distributed over a larger area.









*Sizing a Spray Tip* U.S. manufacturers typically use three numbers to designate tip size, as in 517 or 211.


_The first digit refers to fan width and is one-half the size of the working fan width. The second and third digits refer to orifice size in thousandths of an inch; thus, the 17 in 517 refers to an orifice size of .017 inches._
The following examples illustrate the tip numbering convention:

Tip Number - Fan Width - Orifice Size
211 - 4 inches - .011 inches
417 - 8 inches - .017 inches
527 - 10 inches - .027 inches 
SprayTech Reversible tips are stamped on the top of the directional arrow for easy reference.








5 = 10" fan pattern at 12 inch spraying distance
17 = 17 thousandths orifice size


*Which tip size to buy?* Well now you know what the sizes mean, the question is which sized do you need? This will depend on: 

A: Area you are spraying.
_Example: If you were spraying a 4 inch baseboard in a new house, you would not pick out a 517 (10 inch fan) to spray it with._
B: What size sprayer you have
_If your pump is rated at a max tip of .017 you can not spray with a 519 tip_
C: Kind of material you are spraying ( Example latex primer, or oil base stain. )
_This is actually not as important of a factor as you would think, since a 415 would spray either of the above mentioned materials, but is a factor to consider._

*We made a TOP Seven “most popular” sizes we sell and their main usage.* *Top Seven airless tip sizes:* 

#1: *415* Would be the most popular size for spraying just about anything. Walls, doors, ceilings, decks, exterior walls, exterior siding a good all around tip.
#2: *517* Very popular for spraying int. walls, and int. ceilings.
#3 *413* This is good size for doors, and ext. overhang and ext. siding. Gives you a little more control vs a 415 for ext. spraying. Also sometimes used for spraying Cabinets.
#4 *313* Same areas as 413, but just for narrower areas.
#5 *515* About the same areas as a 415, just a bit wider fan width.
#6 *211* This is a very small tip, we sell it more for new construction for spraying baseboard installed up on the wall. And for exterior facial board. Note you will need a extra fine red gun filter for spraying with this small of a tip._ Also you will have to watch that red filter when spraying latex with this small tip setup, it will tend to clog faster than normal._
#7 *619* First make sure your pump will maintain a .019, main use is for New construction were over spray is of no concern, and high output is needed. If you are not familiar with spraying you will need to watch for runs with this tip size. *If you still have questions on tips, feel free to email or call us. We would be glad to give a recommendation.*


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

We just struck gold I tell ya. Oh wait that infos in the spray rig manuals. I thought it was new. Can we get a diagram on tip guards and whips :jester: and then next a sash, or a block, pins and needles.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> We just struck gold I tell ya. Oh wait that infos in the spray rig manuals. I thought it was new. Can we get a diagram on tip guards and whips :jester: and then next a sash, or a block, pins and needles.


Nobody said any of this was new Gabe. I thought it would be helpful to the OP. Not everyone has your level of expertise.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Sure, Neps gets all the glory, what about the link I posted in post #10, Sean had some good stuff too!


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Nobody said any of this was new Gabe. I thought it would be helpful to the OP. Not everyone has your level of expertise.



Which I fairly low


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## HorizonPainting (Apr 1, 2011)

Paradigmzz said:


> retarded thread. Please go try each tip out and come back with your results.


Yea, I have used several tips depending on the job, I was just wondering what everyone else used.... I understand what the little numbers mean, I eaked my way through reading that difficult manual. 

Why does everyone seem to bash the OP on here? geez.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

HorizonPainting said:


> I have used a 517 for a while, but I'm just thinking overspray. I like to put on a nice thick coat. I always strain, but never thin exterior latex. I'm just wondering if you can actually tell a difference from the ground in a 517 and a 315 tips' finish.?.



A thick coat isn't necessarily better...2-3 thin coats is better than one thick coat...The kind of wood/metal trim and finish paint also plays a part in your choice of spray tips....I wouldn't advise spraying a product Aura too thick as it tends to run...Rough cedar will absorb more material per coat thus allowing for a larger tip orifice.


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I haven't done exteriors for a few years due to back/neck problems but I used to use 515 tips for the exterior body and 313/413 for soffit/fascia due to the design and materials on houses in the midsouth (large masonite sided gables, wide soffit/fasica same color typically).


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

HorizonPainting said:


> Yea, I have used several tips depending on the job, I was just wondering what everyone else used.... I understand what the little numbers mean, I eaked my way through reading that difficult manual.
> 
> Why does everyone seem to bash the OP on here? geez.


I think it was Gabe just having fun with Neps, not directed at you.


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

JoseyWales said:


> I don't see why there would be any difference for trim inside or outside...If you want a fine finish for doors + trim inside I use a 312 FF....I usually thin it about 5-10% and ALWAYS take the time to strain the paint.
> 
> Now spraying cedar siding or a fence is a different matter...You want more fluid so I would use a 515 or 517 tip and backroll.


Backrolling when using an airless is something you'll never find me doing.
I didn't pay over 2 grand to turn my airless into a paint delivery system for rolling with a nap.

Using a screened filter washer at the tip will prevent clogs when using small or large tips. 5-17 is somewhat too large a size tip for spraying latex enamels on other than large flat trim.


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

Contractor Jeff said:


> Backrolling when using an airless is something you'll never find me doing.
> I didn't pay over 2 grand to turn my airless into a paint delivery system for rolling with a nap.


At all, or just trim work?


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

ligboozer said:


> At all, or just trim work?


At all. I may have to come back and roll out one door separately (when its dried) because I didn't like how it sprayed out.
I've nothing against back rolling as many use that technique, I just don't, never will. I also want to say the way my jobs look
doesn't suffer from me not backrolling any surface, be it flat or enamel.

I realize also that backrolling works the paint into some surfaces where spraying doesn't. For instance, trowled on stucco exteriors with lots of nooks and crannies.
It might look better rolling it out, but spraying produces very satisfactory results. In fact, with all the little "shadows" of the texture filled in by backrolling, the stucco tends to look like it's made of plastic. 
To me, it's not worth backrolling with 1-1/2" naps. I suppose if you have a crew, then ya. It's a sure fire way of achieving satisfactory results regularly, which is why this technique is used. Nothing against that.

Also, I don't have a crew to backroll, lol. I guess I should have mentioned that.


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

Contractor Jeff said:


> At all. I may have to come back and roll out one door separately (when its dried) because I didn't like how it sprayed out.
> I've nothing against back rolling as many use that technique, I just don't, never will. I also want to say the way my jobs look
> doesn't suffer from me not backrolling any surface, be it flat or enamel.
> 
> ...


 
Yikes. 

Backrolling looks better, but you don't do it?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Not just looks better but gives you better adhesion, forces paint into cracks, nooks, you get the idea.


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> Not just looks better but gives you better adhesion, forces paint into cracks, nooks, you get the idea.


Actually, heh...nooks and crannies on wood shouldn't be filled in with the finish paint spraying, and...backrolling out textured stucco on nice homes takes away all the character of the trowled stucco texture. It looks ok, but sorta "plasticized" afterwards. 

Backrolling is ok. I don't mean to start a heated debate. oops, too late. Now every backroller will want to defend it, lol. It has its good points. Especially for crews doing repaints of rental dwellings. It's also a sure fire way that the areas come out looking good and not need going back to. So there.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I remember the first time I rolled block filler out of a 5. The whole time I'm thinking, "There has got to be a better way to deliver this product to the wall."






straight_lines said:


> Not just looks better but gives you better adhesion, forces paint into cracks, nooks, you get the idea.


If you still have cracks and nooks when its time to paint fire the prep guy.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Alright back to the subject. This will vary depending on Paint, substrate, and size of
trim.

Color can also affect tip choice on new construction eves.

Did a bunch in white normal go to tip was a 419-519. But on white we started 2 coating it with 621's.

After further review we found it better to 1st coat all white eves with the cap cod gray so when we did cape cod gray eves we 1st coated all the white eves at the same time and went back and finished coated white eves.

We were able to go back to the 419-519 tips saving money and time.

Retarded to some informative to others that's why it's called PT. Rob


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Bender said:


> I remember the first time I rolled block filler out of a 5. The whole time I'm thinking, "There has got to be a better way to deliver this product to the wall."
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Or you could blow n go and call it good.:whistling2:


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

robladd said:


> Alright back to the subject. This will vary depending on Paint, substrate, and size of
> trim.
> 
> Color can also affect tip choice on new construction eves.
> ...


Dude, 21 tip size? Wow. A .17 tip will put out the paint. I've never used anything bigger than a .17 for spraying heavy latex primers and finish paints, unless it was super thick block filler or something.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Contractor Jeff said:


> Dude, 21 tip size? Wow. A .17 tip will put out the paint. I've never used anything bigger than a .17 for spraying heavy latex primers and finish paints, unless it was super thick block filler or something.


Jeff you have to realize this is new construction raw Douglas fir rough saw cut. Also the paint is Acylic-vinyl.

"TRIM" varies so much across the country not to mention around the world. So to me there is a wide assortment of go to tips for spraying whatever is outside. Its like a box of chocolates you never know whats your going to get.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

I use 4 tips on exteriors regularly: 312, 415, 517, 519. 

Depending on the type of trim, i'll most often use the 312. Doors get the 415. 

That said, when doing an exterior i'll usually just brush the trim (in most cases anyways - depends on the job).


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