# Skim coat Over wallpaper?



## mdZX

Hey all, is it advisable to skim coat over wallpaper? Client says do it, but, I'm advising her ,it should be removed along with as much glue as possible? 
Thanks in advance!

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## finishesbykevyn

mdZX said:


> Hey all, is it advisable to skim coat over wallpaper? Client says do it, but, I'm advising her ,it should be removed along with as much glue as possible?
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Lots of threads on this subject already.. You can but be sure to prime with gardz first.

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## mdZX

Thanks, I just rushed in for quick answer. Sorry about that!
I'll search the threads!

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## kmp

Just finished a wall covering skim coat job today .Home owners couldnt afford the t&m to remove it so I shellac coated it and put on a hawk and trowel finish on it. Not best practice but the crap paper had to go one way or another. I know some like wall coverings but i really hate the stuff.


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## Fman

We learned just this week to never, EVER let the home owner tell you how to do anything!!! Especially if it's a gal!!!


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## mdZX

Thanks for the info!

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## mdZX

Fman said:


> We learned just this week to never, EVER let the home owner tell you how to do anything!!! Especially if it's a gal!!!


Lol! She's got the bankroll, but, I just want it done fast and correctly! No call backs!!

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## celicaxx

I've been pretty lucky in all my wallpaper jobs that removal was pretty painless. Score it with the little wheel with teeth thing on plaster, or sometimes try to pull the glossy stuff off first when dealing with drywall, then just use a garden sprayer with hot water and a good taping knife. It didn't take over a couple of hours per room, and my amount of gouges on drywall was minimal, and plaster was none, just a few tiny cracks by windows. I might just be lucky, but it wasn't over 2-3 hours per room for removal. I'd think time and materials for a hawk and trowel skim coat and a shellac priming would be a lot more than just removing it, admittedly I'm a slow skim coater/plasterer, though. Then your skim coat would suck more paint and/or would need a primer of a latex primer anyway. Seems like a lot more work. If it's already painted over, likely removing it's gonna be a pain in the ass and a skim coat like you're describing could be the only option, but I just can't see it taking less time to remove it unless it's freak paper with a super glue. 

I can't imagine unless the stuff was tenaciously adhered somehow removal would be that difficult, unless it's been painted over. I've also never used Gardz for wallpaper glue, just plain oil primers. However, now due to VOC laws oil is expensive and pointless, so I'm trying to switch to BIN for most oil uses. 

I just say this as I have a really bad taste in my mouth from one job where people did paint over wallpaper, with dating from the 1940s. A lot started to peel up, and I had to feather in peeling wallpaper that they thought was peeling paint. One of my first experiences of someone going "**** it, leave it for the next guy." To be fair I must have been 50+ years later, but still.


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## finishesbykevyn

celicaxx said:


> I've been pretty lucky in all my wallpaper jobs that removal was pretty painless. Score it with the little wheel with teeth thing on plaster, or sometimes try to pull the glossy stuff off first when dealing with drywall, then just use a garden sprayer with hot water and a good taping knife. It didn't take over a couple of hours per room, and my amount of gouges on drywall was minimal, and plaster was none, just a few tiny cracks by windows. I might just be lucky, but it wasn't over 2-3 hours per room for removal. I'd think time and materials for a hawk and trowel skim coat and a shellac priming would be a lot more than just removing it, admittedly I'm a slow skim coater/plasterer, though. Then your skim coat would suck more paint and/or would need a primer of a latex primer anyway. Seems like a lot more work. If it's already painted over, likely removing it's gonna be a pain in the ass and a skim coat like you're describing could be the only option, but I just can't see it taking less time to remove it unless it's freak paper with a super glue.
> 
> I can't imagine unless the stuff was tenaciously adhered somehow removal would be that difficult, unless it's been painted over. I've also never used Gardz for wallpaper glue, just plain oil primers. However, now due to VOC laws oil is expensive and pointless, so I'm trying to switch to BIN for most oil uses.
> 
> I just say this as I have a really bad taste in my mouth from one job where people did paint over wallpaper, with dating from the 1940s. A lot started to peel up, and I had to feather in peeling wallpaper that they thought was peeling paint. One of my first experiences of someone going "**** it, leave it for the next guy." To be fair I must have been 50+ years later, but still.


Removing wallpaper is best practice yes, however it's always a roll of the dice how easy it will come off. Most likely you will still have to prime and skim anyhow.
So I will have to disagree that taking it off is quicker. All situational of course, but the client is pushing for it. I see no issue with it if it's sound..

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## kmp

The project I did was wall covering over cheap trailer type paneling that had been skimmed and removing the paper would have required as much or more work to fix. The owners were fine with the result and getting rid of the old paper would have been a nightmare.


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## Tprice2193

Trailer wallpaper is much different thing than your normal wallpaper removal job. If you remove it you will do damage to the substrate which is not very thick and you will have to skim coat it. You were right @kmp it is a freaking nightmare that I will never do again. Cheap sh?? to begin with.


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## Mr Smith

Yes, you can skim coat wallpaper but seal it first with an oil based primer.

I'm not sure if Gardz would work?


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## Brushman4

celicaxx said:


> I've been pretty lucky in all my wallpaper jobs that removal was pretty painless. Score it with the little wheel with teeth thing on plaster, or sometimes try to pull the glossy stuff off first when dealing with drywall, then just use a garden sprayer with hot water and a good taping knife. It didn't take over a couple of hours per room, and my amount of gouges on drywall was minimal, and plaster was none, just a few tiny cracks by windows. I might just be lucky, but it wasn't over 2-3 hours per room for removal. I'd think time and materials for a hawk and trowel skim coat and a shellac priming would be a lot more than just removing it, admittedly I'm a slow skim coater/plasterer, though. Then your skim coat would suck more paint and/or would need a primer of a latex primer anyway. Seems like a lot more work. If it's already painted over, likely removing it's gonna be a pain in the ass and a skim coat like you're describing could be the only option, but I just can't see it taking less time to remove it unless it's freak paper with a super glue.
> 
> I can't imagine unless the stuff was tenaciously adhered somehow removal would be that difficult, unless it's been painted over. I've also never used Gardz for wallpaper glue, just plain oil primers. However, now due to VOC laws oil is expensive and pointless, so I'm trying to switch to BIN for most oil uses.
> 
> I just say this as I have a really bad taste in my mouth from one job where people did paint over wallpaper, with dating from the 1940s. A lot started to peel up, and I had to feather in peeling wallpaper that they thought was peeling paint. One of my first experiences of someone going "**** it, leave it for the next guy." To be fair I must have been 50+ years later, but still.


The key phrase in your quote, I've been pretty lucky, explains it all. Sooner or later the luck will run out and then it will be time to pay the piper!


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## Woodco

Gardz will work, but it is waterbased, so it may cause bubbling at first, but once its on and dry, its sealed tight.. 

To the OP, keep in mind, they make a lot of wallpaper easier to remove nowadays. At least give it a chance to come off. If its a non-woven, and the walls were primed right, it will come off in full sheets.


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## mdZX

Thanks Woodco!

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## Brushman4

Woodco said:


> Gardz will work, but it is waterbased, so it may cause bubbling at first, but once its on and dry, its sealed tight..
> 
> To the OP, keep in mind, they make a lot of wallpaper easier to remove nowadays. At least give it a chance to come off. If its a non-woven, and the walls were primed right, it will come off in full sheets.


Wood, you're assuming a lot, how can you assume the walls were primed properly?


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## finishesbykevyn

Mr Smith said:


> Yes, you can skim coat wallpaper but seal it first with an oil based primer.
> 
> I'm not sure if Gardz would work?


Ya, oil primer is good too, but will smell your whole house up and burn the eyes out of your head.
Gardz was designed for that. I've done whole houses with it with great success..

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## Holland

imo it is never advisable to paint over wallpaper. 

1. The main reason for saying this, is that if the homeowner EVER wants to remove the wallpaper in the future, painting over it will make it about 10x more difficult to do that. 

2. There is no guarantee that painting over wallpaper will not CAUSE some problems. 

3. Doesn't look great.



*(removal doesn't not have to be difficult - usually. I would caution against using a scoring wheel, as another poster suggested. It damages the wall, and actually makes it more difficult to remove the paper. Instead, use a pump sprayer and soak paper until it releases easily.)


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## Woodco

Brushman4 said:


> Wood, you're assuming a lot, how can you assume the walls were primed properly?


You dont assume it. You test a small area.


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## Woodco

Holland said:


> imo it is never advisable to paint over wallpaper.
> 
> 1. The main reason for saying this, is that if the homeowner EVER wants to remove the wallpaper in the future, painting over it will make it about 10x more difficult to do that.
> 
> 2. There is no guarantee that painting over wallpaper will not CAUSE some problems.
> 
> 3. Doesn't look great.
> 
> 
> 
> *(removal doesn't not have to be difficult - usually. I would caution against using a scoring wheel, as another poster suggested. It damages the wall, and actually makes it more difficult to remove the paper. Instead, use a pump sprayer and soak paper until it releases easily.)


I call BS on the scoring wheel damaging the wall. As long as you dont press hard, it leaves no marks on the wall whatsoever. I dont see how you think it would make it more difficult either...


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## Holland

Woodco said:


> I call BS on the scoring wheel damaging the wall. As long as you dont press hard, it leaves no marks on the wall whatsoever. I dont see how you think it would make it more difficult either...


Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).

I will concede that the wheel _*shouldn't*_ damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?


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## finishesbykevyn

Holland said:


> Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).
> 
> I will concede that the wheel _*shouldn't*_ damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?


Scoring the paper with the tiger wheel is only for when it doesn't come off in full sheets. The idea is to then score and soak so the water gets in behind the outer layer.
Then use a scraper and remove both outer and inner layers at the same time.. 
I've been removing wallpaper since the 90's and trust me every situation is different..
But at the same time, they all suck.
I don't get too sentimental about whether someone may or may not want it removed in the future. If it's super sound, and going to be a royal pain in the ass to get off. Fine, prime it and paint it.
It may be just as fast to tear the wall out and re drywall if one decides in the future..#.seenitall#



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## Woodco

Holland said:


> Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).
> 
> I will concede that the wheel _*shouldn't*_ damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?


No, I havent. I use ZERO pressure. The wheels are sharp as hell. All you need to do is TOUCH it to the surface. I look really hard at the wall, and dont see anything at all. And if I did... I'd prime it with 123. Its thick enough that it would fill the micro holes anyway.

You only need to do it it the paper is vinyl coated, in which case scoring is not gonna make the paper tear. In my book, The dryer the underside of the paper is, the easier its gonna tear. You cant get the backside of the paper wet without scoring it. 

The last few I've done, I pull it down dry, the best I can dry. Wwhatever doesnt, I take the paper tiger, and using NO pressure at all, just run it over the entire surface, spray it down, stick some plastic on the wall to keep it wet, wait, and it comes off like butter.


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## jennifertemple

Woodco said:


> I call BS on the scoring wheel damaging the wall. As long as you dont press hard, it leaves no marks on the wall whatsoever. I dont see how you think it would make it more difficult either...



Clearly, it depends on how heavy the hand that works the wheel. :wink:


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## Holland




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## Redux

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJsn6La23nI#fauxfullscreen


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## AngieM

Since no one has said it yet... I'd like to correct the OP. It's not glue. It's Paste. 

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## finishesbykevyn

Alchemy Redux said:


> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJsn6La23nI#fauxfullscreen


Holy crap! Now that is pretty cool. 

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## Redux

finishesbykevyn said:


> Holy crap! Now that is pretty cool.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


I like how it tore through the skim coated and painted canvas lining on the ceiling. Any painters or paper hangers that have been around a while might recall the canvas lining (Sanitas) used for resurfacing old plaster, or the heavier woven fabric faced/vinyl cloth-like backed liners by Wall Over & Wall Cover, pre-dating fiberglass mesh fabric. 

Pretty much all painters back then were expected to have basic hanging skills, canvas lining installations over plaster were a common task performed by painters. I’ve done quite a few in my time and removals as well.

Many times when painting old plaster you might encounter what appears to be wallpaper that’s been skim coated and painted over. Chances are it’s not, rather, it’s more likely one of the repair liners.


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## Brushman4

Alchemy Redux said:


> I like how it tore through the skim coated and painted canvas lining on the ceiling. Any painters or paper hangers that have been around a while might recall the canvas lining (Sanitas) used for resurfacing old plaster, or the heavier woven fabric faced/vinyl cloth-like backed liners by Wall Over & Wall Cover, pre-dating fiberglass mesh fabric.
> 
> Pretty much all painters back then were expected to have basic hanging skills, canvas lining installations over plaster were a common task performed by painters. I’ve done quite a few in my time and removals as well.
> 
> Many times when painting old plaster you might encounter what appears to be wallpaper that’s been skim coated and painted over. Chances are it’s not, rather, it’s more likely one of the repair liners.


I'm very familiar with old plaster walls lined in canvas, I used to paint this elderly ladies two flat and the first time I painted the ceilings there were hundreds of bubbles hanging down. Anyway, I stopped and went out for lunch and when I got back they all sucked back down. The ceiling was old plaster with a liner and some of the paint must have gotten under it until it went away after drying.


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## Brushman4

Alchemy Redux said:


> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJsn6La23nI#fauxfullscreen


New technology, still looks extremely messy.

Now for the latest German Tech for taping, sanding, and priming wallboard, All operations are performed by some invisible robot or something. Gotta get me one of these!


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## Redux

Brushman4 said:


> New technology, still looks extremely messy.
> 
> Now for the latest German Tech for taping, sanding, and priming wallboard, All operations are performed by some invisible robot or something. Gotta get me one of these! Das Knauf System Uniflott - YouTube


I’ve used a similar UK system called AntiCrack which is a dry mix setting type compound composed of a fiber/resin reinforced gypsum based material, eliminating the need for joint tape and designed for plaster board applications or complete over wall repairs/base coating. It’s pretty much fail-proof when applied to spec. It’s however not available to the trade, a member’s only/partner applicator type product...and doesn’t meet building codes here in the states due to drywall taping/jointing requirements for level 1 drywall designations..tape must be used for domestic applications sort of killing the entire tapeless concept.


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## Vinyl 54X

Try to take 2 free steps forward and wind up taking 5 extra steps back. Putty coat over wallpaper, Whether vinyl, paper or fabric. it will pop even with the best primers. Maybe not the whole substrate, But areas will eventually spiderweb and crack and then lift usually around the edges. Hanging wallpaper back over skim coated wallpaper is a big no no. and people should know better. And paint is a 50/50 crapshoot. If you didn't want to remove the wallpaper your really not gonna want to with primer and a skim coat on it. Skim coating over is a can of worms you don't want.


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## mdZX

It all pulled off easily except the corner below the light switch and behind the tools.









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## Vinyl 54X

There is a product from scotch paints called draw tite. It's a good sealer it will suck down any bubbles in the drywall paper and will solidify any paste or adhesives perfect for what you got there. Good luck.


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## mdZX

Vinyl 54X said:


> There is a product from scotch paints called draw tite. It's a good sealer it will suck down any bubbles in the drywall paper and will solidify any paste or adhesives perfect for what you got there. Good luck.[/quote @Vinyl 54X , thanks for the tip. I didnt really want to roll on watery BIN shellac primer. I'll see if its available locally somwwheres?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Woodco

Gardz is a slightly less quality and cheaper version of draw tite, FYI. I dont know the difference between them though....


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## Benni.shade89

Never skim coat over wallpaper,
Having said that it will be look good if you do for few years UNTILL the glow start to degrade.

You might find detailed answer in here:
https://elpainters.com.au


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## jennifertemple

Alchemy Redux said:


> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJsn6La23nI#fauxfullscreen


WOW! Love it.


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## Lightningboy65

In my area we have a lot of older Victorian homes . Not uncommon to encounter multiple layers of wallpaper. I swear some of these papers were installed with horse hoof glue, not paste. These houses are well over 100 years old. About the toughest paper removal you'll ever see. Always used a propane steamer on these. It was the only thing that worked, and generally worked quite well.


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## Mr Smith

Lightningboy65 said:


> In my area we have a lot of older Victorian homes . Not uncommon to encounter multiple layers of wallpaper. I swear some of these papers were installed with horse hoof glue, not paste. These houses are well over 100 years old. About the toughest paper removal you'll ever see. Always used a propane steamer on these. It was the only thing that worked, and generally worked quite well.


Can you recommend a good brand of propane steamer?


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## Lightningboy65

Mr Smith said:


> Can you recommend a good brand of propane steamer?


I sold mine when I retired a couple of years ago. I bought it second hand about 30 years ago, and it was probably 20 years old then. I don't recall the brand, the only writing on the unit was on a small metal plate that I never bothered to read. I believe the design and concept is still in use on modern steamers. Basically a 5 gal reservoir sitting on top of a propane burner. There is a heavy lead plug in the top of the reservoir that acts as a pressure regulator. A hose then runs to a cookie sheet sized perforated steam head. Hold steam head on wall a minute or so, paper lifts right off. Hot and messy, but effective. I've never used any of the electric steamers , but I doubt they are as effective as the propane ones.

Pretty basic concept and simple machine, so I imagine brand name is not too important. If it looks and feels heavy duty, it's probably a good one. I would expect to pay close to $1,000 dollars for a good one new. If I recall correctly I sold my used machine for $300, and that was a good deal.


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## Brushman4

Lightningboy65 said:


> In my area we have a lot of older Victorian homes . Not uncommon to encounter multiple layers of wallpaper. I swear some of these papers were installed with horse hoof glue, not paste. These houses are well over 100 years old. About the toughest paper removal you'll ever see. Always used a propane steamer on these. It was the only thing that worked, and generally worked quite well.


I just never liked using them, it was like working in a steam room all day, not to mention the feeling of water running down your arm into your pits!


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## Lightningboy65

Brushman4 said:


> I just never liked using them, it was like working in a steam room all day, not to mention the feeling of water running down your arm into your pits!


But you always know it will get the job done quickly!


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## Brushman4

Lightningboy65 said:


> But you always know it will get the job done quickly!


Not quickly enough for my tastes!


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## Redux

Lightningboy65 said:


> I sold mine when I retired a couple of years ago. I bought it second hand about 30 years ago, and it was probably 20 years old then. I don't recall the brand, the only writing on the unit was on a small metal plate that I never bothered to read. I believe the design and concept is still in use on modern steamers. Basically a 5 gal reservoir sitting on top of a propane burner. There is a heavy lead plug in the top of the reservoir that acts as a pressure regulator. A hose then runs to a cookie sheet sized perforated steam head. Hold steam head on wall a minute or so, paper lifts right off. Hot and messy, but effective. I've never used any of the electric steamers , but I doubt they are as effective as the propane ones.
> 
> Pretty basic concept and simple machine, so I imagine brand name is not too important. If it looks and feels heavy duty, it's probably a good one. I would expect to pay close to $1,000 dollars for a good one new. If I recall correctly I sold my used machine for $300, and that was a good deal.



Propane steamer is the way to go..
Check out video of removal over bare drywall with propane steamer..


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## Lightningboy65

Brushman4 said:


> Not quickly enough for my tastes!


I too, would rather look at the wall and have the paper fall off or simply disappear. This only happens when I bring my unicorn along to help!:biggrin:


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## Brushman4

Lightningboy65 said:


> I too, would rather look at the wall and have the paper fall off or simply disappear. This only happens when I bring my unicorn along to help!:biggrin:


The next time I encounter a PITA removal job, can I please borrow him or her?:biggrin:


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## kmp

I bought a wagner steamer years ago that works well. Holds a gallon or so of water and has a 10"x12" or so steam head, also has a smaller head for tight areas. For the amount of removal I do, thankfully not much, it has been real handy.


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## Lightningboy65

The propane steamers have several size heads available, including fairly small ones.


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## Mike S

Sorry to jump on an old thread, but you guys seem to know what you are talking about here... So I recently started stripping old peeling painted wallpaper from my bathroom. I thought I was dealing with one layer of painted wallpaper - I couldnt have been more wrong. I have discovered that under this, there is at least 3 other layers of wallpaper, probably dating back to the 1950's (at least), and there are parts that appear to have been skim coated too. In short, it's a total mismatch of different types of materials.

In some parts, I have been able to get right down to the original wall, and in other parts it seems nigh on impossible with incredibly strong adhesive used on what appear to be the original paper - it looks like somebody attempted to get of what they could and then just skim coat/paint/paper over the top. Some parts of the current layer of painted on paper are actually adhered really well too. In short, from looking at the photos provided, would I be able to simple lift what is coming away easily and then sand/seal/skimcoat the gaps, or should I be looking to remove absolutely everything and skim the whole lot?

I have seen conflicting advise online, some guys seem to think I can just prep and skim coat the gaps, sand the lot and paint, and others seem to think I should be removing absolutely everything. I know which I'd rather do, but I also want to do the job properly. I have done plenty of simple painting/filling work on property in the past, but nothing with quite so much history under the walls so to speak, so I just wanted to get some other opinions before I continue. Any help would be massively appreciated!

Cheers guys


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

Mike S said:


> *I have seen conflicting advise online, some guys seem to think I can just prep and skim coat the gaps, sand the lot and paint, and others seem to think I should be removing absolutely everything. I know which I'd rather do, but I also want to do the job properly.* I have done plenty of simple painting/filling work on property in the past, but nothing with quite so much history under the walls so to speak, so I just wanted to get some other opinions before I continue. Any help would be massively appreciated!
> Cheers guys


You see conflicting advice online because no 2 old homes are the same. Look at your home and note the layers of paint. 
Now think about whether they're Lead-Based, Oil-Based, Latex/Acrylic, or other. 
Next, try to determine exactly how much preparation was done before each successive coat. 
After that, ascertain whether or not the applicator of each new coat followed proper recommendations by manufacturer as far as paint thickness, dry-times, etc. 
Once that's finished, consider what percentage of the surface is failing, and where the failure is in regards to the layers of product on the substrate. 
Oh, and make sure to take into account potential effects caused by any roof or plumbing leaks, insufficient venting from HVAC, miscellaneous surface contamination, etc...

*Can you do this in your own home that you know better than anybody else in the world? * *No, you can't.* * I couldn't either, so don't feel bad.* What works for some might not work for others, depending upon the infinite variables from the past which is rarely identical to the person seeking answers from others off the internet.

As a general rule, if the coating is in tact, you can proceed. If not, the failed portion must first be removed. 

If you're not a professional painter, please post your question at www.DIYChatroom.com. If you're not already a member of _DIYChatroom.com_ you can sign up for a free account by going to Register. Many of our members here are also members there, so you should be able to get some further assistance. Good luck.


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## Mike S

Thanks for such a quick response. I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't a definite no no to skim the gaps - as you stated, the failed portions will all be removed for sure. However the rest (about 80% of the wall) isnt bubbling or anything, it all feels very in tact to be honest which I why I wanted to confirm it wasnt a one case fits all situation. I feel pretty confident that filling the gaps properly will be sufficient - I will join the other forum though, as I am not a professional painter at all. Thanks again.


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## Holland

Mike S said:


> Sorry to jump on an old thread, but you guys seem to know what you are talking about here... So I recently started stripping old peeling painted wallpaper from my bathroom. I thought I was dealing with one layer of painted wallpaper - I couldnt have been more wrong. I have discovered that under this, there is at least 3 other layers of wallpaper, probably dating back to the 1950's (at least), and there are parts that appear to have been skim coated too. In short, it's a total mismatch of different types of materials.
> 
> In some parts, I have been able to get right down to the original wall, and in other parts it seems nigh on impossible with incredibly strong adhesive used on what appear to be the original paper - it looks like somebody attempted to get of what they could and then just skim coat/paint/paper over the top. Some parts of the current layer of painted on paper are actually adhered really well too. In short, from looking at the photos provided, would I be able to simple lift what is coming away easily and then sand/seal/skimcoat the gaps, or should I be looking to remove absolutely everything and skim the whole lot?
> 
> I have seen conflicting advise online, some guys seem to think I can just prep and skim coat the gaps, sand the lot and paint, and others seem to think I should be removing absolutely everything. I know which I'd rather do, but I also want to do the job properly. I have done plenty of simple painting/filling work on property in the past, but nothing with quite so much history under the walls so to speak, so I just wanted to get some other opinions before I continue. Any help would be massively appreciated!
> 
> Cheers guys


once wallpaper is painted in my opinion it is not removable anymore. 
quarter inch drywall would be the right way to re-do that room (imo), then plaster and paint. 

Or (the bandaid fix): 
1. seal raw/damaged areas with Gardz
2. Plaster (joint compound) skim damaged areas to correct surface
3. Prime fresh plaster
4. Paint


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## celicaxx

Bethbg said:


> Hi all
> My first time in this site I hope I’m posting on the correct spot
> We bought a home built in 1856
> Slowly remodeling it Most wallpaper came off because it was 4-6 layers
> Hot water steam and that scratch tool did the job.
> BUT... I have the hallway it has paper that seems to have melded to the horse hair plaster as we try to remove it the plaster comes with it not sure how to remove it??? Suggestion welcome!
> Was going to skim over it but it has (ugly) velvet raised flowers so not sure if I can????


It's wrong, as this is a professional forum only, not for homeowners or DIYers. 

If you skim coat over the wallpaper it is kicking the problem down the road. How many years, who knows. Could last beyond your life, could be peeling again in 2-3 years. 

If you remove the wallpaper you might need more than a fabric steamer but a sort of professional gas fired one. But even then, I don't know how much the plaster is falling off, you're probably still going to need a real plasterer to fix it all. If the plaster is coming off a half inch thick directly off the lath, it means its lost its mechanical key in that spot. If the wallpaper glue and plaster has mixed, and it is a sound surface without moving cracks/falling off chunks of plaster, and it's just a rough surface, instead of just skimcoating it you might want a traditional two coat plaster system with a basecoat designed to be applied thick, and then a veneer, and not just layers and layers of joint compound as a skim coat. 





This dude has probably the best plastering channel on Youtube. But in your case if you want a longterm solution it will probably end up being hiring a plasterer or new sheetrock in the room (not as good of an option in some ways, as old houses had wonky framing as the plasterer was expected to straighten the walls.) Obviously you can DIY plaster, but it's not a common trade in USA anymore and takes some natural talent or a lot of practice to get good, much moreso than painting imo. You can't sand it after like normal joint compound. 

Anyway, mods will direct you to the sister DIY site.


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## Bethbg

celicaxx said:


> It's wrong, as this is a professional forum only, not for homeowners or DIYers.
> 
> If you skim coat over the wallpaper it is kicking the problem down the road. How many years, who knows. Could last beyond your life, could be peeling again in 2-3 years.
> 
> If you remove the wallpaper you might need more than a fabric steamer but a sort of professional gas fired one. But even then, I don't know how much the plaster is falling off, you're probably still going to need a real plasterer to fix it all. If the plaster is coming off a half inch thick directly off the lath, it means its lost its mechanical key in that spot. If the wallpaper glue and plaster has mixed, and it is a sound surface without moving cracks/falling off chunks of plaster, and it's just a rough surface, instead of just skimcoating it you might want a traditional two coat plaster system with a basecoat designed to be applied thick, and then a veneer, and not just layers and layers of joint compound as a skim coat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This dude has probably the best plastering channel on Youtube. But in your case if you want a longterm solution it will probably end up being hiring a plasterer or new sheetrock in the room (not as good of an option in some ways, as old houses had wonky framing as the plasterer was expected to straighten the walls.) Obviously you can DIY plaster, but it's not a common trade in USA anymore and takes some natural talent or a lot of practice to get good, much moreso than painting imo. You can't sand it after like normal joint compound.
> 
> Anyway, mods will direct you to the sister DIY site.


Thank You for the info 
I wasn’t expecting this to be easy nothing has been easy on this house! I love it ( it has beautiful bones) but every job has been like opening can of worms why did I think this would be easy or cheap LOL


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

Bethbg said:


> Thank You for the info
> I wasn’t expecting this to be easy nothing has been easy on this house! I love it ( it has beautiful bones) but every job has been like opening can of worms why did I think this would be easy or cheap LOL


Feel free to comb through our archives for any/all info you need. There's a ton of gold in there, but it does take some digging to find usually. If you're not a professional painter, please post future questions at www.DIYChatroom.com. If you're not already a member of _DIYChatroom.com_ you can sign up for a free account by going to Register. Many of our members here are also members there, so you should be able to get some further assistance. Good luck.


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## celicaxx

Bethbg said:


> Thank You for the info
> I wasn’t expecting this to be easy nothing has been easy on this house! I love it ( it has beautiful bones) but every job has been like opening can of worms why did I think this would be easy or cheap LOL


Definitely watch some of Kirk's videos, though, to see what you're getting into. He's a very funny guy and a great and kind teacher, too.


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