# Painting Pre-hung Doors



## ezpaintks

Have a customer who has 31 pre-hung doors, with stained trim. The doors are preprimed but have all the hardware. I was thinking about spraying the doors. However, I'm thinking it would be just as fast to brush, roll and not removing all the hardware. Any opinions out there? 

I'm working solo on this job.


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## Workaholic

How much experience do you have?

What are you putting on them?


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## BC_Painter

:whistling2:


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## brushmonkey

Make a spray booth in the garage or somewhere big enough to hold 10-32 doors that's empty. Take all the hardware off including hinges, take doors off jambs, check doors for any defects in the primer ( bumps, scratches, dings etc) after any prep turn down your sprayer & shoot on 2 even coats of product (allow 1st coat to dry overnight) brushing them out as needed. reassemble & install. PITA but that's the nature of the beast.:yes:

Ready? here it comes....:whistling2:


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## Rcon

I bet wolf is going to love this one. :jester:


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## ezpaintks

Thanks for the replies. I have only be painting for 5 years and 3 of them have been by myself. Of course, I have painted many doors but never had this many at one time. I'm using ProClassic- Laytex, customer asked for that product. They seem to be in a hurry to get this done but, it seems they will have to just wait it out a couple extra days.


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## straight_lines

Get as many of these that you will need and it will make you life much easier. Some stores may sell ones made for this that can be driven into the tops of the doors, but you can find these everywhere. You still haven't said what kinda doors these are.


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## Schmidt & Co.

straight_lines said:


> Get as many of these that you will need and it will make you life much easier. Some stores may sell ones made for this that can be driven into the tops of the doors, but you can find these everywhere. You still haven't said what kinda doors these are.


I've used those in the past also. Would recomend using TWO screws in each door. They can twist when set up like that......


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## NEPS.US

Tip 1: Learn how to spell laytex before starting a painting bizzenezz.


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## NEPS.US

I've heard that painting the entire door with a 1" sash is the fastest way to do a project like this.


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## brushmonkey

I choked on my cocktail! LOL :thumbup:


NEPS.US said:


> I've heard that painting the entire door with a 1" sash is the fastest way to do a project like this.


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## Workaholic

NEPS.US said:


> I've heard that painting the entire door with a 1" sash is the fastest way to do a project like this.


That is missleading it is suppose to be a 1-1/2 and to back brush with the 1" to make it look sprayed.


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## ezpaintks

straight_lines said:


> Get as many of these that you will need and it will make you life much easier. Some stores may sell ones made for this that can be driven into the tops of the doors, but you can find these everywhere. You still haven't said what kinda doors these are.


 
Straight Lines- Thanks for the idea! 
They are masonite interior doors


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## chrisn

Rcon said:


> I bet wolf is going to love this one. :jester:


 
I am betting that he is as sick of these DIY's as the rest of us and will not respond, which I think is a good idea and one that I am going to work on, with the exception of Mr Mike's tirades.


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## johnthepainter

youll have huge curtains of proclassic wb running down those doors if you havnt done this often, and it doesnt sand easily, if at all


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## ezpaintks

chrisn said:


> I am betting that he is as sick of these DIY's as the rest of us and will not respond, which I think is a good idea and one that I am going to work on, with the exception of Mr Mike's tirades.


 
I wasn't able to respond because I was working on a job. Though I probably don't have as much experience as some of you, that doesn't mean I am incapable. I just like to get opinions on what is the most efficient way of doing something while maintaining a quality finished result. Atleast I am trying not to be the "bad apple" in the bunch, who may give some of us (painters) a bad name.


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## NCPaint1

Masonite doors that most likely have a grain texture. You can paint those type of doors with a broom and they look good.


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## straight_lines

Yea masonite should be really easy to do mate. Just set them up like in that pic in a closed area and spray. Wait and shoot a second coat, then rehang them. Easy money.


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## Wolfgang

Man....just when you think you got the rat race beat, they come out with faster rats....oh well. Spray the buggers!

"5 years" and you gotta ask???


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## Wolfgang

I cant let this go. 

*If* you're a Pro, you'll know you'll need to remove all hardware to do a quality _professional _job.

*If* you've done doors before, you'll know not to spray over the factory "primer" and expect lasting _professional_ results.

*If *you have 5 years of experience and 3 years on your own, you'll know that the fastest, most cost effective way is to spray them. Especially if you're doing them by yourself.

*If *you are in fact all of the above, you shouldn't have to ask these types of questions at this point in your professional life.

What can I say?....it's an *"iffy" *world.


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## bikerboy

:boxing:


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## Wolfgang

:wheelchair:


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## straight_lines

Not to say you are wrong wolfgang but this guy posted here for help, and our opinions. Not everyone is an expert in every aspect, he could have done repaints his whole career and not know the best and most efficient way to complete this job yet still be a top notch painter.

The elitist attitude some of the members have here is sicking to me, and I think some of you think more highly of yourselves than you should. This is about the fifth or six post in this thread that has served no other purpose than to berate the op, and inflate the fragile egos of some of the members here. 

You guys need to get a life, or better yet get off the computer and get to work. I think some of you have forgotten where it is you came from, and all of you where in this guys shoes at least one time in your career unless you were born into the business.


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## NEPS.US

There will always be a few people that think this should be a forum in which people can come and learn the basic tools on how to paint. I dont think it has to do with anyone here pumping up their ego's or having a elitist attitude but more a frustration of the trade. In this economy more than ever, new painting companies are springing up. Why? Probably because you dont need a licence and everybody can paint. Right? Painting a pre primed masonite door just might be the easiest thing a painter can do. If the individual was only a residential painter then he should know how to paint a door. Baby steps. If he doesnt know how to paint the door then how did he price it? If he didnt know how to price it then what legitimate contractor did he undercut to get the work?

Maybe a rating system for members experience could be added. We could have a kiddie pool forum where the newbies can go and swim and not have to worry about being bitten by the sharks. There they can go and share advice on how to paint a door and how not to spray laquer over painter trim.


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## Ladypainter34

straight_lines said:


> Get as many of these that you will need and it will make you life much easier. Some stores may sell ones made for this that can be driven into the tops of the doors, but you can find these everywhere. You still haven't said what kinda doors these are.


 

You can also use the metal strips that brick layers nail on the outside of the house before they brick it. I dont know what they are called in the biz but they are about 4in long and they are free, brick layers leave them laying around all the time. Then if they get left behind on the job, just pick up some more later. Just make sure the screws are screwed down tight on each one. :yes:


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## NEPS.US

Ladypainter34 said:


> You can also use the metal strips that brick layers nail on the outside of the house before they brick it. I dont know what they are called in the biz but they are about 4in long and they are free, brick layers leave them laying around all the time. Then if they get left behind on the job, just pick up some more later. Just make sure the screws are screwed down tight on each one. :yes:


Also HVAC guys use similar strips with tacks on the ends. Cheap and work great.


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## RCP

So when do you paint the tops and bottoms of the doors when you do it like that?


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## NEPS.US

We do it before they are tacked standing up.


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## ezpaintks

IF, I ever had the experience of doing more than 5 or 6 I wouldn't have asked the questions.

With that said, I'm greatful to those of you who don't mind anwsering questions for those of us who never had anyone "teach"/show what are some of the best methods. 

I guess we "pro's" wouldn't have this site going IF we all knew everything.

As for the job, it is going smoother than I expected. Thanks to all that have helped a fellow pro out!


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## BC_Painter

RCP said:


> So when do you paint the tops and bottoms of the doors when you do it like that?


We are supposed to paint the tops and bottoms!! WTF?


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## Workaholic

BC_Painter said:


> We are supposed to paint the tops and bottoms!! WTF?


Voids warranties on a lot of doors if they are not done.


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## painttofish

6 sides or your accountable.......


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## BC_Painter

I was kidding... I do all 6 sides, but 99% of doors I repaint have bare tops and bottoms hence the remark 

I especially like when you're going down a staircase and the top of your white doors are light brown, real pro :thumbsup:

I've had a few times when H/O's check the USUAL skipped things like that and have been pretty happy:thumbup:

I never knew it voided the warranty, I just figured it was good practice to prevent moisture damage:blink:


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## NCPaint1

Workaholic said:


> Voids warranties on a lot of doors if they are not done.


On interior doors? I figured exterior, but never thought interior doors :blink:


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## Schmidt & Co.

Workaholic said:


> Voids warranties on a lot of doors if they are not done.


We paint all six sides on *new *doors for that very reason. But on existing homes (our average is 75 years old) we skip it because I don't want them binding at the top. Of course we paint the tops if they are visible from a staircase etc.

On that subject...... I cant tell you how many times I've painted an older door (50 plus years) and noticed that the tops and bottoms were _not _painted, and never had been! And they seemed to be just fine. Now these were solid wood doors. No MDF here........


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## NEPS.US

Schmidt & Co. said:


> We paint all six sides on *new *doors for that very reason. But on existing homes (our average is 75 years old) we skip it because I don't want them binding at the top. Of course we paint the tops if they are visible from a staircase etc.
> 
> On that subject...... I cant tell you how many times I've painted an older door (50 plus years) and noticed that the tops and bottoms were _not _painted, and never had been! And they seemed to be just fine. Now these were solid wood doors. No MDF here........


Same here. I dont think it really makes a difference. 

We had a nice little extra on a 10 unit (new) building last fall where all of the 6 panel masonite doors had bad glue and popped. (the tops and bottoms were painted by us) We had to paint and install new ones in each unit on the millwork companies tab. 145 doors.


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## Schmidt & Co.

Yep..... I paint the tops and bottoms of new doors because thats what is expected for a professional job. It's supposed to seal the door and keep moisture out. But I still say its going to assume the relative humidity of the room its in!!!


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## johnpaint

Even if you do end up brush and roll its always best and faster to remove the door knobs. That way you can just roll over the knob hole. Also just use the roller to get the paint on the door, finish it out with a good brush.This is where you can't beat around the bush.


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## straight_lines

NEPS.US said:


> There will always be a few people that think this should be a forum in which people can come and learn the basic tools on how to paint. I dont think it has to do with anyone here pumping up their ego's or having a elitist attitude but more a frustration of the trade. In this economy more than ever, new painting companies are springing up. Why? Probably because you dont need a licence and everybody can paint. Right? Painting a pre primed masonite door just might be the easiest thing a painter can do. If the individual was only a residential painter then he should know how to paint a door. Baby steps. If he doesnt know how to paint the door then how did he price it? If he didnt know how to price it then what legitimate contractor did he undercut to get the work?
> 
> Maybe a rating system for members experience could be added. We could have a kiddie pool forum where the newbies can go and swim and not have to worry about being bitten by the sharks. There they can go and share advice on how to paint a door and how not to spray laquer over painter trim.


 All of that isn't the point. If you don't feel they are worthy to answer the post then don't. No need to come in only to belittle someone. If I owned this site I sure as hell wouldn't let people do that, the more members and posters this site has the better for the owners. Making posts like that only will run people away.

Honestly if you had never done NC, or a job with enough doors to even think about spraying them how would you know the best way to get it done? 

Posting to mock someone that knows less than you do is pointless, and isn't gonna help your business if these illegitimate contractors are eating your lunch.


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## BC_Painter

NEPS.US said:


> Same here. I dont think it really makes a difference.
> 
> We had a nice little extra on a 10 unit (new) building last fall where all of the 6 panel masonite doors had bad glue and popped. (the tops and bottoms were painted by us) We had to paint and install new ones in each unit on the millwork companies tab. 145 doors.


Nice! Must have been a fun call to get :thumbsup:


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## jack pauhl

31 doors will take about 1 hour 30 mins to remove hardware and mark. Figure more time to move doors to a new location and you'll need 30 mins to set them up using system shown in earlier posts with a helper.

31 doors needs a good deal of space. You can zig-zag 2 rows, see pic and get about half of them in one row in a 24' garage. Keep them tight and make the second row so you have enough space for spraying them.










You'll need 5-6 gallons of paint (probably 5) using a 311 tip. Masonite sucks up the first coat so do be afraid to candy coat the first coat.

I cant remember if Pro Classic is a tacky paint when its cured but maybe someone can answer that for you. SW 200 will never dry hard and will stick on the jambs which leads to call-backs.

No primer needed to go over factory but you do need two coats to hold gloss so its no different if one of the coats is primer and the other finish.

Be sure when the doors are standing that you get the top primed with something so its not bare. If you grab a pack of shims you can hold a door while another guy uses a 4" roller and roll primer on the bottom then set the door on shims before you tack or screw the tops together.

Trick question: Whats the best way to paint a front door?


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## NEPS.US

What about the bottom of the doors Ralph?


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## Msargent

There is a time and a place for spraying doors and unless its NC at a cheap price Nothing is like a brushed door done correctly. Top and bottoms done for warranty of doors.


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## vermontpainter

Come on guys, those rules do not apply to Jack Raulph.


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## NEPS.US

Those screw should be further back at the center of the last 2 inches of the door. There is a solid block at the end that if screwed into will not ruin the integrity of the door. The middle is just a thin piece of wood (MDF) and once it is punctured moisture can get inside and void the warranty.


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## Rcon

jack pauhl said:


> 31 doors needs a good deal of space. You can zig-zag 2 rows, see pic and get about half of them in one row in a 24' garage. Keep them tight and make the second row so you have enough space for spraying them.


I don't like to set up doors that way. I've seen them fold up like an accordian and destroy dozens of doors by someone accidentaly bumping them. 

It's safer to set them up in a T pattern, though it does take up a little more space.


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## vermontpainter

If you were painting faster than a speeding locomotive you would not have time to worry about potential collapses, compromising the structural integrity of the doors, creating vapor penetration points, or voiding the warranty. You would be done so fast, none of this would matter. You too may prefer to not let your real name be known to anyone.


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## jack pauhl

NEPS.US said:


> What about the bottom of the doors Ralph?


I didnt leave painting the bottoms out. Its in the post.


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## jack pauhl

NEPS.US said:


> Those screw should be further back at the center of the last 2 inches of the door. There is a solid block at the end that if screwed into will not ruin the integrity of the door. The middle is just a thin piece of wood (MDF) and once it is punctured moisture can get inside and void the warranty.


I havent seen real wood on a masonite door in years NEPS. There is NO WOOD on the doors I posted a pic of.


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## jack pauhl

Alec, got that right. If you take another glance at the photo I posted you'll notice they arent 90'd, more like a v 

I like the shims because they add a bit of bite when nailed tight against all that rough mdf. I use one nail because I want fast setup and tear down but they can be moved or bumped but you would really have to hit it hard to get them to come down. Guy I work with pulled the shop vac into the last door and all it did was close up.


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## painting247

I stood my doors accordian style and sprayed, and sprayed and sprayed.......BTW, I am STILL ON THIS JOB


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## Rcon

painting247 said:


> I stood my doors accordian style and sprayed, and sprayed and sprayed.......BTW, I am STILL ON THIS JOB


Same house you posted about last month? What's taking so long? :jester:

Biggest job I ever did was int/ext of a 6500 sf house, $50,000, 7 guys and took me 3 weeks. Hustle hustle


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## painting247

Same pic's posted last month.....Started this custom interior on January 4th...ceilings, walls, doors, casing and base. I estimated 3 weeks on the job, the 26ft vaulted ceilings were primed and painted, then the HO decided she wanted the ceilings painted the same color as the walls. Sooo, we painted again 2 coats (much darker color) now the cabinets are all in place and it's no longer "New construction" it had become a re-paint. Then decided she didn't like it and so we re-painted them again. This time prime and 2 more coats. That's just the ceilings. After we painted the walls the electronics guy came in and cut holes for the speakers....HO didn't like placement therefore new holes were cut and the old ones patched, primed and the entire wall had to be repainted. After I had started painting the interior I was told the doors, casing, base and all the windows all had to be painted...WTF, I didn't bid the doors, trim or the windows. If I had known in advance I could have/would have had the doors hung, the casing and base installed BEFORE I started painting. What a mess. Once all the casings and base was in place and AFTER the wood floor was put down I had to fill all the holes and re-paint the base and casings. Oh well. A leak in the plumbing ruined the ceiling in the lower level so the drywaller came back and replaced sheetrock and that ceiling too had to be re-painted. Someone hade mis-measured the plumbing for the fixtures and the drywall had to be cut, patched and replaced in 2 of the 3 bathrooms. The 3rd bathroom had an electrical wire in the wrong spot so, you guessed it...that to had to be re-painted. A countertop was mounted too high so they had to cut it down, patch and again that wall had to be re-painted. The HO requested a thermostate be moved therefore that wall had to be patched and re-painted. Last week I was told the trim in the patio needs to be painted, and the columns out front...I didn't bids this either. Additionally, the thresholds need to be stained yet. My list goes on and on. Job security, I guess!


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## Rcon

painting247 said:


> Same pic's posted last month.....Started this custom interior on January 4th...ceilings, walls, doors, casing and base. I estimated 3 weeks on the job, the 26ft vaulted ceilings were primed and painted, then the HO decided she wanted the ceilings painted the same color as the walls. Sooo, we painted again 2 coats (much darker color) now the cabinets are all in place and it's no longer "New construction" it had become a re-paint. Then decided she didn't like it and so we re-painted them again. This time prime and 2 more coats. That's just the ceilings. After we painted the walls the electronics guy came in and cut holes for the speakers....HO didn't like placement therefore new holes were cut and the old ones patched, primed and the entire wall had to be repainted. After I had started painting the interior I was told the doors, casing, base and all the windows all had to be painted...WTF, I didn't bid the doors, trim or the windows. If I had known in advance I could have/would have had the doors hung, the casing and base installed BEFORE I started painting. What a mess. Once all the casings and base was in place and AFTER the wood floor was put down I had to fill all the holes and re-paint the base and casings. Oh well. A leak in the plumbing ruined the ceiling in the lower level so the drywaller came back and replaced sheetrock and that ceiling too had to be re-painted. Someone hade mis-measured the plumbing for the fixtures and the drywall had to be cut, patched and replaced in 2 of the 3 bathrooms. The 3rd bathroom had an electrical wire in the wrong spot so, you guessed it...that to had to be re-painted. A countertop was mounted too high so they had to cut it down, patch and again that wall had to be re-painted. The HO requested a thermostate be moved therefore that wall had to be patched and re-painted. Last week I was told the trim in the patio needs to be painted, and the columns out front...I didn't bids this either. Additionally, the thresholds need to be stained yet. My list goes on and on. Job security, I guess!


Holy shyt!! 

I hope you had a solid contract stipulating that you get paid for all this extra stuff!! 

If you still haven't gotten yourself a solid contract made up, check out the file swap thread (in particular, see PWG's contract)...it makes my old one (a copy of which I shared with you) look like a n00bs


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## painting247

my estimate was VERY clear that I was bidding Flat white on ceiling, eggshell on walls (she went with "Satin" I did charge her for the difference.) line items by line item. *There was/is no question as to what I was bidding.* I told the general and the arch that I did not bid the doors etc...exterior....and they are all aware of this. I did charge for re-doing the ceilings, re-painting the walls...etc. My final invoice is more than 3x's the original estimate. Heck, the floor plan and sq footage was not even the same as the prints that I bid from.


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## NEPS.US

jack pauhl said:


> I didnt leave painting the bottoms out. Its in the post.


Sorry Ralph - I missed that.



jack pauhl said:


> I havent seen real wood on a masonite door in years NEPS. There is NO WOOD on the doors I posted a pic of.


The strips down both sides of the doors are a solid piece of wood usually 1 -2" thick. If you tack into this area on the top of the door you will will not ruin the integrity of the door. This advice came from a millwork rep.


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## bwallace10327

Wolfgang said:


> I cant let this go.
> 
> *If* you're a Pro, you'll know you'll need to remove all hardware to do a quality _professional _job.
> 
> *If* you've done doors before, you'll know not to spray over the factory "primer" and expect lasting _professional_ results.
> 
> *If *you have 5 years of experience and 3 years on your own, you'll know that the fastest, most cost effective way is to spray them. Especially if you're doing them by yourself.
> 
> *If *you are in fact all of the above, you shouldn't have to ask these types of questions at this point in your professional life.
> 
> What can I say?....it's an *"iffy" *world.


 
_*IF*_ asking fellow professional painters their opinions on how a job could or should be done is wrong here please let everyone know *IF* a forum page better suited to this exists.


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## Rcon

bwallace10327 said:


> _*IF*_ asking fellow professional painters their opinions on how a job could or should be done is wrong here please let everyone know *IF* a forum page better suited to this exists.


http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/

















:jester:


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## WisePainter

bwallace10327 said:


> _*IF*_ asking fellow professional painters their opinions on how a job could or should be done is wrong here please let everyone know *IF* a forum page better suited to this exists.


Oh I know!!! The nerve of the members here, who do they think they are?!?

man!


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## bwallace10327

bwallace10327;144198[/U said:


> ]*fellow professional painters*


 not DIY


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## WisePainter

bwallace10327 said:


> not DIY



you asked...


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## Workaholic

bwallace10327 said:


> _*IF*_ asking fellow professional painters their opinions on how a job could or should be done is wrong here please let everyone know *IF* a forum page better suited to this exists.


Bwallace we get a lot of DIY'er that stumble in here and sometimes a new members posts get speculated for DIY when a more entry level question is asked or if the OP is not specific enough. 
I think this is what happened with the OP. As you can see I was in post #2 slot and I was speculating DIY. That is why we encourage people to make an intro so that we have an idea about them prior to their first question. 

Nothing to get upset about, this forum is for professionals to mix it up.


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## TJ Paint

straight_lines said:


> Get as many of these that you will need and it will make you life much easier. Some stores may sell ones made for this that can be driven into the tops of the doors, but you can find these everywhere. You still haven't said what kinda doors these are.


how do you get the tops and bottoms?


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## straight_lines

Wiff a whizz roller.


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## TJ Paint

straight_lines said:


> Wiff a whizz roller.


what about drips?

do you do it before you finish the faces?


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## straight_lines

TJ Paint said:


> what about drips?
> 
> do you do it before you finish the faces?


Drips? I don't have no stinking drips. :jester:

No being serious you can do them all with a whizz or brush when you stack them length wise. After they are sprayed and dried.


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## JoseyWales

straight_lines said:


> Drips? I don't have no stinking drips. :jester:
> 
> No being serious you can do them all with a whizz or brush when you stack them length wise. After they are sprayed and dried.



You stack all the doors on top of each other and then roll the 6 sides?..I'd probably to that first...Do you spray one door at a time when standing upright in accordian fashion or do you spray one side at a time and do all the fronts and then all the backs...I'd be worried about dusting.

I just took over a job from a painter and all the finished doors were dusted...Can that be prevented?....I don't do new construction so I don't paint all the doors in one room...I assume a cloud of dust is created while spraying in say a garage...Do you always leave the garage door open a crack and keep the single passage door open for air flow?..Use a fan blowing OUT the garage door?..What about bounceback from the floor?..Do you put a 2x4 underneath the doors to keep them elevated and therefore no bounceback?


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## straight_lines

Josey I don't stack them Just lay two or three sometimes four depending on cure time and paint, on their sides long ways against a wall and roll or brush them. Sometimes we would move them into the room they go after its painted, and just do them one at a time with something quick drying. Come back an hour later and hang.  

I prefer the V style for spraying. If you are deliberate in how you spray them no dry spray will happen. I do all the edges first then the profiles and the flats last, top to bottom.


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