# Post a painting tip



## ProWallGuy

All right, lets hear about all those little things you do to make a job go faster/easier. If this thread runs long (which I hope), I'll make it a sticky.

Here a few to start.

Spray some WD40 on a rag, and wipe down the end caps and metal arms of your rollers before dipping it in paint. After the job, the paint will clean off easily. Literally wipe off. Keeps roller frames brand new looking. Also spray the inside cage.

When finished with a 5, use a screwdriver to pry out the rubber seal around the inside of the lid. This works great to hold a piece of plastic over your current paint 5 over night (or during lunch, or over a weekend) while on a job. You can throw a wet rag over the 5, then cut a piece of plastic to cover the whole top, and the rubber seal works like the perfect sized rubber band. Keeps paint fresh for a couple days like this.

When using premix mud, never mix or pull mud out of the 5 it comes in. Scoop out a portion at a time into another clean 5, add a splash of water and dish detergent, and mix it with a drill/paddle. If you mix it in the original 5, or pour off that water, it will dry around the edges, and get chunky. Also always wipe off the inside of the lid when you crack it open to keep the residue from drying out and falling in the mud.

Next!


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## rws

A long arm (hockey stick) brush also a brush extender.


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## Rich

-Quick Click stand offs for extension ladders

-Extenda Planks w/ ladder jacks for long runs of soffit, trim, etc.

-When working around bushes, wrap a long runner around and tie in a knot


Thanks for the inital tips PWG...I learned a few new ones :thumbsup:


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## ProWallGuy

When I buy new metal screens for a set-up, I hit them with 2-3 coats high gloss oil from a rattlecan. After the job, throw the screen in a 5 of water, the paint peels off like a skin. Ready for the next job.


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## painterman

Use brown carpenters glue to cover those nasty knots in pine.Baby powder on door rubbers to stop sticking.Use some food colouring in your mud...easy to see repairs


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## Brian

This may not be what you have in mind, but I think it helps the job go smoother.

On the first day you start the job, walk around with the customer and look for things like broken windows, paint splatters, overspray, etc. Point these out to the customer and put it in writing. This avoids tons of problems at the end of the job.

Brian Phillips


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## Dave Mac

Brian said:


> This may not be what you have in mind, but I think it helps the job go smoother.
> 
> On the first day you start the job, walk around with the customer and look for things like broken windows, paint splatters, overspray, etc. Point these out to the customer and put it in writing. This avoids tons of problems at the end of the job.
> Brian Phillips


Yea its amazing how, how we get blammed for stuff that was already their, i had a lady tell me the other day, her deck looked old because my crew got bleach on it, when washing the house, i told her no it was that way when we started, thats why i asked her husband if he wanted a price on it, she shut up real quick. IT PISSES ME OFF TO NO END, PEOPLE TRYing TO GET OVER, WITH CRAP LIKE THAT.


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## MAK-Deco

When I first bid on the complex of townhomes I do on a recurring basis, I walked the property (w/ manager) and video taped everything, paint drips and the such that were there from the previous painter (college pro)


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## DelW

Yup, lots of BEFORE pics.:thumbup:


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## John

A digital camera is your best friend, lots and lots of pics, burn to disk and file for each job
Before and After


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## Firemike

I agree 100% - Digital pics with time/date stamp on them of anything and everything that is existing and might be of concern later on. A couple times I had jobs that had a lot of shoddy work from the previous painter, overspray, sloppy cut lines, paint drips, etc. I walked it with the homewner pointing everything out, but still had that "gut" feeling, so I took pictures with my 35mm. 

After the job was completed, she loved it, paid the balance, and that was it. But a few days later I got a call from her asking what I was going to do about the overspray, drips, etc. Apparently "daddy" came over one night and started picking apart my work. Went back to look at the job, walked it with her and daddy, showed them that everything was existing (drip/overspray colors didn't even match the color we put on - neither of them caught that... Arrrgh!) 

Also told them that I always pictures of everything before we start. Daddy said that pictures can be doctored, so it really doesn't matter if I had them. Pulled out a set of prints complete with negatives and he didn't (couldn't) say a word after that. Always trust your gut!


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## MAK-Deco

Firemike said:


> I agree 100% - Digital pics with time/date stamp on them of anything and everything that is existing and might be of concern later on. A couple times I had jobs that had a lot of shoddy work from the previous painter, overspray, sloppy cut lines, paint drips, etc. I walked it with the homewner pointing everything out, but still had that "gut" feeling, so I took pictures with my 35mm.
> 
> After the job was completed, she loved it, paid the balance, and that was it. But a few days later I got a call from her asking what I was going to do about the overspray, drips, etc. Apparently "daddy" came over one night and started picking apart my work. Went back to look at the job, walked it with her and daddy, showed them that everything was existing (drip/overspray colors didn't even match the color we put on - neither of them caught that... Arrrgh!)
> 
> Also told them that I always pictures of everything before we start. Daddy said that pictures can be doctored, so it really doesn't matter if I had them. Pulled out a set of prints complete with negatives and he didn't (couldn't) say a word after that. Always trust your gut!


hey Mike I have had similar customers like that, now if I get that "gut" feeling I don't bid the job some people are never happy with even quality work, they are always looking to blame someone for something.


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## Dave Mac

Very good, i think i will buy one this week, and start doing this, anyone got any recomendations on the digital camera, which one??

thanks
dave mac


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## Workaholic

I use a Olympus stylus 730. 
I think that is the right number, it is water resistant, automatic red eyer reducer on the camera, very easy to operate. 7.1 megapixal. I had a nikon coolpix before that and it was not nearly as user friendly. Plus the stylus has a 3" screen.
for 50 bucks on ebay get yourself a 2gig card for the stylus, it will hold 1000's of high quality pics.


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## Tmrrptr

I try all these new fangled ideas cuz I wanna be a gud painter like u guys.

Some just don't work.

Wax in the new 5 was the worst!

It probably took 20 minutes to wash my sleeve off, another 1/2 hour to clean up the paint on the floor, and the bucket didn't seem to rinse out any faster that afternoon. And I got these funny lookin spots all over the walls!
r


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## meo814

just thought this post should be bumped to the top again


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## Brushslingers

I missed this one, I keep two cans in the middle of the yard on exteriors, one for ciggie butts and the other with water... during all breaks/lunch, drop your brushes in the water to keep the brushes moist.

I wet sand rock patches to keep dust down.... rag or a sponge and water smoothes out faster and no mess.


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## nextlevelpaintco.

wd40 is the same as goof off but cheaper here are some other money saving ideas.synthetic motor oil will work as pump oil it also replaces penetrol.trans fluid will replace hydraulic fluid,white kerosene works as good if not better than pump armor,household hair conditioner will keep brushes and roller covers soft and hair gel will substitute as floetrol also does any one know of the tilt trick when rolling with satin or eggshell. I like to ask questions to keep it going.


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## Bushdude

What is the tilt trick?


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## nextlevelpaintco.

well,I'm really not talking about for a pro.but if you put a rookie on rolling a paint with a sheen you will likely have ropes all thru it it can sometimes happen with flat.but if you tell him to roll it normal about 5ft out then start back over with a slite on the roller,if your going left to right the tilt should be on the right side.leaving an intentional roller line on the right side the left side will feather out perfectly this realy works good when wiz rolling flat doors you paint it fast then go back over the whole door with this technique.


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## nextlevelpaintco.

heres another tip,this is the senerio.on the job miles away from the shop your hardcore spraying,suddenly the lower packings go out,no backup sprayer to far to go get another one.Get a torch if no torch crank the van. find a metal work pot remove your packings put them in the pot fill with enough brake fluid to submerge them and set it on the engine, let it get hot real hot.put the packings back in while still hot the pump should be good for another 50 gallons atleast.


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## Wolverine

This guy is from Lenoir, NC... You HAVE to improvise just to live there! lol...


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## Rich

nextlevelpaintco. said:


> heres another tip,this is the senerio.on the job miles away from the shop your hardcore spraying,suddenly the lower packings go out,no backup sprayer to far to go get another one.Get a torch if no torch crank the van. find a metal work pot remove your packings put them in the pot fill with enough brake fluid to submerge them and set it on the engine, let it get hot real hot.put the packings back in while still hot the pump should be good for another 50 gallons atleast.


no offense, but...before I would do all that (or even think about it) I'd be 'packing' up for the day


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## nextlevelpaintco.

most of my work is commercial and no less than an hour away and mostly 5 or more and staying in motels type jobs.maybe one day you'll be in that unlikley situation and save yourself hundreds maybe thousands.


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## Rich

ahhh...now I get it

we are a completely different breed my friend

I'm a small 2 man operation, very high end, very routine in what I do


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## ProWallGuy

Macgyver? :blink:


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## Wolverine

Nextlevel,

how old are you and which High School did you go to?


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## nextlevelpaintco.

25 and west caldwell


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## Wolverine

Ahhh... you're a young buck... lol...

My wife went to Hibrighten... but... she's about a decade+ older than you...


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## goodenough

disregard


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## goodenough

A plastic grocery bag fits nicely over a five and a roller for storage overnight -- stays wet. Two nights, it starts to dry out.


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## nextlevelpaintco.

goodenough said:


> A plastic grocery bag fits nicely over a five and a roller for storage overnight -- stays wet. Two nights, it starts to dry out.


I like that idea.


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## Runamuk

Brian said:


> This may not be what you have in mind, but I think it helps the job go smoother.
> 
> On the first day you start the job, walk around with the customer and look for things like broken windows, paint splatters, overspray, etc. Point these out to the customer and put it in writing. This avoids tons of problems at the end of the job.
> 
> Brian Phillips


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 

I'm glad I'm not the only one!!!

Rick


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## Runamuk

*Vaseline 101*

Vaseline 

1. Use a thin film of vaseline on the weatherstripping surrounding a door to prevent sticking and standing around waiting for the paint to fully dry.

2. Put vaseline around your eyes and eylids when spraying with a hood then genltly wipe off with oil or water base paint still attached when done.

3. Use a thin film of vaseline on surfaces that are not maskable to prevent paint adheration. (certain hinges come to mind)

4. Use a very thin film of vaseline to keep the stinger of your pump clean.
(the 5 lb clump of paint on the stinger just shows ignorance of proper pump care)

5. A thin coat of vaseline also keeps your hand "tightened" sprayer tips genuinely hand tighten able.

Rick


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## Nathan

Great tips Rick


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## welovepainting

If you drip paint on a roof or conrete use a rag to dab it and rub dirt on it right away. 

Use baby oil on your skin for oil clean up


Dent the side of a gallon can with your knee torwards the top to use for a grid while painting with a 4" mini roller


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## Tmrrptr

So far, my vote is for Nextlevel to receive the Git R Dun award.
r


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## dragula

Bump.

Next level states that Syn Motor Oil/Hair Gel are respective replacements for Penetrol/Floetrol.

I'm having a hard time believing either of these...

Comments?


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## loghomeservices

For my sprayers dedicated for water based stains, I use 50-50 anti-freeze to store the pumps until the next job. 'no freezing, no rusting, no sticking check balls.

Pat


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## Workaholic

dragula said:


> Bump.
> 
> Next level states that Syn Motor Oil/Hair Gel are respective replacements for Penetrol/Floetrol.
> 
> I'm having a hard time believing either of these...
> 
> Comments?


Myth bust it for us. Myself i would never risk trying it.


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## Damon T

I built several "bakers racks" for my shop to spray kitchen cabinet doors. The racks take up minimal floor space, and allow you to hold up to 20 cabinet doors each. I built them out of wood, but are based on the typical bakers racks design. You can also mail order a version made by Rubbermaid, but they are quite pricey. 
I take the top shelf off (1/2" plywood 2'x2') with door on it, spray on work table, put back up and work my way down, so any sliding that causes debris to fall lands on doors not already coated. This system works great. I have had a few problems when doors slide onto the overspray on the shelf, but not many. Always do the backside first, as mentioned by a previous poster on cabinet thread. 
I'll post pics when I can get around to it.


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## hawaiipainter

1) I call it tape caulking. 
To prevent tape bleeding, and to make the most perfect straight line all in one. Tape your edge, door molding, base boards, ect. caulk the line you need paint or not to bleed through or to make perfectly straingt. Simply tape, caulk the tape line and smooth in with finger, paint right away, remove tape and be amazed. It works great on stucco, or any rough surface. I use it religiously. 
2) spray extensions with swivel tip.
3) door stands that V the doors by attaching to where the hinges are.
4) 3m masking systems 24", 48", 72", and 99" for sliders or big stuff.
5) Rubber backed drop cloths.
6) Home Depot high adhesive tape, no blue tape unless have to.
7) tape caulk old windows to reglaze them when painting. do the tape1/8" in from edge makes them look new.
8) A good orbital sander
9) New tool for rot, Dremel Multi Master.
10) Hot days, Ice water in a pump spray to cool the core tempature.
11) Always scrap, sand, fix rot, paint.
12) Duration exterior paint dries to 6mm, Primer and top coat in one, lifetime warrany material and labor from SW
13) Biggest secret, Work hard


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## Michigan11

Nice thread keep 'em coming!

*Caulking is a fine art.* It's mastering these detailed arts of the trade, that will add value to your time and business. Learning to caulk absolutely perfect lines, allows you to save time and add a distinct difference to your mark in the trade. _BTW, I'm not talking about using your fingers, some tools, or tape to make the caulk lines._

*Tips on learning this:* The cut on the tip is the most important. It needs to be around _25-40degrees_(the same angle you're working from), and at the right depth depending on the width of the gaps you are caulking. Pressure on the trigger needs to be consistent and in tune with the outflow. When you first start out at one end, you need to watch while aligning the pressure on the trigger and the movement of the gun in sync - that is the art of it. Best bet is practicing for hours until you are comfortable and the confidence is there. If you end up getting a trail on either side of the bead, you are getting close but you need to adjust the movement a bit faster than the trigger pressure or if you are getting slight gaps in the bead, than vice versa. 

*Reasons for learning this:* Caulking around cabinets/counter tops, in kitchens and bathrooms to create seamless appearance. You can either caulk before hand to later paint over or caulk after the painting is done.


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## PVPainter

1)The best tip I ever learned about patching in particular was; just when it looks almost like you want it to, stop. Chances are you will pick something up on the blade and drag it through, creating a never ending cycle of frustration, so just stop, and sand later.

2) don't ever use super spec interior

3) A few times a year buy a gallon of xylene to soak disregarded roller arms brushes ect., cleans them right up

4) Take a decent size drop and lay it over bushes that are close to the house and then use a come-a-long (ladder ratchet) to pull it to a near by tree, or just make it smaller. Thus covering it, and getting it out of your way in one shot.

5) Never lay plastic over a nice garden on a hot day without poking lots of holes in it.

6) Don't waste your time cleaning up the handle of your brush, it's a paint brush for christ's sake.

7) Always try to make the yard, or the inside of the house your working in, look better than it did when you got there during clean up. Customers are so blown away to see you whip out cleaning agents and have everything **** and span before your on your way out the door. So much so that sometimes they care more about that, then the painting you just did

8) Use the Dust Controll joint compound, it is an amazing difference.


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## rennaux

anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?


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## dragula

rennaux said:


> anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?



Yes. Tell your guys to do it, give them a time limit, and tell them if it doesn't look perfect, they're fired.

Works everytime:thumbsup:


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## Damon T

rennaux said:


> anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?


thin down your cut-in paint. makes it easier. If you're doing an accent type color, then try the caulking as mentioned in a previous post. Paint the ceiling, let dry, tape, caulk, paint and pull tape. Looks perfect. You can do the same thing next to window / door casings. I know a lot of people say they don't tape and that's fine, but you will get a better line doing this, and sometimes it's necessary.


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## Wolfgang

Buy a couple Rubbermaid bath tub no slip mats. They have all the suction cups on the back and are padded. I use them in tile/marble/wood entrys or where ever I dont want my ladder to slip.


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## deluxe

fi you want your easysand to dry a lot faster mix it with hot water

new factory primed doors- never only spot prime repairs it will flash when you spray them if you use latex

if you want to cut faster learn to use stilts you'll be amazed at the time saved.
i can't do it but one of my guys does.


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## rennaux

I have seen a few guys using stilts on new construction jobs, they said they really liked them when cutting in......


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## Michigan11

deluxe said:


> fi you want your easysand to dry a lot faster mix it with hot water
> 
> new factory primed doors- never only spot prime repairs it will flash when you spray them if you use latex
> 
> if you want to cut faster learn to use stilts you'll be amazed at the time saved.
> i can't do it but one of my guys does.


Ha, that is awesome. About ten years ago, I got stilts for 2 of my guys on interior re-paints, they got so good on them they could run down the streets in them - funny as hell to see.

If you have a big crew or big interior jobs, stilts are the way to go to cut in the upper trim, customers love watching but get nervous as hell though.


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## stansoph

I use the 29 oz plastic Folgers coffee container for my paint pot. I drink the coffe and get the container as a side beneit, there is a hand grip built into the side, it even has a groove for the rubberband. I use a 1 gallon Ziplock pushed inside with the edges pulled over the perimeter of the container. I then put a thick rubberband around the top, outside of the container to hold the bag in place. The bag works without the rubberband, but I like using it to hold the bag a little more stationary. Pour in your paint and go to town.

When you go to lunch, take the rubberband off and seal the bag. When you are done for the day and have remaining paint. Remove the bag, squeeze out the air, seal, clip off a lower corner and squeeze the paint back into the original can/bucket. Kind of like a pastery chef. Discard bag.

Bags are cheap. The can has a large base to help keep it stable. Best of all it is cheap and virtually mess free. You can get the containers at some Senior Centers also.

Not quite as good as Chip's kiddee pool but effective.

For my shop vac; I have two 25' sections of hose that can be used independantly or hooked togeter. Along side of each hose is a wire; tie wrapped along the length to a switch at the end ,for a remote power switch. This setup lets me keep the vacuum outside for noise as well as dust control. I got the hose and parts at a vacuum store here in town; we have 3, go figure.


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## dragula

^Awesome info on the Ziploc gimmick. I actually got some of those empty coffee things for Christmas...lol


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## The Painter Guy

As far as the digital camera is concerned, I like the Canon Power Shot A630 8.0 Mega Pixels and a 4x optical Zoom (Optical Zoom is the important part). I use it for estimates, documenting the condition of job prior to our work, also for before and after and use it for marketing purposes.


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## daArch

Couple of follow ups on previous tips.

That Folger can and bag is a great idea. The only question I have is why bother with a zip lock? (I've never been a fan of things lined with plastic bags) The plastic top for that Folger container should seal it well enough. (IMO)

For brushing interior oil on trim, I'd put paint in a 1 pound coffee can and put that in a regular old metal paint pot. This was advantageous for a number of reasons. 

>There was less surface area of paint to dry and thicken , i.e. less thinning.

>When pausing for a few minutes, the brush would be put in the pot next to the can - less chance to be knocked off onto the drop than brushes laid on top of pot. 

>Extra sense of security against pot being kicked and spilled. Yes the coffee can needed refilling more often than a half full paint pot - I'd fill the coffee can about half way. 

Cameras: Bought a Kodak V570 (unfortunately, I'm sure it's been discontinued). It has a 18mm lens (that's equiv to a 23 mm in a 35mm camera). This wide angle is good for estimates and other job pix. Pictures at estimates are very helpful to remind you what is involved. This camera has two lenes built in. The other lens zoom from 55 to 85. And it fits in a breast pocket.


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## boman47k

> The plastic top for that Folger container should seal it well enough


The plastic bag means no cleaning of the pot. Just toss the bag after draining what you can back in the paint can. At least this is the reason I sometimes use a garbage bag on a paint tray.


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## johnpaint

One thing that I do when I working in a building or anywhere I have to walk a long way for the job, I will have a clean 30 gall trash can that I load up with all the tools I need for the job that way I don't have to make so many trips back and forth from my truck, this also works good at the end of the day just pack all your tools in the can and take it back to the van. If I'm working on the same job the next day I will leave all this in the can and walk it right back, all the things you need for the job will still be there.As you know on the job site the more time you spend running to get things the more tired you are at the end of the day, and the more wasted time there is.This also helps if you have workers that tend to get lost after they run to the van for some reason.


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## dragula

boman47k said:


> The plastic bag means no cleaning of the pot. Just toss the bag after draining what you can back in the paint can. At least this is the reason I sometimes use a garbage bag on a paint tray.


Yeah, the paint gets in the handle and it's a pain to clean.

Go by your local fire dept. and kindly ask them to donate the used coffee containers...Problem solved.


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## stansoph

> Yeah, the paint gets in the handle and it's a pain to clean.


Bingo!

I still paint oil about 90% of the time so the bag saves my coffee can.

Great thread.


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## TooledUp

If your masking tape has been sitting around a while and starts tearing as you peel it off just warm it up in front of a fan heater or somewhere real warm for half an hour. It livens up the tack and helps get it coming off easier.

Tip #2: Don't eat yellow snow.


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## aaron61

The best tool I added to my arsenal this year is The Craftsman Accutrac Laser Measuring Tool. Saves huge amounts of time for take offs and impresses the clients.


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## TooledUp

Here's one I seen a guy take with him when he went fishing - For those cold days when there's nowhere to go buy some hot food...

Put some baked beans and a couple of hot dogs into a small strong sandwich/poly bag and make sure it's well sealed (tie the top). Pop it into your thermos flask and fill with hot water. Take a packet of dehydrated mashed potato with you.

When you're ready for it just pour the hot water into a bowl, add the mash and stir. Add the beans and hot dogs and consume. This guy used a large soup flask but I imagine a large regular one would do.


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## Tonyg

TooledUp said:


> For those cold days when there's nowhere to go buy some hot food...


:thumbsup: I used to take my leftovers in foil or a can of soup and leave on the engine block when I started. By lunch it turns into a hot meal while everyone else is eating cold cuts


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## paintingchicago

*quality roller sleeves*

Use lambswool roller covers...pecifically Merinos if you can find them. (from Greece) I buy mine from a store in Evanston, IL. called Prather Paint on North Green Bay road.

I used the same two covers for the entirety of last year sometimes washing them out multiple times per day for color changes. They clean up in a minute or two with a roller spinner, hold a lot of paint with even distribution, leave no fuzz on the walls.

I've saved so much money with these things.


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## MAK-Deco

paintingchicago said:


> Use lambswool roller covers...pecifically Merinos if you can find them. (from Greece) I buy mine from a store in Evanston, IL. called Prather Paint on North Green Bay road.
> 
> I used the same two covers for the entirety of last year sometimes washing them out multiple times per day for color changes. They clean up in a minute or two with a roller spinner, hold a lot of paint with even distribution, leave no fuzz on the walls.
> 
> I've saved so much money with these things.


add up all the time it takes to wash them out if you charge a decent wage you'll think twice about how much money you think your saving... Not sure what kind of work your doing but I wouldn't even think about washing out a roller in a clients sink..

by the way welcome to the site,


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## TooledUp

MAK-Deco said:


> add up all the time it takes to wash them out if you charge a decent wage you'll think twice about how much money you think your saving... Not sure what kind of work your doing but I wouldn't even think about washing out a roller in a clients sink..


Lambswool are by far the most superior roller sleeves for ceiling and walls. It is getting harder to find them here in the UK but as an alternative I use sheepskin which are under a notch less superior as far as the finish goes.

I use a 15 inch and a 12 inch - 15 for ceilings and 12 for walls. If I'm going to have some colour changes, say one wall is different etc; I carry some 9 inch ones too (saves washing out in a client's home). I only use synthetic for exterior, textured surfaces or oil paints.


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## Michigan11

TooledUp said:


> Tip #2: Don't eat yellow snow.


A nice touch to finishing an exterior job, is an artistic beer gardens. Nothing like it says you care.


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## TooledUp

Michigan11 said:


> A nice touch to finishing an exterior job, is an artistic beer gardens. Nothing like it says you care.


Oh yeah - Writing your name with it in the snow is a skill only obtained by alcohol. Dotting the "I's" is the tricky bit. It's even more gratifying if your name is written in your girlfreind's handwriting :whistling2:


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## MAK-Deco

TooledUp said:


> Lambswool are by far the most superior roller sleeves for ceiling and walls. It is getting harder to find them here in the UK but as an alternative I use sheepskin which are under a notch less superior as far as the finish goes.
> 
> I use a 15 inch and a 12 inch - 15 for ceilings and 12 for walls. If I'm going to have some colour changes, say one wall is different etc; I carry some 9 inch ones too (saves washing out in a client's home). I only use synthetic for exterior, textured surfaces or oil paints.


I have tried them over the years and don't like the finish they leave... sorry can't see spending the money on them and having to clean them out.. I use a shed resistant and let it dry out and toss it.. time is money my friends...


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## DeanV

I used to use lambswool/sheep skin, because I loved the low spatter and fast clean out, but the texture they leave is too much. A pro-dooz leaves a much lighter, even stipple and looks better, especially in deep colors. I still miss the lambswool sometimes because of how they applied the paint, but the final appearance was not up to my standards.

I have also taking to tossing the roller covers more often.


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## dragula

Well in FL I have never seen a smooth wall, so take that into consideration.

The Wooster Polar Bear is my go-to finish roller for interior, Purdy Collosus for Exterior, and Microfiber for thin primers/smooth surfaces(well FL smooth anyways).


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## DeanV

dragula said:


> Well in FL I have never seen a smooth wall, so take that into consideration.



I always forget those regional differences that can make a big difference on how we do things.


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## dragula

DeanV said:


> I always forget those regional differences that can make a big difference on how we do things.


You know it's FL when your ladder racks get used more for kayaks than ladders:thumbsup:


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## nEighter

Here goes:

Wet your brushes or roller covers prior to putting them into paint.. (make sure all excess water is off beforehand) this softens the brushes/rollers and they "accept" the paint better 

For any type of painting with brush or mini rollers (outside of industrial work) I use the HandyPales. You can get em at SW or Lowes/Homedepot. They have a black rubber piece that hugs your hand *adjustable* you don't have to hold them.. and there are little inserts (clear liners) you buy for them. There is also plastic tops w/ elastic in them that you can take the liner out, then put the little "booty" plastic thing on, the elastic keeps it around the top of the liner.. works awesome for different colors. I have one for the mini rollers, and one for cut-ins. Also they have a magnet on the side so you can stick your brush to the magnet so it doesn't fall into the paint. This is probably my most favorite tool for painting.. besides "the money maker" 

I use rubbermaid totes for my tools, have one that is carpentry/woodworking tools, one for paint, and one for drywall stuff. I take them everywhere.

All my marine buddies say that the Olympus Stylus 1030sw (or better models) are what they take to Iraq. The are shockproof, and waterproof (to a certain depth). I plan on getting one of these next time I need a camera. Oh they call it "the Iraq camera". :thumbsup:


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## rennaux

If your going to buy a camera of any kind buy a Canon I have A95 Powershot and a ZR200 digital video that also shoots stills. Their equipment is excellent and you get professional looking pics of your jobs.


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## Wolfgang

Tooled...a shortage of lambswool in the UK?!? I thought you guys had sheep all over the place. I mean I could understand it if you were in New England where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.:thumbup:


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## TooledUp

Wolfgang said:


> Tooled...a shortage of lambswool in the UK?!? I thought you guys had sheep all over the place. I mean I could understand it if you were in New England where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.:thumbup:


I think it's the Welsh hogging them all (same saying goes for them). I reckon it's not so much that they are rare, but costly. I suppose the actual finish you get is down o personal preference. I like the finish and the longevity of them. At the cost of products here you couldn't afford to throw sleeves away after every use.


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## Flaky

I've been using these for decades. Cut an opening in a gallon water 
or milk jug. The plastic has a sharp edge and bends when you wipe 
the brush on it, unlike metal or cardboard, so it's easier to keep 
the brush clean and control the amount of paint in it. The handle 
is easy on the hand. You can make a notch for the brush handle, 
and even a slit in the top for a pot hook. They're reusable if you
use primer the first time (dried finish paint comes off in a sheet).









http://www.painttalk.com/members/flaky-2165/albums/


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## mblosik

rennaux said:


> anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?


I agree; thin down paint (floetrol preferred by me)....
to make it even easier; these are some other tips i have found to be useful:

i have found that taping the windows and door frames can help as well. 
to prevent bleed through, make sure you run a putty knife or five-in-one over the tape to heat seal the tape.

or, another alternative is to caulk with a very small bead of clear caulk around windows and door frames and let dry. the caulk is much easier to paint than heavy ing knockdown.

also, when cutting against the ceiling, put a 12" putty knife/mud applicator/blade (whatever you want to call it--the stiffer the better) at the seam, essentially using it as a shield between the wall and the ceiling. make sure to wipe the back of the blade periodically.

some other fun tips:
i've been painting since i was eleven, and my joints, wrists, etc. wished someone would have told me this tip at the time:
don't fill your cut in bucket too full (an inch or so of product is plenty)

coat your brushes and rollers with fabric softener before you use them. it helps paint to flow off them easier initially, and then makes it easier to clean them when you're done. (get the softener down all the way to the ferrule if you can)

then, once you clean your brushes and rollers, coat them again with fabric softener after you spin them out. then put them back in their covers. they will be nicer to use the next time you go to use them. plus, all this fabric softener makes us sweatier painters (we know who we are, sweating in Wisconsin Winter) smell better. 

for those of us that live in the cold climates, have an "inside bag." i have a large backpack that i take inside of my job to start the day that contains sundries that i don't want to get frozen: tape, drill and drill batteries, walkman and walkman batteries (or ipod or portable xm--whatever your taste!), floetrol, lightweight spackle, caulk...etc. take this bag into your house/office at the end of the day and no more thawing out tape or a trip to the paint store to buy more tape cuz yours is now coming off in small strips.

wear headphones to listen to your music/talk radio. the benefits are many: your customers won't be able to refer to you as "a great painting company, but their music was too loud/awful/offensive." your coworkers or fellow subs will not be driven crazy by your awful taste in music, and will not have to shout to be heard over your awful music. also, when you're dealing with the overchatty customer, they will be less likely to keep chatting when you keep taking your headphones off to talk to them. always keep one earbud/headphone off though, so you can hear anything you may need to (fire alarm/lunch whistle/attack guard dog coming to bite your junk/ice cream truck). 

last tip for now; but this may be most important: i love my customers, but sometimes you get one that will literally want to pull up a chair and watch you work. some of us may like this, but i am not one of them; it can be nerve wracking to say the least. so, on interior jobs, to make sure they cannot sit down and watch "tv" in their living room, move all furniture to center of the room and butt it up against each other so it literally would take a trapeze artist to get to a comfy seat; then put plastic over the top of everything (obviously you should plastic up everything so paint won't get on it, but still.....) the plastic usually discourages them from hanging out the whole time in the room you are working in. although, i once had a client watch tv underneath the plastic and in the bunched up furniture. seriously:yes:.
if this should happen on exteriors (you obviously have more area to deal with), open up a bucket of xylene with your brushes soaking in it. this smell and obvious brain damage repercussions should make any sane human being leave the area.




this thread is great--keep it going!


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## kanadaeh

Not sure if these have been mentioned but here are a few we use:

We have marked one side of all our drop clothes "this side up" so we always have the clean side down and avoid any paint splatter that may be wet on the drop cloth from from being put face down on the floor during movement. We have also marked on them "Stolen from Precision Painting" lol

I always try to pour my paint out of one side of the can(preferably the French side for us canucks. Easier to read labels for the newer guys who don't know difference in paints yet) I cant stand working with a messy can

We recently purchased a dewalt cordless shop vac. It is the bomb! Not to mentioned it gets noticed by our resi clients. ie: "Those painters were so neat and tidy, they even had this cute little cordless vac they used to clean up with"

We always carry a bag of Sheetrock 20. It's great for those one day jobs with patching involved. Just mix a little water and your good to go. Dry in 20 minutes!

This one is more of a warning. A couple of days ago I decided to run Methyl through our sprayers. Well one seemed to be clogged so I removed the gun from the hose and turned the pressure up. After a couple of seconds the gun flew out of my hands with such force I didn't even realize what was happening. I turned the machine off. Pulled my shirt up and on my stomach I had a welt the size of a softball! Luckily the Methyl had not penetrated my skin. Be careful and never underestimate the power behind paint sprayers!


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## zerowned

> This one is more of a warning. A couple of days ago I decided to run Methyl through our sprayers. Well one seemed to be clogged so I removed the gun from the hose and turned the pressure up. After a couple of seconds the gun flew out of my hands with such force I didn't even realize what was happening. I turned the machine off. Pulled my shirt up and on my stomach I had a welt the size of a softball! Luckily the Methyl had not penetrated my skin. Be careful and never underestimate the power behind paint sprayers!


haha been there, no welt i had a hold of the line, shot out a 3 inch core sample lol, like a potato gun. 

i like the "stolen from..." and I did the THIS SIDE UP on our cloth drop sheets. 

a tip i have, always have a cellphone.... you never know when a crazy drywaller will want to have a knife fight with you or your painters..... yeah it happened to me.... thats a whole new thread...


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## MAK-Deco

kanadaeh said:


> We always carry a bag of Sheetrock 20. It's great for those one day jobs with patching involved. Just mix a little water and your good to go. Dry in 20 minutes!


we don't carry anything else but 20 and 5 no need for anything higher in res repaints..


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## JCM

I got some pretty good tips from this thread that I have to try out.

If you wand absolutely perfect lines from your caulk, wash it out with a rag and a bucket of water. 

Never torch the rock guard, the screen will detach from the base.

DON"T yell heads up when you drop something from above.

If the ladder kicks drop every thing in your hands and try to get away from the ladder, Workmans comp is expensive.

Caulk the back of your new stain brush and it will hold back the stain when you have it upside down for long periods of time.


----------



## dhp

Michigan11 said:


> Ha, that is awesome. About ten years ago, I got stilts for 2 of my guys on interior re-paints, they got so good on them they could run down the streets in them - funny as hell to see.
> 
> If you have a big crew or big interior jobs, stilts are the way to go to cut in the upper trim, customers love watching but get nervous as hell though.


 
LOL i have my guys on the top of a 32 foot ladder on stilts....or the top top of a 12 foot step, cutting in  we get it done. 

all we have is knockdown here, you cut the best you can, just as fast as you can.....

when I paint (which i dont do much anymore) i cut the ceiling to wall transition or accent wall painting the wall color (or accent) around all the edges (pre cut we call it). then i tape off the edge, no plastic or paper just a strip of tape. then i take a sprayer and a small tip (211) and blast the precut again with the ceiling color or wall color. there is no mess cause its such a small amount of paint...... peel the tape a roll it out.

seems like a lot of steps, but it makes PERFECT lines on knockdown, and may only add about an hour. FWIWW 99% of the people never appreciate it. 

when re-painting old wood facia, we scrape sand etc etc. then i mix in some latex caulk to the paint....making a milkshake (we call it that)
it adds HUGE amounts of elasticity....spans all the cracking, even after caulking.....lasts much longer.

i never drop brushes in water, we have zip lock bags and cut the corner off for the handle....throw the bruch in a zip it up. good for days...

i take rollers and roll them up in tinfoil....good overnight...


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## delpainter

Lowes has this yellow plastic cut bucket cost $1.88 has a flat grid area for using a whizz roller and a couple of v's on the side to hold a wet brush. Let the paint dry and peel out and it is pretty comfortable to hold.

On a steep roof where you can't run a ladder up for stability and it is hard to get good footing try using the no slip pads that go under area rugs they grip the roof and keep you from slipping.

Delpainter


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## JNLP

dhp said:


> i never drop brushes in water, we have zip lock bags and cut the corner off for the handle....throw the bruch in a zip it up. good for days...
> 
> i take rollers and roll them up in tinfoil....good overnight...


I use grocery bags. Have a never ending stock pile & they're free. :thumbsup:


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## Bender

> then i mix in some latex caulk to the paint....making a milkshake (we call it that)


:whistling2:
I think 'paulk' has a nice ring, or maybe 'caint'.
35 year paulk.


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## Bighead

Use press and seal on the 18 inch roller pan and you'll never have to wash out the pan again.

If you typically use the same brand of ceiling paint from job to job wrap the roller sleeve in press and seal (or foil) and save it for the next job. We've used the same sleeve for over a year.

Use a damp small artist brush to smooth caulk in tight spaces.


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## nEighter

When using wood bondo, a REALLY good spreader is old ATM cards, or medical cards. They have just the right amount of flex, and great for mixing the paste w/ hardner. :thumbsup: I have found that regular "bondo spreaders" can be too wide, they get that annoying flex to them (kinda curls up on you) and can make a big mess. 

ALSO squeeze out all the air from the hardner, then kneed it with you fingers to mix the liquid and solid in it before you squirt it out on the paste.


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## asthma76

rennaux said:


> anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?


spray the walls. let it dry. mask off walls with blue+plastic. spray ceiling. thats only if you're doing both walls+ceiling.


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## tsunamicontract

here is a cutting in tip. I use a clip on hat brim light with about 5 leds on it so I am never trying to cut in my shadow. I also use grocery bags to cover things. keep them in your fridge to last longer without drying out.


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## GWHRsuperhero

hawaiipainter said:


> 1) I call it tape caulking.
> To prevent tape bleeding, and to make the most perfect straight line all in one. Tape your edge, door molding, base boards, ect. caulk the line you need paint or not to bleed through or to make perfectly straingt. Simply tape, caulk the tape line and smooth in with finger, paint right away, remove tape and be amazed. It works great on stucco, or any rough surface. I use it religiously.
> 2) spray extensions with swivel tip.
> 3) door stands that V the doors by attaching to where the hinges are.
> 4) 3m masking systems 24", 48", 72", and 99" for sliders or big stuff.
> 5) Rubber backed drop cloths.
> 6) Home Depot high adhesive tape, no blue tape unless have to.
> 7) tape caulk old windows to reglaze them when painting. do the tape1/8" in from edge makes them look new.
> 8) A good orbital sander
> 9) New tool for rot, Dremel Multi Master.
> 10) Hot days, Ice water in a pump spray to cool the core tempature.
> 11) Always scrap, sand, fix rot, paint.
> 12) Duration exterior paint dries to 6mm, Primer and top coat in one, lifetime warrany material and labor from SW
> 13) Biggest secret, Work hard


Tape cauling works great. Good to use on accent walls. Another option is using a product with a clear finish to seal the tape.


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## Quaid?

rip the handle off of an empty paint can. bend a hook on one side, and bend the other end around your paint pot handle, and you have all the free pot hooks you need


----------



## Rick the painter

Use a leaf blower to clean off just-power sanded decks and siding.


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## tsunamicontract

Rick the painter said:


> Use a leaf blower to clean off just-power sanded decks and siding.


I bought an electric blower/vac last year and use it to clean up chips. works alright when chips are dry.


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## BrushJockey

Instead of caulk on tape edges, use XIM peel bond. I carry a small medicine jar and a 3/4 brush for this, very quick.


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## pekin painter

Get a gallon of brake parts cleaner it comes with a basket. Works great for soaking tips.I used to paint grain elevators and we would leave 15-20 tips in the can at all times. some guys forget they have tips in their pocket and the paint would harden up . put in the bucket let them soak take a wire brush to them and they are like new again


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## flowjo

if your a beginner do not buy a ****ty brush if your a beginner do not buy a ****ty roller handle or cover make sure you buy very good quality tools. it will help u develop form , motion and a speed that u will need. buy a brush from corona purdy or wooster they are all very well made although purdy have gone downhill a bit they are still very useful also read the label on the brush to see what type of application its for. as for a roller this is a very preference based subject as are brushes its all about trial and error.


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## Slingah

this is probaly the oldest trick in the book
run five-in-one around the rim of empty gallon can to cut it out ( or use can opener) peel label and clean out....perfect paint pot...


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## johnpaint

BrushJockey said:


> Instead of caulk on tape edges, use XIM peel bond. I carry a small medicine jar and a 3/4 brush for this, very quick.


Won't it peel back when you lift the tape?


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## johnpaint

If you power wash the day before and tape the next day, some time the water is still leaking out of the weep holes on the vinyl windows. Use a leaf blower to blow the water out of the windows before you tape.


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## ParagonVA

Wolfgang said:


> Buy a couple Rubbermaid bath tub no slip mats. They have all the suction cups on the back and are padded. I use them in tile/marble/wood entrys or where ever I dont want my ladder to slip.


good idea- I use those non slip pads that go under area rugs.



Damon T said:


> thin down your cut-in paint. makes it easier. If you're doing an accent type color, then try the caulking as mentioned in a previous post. Paint the ceiling, let dry, tape, caulk, paint and pull tape. Looks perfect. You can do the same thing next to window / door casings. I know a lot of people say they don't tape and that's fine, but you will get a better line doing this, and sometimes it's necessary.


yup- thinning the paint can certainly help in tricky spots. Of course you might have to cut it one more time than expected.



stansoph said:


> I use the 29 oz plastic Folgers coffee container for my paint pot. I drink the coffe and get the container as a side beneit, there is a hand grip built into the side, it even has a groove for the rubberband. I use a 1 gallon Ziplock pushed inside with the edges pulled over the perimeter of the container. I then put a thick rubberband around the top, outside of the container to hold the bag in place. The bag works without the rubberband, but I like using it to hold the bag a little more stationary. Pour in your paint and go to town.
> 
> When you go to lunch, take the rubberband off and seal the bag. When you are done for the day and have remaining paint. Remove the bag, squeeze out the air, seal, clip off a lower corner and squeeze the paint back into the original can/bucket. Kind of like a pastery chef. Discard bag.
> 
> Bags are cheap. The can has a large base to help keep it stable. Best of all it is cheap and virtually mess free. You can get the containers at some Senior Centers also.
> 
> Not quite as good as Chip's kiddee pool but effective.
> 
> For my shop vac; I have two 25' sections of hose that can be used independantly or hooked togeter. Along side of each hose is a wire; tie wrapped along the length to a switch at the end ,for a remote power switch. This setup lets me keep the vacuum outside for noise as well as dust control. I got the hose and parts at a vacuum store here in town; we have 3, go figure.


nice, helpful info. Pretty innovative too. Have you found that using such a long hose on the vacuum weakens the sucking power? :whistling2: 'cause we wouldn't want anything to lose its sucking potential 



DeanV said:


> I used to use lambswool/sheep skin, because I loved the low spatter and fast clean out, but the texture they leave is too much. A pro-dooz leaves a much lighter, even stipple and looks better, especially in deep colors. I still miss the lambswool sometimes because of how they applied the paint, but the final appearance was not up to my standards.
> 
> I have also taking to tossing the roller covers more often.


I'm w/ you- I used to be a lambswool fan until I looked at the finish in the sunlight:no:. So then I employed them only for ceilings 'cause i do love how they clean up. Finally I said screw it and only use the Supedooz and Prodooz.



Slingah said:


> this is probaly the oldest trick in the book
> run five-in-one around the rim of empty gallon can to cut it out ( or use can opener) peel label and clean out....perfect paint pot...


I used to do this, but I realized I like having the standard lip on the paint can to help catch drips. But it is annoying when you can't get all the water out. I started just inserting the 5-in-1 in one spot creating a slit, where I always wipe the brush off, which is adequate for letting the water run out. It also allows the paint to drip back down into the can without building up on the lip.

Great post- I've read some pretty interesting things. There are so many tips and tricks I do throughout the day, that it would be impossible to list them all, (plus most of you probably already know them). Here are a few:

Aside from cutting a slit into the lips of the paint cans, one useful tip I've learned is to give your latex brushes and rollers, (if you're one of those who actually cleans your rollers), a final wash with diluted Spray 9. This will breakdown all of the oils that tends to leave them a little stiff the next day.

Also, if you use trays for rolling, you can cover them between coats with another tray upside down of the same size. The hooks on the roller handle will wedge in nicely where the trays meet up. If you're worried about a little air gettin in, cover the whole thing with a small drop or wet towel.

If you have a stubborn brush with flared bristles, you can wet it down and press it overnight with anything that has a hard edge but that's not too heavy, (like a carboard box or sumthin). If the shape doesn't come back, divorce the thing...man cut her off and turn her into a duster!

I always tape off outlets and switches, not because I'm messy, but because it prevents them from being splattered and it allows you to roll around them confidently. This prevents those holidays that always seem to appear around 'em. It's good to vacuum them 1st to rid of all the drywall bits.

-jt


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## WisePainter

If you are using a low boy sprayer and drawing from a gallon can, put it inside of a 5'er so it won't tip and dump your material everywhere.


----------



## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT

Put a business card or 4 behind a switch plate or other non-visual place (tape it to top of fridge, behind a door hinge, under carpet).
Cut top off of 1 gal. bucket for a cut in pot it keeps the paint from sliding back down when you rinse it,although if you like to wipe your brush instead of a slap disregard this tip.
Take apart a 16-24 ft. extension ladder so it is now in 2 pieces and put some extendible legs on both sections, these are my most used ladders on exteriors because they are light weight and safer than using a freestanding.
Buy all the paint before you start the job. At the very least make sure all the colors are chosen and approved with sample cards (big ones).
Never discuss wages with other subs or co-workers and the reason for this it is never fair to compare. Everybody has certain qualities and they vary in usefulness.


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## ParagonVA

WisePainter said:


> If you are using a low boy sprayer and drawing from a gallon can, put it inside of a 5'er so it won't tip and dump your material everywhere.


good one:yes:


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## Quaid?

cut a hole in the lid of an empty five. on interiors, you can wash your brush and then put it on a spinner, stick it through the hole in the 5 lid, and spin


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## 1977corey

WisePainter said:


> If you are using a low boy sprayer and drawing from a gallon can, put it inside of a 5'er so it won't tip and dump your material everywhere.


Nice. i love the SIMPLEST tips and tricks.:thumbsup:


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## painttofish

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> Put a business card or 4 behind a switch plate or other non-visual place (tape it to top of fridge, behind a door hinge, under carpet)


Why do you do this?


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT

painttofish said:


> Why do you do this?


So I can fish more?


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## HeatherP

I've drilled a bunch of holes near the top of a 5gal bucket, inserted some pegs used for hanging things on pegboard, fill the bucket part way with water and can hang dirty brushes in the water. Then after I have cleaned them I spin them and hang them back up to dry and on to another job...i guess that's how I store my good brushes too.


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## Wolfgang

In the summer, when doing exteriors, I keep a 5 of soapy (Dawn) water and another 5 of clean water to toss my brushes in to soak, and just break out another one. They clean up real easy at the end of a day or when I have to rotate them.

Keep the charcoal filter portion of your respirators in a ziplock baggy, it keeps the charcoal activated longer.

I have a large soft leather nail pouch with multiple pockets I wear when doing exteriors. Use it to hold various tools and extra spray tips when I'm up on a ladder.

I use my old white socks on the ends of ladders and stand-offs over the rubber bumpers.

Great idea Heather on the hooks in the 5, I've been doing that for years; it really saves on the brushes and allows the soapy water to get up into the ferule portion and the paint to dissolve and run out.


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## painttofish

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> So I can fish more?



umm. ok.


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## [email protected]

I have started putting a peice of tape accross one side/edge of my cut bucket. More as a reminder witch side of the bucket I am cutting from. Witch keeps the handle cleaner then keeps my hands cleaner.


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## johnpaint

[email protected] said:


> I have started putting a peice of tape accross one side/edge of my cut bucket. More as a reminder witch side of the bucket I am cutting from. Witch keeps the handle cleaner then keeps my hands cleaner.


I love that: I use to do that for when we were painting the same color with flat, and a bucket of S/G because guy's were picking up the wrong pail to touch up with.


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## Slingah

don't clean paint off electric outlets with steel wool...:no:


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## johnpaint

Slingah said:


> don't clean paint off electric outlets with steel wool...:no:


That brings a whole new meaning to: Lite me up.


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## HORIZON

These have been great........lots of good everyday info here guys ....thanks


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## PeteL

Keep a working 5er fresh for days by covering with a spare drop.
A squirt of dish detergent keeps synthetic brushes soft after cleaning.
If you need to patch a small small hole in sheetrock, slap on some mud and press a piece of aluminum flashing on it, add more mud. 
For bigger holes, square off the hole, cut a piece of rock about 2" bigger all around. Now cut the BACK of the patch to fit leaving 1" all around, remove all but the paper front and you have a patch that needs no tape.


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## tsunamicontract

I usually cut one side of my dw patches back to a stud. I screw on a 2x3 piece of stud as a sister stud. I get flawless patches that are very durable. I use clips on the other side.


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## ParagonVA

tsunamicontract said:


> I usually cut one side of my dw patches back to a stud. I screw on a 2x3 piece of stud as a sister stud. I get flawless patches that are very durable. I use clips on the other side.


Now _that's_ the way to do it. 

Using the old "flappy" method just doesn't cut it for me, unless you're in a garage.


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## playedout6

There has been a lot of great tips in this thread . It is very interesting to hear how other guys do things from other parts of the continent . When I first started reading the thread I figured I would have lots of tips to post but I thought it would be wise to read thru the whole post before I gave one . Well...I don't know if there are any left LOL !

I liked the one about cutting in on stilts...great idea . We have a set but only one guy has used them and it is much faster for cutting in without a doubt . Along those lines...pardon the pun , I might add that if you are young and just starting out that you can improve your speed cutting in if you are able to use both hands[I'm not sure , but maybe everybody on here does use both hands ?] .

My partner is a Southpaw and I'm a righty but we both learned that it was a big advantage to be able to use both especially if you are on a 40footer painting an eve on an old house . That climbing up and down can be a killer on the knees . 
It also impresses the customer if you switch hands while cutting in trims and such in a room and again makes the job go faster . I get a kick out of a new guy on my crew who always starts off in the corner cutting in just one wall when it is so simple to use both hands and do another 4feet without climbing up and down the ladder .

When I first started out painting my arm ached like it was going to fall right off while at the top of those high ladders, I was only 16 . That basically made it a necessity to learn how to use the other hand just so my right hand could rest and the burning sensation would cease and then bammo...switch back . 

Another thing that I do while cutting in is I take a fairly loaded angled sash brush , enough for a 3-3.5 ft stretch and do my initial cut across the target and I keep it down a hair or 2 and then I use the short haired side of the brush to come back towards me to get a more controlled and truer line and then finally I feather it out using the longer side of the brush on the final run across . 

We have a huge problem in our area because the crack fillers suck thus cutting in is always an adventure but this is the method that works best for me when I am into bad seams that are fat and tricky or along door frames that are rounded from caulk .


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## paintslinger

some oil on the door hinge barrels makes it so it doesnt stick to the barrel when opening and shutting the door


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## graybear13

I use a safety belt when rolling off a forty . It lets me keep both hands free to work the roller pole and takes the strain off your back . I keep a roll of saran wrap at the jobsite to wrap brushes, rollers in when I take a lunch break to keep them from drying out. Keep a large two-handed club handy to beat drywallers who do knockdown .


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## [email protected]

:jester:







:jester:


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## johnpaint

graybear13 said:


> I use a safety belt when rolling off a forty . It lets me keep both hands free to work the roller pole and takes the strain off your back . I keep a roll of saran wrap at the jobsite to wrap brushes, rollers in when I take a lunch break to keep them from drying out. Keep a large two-handed club handy to beat drywallers who do knockdown .


Tell us more about your safety belt and how you use it.Whats does it look like?


----------



## admirableptg

black spray paint on screen overspay. grey,black and white spray with dirt on the roof. Colors can vary with color of roof but the dirt is always a must..?


----------



## tedrin

WD40 for sqeaky cages

Dish soap to clean rollers...Spin,wrap in plastic till next use

Use Large plastic garbage pail with wheels as a method to tote my tools,paint,drops etc...from van to job site...

Mr long arm saves my back on a daily basis..No more bending or kicking the tray around.

Sirius radio all day long!...Talk shows,sports,news tunes..Best investment ever!


----------



## tedrin

WD40 for sqeaky cages

Dish soap to clean rollers...Spin,wrap in plastic till next use

Use Large plastic garbage pail with wheels as a method to tote my tools,paint,drops etc...from van to job site...

Mr long arm saves my back on a daily basis..No more bending or kicking the tray around.

Sirius radio all day long!...Talk shows,sports,news tunes..Best investment ever!


----------



## [email protected]

I use an ice scraper squeegee to clean off my metal shield. 



I had gotten one of these for the car years ago and one day while on a job, I was trying to think of what I could use to recycle the fairly wet paint from my shield back into the paint bucket and while digging around in the car I ran across this particular ice scraper. I have been using it ever since... It just sits in a 5'er of water that I use to rinse the shield off in. The scraper part is good to get the dryer parts of the paint off too. Love it!

----

And it's made in the USA! :thumbsup:


----------



## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT

Try masking off your shield with masking paper, multi layers with blue tape and 9" works best. Also on every layer fold back the last bit of tape on to itself so that you can peel off layers with gloves on. It is something that is best done the day/night before when your not hurried.


----------



## [email protected]

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> Try masking off your shield with masking paper, multi layers with blue tape and 9" works best. Also on every layer fold back the last bit of tape on to itself so that you can peel off layers with gloves on. It is something that is best done the day/night before when your not hurried.



Great idea! :thumbsup: 

I guess I was trying to recycle the paint on my sheild. 

My thought is this; you ever have that one job where you bid the exact amount of paint but barely had enough for touch-up without buying another gallon? I have had times where I had to scrape the lid and bucket and then add a bit of water to make it stretch. Well, the scraper has at least a 2 fold purpose: Cleaning the shield and putting that "touch-up" paint back into the bucket.


----------



## TooledUp

[email protected] said:


> Great idea! :thumbsup:
> 
> I guess I was trying to recycle the paint on my sheild.
> 
> My thought is this; you ever have that one job where you bid the exact amount of paint but barely had enough for touch-up without buying another gallon? I have had times where I had to scrape the lid and bucket and then add a bit of water to make it stretch. Well, the scraper has at least a 2 fold purpose: Cleaning the shield and putting that "touch-up" paint back into the bucket.



Dulux (UK anyway) will deduct the price of a paint sample tin (250 ml so maybe 1/3 pint ish?) if you buy the paint so I get them to mix the sample and the paint, ending up with that little bit extra for free if it's needed.


----------



## Major Hal

This is a really great thread, since I've read most of it, I feel like I should at least try to think of the tips I know that may help, here goes:

1.) If you paint primarily new houses, you need to have...... SPARE HINGES!!!

We take the hinges off of all the interior doors, and replace them with an old set we have which are full of overspray, while we are exchanging them, we make sure to caulk the framing, and then we put one of our hinges on the top and one on the bottom (no need to use all three).... Then, we can spray our trim/doors without having to stack the doors up or move them to another location... After all is dry, we just take off our hinges, and put the new ones back on. This only goes fast if you have a drill. Doing it by hand would take forever.

2.) when spackling a house, mix some vinly spackling with whiting (this is the white powder they use to line soccar or football fields) the spackle won't hardly shrink, and it's easier to use and manipulate than shrink-free spackling. Plus it sands great....and for pre-primed slick pieces of trim like baseboards and crown, you don't have to sand at all most of the time.

3.) If you have to cut in next to some finished cabnits, get as close as you can, even if you get some paint on the cabnits, then, take the dull back side of a raisor knife and run it along the cabnits gently, it should take off what little paint is on cabnits. Wipe clean the knife, and repeat as necessary.


----------



## ParagonVA

Major Hal said:


> This is a really great thread, since I've read most of it, I feel like I should at least try to think of the tips I know that may help, here goes:
> 
> 1.) If you paint primarily new houses, you need to have...... SPARE HINGES!!!
> 
> We take the hinges off of all the interior doors, and replace them with an old set we have which are full of overspray, while we are exchanging them, we make sure to caulk the framing, and then we put one of our hinges on the top and one on the bottom (no need to use all three).... Then, we can spray our trim/doors without having to stack the doors up or move them to another location... After all is dry, we just take off our hinges, and put the new ones back on. This only goes fast if you have a drill. Doing it by hand would take forever.


I like this idea, I think. Seems pretty plausible to me. Do you ever have any problems with the hinges getting stuck, or w/ the new ones going back on? It seems that if _your_ hinges have multiple layers of paint on them, they might not fit too well in the routed opening. If it's a three-hinge door, I guess you just stash the middle hinges somewhere during spraying?

thanks fo' the contribution


----------



## Dreamingmuscle

Major Hal said:


> This is a really great thread, since I've read most of it, I feel like I should at least try to think of the tips I know that may help, here goes:
> 
> 1.) If you paint primarily new houses, you need to have...... SPARE HINGES!!!
> 
> We take the hinges off of all the interior doors, and replace them with an old set we have which are full of overspray, while we are exchanging them, we make sure to caulk the framing, and then we put one of our hinges on the top and one on the bottom (no need to use all three).... Then, we can spray our trim/doors without having to stack the doors up or move them to another location... After all is dry, we just take off our hinges, and put the new ones back on. This only goes fast if you have a drill. Doing it by hand would take forever.


Why not just take the doors off stand them up in the biggest room in a pattern like this?  / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ Nail 2 strips of 1x2s across the tops to keep them stable, then spray away. Might need some 1x2s on the bottom to keep them from sticking to the floor. It seems that this would cut down on the time it takes to take off and replace hinges twice. Plus it cuts down on the time it takes to work around swinging doors while you paint the rest of the house.

I've read a lot about using grocery bags to keep rollers in. I ask all my neighbors to save the bags their news paper comes in. They are just the right size for rollers. They are easy to squeeze all the air out of too. Then I either tie a knot in the top or fold them over and put a rubber band around them. Much neater then grocery bags.

Glen


----------



## clammer

I alwalys put a finish nail in the side of my brush and bend it so it hooks on the paint can.Keeps it in the paint so it wont dry out and you never have to lay it across the top of the can


----------



## RCP

We use hinge mags on the doors.


----------



## painttofish

RCP said:


> We use hinge mags on the doors.



Do those hinge mags really work well for high end custom? No cleaning of hinges at all? What about paint build on mags? How about spraying doors and jambs while attached?


----------



## RCP

painttofish said:


> Do those hinge mags really work well for high end custom? No cleaning of hinges at all? What about paint build on mags? How about spraying doors and jambs while attached?


Might have to clean a speck here and there if not careful placing mag.
We peel the paint off the mag, helper can do while tending pot. You have to make sure when you remove them to stack them neatly. The only problem we have had is the plastic tearing after many uses. The last batch we ordered had a thicker plastic, much better. 
They are ideal for spraying in place.


----------



## painttofish

RCP said:


> Might have to clean a speck here and there if not careful placing mag.
> We peel the paint off the mag, helper can do while tending pot. You have to make sure when you remove them to stack them neatly. The only problem we have had is the plastic tearing after many uses. The last batch we ordered had a thicker plastic, much better.
> They are ideal for spraying in place.



What is the plastic part?


----------



## RCP

Look at the pix on link. See how there are 4 separate magnets. They are glued to the plastic, it covers the hinge, makes it "flexible".


----------



## Major Hal

ParagonVA said:


> I like this idea, I think. Seems pretty plausible to me. Do you ever have any problems with the hinges getting stuck, or w/ the new ones going back on? It seems that if _your_ hinges have multiple layers of paint on them, they might not fit too well in the routed opening. If it's a three-hinge door, I guess you just stash the middle hinges somewhere during spraying?
> 
> thanks fo' the contribution


Naw, not any problems with the hinges gettng stuck, and you're right, our hinges with all those layers of paint don't always fit correctly, but we don't have to screw in flush because it's just a temporary way of keeping the doors up so we can spray them..... as long as they're up, their good.



Dreamingmuscle said:


> Why not just take the doors off stand them up in the biggest room in a pattern like this? / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ Nail 2 strips of 1x2s across the tops to keep them stable, then spray away. Might need some 1x2s on the bottom to keep them from sticking to the floor. It seems that this would cut down on the time it takes to take off and replace hinges twice. Plus it cuts down on the time it takes to work around swinging doors while you paint the rest of the house.


 We used to do it the way you described, until a contractor one day put a bunch of extra crap from another job in the living room to store there for a week. We had no place to stack the doors, and I remembered I had a bunch of spare hinges because on a previous job, this lady had some gold hinges she hated. She bought some silver ones, and I fished the gold ones out of a trash pile. We've been using them ever since...... and especially if you only have one person, this method is a lot easier. It depends on the situation. We have a three man team: me, my biz partern, and we have a helper. Sometimes we send the helper in a house first to prep, and he swaps out the hinges himself (it's a lot easier for two guys to stand the doors up as you described, but you need only one to swap hinges), so we don't have to stand the doors up ourselves. We can just go in and spray. I guess it depends on the situation sometimes. 

However, the method you are talking about is WAAY better if you're in a house with let's say 8 foot ceilings, but the living room is 10 or 12 feet because of overspray getting on the ceiling. But if the whole house is 10 ft ceilings, it's better to swap hinges.


----------



## Dreamingmuscle

Major Hal said:


> Naw, not any problems with the hinges gettng stuck, and you're right, our hinges with all those layers of paint don't always fit correctly, but we don't have to screw in flush because it's just a temporary way of keeping the doors up so we can spray them..... as long as they're up, their good.



Boil them in water the paint will just fall off.

Glen


----------



## tsunamicontract

Dreamingmuscle said:


> Boil them in water the paint will just fall off.
> 
> Glen


:yes::yes:

great way to get paint off any metal object. Crock pot works well too.


----------



## lugi

Hotdog rollor behind bathroom tolite tank were normal rollor wont fit car wash brush for metal roof coating beter finish no splatter at end of tin.homade pot hooks board across ladder for brittle sideing tint primer for less finish coats put holes around paint can after you take the lid off your paint will not run down can...


----------



## ParagonVA

grammatical mastery ^


----------



## lugi

OK Hotdog roller behind bathroom toilet tank were normal roller will not fit car wash brush for metal roof coating better finish no splatter at end of tin.homage pot hooks board across ladder for brittle siding tint primer for less finish coats put holes around paint can after you take the lid off your paint will not run down can...lol lots of work last years jobs first.


----------



## [email protected]

I think the holes in the can causes it's ability to lose the seal when fitting the lid back on Otherwise yeah it works for draining your paint Maybe it's good for a cutt-n can whoever may use a gallon can for cutting.


----------



## playedout6

Our cans here in Canada are 3.78 liters and that is all our crew has ever used for the last 20+ years . :yes:


----------



## LakeShore

The trick to get a job done fast. 



Move your arm faster!

LOL. I tell this to all my guys.

Jeff


----------



## WAGGZ

I will occasionally wash out my sheep skins with hair conditioner. To save time through out the day if I have to color change I'll throw them in a 5 of water and wash when I get home. Once they're clean I store them in gallon zip lock bags. I use the ones with the zipper, you know they're sealed and the moisture that stays in the bag keeps them from drying out.


----------



## BESMAN

for long extension cords..

get a 5-gal bucket make a hole on the side close to the bottom...enough to stick the "male" end of cord out the hole. Then feed the cord in circling the bucket. "female" end will be on top to plug tool into, keep bucket next to outlet....when done, recoil...no tangles.


----------



## ken blankenship

"for long extension cords..

get a 5-gal bucket make a hole on the side close to the bottom...enough to stick the "male" end of cord out the hole. Then feed the cord in circling the bucket. "female" end will be on to to plug tool into, keep bucket next to outlet....when done, recoil...no tangles."

Thanks..this is awesome!


----------



## BESMAN

I don't mess around Brotha :thumbsup


----------



## daArch

Good tip Besman, but you reminded me of something I bought two years ago, and as much as I hate to steal your thunder, but I can't help myself - it's a great tool. 

this was bought at HD, or Lowes or someplace: Notice the four outlets, no more unplugging and plugging in those four tools fed by one cord:


----------



## BESMAN

one upper.


yeah, I'm aware of the ones you can buy, which are sweet. My method is more of.....a way to get some use out of an old bucket. Plus its free. i do it for especially long cords, connect a couple even. Its quick and easy to clean up.


----------



## nEighter

daArch said:


> Good tip Besman, but you reminded me of something I bought two years ago, and as much as I hate to steal your thunder, but I can't help myself - it's a great tool.
> 
> this was bought at HD, or Lowes or someplace: Notice the four outlets, no more unplugging and plugging in those four tools fed by one cord:
> 
> View attachment 3356


:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy: I need some of those! Cord comes with it correct? Thick gauged for the use of all those plugs? AND how long is the cord? 50'?


----------



## BESMAN

wait till you guys see my post about wearing swim goggles when sanding/scraping eves


----------



## daren

BESMAN said:


> wait till you guys see my post about wearing swim goggles when sanding/scraping eves


I'm numb and gitty with anticipation


----------



## daArch

nEighter said:


> :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy: I need some of those! Cord comes with it correct? Thick gauged for the use of all those plugs? AND how long is the cord? 50'?


Nathan,

That one came without the cord, it was for a VERY long one I have. I bought it after working in a four story stairwell with pipe staging. At the end of the day, I had to drop it down the stair well to untangle and then coil it up. And each morning was PITA too. 

I do have a 25 footer that came in the reel. I bought it for use outside by the pool when we wanted to use our laptops, but it's so damn handy, it sit's now in my van. "Daaaaaad ?!, where's the extension cord for out by the pool?" "Oops, it's on the job!" :thumbup:

And I also have the real cheap reel only with no outlets for another LOOOONG one. I've gone all spools/reels except for a 12 footer.


----------



## nEighter

I have 4 spools myself. I like that idea WAY better though. I am going to look into that and scoop it up for my next job. It would eliminate the other cords. Changing cords between my mitre saw to my table saw to my jig saw to my sawzall is enough to start throwing stuff. Got a number in your head you go to the saw go to flip it on and nothing. Oh damnit I forgot to unplug one for this one


----------



## aaron61

nEighter said:


> I have 4 spools myself. I like that idea WAY better though. I am going to look into that and scoop it up for my next job. It would eliminate the other cords. Changing cords between my mitre saw to my table saw to my jig saw to my sawzall is enough to start throwing stuff. Got a number in your head you go to the saw go to flip it on and nothing. Oh damnit I forgot to unplug one for this one


Why not use a multi plug?


----------



## BrushJockey

Haven't had that problem. And I use almost any clear that way, but Peel bond is of course the heaviest body. But Gardz, Peel Stop will also work.

HAHA-- I'm answering a response from page 7! ( caulking- peel bonding tape edges- )


----------



## aaron61

BrushJockey said:


> Haven't had that problem. And I use almost any clear that way, but Peel bond is of course the heaviest body. But Gardz, Peel Stop will also work.


:blink::blink:


----------



## nEighter

aaron61 said:


> Why not use a multi plug?


exactly! I hadn't seen one of those before Arch posted that one. I want one now!!


----------



## aaron61

We actually use several that I think are called "The Octopus" It's a short heavy duty chord with eight 1' extensions running off of it.


----------



## daArch

aaron61 said:


> Why not use a multi plug?


Aaron,

I like yours better - it is much more stylized.


----------



## tsunamicontract

daArch said:


> Aaron,
> 
> I like yours better - it is much more stylized.


it even has helpful arrows that tell you which way to turn it :thumbup:


----------



## aaron61

We *have this one for setting up to run crown molding.







*


----------



## aaron61

This is like the octopus


----------



## tsunamicontract

aaron61 said:


> This is like the octopus


I have one of those, they are great for working with several tools on ladders because with the whip plug you can tie them together so you don't loose power unexpectedly. I call it a squid as it does not have 8 "tentacles"


----------



## Workaholic

aaron61 said:


> We *have this one for settibg up to run crown molding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I have one like this too only it is solid green.


----------



## nEighter

aaron61 said:


> We *have this one for settibg up to run crown molding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



man I need to get out more. Another one I hadn't seen!


----------



## aaron61

You're right, it's a squid....I was kjnda close with octopus!!!!!!!


----------



## DanielMDollaPainting

Wolfgang said:


> Buy a couple Rubbermaid bath tub no slip mats. They have all the suction cups on the back and are padded. I use them in tile/marble/wood entrys or where ever I dont want my ladder to slip.


 When I do two story foyers I use a 20 foot wooden extension ladder to cut in the top ceiling/walls. I put those rubber ladder mits on the bottom so as not to slip on the hardwood floors. Works awesome and protects the floor too. I cut in twice, get the ladder out of the house and then roll with an extension pole.


----------



## DanielMDollaPainting

I use a 5 gallon bucket upside down to stand on and cut in 8ft ceilings. I've been doing this for a few years. When My dad was alive we aways used wood ladders and I still do alot, but I find the bucket is easier/faster to kick around the room. It also takes up less space along the wall and between furniture. I don't have to pull heavy stuff out as far. What does everybody else use? I haven't found a small stepladder yet that takes up less floor space than the bucket. The heigth of the bucket puts me right where I need to be especially with a longer handled brush.


----------



## timhag

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> I use a 5 gallon bucket upside down to stand on and cut in 8ft ceilings. I've been doing this for a few years. When My dad was alive we aways used wood ladders and I still do alot, but I find the bucket is easier/faster to kick around the room. It also takes up less space along the wall and between furniture. I don't have to pull heavy stuff out as far. What does everybody else use? I haven't found a small stepladder yet that takes up less floor space than the bucket. The heigth of the bucket puts me right where I need to be especially with a longer handled brush.


----------



## BrushJockey

For a step up on 8" ceilings, I love these little guys. Fold to 2" thick, sturdy as hell. and you don't have to dump out all the stuff that will find it's way into a bucket. 
They also make a 2 step version- I use them both.


----------



## DanielMDollaPainting

BrushJockey said:


> For a step up on 8" ceilings, I love these little guys. Fold to 2" thick, sturdy as hell. and you don't have to dump out all the stuff that will find it's way into a bucket.
> They also make a 2 step version- I use them both.


 The look pretty neat. Maybe look into those. Thanks.


----------



## MercierPainting

I like to grab roof shingle debris from the gutter and sprinkle it over nail holes from roof jacks after filling them with roof tar. It is much nicer on the eyes from the ground than black spots. This is much easier in newer neighborhoods as there is pretty much nothing but this stuff in the gutter because the trees aren't tall enough to drop anything in them.

20 and 5 minute mud changed my life.

Tape off ladder mitts to keep them from smudging walls.

A sprayer shield makes a great drop when free handing staircase risers.

Great post, timeless advice in here. I logged on an hour ago looking for something else entirely!


----------



## jenni

dont do this:


----------



## RH

Hmmm... anyone we know?


----------



## DeanV

jenni said:


> dont do this:


Bah. My old boss moved me on a fully extended 32' IA ladder. That is nothing.


----------



## BrushJockey

That is a good'n!


----------



## Schmidt & Co.

That's ONE way to cut around the light.


----------



## DeanV

We interlocked two 20' extension ladders to essentially creat a big step ladder to cut a ceiling fan on once.
Again, former boss.


----------



## DK Remodeling

jenni said:


> dont do this:


I can't believe that guy is wearing a black t shirt, of course I would never do that.


----------



## Goode Painters

love the 14 inch covers the - these days i only use 9 inchers for closets and bathrooms - but heres the tip --- the 14 inchers fit perfect in a five of water wit the top on - unlike 18 inch covers- i just scrape the paint out and keep em wet - buy the good covers u can keep em forever as long as u dont let em dry the wooster prodooz are great i love the 3/8 nap nice flat finish and they seem to get better with use!


----------



## Workaholic

DeanV said:


> We interlocked two 20' extension ladders to essentially creat a big step ladder to cut a ceiling fan on once.
> Again, former boss.


My worse as an employee was ratchet strapping a 1/2 of a 24' to a 40' I did not climb it but would have. My buddy at the time who was volunteered looked to me to decide if it was safe. I told him I would climb it and he got it done. Never seen it done since but hear ppl talk about it. 

On that particular house a lift would of been difficult do to slope,usable width and cheap boss.

EDIT: Painttalk discaimer. Please do not attempt the above as it can lead to death.


----------



## Red Truck

Some awesome tips here - thanks guys.

I like to always wear a small 'satchel' or tool pouch on my belt with a 5in1, sander, screwdriver...sounds simple but can be a big time waster if you don't have one.

Also some tools which may have been mentioned: Pivot Tool, Speed Bucket, Full Circle Sander, Random Orbital, ProShot. Keep all of these handy. Plus a hammer :whistling2:


----------



## Scotiadawg

Workaholic said:


> My worse as an employee was ratchet strapping a 1/2 of a 24' to a 40' I did not climb it but would have. My buddy at the time who was volunteered looked to me to decide if it was safe. I told him I would climb it and he got it done. Never seen it done since but hear ppl talk about it.
> 
> On that particular house a lift would of been difficult do to slope,usable width and cheap boss.
> 
> EDIT: Painttalk discaimer. Please do not attempt the above as it can lead to death.


We've been doing that for years. Church steeples are prime candidates, start with a 40, than a 32 than a 24. just takes a bit of effort to get the damn thing up on the building.:yes:


----------



## DeanV

Yep. I have not seen it done, but my former boos's father did the time ladders together for steeples. They used to be able to get fire departments to bring out ladder trucks, but that does not fly anymore.


----------



## Scotiadawg

DeanV said:


> Yep. I have not seen it done, but my former boos's father did the time ladders together for steeples. They used to be able to get fire departments to bring out ladder trucks, but that does not fly anymore.


yep, back in the good old days before there were lifts ( around here anyway) that was the usual way to do them. Pretty scary the first time up, by the time you reach the top your toes are cramped against the side of the building, good idea to go take a leak before you climb


----------



## Marion

I use these, without the wringer, for roller buckets.


----------



## Red Truck

Nice roller bucket!


----------



## Truckee Painter

*knock down walls*



asthma76 said:


> spray the walls. let it dry. mask off walls with blue+plastic. spray ceiling. thats only if you're doing both walls+ceiling.


Here in Tahoe knock down is everywhere. I always shoot the ceiling first getting into the corners and edges. Then I come back and cut in the walls where they meet the ceiling by eye. Tape will never work since it will run under it and and if its knock down it isn't really a straight line anyways. Its not if its straight its if it looks good. Never have any overlap on the walls since that is where it stands out the most.


----------



## Brian C

I'm like a lot of you guys. I think I have seen and heard everything in our painting trade, but my apprentice taught me something new.

When you wipe out your paint pot, leave it on its side and it dries out quicker. Try it, it works a treat !


----------



## wje

Brian C said:


> I'm like a lot of you guys. I think I have seen and heard everything in our painting trade, but my apprentice taught me something new.
> 
> When you wipe out your paint pot, leave it on its side and it dries out quicker. Try it, it works a treat !


That sounds like something discovered by mistake..


----------



## modernfinish

Major Hal said:


> This is a really great thread, since I've read most of it, I feel like I should at least try to think of the tips I know that may help, here goes:
> 
> 1.) If you paint primarily new houses, you need to have...... SPARE HINGES!!!
> 
> We take the hinges off of all the interior doors, and replace them with an old set we have which are full of overspray, while we are exchanging them, we make sure to caulk the framing, and then we put one of our hinges on the top and one on the bottom (no need to use all three).... Then, we can spray our trim/doors without having to stack the doors up or move them to another location... After all is dry, we just take off our hinges, and put the new ones back on. This only goes fast if you have a drill. Doing it by hand would take forever.
> 
> .



This


----------



## Ramsden Painting

----------
---
---
---
---------

My painting tip

Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


----------



## Schmidt & Co.

Ramsden Painting said:


> ----------
> ---
> ---
> ---
> ---------
> 
> My painting tip
> 
> Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


Morse code?


----------



## nogg

Stilts for applying wallpaper border.Really pays off if you have alot to put up.I've used it in hotel work.


----------



## cdaniels

nogg said:


> Stilts for applying wallpaper border.Really pays off if you have a lot to put up.I've used it in hotel work.


Never used stilts but a man with an extension pole holding border while I work it and move my ladder sure helps.


----------



## AZ Painting

Here is some of our tricks that we train our employees with:

If your not using tray liners for your trays, then make sure to fully coat the tray with the paint while cleaning the it. Over time you can just peal the entire paint off and have a new tray again. 

Instead of washing your brush and roller at customer home, have a bucket of water and have them in there. By the time you get to your work shop there would be less paint on the roller or brush and it will take less time to clean, then you could recycle that pale of paint water along with your empty gallons. 

cover your brush and rollers with a plastic, making sure that all openings are taped so there is no air hitting them and you could re-use your ready brush or roller the next day. 

Cut a bit of a 2.5" painters tape and have it around the top part of your new brush where is connected and held by the aluminum part before using, it keeps the brush clean longer, and it also stops the paint going all the way up into the brush hairs.

Cheers,


----------



## Nardin




----------



## Painter-Aaron

A great tip my step dad (a roofer) told me, was when working on a steeper shingled roof, put a chunk of foam down and it grips to the shingles like glue. I was a bit skeptical but I tried it out once on a steep roof and it worked like magic. (Of course I had a harness set up as well but the foam allowed me to walk around more freely)


----------



## Sully

The foam in old couch cushions works great when kneeling on steep shingle roofs. 

One I'm surprised I haven't seen yet is using two or three work platforms in succession when cutting in the highs. Makes it much faster than getting down off the platform numerous times and it saves your knees.


----------



## daArch

DeanV said:


> We interlocked two 20' extension ladders to essentially creat a big step ladder to cut a ceiling fan on once.
> Again, former boss.


This is something I have SERIOUSLY been trying to figure out. taking two halfs of a 34 and SAFELY tying them together to form a 17' A frame. I got the spreader all figured out, but not how to secure the ends together so they won't slip up or down. 

Ideas would be welcomed, and kept confidential  :whistling2::whistling2:



Workaholic said:


> My worse as an employee was ratchet strapping a 1/2 of a 24' to a 40' I did not climb it but would have. My buddy at the time who was volunteered looked to me to decide if it was safe.


YUP, BTDT. But we wimped out and only used an 8' section on the 40. Sent the lightest and tallest up to hit the peak of a Tudor. 


My tip? with ladders? I've made my own speaders for both my L'il Giant and 8' step. they clamp on and ARE safe. Sometimes the Li'l Giant spreads too far for the stair well and you loose all value of it. By pulling the legs together, you can add feet to the height. 

And closing the opening of the 8' allows it to fit in a tighter spot and gets me closer to the wall. 

common sense will allow you to make SAFE spreaders. I doubt OSHA has enough common sense to realize they ARE safe. :whistling2:


----------



## Paradigmzz

Ramsden Painting said:


> ----------
> ---
> -----
> ---
> ---------
> 
> My painting tip
> 
> Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


Look at it again.... the spacing is off...


----------



## Paradigmzz

Ramsden Painting said:


> ----------
> ---
> -----
> ---
> ---------
> 
> My painting tip
> 
> Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


Look at it again....

--------
........----
...........-------
........----
--------


----------



## Ramsden Painting

It's my painting tip

Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


----------



## Paradigmzz

Ramsden Painting said:


> It's my painting tip
> 
> Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


Im g iving you credit. I just edited it so everyone had a clue what you meant.


----------



## Painto

When you hire people, pay them well, but start them low so they'll work! I've overpaid so many guys and they had no incentive to work harder.


----------



## Damon T

When spraying cabinet doors hanging, don't try to get full coverage on a color change in one coat. I need to keep learning this the hard way.


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR

Damon T said:


> When spraying cabinet doors hanging, don't try to get full coverage on a color change in one coat. I need to keep learning this the hard way.


Hire a Pro.


----------



## Damon T

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Hire a Pro.


Ouch!


----------



## ewingpainting.net

Not just one tip, but two. :thumbsup:


----------



## Geddy L

nextlevelpaintco. said:


> heres another tip,this is the senerio.on the job miles away from the shop your hardcore spraying,suddenly the lower packings go out,no backup sprayer to far to go get another one.Get a torch if no torch crank the van. find a metal work pot remove your packings put them in the pot fill with enough brake fluid to submerge them and set it on the engine, let it get hot real hot.put the packings back in while still hot the pump should be good for another 50 gallons atleast.


HAAHAH what??...I'd clean up,get a six pack and head home first..


----------



## cdaniels

I have a tip for ya. Don't go into the painting business.


----------



## Cockney Geezer

I used to buy paint in smaller half gallon cans...once I had finished painting the frames, doors window boards etc I would pour the remaining paint into a separate can that I used for skirtings..and mark that can...nothing worse than tipping paint that contains bits of debris back into a can after you have painted skirting or maybe an exterior and then use it to paint window boards, architraves etc at eye level...


----------



## Damon T

Cockney Geezer said:


> I used to buy paint in smaller half gallon cans...once I had finished painting the frames, doors window boards etc I would pour the remaining paint into a separate can that I used for skirtings..and mark that can...nothing worse than tipping paint that contains bits of debris back into a can after you have painted skirting or maybe an exterior and then use it to paint window boards, architraves etc at eye level...


Get a bunch of those cone filters. They're cheap. Then you can just stick it on top of your paint can, and pour the old paint back in. Strained and ready for the next time. 

Harbor freight had a box of 100 for like $6 or something. 
That's one of those sundries that can vary wildly at paint stores. Sometimes they'll ding you .30 for one, or sometimes you can get a bunch for a dollar.


----------



## daArch

Never guess what this is and what it's good for:










It's a soft nylon water-proof travel dog bowl. At the suggestion of another Mass hanger, I pop-rivetted a clip on it ( from a broken tape rule) and slip it onto my belt to hold my wet rags (or sponge).

Petsmart carried the one I have.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick

Damon T said:


> Get a bunch of those cone filters. They're cheap. Then you can just stick it on top of your paint can, and pour the old paint back in. Strained and ready for the next time.
> 
> Harbor freight had a box of 100 for like $6 or something.
> That's one of those sundries that can vary wildly at paint stores. Sometimes they'll ding you .30 for one, or sometimes you can get a bunch for a dollar.


Great for shining paint into your cup guns as well like a PS2


----------



## Damon T

Yup. I always strain when pouring into my cup gun.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

When cutting in- I always use a sash/angled brush. Nothing gets the corners tighter..

When buying a new brush, dip it in one or two coats of polycrillic before using it. It keeps the latex from sticking, will easily clean off handle with green scrubby or wire brush. For oil, that will just wipe off with a dry cloth. 
You will be able to use that brush hundreds of times and it will still look new!

And my VERY FAVORITE tip for increasing productivity and providing a nearly flawless finish for trim work............(drum roll please)..........

I use a 4" whiz roller to put the latex on the trim ----> then I lay it down in one stroke with my brush. Door jambs are laid down in one stroke top to bottom, baseboard cut in and laid down in 4' strokes.


----------



## aroplate

I often do this if I'm having problems with clear lacquer, have you ever sprayed your final topcoat of lacquer only to have it blush and turn white or fisheye? Next time that happens instead of sanding and spraying another coat on everything, just spray lacquer thinner or retarder over the topcoat and it will re activate the lacquer allowing the moisture to escape, you can even add some smoothie to the thinner to remove fisheye.


----------



## aroplate

Another tip- when brushing with oil base enamel you can pickle the brush in water overnight and it won't dry out, just dab dry the next day and your back to work.
That's an old timers trick


----------



## Lazerline

When I was learning to work with mud one thing I was told that really stuck in my head and helped me out was,
"When Skimming it's okay to leave minor peaks for the sander but not okay to leave valleys, When sanding its okay to leave valleys for the skim but not peaks."


----------



## TJ Paint

Know exactly the full cost of painting that wall.


----------



## Paradigmzz

When forced to do acoustic on the ground, let dry to touxh af ter spraying and set face to face with parchment paper between. The weight of subsequent layers lays the panels flat and eliminates cupping.


----------



## Krittterkare

goodenough said:


> A plastic grocery bag fits nicely over a five and a roller for storage overnight -- stays wet. Two nights, it starts to dry out.


I will also use produce bags and the original roller cover plastic for rollers and a skim of water over a 5 of paint that a sprayer is in.

Masking film for a brush can last for 2 or 3 days.


----------



## Krittterkare

dragula said:


> Bump.
> 
> Next level states that Syn Motor Oil/Hair Gel are respective replacements for Penetrol/Floetrol.
> 
> I'm having a hard time believing either of these...
> 
> Comments?


Hmmm? seems like the original products might be well better suited for the job, both hair gell and Syn Motor Oil might never dry proper and be in the finish forever kind of never mixing.


----------



## ridesarize

dhp said:


> LOL i have my guys on the top of a 32 foot ladder on stilts....or the top top of a 12 foot step, cutting in  we get it done.
> 
> all we have is knockdown here, you cut the best you can, just as fast as you can.....
> 
> when I paint (which i dont do much anymore) i cut the ceiling to wall transition or accent wall painting the wall color (or accent) around all the edges (pre cut we call it). then i tape off the edge, no plastic or paper just a strip of tape. then i take a sprayer and a small tip (211) and blast the precut again with the ceiling color or wall color. there is no mess cause its such a small amount of paint...... peel the tape a roll it out.
> 
> seems like a lot of steps, but it makes PERFECT lines on knockdown, and may only add about an hour. FWIWW 99% of the people never appreciate it.
> 
> when re-painting old wood facia, we scrape sand etc etc. then i mix in some latex caulk to the paint....making a milkshake (we call it that)
> it adds HUGE amounts of elasticity....spans all the cracking, even after caulking.....lasts much longer.
> 
> i never drop brushes in water, we have zip lock bags and cut the corner off for the handle....throw the bruch in a zip it up. good for days...
> 
> i take rollers and roll them up in tinfoil....good overnight...


whywould all you guys wrap rollers brushes in wierd things, like ziplock bags and tinfoil. We use painter plastic on every job so i just cut piece to roll my roller up in several rolls lasts months literally like fresh paint. Wrap up brushes air tight for weeks. I have a freebie contractor brush i used arbor coat solid with 3 months ago. I wrapped it up in plastic and threw it in van expecting to throw it away. I just checked it still supple after 3 months.


----------



## Krittterkare

3) door stands that V the doors by attaching to where the hinges are.

13) Biggest secret, Work hard[/QUOTE]

:thumbup:

Number 13 is a good thing and Number 3 is just awesome!
I have seen products to lock doors together when hinges were always there. I think this is the best answer to doing doors I have ever seen with all the brain storming we have done this is so simple it is genius.


----------



## Krittterkare

2) don't ever use super spec interior

I am in a Mountain town and S.S. is all that is available and it flashes like crazy I sprayed out a new condo and with no fingering some really bad lap marks and rolling the same thing even when rolling in the same direction top to bottom with multiple coats Frustrating! 

One thing for sure is Super Spec requires 2 coats to reach the desired color no matter what sheen of paint so touch up on a one coat job is hardly an option.


----------



## Workaholic

wth.


----------



## Krittterkare

rennaux said:


> anyone have any tips on cutting in heavy knock-down walls?



Yes just caulking the corners before any paint hits the wall then tape and and a 4" roller and back brush to cut in if the heavy texture is an issue but a caulk line and tape if needed for a clean line.

Otherwise some thinning with floetrol and some water can save hours in cutting in. 
I have a viscosity 567 cut in rule, If thinning paint you want to dab your finger in the paint with thumb and middle finger and rub together and count in seconds or motions to when it stops feeling lubricated and begins feeling tacky.

I have lots of years exterior painting days in a dry climate and same thing with interior heavy texture you can spend 5 minutes cutting in a 6 foot space or glide through with lubricated paint, Caulking helps a lot and taping helps but consider the taping time VS. just cutting in.


----------



## Krittterkare

Michigan11 said:


> Ha, that is awesome. About ten years ago, I got stilts for 2 of my guys on interior re-paints, they got so good on them they could run down the streets in them - funny as hell to see.
> 
> If you have a big crew or big interior jobs, stilts are the way to go to cut in the upper trim, customers love watching but get nervous as hell though.



OK I am going to buy some, I do enough dry wall that moving ladders cost time.


----------



## ridesarize

PeteL said:


> Keep a working 5er fresh for days by covering with a spare drop.
> A squirt of dish detergent keeps synthetic brushes soft after cleaning.
> If you need to patch a small small hole in sheetrock, slap on some mud and press a piece of aluminum flashing on it, add more mud.
> For bigger holes, square off the hole, cut a piece of rock about 2" bigger all around. Now cut the BACK of the patch to fit leaving 1" all around, remove all but the paper front and you have a patch that needs no tape.


tip 1. a lid is better.
tip 3. if you don't have stronger piece of wood, take two stir sticks, wrap together with blonde tape (several wraps) around them in at least two spots. Stick inside of hole in wall and screw that in with drywall screws (through drywall into stir sticks) (as backing), then stick on your square or round drywall piece, screw into wood backing and tape and mud or just hot mud if it's small patch.
Use 2 to secure medium sized square patches right at seems and it won't move. this is awesome when studs are far and few between or when you need an easy, successful patch.


----------



## Krittterkare

paintingchicago said:


> Use lambswool roller covers...pecifically Merinos if you can find them. (from Greece) I buy mine from a store in Evanston, IL. called Prather Paint on North Green Bay road.
> 
> I used the same two covers for the entirety of last year sometimes washing them out multiple times per day for color changes. They clean up in a minute or two with a roller spinner, hold a lot of paint with even distribution, leave no fuzz on the walls.
> 
> I've saved so much money with these things.


That and wool synthetic mixes, Crappy roller covers are about as cheap to toss then wash. One thing about full Merinos is they get loose when stored wet but that has never been an issue it seems but yes the clean time is awesome, sitting at a customers sink for 10 minutes cleaning a synthetic is just not right.


----------



## ridesarize

BESMAN said:


> wait till you guys see my post about wearing swim goggles when sanding/scraping eves


I use a old 5 gallon bucket, ball up a wad of masking paper for padding throw it in, cut eye slit in bucket and put on my head for that.


----------



## Krittterkare

DeanV said:


> I used to use lambswool/sheep skin, because I loved the low spatter and fast clean out, but the texture they leave is too much. A pro-dooz leaves a much lighter, even stipple and looks better, especially in deep colors. I still miss the lambswool sometimes because of how they applied the paint, but the final appearance was not up to my standards.
> 
> I have also taking to tossing the roller covers more often.


The natural covers do have a long stipple but the cheap synthetic covers can really over work the paints, like thousands of fibers working air in to the paint and can effect the finish plus the spatter factor.

I work with out a drop cloth or shield most of the time rolling but with a cheap cover I am forced to use protection.


----------



## ridesarize

Painter-Aaron said:


> A great tip my step dad (a roofer) told me, was when working on a steeper shingled roof, put a chunk of foam down and it grips to the shingles like glue. I was a bit skeptical but I tried it out once on a steep roof and it worked like magic. (Of course I had a harness set up as well but the foam allowed me to walk around more freely)


Carpet pad is killer for roof padding, put it above your roof jack/planks to kneel on or walk on.


----------



## ridesarize

Have 2 filters at least for your shop vac or equivalent. You don't have to go outside and empty filter into garbage can/bag the hard way. Before the one in vac gets totally clogged, while still in home(new construction) you can vac clean extra filter. Tap upright filter on or near while using brush attachment on vac hose. Put clean one in vacuum, put still dirty filter in garbage bag, slip tie closed with dirty filter. Repeat when that one gets near clogged.

-Put a little red paint or tint in spackle to see it when doing mill packs. 
-Mix 50-50 spackle with elmers or SW carpenter filler, or higher ratio spackle... for a stronger and easy sanding on cracks or holes.
-Number your doors and jambs, write number on door after taking off top hinge, cover with tape, then number again so when prepping doors, you know which ones or sides are more important than the inside of closets... On middle hinge I mark an arrow pointing to which side of door is more highly visible. I sand doors in stacks so..
-made my own vac attachments, 2.5" brush for my 4.5 hp vac with 1.5" inch hose.
-joist hangers spread to any angle to set up doors to spray (look at my album of lacquer mill pack)


----------



## ridesarize

-After you clean vac filter and put it back it, put end of hose to the blower port when you start machine up to catch that first dust.


----------



## Steve Richards

When you peel old paint out of a 5, save it..it makes a good paint-hat that you don't need to worry about getting paint on.

Swept up drywall dust and some water, makes white paste/wallpaper glue.

1" nap dried out roller covers can be used as a hairbrush.

Save your old paint shields. They make great pre-primed drywall patches, that you can cut with scissors.


----------



## Steve Richards

ridesarize said:


> I use a old 5 gallon bucket, ball up a wad of masking paper for padding throw it in, cut eye slit in bucket and put on my head for that.


Putting your company name on the outside of that bucket = free advertizing :thumbsup:

Finally..a way to hear yourself singing while scraping soffits!

"Mommy, why is that guy singing with his head in a bucket?"


Sorry guys...I'll get over this eventually. Prolly not today though.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

(GaspCough) I dont know about yall....! But I would never wrap my roller in plastic anything, any way sorta another! ...(disgraced) tried it once then twice, regretted it both times.

Besides, my non-cheapy lambskin rollers are much too important of a tool to wrap in a bag or lol tin foil (rolleyes).

I mostly wash out every time but if not. Why bother with any other steps or mess - other than just dropping into the 5?


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

And dont get me started on proper brush maintenance! Heck no those things should never go into a bag!! (WOw)

My brush is my most important tool. 
And that always gets cleaned out. No matter what.


----------



## Steve Richards

To each his (or her) own.
I refuse to worry too much about any of my tools (except pump). If I use a brush/sleeve for a day or two and decide to toss it, no big deal. I probably spent more than that on gasoline anyhow.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

Oh. Ok.  dang, and im just sayin'... I def dont have it like that. Where I could just replace my $900 brush n roller invo every couple weeks

Good for you!
However, Im also particular to my best brushes broke in just lile I like em'.


----------



## Steve Richards

No, I don't have $900 worth of brushes and rollers.

Maybe $200..but only if I count the dusters.

I do have about $18 worth of tape too..but now I'm just braggin'.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

Eek! L..0..L.

Tape? Whats that for? Protecting carpet?


----------



## Steve Richards

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> Eek! L..0..L.
> 
> Tape? Whats that for? Protecting carpet?


I use it for lots of things...taping stir sticks together, putting up "wet paint signs", painter-bandaids, you name it.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

Nice save. Glad you didnt say it was for "crisp" lines. Rotf 

:thumbup:


----------



## TJ Paint

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> Nice save. Glad you didnt say it was for "crisp" lines. Rotf
> 
> :thumbup:


I use tape for lines many times. 

Guess what, autobody finishers do all the time and they have the nicest lines. 

I'm not pinstriping.

I know, I'll probably go to painters hell. Heck I even fornicate with my roller covers and wrap them in plastic overnight. Then I dump them once the job is done. I'm a user and a abuser. 

My brushes? I get a tad more attached but sooner or later you gotta let them go too. Sometimes I let an oldtimer be my token duster. It's good for my ego and appearances. All the churchgoers got nothing on me.


----------



## Steve Richards

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> Nice save. Glad you didnt say it was for "crisp" lines. Rotf
> 
> :thumbup:


not everyone can have the steady hands of a surgeon, Mandy.


----------



## TJ Paint

Steve Richards said:


> not everyone can have the steady hands of a surgeon, Mandy.


SteadyHands-Mandy!

Sounds like a fearsome outlaw!

Im jealous and have a crush. 

Time for confession.


----------



## Gough

TJ Paint said:


> I use tape for lines many times.
> 
> Guess what, autobody finishers do all the time and they have the nicest lines.
> 
> I'm not pinstriping.
> 
> I know, I'll probably go to painters hell. Heck I even fornicate with my roller covers and wrap them in plastic overnight. Then I dump them once the job is done. I'm a user and a abuser.
> 
> My brushes? I get a tad more attached but sooner or later you gotta let them go too. Sometimes I let an oldtimer be my token duster. It's good for my ego and appearances. All the churchgoers got nothing on me.


Pretty well sums up our approach, 'cept we use foil, not plastic.

For a lot of paint applicators, we took a hard look at the amount of time to clean them v. our standard labor rate. The math is easy, unless it's spraying or booth work. If it takes longer in minutes than the tool costs (in dollars), it's not worth it.

My prime example is the other contractors who give us grief about using Paint Pups as our work pots. They can't imagine paying $10 for a work pot. I ask them how long it takes them to clean out a pot. Typically, they say a few minutes. When I point out that the Paint Pup liners work out to about $0.40 each, they start to see the logic, unless they still think they're living large at $15/hr.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

Your jealousy can grow when I brag that I also have 20/16 vision. 

Bubble burst.

Good thing, Im married. Happily, to my best friend. And fellow painter.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi

Best painting tip- love what you do


----------



## ridesarize

Steve Richards said:


> Putting your company name on the outside of that bucket = free advertizing :thumbsup:
> 
> Finally..a way to hear yourself singing while scraping soffits!
> 
> "Mommy, why is that guy singing with his head in a bucket?"
> 
> 
> Sorry guys...I'll get over this eventually. Prolly not today though.


Need high vis gear still? , put a yellow rodda bucket over head


----------



## benthepainter

TJ Paint said:


> I use tape for lines many times.
> 
> Guess what, autobody finishers do all the time and they have the nicest lines.
> 
> I'm not pinstriping.
> 
> I know, I'll probably go to painters hell. Heck I even fornicate with my roller covers and wrap them in plastic overnight. Then I dump them once the job is done. I'm a user and a abuser.
> 
> My brushes? I get a tad more attached but sooner or later you gotta let them go too. Sometimes I let an oldtimer be my token duster. It's good for my ego and appearances. All the churchgoers got nothing on me.


Gday TJ

This Brush just spent 3 weeks on an exterior job most days just pushing 29 deg I love peeling of the tape ooh shiny lol those brushes for three weeks wrapped in plastic each day


----------



## Schmidt & Co.

So Ben. I've seen you post pictures before of your Envirowash before, and was just wondering what your supposed to do with all the waste water?


----------



## Paradigmzz

Schmidt & Co. said:


> So Ben. I've seen you post pictures before of your Envirowash before, and was just wondering what your supposed to do with all the waste water?


Just googled it. You add chems to the wash water and the solids drop to bottom and clean water is left on top. There is a spigot on can and you drain off the clean water and the solids ge t pumped out.


----------



## Steve Richards

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> And dont get me started on proper brush maintenance! Heck no those things should never go into a bag!! (WOw)
> 
> My brush is my most important tool.
> And that always gets cleaned out. No matter what.





benthepainter said:


>


Mandi is gonna kick your a$$ Ben!


----------



## Schmidt & Co.

Paradigmzz said:


> Just googled it. You add chems to the wash water and the solids drop to bottom and clean water is left on top. There is a spigot on can and you drain off the clean water and the solids ge t pumped out.


Thanks. I kinda pictured Ben taking it to the woods and tipping that puppy over.


----------



## Bender

benthepainter said:


> Gday TJ
> 
> This Brush just spent 3 weeks on an exterior job most days just pushing 29 deg I love peeling of the tape ooh shiny lol those brushes for three weeks wrapped in plastic each day


Exterior?
What are those, Union brushes:blink:


----------



## benthepainter

Schmidt & Co. said:


> So Ben. I've seen you post pictures before of your Envirowash before, and was just wondering what your supposed to do with all the waste water?


Gday Schmidt 

Ive had the enviro wash for a while now but only now i have really been using it as i now have a second trailer for my scaffold and forcarrying gear 
So now its easy to take the enviro wash to my work

Its So much more comfortable washing out at my little sink lol before i finish the job i will put the chemicals in Then pump out treated water on the garden 

I guess i could be a real painting nerd and fill up 
5 x 20ltr buckets with lids then reuse the treated water again to wash up ? 

If i had room at home i would just set it up at home


----------



## Damon T

I guess you can't just dump the water down the toilet like we do in the states?


----------



## benthepainter

Damon T said:


> I guess you can't just dump the water down the toilet like we do in the states?


I dont think i have ever put dirty paint water down the toilet lol plenty of sinks though


----------



## Brian C

My enviro-washer is white, how come yours is blue ? 

I think its a great system and as you say when the chemicals work separating the paint and water, I pump out onto my grass. The slurry left over I pump into an old paint can and leave it in the sun to dry. I have purchase some crystals which turn paint into solid matter for disposal.


----------



## benthepainter

Brian C said:


> My enviro-washer is white, how come yours is blue ?
> 
> I think its a great system and as you say when the chemicals work separating the paint and water, I pump out onto my grass. The slurry left over I pump into an old paint can and leave it in the sun to dry. I have purchase some crystals which turn paint into solid matter for disposal.


G'day Brian

I've only just been able to take it to work : ) funny clients are like wow you bring your own sink : p

Mine is Blue from a thing called Rugby League : ) it was some state of origin promo so being NSW I went the Blue : ) I wasn't going to get some crappy Maroon QLD one : p


----------



## benthepainter

Yes I know you are going to say AFL is real Footy : ) At least both codes don't wear pads like the Girly American Football


----------



## Brian C

I find it too cumbersome to take to Work Ben. We wrap our brushes in plastic and I wash them in my backyard where the machine is set up.


----------



## benthepainter

Brian C said:


> I find it too cumbersome to take to Work Ben. We wrap our brushes in plastic and I wash them in my backyard where the machine is set up.


I thought i would give it ago as with my new trailer i can carry extra gear 

I also wrap my brushes in plastic that works well for me 

But I might see if i can find some room in the backyard for the envirowash


----------



## DirtyPainter

So how many brush/roller washes can ya get outta those things before they're full?


----------



## Brian C

mine holds 160 litres of water. You wash the brushes and rollers with a garden hose into the unit and the waste water is collected in the bin. You add a chemical to the dirty water and it separates the paint and water. Pump the clean water out with the electric pump onto the garden and you are left with a few gallons of sludge in the bottom.


----------



## ptbopainter

That would be the greatest thing to have on a job with no running water, or an exterior with no access inside!
Beats driving around with paint water sloshing in a bucket.
Especially when it's hot and you're having to wash the brush every hour.
:thumbup:


----------



## Brian C

most homeowners these-days frown upon you washing up in their garden, so this is the answer.


----------



## Ole34

When sanding trim only sand what you can reach with your hands while standing ... Unless your customer is short. in that case, bend slightly at the knees while sanding ...


----------



## chrisn

Stay in school and get a real job


----------



## D. Hunt

Kitty litter works well for cleaning spills or turning waste paint to a disposable solid, and you can pick it up pretty cheap compared to some of the other products. 
Thanks everybody for all the tips


----------



## Workaholic

Brian C said:


> most homeowners these-days frown upon you washing up in their garden, so this is the answer.


Water conservation and recycling is much more normal there then here. Here only a small portion of a city collects the rainwater and from the tv I have seen on Sydney it is pretty common.


----------



## Damon T

benthepainter said:


> I dont think i have ever put dirty paint water down the toilet lol plenty of sinks though


It's easier to dump a 5 of water down a toilet. At least in this hemisphere. I hear the toilets swirl the other direction down there, so maybe the sink is better. ;-)


----------



## Brian C

Workaholic said:


> Water conservation and recycling is much more normal there then here. Here only a small portion of a city collects the rainwater and from the tv I have seen on Sydney it is pretty common.


yes we live in a very dry continent down here. Most of us have rainwater tanks for the garden.


----------



## Heatho

Run a small bead of caulk on your tape line for straight lines that can't be matched free handed. Got this idea from here.


----------



## Mrlaroo

I like to use eye hooks on my brushes so they can hang on the top of the bucket rather then in the paint. Great tips all, thanks.


----------



## RH

I've posted this before but it was quite awhile back…

If you use a brush comb, get a plastic knife guard from a kitchen supply store (BB&B) and put it over the teeth when not using. If you've ever stabbed yourself with one of these combs you'll appreciate having one of these guards in place.


----------



## slinger58

Mrlaroo said:


> I like to use eye hooks on my brushes so they can hang on the top of the bucket rather then in the paint. Great tips all, thanks.


Why would you not want them to be in the paint?:blink:


----------



## Oden

RH said:


> I've posted this before but it was quite awhile back&#133; If you use a brush comb, get a plastic knife guard from a kitchen supply store (BB&B) and put it over the teeth when not using. If you've ever stabbed yourself with one of these combs you'll appreciate having one of these guards in place.


I like the wire brush for that.


----------



## Mrlaroo

slinger58 said:


> Why would you not want them to be in the paint?:blink:


So the brush stays clean by not dipping too low in the paint when not in use, say when using you mini.


----------



## mudbone

Mrlaroo said:


> I like to use eye hooks on my brushes so they can hang on the top of the bucket rather then in the paint. Great tips all, thanks.


Oh eye see!


----------



## vilmost

1. The yellow pouring lips from HD. Keep cans looking untouched, customers are impressed.
2. Use the HVLP to spray tan wife. Also to coat bakery with chocolate. Or wife.
On a side note, if I can use hair conditioner as floetrol, can I use floetrol to wash my hair?


----------



## daArch

vilmost said:


> 1. The yellow pouring lips from HD. Keep cans looking untouched, customers are impressed.
> 2. Use the HVLP to spray tan wife. Also to coat bakery with chocolate. Or wife.
> On a side note, if I can use hair conditioner as floetrol, can I use floetrol to wash my hair?


That may need to on the wall of notable 1st posts.


----------



## chrisn

daArch said:


> That may need to on the wall of notable 1st posts.


or in the trash

along with that yellow thing:yes:


----------



## trainbeat

If you work around carpenters grab some fine sawdust and store it in a coffee container. Excellent for cleaning up small spills.

For fine trim caulking cut the tube as close to the tip as possible at a 45ish , just to the point where the hole will appear. Use a sanding sponge and smooth down the edges of the tip a little bit. Ever notice how much smoother you can caulk hen the tip is broken in? 

If you are soaking brushes fill a five gal halfway and hang the brushes from a wire or long kebab stick resting in the rim of the bucket. It keeps the ferrule from getting flooded and leaking while painting and doesn't distort the shape.

When storing joint compound leave a thin layer of water over the top to prevent drying out. 

A wet sanding sponge is the best tool for cleaning mud pans and knives when the mud has dried. (Although I'm sure non of you ever let that happen)

After cleaning your brushes, use the Bob Ross method





Edit:
Also, and I'm sure most of you are aware of this but it amazes me how many painters I've met who've never heard of this:
(assuming you're using an angled brush) When you get to the end of your cut, don't reload, flip the brush around and continue cutting in angle tip first. There's a lot of paint still in the brush that has been pushed to that side, and you can actually get a very fine cut line with this method. When I cut in window and door trim I cut in angle tip first almost exclusively.


----------



## Masters Tile & Paint

chrisn said:


> or in the trash
> 
> along with that yellow thing:yes:



I threw the yellow thing away after I used it once. Wasn't even worth the buck I payed for it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## daArch

Masters Tile & Paint said:


> I threw the yellow thing away after I used it once. Wasn't even worth the buck I payed for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


although I am not surprised at your evaluation, I am surprised a pro bought one.


----------



## Jmayspaint

daArch said:



> although I am not surprised at your evaluation, I am surprised a pro bought one.


The real trick is to keep the can clean without one


----------



## SemiproJohn

Jmayspaint said:


> The real trick is to keep the can clean without one


Let me guess how one might do this. First, carefully open the lid on a new gallon. Using a slotted screwdriver, knock a couple of drain holes in the rim...and, when pouring paint from the gallon can into a cut bucket, make sure the gallon is turned so that paint pours out above the rear instructions/specs label, not above the front label of the can.

I'm lazy and never make the puncture holes...I just carefully brush out the excess paint from the rim after pouring. 

As if I had nothing more important to do with my time....:jester:

Actually, I always leave what's leftover in the gallon to the customer, and I think it's nice to have that gallon look as untouched as possible. And it's easy when boxing paint gallons. Just be careful pouring. :yes:


----------



## daArch

SemiproJohn said:


> Let me guess how one might do this. First, carefully open the lid on a new gallon. Using a slotted screwdriver, knock a couple of drain holes in the rim...and, when pouring paint from the gallon can into a cut bucket, make sure the gallon is turned so that paint pours out above the rear instructions/specs label, not above the front label of the can.
> 
> I'm lazy and never make the puncture holes...I just carefully brush out the excess paint from the rim after pouring.
> 
> As if I had nothing more important to do with my time....:jester:
> 
> Actually, I always leave what's leftover in the gallon to the customer, and I think it's nice to have that gallon look as untouched as possible. And it's easy when boxing paint gallons. Just be careful pouring. :yes:


We used to do that, but soon realized it destroyed the air sealing capabilities of the can so that it skimmed over quickly and also dried out sooner than it oughta (back in the days when paint skimmed over).

We then practiced the age old "painter's courtesy" , which, for those who never heard the term, was wiping the rim and edge with a brush - usually another painter who was on the team did this before much dribbled down the side - thus the name, "painter's courtesy".

And if you always poured down out from the "back sided" of the can, the type of paint could always be identified. When in a home and I see paint cans in storage, I can always tell if a pro or a HO had used them. 

See if you can


----------



## Masters Tile & Paint

I typically just wipe the rim with the brush. If I'm leaving the paint with the homeowner I'll use my microfiber rag and with a slight fold jam it down in the rim and slide. It will look brand new. I don't do it often. But easy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## paintpro6809

Try this ut. It works like it says it does! http://youtu.be/o4zV9tzPl1s


----------



## SemiproJohn

paintpro6809 said:


> Try this ut. It works like it says it does! http://youtu.be/o4zV9tzPl1s


I am going to have to try this out. I wonder about tip size...


----------



## Jmayspaint

SemiproJohn said:


> I am going to have to try this out. I wonder about tip size...



Yeah, that thing looks cool. Looks like their
using a 2x, maybe a 3.


----------



## MSJ Painting

paintpro6809 said:


> Try this ut. It works like it says it does! http://youtu.be/o4zV9tzPl1s


That looks awesome

Sent from my SM-G900V using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## slinger58

Ok, I'll be the first to say it.

BullChit!!!

Think it through.


----------



## paintpro6809

There are specific tip sizes you have to use. No fine finish. The more the paint atomizes, the less effective it is. Good for all the standard tips you likely use most often. I understand from others that it has to be at least a decent quality paint, because cheap paints are so thin and, again, atomize more because of the high water content. There is a slight learning curve, as with anything else, but it's short. Once you have it, you'll be amazed at what you save in production time.


----------



## RH

I'm open to feedback about things like this but I'm skeptical about any tool that promises faster _and_ better. Just seen too many things that make big claims but never live up to them.

Nothing to do with painting, but the best things I have ever purchased along this line are pivoting handle adapters for my wheelbarrow and a telescopic/folding yard rake. Both not only work as promised but are actually better than advertised.


----------



## driftweed

Well my first red flag about that tool is I can't buy it. Just tried to check prices on it at their own website. You have to contact a regional guy, which is only going to mean SPAM and inconsistent pricing.

On that note, I call the tool a failure.


----------



## MSJ Painting

driftweed said:


> Well my first red flag about that tool is I can't buy it. Just tried to check prices on it at their own website. You have to contact a regional guy, which is only going to mean SPAM and inconsistent pricing.
> 
> On that note, I call the tool a failure.


I did a little research and found it for a hundred bucks on a site...let me see if I can find the link.

Sent from my SM-G900V using PaintTalk.com mobile app


----------



## MSJ Painting

MSJ Painting said:


> I did a little research and found it for a hundred bucks on a site...let me see if I can find the link.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using PaintTalk.com mobile app


http://www.centurapaint.webpage66.com/catalog/item/8535526/9394389.htm

Sent from my SM-G900V using PaintTalk.com mobile app


----------



## paintpro6809

Just e-mail the inventor and he"ll hook you up. Yes, it's $100. [email protected] I only promote this to you guys because it works and it pays for itself in a heartbeat. I'm just looking to help.


----------



## JPiacentino

PVPainter said:


> 1)The best tip I ever learned about patching in particular was; just when it looks almost like you want it to, stop. Chances are you will pick something up on the blade and drag it through, creating a never ending cycle of frustration, so just stop, and sand later.
> 
> 2) don't ever use super spec interior
> 
> 3) A few times a year buy a gallon of xylene to soak disregarded roller arms brushes ect., cleans them right up
> 
> 4) Take a decent size drop and lay it over bushes that are close to the house and then use a come-a-long (ladder ratchet) to pull it to a near by tree, or just make it smaller. Thus covering it, and getting it out of your way in one shot.
> 
> 5) Never lay plastic over a nice garden on a hot day without poking lots of holes in it.
> 
> 6) Don't waste your time cleaning up the handle of your brush, it's a paint brush for christ's sake.
> 
> 7) Always try to make the yard, or the inside of the house your working in, look better than it did when you got there during clean up. Customers are so blown away to see you whip out cleaning agents and have everything **** and span before your on your way out the door. So much so that sometimes they care more about that, then the painting you just did
> 
> 8) Use the Dust Controll joint compound, it is an amazing difference.


I like to joke and tell HO's that cleaning is incidental and free of charge. Free cleaning is always a crowd pleaser. Plus a super clean environment really showcases your hard work.


----------



## driftweed

paintpro6809 said:


> Just e-mail the inventor and he"ll hook you up. Yes, it's $100. [email protected] I only promote this to you guys because it works and it pays for itself in a heartbeat. I'm just looking to help.


I'll pick one up next month then. Still recovering from 2 stolen sprayers. I do alot of production work, and will have to review it.


----------



## Paradigmzz

paintpro6809 said:


> Just e-mail the inventor and he"ll hook you up. Yes, it's $100. [email protected] I only promote this to you guys because it works and it pays for itself in a heartbeat. I'm just looking to help.


What about paint build on the wheel?


----------



## paintpro6809

You set it up so the wheel just gets a mist. At the end of your run you can wipe it if need be, but if you're done it comes right off and you can drop it in water until you need it again. Just pop it off and keep spraying with the tip you already have on there. I'm telling you, after a small learning curve (notice the video says to do a dry run so you get the feel of the surface before spraying) you'll be thrilled with the increase in production and decrease in cut-in time. Cut in the entire side of a one story house in minutes.


----------



## paintpro6809

If you do production work, just remember it is less effective with lower grade paints that atomize at a higher rate than better quality paints.


----------



## driftweed

Will it work with promar 200 then? That's 90% of what I spray.


----------



## Artsupplies31

Hi Prowallguy,

Thanks for sharing these useful tips. I think these are very helpful for everyone.
http://www.painttalk.com/members/prowallguy-3/


----------



## paintpro6809

It should be fine with PM200 or 400. When you get down to 700, Optimus, etc I'd do a test area first.


----------



## Heatho

I've got an old over-sized pizza cutter we don't use anymore. I think I might DIY one of these.


Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


----------



## Toolnut

trainbeat said:


> If you work around carpenters grab some fine sawdust and store it in a coffee container. Excellent for cleaning up small spills.
> 
> For fine trim caulking cut the tube as close to the tip as possible at a 45ish , just to the point where the hole will appear. Use a sanding sponge and smooth down the edges of the tip a little bit. Ever notice how much smoother you can caulk hen the tip is broken in?
> 
> If you are soaking brushes fill a five gal halfway and hang the brushes from a wire or long kebab stick resting in the rim of the bucket. It keeps the ferrule from getting flooded and leaking while painting and doesn't distort the shape.
> 
> When storing joint compound leave a thin layer of water over the top to prevent drying out.
> 
> A wet sanding sponge is the best tool for cleaning mud pans and knives when the mud has dried. (Although I'm sure non of you ever let that happen)
> 
> After cleaning your brushes, use the Bob Ross method
> Bob Ross - Joy of Washing the Brush - YouTube
> 
> Edit:
> Also, and I'm sure most of you are aware of this but it amazes me how many painters I've met who've never heard of this:
> (assuming you're using an angled brush) When you get to the end of your cut, don't reload, flip the brush around and continue cutting in angle tip first. There's a lot of paint still in the brush that has been pushed to that side, and you can actually get a very fine cut line with this method. When I cut in window and door trim I cut in angle tip first almost exclusively.


if you add capful of bleach to the water the bacteria can't grow so it won't sour or grow mold.


----------



## Paint Pro CA

Tape the tops of the baseboards after they are caulked and painted before you do the walls. Roll the walls right down onto the tape. Leaves about a half inch gap between the baseboard and the wall colour. Cut in by simply walking along and running your brush along the top of the tape. Second cut by doing the same and then roll down to the tape and then peel the tape. No need to crawl on the ground twice to cut the wall colour along the baseboards. You get a laser straight line too. It amazes me how many painters still cut in baseboards with no tape or even worse clean up their freehand baseboard cuts with a bead of caulking 

WD-40 cleans oil paint off your skin like a champ. I also use it on my cages to prevent squeaks. 

Plastic wrap over the tops of paint cans before you put the lid on. Especially when storing paint for use on another job, leaving for the weekend or leaving paint for the homeowner and always use a marker and label the paint cans for the customer. And seeing as Im in Canada I always tell the customer to never store paint in an unheated garage. Get some freezing temperatures and the stuff is ruined. 

Never pour paint out of a fiver through the hole. Always remove the lid to pour paint and then always wipe the rim with a rag so that you won't get dried bits in the paint the next time you pour. Really basic stuff but some guys still don't do it.


----------



## finaltouch0

MSJ Painting said:


> http://www.centurapaint.webpage66.com/catalog/item/8535526/9394389.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Ordered one from here friday. Received it yesterday. I figured I have wasted 100$ on dumber things, why not try it?

Put it to the test today with some woods capes against metal soffits, then some super paint on block walls. After VERY LITTLE learning curve, this tool is AWESOME! 

I have a feeling we may get another one or two for the guys to use. This is gonna save a TON of time!

What little buildup gets on the wheel is nothing. Easy to wipe off if need be, but dries up between needing to use it anyway. Easy on, easy off to keep spraying.


----------



## nitridex

Im not sure if this was mentioned before but one if the things ive done recently that has been saving me a lot of time has been 2 small tool pouches i wear at my sides, no more going back and forth to my bag for simple tools.


----------



## Boco

nitridex said:


> Im not sure if this was mentioned before but one if the things ive done recently that has been saving me a lot of time has been 2 small tool pouches i wear at my sides, no more going back and forth to my bag for simple tools.


 I always like the apron for inside prep work and the tool belt for exterior prep. Going up a ladder I only plan on going up there once. Bending over for tools on the floor makes for a long day.


----------



## journeymanPainter

ProWallGuy said:


> All right, lets hear about all those little things you do to make a job go faster/easier. If this thread runs long (which I hope), I'll make it a sticky.
> 
> Here a few to start.
> 
> Spray some WD40 on a rag, and wipe down the end caps and metal arms of your rollers before dipping it in paint. After the job, the paint will clean off easily. Literally wipe off. Keeps roller frames brand new looking. Also spray the inside cage.
> 
> When finished with a 5, use a screwdriver to pry out the rubber seal around the inside of the lid. This works great to hold a piece of plastic over your current paint 5 over night (or during lunch, or over a weekend) while on a job. You can throw a wet rag over the 5, then cut a piece of plastic to cover the whole top, and the rubber seal works like the perfect sized rubber band. Keeps paint fresh for a couple days like this.
> 
> Next!


Put paint on the walls...not the carpet

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


----------



## Jmayspaint

nitridex said:


> Im not sure if this was mentioned before but one if the things ive done recently that has been saving me a lot of time has been 2 small tool pouches i wear at my sides, no more going back and forth to my bag for simple tools.



Painters whites, rather conveniently, have two small tool pouches sewn into the legs:whistling2:


----------



## DirtyPainter

Jmayspaint said:


> Painters whites, rather conveniently, have two small tool pouches sewn into the legs:whistling2:



Convenient, yes. However... While keeping stuff in those pockets, walking or kneeling becomes rather uncomfortable. Depending on your size, proportions/how your pants fit. I still always end up with the 5 n1 in my back pocket and couldn't tell you how many pockets I've blown out thanks to that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PaintersUnite

If you should happen to make it out of the painting business, *"The Brush will Always Haunt You".*


----------



## Boco

Jmayspaint said:


> Painters whites, rather conveniently, have two small tool pouches sewn into the legs:whistling2:


 Ya like you can carry a hammer, nails, carbide scraper, screwgun, tape, masking machine, orbital sander Etc.... And unless your paying 0% of getting laid and having chicks to dig you. :jester:


----------



## capn26

Fine sawdust from a sander mixed with wood glue makes a great nail filler in stain projects and if the wood was from what you were staining it usually matches better than anything else out there. Just use a good carpenters glue and as little of it as possible. Make it pasty. 

That's all I've got. You guys are light years ahead of me. I can't thank you enough.


----------



## Toolnut

Might have been mentioned but a slat from a vertical blind makes a 6' paint shield when painting baseboard over carpet. Just slip the edge under the base.


----------



## RH

When doing ceilings and having to deal with flush mounted fixtures we typically like to loosen and let the fixtures hang down so we can paint under them. The problem is that it can be a real PITA to try and get the fixtures remounted. Getting the mounting screws to line up properly with the holes in the base of the fixture while dealing with the pad of insulation can result in a frustrating experience made all the more pleasant by the gentle drift of fiberglass getting in your eyes, nose, and mouth.

To make it much easier, I keep a few 6" lengths of #22 gauge piano wire in my tool box. I wrap one end of each wire around each screw head that's mounted in the junction box and then thread the other end of each wire through the holes in the base of the fixture. I can then use the extruding lengths of wire to direct the base to line up with the screw heads instead of attempting to line them up by chance. Not a big idea but it does save quite a bit of time and frustration.


----------



## ridesarize

I love this paint tray for different jobs. I don't really cut and roll out of it, but use it when backrolling exteriors (soffits lately), and holding tools when on ladders. Thought it might be cheesy but after a few years it has really come through for me.
It holds well yet comes unattached at will when getting down to move ladder. When handle is upright it locks in position to carry, or folds to side.


----------



## stelzerpaintinginc.

RH said:


> When doing ceilings and having to deal with flush mounted fixtures we typically like to loosen and let the fixtures hang down so we can paint under them. The problem is that it can be a real PITA to try and get the fixtures remounted. Getting the mounting screws to line up properly with the holes in the base of the fixture while dealing with the pad of insulation can result in a frustrating experience made all the more pleasant by the gentle drift of fiberglass getting in your eyes, nose, and mouth.
> 
> To make it much easier, I keep a few 6" lengths of #22 gauge piano wire in my tool box. I wrap one end of each wire around each screw head that's mounted in the junction box and then thread the other end of each wire through the holes in the base of the fixture. I can then use the extruding lengths of wire to direct the base to line up with the screw heads instead of attempting to line them up by chance. Not a big idea but it does save quite a bit of time and frustration.



Good tip. I also like slightly unscrewing almost anything flush-mounted, such as cable & phone plates on interiors, doorbells on exteriors, etc. Whether I'm masking or just painting around em, (except for apartments).


Stelzer Painting Inc.


----------



## I paint paint

paintpro6809 said:


> Try this ut. It works like it says it does! http://youtu.be/o4zV9tzPl1s





driftweed said:


> I'll pick one up next month then. Still recovering from 2 stolen sprayers. I do alot of production work, and will have to review it.


Driftweed, did you end up buying one?


----------



## I paint paint

ridesarize said:


> I love this paint tray for different jobs. I don't really cut and roll out of it, but use it when backrolling exteriors (soffits lately), and holding tools when on ladders. Thought it might be cheesy but after a few years it has really come through for me.
> It holds well yet comes unattached at will when getting down to move ladder. When handle is upright it locks in position to carry, or folds to side.


I've never seen a tray like that. Where'd you buy it, or who's the manufacturer?


----------



## RH

When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and the cut off corner provides an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.


----------



## PRC

RH said:


> When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and leaves an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.


Along the same line.....wrap the stinger in plastic from top to 2 inches from bottom. Then completely wrap the plastic in tape tightly, sealing the top and bottom edges so the plastc is fully covered and sealed. When it's time to clean up run a razor blade from top to bottom cutting tape and plastic. The stinger will be completely clean except the bottom inch.


----------



## 007 Dave

Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.

I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.

Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.

When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.

I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver. 

I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.


----------



## chrisn

007 Dave said:


> Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.
> 
> I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.
> 
> Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.
> 
> When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.
> 
> I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver.
> 
> I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.


What happened to the lid?


----------



## lilpaintchic

007 Dave said:


> Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.
> 
> I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.
> 
> Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.
> 
> When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.
> 
> I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver.
> 
> I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.


Try cutting a STRAIGHT line between a textured surface or block/brick etc and smooth trim/window, or a transition between 2 colors on a textured surface. etc. ....now do it with caulk. You'll experience the difference for yourself.


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## Joe67

What a great thread. I'm sorry I missed it for all of this time (as it was started a very long time ago!) But I'm glad to see that I do a lot of those things mentioned here. I guess it makes me feel "legit." And then there are about 100 things where I'm thinking DOH! - of course! Why am I not doing that? So thanks to all who have contributed.

On the subject of tape...and caulk...I need further education from those who do it.

I was "raised" on a steady diet of "are you kidding me?" about using tape. I spent years as an underling/apprentice on many paint crews and never saw a roll of tape. (And this was not slop work - it was great, high-quality work). I have never used it myself - at least for making lines. It gets in the way so that I can't see my line and it doesn't really make lines. Its fine for band-aids or the occasional coverage of something hard to clean near a cut line or helping hold down some plastic someplace... But for lines?

But I know that those of you who use it successfully are not idiots. I get the idea of running the tape and then the bead of caulk. But as I imagine it, all I can see is the entire thing peeling back off of the wall or whatever when I pull the tape. Are you telling me that the caulk just neatly separates with the tape? No pull off or uneven tearing? I'm skeptical which I figure means that I don't quite get how to do it the right way. I can't say I'd use it much as a method - I enjoy the "craft" of cutting lines - but it would certainly come in handy at times.

As for "tips" at the moment, one that I don't recall seeing in the thread is that Krud Kutter works very well for cleaning up old, dried latex. It's not something you want to drink or get in your eyes, but its relatively benign stuff that is water based, biodegrades and doesn't stink up a place like a lot of solvents do. Soak whatever you want overnight and old latex will turn to jelly. It's not one-time use either. I have a 5 in the garage with a fairly strong mix in it. Its all cloudy after the first use, but will continue to clean even then. I just drop stuff in as needed. And FWIW, I recently de-greased a car's cylinder head with it. Crazy stuff for a water-based, biodegradable product.


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## 007 Dave

lilpaintchic said:


> Try cutting a STRAIGHT line between a textured surface or block/brick etc and smooth trim/window, or a transition between 2 colors on a textured surface. etc. ....now do it with caulk. You'll experience the difference for yourself.


Ok I understand now about the texture walls. Thank you.:thumbsup:


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## AngieM

@Joe67 I too try to perfect my cut in lines but nothing will compare to the razor sharp line of a well placed tape/caulk line. Especially on bull nose ceilings and corners. The trick is to only smear a small amount of caulk (or paint of that color) on the tape edge. Just enough to seal it. I've never had paint pull up with it when removed. 

As for Krud Kutter...YES! I recently made this discovery too. It's been a fantastic surface prep for trim and doors to be painted. Be sure to rinse it though.


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## 007 Dave

chrisn said:


> What happened to the lid?


That's a fair question. I roll out of 5's. So if you do job that might take 4 gallons or less you won't have a lid. (Yes I have lids in my truck), but you still have to wrap you roller. or if you use a lid and pull the little lid hole out and the roller handle sticks out you still have a small gap. on a hot day it may skim over a little. I know you can always put a wet rag over that gap. A shower cap is just faster. Does this make sense?

I also use a shower cap to put over exterior porch lights and lights attached to the house.


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## Joe67

AngieM said:


> @*Joe67* I too try to perfect my cut in lines but nothing will compare to the razor sharp line of a well placed tape/caulk line. Especially on bull nose ceilings and corners. The trick is to only smear a small amount of caulk (or paint of that color) on the tape edge. Just enough to seal it. I've never had paint pull up with it when removed.
> 
> As for Krud Kutter...YES! I recently made this discovery too. It's been a fantastic surface prep for trim and doors to be painted. Be sure to rinse it though.


I will give the tape/caulk a whirl at some point.

As for rinsing Krud Kutter - yes! What I always found weird was that it says on the bottle that it leaves no residue. Yet, it so obviously seems too. It leaves some kind of slime that does not come off easily. So yes - rinse liberally.


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## RH

Krud Kutter, regular or deglossing version, is pretty much the only cleaner I use for interior work these days.


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## chrisn

RH said:


> Krud Kutter, regular or deglossing version, is pretty much the only cleaner I use for interior work these days.


I don't use the de glosser but the regular , I have for years now. Always have a gallon in the garage


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## 804 Paint

RH said:


> When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and the cut off corner provides an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.




When doing just a few, why not just brush them??


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## RH

804 Paint said:


> When doing just a few, why not just brush them??


Depends on the doors. If older and previously painted, or, they are the embossed fiberglass doors, then a microfiber roller and a brush are likely fine. But if they have been previously sprayed, are being painted for the first time, or are smooth paneled metal, fiberglass, or MDF, then they will get sprayed.


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## Painting Practice

Caulk/tape debate: I will use tape ran around 1/16'' inch from top rear edge of base and/or casing and clear latex caulk in the gap. While still wet paint my latex walls. Pull the tape wet carefully and the two products dry simultaneously I've found without problems. If I am delicate with the brush and the gap isn't two large or wavering, this method has provided near perfect results. A dry method of this I use it bringing the caulk edge to zero right where it meets the tape, let it dry and the caulk rarely comes with the tape. 

Yet to go through the whole thread to see if its been said but on remodels or some more forgiving jobs (using latex) I will just sheet my pot with plastic and a ring of tape, making sure to circle the brush handle at least once before sticking it to the pot magnet, then put it all the the fridge on a paper towel. Hasn't given me any trouble yet and the cold air keeps it fresh. In the morning I give it a few minutes to warm up (sip coffee) and get right into it.

In the equipment category, it takes an extremely hot day for me to not wear my http://www.armedworkwear.com/products/product/white-work-pants.php


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## lilpaintchic

Probably a well known tip....but heating your bomb cans (texture, primer, whatever) under running hot water or leave em sitting on or in a heat vent for a while will give you a much nicer (finer) spray pattern.....especially when the outdoor temps drop.

And I wet the edges of my pot or bucket and just stick the plastic to it as close to the surface of the paint as possible. This eliminates as much air as possible from my product. Air dries paint and contaminates the pot. Sometimes I just lay it straight to the surface of the paint. It can't dry if there's no air. No need to tape it either. If it's stuck to the wet paint on the sides it has the same effect as having it taped.i dunno....little things that I do that work for me.


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## DJohnston

One thing that I have found important is keeping mineral spirits in our airless sprayers if they plan to sit for more than seven days this keeps the inside of rig from rusting out and keeps maintenance cost down.


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## ridesarize

So I was wanting to revive the thread called Tips, Tricks, and Tools. http://www.painttalk.com/f2/tips-tricks-tools-19249/
Because it's pretty hilarious, and ingenius, and classic Paint Talk. Look it up. 

I love the wire brush holder RH!!

But it seems the thread is too old to reply now. So I'll add in my little MacGyver brush here I made to brush prime the grooves on 230 cedar t&g boards. The fronts and back primer had dried already. 
It was 4-5 times more effective than a 2.5-3" sash and it's disposable, or keepable. Used an electric stapler to join 3- 3" chip brushes, which worked killer. Just slide back and forth and done. I think it could be good on t-111 grooves, maybe even flat wide stuff who knows.


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## lilpaintchic

Brilliant! Did you use stir sticks there or??


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## ridesarize

lilpaintchic said:


> Brilliant! Did you use stir sticks there or??


I was thinking of using stir sticks but I think I used scrap strips of wood I had a surplus of.


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