# Fastest repaint over damaged wallpaper / Rental



## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

I have a bid coming up that is all wallpaper w/ some over plaster walls.
Most of the seams have issues. i am looking for a brand of adhesive that dries fast and is gunnable..is that a word? Comes in a tube for gun..
I would then prime all of the paper with Zinnser oil stain block.
Is this a good choice of primer? I have used it over paper before and didn't have any issues.. Also how about it's adhesion to non prepped surfaces?
Did I mention its a rental?? lol
Thanks for any info
Rand Rohe


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

randrohe said:


> I have a bid coming up that is all wallpaper w/ some over plaster walls.
> Most of the seams have issues. i am looking for a brand of adhesive that dries fast and is gunnable..is that a word? Comes in a tube for gun..
> I would then prime all of the paper with Zinnser oil stain block.
> Is this a good choice of primer? I have used it over paper before and didn't have any issues.. Also how about it's adhesion to non prepped surfaces?
> ...


Just a friendly heads up. When Bill sees this he's gonna have a conniption. He hates anyone painting over paper - and for good reason.


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

I have the option of ripping off what I can but some of the walls are plaster and there some issues hidden behind this 140 yr plus house. Small town flip over to rent for the gas industry employees..Or as they are commonly referred to in these parts "Gasholes".


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah I hear ya. Rentals that the owners don't want to put any money into doing right - just cheap. But Bill's put out some good tips on removing paper with minimal damage to walls. It can still be tricky though. Do a search on wall paper removal here and see what you can find. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Paper on plaster is the easiest to remove, but I am working for a slum lord this week and he would have me doing the same thing( paint over the whole mess)


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

If you really want to hack it up, try contact cement, a heat gun and a seam roller. There's nothing in caulk tube form that will give you the fast bond that you are looking for. 

Of course this is what the guy on the corner told me. I'd_ never_ do that myself. :whistling2:


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

I never had much luck trying to paste back seams that have come away and curled. They are usually dried out and crispy or happy in that curled position and short of putting some staples in there(tough on plaster walls) they just won't adhere back to the wall. If the seams were tight I would say just go for it, but when the seams are in bad shape it might be easier to just take it off. The other way is to shave back the seams until sound and spackle them out, but that usually takes as much time as removing the damn paper. Also, a lot depends on the type of paper you are dealing with...lots of variables.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Liquid nail for the seams. 

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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

randrohe said:


> I have the option of ripping off what I can but some of the walls are plaster and there some issues hidden behind this 140 yr plus house. Small town flip over to rent for the gas industry employees..Or as they are commonly referred to in these parts "Gasholes".


On the job you're describing I'd cut off the curled paper only and prime and paint. I just don't think the gasholes are going to be concerned with their less than perfectly prepped walls a little bit. Therefore neither will the landlord be concerned and neither should you be concerned.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

randrohe said:


> I have a bid coming up that is all wallpaper w/ some over plaster walls.
> Most of the seams have issues. i am looking for a brand of adhesive that dries fast and is gunnable..is that a word? Comes in a tube for gun..
> I would then prime all of the paper with Zinnser oil stain block.
> Is this a good choice of primer? I have used it over paper before and didn't have any issues.. Also how about it's adhesion to non prepped surfaces?
> ...


Maybe you could prime the wallpaper with oil-based coverstain and then cut/repair the seams with a 20 min hot mud.then spot prime and finish coat.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Xmark said:


> Maybe you could prime the wallpaper with oil-based coverstain and then cut/repair the seams with a 20 min hot mud.then spot prime and finish coat.


Way too much work for an apartment.

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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

thanks for all of the excellent tips. I believe it will come down to tear off as practical. Cut out seam curls w a window razor and spackle. And the contact cement heat gun idea may show up too! That sucks someone doesn't make a gunnable solution. I have considered acrylic caulk but I would have to baby sit too long for it to bond.. should be an adventure..


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

randrohe said:


> That sucks someone doesn't make a gunnable solution. I have considered acrylic caulk but I would have to baby sit too long for it to bond.. should be an adventure..


They do, liquid nail.

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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

TJ Paint i like the way you think. That was actually the only product that I could think of but kind of dismissed it early on...Any squeeze out could be dealt w/ thinner immediately...
This is going to be my primary solution I am thinking.
Thanks for reinforcing that idea....
Rand Rohe
Brothers' Painting


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

They got this stuff called locktite power grab. it comes in a caulking tube and it's right in the same section as the liquid nails/caulk and stuff at the depot. It's a glue, it grabs like instantly, it takes paint. A carpenter turned me on to it and It took the place of liquid nails as my go to 'butcher quick fix' because of the quick grab. Good stuff.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

randrohe said:


> TJ Paint i like the way you think.


Thanks. That's how most feel on here I gather, unless they can't stand me, which seems to happen more than infrequently...

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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

What I have done to paint over paper in the past is cut all loose seems away with a razor,caulk over ceiling seam if its tight. Skim all cut away seams with 20 min. mud. Put a good coat of Coverstain. Then either texture or just one more pass with the mud to insure no imperfections . Then spray and back roll the paint.

I have only had had to do this in extreme cases that where to large to take down in a practical amount of time. It works great as long as ALL seams are sealed before paint application. If you get a bubble wait till it dries and cut away with a razor and float it out.
I Did a bathroom like this 6 years ago, and when I recently went to do their kitchen the bathroom still looks awesome.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

two reason why painting over wallpaper is a bad idea are:

More work than stripping
Guaranteed future failure.


From what you describe how you are going to deal with this crap shoot, I could have had the whole room stripped with a guarantee of no further issues.

Painted wallpaper is a ticking time bomb, it will blow up. Maybe before you get your check, maybe not.

sell the most economical and value packed solution to the jerk face owner.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

It's a crappy apartment. You can't really sell to those owners.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Painting over paper is a stopgap procedure like Bill said.I would either convince the owner of this or move on and let some jack leg deal with it.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

daArch said:


> two reason why painting over wallpaper is a bad idea are:
> 
> More work than stripping
> Guaranteed future failure.
> ...


As the way things should be done, you are absolutely correct.
That particular job I can tell you for a fact it was a 4 day project to remove the paper prep the walls and paint without any texture.

I would have preferred to do it that way but sometimes my customers want cheaper options that bend the rules and I give it to them when I know I can . This option took 3 days included texture and a warning with no expressed guarantee on my part and they chose it anyway. They are good clients of mine and they know I wouldn't leave them hanging should a problem arise. But If they were to want it done right I always prescribe it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Unless the paper was originally over raw rock, I have a feeling you could improve your removal technique.

How may square feet of gross wall space would have been stripped? (do not subtract for openings) 

How long would it have taken you to strip, wash residue paste, and clean up?

If it sounds like I can help you improve your technique, I'll get deeper into your method and see if I can offer some suggestions.


AND how long did it take you to make the existing paper ready for the first coat of paint?

How many coats did you apply?


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

Sure ill take a stroll down memory lane (Cue dreamy harp). Square feet for the bathroom and closet was 480 I spent a couple hours during my bid to see just how it came down. what I ran into was two layers of paper. Top layer seemed less like wall paper and more like giant sheets of sticker. It Did not come up easy at all. The second layer was like normal wall paper BUT the adhesive was something I had not run into before. When it was soaked down it had a gummy consistency. It would not peel of it just rolled into gummy balls. And any more It was like picking off boogers. After two hours I had seen enough to give my thoughts on it. It was Suck.

So after talking with them they decided all warnings aside to texture and paint over it. I felt pretty safe because this stuff was not comin down with out a fight.

Day one after masking off rooms I floated all seams with 20 min. then caulked in ceiling seam. Then sprayed two coats of Coverstain.

Day two light sand on walls Sprayed texture did a knockdown.

Day three Light sand on texture cleaned dust Sprayed and back rolled walls with Kelly Moore Semi Gloss 1650 enamel. After lunch Sprayed one more time then tore down masking took 10 hrs on last day to finish and put everything back together.

I know its not by the book but it still looks good today.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

OK, you may have had one of those exceptional exceptions.

If your description is accurate, and my suspicions also, sounds like you may have had two layers hung with VOV (vinyl over vinyl). VOV is a synthetic polymer GLUE (no, not starch based PASTE).

but instead of texturing over it, I would have suggested two sticks of TNT.

"Bring that dynamite and a crane, 
Blow it up, start all over again."


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

daArch said:


> OK, you may have had one of those exceptional exceptions.
> 
> If your description is accurate, and my suspicions also, sounds like you may have had two layers hung with VOV (vinyl over vinyl). VOV is a synthetic polymer GLUE (no, not starch based PASTE).
> 
> ...


 
God, I hate that stuff! How many times have ho's hung their own border on bare sheetrock with vov ? They read the instruction and see vov needed, neglecting to finish the sentence, which says over top of existing paper, idiots:furious:


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

Wow this thread kinda blew up!!!
I have about 2500' of this to deal w/. Previous whomever even wallpapered the closets!!
I would actually be willing to tackle doing it the right way if I can sell the idea. 
I haven't done much paper stripping but Diff stripper wasn't all that impressive... Any better products you can make me aware of?
Although they are pretty intent on painting over it. 
I'll keep everyone updated and thanx for all the info..


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

If someone was to paint over paper for whatever reason I can assure you it is much harder to remove that paper when it fails or when ever the HO realizes it looks like crap.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

randrohe said:


> Wow this thread kinda blew up!!!
> I have about 2500' of this to deal w/. Previous whomever even wallpapered the closets!!
> I would actually be willing to tackle doing it the right way if I can sell the idea.
> I haven't done much paper stripping but Diff stripper wasn't all that impressive... Any better products you can make me aware of?
> ...


 
Get some Safe and Simple( way,way, better than Diff) and follow the directions, it will come off, unless it was hung on un primed drywall.

http://www.safeandsimple.com/


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