# Glazing cabinets and trim



## A+HomeWork

OK-I have avoided this like the plague for weeks, but a great customer of mine wants to have all her woodwork glazed/antiqued, tea-stained, whatever. She got stood-up 3 times by the go-to guy in town and is irritated. She knows I have never done this.

I have been looking at youtube and online videos. I have read books. I have spoken to people who have had it done in their homes. I think I know the process.

Questions:
1. Am I about to step in the middle of something regrettable? Is this more complicated than I think?
2. Who here could advise me on this? I could do well in town with this talent, if I knew what products and procedures were best.
3. Client's house has an addition that has acrylic enamel while rest has oil!
4. Which glaze or stain?
5. Which clear coat, poly or lacquer?
6. Brush, sponge, or rag?
7. Convert the latex area to oil so all is same surface?
8. Move to another city?
This house is occupied, so I would have to do an area at a time.


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## michael tust

A+HomeWork said:


> OK-I have avoided this like the plague for weeks, but a great customer of mine wants to have all her woodwork glazed/antiqued, tea-stained, whatever. She got stood-up 3 times by the go-to guy in town and is irritated. She knows I have never done this.
> 
> I have been looking at youtube and online videos. I have read books. I have spoken to people who have had it done in their homes. I think I know the process.
> 
> Questions:
> 1. Am I about to step in the middle of something regrettable? Is this more complicated than I think?
> 2. Who here could advise me on this? I could do well in town with this talent, if I knew what products and procedures were best.
> 3. Client's house has an addition that has acrylic enamel while rest has oil!
> 4. Which glaze or stain?
> 5. Which clear coat, poly or lacquer?
> 6. Brush, sponge, or rag?
> 7. Convert the latex area to oil so all is same surface?
> 8. Move to another city?
> This house is occupied, so I would have to do an area at a time.


Will try to give you my opinion later this evening.... Where in Oaklahoma are you located ? We did a Big Restoration Project in Enid...


Michael Tust


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## michael tust

First...This is not really complicated.....

I can tell you the way we do this... It works fine for us with nice results... I can not say if this way is the best way or not. Yes the products do play a part,but so does the Artist.........

A Glaze that we use is An Oil Glazeing Liquid ,mixed with Paint Thinner,and we have used Japan Paints for the Colorant... But I think Artist Oils may be better as they do not have the driers of Japan paint... More Open Time....

Oil Base Poly always worked for us... I like using that.....

Brush on the Glaze...then remove it with Cheesecloth creating a Stria......

Do a test on the Acrylic to see if you need to convert to Oil... It may depend on the Quality / Sheen / and if it gives the correct results do to this.....

This is VERY Doable .... If you do not do this much ,or at all... You just need to work a few Panels for a day or so.. and you will know how to bid it,and how long it will take.... Other Artists on the Forum may have a Different approach .... Use the one that fits your project and you feel comfortable with... Do a good job and the client may tell a few people.... Do a bad job and the client will tell everyone...

Don't even sweat this job... No Problem...


Michael Tust


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## A+HomeWork

michael tust said:


> Will try to give you my opinion later this evening.... Where in Oaklahoma are you located ? We did a Big Restoration Project in Enid...
> 
> 
> Michael Tust


I am in Enid! Contact me if you will be here again. Where are you from?


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## A+HomeWork

michael tust said:


> First...This is not really complicated.....
> 
> I can tell you the way we do this... It works fine for us with nice results... I can not say if this way is the best way or not. Yes the products do play a part,but so does the Artist.........
> 
> A Glaze that we use is An Oil Glazeing Liquid ,mixed with Paint Thinner,and we have used Japan Paints for the Colorant... But I think Artist Oils may be better as they do not have the driers of Japan paint... More Open Time....
> 
> Oil Base Poly always worked for us... I like using that.....
> 
> Brush on the Glaze...then remove it with Cheesecloth creating a Stria......
> 
> Do a test on the Acrylic to see if you need to convert to Oil... It may depend on the Quality / Sheen / and if it gives the correct results do to this.....
> 
> Michael Tust


Regarding the oil glaze, what is the product? Would SW have it? 
Would I need to order the Japan paint colorants? I suppose there are just a couple I might need for this project (?).

Do you then brush a satin or less sheen polyurethane? I know it's best to spray, but I don't think I can do this in every part of this house.

We want to accomplish something like this picture.
http://www.artisticalternatives.com/cabinet_glazed1.jpg


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## fauxlynn

I'm not sure what Michael uses, but the oil glaze I have used for years is Ben Moore Alkyd glaze. It can be mixed with tube oils, like Windsor Newton, that you can buy from an arts and crafts store. OR, if you want to color it with japan colors, I think the brand is called One Shot,I've only used them once, they were fine. The thing is, you have to thin the glaze with mineral spirits and add the colorant , and it should be the consistency of a slightly thick soup.

If you want to use latex based, every paint manufacturer makes one and they all pretty much suck. But, the benefit is that it will dry faster and not smell up the house. With a latex glaze you can use universal tints to color the glaze or a very small quantity of latex paint added to the glaze will work.The con is because it dries faster, it could give you trouble. Faux Effects has a product available to the non professional that works well, but you would have to find a supplier.

As far as technique, you can use the cheesecloth, but it kind of depends on what your client wants. Whatever you use, brush or rag, just have a dry brush handy to clean up the corners. Nothing says ameteur like a sloppy crevice.Depending on the size of the pieces, some people do all the horizontals, then the verticals OR you can do them all in one fell swoop if you are fast.
As far as urethane, if you glaze with oil, it isn't necessary to urethane.With latex, though, there is always the possibility that it will come off depending on what cleaners they may use. I would not recommend anything shinier than flat, dull, matte, or a 50/50 mix of flat and satin. IMHO, anything shinier comes off looking like plastic.

I hope this was somewhat helpful, good luck.:thumbsup:


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## Roadog

That pic must be in some magazine because I did the same look a couple months ago. I used the BM alkyd glaze thinned a bit and used mixol colorants. You could use anything for color including getting a quart of the color in oil paint. Japan paints are really a flat oil paint. Not sold as a colorant. I use and love the Ronan brand. If you want to mix your own, I usually use raw linseed oil, thinned with mineral spirits and then some japan dryer. Plus color. Do a test though to get your dryer right. BM latex works well if you move fast, otherwise as fauxlynn suggest, try the faux effects stuff. The oil products will yellow in time though so that should be explained. If thats not do-able then go with the waterbase stuff and put a water base clear coat on.


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## michael tust

All these replies should get you started as they are right on the money. Maybe to begin with.... as a starting color test,many times for Antiquing we use Raw Umber a Standard color . Hard for me to tell by the picture. Most of the Oil Glazeing Products are fine... B M Etc... or even to make your own... All you need is a tint to color the glaze to the correct hue... Artist Oils... Japan Paint... Even Cal Tint can work... Instead of buying a can of Japan Paint... Or Artist Oils.... Since you are a Painter you may have Cal Tints already.... Try raw Umber.. It depends of course on the amount of tint used to arrive at the exact desired value. if the raw Umber was correct... I would buy a tube of Artist Oils to tint my glaze... You really do not need too much stuff for this project.. 

We are very near San Francisco about 10 minutes away. We did the Symphony Hall out there in 1998 - 2000 -and in 2002.... 



Michael Tust


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## A+HomeWork

michael tust said:


> We are very near San Francisco about 10 minutes away. We did the Symphony Hall out there in 1998 - 2000 -and in 2002....
> 
> 
> 
> Michael Tust


I have been in that building upstairs and it is stunning. It's not something you would expect to see in a smaller OKLA. town.


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## A+HomeWork

fauxlynn said:


> I'm not sure what Michael uses, but the oil glaze I have used for years is Ben Moore Alkyd glaze. It can be mixed with tube oils, like Windsor Newton, that you can buy from an arts and crafts store. OR, if you want to color it with japan colors, I think the brand is called One Shot,I've only used them once, they were fine. The thing is, you have to thin the glaze with mineral spirits and add the colorant , and it should be the consistency of a slightly thick soup.
> 
> 
> As far as urethane, if you glaze with oil, it isn't necessary to urethane.With latex, though, there is always the possibility that it will come off depending on what cleaners they may use. I would not recommend anything shinier than flat, dull, matte, or a 50/50 mix of flat and satin. IMHO, anything shinier comes off looking like plastic.
> 
> I hope this was somewhat helpful, good luck.:thumbsup:


I picked-up Gem Glo oil glaze in RAW UMBER, BLACK, VANDYKE BROWN.

I plan to wipe some scrap doors my friend gave me to see how it goes on and if that's going to be enough to get the customer's look. Hopefully so, so I won't have to fuss with trying to custom color a glaze.

It says it needs a clear coat or finish coat. Oil poly? Lacquer? Any waterbased product acceptable? Lynn, should I protective coat this project, especially in kitchen and baths?

PS-I really appreciate everyone's input and different methods. I'd gladly pay to be taught this, if any classes were available around here.


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## A+HomeWork

Roadog said:


> That pic must be in some magazine because I did the same look a couple months ago.


I just googled images trying to find what we are trying to accomplish, so it probably was in a magazine.


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## fauxlynn

I would poly it, I was just saying it didn't require it if it was oil. I like Coronado, but others are ok, Sikkens.. whatever.But yes, poly it. You can call me if you want I am not busy today.Sent you a pm


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## Cusingeorge

A+HomeWork said:


> I picked-up Gem Glo oil glaze in RAW UMBER, BLACK, VANDYKE BROWN.
> 
> I plan to wipe some scrap doors my friend gave me to see how it goes on and if that's going to be enough to get the customer's look. Hopefully so, so I won't have to fuss with trying to custom color a glaze.
> 
> It says it needs a clear coat or finish coat. Oil poly? Lacquer? Any waterbased product acceptable? Lynn, should I protective coat this project, especially in kitchen and baths?
> 
> PS-I really appreciate everyone's input and different methods. I'd gladly pay to be taught this, if any classes were available around here.


If you are still interested in some training, shoot me a PM and let's see what I can do for you.


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## ccpainting

have any pics of the project?


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## MikeCalifornia

I was googling some images of antiqued cabinets. Do some people like this look?

http://www.billrosserpainting.com/files/antiqued_cabinets2.jpg

I'm not degrading this companies work, just the look of them. They look like cabinets that have not been cleaned in 100 years, ever. I like the subtle glaze look or the multicolor wear through.


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## michael tust

MikeCalifornia said:


> I was googling some images of antiqued cabinets. Do some people like this look? http://www.billrosserpainting.com/files/antiqued_cabinets2.jpg I'm not degrading this companies work, just the look of them. They look like cabinets that have not been cleaned in 100 years, ever. I like the subtle glaze look or the multicolor wear through.


To be as Nice as I can........

They're not supposed to look like this... 


Michael Tust


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## benthepainter

Looks like an aged nicotine look lol yuuuuk the smokers finish


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## MikeCalifornia

There is alot of pics that are like this? Yuuuuuk is right. Guess this is what fauxlynn means by amatuer.


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## slinger58

benthepainter said:


> Looks like an aged nicotine look lol yuuuuk the smokers finish


That's a "WTF Finish" if ever I saw one.


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## fauxlynn

MikeCalifornia said:


> There is alot of pics that are like this? Yuuuuuk is right. Guess this is what fauxlynn means by amatuer.





slinger58 said:


> That's a "WTF Finish" if ever I saw one.


Wow, those are what I would call a little loose. But, you need to consider that maybe this is what the client wanted. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I mean we once did a foyer that we ended up naming 'elephant skin' because it looked well, like elephant skin. The client loved it.

IMO those cabinets in that picture could like a lot better if the swipes through the glaze didn't trail off. Look closely at the pic, the strokes through waiver at the edges and sort of buckle in or out.Some of the strokes sort of stop 2-3 inches from the edge and start again in a different direction. When you swipe through glaze with whatever, rag, brush, etc. you need to follow through PAST the edge. I hope I am explaining this clearly. It would give a cleaner appearance.


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## jacob33

..... just realized this is old


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## A+HomeWork

I am glad this thread was revived! Yes, I have pics. Tons! I have done two kitchens, two baths, a kitchen island, an antique pie safe and two fireplaces, all by referrals. All are coated with either acrylic poly or oil modified over GemGlo vandyke brown.


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## fauxlynn

Hey!! I remember how long ago we talked on the phone about this!!!! They look really good, I'm glad it worked out .:thumbup:


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## A+HomeWork

fauxlynn said:


> Hey!! I remember how long ago we talked on the phone about this!!!! They look really good, I'm glad it worked out .:thumbup:


Thanks. That kitchen was pretty lightly stained. This one is a little darker on creamier colored cabinets.

Edit: I have to confess. I actually rattle-canned satin lacquer on this small project.


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## michael tust

A+HomeWork said:


> Thanks. That kitchen was pretty lightly stained. This one is a little darker on creamier colored cabinets. Edit: I have to confess. I actually rattle-canned satin lacquer on this small project.


Not Bad At All !



Michael Tust


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