# Exterior Wood Rot -- Window sills & @ base of door jams.



## jasontwo (Oct 19, 2008)

I've been scraping the peeling paint off these surfaces and have found that in some of the areas described in the Title of this message, is almost like 'mushy' wood under the old paint, the more I touch it the more is seems to fall apart. What the heck do I do now or can I do anything? HELP!

Jason


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Replace the wood.


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## jasontwo (Oct 19, 2008)

*Wood Rot*

Yeh, I'm for that too but I'm in the middle of the job now and I'm 'no' carpenter! I can see that the only way to correct this is to actually attempt to replace the effected damaged wood. Perhaps I should have gotten a little closer to the actual surface when looking at the job. I guess this is called "learning a lesson". :no:
Jason.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Write up a change order for the client and sub it out to a carpenter.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

jasontwo said:


> I'm 'no' carpenter! .


Should know some basic skills to change out some wood. I think every painter should have some knowledge of replacing basic wood.


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## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

We seriously need a training forum prior to getting approval to log onto THEE ONE AND ONLY PAINTTALK.COM. 

Seriously cowboy what does common sense tell you? Perhaps show the client? Perhaps ask if that's something they would want you to handle (and as PWG said, sub it out) If your on the job site and: one - can't do it yourself, and two -do not have 4 cell numbers for 4 different skill level of carpenters, you best stay home, collect unemployment and leave the jobsite activities to the men who put their big boy undies on in the morning.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

bottom line, you can be as thorough as you can with an estimate. There is 80% chance of being some woodrot somewhere. I make sure to have the homeowner sign a spot on the contract that states that "if and when" I come across this, they will be notified, a change order will be added, they WILL sign it, and that money to fix whatever it is is due immediately".

Replacement is the only true way to fix the problem. I was in SW and saw this stuff by bondo that you can shoot into wood, or pour on it or something like that.. that stabilizes the nasty wood. I would never use it but there is I guess that alternative too. YOU better not pay for it, cause it is outside the original estimate.


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

If the damage isn't too much then you can dig it out and use a wood hardener to treat the area with before filling with a good wood filler. There are some wood fillers available now that you can plane/sand and shape just as you would with timber which are pretty good if you've got any moulding on it to reshape. If the timber is to be stained though then it's a replacement job.


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

timhag said:


> Should know some basic skills to change out some wood. I think every painter should have some knowledge of replacing basic wood.


Wood doesn't like me  It never does what it's supposed to. I get by though and if it's something I can't handle then I've got one or two carpenters I can call on.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

TooledUp said:


> Wood doesn't like me  It never does what it's supposed to. I get by though and if it's something I can't handle then I've got one or two carpenters I can call on.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

TooledUp said:


> Wood doesn't like me  It never does what it's supposed to. I get by though and if it's something I can't handle then I've got one or two carpenters I can call on.


I am not allowed to handle power tools anymore.


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## bryncomeaux (Mar 29, 2009)

if it's really bad there is an epoxy that can be injected ito hole drilled into the damaged wood. This is good when most of the window is good and the carpentry is a complex of joints meeting together. I usually dig out all the rot and insert screws into the good wood then put in alot of bondo and sand it to shape. Helps to cut the rough shape when it set up and before it gets hard. thers limits to what wood hardenwr can do and its not usually for rot.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

TooledUp said:


> Wood doesn't like me  It never does what it's supposed to.


Me either. Thank goodness for caulking. :laughing:


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## jasontwo (Oct 19, 2008)

*Exterior Wood Rot..........*

Geez, I really didn't mean to upset you JAYJAY. Everyone listed below your post replied without any *sar⋅casm: *sneering or cutting remarks, harsh or bitter derision(an object of ridicule)

Thanks to the rest of you guys for your honest remarks and legitimate advise. This was my first encounter with this type of problem as I normally do not do outside painting.

Here's what I've to done date: advised the owner of what I've found; he does not want to replace the areas of rot at this time as he knows he'll have to replace the windows/door frames within a couple of years anyway, it's a 'patch-up' for now; sought out the recommendation of a recognized carpenter who has suggested the 'bondo' filler 'fix-me-up' as a temporary measure as did most you fellow painters have suggested; advised him of the 'extra' charges including the cost of material which he has agreed to and he has signed the amendment to the original contract. 

I thank all of you for your sincerity.:thumbup:

I hope I'm welcome to post again.:blink:

Regads,
Jason


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

glad to hear it worked out :thumbsup: and post freely


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## deach (May 11, 2008)

Sounds to me like you handled it exactly right. Good Going!


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Jason, welcome to the forum. While I dont always agree with the sarcasm and ridicule that occurs, it helps to have some thick skin. You handled it correctly. If you notify the HO, amend your contract/warranty for the affected areas, and have signed change orders for any temp repairs, you've covered your butt adequately.

Learning how to properly repair these areas is something you may want to consider as you'll probably run into more of these in your career.


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## jasontwo (Oct 19, 2008)

nEighter:

I took a look at your Repair/Repaint photos and I recognized some window rot on a couple of photos that were much the same as I encountered. I worked on them today with the bondo; found out real quick that you have to work with it within a very short period of time after you've added the hardner. I was never a 'car' body person either. lol.

Thanks for your constructive coments.
Jason


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## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

Well I will admit I was coming off a bad day the evening I responded, but normally your question gets you evicted to the DIY forum. You were cut some slack and perhaps rightly so...... We have a new tone here at painttalk!

Bondo will work in some cases (I am still a part time "body man") but it will crack if over done so use wisely. 

You are welcome to post anytime!:yes:


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## jasontwo (Oct 19, 2008)

*Exterior wood rot.........*

Thanks for the reply JAYJAY, your words were well taken. :thumbup:

Jason


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## jordanski (Feb 5, 2009)

*no no no bondo*

with all due respect guys... you are giving bad advice on using bondo for deep fill and shaping rotted out window sills... right idea, wrong product.

neutralizer, epoxy, epoxy fill....:thumbsup: everything must be dry first!:no:

I have done a ton of this type of work and live in the wettest, most wood rotting city in the country, bondo has no teeth, you can get away with it on lite sun-cracked sills... what he is describing is full-on rot..

also if it's spring and it's mushy you should be letting that get bone dry before attempting to fill and reform those sills and thresholds... I smell a hack attack!

like I said, all respect due to the cats who responded to this, but it's still wrong advice

peace
J


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## jordanski (Feb 5, 2009)

*ps.*

Timhag is right, basic carpentry and basic wood knowledge should be in your skillset if you are attempting to call yourself an exterior painter. How are you going to protect your client's investment and house without knowing what you are doing first?

you should understand how and where to nail things to shore them up, siding and trim replacement, moisture issues that affect the chemistry you are using in your trade, millage, wood grain, species, age and condition all affect your primer, prep and finish coat... you should be pounding the books so to speak and talking shop down at the trade stores...

the problem you described would be considered elementary or rookie level to a proper painting contractor, unless he strictly does industrial, maritime etc.

J


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I have had good luck with http://www.abatron.com/cms/ Epoxy. if it is real bad and I can't get all of the rot out I will brush in a coat of West System epoxy/fiberglass resin. To lock it all in place.


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