# Plaster/skim coat



## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

Just had my drywall taper in to repair a kitchen remodel where the walls and ceiling were "rock lath" http://www.contractortalk.com/attac...er-considerations-myoldhouse-plasterwalls.jpg In spots it involved patching in new drywall as a result of walls being damaged when the cabinets were being ripped out , water damage repair on the ceiling and a skim coat over it as the HO wanted a non-textured ceiling. Needless to say there were several moving parts and I didn't feel comfortable tackling the mudding myself. 

Before my taper came in, any plaster that was loose was scrapped and the entire ceiling was primed and in addition to any scrapped areas with Zinnser Gardz. This locked down everything nicely and my tapper used a combination of quick set muds and lightweight mud to finish.

Complicating things further, once the cabinets were removed you could see signs of nicotine staining.

Simply use BIN on the entire room? Or Gardz for the entire room? I haven't really used BIN before on skimmed walls/ceilings. Not sure if using Gardz on the skimmed areas would be best and then BIN for the original plaster areas?

Any insight would be appreciated.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I do not think Gardz is labeled for nicotine:no:


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

Gardz will not hold back the nicotine


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I would think zinzer cover stain would be easier to apply than bin and would hold the smoke stains. Smoke stain also seems to be the one thing kilz original is good for. (Zinzer is much better IMO)


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## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

Agreed Gardz will not take care of the nicotine. So should I be trying to hit the skimmed portions and patches with Gardz and the orginal plaster sections with BIN? 


Do I risk flashing by priming with different primers?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

toomuch said:


> Agreed Gardz will not take care of the nicotine. So should I be trying to hit the skimmed portions and patches with Gardz and the orginal plaster sections with BIN?
> 
> Do I risk flashing by priming with different primers?


I have had flashing occur from spot priming with bin. We always go over it with cover stain before finishing or just prime solid with bin. It will make a shiny spot in finish


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## modernfinish (Mar 20, 2013)

Zinser bullseye 1-2-3 is what I like to use . But b-I-n will work , use either of those to prime entire room /nasty nicotine . Waterbase kilz will work as well . Use whichever is cheapest


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

I've had good luck with Kilz Odorless, Just make sure you strain your primer.


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## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

Has anyone used BIN over a skim coat of lightweight mud and experienced any issues. I would hate for it to bubble!


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## modernfinish (Mar 20, 2013)

toomuch said:


> Has anyone used BIN over a skim coat of lightweight mud and experienced any issues. I would hate for it to bubble!


Yes and it will be fine


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Used to do BIN over skim coats of ez sand all the time. It never bubbled.


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## Craftworks (Apr 2, 2013)

Bin is king thats all . Enamelac was a good old product in the day .All those products are as old as the hills know for there ability as a vapor barrier . My father fixed a gas tank leak when i was a kid with it.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Shellac is the way to go sprays and dries so much faster then oil,prime completelythough,it will flash if spotted


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