# Would PPG Gripper for for cabinets?



## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

Did anybody try using PPG (Glidden) Gripper primer on cabinets?

Its only $15 per gallon at PPG... comparing to high price for SW Extreme Bonding Primer...


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

What type of finish is on the cabinets? Gripper is ok for something dull, but it can fail on oil or gloss type urathanes, etc. Don't screw your job up trying to save a few bucks.


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## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

*hi*

It was never painted before, has some oil finish I believe. How do you tell if its uretane or oil?


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## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

Also what other primers work for this?


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## northcountrypainter (Dec 7, 2012)

In my makeshift adhesion tests on a variety of cabinet finishes, I really didn't feel gripper cut it. SW extreme bond is better for a waterborne. Still, I prefer BIN in most cases.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Your finish depends on your primer. It's cabinets. You're talking about saving about maybe $50-75. Spend the $ and feel the confidence. If you're hellbent, if go with sealgrip over gripper. Scuff either way. Or you could scuff and go straight into breakthrough which (imo) is a better bond than either gripper or sealgrip provided the existing finish is intact and you're going for bond not sealing bleed.

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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

gregplus said:


> It was never painted before, has some oil finish I believe. How do you tell if its uretane or oil?


I used the term urethane as a general term to cover a stained and coated type finish, maybe not the best choice of words but you get the picture. As for the question about how to tell if something is oil, it is not as easy as it used to be with the infusion of the many types of hybrid oils. My old standard is that if you sand it and it turns to dust, it is probably oil. There are lots of threads covering cabinet painting, try to search for some of the info you seek. Good luck!


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

So wanting to save a few dollars the most crucial coat on a cabinet job. A gallon of primer goes forever on cabinet jobs you may be able to use it for two or three more jobs. I wouldn't sweat the extra bucks for a high-end primer, which gripper is not.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

lilpaintchic said:


> Your finish depends on your primer. It's cabinets. You're talking about saving about maybe $50-75. Spend the $ and feel the confidence. If you're hellbent, if go with sealgrip over gripper. Scuff either way. Or you could scuff and go straight into breakthrough which (imo) is a better bond than either gripper or sealgrip provided the existing finish is intact and you're going for bond not sealing bleed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


That would work, but I would put a coat of seal grip on it first(just because)


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## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

*hi*

OK so if I use SW Extreme what semigloss latex do you recommend after that?

Thanks


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

chrisn said:


> That would work, but I would put a coat of seal grip on it first(just because)


Believe me, I like primer too. But given my experiences with breakthrough on cabs in the last couple of months I'd consider going straight to finish on this one if the circumstances were right....that stuff bonds impressively. Why throw it on top of something that doesn't? Especially if it's an unnecessary step? Just my 2 cents and worth just as much.

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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

gregplus said:


> OK so if I use SW Extreme what semigloss latex do you recommend after that?
> 
> Thanks


Brush/spray or both?

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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

lilpaintchic said:


> Believe me, I like primer too. But given my experiences with breakthrough on cabs in the last couple of months I'd consider going straight to finish on this one if the circumstances were right....that stuff bonds impressively. Why throw it on top of something that doesn't? Especially if it's an unnecessary step? Just my 2 cents and worth just as much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I am old school and it is hard to wrap my head around a product that does not need a bonding step. I have used Breakthough a few times and am impressed with the bonding properties, but in the back of my mind a little voice whispers "What if?". So I have a question for those of you who are using it on a regular basis without a bonding step, and instead of asking what will it work on I will narrow it down. Q: What surfaces would you not trust Breakthrough to bond to, and instead use a bonding primer first? Thanks!


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

I use breakthrough as well, but I can't bring myself to not prime. From stain grade to paint, I always use either bin or coverstain, depending on what sort of mess we're looking at.


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

Gwarel said:


> I am old school and it is hard to wrap my head around a product that does not need a bonding step. I have used Breakthough a few times and am impressed with the bonding properties, but in the back of my mind a little voice whispers "What if?". So I have a question for those of you who are using it on a regular basis without a bonding step, and instead of asking what will it work on I will narrow it down. Q: What surfaces would you not trust Breakthrough to bond to, and instead use a bonding primer first? Thanks!


very old school here myself .... 40+ years in the painting trade, 14 years running crews of 80+ painters doing multi million dollars projects at Disney & Universal studios, last 10 years my own company

i have to agree 100% with lilpaintchic, 80% of our work is kitchen cabinet painting, last year we painted 6,842 cabinet doors / drawers at our shop with Breakthrough with zero failure ... no primmer straight breakthrough

now don't get me wrong if you need stain blocking prime first but for bonding i trust breakthrough better than any primmer made


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Gwarel said:


> I am old school and it is hard to wrap my head around a product that does not need a bonding step. I have used Breakthough a few times and am impressed with the bonding properties, but in the back of my mind a little voice whispers "What if?". So I have a question for those of you who are using it on a regular basis without a bonding step, and instead of asking what will it work on I will narrow it down. Q: What surfaces would you not trust Breakthrough to bond to, and instead use a bonding primer first? Thanks!


Honestly, I'm having a tough time coming up with something it likely wouldn't bond to at least as well as many of our preferred primers.
I would not use it as self priming on any unsealed surface such as new rock, mdf, or wood products. I'm confident the bond would be fine but it wouldn't build to leave the desired finish, it's way too thin. Also, it's not great with a brush. Boxes are fine but anything more than that and I'm sure we'd have problems. I thank Florida for all the great info to get me to throw the dice. Our last cab job was a BREEZE. BT straight over oil (yes, I did a hillbilly garage sample as I was pretty nervous) with just a light scuff. My samples were gripper, seal grip and straight bt. Bt had it hands down. 

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## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

*hi*

1 - Can Breakthough be sprayed with regular sprayer and 310 FF tip or must be HVLP?

2 - Since its fast drying formula do I have to clean sprayer right after use or I can soak gun in water and wait 2-3 hours to apply second coat?


3 - There is only Sating and Gloss, no SemiGloss? If so will Gloss be to shiny to do doors and trim with it?



Thanks


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

old post from 2.5 years 

www.painttalk.com/f2/kitchen-cabinet-painting-orlando-fl-34377/




,


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

gregplus said:


> 1 - Can Breakthough be sprayed with regular sprayer and 310 FF tip or must be HVLP?
> 
> 2 - Since its fast drying formula do I have to clean sprayer right after use or I can soak gun in water and wait 2-3 hours to apply second coat?
> 
> ...


Airless. FF tip 310 is fine. I'm lazy. Throw the gun in a bucket of water, release the pressure it'll hold over night, it's a sealed unit. And the satin has plenty of sheen for cabs. A tad higher than an average satin imo...
I can't bring myself to read through the entire thread fr reposted....hes got all the info though. I've read it before at some point, you'd do well to give it your time at some point. Have your ppg rep hook you up with some bt and run your own tests.(try it on a piece of milimene) Don't just take our word for it (though our cumulative experiences are valuable) play with it a bit.  happy painting!


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## gregplus (Jun 11, 2013)

lilpaintchic said:


> Airless. FF tip 310 is fine. I'm lazy. Throw the gun in a bucket of water, release the pressure it'll hold over night, it's a sealed unit. And the satin has plenty of sheen for cabs. A tad higher than an average satin imo...
> I can't bring myself to read through the entire thread fr reposted....hes got all the info though. I've read it before at some point, you'd do well to give it your time at some point. Have your ppg rep hook you up with some bt and run your own tests.(try it on a piece of milimene) Don't just take our word for it (though our cumulative experiences are valuable) play with it a bit.  happy painting!
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I will try, cant wait :biggrin:

So to cleanup sprayer just use water? No mineral spirits needed?


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

gregplus said:


> I will try, cant wait
> 
> So to cleanup sprayer just use water? No mineral spirits needed?


Yup. Easy.

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