# My HVLP and Aura



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Been wanting to be able and find a non-alkyd to use through my HVLP that would give me result comparable to Satin Impervo. Not I'll be the first to admit that SI is almost idiot proof but it does have it's drawback.

Anyway, I had a metal door of my own leading out into the garage that hadn't gotten painted yet so I practiced with some Aura satin through my 4 stage HVLP (#4 tip) today. I thinned it about 20% with BMs extender and then about 20% some more with water until I had about a 25 second count through the viscosity cup.

I sprayed the door (smooth metal six panel) laying down. Have just done one coat so far (it will obviously need a second) and I like the sheen and the look of about 95% of the door. Everything looks good except in the beveled edges of the panels where there is some sagging that's occurred. This happened more on the sides where I was standing so obviously I got it on a bit too thick. I did spray it on fairly wet - almost like doing Satin Impervo so I'm guessing I need to ease up and do several (maybe even three) lighter coats. Every where else it leveled out very nicely and not all the beveled edges had sagging. I'm confident the sagging will sand out fine in preparation for the second coat.

So thoughts from those of you who work with Aura and have a feel for it? Applying it too heavy? Lighter faster coats as opposed to somewhat slower and thicker ones? Thinning it too much? Suggestions will be appreciated.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Looks really good. I can fix just about any sprayer....using one like that....not so much. I can spray......brick.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Not sure I would have used aura for a metal door as aura is a soft paint. I would have used Advanced. This can sag very easy on you too. Tommy has a thread somewhere on tack coats which works nicely.

Practice and more practice is the best answer though for any paints.

Pat


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have felt aura was a "hard" paint when cured, really a first for wb benjamin Moore products when it came out IMHO.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

DeanV said:


> I have felt aura was a "hard" paint when cured, really a first for wb benjamin Moore products when it came out IMHO.



I dunno, even after it dries it seems soft to me, every time I paint a window that has weather striping, the windows seem to stick for ever and in some cases it pulls the paint off, same with doors. One front door I had to go back to using oil because no matter what I did the door kept sticking to the plastic/rubber weather striping. I tried moving it back a bit and nothing worked. This was several months later too.

Pat


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I was thinking interior aura. I have heard of that with exterior.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

PatsPainting said:


> I dunno, even after it dries it seems soft to me, every time I paint a window that has weather striping, the windows seem to stick for ever and in some cases it pulls the paint off, same with doors. One front door I had to go back to using oil because no matter what I did the door kept sticking to the plastic/rubber weather striping. I tried moving it back a bit and nothing worked. This was several months later too.
> 
> Pat


Change the weatherstripping. They can out gas solvent and mess with WB finishes. Its not super common but can happen.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I am not a fan of Aura as an interior enamel. There are plenty of much better alternatives imo.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> Change the weatherstripping. They can out gas solvent and mess with WB finishes. Its not super common but can happen.


Or rub a little petroleum jelly on them.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have never settled on a favorite interior wb for both spraying and brushing,. Aura can work, but only on simple brushing surfaces. Advance is a too prone to runs for me. Wb impervo a bit shiny and soft. Benjamin Moore products tend to be a bit better for brushing than spraying, IMHO.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> Change the weatherstripping. They can out gas solvent and mess with WB finishes. Its not super common but can happen.


I did and it still stuck. This was a pia, The door was originally oil, so I just went back to oil and that did the trick.

Pat


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

This is the exterior Aura. Since it's our door, and the side of it that faces out into the garage, experimenting with it was perfect. I have it sanded and ready for a second coat so I'll practice with a tack process this time around. 

As I've stated, I love using my HVLP for oil - hard to get a better looking finish. I also like how it uses relatively little paint, is easy to clean up, and doesn't throw out much overspray. I just need to find a WB that I can learn to spray through it with out too much fussiness and with consistently good results.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> I am not a fan of Aura as an interior enamel. There are plenty of much better alternatives imo.


Please feel free to share - especially if you've run em through an HVLP.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

I run BM Acrylic DTM through my earlex with better results than that.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

DeanV said:


> I have never settled on a favorite interior wb for both spraying and brushing,. Aura can work, but only on simple brushing surfaces. Advance is a too prone to runs for me. Wb impervo a bit shiny and soft. Benjamin Moore products tend to be a bit better for brushing than spraying, IMHO.


I agree,it's almost unbelievable that benjamin moore doesn't manufacture an acceptable trim and door paint that you can spray. I'd go even further and say that they don't make an acceptable trim and door paint that you can brush either. no way should a $59/gallon paint RUN after application! ridiculous!!! and eff the so-called 'learning curve'.

ben is a crap trim paint and so is spec. advance runs like crazy and so does aura.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

*******


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Xmark said:


> I agree,it's almost unbelievable that benjamin moore doesn't manufacture an acceptable trim and door paint that you can spray. I'd go even further and say that they don't make an acceptable trim and door paint that you can brush either. no way should a $59/gallon paint RUN after application! ridiculous!!! and eff the so-called 'learning curve'.
> 
> ben is a crap trim paint and so is spec. advance runs like crazy and so does aura.


I've never had a problem with advance running when brushing or rolling with a 1/4" nap. I think it's an amazing finish, I haven't tried spraying it yet. I agree Aura interior is fine for simple profiles, but needs extender if you're trying to lay it off with a brush. . I have sprayed interior aura with an airless and FF tip with great results.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

HeadHoncho said:


> I run BM Acrylic DTM through my earlex with better results than that.


HH
Do you mean the ironclad low luster metal & wood enamel? Latex?


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

researchhound said:


> *******


Hey Dan
Have you tried shooting Cabinet Coat with your hvlp yet? It only comes in lighter base colors, but I would think that could be a winner. I shot it with my airless with mixed results, some amazing, and some strange air bubble type things, which basically disappeared when it dried, but scared the pants off me while it was wet. The TDS says hvlp is the preferred method of spray for that product. Also you can usually get thought Ace in addition to BM.


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## davezedlee (May 27, 2012)

Try 750ml of Aura with 100ml of BM Extender... just sprayed a small laundry space inside a... wait for it... BM retail store; the sprayer we used had a "160 second" viscosity cup

The above mixture drained in 159 seconds. : )

Yes, the above measurements mean I'm in Canada


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

researchhound said:


> Please feel free to share - especially if you've run em through an HVLP.


For exterior doors I would probably go with an industrial enamel.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

I have never had a problem spraying Aura Satin exterior with an airless. No thinning or sagging, and it always levels out really nice. I will usually spray the doors, standing up, in place, first thing (on a full repaint), then re-install the weather stripping last(I mean after the van is loaded and I'm waiting for a check). Never had a problem with them sticking either.

I'm I missing out on something by not using an HVLP? Meh.:001_unsure:


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> I have never had a problem spraying Aura Satin exterior with an airless. No thinning or sagging, and it always levels out really nice. I will usually spray the doors, standing up, in place, first thing (on a full repaint), then re-install the weather stripping last(I mean after the van is loaded and I'm waiting for a check). Never had a problem with them sticking either.
> 
> I'm I missing out on something by not using an HVLP? Meh.:001_unsure:


George, do you shoot them in place closed, pull them off the hinges, or other?


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Damon T said:


> George, do you shoot them in place closed, pull them off the hinges, or other?


Hey Damon! On the Hinges, closed. So obviously I brush out the hinge side first. With compression type weather strip there is usually a gap large enough to spray the entire face of the door closed. Metal weather strip sometimes requires going around the perimeter of the face with a small brush prior to spraying. One of the nice things about Aura is how nicely the spray and brush work blend. I know it sounds kind of ghetto, but the results are really nice, and efficient.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

RH,

The BM Extender 518 is recommended to be added at no more then 6%. Do You think you may have added too much at 25%?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

CApainter said:


> RH,
> 
> The BM Extender 518 is recommended to be added at no more then 6%. Do You think you may have added too much at 25%?


Without a doubt. It did lay down nicely and leveled out like oil but of course the sagging then occurred. Just experimenting to try and find that sweet spot.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

RH,

I haven't used the Finishpro series of HVLP, but I'm interested in buying one. Looking at the spec sheet, I noticed 3 tip sets for the FP 9.5 HVLP. For as thin as you made the Aura, would the # 2 or 3# given you more control then the #4 tip? 

The doors you sprayed looked great, but I'd be concerned about sags too due to thinning that material down. Maybe a material with less solids would work better on that particular HVLP then the Aura?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

CApainter said:


> RH,
> 
> I haven't used the Finishpro series of HVLP, but I'm interested in buying one. Looking at the spec sheet, I noticed 3 tip sets for the FP 9.5 HVLP. For as thin as you made the Aura, would the # 2 or 3# given you more control then the #4 tip?
> 
> The doors you sprayed looked great, but I'd be concerned about sags too due to thinning that material down. Maybe a material with less solids would work better on that particular HVLP then the Aura?


Actually the door I was practicing on with Aura turned out pretty poorly. The doors I posted pics of for the other job were all done in Satin Impervo - those did turn out great.

That's been my issue. I really like the control my HVLP gives me for residential interior repaints. It's amazing with just about any oil based product but so far I have not found the magic WB elixir that works even remotely as well. May try the Cabinet Coat as Damon suggested ([email protected] - just did a search and it's sold at HD *and* Walmart? Damon - WTF you doing to me man? ).


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Hey buddy
It's sold through BM as they own inls-x. Also I believe Ace carries it. I get it at BM so they can match what I want. 
I just shot an Aura ext door today in bright yellow. I thinned slightly with water, and layer on multiple thin coats. I may hit it again tomorrow, but it was an improvement over past efforts. I've tried in the past to nail the door with one full coat, and with big color changes that just leads to too much product dumping on the door. The Aura worked well for multiple passes just a few minutes apart. 



















The yellow door is the after pic. The paint would've taken a ton of coats to cover by brush.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Hey buddy
> It's sold through BM as they own inls-x. Also I believe Ace carries it. I get it at BM so they can match what I want.
> I just shot an Aura ext door today in bright yellow. I thinned slightly with water, and layer on multiple thin coats. I may hit it again tomorrow, but it was an improvement over past efforts. I've tried in the past to nail the door with one full coat, and with big color changes that just leads to too much product dumping on the door. The Aura worked well for multiple passes just a few minutes apart.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Thanks for the information.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Thanks. I'll see if I can get a better pic tomorrow when done and dry. 
I hear ya on loving the control of hvlp. 
Also, fwiw I turned my turbine down to low, which is 4 stage. So you should be fine laying on thinner coats.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

I like shooting O' Leary satin ceramic with my HVLP...


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Never heard of that one before. Seems to be a regional brand as far as store locations.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Hey RH
WhAt needle / cap setup are you typically using?


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## -ganja- (Aug 2, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I've never had a problem with advance running when brushing or rolling with a 1/4" nap. I think it's an amazing finish, I haven't tried spraying it yet. I agree Aura interior is fine for simple profiles, but needs extender if you're trying to lay it off with a brush. . I have sprayed interior aura with an airless and FF tip with great results.


I really like Behr for trim paint...ive had great results with minimal challenges...


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Hey RH
> WhAt needle / cap setup are you typically using?


Been experimenting with a 4. Need to try a 3. What'd you end up using on your doors?


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I've been using a 4 for everything acrylic. My friend uses a 3 for everything and gets great results. He's used his hvlp a lot more than I have. I think it really comes down to practice.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

For sure. Plus experimenting with reducing the products just the right amount. But my frustration is that it shouldn't have to be that difficult. Keep hoping a product will come along that will work perfectly through an HLVP with minimal hassle. They really are great units to use for interior finish work.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Have you tried the ppg breakthrough yet? i shot a couple doors at my house in prep for a bigger job, with no reduction and the 4 setup, worked great, it's a thinner viscosity product. My local Miller stores carry it.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Have you tried the ppg breakthrough yet? i shot a couple doors at my house in prep for a bigger job, with no reduction and the 4 setup, worked great, it's a thinner viscosity product. My local Miller stores carry it.


No, but it's on my list of product to try.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

researchhound said:


> Never heard of that one before. Seems to be a regional brand as far as store locations.


Yeah its a regional brand here in Michigan. I like to use it for interior or exterior door's and trim great product.. 

Here is some info...
https://www.olearypaint.com/shop/product_ceramic.html

Tech info...


CERAMIC COAT 100% ACRYLIC SATIN 
1500 LINE 
SECTION NO. 2 ADS-308 






Type 







Sheen 





Spread Rate 





Recommended Application 







Thinner 






Clean Up 



DRY TIME 





Tack Free 





Re-coat 





Cure 





100% Acrylic 





Satin 




Up to 400 Sq Ft Per Gallon 




Brush, Roller, or Spray 



Clean Water 





Warm Soapy Water 



30 Minutes 





4 Hours 



7 - 10 Days 





PRODUCT NAME: Ceramic
Acrylic Latex Enamel 
1500 LINE 



Ceramic Satin Enamel is an interior / exterior finish formulated with ceramic spheres to impart excellent stain resistance properties which is suitable for coating primed metal, wood or masonry surfaces. The acrylic resin provides excellent color and gloss retention as well as tenacious adhesion properties. The ceramic spheres impart flow, leveling and stain removal characteristics. This product complies with LEED Green Building Rating System GS-11 for interior non-flat paints. 





WHERE TO USE: 






Metal Wood Masonry Drywall 

Interior/Exterior Ceramic Enamel is suitable for top-coating tanks, towers, metal buildings, signs, wood trim, doors, furniture, walls, equipment, where- 
ever beauty and maintenance is needed. Not recommended for unprimed wood and metal, immersion service or high corrosion areas. Not to be used 
as a house paint on wood siding. 




Surface Preparation: 



New Work: The surface to be coated must be clean and free of oil, grease, rust and other contaminants that could interfere with adhesion. 
Priming – 
Ferrous Metal – Metal Primer 36-11, 35-111, 35-147 or 35-153 or 2090 Non-Ferrous Metal – PermaBond 100-10 or 2090 
Galvanized – Use latex Metal Primer 100-10 or 36-11
Wood Interior – Latex Undercoat 50 or Alkyd Undercoat 37-11
Wood Exterior – Latex Primer 2090 (use for wood trim & doors only) or 0560 Drywall/Plaster – Latex Primer Sealer 1190 or No. 50
Concrete – Self Priming or Block Filler 946-11 or Masonry Sealer 48-11. 
Repaint: The surface to be painted must be clean and free of dirt, chalk, mildew, wax, grease, rust or loose flaking paint. Dirt and chalk should be removed by thorough power washing. Mildew should be washed with a bleach and water solution. Wax should be removed by solvent cleaning. Grease and oil should be cleaned by using Sur-Prep I. Rust must be removed by hand sanding vigorously or by conscientious power tool cleaning. Remove loose paint by scraping. Feather sand rough edges to insure a smooth finish coat. Glossy surfaces must be dulled by lightly sanding. Remove sanding dust before paint application. Any exposed substrate should be spot primed with the appropriate primer. 





Application: 






Stir paint thoroughly with a circular, listing motion to assure even pigment dispersion. Containing ceramic microspheres. 
Roller – Use a short nap enameling cover. Brush – Use a polyester or nylon filament brush. 
Spray – May be sprayed using conventional or airless equipment.
Can be thinned with clean water, up to 20% for spraying.
For best results, use quality applicator tools. Do not sacrifice good results by using inexpensive tools. Apply only when surface and air temperatures are between 50°F and 90°F. 




NOTE: Formulated without mercury or lead. 



Rev. 06/2008 





Resin Type: 





100% Acrylic 




Solids: 



Volume – 37.0% 





Weight Per Gallon: 






10.77 lbs. 




Viscosity: 





90 – 100 (Krebs Units) 




Flash Point: 





200°F or over (TT-P-141, Method 4293) 




Specular Gloss: 



25 – 35% @ 60° 





Light Reflectance: 






95% (White or lightest colors) 




Recommended Film Thickness: 



Wet – 3.0 to 4.0 mils Dry – 1.0 to 1.5 mils 





VOC – VOS Statement: 






This product contains 150 grams of VOC/VOS per liter of coating (1.25 lbs. per gallon) 




Cautions: 





CAUTION!
Do not take internally. Close container after each use. 
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

I have not tried Aura through hvlp but have sprayed a lot of interior trim. For doors standing up I found a FF tip to be best, no runs, but more passes needed. Now I spray them horizontal and lay it on with a 415. Works really well and levels great lying flat! Now I pretty much use a 315 for trim, and 415 for doors. You have to be careful because it will run if loaded too heavy. Dries so fast between coats though.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Hey RH and all
Found a page on the BM website regarding spraying exterior aura. Haven't found one yet one spraying interior aura, but the exterior specifically says they don't recommend using an hvlp 
20Repository/554001&propertyId=BEA Repository/554001/document_file_en_US

I tried the semi gloss on a couple doors, tough to atomize. I shoulda listened to Scott and got an AAA instead of the hvlp. Oh well. The hvlp is a lot easier to carry around and cleanup.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Damon T said:


> Hey RH and all
> Found a page on the BM website regarding spraying exterior aura. Haven't found one yet one spraying interior aura, but the exterior specifically says they don't recommend using an hvlp
> 20Repository/554001&propertyId=BEA%20Repository/554001/document_file_en_US
> 
> I tried the semi gloss on a couple doors, tough to atomize. I shoulda listened to Scott and got an AAA instead of the hvlp. Oh well. The hvlp is a lot easier to carry around and cleanup.


Thought of using a gravity fed fine finish sprayer? Check out the ED655 plus by Titan. They work great for spray latex through fine finish tips & regular tips. Can shoot as little as quart (not very long though, lol). No thinning of products are required.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> Thought of using a gravity fed fine finish sprayer? Check out the ED655 plus by Titan. They work great for spray latex through fine finish tips & regular tips. Can shoot as little as quart (not very long though, lol). No thinning of products are required.


That's just an airless sprayer. nothing special about it other than the bucket.

http://www.titantool.com/portal/us_ed655_pluss_en_titantool.html


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Looks lilke it might even be heavier than a 440. Not a bad way to go for small jobs. Still trying to get my hvlp to do as nice a job as airless for acrylic jobs. Just finished a job where I shot one door with hvlp and ppg breakthrough, the other 48 with the airless. Airless looked better. I think the little Graco Tradeworks 150 that JP has posted about is a great solution for small jobs. I think he even talked about shooting out of a quart can, since it's only got 25' of hose. 
Gonna shoot a bunch of Cabinet Coat this week with the hvlp. Probably move up to the #5 needle setup instead of the #4 I've been using. Maybe that's why I haven't been as happy with the results yet?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Looks lilke it might even be heavier than a 440. Not a bad way to go for small jobs. Still trying to get my hvlp to do as nice a job as airless for acrylic jobs. Just finished a job where I shot one door with hvlp and ppg breakthrough, the other 48 with the airless. Airless looked better. I think the little Graco Tradeworks 150 that JP has posted about is a great solution for small jobs. I think he even talked about shooting out of a quart can, since it's only got 25' of hose.
> Gonna shoot a bunch of Cabinet Coat this week with the hvlp. Probably move up to the #5 needle setup instead of the #4 I've been using. Maybe that's why I haven't been as happy with the results yet?


Please provide some feedback. I'm temporarily off spraying for awhile but would like to know how your tests go.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

How's that breakthrough for spraying ? 

Specing a job , for breakthrough , bad painters 
Prior left bad brushes strokes, just all around bad painting . 

I generally spray through , a 440 
Ff tips 310 or smaller .


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

HVLP'S are crap for spraying acrylics. I have 3K worth of HVLP stuff sitting worthlessly in my garage.

it's even worse for production.

Buy a AAA rig if you want quality finishes for wb's.

That said, I've got a 3 stage. maybe the 6 stage units work. i have no idea but don't plan on spending the money to find out.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> How's that breakthrough for spraying ?
> 
> Specing a job , for breakthrough , bad painters
> Prior left bad brushes strokes, just all around bad painting .
> ...


The breakthrough was awesome with a 4-10 on doors. I'm sure a 3-10 would be good for general trim. Best to do a light coat, let it dry, and then give a more full coat. Custom Brush had some really good feedback on using it.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

researchhound said:


> Please provide some feedback. I'm temporarily off spraying for awhile but would like to know how your tests go.


Will do. I'm determine to get this dialed in!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Had a chance to shoot out some Cabinet Coat today with the hvlp. Worked out well. I used the #5 setup on the Titan gun ( edge I think, their new one). Had the turbine on both low and high, 4 and 6 stage. Would fill the cup up mostly full and add about 1-2 ounces water, which if I'm doing my math right is about 3-5% (30 ounces paint to 2 ounces water would be 6.7%. 
The 6 stage did help atomize the paint better than the 4 stage, though the 4 stage worked well too, just slower, and not as wide a fan I think. Changing between window trim and wainscoting it was nice to be able to change the fan as needed. Will try to post a very amateurish video later. 
By the time we were done masking I was questioning why we even bothered to spray, (isn't that usually the case?!) but at least it went well and the 2nd coat where needed will go quickly.


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## servais1 (Oct 12, 2012)

Try Rustscat by Coronado(Benjamin Mooore) or the Advance waterborne Alkyd.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Thanks. I'm looking forward to spraying advance soon. Love the way it brushes.


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## jimmyoverspray (Feb 3, 2012)

I've used this product several times with great results. The only thing about BM is you can't hit it twice in a day you need to wait about 8-12hrs before recoating them. If you don't wait it will run like a marathon.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Damon T said:


> Thanks. I'm looking forward to spraying advance soon. Love the way it brushes.


On this note... Have you ever brushed breakthrough? I recently brushed done old 60's cabinets with awesome results. It takes good technique thou... So was curious what you might think here...


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

jimmyoverspray said:


> I've used this product several times with great results. The only thing about BM is you can't hit it twice in a day you need to wait about 8-12hrs before recoating them. If you don't wait it will run like a marathon.


With Breakthrough you can spray again within 2hrs under the correct conditions. I like this factor. If you need to sand though, I recommend waiting 24hrs... Something to consider.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Just finished a job with a wall of big doors and windows with breakthrough. Used the #5 setup on my Titan 115. Thinned a little, maybe 5%. I got some orange peel on the last coat, but I think that's because I had cranked the heat prior to shooting, and it was too warm, so setup too quickly. We brushed the edges of the doors and jambs, and my guy really liked it. I didn't have a chance to brush any, but it looked really good. He liked that it could be recoated so quickly. 
Have a whole house interior coming up this week. Think I'm finally going to shoot the advance. Probably gonna practice tomorrow in the garage...no rest for the weary!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I think this is the defacto hvlp thread now. 
My local Titan rep came out to my job site today to help out with my Titan 115 and the transfer pump that came with it. It was really helpful to have someone go over all the ins and outs of the transfer pump. We actually only shot water through the pump, as I didn't have enough stuff ready to justify filling up the material hose with paint. 
He did state that he thought a 5 stage was the minimum turbine to both power the transfer pump and to successfully atomize acrylic finishes. He also suggested thinning materials to between 18-23 seconds in a viscosity cup. I'm assuming he means the cup Titan sells, as I know there are a few viscosity cups, #2 zahn, #4 ford cup etc. I don't know if those are the correct names / numbers, but just to illustrate there's more than one viscosity cup spec


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> I think this is the defacto hvlp thread now.
> My local Titan rep came out to my job site today to help out with my Titan 115 and the transfer pump that came with it. It was really helpful to have someone go over all the ins and outs of the transfer pump. We actually only shot water through the pump, as I didn't have enough stuff ready to justify filling up the material hose with paint.
> He did state that he thought a 5 stage was the minimum turbine to both power the transfer pump and to successfully atomize acrylic finishes. He also suggested thinning materials to between 18-23 seconds in a viscosity cup. I'm assuming he means the cup Titan sells, as I know there are a few viscosity cups, #2 zahn, #4 ford cup etc. I don't know if those are the correct names / numbers, but just to illustrate there's more than one viscosity cup spec


Damon,
Was this with Advance, Breakthrough, or both?


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

I hate all this threads without pics. It's like hearing about the painter girls thread.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I hate all this threads without pics. It's like hearing about the painter girls thread.


Edgar, 

I agree. Some photos shot across the surfaces and into light would be nice to see and much appreciated.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I hear ya! Is so hard to get decent pics with an iPhone, and I don't have another camera yet. Seems like I need a bank of big lights like a pro photographer to get decent lighting. Usually the light is coming in from outside, and so my pics end up looking dark. I have lots of pics of masking off getting ready to spray, and then dark pics of doors and windows! Lame!
Halogen lights often end up throwing lots of weird shadows, especially with the little bars in front of them. Maybe I need to do a search on getting good job site photos!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> I hear ya! Is so hard to get decent pics with an iPhone, and I don't have another camera yet. Seems like I need a bank of big lights like a pro photographer to get decent lighting. Usually the light is coming in from outside, and so my pics end up looking dark. I have lots of pics of masking off getting ready to spray, and then dark pics of doors and windows! Lame!
> Halogen lights often end up throwing lots of weird shadows, especially with the little bars in front of them. Maybe I need to do a search on getting good job site photos!


I'm sure you could find a few usable ones on some of the websites posted here. :whistling2:


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

My attempt at taking a picture of Advance satin, sprayed two coats about an hour or so apart, using 6 stage hvlp #5 needle and thinned about 10% (just a guess on thinking, not too much).


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for updating us on your progress in this area Damon. Looks great!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Thanks RH! It's definitely getting easier with lots of practice.


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