# Too cold for exterior paint?



## Deco (Feb 28, 2008)

Hello all,

Not that I don't know the answer on this one but I'm going to ask anyway...
We are located in NJ. Whether now in low 30's, nights in 20's. 
Have customer in middle of residential addition that is asking to have
soffets and facia boards primed before gutters get installed. I have already told them that it is too cold and I would not be comfortable
nor warranty any work that was done outside if they insisted on getting
it done.
We primarily do residential interior re-paints so I'm not aware if there
might be any priming products that could be used at these
temperatures.

Thanks for any info you may offer.
Mark


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## y.painting (Jul 19, 2009)

Deco said:


> Not that I don't know the answer on this one


You should be all set then...:whistling2:


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

Why put yourself in an uncomfortable situation? Even using low temp exterior products there is no way I'm going to put my company's reputation and risk a possible scrape n repaint on the line simply because I have an impatient customer. 

We stop exterior work when nights are expected to get below freezing. If they cant wait until warmer weather comes, then they can hire a handyman who will probably slobber behr all over their shingles and driveway anyhow. 

Explain to them why painting in below freezing temps is bad and if they are reasonable, they will understand. Stick to your guns or you man regret it later. Good luck!


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Here we usually have a 3 to 4 hour window in the higher elevations, the lower I can paint 8 hours. I will be starting on a ranch job next week, it's in a higher elevation. Ext semi transparent.


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I recently did an outside job;stained a deck where it was around 5c. It was a contractor friend of mine so he knew it was to cold to pass the specs of the paint. I'm going to coat it next year. Maybe if it needs it?

-Is it the temp of the surface or the general temp outside
-Does any one use a temp machine thingy. were you measure the temp with a beam like a measure tool.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

It is the temp of the surface. Rob uses the temp gun to check interior wall in NC before painting.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Even though a paint is low temp (35F) that doesent mean that it dries the same as warmer temps. Basically a good rule of thumb...every 10 Degrees below 70...double the dry time. So if a paint says 2 hours on the can....at 60F thats gonna be around 4 hours. Go from there.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

You also have to worry about touch up. If you paint when it is cold and touch up when it is warm, it will not match.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

You can also think about alkyd based paint if available.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

bikerboy said:


> You can also think about alkyd based paint if available.


Yeah, but if drying was a concern with latex.......that oil will be sticky till spring


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Add japan driers. We've done it for years and never had a problem. Plus most of todays alkyds already dry faster.


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## KLaw (May 8, 2009)

Perfect timing for this thread. I haven't talked to a SW rep yet. But, we just got a call Saturday to quote painting a school's name on the exterior of the building. The schools sets back a ways from the road and they want some large identifiable lettering at the top of the exterior building. A lil different then the OP but anybody got some opinions? Thanks.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Japan driers as well as Naptha and Alcohol can affect the paint performance. They can be helpful, but I try and not use them personally. 

Most of the "new" alkyds tend to dry slower from what i've seen, from the lack of thinners ( voc's) in them. Which is basically what you're adding with the driers.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

So, do you not warranty paints if thinners or japan driers are added? 

Could swear I've seen instructions that state the use of thinners is o.k.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Most paint manufacturers don't like anything to be added to their products. Although we all know that sometimes water or thinner is needed to get the proper flow. Driers and extenders are usually frowned upon ( understandably) by manufacturers unless it is their specific brand being used ( properly ). Overusing driers can make the film brittle....overusing extenders can make the film soft.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Uh.....was that the answer to the question? 

And I am not trying to be difficult. Many if not all of the alkyds I've used has a recommended max amount of reducer that can be added. 

As a paint distributor you have products to sell. 

As a paint applier, I've got a business to run and a family to feed. 

(These two goals are dependant on each other, not diametrically opposed.)

So, how about recommending a solution to the OP's problem?


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

*Deco, I'd use this;*

*Fres~Coat Troubleshooter® Fast Drying Alkyd Primer*








This unique exterior primer provides superior performances as a base coat for all latex and oil base house paint. It is formulated for maximum breathability and resists tannin and sugar bleed staining from most exterior woods including pressboard siding and rust stains from nail heads. It dries in 4-6 hours for quick re-coat. 
​


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Dealer locator.


http://www.californiapaints.com/DealerLocator.html


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## KLaw (May 8, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Most paint manufacturers don't like anything to be added to their products. Although we all know that sometimes water or thinner is needed to get the proper flow. Driers and extenders are usually frowned upon ( understandably) by manufacturers unless it is their specific brand being used ( properly ). Overusing driers can make the film brittle....overusing extenders can make the film soft.


I am curious as well. Per BB's question, "do you not warranty paints if thinners or japan driers are added?" Is it warrantied or not? Thanks.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Even though a paint is low temp (35F) that doesent mean that it dries the same as warmer temps. Basically a good rule of thumb...every 10 Degrees below 70...double the dry time. So if a paint says 2 hours on the can....at 60F thats gonna be around 4 hours. Go from there.


I thought that was an answer.

But to be blunt.

No, do not do it, no manufacturer will back something applied improperly. It's below the application temperature....any warranty from the manufacturer will be void, call them and ask. I understand that you need the work, I need to sell paint too. BUT If someone wants to buy exterior paint, I'll advise them that its not a good idea, its too cold, and if it fails, its not my problem. 

There is no loophole around it, and I know someones waiting for somebody to point it out. " Like, well it got up to 36F today for 20 minutes so I painted and now the paint has failed....I did it at the right temperature and all, the manufacturer is trying to screw me " *** waits for new thread to start ***


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

fresh coat said:


> I am curious as well. Per BB's question, "do you not warranty paints if thinners or japan driers are added?" Is it warrantied or not? Thanks.


Im not the manufacturer, just a dealer so I cant speak for them, just myself. My best answer, if its not recommended on the can....they probably wont cover it. Call and ask.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Im not the manufacturer, just a dealer so I cant speak for them, just myself. My best answer, if its not recommended on the can....they probably wont cover it. Call and ask.











That's one reason why I don't add that stuff, if its not recommended in the PDS I don't do it. Because i want my supplier to pay for a failure if one occurs and that would be a loop hole for them to get out of it. IMO


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

I would stick to your guns. Tell them Jason on PT said it is not the right thing to do. Once you tell them what I said they will understand and receive you with open arms in the spring time.:jester:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

LOSTinDETAILS said:


> I would stick to your guns. Tell them Jason on PT said it is not the right thing to do. Once you tell them what I said they will understand and receive you with open arms in the spring time.:jester:


It's raining chit


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Deco:

They are right. The manufacturer probably says not to do it. I can only tell you that we used to do the exteriors of over 300 brick rentals all owned by the same company. They all wound up being done about every 3-4 years. (my fathers business then). Never had a cold related failure.


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

ewingpainting.net said:


> It's raining chit


At least it doesn't stink!


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Dont get sucked in to the whole behind the gutter deal! I had a gutter guy rip off all the gutters on a job three weeks before we could start and all i heard about from the customer was gutters gutters gutters! Its not your problem bro,see um in may!


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## capitalcity painting (Apr 28, 2008)

If your weather is anything like it is in KY, then you will get some warmer weather coming up. It may be 35 today but 2 weeks from now it could get up to 55. Wait for the warm week that is bound to happen. Also they can wait on gutters. Gutters are not completely necessary right away. On top of all that I would definitely not use oil base in that type of weather. You want something that is going to dry quicker without additives use Duration or something similar. Oil base outside really just doesnt make any sense to me.


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## clammer (Feb 13, 2009)

I'm sorry exterior painting season is over.If you would like a contract for spring I can put you first on my list


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