# Tongue and Groove knotty pine porch ceilling



## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

What do you guys think for a Tongue and Groove knotty pine porch ceiling in New England in October.

Spot prime knots with 2 coats of BIN (and there is a lot of them)
1 Full coat of Cover Stain
2 Coats of a low luster latex (probably close to a sky blue)

Would a coat of the BM 094 tinted blue over the Cover Stain be overkill?

Everything will be brushed.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I've done a wash coat with the color on those and it looks pretty spiffy- if some of the wood showing through is ok.
I used Emulsibond + the finish paint- experiment with proportions.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

That seems like overkill. I would think the one coat of bin on knots and an exterior oil primer would be suffecient. If I was than concerned I would just use an oil exterior paint instead of acrylic.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Gonna be a nice ceiling.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

BrushJockey said:


> I've done a wash coat with the color on those and it looks pretty spiffy- if some of the wood showing through is ok.
> I used Emulsibond + the finish paint- experiment with proportions.


I was hoping they would go that route. 

I thought a blue milk paint would look real nice... maybe over a white wash coat.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I did a similar job this past summer except it was about 40 year old cedar instead of pine. One coat of BIN Ultimate and two topcoats of acrylic satin off white. Looked great - not one hint of bleed through. Just make sure the HO is aware the knot holes will still be visible. Some people think painting will make everything just disappear.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Here in the NorthWest, 9 times out of 10 a beautiful ceiling like that would be clear coated, or stained then cleared.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Here in the NorthWest, 9 times out of 10 a beautiful ceiling like that would be clear coated, or stained then cleared.


Yeah - in the job I did I did gently attempt to get them to be sure of their choice to paint it but they were adamant about it. I just wanted them to understand that once something like that is painted you can't undo it. It had already been stained a darker color and they really wanted a brighter room. I could understand their wish to do so and it's their ceiling so...


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

researchhound said:


> they really wanted a brighter room. I could understand their wish to do so and it's their ceiling so...


:yes:

why don't people let the painter decide such things!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I would push for a semi-transparent myself.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> :yes:
> 
> why don't people let the painter decide such things!


I know... annoying ain't it?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> What do you guys think for a Tongue and Groove knotty pine porch ceiling in New England in October.
> 
> Spot prime knots with 2 coats of BIN (and there is a lot of them)
> 1 Full coat of Cover Stain
> ...


I'm not sure how much of a problem the knots bleeding will be. We haven't done any knotty pine in a long time (cedar tends to be used here), but I'd be tempted to do the Cover Stain and see what bleeds through. There might just be just a few that cause problems. Hitting all of the knots with two coats of BIN seems like it might be overkill, not to mention a lot of "hand-up" work. 

How about caulking seams? We've done some beadboard ceilings that had a lot of seams that became unsightly when the ceilings were painted. Caulking them was a major part of the projects.

I think the sky blue will be a nice, very traditional, touch.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

1 coat of 3Lb orange shellac on the knots then BIN .....


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

I think the 094 over the coverstain is overkill. Tint the coverstain to the color of the finish. That is probably the way I would do it if I couldn't talk them into a semi-transparent finish. Keep in mind, even with all that...that you could get some knots burning thru after a while. We used to use the orange shellac rather than the BIIN over knots. It was the standard for a long time, it might be a little better, but the BIN is very effective as well.
As Jacob mentioned, up until a few years ago we probably would have used an oil top coat, but those days are pretty much gone here in NY.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Gough said:


> I'm not sure how much of a problem the knots bleeding will be. We haven't done any knotty pine in a long time (cedar tends to be used here), but I'd be tempted to do the Cover Stain and see what bleeds through. There might just be just a few that cause problems. Hitting all of the knots with two coats of BIN seems like it might be overkill, not to mention a lot of "hand-up" work.
> 
> How about caulking seams? We've done some beadboard ceilings that had a lot of seams that became unsightly when the ceilings were painted. Caulking them was a major part of the projects.
> 
> I think the sky blue will be a nice, very traditional, touch.


On my job I quoted them a price for caulking the grooves. It was going to be *very* expensive. Plus I had to warn them that many seams would likely open back up since it's in the nature of such products to expand and contract. My feeling is if they don't like the grooves or knotholes then just sheet rock over it and be done with it. It's wood for crying out loud.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

researchhound said:


> I did a similar job this past summer except it was about 40 year old cedar instead of pine. One coat of BIN Ultimate and two topcoats of acrylic satin off white. Looked great - not one hint of bleed through. Just make sure the HO is aware the knot holes will still be visible. Some people think painting will make everything just disappear.


I'll second the idea of talking to them about the knotholes. The visibility of them after painting could be a real unpleasant surprise if the clients are unaware. That seems to be one of those situations where different expectations lead to extra work, change orders, and bad feelings all around.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

researchhound said:


> My feeling is if they don't like the grooves or knotholes then just sheet rock over it and be done with it. It's wood for crying out loud.


This:thumbsup:


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

CliffK said:


> I think the 094 over the coverstain is overkill. Tint the coverstain to the color of the finish. That is probably the way I would do it if I couldn't talk them into a semi-transparent finish. Keep in mind, even with all that...that you could get some knots burning thru after a while. We used to use the orange shellac rather than the BIIN over knots. It was the standard for a long time, it might be a little better, but the BIN is very effective as well.
> As Jacob mentioned, up until a few years ago we probably would have used an oil top coat, but those days are pretty much gone here in NY.



yeah, i'm old-fashioned but if it aint broke....:thumbsup:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> What do you guys think for a Tongue and Groove knotty pine porch ceiling in New England in October.
> 
> Spot prime knots with 2 coats of BIN (and there is a lot of them)
> 1 Full coat of Cover Stain
> ...


IMO using Sikkens Cetol Door and Window clear satin would result in a really striking look. Really seems a shame to paint it (there I go again).


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Here in the NorthWest, 9 times out of 10 a beautiful ceiling like that would be clear coated, or stained then cleared.


That's the way I did a small crazy overhang on my house. 2 coats of Minwax Helmsman I had laying around. The area gets virtually no sun and no weather.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

researchhound said:


> Yeah - in the job I did I did gently attempt to get them to be sure of their choice to paint it but they were adamant about it. I just wanted them to understand that once something like that is painted you can't undo it. It had already been stained a darker color and they really wanted a brighter room. I could understand their wish to do so and it's their ceiling so...


That white ceiling looks great.

For this ceiling, the husband just wants a solid and vibrant blue. The wife wanted to experiment with something a little more translucent. 

I will reiterate that once painted there is no going back and remind them that they have a ceiling of beautiful wood.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Gough said:


> I'm not sure how much of a problem the knots bleeding will be. We haven't done any knotty pine in a long time (cedar tends to be used here), but I'd be tempted to do the Cover Stain and see what bleeds through. There might just be just a few that cause problems. Hitting all of the knots with two coats of BIN seems like it might be overkill, not to mention a lot of "hand-up" work.
> 
> How about caulking seams? We've done some beadboard ceilings that had a lot of seams that became unsightly when the ceilings were painted. Caulking them was a major part of the projects.
> 
> I think the sky blue will be a nice, very traditional, touch.


Good to know. Just to be sure I will probably spot prime with BIN 1 coat and then a coat of cover stain. This way if any knots bleed through I can show that I didn't take any shortcuts. The ceiling will look good. I will just have to let them know that a few knots may still bleed through and any problem knots can be taken care of on an "as needed" basis or in the next paint job.

Caulking the seems... now your scaring me. I hate caulking that stuff. Always afraid it will crack and look worse. I guess I will caulk it if I have to. Didn't really look at it with that critical an eye.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

researchhound said:


> On my job I quoted them a price for caulking the grooves. It was going to be *very* expensive. Plus I had to warn them that many seams would likely open back up since it's in the nature of such products to expand and contract. My feeling is if they don't like the grooves or knotholes then just sheet rock over it and be done with it. It's wood for crying out loud.



Amen! it's the nature of the thing. My old boss use to hate it when I told him that but it so true.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Just something to consider - the trouble with spot priming tongue and groove is that there can be nasty spots right at the edges which you may not even be aware of. You may not see them but bleed through can readily occur just the same. That's why I primed that entire cedar job with BIN. I wanted to be absolutely sure of no surprises later. 

Using Cover Stain may be adequate but then again...


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Good to know. Just to be sure I will probably spot prime with BIN 1 coat and then a coat of cover stain. This way if any knots bleed through I can show that I didn't take any shortcuts. The ceiling will look good. I will just have to let them know that a few knots may still bleed through and any problem knots can be taken care of on an "as needed" basis or in the next paint job.
> 
> Caulking the seems... now your scaring me. I hate caulking that stuff. Always afraid it will crack and look worse. I guess I will caulk it if I have to. Didn't really look at it with that critical an eye.


Sorry, didn't mean to scare you. Caulking overhead is certainly a drag, and there is always the concern about cracking. I only brought it up because some clients don't seem to be aware how the natural wood grain can keep you from seeing the cracks and surface flaws of the wood. After painting, those can really draw the eye and make some clients crazy.

Don't ask me how I know this....


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

From my experiences here lately 2 spot primes of Bin over knotty pine doesnt look fine.I have had to put on 3 to keep it from bleedthrough,followed by stainblocking primer.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

I did a full basement with 8' ceilings not long ago that was all tongue and groove pine. Took a piece of scrap that had a knot in it so the HO could see what the finished wood would look like.

Anyway, I brushed all the knots with Bullseye clear shellac, brushed on a coat of Coverstain, and finished with 2 coats of Cashmere low-lustre. Using a sprayer on the job wasn't an option, so it was all done by rolling and back-brushing.

I think I used a quart and a half of shellac with some cheap throw-away 3" brushes and a box of nitrate gloves wearing an old long-sleeve tshirt and a good respirator. The nice thing about the brushing of it was it did help to fill in the knots somewhat.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Wolfgang said:


> I did a full basement with 8' ceilings not long ago that was all tongue and groove pine. Took a piece of scrap that had a knot in it so the HO could see what the finished wood would look like.
> 
> Anyway, I brushed all the knots with Bullseye clear shellac, brushed on a coat of Coverstain, and finished with 2 coats of Cashmere low-lustre. Using a sprayer on the job wasn't an option, so it was all done by rolling and back-brushing.
> 
> I think I used a quart and a half of shellac with some cheap throw-away 3" brushes and a box of nitrate gloves wearing an old long-sleeve tshirt and a good respirator. The nice thing about the brushing of it was it did help to fill in the knots somewhat.


the 3lb orange shellac will seal pretty much anything - no surprises later. I've had knots - esp white pine knots bleed thru BIN within an hour. :yes:


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Hopefully this is the stuff.. ? not "de-waxed" but I guess that doesn't matter.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Hopefully this is the stuff.. ? not "de-waxed" but I guess that doesn't matter.


I'm not sure if Zinsser puts dates on their other products like they do SealCoat. The paint stores around here don't sell much shellac, so I'm suspicious of how long it's been sitting around. If we can find a fresh date on the cans of SealCoat, we'll use that for washcoats/conditioner, but we generally make the other cuts up from flakes/buttonlac/or seedlac, depending on what we need.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Gough said:


> I'm not sure if Zinsser puts dates on their other products like they do SealCoat. The paint stores around here don't sell much shellac, so I'm suspicious of how long it's been sitting around. If we can find a fresh date on the cans of SealCoat, we'll use that for washcoats/conditioner, but we generally make the other cuts up from flakes/buttonlac/or seedlac, depending on what we need.


making your own from flakes gives you good control over your shellac, just a bit inconvenient. I've never had a problem using the Zinsser 3lb orange. open, stir and apply.:thumbsup:


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Use the clear if at all possible. I've used the amber colored shellac as both a finish and a tint on older trim.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Wolfgang said:


> Use the clear if at all possible. I've used the amber colored shellac as both a finish and a tint on older trim.


Clear just doesn't seal those sappy knots ane etc like orange:no:. A lot of the old ( 100 + year old ) houses around here originally had shellac finished trims.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Scotiadawg said:


> Clear just doesn't seal those sappy knots ane etc like orange:no:. A lot of the old ( 100 + year old ) houses around here originally had shellac finished trims.


Never had a problem with the clear myself. A lot of the houses built into the early sixties in this area still had the shellac finished trim. I met an old painter in the early 80's who said they used to apply the shellac with either cheesecloth or old nylons, (pre-pantyhose for you youngsters). Apparently once they had the proper "cut" in the shellac they could do quite a bit of trim at one time only having to add some alcohol to the open container.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Finished spot-priming 1 coat amber shellac, 1 coat BIN. Put 1 coat Cover Stain on everything. Waiting for the HO to choose their color.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

:thumbsup:atta way to do er !:yes:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I wonder if coverstain with the XIM bleed additive would work? 

Never used the XIM product so I don't know if it would be compatible with anything besides XIM products.

Man, after spot priming twice like that, you could have had about 3-4 coats of coverstain shot up there...

Not to mention the buildup of film on the knots... You might find it could flash through on the topcoat because of the texture and film differential. 

Like I said initially, I would have pushed for a semi-transparent up there (oil). One coat and done!


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> I wonder if coverstain with the XIM bleed additive would work?
> 
> Never used the XIM product so I don't know if it would be compatible with anything besides XIM products.
> 
> ...


Never used the XIM product either.

Never sprayed anything except out of a rattle can or a garden sprayer. But a sprayer would have been a sweet way to apply the coverstain. 

I did put it on heavy.. rolled it with a 1/2" nap then brushed it with an old 4" china bristle. Does look a little rough up there. Thinking maybe I should have brushed the whole thing. I'm hoping that a light pole sand will bring it around. 

Thinking about using BM regal select in something like a low luster. Have never used the regal select before but I was told it had some body and a little build. Now the HO is leaning towards a deep base blue.

That semi-trasparent would have looked real nice.... 1 and done.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Never used the XIM product either.
> 
> Never sprayed anything except out of a rattle can or a garden sprayer. But a sprayer would have been a sweet way to apply the coverstain.
> 
> ...


I guess the good news is that the shadows by the knots won't show as much. 

I tend to get a little (?) obnoxious about it, but I'd sure try to steer the client toward a lighter blue. That's going to make it pretty gloomy inside.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Gough said:


> I guess the good news is that the shadows by the knots won't show as much.
> 
> I tend to get a little (?) obnoxious about it, but I'd sure try to steer the client toward a lighter blue. That's going to make it pretty gloomy inside.


Very gloomy. I'm trying to get then to do a smaller porch ceiling that color first so they can see the error of there ways!


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Never posted any pics of the finished porch ceiling..

Sorry about the cell phone pics.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I love that color. It's pretty common here in New England for T&G Porch ceilings, but it is classy looking! Nice work.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

How wide were those T&G planks? Almost looks like bead board. Great paint job btw.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Here in the NorthWest, 9 times out of 10 a beautiful ceiling like that would be clear coated, or stained then cleared.


Yeah really. Instead of painting they should just hang a pre finished beadboard or something. Shoot it up and be done. Lol. Lot of labor to hang pine like that and only to paying over it.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

I've put stain on stuff like that. It tends to have that wax on it. The stain doesn't soak on to good. Kind of lays on it and slides around alot on application.


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

Man i love wood why do we paint it?


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Those planks are probably around 6" wide. Carpentry work was only ok. 

Ended up being:
1) spot prime knots with amber shellac
2) spot prime knots with bin
3) full coat of zinser cover stain
4) full coat of tinted Ben Moore 094 oil base primer
5) 2 full coats Ben Moore Regal Select satin

all brushed.

Sad part is this will be a callback. The customer said it looks like a million small bugs got stuck to where the knots are. I looked at it from the ground and I thought it was the knots that were bleeding through. Broke my heart. Haven't looked at it close enough yet to figure out what happened.

I painted it all in November with temps between 50 and 60 degrees... Always the warmest part of the day. Oh well so much for trying to do something right.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Lakesidex said:


> Those planks are probably around 6" wide. Carpentry work was only ok.
> 
> Ended up being:
> 1) spot prime knots with amber shellac
> ...


Dang, sorry to hear about the call back.

Dumb q, but why did you spot prime with amber shellac of all things? Why not super blonde or something, p.s. I wouldn't use shellac outside, be to afraid it would pop/crack. 

Bugs? Weird. Oil based stuff can have a slow dry time, maybe try shooting with latex with an accelerator added in?


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Spot primed the knots with shellac and bin because I thought that would stop the knots from bleeding through the best.

Again, I did this ceiling last November. I checked it a week or so later and it looked great.

Here are some pics of the ceiling now. What happened


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

I'm thinking about another quick spot prime with bin where any knots bled through bad. Then rolling with something like a Fresh Start latex stain blocking primer. And then an top coat of some latex satin finish. That's Regal Select satin up there now.

Don't want to brush it all out again and may just try to roll it.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

you are wasting your time if you think bin will hold back those knots. Cover them with brown exterior wood glue and be done with it.


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## wje (Apr 11, 2009)

Sorry buddy, but that's fly sh1t, we see that all the time here in the country.... its harder to seal than knots lol. 

I am guessing they have a ton of flys where they live..


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

the glue will hold back fly and spider crap ...just try it... what do you have to loose buddy


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

the glue thing works for sure. Sometimes shellac just is not enough...


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

So let me get this straight... the knots bled through and even though you couldn't really see it, the areas became tacky like a fly trap and all those insects just stuck there. 

If I just re-prime with a latex primer and then put on a fresh coat of paint, I will probably end up with the same results?

Once I wash down and prep the ceiling It will be hard to even see where the knots are, never mind sealing them with glue.

BTW.. all those dark spots in the pics are insects, not necessarily knots.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

wje said:


> Sorry buddy, but that's fly sh1t, we see that all the time here in the country.... its harder to seal than knots lol.
> 
> I am guessing they have a ton of flys where they live..


Ah.. so what I think you are saying is that the fly sh1T was in the bare wood to begin with and now it's bleeding through the finish coat.... 

If that's the case then what do you recommend kind sir!


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Lakesidex said:


> Those planks are probably around 6" wide. Carpentry work was only ok.
> 
> Ended up being:
> 1) spot prime knots with amber shellac
> ...


I have been following this thread and just wanted to say that I feel for you...I'm no expert on the prepping of tongue and groove, so I have read with interest the suggestions posted here. It seems like you took every precaution and step to ensure that what happened wouldn't happen. Good luck...I know it doesn't do you any good to hear this, but I hope you come up with a solution. Sometimes the best laid plans backfire...


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

If it is fly s*&t it seems like it should not be something that you would be responsible to fix. And, that the HOs will just have to paint the ceiling a different color on which the feces will not show as much like a brown or black. I just painted a ceiling about the same color and it had a lot of black dots all over it, but if I recall they were dead bugs.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Lakesidex said:


> Ah.. so what I think you are saying is that the fly sh1T was in the bare wood to begin with and now it's bleeding through the finish coat....
> 
> If that's the case then what do you recommend kind sir!


That looks like new fly poo. Take a wet rag and see if it wipes off, if it does then its a maintenance issue nothing you can do but advise them to prevent the flies from being there. Install automatic fly spray systems, bug zapper, bait or screen in the porch.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

kdpaint said:


> I love that color. It's pretty common here in New England for T&G Porch ceilings, but it is classy looking! Nice work.


That color is close to haint blue, very prevalent here in the south. Pretty cool stories behind it. :thumbsup:



> The Significance of Haints
> 
> Blue ceilings are popular and have been popular in the South for centuries. “Porch ceilings have always been blue in the South,” says Lori Sawaya, an independent Principal Color Strategist. “People continue to paint their porch ceiling blue because that's what their grandmother did, and that's what her grandmother did.”
> 
> ...


Lots of other regional history behind using blue for porch ceilings. 

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/arc...-techniques/sw-article-pro-thewhysbehind.html


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## bodean614 (May 31, 2011)

I did a house for chris sabo of the Cincinnati reds they painted there t&g blue and said it repelled bugs. 

Just saying. Lol.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

Just had another look at your pics and it sure looks like all those dots are bug crap. There may be knots burning through as well but I can not tell from the pic. Bottom line ...not your problem, tell HO to leave that ceiling light off ! By the amount of shrinkage (gap) between one of the boards it looks like its been awhile since that was painted.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

painterman said:


> By the amount of shrinkage (gap) between one of the boards it looks like its been awhile since that was painted.


It's been only 10 months since the original paint job. I used SW SherMax Elastomeric. I put it on thin and wiped it down good. It was pretty cold when I did it so maybe that affected the caulk a little. 

In a couple of weeks I will really give it a good washing down and see how it looks.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

Lakesidex said:


> It's been only 10 months since the original paint job. I used SW SherMax Elastomeric. I put it on thin and wiped it down good. It was pretty cold when I did it so maybe that affected the caulk a little.
> 
> In a couple of weeks I will really give it a good washing down and see how it looks.


What I see is exactly what I would expect to see. Wood shrinks that is a fact of life. I have installed and painted many ceilings like that and no matter how good you seal things up that wood will win the movement war. Again not your fault. Having said that I have gone back after a good length of time and touched those problem areas up NC. Not sure as trades people way we do this but that is another topic for another day.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

painterman said:


> What I see is exactly what I would expect to see. Wood shrinks that is a fact of life. I have installed and painted many ceilings like that and no matter how good you seal things up that wood will win the movement war. Again not your fault. Having said that I have gone back after a good length of time and touched those problem areas up NC. Not sure as trades people way we do this but that is another topic for another day.


We've found that it's more of a problem these days with lower quality wood products that aren't given time to reach equilibrium MC before installation. A lot of the beadboard/car siding used to be VG material, which moved less with the seasonal changes in humidity. Now, it's a mix and includes a lot of flat-sawn pieces. We use a moisture meter on wood trim before we paint it and the levels in NC are often higher than I'd like them to be. The "gun and run" approach on these projects usually means that there's not time for the material to stabilize and the results are those kinds of crack/gaps. We see the same thing with paneled wood doors.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I agree plantation grown wood has less than 2/3 the growth rings per inch of traditional wood. This means there is a lot of soft areas that will shrink dramatically. Conversely even if they are dry when installed they absorb more moisture form the environment if not pre-finished.

It is very important to check moisture levels.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> I agree plantation grown wood has less than 2/3 the growth rings per inch of traditional wood. This means there is a lot of soft areas that will shrink dramatically. Conversely even if they are dry when installed they absorb more moisture form the environment if not pre-finished.
> 
> It is very important to check moisture levels.


Thanks for the reminder about the plantation-grown material. We've seen some P. radiata trim boards with huge growth rings.

This is just another reason to try to work with knowledgeable, conscientious builders who know both to give the material a chance to reach a stable MC and give the painter a chance to backprime it before they install it.


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