# Coating suggestions



## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

This is a Carrabba's that I have been doing some maintenance painting & cleaning for. They have 4 window frames that are on the side of the bldg and not seen by most of the customers. It looks to me like it had a poly/stain mix garbage on it with additional poly on top. 

Has anyone done a Carrabba's or what do you think was used here? Then the next question is should I sand/prime/paint or strip and stain? The manager asked about a marine coating to replace the failed poly and give it the same look but they really don't want to spend that kind of money. 

I have never applied a stain with a poly for exterior use and as far as I know they are not designed for sun. But, driving through a neighborhood I am working in today I saw two houses with garage doors and one with shutters that are stained with a sealer. What are they using or I guess a better question is _what should I use_?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

My spidey sense are tingling...failed Sikkens. Sodium Hydroxide wash and penetrating oil from here on out.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> My spidey sense are tingling...failed Sikkens.


1st thing I thought as well... tingling!


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I though Minwax gel stain with one coat of a non uv rated poly ..... cheap and fast builder special. Those things always go to the low bidder ...Sikkens is too pricey. Look how thick it's coming off.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> I though Minwax gel stain with one coat of a non uv rated poly ..... cheap and fast builder special. Those things always go to the low bidder ...Sikkens is too pricey. Look how thick it's coming off.


True that, it almost does look cheaper than Sikkens...I havent seen much Minwax exterior enough to know what it looks like when it fails. You may be right. Lets send some film to NACE for analysis.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I am in 100% agreement with NEPS on this one, sickens usually peels in more, smaller pieces where that looks like a polystain with a coat of poly on top. Or possibly just a regular stain (if you look at the first photo, most of the color is still on the wood) with some cheap poly on top. Fortunately that is easy enough to remove.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> I am in 100% agreement with NEPS on this one,
> 
> 
> 
> That's it! ... I quit PaintTalk ....... good bye


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Why NEPS?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> tsunamicontract said:
> 
> 
> > I am in 100% agreement with NEPS on this one,
> ...


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> tsunamicontract said:
> 
> 
> > I am in 100% agreement with NEPS on this one,
> ...


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> NEPS.US said:
> 
> 
> > Don't let the door hit you where the good lord split you.inch:
> ...


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

False alarm, couldnt find one.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Oh, I forgot on a coating suggestion. If they want the wood look I would chem strip it, get that caulk out of there, sand 'er good, stain, and then some spar varnish or marine poly. How is that glass in there? That can cause _major_ problems if not sealed in properly.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> False alarm, couldnt find one.


Hey bro, this simple mind can only handle so much ....


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> Oh, I forgot on a coating suggestion. If they want the wood look I would chem strip it, get that caulk out of there, sand 'er good, stain, and then some spar varnish or marine poly. How is that glass in there? That can cause _major_ problems if not sealed in properly.


I agree


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> I agree


This just in: Hell froze over


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> This just in: Hell froze over


:laughing::laughing::laughing:
Scott, stop having so much fun :whistling2:


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> This just in: Hell froze over


:lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

What next? NEPS, Tsunami and Formulator have a Rustoleum party?


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> This just in: Hell froze over


Verm is the real Geraldo Rivera


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Verm is the real Geraldo Rivera


Dude, seriously, try a new medication or something. You make no sense.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> What next? NEPS, Tsunami and Formulator have a Rustoleum party?


No NEPS spraying a side lite with a spray can! :whistling2:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> No NEPS spraying a side lite with a spray can! :whistling2:


He was the first in the group to recognize the spray pattern of an aerosol on a sidelight... no, I refuse to believe.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Dude, seriously, try a new medication or something. You make no sense.


sorry bro just throwing words out there. Peace my brother


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

You guys are just trying to get me mad ... my therapist told me this would happen again ........_10, 9 , 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 ...... nope still mad 10, 9, 8 ,7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, ....nop still mad ....redrum, redrum ......._


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I think Carter and I are having a fight right now, he wasn't messaged or called me in a while . . .
Did you ever get your paint samples Scott?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Dangit, I have to stop hijacking threads.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

tsunamicontract said:


> I think Carter and I are having a fight right now, he wasn't messaged or called me in a while . . .
> Did you ever get your paint samples Scott?


Carter seems to be very sensitive. I insulted him one day, just joking around and he has not spoken to me since. You are the apple of his eye. He must just be busy Formulating.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Yah, he said he was making some new $120 a can spray paint. I didn't even try to offend him, but he just took something I said in the paint reps thread the wrong way I guess.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

> ...If they want the wood look -


They would be fine with a gloss paint to get close to the color. The widows are on the side. Ideally it should match the front though.




> get that caulk out of there


Are you talking the caulk on the Dryvit?? That will not be going anywhere.



> and then some spar varnish or marine poly


Brand sugesstions anyone? The marine poly I looked at was high dollar, and a quart at a time, and I'm not familiar with "spar varnish" and didn't know a varnish or poly would stand up to the uv.


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## patriotpainter (Jul 31, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> I though Minwax gel stain with one coat of a non uv rated poly ..... cheap and fast builder special. Those things always go to the low bidder ...Sikkens is too pricey. Look how thick it's coming off.


Lowest bidder, definetly. looks like Minwax Polyshades (interior only). That job came with a 2 taillight warranty.


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## patriotpainter (Jul 31, 2008)

Spar Varnish is exterior, polyurethane is almost always interior only. Tell Carraba's to paint it with a low maintenence coating, just strip and sand the snot out of it, exterior oil primer it, top of the line 100% acrylic semi gloss tinted to a "natural wood color". Spar Varnish will need to be redone every 2 years, if this side of carrabas is in direct sunlight all day, redo it every year. Paint it and it could last 5 to 8 years.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

patriotpainter said:


> Spar Varnish is exterior, polyurethane is almost always interior only. Tell Carraba's to paint it with a low maintenence coating, just strip and sand the snot out of it, exterior oil primer it, top of the line 100% acrylic semi gloss tinted to a "natural wood color". Spar Varnish will need to be redone every 2 years, if this side of carrabas is in direct sunlight all day, redo it every year. Paint it and it could last 5 to 8 years.


I gave them that exact option/suggestion. It would be prefered to have them match the front - which is protected under a canopy - so I told them I would try to find an affordable solution that will last. If not they are ok with painting.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

http://www.ewoodfinishing.com/varathane-diamond--exterior-spar-urethane.html

Rustoleum now owns the product in the above Link. Diamond Waterbornes do well in sunlight. You don't have the depth as you would in an oil base, and it doesn't have an amber hue, but it dries quickly and can be recoated in the same day.


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## Dmax Consulting (Jul 22, 2008)

Minwax makes a product called ClearShield. It has the best UV resistance of any clear poly that I have found.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Tonyg said:


> Are you talking the caulk on the Dryvit?? That will not be going anywhere.


if you want to do it right, it better come out. wont add more than half an hour and you need the clear coat to underlap the caulk.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Well, paint it is. They wanted something that would last so I 'll just get a close match with Duration.


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