# Best oil based exterior primer?



## SeaMonster

*Best oil based exterior primer under $20?*

got a house with paint chipping EVERYWHERE! we don't do allot of jobs where we need prime an entire side, but here we have to prime two huge walls. Right now we use zinsser oil exterior and love it but this house is in such bad shape I really want to give them a super quality prep job. What you guys use? Need something that can be sprayed and back-rolled


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## Dunbar Painting

Either Fresh Start from Benjamin Moore, or Sherwin William's slow drying exterior oil based primer. Slower drying results in longer lasting finish as it has a chance to really seal the wood.


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## NCPaint1

Is it chipping to bare wood or between coats? What type of wood is it and what is your prep going to be?


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## Ultimate

Mad Dog, then CS.

Peeling and potential bleed through fixed.


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## TJ Paint

Chipping=peeling?

Pictures help

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## kdpaint

California's Troubleshooter long oil is great.:thumbup: I have 10+ year old jobs on ocean front homes still looking good with that primer.


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## Ultimate

Chipping, peeling, whatever. Scrape it sand it mad dog it cover stain it and sleep well at night. Basics really this should be a non issue.


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## mpminter

I've used both the BM fresh start penetrating oil and the SW exterior oil with good success. I would recommend reducing the SW primer 10% to make it easier to work with. It's pretty thick right out of the can.


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## Workaholic

I go with a slow drying oil primer, most paint stores have them so ask your normal store.


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## TJ Paint

Nobody suggested kills2 yet?!?

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## Workaholic

TJ Paint said:


> Nobody suggested kills2 yet?!?
> 
> Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


OP asked for oil exterior so no kilz2


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## DanielMDollaPainting

I used Muralo exterior linseed oil reinforced oil primer already. It seemed good. Got it at the local hardware store. Anymore all oil primers seem the same to me. I like the fact the Muralo was linseed oil reinforced. It was like 45$ or more a gallon though.


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## vividpainting

I like BM fresh start 100 penetrating oil.


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## SeaMonster

Thanks everyone. 3 votes for BM freshstart. it it's under $20 per gallon well give it a try.


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## TJ Paint

SeaMonster said:


> Thanks everyone. 3 votes for BM freshstart. it it's under $20 per gallon well give it a try.


Lol nope, it's not.

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## plainpainter

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> I used Muralo exterior linseed oil reinforced oil primer already. It seemed good. Got it at the local hardware store. Anymore all oil primers seem the same to me. I like the fact the Muralo was linseed oil reinforced. It was like 45$ or more a gallon though.


 
I've used tons of that primer, X-200 I believe it's called? It's not a long dry primer. But to be honest I haven't seen a difference between long dry and quicker dry oil primers.


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## PatsPainting

Nothing beats a long oil for exterior wood. "my opinion" Here in California I know of two products and they only come in quarts - BM's 100 and behr has a slow oil too that is not bad. BM's quart is close to 20 bucks and Behr is around 12 bucks.

Pat


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## PatsPainting

Also want to add for that old dried out wood, a coat or two of boiled linseed oil will bring a little life back.

Pat


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## SeaMonster

slow drying will always be better than fast drying?? 
What do you guys think about Zinsser? its $18 per gallon and feels hardcore. 

Our prep: house already power washed/removed a ton of loose paint. We r going to run the Milwaukee fiber disk sanders over the entire siding and prime.


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## TJ Paint

I never understood the point of pwashing before sanding myself. You end up with a ton of dust on there. Pwashing never replaced scraping and sanding for me. It never took off more than 30% off wood and if you do it's probably damaging the wood.

Yes there is a difference in primers but if you're looking to save 150 bucks coverstain works ok.
How long have you been painting?

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## StripandCaulk

plainpainter said:


> I've used tons of that primer, X-200 I believe it's called? It's not a long dry primer. But to be honest I haven't seen a difference between long dry and quicker dry oil primers.


x200 is a slow dry. Quote watch it!


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## SeaMonster

TJ Paint said:


> I never understood the point of pwashing before sanding myself. You end up with a ton of dust on there. Pwashing never replaced scraping and sanding for me. It never took off more than 30% off wood and if you do it's probably damaging the wood.
> 
> Yes there is a difference in primers but if you're looking to save 150 bucks coverstain works ok.
> How long have you been painting?
> 
> Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


u r saying you dont power wash at all or wash after sanding? Been painting for awhile, not a supreme expert like you im sure


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## Brian C

I would add a sizable percentage of penetrol to your oil based primer for some additional ahesion to the old surface.


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## TJ Paint

SeaMonster said:


> u r saying you dont power wash at all or wash after sanding? Been painting for awhile, not a supreme expert like you im sure


After sanding. 

I'm not an expert, just been around long enough to know most of the basic wood primers.


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## SeaMonster

TJ Paint said:


> After sanding.
> 
> I'm not an expert, just been around long enough to know most of the basic wood primers.


I just use the couple primers my old boss used but again we do not do houses where too much paint is chipping. This one kind of surprised me.....


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## Steve Richards

I used to like to power wash...take a day off to fish, and then sand.

Then I'd take my leaf blower and blow the dust all over the city.

That was before RRP.

(Those where the days my friend)


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## TJ Paint

I do find it funny that your thread title was "best oil based ext primer", when after all the suggestions you then mention you actually want something under 20 bucks. 

For that price range, then yes, coverstain would be the best fit. It's good but in my experience, it doesn't perform as well as long oil.


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## Steve Richards

Coverstain rulz

I used it today...and I have specs all over my forearms to prove it.

(takes about 3 showers to wear off)

That's quality!


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## TJ Paint

Steve Richards said:


> Coverstain rulz
> 
> I used it today...and I have specs all over my forearms to prove it.
> 
> (takes about 3 showers to wear off)
> 
> That's quality!


Coverstain days are the best because I get to rub myself all over with baby oil.

Baby oil is actually a great way to get it off...
And you can always get help with the process.


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## TheRogueBristle

Definite contradiction when you say you want to go the extra mile and use good primer, but also want to pay less than $20/gal for it. You want to spring for something, go for the Fresh Start.


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## mpminter

If you're trying to stay under $20/gal why not just slather it with whatever junk latex HD is selling and call it a day? If you're interested in quality products then I would stick with the BM, SW, or California products that have been mentioned.


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## SeaMonster

Thank you all for your help. Have a great weekend


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## mudbone

mpminter said:


> If you're trying to stay under $20/gal why not just slather it with whatever junk latex HD is selling and call it a day? If you're interested in quality products then I would stick with the BM, SW, or California products that have been mentioned.


 Here now get a grip!:notworthy:


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## alan

SeaMonster said:


> got a house with paint chipping EVERYWHERE! we don't do allot of jobs where we need prime an entire side, but here we have to prime two huge walls. Right now we use zinsser oil exterior and love it but this house is in such bad shape I really want to give them a super quality prep job. What you guys use? Need something that can be sprayed and back-rolled


I actually like to mix fresh start oil with coverstain it seems to have a nicer flow with a nice body. sometimes ill add a little japan drier so its not tacky 24hrs later


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## Ultimate

Can someone please explain why Coverstain would be considered 'cheap' versus fresh start? Not saying inexpensive here, but cheap. As in how I am using an inferior product. 

I allowed Sherwin Williams to talk me into an in house all purpose primer once instead of Cover Stain. Cost way more. And failed. I had to scrape doors back to bare surface and use Cover Stain. That was strike one against SW for me. In any event, point is, it's terribly difficult to teach an old dog new tricks especially when the old ones are dependable. If ..... Edit...... Let's hope they don't but still. It works. EVERY time for every tough job I give it.


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## Steve Richards

I don't remember when I started using coverstain..but I'd remember when/if I ever had a problem with (or because) it.
(which I don't)

Fresh Start is ok too... but you can't get it just anyplace.
Coverstain is carried pretty much anywhere that sells paint..far as I know.

Note: I'm NOT in love with it!
I do keep a gallon of it (and drywall primer) in the truck though.


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## TJ Paint

We should put a "shh" on this deal, don't want the high ups at zinnser/rustoleum seeing this.

Fatherandson, what was the sw primer you used?

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## Ultimate

TJ Paint said:


> We should put a "shh" on this deal, don't want the high ups at zinnser/rustoleum seeing this.
> 
> Fatherandson, what was the sw primer you used?
> 
> Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


I'll delete that sentence. 

I think it was All Purpose Primer. Sold me on it because I said CS was my all purpose and that simplified my purchasing decisions. Worked wherever I used it. Manager said it was a water based alternative all purpose good to go on metal doors even. Don't know what I was thinking. Little over a year ago.


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## TJ Paint

Sorry to hear they talked you into that one...

They talked me into something like that once too. 

For all purpose, cs is the sht. 

Just saying for wood ext long oil will probably perform a little better.

Although I must admit, I have used cs more than long oil. For one thing it takes a long time to dry, and where I was based for over 10yrs we had over 60% humidity most of the painting season. Sometimes it took a week for this stuff to dry.

Sure I could have mixed some dryers in it but then to me, that would counter act against the benefits of using it in the first place.

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## Steve Richards

TJ Paint said:


> Sorry to hear they talked you into that one...
> 
> They talked me into something like that once too.
> 
> For all purpose, cs is the sht.
> 
> Just saying for wood ext long oil will probably perform a little better.
> 
> Although I must admit, I have used cs more than long oil. For one thing it takes a long time to dry, and where I was based for over 10yrs we had over 60% humidity most of the painting season. Sometimes it took a week for this stuff to dry.
> 
> Sure I could have mixed some dryers in it but then to me, that would counter act against the benefits of using it in the first place.


You are wise indeed, TJ...and you're just a kid!

I had the same problem on a house in the mountains here a few years ago. Last day...I go to paint the last side..still tacky!
..so back to my crappy little motel room, and my bottle of whisky.
(so the day wasn't completely wasted)


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## plainpainter

I was painting a house during the whole month of November back in '05 and was using Pratt and Lambert's exterior oil primer. One side took 2 weeks to flash out before I could paint it - had me nervous as heck. The very last day I was painting - I was on the southern exposure side getting the last rays of the sun for the day and it was Dec. 1. Man was I nervous, despite using their 35 degree paint. But still, needed at least 4 hours for it to cure. 7 years later and that finish is still flawless.


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## SeaMonster

so i'll just stick with coverstain


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## Ultimate

I love what you bring here Steve Richards.


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## Steve Richards

FatherandSonPainting said:


> I love what you bring here Steve Richards.


*blushing*

*putting F&S on my "will say anything to get one of my (highly coveted) thanks" list*


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## plainpainter

I've never understood the hero worship of Coverstain - it's a decent middle of the road oil quick dry primer. But so what?


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## Steve Richards

Coverstain isn't my hero.

I like it.

I like my roller heads too.

Is lambswool my hero? no.


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## Steve Richards

Steve Richards said:


> I had the same problem on a house in the mountains here a few years ago.


Speaking of that job...
I'd grilled some chicken one Sunday, and took leftovers up with me that week.
Sitting on the bed, looking out the door, using the top of my cooler as a table...eating cold chicken (and sipping whisky) , suddenly I felt more like I loser than I ever had in my whole life to that point.

The next night I threw the rest of the chicken away, and went to the town diner from then on.

Here's the view I had for about a month.
You might not be able to make it out..but the motel sign still proudly announces "COLOR TV" in neon letters.


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## Steve Richards

Sorry for the derail Sea Monster..

If you report that post, I'm sure the mods will delete it, and that's ok w/me.


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## TJ Paint

plainpainter said:


> I've never understood the hero worship of Coverstain - it's a decent middle of the road oil quick dry primer. But so what?


Name a better value than cs. Name a primer that pulls as much weight as it does for the price....

It gives and gives, and all it asks of you is to breath smart while around it. 

It climbed mordor and rid all of us of the huge burden of overpriced and underperforming primers...

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## SeaMonster

I got my answer like 20 posts ago  stick with Zinsser CS which I've been using all along and I'm golden. Thank you


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## Steve Richards

SeaMonster said:


> I got my answer like 20 posts ago


Of course you did.

Pretty much any question here gets a definitive answer pretty quick, then sometimes the thread will live on.. meander, and then become about something else altogether.

Congrats on your awesome thread.

(That I hope I didn't kill)


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## SeaMonster

I dont see any problems Steve 
I might post progress photos of this house....never had a house with this much peeling paint. My guy went overboard with washing. 9 hours with no breaks and nearly removed 80% of the loose paint. all we gotta do now is run the fiber disk sanders over each board once and we should be good.


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## Steve Richards

Post 'em up.
9 hours is a hellofa long time to power wash a house. I don't think I've ever run mine for 1/2 that long on any one job.

(pressurepros is probably thinking "pffffft!")


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## caulktheline

9 hours?! Ya'll won the Taj Mahal bid eh?


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## plainpainter

8-9 hours was typical of me to wash a house back before rrp. Heck I would go over whole entire sides twice - always seemed like the first time would get some paint off - but the saturation of water would make it ideal for a second pass and even more paint would come off. I don't know if it shortened prep time once scraping and sanding started, and I think it created even more work. But it sure did make for a much more lasting job. Have many century old homes with 7+ years with not one square inch of peeling. Alas, doesn't seem like anyone cared in the end or really believed what I could do, or even when I recently showed people these homes as proof - didn't seem really impressed....doesn't a paint job last 10 years anyways, they would say. On a newly sided home it can, but one that has had a century of paint film buildup and aligatoring from decades of old crusty lead paint, with decades of latex on top of it...not really.


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## Hanger in VT

FatherandSonPainting said:


> Chipping, peeling, whatever. Scrape it sand it mad dog it *cover stain* it and sleep well at night. Basics really this should be a non issue.


Isn't Cover Stain oil based? I could be wrong, but I believe the manufacturer states that only acrylics can be applied over Mad Dog Primer. Recently they began putting an additional sticker on the lid stating that only acrylic *satin or semigloss* can be applied over Mad Dog. No flat paint! I was halfway through a job, and ended up having to go back and paint over the primer with satin prior to applying the flat finish the homeowner had selected. A real PITA.


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## Ultimate

Hanger in VT said:


> Isn't Cover Stain oil based? I could be wrong, but I believe the manufacturer states that only acrylics can be applied over Mad Dog Primer. Recently they began putting an additional sticker on the lid stating that only acrylic satin or semigloss can be applied over Mad Dog. No flat paint! I was halfway through a job, and ended up having to go back and paint over the primer with satin prior to applying the flat finish the homeowner had selected. A real PITA.


You hang paper and pay more attention than most!!! It's not a contract with order of events I listed up there. Good eye though. MDP does recommend sealing stains such as water or nicotine or knotholes prior to application of MDP. Both items are an issue potentially. Right? 

My lack of attention to detail with the writing of the order of events reflects my blah with the whole thing. I've been doing this too long I suppose some days it's harder to be motivated than others. You are correct although, primer for stains prior to MDP is recommended. CS is my go to for that.


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## caulktheline

plainpainter said:


> 8-9 hours was typical of me to wash a house back before rrp. Heck I would go over whole entire sides twice - always seemed like the first time would get some paint off - but the saturation of water would make it ideal for a second pass and even more paint would come off. I don't know if it shortened prep time once scraping and sanding started, and I think it created even more work. But it sure did make for a much more lasting job. Have many century old homes with 7+ years with not one square inch of peeling. Alas, doesn't seem like anyone cared in the end or really believed what I could do, or even when I recently showed people these homes as proof - didn't seem really impressed....doesn't a paint job last 10 years anyways, they would say. On a newly sided home it can, but one that has had a century of paint film buildup and aligatoring from decades of old crusty lead paint, with decades of latex on top of it...not really.


Well at least you aren't painting over mildew with that approach. Special place in hell for those folks.


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