# XIM Peel Bond



## Phillip Benson (Mar 28, 2011)

Whats the word on this stuff? I have been doing residential repaints for about three years and I am just now hearing about it. In the bay area we have a lot of old victorian homes which come with old cracking, flaking paint. Why has my rep been tellin me to prime, spackle, prime, and top coat these trouble areas if I could have just been applying this peel bond and topcoating the same day? From what I see online it is dirt cheap $10 - $15. Am I missing something or is this stuff the golden ticket to cheap effective prep?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I am ordering some for our 180 year old farm house. And this will be the lat paint job it will get! Our new house is all vinyl!

As far a I am concerned it is insurance, not a replacement for proper prep. You would still have to scrape peeling paint. I guess it it thick enough to smooth out the final finish. When I am doing our farm house, I don't have to worry about RRP up here:whistling2:.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

Peel Bond is great stuff- after it dries down, it's like having a flexible membrane that seals in all trouble areas. But yes, you still need to scrape, sand quickly, and wash thoroughly. It works best with a thick nap to help fill low spots. My mom's house was done with it and turned out great. The previous finish was alligatored latex over oil. After 2 coats of Duration, all those irritating little cracks were sealed in for good. I can't really say how it holds up over a long period, but so far it's doing great. 

FYI- it runs around $30/gallon


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

I USE THIS PRODUCT ON T 111 AND SOMETIMES ON THE WEST ON SOUTH SIDE OF A HOUSE,ITS LIKE A ELMERS GLUE,I TO HAVE HAD SUCSESS WITH IT,I LIKE TO ADD A LITTLE COLOR TO IT BEFORE APPLYING AS IT IS AND GOES ON AND DRIES CLEAR THAT WAY YOU CAN SEE IT BETTER AND IT IS NOT THE CHEAPEST.:thumbup:


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## Phillip Benson (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback. For the record, I didn't intend on skipping the scraping and sanding. When you get it tinted does it still dry clear?


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

You don't need to tint it. Add a gallon of the material that you will be using for the top coat and that will tint it. Good stuff, but the costs will add up.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

(BILLY< STOP SCREAMING!)

Phil- you're price is way off. At least double that, and figure small sq' for coverage. 
And there is another product by almost the same name- Peel Stop by Zinsser- it is thin and penetrating. It has it's use also. Might be the one that you got that price from. 

I have found all sorts of uses for peel bond, but it does not fill alot, it just smooths the edges.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I've had failure with XIM - paint store rep told me that XIM has gone severely downhill the past few years.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Peel bond is a great product, but not a miracle cure for problem areas. Paint cannot fix moisture related problems or stop old paint from failing. I think it does help improve surface appearance and control some future peeling, but there is only so much a coating can do.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> I've had failure with XIM - paint store rep told me that XIM has gone severely downhill the past few years.


Bad advise from your rep. They are a strong company with great products. They employ one of the top five chemists in the USA. His name is Juan and he used to work for a small company called Sherwin-Williams. 
Ah, your selling paint leads anyway, what do you care about exterior products.:no:


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

Xim is awesome. Back brush it on bad lap siding and watch the magic happen. 

Never had a failure and it bridges like crazy.


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## Shoreline (Feb 7, 2011)

What about bleeding? Is that an issue?


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## Painterguy20years (Mar 30, 2011)

I have also tried XIM PB. It does smooth the rougher surfaces down. Good stuff. I have also used Mad Dog Primer too a bit. I guess it is meant to glue peeling paint etc down. Never had a problem with it. It is a bit more expensive though. also it is cool because it does fill a bit but is great against rust and tannin bleed. This helped me on one job that had hundredsssss of rusty nails blotches. 

I didn't have to reset and putty the nail holes. just primed as usual and it stopped the bleeding. I looked at the job about 3 years later and only a few out of hundreds of nails bleed thru. suprise!

anyone tried it?


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

*Stain blocking*

XIM Bleed Control 100. Cool stuff.

http://www.painttalk.com/f6/controlliing-tannin-bleed-2322/#post213037

http://www.ximbonder.com/upload/pdfs/BLEED CONTROL 100 DATA SHEET 1142.pdf

Also, Mad Dog primer is similar to Peel Bond, but lays on even thicker and claims to block everything. It has 4 rust inhibitors...



Shoreline said:


> What about bleeding? Is that an issue?


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

*XIM Peel Bond Spray App*

Anybody sprayed and not backbrushed/rolled this? I'm wondering if it hides texture better that way.

I've brushed and rolled this stuff on to mixed success.

For T 1-11 it does wonders. Old T 1-11 will scrape off indefinitely. I like Duration, but it can pull of loose paint, esp. around the edges of scraped areas. So I just did a house where on the sides and back I used the cheaper Peel Stop (which doesn't hide texture) and Peel Bond for the front. I applied all of it with a roller. 
The front showed almost no signs of texture on the scraped edges and the cracks in the siding from expanding and contracting disappeared. Also, I used significantly topcoat on the front...I think it might be less expensive to go with the Peel Bond all over - it'd be hard to calculate, but since the cost would be close, it might be prudent to make the whole thing look better. 

However, I've tried laying it on really thick with two coats to hide texture around thick, scraped lead paint. Since sanding lead is too be avoided, it wood be nice to have a product that levels it out. The two coats worked alright, but if I had a choicer client they wouldn't have accepted it. It was fascia so I didn't try spraying it on.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

The whole purpose is to bond the previous layers to the substrate. Back brushing is the best way to get adhesion to the previous layers, and fill in the cracks. If you want to smooth the previously failed areas, a skim of wood filler would be your best option.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

SL, what would you suggest for a good exterior filler? I have some wood fascia that has paint chips an 1/8" thick that will need filling not just peelbond.


straight_lines said:


> The whole purpose is to bond the previous layers to the substrate. Back brushing is the best way to get adhesion to the previous layers, and fill in the cracks. If you want to smooth the previously failed areas, a skim of wood filler would be your best option.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I was getting a product from SW that I could get in two gal containers. I can't get it anymore. Elmers stainable is what I have been using for the last few years.


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

Bask when I used it a lot, XIM was the killer product for priming weird surfaces, such as plastic, tile, fiberglass, etc. I'm sure other companies have competing products nowadays, but XIM was king back in those days.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

I'll try the elmers out. I've tried others and cannot remember the manufacturers but they didn't spread very smoothly. They almost had a "sand" texture that was tough to work with. 90% of my exterior work in the past was either block or steel etc. Not very used to painting exterior wood. Particularly old beat wood. I'll give the elmers and the peelbond a go. Thanks:thumbsup:


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

I've been using peel Bond much more extensively and like the product for locking down the previous coating after sanding. I've used it more as a bonding primer to reinforce the substrate. If you are trying to build mils then spraying is necessary. 

I will say that it does not hide the chipping paint but does help with alligatoring and some cracking. Using it for leveling out those craters, even with multiple coats, just does not work as well as I had expected. I do feel better offering a great prime coat none the less.

Just finished an exterior with peeling paint on T&G cedar. Spayed and back brushed Peel Bond on half and tried Mad Dog for the other so we'll know which is better in a few years. I really liked the Mad Dog and will probably be using it along with, or even more so than the Peel Bond.

For an exterior filler, for imperfections or previously peeling paint, I use MH Ready Patch


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## JonPaint (Sep 23, 2010)

Anyone ever use this on interior walls?I have an upcoming repaint with pretty serious peeling.


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

i ve used xim many times and would not suggest for interior walls,i would first get to the root of your problem cause interior walls should not be peeling,xim does make interior products one for wood work and trim,and a bonding primer which i also use a lot of.


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## JonPaint (Sep 23, 2010)

Thanks.I'm thinking it's largely wallpaper glue.It's especially bad on the party wall shared with a house that was until recently abandoned,and essentially without a roof.Moisture plus residual glue = peeling.The last job I did on it didn't last too long,which is especially embarrassing because it's my parents' house.


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

i dont hang paper but have removed my share of it,not sure if its been painted over but hot water and tsp some elbow grease will remove glue,any and all paint jobs are all about the prep,you need a sound surface to paint,if you try and paint over failing paint with out proper prep you will be hanging your head and biteing your nails,theres alot of good reading on here,you can ask most questions but it is also good to have a good paint rep that you can bring to a job thats always helpful.


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## JonPaint (Sep 23, 2010)

Thanks again.Yes,it's been painted over,many times and not too well.


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

billy the kid said:


> i dont hang paper but have removed my share of it,not sure if its been painted over but hot water and tsp some elbow grease will remove glue,any and all paint jobs are all about the prep,you need a sound surface to paint,if you try and paint over failing paint with out proper prep you will be hanging your head and biteing your nails,theres alot of good reading on here,you can ask most questions but it is also good to have a good paint rep that you can bring to a job thats always helpful.


Some paper is so stubborn to remove, that oversoaking it with remover will soften the orange peel or knock down texture underneath. I found myself scraping off the texture. I halted right there and advised my customer to repaper, not paint. That's not the case with all surfaces, these walls had only been painted once before they papered over with hard to remove paste, thus the remover solution soaked into the texture.


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## promax (Jan 30, 2011)

PB is great stuff, used it on alligatoring in a bathroom, used it exterior for cracking paint on a trulless system. U can mix it in your paint to save time instead of tinting it (it says you can on there website). Fills pretty well, just scrape the big stuff and get it on there. Holds up really well.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Contractor Jeff said:


> Some paper is so stubborn to remove, that oversoaking it with remover will soften the orange peel or knock down texture underneath. I found myself scraping off the texture. I halted right there and advised my customer to repaper, not paint. That's not the case with all surfaces, these walls had only been painted once before they papered over with hard to remove paste, thus the remover solution soaked into the texture.



Rehanging paper is not the only option! oil prime, skim and texture is a pretty standard event in my world.


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## jhudson (Jun 16, 2011)

*Love both MH and Peel Bond for exteriors. I also use MH for interior patching*

:thumbup:


Tonyg said:


> I've been using peel Bond much more extensively and like the product for locking down the previous coating after sanding. I've used it more as a bonding primer to reinforce the substrate. If you are trying to build mils then spraying is necessary.
> 
> I will say that it does not hide the chipping paint but does help with alligatoring and some cracking. Using it for leveling out those craters, even with multiple coats, just does not work as well as I had expected. I do feel better offering a great prime coat none the less.
> 
> ...


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