# Whats the best Trim dry rack system?



## Steve Burnett (May 28, 2012)

I have 2 projects coming up in 2 weeks calling for 3,600 lineal feet of 6" base, casing, and 8" crown. 

Looking for a economical, easy to use, strong, on site - dry rack.

What are you using?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Erecta Rack


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I don't have any picture of it but, it goes like this. Metal tube 2x2 about 18" long with a metal plate weld to it 12x12 holes drill in corners. Wood pole 1 7/8x 1 7/8 x 6'+ holes drilled in it every 6" or so for 1/2" steel rods 5" long. Over size drilling these holes . Forms what I call a Christmas tree. I have use two for trim. But have to be aware of how you load and unload it will tip over if you pull all from one side. I have use the same set as four for doors. My base came from a Mcedeas remodel and where table bases in there first life. Things I like about it it is lite. Takes no time to set up. holds a ton of trim. The con is that it will tip over if not carefully. I alot of times screw it to the floor or to a large piece of plywood. 
David


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

I took a photo of one of our racks when I was at the shop today. I'll try to upload the photo later. In short, each rack is a dozen or so 4-foot 1x2's sandwiched between a pair of 6-foot 2x4's and secured with deck screws. The 1x2's stick out one both sides of the rack. Some plywood gussets attach the uprights to a 2x4 base with casters at each end. A pair of these racks is fastened together with some 1x2's at whatever distance is appropriate. 

The assembled rack is loaded from both sides, and each 1x2 has about 22 inches of available space on each side of the upright. When the racks are full, they can be wheeled out of the way. I like being able to load them from the top down, so we're not putting pieces of trim (or cabinet doors, or siding) above freshly painted pieces, with the risk of dropping crud into the fresh finish.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

I use a dry rack that I bought at Hafele. i payed about $200 for it and it is quite portable and has wheels on it.

http://www.irsauctions.com/auctions/00014187/bigpicts/180108B.jpg


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Xmark said:


> I use a dry rack that I bought at Hafele. i payed about $200 for it and it is quite portable and has wheels on it.
> 
> http://www.irsauctions.com/auctions/00014187/bigpicts/180108B.jpg


I've got two of those. Bought them on sale at a local supplier, (Grainger? - not sure anymore), at [email protected] Have to be careful loading and unloading. Not ideal for long trim pieces unless you use both. A 6' rolling scaffold works pretty good for trim pieces.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

Wolfgang said:


> I've got two of those. Bought them on sale at a local supplier, (Grainger? - not sure anymore), at [email protected] Have to be careful loading and unloading. Not ideal for long trim pieces unless you use both. A 6' rolling scaffold works pretty good for trim pieces.



i use mine strictly for cabinet doors. there are only 4 bolts at the bottom that are easily removed for transport. basically 2 pieces plus the wire racks,and i normally use only half of them.

if i was doing a bunch of baseboards i'd get the erect a rack system. yeah i have used those 6' scaffolds too.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

My vote is for Erecta-rack as well. I bought 2 sets a few years ago because of Paint Talk....this site is pretty expensive for a free site....

440i
Proshot
Erectarack
Festool

The rack is very compact once broken down. They (company) were really easy to deal with as well.

http://www.erecta-rack.com/


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

ROOMINADAY said:


> this site is pretty expensive for a free site....


Oh man. You hit the nail on the head with that one! :whistling2::yes:


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## Steve Burnett (May 28, 2012)

Gough said:


> I took a photo of one of our racks when I was at the shop today. I'll try to upload the photo later. In short, each rack is a dozen or so 4-foot 1x2's sandwiched between a pair of 6-foot 2x4's and secured with deck screws. The 1x2's stick out one both sides of the rack. Some plywood gussets attach the uprights to a 2x4 base with casters at each end. A pair of these racks is fastened together with some 1x2's at whatever distance is appropriate.
> 
> The assembled rack is loaded from both sides, and each 1x2 has about 22 inches of available space on each side of the upright. When the racks are full, they can be wheeled out of the way. I like being able to load them from the top down, so we're not putting pieces of trim (or cabinet doors, or siding) above freshly painted pieces, with the risk of dropping crud into the fresh finish.



Thank you Gough,

Could you post a picture?

I like the erecta system, however with 3,600' feet of 6" base, the pro system would cost about $2,000. If we were going to use them again, ok maybe, but unlikely. 

If you guys could post some pictures of the ones you made that would be very helpful. Thank you!


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Burnett said:


> Thank you Gough,
> 
> Could you post a picture?
> 
> ...


We've been having some trouble uploading images from our cameras, but I'll give it a try today.


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## Steve Burnett (May 28, 2012)

Gough said:


> We've been having some trouble uploading images from our cameras, but I'll give it a try today.


Maybe easer to e-mail them to me? 

[email protected] 

Thank you!
Steve


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Yes please e mail us the pics: Budweiser24/[email protected]


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

ROOMINADAY said:


> My vote is for Erecta-rack as well. I bought 2 sets a few years ago because of Paint Talk....this site is pretty expensive for a free site....
> 
> 440i
> Proshot
> ...


Yep me too 
Paint talk and jack Paul 
I will be looking a the 9 dollar painters pants tonight . 
Crazy I guess a decade ago I would of spent it on 
Drugs .


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Erecta rack for most everything unless its big ext trim package, like 5/4x10 or 12 stuff, in which case we run our '05's. But er handles most typical profiles and occupies the least footprint. Never collapsed one, and it loads in a bag.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Steve Burnett said:


> Thank you Gough,
> 
> Could you post a picture?
> 
> ...


Buy a 10 stack set and go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy 20 5' footers for about 25 bucks which will almost double your load capacity.


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

For you guys using the Erecta Rack, it says you can do 15 courses. Any stability issues up that high?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

ligboozer said:


> For you guys using the Erecta Rack, it says you can do 15 courses. Any stability issues up that high?


It depends on the load. 

Its really important to use all of the support struts provided in the kit when you go beyond about 7.

Proper spacing of the rack itself is important - make sure that you put as much distance between the rack sections as possible, based on the lengths of materials being run. You dont want 16 foot 1x6 crowning and sagging over just 4 feet of rack separation for instance. 

When going for a large batch of big stuff, say 5/4x10 or 12, we do a triple set up with a whole center section. That is very stable. Still, support struts all around. 

If we are running a mixed batch of stuff, we always put the longest stuff at the bottom, so the lightest stuff ends up in the top half of the rack. We have gone up to the 12-15 levels, but always with moldings landing at the top. 

Overall I like it best for light to mid weight types of materials - windows, doors, cabinet doors/drawer fronts, etc. Its great for siding. For big productions in the shop sometimes we do go straight to our old Frankenstein racks for big heavyweight batches, then supplement with the er for smaller or misc items. Thats usually for exterior packages with beefy fascia, frieze, corner boards and heavy crown where its all long length and heavy.

All that really matters in the end is that whatever rack you are using is efficient and does not wobble and collapse when full. 

If we have to take a rack on site, its always er. We dont drag around the old gargantasauruses anymore.


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## JNine (Sep 24, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> Erecta rack for most everything unless its big ext trim package, like 5/4x10 or 12 stuff, in which case we run our '05's. But er handles most typical profiles and occupies the least footprint. Never collapsed one, and it loads in a bag.


Enjoyed your APC article about the erecta rack. Can't remember which issue it was. Good stuff.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

For those who wanted to see gough's rack here it is.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

I think this is the biggest we have built it...16. Always try to go one beyond what the mfr sets for the limit. Then two...etc. 

It handled this load well.


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## alertchief (Nov 12, 2009)

Purchased the door rack painter and loved it on the first job. Sets up in minutes and the painting rack and and two storage racks fits great in a small duffle bag.


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## alertchief (Nov 12, 2009)

alertchief said:


> purchased the door rack painter and loved it on the first job. Sets up in minutes and the painting rack and and two storage racks fits great in a small duffle bag.


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## alertchief (Nov 12, 2009)

alertchief said:


> purchased the door rack painter and loved it on the first job. Sets up in minutes and the painting rack and and two storage racks fits great in a small duffle bag.


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