# To caulk or not too caulk ?



## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

My first impression was to caulk . The cedar 1/2 
Were never caulk before . Any opinions ?


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I wouldn't, just looks like chit when the caulk breaks, which it will.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I might hit it with some SherMax or Big Stretch


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I wouldn't 65 year caulk will crack after 1 year an look like crap.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks guys not to caulk wins , it's old needs a lot of sanding . Prime coat and 2 coats 1245 
Back roll .


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I win!! Lol


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I win!! Lol


 
mr ewnig might take exception to that


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

chrisn said:


> mr ewnig might take exception to that


Fine it's a tie


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Thanks guys not to caulk wins , it's old needs a lot of sanding . Prime coat and 2 coats 1245
> Back roll .


why prime it? two coats of dulux diamond flat would do the job nicely.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

Caulk board and batten, unless money is an issue, I guess.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

We have some projects that are done each way. On a repaint, we give the option to caulk or not if never caulked. To be honest, caulk has held up fine in that application for us. On cement board style board and batten, caulking is required for warranty.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

I think it's crucial to caulk verticals.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Not. Too much work and only cosmetic. A lot of movement there too. Not to mention, your fingers would be bleeding after three lengths on that rough cut.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Not. Too much work and only cosmetic. A lot of movement there too. Not to mention, your fingers would be bleeding after three lengths on that rough cut.


Caulking vertical cracks is only strictly cosmetic when completely covered, like in a carport. Also, I usually wipe caulk with a low pile wiping cloth over my finger unless I'm just caulking a couple things.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Caulktheline, I would have been VERY disappointed if you had answered not to caulk.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

DeanV said:


> Caulktheline, I would have been VERY disappointed if you had answered not to caulk.


Haha, I was hoping to see mudbone post that. :whistling2:


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

caulktheline said:


> Caulking vertical cracks is only strictly cosmetic when completely covered, like in a carport. Also, I usually wipe caulk with a low pile wiping cloth over my finger unless I'm just caulking a couple things.


Ah, the battens keep the water out in that case. You ever see an unfinished batten building that still doesn't leak?


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

The last board and batten I did was a volunteer job on a sunday school. The few that were opened up were warped and had some rot. We get a lot of rain too so, it's pretty important round here.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Not. Too much work and only cosmetic. A lot of movement there too. Not to mention, your fingers would be bleeding after three lengths on that rough cut.


 Keep hands out of it!


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Don't tell me you use the back of a spoon, or the "caulk buddy"?http://www.newborncaulkguns.com/website%20pics/6%20inches/caulkbuddy_sm.pdf


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

DeanV said:


> Caulktheline, I would have been VERY disappointed if you had answered not to caulk.


Thanks funny ...


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## bigjeffie61520 (Oct 3, 2009)

I wish some more would chime in. I have the same question. Seems like a watertight application would require some caulking....


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

use a bulk gun with some ac-20 no fingering needed.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

1963 Sovereign said:


> use a bulk gun with some ac-20 no fingering needed.


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

I have no idea how that picture ties in to this conversation..use your big boy words......


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Don't tell me you use the back of a spoon, or the "caulk buddy"?http://www.newborncaulkguns.com/website pics/6 inches/caulkbuddy_sm.pdf


No just attractive bead.No tooling needed.:yes:


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

We always caulk those and have never had an issue with the caulk breaking out or tearing. I think its important to keep water out. The ones I have seen that are not caulked usually have rot on the little boards and behind them. It does add a lot of time to the job though so if its a budget I can see that.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

I would caulk it. I find a lot of times when any caulking has failed prematurely it's because not enough caulking was put into the actual crack but just spread on the surface. 

Most of my customers want caulk in their cracks


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

1963 Sovereign said:


> I have no idea how that picture ties in to this conversation..use your big boy words......


just not a fan of leaving caulk as it lay, that's all


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Me neither. I feel it needs to be tooled to get good contact with the substrate.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Me neither. I feel it needs to be tooled to get good contact with the substrate.


 Totally agree to some point.Its according what substrate I am caulking.Very small cracks in trim looked better tooled when some cracks if your bead is right on is better left alone cause tooling it thins out the edges usually ending up in premature failing of caulk.


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## Conley (Dec 6, 2010)

I caulk and explain how sometimes the bead cracks and may need to be redone and kind of figure on that in estimate.If you don't caulk water will continue to go behind the board and rot, warp, and have a party. Maybe a couple more nails to snug it up and a nice bead. May get a bloody finger or two unless you use a tool. I get bloody fingers and then cut fingers off nitril gloves lol. I don't like the glove cause the palm eventually sticks together on me. 
Nothing works better for me than a wet finger.
But when I bleed I get upset. The glove helps.
That's my 2


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Me neither. I feel it needs to be tooled to get good contact with the substrate.


Do you guys use the bulk guns,and finger that also ?


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Never used a bulk gun. Honestly, I see what others are saying, especially in cases like the picture at the top of the thread. But you know, old habits die hard.


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

1963 Sovereign said:


> Do you guys use the bulk guns,and finger that also ?


Maybe not when I'm sealing the bottom of drywall to a subfloor, but in the OP's application it shouldn't be left as it lay.


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## -ganja- (Aug 2, 2012)

I made a tool from my children's blocks and cut the corners to push the caulk into those cracks


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