# Painted Stainless Steel Countertop



## Florida1

Doing a side project, involving an old formica countertop prolly put in around 1970, in the house I'm in. To try something new, I had an idea, since my girlfriend wasn't ready to buy new counter tops. 

Here is what I did, I used an adhesion primer (latex) from SW, retails for about $52, great stuff btw. Put 2 coats of this on, then using Krylon Stainless Steel spray paint in a can, about 20 of them, I just finished the 4th coat. Around 5pm, going to be putting the 5th and final coat on.

In between coats, a light 220 grit sanding and brushing is done.

Looking good so far, hoping the 5th finishes it off.

Finally I will be putting on 3 -5 coats of an acrylic polyurethane over it all (high gloss). 

The end product should look like a stainless steel, rustic bar counter top. A little different, but I thought why not try it. If it turns out I like I hope, I will post some pics.


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## Workaholic

I am sceptical of rattle can, let's see a pic.


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## Roadog

I'd be worried about the toxins .....none of that is food grade finish.


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## Florida1

Workaholic said:


> I am sceptical of rattle can, let's see a pic.


Yep, I just got back from the paint store. We were both looking at it after the 4th coat, and did a test polyurethane on it and decided, no way. We're going to just paint it an off white, then polyurethane it. Put the 1st coat on after another sanding and may have to do 2 more coats to cover that sray stuff up.

I think it will work, anything will be better than looking at that old counter.

Let me take a pic when it'd done, otherwise you're going to just see the first coat with the mettalic bleading through a bit.


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## ROOMINADAY

Post form formica counter tops run 11 bucks a foot here! Seems like a much better option than a painted counter.


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## TJ Paint

You should next try a concrete slab pour. Those are pretty cool.


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## Ultimate

Workaholic said:


> I am sceptical of rattle can, let's see a pic.


This is an old article I read. It's a long one. Some of the pictures may be removed due to age or however it is that works. I just glanced through it and it may be my browser but some did show up. 

Anyway, this was an eye opener for me regarding rattle cans. Check out a couple pics and then decide if you want to bookmark it and read up on it one day. I have tested from info on this article and found success. A product called U-POL 1. Clearcoat. Good stuff.

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264901


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## Rcon

Roadog said:


> I'd be worried about the toxins .....none of that is food grade finish.


The folly of food safe finishes...


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## Ultimate

^ Good read


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## Amonkeyinshoes

I use Giani Granite paint for countertops. It is specially formulated for countertops and there are a million different styles you can accomplish. www.gianigranite.com
The same company makes Liquid Stainless Steel paint. I haven't used it, but I have had several people in my art group who have and they rave about it.


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## LAD

I was going to suggest as well to try something like "Liquid Stainless Steel" paint. Works very well. As far as your topcoat goes and polys, more coats does not mean better. You'd be better off putting one or maybe two coats of a 2 part polyspartic urethane. Or start with a self-leveling, zero voc, epoxy, then the urethane for better protection. And yes there are 'food safe' rated topcoats to use.
As far as Giani granite goes, its like sponge painting your counter. And the topcoat is not very strong. Did a full review of the product here: http://talkfaux.com/forum/index.php?topic=5933.msg56422#msg56422

Hope this helps.


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## daArch

Rcon said:


> The folly of food safe finishes...


I am usually skeptical of people with no formal training or degrees giving opinions on what is safe. 

And that's not saying I blindly follow what gov't experts always say either.

I do harken back to things like DDT, lead, asbestos, smoking, thalidomide, etc all which were opined to be harmless by some segment of society despite studies. 

I generally prefer to err on the side of safety.


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## DeanV

daArch said:


> I am usually skeptical of people with no formal training or degrees giving opinions on what is safe.
> 
> And that's not saying I blindly follow what gov't experts always say either.
> 
> I do harken back to things like DDT, lead, asbestos, smoking, thalidomide, etc all which were opined to be harmless by some segment of society despite studies.
> 
> I generally prefer to err on the side of safety.



The interesting part of the article though was that ingredients approved for use in food areas are the same used in products not labelled as food safe. And that no one is doing the batch testing the FDA requires either way. And products labelled food safe are no different than are not labelled as such. Flexner is a very well known name in finishing, not a rank amateur by any means.


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## daArch

Well, what is REALLY interesting is that raw wood has been used for centuries as cutting boards and counter tops without widespread poisoning of the populace. But with all these impervious surfaces, there has been a rise in food preparation poisonings.

My brother, the woodworker, is firmly under the impression that the composition of the wood kills the bacteria whereas plastic or other synthetics allow all those little germs to mix and mingle on the surface, unless douched regularly with anti-bacterials

One could say, "food for thought"


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## straight_lines

I have done some research this summer on this. I found that the cost would be similar to replacement in the amount of t/m it would take to produce these high end faux counter tops.


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## Wolfgang

They do make a "stainless steel" laminate. Did an entire kitchen cab doors and shells with it to match the stainless steel counter tops. Pricey, but have held up like new for the past 9 years. I think I'd rather re-laminate a top than paint one. The biggest issue is just removing the sink in many cases.


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## daArch

Wolfy said:


> I think I'd rather re-laminate a top than paint one. The biggest issue is just removing the sink in many cases.


And for those of us who have done this, it ain't THAT big an issue. 

With the amount of time and money spent painting, one could make a good argument that re-laminating was a better value. It IS easy enough to glue another layer on the old. No need to buy new countertop.


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