# Gummy hand oil on high traffic pass doors



## rwarrenbu (Jan 20, 2016)

So I have some existing old hollow metal doors that are in a high traffic area, that have a build up of a black residue caused by peoples hands on the surface. The maintenance personal in the building have tried to repaint the doors numerous times and the paint does not seem to be drying properly (probably because of lack of preparation). I think they were using SW precat on them. I know surface prep is crucial, just to what extent. Do they need to be completely stripped or will a really good sanding do the trick. Thinking about using a alkyd urethane to achieve a good hard finish. I was curious to suggestions in solving this issue.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

If you do what they did, which I assume is repaint over gunk, then you will get the same result.


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## rwarrenbu (Jan 20, 2016)

I haven't done any work on the doors yet. They called me to resolve the issue for them. I plan on doing some serious prep work to them. Just curious if they should be completely stripped clean or if a really proper sanding should work. Would priming them be a beneficial step in the process after the prep work or would a couple of coats of the urethane do the trick?


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## Gracobucks (May 29, 2011)

They have to be stripped clean. Sanding doesn't work, Trust me I have tried.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Clean with Krud Cutter of some such product, sanding just grinds the crap deeper into the wood.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

chrisn said:


> Clean with Krud Cutter of some such product, sanding just grinds the crap deeper into the wood.


They are hollow metal doors.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I vote for the Krud Kutter as well - metal or wood.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I was thinking hardcore sand the paint that didn't adhere, dry properly. Dust, then attack it with krud cutter or whatever, prime, sand, dust and away you go.

I couldn't see sanding grinding the mush deeper into wood doors? I've never seen that happen, but maybe I've been lucky or using coarser paper?


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

They're Metal! Come on!


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

epretot said:


> They're Metal! Come on!


OK,OK,OK, I got it:whistling2:


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## Gracobucks (May 29, 2011)

Even on metal doors, sanding will just move the dirt and grease around. It has to be washed


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Is it permissible to use a torch to striop metal on site? 

It seems like one would need a permit to do so.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Clean well with KK, sand, give a quick last wipe down with thinner, prime and paint with products approved for use on metal. Painting 101.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Torch and strip? Clean and sand? Come on guys you are overthinking this. You have to replace the doors.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Install a stainless steel plate at the affected area.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

epretot said:


> Is it permissible to use a torch to striop metal on site?
> 
> It seems like one would need a permit to do so.





Andyman said:


> Torch and strip? Clean and sand? Come on guys you are overthinking this. You have to replace the doors.


Or, running them through one of those metal crushers at a junkyard will likely loosen the old stuff enough to make it easier to remove. Then after the doors are straightened and hammered out again you can proceed with the refinishing.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Whatever! I asked a legit question.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

epretot said:


> Whatever! I asked a legit question.


Sorry - guess I couldn't see how some hand gunk would lead to discussing torching or replacing. Thought you were kidding around.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I have had similar things on hand railings. What we did was wiped everything down with denatured alcohol sanded primed sanded and than painted. It solved the problem just painting over will not work if it was like the hand railings we have done.


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## phahn (Jun 1, 2015)

I still swear by scrubbing it down with M.E.K. And then use the Urethane Alkyd. 
I'm a huge fan of pre-cat but it couldn't hold up over time compared to urethane. Remember the dry time takes forever and the odor is powerful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nogg (Aug 23, 2007)

I like to start with a sharp scraper to get the soft junk out of the way then wash


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## JakeTheAnchor (Feb 23, 2016)

Didn't read the replys...but i could use KrudKutter. It's a latex remover/degreaser. Then i would save it with a medium sponge.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

JakeTheAnchor said:


> Didn't read the replys...but i could use KrudKutter. It's a latex remover/degreaser. Then i would save it with a medium sponge.


Read the reply's first, save the space.:whistling2:


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