# Anyone want thread/vids on NC spraying?



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Hey everyone,

Haven't seen many posts on NC spraying lately, but in the past I knew it was a pretty big topic. 

Just curious to know what people think of making a thread for NC spraying techniques, etc. 

We're getting ready to knock out a house this coming week, so if there's interest I might be able to put some stuff together. If not enough interest...well...on to the next topic lol.

Let me know.

-coyote


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## capn26 (Aug 17, 2014)

I'd love to see some. In particular walls and how you mask things. But anything will be appreciated. I bought one three months ago and am learning on the fly.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Yeah I forgot to add, what people might/would want to see. lol.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Please dont just show spraying. Describe scope/work flow as well.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Yeah seems like prep was another major question mark in most of the threads. Would try to describe how it works in our part of the country.

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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Most of the NC around here is one coat of SW painters edge sprayed and back rolled.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I was thinking about having someone video me and my boss spraying out a new interior next week. 

If you can video your job without too much extra effort I'm sure it would be good too.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I think a GoPro3 would be the ticket. :yes:


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Go pro would be a good idea, if I had one. 

And ridesarize, yeah another video from another person/crew would be good too. Different techniques in different places.

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## ttalbon (Aug 6, 2009)

It's a great idea and please make sure we see you opening the paint can at the beginning with your 5 in 1 or putty knife and closing it at the end with your foot or rubber mallet!


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

Sure coyote, would enjoy seeing the whole process? If you're doing trim work maybe an up lose shot of what your spraying with and how easy it goes? I'd love to see it all. I work mostly with an lvlp n a compressor so I always enjoy the otter side of spraying! Thanks man!!!


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## whodog94 (Aug 10, 2012)

I sure would... Interior, exterior, trim doors, cabinets and shoot, even cars lol


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Haha. Yeah won't be doing a car...yet. trim on this is a bit different. Yall will see when I show you. No casing, molding gets tucked into the door jamb. A little Different out here. 

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## sdoran (Feb 15, 2014)

Sounds like a good idea!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Prep Process 1*

Okay folks, I started the prep. process this week, finally. 
Not a big rush on this project, which is good because I can slow things down and take the video/photos that would be much harder to take if we were in a rush. 

Here are some photos of the door "trim" that is very popular out here. Some close ups as well as a distant shot to show the look without traditional casing. We do have traditional casing out here, but more new homes have the look below than the actual casing. 

Some cracks in the metal molding are just caulked and painted, we do all the corners whether they are tight or lose, covers everything.

Tip: We do the jambs before the sheetrockers get there. Then they can hang the sheetrock, bullnose, etc. Its easier because we don't have to mask any walls. Jambs in this house are stained, black glazed, sealed.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Ah, the famous "kerfed jambs". Where is it that these are still a thing? It has to be nice to get in early when those are used in NC.

They were a trademark of one of the established contractors around here. He was the sole practitioner.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Which country is this?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Sponge, water, and cleaning corners*

The first thing we do is clean the floor, walls. That actually happened on Monday and I was busy running around so I didn't document that. 

1.) Essentially what happens is we pour water on the concrete floor, blower the walls & dust mop, wet vac the floor clean. 

2.) Next is what is pictured below. We go and clean the corners with a sponge and water. The blower and the dust mop do a good job on long sections, but sometimes dust tends to hang up in the corners which would inhibit the caulk from adhering properly. All corners get caulked.

In this process, we cut the edges of the sponges off. Makes it easier to get into the corners and this is also the same method for wiping the caulk down as well. 






































In this step, we typically have 1 guy going around wiping about arm's reach and down to the ground. Another guy comes and does the top section and ceiling. In this case, I was 2 people in 1, as everyone was at other job sites. The dark line in the right corner is where it has been wiped/cleaned.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Which country is this?



USA, New Mexico.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Gough said:


> Ah, the famous "kerfed jambs". Where is it that these are still a thing? It has to be nice to get in early when those are used in NC.
> 
> They were a trademark of one of the established contractors around here. He was the sole practitioner.



Yes, kerfed jambs, in New Mexico. It's a nice look, but a pain to caulk. Corners and inside edge. Otherwise it's a nice clean look. In some situations it's nice to have in other styles of home it wouldn't "fit" properly.

Well we actually are there while other trades are there. We just respect each others space. Some things are left undone like exterior doors because they are either temporary doors or too many people coming in and out to mess with them.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Cleaning the corners, the look*

Here are some photos of what I meant about doing the bottom first and then the ceiling. 

I didn't have any ladder hooks so I used the bucket on the floor. Just position the ladder correctly and you can get maximum reach with the sponge with less moving of the ladder. 

This photo here shows how much can be covered with the ladder positioned properly. The ladder in this case was placed once and the darker spots in the corners of the ceiling show the reach if its placed properly, before having to reposition it. 






























Tip: If you use this method, place the bucket in the middle of the room or ahead of the ladder so throwing the sponge in, while on the ladder, is much easier. Then when you go down the ladder to move it, you can clean the sponge and climb back up. A little less work. OR* You can not forget the ladder hook, which keeps the bucket on the ladder, which is even easier.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Prep videos 1*

For those that are a little more video oriented, I posted a few things to youtube and I plan on doing more photos/videos as well as we do the processes of painting this house. More to come.

I know a lot of people have asked about completion times of others projects or how fast someone finishes something, etc. So I decided to try and keep a track of it.

Master bedroom/closet prep walkthrough, cleaning corners.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AnlwZqG3oM

Ladder/bucket setup, same as photos but with video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AUFAQZdlNE

Other bedrooms, corner cleaning and completion time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx82oVMkvjM


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Prep tips tricks & efficiency*

We all have our own styles as we all know by talking amongst each other. 

Here is our style about doing new construction work, in our part of the world. 


Stir stick trick, cleaning windows:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA8E9Ihra5M


Paint box, keep the workers working and help maintain efficiency:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjtkJZtJ4pA


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## capn26 (Aug 17, 2014)

Nice nice!! Keep it up sir. I'm thoroughly enjoying these. Very helpful. Nothing you've covered is too basic. It really helps to see everything you do. 

The more I see and read here, the more I KNOW that there isn't a ton of production painting going on in my area. Production here is ten guys brushing and rolling. It's quick but costly.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Never done new construction, so this is just fascinating to see the process. Keep it up! If in a pinch how quickly do you think you would be able to get this job done with 2-3 men?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

driftweed said:


> Never done new construction, so this is just fascinating to see the process. Keep it up! If in a pinch how quickly do you think you would be able to get this job done with 2-3 men?


With myself and 3 guys, guaranteed 2 days. 

Long days, early start in the morning and packing up around 5:00pm.

Edit: 
Doesn't take into consideration the door jambs/doors and vigas (wood beams). Adding that in. 1 week top, in a pinch.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Prep tools for spraying*

Here are the tapes we use, plastic, masker, and spray socks. Pretty much the standard, from job to job. 

Tape is 1" and 1.5"


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Masking process, door jambs with kerf jambs*

Here is the masking process for the door jambs, with the kerf jambs. 

Again, one guy goes around (myself in this particular case) and put the long plastic (9ft) on the door jamb sides throughout the area we are going to spray.

Another guy comes behind and actually masks it off with tape, cuts the extra plastic, etc. 

When the first guy is done, he comes back and uses the 2ft plastic and masks the upper section of the door jambs. 

Tip: Cut the plastic larger than the jamb, then while putting it up fold it back so that it is the proper size.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Masking of kerf jambs continued*

Masking of kerf jambs continued, pictures.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Explanation of the cutting larger, folding the masking plastic/tape, and folding it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iReVA_W2T5Q


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Some additional masking, plumbing*

Here are some additional masking things. 

For the electrical boxes we use newspaper. We get it free mostly advertising. Just another tip/thing we do here.

Take a page, rip it in half and fold it into the boxes. Tape is used for the vents and some electrical lights.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Here is what we call, watering the corners. 

Basically pouring water where the sheetrock meets the concrete. The reason for this is to keep the dust, that has a tendency to go under the sheetrock, won't come back up/out when the air pressure from the sprayer wants to kick it up and onto the wet walls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I270kau30n0


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*getting ready to spray - new construction*

Okay folks, we've reached the point where it's basically time to start spraying.

Things needed, spare buckets. Typically anywhere from 4 to 6 empty buckets will work just fine. Pour into, in order to mix, then clean the buckets immediately afterwards.

Also a 5 gallon elastic paint filter is needed. Only takes a matter of 30 seconds to a minute to strain the paint and saves you headaches for not doing so. 

** *Tip*: The primer is tinted, in this particular case to a light sky blue color. This will help us when we apply the paint. We will be able to see exactly where we hit/missed. Also, this helps us find defects in the texture prior to paint. If see any, we spackle, sand, and spot prime prior to paint. 
The color of the paint will be an off white, almost a cream. The primer is not dark enough to cause issues with bleed through. Of course this color isn't a catch-all, and might have to be tweaked on an individual project basis (i.e. blue painted room, would require the primer color to change).

*Product: Sherwin Williams Hi-Build Primer

*






















Pouring Primer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usTg6Ujfztk


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*new construction - tip size*

Okay everyone, this is the section where it seems like a lot of people have questions about what sized tip should be used etc.

First off, there is no 'correct' answer. Even if you read the manufacturer's specs they list a "range" of tip sizes, not one in particular (at least for the products used in this thread).

*Our Method:* Our method involved using 2 tips. We do have others, but I've found that these 2 are for the most part all we need. 

Of course a lot of technique is involved and knowing what to look for, most importantly what NOT to do. 

*Tip Size(s): *623 and 1223

The 623 will throw a 12 inch fan. The 1223 will throw a 24 inch or 2 foot fan. 

The 623 gets used in closets and bathrooms. The 1223 gets used in larger rooms or open walls/ceiling, etc. 












Make sure your tips/housing are lined up with the gun. 
Easiest way: Arrows to Arrows.
*Tip:* We always use a 2 foot extension pole and sometimes 2 connected together when needed. They are light weight and you don't need to use a ladder to reach most places up to 10ft high.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*What to spray - first*

Like I said before it's important to know what to look for and also what NOT to do.

Our technique: *Spray the ceilings first*. Spray one room/section, move to another, spray that one, then another. 

*The reason*: The overspray / fallout will land on the walls in droplets/dust form. When we go to coat the walls next the new coating will cover these and leave a buttery smooth finish. 

If we were to do it the other way around, walls first then ceiling. The overspray / fall out would leave a sand paper type finish one the newly sprayed walls. Just another tip.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Wall sprayed - sheen consistency*

Okay I'm going to try and cover a few things here. Some spray technique, some of what to look for, etc.

For starters, it takes practice. 

I know spraying isn't always a big thing in other parts of the country, but where we are its everything. Even in res-repaints, where its called for, they will spray / prefer to. 

After the ceilings, we start the walls. Start in a corner and work your way around with not a lot of start/stop points with the trigger. Is it possible to start/stop, yes. But if you do, do a quick pass over where you stopped to re-wet the area and continue from there. Or else you run the risk of seeing spray tracks/halos, etc.

If you do need to stop, try to stop at a "natural break", such as a corner. Make sure to complete the wall your working on, if possible, prior to stopping.

*Technique: *The technique is the same as rolling etc. You must keep a wet edge for consistency.




























This is a close up of what it looks like after it is sprayed. The 23 orifice puts out a lot of paint, more so than .17 or what not. It takes some practice to not have runs, but it covers great and really gets a good coat on everything. 

What to look for with this size tip: Essentially, it should look like it is almost about to run. At this point in time adding more paint/primer would more than likely cause a run. If more paint is needed in a small amount, use quick bursts to add it. Otherwise, wait until it dries more and re-spray that section.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Spraying in sections*

Another thing to consider/do is spray complex ceilings/walls in sections.

Rather than trying to throw as much paint on there as possible, a lot of times complex shapes have to be broken down into sections. It makes it easier to methodically complete the spraying.

Here are some examples: 

Notice the skylight is un-painted as it will be done last. Still the ceiling is finished before the walls.




















More complex ceiling shape. Notice how it can be broken down in sections while spraying.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Video Walk Through of Closet/Bathroom*

Okay here are some videos of a few things to keep in mind.

The first video shows the sheen consistency I keep referring to when spraying. 

I didn't use any back lighting or anything, just ambient light coming in from the skylight in the bathroom.

It's important to get a consistent sheen or at least check to see that the entire spray area (in this case wall structure) is "wet" looking. You'll be able to see low spots with less paint or no paint. You'll also be checking for spray tracks from a tip that isn't throwing a proper fan as you'll see the lines in the paint prior to drying. 

I walk back in forth in this video to see what the wall looks like with the ambient light as a source.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn_cPUcJ0fY

Completed Closet sheen:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbnM7wfW8Qc

Tip of spraying ceiling before walls & walk through:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzJORaDgewI

Completed walk through of closet/bathroom & completion time:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC0K0N1G8HM



We also use heaters to help dry the paint/primer faster. If we are really in a rush we'll bring 3 or 4 of these things in there in different areas of the home and within an hour or so the paint/primer will be dry to the touch.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

When you say to do complex shapes in sections, do you usually wait for one side to dry before doing the other side of the shape, or do you just do one side complete and then do the next?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Painter-Aaron said:


> When you say to do complex shapes in sections, do you usually wait for one side to dry before doing the other side of the shape, or do you just do one side complete and then do the next?


Good question. It depends on the shape. I prefer to follow the rule, keep it wet. 

If it's a small profile of something then I will spray and let dry (assuming its paint). 

Otherwise I will spray and complete one section, then I will spray the second section / other sections, until it is complete. 

Also, depending on what it is and size, a change of tip may also be necessary. Like I said the 2 tips we use aren't catch-alls. If we have a 18" wide by 12" tall, nook, for example. I would change the tip size out to a 2 or 3 prior to spraying to avoid runs and over spraying. 

The runs would typically occur not in the actual shape itself, per se, but with a wide fan it's usually the edges. The reason being is that it gets hit 3 or 4 times and then they begin to run (as an example).


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Spraying Videos*

Its time to show some actual spraying going on. 











Tip sized use for ceiling: 623
Spraying the tray ceiling, in parts like I was describing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OkT290a8KA

Finish spraying the tray ceiling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbX-0ZyDyzs


Spraying the walls, using the 1223, to help show everyone what it looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Q-a6v5yweI

Completion of spraying the 3 walls in the bedroom:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVSduXIfAMA


P.S. I got tired of looking at the gray door so I sprayed it for fun. It's a temporary door that gets beat up from all the trades.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I like using big tips as well but my arm is getting tired watching you use that 18" wand. I'm not real tall so I use a 3' wand.


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## capn26 (Aug 17, 2014)

Okay. Awesome so far. I'm reading and re reading. This is very very thorough. 

I have a question though. My area is very very trim happy. 1200sqft boxes have 5 1/2 base, crown, 3 1/2 casing, etc. when you have say crown, do you spray trim first, then mask it off or vice versa. If you spray it first do you mask of walls against overspray?


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

O.k. now I have some spray technique questions.

I understand you are using a larger tipsize. But why do you spray up n down versus side to side? Especially with the end of row wrist flop. I thought that technical we need to maintain the gun at an even angle to to wall. 

I go sideways so that when I am done with wall 1 I can go nonstop to wall 2. Example: I start at top of wall 1 go side to side to bottom, then smoothly transfer over to wall 2 at the bottom and work bottom to top, and so on.

At first I thought well maybe you were doing that to avoid the "tiger stripes" but alas in videos it's still there. 

Will you backroll on this job at all?


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Oh, and why the heck do you put your spray sock OVER your respirator? Guess I am backwards because I wear mine under.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

driftweed said:


> O.k. now I have some spray technique questions.
> 
> I understand you are using a larger tipsize. But why do you spray up n down versus side to side? Especially with the end of row wrist flop. I thought that technical we need to maintain the gun at an even angle to to wall.
> 
> ...


Nice to see someone else doing the vertical pattern on walls. I always felt it meant less walking or a lot fewer laps.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

capn26 said:


> Okay. Awesome so far. I'm reading and re reading. This is very very thorough.
> 
> I have a question though. My area is very very trim happy. 1200sqft boxes have 5 1/2 base, crown, 3 1/2 casing, etc. when you have say crown, do you spray trim first, then mask it off or vice versa. If you spray it first do you mask of walls against overspray?


What we do is we spray out our ceilings, then let the carpenters install the crown. We then fill, caulk, and sand. Once the crown is fully prepped and dusted we mask the ceiling with tape and paper. After the ceiling and windows are masked we spray the crown. After the crown is sprayed we go through it for any last fine tuning, then spray it all again.

Same with base, door, and window casings


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

kmp said:


> I like using big tips as well but my arm is getting tired watching you use that 18" wand. I'm not real tall so I use a 3' wand.


Yeah a 3ft wand would work pretty well for the taller ceilings. I find it a bit of a pain to switch between 18" for walls and 3ft for ceilings. If it was a little taller ceiling I'd double up an 18" wand to get to 3 ft. Then just disassemble to do walls.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

capn26 said:


> Okay. Awesome so far. I'm reading and re reading. This is very very thorough.
> 
> I have a question though. My area is very very trim happy. 1200sqft boxes have 5 1/2 base, crown, 3 1/2 casing, etc. when you have say crown, do you spray trim first, then mask it off or vice versa. If you spray it first do you mask of walls against overspray?


I think it depends on the actual setup. But for crown, for example, I would probably end up spraying the crown first. Then mask it off. 

Something you could do to mask it off is use paper vs. plastic. Take a smaller roll and trim it down to the size you need, use a sawzaw, circular saw, or chop saw to get it down to what you need easily. 

Then just spray the walls as needed. Just remember to use blue tape when you mask off the painted trim or yellow frog tape. Something that is more delicate with a pre-painted surface. 

As for baseboard you could do either or as far as order of masking. I'd properly do the same, spray trim, let it dry out, mask it off and spray the walls. Less masking that way.

If you do the walls first, you have to mask the trim, then let it dry and then mask the wall (2 masking tasks). 

But that's a personal opinion though.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

driftweed said:


> O.k. now I have some spray technique questions.
> 
> I understand you are using a larger tipsize. But why do you spray up n down versus side to side? Especially with the end of row wrist flop. I thought that technical we need to maintain the gun at an even angle to to wall.
> 
> ...


Technique wise it's a good idea to keep it parallel, per the text books. In practice it's not exactly necessary depending on how you do it. The tip size puts out a lot of paint and ultimately that's the important part. 

A lot of people miss the fact that they need to put a good amount on the wall versus getting it on the wall.

When it comes to corners, I find it easier to spray vertically versus horizontally. Especially when it comes to the upper parts of the wall, it would require a ladder to maintain that horizontal pattern. 

As far as triger tripes, I think you mean spray tracks? When you spray they show up a bit, but go away as you add more paint to the surface. With a big tip it's nice because if you go too fast you will automatically get them, so it lets you know when to slow down. 

That's another important thing to keep in mind. When you spray it's not about how fast you need to move, but rather how slow. Once you get the eye for things, its much better to go slow than it is fast. 

On almost all our jobs we hardly ever backroll. I haven't done that in years. No need to, even on flat walls we've sprayed. The tip size, amount of paint, and some technique it will take care of itself. What's more important is to batch the paint when your done or run it through the machine into a can/bucket. That way the sheen will be the same for touch-ups versus buying a brand new gallon to do touch-ups. Just a tid bit.
*
In a nutshell:* Paint will level out as long as it is wet and has the chance to do so. 
So it's important to make sure there is a good amount of paint on the surface to level out and it will work out fine.


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

This is must read, must watch awesomeness. Thank you so much for doing this for those of us who have had questions, and so we can look, at pictures and videos. It is quite the process!!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Painting*

*Another tip*: When spraying the paint (not primer, but actual finish paint), spray the ceiling first and *perpendicular *to the door entering the room. 

If there are two doors at two different entry directions, then try to decide the principal door used for entry. If there is no clear answer, then just make sure you spray properly and you won't have to worry anyway.

The reason to do so perpendicular to the entry direction, is that IF there is a chance of spray tracks showing, they will be less obvious to the eye if they are perpendicular versus parallel. Granted if you have large and obvious spray tracks, nothing will hide that. You'll have to re-do the ceiling/wall.

Here is the perpendicular explanation in pictures:



















Also, when your done spraying, you can remove the masking film for easier clean-up. If it is very wet, let things tack up just a bit, then remove, as there is less chance of dripping. 

Removing masking film:










Finished spraying ceiling with paint (sheen consistency / full wetness is key to no spray tracks and proper leveling):


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Exactoman said:


> This is must read, must watch awesomeness. Thank you so much for doing this for those of us who have had questions, and so we can look, at pictures and videos. It is quite the process!!


Thank you for the kind words. 

After reading posts and being on here for some time I noticed a trend of people asking questions about spraying and also doing new construction. Since I/we (my team) do this on the norm, I figure I could help out by just showing how/what we do. Glad you found it useful, that's the goal!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Wall sheen - check your work*

Here is a wall shot after spraying. It's always good to check your work right afterwards to know if you will have problems later down the road (during the dry process).

If the spray tip is not throwing an even fan, more than likely that will show up when checking the sheen level when wet. You will more than likely see "finger lines" in the paint. When it dries, these lines will show up and you will have to re-do the wall or ceiling. 











A little different angle:










In the master bedroom, long wall when entering the room with direct sunlight. Key to have this wall (as well as others) sprayed properly. Notice they look the same as above, even though the above pictures are of the guest bedroom wall. Practice and technique will ensure more consistent results.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*New Construction - Paint Products*

I forgot to mention the products used, as this is also a commonly asked question

*Primer*: Sherwin Williams, Hi-Build Primer
*My Reason*: First and foremost it is, in my opinion, an economically good product. The description and end result is that it can be applied a little thicker, but also helps to hide sanding scratches from the tape texture guys. In my experience it does its job well and is a thicker primer, much more so than a regular PVA. 
PVA of course will almost always be your cheaper/cheapest primer, but won't hide minor defects such as sanding scratches as the consistency is more thin. 

*Paint:* Sherwin Williams, Eco-Select Zero VOC
*My Reason:* This and most jobs we do, will be egg-shell. 

I've sprayed practically all the interior paints that Sherwin makes from Harmony to Emerald. I actually just did a home with a living room/dining room/kitchen (~1,000 sqft) with Emerald. I can't tell the difference in the finished product versus the Eco-Select. The reason why I think this is, is because of our tip size. Emerald has good qualities too, but for looks purposes they are indistinguishable with our technique. 

From what I've been told Eco-Select is similar in par to the 400 series, between Promar 200 and Promar 400. I find it touches up fairly well, MUCH better so than Promar 400. Of course the touch-up depends on initial application, whether or not the person who applied it put it on thick enough. Also, it touch-up results depend on the person doing the touch-up and if they do it properly. 

Another benefit I found from using it is that within about an hour or so the paint "smell" is virtually non-existent. In a quick pinch if I have to spray a large section over again, prior to an owner getting home, I can do it within an hour or two and the owner can come in and not be able to detect an odor. For a higher-end client I had to re-spray multiple rooms due to electricians etc. and we did half the house (6 different colors, two tone rooms) prior to the owner getting home and they didn't even know we re-did most of the home. 

Of course the final reason would be: The price. For below $20 a gal, I find it's an over all good performance/good price point. It looks just like the higher-end paints when applied right and works for us. 

To each their own and of course and if a job requires a different type of paint then do what has to be done.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Would you still use the hi-build primer if you were rolling? For small remodels and things of that nature, or do you think it's main benefit is in being able to spray it on thick?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> Would you still use the hi-build primer if you were rolling? For small remodels and things of that nature, or do you think it's main benefit is in being able to spray it on thick?


I don't think I would use it for a rolling product on res. repaints. I have rolled it and it's so/so.

I would use a drywall primer (another version they have) or their multi surface primer instead. When we have to prime sections for touchups, I use Sherwin's multipurpose primer.

Another reason why I use it is because if we need to touch up metal doors or fiberglass doors, we have 1 primer to do it all versus carrying around individual specific products for the substrates. Makes things easier and my price is good for it, so why not. Runs me around $24 or so.



Sent from my SCH-I545 using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Thanks for all the info. I am definitely learning some tricks to apply to apartment painting. Maybe the 517 tip is holding me back more than I thought. I am definitely going to get those tips, as I have several jobs coming up that I can use them on.

I mentioned the stripes, because I always notice them when I spray with a 517 tip regardless of how thick I put it on the wall. Sherwin says: "have faith in the paint" and I just can't do that, so I backroll to play it safe. It is nice to see in action photos of someone succesfully having similar issues and them drying out.

What pump are you using? I never could dial in the 390, but the airlesco 540 has a better temper.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

To use a tip like a 1225 you need at least a graco 795 because anything smaller won't keep up. I doubt a 390 would even be able to make a single pass. I use my 1095 or 5000 for the cannon ball tips. I used to use the high build primer but stopped because it dried too flat and made finish coats more difficult. I use s/w wasatch primer a lot now, dries with a slight sheen and makes it easier for eggshells and semi-gloss. Ditto on the multi surface. I always spray vertical so with a 3' wand so I don't have to bend over and keeps paint spray off my shoes better.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

driftweed said:


> Thanks for all the info. I am definitely learning some tricks to apply to apartment painting. Maybe the 517 tip is holding me back more than I thought. I am definitely going to get those tips, as I have several jobs coming up that I can use them on.
> 
> I mentioned the stripes, because I always notice them when I spray with a 517 tip regardless of how thick I put it on the wall. Sherwin says: "have faith in the paint" and I just can't do that, so I backroll to play it safe. It is nice to see in action photos of someone succesfully having similar issues and them drying out.
> 
> What pump are you using? I never could dial in the 390, but the airlesco 540 has a better temper.



I spray with a 795 Graco. Like another poster said, something smaller like a 390 would be hard pressed to keep up with the amount of paint coming out of the tip. 

I too had / have a 395 and I found that a bigger tip did help, but I noticed that the machine was having a hard time keeping up with the paint. What ends up happening is that the machine will push the paint out, but the pressure at the tip will drop dramatically and not be able to keep a constant output. So I invested in a new 795 which was one of the best purchases I've made so far. 

I'm thinking of selling the 795 and re-investing that money into a 1095, something that is even stronger and can push elastomeric and other thick coatings without issue. The 795 is big enough to do the work, but with big tips and thick product, it too will struggle a bit, but still keep up decent enough.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

You just justified a much larger pump for me. Add that to the list for next year. Keep up the good work my man.:notworthy:

Guys, I have a multi-tone apartment to do this week. Ceilings flat white, trims/doors/bathrooms semi gloss white, closets eggshell white, Kitchen & dining room semi gloss almond, all other walls flat almond. Flooring to be replaced. 4 bedroom townhome 1 1/2 bath.

Want me to do the same? I have to have it done in 1 day. Tomorrow I will take an hour or so for prep, then wednesday it will be wide open ballz to the wallz production painting. Will be doing it solo.

I spray and backroll though.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

driftweed said:


> You just justified a much larger pump for me. Add that to the list for next year. Keep up the good work my man.:notworthy:
> 
> Guys, I have a multi-tone apartment to do this week. Ceilings flat white, trims/doors/bathrooms semi gloss white, closets eggshell white, Kitchen & dining room semi gloss almond, all other walls flat almond. Flooring to be replaced. 4 bedroom townhome 1 1/2 bath.
> 
> ...


You should try the jet roller


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I am debating that, but right now the budget will to tight for additional equipment until maybe the second quarter of the year. I was already pricing a 795 when I got the airlessco 540.


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## B-n-L Enterprises (Sep 10, 2014)

ttalbon said:


> It's a great idea and please make sure we see you opening the paint can at the beginning with your 5 in 1 or putty knife and closing it at the end with your foot or rubber mallet!


I do these two things all the time.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

*Final Sheen*

Sorry to bring up a dead post again, but I looked and noticed I didn't really have any finished photos after I sprayed. So I dug around found some video and a picture of the finished wall product (sheen consistency).

This shows that the sheen level is the same, no low (flat) or high spots, or spray tracks (lines), which show very badly with walls that have direct light.

I hope this helps.

-Coyote










https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CD5GOg3gM8I


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

woodcoyote said:


> Sorry to bring up a dead post again, but I looked and noticed I didn't really have any finished photos after I sprayed. So I dug around found some video and a picture of the finished wall product (sheen consistency).
> 
> This shows that the sheen level is the same, no low (flat) or high spots, or spray tracks (lines), which show very badly with walls that have direct light.
> 
> ...


I hate rounded corners so much. Makes colour changes hard/ugly, and repairs a major pain in the backside


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## capn26 (Aug 17, 2014)

Who ever thought they were a good idea? HO's here are in love with the things.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Yeah I agree they get banged and dented a lot. Especially from other trades or even just moving furniture in and out.

I guess we're just so use to grabbing the spackling / mud it's a quick fix. Takes longer for everything to dry than to physically fix it.


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