# Advanced or Impervo Latex



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We have used Impervo latex a bunch, Advanced not so much, maybe twice.

We have 11 doors, metal door casings and speedbase with a little crown to spray out. Right now we have an HVLP and Airless. I'm going to use the HVLP.
What is the biggest difference between these 2 products?


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

HVLP is to slow for production. Get a fine finish tip for you airless. Get a few different sizes so you can swap them out depending on what you are spraying.


----------



## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

It's sounds like you're familiar with the Impervex, so I would tend to lean toward what I'm more comfortable with using. Advanced is going to behave a little more like an alkyd, with a longer open time. Neither likes to be sprayed too heavy so be careful not to overload your corners. I like to do a lighter first coat, then a little heavier on final coats. Runs can be either cut out, or wet sanded easily.


----------



## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

Hi cdpainting!
I would use Advance with the airless and i use 410 fine finish tip size for doors when spraying first coat do a light tack than little heavier second coat as ExcelPaintingCo recommended. You will love the Advance.


----------



## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

Spayed with Advance Satin.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We have to use the HVLP our big sprayer is on another jobsite which is to far to go and grab right now. I know the HVLP will be a lot slower, other option is roller, these are flat doors no raised panels.

I have been reading on here about Advanced and figure it's time to try it.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We went with Advanced. I have a new paint to spray. It flowed nicely (even with broken ribs), covered good in 2 coats. I think a third coat will make them look great. We did thin it a little. Air compressor set at 40 psi, gun set at 20-22 psi.

It did take a little longer with the HVLP, ours from the factory is around a 3" fan. I do need to check into different needles and settings.


----------



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

With Advance, do you guys wait the full 18 hrs after your tack coat to spray the 2nd? I've never used Advance because of the insane recoat time listed.


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

804 Paint said:


> With Advance, do you guys wait the full 18 hrs after your tack coat to spray the 2nd? I've never used Advance because of the insane recoat time listed.


I have stacked the coats before not waiting the full 16-18 hours. I prefer to wait the full time between coats. Usually a coat each day. Advance is an awesome product and will feel like a true oil when cured. I have noticed that the few times that I have stacked the coats that the cured finish does not seem as slick feeling as when it is allowed to dry a day in between coats. Not much of a difference in feel and most customers would not know the difference but if you use it for a while you will be able to tell. The nice thing about advance is how nice it lays when brush, rolled, or sprayed and when minor touch-up is needed it can be accomplished without and flashing or obviousness.


----------



## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> We went with Advanced. I have a new paint to spray. It flowed nicely (even with broken ribs), covered good in 2 coats. I think a third coat will make them look great. We did thin it a little. Air compressor set at 40 psi, gun set at 20-22 psi.
> 
> It did take a little longer with the HVLP, ours from the factory is around a 3" fan. I do need to check into different needles and settings.



Regarding fan size with an hvlp. Check that the cap is tightened to perfectly flush with the tip of the needle you get the largest fan. Over tightening past flush reduces the fan, and sometimes distorts the fan shape.


----------



## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

804 Paint said:


> With Advance, do you guys wait the full 18 hrs after your tack coat to spray the 2nd? I've never used Advance because of the insane recoat time listed.



Tack coat in the morning, full coat at day's end, next day, light sand, tack and final coat.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Danahy said:


> Regarding fan size with an hvlp. Check that the cap is tightened to perfectly flush with the tip of the needle you get the largest fan. Over tightening past flush reduces the fan, and sometimes distorts the fan shape.


Seems like every time I get used to the HVLP we stop using it for months and I forget stuff. We recently hooked up with a contractor who has tons of NC stuff so we will spray away. I may ask Santa for an early Christmas gift and go for an Air Assisted sprayer.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Danahy said:


> Tack coat in the morning, full coat at day's end, next day, light sand, tack and final coat.


This place has the heat set at 85. We did our priming then tack coat, hit first coat, long day and doors sat for almost 10 hours so we hit a quick second coat.
I figured the inside temp being set so high, the doors right under a heat vent 10 hrs was like letting it sit over night at a lower temp. 

The doors were not hung, now they are and we will spray a 3rd coat today.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

804 Paint said:


> With Advance, do you guys wait the full 18 hrs after your tack coat to spray the 2nd? I've never used Advance because of the insane recoat time listed.


 I used to not wait the full time but after a while I noticed that recoating it too fast seemed to retard the curing process and that the film didn't get as hard as I thought it should. Now I always wait the full time except maybe for something like crown molding where film hardness isn't that important I might rush it. It will get hard in a 3-4 days if you let each coat dry, if you rush it can take weeks. Even them I'm not sure it develops full hardness.

I have noticed in some of the literature they are giving a recoat time of 8 hours for the satin Advance and 16 for the higher sheens. This was on an Advance pamphlet I got recently, but last time I checked the tds it still said 16 hrs for satin. 

It does seen like a PITA but it's just something that you have to account for. At least it doesn't stay tacky all day long like a traditional alkyd.


----------



## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

I wouldn't chance 2 full coats in a day, except one tack coat (lightly dust coated) then 1 full coat. With 8 hrs separation. 

Helps if u have other rooms to do while u wait between coats. Otherwise Advanced just wouldn't have a good enough ROI with such a long recoat time, otherwise I'd switch to cc or a Wb laq.


----------



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

Thanks guys. So it sounds like Advance is best used on jobs where the trim is an all-day job or you have _plenty_ else to do on site and not for smaller jobs (or smaller jobs priced accordingly for downtime). 

Being a spraying novice, I have to ask what the point of a 2nd tack coat is. I'd figure that hitting it with a tack coat and then a full coat (and a light sand) would be plenty to have the 2nd coat stick to, no? Are you finding the 2nd will run without a 2nd tack? And, if surface is primed, same thing? Here I'm figuring the paint will stick to the primer fine without a tack coat and that a tack coat would only be needed if you are coating a previously painted surface.

cd - why aren't two full coats sufficient for your doors?


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

804 Paint said:


> Thanks guys. So it sounds like Advance is best used on jobs where the trim is an all-day job or you have _plenty_ else to do on site and not for smaller jobs (or smaller jobs priced accordingly for downtime).
> 
> Being a spraying novice, I have to ask what the point of a 2nd tack coat is. I'd figure that hitting it with a tack coat and then a full coat (and a light sand) would be plenty to have the 2nd coat stick to, no? Are you finding the 2nd will run without a 2nd tack? And, if surface is primed, same thing? Here I'm figuring the paint will stick to the primer fine without a tack coat and that a tack coat would only be needed if you are coating a previously painted surface.
> 
> cd - why aren't two full coats sufficient for your doors?


We sprayed 2 coats while they were uninstalled. The carpenters didn't make a mess of them, they were extremely careful (thank god). I just didn't like the way they looked when standing off to the side. This place also has no lighting at all except out work lights (15 sets of double lights) and our HVLP guns filter was partially clogged so I figured since I had to hit the door frames might as well hit the doors again. I did price this job for 4 coats on the doors. At the time I had no idea what color they would be and wanted to make sure if they didn't cover good we had the extra $$$ included.

Doors are solid Birch
Zinzer oil based primer
Paint BM Ben Satin Decorators White.

Sanded in between coats.


----------



## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

Heya CD, I'm assuming the job is done now. It came out nice I hope? Did you get a chance to check how hard it was without allowing the full recommended dry time?

Seems like a lot of people like the Advance other than the dry time. It used to sag pretty badly, but I think it may have been reformulated since then.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Danahy said:


> Tack coat in the morning, full coat at day's end, next day, light sand, tack and final coat.



I Thought the whole purpose of a tack coat is you go back over it while it's tacky. Otherwise it's just a thin coat.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Woodford said:


> Heya CD, I'm assuming the job is done now. It came out nice I hope? Did you get a chance to check how hard it was without allowing the full recommended dry time?
> 
> Seems like a lot of people like the Advance other than the dry time. It used to sag pretty badly, but I think it may have been reformulated since then.


We Hit the first 2 coats on Jan 30, the final coats this past Wednesday. I know it was hard enough for the carpenters to man handle and install (these doors are heavy). I'm going in today again and will check the hardness. So far it seems good.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I decided not to go in today. My Dodge needed to get repaired (fan clutch blew again, fast one hour repair) and my snow blower blew up on the big storm we got so I just bought a beast of a machine and picking it up with in the hour.


----------



## DrakeB (Jun 6, 2011)

Have fun with the new toy!


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I'm not sure how much I will be using it, I played around with it earlier but my rib cage didn't like it (I really want them to heal up, it's so uncomfortable). My younger brother will be happy, he can use it instead of shoveling.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

The new/ used toy.

Yard-Man 26" 9hp with tracks. It's about all I know about it right now. Not sure of the age but overall condition is like new. The pic I am posting is NOT the one I bought but it's in the same condition.

It needs cables for the lever control for the shoot adjustment, headlight, I'm grabbing new belts tomorrow and an oil change.

I paid $300.00 for it. To repair my other one it's about the same cost but wouldn't be ready for 3-4 weeks. I may just buy a used motor, it sounds like the crank bearing let go and most likely ruined the engine.


----------



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

cdpainting said:


> The new/ used toy.
> 
> Yard-Man 26" 9hp with tracks. It's about all I know about it right now. Not sure of the age but overall condition is like new. The pic I am posting is NOT the one I bought but it's in the same condition.
> 
> ...



Just found out the new snow blower was made in 1995. This thing was not only put in a garage/shed. I don't think it was used a whole lot. All cables, engaging rods and headlight are all original.


----------



## williamh51272 (Feb 8, 2015)

I sprayed Advance with my 4 stage hvlp and got microbibbles and immediately went back to.my airless. I didn't have the right size needle that the hvlp recommended. .anybody know if that wouod cause the microbubbles?


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Hvlp is antiquated tech.


----------



## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

williamh51272 said:


> I sprayed Advance with my 4 stage hvlp and got microbibbles and immediately went back to.my airless. I didn't have the right size needle that the hvlp recommended. .anybody know if that wouod cause the microbubbles?


You need 5 stage and up to do the job. I have the Apollo 1050VR with Apollo 7500 Atomizer Gun still wasn't completely happy with the result.


----------

