# Help on finish for Ipe decking



## HORIZON (Apr 16, 2009)

Most of the time Ipe decks are left unfinish here.....we have a huge deck that he wants to see what we can do for a seal or finish.....what would you guys say? For smaller indoor stuff I Use tung oil finish, but I dont think thats a practical option. Thanks for your help or ideas


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

I think Mac Deco will jump in on this. I just did one using Penofin.

http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml

Cabot's Austrailian Oil is supposed to be a decent product also.

Just let them know that they will probably applying a coat every year.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

Cabot's Aus. Timber Oil is the first thing I thought of, but I've read mixed reviews about applying it over Ipe. Sorry to play devil's advocate, but people say that it never absorbs causing a sludge-like finish that ruined the wood.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> I think Mac Deco will jump in on this. I just did one using Penofin.
> 
> http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml
> 
> ...


Personally I like Penofin as well except for on hardwoods I think it turns the wood dark or black over time and needs to be done regularly. I have not used Cabots Aus timber oil and haven't heard anything good or bad about it really.

If you can get around where you are at, I would look into this stuff

http://www.armclark.com/


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

The trouble with the Penofin is the fumes,man its like painting with nail polish.I try like hell to avoid it.Cabot timber oil is thicker,and the fumes are no where near the light-headed in 10 min. Penofin!


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

HORIZON said:


> Most of the time Ipe decks are left unfinish here.....we have a huge deck that he wants to see what we can do for a seal or finish.....what would you guys say? For smaller indoor stuff I Use tung oil finish, but I dont think thats a practical option. Thanks for your help or ideas



Sikkens SRD or BM Hardwood Finish. Better than ATO IMO. Get your prep right and don't expect much longevity.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

painttofish said:


> Sikkens SRD or BM Hardwood Finish. Better than ATO IMO. Get your prep right and don't expect much longevity.


I haven't tried BM HW finish... and I never thought Sikkens worked well on Hardwoods and no with it being re-formulated I would try it on hard woods.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

We just did a kind of cost analysis for the customer. Sikkens vs Penofin. They had the sikkens done 3 years ago. It failed badly because it is a film building product that (IMO) does not stick well to Ipe.

Cost them about $1400.00 to do the deck when it was new. $1400.00 divided by 3 years cost them $466.66 per year.

We stripped the Sikkens off and put a coat of Penofin on for $1500.00. In less than 4 years they have $1900.00 invested in the decks appearence.

If they had started with Penofin or Cabot's or any other non-film building product they would have invested about $350 per year, every year. That is a total of $1400.00 for 4 years. 

We sold them on the *value* of changing products and doing it yearly. (and will probably be the company applying it)

Mac: Never heard of ArmClark. What made you choose that as a preferred product?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> We just did a kind of cost analysis for the customer. Sikkens vs Penofin. They had the sikkens done 3 years ago. It failed badly because it is a film building product that (IMO) does not stick well to Ipe.
> 
> Cost them about $1400.00 to do the deck when it was new. $1400.00 divided by 3 years cost them $466.66 per year.
> 
> ...


Which Sikkens did they use? I have not had film issue with SRD. As for Armstrong it was a product recommend to me from a deck guy who I have complete faith in that he knows what he is doing. I have only use it once so far and was impressed.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

They are not sure. (which also means they may not be right) I don't remember SRD building a film like what was on the deck. Maybe they put two coats on, maybe the customer is wrong.

Do know the company that built it. They prefer Sikkens products. That does not mean it was what was used. Whatever it was laughed at stripper, and I wound up sanding the deck.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

ParagonVA said:


> Cabot's Aus. Timber Oil is the first thing I thought of, but I've read mixed reviews about applying it over Ipe. Sorry to play devil's advocate, but people say that it never absorbs causing a sludge-like finish that ruined the wood.


Might be like Penofin. Apply the product, let it soak for a while, then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. (or box of rags)


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> They are not sure. (which also means they may not be right) I don't remember SRD building a film like what was on the deck. Maybe they put two coats on, maybe the customer is wrong.
> 
> Do know the company that built it. They prefer Sikkens products. That does not mean it was what was used. Whatever it was laughed at stripper, and I wound up sanding the deck.


Yeah it might be Sikkens DEK which is suppose to coat all six sides.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> We just did a kind of cost analysis for the customer. Sikkens vs Penofin. They had the sikkens done 3 years ago. It failed badly because it is a film building product that (IMO) does not stick well to Ipe.
> 
> Cost them about $1400.00 to do the deck when it was new. $1400.00 divided by 3 years cost them $466.66 per year.
> 
> ...


Sikkens _*SRD*_ is not film forming. It is a penetrating oil like Cabot's ATO or any other product recommended for hardwoods (multiple). Like any Penetrating oil two coats will create failure. Hardwood exotics need to be maintained annually or if the conditions and prep are perfect bi-annually.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> I haven't tried BM HW finish... and I never thought Sikkens worked well on Hardwoods and no with it being re-formulated I would try it on hard woods.



I guess it depends on your expectations of deck stains working well on hardwoods. No SRD re-formulation here that I know of...


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> Mac: Never heard of ArmClark. What made you choose that as a preferred product?


I can't offer any advice on the hardwoods as they are rare here at the beach. I have been liking the Armstrong Clark stains as well though. I see a lot of the guys doing hardwoods using the Armstrong Clark or Readyseal as there preferred stain.


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