# SW ProClassic



## Macsimus (Jun 24, 2008)

Has anyone else used this product? It is a waterborne enamel. My local SW has it on sale for like $11 a gallon. It is really a steal, it normally goes for around $30. I find it extremely difficult to brush. It is very sticky, and if you put it on a little heavy it runs. However, it looks awesome when it dries. I can hardly believe it. The whole time I am putting it on I am saying to myself how much I hate the stuff, but then it comes out looking fantastic. Anyone else have any experience with this product?


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## PrecisionPainting (Feb 3, 2009)

I use it all the time for trim, I try to spray as much as I can with it. If its thick add little water to it


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## 1977corey (Feb 27, 2009)

Its okay......you kinda got to work quickly when brushing or it does tend to get sticky on you. Spraying is better when you can, but i find that it is seriously temperature sensitive depending on the humidity ( I have had to turn doors upside down to prevent sagging, and use a space fan )
$11 a gallon is a STEAL. Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo is my ultimate favorite but pricey. Have you ever used oil-based Proclassic? ...nice stuff


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I don't like it at all to thick, there are better waterborne trim paints.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

$11 a gallon is a steal. Buy it up. I have used both the oil and waterborne. The oil can produce top quality results if you don't mind the set up and clean up. I would also agree that the best way to apply it is with a sprayer. I just used some of the waterborne this past week and talked with my sales rep about thinning it to spray. He said it is not necessary to thin it if your sprayer can handle it, I use a CS 9100 HVLP four stage turbine that will blow about anything so I only put a minimal amount of water in. However, he said you can thin it to no more than 10% water to product or it too will sag.


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## PrecisionPainting (Feb 3, 2009)

I never have a problem with ProClassic, but then again I use it on a daily basis. I used valspar that a client wanted and that wasnt too bad either.


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## traditions2 (Feb 4, 2009)

andyman,
What size needle are you using to shoot proclassic out of the 9100? I have one and cant get any latex to spray through it.


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## Joewho (Apr 17, 2007)

If I saw a gallon of Pro Classic for $11 I'd wonder what was wrong with it.

You have to work it quickly and thoroughly, then trust it to dry to a nice finish.


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## Macsimus (Jun 24, 2008)

I just checked the receipt, it is $12.60 a gallon at the Worcester, MA commercial store. I just used it again, for the second time in a couple weeks. I am really starting to let the results win over. The stuff defies logic compared to how sticky it goes on. It looks great and seems to dry much harder than say superpaint or aguaglo. I will certainly keep using it at this price. 


Thanks for all the feedback everyone.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

12.60 a gallon sounds like a great deal.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

Yeah that's a sweet deal. I've used it a few times and like it alot. :thumbsup:


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Macsimus said:


> I just checked the receipt, it is $12.60 a gallon at the Worcester, MA commercial store. I just used it again, for the second time in a couple weeks. I am really starting to let the results win over. The stuff defies logic compared to how sticky it goes on. It looks great and seems to dry much harder than say superpaint or aguaglo. I will certainly keep using it at this price.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback everyone.


When it goes off sale, try Muralo's Ultra. It is what I replaced Pro Classic with. Dries hard, sands easy (not that I ever get any runs :blink
and is easier to apply.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> When it goes off sale, try Muralo's Ultra. It is what I replaced Pro Classic with. Dries hard, sands easy (not that I ever get any runs :blink
> and is easier to apply.



:thumbsup:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

We use pro classic semi gloss on 90 % of our trim I've never seen it that cheap....Send us 20 gallons


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Andyman said:


> $11 a gallon is a steal. Buy it up. I have used both the oil and waterborne. The oil can produce top quality results if you don't mind the set up and clean up. I would also agree that the best way to apply it is with a sprayer. I just used some of the waterborne this past week and talked with my sales rep about thinning it to spray. He said it is not necessary to thin it if your sprayer can handle it, I use a CS 9100 HVLP four stage turbine that will blow about anything so I only put a minimal amount of water in. However, he said you can thin it to no more than 10% water to product or it too will sag.


Andy, if you can figure a way to shoot proclassic through a 9100 without thinning it 50-60% let me know how you did it and which projector set etc. That would be awesome


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Traditions & Jack- I am shooting ProClassic through the stock gun that came with my 9100. I'm not sure what needle size it is actually. I put a 'shot' of H2O in my cup along with ProH2O Chenille White 1120 and blew all the trim plus the cabinets and drawer fronts in a bathroom and it turned out great! I produced a glass like finish with no problem and thats no BS. The HO is very pickey so if it didn't produce anything but that I would have not gotten paid. I would use it again, no questions at all. A $1000 sprayer produced like it should. I could have shot it unthinned. Not sure why you all can't get it to blow... I dialed it in and I had no problems.


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## traditions2 (Feb 4, 2009)

I can't get a regular latex to blow through. I just can't imagine the proclassic going through. Sweet if it is working though.:thumbup:


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## MR.X (Mar 9, 2009)

i love proclassic waterborne and oil based ...besides the funky smell of the waterborne the only other thing noticable is drytime little penetrol or floetrol works wonders...


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

smells like chocolate.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Love the stuff! It smells good, taste good and makes for a great scent for your laundry.... :thumbsup:

I don't use anything else...


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Welcome back Jason, long time no post. How business?


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Welcome back Jason, long time no post. How business?


Business is getting it's normal slow start for this time of year. I have booked 2 exteriors and waiting for the weather to change. Painting solo this year. It's all good.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

Add some XIM latex extender for better flow. Not to much.............


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

I just used the ProClassic Latex over the past few days and have mixed feelings about it. I was doing a super customized house with a bunch of cabinets, built-ins, crown, etc.. I had all surfaces primed with SW's odorless, oil-based primer, (pro block or something). I sanded down all trim th next day, (and man that stuff sands SO smooth), vacuumed everything, strained the paint, and away I went. That paint is so thick, it was hard to get good floetry, so I added a bit of Floetrol through a strainer. After it dried, all surfaces felt bumpy- as if grains of sand had fallen into the paint. Assuming that, the next day I lightly sanded those areas again and re-strained the paint without adding Floetrol. This time I added a bit of water, but there was probably a bit of residual Floetrol that was poured back into gallon on the first day. The same thing happened again! The paint dried to a perfect and smooth-looking luster, but the hard-textured bumps were there again. Perhaps the paint didn't react well with the Floetrol? I've never had a problem with it before...I dunno man.

What do you all have in mind for this dilemma?


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

I have never added anything to Proclassic. Brush it, roll it or spray it... I like it all around.

Not sure what would have caused your issue. ProClassic is it's own style of paint and takes some getting used too... It isn't for the amateur painter or home owner (not implying you are, ParagonVA)....


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## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

The waterborne is not bad, but I do prefer the oil version. I just did a master bedroom trim and door redo, due to a smuck that brushed everything the first go round with a broom, from what I can tell. Sanding between two coats and it is goregous. Stuff is like iron, and it goes on like liquid silk.


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## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

sanded down all trim th next day, (and man that stuff sands SO smooth), vacuumed everything, strained the paint, and away I went.

You didn't mention wipeing down the vacumed surface; I always use tack rag.
Could this be the problem? 
Sage


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I will go with the XIM extender too- Once I discovered that I haven't used floetrol for anything.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

sage said:


> sanded down all trim th next day, (and man that stuff sands SO smooth), vacuumed everything, strained the paint, and away I went.
> 
> You didn't mention wipeing down the vacumed surface; I always use tack rag.
> Could this be the problem?
> Sage


I wiped down with a damp cloth. 

Not sure what the issue is..this is pretty weird. I'll be painting the next area with the same color scheme and plan on using a new gallon of Pro Classic, so we'll see. The original is almost gone anyway and I'll need it to save for touch up. I might try the extender from now on instead of the Floetrol as per your all's advice. I've used it too in the past and was happy with it, so why not?. The paint just drags way too much over the chalky oil-based primer by itself.

I did use the Pro Classic Alkyd in the same room on the shelves, and that dried down like glass.

any other thoughts?
-jt


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## YubaPaintPro (Mar 2, 2008)

Hey all,
for those of you w/in lets say 100 miles of a Kelly-Moore store and you want to try a product that I think will have you throwing rocks @ any other product for doors/trim, send me a PM.

I will get you in touch w/ the closest store/rep and get our DuraPoxy in your rig. Please don't get me wrong, I know ProCxxxxxx works well for you, but I know DuraPoxy has both wet/dry properties that are unmatched, IMO.

I have painters that are loyal to my competition, but will chose DuraPoxy every time.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> I did use the Pro Classic Alkyd in the same room on the shelves, and that dried down like glass.
> 
> any other thoughts?
> -jt


Always use alkyd/oil paint for trim, and stay away from PC WB.



YubaPaintPro said:


> I have painters that are loyal to my competition, but will chose DuraPoxy every time.


Never heard of Kelly paint.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> Always use alkyd/oil paint for trim, and stay away from PC WB.
> 
> 
> 
> Never heard of Kelly paint.


Wise, I do alot of work for MD's, and most of them dont want alkyd/oils used in their homes, so I use PCWB. What do you use when they specify they dont want oils in the house?


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Wolfgang said:


> Wise, I do alot of work for MD's, and most of them dont want alkyd/oils used in their homes, so I use PCWB. What do you use when they specify they dont want oils in the house?


I use water base ProClassic, I have not had a problem yet.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

it's too hard here in suburban DC to use oil anymore, as they are phasing it out ever since Jan 1st 2007 I believe. There are not a lot of variations of it, but mostly we can only get it in quarts. I've had plenty of requests to convert all trim, which is what I'm doing on my current job. I've heard that they will try to rid of oil all together some day...

I'll have to post back next week to see if I had better luck with a new gallon of PC latex.

-jt


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## YubaPaintPro (Mar 2, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> Always use alkyd/oil paint for trim, and stay away from PC WB.
> 
> Never heard of Kelly paint.


Hey Wise,
sorry I should've added this link! We have a store in Tulsa, OK that I can get you in contact w/, I know it's 4hrs. The rep there is really good and knowledgeable! I am confident that they will be happy to get material to you or meet you somehwere in between.

http://www.kellymoore.com/
http://www.kellymoore.com/site/storesbystate/OK
http://www.kellymoore.com/tds/1685TDS.pdf


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## Cascade Painting (Mar 29, 2009)

YubaPaintPro said:


> Hey Wise,
> sorry I should've added this link! We have a store in Tulsa, OK that I can get you in contact w/, I know it's 4hrs. The rep there is really good and knowledgeable! I am confident that they will be happy to get material to you or meet you somehwere in between.
> 
> http://www.kellymoore.com/
> ...


I have not used the Kelly-Moore Dura-Proxy, I use Columbia Acry-Shield on millpacks. I used to love Kelly-Moore exterior paints, probably my favorite exterior paints. But the nearest Kelly-Moore is about an hour away (I live on Whidbey Island, WA and the nearest KM is in Bellingham, WA) so I use our local paint products (Columbia, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams). I am surprised at everyone's glee over SW Pro-Classic, it's OK but it is not _great _and it is nowhere near as good as Columbia's product in my opinion.


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## Cascade Painting (Mar 29, 2009)

traditions2 said:


> andyman,
> What size needle are you using to shoot proclassic out of the 9100? I have one and cant get any latex to spray through it.


You have to get the tips made for latex. I don't use an HVLP for spraying trim work, I use an airless with a fine finish tip. I'd imagine that the HVLP would work good for doors and/or cabinets but for an entire millpack an HVLP (at least the 9100 and similar types) is burdensome in my opinion.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Cascade Painting said:


> ... I use an airless with a fine finish tip.


Same here. 

I have sprayed ProClassic more than I have applied it by brush and roller.


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## 1977corey (Feb 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Same here.
> 
> I have sprayed ProClassic more than I have applied it by brush and roller.


i like to use Graco 412 FineFinish for EVERYTHING i spray interior( with respect to doors/trim and cabinetry) and when they are blown,(closets,garages) i like to use them outside, or i use 415 latex tip outside.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

sage said:


> sanded down all trim th next day, (and man that stuff sands SO smooth), vacuumed everything, strained the paint, and away I went.
> 
> You didn't mention wipeing down the vacumed surface; I always use tack rag.
> Could this be the problem?
> Sage


Alright, so I said I'd post back once I used a new gallon of Pro Classic, and here we are. I think I narrowed down the problem I was having with the gritty finish. I started with the same routine as mentioned before but without the Floetrol. After I wiped down the windows that I started on with a damp cloth, I ran my finger over the surface to check it out. Sure enough, the primer seemed to be crumbling up, if you will, very slightly in my fingers. The primer was not peeling or blistering in any way, this was just a very slight problem of some sort. The texture I was getting before must have been a result of the primer not being wiped down well enough and the paint was reacting with it causing those hardened spots. I used the pro block primer by SW, odorless, oil-base. That stuff sands very well, but the surface is left very powdery. I assume the Floetrol had nothing to do with it at all.

So I remembered Sage's post about the tack rags, and used the ones I had in the van for doing poly work. That seemed to do the trick, as the finish product this time was nice and smooth as it should be. Now I LOVE the PC Latex.

I asked for Odorless Cover Stain tinted to my top color, and the guy brought out that Pro Block without even informing me first. I just want my Cover Stain back!! Gimme back that Cover Stain, gimme that Stain!! (a la McDonald's filet o' fish commercial)

Anyway, thought you all would like to know the outcome. I've never had to use a tack rag on primed trim before, a vacuum and damp cloth usually does the trick. Thanks to Sage for the advice.

-jt


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## joe a (Oct 13, 2011)

*durapoxy peeling*

Has any one had a problem with durapoxy not sticking to laquer undercoater, we dust it blow it off with a compressor then wipe it down with a clean damp microfiber rag , then check our had to see it it's clean then we know the surface is clean , but after two to three weeks you can fingernail the durapoxy right off, anyone else had an issue like this?
Joe


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Have not used much durapoxy but i was noticing how quickly it flashes and dries. I've been holding out on a review of it but my gut instinct is to think it dries so hard and fast it may have long term adhesion issues. Sorry to hear this, I really liked working with it on a few trim packs....


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

ParagonVA said:


> I wiped down with a damp cloth.
> 
> Not sure what the issue is..this is pretty weird. I'll be painting the next area with the same color scheme and plan on using a new gallon of Pro Classic, so we'll see. The original is almost gone anyway and I'll need it to save for touch up. I might try the extender from now on instead of the Floetrol as per your all's advice. I've used it too in the past and was happy with it, so why not?. The paint just drags way too much over the chalky oil-based primer by itself.
> 
> ...



Bump up a sheen. Reformulatwd PC has pissed me off for a while. Hard as nails and all that but seeding is a major defect in the formula. Assume a higher sheen and it will act like the next lower sheen.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

I've used the Proclassic Alkyd-Acrylic Satin and Semigloss.All I can say is that I can achieve betters results with a primer than with this crap.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I've used the Proclassic Alkyd-Acrylic Satin and Semigloss.All I can say is that I can achieve betters results with a primer than with this crap.



the weird thing is the 200 works and looks way better than the PC... 


And 


I 

agree....


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

Paradigmzz said:


> the weird thing is the 200 works and looks way better than the 200....
> 
> And
> 
> ...


Is this a typo


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Julian&co said:


> Is this a typo


I think they meant the 200 hybrid is better than the hybrid pro classic. I havent tried the 200 yet, but a friend says it is great.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I've used the Proclassic Alkyd-Acrylic Satin and Semigloss.All I can say is that I can achieve betters results with a primer than with this crap.


I sprayed about 15 doors with this stuff and was not impressed. The dry time is wayyyyyyy to long. I'll stick to the waterborne ProClassic,


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

I havent been impressed by any alkyd/acrylics yet, they dont seen any tougher then a straight acrylic and are too thin IMO.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

Damon T said:


> I think they meant the 200 hybrid is better than the hybrid pro classic. I havent tried the 200 yet, but a friend says it is great.


Ahh I was thinking the same thing, I have sprayed 2 gallons and loved it!! I sprayed eggshell and it was a satin in my opinion rep said eggshell was same as satin... I don't get that why are Sw sheens so different from everyone else's??


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Julian&co said:


> I don't get that why are Sw sheens so different from everyone else's??


Not only different from everybody else, but so different from their different lines... Seriously. You can get egshel in Harmony but not in Cashmere, or you can Satin in HGTV but not in Harmony. It becomes as frustrating to figure out what product has what sheen let alone what product from their hundreds of paints to use for any given situation. I've nearly got it nailed down, then something changes... but why does that have to take 5 yrs of exclusive purchasing to figure it all out? I've gone to using Benjamin Moore now... Hopefully my headaches will cease.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Not only different from everybody else, but so different from their different lines... Seriously. You can get egshel in Harmony but not in Cashmere, or you can Satin in HGTV but not in Harmony. It becomes as frustrating to figure out what product has what sheen let alone what product from their hundreds of paints to use for any given situation. I've nearly got it nailed down, then something changes... but why does that have to take 5 yrs of exclusive purchasing to figure it all out? I've gone to using Benjamin Moore now... Hopefully my headaches will cease.


It's such a pain in the a$$.. they make good coatings for the most part I really dont get it. I think each product line maybe aside from industrial coatings should be available in Flat, Eggshell, Satin and Semi... Eggshell is NOT satin errrr!


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

Yeah it does suck when you put Pro Classis Semi on the trim and Duration Satin on the walls and your walls have more sheen then your trim.


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## Nephew Sherwin (Oct 7, 2011)

In Demand said:


> Yeah it does suck when you put Pro Classis Semi on the trim and Duration Satin on the walls and your walls have more sheen then your trim.


From my side of the counter, it is frustrating as well, its hard to explain to customers are sheens. I agree our duration home satin is more like a semigloss and our pc semigloss is more like an egshel.


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