# Butt joints in sideing



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

How do you prep them to keep them from cracking out again. Ive been using elastomeric caulking, but it seem that it is not working. I was going to scrape/clean, prime and try big stretch but thought I'd ask what others do. here is a pic of a recent house that was painted.


----------



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I have used big stretch caulking but what happened than was it still spread only the caulking stretched but the paint did not so there was white caulking showing. When the spring came around again it sealed up. I do not think there is much you can really do.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I was caulking masonite joints this afternoon wondering the same thing. Also wondering if anyone here is able to hide the joints completely and how?


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Gabe, I really don't think there is much you can do, sure you can caulk it and it will look good. The problem is the siding will expand, shrink thus making what ever you put there pop out and look like crap. If they are like the ones in your picture then I would just sand smooth and try to fill with the finish paint. One of the things I bring up when doing a walk through with potential customers and explain to them.

Glad you brought this up, maybe somebody has found a solution.

Pat


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Ya, maybe it's best not to fill it in. Just clean and seal the edges, I think that would be best, as the caulking/filler will just break open again. I would rather see a open joint than a cracked out joint exposing the white caulking/filler. I think I will suggest that to the home owner. 

I emailed them with a link to this thread, so they could see how the discussion would go. You guys are confirming what I told them. 

What a great use of this forum! PT added to my customer support :thumbup:


----------



## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Great topic. I agree its best not to caulk them if they havent been cauked before. I have yet to find a solution myself. I generally use SW Shermax on most my jobs. I have tried caulking them twice, and everything else. Tried Big Stretch, and as already mentioned....caulk stretches but the paint diesnt.


----------



## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

No caulk. The wood needs to expand and contract. If the seams are staggered and the reveal is correct it will be weather tight just like roof shingles.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I also concur with the no caulk school of thought, for the same reasons - wood expands and contracts.

I don't ever remember caulking being an option. When the siding is installed correctly, there should be no issues with leaks. 

Here in NE, siding will prolly go through greater expansion/contraction ranges because of our greater shifts in temperature and humidity. The joints are all part of the clapboard beauty.


----------



## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

yup no caulking .........best to clean them all out if the moneys provided then go with the natural look of open joints............


----------



## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

Gabe, I think I've tried just about everything. I agree with all the above posts. In my old house, we had door casings made from 1x4's. The mitered corner cuts were never tight and I filled and scraped and filled again with everything for the exception of bubblegum. They always recracked.


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> How do you prep them to keep them from cracking out again. Ive been using elastomeric caulking, but it seem that it is not working. I was going to scrape/clean, prime and try big stretch but thought I'd ask what others do. here is a pic of a recent house that was painted.


SW SherMax :thumbup:


----------



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

They do sell big stretch in different colors if you get one close to the color your painting it that will help hide it some. I still think I would caulk it with some type of stretchable caulking other wise water might get in and rot the siding but that is just my opinion.


----------



## bopaints (Jun 25, 2011)

I have done a bunch of these in the new construction phase. i told the builders if we caulk them this would happen. They didnt believe me so we caulked them. Then it happened. The solution for us was; Flash the but joints with metal flashing at time of installation.  Problem solved. I know this doesnt help much but these joints can be a thorn in your side.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

bopaints said:


> The solution for us was; Flash the but joints with metal flashing at time of installation.



This must have been residential, I can see in my mind the reaction when I suggest this to the owner of a 300 unit low income apartment complex.


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> SW SherMax :thumbup:


SherMax is similar to what I use, it just SW version of elastomeric caulk. 

I haven't used Big Stretch before, or look at the specs of it. For all I know it just another elastimerc caulk.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

The best solution is to sweep up all the construction dust and have your guys spit into it until you can force it into the gaps. :jester:


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Gibberish45 said:


> The best solution is to sweep up all the construction dust and have your guys spit into it until you can force it into the gaps. :jester:


Sounds like a bunch of Gibberish


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

There needs to be a barrier on the backside of the siding so no weatherization gets into the crack. It used to be there was nothing back there and the need for caulk came about. Now it is different and siding is installed with a metal flashing at the butt joint to inhibit weather elements and gives the home more protection and also provided a cure to the problem of caulking as this way of installation does not require it. Caulk is only to make up space where the siding did not exists, now the flashing does that. 

I recommend caulking if there is nothing behind the siding in the joint to help keep a possible warranty issue and at minimum to keep the home weather tight regardless of cosmetics. 

But yeah, Big Stretch is all I use.


----------



## Charisb (Jun 9, 2009)

*Don't do it!*

Official word on the street from the maker of Big Stretch (that's me): DON'T CAULK BUTT JOINTS unless you feel like getting frustrated and re-doing it frequently :thumbsup:. There's not a caulk in the world (so far) that will perform well in those joints because of the movement they see, combined with the fact that those joints don't allow for proper joint design (2 point adhesion and enough caulking material in the joint are the keys, folks). If you want more details on proper joint design, PM me with an email address and I'll send you a fun article on it.

If you feel like using our product or any other to seal those butt joints, we will gladly have your business. Just know that you'll be putting a lot of time and energy into something that will just have to be re-done And from what I hear, that's not something most contractors like to do :no:.

Thanks! Happy caulking!


----------



## LA Painter (Jul 28, 2009)

The problem is that it starts with the carpenter - who is there long before the painters arrive. If they don’t install back flashing, or cut nice looking joints (telling the HO the painter will fix it) they everyone is kinda screwed. It all starts with a GOOD installation.


----------



## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

Contractors are phasing out caulking of butt joints around here since hardiboard does not require it for the warranty so why do it, the prepainted hardiboard siding comes with quad caulk tinted to match, then we caulk the buttjoints with that so when it expands/contracts there is no white crack that will appear, I am against the idea of caulking without painting over it but I have been seeing it more and more, you can get powertint caulking at SW in 1 gal cans, tinted to match, if you caulk with that first then paint over it, you will not see a white crack after it flexs


----------

