# Antique Clock Faces - something different



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

from an American Galley Clock - c.1880 (extremely rare)

One of my clients repairs old clocks. Sometimes he needs new parts artificially aged to blend with the original clock.

Today he brought me three clock dials: Two of them (below) were newly printed on a bright white paper, the other one (above) was painted with enamels, but needed to be aged.




































German Box Clock (Rare) c.1910 - Ammonia-fumed Oak.


----------



## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

Cool project! Always fun to do something other than the typical stuff. What type of finishes did you use on those things?


----------



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

fromthenorthwest said:


> Cool project! Always fun to do something other than the typical stuff. What type of finishes did you use on those things?


Definitely fun to do something outside of the typical stuff!

I have experimented with a few different finishes, but do not have a system yet. The client has at least three different materials he uses for dials: Paper, vinyl, and painted enamel.

TransFast water-soluble dyes work well through an airbrush, and give predictable results on paper. The paper dials are the easiest to "tea stain" some realistic looking age, but also easy to over-shoot the color. I ruined one a while back by over-doing it, and he had to start over.

Vinyl is the most challenging- nothing wants to stick to the surface. It also the hardest to make look natural, because vinyl doesn't look like an old material (maybe resembles a porcelain dial). In the past I have tried diluting waterbased deck stains to age vinyl, and that worked pretty well. I can tweak the color with Mixol universal colorants.


----------



## thepm4 (May 18, 2020)

Holland said:


> Definitely fun to do something outside of the typical stuff!
> 
> I have experimented with a few different finishes, but do not have a system yet. The client has at least three different materials he uses for dials: Paper, vinyl, and painted enamel.
> 
> ...


Was thinking about the vinyl challenge...any "micro-sanding" possible?
Using a grit like 800 or 1200...maybe 600 (assuming numbers are already on..yes?)...
Since your are aging the dial, what you might think is a sanding mis-hap will most likely be unnoticeable after glaze app.

You've probably considered this , but what about tinted shellac? I have no experience with it but I'm sure there is a certain person who would know.

I've tinted stuff like Stays Clear with Mixols and nothing else, but not experienced with applying to vinyl.

Interesting project for sure


----------



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

thepm4 said:


> Was thinking about the vinyl challenge...any "micro-sanding" possible?
> Using a grit like 800 or 1200...maybe 600 (assuming numbers are already on..yes?)...
> Since your are aging the dial, what you might think is a sanding mis-hap will most likely be unnoticeable after glaze app.
> 
> ...


Tinted shellac. That’s so crazy it just might work! I didn’t even think about it. Could spray multiple thinned layers just like the water, maybe…rather than one heavy coat where more chance of messing it up.

I don’t think much ( if any) sanding is possible, the letters are printed on, but might improve the look. good ideas.


----------



## thepm4 (May 18, 2020)

You can use Mixol colorants in shellac...


----------



## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I’ve used alcohol soluble dye powders by WD Lockwood to tint shellac for toning and patinas….best to use metal complex dyes which are less prone to fading. Most dyes are photosensitive and experience moderate to severe fading in the presence of UV light. I’ve used dye powders in shellac to tone vinyl and fiberglass, and the color bleached out pretty severely in some instances. Ethanol in SealCoat may also have a slight impact on vinyl…not certain if it would cause it to swell.


----------



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

These were done a while back. They were parts to a very ornate clock.

The top is the original aged brass piece, the bottom are both plastic parts that were molded from the original and needed to match well enough to blend.

The clock was so busy, he said it only had to be a close match (not perfect) because there was so much going on in the clock it wouldn’t be noticeable. The bottom one was rejected (practice piece) because the plastic color was off.

lol, I used water-based deck stain for this one too. Had some sitting around that was the right color, and adhered very well, could be glazed.


----------



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Redux said:


> I’ve used alcohol soluble dye powders by WD Lockwood to tint shellac for toning and patinas….best to use metal complex dyes which are less prone to fading. Most dyes are photosensitive and experience moderate to severe fading in the presence of UV light. I’ve used dye powders in shellac to tone vinyl and fiberglass, and the color bleached out pretty severely in some instances. Ethanol in SealCoat may also have a slight impact on vinyl…not certain if it would cause it to swell.


thanks @Redux.

If he brings any more white vinyl dials I will do some experiments before jumping in. I almost always have SealCoat sitting around, and I think it is a suggestion worth looking into-the color is close to aged white already.

im guessing many of the clocks of that vintage (at or pre-19th century), used shellac as their clear coat for the wood? Do you have any info about what was typical?

Looks like WDLockwood has metal complex dyes now.


----------



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Following that train of thought, I wonder if a quart of untinted clear base satin paint would work? Why not? It could be tinted to a an almost clear tint, and thinned to spray.
WD Lockwood metals or Mixol?


----------



## thepm4 (May 18, 2020)

I would go with what I had...maybe the only/best way to find out is to do and keep tabs how it performs, or make extras.. It's such a singular/unique situation.

Maybe end placement of the g-clock will be good info too....Heavy UV to non-UV...They tend to be placed once and rarely moved...kinda like pianos. Most of the placements that come to my mind, are low-UV to no-UV.


----------

