# Switching deck stain and color on previously stained deck



## PremierPainting (Apr 24, 2014)

My customer has a 5 year old deck that was coated two times since being built with semi transparent flood siding stain. They are not happy with the color nor how quickly the deck faded. The deck still has a lot of stain on it but is not uniform because its shaded on half and exposed on the other half. Basically I want to know; A. Do I have to strip all the stain before recoating to achieve a uniform coat, B. will the stain strip off especially in the areas where it is still In good shape. I've stained plenty of decks but either used the same product it previously had, or stained new, and stained old decks where stain was basically gone. Just never been faced with restaining an already decent looking deck and wondering what my options are and peoples input. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## bmoorecl (May 29, 2013)

*deck stain*

If the HO is not happy with,th stain color,or lasting performance.strip it all off.Replace it,with a stain of their choose.They don't like th color,or performace,Thats two strikes on th deck already.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

I would completely strip the deck of a much stain and resins as possible, give it a light acid wash (oxalic acid) give it a light sand after that, then stain away

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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

All I can advise is:

1. Bid it very high. Two coats of a waterborne stain which has Emulsabond in it? Tough strip is an understatament and yes, it has to be stripped and neutralized caustic/acid.

2. Order professional chemicals. Store bought stuff is gonna bead up on the surface and laugh at you. 

As a third I would probably tell you to wear safety gear because the mix to take that off burns on contact and will give you third degree burns in 30 minutes if not flushed. But, you already knew that.


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## PremierPainting (Apr 24, 2014)

*Thank you*

I appreciate the info guys, have you got a favorite deck stripper you use? And as far as the acid wash would you power wash it off right after applying or let it sit?


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

PremierPainting said:


> I appreciate the info guys, have you got a favorite deck stripper you use? And as far as the acid wash would you power wash it off right after applying or let it sit?


For something like that: HD-80 mixed 8 oz per gallon http://www.theprosealerstore.com/HD80.htm

or, if it verifies as a pure acrylic: http://eacochem.com/ProductDetails/productDetails_AcryliStrip.htm

As soon as you are done stripping with a caustic like HD-80, follow immediately while still wet with http://www.pressuretek.com/f8nubr.html. 

When an acid meets a strong caustic it can create salts which will dry as a white haze and hamper the final finish. You can leave the acid on for five minutes then do a final rinse.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

PremierPainting said:


> I appreciate the info guys, have you got a favorite deck stripper you use? And as far as the acid wash would you power wash it off right after applying or let it sit?


I sure circa 1850 and wash with methyl hydrate to neutralize it, but because your doing an entire deck I would rent a floor sander from home dept (don't tell them it's for a deck). Make site you set any nails first, or tighten any screws. Add for the acid, let it sit for no more than a couple hours, then wash off with a hose. I personally don't like pressure washing decks that are going to be stained.

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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

When you say 8oz per gallon is that weight or liquid oz? There site doesn't say. And how many 8oz do you get per bucket? (any size)


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Hines Painting said:


> When you say 8oz per gallon is that weight or liquid oz? There site doesn't say. And how many 8oz do you get per bucket? (any size)


We stopped doing decks, but Flood Co Wood Cleaner (formerly Dekswood) is an Oxalic-acid based cleaner. When we compared prices, that was cheaper to use than buying tech-grade Oxalic acid and making up the solution from scratch.

Hines, that's 8oz/liter, not per gallon.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Hines Painting said:


> When you say 8oz per gallon is that weight or liquid oz? There site doesn't say. And how many 8oz do you get per bucket? (any size)



8 oz of powder weight per gallon of water. (40 oz per pail) Its close enough enough in volumetric measurement to just use a measuring cup vs weighing it out. That mix will be approximately 5 times the strength of store bought strippers.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

PressurePros said:


> 8 oz of powder weight per gallon of water. (40 oz per pail) Its close enough enough in volumetric measurement to just use a measuring cup vs weighing it out. That mix will be approximately 5 times the strength of store bought strippers.



It's been a while since we did the price comparison and I think our local sources were gouging us for the Oxalic acid, but we did compare equal concentrations.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

PressurePros said:


> 8 oz of powder weight per gallon of water. (40 oz per pail) Its close enough enough in volumetric measurement to just use a measuring cup vs weighing it out. That mix will be approximately 5 times the strength of store bought strippers.


And that is what you mix it at to downstream, correct? 



Gough said:


> Hines, that's 8oz/liter, not per gallon.


I was asking Ken, I had just had the page open for awhile before I asked. I noticed the 8 oz/liter after it posted but I didn't bother to clarify.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Hines Painting said:


> And that is what you mix it at to downstream, correct?


That is the concentrated form that would be diluted depending on the application. In this case, it would be applied straight.


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