# metal baseboard covers



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

I have gotten pretty good at refinishing metal hydronic baseboard covers with a rattlecan and can make them look like a factory finish. I usually take outside all the removable pieces and then mask, prep and spray the tops inside the house. The inconvinience of the fumes is usaully offset when the HO sees how they come out.

Is this the work of a hack? 

The only oil-base I have seen in NY over the last few years is in primers and rustoleum in a can.

Is there a product that can be brushed and still produce that factory look?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I don't think you will come close to the finish with a brush.

IDK if there could be an acrylic in a rattle ran that would work with the heat. Check your automotive stores.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm assuming the heat the covers are exposed to is high enough to require a heat resistance paint. If so, and you've gotten good enough with a rattle can to do the work then I'd say stay with it. They will be down low enough to avoid super close scrutiny. 

The other method to consider would be to apply a heat resistant paint with an HVLP system. It would definitely allow you to apply a factory finish but the fumes issue would still be there and the cost for a good HVLP system isn't cheap.

Don't know if any of the "new" hybrid paints are available in a heat resistant formula.


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## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

researchhound said:


> I'm assuming the heat the covers are exposed to is high enough to require a heat resistance paint. If so, and you've gotten good enough with a rattle can to do the work then I'd say stay with it. They will be down low enough to avoid super close scrutiny.
> /QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I could be wrong, but the little research I did suggested that these covers dont get hot enough to require heat resistant since they are not actually radiating the heat unlike cast iron radiators.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

That would certainly open up the choices you could go with. I'd talk to your supplier (if he's a good one) about your product options. An HVLP would still be a good way to go and you could certainly justify the investment with the additional things your could do with the unit. An airless with the right tip should work as well.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

I'm confused, why not use latex or waterborne out of a rattlecan?....available anywhere...


http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/h2o-latex.aspx


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I brushed these out. 

Whatever works I guess.

I did spray coverstain on them first with an aerosol.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

ahhh, I was envisioning a intricate old school type.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> ahhh, I was envisioning a intricate old school type.


Like what. I'm not sure I even know what we're talking about.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> Like what. I'm not sure I even know what we're talking about.


My bad on reading this....for some reason I was thinking of these....










http://london.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=341891569


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> My bad on reading this....for some reason I was thinking of these....
> 
> 
> 
> ...



gotcha. Yeah those are fun aren't they. 

I have brushed those types out too when the customer doesn't want to spend extra having them redone.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> gotcha. Yeah those are fun aren't they.
> 
> I have brushed those types out too when the customer doesn't want to spend extra having them redone.



Ya, I was thinking of these when he was questioning brush work.

Usually they have 20 layers of paint on them already.


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## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I'm confused, why not use latex or waterborne out of a rattlecan?....available anywhere...
> 
> 
> http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/h2o-latex.aspx





TJ Paint said:


> I brushed these out.
> 
> Whatever works I guess.
> 
> I did spray coverstain on them first with an aerosol.


I have found that, although not hot enough to require a heat resistant paint, latex doesnt hold well to the heat, becomes brittle and chips easy.
I also dont particularly like the look after being brushed, metal should look like metal IMHO.

Anyway, was just looking for a way to avoid the fumes inside whlie still achieving the factory look.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Mine looked like they were sprayed but they were brushed.

The reason I put a bonding primer on first was to ensure a good life for the coating.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Those baseboard radiator covers do NOT get hot enough to require heat resistant paint. I've dealt with many while the heat has been full on, and they are never to warm to handle.

How about some pealesence automotive lacquer? That would really make then unique :thumbup: Metal flake candy apple red? :whistling2:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

daArch said:


> Those baseboard radiator covers do NOT get hot enough to require heat resistant paint. I've dealt with many while the heat has been full on, and they are never to warm to handle.
> 
> How about some pealesence automotive lacquer? That would really make then unique :thumbup: Metal flake candy apple red? :whistling2:


Might there not be a "pealing" issue with that type of topcoat? :whistling2:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> I brushed these out.
> 
> Whatever works I guess.
> 
> I did spray coverstain on them first with an aerosol.


Nice work TJ. :thumbsup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

researchhound said:


> Might there not be a "pealing" issue with that type of topcoat? :whistling2:



don't make me make Patch poop, pee, and puke all over your carpeting again ...................


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