# Help with sikkens stain



## buddy26 (Dec 17, 2011)

Have a house with sikkens stain coming off. I can scrap it off there with my putty knife. Don't know much about sikkens stains so can u scrap and go over or does it all need to come off? Looks like the wood underneath is dirty to me maybe that's why it's coming off not sure any help would be appreciated thanks


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

This is quite the project. If you've never done one, learning on the job will make you go broke.

This needs to be cob blasted. Osbourne brushed, and possibly sanded in areas.

If they want a band-aid fix, it can be done....but it will look like crap at best.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

NCPaint1 said:


> This is quite the project. If you've never done one, learning on the job will make you go broke.
> 
> This needs to be cob blasted. Osbourne brushed, and possibly sanded in areas.
> 
> If they want a band-aid fix, it can be done....but it will look like crap at best.


It definitley needs to be stripped i agree with NC. It is clapboard siding though, from the looks probably cedar or redwood. 

I bet you could chem strip it, id be curious to see what ken has to say. You could blast it, but its going to be expensive..for a stain like that i would bet you can get it off with some chems cheaper with less harm to the wood.


I wouldnt scrape it back either. Going to look bad and the stain that is existing is already weak so you are going to have problems down the road sooner than if you started fresh.


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## SeaMonster (Apr 13, 2009)

I'd use Behr stain and finish remover and power wash that right off. Then, run a Milwaki fiber disk sander over it and you should be golden. I'd talk the customer into painting it so you can use a good quality oil based primer


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

I doubt the homeowner grade Behr strip would take it off. I would do a chem strip and defur. VERY labor intensive with possibility of having to repaint any metal trim. Remove all screens. 

You cannot stain over that with anything less than a couple coats of solid. If they want a stained wood (ie semi trans) house, that has to come off. Cob blasting is nasty work and it kills grass and goes everywhere. Definitely not a job to underbid either way. For a strip, ph balance, defur and stain I would be in the $6.50 per s/f range.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

looks like house paint to me at this point. Just scrape and spot prime and go over with solid latex stain or flat house paint.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

plainpainter said:


> looks like house paint to me at this point. Just scrape and spot prime and go over with solid latex stain or flat house paint.


 
Idk if thats such a hot idea considering its an oil base tranlucent stain that is failing.. maybe if you primed the whole thing. But id be worried about the bond with a latex solid stain or paint directly over that stuff.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

StripandCaulk said:


> Idk if thats such a hot idea considering its an oil base tranlucent stain that is failing.. maybe if you primed the whole thing. But id be worried about the bond with a latex solid stain or paint directly over that stuff.


Then use an oil base solid stain instead.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

plainpainter said:


> Then use an oil base solid stain instead.


Most of the oil base solids got knocked out by the EPA, and the ones that are left are crap. Full of linseed oil. They flash, and grow mold and mildew uncontrolably, dont last as long as they used to either. Latex is the way to go. Only oilbased one i know of left is cabots and i wouldnt use it.

You also have to look at that house, if the bond between the stain that is on there and the wood is shot or weak it would make more sense longterm to strip it.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Looks like the underneath/bottom side of the lap siding is caulked!? If it is caulked then that's your problem, siding needs to breath! 

Look for a cause of failure, dirt, moisture, poor ventilation... If you just prime and paint over it with out stripping... chances are those areas that are bonded well will come loose overtime. Do it right!


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

It's situations like this that make me wonder why anyone would ever put sickens on their house, especially clapboard. Why would you want something with a three year or less maintenance schedule, that if you don't maintain, requires insane work and expense to get it back. Not to mention that I do t like the look of it new much either, but there's no accounting for taste.

At this point, I would scrape off the loose stuff, chemical strip and wash and go with paint, starting with an oil primer. Might be able to get away without the stripper, but would need to scrape more and sand.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

so whats everybody's favorite heavy duty stripper, I used hd80 mixed with powersolve this week and it worked great, got a nasty chem burn on my leg, but I bet that would get it off,

ps

strippping is sucky work you can have it


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

StripandCaulk said:


> Most of the oil base solids got knocked out by the EPA, and the ones that are left are crap. Full of linseed oil. They flash, and grow mold and mildew uncontrolably, dont last as long as they used to either. Latex is the way to go. Only oilbased one i know of left is cabots and i wouldnt use it.
> 
> You also have to look at that house, if the bond between the stain that is on there and the wood is shot or weak it would make more sense longterm to strip it.


I don't buy the whole linseed contributes to mildew growth theory. I stained my sister's fence with Cabot's solid OVT stain in white. Took much longer to re-grow mildew than the typical vinyl sided home that I pressure wash clean.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

StripandCaulk said:


> Idk if thats such a hot idea considering its an oil base tranlucent stain that is failing.. maybe if you primed the whole thing. But id be worried about the bond with a latex solid stain or paint directly over that stuff.


 Upon re-thinking this, I have a solid latex stain product I use that has as good if not better bond between an alkyd/latex interface than any oil product out there. So I would have no problem going over this with the product I use. And it would cover perfectly in one coat .


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Plain, whats your go to acrylic? I have had great results with Stormstain by California.


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## y.painting (Jul 19, 2009)

You guys are all overthinking this. Clearly, the only solution is to demo and rebuild from ground up :whistling2:


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

plainpainter said:


> Upon re-thinking this, I have a solid latex stain product I use that has as good if not better bond between an alkyd/latex interface than any oil product out there. So I would have no problem going over this with the product I use. And it would cover perfectly in one coat .


Whats the product?


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

StripandCaulk said:


> Whats the product?


 
10 bucks says Plain doesnt come clean on the product, he likes to dangle the carrot :jester:


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

Dave Mac said:


> 10 bucks says Plain doesnt come clean on the product, he likes to dangle the carrot :jester:


I raise you to 20 and say he is full of chit.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

StripandCaulk said:


> I raise you to 20 and say he is full of chit.


 
plain the bet is to you I call:whistling2:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Dave Mac said:


> 10 bucks says Plain doesnt come clean on the product, he likes to dangle the carrot :jester:


 Ordinarily that is the case, but since kdpaint revealed the magic product - I will agree in public that is indeed the stuff.

Too bad most of you don't have it available in your areas.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

When you see this on the side of can of California Storm Stain - it's like magic.

http://www.stormstain.com/Penebond.html


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Quick scrape, wash, 1 coat coverstain, 1 coat wb finish paint.

That would be the most likely scenario and budget I would come across.

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Storm Stain is the shizz. I have 15 gallons of factory tinted gray semi trans on my fence. It is my favorite acrylic stain, semi trans or (when I have to) solid, by far. Another fine California product.:thumbup:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

kdpaint said:


> Storm Stain is the shizz. I have 15 gallons of factory tinted gray semi trans on my fence. It is my favorite acrylic stain, semi trans or (when I have to) solid, by far. Another fine California product.:thumbup:


 They make the finest oil based decking stain as well. They put the costly driers into their product that allows post 2005 VOC requirements to actually work - it amazes me how good their stuff is.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I couldn't agree more, Plain. Enduradeck, 2010, their enamel undercoater, allfloor, larcoloid, the list goes on. Great smallish paint company.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

PressurePros said:


> I doubt the homeowner grade Behr strip would take it off. I would do a chem strip and defur. VERY labor intensive with possibility of having to repaint any metal trim. Remove all screens.
> 
> You cannot stain over that with anything less than a couple coats of solid. If they want a stained wood (ie semi trans) house, that has to come off. Cob blasting is nasty work and it kills grass and goes everywhere. Definitely not a job to underbid either way. For a strip, ph balance, defur and stain I would be in the $6.50 per s/f range.


Ken is right. A chemical strip would work too, but it has to be the right chemical. The one that I've seen used successfully is a product called "Star 10". Insanely expensive, and labor intensive. If you haven't done either, find someone who has. Let them prep the house, you can always finish it.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

kdpaint said:


> I couldn't agree more, Plain. Enduradeck, 2010, their enamel undercoater, allfloor, larcoloid, the list goes on. Great smallish paint company.


 Utterly hands down the best linseed oil primers in existence. The only other company with comparable quality products is Muralo. Their manufacturing is in the same town I live in. They have a long pedigree with roots in the Tourraine paint company. I love using 2010 interior.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Yup, California lovefest hijack. The combo of their long oil primer and 2010 on verticals, and Enduradeck and Stormstain on horizontals has worked incredibly well, with serious long term weather resistance on the numerous oceanside properties I have done in New England. Their stuff is badazz.:thumbup:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

kdpaint said:


> Yup, California lovefest hijack. The combo of their long oil primer and 2010 on verticals, and Enduradeck and Stormstain on horizontals has worked incredibly well, with serious long term weather resistance on the numerous oceanside properties I have done in New England. Their stuff is badazz.:thumbup:


KD - I have a house I did in April '05 with a combo of California and Muralo. One Muralo solid oil stain for the siding {since discontinued I think} One deep purple trim paint from Muralo, And two trim paints from California{gold and white}, with Muralo's oil base primer. That thing still after 7 effin years still has not one square inch of peeling!!!!!! And that was a home built in around 1908 with loads of paint buildup everhwere. Just some mildew buildup on the siding stain, which a simple house wash would take care of. 

The way New Englanders let their homes slide to the point where at least 15% of the surface is peeling before considering a repaint - this home won't be up for a repaint for at least another 7-8 years and possibly longer. F'ing 15+ years on a house paint job, unbelievable.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Ya, with Cali and Muralo you can't beat that kind of quality. I'm only familiar with Muralo's trim paint, and I love it. I have seem similar 10+ year results. Obviously, good wood prep is a lot of it, but these 2 product lines are better than any others I have seen for taking extreme weather and elements(salt/sand spray). How available is Cali outside NE? I was invited on a factory tour(not so special, but nice), and was not able to make it. I would definitely like to go sometime.


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