# when is it appropriate



## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

...to use painters putty, spackling, mud and caulk. the guys i work for, caulk everything, cracks in walls, nail holes, holes in window frames, cracks in trim. this is how they've taught me, but its so messy and i can tell where we have painted over caulk sometimes. i know mud is generally used to patch larger holes, but what use would "spackling" or painters putty be? and what are some trusted brands. also, to the guy who knows about lowes de'specd products, is their denatured alcohol and mineral spirits alright to use? what about buying mud or putty from lowes, i know im really hesitant about buying any painting supplies from there anymore since the wooster incident. i have bought some wooster rollers though and they seem fine, kinda hard to mess that up i would think.


----------



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Caulk is for cracks.
Spackle or putty is for small holes, like nail holes.
Mud or joint compound is for smoothing rough areas, or repairing larger holes.


----------



## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

lol, it all seems like common sense, but i had to know for sure. ill probably get some putty/spackle for work this week. ill definetly use it on my own sidework, but i get alot s*** for doing anything different then the way the guys i work for do, but it's like over kill caulking screw and nail holes, and like i said before, i can still see where caulk is after painting over it. they use duron painters partner, its ok i guess, i been using dap alex for stuff around the house(my house is like my guinea pig for trying new priducts/techniques). it has silicone in it but i can still paint over it, its fine for cracks and sealing trim, doors and windows, but im using something less messy for holes from now on. i should probably keep a bucket of mud around to for when i get the occasional sidejob. mud and putty wont go bad will it? like harden up or something after being opened.


----------



## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

Caulk has too much shrinkage to be used for nailholes. Lightweight spackle or wood filler is better for that. I also don't like using caulk for cracks in the wall for the same reason, cracked corners are a different story.


----------



## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

Yeah I have to caulk ceilings when they should be mudded at my job because of time/budget restraints(property manager wants to rent asap) and then just paint over it. I hate to do it, but it's their way or the highway. Is their something better to use to fill baseboard/trim gaps between the walls? I just hate caulk for anything other than caulking bathtubs and such, its messy and i always get it all over me and the warning labels scare me!lol formaldehyde???


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

I tape and mad all cracks, minus hair line cracks( Spackle). Caulking is used for corner cracks and trim. Nail hole also get sparkled unless the are very fine, paint will fill in nicely.


----------



## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

What do you mean by tape and mud. Maybe a dumb question.lol any large holes or cracks are just skimmed over with mud at my work. i also like to caulk around the entire door frames and windows even if they look fine, i figure what the heck? most of the guys i work with dont do the tops or bottoms though, just visible cracks or gaps. also, on the subject of caulking, are you supposed to remove all the caulk or just loose/mildewed caulk whether outside, inside, or in bathrooms? i would think its better to remove all the old stuff.


----------



## Faron79 (Dec 11, 2007)

*Give old caulk the boot...*

Yes, get all the caulk you can OUT! 
Use a caulk-dissolver. There are separate ones for Latex-blends; another for all-Silicone caulks.
* Knife-out all the stuff you can, then use the caulk-dissolver. It takes awhile to breakdown caulking, but it's the best way.
* Then use rubbing alcohol to REALLY clean the surfaces to be caulked.
* Alcohol evaporates fast, cleans well, and doesn't leave a residue like ammonia does. Science at work here guys :yes: !!!

Faron


----------



## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

I am in school with Timhag. I prefer to use tape and joint compound over cracks, IMHO lasts longer than simple spack job.:thumbup:

Happy painting, Paul.


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

greensboro84 said:


> What do you mean by tape and mud. .


Tape = http://www.google.com/products?sour...4GGIC_enUS210US210&q=joint+compound+tape&um=1

Mud = http://www.google.com/products?sour...lz=1T4GGIC_enUS210US210&q=joint+compound&um=1


----------



## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

Timhag, Do you use the paper or mesh tape? I use mesh, seems like it is easier to apply, and saves a step, you know laying the mud down first and then bedding in.

Happy painting, Paul.


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

I use mesh for cracks and drywall seams
Paper for inside corners.:thumbsup:


----------



## Paul_R (Apr 19, 2007)

Timhag, Paper for inside corners, because they are more persistent, or more likely to reappear? The crack is still there, but covered? I had a old house at one time that had persistent wall to ceiling cracks, the only way I could remedy them was to use paper tape and mud. I figured the crack was still there, but nobody could see it. 
Happy Painting, Paul.


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

Paul_R said:


> Timhag, Paper for inside corners, because they are more persistent, or more likely to reappear? .


Sorry Paul, I would use caulking or mesh tape for inside corner cracks. I would use paper tape for inside new construction corners for better corner finish.


----------



## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. Ya learn something new everyday around here


----------

