# Tongue and Groove Ceiling Advice



## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

I've got a job coming up first week in January. Older home, master bedroom vaulted ceiling. Currently it's rough tongue and grove boards and wood beams. The wood looks fairly dark but they don't know if that's natural or stained. (It was built around 1950). They are tired of the dark look and want it painted ceiling white. Walls are a dark blue, matte finish they want to keep. I usually use BM products. Any suggestions on prep, products and application techniques? Thanks.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I think T & g needs to be brushed in-
Prime and finish like any other precoated- 
I wouldn't use a flat finish- see if they're ok with matte- 
I usually take 5-6 boards- roll a section - backbrush- finish lengths- repeat.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Be prepared for a lot of caulking. I bet every 3rd groove will need a little or a lot.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Yes a case of 464. Don't see why you couldn't spray it. 

I would prime it with oil, caulk fill and sand, Advance topcoat, it comes in flat as well.


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Yes a case of 464. Don't see why you couldn't spray it.
> 
> I would prime it with oil, caulk fill and sand, Advance topcoat, it comes in flat as well.


I don't spray...that would be a good option if I did. Do you think the new BM 046 Superior primer would work in this case?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

The knots would worry me, being that its probably yellow pine right? I suppose if the clear was applied at enough mils that wouldn't be a problem. As long as you had enough bite with the 046.


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

It's been a couple of months since I first looked at it. I'll try to get up there tomorrow to determine if it's got a clear or stain on it. I was just wondering if the Superior does any better for stain blocking than their old wb primer. I'll ask at the BM dealor too. 
Thanks.


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## madochio (Oct 26, 2011)

how high up is said ceiling? do they want it perfect? lower ceiling means more to prep


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

If I remember it starts at about 8 ft and probably goes up to about 12 ft at the ridge.

OK we've got 1 for caulk and 1 for no caulk...:blink:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.


Not with the right caulk. 

What happens when the boards expand and show unpainted wood? It will look bad.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Thats the part about brushing it in...


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

And if its contracted when you brush it?


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Ive done alot of these- go ahead and spray it and caulk. 
Then you'll know.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I bet unless you have lived in or close to SE NC you haven't even see the type of paneling he is talking about. 60's houses here are full of it.


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

I do remember that it did not appear to be a smooth surface so I think sandings out.


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## doctors11 (May 17, 2010)

My guess is the boards are yellow pine, V-groove, tongue and groove, rough sawn, 1 x 6. I don't think there's a clear on it but it might have a darker stain.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

BrushJockey said:


> Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.


 I'm with Rob on the caulking. The t & g needs to expand and contract. Maybe you get away with a really good caulk, but probably not. It really looks like sh!t when it contracts and the caulking all cracks. If I have a choice I try to do stuff like this in the winter when the heat is cranking and the wood it at it's most contracted. It's a lot easier to touch up a little raw wood that could possibly show than it is to cut out and replace all that caulk. Once you start there is no going back.

Make sure you get a good stain blocking primer on it.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

OK, tell the customer we don't think you're a good fit for the job.


I see brushjockys point. I guess it would be a judgement call depending on how tight the joints were, but I'm envisioning joints half filled with paint.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Like this


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

That can happen- but by thoroughly back brushing- you do work it deeper in where you can't see.
What cliff said about winter also helps- old wood that isn't going to shirnk so much also helps- 
If you have a job where it is new- ( I know this isn't)- prime all sides- helps a ton.

Bender- just saw your pic- what I think i see is the actual spaces- it will show that painted more than natural or stained. It's good to let the customer know this- the paint will show the flaws- but that is also part of the look of old t&g.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Just paint it.

For determining the best prep and finish/appearance, it All depends on the expectations of the customer and condition of the substrate.

Caulk? Perhaps, it depends on the above.

Type of finish? Depends on the above.

Application method? Depends on the above and skill/experience level of applicator. 


Hope I cleared things up for everybody.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

And filling joints with paint or caulk performs better? This is a no brainer.

Stop buying cheap caulk and expecting it to stretch. I am only talking about caulking where it may be needed not every joint. If you sprayed a primer coat it would be very evident where that would be.


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## ajd paint (Dec 8, 2010)

I,ve done it both ways and when I caulked, customer called back when joints openned up asking me to recaulk and I used good caulking white lightning. My advice don,t caulk


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

No caulk, spray and back brush first coat of solid oil stain, spray final coat call it good


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