# Refinish with Sikkens cetol 123 or?



## nilesk (Sep 30, 2013)

I need a bit of expert advice on refinishing an exterior wall previously coated with Sikkens cetol 1 and 23 in a 50/50 mix of dark oak and mahogany colors. While the other sides are fine the south side, perhaps not surprisingly, took a hit, see attached pics. Siding is western red cedar; the product was applied in 07 and not maintained since. 

I am now in the process of removing the coating, which for the most part lifts off with a high pressure nozzle attached to a garden hose (no power washing), followed by a sanding to smooth out the rough spots. The plan is to then apply cetol 1 and 23 over the bare patches, followed by a final coat of 23 over the whole thing. Since I am not removing every speck of the old stain my concern is that the current blotchy appearance will translate through the final product, these being semi-transparent stains. Any suggestions? Is log & siding stain a better product for this? Thx for your help -


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## aroplate (Aug 21, 2013)

Try the Sikkens SRD translucent wood finish, it has a flat finish to help hide the defects, plus its cheaper than the Log & siding, I think I paid $90 for the Log & siding and $55 for the SRD. The SRD must be back brushed immediately after application to avoid an uneven finish.


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## YoungPainter (Apr 23, 2012)

Sand it all, or accept the inconsistent look. Use the cetol 1 & 23. Go heavier with the dark oak. Remember this wall is going to take a beating again and it may be better to have it be a little more bullet proof. It will blend OK. You will still see it though.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I've had to blend old peeling Sikkens in a few times. To me, going back with the 123 is the best option. The reason is because the 1 in the 123 system soaks in like a semi trans, and the Log and Siding system is two coats of the high solids stuff. ... 
It's hard to explain but you need the 1 to get the right color on the bare spots. In the 123 system a larger percentage of the color comes from the 1, say %75. With the log and siding its %50. 

These cedar shakes were peeling. I ended up putting a couple of coats of the 1 on some of the bare places to get the color better. Then touched up with the 23, and a 23 finish everywhere.

It's hard to make it look perfect, especially on siding like you have. But I do think the 123 is the best bet.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

The Cetol 1 & 23plus is the older version of Log & Siding. You need all that old finish off or it will look blotchy. Best bet is to go with Log & Siding, just play with blending colors to get the match. You can do 1 coat of one color and 1 of another, or intermix them and do 2 coats. Any way you go, its 2 coats of Log & Siding on any bare wood. The previously finished parts should get a coat of Cetol Maintenance. The maintenance will bring back the finish and film plus add more UV absorbers. The maintenance is clear so it shouldn't darken the existing color. If you apply the 23plus over the existing finish, it WILL get darker. So use Cetol Maintenance instead.

There is no disadvantage to using the 1 & 23plus on the new wood other than its a 3 coat system VS 2 coats of Log & Siding.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Since we are talking about sickens 123. I thought I would share a pic of a mahogany door I'm currently working on. Exteriors are 072 butternut. It's hard to tell from the pic, but I love the way 123 adds depth to the grain.


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## nilesk (Sep 30, 2013)

Something to choose from here, but good info nonetheless. I suspect I'll hit the bare spots with 1 or 2 coats of cetol 1 to begin with & then take it from there... will let you know what happens.


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## nilesk (Sep 30, 2013)

Having sanded off the current finish, though only where it was flaking, I’m finding it’s continuing to flake off. Does this mean I have to remove every speck of the old stain on the affected boards down to bare wood, peeling or not? Or just proceed on the assumption that the new coats will hold everything together? Chemical removers better?


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## dan-o (Sep 28, 2008)

Just take it all down to bare.
Otherwise you'll waste your time and it will still look like crap.

I'll never understand why home owners think this is low maintenance coating.
Once it's hazed over and starts flaking you really need to start over from bare for it to look right again.


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