# Tricks to brushing oil satin impervo



## jr.sr. painting

Can anyone lend some advice on how they make si finish nearly perfect when brushing. Especially on larger cabinet drawers and doors. I've been using this product since I was 12 years old painting trim inside closets on the weekends with my old man. It always flowed out perfectly. Now that they've taken the vocs out it seems to drag more and dry faster. I do thin it a little but I don't want to turn it into white mineral spirits. I was thinking of using a 1/4" mohair and tipping off the doors/drawers. I've hand sanded everything with 320 and wiped with mineral spirits. All is caulked and ready to go. Can the newer version be resurrected to the si of yesteryear? I'll be using 2.5" corona chinex brushes


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## MikeCalifornia

Wiping with mineral spirits is never a good idea. Even being an oil-based product, SI can still have problems forming a film around an oil contaminant. I would recommend DA in the future. If you can find some Penetrol, that will help a lot. Also, VM&P Naptha will be a great thinner, probably not EPA approved but really who will care if its in someone's home, not being sarcastic either.


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## jr.sr. painting

I think I've read on here that naphtha makes it dry faster. Is that true. I want it to dry slow and flow out


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## RH

XIM makes a good extender for oil based paints. I prefer it over Penetrol. I typically thin the paint a bit with mineral spirits and then add some of the extender as directed (be careful because the XIM product calls for a much lower amount than Penetrol does). 

It’s been awhile since I used the oil based Impervo but my memory of it was that it was pretty much the most forgiving enamel you could get. It’s a shame if it’s been screwed up.


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## jr.sr. painting

It has def been screwed with otherwise I'd just add a little thinner like in the past and not think twice. The past few years it's def changed


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## Lightningboy65

Yeah, it sure ain't the same as the old formula. They should have changed the name when they changed the formula, it's that much different. As Mike said, Penetrol (an extender) is your best bet. Most paint stores carry it. 
Naptha will evaporate quickly and cause at least the surface film to dry quicker, but not the entire paint film. Japan driers (excelerants) cause the entire film to dry quicker. Either way, that's not what you want.
I always liked 4" whiz velour rollers for cabinet work (that couldn't be sprayed). Good luck.


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## jr.sr. painting

Penetrol worked great. Thanks for the advice


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## cocomonkeynuts

It definitely changed once they put it into the red cans. Pre-red can didn't need any thinner. A bit of the XIM extender (doesn't cause yellowing like penetrol) https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/xim/additives/x-tender


Or corotech brushing reducer
http://hppindustrial.com/hpp/corotech-brushing-reducer-v701/


OR if in a pinch 50/50 VM&P naptha / mineral spirits


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## Lightningboy65

Satin Impervo has been in a red label for a long time -late 70's to early 80's??? I didn't notice a big change in the paint until the 2000's - when all the VOC stuff was really tightened up.


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## cocomonkeynuts

jr.sr. painting said:


> Penetrol worked great. Thanks for the advice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Are you using z235 or the c235?


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## Lightningboy65

Penetrol also works great on its' own to restore lustre to faded black plastic car trim and fiberglass!


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## jr.sr. painting

Z235 but it's Navajo white so it's 1b


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## cocomonkeynuts

jr.sr. painting said:


> Z235 but it's Navajo white so it's 1b
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That z235 is a regional special SKU for regulated markets. Not sure what's different about it though I think it's just the 'high solids' version. I've only ever used the c235, can't even order z235. I only add 1oz/gallon of the brushing reducer to c235 for example.


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## jr.sr. painting

It's probably been that way for atleast 10 years now. Before the old van was red with white around the bottom, now it's white with grey around the bottom. Most def a different product than in years past 


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## cocomonkeynuts

jr.sr. painting said:


> It's probably been that way for atleast 10 years now. Before the old van was red with white around the bottom, now it's white with grey around the bottom. Most def a different product than in years past
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The red cans still exist. Denoted with C235 Before that on the mooromatic colorants it was just 235 (bases with 1A-5A). Z235 grey can is a regional 'high solids' product in areas with VOC compliant laws.


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## Lightningboy65

The stuff in the red can today is still as not as good as the pre mid 1990's red can SI. I can only imagine how disappointing a "high solids" VOC compliant(grey can) variant must be.


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## jr.sr. painting

Lightningboy65 said:


> The stuff in the red can today is still as not as good as the pre mid 1990's red can SI. I can only imagine how disappointing a "high solids" VOC compliant(grey can) variant must be.




It is disappointing. Especially when I know how it used to be. It dries fast and leaves brush marks. The complete opposite of what it used to be


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## Zoomer

Ox hair brush, penetrol and liberal amount of paint applied.


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## Gloucestermen

I might suggest looking at brushes for marine varnish work. I worked in yacht refinishing in Florida years ago at Bradford Marine. In those days we did lots of brushing and had two complete sets of brushes one for clear finishes and one for pigmented finishes. Badger blended with chinese bristle brushes were our choice. The badger is soft and very fine bristle which lays the product beautifully while the blend of chinese bristles gave the brushes some backbone to move the finish. 


Sad but not surprising to hear that the new Impervo is not like the old. Satin Impervo was the one Ben Moore product that Sherwin Williams hated. They never formulated an oil that flowed like old Impervo. That tidbit came from a chemist who worked at Sherwin Williams, then worked with my wife at another company..


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