# Painting Different Substrates



## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

Painting Different Substrates

Stop deleting my posts. Its thats unfair. Its descrimination since I display my site for information and it is not selling anything. Its an informative site. please dont let me be a victim of your lack of understanding or lack of the ability to research before taking action. 


Thank you for understanding that everyone wants to be heard. Theres no reason to prohibit an individual from posting for giving good information.

Thank you and I hope you'll work with me in the future as an affiliate, as I have already put your links on my website.

*Now for some painting info.*

Heres some different substrates and their application guides.

Please share my link so that everyone can get reliable paint information. If you have a question about paint projects or just need to answer a simple question about paint please email me at or reply to this posting on painttalk.com and ill get back to it ASAP.

*Wood *
*(*New or Old Unpainted)- New PTL (pressure treated lumber) should be allowed to sit unpainted to weather for at least one month to allow the moisture to escape. New or old unpainted wood must be primed with any universal primer before applying any paint. Smooth wood should be sanded to open up the grain and give the substrate some tooth then wiped with a tack cloth or damp rag to remove dust particles. Do not sand surface if an unknown coating is present.​ 
(New or Old Painted)- If the surface is painted follow this to find out whats its been painted with before appliying paint or preping.
If oil base is present, it is reccomended to scuff the gloss of the surface before priming and painting with a water base paint. If you decide to continue using oil on the surface, It is reccomended to suff the gloss then wipe with a tack cloth or damp rag to remove dust particles and paint directly over the surface with oil base paint without priming.
If water base is present, It is recommended to scuff the gloss of the surface then wipe with a tack cloth or damp rag to remove dust particles. After deglossing with scuff sanding the surface may be painted directly over without priming with either an oil or latex paint.​ 

*Masonery*
(Unpainted)-Unpainted Masonery Surfaces should be sealed with a masonery sealer before being painted to avoid Acid Burn. Once sealed the surface must be painted within 2 weeks to avoid mildew and mold buildup.​ 





(Painted)-Painted masonary surfaces can should be checked for chalking. If chalking is present, seal surface with a masonary sealer before painting. If cracks are present, knife or brush an elastomeric patch product in the voids to prevent paint from cracking.
http://sites.google.com/site/mike7fec/paint-glossery/paint-identification-guide​ 


_*Metal* _
(Unpainted)- Unpainted ferrous and non-ferrous metals should be either , (a) Scuff Sanded, wiped down with acetone and primed with a universal primer before painting, or (b) Scuff sanded wiped down with acetone then painted with a coat of self-priming oil or water based DTM (Direct to Metal) before painting.​ 

(Painted)- Painted metal surfaces should be scuff sanded before priming to remove the gloss. If oil is present, scuff sand then apply a primer to switch to water base paint, or skip the priming step and continue to use oil base on that surface.
If rust is present, remove loose rust with a wire brush, then use a rust converter to convert the rust into a none corrosive material. Allow to stand for 24 hours, then prime with a xylene based primer in thin coats at 24 hour intervals and paint with any paint. Instead of using a xylene based primer you can also use a water based direct to metal (DTM) paint. Apply in thin coats and allow ample time to dry between coats.
http://sites.google.com/site/mike7fec/paint-glossery/paint-identification-guide​



*Vinyls/ Plastic*(Unpainted)-Unpainted Vinyl / Plastic surfaces should be Scuff Sanded and then primed with, (a) an acrylic universal primer, or (b) a urathane modified acrylic primer with bonding properties, to ensure bonding to the surface, as Vinyl / Plastic surfaces tend to be less porous and more difficult to bond to.






(Painted)- Painted vinyl/Plastic surfaces should be scuff sanded before priming to remove the gloss. If oil is present, scuff sand then apply a primer to switch to water base paint, or skip the priming step and continue to use oil base on that surface.​


http://sites.google.com/site/mike7fec/paint-glossery/paint-identification-guide​​


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

;tldr

^that means "Too Long Didn't Read"...


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Dude!!!! who the F do you think you are????? This is not where you come to push your informative website. That crap is painting 101!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Try to be a little more humble.We will let you know when we need your advise. Don't come in here as if you are the 1.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Dude! Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:

I now feel knowledgeable enough to start a painting company. Oh...wait. Never mind :no:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

I was just wondering on the way home today where I could find a good source for information on painting different substrates. _(sarcasm)_


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> I was just wondering on the way home today where I could find a good source for information on painting different substrates. _(sarcasm)_


Me too!

It's amazing how much of a wealth of information these links are

:thumbup:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

BC_Painter said:


> Me too!
> 
> It's amazing how much of a wealth of information these links are
> 
> :thumbup:


Like a self fulfilling prophecy! :yes:


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## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

I'm glad to see everyone's enjoying my information.Ill be sure to put some more up there. I love to help people especially when it means calling out the ignorant ones.

Don't be shy to ask a question. I'm not the only one answering them; I call all company's across the country to retrieve my information. Thanks have a good day.

P.S. I wouldn't be so quick to shoot the messenger, one day you'll be looking for an answer and it might just come from me.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> I was just wondering on the way home today where I could find a good source for information on painting different substrates. _(sarcasm)_


I'm going to print it out and carry it with me everyday just in case I run into a substrate I have a question on! :thumbup:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

VanDamme said:


> I'm going to print it out and carry it with me everyday just in case I run into a substrate I have a question on! :thumbup:


Substrates can be very tricky. I try to avoid them.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

*"P.S. I wouldn't be so quick to shoot the messenger, one day you'll be looking for an answer and it might just come from me."*

LMFAO!

Need help with this? I can give you the answer!


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

This would make a great Sig Line. *"P.S. I wouldn't be so quick to shoot the messenger, one day you'll be looking for an answer and it might just come from me."*


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Mikey,What's your website??


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Never mind..Got it You might want to use spell check.Within 10 seconds on your page I found these typos: Alcohol

*If your unsure about what type of paint is on the surface you can test*. 
-Get a rag of different color then the surface that your testing
-Apply Denatured Alchol or basic Rubbing Alchol to the rag
-Rub the surface back and forth around three or four strokes.​


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

VanDamme said:


> I'm going to print it out and carry it with me everyday just in case I run into a substrate I have a question on! :thumbup:


Mike should start printing out laminated "cheat sheets" that we can carry with us in estimates.

Help knock down those objections and CLOSED THE DEAL thanks to my laminated substrate application guide cheet sheat!

Thanks mike7fec!

It's a rather unlimited market!


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## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

listen guys if you dont need the information about surface prep, dont post replys to surface prep forums. 
and if you have a question about something more complex, email me at, or reply back with the question. ill be happy to help out.

Sorry I offend you guys.

"Never argue with a ignorant fool , they'll bring you down to there level then beat you with experience."


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Is this a surface prep forum?? I thought it was a painting forum??? This is Paint Talk right??


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

I'm getting acid burn, like masonery.


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> Is this a surface prep forum?? I thought it was a painting forum??? This is Paint Talk right??


You raise a good point

Maybe we should start a Surface Prep Talk :thumbsup:

SPT FTW


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Mikey..I'm just ribbin ya! It's just funny, when you've been around awhile and someone's first posts are about the basics of painting. Most of us here are experienced painters and would expect that info to be given when asked for,not presented as if it were something new.
You might consider posting that on a DIY Forum.


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Never mind..Got it You might want to use spell check.Within 10 seconds on your page I found these typos: Alcohol
> 
> *If your unsure about what type of paint is on the surface you can test*.
> -Get a rag of different color then the surface that your testing
> ...


The English language is a bitch, esp. for those for whom it is a second language.


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## kerk (Oct 14, 2009)

The thread title is misleading..........I saw absolutely nothing about prepping and painting pumpkins.

And I thought this forum was for 'professional' painters.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Never mind..Got it You might want to use spell check.Within 10 seconds on your page I found these typos: Alcohol
> 
> *If your unsure about what type of paint is on the surface you can test*.
> -Get a rag of different color then the surface that your testing
> ...


Besides the poor sentence structure and weak english, its you're. Painters also know how to spell alcohol, so what exactly are you?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I have a question!

You posted this gem

" New or old unpainted wood must be primed with any universal primer before applying any paint"

any universal primer, any paint? care to elaborate on that?:blink::thumbsup:


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## DecorativeWalls (Apr 14, 2008)

one thing I am going to disagree with your information posting is *using a tack cloth to wipe away any dust. I do not recommend using a tack cloth for any water base products. Better to use a lightly damp micro fiber cloth or just a soft damp rag.*


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## charleymcdowell (Mar 27, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> Mikey..I'm just ribbin ya! It's just funny, when you've been around awhile and someone's first posts are about the basics of painting. Most of us here are experienced painters and would expect that info to be given when asked for,not presented as if it were something new.
> You might consider posting that on a DIY Forum.


Well put.


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## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

*primer wood*

Prime exterior wood in a whole with water base. You can spot prime the knots and bleeding areas with oil. You can also use oil all around if youd like. just hit the bleeding spots with oil so they dont stain through your paint.


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## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

oh yeah. the tack cloth thing. If you wipe the surface softly with the tack cloth you wont rub off as much residue. you just want to swipe the surface. I would use a damp rag as well this way you can get into the cracks. But tack cloth works fine with water based. Also ware a glove if you dont want a stick waxy feel on your hand that can only be removed by solvents or hand cleaner. Soap doesn't seem to work.
what else. 
check out my site guys im adding stuff daily. And if you want something put on there or on here let me know.


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## mike7fec (May 3, 2010)

maybe i spell things differently. you got a problem with that.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

mike7fec said:


> maybe i spell things differently. you got a problem with that.


Yes............................


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Are you a poor mans Ralph Paul?


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> Are you a poor mans Ralph Paul?


I lol'd


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

mike7fec said:


> maybe i spell things differently. you got a problem with that.


Other than the spelling, its all good? :blink:

Seriously, if you want to teach and learn, have a blog for homeowners. Your stuff is half baked and not suitable for pros. It would be one thing if you asked people here to help you make it more accurate, but right out of the gate you took the attitude that you were presenting a resource that would teach this crowd. 

Know your audience.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> Other than the spelling, its all good? :blink:
> 
> Seriously, if you want to teach and learn, have a blog for homeowners. Your stuff is half baked and not suitable for pros. It would be one thing if you asked people here to help you make it more accurate, but right out of the gate you took the attitude that you were presenting a resource that would teach this crowd.
> 
> Know your audience.


And always use spell check


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