# Tinted Polyurethane



## painter1986 (Mar 19, 2012)

I have some clients who want to know what we can do to have their cabinets and trim stained darker. Currently they are a lighter stain with poly over the top. Pretty standard stuff, but stripping existing coatings off is not an option. Really the only thing I can think of is a tinted poly or a lacquer. I've never used either of those things before, so I'm wary of just saying "Here, let's use this!" The only suitable product I can find is Minwax PolyShades. Anyone have any experience with this? 

Alternatively, Kwal (regional paint manufacturer) says they can either tint lacquer for me, or they sell some product in a spray can (Gemini, I think?) that is basically a tinted lacquer. I've been realistic in what I can offer to the client, but I've gotten a few of these requests before, and turned them down because of lack of experience. So if it can be done, I'd like to look into giving it a shot. Anybody ever do a tinted poly over existing poly?


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Be careful. Depending on how much tint is added, the finish and wood grain characteristics can come out looking muddy.

You can always try a gel stain with some creative/faux brushing and wiping and then poly over it.


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## DK Remodeling (Mar 22, 2013)

Can you provide us with a sample of what you are trying to achieve so we can help you better.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

You can tint your own clears to overcoat- but it takes some finesse to get it right. Practice, oh paduwan...


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## painter1986 (Mar 19, 2012)

Brush Jockey - That's a good idea - the tinting clears to overcoat, didn't know I could do that. I'm not a wood guy and I don't know if I want my first attempt to be at this couple's house. 

DK - I'm meeting with them tomorrow, and I hope they can show me some pictures of what they want - she seems to have lots of ideas. Unfortunately until then all I know is that they want it "darker". I know it's the light honey-oak style of finish that was popular in most houses built 15-20 years ago.


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## Red Truck (Feb 10, 2013)

I have thought this over many times with cabinet jobs. Polyshades just doesnt sound that great from what I've read. Sounds like it can take many coats to get the desired effect. Anyone have pics of completed projects of this sort? How is adhesion over old poly and lacquers? Thanks


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Toning. Its called toning. (I feel like chrisn when people say wallpaper glue)


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## painter1986 (Mar 19, 2012)

Paradigmzz - care to elaborate?


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

There are many different ways to do what you want. It all comes down to customer expectations. Does poly shades kinda suck? Yeah to me it does, but it may work for certain applications. If the customer wants a fast job on the budget side, this may be sufficient.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I have seen cabinet guys use toner, basically laquer with stain added, sprayed conventionally. Looks great but you have to be a pretty good spray person to pull it off consistently over a whole set


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## DK Remodeling (Mar 22, 2013)

Or you can use sub it out to Steve Richards.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

painter1986 said:


> Paradigmzz - care to elaborate?


Cup gun tint poly and apply light even coats until desired depth is created. 


Call Brian Farmer of APC (Advanced Painting Concepts) in Loveland. That guy is who I started out working for. Hes brilliant. 


I miss Fort Collins.


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## painter1986 (Mar 19, 2012)

Thanks Paradigmzz, I appreciate it. Let me know if you're ever back in town, I'll buy you a beer.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Here's what we use:

http://www.shellac.net/shading-glazing-stain.html

We apply it by brush and use either ox-hair or badger blenders to even it out. Pretty handy stuff, but there is a narrow window of time during which it needs to be topcoated.


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## painter1986 (Mar 19, 2012)

Gough said:


> Here's what we use:
> 
> http://www.shellac.net/shading-glazing-stain.html
> 
> We apply it by brush and use either ox-hair or badger blenders to even it out. Pretty handy stuff, but there is a narrow window of time during which it needs to be topcoated.


No problem applying over poly?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

painter1986 said:


> No problem applying over poly?


None that I can recall, but, at a minimum we'll wet-sand with a TSP solution to de-gloss and de-grease.


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## Flaky (Sep 12, 2008)

Polyshades is good for covering over damaged finishes, but it's hard to hide the brush marks:

http://theoldehousepainter.com/fileserver/photos/varnish-stain 1.jpg
http://theoldehousepainter.com/fileserver/photos/varnish-stain 2.jpg
http://theoldehousepainter.com/fileserver/photos/varnish-stain 3.jpg


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## eews (Apr 18, 2007)

do not coat poly with lacquer- you will have adhesion issues.(it's ok the other way around)

try scuffing surface, use a gel stain, and recoat with poly.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I just picked up some french doors I need to tone. Ill make a point if posting a few pics this weekend or whenever I get around to them. It has to be sooner than later because my wife hates it when I hijack her garage. We toned a mantle on a job we dod a few months agao and the homeowner wants all her stain grade french doors and pocket doors toned to match. Lucky me. Urgh.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

eews said:


> do not coat poly with lacquer- you will have adhesion issues.(it's ok the other way around)
> 
> try scuffing surface, use a gel stain, and recoat with poly.


If we don't end up using the Behlen product that I mentioned earlier, we used Old Master's gel stain with good results.


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