# Curious to everyones wall float process....



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

As much as I hate floating walls, I've been told by several designers that they are using me instead of their old guys because they refuse to float their own walls, which makes everything a PITA. I've also noticed that theres a very high chance that the wall isnt floated/sanded properly whenever someone else is hired to do it. 

I've thought about subbing it out to someone I can trust, but the wall float is usually the first time I meet the client, and its usually high end, so I'd like to be there to meet the client and make sure there arent any other additional problems with the wall. That, and I dont know anyone I can trust to not only do it right, but be professional with the client.

Theres only been a couple times where I was able to land three paper jobs where they all needed floating, so monday, I drove around and floated all three jobs, then went back and did them one at a time later. That was productive, but I usually have to line out half a day to drive somewhere and spend an hour slaping mud on a wall. Its not too profitable...

Anyway, my process is meet the client, whip up some lightweight mud, put constructino paper down. Roll the mud on the wall with the highest nap roller I can find, and blade it off. I clean up, and go home, and usually throw away the remainder of the box of mud. 

Come back the next day or whatever, hook up my vacuum drywall sander to my shop vac and sand it down, prime it with gardz or sheildz, set up my table, cut the strips, eat lunch and start hanging. 

I rented a electric sander once, but it spit way too much dust out, so I think Im stuck doing it by hand, cuz its 99% dust free.

Anyway do anything differently, or more efficiently?


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## Vinyl 54X (Mar 12, 2019)

Maybe use topping instead of all purpose mud. It's lighter and easier to sand and dries a little faster. As long as you prime it after might make life a little easier. Always best to do yourself as only you know how you want it done.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont use all purpose, as it is a bitch to sand. The ultra lightweight shrinks too much, and can suck back into the texture, so I just use the regular lightweight. Seems to be a good balance. They dont really sell topping compound in Austin. I've never seen it here anyway.


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## Whiskey (Apr 10, 2019)

Sounds like you got the process very efficient. What kind of material did you hang?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Whiskey said:


> Sounds like you got the process very efficient. What kind of material did you hang?


I hang whatever. Normal papers, to grasscloths and high end stuff. Vinyl murals every once in a while. Everything but commercial type stuff.


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## Whiskey (Apr 10, 2019)

Nice, I got started hanging commercial vinyl in hotels and schools. Got to do some specialty stuff like WallTalkers and Forbo Cork but very little in residential. Hope to find some opportunities to hang more of the material you do. Do you ever hang blank stock prior to installing some of the hi end material?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Whiskey said:


> Nice, I got started hanging commercial vinyl in hotels and schools. Got to do some specialty stuff like Wall Talkers and Forbo Cork but very little in residential. Hope to find some opportunities to hang more of the material you do. Do you ever hang blank stock prior to installing some of the hi end material?


I usually dont hang liner. Sometimes though.

A few years ago in the painters union, A few of us painters got picked up by a floor company to hang tackable synthetic cork on walls in a bunch of schools during the summer. IDK if thats the same thing as your Forbo, but it came in these huge heavy ass rolls.

We would roll linoleum glue really thick on the wall, then two guys would wrangle the strip into place and use floor rollers to smooth it down, then we'd wash the glue off the seams, which were in H and J metal things we'd stick to the wall. We had it down.


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## Vinyl 54X (Mar 12, 2019)

Woodco said:


> I usually dont hang liner. Sometimes though.
> 
> A few years ago in the painters union, A few of us painters got picked up by a floor company to hang tackable synthetic cork on walls in a bunch of schools during the summer. IDK if thats the same thing as your Forbo, but it came in these huge heavy ass rolls.
> 
> We would roll linoleum glue really thick on the wall, then two guys would wrangle the strip into place and use floor rollers to smooth it down, then we'd wash the glue off the seams, which were in H and J metal things we'd stick to the wall. We had it down.


Yeah, The forbo is koroseal tack wall, Designed to destroy the backs of paperhangers. I hate that stuff. We used to hang a lot of the natural cork 4' wide 1/4'' thick that was nice you could hang with 2 coats of 111. Sometimes it would get a fabric wallcovering over the cork. Mostly they would leave the natural cork. It's easier than tack wall.


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## Whiskey (Apr 10, 2019)

Vinyl 54X said:


> Yeah, The forbo is koroseal tack wall, Designed to destroy the backs of paperhangers. I hate that stuff. We used to hang a lot of the natural cork 4' wide 1/4'' thick that was nice you could hang with 2 coats of 111. Sometimes it would get a fabric wallcovering over the cork. Mostly they would leave the natural cork. It's easier than tack wall.


That is how I would hang it also. I would let the 1st coat of 111 dry then roll on 2nd coat that just gave it enough slip to maneuver into place. I would hang full walls at Microsoft conference rooms. I found that if I put a slight bevel cut on the edges, I could get the seams to nearly disappear. Yes very heavy stuff and always needed a hand to hang it. Sometimes the flooring guys would ask why I was hanging floor cork on the walls.


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