# Glazing Oak



## ThreeSistersPainting

So here it is.. Originally golden oak.

Customer wanted to get rid of the yellow stain to have a "brighter" wood, so I sanded them all down. They wanted a chocolate glaze to highlight the inside and outer edge so I lacquered the RAW door then did 2 sets of glaze. The first glaze was imbedding it in the cracks then wiped clean, Second glaze was to highlight some of the less contoured in which I brushed the glaze on then using a clean small brush feathered the glaze around the details. The faces of the cabinet I wiped the glaze on, then off to highlight the grain to match the grain in the darker areas. 


Just looking for your thoughts on this one, Even though they want chocolate glaze I feel like the door faces need to be the same glaze tone as the lighter areas on the inside edge of the raised panel. I always feel like glazing cabinets generally give a darker tone all around which I'm battling because customer wants lighter cabinets.


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## Tprice2193

Chocolate to me is the darker color and I like it best. The lighter color looks a little to much like golden oak with highlighted grain for my tastes. I do staining with clear coat and painting. I have yet to venture into glazing. Is the plan to do one color or the other or are you trying to blend the colors? Right now its not working for me....it looks highlighted not glazed...I will shut up I am probably showing my ignorance.


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## Tprice2193

I reread your post and I see that you are trying to do it like your customer wants...Have you shown your test door to you customer? What do they think? The grain highlighting has done wonders and you have definitely bightened it up over the stock golden oak. I agree wih you comment about faces and edges being basically same color. Too much contrast in my opinion at this point.


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## RH

Personally, I feel a whole kitchen with doors and drawers done that way would look pretty busy. Not a knock on your work at all - you did a nice job, just too much contrast for me. I’d like the chocolate to be a bit heavier on the center and outside frame face. But again, that’s just me. If your customers like it...


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## woodcoyote

Looks good.

When you say "chocolate" what color is that? Just curious, looks almost like a darker vandyke brown of somekind. 

Anyway, good job. If the customer is happy, your happy.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

RH said:


> Personally, I feel a whole kitchen with doors and drawers done that way would look pretty busy. Not a knock on your work at all - you did a nice job, just too much contrast for me. I’d like the chocolate to be a bit heavier on the center and outside frame face. But again, that’s just me. If your customers like it...


I was looking for feedback, the contrast seemed off to me as well with the frames face. Usually when I glaze items it will be over the whole surface but I think they will have to decide whether they want "lighter" cabinets or the glazed look. Seems you cant have both with oak.

Dropping the samples off Friday so we will see.

*Glaze is an oil based java brown, two coats. Chocolate is such a broad color, this color would resemble raw chocolate.


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## RH

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> I was looking for feedback, the contrast seemed off to me as well with the frames face. Usually when I glaze items it will be over the whole surface but I think they will have to decide whether they want "lighter" cabinets or the glazed look. Seems you cant have both with oak.
> 
> Dropping the samples off Friday so we will see.
> 
> *Glaze is an oil based java brown, two coats. Chocolate is such a broad color, this color would resemble raw chocolate.


I do like the heavier application of the chocolate color in the corners. To me that represents the glazing effect nicely.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

This is part 2, they wanted a darker oak island with a full glaze. This is two coats of java brown. You can see I strip the previous finish off before applying the new finish, which I lacquered before the glaze. The glaze sits between coat 2 and 3.


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## RH

I like that much better. A more subtle contrast, but noticeable.


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## Tprice2193

Nice rich look! Are you using general finishes Java Brown?


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## ThreeSistersPainting

Tprice2193 said:


> Nice rich look! Are you using general finishes Java Brown?


This is Rustoleums Decorative Oil glaze, it would be a home depot product. I dont do a lot of shopping there but there seems to be a lack of glazes in retail stores here in Bend. 

Usually i'm using thinned oil gel stain for my glazes but could not find the correct color. I picked up sherwins clear glaze a while back in which you add your color by using paint but the quality in the finish seemed low, it also doesnt feather out as nicely as oil.


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## Tprice2193

Thanks for the info. I have heard good things about RustOleum's glazing products.


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

*Using Toner to Darken Cabinets*

Good looking samples and nice work. Don't forget you can also tone in addition, (or instead of) glazing. If they still want the sample darker, might consider spraying a toner, then finish with clear. You don't necessarily have to spend big $ on fancy toners, provided your stain and your topcoat are compatible... just mix some stain with topcoat to achieve desired depth of color, but always finish with straight clear. 

Great project so far!


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## ThreeSistersPainting

I have some dark walnut dye from the last cabinets that we were going to tone. Need some more time calculating/sampling ratios to acheive the correct tones, I would like to offer that service but its still in the works. These folks requested a full glaze for the island and to just glaze for the highlights on the other.


I'm starting on stripping the doors this morning and will be documenting the process, there seems to be a lot of questions on here regarding cabinet re-finishing so I should have Strip, Glaze, and WB Lacquer video sections.


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## Tprice2193

Documentation of your refinishing process will be a good service to the group. Thanks for offering to do it. Of course we are going to be replete with opinions. I and many on here refinish cabinets by painting or using pigmented lacquer. I for one have passed on refinishing jobs involving stains toners glazes and clear finishes. I haven't taken time to become proficient with the processes and products. I have done some exterior and interior doors but it has not been profitable.


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## RH

Tprice2193 said:


> Documentation of your refinishing process will be a good service to the group. Thanks for offering to do it. Of course we are going to be replete with opinions. I and many on here refinish cabinets by painting or using pigmented lacquer. I for one have passed on refinishing jobs involving stains toners glazes and clear finishes. I haven't taken time to become proficient with the processes and products. I have done some exterior and interior doors but it has not been profitable.


Since not everyone wants to go with paint, being able to offer your customers the option of refinishing their natural wood doors, trim, window sills, cabinets, and stair components is a nice skill set to have. Definately opens up your money making potential. Always hated having to tell customers we couldn’t help them because we weren’t comfortable undertaking a certain process.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

I am not super crazy about re-finishing wood, interior or exterior. But not a lot of painting companies around here offer services outside of paint. The only thing I actually enjoy about the wood refinishing process is the day I get done and walk out with my paycheck. BUT that doesnt mean I dont take pride in what I do and I never complain about it because like work like this that has provided for my family for some years.

There is still real good money for interior wood finishing but no one really wants to put the work into re-finishing it seems like. Never cut corners, know the materials your using, and never short yourself a paycheck. Generally someone wanting to have the wood stripped and finished knows it costs more than painting and willing to pay for it to be done right.


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## RH

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> I am not super crazy about re-finishing wood, interior or exterior. But not a lot of painting companies around here offer services outside of paint. The only thing I actually enjoy about the wood refinishing process is the day I get done and walk out with my paycheck. BUT that doesnt mean I dont take pride in what I do and I never complain about it because like work like this that has provided for my family for some years.
> 
> There is still real good money for interior wood finishing but no one really wants to put the work into re-finishing it seems like. Never cut corners, know the materials your using, and never short yourself a paycheck. Generally someone wanting to have the wood stripped and finished knows it costs more than painting and willing to pay for it to be done right.


You’ve hit on one of the reasons why refinishing wood can be pretty profitable: not many want to do it. Or, not many have taken the time to learn different ways to do it. When there isn’t much competition it’s easier to bid it to make it very worthwhile.
On a side note, my Festool sanding system and my HVLP have both been invaluable tools for doing wood refinishing. Each has paid for itself many times over.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

Here are all the lighter glazed doors finished and installed. I was having a hard time with the lighting and my phone thats becoming subfar, the pictures where the cabinets are lighter represent the true tone of the cabinets.


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## yoursurfacepros

*Loving the glaze*

I personally find it hard to know where to put more glaze. I really like how you added the darker tones in the recesses (where I think they should be). I also think your last pieces turned out great and really like how you made some elements darker in some places instead of in others. It really gives the cabinets a unique look.


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## ThreeSistersPainting

yoursurfacepros said:


> I personally find it hard to know where to put more glaze. I really like how you added the darker tones in the recesses (where I think they should be). I also think your last pieces turned out great and really like how you made some elements darker in some places instead of in others. It really gives the cabinets a unique look.


Appreciate the kind words. The whole piece receives a brushed coat of glaze, then I wipe the faces off. I use throw away brushes and work the glaze into the details and wipe the brush off on a rag to keep it clean. My biggest fails with this work are over correcting, if you wipe too much glaze off you can always add more after it dries.


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## ScottRFA

I do a lot of faux boise related cabinet and wall panel work in NYC & the Hamptons.
My advice is to apply a semi- transparent universal or minwax white tint (20-25% max) as a isolation coat prior to your process.

Use either B.M. or another good flat varnish as the medium. I also like to reduce the viscosity with B.M. acrylic extender, it will also increase’s the mechanical bond.

The grain figure will still telegraph through and you won’t be fighting the yellow cast which is putting you behind the curve from my observation. 

I find top coating with two tight brush coats of Bona Mega satin or matte gives excellent results.
This can also be knocked down with a little General Finishes Enduro or B.M. extender.
Snap!


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