# liquid mask



## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

i ve read about it,heard people refer to it,does liquid mask hold up and is it as easy as they say it is,u just etch the window and it peels right off,would like to hear some accutal testmonials.thanks


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## ttd (Sep 30, 2010)

Who sells this now? Sherwin Williams, box stores?


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

its found in any local paint store


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

This is what they bring to my town. I've used this and it's totally a life saver, specially for panel doors and windows. 

Liquid Mask


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Cant rember, but I think 3-M makes it. I forget. I have never tried it myself, but would like to. I could see it being an asset on french doors, etc.


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

thats what i was thinking,the french doors with 12 windows or i was even wondering for a interior if it sprays on with out leaving a texture for wood work


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Love it. We use it all the time. 

http://www.associatedpaint.com/masking-liquid-h2o.html


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

And 90% of the time we prefer to brush and roll it on the glass, not spray it. I find it difficult to sand the surrounding wood if liquid mask has been in contact with it. The coats are a little lighter brushing and rolling compared to spraying but just as effective and easier to work with.


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## dubinpainting (Feb 16, 2010)

billy the kid said:


> i ve read about it,heard people refer to it,does liquid mask hold up and is it as easy as they say it is,u just etch the window and it peels right off,would like to hear some accutal testmonials.thanks


Good stuff!


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## jamesmccary (Jan 27, 2011)

Great product. Pretty amazing actually. Just make sure you get enough on for easy removal. Oh and make sure you add it in to your materials; it's quite expensive.


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## Colour Republic (Aug 20, 2010)

is this really how you guys use it? how do you stop it peeling from the woodwork?????


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Colour Republic said:


> is this really how you guys use it? how do you stop it peeling from the woodwork?????
> 
> YouTube - Masking Liquid H2O Associated Paint Medley FL


It doesn't peel off wood (specially bare wood) it work as a primer for bare wood.

You can Spray it, brush and roll it. It takes about 30 min to dry.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

AztecPainting said:


> It doesn't peel off wood (specially bare wood) it work as a primer for bare wood.
> 
> You can Spray it, brush and roll it. It takes about 30 min to dry.


I have had a different experience with it. It can not be sanded like a primer.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

As much as I respect some of the people who have written in support of this product, I am surprised to read they approve.

Maybe it improved since I put down the brushes, but back then we decided:

A) it was ineffective
B) took longer to apply and scrape off than knowing how to cut in
C) don't get it on the wood
D) costly

Again, I see the same names that give this a thumbs-up that find disfavor with taping. 

I'm just surprised, not judgmental


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> I have had a different experience with it. It can not be sanded like a primer.


I've used on french doors (Brand new and bare wood) and windows, I sprayed it with the liquid mask then I primed the doors, so I actually didn't rely on it to be a primer, I just read what the specifications said on the can (and it says that it work as a primer for bare wood) then I primed it just to play it safe so I never had a problem.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Bill, 
I first tried it a few months ago on one of my NC sites. We have over 40 vinyl clad casement windows with a prairie style mullion per house. These windows with prep and paint by brush are around 3 hours per window. With liquid mask they are barely 45 minutes a piece and the finish product is far superior to a brushed finish. If you do the math I am sure you can image the increase in value. 

Also the product works very well on delicate surfaces that a razor or a window scrapper might damage.


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## Colour Republic (Aug 20, 2010)

So you guys trust this product as a primer for bare wood??? I'm not sure I could place my trust in it.

For those that approve of this product, how long have you been using it and have you witnessed any failures?


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## Colour Republic (Aug 20, 2010)

AztecPainting said:


> I've used on french doors (Brand new and bare wood) and windows, I sprayed it with the liquid mask then I primed the doors, so I actually didn't rely on it to be a primer, I just read what the specifications said on the can (and it says that it work as a primer for bare wood) then I primed it just to play it safe so I never had a problem.


hang on, you primed the bare wood with it, then applied a traditional primer over the top?? If the whole point of this product to to create a barrier which paint can not penatrate and peel away, how would applying a primer help?

Sorry, just trying to get my head round this?


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

interesting, very very interesting..... If it cannot be sanded, that would be a problem using it as a primer.


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Colour Republic said:


> hang on, you primed the bare wood with it, then applied a traditional primer over the top?? If the whole point of this product to to create a barrier which paint can not penatrate and peel away, how would applying a primer help?
> 
> Sorry, just trying to get my head round this?


I sprayed this liquid mask on the glass with a proshot very quick, I just passed a little into the wood but I never meant to actually prime the entire door with this as it is quite expensive and the store just had 1 gallon left, I was a little skeptical about this being a primer also, then I primed the actual wood doors with proper primer.
It turned out to be a very helpful product, I saved a lot of time. 
Here is a picture of some doors I finished with it.


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## Colour Republic (Aug 20, 2010)

ummm Now I can understand coating then cutting and peeling away from the wood prior to the application of paint, then peeling away from the glass after decoration, but I can't understand leaving it on any areas where it would be under the finish coat of paint.

You guys seem to trust it so I'll respect that and take it onboard, but i'd like to know how long you've used it without comeback

Anybody point me to some data sheets?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Bill,
> I first tried it a few months ago on one of my NC sites. We have over 40 vinyl clad casement windows with a prairie style mullion per house. These windows with prep and paint by brush are around 3 hours per window. With liquid mask they are barely 45 minutes a piece and the finish product is far superior to a brushed finish. If you do the math I am sure you can image the increase in value.
> 
> Also the product works very well on delicate surfaces that a razor or a window scrapper might damage.


Well, now you've done it, taught an old dog.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Colour Republic said:


> ummm Now I can understand coating then cutting and peeling away from the wood prior to the application of paint, then peeling away from the glass after decoration, but I can't understand leaving it on any areas where it would be under the finish coat of paint.
> 
> You guys seem to trust it so I'll respect that and take it onboard, but i'd like to know how long you've used it without comeback
> 
> Anybody point me to some data sheets?


We brush and roll it on the glass only. We have had issues with it on wood surfaces.


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## Colour Republic (Aug 20, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> We brush and roll it on the glass only. We have had issues with it on wood surfaces.


ok thank you, that i can understand


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

thanks to all for input,i got a preety good idea on where i would use it and not,again thank u


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Colour Republic said:


> ummm Now I can understand coating then cutting and peeling away from the wood prior to the application of paint, then peeling away from the glass after decoration, but I can't understand leaving it on any areas where it would be under the finish coat of paint.
> 
> You guys seem to trust it so I'll respect that and take it onboard, but i'd like to know how long you've used it without comeback
> 
> Anybody point me to some data sheets?



This is exactly my debate with this stuff. Posted a similar question recently. 

I bought a gallon and am experimenting with my own house, but like you say, I'm not sure how I could use (trust) it as its advertised and spray on the wood as one of my first coatings. 

(I see you've answered your solution to this NEPS)


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> Bill,
> I first tried it a few months ago on one of my NC sites. We have over 40 vinyl clad casement windows with a prairie style mullion per house. These windows with prep and paint by brush are around 3 hours per window. With liquid mask they are barely 45 minutes a piece and the finish product is far superior to a brushed finish. If you do the math I am sure you can image the increase in value.
> 
> Also the product works very well on delicate surfaces that a razor or a window scrapper might damage.


I still remember when I was an apprentice an old man told me "materials are cheaper than labor" New Construction would be a great place to use this. Saving two hours per window x 40 windows is huge. If I only have one or two french doors, I would just mask or brush. I remember this product hitting the market about 20 years ago and I still havent ever used it. This thread has me wanting to try the stuff now.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

As I've said in other threads about this stuff, it can be a magnificent time saver that produces laser straight lines in less time, but I can't bring myself to use it as a primer on bare wood. Like NEPS, I will brush it onto the glass only, being careful to wipe away any globs that get on the wood (this stuff is very thick). If doing a larger window you can just brush it an inch or two onto the glass, then stick paper to it while it's still wet. I use Jasco Mask and Seal from Homax. I buy it online and always have a supply of it on hand. For others interested there are several other threads on this if you search. 

I do have a question for others who have used it though. Can it be used with windows that have been glazed with DAP 33? Also, it says it works as a primer on "bare wood", does that mean that it shouldn't really be applied over old coatings, or even preprimed wood? As I say, I am always careful to try and keep it off of the wood, but inevitably some gets on it anyway.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

On this topic I have windows coming up and am wondering if it will work with clear top coat? Anyone use it under clear wb poly?


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## jimmyoverspray (Feb 3, 2012)

I would not want to get this product on wood if your looking for a fine finish. Used this thru my sprayer as experiment and it gives wood a orange peel look and won't sand out. Best way to use it is brush and roller you won't need to be as careful. 
Either than that its a time saver IMO


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I have done some research this morning and one mfg stated its 100% acrylic resin. I see why it would make an excellent sealer/primer. Did you reduce any to see if you could get it to spray flat? 

Its been years since I have used it, and we were doing paint grade then. We also used a primer that we could sand so it would negate any irregularities before applying topcoats. 

Just looking at options to boost productivity for clear grade. Brushing out everything will be labor intensive.


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

I just used it on 2 houses. Sprayed it on, brushed it into the wood. I didn't spray it further than the edge of the glass, but did work it into cracks. Then I sprayed the whole window and frame with primer and brushed that in. Then I sprayed two coats - the first I spot-brushed into areas that needed it, the next I simply sprayed. 

I tape-tested a section - liquid masking, primer, 1 coat finish - before starting the two houses, and did it in an area that was half scraped-to wood and half previous paint. It held fine. 

Both jobs were on fairly janky windows with limited budgets. This stuff doesn't sand well, so on houses where you're looking for a fine finish you might test methods before going with it. 

I used Aquaglaze to replace old glazing, and caulked gaps between glazing edges and wood in which the glazing was separating at the top but still solid.

The important part for me is to be able to present an affordable option for homeowners to maintain their wooden windows. The painters I bid against wanted to charge for doing a more traditional approach - a fair charge for their methods, and probably a better-looking outcome. But it wouldn't be more durable than my methods, and the clients are happy to have functional windows again. 

I get the impression that a lot of homeowners let their wood windows deteriorate past the point of reasonable repair because painters aren't finding affordable enough methods to repair them. What a waste!


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I wonder why are people brushing it onto the glass. kinda defeats the purpose. you spray it on the whole window, then spray the finish on top of it. that is what it is made to do and it works just fine at doing it.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I could see brushing it if you only had a few windows, or maybe a door and didn't want to have to spray it. Still haven't done this job and without testing to ensure it will spray flat and can work well under clear grade I can't recommend it. 

I was planning on hvlp spraying the trim and doors, guess I can brush the panes and spray the sills if it comes down to it.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

straight_lines said:


> I could see brushing it if you only had a few windows, or maybe a door and didn't want to have to spray it. Still haven't done this job and without testing to ensure it will spray flat and can work well under clear grade I can't recommend it.
> 
> I was planning on hvlp spraying the trim and doors, guess I can brush the panes and spray the sills if it comes down to it.


I haven't used it in quite a few years now and my experience was production, with a airless. I was putting out nice windows though. That liquid mask puts a good trim guy out of work on jobs like that. It looks on the bare wood kinda like a latex clear anyway which you know. Satin or semi even. I'd make an investment in trying to clear it for sure if I had piles of them to do. I'd use a airless though. The liquid mask had to be on heavy enuff and the finish heavy enuff I don't remember it raising the grain on the wood. if you wanted to sand maybe the liquid mask, then a sand n seal then the poly? Sand the sand n seal?


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Oden said:


> I wonder why are people brushing it onto the glass. kinda defeats the purpose. you spray it on the whole window, then spray the finish on top of it. that is what it is made to do and it works just fine at doing it.


I didn't get it then and I still don't get it now. ????


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## sowardb (Aug 18, 2012)

I've used it, but sometimes it leaves a oily film on the glass. I've found that the Jasco brand is better the h2o liquid mask brand.


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