# Shower floor coating for correctional facility



## rpl1970 (Nov 23, 2019)

Hello, all. Needing a little help on a subject I have not had to deal with in the past - shower floor paint in a correctional facility.

Does anyone have any advice on a floor paint that is going to be resistant to de-lousing shampoo (Liceall)?

All of the showers in this particular correctional facility are holding up well other than this particular "intake" shower where this shampoo is applied. I am inclined to believe that the de-lousing product is the issue as the floor paint is reacting (peeling) in the exact area where the shampoo is applied to inmates as they enter.

There are obvious questions as to which type of paint was used by the last painter and the level of prep done prior to application of said "unknown" paint, (both questions got me nothing but shoulder-shrugs from the facility), but I figured I would start with narrowing it down by asking for advice regarding a floor-grade paint that would be resistant to certain chemicals. 

These shower floors are concrete. I will be stripping/sanding/removing as much of the previous floor coatings as possible in hopes of starting with a clean slate, so to speak. I will do my best to answer any questions along the way.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as I would love to tackle this job only once.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I don’t have much in the way of product advice, especially when a specific chemical is involved that has proved to be problematic. I did repaint a concrete shower pan in a residence once and used a pool paint for it. It has performed well - but I doubt the 80+ year old owner uses delousing shampoo - at least on a regular basis.

Regardless, be ready for the “don’t bend over when working” comments to ensue. :devil3:


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

If the product their using for delousing is similar to NIX, the pH looks to be around 5 (Acidic). The coating would probably have to be a chemical containment product like epoxy or a vinyl resin used in fiberglass.


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## rpl1970 (Nov 23, 2019)

Thank you, both.
I was leaning toward epoxy, but was hoping to avoid: a) the downtime as this shower is used constantly, and b) jumping in and using epoxy and then having it fail because of an issue that I had not previously been aware of.

That is why my initial question here. Hoping to avoid any pitfalls with feedback as well as returning to do it again.lain:
I appreciate the info and will get with a couple of our paint suppliers to investigate further.


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## Whiskey (Apr 10, 2019)

I am very interested in what suggestions you get also. I have gym locker room shower floors to repaint in the summer for a college. I trust someone can lead us in the right direction for Hi-Quality product.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Check out the PPG Aqua Pon waterborne epoxy. It is a two component material that has better chemical resistance than most single component materials. However, I may lean towards a solvent borne epoxy due to the somewhat constant submersion the coating would be exposed to. I have used Devoe's Novalac epoxy for chemical containment with excellent results. I think it may be 100% SBV.


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## ISellPaintInIdaho (Jan 3, 2018)

A polyaspartic coating would work great. It give you very good chemical resistance, and you can do 2 coats same day. Probably need to broadcast a little aluminum oxide in 2nd coat for slip resistance. Many companies make one. I have used Polyset many times. Great product.


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## DiamondPaintingInc (May 31, 2012)

Most Correctional facilities are specd with Tnemac. Products are easily identified online on there website. I would hate to say what I use for water plants etc. and then I am wrong.


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## mDUB562 (Jul 31, 2012)

I would recommend MacroEpoxy 646.


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## tbiol00 (Jan 24, 2020)

My first suggestion would be adding onto the surface preparation. Cleaning and stripping to get down to the bare concrete is just the start. A heavy degreaser once you get to the bare concrete will prepare the surface for what needs to be done next, which is abrade the surface with either a diamond grinder or some sort of powered machinery. If you only clean and strip, you are setting up for failure with any of the products recommended above.

Looking into Tnemec specs would be a good idea, Novalac may work. Polyaspartic top coats are great for getting back into service on the final coat. 

I'd recommend a penetrating 100% solids epoxy primer. PPG's Amerlock Sealer, Corotech V155. Something thin that'll bite into the concrete. 

The second coat will give the coating some body (Dry Film Thickness). A 100% Solids Self Leveling product would work well here, but also will take a day to allow recoat (approximately depending on manufacturer) 
- Macropoxy 646 is a thin film epoxy, not really providing any film thickness (and would for sure fail with the surface prep you've listed)
-Aquapon WB is not set up for immersion 
-INSL-X Pool Paint may do the trick, but if you're going all out, you might as well go for the chemical resistance you know you get with a containment product.


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## scoobsmcgee (Jul 27, 2019)

rpl1970 said:


> Hello, all. Needing a little help on a subject I have not had to deal with in the past - shower floor paint in a correctional facility.
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on a floor paint that is going to be resistant to de-lousing shampoo (Liceall)?
> 
> ...


What time frame do you have to work with? Will odor be an issue? Is any form of anti-slip aggregate needed? Are current problem areas just near the drain or everywhere? Does the concrete have any moisture seeping issues? What level of prep will be done?

A litany of questions, I know, but I have found little things can make an enormous difference when it comes to floor coatings. :/

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## hasnazameer (Jul 20, 2020)

Go for epoxy coatings.


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## PApaints (May 17, 2010)

This is an old post...but I didn't see any answer that included what I think are key points so I'll throw out a couple thoughts anyway. First, the coating isn't the only important thing. We've done shower floors in correctional facilities (and many other similar situations). Most importantly, you HAVE to blast the floor to clean concrete with a good profile. You can't just grind it...it needs profile. Next, you need to cove the floor. A urethane cement cove, or your going to get water under your epoxy. Additionally, if the wall paint (assuming it's painted concrete, not tile) isn't already a perfectly solid epoxy with no failure, I'd get the walls in order before doing the cove, so the cove goes over the wall epoxy. Lastly, for product...there are a bunch that you could use - but all are either epoxy or urethane. Any thought of a single component product is a sure failure. And a hard no on any kind of water based epoxy. Also a no on Macropoxy 646... you need an immersion grade epoxy, and preferably a much heavier mil build than you're getting out of 646 or DP235. I would either use a urethane slurry, or if you don't know how to apply that you could get away with an immersion grade liner epoxy like Duraplate 8200. Build it to 2 coats of 20-30 mils per coat. The best advice I could give on this, though, is to bring in your mfg (SW, PPG) industrial rep for the spec... they can work with you on something that would work and that you could apply yourself with guidance.... or better yet sub it to a reputable floor coatings company and mark it up 20% and call it a day. 99.99% of painting companies do not have the knowledge, experience, or equipment to do floors - and that includes my company. We learned the hard way it's better to build a relationship with someone whose business is strictly floors and sub to them. We've done dozens of floors in house... and compared to most painting companies I'd say we were better at it. We have walk behind grinders and a couple small blast tracs and a slew of 7" Metabos.... and in the end I realized we couldn't touch the quality of real floor coatings companies that have hundreds of thousands of dollars in prep equipment, plus far better knowledge and experience. To expand on that just a little more... if you're (wisely) going to sub floors - don't find one of the fly by night companies who tries their hand at res garage floors. They're a dime a dozen, often franchises or sold on the "big money" by a coatings company, and they normally aren't any better than any painting company. Find the biggest commercial/industrial floor coating company in your area and build a good relationship. My $0.02.... Again... we learned the hard way.


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## mike mineral spirits (Dec 5, 2020)

pghsteve said:


> This is an old post...but I didn't see any answer that included what I think are key points so I'll throw out a couple thoughts anyway. First, the coating isn't the only important thing. We've done shower floors in correctional facilities (and many other similar situations). Most importantly, you HAVE to blast the floor to clean concrete with a good profile. You can't just grind it...it needs profile. Next, you need to cove the floor. A urethane cement cove, or your going to get water under your epoxy. Additionally, if the wall paint (assuming it's painted concrete, not tile) isn't already a perfectly solid epoxy with no failure, I'd get the walls in order before doing the cove, so the cove goes over the wall epoxy. Lastly, for product...there are a bunch that you could use - but all are either epoxy or urethane. Any thought of a single component product is a sure failure. And a hard no on any kind of water based epoxy. Also a no on Macropoxy 646... you need an immersion grade epoxy, and preferably a much heavier mil build than you're getting out of 646 or DP235. I would either use a urethane slurry, or if you don't know how to apply that you could get away with an immersion grade liner epoxy like Duraplate 8200. Build it to 2 coats of 20-30 mils per coat. The best advice I could give on this, though, is to bring in your mfg (SW, PPG) industrial rep for the spec... they can work with you on something that would work and that you could apply yourself with guidance.... or better yet sub it to a reputable floor coatings company and mark it up 20% and call it a day. 99.99% of painting companies do not have the knowledge, experience, or equipment to do floors - and that includes my company. We learned the hard way it's better to build a relationship with someone whose business is strictly floors and sub to them. We've done dozens of floors in house... and compared to most painting companies I'd say we were better at it. We have walk behind grinders and a couple small blast tracs and a slew of 7" Metabos.... and in the end I realized we couldn't touch the quality of real floor coatings companies that have hundreds of thousands of dollars in prep equipment, plus far better knowledge and experience. To expand on that just a little more... if you're (wisely) going to sub floors - don't find one of the fly by night companies who tries their hand at res garage floors. They're a dime a dozen, often franchises or sold on the "big money" by a coatings company, and they normally aren't any better than any painting company. Find the biggest commercial/industrial floor coating company in your area and build a good relationship. My $0.02.... Again... we learned the hard way.


Your 100% right. I would shot blast the shower. Underlayment with Rohm & Haas 330 with trinity white cement to pitch and grade the water towards the drains. Trowel a 100% solid epoxy with quartz crystals for a non skid profile. Clear coat with another solvent epoxy or urethane. Professional flooring applicators only. Similar specs are used in most commercial kitchens 20K square feet +. This job is not for the beginner.


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## mike mineral spirits (Dec 5, 2020)

mike mineral spirits said:


> Your 100% right. I would shot blast the shower. Underlayment with Rohm & Haas 330 with trinity white cement to pitch and grade the water towards the drains. Trowel a 100% solid epoxy with quartz crystals for a non skid profile. Clear coat with another solvent epoxy or urethane. Professional flooring applicators only. Similar specs are used in most commercial kitchens 20K square feet +. This job is not for the beginner.


Aqua Pon is used in commercial gyms around the pool areas only!


mike mineral spirits said:


> Your 100% right. I would shot blast the shower. Underlayment with Rohm & Haas 330 with trinity white cement to pitch and grade the water towards the drains. Trowel a 100% solid epoxy with quartz crystals for a non skid profile. Clear coat with another solvent epoxy or urethane. Professional flooring applicators only. Similar specs are used in most commercial kitchens 20K square feet +. This job is not for the beginner.


Aqua Pon is used in commercial gyms and specified around the swimming pool areas only. The flooring is pitched as to not collect ponding water.


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