# Prime rx from sherwin



## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

Any one use the new prime rx or what ever it is called from sherwin? I have never tryed the ”peel bond” primers....but when I found a couple guys who figured out how to tint it...i decided to give it a try....i got a gallon of red and dark green....i thought it would be tacky and nasty like mad dog...didnt really seem that way...

Any input on the stuff?


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

It's just like PeelBond. This is a pic of the corner of a 1950's window trim that had been painted over about 3 times with latex over another 3-4 coats of oil. I just sanded them down with my orbital then 220 hand sand. They were still pretty beat so I coated them twice with the Rx and they feel smoother and the old coats feel tight. I will take pics when I am done shooting primer then two coats of semi. In the second, the product is wet, I would guess about 10mils on the rough stuff.


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## finaltouch0 (Jul 14, 2011)

I used almost 150gal of peel bond last year, and switched to prime rx this year. So far, so good. At $8 less per gallon and it seems to be performing almost identical to peel bond. Oh, and it is water based. Makes switching to top coat easy.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

What is the best price that you got from SW? 

They told me I could get a better deal on it since it's a product from them.

You can PM me if you want.


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> What is the best price that you got from SW?
> 
> They told me I could get a better deal on it since it's a product from them.
> 
> You can PM me if you want.


$29.50

I might try out the zinnser peel bond or xmi

I really hate the Sw primers...waste of money i think....normally i use cover stain all day...get it for $14.75 but i figure the ease of not using oil brushes...saving money on thinner and not buying oil brush after brush.....
might be a good savings...?


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

richmondpainting said:


> $29.50
> 
> I might try out the zinnser peel bond or xmi
> 
> ...


Who the hell compares Peelbond and/or Peelstop to Coverstain? :blink:


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Who the hell compares Peelbond and/or Peelstop to Coverstain? :blink:


Because that's what. I use...if I don't like the "peelbond" style of primers... I will just go back to the cover stain which I've used for years....


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

richmondpainting said:


> Because that's what. I use...if I don't like the "peelbond" style of primers... I will just go back to the cover stain which I've used for years....


Do you go back and look at your jobs? If you have been using Coverstain as a whole house primer or "filling primer" then you probably have some issues. You can't compare primers based on price as they all do different things. Coverstain being a quick-dry oil is really for stain killing and spot priming where longevity does not matter a whole lot. If you are trying to use it to fill and are overextending the maximum mil per coat, you will have problems.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Do you go back and look at your jobs? If you have been using Coverstain as a whole house primer or "filling primer" then you probably have some issues. You can't compare primers based on price as they all do different things. Coverstain being a quick-dry oil is really for stain killing and spot priming where longevity does not matter a whole lot. If you are trying to use it to fill and are overextending the maximum mil per coat, you will have problems.


I was just reading his reply on some other thread...


richmondpainting said:


> Here in wisconsin you need no license whst so ever....funny cuse I hear our quality is better than most....idk tho maybe not ....lol


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Who the hell compares Peelbond and/or Peelstop to Coverstain? :blink:


Totally different products obviously. But it seems they are both used for similar conditions/ substrates, although with different goals. 

I've always used cover stain for conditions like in this pic. After extensive prep of course. Not as a 'filler per say, but just to stabilize the surface and prevent future peeling. 
It works well, tried and true in my area an many others from what I gather. 
The main advantage I can see to using peel stop type products is to improve smoothness of the finish coat, and to hold the film together as the remnants of the old coating release from the surface. The labels/ fliers for these products almost imply that less prep, in terms of removing the failed coatings, in necessary. That's Not the case though right? I mean if you are going to use peel stop as opposed to cover stain or any other traditional primer, you would still prep the same way? 
I'm also interested in the flexibility of these type products v/s penetrating primers like cover stain. And how that will affect long term durability. 

Picked up some of the super deck p-3 peeling paint primer this morning to try for the first time. 
Do you guys/gals think peel stop primers are superior to traditional primers in terms or lasting longer on thoroughly prepped surfaces? Or is it mainly an aesthetic improvement? 

I'm thinking to switch to peel stop or something like it for some applications that I've always used cover stain for in the past. As much as I like the results with CS, getting away from oil base is a goal.


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Do you go back and look at your jobs? If you have been using Coverstain as a whole house primer or "filling primer" then you probably have some issues. You can't compare primers based on price as they all do different things. Coverstain being a quick-dry oil is really for stain killing and spot priming where longevity does not matter a whole lot. If you are trying to use it to fill and are overextending the maximum mil per coat, you will have problems.


we don't prime the whole house..only spot prime bare wood and im not trying to fill anything in just make the paint stick


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

joshmays1976 said:


> Totally different products obviously. But it seems they are both used for similar conditions/ substrates, although with different goals.
> 
> I've always used cover stain for conditions like in this pic. After extensive prep of course. Not as a 'filler per say, but just to stabilize the surface and prevent future peeling.
> It works well, tried and true in my area an many others from what I gather.
> ...


exactly my thoughts.....


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Old thread I know but I thought I'd jump in it.

Sherwin placed an order for 5 gals of Peelbond, didn't come in, don't know when it will be in. So now I'm faced to use prime rx...possibly. 

Anymore feedback on this stuff? If it's about the same, then I'll go for it. They just don't have the colorants to tint it. Not a huge deal, I suppose.

Thanks in advance.


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Do any of these special primers block bleed?


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Phinnster said:


> Do any of these special primers block bleed?



I have had success with peel bond blocking bleed when using quality topcoats like Duration, Aura, Regal select. I had bleed with Resilience a few years ago back when I used SW. 


Sent from my blah blah blah


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

Phinnster said:


> Do any of these special primers block bleed?


We use a lot of Peel Bond and love it. XIM offers an additive to block tannin bleed. http://ximbonder.com/?xim_products=bleed-control-100

I've never used it, but I know it's available.


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## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Phinnster said:


> Do any of these special primers block bleed?


Bleeding issues: 

Nicotine or water I spec out preprite problock oil.

Graffiti (rattle can, sharpies, etc...) : 
Preprite problock latex

Peeling paint: Their version of peelbond (the name escapes me).

Fiberglass, steel, & stone (tile & counters) use macropoxy primer.

Sheesh i cover up too much crap at these apartments to know that much...

Buy the best, forget the price. I just listed sherwin products because thats what the OP asked.


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## Welshfampainting (Feb 5, 2011)

I know this post is old, but I thought I would add my 2 cents. I am 2nd generation residential historic restoration. My father and I have been stripping historic homes to bare wood since the 70's. Sometimes full strip is not in the budget, sometimes it is marginally unnecessary, sometimes we are coating new wood/building materials. We offer a 30 year warranty against coating failure on all stripped surfaces. We have had to do a bit of warranty work on projects executed around the time when VOC regulations were changing. Otherwise, our work has held up to the test of time. We have continuously found most, if not all oil primers are too brittle and fail/flake (post 1978, lead made alkyd paints more pliable. We only spot prime with oil as needed for stain blocking. The elasticity of acrylics works best for us. We currently use a combination of emulsabond, primer rx, exterior duration semi-gloss, and sometimes add floetrol for ultra-smooth finish. Spraying is preferential, followed or preceded with brushing/rolling when checked/alligatored surfaces are present, as it pushes the primers into the micro gaps that sprayed finishes will not fill. This method has proven successful even on new cedar when duration is applied as a finish coat. We never use flat finishes as they are permeable. 
Our projects are primarily in the north east part of the country.


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Hey welsh 
I would love to see pics of your work and more pics of your products you use 
Sanding equipment and such 

Also the names of the primers and paint you use


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## Welshfampainting (Feb 5, 2011)

Hi phinnster, we use a combination of heat sources and storz scrapers for coating removal. As previously mentioned, for exterior primer, we mix it up in 5 gallon buckets, floods "emulsabond" for adhesion, sherwin Williams "primer Rx", and sherwin Williams exterior duration gloss paint. For finish coat, we commonly use Sherwin Williams Duration satin and gloss. We sand with random orbit Palm sanders or 6 inch random orbit sanders (60 grit) with vaccuum dust collection. For caulks we use "Alex plus premium", and sometimes "OSI quad". We find hot pressure washers to be most effective for cleaning.


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## Welshfampainting (Feb 5, 2011)

Another photo


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## mDUB562 (Jul 31, 2012)

I've seen people use Prime RX and swear it was holding the house up. That's a joke of course but if it is used properly on the right job it can save you some serious labor. 

I'd recommend going into the store with some old peeling lumber and ask them to put a sample on there for you... The stuff can go on 40 mils thick or so.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Anyone try adding extender to see if prime rx or peel bond levels out any better? 

Sprayed on thick it always has am orange peel type of texture. Just from the sprayer pressure and it being wet on wet will do that.

Just curious.


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Welsh 
Can u please tell me what you use for primer again ? 
Emulsa bond , r x and duration gloss ?

Or am I reading this wrong. I am just curious 
Thanks !


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## Welshfampainting (Feb 5, 2011)

Yes, I mix those products all tog ther to whip up a primer that is high build, high adhesion, and high in titanium dioxide(the SW duration gloss) and I am making some today and remembered I also mix in SW exterior wood primer. Ratio is roughly 2 gallons primer rx, 1 gallon duration gloss, 1 gallon exterior wood primer, a half gallon of emulsabond(flood makes it, same company as floetrol) , sometimes we add a third gallon of floetrol to help it level out nicely. The wood primer helps with penetration, emulsabond creates incredible adhesion( something primer rx alone lacks in comparison to the old xim peel bond) the duration gloss ups the titanium dioxide, promoting elasticity etc etc etc


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Welshfampainting said:


> Yes, I mix those products all tog ther to whip up a primer that is high build, high adhesion, and high in titanium dioxide(the SW duration gloss) and I am making some today and remembered I also mix in SW exterior wood primer. Ratio is roughly 2 gallons primer rx, 1 gallon duration gloss, 1 gallon exterior wood primer, a half gallon of emulsabond(flood makes it, same company as floetrol) , sometimes we add a third gallon of floetrol to help it level out nicely. The wood primer helps with penetration, emulsabond creates incredible adhesion( something primer rx alone lacks in comparison to the old xim peel bond) the duration gloss ups the titanium dioxide, promoting elasticity etc etc etc


Unless you are a trained paint chemist I would strongly suggest against making up your own concoctions. You are playing a dangerous game.


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Do tell 
What exterior primer do you use ?
I am interested


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Your work looks awesome! But seriously, I'm the only hillbilly paint lab on Painttalk! And in my personal opinion you are playing with fire. If any of that concoction should ever fail, you won't even get replacement product. You just voided all kinds of warranty terms.

But if it lasts forever? Good job. The color schemes are awesome, and those houses look incredible.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Mr Smith said:


> Unless you are a trained paint chemist I would strongly suggest against making up your own concoctions. You are playing a dangerous game.


I don't think he would have a problem with the concoction he is making. I'm not sure adding the wood primer really helps at all, as the prime rx is a bonding primer to wood, so it seems unnecessary. But adding EB and floetrol is fine as they are paint additives and are sold by SW.

I personally mix 4gal prime rx and 1gallon of Duration together when I have to prime and fill really crappy siding, but the purpose for me is to add color as the prime rx really cannot be tinted because it is a clear type product. Using the Duration in the primer, seems logical as it will be the topcoat and no sense in using a $20/cheap paint just to save a little.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Great work Welsh! The second house has a great scheme. 
I must say I have never heard of anyone offering a 30 year warranty on architectural before.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> the purpose for me is to add color as the prime rx really cannot be tinted because it is a clear type product.


It can be tinted but it won't come out like a normal primer would. I usually always have it tinted otherwise it dries and it's hard to see where you sprayed. Makes it look like you missed certain spots but didn't because it's drying out in those spots.

Not sure I would add paint to it by mixing paint into it. If anything maybe some dye just to see. 

Top coat will ensure a good seal, even though the primer does a good job of it anyway.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> It can be tinted but it won't come out like a normal primer would. I usually always have it tinted otherwise it dries and it's hard to see where you sprayed. Makes it look like you missed certain spots but didn't because it's drying out in those spots.
> 
> Not sure I would add paint to it by mixing paint into it. If anything maybe some dye just to see.
> 
> Top coat will ensure a good seal, even though the primer does a good job of it anyway.


I tried to have it tinted but it became so dark with just a little tint, that at $35 for duration and prime rx at $28, figured not much of a sacrifice do a 4:1 mix ratio. I used to just use multipurpose primer but did not like the consistancy.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Have you heard of SW Rejuvenate? It seem like it might fit the bill for these types of projects. It came out last fall so I haven't heard much about it.

SW was promoting it at their Pro Show in Seattle. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

PNW Painter said:


> Have you heard of SW Rejuvenate? It seem like it might fit the bill for these types of projects. It came out last fall so I haven't heard much about it.
> 
> SW was promoting it at their Pro Show in Seattle.
> 
> ...


I have not seen in stores yet. If I remember it is a filling finish coat for a really crappy surface that had not been taken care of. Same idea as the deck coatings that hide all the sins of no maintenance for years. Just more products aimed at the cheap a$$ HO who fails to take care of their home.


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## paintpimp (Jun 29, 2007)

Rejuvenate is sort of like prime rx with a sheen. Spray one coat, backbrush, spray another coat immediately. Leave it be.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

I was just talking to my rep about rejuvenate today...I've go an old and very unmaintained pita with cedar shake. Ho already had it pressurewashed by ?? It's going on the market so the ho doesn't want to spend much. My rep was saying this product would be the way to go. Gonna give it a test drive if we get the job. Nothing to lose on it if it fails down the road...two words :FOR SALE


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## paintpimp (Jun 29, 2007)

It is a wet on wet product. Otherwise you need to wait awhile if you let the first coat dry.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I used it on a garage where the paint was peeling everywhere. I brushed it and it worked beautifully to adhere all the loose chips down. This was after considerable scraping first. It is like Elmer's glue. Milky white, dries clear. It's been 2 winters since that job, and it still looks great. At less than $10 a gallon, it works great for it's intended purpose.


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