# I coated my first tub today



## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

A while back I asked about Ameriglaze tub refinishing classes. No one was familiar one way or the other so I took the class and was well pleased. Today I finished my 90 year old claw foot tub. I ended up with a run the first time waited about two hours and sanded it out the was able to shoot three more coats. I am very pleased with the final product. 

Looks like I have two paying jobs lined up as soon as I feel ready. The spraying inside a tight area like a tub is taking a little getting use to I think I will spray at least one more before doing one for money. 

I am excited about this new revenue stream. It covered tubs, tile, and counter tops. A nice hard smooth finish. The tubs are ready to use 4 to 5 hours after I leave. 

Jim


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Sounds like the class was well worth, good job! Got any pics?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I have a tub to refinish in a rental. Currently shopping options. I sprayed the tub walls back in the late 80's with automotive paint after I sprayed my van. Its still shiny but yellowed, held up great otherwise.

I am hoping for a solution to do the tub and go over the tub walls again.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Painting clawfoots is great....collecting them is addictive. I was up to 5 last spring. Sprayed them all, sold all but two of them. One's a little shorty and the other is a monster, (7.5 ft). Have to use an auto floor jack just to get one end up on the 4 wheel dollies. I used the XIM product for just about all the ones I ever did. Did automotive on two because of the wild colors they wanted. Some of these have well over 10 years on them with no failure. I agree that the first coat can be tricky, but as long as you remember it should act mainly as a tack coat, you shouldn't have any problems.

Other than the clawfoots, most of them I did was fire/smoke resto. The insurance companies liked that I was able to do that and paid very well for it. They saved quite a bit because there wasn't any demo, install, and other trades involved. I liked doing them, great money for the work.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

paintr56 said:


> A while back I asked about Ameriglaze tub refinishing classes. No one was familiar one way or the other so I took the class and was well pleased. Today I finished my 90 year old claw foot tub. I ended up with a run the first time waited about two hours and sanded it out the was able to shoot three more coats. I am very pleased with the final product.
> 
> 
> I looked into this as well and have not pursued this further. Is this the nasty isocyanate stuff that you need fresh air respiration with? What equipment did you use to spray with?


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

For those of you who do tubs, do you run into a "going rate" situation? I would think that with a small job like tubs, its treated more like a commody and getting _your _price could be more difficult.


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

*I used Mega-Fast Poly-Glass® 320 High Gloss Resin from Napco it was a two part resin and catalyst. **It should work well for your tub and walls Jack*. *It is low VOC and the smell does disipate very quickly.www.napcoltd.com/training.asp*
*
I forget what the product is , but it seams like it was some type of Aliphatic Urethane** not an Isocyanate it does contain xylene so it isn't good for you. I used a fume extractor and a respirator rated for vapors. That is what we used at the class, the instructor did say a forced air system would be better for continuous exposure. I may start using my forced air system if I start doing a lot of tubs. 

I will try to get some pictures up tomorrow.

Jim 


*


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

Oh Jeff I forgot to say I used a cap spray 75 HVLP to spray the tub. It work well just took a little getting used to keeping the right distance while going down the side across the bottom and back up the other side. I need to develop a little more muscle memory.

Jim


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

I wonder if it would be necessary to fill the tub up with hot water to help bring up the tub's temp to help the paint go off?


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

paintr56 said:


> Oh Jeff I forgot to say I used a cap spray 75 HVLP to spray the tub. It work well just took a little getting used to keeping the right distance while going down the side across the bottom and back up the other side. I need to develop a little more muscle memory.
> 
> Jim


Spraying "reverse curves" can be a little tricky, but I'll share a little advice with you on this. Make sure you keep your distance equal by going up the sides - if you're a little further away from the bottom, it's ok. It's a flat horizontal surface which will allow for natural flow out. Another thing I learned that using a compressor fed cup gun works a little better on these as you're able to feather in the amount of material on the surfaces.

One more thing: If you can't afford a forced air respirator, at least go with a full-face. Be sure to use the right cartridges and trash them after every job.


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks for the advise Wolfgang. 

I have a forced air respirator I just need to pick up a mask. The hood I use for sand blasting is just too bulky to be comfortable working in a tight bathroom. 

As far as the spray tips I will certainly try focusing on the sides. I think I will keep with the HVLP for a while. I think I can get this down and it is easier to transport then a compressor and gun. At least for the gun I have it takes a fair sized compressor.

Jim


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

If you're comfortable with the HVLP, then that's the way to go - I just learned spraying back in the 70's (LOL) using cup guns and like using them. Invest in the proper mask *before* you get into doing many more.....it's cheaper than dying.


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

I intend to get the half mask when I schedule my first paying job. I don't think I would have done my own with out the forced air if it wasn't for the fume extractor. It does a nice job in a small room like a bath room. Another thing I liked about the extractor is it created a negative pressure in the bathroom so any over spray wouldn't leave the room. That made it easy to protect the job site. 

Jim


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> For those of you who do tubs, do you run into a "going rate" situation? I would think that with a small job like tubs, its treated more like a commody and getting _your _price could be more difficult.



I would think the opposite, Paul. Its a specialty niche that requires expertise, working with volatile materials and specialty equipment. When sold as an alternative to replacement, I would think it would be very lucrative and an easy sell (i.e ripping out and replacing a tile bathroom versus having the tile painted).


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

That was my thinking too when I decided to look into this. I know there aren't many doing this work in my area. I will let you guys know in six months or so when I have some experience with selling it.

Jim


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

Here are a couple of before and after shots of the tub. Don't look at the walls they are working their way up a long list on a complete remodel of the house. They will all be taken down to studs, insulated, one wall will be moved to expand the bathroom.

Thanks for all the encouragement.


Jim


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## c65jones (Mar 27, 2011)

Great before and after pics. Looks great!


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

Looks awesome!

I wouldn't mind getting into this kind of work


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

BC_Painter said:


> Looks awesome!
> 
> I wouldn't mind getting into this kind of work


If you are serious I would recommend the weekend classes I took here in Chicago. /www.napcoltd.com/training.asp

They are set up to accommodate people from out of town, and Chicago is not a bad place to visit.

The class was just two days long with very little wasted time. we took a few short breaks each day and walked about a block to a Wendys for a quick lunch. The rest of the time was split between the class room and hands on training.

Jim


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

paintr56 said:


> If you are serious I would recommend the weekend classes I took here in Chicago. /www.napcoltd.com/training.asp
> 
> They are set up to accommodate people from out of town, and Chicago is not a bad place to visit.
> 
> ...



Chicago might be a bit far for me to travel! 

I've got a friend in Michigan I'd visit if I were to make the trip.

Are the products that they teach to use available in Canada? I'm on the west coast. I might have to find a similar class closer to home


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

BC_Painter said:


> Chicago might be a bit far for me to travel!
> 
> I've got a friend in Michigan I'd visit if I were to make the trip.
> 
> Are the products that they teach to use available in Canada? I'm on the west coast. I might have to find a similar class closer to home


Im in Michigan too :thumbsup: A short 4 hour drive from Chicago :whistling2:


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Looks great....I've been intrigued with this process also.


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

*BC_Painter,

I'm not sure if they ship to Canada or not. I know they ship all over the U.S. They are good about answering Email. 

Jim
*


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## paintr56 (Jan 21, 2010)

I did my first paying job last week. Discount rate to a steady apartment client just to get some more experience. Made $220 after expenses. Should have taken a little under four hours, but I got a run on the final coat and by the time it dried so I could sand it out and recoat I was there 6.5 hours. Once I get better I think it will be a profitable addition revenue stream. Looking to get closer to $375 after expenses when I quit discounting. 

Jim


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