# T111 Siding



## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Been doing alot of exterior bids and exteriors this year and I dont know about other areas, but I have never seen so much rotted/damaged T111 siding as I have this year. I'm not talking about the lower course where U/G sprinklers may hit, but the 2nd and 3rd course up. These arent older homes either, probably in the 7 - 12 year range.

As a painter, I'd love to be able to use pictures of these showing why a new construction paint job sucks and what happens when you wait too long to repair and repaint your house.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

T111 is such a bad choice for siding, I wish contractors would give up on it or at least use the hardie board version of it. those horizontal joint where two sheets meet is always asking for water to enter even if its flashed right seems it still gets underneath it.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Have you tried back rolling peel stop before you paint on t-111?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Wolf are you replacing the stuff? Good money in it man. I guess it is just that time where the stuff wears out. There isn't a whole lot of options as far as what can be used. Smooth board and batts, or T1-11 or what stucco of different types? I guess there IS hardie... and another maker of a hardie board type product.. but that is really about it, unless you go lap siding


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## 1977corey (Feb 27, 2009)

Wolfgang said:


> Been doing alot of exterior bids and exteriors this year and I dont know about other areas, but I have never seen so much rotted/damaged T111 siding as I have this year. I'm not talking about the lower course where U/G sprinklers may hit, but the 2nd and 3rd course up. These arent older homes either, probably in the 7 - 12 year range.
> 
> As a painter, I'd love to be able to use pictures of these showing why a new construction paint job sucks and what happens when you wait too long to repair and repaint your house.


 I thought i was the only one who noticed that, seriously, Omaha has rotten siding literally everywhere.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

nEighter said:


> Wolf are you replacing the stuff? Good money in it man. I guess it is just that time where the stuff wears out. There isn't a whole lot of options as far as what can be used. Smooth board and batts, or T1-11 or what stucco of different types? I guess there IS hardie... and another maker of a hardie board type product.. but that is really about it, unless you go lap siding


No. That would mean a substantial investment equipment and manpower wise in my business, and at this point in my life I really dont want to do that. Other than people repairing it from storm damage from last year, I'm really not seeing alot of it done either. These are $250-400K homes and people just arent repairing them...baffles me in a way.


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## ledgestonepainting (Mar 18, 2009)

Last year all I did was repair/ replace siding. Of coarse have the painting business or ability got me the painting contract also. Really good money in it. Started selling itself, first house got me the neighbor, neighbor got me the guy down the street. Once someone sees whats possible it's hard to turn down.














I added the 1x6 skirting around the bottom as this area seems to be the worst at "wicking". The homeowner loved the look and the neighbor also. If anyone can swing it I think it's a great market. I'm considering making it my primary business, and there is so much of it out there. As far as what can happen when you don't replace it, here:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Yeup! I am looking at a place on saturday, has 6 or 7 pieces that need replaced. One is at the soffit and I will need to take all that apart to get to it.. not going to be cheap. BTW Ledge.. you install flashing when you did those? You can order Miratec, it is a GREAT synthetic wood product, easy to work with and has a 25yr warranty.


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## ledgestonepainting (Mar 18, 2009)

I flashed the horizontal joints with Z channel. The bottom 1x6 is beveled 5 degrees on top and caulked along the siding to allow for run off. I tried using some metal to flash the bottom 1x6 with but I and the HO didn't like the look. I told the HO that he needs to keep an eye on the caulking because if it fails water could get in behind it. I also ran an adhesive flashing under the 1x6 and wrapped it under the siding. The 1x6 hangs 2 to 3 inches past the bottom of the siding, then used expanding foam between the 1x6 and the foundation. All the trim that I used was Smart Trim. It was my first dealings with it and so far I've been impressed.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

next time don't use expanding foam. If the water gets back there behind it it will get trapped. Really once flashed it should be good, IF water gets back there it will run out the bottom if not caulked or other. Sounds awesome man! I love doing this type of repair  REALLY make a place look like gold.

Here is an example of doing just that:


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## ledgestonepainting (Mar 18, 2009)

Yeah I thought about that (trapping the water) afterwards. It was really more of the homeowners idea. I found two LARGE nest of ants inside the wall. The first was so bad the homeowner called out a exterminator! I guess he had them on speed dial. Anyway the foam was to prevent any more infestations but I did think of that and wished I hadn't done it. I wonder how hard it would be to pull it out?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

ledgestonepainting said:


> Yeah I thought about that (trapping the water) afterwards. It was really more of the homeowners idea. I found two LARGE nest of ants inside the wall. The first was so bad the homeowner called out a exterminator! I guess he had them on speed dial. Anyway the foam was to prevent any more infestations but I did think of that and wished I hadn't done it. I wonder how hard it would be to pull it out?



His idea I would leave it


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Did you put up new sheeting and tyvek? Replace some insulation too maybe? Sounds like a pretty big job by the time you do all that.


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## vINYlpaInts4352 (Jan 31, 2014)

*Reply*

Its really better to change the siding. Its not very common these days. You can try vinyl or hardiplank. This might help you choose.

Siding Replacement


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I agree with you, but I think it has a lot to do with the fact that most applications are merely sprayed on, rather than sprayed & back-rolled. For that kind of siding, I don't think it's an option to just spray.


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

Although it is super time and material absorbing I always spray and back brush T111. First coat anyhow. Takes forever but looks great when its done.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

As I've mentioned before, they say that the "T" in T1-11 stands for Texture, but I think it really stands for "Temporary". We've tried PPG Permanizer, United's Bonding Primer, and a host of other solutions. In our experience, they are all stopgap measures. The basic design is flawed, the grooves expose voids in the middle plies, allowing water to infiltrate.

Ledgestone, the ants are there because the wood is damp, and I don't think the foam is going to stop them, unless you used something like IPF Pest Control foam.

I think the only real solution is to re-side. A lot of the buildings with T1-11 were designed with vertical siding in mind, so it's tough to convince HOs to change to something like FC lap siding for aesthetic reasons. To deal with that, we install HardiPanel Sierra 8, which looks similar to T1-11. As Schmidt pointed out, that requires some re-tooling. We've done HardiPlank for years, so that's not a big deal. For us, the bigger problem is that hanging HardiPanel is a young man's sport: the 4x9 panels weigh over 80 pounds each. It's also critical to get the flashing details right to avoid water problems.


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