# Flashing / lap mark issues.



## Kinglee (Mar 6, 2013)

Hi guys names lee, im from the uk and been decorating for 6 years, recently gone off on my own.

Having some issues rolling a hallway wall, the hallway has alot of light shining on it and shows everything.

Im using dulux soft sheen with a 15inch medium pile skin, my rolling technique is to roll from top to bottom with even strokes while always leaving a wet edge, i then load more paint start roughly 7/8 inches away fom my wet edge and paint into it, i use this method all the way along the wall, for some reason the lap marks are drying uneven and it looks awful.

Does anyone have any better sugestions, im my own worse critc and the finish on these walls are annoying me. 

Here are a few doodgey pics cant see the lines that well.



















Anyone? 

Thanks lee


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Hard to tell from the pics, are you doing 2 coats? Oh and welcome to PT..


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## Kinglee (Mar 6, 2013)

The colour was orginally yellow, iv applied 1 mist coat of matt contract matt and two coats of soft sheen, im putting on a final coat tomorow.

Sorry about pics its hard to catch the wall in the rite light. 

Basically you can see lap marks all the way down the wall. I have not really ever come across this problem but maybe thats because i havnt had this much light on a area i have painted.

Thanks for the weclome.

*edit* on the 2nd pic at the bottom you can see the line marks


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Not really sure what's happening but after you roll a couple feet go back and before the paint dries go from top to bottom, then lift roller move a few inches and repeat. I think you may be seeing the different texture that a roller will leave from going up and down...hope this makes sense to you


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Im assuming the walls are not new drywall. Backroll your walls as you go . :thumbsup:


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## Kinglee (Mar 6, 2013)

Yeah guys sorry i forgot to say i did back roll, i think the issue might be down to my rollerskin (nap) its a microfiber not woven, going to try woven on top coat.


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## bloodnut (Nov 11, 2009)

Glancing light from the fluro's, sheen will settle over time, those square metallic light reflectors are bouncing light all over narrow hallway.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

I can't really tell from the photos, but are they lap really marks or something else?

The reason I asked is that we've had clients raise a fuss about our "lap marks", which turned out to be the mud on the rows of GWB fasteners. The walls had been painted flat, sorry, matte, and we were applying semigloss. The difference in sheen made the "stripes" of mud visible. I'll admit that when they called me back, I first thought they were lap marks as well, until I sorted out the pattern.


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

I can see what your talking about, sometimes it comes from the change in direction in the way you rolled. It is intensified from the light and the sheen level of the paint. If the light is diffused then the angular sheen will be less noticeable.

It is my opinion that unless the wall is at a level 5, you will always have some type of angular sheen from certain angles. Most wont pick up on it, but It bothers the heck out of me and drives me nuts. I've tried every trick in the book, but since paint formulas have changed in the past 5 years to be voc/epa compliant, this problem won't be going away...


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

You have to be careful with the microfibers. They take a little bit different technique and frustrated the hell out of me when I first started using them. Anyway, go back and look at it; it may have dried down.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Well assuming you've thinned down your paint properly so it doesnt dry too fast,you might also try starting your next pass closer then 7 or 8 inches away from where you just rolled.

If you roll a section of wall,then dip again and start 8 inches away and then roll back into the first section,that first section of paint may have started to set up to where if you roll back into it,that paint that has started to dry will look ugly when you roll over it again,kinda like ropey brushmarks.

Water based paint needs to be put on heavy,laid off and left alone,you dont have a lot of time to mess with it,especially a sheened paint,flat you can get away with murder,once you add sheen,you gotta be quick,only mess with it while it's wet.

And I dont know Dulux paint in the UK but where I'm from,ICI-Dulux sux!


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## Kinglee (Mar 6, 2013)

Thanks for help lads but things got even worse today.

I was putting the finale coat on, and the paint started reacting :/ was getting seriouse blisters / bubbles. Not small ones either bubbles that are noticable from across the room.

I have painted the whole upstairs of this buildung and iv not had one issue, just seems like this hallway is out to get me.

I have sorted it lucky i had some zinnser stain cover on me so i had to sand it back and prime it, got a coat of softsheen on before i went home and no bubbles  

Still have lap mark problem though walls look awful with this much light shining on them. Just going to give up :/ im scared if i keep adding coats its just going to react again.

Also dulux in the uk is one of the leading brands of paint, but i really dont like the softsheen they make.


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## Benco (Mar 7, 2013)

It's not your fault brotha! All the newer paints these days flash. I've tried everything! Over time the lines will diminish but it's tough to tell the customer that. Have your paint rep come out and see if he can get rid of it. Betcha he can't!


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

Benco said:


> It's not your fault brotha! All the newer paints these days flash. I've tried everything! Over time the lines will diminish but it's tough to tell the customer that. Have your paint rep come out and see if he can get rid of it. Betcha he can't!


:notworthy: My rep is always practicing his golf swing when he comes out.....When I show him, he says it will die down eventually and begins air swinging again.

True story.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

From what I read it sounds like you are dipping your roller then making say 4 passes then dipping your roller again then you overlap 7/8" and start rolling again. If this is correct what I think is happening is when you are starting to roll your roller is loaded by the time you get to the 4th pass (use any number) the roller is pretty dry. Then you are starting over with a full one again.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

matt19422 said:


> :notworthy: My rep is always practicing his golf swing when he comes out.....When I show him, he says it will die down eventually and begins air swinging again.
> 
> True story.


 Your rep sounds like a real swinger!:whistling2:


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## Kinglee (Mar 6, 2013)

Cheers for help peeps, going back to this job on monday too carry on with some more areas, will see how it now looks.

Toolnut, so in theory you think i should make less passes ? Could be worth a try thing is i use the method all the time and dont normally come across this problem.


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## GrantsPainting (Feb 4, 2013)

On the second coat I make sure to work in boxes always spreading out into the surrounding areas. I spread a good coat that wont dry up too quick.

Yup and the woven is key for the higher gloss paints. A lower temperature always helps too.

Also Ive seen this actually being caused by laying off when the paint is drying too quick. Sometimes its better to work quicker so it dries evenly. 

I hate using water in the new paints. Just a tiny bit makes dark colors want to separate and increases the foaminess. I was told to throw in a small cap full of thinner in to help with the foaming and separating, but Im not so sure about that one.


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Paint sleeves (Rollers) are directional by the way... they fluff up when rolling one direction and lay down flat the other.. you have to look at the roller and comb it with your hand to see what im talking about.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I don't do much rolling, but I've heard doing a "W" pattern first to put the paint on the wall and then laying it out in one direction, top to bottom helps with these issues.

Any truth to that? I've tried it both ways and it seems to work either way, but the "W" thing worked pretty good for me.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

woodcoyote said:


> I don't do much rolling, but I've heard doing a "W" pattern first to put the paint on the wall and then laying it out in one direction, top to bottom helps with these issues.
> 
> Any truth to that? I've tried it both ways and it seems to work either way, but the "W" thing worked pretty good for me.


Yea the W works, I roll it sideways at first then finish down. The real trick for seems to be speed, getting it worked out before it starts to dry. And using a lot of paint


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> I don't do much rolling, but I've heard doing a "W" pattern first to put the paint on the wall and then laying it out in one direction, top to bottom helps with these issues.
> 
> Any truth to that? I've tried it both ways and it seems to work either way, but the "W" thing worked pretty good for me.


I worked for a painting contractor that had this wicked (yeah I know wicked) anal painter who would always flip out on me because I never did the "W" before rolling, I had around 12 yrs more experience then he did (he had around 2yrs) and didn't see the benefit of doing the "W", I have never done it and have never had any issues except when I was working with that guy.


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

one coat of primer (tinted) two topcoats laid off in the same direction,and I also love to give each coat 24 hours to dry .


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

1963 Sovereign said:


> one coat of primer (tinted) two topcoats laid off in the same direction,and I also love to give each coat 24 hours to dry .



Really 24 hours dry time for latex? A couple hours depending on humidity and some toher factors is usually enough.


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## JRSL Interiors (Feb 15, 2013)

Hello lee. I'm from London so I use a lot of dulux as well. What paint is it - vinyl? Try a purdy white dove sleeve 3/8inch nap and lay down every stroke. Roll from top to bottom.


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

cdpainting said:


> Really 24 hours dry time for latex? A couple hours depending on humidity and some toher factors is usually enough.


 I find it is much easier to pole sand in between coats if dried for 24 hours.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

woodcoyote said:


> I don't do much rolling, but I've heard doing a "W" pattern first to put the paint on the wall and then laying it out in one direction, top to bottom helps with these issues.
> 
> Any truth to that? I've tried it both ways and it seems to work either way, but the "W" thing worked pretty good for me.


 M pattern works better!


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## modernfinish (Mar 20, 2013)

I use an Z pattern .. Pfffft , I dip it heavy roll down dip it again same way spread it kinda evenly over a 3to 4 ft width from where I stand in on spot and lay it of a couple times and then move down wall ... Mindless after so many years ya normally don't even think about these things ha


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## GrantsPainting (Feb 4, 2013)

cdpainting said:


> I worked for a painting contractor that had this wicked (yeah I know wicked) anal painter who would always flip out on me because I never did the "W" before rolling, I had around 12 yrs more experience then he did (he had around 2yrs) and didn't see the benefit of doing the "W", I have never done it and have never had any issues except when I was working with that guy.


Well roll out that new paint just like you would the ol lead paint. Im sure it will work out well for ya. No matter how many times they change the formula, you should never learn new and better techniques.


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