# douglas fir deck



## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

I have a client who has two covered porches. The flooring on each is Douglas Fir planks, tounge-in-groove (I guess that's what was used back when this house was built 70+ years ago). Anyway, she's having it sanded down to the bare wood after years of painting; and wants me to put something on it that will protect the wood against the elements yet keep the natural wood look. She's open to a slight stain.

I've never worked with Douglas Fir before. Any suggestions as to what would best protect the decking from the elements and hold up so as to avoid having to restain it every year?

Thanks in advance.


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

BM deck and siding finish natural. great look, I use it on all my decks.
steve


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

nothing will work


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Gasoline and matches


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> nothing will work


.....which is why it lasted 70+ years.:whistling2:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

E&J Painting said:


> I have a client who has two covered porches. The flooring on each is Douglas Fir planks, tounge-in-groove (I guess that's what was used back when this house was built 70+ years ago). Anyway, she's having it sanded down to the bare wood after years of painting; and wants me to put something on it that will protect the wood against the elements yet keep the natural wood look. She's open to a slight stain.
> 
> I've never worked with Douglas Fir before. Any suggestions as to what would best protect the decking from the elements and hold up so as to avoid having to restain it every year?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If they are covered and won't get any sun exposure, spar such as epifanes. If they dont get much weather exposure at all, how about a good big fat penetrating oil?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Wolfgang said:


> .....which is why it lasted 70+ years.:whistling2:


Wolf brings up a good point. If it is old enough to have a very tight grain u could leave it without anything on it, but sure that is not what they want. If they are going to take it down to wood, remember less is more. a light oil stain is all you need. 
Should that be check or Visa? lol


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

Paint it. That's what kept it in good condition.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Wolfgang said:


> .....which is why it lasted 70+ years.:whistling2:


I am not saying that fir isn't tough - I am saying that transparent/semitransparent deck stains do not work on that wood.

The wood is best cleaned with bleach each spring and left alone to grey - or use a porch and floor paint on it if it's covered with a roof.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Sanding all that old coating off? Jeez, there's got to be an easier way.


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

The owner wants it sanded down to the bare wood and wants to see the wood - so she's not open to having it repainted. I'm looking for the most durable coating for fir that will retain the wood look (ie., not painted).


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You would probably be best with a penetrating oil. Just let them know it will require maintenance ever 2-3 years to keep in good condition.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

most of our wood around here is doug fir, I prefer semi transparent stain it adds more protection from the foot traffic than the transparent stains, but it wears a little different so the maintenance coating will not be as easy, depending on what color you go with.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Look into pure tung oil. May require a more labor but will provide a nice looking natural wet look. Wikipedia has a good write up on application techniques.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Olympic dries pretty flat, but I would wipe off the excess as I go anyway to keep the flash down.


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