# Wallpaper removal



## finaltouch0 (Jul 14, 2011)

Well, won a bid for paper removal. I came across this product that looks great, just wondering if anyone has heard of it, or used it? Simple Strip by Wallwik.

http://www.simplestrip.com/

Thoughts PLEEEEASE............


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Easy Bill.


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## finaltouch0 (Jul 14, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> Easy Bill.


????


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

finaltouch0 said:


> ????


Inside joke. Bill is a wallpaper guy that has had some disagreements with the Wallwik stuff. So I was implying him to be nice. 

Sorry I can not help wih your question as I have never used that stuff before.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I've never heard of it. I can say that I have yet to see anything beat good old H2O with a little palmolive in it. If you found the magic wallpaper bullet please do share your results if you decide to purchase it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

*Wallwik not worth the money*

I still can't believe the guy actually tried to bribe me to stop posting about the product.

In four simple words.

ain't worth the money

yes it does work, but there ain't nuthing special about it. If you have a need to wet and cover a stripping job, then buy some safe & simple, or even DIF, soak the paper and cover with 1 mil plastic.


Is it neater? NO. Is it quicker? NO. Is it way more expensive? YES. 

using a scoring tool presents a huge possibility of scoring the walls, plus it doesn't break through the surface as well as 36 grit paper in a palm sander

That hand pump spray bottle is essentially useless for a whole room. I bought a very similar one for small powders. It wasn't worth the time to fill and pump it up. I continued to use my three gallon garden sprayer onto which I put a 20 ft hose.

That chemical is no better that any other. 

From reliable PROFESSIONAL paperhangers, the reports are that in many many situations the Wallwik non-woven covering will need to be resprayed every so often to keep it wet. No different than the conventional way of stripping. 

as I said, it works, but just is not worth the cost or the hassle.

I just hope a company rep doesn't petition this thread to be edited like they did a few years ago here and to the NGPP.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> Inside joke. Bill is a wallpaper guy that has had some disagreements with the Wallwik stuff. So I was implying him to be nice.
> 
> Sorry I can not help wih your question as I have never used that stuff before.



OK, to explain. in 2009 I posted my experience and observations about the Wallwik System coupled with reports from various top professional wallpaper installers. The conclusions we all drew are outlined in my above post.

A guy by the name of Paul Rydzyk contacted the NGPP forum chair and literally bribed him to edit the posts. Bribed him by promising to join the NGPP, which they never did.

I posted a similar conclusion here, knowing it would not be edited. The mods received THIS "reported post"



> I am sorry to bother you regarding this issue, but my company Wallwik is currently suffering from a campaign of competitor spam.
> 
> I appreciate that Bill Archibald is a regular contributor to your website. However I have been reliably informed by several parties, that he has a special interest in a product called Safe and Simple.
> You will notice that Bill actively goes out of his way to promote Safe and Simple on various posts, both on your website and the NGPP.
> ...


A) I have no "special interest" in Safe & Simple. It's a product I freely endorse because I know it works. Yes, Mike is a friend of mine, but so are many manufacturers through my past association with the NGPP. And I think most every wallpaper hanger on this forum that has used Safe & Simple will endorse it

B) That "competitor spam" is my posting my opinion about Wallwik

This Paul Rydzyk called on the phone (from England) to remove my posts. I stood by my freedom of speech. He then actually offered me MONEY to remove my posts and to stop opining about his product.

Yes this subject really burns my American butt. Sorry if this sounds like a rant, but I do not harbour grudges, I DRYDOCK them.


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## Greenworks Painting (May 6, 2012)

I agree with Rbriggs, save your money and buy a .99 cent bottle of Palmolive! It cuts grease...and it will help you cut that wallpaper!
_______________________________________________________________
Chicago Painters Chicago Residential Painters Chicago Painting Contractor Chicago Commercial Painters Greenworks Painting, Inc.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

daArch said:


> OK, to explain. in 2009 I posted my experience and observations about the Wallwik System coupled with reports from various top professional wallpaper installers. The conclusions we all drew are outlined in my above post.
> 
> A guy by the name of Paul Rydzyk contacted the NGPP forum chair and literally bribed him to edit the posts. Bribed him by promising to join the NGPP, which they never did.
> 
> ...


Like the forking spam people?:jester:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

the problem with any dish soap is that is more difficult to rinse off.

It sure does stay wet and helps wets out the old paste, but the repetitive rinsing and rinsing and rinsing cuts into profits.

If you want cheap, go with NON-sudsy ammonia, and if you really want to cut down the cost, roll it on with a roller. But all these money saving tactics have a down side - more time needed.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

daArch said:


> the problem with any dish soap is that is more difficult to rinse off.
> 
> It sure does stay wet and helps wets out the old paste, but the repetitive rinsing and rinsing and rinsing cuts into profits.
> 
> If you want cheap, go with NON-sudsy ammonia, and if you really want to cut down the cost, roll it on with a roller. But all these money saving tactics have a down side - more time needed.


 Are you sure about that Bill?They do have there new dish soap product called Fresh sponge.:whistling2:


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## finaltouch0 (Jul 14, 2011)

So, there are a bunch of great suggestions here and some mixed reviews on "how-to." Can someone summarize their best, most affordable method? Any tricks for the soffits above cabinets? (such a small area) 

What I gathered is... 
step 1 - sand with 36 grit
step 2 - garden sprayer plain old H20
step 3 - cover with 1 mil plastic
step 4 - remove

My only concern is damaging the drywall. This is a higher end house that I will be painting and would love to have the best results. 
I have removed wallpaper using my steamer but always textured, this house will will get only sand texture. They have more work for us to do, but of course I gotta start with the most difficult task.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

finaltouch0 said:


> So, there are a bunch of great suggestions here and some mixed reviews on "how-to." Can someone summarize their best, most affordable method? Any tricks for the soffits above cabinets? (such a small area)
> 
> What I gathered is...
> step 1 - sand with 36 grit
> ...


IF the paper has a moisture barrier on it (vinyl or acrylic coating OR painted) then bust through that with 36. If it is a straight up pulp, then just spray.

I use Safe and Simple as my stripping solution. Plain old water has no surfactants and will not be as efficient

The covering with plastic is only necessary for certain situations.

Once you remove, wash residue paste off wall.

If you search the wallpaper section here, you will find many explanations of the steps and what to use in certain situation. I'm too lazy to re-explain it all again.

After you read all here and have specific questions, please ask.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

finaltouch0 said:


> So, there are a bunch of great suggestions here and some mixed reviews on "how-to." Can someone summarize their best, most affordable method? Any tricks for the soffits above cabinets? (such a small area)
> 
> What I gathered is...
> step 1 - sand with 36 grit
> ...


The way you remove wallpaper will vary depending on the type of paper and what the paper was hung over. 

Here's how I do it for the majority of the paper I encounter. 
1. Remove top layer of paper. The tools to do this will vary. Sometimes you can run a putty knife down the seems and pull it off in whole sheets and other times you need a wallpaper scraper. 

2. Fill a garden sprayer with water and add a little Palmolive. 

3. Spray the walls. When you see the paper back lining turn from light brown to dark brown it's time to start removing it. I prefer to do two walls at a time. 

4. Use a 4inch spackle blade to remove the lining. 

5. Lightly spray the walls again

6. Take spackle blade and trough and scrap paste into the trough starting from the top down.

7. Fill a five gallon bucket with hot water and wash the remaining glue off the walls.

8. Gaurdz the walls, spackle, paint.

An average room takes me about 4hrs to do with the method described above with the exception of step 8. 

On 2 out of 10 wallpaper jobs I encounter is the harder kind. The top layer won't pull off and the top layer is much thinner. When this happens you need to use a wallpaper dagger to perforate the surface then saturate the wall and remove. Afterwards follow step 2 though 8. 

Everyone has their own way of doing it this is just my method that has worked for me. I remove wallpaper at least once a month so having that much experience doing will naturally make you faster than others with limited experience. No two wall paper removal jobs are the same. Sometimes you'll run into one that makes you want to bang your head against the wall and sometimes it's really easy, it just depends.


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## davedrew (Mar 8, 2011)

finaltouch0 said:


> Well, won a bid for wallpaper removal
> 
> http://www.simplestrip.com/
> 
> Thoughts PLEEEEASE............



Hope you bid it *HIGH*, or by the hour. I've never given a bid to remove wallpaper other than by the hour. Stripping wallpaper is like a box of chocolates ... ya never know what you're gonna get.

Never heard of simple strip. 

I've always used hot water and a wet rag to soak the wall down. On occasion, I used a garden pump spray with hot water. Water is free!!!

If it's vinyl, I would use the scribe roller tool to score the surface and then soak many times to get the top coat off. Then soak down the paper underside again and let sit for a 20 minutes. Sometimes soak five or six times. Than take the paper bottom layer off.

Last, scrub the wall with a green scotch pad soaked in hot water to get the rest of the glue off, and wipe down with a wet rag. Sometimes the wet rag is enough, but sometimes needed the scotch pad.

I always told the homeowner that I would bid by the hour only and worst case would be to end up re-texturing the entire surface. The more you educate them, the more they tend to like you.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Bill, what's your thoughts on vinegar?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Rbriggs82 said:


> The way you remove wallpaper will vary depending on the type of paper and what the paper was hung over.
> 
> Here's how I do it for the majority of the paper I encounter.
> 1. Remove top layer of paper. The tools to do this will vary. Sometimes you can run a putty knife down the seems and pull it off in whole sheets and other times you need a wallpaper scraper.
> ...


 

glue did you actually say *GLUE:bangin::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:*


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

chrisn said:


> glue did you actually say GLUE:bangin::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:


Lol I'm surprised Bill hasn't called me out on that. I realized it after I posted and was going to edit it but I got distracted.


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

When I remove wallpaper I usually use Parahnah wallpaper remover. My local BM sells it. It has a enzyme in it that brakes down the adhesive.

If it is a paper backing wallpaper I will pull the covering off by hand then apply the wallpaper stripper to the paper backing that is left on the wall... Then with a putty knife I will remove the paper. Wash and repeat 1 more time to remove glue.

If it a heavier set paper that I cannot get off I will use a commercial steamer to peel it off... Then apply the parahnah stripper to the adhesive and scrape it off... Then wash and repeat once more to remove adhesive....

Wallpaper removal is pretty labour intensive and takes a lot of time to properly prep the surfaces... If you dont remove all the adhesive and paint over it... Well... It's going to look like hell!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> Bill, what's your thoughts on vinegar?


I have not drawn a conclusive conclusion. It's GREAT in my rinse bucket, and has worked on some PASTES for small areas, and I've liked it WITH Safe and Simple, but I have not been brave enough to try only it from the get go on a job. I ESTIMATE all stripping jobs. I can not afford to chance an unhappy ending. 

I do have intentions of testing it thoroughly some day, that and fabric softner.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

TrueColors said:


> When I remove wallpaper I usually use Parahnah wallpaper remover. My local BM sells it. It has a enzyme in it that brakes down the adhesive.


I was given a sample of Piranha about two years ago. I think I was impressed, but never put it through a full battery of test materials.

What's you verdict on it and how many different papers and pastes did you try?


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

i've probably removed more wallpaper than anyone on this continent.

remove top layer of paper if possible.

fill a garden sprayer or commercial chemical sprayer with hot water mixed with Wallpaper removal solution you can find at any paint store.

score gently with a large paper tiger. i've never had a problem. there might be the odd damage produced from pressing too hard,but expect plenty of prep anyways from gouging with a putty knife or bladed scraper. i've used a dull blade for years and i won't ever replace it with a sharp blade. various size putty knives are also used at times.

spray an entire wall with the chemical solution and let it soak in.

come back in 10 minutes and re-wet about 5 feet of the wall (5'x7'=35 sq ft). this is about 1-2 sheets of wallpaper

let soak for a few minutes and start to scrape. often times it comes off in sheets.i remove the baseboards where possible. start from the bottom and work your way up.

after removing 35 sq feet,wash that small section of wall with hot water and tsp. have another rinse bucket of hot water to clean off the tsp residue.

i use a bee style sponge mop to clean my walls.

move on to the next 35 sq feet (1-2 sheets)and repeat process.

the walls will need a good 4-6 hours to dry from the soaking before prep.

if the walls need extensive prep i mud then prime/seal with acrylic primer. if extremely bad i first seal with oil based coverstain,mud,then prime mud with acrylic sealer,then 2 coats finish paint. (extreme cases)

[i'll have to try the sanding method using 40 grit paper in the future. sounds like a good idea.]


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Xmark said:


> i've probably removed more wallpaper than anyone on this continent.
> 
> 
> score gently with a large paper tiger.


 If I had to remove as much paper as you claim you have with a paper tiger I would leap off the nearest cliff instead.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

Gibberish45 said:


> If I had to remove as much paper as you claim you have with a paper tiger I would leap off the nearest cliff instead.


trust me it's the fastest bestest way bro. i've tried every method known to man.:yes::yes::yes:

scoring it with a paper tiger is actually the easiest,quickest step in the long process. but i'm sure you know that right?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Xmark said:


> trust me it's the fastest bestest way bro. i've tried every method known to man.:yes::yes::yes:



wait till you try 36 in a palm sander

quicker AND opens more surface for chemical infusion.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

daArch said:


> wait till you try 36 in a palm sander
> 
> quicker AND opens more surface for chemical infusion.


quicker? it's basically the same arm movement with a paper tiger and the paper tiger has a much bigger footprint. they have a large one with 3-4 fused together. more effective? possibly. i'm open to trying it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I do have the three roller PT. The difference is that with the PT you have to side to side up and down and round and round (wax on, wax off) to effectively score the paper.

With the palm sander I made one medium speed pass over each width of the sander. 

Last week was a large room, 21 x 17. To break up the monotony, I would either walk from one corner to the other, or bite off six foot widths or go from floor to ceiling.

I am thinking of buying a half sheet sander. 

When you try it, just go over the surface at a medium speed. test it out as you learn in order to understand the optimum speed. If you don't find it easier, quicker, and more efficient, I will be surprised.

OH, either use a sander with a dust collection system, or vacuum up the dust before you spray. It makes a gawd awful mess if you don't.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Xmark said:


> i've tried every method known to man.:yes::yes::yes:



You've never tried a hohlenpoker hotshot


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

finaltouch0 said:


> My only concern is damaging the drywall. This is a higher end house that I will be painting and would love to have the best results.
> I have removed wallpaper using my steamer but always textured, this house will will get only sand texture. They have more work for us to do, but of course I gotta start with the most difficult task.


Please, please, don't sand texture a higher end home. May I ask why this is the texture choice? There are oh so many better options available, sand is so inconsistent and sub par imo.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Xmark said:


> i've probably removed more wallpaper than anyone on this continent.
> 
> remove top layer of paper if possible.
> 
> ...


Last time I used a sprayer to wet the surface the run off went between the wall and baseboard and leaked on the customers basement floor.Luckily the basement was unfinished.Was careful not to over drench and had towels covering the crack of base but still didn't seem to help.Had to literaly soak it with sponge and solution to remove.Really slow going.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> Please, please, don't sand texture a higher end home. May I ask why this is the texture choice? There are oh so many better options available, sand is so inconsistent and sub par imo.


The customer can save on skin exfoliaters. All they need to do is rub up against the walls...


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

mudbone said:


> Last time I used a sprayer to wet the surface the run off went between the wall and baseboard and leaked on the customers basement floor.Luckily the basement was unfinished.Was careful not to over drench and had towels covering the crack of base but still didn't seem to help.Had to literaly soak it with sponge and solution to remove.Really slow going.


Mud,

this is a definite hazard that needs to be addressed. When faced with this potential, I mist VERY lightly and then keep it moist with out the hazard of water running down the walls. 

I've been told of all sorts of taping methods to stop the run off from getting behind the baseboard and wall or between floor and baseboard, I have not found a tape that withstands the water. 

IF sponging is ABSOLUTELY the only solution, try a roller. Little quicker. But judicious MISTING should be the answer


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> The customer can save on skin exfoliaters. All they need to do is rub up against the walls...


I always thought guys put on texture because they didn't know how to make a wall smooth.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Gibberish45 said:


> You've never tried a hohlenpoker hotshot


 

I have one!:yes:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

chrisn said:


> I have one!:yes:



ever used it?


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

Am I the only one that uses a steamer anymore? I've tried dam near every store bought product and every old wives tale and find the steamer way easier and I get so much more done in a day.

Papers off, sand the glue, prime(usually oil sometimes guardz, spacklings done days over.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

941owassard said:


> Am I the only one that uses a steamer anymore? I've tried dam near every store bought product and every old wives tale and find the steamer way easier and I get so much more done in a day.
> 
> Papers off, sand the *glue*, prime(usually oil sometimes guardz, spacklings done days over.



I suggest to take cover in your bomb shelter


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

ProWallGuy said:


> I always thought guys put on texture because they didn't know how to make a wall smooth.


Maybe sand texture, but there are a few I truly like and take skill to pull off correctly.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

daArch said:


> ever used it?


 
not a lot, but when you need one ,you need one, nothing else would work


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

941owassard said:


> Am I the only one that uses a steamer anymore





941owassard said:


> ? I've tried dam near every store bought product and every old wives tale and find the steamer way easier and I get so much more done in a day.
> 
> Papers off, sand the glue, prime(usually oil sometimes guardz, spacklings done days over.


 
yes you are:yes:

ahh, screw it


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## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

Hopeful

```

```
daArch see's this:thumbsup:

I know this is an old thread but removing wallpaper is not something we typically get requests for, however we are bidding on a job that has several rooms which will require it. This thread in particular had good info but wanted to follow up on a few points. 


step 1 - sand with 36 grit (this is only necessary when dealing with acrylic or vinyl) With normal paper wallpaper it’s not advisable to sand or score. Go directly to Step 2. Correct?
step 2 - garden sprayer with water and either DIF or Safe and Simple. Do you spray directly on the wallpaper or first try to remove the top player AND THEN apply the water/stripping solution? Keep reading varying opinions on this. Some people seem to try and strip the top layer off and then starting using the solution where as others spray the wallpaper then peel top layer.
step 3 - cover with 1 mil plastic Covering isn’t necessary, but waiting 10-15 minutes is. Re-apply with fine mist of water, then wait 5-10 minutes.
step 4 – remove ( Should I use dull drywall blade here? I have heard dull is better as you’re less prone damaging the wall) 
Step 5- Does the wall need to be washed with TSP after if using Gardz? Several posts to suggest the answer is NO as Gardz locks everything down and has great adhesion.
Step 6 – Skim as necessary for any touch’s and ready for paint.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

toomuch said:


> Hopeful
> 
> ```
> 
> ...


I'm thinking Chrisn is starting to feel like the Rodney Dangerfield of the paperhangers around here. PWG could probably help here too, but he's more like Ron White, so there ya go. :yes:


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

toomuch said:


> Hopeful daArch see's this:thumbsup:
> 
> I know this is an old thread but removing wallpaper is not something we typically get requests for, however we are bidding on a job that has several rooms which will require it. This thread in particular had good info but wanted to follow up on a few points.
> 
> ...


1. correct
2. hot water, just say NO to the Diff, always strip as much as you can first to get to the backing
3. you need to get it WET, then WET again and again as needed, I have only used the plastic method one time and it really did not speed up the process for me, but if Tim says it works, well then.
4.I use a new blade that I hit with some sandpaper to dull it just a bit
5. just say NO to the TSP, always
6.after washing off as much paste residue as possible, Gardz, skim as needed, sand, clean, and prime again with the Gardz, THEN you can paint


now I am tired of typing


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Chris - I've heard that fabric softer (like liquid downy or??) Is really helpful. Do you know anything about that?


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

lilpaintchic said:


> Chris - I've heard that fabric softer (like liquid downy or??) Is really helpful. Do you know anything about that?


I've tried that in the past. Didn't seem to have any significant impact or benefit over straight up hot water. As hot as your hands can take it.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I like to add a drop of Palmolive to the water. Helps it cling better and stay wet longer. 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Fabric softener in spray bottle*

If you decide to use fabric softener in your spray bottle you may have a difficult time rinsing the bottle out. I did and I also did not find that much difference between using a fabric softener solution vs plain hot water except that it takes a little longer to wash away the fabric softener solution than it did plain water. 

Maybe try an empty glass cleaner spray bottle (that you don't mind recycling) with the fabric softener solution if your curiosity needs to be satisfied. I did not enjoy trying to rinse out my sprayer, which I also use for other things besides stripping wallpaper.

futtyos


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

futtyos said:


> If you decide to use fabric softener in your spray bottle you may have a difficult time rinsing the bottle out. I did and I also did not find that much difference between using a fabric softener solution vs plain hot water except that it takes a little longer to wash away the fabric softener solution than it did plain water.
> 
> Maybe try an empty glass cleaner spray bottle (that you don't mind recycling) with the fabric softener solution if your curiosity needs to be satisfied. I did not enjoy trying to rinse out my sprayer, which I also use for other things besides stripping wallpaper.
> 
> futtyos


Dishwasher.  I use that thing for weird stuff sometimes. Ball caps, hard to clean vases, light globes, my hubby put a couple of rims for his car in there...that was interesting...lol and that's where I had to draw the line.haha

Wonder if it would screw up my pump...? I use the airless on wallpaper removal sometimes.


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## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

chrisn said:


> 5. just say NO to the TSP, always
> 
> 
> 
> now I am tired of typing


Chrisn

Are you saying for #5 using TSP to clean is NOT necessary after the wallpaper has been removed, if Gardz will be used.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

toomuch said:


> Chrisn
> 
> Are you saying for #5 using TSP to clean is NOT necessary after the wallpaper has been removed, if Gardz will be used.


I am saying that TSP should never be used period.....


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

lilpaintchic said:


> Chris - I've heard that fabric softer (like liquid downy or??) Is really helpful. Do you know anything about that?


Why, yes, I do. It does nothing for removal but make it smell.

Nice or bad(smell) to me ,bad.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I like to add a drop of Palmolive to the water. Helps it cling better and stay wet longer.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


true enough:thumbsup:


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Just re-read the entire thread and only one refrence to a stance and that's all we use. If a steamer won't budge it. You're in for a long day. We wet the walls first with the large yellow sponges and then let the steamer do the work


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Just re-read the entire thread and only one refrence to a stance and that's all we use. If a steamer won't budge it. You're in for a long day. We wet the walls first with the large yellow sponges and then let the steamer do the work


I have used a steamer before and to me, it's way more effort, but if it works for you, go for it. I like to work efficiently and with as little effort as possible, old age will do that.:blink:


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## Always Learning (Mar 24, 2012)

And be careful if you have thin base.....too much water running down the walls during the wetting process, and I have seen it cause the base to warp upon drying, causing the top of the base to pull away from the wall as much as 1/4-3/8".

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.


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## toomuch (Jan 28, 2010)

I wanted to update this thread. We ended up using the Safe and Simple solution, a steamer and have gotten fantastic results. I should have added when I originally posted these were all plastered walls.

Perhaps I haven't been lucky enough, but what I am left with is a plaster wall that hasn't been previously painted and is almost in pristine condition. Having only dealt with plaster that's had multiple layers of paint, the surface I am left with is high sheen, almost glossy and unpainted. 

Do I need to lightly pole sand these walls or will the Gardz be able to be applied directly without any kind of prep. Just never seen plaster walls in their virgin state like this.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

If it had paper one it, then you can go directly to Gardz, although it certainly would not hurt to run a pole sander over it with some 100 grit.


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## amrath (May 5, 2016)

Just stir 1 cap-full liquid softener into 1 quart (1 liter) water and sponge the solution onto the wallpaper. Let it soak in for 20 minutes, then scrape the paper from the wall. If the wallpaper has a water-resistant coating, score it with a wire-bristle brush before treating with the fabric softener solution.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

amrath said:


> Just stir 1 cap-full liquid softener into 1 quart (1 liter) water and sponge the solution onto the wallpaper. Let it soak in for 20 minutes, then scrape the paper from the wall. If the wallpaper has a water-resistant coating, score it with a wire-bristle brush before treating with the fabric softener solution.


Which makes it smell good( which is questionable) and nothing more.


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