# Best Primers for Skim coated walls?



## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

Hey guys, I searched the forum and could not find the answer to my question, what primer are you guys using for skim coated walls?

From what i understand the best option is a high build primer.

Does anyone have a favorite choice from BM or California paints?

thanx for your help and sorry if this question has been answered before.


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## urbanstain (Oct 22, 2008)

is it a calcoat (plaster) or mud?


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

BM super hide undercoater is what I use on new drywall or walls that have been skim coated. never had any issues

Pat


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## urbanstain (Oct 22, 2008)

i use usg first coat high build on new dry wall when the dry wall job isint good other wise im che i like cbh from sw


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Ever use PPG 6-2?


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)




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## Masterpainter (Aug 14, 2010)

I have used gardz as well. When dealing with the high absorption of the mud the gardz will give you a surface that will not make your paint flash dry on you. The only problem with using a super hide is it is not the greatest sealer, it has clay in it, which will continue to wick the moisture out of each additional layer of paint you add and decrease wet time and possibly frustrate you on coverage issues.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

They hired someone to do the skim coat job. from the left over 5gal buckets i saw outside they used mud. The walls and ceiling have all been skim coated. thank you all for the advice.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

PatsPainting said:


> BM super hide undercoater is what I use on new drywall or walls that have been skim coated. never had any issues
> 
> Pat


is this the Benjamin Moore product you use?

Moorcraft Super Hide® Latex Primer/Undercoater 284


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Zinsser Gardz or Zinsser Drywall Primer... high build wouldnt even be an option for me.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> Zinsser Gardz or Zinsser Drywall Primer... high build wouldnt even be an option for me.


Hey I'm curious to know what you would use. thanx in advance

ohh i Miss read your comment. lol 

I might go with the benjamin moore or zinsser option.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Gotdibz said:


> is this the Benjamin Moore product you use?
> 
> Moorcraft Super Hide® Latex Primer/Undercoater 284



Yep, that's it


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

S.W. Prep200


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

BM 253 primer or PPG 6-2. Fresh Start if you have some money to burn


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> BM 253 primer or PPG 6-2. Fresh Start if you have some money to burn


yup


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> BM 253 primer or PPG 6-2. Fresh Start if you have some money to burn


I have used BM 253 primer on walls before and it goes on nice and think with good coverage.

I like fresh start and use it all the time, but i don't like it on new dry wall it goes on to thin and seems like it always needs a second coat. 

thanx to everyone for the input.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Gotdibz said:


> I have used BM 253 primer on walls before and it goes on nice and think with good coverage.
> 
> I like fresh start and use it all the time, but i don't like it on new dry wall it goes on to thin and seems like it always needs a second coat.
> 
> thanx to everyone for the input.


No thats what you want... you are sealing that mud... the thinner the better in most cases. You want the product to penetrate. Gardz is darn near like water. Many drywall specific primers are thin for a reason. They're first job is to seal.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


>


This is all you need:yes:


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> No thats what you want... you are sealing that mud... the thinner the better in most cases. You want the product to penetrate. Gardz is darn near like water. Many drywall specific primers are thin for a reason. They're first job is to seal.


Cool thanx for the info, that is true Fresh Start always penetrates the surface nicely. The reason i wanted a different primer was to Hide imperfections better I guess. I will consider my options and see what I end up using on the ceiling and walls.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I think JP is assuming that its a top notch skim job. My guess from your original question is that its not a great job and needs help from a heavier coating. No amount of paint can fix a Shotty drywall job...it can help make it less noticeable, but it will still be there.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> I think JP is assuming that its a top notch skim job. My guess from your original question is that its not a great job and needs help from a heavier coating. No amount of paint can fix a Shorty drywall job...it can help make it less noticeable, but it will still be there.


the skim job Is not bad, The house is Old and the walls are originally plastered, I was called after all the work was done. It doesn't look bad , but i just wanted to play it safe. I will see once I make a full inspection of the walls and ceilings.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

This is Zinsser Gardz applied to (only) the horizontal drywall mud joint on bare drywall and one coat of low sheen eggshell paint over all of it. Gardz sealed the joint very good obviously. 



Below is one coat of flat paint over bare drywall which also reflects what it would typically look like with a wall primer over bare drywall.



Photo below is One coat of eggshell paint over new drywall that was sealed with Zinsser Gardz


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> I think JP is assuming that its a top notch skim job. My guess from your original question is that its not a great job and needs help from a heavier coating. No amount of paint can fix a Shotty drywall job...it can help make it less noticeable, but it will still be there.


True but you need 2 separate products to achieve that effectively. Unless you know of a product that can seal like Gardz and hide like a 28 wet mil film?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Gotdibz said:


> the skim job Is not bad, The house is Old and the walls are originally plastered, I was called after all the work was done. It doesn't look bad , but i just wanted to play it safe. I will see once I make a full inspection of the walls and ceilings.


I had a long talk with an old schooler today about this type of thing and it was recently discussed here on PT too about whos job is it in a case like yours to make the walls right. I assumed when you said skim coat that we are talking level 5 or an attempt at it. Thats typically why walls get skim coated entirely. 

It would be your job to inspect the walls and point out any additional work that might need done. A light can be used to inspect the walls. If after you point out some additional drywall work might need done and they dont want to call the drywall guys back then you can discuss options that you could do but I would make those fixes prior to priming with whatever you decide on.

It can easily take longer to prep a wall then it does to paint it and its even more work if you miss it the first time around.

Its just my opinion but I think a product like Gardz does exactly what new mud and board needs vs using primers. If primers worked like Gardz then we wouldnt be discussing this.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> I had a long talk with an old schooler today about this type of thing and it was recently discussed here on PT too about whos job is it in a case like yours to make the walls right. I assumed when you said skim coat that we are talking level 5 or an attempt at it. Thats typically why walls get skim coated entirely.
> 
> It would be your job to inspect the walls and point out any additional work that might need done. A light can be used to inspect the walls. If after you point out some additional drywall work might need done and they dont want to call the drywall guys back then you can discuss options that you could do but I would make those fixes prior to priming with whatever you decide on.
> 
> ...


Yes I always use a work light at different angles to see everything thats going on, including nail pops, bad patch jobs, ect. I have never used Gardz and i will definitely give it a try if i can get it around here. Thanx for the advice, I will have a talk with the home owners.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> True but you need 2 separate products to achieve that effectively. Unless you know of a product that can seal like Gardz and hide like a 28 wet mil film?


2 different products if you are going with a sheen, sure. Flat, prime and paint...depends on who's flat, and the line its in too. Just making a broad generalization 

I thought there was a post about some new SW product that applied at high mils, but the spread rate was lousy, and it was expensive.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

Then again, we could talk about drywall mud not being paint, and paint not being drywall mud.

Mud will not give you a "flat" look, and paint will NOT flatten drywall joints.

SO,, IF we prime and back-roll, then sand, the problem goes away,,,,


Disclaimer: this post assumes an acceptable drywall job,,, cause crappy drywall needs more mud, not paint (even Zinnser)


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