# Epoxy floor coating help question.



## sickytwisted (Jul 21, 2009)

So, recently I posted a thread in which I admitted that I did not do a good job painting some exterior concrete stairs . The picture that I am including is one of the finished product 3 months and one rain session after. In prepping the stairs, I stripped them down with a heat gun, used kilz oil based primer and painted them with behr premium plus. YES I KNOW THAT I SHOULD NOT HAVE DONE THAT! I would now like to cover them with a two part epoxy coating mainly because of how durable that stuff is. My question is this; what should i do in preperation for the epoxy coating(as far as either stripping the stairs down to concrete again, scuff them or what?) Please post suggestions in detail if possible. Also, is there a certain product (including primer if you think its necessary) that you would recommend and can you provide me the info. The house is near the beach here in southern California so moisture is always an issue. Thanks and please stop making fun of my fu#% up! HA HA! Thank you all.


----------



## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

Im confused. Why did you start a new thread? Did you not like the answers in the other thread?

:help:


----------



## sickytwisted (Jul 21, 2009)

*No. I liked the answers*

I just want to know how to go about applying an epoxy coating instead. Which is what this thread is about. :thumbup:


----------



## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

remove previous coating completely from the concrete. acid etch prep. apply epoxy floor coating. 

I think its a little overkill at this stage. i would scrape off the crap finish, wire brush/clean/etc and apply a floor and porch paint and wash your hands of it


----------



## sickytwisted (Jul 21, 2009)

What brand/product would you suggest? do you suppose that would hold well being that the finish coat which I applied has already deviated? What etching product do you suggest in the case of the epoxy coat which I too think is a bit of overkill?


----------



## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I wouldn't use an epoxy outside, it wont hold up well. A good exterior porch and floor product should work well. You could do an epoxy sealer, ( something that is moisture tolerant ) then finish with the floor paint.


----------



## AmericanPatch&Paint (Dec 5, 2009)

Sticky,
soak, powerwash, etch concrete, then apply UGL E-1, it's a 1 part epoxy, this stuff holds up great in/outsiside! (stay away from Behr!) http://www.ugl.com/newProducts/e1.php UGL E-1
http://www.myspace.com/americanpatchandpaint Myspace Video/pix


----------



## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

AmericanPatch, welcome to the forum, feel free to post an intro here.
I was looking at your site, like to hear about your Digital Color Analysis.


----------



## AmericanPatch&Paint (Dec 5, 2009)

I can't even describe how much people like to see the colors on the project before we even start it, save me time saves the customer worry!:thumbsup:


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I have never used that UGL product before. This is a good exterior floor coating I have used in the past.
Water Base Acrylic floor coating for all porous exterior/interior floor surfaces.
.
Check the PDS, Also read this, the preparation and testing procedures are the same across the board. However, I disagree with giving a concrete substrate a chemical bath (etching). I would rather see a sand/grind preparation instead. When ever you use chemical, you are taking the chance of leaving residue behind, sense it's nearly imposable to determine if you got it all removed. I feel more comfortable not using a chemical at all. If no etching is desired, then a power wash would be fine as long as you let it dry out, do a moisture test as described in the instructions. That should be done any way prior to applying the coating.


----------



## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

I would definitely remove the Behr first. I don't do a lot of concrete, but i've used General Paint Porch and Floor Enamel on each and every concrete job i've done, and never had a call back about it. Good, tough stuff.


----------



## Outback Painting (Nov 21, 2009)

I would scrape/power sand off the loose stuff. Then give it two coats of Sherwin-Williams ArmorSeal. Its a super tough concrete coating.


----------



## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

When and if you apply an epoxy I would broadcast a grit so the people don't go down the stairs and fall on their a$$es when it is wet. Then you will have a whole lot of other problems on your hands


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Unless it's your mother inlaw. LMAO
Sorry 
.
You can put some shark grip.


----------



## oldskool (Nov 17, 2009)

Remove the failing coating, it may continue to fail and why take the risk.

After that etch, Mason Select Safe Solution is a great safe etcher. Then, prime with seal krete lockdown, then a standard porch and deck, add walnut shells for non slip.

Or after lock down primer use seal krete, floor tex.(texturized coating)

Or after etch you could use a one part epoxy like finish, Mason Select makes a good solid body concrete staind that will stick like glue and wears very well.

Two part epoxy is overkill in this situation, but if the customer demands it use Devoe DC 379 devthane which is an aliphatic urethane. Add non skid as necessary.

many ways to do this, most depend on $$$$$$


----------



## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TWO PART EPOXIES WILL DETERIORATE DUE TO U.V. EXPOSURE! A single component epoxy will be fine for an exterior job, or a urethane fortified acrylic.


----------



## BehrPro Support (Oct 1, 2009)

sickytwisted, 

It sounds like the problem you are experiencing is with the concrete. Moisture transmission is causing the blisters. We do not have a product to solve your problem, but there are coatings that stop moisture transmission and address hydrostatic pressure. 

You do not want to use an oil-based product on concrete. Water-based primers perform better. And the two-part epoxy coating should be used for interior only. It needs to be breathable. 

If you would like, I can connect you with your local field sales representative. Please let me know. Or you can call Technical Service at 1-800-851-0133, extension 2.


----------



## ColorScapes Painting (Nov 5, 2009)

*Remove existing coating*

Remove the existing coating with REZ Deck/Coating Stripper or other
sodium hydroxide solution. Powerwash clean. Acid etch and profile the concrete. Avoid using oil based or epoxy as they will chalk and embrittle in U.V. Pick a nice acrylic latex texture coating like StoneEffects or H&C
Concrete Stains/Textures. You will get 3-5 yrs good use and have to do over as you must remember concrete is basically a wicking sponge of salts, gypsum and lye and will pick up ground moisture (hydrostatic wicking) and drop moisture based on ambient conditions. I worked as an industrial
coatings rep for 12 years for ICI and Sherwin and am a certified industrial coatings consultant as well as PDCA certified coatings consultant. I now run a successful coatings and painting company in Canada and we deal with all kinds of problem surfaces. Concrete needs to be profiled for peak count similar to steel so it can hold a coating in the microvalleys created by etching/scarifying/profiling. If you do not etch, it will fail quickly and you will be redoing it over and over. Thick film systems in warehouse floors always get blastracked or scarified to remove and profile to depths as much as 80 mils !!! But avoid epoxy as it will chalk, avoid oil based as it will saponify as the linseed oil will negatively react with the salts and alkalinity in the concrete. Acrylic latex will stick/adhere nicely as long as it is acid etched - but i personally would go to a texture coating like Rustoleum Stone Effects or other as it will provide anti-slip qualities and prevent bad falls or slip accidents.


----------

