# priming drywall repairs



## amydlarz (Jul 27, 2009)

In the past i covered holes and wall imperfections with joint compound,let dry and then spot primed with zinsser bullseye. Then i painted over with two coats of finish paint and the spot primed patches all showed through necessitating my having to recoat another two or three times to cover. Ever since i've just primed the whole wall and can cover with two coats of finish paint . Is there a way to just spot prime without having to cover the whole wall with primer ? I was thinking of maybe experimenting with gardz since it doesnt have any white pigment to show through , or am i on the wrong track ? Anthony Mydlarz --Anthony's Painting


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

yah. use Aura. Spot prime the patch with aura then paint the whole wall. looks good every time, even with dark colors.


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

I asked a guy who works for Tor Coatings who (are part of /or deal with Zinsser in the UK). Here is his reply to me after having the same situation as you.

"I have managed to get information regarding the problem you have experienced with this product.
The 1-2-3 primer will have sealed the plaster and the absorbancy of the ceiling will be different to the unprimed areas.
This can result in a different appearance when overcoated with certain types of trade matt emulsions.
We do recommend applying a full coat of the 1-2-3 rather than spot priming in these situations, (see attached tech data sheet under ‘Application’).
Additional coats of the matt will reduce the variation you have noticed. 

Kind Regards,
*Mike Bennett*(Product advisor)"

I knew that was the answer I'd get back but was hoping for a better fix.
Gardz will give you the very same result if you just spot in.

Spot it in with a thin coat of your latex/emulsion/acrylic whatever it is you chaps call it  wall colour


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## concrete effects (Jul 27, 2009)

The paint & sheen have alot to do with it, higher the sheen more flash. We use 20 min. compound and spot prime with either BIN or High hide (areosol spray) and use Ben more flat or matte... never had a issue.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I use PVA primers. On the rentals I used to paint, that was way out of scope and you just used paint, no prime. They didn't want to pay for it, and I didn't want to work for free... no issues.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

idk, i've had good results using promar 200, just plain ol 2 coats over 20 mud patches and it works good. the thing with bullseye is that it has a sheen to it. if you use bullseye, i would sand it after drying to dull it down some, or like it was already mentioned use a nonsheen primer


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

tsunamicontract said:


> yah. use Aura. Spot prime the patch with aura then paint the whole wall. looks good every time, even with dark colors.


Thats the way to do it. Use a 3/4" nap roller and whack the spots with primer ( unless you use AURA ) then hit the spots with a coat or 2 of paint BEFORE you paint the walls. This helps to build stipple ( orange peel ) on the smooth areas helping them to blend and not flash. :thumbup:


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Thats the way to do it. Use a 3/4" nap roller and whack the spots with primer ( unless you use AURA ) then hit the spots with a coat or 2 of paint BEFORE you paint the walls. This helps to build stipple ( orange peel ) on the smooth areas helping them to blend and not flash. :thumbup:


yup, but with Aura I just do one coat spot prime, finish coat, not problem. Just am extra careful tipping off on the finish coat to leave a nice stipple. (Stipple is totally different than orange peel). No flash, the only way you can tell the patch was there is if you run your hand from a non-patched area to a patched area you can feel the slight difference in texture.


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I have had the same trouble with 123. From my research 123 is to good of a primer to spot prime. The area you spot prime will be substantially sealed more than the other areas thereby leaving a drastically different finish. I have found no matter how many times you coat and even reprime + sanding 123 is like fortknocks.. I have learned my lesson from using 123 as spot prime and having to prime the entire area just to get a good finish.. 
Now for small patches I use a run of the mill primer nothing to good It does its job and I get no flashing ( I believe that's what they call it out here in PT)


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

I Agree Even Pro Mar 200 Over Patch And Another Will Sometimes Do The Trick You Might Have To Be Alittle More Carful To Match Upw/ Stipple


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

Been Goofin W/ This In Similar Situations Where Primed Areas Were Really Flashing On White Or Lighter Colored Walls Not A Huge Deal ,nothing More Than Rolling Another Coat Over It,but Im Always Lokking At Ways To Save Alittle Time .


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

It always seems that when a wall has various finishes on it, the overcoat will appear inconsistent.

One reason many paper hangers do not like 1-2-3 (which is what I assume you mean by "Bullseye" and not the original "Bullseye" product - B.I.N.) is that they say it is too slick. That "slickness" (no relation to our Cape Cod friend) when spot primed on something like a flat, will cause flashing, as will Gardz or even B.I.N.

Granted I am not knowledgeable with the most modern coatings, but it has always been true that the wall has to be of a consistent finish for the new overcoat to appear even and consistent. I can not remember that we ever spot primed and then overcoated. Heck, I can't remember off hand only giving one coat on any wall, and your issue is just one reason why.


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