# Tape and caulk new cabinets?



## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

To the ceiling and walls?
I normally would. But not on this job. They don't want it.
ok by me I guess.

..and my question would be, do you typically caulk new cabinets?

(I mean if they're already installed before you get there)


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I caulk them if I'm asked to or if the gap varies from top to bottom but usually no. I guess it depends if the cabinets are painted or stained, cause I'm more likely to caulk the painted ones. Do you caulk the back splash? I always do.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

These are stained. Different size gaps all over the place. Lots of rag-work.
I like to tape and caulk the backsplashes too, but they don't want that either.
(so I'll clear-silicone it for them)

I guess they're anti-caulk people.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Use SW SherMax in clear. Let it dry 24 hrs. and tomorrow you can even free hand or use Frog Tape delicate and get some really nice sharp lines.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

I caulk the crown to the ceiling but never down the sides of the cabinets unless asked to or the gap is crazy with uneven drywall in that case ill straighten out the drywall then possibly caulk... All depends .... Always caulk the backsplash


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

Steve Richards said:


> These are stained. Different size gaps all over the place. Lots of rag-work.
> I like to tape and caulk the backsplashes too, but they don't want that either.
> (so I'll clear-silicone it for them)
> 
> I guess they're anti-caulk people.


Weird gaps all over?... I'd calk in that case


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Ole34 said:


> Weird gaps all over?... I'd calk in that case


I would too, ole.
Some gaps are 1/4" or better..so no problem there, then some are 0"...that'll suck. (major color change too)

I might try ReNt's method.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

PDCA standards say only caulk between surfaces you're painting. It's a good way to get out of some caulking anyways. 
If I'm caulking next to stained wood I'll use the closest color caulk as the wood. Usually between brown, dark brown, cedar and almond something works well. It's really the easiest way to go when painting next to stained base & case as if you tape leaving a hair of the case showing and caulk over that, when you paint and pull your tape there's only perfect lines, none of that annoying bridging where the paint partially fills the gap. 
Sometimes I don't bother with caulking next to stained trim, especially if its tight to the wall.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Steve Richards said:


> To the ceiling and walls?
> I normally would. But not on this job. They don't want it.
> ok by me I guess.
> 
> ...


There should be no need if they've been properly scribed to the walls.


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## ltd (Nov 18, 2010)

stained cabinets I never caulk . I think it looks better to just have a shadow .back splashes looks better with no caulk imo but ill ask ho if they want it and they most always do. never silicone caulk  imo.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Ole34 said:


> Weird gaps all over?... I'd calk in that case


Caulk in that case or case of caulk?:whistling2:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Now I'm torn between clear caulk, brown caulk, and no caulk. Dammit people!


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> Now I'm torn between clear caulk, brown caulk, and no caulk. Dammit people!


Life is hell, ain't it? :jester:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

It just goes to show, _there's more than one way to skin a cat_.

(I'm pretty sure chrisn's done that before. chrisn is no cat lover.)


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> It just goes to show, _there's more than one way to skin a cat_.
> 
> (I'm pretty sure chrisn's done that before. chrisn is no cat lover.)


Seen on a bumper sticker, "Cats........Nature's little speed bumps."


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> Now I'm torn between clear caulk, brown caulk, and no caulk. Dammit people!


The thing with clear is a lot of them have longer repaint times than colored caulks. I like sw powerhouse 60 year as its typically a 2 hour recoat. 
No-caulk is fine but if you tape you may have bridging, you know all that.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Damon T said:


> The thing with clear is a lot of them have longer repaint times than colored caulks. I like sw powerhouse 60 year as its typically a 2 hour recoat.
> No-caulk is fine but if you tape you may have bridging, you know all that.


Worst product ever, that stuff has a lot air inside the tubes.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Damon T said:


> The thing with clear is a lot of them have longer repaint times than colored caulks. I like sw powerhouse 60 year as its typically a 2 hour recoat.
> No-caulk is fine but if you tape you may have bridging, you know all that.


I tried to explain "bridging" to the lady.
From the look on her face, I don't think she understood.

I'll be trying all 3 methods, and will let you know who goes to the top of the MHTSR (Most Helpful to Steve Richards) list.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

This might also be a good time for the rest of you to ask yourselves: "What have I done for Steve Richards lately?"


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Caulk them with clear and don't look back.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Why would you want the caulk color in between the wall color and the cabinets. :blink:

You could tint your caulk with the wall color but the thing to do it is like $150 and only works with red devil caulk.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I like this stuff for running a finish bead of caulk;
http://www.sashco.com/hi/exactcolor.html


Mix a little of the wall color in and you've got custom color caulk. A lot of times for me it's easier to get a crisp line with a bead than by cutting in. 
I just used it the other day to seam a natural pine ceiling to the walls.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Why would you want the caulk color in between the wall color and the cabinets. :blink:
> 
> You could tint your caulk with the wall color but the thing to do it is like $150 and only works with red devil caulk.


 
I have one of those mixers. They are stupid expensive for what they are. 

This new stuff in previous post requires no special tools. The caulk comes liquid, you add the paint and a hardener, shake it up and it's done. I don't like it quite as well as the Red Devil, but it easier to mix.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> This might also be a good time for the rest of you to ask yourselves: "What have I done for Steve Richards lately?"


Damn! Now I feel awful. I have a real hangdog look now, Steve. If I could post a pic, I'd show you.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

ReNt,
I wouldn't tint the caulk to the wall color. That would be the same as painting over the sliver of caulk that would remain on the edges anyhow.
That (narrow, strait line of) wall color down the cabinets (to ME) looks nice. But wtf do I know.

I do know that this lady don't think it looks nice. 

_T&M can be your friend_ ~ SR


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

There is a cheaper plastic tool to mix the red devil stuff. 

Secret: it works with a good quality clear caulk as well, not just the Red Devil poor quality caulk.


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## 1963 Sovereign (Dec 14, 2011)

DeanV said:


> There is a cheaper plastic tool to mix the red devil stuff.
> 
> Secret: it works with a good quality clear caulk as well, not just the Red Devil poor quality caulk.


 I have that same tool,works great long as you clean it well.
and I use anybody's clear caulk also..great


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Steve Richards said:


> This might also be a good time for the rest of you to ask yourselves: "What have I done for Steve Richards lately?"


Quit talking and start caulking!:yes:


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## mattjaworski (Oct 20, 2013)

The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil. Slice 45-degree slivers off the tip with a razor until you see the hole open.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

mattjaworski said:


> The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil. Slice 45-degree slivers off the tip with a razor until you see the hole open.


Not really


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I usually cut mine a little bigger than that.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

My dad (who hated painting, and only taught me how so he would no longer have to)... used to cut the spouts about 1/2 way up, and squared off.

He was a sloppy caulker.:thumbsup:


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

mattjaworski said:


> The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil. Slice 45-degree slivers off the tip with a razor until you see the hole open.


Ohh shìt!!! We have been doing it all wrong.


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

mattjaworski said:


> The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil. Slice 45-degree slivers off the tip with a razor until you see the hole open.


I like it open at least the size of the piercing rod. I further tweak the size using speed and trigger control. 45 degree angle is ok.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Steve Richards said:


> It just goes to show, _there's more than one way to skin a cat_.
> 
> (I'm pretty sure chrisn's done that before. chrisn is no cat lover.)


 
actually I have always had a cat or 2,3 around, just not at the moment and no I have never skinned or eaten one( I don't eat Chinese)


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

In conclusion..I used both.
This cabinet had drywall mud down onto it from a ceiling repair..cleaned it up and brown-caulked the top. Clear caulk down the sides, and then free handed.

In the future I'll continue to push for the sliver of wall/ceiling paint on the cabinets, as tape and caulk (to me) is a way to keep from free-handing and being able to cruise on the cut ins.
Thanks guys

No, I didn't change the cabinet color. Left was pre-dawn, right was afternoon.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Your welcome. Looks good. :clap:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks ReNt. I owe 1/2 of it to you.

3 colors/tubes of caulk going on the same little job was a 1st for me.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Steve Richards said:


> Thanks ReNt. I owe 1/2 of it to you.
> 
> 3 colors/tubes of caulk going on the same little job was a 1st for me.


Please make check payable to RENT A PAINTER.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Please make check payable to RENT A PAINTER.


I prefer to give you one of these (cuz they don't cost me anything).
I owe Damon one too.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Good one. So, can we see more pictures of the whole job??


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Sure, ReNt.
I didn't take a lot of pictures (I never do).

Here's that same cabinet..from the other side of the room, and another w/brown caulk at the top and clear down the sides.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Steve Richards said:


> Sure, ReNt.
> I didn't take a lot of pictures (I never do).
> 
> Here's that same cabinet..from the other side of the room, and another w/brown caulk at the top and clear down the sides.


I gotta say that looks really good for a no-ass hack. You been shucking and jiving us all this time? :jester:


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

slinger58 said:


> I gotta say that looks really good for a no-ass hack. You been shucking and jiving us all this time? :jester:


He is a hack. Didn't you notice how he patched the cabinet door with a little square of cardboard.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

No kidding. And in that first pic you can catch a glimpse of his super-modified walker. Probably been on that job for 6 weeks, drawing unemployment and doing other nefarious things! Mums the word.:jester:


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Caulk them with clear and don't look back.


what's the point.?:blink:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

slinger58 said:


> I gotta say that looks really good for a no-ass hack. You been shucking and jiving us all this time? :jester:


A true professional would have pulled those cabinets, painted, and then rehung them.



ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> He is a hack. Didn't you notice how he patched the cabinet door with a little square of cardboard.


They were out of town (that's why I was able to start before sunup), and I think she left that there on purpose, so I didn't forget what she picked, and use the wrong color.




finishesbykevyn said:


> what's the point.?:blink:


It was a major color change, with the old color visible behind the cabinets (in the gaps). I was concerned any gaps too narrow for a paint-brush-bristle, would leave paint on the inside edge of the wood ("bridging").

The (very few:whistling2 places I did touch the clear caulking w/paint, were easily fixed with a few cuss words and a rag.


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

We don't really caulk new cabinets, because there is no need for it,but if you're asked to, go ahead and caulk.


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