# Sherwin williams pro industrial alkyd urethane vs emerald urethane for cabinetry



## Jordanco (Jul 21, 2020)

I have a cabinet job for a customer, I’ve been using Emerald urethane with great results. The only complaint I have is that it’s $57/gal including my discount, which obviously adds up. Just curious if the Pro industrial Alkyd urethane is comparable to the emerald urethane? It’s a little more cost effective and if I can get similar results, I’d like to experiment with it. I am not trying to skimp on the prep work. I always sand, clean them, and use synthetic shellac based primer. With the proper prep work, what are your thoughts on achieving a durable finish for cabinetry?


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## Jordanco (Jul 21, 2020)

Also I’d like to specify that I’m asking about the water based pro industrial primer. Thanks for any help in advance


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Emerald covers much better as it has the hi hide tint base. Stuff sprays really nice


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I've used both and do not recommend the Pro Industrial. It sprays like a dream, yes. But it's near impossible to touch up with a brush because of its viscosity. It's very thin compared to the Emerald. And because such, it does require more coats to achieve a smooth finish on imperfect substrates. No build. No hide.

I think SW can do a lot better on that price. I get it for less than $50. Not still, it is pricey.

For primer, shallac is great for hide and blocking, not the best for adhesion. Nothing beats oil for build, hide and adhesion. But let's be honest. Who likes using oil? For the best second place primer I like the wall and wood primer. Lots of build, great adhesion, mediocre on hide. Not good for tannin bleed. But 2 coats of Emerald Urethane will mostly block it. For perfection, I spot prime with pro block oil in a rattle can. 

Hope that helps. 

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## WestKyPainter (Nov 7, 2018)

Just use Pro Classic...It is a proven solution.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

The finish material is the least expensive portion of any cabinet job. I would go with the PI AU. It has a much faster cure and is ultra hard, 6H when cured. EU sucks and is not a cabinet finish.


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## firstchoice01 (Mar 9, 2020)

I'm also a big fan of PI Urethane water based Alkyld or whatever the long phrase is. Ordered 5 gallons 10 minutes ago for some doors, pantry and trim. I used to use the ProClassic. Swore by it for years on cabs and trims but OMG that stuff smells strong.
The other commenters mentioned that touch up is rough when it comes to using a brush with PI--that's true. What I suggest is doing more thin coats. When I'm working with a customer I tell them it might take more coats, more time that means more money. Reasonable people go for that. If they don't move on quickly. One of the dudes around here has a quote 'I never lost money on the jobs I didn't take' and that's correct.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Practically speaking, the average cabinet job usually requires no more than 3 gallons of top-coat. Let's say you're able to get that Pro Industrial for $15-$20/gallon cheaper than the Emerald...so that's a net savings of around $50?

Cabinetry is extremely labor intensive. If I were you, I'd stick with whatever product you've had proven and consistent results with. Consider adding $50 to your initial bid to cover the cost. I can't imagine losing many cabinet jobs over a $50 difference in price.

If you were doing walls & ceilings or asking about which primer or PVA you could substitute on a big job, I could totally understand wanting to be mindful of not overspending on product, but not on projects where the total cost of materials might be 5% of the contract price. JMHO.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Practically speaking, the average cabinet job usually requires no more than 3 gallons of top-coat. Let's say you're able to get that Pro Industrial for $15-$20/gallon cheaper than the Emerald...so that's a net savings of around $50?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's how I look at it. When it comes to cabinets as long as the product does what I need it to I don't care how much it costs. 

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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Rbriggs82 said:


> That's how I look at it. When it comes to cabinets as long as the product does what I need it to I don't care how much it costs.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk


Yep. I used to do the same thing though, and for far too long, (slow learner, lol). One of my worst decisions was to not use the best exterior trim paint available. Didn't really think about the fact that I'd only use 3 gallons on the average exterior, and sometimes the difference between a decent paint vs. great paint is 2 coats vs. 3. Probably ended up costing me over 100k in labor to save a few hundred in materials.


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## davidch14 (Sep 9, 2018)

i have used both of these and they are very similar. either always looks great, levels smooth and hard. only issue i have is getting a smooth "advance like" silky feel. it always has a very slight chaulkiness to it. i have similar issue with PC.


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## Jordanco (Jul 21, 2020)

Thanks for all of the feedback! I have used emerald Urethane in the past and will continue to from here on out. I’ve followed all of the recommended prep and guidelines in regards to the PI AU and it is just not as hard as I would like. It feels a little sticky, which I’m not a fan of. I typically stick to one routine and go with it, just wanted to get my feelers out there for different product. I don’t know if the color (tricorn black) could have something to do with this or not.. I would’ve given a lot of the advice in the thread had I been the one responding, but wanted to make sure I was on the “right” track. 

In response to the $50 savings comment, I totally agree. But also understand that this does come into play more so on bigger jobs- and $50 is $50 at the end of the day. If the product is dang near the same, might as well profit as much as possible if I can. 🤷🏻*♀


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