# Basement block



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I've got a glory job next week- painting up an old basement. Wondering out loud here why wouldn't Gardz ( or Peel Stop- might be better for low odor) just do a swell job sealing up raw block? Great penetration, might actually be easier to do that some block fillers. 
This is a clean up to sell deal, not going to use the oil fillers - 
Opinions?


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

BrushJockey said:


> I've got a glory job next week- painting up an old basement. Wondering out loud here why wouldn't Gardz ( or Peel Stop- might be better for low odor) just do a swell job sealing up raw block? Great penetration, might actually be easier to do that some block fillers.
> This is a clean up to sell deal, not going to use the oil fillers -
> Opinions?


The only way to do unfinished block is to blockfill. If you dont put a heavey duty blockfiller on it always looks like crap. Loxon or permacrete would be more worth using than gardz. A lot of painters here dont even use blockfiller which is a shock to me, but most here dont do bigger commercial jobs either.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

What I'm wondering is more that if I do a fairly quick coat of Peel Stop to seal it up, the filler might be easier and quicker to apply. 
This is not a hi test commercial job, it's a res basement clean up to sell. Probably using Zin WaterTite as the filler.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

BrushJockey said:


> What I'm wondering is more that if I do a fairly quick coat of Peel Stop to seal it up, the filler might be easier and quicker to apply.
> This is not a hi test commercial job, it's a res basement clean up to sell. Probably using Zin WaterTite as the filler.


Yea I get what you are saying. Loxon and permacrete are made to seal. They are in a guardz type form but also in a block filler form. I would use the block filler loxon or permacrete because it will help fill in the block much better. Loxon is from SW and pretty expensive in either form. Permacrete is sold by PPG and a lot cheaper. Both are fine products. We use them when a job is in a rush because you are suppose to let block sit 28 days before using regular block filler and painting. Both also come in handy on outside split face block to prevent mositure from becoming a problem.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Loxon is now relabeled on the shelves of SW. Says "Concrete Primer" or something like that. About 30ish bucks a gallon. Not bad price if you ask me. I wouldnt hesitate to using this before trying to re-invent the wheel. This kinda job is what its made for.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

oh, loxon is WB as well.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Block filler is a lot cheaper as well.
Penetration isn't your primary objective, filling the block is.


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## Mark22 (Feb 7, 2011)

Filling the block eliminates pinholes in the finish. A thin primer will not accomplish that.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i do a lot of these, and i use drylock.

why add an extra step? its a waste of time and money.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

raw surface= a primer + a topcoating material. Whats the extra step?


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i drylock and paint them.

theres all sorts of strange ways people do stuff.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

high fibre said:


> i drylok and paint them.
> 
> theres all sorts of strange ways people do stuff.


Hows the drylok worked for you? I've been wanting to use it. 
you say you paint over the drylock, Doesn't painting over it prevent it from breathing. I ask since its a breathable film.

Edit. I didnt know they had the new Drylok extreme, or the drylok powdered which can be used as a basecoat.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

BrushJockey said:


> I've got a glory job next week- painting up an old basement. Wondering out loud here why wouldn't Gardz ( or Peel Stop- might be better for low odor) just do a swell job sealing up raw block? Great penetration, might actually be easier to do that some block fillers.
> This is a clean up to sell deal, not going to use the oil fillers -
> Opinions?


Maybe try clear BIN?


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