# Peel Stop



## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We just bought our first gallon. Do we need to use a regular primer over this? We are using the clear version.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

The only time I applied white primer over a clear Peel Stop application was when I was going extreme color change and wanted a less costly white base coat.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

cdpainting said:


> We just bought our first gallon. Do we need to use a regular primer over this? We are using the clear version.



Peel stop is a bonding/bridging primer and doesn't have much hiding or blocking capabilities. If you're going over raw wood, it's best to prime after using peel stop. 

Since peel stop dries to a slight sheen, it's possible for them to flash through top-coat, depending upon the quality & sheen of topcoat you use. 

I've went back & forth with these kinds of products, since they add an extra step before priming, and there's little guarantee offered in the event they fail. Don't consider it a primer, just the step before priming IMO.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I've went back & forth with these kinds of products, since they add an extra step before priming, *and there's little guarantee offered in the event they fail. *Don't consider it a primer, just the step before priming IMO.


I've been thinking about this lately. What's does a Peel Stop, Peel Bond/Trim Magic failure look like?

Instead of cracking and flaking like paint, does it bubble up and then peel off in elastic sheets?

I know the days are coming when these applications become so old I will be coming across them on repaints, rather than simply applying them on repaints.

What does the reckoning look like?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I paint paint said:


> I've been thinking about this lately. What's does a Peel Stop, Peel Bond/Trim Magic failure look like?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Good question. Since most substrates requiring these products already posses signs of failure, it would be very difficult in the future to pin-down a precise cause for said failure. Therein lies the genius, (for the manufacturers). I liken it to big box elastomeric on troublesome decks.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Good question. Since most substrates requiring these products already posses signs of failure, it would be very difficult in the future to pin-down a precise cause for said failure. Therein lies the genius, (for the manufacturers). *I liken it to big box elastomeric on troublesome decks.*


Well then that would make me an idiot for using it so many times.

Run, CD, run. We have unwittingly found the Deckover of primers!


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I paint paint said:


> Well then that would make me an idiot for using it so many times.
> 
> 
> 
> Run, CD, run. We have unwittingly found the Deckover of primers!



Not saying they don't work, just can't prove they do. Nobody can. I used a similar product last year, so I'm every bit as guilty.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

The material that we use is United Bonding Primer, from United Coating.

http://www.quest-cp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/TD-UC-UBP_052214.pdf

We typically use it on areas prone to early paint failure: tops of deck posts, window sills, etc. One of the other painters in town use it on new red cedar shingles that were then painted white. I was surprised that there was no tannin bleedthrough.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Gough said:


> The material that we use is United Bonding Primer, from United Coating.
> 
> http://www.quest-cp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/TD-UC-UBP_052214.pdf
> 
> We typically use it on areas prone to early paint failure: tops of deck posts, window sills, etc. One of the other painters in town use it on new red cedar shingles that were then painted white. I was surprised that there was no tannin bleedthrough.


You use that one because you have used the others and it outperforms them by far?

Or just because it is as good and you have easy access to it?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

I paint paint said:


> You use that one because you have used the others and it outperforms them by far?
> 
> Or just because it is as good and you have easy access to it?


It has been available locally for longer than Peel Stop. I have used them both and get the impression that UBP works better. I have yet to do any test samples to compare the two directly.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Older home, some lead some wood from the 80's when remodeled. The newer part is peeling bad, we already scraped it and figured we would give peel stop a shot.

I haven't seen the can yet, Carly has it. How is it for Lead paint?

We used it on a door and some trim so far, (this is a trim only job) that were pretty much down to bare wood.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

They don't always have stain blocking either. So cedar bleed can be a problem. I have used peel bond and peel stop sometimes getting cedar bleed and sometimes not. Unless we use a stain blocking primer over it. Am leaning more towards just priming these days except on restoration type jobs in which case my preferred clear primer is Ppg permanizer plus. My preferred exterior stain blocking primer is currently Bm 046.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Damon T said:


> They don't always have stain blocking either. So cedar bleed can be a problem. I have used peel bond and peel stop sometimes getting cedar bleed and sometimes not. Unless we use a stain blocking primer over it. Am leaning more towards just priming these days except on restoration type jobs in which case my preferred clear primer is Ppg permanizer plus. My preferred exterior stain blocking primer is currently Bm 046.


Do you ever see United Bonding Primer over on the wet side?


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## Mike2coat (Nov 12, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Peel stop is a bonding/bridging primer and doesn't have much hiding or blocking capabilities. If you're going over raw wood, it's best to prime after using peel stop. Since peel stop dries to a slight sheen, it's possible for them to flash through top-coat, depending upon the quality & sheen of topcoat you use. I've went back & forth with these kinds of products, since they add an extra step before priming, and there's little guarantee offered in the event they fail. Don't consider it a primer, just the step before priming IMO.


Very true


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