# Rigging Work for Metal Roof



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

I originally posted this and got one very good suggestion. That is--stay away from work you can't handle. That is always good advice. What I need to know more specifically is whether it is worth my while to get the equipment I need to paint where metal roofs have been installed.

I'd really like suggestions for set-ups as explained in my original post displayed below. Thanks.

JTP 


Hello Out There in Painters World,

Would appreciate some ideas on how to stage scaffolding to bridge the newer type metal roofs seeming to be so popular here in the N/E. You can't plant your ladders anywhere. You can't level out the areas with shims because they slide. Pump jacks work in some areas, but you have to have some long planks, arm power and maybe a 4 or more for longer spans. Ideas and solutions are really appreciated. What are some rigging tricks of the trade even for repaints on second stories and above? Additionally, matching the ladder angle to the roof line works on some houses and areas and are useless due to accessibility issues on other areas.

Since I am a very small contractor with limited scaffold equipment equipment and one partner, we need some ideas in this area. 

For Instance: I have a 10 on 12 pitched roof with with gabels to re-paint. The roof is metal. Now what? We have stopped our outside work for this year and are concentrating on our inside work, but I'd like to get a leg up on next year. We have faced the scaffolding problems in an unsafe and unacceptable manner as far as I am concerned. We are taking way too many chances.

Thanks for your input.

JTP


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## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

I guess I don't quite understand the question. Are you painting the roof or just wondering about how to set up scaffolding for the siding? If you're painting gable ends it shouldn't matter what the roof pitch is. Shims sliding? Please explain.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Rent an articulating lift.


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

There are some very nice lifts out there now...
Bil-Jax makes a towable trailer into one for abt 35k.
The track layer spider lifts are awesome!
...NOT allowed to climb trees in europe so they got the best technology for the tree trimmers...
r


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## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Reply from JTP*

Thanks for your time and input thus far into the thread. I appreciate the fact that mechanical lifts--boom trucks with baskets-scissor devices, etc. can all be used for certain areas.

I live in a rural area. The one job I am particularly thinking about does not allow for the placement of any larger lifts. The front of the house is only about 15 feet away from the road and on an incline of about 10 percent or a little more. 

Assume this stock picture has a metal roof over the front porch and you need to paint the window and trim. Also assume, the house sits on the incline as I have described above and even if a lift on some sort could be used, it would have to be parked and used from the road the house sits on.

Here are my specific questions--not in order or priority:

1) How do you protect a metal roof from paint splatters and walk on it at the same time? Or do you folks use plastic to mask the roof first and bridge over the roof with rigging of some sort to get the work done?

2) How do you walk on a metal roof if you do not know how the roof was put on. Where is the underframing that is solid so that you can walk on the roof without denting and other damage?

3) I understand a level area can be gotten by using wedges and planks. First you have to be able to place these items without damage to the roof. How is this done?

4) Kneeling on scrap foam, if the angle and height is one option for work you can reach from the roof line. Using any type of ladder needs some very careful thought and placement. I need some ideas on that as well. For instance: how would you reach the peak safely from the porch roof? Again, I know the picture has a shingle roof, imagine it is a metal roof instead for my questions.

5) All ideas and suggestions, as always, are truly appreciated. I am trying to decide whether to bid jobs with metal roofs and these types of challenges or pass entirely. 

Note: It is important you read the description of the real house I am concerned with. I did not think to take a picture of it and post it here which would have made this much easier. So if you haven't read the brief description, please do. This house, as it sets, presents few scaffolding problems due to the regular shingle.

Thanks A lot,

JTP


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## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

JTP said:


> Thanks for your time and input thus far into the thread. I appreciate the fact that mechanical lifts--boom trucks with baskets-scissor devices, etc. can all be used for certain areas.
> 
> I live in a rural area. The one job I am particularly thinking about does not allow for the placement of any larger lifts. The front of the house is only about 15 feet away from the road and on an incline of about 10 percent or a little more.
> 
> ...


Assuming that the roof has sheathing under it (which I would think a house would, but I could be wrong) you could set up a Little Giant or small extension ladder for the peak. And to keep it from sliding, open the window and put a 2 x 4 across it on the inside and run a rope from it to the ladder. If the roof has no sheathing you could use some scraps of plywood about a foot square or so under the feet of the ladder to disperse the weight.


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

The description Stacy just gave is pretty much a classic OSHA would like to catch someone doing.
Yes, I've most likely done worse, but it's unwise to advise someone else to do so. Unless you can work safe, find another way to feed yourself and family.
Construction is hazardous enough without being creative!
r


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## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

Tmrrptr said:


> The description Stacy just gave is pretty much a classic OSHA would like to catch someone doing.
> Yes, I've most likely done worse, but it's unwise to advise someone else to do so. Unless you can work safe, find another way to feed yourself and family.
> Construction is hazardous enough without being creative!
> r


Good point.


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## Zip (Apr 18, 2007)

Traffic cones, offer to pay policman for off-duty traffic control. Set bucket apx 3' from window , step out, hold onto or back upto the bucket and "knock it out". Saftey fall gear should be required. Btw, it's trim so to not drop paint, stop shaking and watch what your're doing.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

Im not sure I follow 100%. But for the peak(triangle part), I would think a 40' ladder stretched all the way out would be able to get up their and clear the rough, have some one footing it. 

As far as the level part directly above the rough( PAINTING THE SOFFIT), I would run a ladder on the rough all the way to the ground, so the ladder is actuall on the rough laying flat with the end butted right up to the brick under the facial, and is extended all the way to the ground, wlk up and paint it, make sure some one is footing the ladder, and you gonna have be carefull of the metal rough it is fragile. I have done this in similar conditions, when the metal rought was a aunning instead, it is a major pita. 

thanks
dave mac


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

JT 

are you doing standing seam style roofs or corrugated metal?


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## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

JT 

are you doing standing seam style roofs or corrugated metal?


Scott,

I am doing standing seam style. Corrugated is less of a problem. I’m talking the new metal roofing. I can’t figure out a good way, short of a genie with a jib, to get at what needs painting. Although this picture is not the house I am discussing, it has similarities to the problem. Instead of a shingle roof like this one, it is a metal one on both roofs. Have any ideas of how to get to the peak and window. Can’t stand or ladder anything on the lower porch roof. It would scuff the new roof. Can’t put drops down, you’ll slide off, can’t use ladder brackets, there are no shingles to get under and nail them to. If the roof under layment isn’t sturdy, you’ll dent the metal roof by just standing on it—and so on and so forth. No place for ladder jacks or pump jacks. Span is too long to even think of getting a plank across. Now remember, this house is not the same as the one I have to bid on, but presents many of the same problems.

JTP


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Heres how we do it: get 2x4 approx. 3 ft long and kerf it across the grain with deep enough kerfs to set it down across and into 2 seams. It will lock into place. Then take 2 sets of mini vice grips and lock them down on the seams on the south side of the 2x4 and right against the 2x4. You may need several of these rigs to get around or up or whatever, but its a stable situation.


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## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Vermont*

Great ideas. I can also kerf some triangles to match the roof pitch and come to level. Kerfing--heck, I'm not real good thinking outside of the box. Thanks for a great solution.

JTP


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

JTP said:


> Great ideas. I can also kerf some triangles to match the roof pitch and come to level. Kerfing--heck, I'm not real good thinking outside of the box. Thanks for a great solution.
> 
> JTP


To be extra safe, use 2x6 so you are locking into the seam with an even longer kerf...but do back that deal up with vice grips locked onto each seam...


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## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

OK Scott--will do.

JTP:thumbsup:


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## void (Feb 26, 2011)

good idea but i have come across standing seam systems where panels have slid off the roof due to snow and ice falling from above. they where installed as the manufacturer had instructed.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Digging really deep into the past..... This is like thread archeology!


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Paradigmzz said:


> Digging really deep into the past..... This is like thread archeology!


I realize that this in an incredibly old thread, but we've found several tricks on metal roofs. One, instead of drops, we use glass masking film from Protective Products. It has a light adhesive on one side, so we lay it out and smooth it down. It also gives us better footing. 

I couldn't tell if the OP was talking about a true standing seam metal roof, or one with exposed fasteners. Where we are, true standing seam is very rare; out here, they nearly all have some exposed fasteners. We remove some of the screws and use longer, stouter screws in those holes for securing roof jacks for toe boards. When we're done, we replace the screws, making sure that they are correctly installed.

We also have some squares of 3/4 ply with furniture foam glued to the bottom. They are handy for non-marking surfaces to stand or sit on when we're working on delicate surfaces.


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## scottjr (Jan 14, 2012)

I have used the foam from couch cushions on a couple roofs.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

scottjr said:


> I have used the foam from couch cushions on a couple roofs.


I've always felt that the key to producing nice work is getting comfortable, but isn't that taking it a little far?

Another local contractor was working on a university project and noticed that his crew was falling behind schedule. So that students could follow the progress of "their" new building, the university had several webcams set up. The contractor watched one day from his office, and saw his crew up on the roof, taking naps.


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