# products for repairing rotten wood



## firepaint (Jul 21, 2009)

Just wondering what folks are using to repair rotten trim. I've used everything from wood filler to bondo to epoxy putty depending on the location and severity of the
damage.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

replace it is the best way.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

nEighter said:


> replace it is the best way.


Yep.


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

nEighter said:


> replace it is the best way.


I agree for the most part.

I like to use abatron wood epoxy. They have a liquid product that you brush on. It hardens the soft wood to make a sound substrate for the epoxy. Its a top notch product with a high price tag but I have found that it is solid and worth it for certain situations.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

replace it...but I have used Elmers wood hardener after digging it out and letting it dry, then bondo...I know it's cheesey....but it can work for small repairs.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

LOSTinDETAILS said:


> I agree for the most part.
> 
> I like to use abatron wood epoxy. They have a liquid product that you brush on. It hardens the soft wood to make a sound substrate for the epoxy. Its a top notch product with a high price tag but I have found that it is solid and worth it for certain situations.


sure, I just thought he had covered that. BTW I have never used the hardning stuff on woodrot. How long does it take to work? How much is it? AND do you really like it all that much?


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

nEighter said:


> sure, I just thought he had covered that. BTW I have never used the hardning stuff on woodrot. How long does it take to work? How much is it? AND do you really like it all that much?


This is the hardener I mentioned.










Its not some miracle product that I use for all situations. I do like to use it for repairing rotting casings, doors, windows, trim and shutters. The price is about $40 depending where you go for the small kit and it is enough to make a quart of filler. I have used this product for going on 5 years with no problems.

edit: sorry for the huge pic. still learning to resize


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

Abatron wood epoxy +1 (It is like Play doe) And West fiberglass resin to tough up what ever wood fibers what ever I miss in digging out the rot. http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildingandrestorationproducts/woodrestorationmaintenance/woodepox.html
David


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Okay so how long does it take you guys to do this? Seems like it might ALMOST cost what it would cost to replace these nasty pieces. Unless it takes minutes to do..


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

Again...it is not for everyday use. I mainly use it for restoring historic and period homes that have custom millwork that would be a pain to replace. Why replace a whole sill when you can patch a 2 inch area and be done. The price is added in to the job. The peoples houses that get this product can afford it. The time thing is not an issue either because you mix, fill, wait, sand, prime and then paint. 

I agree with you for the most part that everyday rot on joe blows cookie cutter gets replaced because of ease and availability of materials. I was purely commenting on what I like and what works for me. Thanks for listening


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

yep. Just didn't know how worth it this would be because I haven't used this product  Have a good one man!


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## johnleeke (Oct 18, 2007)

*Wood-Epoxy Repair*

Wood-Epoxy Repair

1. Remove decayed wood
2. prime wood surfaces with epoxy primer or consolidant
3. Fill void with epoxy paste filler
4. Trim excess cured filler down to surrounding surfaces

Here's a video showing the method:

http://www.kyte.tv/ch/16008-historic-homeworks/277056-tucson-wood-repair

A repair like the one in the video takes 30 to 90 minutes direct labor over the course of two days.

John
by hammer and hand great works do stand
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com


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## Msargent (Jan 16, 2009)

I have been using abatron two part putty mix white/cream colors expensive stuff tho but really good. Before this job I always used to use car bondo thats what my former boss always used to use.


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## LA Painter (Jul 28, 2009)

johnleeke said:


> Here's a video showing the method:


Thanks for the info and video - I really did watch the whole thing. 

I run into that exact repair a lot. I gave up on bondo, and started referring it to a carpenter for replacement.

How does this stuff hold up to the elements over time? 

Has anyone checked their repairs after five years?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

In my own experience with exterior shutters, after 5 years it did not hold up all that well. Now this is an extreme situation with major repairing that was done, so all in all I was happy with the product. The shutters should have been replaced to begin with but are still out there at this point because they still look OK from the street.


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## johnleeke (Oct 18, 2007)

> Thanks for the info and video - I really did watch the whole thing.


You're welcome. I have to be careful what I post here or they accuse me of "spamming," or whatever.



> I run into that exact repair a lot. I gave up on bondo, and started referring it to a carpenter for replacement.


Bondo is made for sheet metal repairs so you can't really expect it to do well on wood.



> How does this stuff hold up to the elements over time?


The stuff itself holds up just fine. I have repairs I've done with it that are over 30 years old. If there is a failure it is usually due to how you design the repair--that's why I show so much in the video and talk about why the wood deteriorated in the first place. There's more to know for other types of repairs with this stuff. I've put all that in a publication, but they call it "spamming" if I tell you about the publication, so if you want it you'll have to find it on your own. 

I don't know why they are set against me for spamming, It's not like I'm some big faceless corporation gyping people out of their money, I'm just a tradesman who's found a way to share what he has figured out working on old buildings. I suppose it's not much different than using peoples messages to sell advertising space. In any case, I don't make the rules here, I just try to go by them.

I'm glad the video was helpful to you.

John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com


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## LA Painter (Jul 28, 2009)

Thanks - I’ll give it a try.

Sometimes I think I may lose jobs because I tell the HO they need a carpenter to do the repairs before I start... where as the other bidders say they will include the repairs - which usually means stuffing the hole with joint compound. lol :hammer:


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

johnleeke said:


> You're welcome. I have to be careful what I post here or they accuse me of "spamming," or whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


John, I looked at your past (first) posts and several have been edited because of "spamming". You need to understand that the general MO of spammers is to join and pop in once in a while to post a link. You have been a member for almost two years, have 8 posts, almost all of them promoting yourself or products. 
That may not be the case with you, your last posts had some good info, I even thanked you yesterday.
It would help us (mods and members) greatly if you would post an introduction. We usually look at past posts before removing a link.
We welcome your contributions to the forum and please don't be offended if we jump to a wrong conclusion once in a while!


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I do it a lot like *johnleeke* same product. Main places That I use it is bottoms of jams ,window sills. Major holes in siding but less than 3"x3". One tip with it I have started to shape it with a small trawel and a little bit of Napa on it. I can get it to shape allmost complety this why. have used a wire brush for patches in vertical ceder siding and from my house it didn't look bad. ;-) The other thing once the bottom of a door jam is replace with this it will never rot away again.
David/toledo


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

johnleeke said:


> Wood-Epoxy Repair
> 
> 1. Remove decayed wood
> 2. prime wood surfaces with epoxy primer or consolidant
> ...



I watched the entire video. Kudos for making it :thumbsup: That was dryrot that took care of that sealant huh?

I could demo that whole brickmold that you are repairing the bottoms on, get some vinyl (1-12' and 1-10') pieces miter and w/ a 18 gauge 2.5" finish nailer be done in an hour. I know that in some areas (historic applications) that stuff could come in handy, just not sure on a door or window how handy it would be. I could sale the job for 100.00 with brand new vinyl brickmold caulked w/ elastomeric and if they had the paint, another 25.00 for me to paint it. I could be done in no more than an hour for 125.00 and they would be setting with a new CRISP clean looking door frame. I could sale adding insulation into the void for cost plus 15.00 for labor. I could make a nice hour out of in and have it looking perfect.

















It IS nice to have the option to repair though.:jester:

I am not trying to be boastful.. what I mean is, by the time you factor in the cost for the material + labor you are looking at around the same as what I quoted above. and it ends up being JUST a repair. With the new.. 1. easier sale, 2. it is NEW (whole thing), 3. there is no worry of it failing and breaking off.. POTENTIALLY.


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

Ya in that case I to would be doing a replacement. In jams if it is a 1" or 2" I epoxy other it is new wood.
David


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