# Georgian Windows New Masking Technique



## charleymcdowell (Mar 27, 2010)

Hey Gents! Just wanted to share a new idea that I got from my friend who is an art major. This method works well because I was able to do a few things that I would not be able to do with liquid masking. I wanted to use the jasco product at first but then I realized that the point of that product is to not adheree to glass and it can only be used on bare wood. So the contact papper was cut so that there was an 1/8th inch reveal to clean up the lines and seal the frames from moisture. I used coverstain for adhesion to the glass and the floated sikaflex 1a over the failing glazing and then put a coat of ppg timeless over the timeless. This process amazingly saved me about 5 days as well because I precut the papper before I went to work. There was 250 windows and I masked them in two days. It took another day to prep them and then another day to spray. I think it would have taken much longer another way but I would love to here some feedback if anyone has it 
Thanx


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I don't exactly understand your process. Maybe if you broke it up into sentences with some space it would be easier to read, and comprehend.


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## woodtradesman (Sep 22, 2008)

Are you saying the liquid masker won't adhere to glass so you made do some sort of sticky paper?


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

I dont do much ext.......but I wouldnt want my name on the window prep. Looks a little rough.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Roadog is right, that looks like C###


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

If they wouldn't pay for a reglazing what other prep could he have done. Figuring they are all that bad that is at least $50 per window to reglaze.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

What kind of contact paper are we talking about?


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Roadog is right, that looks like C###


Care to present a solution?

Failed glazing is a tough call. You can spend a painful amount of time on this. Often these windows are old float glass that has bubbles, pits, imperfections that if painted can sometime 'hold' the paint and no amount of scraping with a blade it going to get it out. 

Charley I don't exactly get your process, but can see where you are going with this and will give you credit for looking for a less expensive solution to many panels of 100 year old failed glazing. The problem I see with this is it looks ok (much better than before) from the sidewalk and maybe closer, but on the inside of that window your going to have 'framing'. I wouldn't be able to stop looking at it. (not a good thing )

I read recently someone here saying they love to glaze windows. Personally I hate it....to stand on a ladder rubbing putty to make it pliable to squish in a window makes me grumpy. Removing them isn't always an option, but you might be surprised to find a window guy who will reglaze them. 

I can appreciate you seeking a 'straight edge' on an old house, but personally I try to even out and seal what is there and follow it....curves and all.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> If they wouldn't pay for a reglazing what other prep could he have done. Figuring they are all that bad that is at least $50 per window to reglaze.


Your more efficient with your words to essentially say the same thing.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Well just looking at that first picture.I don't think it is ready to be primed.


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## charleymcdowell (Mar 27, 2010)

Wow. I had no Idea I would get so much feedback. First of all thanks a lot to all the good and the bad. Sorry about the original post I was writing it at about 5:30 in the morning over coffee and I was kind of rushed. I guess I should try again. 
1rst step:
Pre Cut - 250, 10" x 13" pieces of contact papper. (this is the same thing used for putting on shelving)
2nd Step 
After sticking a piece on every window go back with a dry wall knife as a straight edge and cut the excess masking from the windows only leaving as much reveal is as needed to straighten the line.
3rd step
Sand all failing paint and remove any 100 % failed glazing. i.e. the stuff that is somewhat sticking leave in and count on the sikaflex to hold it.
4th step
Caulk and prime all windows making sure not to leave too much caulking that will not allow safe removal of contact paper.
5th step
spray and backbrush
6th step 
de mask and your done.
Wow that sounds like a lot but like I said the windows took 4 days start to finish. I have painted these type of windows before in San Fransisco and the customers loved it because it was a quick and cheaper fix than re-glazing and as much as I gather from talking to many paint reps, this is a pretty bulletproof fix. I think the key is that you are actually getting a true adherence to the glass, and thereby protecting the wood frames from rot. I will agree that this method is not the most ideal way to preform the job. I must admit that I cannot think of another solution besides removing 1000' of glazing and then re-glazing and then brushing all of the windows. if someone has a solution that would fulfill the wishes of the HO and make these windows look better I would love to hear it. 
I would like to say thanks especially to paint and hammer for your open mind. 
John Howell, I see you are a senior member so I must respect that but I would say this, as I am sure you already know, not everyone can work on that job were the HO has a bottomless pocket and can afford to strip the house and start over from scratch. Some of us who are starting out must do the jobs that are not the most glorious. I only hope that I can work for the big boys some day. I do appreciate the honesty.
Regards,
Charley McDowell
_"The Old Time Painting Company_"


"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe"
"Carl Sagan"


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

I wouldn't say working on a old homes is less glamourous.

You have a good niche going....carry on. :thumbsup:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I like the process, and it looks as thou it turned out well.


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## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

This is neither here nor there, but I kind of appreciate the wavey "Old," look of some paint and glazing, and so do some customers. I've actually been told in the past "Don't take that all the way down to smooth, you'll relmove the character."  Whatever the customer wants right? I agree with the comment that a perfectly straight line rolled over the existing 1/8" will be noticable from the inside of the home. You should always follow the inside reveal of the interior mullions. Again, I do like some of the character of the "Perfection through imperfection," of those old homes. 

I have a picture of a window I rebuilt for a lady last May, not sure if it proves my point, but I didn't even try (and she didn't want me to) to take out the little bumps and ridges. I did have to replace one of the panes though and on that window I made it perfect. Also, my Infrared paint remover is perfect for removing old glazing. It heats up the linseed oil until it comes out like brand new and then you can replace it with actually new product. You have to hold it at a 45 degree angle and give it indirect heat or you will crack the old glass. Good luck finding a replacement if you do.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

So the big deal here is using the contact paper as masking, verses a masking machine? (debatable).

Or is it filling cracked glazing with Sikaflex, or another flexible material. Not exactly an original idea, or a system that has the best esthetically pleasing finish, but a time saver non the less. Besides, if the homeowner isn't interested in the cost for the whole nine yards, they should expect to get what they pay for. Therefore, it is a good system.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

What about using trim magic or peel bond instead of sikaflex?

Otherwise it seems dude is just masking the windows so they can be sprayed instead of brushing them by hand, which is of course awesome.


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