# First time NEW CONSTRUCTION



## dillingerpaint (Sep 19, 2013)

So, I have a new construction ,drywall,Smooth no texture. I have one other guy. GC wants everything back rolled if spraying. I have all millwork at offsite to spray. Just wondering what would be the best way to proceed seeing this is my first new construction. 2800 sqft 2 story. I can run a sprayer well so not seeing an issue there.... Just never done it inside. One concern of GC is last guy would have "fuzzy" texture on walls ,from drywall fibers I guess. Which he thought May have been from spraying. My thoughts were spray primer and backroll everything, then ceilings, shield ceilings spray walls. Never used a shield though so not sure if that's the best way. I can always learn though. Have to sometime. What's your thoughts?


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

You should have a system by now. How did you figure your price?


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

You're in trouble if you don't know that stuff.


----------



## dillingerpaint (Sep 19, 2013)

I have a system for reprints. If I had a proven system for myself on new construction I wouldn't be asking the question....:whistling2: The price I came to is the going rate for new const. With this GC. If I wants the job I had to meet what's he's been paying. It's more than I make on repaints. As long as I get it done in a reasonable time.


----------



## dillingerpaint (Sep 19, 2013)

Repaint not reprint..... Dum auto korrect....


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

What's the percentage for the wall out? I hope you have enough for the final, that's where most guys rob Peter to pay Paul.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Be prepared to possible loose your arse. At least that was the results on my first nc. Seriously, diligently keep track of ALL your man hours, It'll blow your mind. 

From what limited NC experience I have, it's all about efficiency. I was mainly an exterior guy when I did my first, I quickly found out my interior skills were lacking. The job turned out beautifully, it just took a lot of 14+ hr days to get there. That job still haunts me.

Do a professional job, take some lumps, and learn some invaluable lessons. 

And the "fuzzys" are from dummies that don't sand between coats.


----------



## viking (Dec 27, 2013)

Fuzzys come from the drywall guys burning the hell outta the paper while sanding. Just back sand after primer and you will be good.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Another thing: Make sure the walls are clean before you put your primer on. Sounds commonsense, but I know a lot of people who don't do a good enough job at cleaning the sanding debris off walls. You could have adhesion problems and at the same time you get pits sometimes in the walls/texture where the dust creates a problem. Not big ones, but pinhole looking ones.

Another thing, make sure the base area where the wall meets the concrete is clean or when you spray you kick up a ton of sanding dust. Use water to keep it down (if no carpet/flooring) has been installed. 

Spray & backroll with a bigger roller it'll help you go faster (18"), just pre-wet your roller with some paint & clean the fuzz before off it before you start/load it. 

Good luck! Lots to learn.


----------



## dillingerpaint (Sep 19, 2013)

Thanks guys. GC is supplying all materials. I'm labor and my materials. What order would some of you recommend for this job? As far as walls or ceilings first.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

dillingerpaint said:


> Thanks guys. GC is supplying all materials. I'm labor and my materials. What order would some of you recommend for this job? As far as walls or ceilings first.



The method you laid out in the OP is the quickest way I have found to do NC before the trim is up. 
The tricky part is the shielding, but if you can figure that out its well worth it. Just make sure you use a ceiling paint that can be touched up. You will make some mistakes learning to use the shield.


----------



## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Tinting your ceiling and wall primer/sealer close to your finish colors can save a full coat of paint cutting your labor costs.

You want to finish the Kitchen, Baths and Laundry/Utility Rooms 1st because Plumbers, Cabinet Installers, Tile Setters and Electricians will get in there and install their materials and that will eat up your time coming back and having to cut and roll.

Depending on how you will finish your trim, 1 undercoat, sand and a light finish coat before install is what I suggest. That way after the install you can prep and put 2 light coats.

What is a popular way is spray and back roll your walls after your ceiling is done. Spray your casing with a 211 or something similar, doors off sight when you do your trim. On final brush and roll walls as needed and touch up trim and doors. 

Good Luck!!! It will be a great learning curve on the 1st one.:thumbup:


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Make sure you have your ass covered for trade damage and touch ups. They will bleed all your profits if you are on the hook to fix all their damage. The rest you will have to figure on your own after doing one or two. 

Everyones production will be different, and you will learn how to be more productive as you get more experience doing NC.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

For those of you that do a lot of new construction- Would you say the cost is greater or less than a repaint of the same space?


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Much less.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

straight_lines said:


> Much less.



I just bid a new garage + upstairs rooms. Used my residential rates but pretty sure I was way too high. Not gonna sweat it though, it was good to get some practice reading plans.

Original job when I discussed it with the homeowners was prime with gardz, and 2 topcoats of semi-gloss all sprayed and backrolled or brushed and rolled. 

Don't remember wall SF off the top of my head, but floor was 1100 SF with 9 foot ceilings downstairs and 9-12 foot vaulted ceilings upstairs. 

Was supposed to resubmit some different options for them to bring the price down and they gave me the old "We are really busy right now, can you just email them".


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Hines Painting said:


> For those of you that do a lot of new construction- Would you say the cost is greater or less than a repaint of the same space?


Generally less, but that depends on the trim package and the other trades. We've had elaborate woodwork on some NC that meant a ton of handwork. The GC and other subs can make it a more expensive if they're careless or not organized.

That being said, we got out of the NC game when the old guard of builders retired. The newcomers seemed to encourage the race to the bottom so we've concentrated elsewhere.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Gough said:


> Generally less, but that depends on the trim package and the other trades. We've had elaborate woodwork on some NC that meant a ton of handwork. The GC and other subs can make it a more expensive if they're careless or not organized.
> 
> That being said, we got out of the NC game when the old guard of builders retired. The newcomers seemed to encourage the race to the bottom so we've concentrated elsewhere.


Ya, after this I'm thinking I may abandon it. There's not a lot of it going on around me anyways.

And I don't have the production, nor am I desperate enough, to lowball for it.


----------



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

straight_lines said:


> Make sure you have your ass covered for trade damage and touch ups. They will bleed all your profits if you are on the hook to fix all their damage. The rest you will have to figure on your own after doing one or two.
> 
> Everyones production will be different, and you will learn how to be more productive as you get more experience doing NC.


Right on Tommy, some "touch ups" can suck you dry. 

We were getting killed on touch ups until we switched to 8 hours of touch up included in the price, anything over was TM. 

Way better being in control than getting beat up by careless electricians, plumbers, ect.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Right on Tommy, some "touch ups" can suck you dry.
> 
> We were getting killed on touch ups until we switched to 8 hours of touch up included in the price, anything over was TM.
> 
> Way better being in control than getting beat up by careless electricians, plumbers, ect.


What we finally settled on was waiting to do the final coat on all walls, excepting closets, after all the othe trades were done: electrical and plumbing trimmed out, carpet installed, cabinets set, etc. no worries about who dinged what or if touch ups would show.


----------



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Gough said:


> What we finally settled on was waiting to do the final coat on all walls, excepting closets, after all the othe trades were done: electrical and plumbing trimmed out, carpet installed, cabinets set, etc. no worries about who dinged what or if touch ups would show.


Some "touch ups" were so bad we might as well have given them a complete coat. 

If we were to ever do NC again I'm pretty sure I'd go with your approach.


----------



## viking (Dec 27, 2013)

On nc I like to prime then sand. Then spray out my lids. Then I cut in all the tops of the walls. Then I spray wall color and stop spraying about 2 or 3 feet from the ceiling. Lay my paint a little heavy at the top and push the excess paint up while back rolling. I never got the hang of shielding.


----------



## BhamPainter (Mar 6, 2013)

I just got a request for my first NC bid, too. I've worked for other guys on renovations, etc., but very few brand new houses. I've always worked with trim installed and flooring out. I prime, then spray trim, then bag it all up perfectly and shoot ceilings. Finally, I mask ceilings with 48-inch plastic and spray walls. I pull all doors and spray them onsite in the biggest, most open room I can find.

Experienced guys: how do you get the GC or HO to spell out the trim package? Ask for pictures? Obviously, six-panel doors take a lot more time to prep than flat slabs; how do you account for that in your bid?

Sent from my Acclaim using PaintTalk.com mobile app


----------



## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

With new construction over-sanded dry wall is an issue. It should be a effort of technique not someone leaning on the pole. To compensate use a good tinted baseline or hi-hyde primer, I don't skimp on the product, spray, back roll, leave for a day, sand med grit, and I hand sand with a 4x8"foam pad any area around light switches, and hi traffic areas door entrances, etc., re-sand the second coat. I usually make enough money to do the touch ups for free, but I rattle the electricians, plumbers and anyone else who looks like they are wall bangers any chance I get.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

New construction. Hyumph.


----------



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

Careful getting too close to the ceilings. Try this: shield w/211 tip, when spraying the body of the wall STOP at eye level (or roughly 4* the fansize) from the edging. Instead spray thick up to that point and let the backroller take it the rest of the way.

If you spray up to your edged ceiling, it will leave a "halo" that won't be noticed while its wet, but once its dry your crisp edge will be shot.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

StepUpBham said:


> I just got a request for my first NC bid, too. I've worked for other guys on renovations, etc., but very few brand new houses. I've always worked with trim installed and flooring out. I prime, then spray trim, then bag it all up perfectly and shoot ceilings. Finally, I mask ceilings with 48-inch plastic and spray walls. I pull all doors and spray them onsite in the biggest, most open room I can find.
> 
> Experienced guys: how do you get the GC or HO to spell out the trim package? Ask for pictures? Obviously, six-panel doors take a lot more time to prep than flat slabs; how do you account for that in your bid?
> 
> Sent from my Acclaim using PaintTalk.com mobile app


1.) Instead of masking the ceiling, which is usually harder and takes more time, mask the walls if your spraying. Spray walls, let dry, mask walls (9ft plastic) and spray ceiling. Much easier that way.

2.) Spelling out trim package should be easy. Unless the trim is something very unusual design wise, if you do enough NC you'll know what is "standard" for trim. Depends on what type of contractor your bidding for too (track homes vs custom). 

They should be able to tell you what type of trim (casing, base, crown etc.) as well as doors (style & quantity). After that it's based on personal experience, how long it takes you to prep, spray, brush, or whatever you do. If you can do some testing and create an average time per door or per item, you can bid more effectively. 

Good luck!


----------



## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> 1.) Instead of masking the ceiling, which is usually harder and takes more time, mask the walls if your spraying. Spray walls, let dry, mask walls (9ft plastic) and spray ceiling. Much easier that way.
> 
> 2.) Spelling out trim package should be easy. Unless the trim is something very unusual design wise, if you do enough NC you'll know what is "standard" for trim. Depends on what type of contractor your bidding for too (track homes vs custom).
> 
> ...


Absolutely


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

For the trim package, they should be able to give you details like "casing: WM #356, oak, stained", etc, for all the running ang standing trim. For doors, at a minimum, it should be, door material (species of wood/ primed hardboard/metal/ etc), style (flush, paneled, French, etc), size, and type (SC or HC). Dealing with an 8-0 x 5-0 SC door takes more labor.... Windows should be similar. Ideally, you should get a door and window schedule. 

Finishes on the doors, windows, and trim should be called out in general. Most of the time, it's all painted or all stain/clear-coat. If it's a mix, watch out for doors & frames that are to be split-finished. One of the more time-consuming jobs that we've had was a house with a ton of windows, where all of the snap-in window grids were split-finished: white on the outside, stain and clear-coat on the inside. Fortunately, that was done under a change order.


----------



## BhamPainter (Mar 6, 2013)

woodcoyote said:


> 1.) Instead of masking the ceiling, which is usually harder and takes more time, mask the walls if your spraying. Spray walls, let dry, mask walls (9ft plastic) and spray ceiling. Much easier that way.


I've done it that way once or twice, but didn't like it all that much, mostly because the plastic seemed unwieldy. 9' plastic is certainly cheaper than 4', though, and the masking is easier that way.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

StepUpBham said:


> I've done it that way once or twice, but didn't like it all that much, mostly because the plastic seemed unwieldy. 9' plastic is certainly cheaper than 4', though, and the masking is easier that way.


Do you know how to use a 3m hand masker? If not, you'll probably never make it in residential new construction. 

If you do, great. Just load it up with 9ft and you'll be fine. When you drape it down the wall, tack it with blue tape so you don't damage the paint and when your done spraying the ceiling you can just undo the plastic.

In small spaces such as closets etc, the spray pressure creates a lot of air movement. Get an extra 3 or 4, empty 5 gal buckets. Fill them a quarter of the way with water or dirt or whatever you find that is somewhat heavy. Place buckets in the 4 corners of the small room/closet and the plastic won't move on you with the air, so you can spray without fighting the plastic back. Just a tid bit.

Another tidbit:
Use the yellow frog tape before you mask up. You'll be able to tape it up the next day or the same day (late afternoon) if you spray really early in the morning, without damaging the wall paint. That will give you a real crisp "cut" line where the ceiling paint meets the wall paint, all without having to cut in. Mask, spray, remove and on to the next room/house. 

I'm going to be doing a new house this week and probably use this method as it can go pretty quickly, I'll try to remember to take some pictures of the steps/progress to post on here. 


Good luck to yah!


----------



## azzurri (Feb 27, 2014)

Spray prime and back roll, prime (spray) all trim once installed, spray and backroll all ceilings and crown mouldings, prep and sand trim and spray final coats, cut and roll walls. Just my method on custom high end homes. Sometimes floors are installed and then covered.


----------



## azzurri (Feb 27, 2014)

Only masking is on hinges cause doors are solid and weigh a ton, and in tiled areas like washrooms


----------



## BhamPainter (Mar 6, 2013)

Yeah, I'm pretty handy with a masker--when I said "unwieldy" I was really referring to the billowing problem. Thanks for the bucket tip!


----------

