# Caulking corners



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

Ok, I've never noticed till now how much I pool caulk in corners. Aagh! Is there a technique to not have it pool? I'm struggling to get a tight corner. Luckily it won't matter much with this cause it's white on white but if if this was an accent wall white trim and dark walls it would look horrendous.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Like 90 % of painters out there, it appears you are running too large of a bead. Cut that hole in the tip TINY. You'll be surprised how much caulk will come out of a tiny hole. This will greatly decrease the wasted "wipe off" and the amount of caulk that accumulates in corners.

If you can fit the nozzle clean out rod in the hole, the hole is way too large for most trim caulk jobs.....unless you're working behind a really bad carpenter!

And use a utility knife to cut the nozzle...the cutters on guns are about useless when cutting a small hole. A knife will give you a much cleaner and precise cut.

I might add, don't caulk right up to the corner....stop a bit shy and when finishing use your finger to push excess caulk into the corner. If you get your bead the right size, you won't have to do this as much, but if you are applying excess caulk you can stop short and push the excess into the corner.


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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

I thought it was tiny, said no man ever. But really, I stretched to get the cleaner in there. It should be smaller then the cleaner?


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

cardgunner said:


> I thought it was tiny, said no man ever. But really, I stretched to get the cleaner in there. It should be smaller then the cleaner?


Yes. Cut it as small as you can and still have a hole in the nozzle. You can always cut the hole bigger. Experiment a bit until you find the smallest opening that will work. Once found this can be your default setting for caulk openings. If you can fit the cleaner in, even with struggling, the hole is bigger than needed for most trim caulking. Once you find the ideal opening size, you will find you caulk jobs are better, your hands stay cleaner, and you use less caulk. A win all the way around!:biggrin:


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I knew a guy who used a plastic spreader in the corners. Did a very nice job. I never had an issue because my fingers are pointy.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

And if you must, a wet rag used to wipe the corners can help sharpen things up.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*What is the nozzle clean out rod?*



Lightningboy65 said:


> Yes. Cut it as small as you can and still have a hole in the nozzle. You can always cut the hole bigger. Experiment a bit until you find the smallest opening that will work. Once found this can be your default setting for caulk openings. If you can fit the cleaner in, even with struggling, the hole is bigger than needed for most trim caulking. Once you find the ideal opening size, you will find you caulk jobs are better, your hands stay cleaner, and you use less caulk. A win all the way around!:biggrin:


Lb65, a little confused here. Is the "nozzle clean out rod" that you are referring to the thin metal shaft that is attached to a swivel hinge on the caulk gun that one is supposed to use to break the seal on the caulk tube after cutting a hole in the plastic tip of the caulk tube? If so, what do you use to break the seal on the caulk tube?

futtyos


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

futtyos said:


> Lb65, a little confused here. Is the "nozzle clean out rod" that you are referring to the thin metal shaft that is attached to a swivel hinge on the caulk gun that one is supposed to use to break the seal on the caulk tube after cutting a hole in the plastic tip of the caulk tube? If so, what do you use to break the seal on the caulk tube?
> 
> futtyos


A lot of caulk no longer has a foil seal, which many people do not realize. They just keep sicking the rod in the nozzle, assuming they are breaking the seal. If required to break a seal, something like a piece of solid copper wire like found in 14-2 romex wire works. Or whatever small diameter object you can find. That rod on the caulk gun is just too large for my liking.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

futtyos said:


> Lb65, a little confused here. Is the "nozzle clean out rod" that you are referring to the thin metal shaft that is attached to a swivel hinge on the caulk gun that one is supposed to use to break the seal on the caulk tube after cutting a hole in the plastic tip of the caulk tube? If so, what do you use to break the seal on the caulk tube?
> 
> futtyos


Find a piece of thin wire or something similar in size to the hole, this ain't rocket surgery!:surprise:


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I take a dampened white cloth and stretch it taught over the caulking tube tip and tool the caulk with the cloth wrapped tip holding the tube at the same angle that the caulk was applied yielding perfect results. I keep the beads as small as possible.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Alchemy Redux said:


> I take a dampened white cloth and stretch it taught over the caulking tube tip and tool the caulk with the cloth wrapped tip holding the tube at the same angle that the caulk was applied yielding perfect results. I keep the beads as small as possible.


Is the following picture similar to what you described?


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

CApainter said:


> Is the following picture similar to what you described?


Identical concept yet I hold the cloth taught with my hand rather than using tape. It’s super fast and super effective and I only do it for intersection points at inside corners illustrated in the OP’s photo.


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## CynLei (Aug 5, 2019)

Alchemy Redux said:


> I take a dampened white cloth and stretch it taught over the caulking tube tip and tool the caulk with the cloth wrapped tip holding the tube at the same angle that the caulk was applied yielding perfect results. I keep the beads as small as possible.




Hmm...trying to picture this. Do you then pierce the cloth to allow for the bead of caulk? I envision the thin, slightly stretchy “paint cloths” that are sold and either holding it in place by hand or wedging it under the tube in the gun.

I spotted a re-caulk done yesterday that I was just praying was how it looked prior to being cleaned. I feel pretty certain it’s the “finished” product, and way too dark as well.  ....I see much work in my future...I’m hoping the cloth idea will help me with instruction.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I use the following method with less than ideal results.


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## CynLei (Aug 5, 2019)

CApainter said:


> I use the following method with less than ideal results.




Lol...He WAS doing that, with a way to large hole in the nozzle. Maybe I should be pleased that this looked better than the thin film an inch below and above the corner! ...but it’ll still be work to correct!


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

CApainter said:


> I use the following method with less than ideal results.


That is what is referred to as the status quo method!


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## Fman (Aug 20, 2011)

Lightningboy65 said:


> A lot of caulk no longer has a foil seal, which many people do not realize. They just keep sicking the rod in the nozzle, assuming they are breaking the seal. If required to break a seal, something like a piece of solid copper wire like found in 14-2 romex wire works. Or whatever small diameter object you can find. That rod on the caulk gun is just too large for my liking.


I always thought that was for fixing bayonets before going into combat with carpenters. The more you know...


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

CynLei said:


> I spotted a re-caulk done yesterday that I was just praying was how it looked prior to being cleaned. I feel pretty certain it’s the “finished” product, and way too dark as well.  ....I see much work in my future...I’m hoping the cloth idea will help me with instruction.


If that is real tile (as it appears to be) and not a one piece tub surround, the tub/tile interface _should_ be grout , not caulk. Caulking this area can cause moisture to build up behind the lower rows of tile. Grout allows the moisture a means of escape.


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## CynLei (Aug 5, 2019)

Lightningboy65 said:


> If that is real tile (as it appears to be) and not a one piece tub surround, the tub/tile interface _should_ be grout , not caulk. Caulking this area can cause moisture to build up behind the lower rows of tile. Grout allows the moisture a means of escape.




Yes, you are correct on all counts. He used the sanded caulk that is supposed to look like grout but has silicone for a moisture barrier. Matching the grout might be a bit tough, but seeing the color selected in the sanded caulk, it couldn’t be that difficult. There was considerable mildew under the huge bead of silicone that was there when we arrived.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

CynLei said:


> Yes, you are correct on all counts. He used the sanded caulk that is supposed to look like grout but has silicone for a moisture barrier. Matching the grout might be a bit tough, but seeing the color selected in the sanded caulk, it couldn’t be that difficult. There was considerable mildew under the huge bead of silicone that was there when we arrived.


There are probably more tile/tub interfaces that _are_ caulked than aren't. That doesn't mean that is the correct way to do it. As you stated, it causes mildew problems and can also lead to substrate failure due to continual dampness.


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## CynLei (Aug 5, 2019)

Lightningboy65 said:


> There are probably more tile/tub interfaces that _are_ caulked than aren't. That doesn't mean that is the correct way to do it. As you stated, it causes mildew problems and can also lead to substrate failure due to continual dampness.




I bet you’re correct. Most that I see were grouted then clear siliconed over. (Best of both worlds lol) It looks like substrate failure already occurred with this tile/tub area.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

CynLei said:


> Hmm...trying to picture this. Do you then pierce the cloth to allow for the bead of caulk? I envision the thin, slightly stretchy “paint cloths” that are sold and either holding it in place by hand or wedging it under the tube in the gun.
> 
> I spotted a re-caulk done yesterday that I was just praying was how it looked prior to being cleaned. I feel pretty certain it’s the “finished” product, and way too dark as well.  ....I see much work in my future...I’m hoping the cloth idea will help me with instruction.


For a really fine bead I use the white towels or fold them over doubling up on the thickness and for larger beads I use the blue Scott microfiber towels, the microfiber removing more material yet leaving a cleaner bead. And no, I don’t pierce the towels, performing the application and wiping in two separate operations, the changeovers being done pretty quickly before the beads start to skin over. I stretch the wiping towels up onto the gun holding them with my free hand.


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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

Alchemy Redux said:


> For a really fine bead I use the white towels or fold them over doubling up on the thickness and for larger beads I use the blue Scott microfiber towels, the microfiber removing more material yet leaving a cleaner bead. And no, I don’t pierce the towels, performing the application and wiping in two separate operations, the changeovers being done pretty quickly before the beads start to skin over. I stretch the wiping towels up onto the gun holding them with my free hand.


So you push the caulk thru the towel? 

I tried laying down a bead then cover the tube and go over what I just did with mixed results. None of which was better then my finger and then a quick wipe. I did go with a smaller hole. I also did not start and end putting down the caulk close to the corners. I left about 1/4" gap and worked it in from the 2 sides. Finger is a little raw this morning, lol.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

cardgunner said:


> So you push the caulk thru the towel?
> 
> I tried laying down a bead then cover the tube and go over what I just did with mixed results. None of which was better then my finger and then a quick wipe. I did go with a smaller hole. I also did not start and end putting down the caulk close to the corners. I left about 1/4" gap and worked it in from the 2 sides. Finger is a little raw this morning, lol.


No, I don’t press it through the towel.

Mixed results with that technique could be due to the type of caulking being used or the size of the bead. I primarily use Big Stretch which has a more glue-like and less watery consistency than some of the caulks I’ve used in the past. I keep the beads really small, so small at times that I can barely tool it with my finger. With a little practice like anything, I find the method to be very effective for precision detail work. Once again I just use the method for tight inside corners where 3 planes intersect, where it’s nearly impossible to get a finger in there, or on t&g material where it dies into another surface and I don’t want the caulk to get into either the gap between the boards or into something like a centerbead profile, yielding razor sharp results. For anything else I just use my finger dampened with water.

Edit: I might also add which I neglected to mention that technique doesn’t work too well when caulking over an existing bead or when the surfaces are a bit too far from perfect, working better on new installations or when the old caulk’s been cut out and the surfaces have been thoroughly smoothed and prepped.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Alchemy, have you had issues with cracking when you apply such a small bead? I tend to apply a thicker bead than I’d like because I think it’s less likely to crack over time.

Also, your caulk technique is very interesting and one I’ve never heard about before. I’ll have to give it a try on a future project. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

PNW Painter said:


> Alchemy, have you had issues with cracking when you apply such a small bead? I tend to apply a thicker bead than I’d like because I think it’s less likely to crack over time.
> 
> Also, your caulk technique is very interesting and one I’ve never heard about before. I’ll have to give it a try on a future project.
> 
> ...


One reason I use fine beads when working with Big Stretch and some of the other caulks I’ve used in the past is that I find heavy beads experience a higher incidence for paint crawling, particularly with interior paints. 

I’ve also never received a callback due to cracked caulking in the duration of my business by applying fine beads, or a callback for anything that I didn’t already catch myself before someone else did. So, no, I don’t get cracking with finer beads that others might experience. Not saying it doesn’t happen. 

All environments are not the same based on location, so what might work for someone in a stable year round environment might not work for someone else in an extreme 4 seasons coastal environment with drastic seasonal humidity changes. 

The wood species also needs to be taken into consideration. I rarely encounter pine or poplar for interior trim packs, using mostly soft maple for paint grade trim so there’s less chance for movement that other painters here might experience. 

Another consideration is the type of paint being used. I’ve never used water based primer or finish for paint grade trim packs, always using oil which seems to provide better stability, reducing movement which can result in the caulk cracking. 

On new construction I’ll take it to the nines checking moisture contents before priming, sometimes stickering the trim and setting up dehumidifiers until the MC is where I want it to be, oil priming all sides before installation. 

More often than not, after installation I’ll check all the trim for movement. If there’s any movement I’ll have the trimmers shoot more nails where and if needed. I find that trimmers often miss the framing when installing trim resulting in cracked caulk. Sometimes on wider trim I’ll request that the trimmers back butter the trim with a PU construction adhesive to minimize movement. A little dab of Liquid Nails or PL reduces the chances for movement that can result in cracked caulking. I’ll even make certain that the HVAC is running a couple of weeks before finishing pulling out all the moisture reducing the chances for movement before caulking. 

Climate control on interiors is also another factor that also needs to be weighed. I’ll advise clients with new homes to install a humidification unit with a hygrometer on their HVAC systems if they already haven’t done so as to not bake the house during the winter months, most if not all heeding my advice.

So what might work for me might not work for someone else because all things might not be equal.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Alchemy Redux said:


> More often than not, after installation I’ll check all the trim for movement. If there’s any movement I’ll have the trimmers shoot more nails where and if needed. I find that trimmers often miss the framing when installing trim resulting in cracked caulk.


On time I was painting a window unit in a foyer...a large rectangular light with a radius above. The radius spanned the center third of the bottom light with a third of the bottom light extending beyond the radius. Of course the bottom window had casing along the top where it extended beyond the radius.

I'm up on scaffold, about 12 feet off the floor. While painting the top of the radius I placed my hand atop the casing of the bottom window, putting a fair portion of my weight on the casing. Snap, crash.....the casing breaks away. My face goes slamming into the wall, my pail of Satin Impervo goes down to the floor, splashing unto the floor and walls (luckily it was new construction and flooring wasn't installed). And, as before this incident I would sometimes do, the scaffold casters were not locked, the scaffold moved about six inches back from the wall from the force of my face hitting the wall. If it would have moved much further I would have ended up on the floor. So, yeah, always lock those casters!!!

Turns out not one of those fasteners in that piece of casing had found purchase in anything but drywall!:sad:

As for thin beads cracking, I have never had a problem on interior work. Exterior work is a different story. On interior work caulk is more often a cosmetic thing, on exterior work caulk is often times part of weatherization and a heavier application may be in order. 

I've definitely witnessed heavier beads exhibit paint crawl in interior work.


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## RJB (Apr 13, 2019)

Just came across this post. I use several methods noted but my "go to" is small bead and I use my finger dipped in water with a little dishwashing liquid. The dishwashing liquid helps with stickiness. I use several paper towels, rags, my pants at times to clean my fingers. If you have a large gap where tile meets tub I have a trick for this so let me know.


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

I was taught to stop the bead roughly 1/2” from the corner & when I use my watered finger to smooth just run the bit of excess down into the corner...has worked well for me.

After cutting my pointer down 2 the bone a few yr’s ago I had to wear bandages n finger condem while working & wet shop towel wouldn’t push excess down into corner so I tried a MINI silicone spatula I’d been using in my dry pigment jars & it was amazing! I still use it whenever I think to but most often just go back to the original method.


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## curiouspainter (Jun 19, 2019)

Tight, seamless caulking has been a struggle for me. I happen to have very big fingers and corners can be a struggle. Thanks for the tips. I know to keep the hole small, but I can be more intentional with it as well. 

Also, I learned the following and recommend it if you aren't already doing somthing like it: use a wet sponge to wipe your fingers off as needed. It works really well and allows for an absorbent place for excess caulk whereas carrying around a rag can build up and redistribute in ways you don't want it to. I keep it on my stepladder as I work my way around a room to keep it at wait level and off the floor or other dusty places.


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