# roller choice pro classic



## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Have to paint some kitchen cabinets tomorrow. Bought some Proclassic(used it when it first came out, but it was crap) for cheapy in and out the customer wanted. Would you guys advise 6 inch roller or hot dog roller on this after cuts. I know, it's not the right way, but homeowner didn't want to go thru the process. I've painted a few over 30 years but not many and have little experience with this product. Thanks for the help. pd


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

I have pics up round here someplace of the exact job you are speaking of...

I use All Surface Enamel alkyd *or* latex, brush in with a 2 1/2" sash, then tool off with a white soild foamy 6" whizzz roller.
My work looks as though it were sprayed.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

glad your work turned out so well. This are an older house, the handles are painted on(can't even see the screws). Will do brush cuts and roll out with 3/8 hot dog. I know plenty read the thread and only one comment. Don't blame ya...Not something I'd normally do, but small job is better than none. I explained the right way to do it and the cost. She asked for the easy way clean it up price. She understands what might happen.


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I am a big fan of Wooster mini roller. (It is built like a normal roller) You can get rollers in most any nap you want.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Weenie roller will work fine, but I'd use a mohair nap as opposed to the 3/8".


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

The foam weenie roller should work great....I've used Pro Classic a few times and really love it for cabinets. I've even used it over interior lacquer painted doors (as a trial experiment) without even scuffing and it had remarkable bond and coverage.


Jeremy


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Masterpiece said:


> The foam weenie roller should work great....I've used Pro Classic a few times and really love it for cabinets. I've even used it over interior lacquer painted doors (as a trial experiment) without even scuffing and it had remarkable bond and coverage.
> 
> 
> Jeremy


...not a real professional way of doing it without proper prep work. Just saying:whistling2:


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

To clarify, the unprepped door application was a trial experiment for my benefit at my shop. I don't experiment on other people...or at least, their property:whistling2:

BTW, I've been curious about the All Surface Enamel in the past (WB) but how does it perform vs Pro Classic?


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Anyway...got the cabinets painted this morning...brushes all cuts and double cut the handles(they were painted over several times). Let that dry while doing next set then rolled out with hot dog 3/8. Haven't used pro classic since my first trial when it first came out. I must say that it's a lot better now. The only problem is it still sets up quite fast, which was fine for this job, but I wonder how brushing out more involved woodwork will work. The can says no thinning is necessary, I kept a can of water just to dip the brush once in while the same as I used to keep some spirits near the oil paint. All in all I was pleased and so was the home owner. Thanks for the help. pd


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Nice stuff, but kinda "soft" with a longer set-up time. Did some kitchen cabinets in black, (sprayed), and they came out decent. Would I want it in my house on my cabs? Nope. But this was an insurance resto job so I had to stay in the budget.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

one more comment......high dollar paint, opened and poured into another can.....blop, blop, blop.....Should you have to run for a strainer on whitePro Classic??? I get tired of the LACK or quality control which seems to be a regular thing the last few years. pd


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

We just did a kitchen with Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. Lots of working time and nice to work with. Its pricy but worth it. I have a review on the blog.


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