# SW Pro-Industrial Multi-Surface Acrylic



## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

Great product, interior/exterior, used it on some entrance doors that were factory coated. Sanded with orbital, 120 grit, and painted. It smells like very strong, like ammonia. It dries fast and looks and feels like oil. Very durable. First time we have used it.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

What was your application method. 



> Pro Industrial™ Multi-Surface Acrylic is specifically engineered to provide high hide and good stain resistance. This interior/exterior, self-priming, waterborne gloss acrylic* can be applied to marginally clean surfaces*, making it ideal for use on walls and ceilings found in warehouses, manufacturing structures, schools, hospitals, hotels, commercial buildings and industrial sites, where a thorough cleaning is impractical.


Gotta love that bit, I guess SW has made a paint that can adhere to dirt and the substrate. Maybe the ammonia smell is the paint cleaning it for you. :jester:


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> What was your application method.
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta love that bit, I guess SW has made a paint that can adhere to dirt and the substrate. Maybe the ammonia smell is the paint cleaning it for you. :jester:


Ammonia smell doesn't contribute to adhesion. Nice idea, a self cleaning paint.

What's probably doing it is SW put in a strong wetting agent that wets out over oily substrates. They're usually fluorosurfactants, used in floor waxes to wet out over previously waxed surfaces. Why don't more paint makers use them, you ask? They're very expensive. You use very little, but they cost a lot, and they tend to cause foam. Not easy to formulate, real costly, but they do a job like no other surfactant.


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

Application was cut and roll. The product sits on the shelf at $86 per gallon. Somehow my rep got it all the way down to $28 for me.


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## HollisPainting (Oct 15, 2013)

I ask this question elsewhere but it might get a better view here. I'm trying to spray this stuff with my HVLP 
It's drying to sand on the way out of the gun. (or I hold it so close I'm getting runs) 
Can it not be sprayed with HVLP? 
There are guidelines for airless tip size in the specs but nothing on HVLP at all. 

Even when I get it to go on wet, if I need to move off 90° to the surface to hit a profile the long edge of the fan lands dry. 
Help?


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## HollisPainting (Oct 15, 2013)

Also it does in fact get foamy when I'm cleaning the gun


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

HollisPainting said:


> I ask this question elsewhere but it might get a better view here. I'm trying to spray this stuff with my HVLP
> It's drying to sand on the way out of the gun. (or I hold it so close I'm getting runs)
> Can it not be sprayed with HVLP?
> There are guidelines for airless tip size in the specs but nothing on HVLP at all.
> ...



Have you tried to thin it. The problem is the paint already dries super fast. So an hvlp has air pushing the paint, the paint does not have a chance. Your only way is to thin the product out so it has more wet time before it starts to dry. I did a whole house in this product. It was an old heritage home. It turned out very nice. Here are some picks of the product.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

*Spraying Sherwin Williams Multi-Surface Acrylic via Turbine HVLP*



HollisPainting said:


> I ask this question elsewhere but it might get a better view here. I'm trying to spray this stuff with my HVLP
> It's drying to sand on the way out of the gun. (or I hold it so close I'm getting runs)
> Can it not be sprayed with HVLP?
> There are guidelines for airless tip size in the specs but nothing on HVLP at all.
> ...


I posted the quote below last week about spraying PPG's Breakthrough via turbine. Basically, using longer hose lengths, keeping your turbine outside, and possibly the addition of retarders will all help with dry-spray issues... 

_
A good general rule on hose length for turbines is you can typically use up to twice the length of hose that came with the unit. Mine came with a 15' hose, so I can go up to 30' and still have the unit function properly. Longer hose will help, and try to set up your unit outside where it's taking in cooler air, (at least in the winter months)._

You can also use retarders, (glycol ethers, butyl cellosolve, etc), provided it's within PPG's specs.


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## canopainting (Feb 12, 2013)

I use SW MSA , I love it, it dries fast and has good wetting properties. I put extender in it once but it ruined the sheen, it looked more muddled and uneven.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I was going to use SW Multi Surface Acrylic on some entry doors, but neither of my local stores carries the deep base in gloss that would be necessary to successfully add the colorants used to make color 6321. Here is a picture of a door (I did not paint) done in 6321.







Instead, I went with SW Pro Industrial Acrylic DTM, as my local store has it in the base which allows for this color. Unfortunately, I only got the doors prepped, masked, and sprayed with a coat of SW Extreme Bond Primer tinted with P3 gray today, as rain was coming in. Monday I'll have them finished.


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## HollisPainting (Oct 15, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> HollisPainting said:
> 
> 
> > _
> ...


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## chaiteachaitea (Jan 11, 2015)

*Psi*

What air PSI do you have coming out at the cap?
What is your fluid pressure and tip size?



HollisPainting said:


> I ask this question elsewhere but it might get a better view here. I'm trying to spray this stuff with my HVLP
> It's drying to sand on the way out of the gun. (or I hold it so close I'm getting runs)
> Can it not be sprayed with HVLP?
> There are guidelines for airless tip size in the specs but nothing on HVLP at all.
> ...


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## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

One Coat Coverage said:


> Application was cut and roll. The product sits on the shelf at $86 per gallon. Somehow my rep got it all the way down to $28 for me.



That's not a bad price . . . my SW guy says it costs around $23. Amazing how high their list prices are. Reminds me of a jewelry store: 40% OFF come & get it! . . . and we will still make a boatload off ya


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

chaiteachaitea said:


> What air PSI do you have coming out at the cap?
> What is your fluid pressure and tip size?


Just a heads up. This thread was started in 2011. The most recent post, prior to the last two that were posted today, was over a year ago. So you may not get a response to your question.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

I did my kitchen cabinets at home with it last November, before that they were stained and varnished a dark brown (most likely lacquer). I sanded them down, cleaned with mineral spirits, washed and rinsed with tsp, re-sanded, primed with cover stain, and then three finish coats. They came out great and 8 months later still look like the day I did them. If something gets on them, I just wet a handi-wipe and they clean up like nobody's business! I just wish they has a satin or semi as the sheen is more dull than I prefer.


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