# water-based for LVLP sprayer



## Justtegit (May 19, 2010)

I just completed a coffered ceiling and ordinarily would do all the trim with a brush - but this is ALOT of trim and I think a spray finish would be nicer.

I don't own an airless (i guess I could rent one) but I do own an LVLP and compressor. Tip size is 1.4mm 

What water-based paint or laquer (and maybe even a primer, although I'll probably finishing priming by hand) with a semi-gloss finish (in white)? Also, how much Floetrol, etc... thanks


And yes - this IS in a bathroom, but NO that molding is not MDF - it is all pine and exterior glue plywood.


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

Ask your paint rep what he recommends.

I'd go airless too


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

Yeah, airless no doubt... but he said he didn't have one. He could rent one I suppose...


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Do you always do the painting on your carpenter work? Or just on this job?
I too would use an airless. The problem with the cup and compressor is how much you will need to thin the material. 

I thought I hit send when I posted this before. (better check my toothpaste)


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

I agree, I think your money would be well spent on renting an airless for the day. :thumbup:


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

If you have preprimed mdf and unprimed mixed I don't think I would assume that just priming pine would be sufficient. There's a pretty good chance that the paint will hold a different sheen on different primers; made even more noticeable by the ceiling position of the work. It would take an hour to prime all of it with an airless. Then sand, dust and spray two top coats latex enamel.


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

Metro M & L said:


> If you have preprimed mdf and unprimed mixed I don't think I would assume that just priming pine would be sufficient. There's a pretty good chance that the paint will hold a different sheen on different primers; made even more noticeable by the ceiling position of the work. It would take an hour to prime all of it with an airless. Then sand, dust and spray two top coats latex enamel.



Agreed. shoot primer over all of it, save yourself the headache :thumbsup:


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

BC_Painter said:


> Agreed. shoot primer over all of it, save yourself the headache :thumbsup:


I thought this was a given.


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

Justtegit said:


> What water-based paint or laquer (and maybe even a primer, although I'll probably finishing priming by hand)


Not necessarily a given


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

BC_Painter said:


> Not necessarily a given


I missed that. 

Yes I would prime all the woodwork to avoid possible flashing problems.


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

I would putty before I primed


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## Justtegit (May 19, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. It seems the consensus is to go with airless - but I must say I am more inclined to try and find a solution that I can use my LVLP with. This is not just to avoid rental fees - but more because I am comfortable using my LVLP - the only airless I have ever used is a cheapo wagner.

I was thinking about using Sherwin Williams KEM-Aqua Pigmented Lacquer and the primer to go with it. Any thoughts?


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

JHill said:


> I would putty before I primed


You don't use spackle?


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

RPS said:


> You don't use spackle?


No, I use painters putty. But I feel spackle should be primed over also.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Justtegit said:


> Thanks for the replies. It seems the consensus is to go with airless - but I must say I am more inclined to try and find a solution that I can use my LVLP with. This is not just to avoid rental fees - but more because I am comfortable using my LVLP - the only airless I have ever used is a cheapo wagner.
> 
> I was thinking about using Sherwin Williams KEM-Aqua Pigmented Lacquer and the primer to go with it. Any thoughts?


You may want to look at the KEM-Aqua spec page to see how it handles humidity/moisture situations. You've got quite a bit of coffered ceiling and joints for any moisture in the air to go and "sit". It will take it's toll on miter joints and caulking with the expansion/contraction. Seen it happen.

The general consensus is to use an airless and I would have to agree. You'll have a better, consistent coverage using the airless and the ease of it will be worth any rental costs. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's how it seems to go lately when asked advice here.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Everyone above is correct IMHO. LVLP, HVLP, etc are fine for smaller areas, shop environment, but with the overlaps and large size of the work, airless is the way to go. LVLP will not keep a wet edge with its thinner coats like an airless will.

Or get an AAA. Then you can have the best of both worlds.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I dont know if I agree with the airless. Sure, go airless if you have experience with one, the OP has little to none. Could turn out to be a disaster for him. I see all the spots for possible runs/sags there. He could get a good finish with a cup gun. Might take longer, and a bit more fiddling around, but if its in his comfort zone I say go for it.


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## WiseGuys Painting (Feb 22, 2010)

get an airless. get some laquer undercoater. thin 10 % with laquer thinner. caulk, putty, get a small tip 311, spray, keep your hand movin dude,no abrupt start/stops, this part should be easy ,now for the hard part. the finish is where you will get runs if you dont know how to spray. i would suggest three light coats mabye even four light coats. it looks like you put alot of time into this woodwork and sometimes it is alot cheaper to hire out a painter than to get in over your head and have to pay someone to redo it. for example i can do carpetry work if i need to, but one look at the plans for this ceiling and id call one of my carpenter buddies. good luck and post finished pics plz.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

WiseGuys Painting said:


> get an airless. get some laquer undercoater. thin 10 % with laquer thinner. caulk, putty, get a small tip 311, spray, keep your hand movin dude,no abrupt start/stops, this part should be easy ,now for the hard part. the finish is where you will get runs if you dont know how to spray. i would suggest three light coats mabye even four light coats. it looks like you put alot of time into this woodwork and sometimes it is alot cheaper to hire out a painter than to get in over your head and have to pay someone to redo it. for example i can do carpetry work if i need to, but one look at the plans for this ceiling and id call one of my carpenter buddies. good luck and post finished pics plz.


I wouldn't use a lacquer undercoater in a room that small without an explosion proof fan in the window. Unless you like really intense sunburns.


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## jimbeam58 (Apr 18, 2010)

Personally I would roll the raw wood with a good primer so that all the pores of the wood are covered and then shoot primer with a airless to cover the grain of the wood as much as possible so that is looks like a smooth finish from the ground when you add your paint. ( Also it would look real nice to stain the ply wood dark and lacquer it, then paint the molding with an oil based white, depending on the color of the walls).:thumbup:


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## i painter (Mar 14, 2010)

WiseGuys Painting said:


> get an airless. get some laquer undercoater. thin 10 % with laquer thinner.


I always thought running laquer based through a latex system = bad and vice versa. More than likely you'll be buying, at the very least, a new hose and filters if not having it repacked. If you're going airless, use latex. If you use laquer undercoater (which I prefer for trim and doors etc) go lvlp, hvlp or aaa. Then top with a pigmented shellac.



DeanV said:


> Everyone above is correct IMHO. LVLP, HVLP, etc are fine for smaller areas, shop environment, but with the overlaps and large size of the work,airless is the way to go.* LVLP will not keep a wet edge with its thinner coats like an airless will.*


You must be doing it wrong or maybe thinning it too much. Never had a problem with coffers, floor to ceiling mantel systems or wainscoting.


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