# Blending Knockdown Texture



## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

So I'm installing drywall for some water damaged walls, one room is just a part of the ceiling and the other is ceiling and wall all in knockdown. In the picture provided below you can see my butt joints go into the previously textured walls. 

My question is, should I wet sand those joints with a sponge to keep that edge down? 

I'm going to be shooting texture then knocking it down, is there any special techniques to blend those butt joints in? Or just let the knife ride over it?

Thanks in advance!


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

Picture


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Yes wet sand. How about a close up pic of texture so i can give you advice?


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

I can provide one in the morning. It's a heavy orange peel that's been knocked down, the spots average 1-1.5" in size. I'll be able to match it easily, I'm just wondering about keeping those butts low and smooth so the new texture is same thickness


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I've had good luck with blending texture patches by spraying a super fine (as fine as you can possibly get) coat of texture on the new stuff. Let dry for a bit, then do your knockdown on top of that. I go over about a foot or so on the old texture, then wipe a couple inches of the edges of the new stuff while wet. Helps blend it in.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

So I should bring out those butt joints 8-10" onto the old texture with the second and third coat then wet sand that edge 4-6" towards the new drywall? I've thought about just skim coating the whole thing then wet sand it but I want to work smarter not harder


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

ThreeSistersPainting said:


> So I should bring out those butt joints 8-10" onto the old texture with the second and third coat then wet sand that edge 4-6" towards the new drywall? I've thought about just skim coating the whole thing then wet sand it but I want to work smarter not harder


I used to do a lot of warranty work that required matching machined textures. The texture match wasn't as much of a problem as getting the transition seam flat and on the same plain as the existing texture before spraying. Sometimes this required sanding. A light feathering with a damp cloth was required after spraying, but not always. I found that feathering the spray pattern into the existing texture provided a decent look. But in your case, it might be better to just float the existing textured walls and square up with a similar texture.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

^^exactly what I'm talking about. Here is a close up of the butt joint. I'm putting the second coats on tomorrow and bringing it out wider


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

definitely float it out a little further. I wipe the edges with a wet sponge while the mud is still wet too. Then when its dry, sponge the hell out of it, even using a scruffy pad where it meets the old texture. Then, like I said, if you lay down some ultra fine texture as a primer, it helps the new and old blend together. Then, spray the knockdown on that, and feather it out a little more.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

So I got the final coat on the joints. I wet sanded everything before I finished them. Before I texture tomorrow I'm looking to wet sand all joints joining the old drywall to help blend in the new knockdown. Any other tips before I shoot some mud on the walls?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Easy money. Who did your joint work? seems like they know well enough to make it work. 

Solution: Just float it out more to the left and right. Use your drywall blade to check for flatness/level. If there's a rocking motion or what not, just fill it in with compound and use your knife to level it. 
Personally, I'd go about 6 inches to foot (12") into the old texture, fade the edges with a damp sponge prior to drying, spray texture, prime/paint, done. 

Looking at your pictures a little closer, seems like your tape was done pretty decently. Could be floated out more on both sides. Typical is 6 inch, both sides, first coat and then 12 to 14 inch past the 6 inch line, again on both sides.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

I am a one man show so all the work is done by me. Well I textured it today and super pleased with the consistency of everything. Knockdown matches well and should have the primer on by tonight.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Very nice job!

How long did you have to wait to knock down and did you use all purpose JC?


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

Used USG All Purpose Lite pre mixed. I added just enough water to get it through the hopper. I waited till the globs lost there gloss, 15 minutes or so.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

Just wrapped it up this morning, paints a little wet still but overall it looks great. Thanks for all those who helped out!


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Prime with flat after you float and dry ..texture ..
Works every time .


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