# High Build Drywall Primer



## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

Looking for opinions on high build primers...

I have an upcoming job in a home approx. 35 years old. The walls to be painted have obvious brush strokes and heavy roller stipple from previous painting. Some areas won't look right without a full skim coat, BUT client is not interested in that level of attention.

What brand/type of high build primer can help to at least minimize these surface imperfections. Roller nap length, number of coats, sanding grit, etc.?


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

sanders to knock down the stipple would be the best. Second would be rescue primers like PrimeRx from SW, maddog, or Peelbond. HiBuild drywall primers are new construction raw drywall primers to help bring drywall up to a level 5 before painting.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Are you sure the HO is even interested in ANY extra effort/expense to alter the existing imperfections? I sometimes have to force myself to realize that not everyone is into trying to get it right like I am. Maybe just quote em' a new paint job and call it good.


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

RH said:


> Are you sure the HO is even interested in ANY extra effort/expense to alter the existing imperfections? I sometimes have to force myself to realize that not everyone is into trying to get it right like I am. Maybe just quote em' a new paint job and call it good.




Good question and I struggle with this a lot myself. I would like everything to look "better than budget", but can't go broke chasing rainbows.

These are clients that I've known since grade school and simply want a fresh look and color change. They are good with something like high build that may minimize the imperfections without busting the budget with heroic efforts. I've used high build on new Drywall and on exterior applications--just fishing around to see if any products would help here. Flat finish coats also hide a lot of previous sins. 


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I run into this situation quite often as a retailer. Usually a homeowner that isn't happy with the stipple their painter made. I usually start with "hire a good painter next time." Then tell them to just sand the crap out of it, get it good and clean, and put on another coat of GOOD paint with a GOOD roller cover. Usually cures the problem unless it has gone past orange peel straight to ugly fruit peel. Then you really need to skim coat it. Probably just as easy as sanding it at that point. And tell them DO NOT USE SATIN NO MATTER WHAT THE MORON AT HOME DEPOT,LOWE'S,MENARDS,SW TELLS THEM. A PREMIUM eggshell! Dang I'm tired of cheap satin paints being used on everything! It's all anyone uses around here because the "sales" people are clueless at all the box stores.


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Let us know how that works out if you decide to do it. Interested parties would like to know.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

The lower the sheen the less that stands out.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

PACman said:


> I run into this situation quite often as a retailer. Usually a homeowner that isn't happy with the stipple their painter made. I usually start with "hire a good painter next time." Then tell them to just sand the crap out of it, get it good and clean, and put on another coat of GOOD paint with a GOOD roller cover. Usually cures the problem unless it has gone past orange peel straight to ugly fruit peel. Then you really need to skim coat it. Probably just as easy as sanding it at that point. And tell them DO NOT USE SATIN NO MATTER WHAT THE MORON AT HOME DEPOT,LOWE'S,MENARDS,SW TELLS THEM. A PREMIUM eggshell! Dang I'm tired of cheap satin paints being used on everything! It's all anyone uses around here because the "sales" people are clueless at all the box stores.


So what you are saying is Behr sucks?
Totally agree with you if that is what you are saying. The problem I have with Behr, is hack painters try to put it on way to thick to make it cover in one coat. The paint drys to this weird wrinkly orangepeely crappy film, can't get rid of it.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Why not just the give HO a price for just painting it, and mention a few things you can do if they want to spend the money on it?


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

power sand the walls and add a bit on labour


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## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

I've had good luck with BM Ultra Spec High Build Primer (580 series) . . . if memory serves, it's rather affordable ($15, possibly lower). That being said, high builds tend to thrive when you spray them to achieve a good film build (without the orange peel texture). Not sure how you plan to apply . . .


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

It's tough sometimes to determine a customers expectations. Sometimes you can just read the customer and know what they want, sometimes you've gotta ask. It's all about changing gears.

About a month ago, I worked for two couples back to back who were completely different in terms of expectations. The first place was plaster board and the walls were in terrible shape. They just wanted a freshening up, fill the nail holes, slap two coats on job. The next couple were the most finicky I've worked for in years. One end of the spectrum to the other.

It's never easy.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

MikeCalifornia said:


> So what you are saying is Behr sucks?
> Totally agree with you if that is what you are saying. The problem I have with Behr, is hack painters try to put it on way to thick to make it cover in one coat. The paint drys to this weird wrinkly orangepeely crappy film, can't get rid of it.


Behr is usually used by people (painters included) that are in a hurry for some reason to get the job done, which means they usually just roll the walls like they have to finish before they get sex or something. Rolling that paint too fast is a recipe for a nasty rough texture.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> sanders to knock down the stipple would be the best. Second would be rescue primers like PrimeRx from SW, maddog, or Peelbond. HiBuild drywall primers are new construction raw drywall primers to help bring drywall up to a level 5 before painting.


You are partially right. I like BM hi build, but the high build primer is not the main component used to level out smoothwall on level 5. The first step there is sprayed on leveler, like beadex, a sprayable mud that sands easy or easier than topping mud.

I wouldn't use the beadex style product, but a sprayed on high build primer would be much more desirable and reasonably priced step compared to sanding entire walls down to a still very imperfect surface..


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

This will be a simple brush and roll job. Just wondering if there's any benefit to brushing/rolling a high build primer between prep and top coats. I don't mind experimenting on a job like this. 


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## getrex (Feb 13, 2017)

Try it and see. Sand it good, prime, and then lick the wall for good luck.


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## kentdalimp (Aug 15, 2013)

We use a tool like this one when we strip Wallpaper and don't want to scrape off all of the Glue. Get the right grit Paper and push hard and you should make a noticeable difference. Only thing is your forearms will get a workout. Eat your spinach beforehand!

If you are going to apply a surfacer, I would definitely sand as much as you can first.


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