# Furniture/Cabinet Paint Suggestion



## tidenumone (Sep 11, 2012)

Hello,

I am a part-time general handyman. I have a new job building an office desk and refacing the kitchen cabinets (two separate projects not located in the same room).

My questions are:
1.	What type of paint should I use for both? I normally use Benjamin Moore for my projects and was looking at the Advance or Impervo. Also considering the INSL-X cabinet Coat. Can I use the same paint for both projects?
2.	Can I spray either (or both) with an airless spray gun using a 210 or 310 tip?

Thank you


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## Alabama Painter (Sep 4, 2012)

Love the Impervo.Not familiar w/ the INSL-X cabinet Coat. Yes the 3/10 or 3/11 is what you need. The 2 just dont have enough width.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I prefer waterborne, so Cabinet coat is my advice out of those 3 choices. SI is great too, but stinks for days. Advance has a bit of a learning curve when spraying so keep that in mind, or you will be sanding sags for longer than you spray. California's Ultraplate is a good choice, as is PPG's Breakthrough.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I have found SW's Pro Classic Acrylic Alkyd to be easier to work with than Advance and it gives a wonderful finish. I typically spray it through a .010 -.012 FF tip, width depending on what I'm finishing.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

mpminter said:


> I have found SW's Pro Classic Acrylic Alkyd to be easier to work with than Advance and it gives a wonderful finish. I typically spray it through a .010 -.012 FF tip, width depending on what I'm finishing.


What primer are u using for cabinets my friend?


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## dpeters (Jul 18, 2012)

mpminter said:


> I have found SW's Pro Classic Acrylic Alkyd to be easier to work with than Advance and it gives a wonderful finish. I typically spray it through a .010 -.012 FF tip, width depending on what I'm finishing.


I have always found the Hybrid Alkyd a little sketchy for finish consistency. Sometimes it flows well and other times not so much. My favorite cabinet system is to prime twice with SW White lacquer undercoater (builds fabulously and sands like glass) and then spray two coats of the SW ProClasssic waterborne. It can be a little slow to dry to the full finish hardness, but once it does it is a fabulous product. The only draw back for me is the inability to get the darker tints in the waterborne Pro Classic.


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## tidenumone (Sep 11, 2012)

Thank you all for the help so far....
to answer the one question - I am looking at using BIN as the primer since some of the work will be new wood and we live Fl.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

BIN is good for sealing tannins but it is a hard finish and you take the chance of it chipping. A white lacquer will give you a baby smooth finish after sanding. PPG' s Breakthrough will lay out smooth and slick with brush, roller, or sprayer. And it dries in 15-20min so you can double coat very quickly.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

For cabinets, I would strongly recommend SW Kem Aqua waterborne lacquer. It sprays well (no brushing), dries in 30 min. or less, and can be sanded and recoated same day. The best part about it is the tough, hard, non-blocking finish. It feels harder and more durable than oil based enamel. It cures rapidly and seems to reach full hardness in about a day. 
For a primer/surfacer, SW Kem Aqua plus sands to a powder after less than 30 mins dry time. The older Kem Aqua is much harder to sand. So is BIN. The topcoat Kem Aqua Plus is slower drying than Kem Aqua, and slower curing, but similar.
I either use AAA, or a compliant gun and reduce to 45 sec. in a Ford 4 cup. HVLP won't atomize we'll enough...but waterborne lacquer sprays much better than paint. I have no connection with SW...I just think this is a great product. Keep a close watch on thickness, though, and apply a wet coat and no more, to avoid sags.


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## dpeters (Jul 18, 2012)

more_prep said:


> For cabinets, I would strongly recommend SW Kem Aqua waterborne lacquer. It sprays well (no brushing), dries in 30 min. or less, and can be sanded and recoated same day. The best part about it is the tough, hard, non-blocking finish. It feels harder and more durable than oil based enamel. It cures rapidly and seems to reach full hardness in about a day.
> For a primer/surfacer, SW Kem Aqua plus sands to a powder after less than 30 mins dry time. The older Kem Aqua is much harder to sand. So is BIN. The topcoat Kem Aqua Plus is slower drying than Kem Aqua, and slower curing, but similar.
> I either use AAA, or a compliant gun and reduce to 45 sec. in a Ford 4 cup. HVLP won't atomize we'll enough...but waterborne lacquer sprays much better than paint. I have no connection with SW...I just think this is a great product. Keep a close watch on thickness, though, and apply a wet coat and no more, to avoid sags.


I would agree with all this and i would add nothing to this finish system except to say that it is only recommended for new/raw wood. Kem Aqua Plus is not intended for a refinishing setting. Do not spend the money on their surfacer if you use Kem Aqua, it sands horribly. The Kem Aqua Plus sands well and finishes superbly. The finish hardness IMO continues to build and the pinhole bubbles and will erase completely after a week of cure time. I too spray with a AAA system (Titan 440 Multifinish) and spray mostly with 311 or 312 tips. Anything finer than that get a little frustrating with the waterborne. It atomizes well and flows longer than you want it too. It will run on you and you are better off doing a tack coat and two or three light coats to achieve optimum film build. You cannot use the waterborne lacquers (any of them) with same spray techniques as the old nitro lacquer.


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## davedrew (Mar 8, 2011)

I learned a couple good tips that worked great ...

Cleared out my garage and soaked the floor with water. Sprayed the cabinets and doors one at a time outside with a coat of flat latex and quickly moved them into the garage to dry.

Then, sprayed a coat of lacquer following the same steps.

They turned out like glass.

The water on the floor sucks all the dust out of the air. 

3/10 is good for lacquer. I like to use 3/15 with latex.

My rule of thumb is always go with the *top of the line *paint in whatever brand you use.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Finn said:


> What primer are u using for cabinets my friend?


My favorite primer for this type of high end finish is BM enamel underbody. It's an oil based product that goes on smooth and sands to a nice powder.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Yup, BM enamel underbody is the gold standard (oil base).
If you want faster dry times and a waterborne, SW Kem Aqua Plus surfacer, Becker Acroma Akvasurf, and ML Campbell Aqualente surfacer sand just as well, and spray well. SW Premium Wall and Wood primer sands great, and C2 makes Sandable Acrylic Primer. Zinsser Smart Prime also sands well. Primecoat2 not as easy to sand, but cheap...

Sand with 400 to not see the scratches...320 is too coarse...


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=MLC&doctype=PDS&prodno=035777045299&lang=2


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=MLC&doctype=PDS&prodno=035777045299&lang=2

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=MLC&doctype=PDS&prodno=744815028612&lang=2


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

davedrew said:


> I learned a couple good tips that worked great ...
> 
> Cleared out my garage and soaked the floor with water. Sprayed the cabinets and doors one at a time outside with a coat of flat latex and quickly moved them into the garage to dry.
> 
> ...


Flat latex as a primer ? 
Are these new or old cabinets ? 
I love the water idea , now are you also keeping the floor wet during the process? Like between stages prime coat , let dry sand re wet the floor etc . I also heard like a kiddy pool works too.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

mpminter said:


> I have found SW's Pro Classic Acrylic Alkyd to be easier to work with than Advance and it gives a wonderful finish. I typically spray it through a .010 -.012 FF tip, width depending on what I'm finishing.


Just finished the cabinet doors with this using pro shot fine finish. Pretty darn awesome looking i will post pics wheni get the hardware back on


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## tidenumone (Sep 11, 2012)

Hello – thank you all again for such great help & information.

To answer the last question – the cabinet doors & office work will be new doors that I will build with the current boxes. I am also in the process of restoring an amour (same client) that is old wood.

I have finished all the prep & prime on the Amour (primed with BIN) and ready to paint this weekend. Went to HD to get the tip…and next issue:

1)	The Graco RAC X tip guard will not fit on my Wagner gun – but the 311 tip will fit in the current tip guard I have. Will this work? Why does the tip have to be with their tip guard?
2)	Noticed at Northerntool today they have a Wagner HVLP (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308481_200308481) system for $90.00, should I just give up trying to use my ProCoat and go with the HVLP system? I only do this part-time/weekend, so I am trying not to spend a lot….but I also want to ensure I give the customer a good product.

Thank you all again…
:thumbup:


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

No cheap hvlp will have enough pressure at the cap to atomize pigmented waterbornes, unless you thin them like crazy...but you really can't thin more than 10 to 15% without affecting the results. You would need a 4-5 stage hvlp turbine, which might not even work that well...


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

more_prep said:


> No cheap hvlp will have enough pressure at the cap to atomize pigmented waterbornes, unless you thin them like crazy...but you really can't thin more than 10 to 15% without affecting the results. You would need a 4-5 stage hvlp turbine, which might not even work that well...


heating the WB lacquer or paint is a way to thin the product without adding water. it's also wise to add a glycol ether retardant.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Finn said:


> Just finished the cabinet doors with this using pro shot fine finish. Pretty darn awesome looking i will post pics wheni get the hardware back on


 Finn do you stand on the Word?:notworthy:


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Very true. Viscosity varies strongly with temperature. I've experimented with heating as high as 95 F. Even built a temperature controlled pot for it. Problem was the flow rate was low enough that it cooled in the hose, before leaving the gun...

Has heating worked for you?


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