# Sealing rust



## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

I don't know how well the rust will show on the pics but here are a few shots of the rusting I am dealing with.Its at the very bottom of the panels looking for a few tips as to what to use. Maybe a rust inhibitor or a DTM with blocking properties? Or both? I have used Navel gel in the past to treat rust but it never last as long as I would like, Thanks.


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## PP&C Services (May 10, 2013)

We use Corroseal on all the barges my company paints. It turns the rust into magnatite. If the rust isn't so bad that it leaves a mounded area that can be seen after painting. If a very smooth finish has to be obtained, we usually blast the worst white, and apply the Corroseal to the rest. Even after years in water, the magnitite is still stable.


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## clermontpainting (Feb 25, 2013)

*rusty metal*

devoe dev-shield rust penetrating metal primer.


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## Dkon7 (Jan 23, 2013)

Your right, the pic makes it a little difficult to tell but it looks like minor surface rust and I'm betting the metal is prefinished.

Since Im a SW guy I'd spec:
1-Clean the entire surface to be recoated using water based cleaners (simple green, krud kutter, tsp)
2-Hand &/or mechanical tooling to clean up the rust and rust stains
3-ProCryl primer on the rust
3-BondPlex finish.

Step 1&2 should require no explanation.
3-Procryl is a cross linking water based rust inhibitive primer that should adhere very well to prefinished surfaces or sound painted finishes. Apply at 5-10 mils wet.
4-BondPlex is an adhesion promoting water based coating made for direct application to prefinished metal siding. It bites tight and lasts. Apply at 5-10 mils wet.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Dkon7 said:


> Your right, the pic makes it a little difficult to tell but it looks like minor surface rust and I'm betting the metal is prefinished.
> 
> Since Im a SW guy I'd spec:
> 1-Clean the entire surface to be recoated using water based cleaners (simple green, krud kutter, tsp)
> ...


Sort of side tracked, but as a SW guy, what is your assessment of Bonding Primer with a top coat of SherCryl on what could possibly be a Kynar finish?


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## Dkon7 (Jan 23, 2013)

CApainter said:


> Sort of side tracked, but as a SW guy, what is your assessment of Bonding Primer with a top coat of SherCryl on what could possibly be a Kynar finish?


DTM Bonding Primer and DTM Acrylic or Shercryl has always been a sound 'go to spec' whenever painting prefinished metal. However DTM Bonding Primer requires a topcoat where Bondplex does not. If your not dealing with rust, save yourself a step and use Bondplex. However if you have a corrosion issue, Bondplex alone wont do it. DTM Bonding Primer is corrosion resistant and does a good job, but ProCryl is a newer generation primer and does it better. 

Hope this helps.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I've always been told by my SW guys to us osimo first on rust when using pro kril or bond plex. I assumed they weren't confident of the latex primer dealing with the rust. Is this not the case?


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## 1camper (Feb 17, 2013)

Rust never sleeps. Once it has started you can only slow it down. Call me old school but I would never use a waterbased rust primer. You have to convert the oxidizing process with an acid..ospho or a self etching acid primer would be my choice always on metal. Epoxies would also be a good choice just more expensive, harder to use and much harder to sand if that becomes necessary. They are a grade better because the stick on a molecular level and seal out oxygen to stop the oxidizing process.

As to the OP, I would brush an oxalic acid on the orange to dissolve the rust color when I washed it to prep for paint. If you aren't washing, I guess wire/stripping wheel the rust to knock off the loose stuff and self etch/ epoxy the whole wall prior to topcoating.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

For rust that bad I would convert it. Especially since it is somewhat localized.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Thanks for all the input as to what is used around the country. I will up date with some finish pics, I am starting the project this week.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Jasco prep n prime is a great rust converter. You have to keep it off your skin or it will burn, airless or hudson it on, wait overnight, then prime and paint as normal.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Jasco prep n prime is a great rust converter. You have to keep it off your skin or it will burn, airless or hudson it on, wait overnight, then prime and paint as normal.


Feel the burn! 

You can put that through a pump? I was to scared to.

...


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

I don't know what Sw uses on their metal surfaces, door frames,sign,etc.on their premises but it don't seem to last long.It look like a big rust bucket.Makes me think theres got to be a better product out there.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Feel the burn!
> 
> You can put that through a pump? I was to scared to.
> 
> ...


Usually its small stuff, but we sold some for a big hanger a few years back, worked really well, but the spray man got burned, did not cover head and neck.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Good thread.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

I was sold on Corrverter, another product in the family of Corroseal, a couple of years ago. It's hit or miss. If the application is on a horizontal, vertical or upside down surface that will make a difference. The environmental conditions affect things too, both during the time of application and after the work is done. 

Someone on here that does little else besides industrial stuff, I think, recommended Penetrol. In all honesty I've been happier with the results of that plus prime and paint than anything else. But nothing is going to stop the rust in some locations. i.e., the coast with salt air from the ocean and the north or mountain areas where roads are covered in the stuff used to keep roads safe. (Never buy a used car that spent it's life in those areas.) 

Here is a link with some detailed testing. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=KqHW52iPfxHnUiAB-3wODg&bvm=bv.47244034,d.dmQ It has USMC at the end of it, so I don't know if that means it is military tested or if that's a different organization with the same letters. 

If you have something worth restoring, a few folks have said good things about this. Never heard anything bad about it.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Jasco prep n prime is a great rust converter. You have to keep it off your skin or it will burn, airless or hudson it on, wait overnight, then prime and paint as normal.


Not having good results with this product. Preped the rust by sanding and or wire brush I mixed it 3-1 with water for the first application it did convert some but a lot remained. So I went with full strength same thing little to no conversion.

Pentroll here I come....


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

PP&C Services said:


> We use Corroseal on all the barges my company paints. It turns the rust into magnatite. If the rust isn't so bad that it leaves a mounded area that can be seen after painting. If a very smooth finish has to be obtained, we usually blast the worst white, and apply the Corroseal to the rest. Even after years in water, the magnitite is still stable.


Corroseal would be nice to try but HD is the only place I found it. Get this: They will only ship to your home not the store, your office or place of business for haz mat reasons.. $23 bucks to ship a quart the cost $22... The only way to get it is if the store carries it....WTF? So I call the store manager see if he can order it nope...


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## [eric] (May 24, 2010)

*More Ideas*

Several products targeted at the automotive and industrial market:

Rust Bullet

Chassis Saver

Picklex 20

POR 15

Evapo-Rust

Lots of info via a Google search on each one.

-- Eric


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Always best to just sand/grind the rust off. The converters are usually a temp fix. I know sometimes the surface isn't worth the money for the labor.

...


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Just a quick update with a few pics...

One of the rust we are dealing with..



One of the rust sanded and converted with penatrol...







I will update in a few days with some finish pics...


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## Paper & Popcorn Pro (Jun 14, 2013)

I've always had great luck with Rustoleum, meaning one application.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Paper & Popcorn Pro said:


> I've always had great luck with Rustoleum, meaning one application.


Any industrial oil finish holds the rust off of metal just as well and as long as any primer/finish combo will.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Oden said:


> Any industrial oil finish holds the rust off of metal just as well and as long as any primer/finish combo will.


Have you ever seen paint specs that do not recommend a primer?

....


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Have you ever seen paint specs that do not recommend a primer?
> 
> ....


Not that I can recall. That said, I painted enuff exterior metal by now and have seen it years later and it's condition years later to come to a conclusion that any good industrial oil will hold up as good as any primer/finish combo is all. I've also had cause to see some work that was done as specked, I mean to the tee, not do any better at all.


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

This is our receiving dock, diamond plate steel. Just had the 2x8 supports replaced so were now coating the plates. Black areas are done with Krylon rust converter spray can. Turns the surface black within minutes, dries in about 3 hours. The clear coated side is done with Krud Kutter rust converter. Takes 24 hours to dry , water based brush on (containing phosphoric acid), then sweep up any loose residue remaining. Wanted to try the 2 different types and see any differences. Could somewhat smell the Krud Kutter, the Krylon needs ventilation and air flow. If I had more of an area I could have tried the rustoleum and permatex versions but oh well.

























Edit: Oh yea, the Krud Kutter actually cut through the krylon and wiped it away. Both 24 hour dried and 20 minute. You can see the brush strokes beside Krud kutter bottle. Right is newly sprayed, left is old.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

The first coat on the upper metal..


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

Update, Monday AM. The Krylon turned the whole surface black. The Krud Kutter only turned the rusted spots and left the painted areas alone.


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

Prime coat down. Used Everlife Urethane red primer. I like the red shade on the floor. May do that in my basement when the chance arrives.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> Good thread.


 Yeah a little rusty but good thread otherwise!:yes:


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

I hear a lot about stopping rust but I've never found a product that actually works...For the last 3 years I've applied Corroseal to my back bumper,primed it with Red oxide and Coated it with rubberized Bumper black. After each winter the rust returns. It's basically a yearly maintenance thing for me.

I'd love to hear about a miracle product that really stops rust.


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