# Hate these doors



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

All kinds of fail.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Is that a fiberglass door Dean?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Nope. Steel. Probably from the 70's.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Ok, then I know they type your talking about. I don't get to see all that many exactly like in the picture, and usually they aren't in that rough of shape. Looks like you got your hands full making that look presentable.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Add plastic trim so it can't just be torched or sanded off.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

And intercoat oil-latex failure.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

DeanV said:


> And intercoat oil-latex failure.


Does it appear that that gray primer over the cream (original?) is latex? I can see three layers and was wondering about which layers could be latex. No way to tell from the pics of course. All I know is I don't envy your prep work.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Bottom layer peach (primer?? For orange , then bright orange, then salmon, then cottage red. Cottage red latex for sure. I think there is a oil
salmon followed by latex salmon.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Best tool for the job so far.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I don't see a failure, I see a challenge! 

(Sorry, trying to be more positive)
:jester:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

And this is about to hit


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Soda blast.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

If that were my door, I would be replacing it. 

Probably less labor.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Would it make sense to remove the plastic trim, prep the door, then replace with new trim.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Jasco, and grind down a putty knife so it fits between the muntins.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Toolnut said:


> Would it make sense to remove the plastic trim, prep the door, then replace with new trim.


We had a pair of entry doors like this, some of the trims were even broken (thanks, paperboy). We removed all the panels and epoxied carriage bolts into the holes. We added extra bolts to complete the pattern and painted the door. The interior sides were coated with so many coats of badly applied latex that they looked like frozen snot. We were removing all of that paint with grinders and stripper pads when the client saw the stripped metal surface. She was so taken with the look of the brushed metal that she had us clearcoat the inside faces.

Fifteen years later, the doors still look great, inside and out.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

This is a maintenance deal. Painting association pays, replace HO pays. No one ever wants to replace. I wonder if removing trim pieces and bondo the holes would pass association rules.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

DeanV said:


> This is a maintenance deal. Painting association pays, replace HO pays. No one ever wants to replace. I wonder if removing trim pieces and bondo the holes would pass association rules.


We have tried the bondo approach on other doors with that problem. What we saw was that the areas around the holes were proud, so that wasn't a satisfactory solution.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Gough said:


> We have tried the bondo approach on other doors with that problem. What we saw was that the areas around the holes were proud, so that wasn't a satisfactory solution.


Does proud mean higher. The opposite of dimpled.
Grinder


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Oden said:


> Does proud mean higher. The opposite of dimpled.
> Grinder


Yes, proud enough that grinder wasn't a solution. Some of the high spots were more than 0.021 in. out of plane. That's a magic number on 24 ga steel.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Is it easy to find new trim that fits the same? 

I think stripper would melt the plastic, most likely. The plastic will just need scraping and sanding to take care on the intercoat peeling as much as possible.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

DeanV said:


> Is it easy to find new trim that fits the same?
> 
> I think stripper would melt the plastic, most likely. The plastic will just need scraping and sanding to take care on the intercoat peeling as much as possible.


I assumed that the design was from that era only, at least that's what I hope.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

What about an acrylic stripper? I used some about 9 years ago out east. Its an ICI product, works great, doesn't sink or burn. You could actually coat the door with it, then wrap the door in poly, and come back a few hours later and take at least one later of paint off. 

It worked great when I was taking layer after layer of oil off of some really old wood stair risers, spindles, and hand rails

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have used some like smart strip. Some modern plastics melt, some do not. Hard to predict. I could try that. One time, it just fused the failing paint and plastic into one congealed mass.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> This is a maintenance deal. Painting association pays, replace HO pays. No one ever wants to replace. I wonder if removing trim pieces and bondo the holes would pass association rules.


Its metal bondo loves metal. Push for it you can power sand future maintenance cycles.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Maybe talk to an auto body shop surely they have some filler nowadays that sands easier than bondo. Then maybe skim coat the entire door and sand. Eliminate the proud screw holes.


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## ptbopainter (Sep 10, 2013)

Gough said:


> We had a pair of entry doors like this, some of the trims were even broken (thanks, paperboy). We removed all the panels and epoxied carriage bolts into the holes. We added extra bolts to complete the pattern and painted the door. The interior sides were coated with so many coats of badly applied latex that they looked like frozen snot. We were removing all of that paint with grinders and stripper pads when the client saw the stripped metal surface. She was so taken with the look of the brushed metal that she had us clearcoat the inside faces.
> 
> Fifteen years later, the doors still look great, inside and out.


I was just thinking Dean's door would look great stripped and clear-coated!


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

DeanV said:


> Add plastic trim so it can't just be torched or sanded off.



I was going to say heat gun, but I guess that is out of the question.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Those door's are a nightmare... That was when the manufactures where trying to use a alkyd primer that dries hard as a rock has a slick surface when dry I feel your pain...


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Delta Painting said:


> Those door's are a nightmare... That was when the manufactures where trying to use a alkyd primer that dries hard as a rock has a slick surface when dry I feel your pain...


I was under the impression that they dated from when some of the first VOC regs came into play. That led to a lot of compatibility problems. You see cars and trucks from that same era with widespread intercoat failure.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I always figured it was an alkyd that was incompatible with galvanized (saponification reaction between the galvanized and the alkyd primer).


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Gough said:


> You see cars and trucks from that same era with widespread intercoat failure.


I had one of those. It was an early 90s GMC Jimmy and 40% of the paint peeled down to the primer. I really wasn't to happy with the depreciation because of it. But then I lucked out when it was stolen when I valet parked it. :yes: Allstate asked me all sorts of questions about the shape it was in to value it, but never asked about the paint job. Got WAY more for it than I could have hoped to sell it for. :thumbup:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

That door isn't in the Cleveland area is it?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I had one of those. It was an early 90s GMC Jimmy and 40% of the paint peeled down to the primer. I really wasn't to happy with the depreciation because of it. But then I lucked out when it was stolen when I valet parked it. :yes: Allstate asked me all sorts of questions about the shape it was in to value it, but never asked about the paint job. Got WAY more for it than I could have hoped to sell it for. :thumbup:


That sounds about right. We saw lots of the Chevy W/Ts that suffered the same fate.

A good friend calls that paint job his anti-theft paint job. I guess it doesn't work as well as he thought.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Check out the next few white Chevy Express vans a very large percentage has paint peeling off the hood.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> That door isn't in the Cleveland area is it?


No, but Pauls truck is.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Bender said:


> No, but Pauls truck is.





LOL. _Actually_, it was recovered 35 days later in a federal drug bust. By that time the insurance company had already settled with me and it was all there's.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Oh joy. Another one.


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