# Enameling Trim



## MixMaster (Dec 13, 2010)

We've been doing alot of Enameled trim lately, most is preprimed poplar or MDF. Switched to latex enamel a few years ago. Have always primed again after filling nail holes with lightweight spackle, dapping and top coat. With the new selfpriming acrylics has anyone topcoated only and not had any flashing. Trying to save time w/o sacrificing quality and appearance. Any product recommendations? Thanks


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

never heard of it


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

Mix, I am guessing that the self priming aspect only helps with adhesion and you will more than likely have the same chance for flashing. If you try it out and it doesnt flash let us know!


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## JonPaint (Sep 23, 2010)

I guess it would depend on the filler used.I have had good results without a full re-prime.(I use Elmer's wood filler,and carefully sand as to not expose any bare wood)One thing I don't like about the pre primed stuff is it usually has razor sharp edges.I like to ease those up a bit with sandpaper and spot prime the resulting bare wood.You do have to do 2 finish coats over that pre primed stuff,but that's pretty standard anyway.


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## MixMaster (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. That's a start, I have been looking at different wood fillers vs. light weight spackle to maybe prevent flashing with one top coat. Unfortunately with the competitive economy we have to look at saving time (hrs. = $). With today's market conditions we have to examine the way we all do business, processes, etc. Anymore ideas or comments will be appreciated. Thanks again and back to the battle.


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## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

Why not try an Alkyd enamel for customers who don't like the smell and an oil for those that dont mind. Should cover that flashing better and have better adhesion.


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## JonPaint (Sep 23, 2010)

You won't get much of a gloss with only one top coat,and if you go to touch it up,touch ups will flash with more gloss than surrounding areas.Good luck!


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## MixMaster (Dec 13, 2010)

Brian, I'm guessing you meant Acrylic rather tham Alklyd concerning smell, thanks. I went to latex enamels about 8 yrs ago, got the system down, prep, sand,vac,prime,sand,vac,dap,finish. What I'm looking for now is how to reduce time. I do work for the National builders, and as with most everyone's looking for cost reductions. One of the only way's to reduce costs is looking at process and still have our quality. Any ideas regarding process changes etc?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

We have had good luck with Dap's Drydex (goes on pink dries white), pile it on thick because it shrinks and sand it smooth - no flashing.

We use a lot of AURA on trim and have no issues with flashing if we use Onetime or Spackle. It does cover quite well for one coat but we wouldn't.

We 2 coat all new trim - one coat only in certain repaint situations - it doesn't take much time to put the second cost on anyway. 

Anyone use Dap 33 glazing compound for nail holes?


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## MixMaster (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks Roominaday, I will check the availability of the Dap Product in my area. The loading it up is about the same as we do now. Primed a bunch of scrap trim, looks like my weekend project is drilling holes and filling with different products, top coat and check for the best results.


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## ltd (Nov 18, 2010)

i like ready patch for nail holes fill then scrape with single edge razor blade or flexible putty knife very good or over fill then sand. perfect. my understanding of self priming paint is if you use it as a primer its a prim er or as a paint its a paint but not both at the same time. its funny super paint is now self priming same paint as always but they changed label .i would still run quick coat of primer you sleep better at night


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## DHlll (Dec 22, 2010)

*saving time*

no matter which filler you use besides a waterbased putty (i.e aquaglaze) you probably are going to have flashing unless you seal it. You can get away with one coat of latex enamel if you brush heavy. When i need to seal woodfiller or ready patch in a hurry a use BIN spray cans. Or coverstain Spray cans. Just a quick shot. i dust it lightly 2 or 3 times. It dries in about 20 minutes, seals the filler, then on to brushing out the finish. done


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## DHlll (Dec 22, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> We have had good luck with Dap's Drydex (goes on pink dries white), pile it on thick because it shrinks and sand it smooth - no flashing.
> 
> We use a lot of AURA on trim and have no issues with flashing if we use Onetime or Spackle. It does cover quite well for one coat but we wouldn't.
> 
> ...


Dap 33 is oil based. Under a water based product? why not use aquaglaze?


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> We have had good luck with Dap's Drydex (goes on pink dries white), pile it on thick because it shrinks and sand it smooth - no flashing.
> 
> We use a lot of AURA on trim and have no issues with flashing if we use Onetime or Spackle. It does cover quite well for one coat but we wouldn't.
> 
> ...


 We only use glazing compound-except for larger holes-would't think of using anything else. Makes me crazy when I see guys overfilling nail sets with woodfiller or some type of spackle and then sanding it out.


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## saveonpainting (Mar 17, 2010)

if your using latex enamel ud save more time priming all the trim than just spot priming.
if theres finishing nail holes chance is there will be many.
ofcourse with priming you wont need to second guess yourself when it comes to texture matching after spackling.
if its bare MDF definately prime!
I would always prefer to be on the safe side rather then being called out on a flaw by a client!


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## MixMaster (Dec 13, 2010)

Would never use a oil base filler when priming and topcoating with latex, eventually you get the oil slick thru the finish coat. Seems glazing compound would be difficult to sand and most is oil based. Spot priming isn't cost effective when you're doing a whole house, sorry I didn't mention that. With today's market conditions and costs just trying to think outside the box in reducing production time with different products and processes. Thanks


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## PaintSlave (Jan 9, 2011)

Sup guys first post!:thumbup:

I'm in a very similiar situation, I'm on a pretty big construction site and I'm in charge of enamel trim touch-up. Using Acrylic Sw Solo gloss. I'm just starting and the trim is REALLY bad. I've been using almost a hole quart a house of denatured alcohol! Stuff really helps sanding and getting rid of runs.

My question, the biggest problem I'm having is initial filling of nail holes. It's everywhere. How can i easily fix them? I'm using Sw lightwieght spackle. Was thinking about switching to the green can of crawfords!? Alot of the time, when sanding, it will still sink or fall out, should I knife them or finger them? I'm kinda stuck


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

MixMaster said:


> We've been doing alot of Enameled trim lately, most is preprimed poplar or MDF. Switched to latex enamel a few years ago. Have always primed again after filling nail holes with lightweight spackle, dapping and top coat. With the new selfpriming acrylics has anyone topcoated only and not had any flashing. Trying to save time w/o sacrificing quality and appearance. Any product recommendations? Thanks


 
for NC: ball some glazing up and fill/rub the nail holes then finish paint all at the same time then come back an hit the 2nd coat...........learn how to use your brush before learning new shortcuts


ive never in my life seen oil from the glazing seep through the latex finish. how much ''oil'' you think can seep out of a hole the size of a finish nail???? lol


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

PaintSlave said:


> Sup guys first post!
> 
> 
> My question, the biggest problem I'm having is initial filling of nail holes. It's everywhere. How can i easily fix them? I'm using Sw lightwieght spackle. Was thinking about switching to the green can of crawfords!? Alot of the time, when sanding, it will still sink or fall out, should I knife them or finger them? I'm kinda stuck


 

I use glazing and find that most efficient......... the idiots who go around sanding wood filler over nail holes are called ''highballers'' and they are good for nothing but raising the cost of a job...... I have a thread on them here go check it out........now back to your question!....... ive tried everything just to see what works and what doesn't and im still back to glazing..............but if your dead set on using wood filler don't be an idiot and sand it afterwards, use your brain and carry a damp rag with you and wipe the excess off after you fill, make sure to use a thick putty though..something with some ''body'' that way when you wipe the hole wont suck down on you. for flat standing trim you have to be more carefull 


you are now a more informed painter after reading my post ......your welcome :innocent:


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Holy cow,don't you guys use Crawford's "Painter's Putty",it's kinda like glaze I suppose,lead free,latex enamel covers it in 1 coat,mostly.

Beats the heck out of a wood filler overfill and sand down.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I use crawfords a lot on repaints and add whitning, on NC its near impossible to get fill with one pass. Which is what these guys are trying to accomplish.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

MixMaster said:


> We've been doing alot of Enameled trim lately, most is preprimed poplar or MDF. Switched to latex enamel a few years ago. Have always primed again after filling nail holes with lightweight spackle, dapping and top coat. With the new selfpriming acrylics has anyone topcoated only and not had any flashing. Trying to save time w/o sacrificing quality and appearance. Any product recommendations? Thanks


 We use Dura-Poxy from KM a lot,it's a good Latex Enamel that we sometimes use to one coat over crawfords painters putty.

It works better to two coat over raw wood,but we would never not use a lacquer primer over mdf,much too rough if you use latex

We get 1 coat on and then sand the heck out of the routered edges on all mdf,then undercoat twice more,paying sttention to flood those routered edges,then finish sand then 1 or two coats pre cat lacquer finish

All this from Mac-Lac lacquers anybody else out there use them?They might just be in California,I know theyre based in the Bay area


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