# Ben for doors and trim?



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

Several times a year I paint for a GC in Chicago who remodels condos in a hi rise. The customer in the unit I am currently painting specified Benjamin Moore paint. The GC knows I am not fond of Ultra Spec, so he got all Ben. So far I have rolled out eggshell on the ceilings and walls in the bathroom and attached closet as well as 2 coats of flat on the rest of the ceilings, both of which went on fine. The wall paint seems hard to cut in with the flat, but that might be because the walls appear to be sucking in the water from the paint.
My question is about using the Ben semi-gloss on the doors and trim. 

I stopped by my local BM dealer and spoke with a guy who is very knowledgeable about products and painting techniques. He seemed hesitant about using the Ben on doors and trim and that I might want to go with at least Regal Select.

Does anyone here have any good or bad experience with using Ben semi-gloss on doors and trim?

One more question: the doors are from a big box store and are pre-primed. If I was doing this job directly for the customer I would scuff sand the door and re-prime it before finishing it. I wonder if I should try to talk the GC into having me do this or just paint the doors and leave it at that?

futtyos


----------



## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I've used tons of Ben SG. Never had a problem with it. Covers well. Holds up over time and abuse. If you have a relatively discerning customer, I might suggest bumping things up to Regal. Ben's certainly not as thick as Regal though. Still works well.

As far as repriming the doors, I've seen lots of guys on here mention that they do this. I've never seen a purpose to it myself. We know that the primer that's on there is probably el cheapo, but it's already there and that's a fact. I've always just scuff sanded, dusted and painted. Never had a problem.

If your GC thinks the expense of repriming the doors is a good idea upon your suggestion, regardless as to whether it's necessary. Hang on to them. They're one of the good ones.


----------



## stl911 (Jul 16, 2014)

i have used Ben semi on door and trims many times and i dont see any problem with it. but when there is a chance, i upgrade it to regal as it is thicker and covers better


----------



## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

I use Ben as equally as RS. Both Great products but over the last two months I've noticed regal select semi to have more of a gloss finish then a semi gloss. Ben is more of a true semi gloss finish.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Priming over the factory primer is definitely a very good thing.to do. It gives the door a much creamier, consistent look. Gives better hold out, stopping the first coat from soaking in so much, and gives a much stronger overall finish, in my experience. 
If this is high-rise, it probably is expected to turn out really nice, so priming is well worth it, as you probably agree. 
Just ask if he can pick up the primer of your choice, or should you pick up some.primer. He'll get that your intention is to prime in order to give good results.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Oh also about Ben vs. Ultra Spec 500... it's already a done deal since you've got some paint on, but I learned from my Ben Moore store that US 500 performs better as a flat better than Ben. It has "cross linking technology" that helps it cover and dry more evenly, drying flatter and hiding application pattern.

Of course, two coats recommended as always.


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Preferred primer?*



ridesarize said:


> Priming over the factory primer is definitely a very good thing.to do. It gives the door a much creamier, consistent look. Gives better hold out, stopping the first coat from soaking in so much, and gives a much stronger overall finish, in my experience.
> If this is high-rise, it probably is expected to turn out really nice, so priming is well worth it, as you probably agree.
> Just ask if he can pick up the primer of your choice, or should you pick up some.primer. He'll get that your intention is to prime in order to give good results.


Any preference for primer?

futtyos


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Ultra Spec and dings*



ridesarize said:


> Oh also about Ben vs. Ultra Spec 500... it's already a done deal since you've got some paint on, but I learned from my Ben Moore store that US 500 performs better as a flat better than Ben. It has "cross linking technology" that helps it cover and dry more evenly, drying flatter and hiding application pattern.
> 
> Of course, two coats recommended as always.


Ultra Spec may perform better as a flat, but it sure seems to attract marks and such, almost by just looking at the wall. On the job I used it on I had to repaint 2 walls at least 3 times as well as touch up in a bunch of other places. There was still a bunch of other stuff that was done to finish the remodel, but we never had that much of a problem on other jobs where the contractor normally uses Behr Premium Plus on the walls.

I just put a first coat of Ben flat on the walls yesterday and enjoyed how well it went on. I will have a better idea of how it performs when the job is done.

futtyos


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

futtyos said:


> Any preference for primer?
> 
> futtyos


That's your choice. I'm not impressed by the sandability of many water based primers. Mostly I don't get the opportunity to try new ones all the time. Just get to try one here and there through the year. 

One very inexpensive one I've had success with was zinser bullseye. It's cheap, sprays easy and sands good. I know it doesn't seem like the best choice but I've used it twice on millpacks and doors. Use a ff tip and don't overload and you won't have to sand any orange peel away.


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

ridesarize said:


> That's your choice. I'm not impressed by the sandability of many water based primers. Mostly I don't get the opportunity to try new ones all the time. Just get to try one here and there through the year.
> 
> One very inexpensive one I've had success with was zinser bullseye. It's cheap, sprays easy and sands good. I know it doesn't seem like the best choice but I've used it twice on millpacks and doors. Use a ff tip and don't overload and you won't have to sand any orange peel away.


I've never liked the sandability of water based either. I discovered that longer dry times help some sand better. Just by accident a project was left for awhile and BM 046 sanded better after 2 weeks. It has no real world application though, we never have the luxury or that much dry time. Lenmar acrylic "lacquer" undercoater is about the closest to oil when it come to sanding and it's ready in 1-2 hours.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Why I supply paint on every job I do. First I want the markup second I use what I like.


----------



## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

Millwork primer (costs about $6 per gallon) used on the doors isn't designed for hold out. Think of it as a cheap basecoat that dries quickly. That being said, not all topcoats / primers are compatible (rare). You will know it if you run across compatibility issues (topcoat will part like the Red Sea).

Personally, you have two options:

1) No primer: inexpensive, quick turnaround
2) Primer: I prefer a quick dry alkyd that sands well (likes the 217 series from BM or the lacquer undercoater) to provide the smoothest of finishes. If you're not needing the smoothest of finishes, perhaps option 1 is the better solution.

Ben is a great product--think of the original Regal in terms of application (vinyl acrylic). I just prefer Advance or Cabinet Coat for my wood items due to the products hardness and flow / leveling. Regardless of your choice, always choose the best product . . . that $10 you may save on the cheaper one, may cost you $50 in labor when you redo it. I call it, insurance.


----------

