# Need Primer for drywall scratches



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Hello Everyone,

Long story short, primed and painted the walls, thought if I put it on thick enough it would solve the scratches. Apparently the little guy in my head saying it wouldn't work was right. Guess that's what I get for trying to rush things. :wallbash:

The scratches are pretty bad, they aren't made from a knife mark which is good because that would be WAY too thick to fix. They are simply sanding pad scratches, but still very noticable. 

Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions on high-build primers that they use and like? I usually use the Sherwin Williams Hi-Build primer, but the local store sold the pallet that I ordered because I didn't take it fast enough and of course they don't stock it so it takes 2 weeks to get anything in. 

Doing some frantic research I looked at the Kilz brand which I've used successfully in the past, but found out they do have a high-build primer. Looking at the PDS it seems like it might be a better/thicker primer. 8 mil dry vs. 3.4 or 4 mil dry for the hi-build, plus the % volume solids is much higher 40+% vs 20 something% for the SW hi-build. So 1 coat achieves what it would take in 2 or 3 coats from SW.

Edit: I looked at Kilz Pro-X P40 High Build


Anyone have anything just as thick or thicker they've used/suggest? This is for drywall* so a block filler would be overkill. 


Thanks in advance!!


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Sanding pad scratches? What grit was used to finish?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I think it was 150? A BIG screw up, not by me, but anyway....I'm in a big rush on the job and of course me forcing it didn't help. Go figure.

Edit: 220 should have been used or higher, but it's too late for that now.


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## gabe (Apr 20, 2012)

Are you just spraying the drywall or are you rolling it? I would think a 1/2 nap roller would cover up the scratches. What finish is the paint?


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Look into Gripper Glidden primer.Helps mask.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

mudbone said:


> Look into Gripper Glidden primer.Helps mask.


Never heard of that primer. Looked into the pds, seems to be less mils than the hi-build I get from Sherwin. So it wouldn't cover the scratches as much. But I'll keep that in the back pocket in case they run out or something.


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

How many scratches are we talking about here? Can you skim coat and repaint or touch up? I'd rather take the time now and fix it right then get a call in a month when the paint cures and draws tight to the surface exposing what you thought had covered.


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Unless you are going to apply umpteen coats of whatever, their is no product that will cure this problem in one step. Agree with Slopmeyer, skim scratches, spot prime, and finish coat. Why risk avoiding proper steps. Just do it right the first time.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

I scuff between coats with 150 all the time with no issues.. (The round wall sanders)


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

150 is fine, I'm thinking those scratches were done with something more like 80 grit.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Skim coat is most likely your best bet. Let the HO know and charge them for it.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

paintball head said:


> 150 is fine, I'm thinking those scratches were done with something more like 80 grit.


150 is fine.Anything below is coarser.:whistling2:


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## Cutandroll (Mar 3, 2014)

If you did it you can't charge extra. But skim, spot prime, then re-paint seems to be your only option. Also it doesn't matter the mill of the paint. It won't self level. It'll just show anything that it's going over.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Sounds like marks from a drywall screen. A 150 screen will still leave scratches, its not like sandpaper.


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

mudbone said:


> 150 is fine.Anything below is coarser.:whistling2:


Not sure what your point is. :whistling2:

The original poster thought the scratches were done by 150 grit. My point was that I thought the damage was done by 80 grit (or something coarse) and not 150 grit. 150 could be used after the 80 to smooth out the scratches from the 80.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

paintball head said:


> Not sure what your point is. :whistling2:
> 
> The original poster thought the scratches were done by 150 grit. My point was that I thought the damage was done by 80 grit (or something coarse) and not 150 grit. 150 could be used after the 80 to smooth out the scratches from the 80.


That' fine carry on.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

mudbone said:


> That' fine carry on.


Lol. Landed another one, didn't ya.:thumbup:


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Paint covers. It doesn't fill.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> Sounds like marks from a drywall screen. A 150 screen will still leave scratches, its not like sandpaper.


Agree 100%!:thumbsup:


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

Solution would be use some 150 paper not screen and lightly sand out the scratches.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Thanks for all the advice! 

The problem with the skim coat is that they aren't smooth walls. They are textured walls, so it becomes a lot more difficult because of the crevices of the texture.

I ended up spraying a thick layer of hi-build and that took out 80 to 90% of the scratches (granted it was already primed with PVA). They are still visible if you know what to look for in some areas, but to the untrained eye that walks in it won't be apparently visible like the previous attempt. 

Got some of the new high build kilz in, special order, and I still have half the house to do so I can't wait to try out a thicker primer and see what the results look like. 

I ended up telling the texture guys to go back to the portions that have no primer and sand again with 320 grit and it ended up taking all the previous scratch marks out. So it should be ready to prime and paint without issue. Thankfully!


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