# Kitchen cabinets



## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

I don't do cabinets often, was looking at a job today and the HO asked me about repainting these, how would you do it? 
Anyone use this? She may just go with new cabs, cause she does not like the counter or the heights and layout anyways.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Light sand, solvent wipe, bonding primer, then finish...I like Impervo but have heard good things about Cabinet Coat.


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

I forgot the pictures


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Try the "Advance" if you have the time to do one side a day....tough enamel finish.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Cabs look good, just need nice hardware and some crown. Replace the appliances and add a cabinet around the fridge. New countertops and a paint job and you're done. Replace that ugly azz florescent light fixture and add some pendant lights over the island.


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

Love me some Cabinet Coat. My new "go to" trim paint.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Paintuh4Life said:


> Love me some Cabinet Coat. My new "go to" trim paint.


I find cabinet coat too sloppy for trim paint...Once applied it looks terrific!


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Rob being you are a SW guy they have a oil hybrid in Pro Classic that would work nice. Or you could do them in the standard Pro Classic oil. 

Clean, degloss, sand, oil primer, two coats of oil finish. They would look really nice. What color?


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

Thanks, you guys are good! She is thinking white, the rest of the house has all been redone very nice and this does not match.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

prep/prime then oil finish is my go to but whatever you do add some time for PITA factor.........


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Rob said:


> Thanks, you guys are good! She is thinking white, the rest of the house has all been redone very nice and this does not match.


Then I wouldn't use an oil if it is white...It will yellow in time,even the "Advance"....

Go with the cabinet Coat!


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## StevenH (Sep 7, 2009)

JoseyWales said:


> Then I wouldn't use an oil if it is white...It will yellow in time,even the "Advance"....
> 
> Go with the cabinet Coat!


How long did it took to yellow? Rep just gave me a quart of white to try.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

StevenH said:


> How long did it took to yellow? Rep just gave me a quart of white to try.


Not sure..It really depends on how much sunlight is in the room..It's the darkness that yellows the paint for some odd reason...The 'advance' apparently doesn't yellow as bad as a normal alkyd.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.

You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


What's your go-to cabinet paint to spray?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


Hell just froze over.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> Hell just froze over.


ya but....$75/gallon....No way that would be my every day trim paint.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


Is that a pig up there?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I love how there's a subconversation going on here in which people are thinking rob don't know chit....


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.



This advice will not work. Rob does not own a paint brush:jester:


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


Have you sprayed with it? Does it level nice when it's sprayed?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Those don't look like pricey cabinets she could probably replace them with install for around 2k. 

I'm surprised no one has asked yet but why paint them? 

Anyway if you have to paint you must prime with oil. But is latex really the best topcoat?

I have yet to learn about cabinet/furniture level staining, lacquer etc. But surely there is something that will be harder and more durable than latex?

These are kitchen cabinets. The most used area in a house theyre are gonna take a beating.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Those look like oak veneer cabinets to me - they're a real pain to paint/refinish because the pores are so deep and nearly impossible to fill without using a high build sealer or going straight to paint. If you're doing them in a light colour, go with cabinet coat. The product says it doesn't need a primer, but I suggest you use one anyways. Clean the cabinets real good or nothing will stick to them and you'll have warranty problems. Sand with 220 between coats - 320 scuff before final coat. A lacquer undercoater will speed up the process or you can use an oil primer. Spray is best for topcoats but you can still achieve a nice finish by brush with the cabinet coat product. It's better than any trim paint i've used before - no blocking problems for quick stack and pack (24 hours or so), reasonably quick dry time for an acrylic and has a urethane component. Only comes in light colours.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Chit,don't anyone out there use lacquer undercoat?

Take them doors off lay em down 3 coats undercoat both sides,hell if you can swing lacquer paint you can paint both sides in a day.

Do they have lacquer undercoat and lacquer paint back east?

Is that why you don't use it?

I mean you prime with oil your not doing anything else that day right?

Unless it's coverstain I guess,but still,takes hours before you could sand it.Lacquer undercoat takes a half hour..


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


I have heard really good things about the multi surface industrial acrylic as well. 

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/pro_industrial_multisurface_acrylic/


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


Thanks, I will have to buy one of those orange brushes.



Paradigmzz said:


> I love how there's a subconversation going on here in which people are thinking rob don't know chit....


I'm like like a mushroom, kept in the dark and full of chit.



DeanV said:


> This advice will not work. Rob does not own a paint brush:jester:


I do too, I just used one to brush off the crap the drywallers left on a windowsill.



straight_lines said:


> I have heard really good things about the multi surface industrial acrylic as well.
> 
> http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/pro_industrial_multisurface_acrylic/


I'll have to check into that, I think I used one of those on a commercial job last year, can't remember. You think that one would be good for cabs?

Thanks for the suggestions!:thumbsup:


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

I tried the Cabinet Coat on some cabinets for a customers rental property. Wanted to save some money for them since BM (ours carry the Cab Coat) said it was rated for two coats over stained wood - no primer needed. It did not block the tannin's so after spraying 2 coats CC I had to apply a stain blocker and another coat of finish. I did spray the previously painted doors with it and they turned out great with a very durable finish.

PRO: Dries very hard, covers well, and levels great.

CON: Does not block tannin's, requires a prime coat, not as white/bright as Aura, and for the cost you're better off using a premium acrylic like the Aura.


Tried the Pro Industrial Acrylic last year on some metal restaurant doors - (http://www.painttalk.com/f22/dtm-vs-alkyd-8254/#post126976). I had to go back in 8-10 weeks to repaint them with a BM product (think I used an alkyd). The finish had rubbed off around door knobs and wherever they were being handled. The manager even said the original finish, that could now be seen, looked better. If I remember it only came in a high gloss finish and i wouldn't recommend it for a custom home.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Is this the stuff you mean?Sounds like a good option, thanks.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Tonyg said:


> PRO: Dries very hard, covers well, and levels great.
> 
> CON: Does not block tannin's, requires a prime coat, not as white/bright as Aura, and for the cost you're better off using a premium acrylic like the Aura.


The problem with aura is that it blocks - so when the cabinet doors are closed there's a chance they'll stick to the frames and you'd be pulling paint off every time they were opened. Not so with CC. 

I agree about the primer - not sure why the can says it doesn't need it but i've always found that it does.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Alec, one of the other options we discussed was replacing the uppers and painting the lowers. The dark cabs you just did came to mind and I sent her the link to your site to look at the kitchen!


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> Rob, if you are a SW guy then check out Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial 0 VOC ACRYLIC. I've used it on kitchens before. Spreads nice, plenty of working time to do a nice brush job.
> 
> You guys see that? I just recommended a SW product. mark your Calendars.


JP you got it right, I just used it for the first time on some Metal Door Frames. Good open time, does not gum up a brush(8hrs brushing and still wasn't gummed up) and lastly it lays down so nice off the brush. I could barely tell the difference from the frames that were sprayed vs. brushed. I was befuddled. ps. watch for sags


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

RCP said:


> Alec, one of the other options we discussed was replacing the uppers and painting the lowers.


Replacing half of the doors might not look right. You could try to convince her to get new MDF doors - they look real sharp when done in solid colours (use level sealer/primer and pigmented lacquer for a top notch finish). MDF doors aren't very expensive - and there are lots of styles available. Easy to finish as well.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Rcon said:


> Those look like oak veneer cabinets to me - they're a real pain to paint/refinish because the pores are so deep and nearly impossible to fill without using a high build sealer or going straight to paint. If you're doing them in a light colour, go with cabinet coat. The product says it doesn't need a primer, but I suggest you use one anyways. Clean the cabinets real good or nothing will stick to them and you'll have warranty problems. Sand with 220 between coats - 320 scuff before final coat. A lacquer undercoater will speed up the process or you can use an oil primer. Spray is best for topcoats but you can still achieve a nice finish by brush with the cabinet coat product. It's better than any trim paint i've used before - no blocking problems for quick stack and pack (24 hours or so), reasonably quick dry time for an acrylic and has a urethane component. Only comes in light colours.


Have you used the MLC wood paste? Spray or brush it on and buff it with a cloth. It fills in a lot of gain on oak, and makes for a much better finish. 

I have some clients that don't mind the deep grains in the finish though.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Rcon said:


> Replacing half of the doors might not look right. You could try to convince her to get new MDF doors - they look real sharp when done in solid colours (use level sealer/primer and pigmented lacquer for a top notch finish). MDF doors aren't very expensive - and there are lots of styles available. Easy to finish as well.


She had a piece of furniture, a hutch, that had a dark base and light top, she really liked the look, but I see your point. Thanks


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Rcon said:


> The problem with aura is that it blocks - so when the cabinet doors are closed there's a chance they'll stick to the frames and you'd be pulling paint off every time they were opened. Not so with CC.
> 
> I agree about the primer - not sure why the can says it doesn't need it but i've always found that it does.


Shouldnt you be adding the little felt pads to the doors anyways? 


Certain applications will need a primer. Most of the things that you do just happen to fall into the prime first category.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Rcon said:


> The problem with aura is that it blocks - so when the cabinet doors are closed there's a chance they'll stick to the frames and you'd be pulling paint off every time they were opened. Not so with CC.
> 
> I agree about the primer - not sure why the can says it doesn't need it but i've always found that it does.


I haven't had a problem with sticking. I usually plan on 5 coats on the front of the doors and 3 on the back side of the doors and cabinets.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> Have you used the MLC wood paste? Spray or brush it on and buff it with a cloth. It fills in a lot of gain on oak, and makes for a much better finish.
> 
> I have some clients that don't mind the deep grains in the finish though.


I found a place that sells it and plan on picking some up just to keep on hand. 

It says that ALL finish must be stripped completely off though?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I haven't always stripped, just applied after primer. Its solvent based so you could possible run into issues with lifting the old finish I suppose. Never had an issue, and I usually prime cabinets with oil.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

JoseyWales said:


> What's your go-to cabinet paint to spray?


I am in search of one. Having a hard time keeping up with all the product changes. Actually in the OP scenario, I am most interested in the bonding primers, tops coats are not as important as whats beneath it. We are working on a rather massive undertaking of testing bonding primers recently. When that is complete, I will focus on top coats for cabinets. I have 3 in mind but I have not tested them on cabinets. 

If I was pressed to pick one today on short notice, I would not hesitate to throw DEVOE DevFlex QD or HP on them. The non-tacky hard surface film cleans very easily.


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## ccpainting (Oct 17, 2007)

i used advantage 900 worked good didn't yellow. dries as hard as a oil. need a oil primer though if there are any tannins


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