# Big Job Big Caulking Need some Ideas ???



## seacleaner (Jun 5, 2011)

GC called me this morning wont's me to give a price on caulking shoe molding to the tile floors. Sounds easy enough well it's a 75 unit 3 story complex the apartments are 2 bedroom 1 1/2 bath, kitchen there between 850 and 1050 Sq foot. They wont the whole unit caulked all the rooms plus there are 3 common areas between 2500 and 3500 sq feet. I have never done a quote for straight caulking. they decided not to go with carpeting makes sense it's a assisted care facility. any one got any ideas on how to price this out ????


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Figure out 1 unit and multiply it by 75, then add a little time to each one for cleanup and moving to the next one. 

Pat


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

How long does it take to caulk a room out or for any of your guys. I would charge cost plus if you do not know which should be a no no if your in the business. 

Figure out how long it will take you to caulk a unit and how much caulk it will take. Then figure out the hourly rate you pay your guys with all the taxes and payroll stuff. Multiply that by 75 units and add in what your profit margin is going to be to that. there are many ways of doing this, but as honest as I can give you. I doubt the natives will run to answer this, but I do not want you to go in there and charge a handy mans price and create a cheap price nexus to sweep the area your in.

Not knowing how many people you have, their speed and quality, just figure 30 man hours per guy times 3 guys. Then you got the caulk, rags and what profit margin you want to make.

I feel like the bald guy off of the Princess bride who tries to out think the main character lol. Good luck !


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Caulking to a tile floor aint like regular caulking,you got to keep that stuff tight,I wipe my finger a lot more when I'm caulking to tile floor,takes a lot longer for me to caulk out a floor than to caulk to a wall.

But thats just me


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Yea that sounds like a time suck. What size tile? The grout lines is where the problem will be, and you will have to stop tooling there or stop the caulk short so it doesn't get into the grout. 

A smaller tile would be a nightmare.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

I know this is elementary but.... less caulk out of the gun means less excess to wipe away. Cut a smaller tip. As far as the grout lines, just like any other break in a bead, so long as there isn't an explosion of slimy goo to wipe, it should be as easy as one swipe to the left then one to the right with a little fingering here and there. It's easier caulking tight lines because there is less excess caulk to wipe away and less trips to the water/thinner bucket (possibly siliconized for this?) to clean hands and rag.

I think.. hahhaha. 

On topic. Man that sounds like a cake job actually. 

The idea of multiplying one unit by 75 works most likely. When estimating lately I usually do a couple different methods to crosscheck each other. This sounds like a linear foot price thing to me. But whatever works there is more than one way. 

If the lines are tight as you say, how many linear feet can you get out of a tube of caulk. If the gaps are 1/4" or greater then.... If there isn't a lot of excess being wasted you can figure materials on that. Depending on the amount of inside and outside corners, how long does it take to caulk 100 linear feet? Or how many linear feet can one man/woman caulk in an hour? Consider taxes, insurance, overhead, whatever your company operates on plus profit per hr...

I dunno man wish I was bidding on it though. We would be a crew of trash talking people because I know the whining from caulk finger would begin about midway through the second day. I love picking on whiners it makes for a good day on the job.


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

Why does it need to be wiped out in the first place? I mean if you have practice over the years there is no reason to have to wipe it out. I have caulked tile to floor, base to wall and casing edges to walls with beads only unless the wood is really hacked up.

cut the caulk to the best size and angle you need, hold the caulk gun straight, apply the right squeezing pressure and this can be regulated when you start caulking the bead. Do not pull your arm to you, walk the gun as you keep your arm straight.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

That's an option I didn't consider with this. If it is not spec'd out in such a fashion that requires it to be wiped it could very well work if the caulker has that talent. 

For me and us we will wipe a bead unless it is to brick. And then I make sure the caulker has that talent even if using a clear lexel or some other wonderful sealant. I think potentially this could work doing it to tile also. Good thought.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

I think its a no brainer but get clear caulk and I would go about 400 ft per hour you say shoe mold are you talking about rubber base, if so I have seen it specd to caulk the top and bottom of the base


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