# Sanding between BM Advance coats



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi all,
I Tried finding an answer to this question in the archives, and I did not find anything that satisfied me.
I have done a couple of small jobs with BM Advance, and I love it. On both jobs I followed the instructions and sanded between coats. However, I will most likely have a much bigger job coming up and wondering if sanding is really necessary. I never sand between coats using other waterborne paints, and wondering why sanding is recommended--for a smoother look or is it for better adhesion? I have also used California's Ultraplate (which is the only other modified alkyd paint that I have used) and just looked at the spec. sheet, and it did not specify sanding between coats. 
Thanks.
Peter


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Ultraplate is an acrylic urethane, so it should have good adhesion without sanding. The same may not be true for Advance, but seems like most people don't sand between coats. See some of the answers below:

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/spraying-bm-advance-question-24706/

I find it hard to sand Advance on any reasonable schedule, unless I wet sand it. I use a bucket of soapy water and an extra fine sponge or 400 wet-dry paper. After I sand an area, I take an old crib sheet and wipe it clean. Works great since the crib sheet is large enough to remain relatively clean and dry enough. I really only do this to fix runs or problems after the first coat of spraying.

Light nib sanding is always a good idea, to remove dust nibs, and can be done dry with 320 or 400 (3M purple paper seems to be the best).


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

He may have meant California's Nextech, which is a modified alkyd. The wet sanding sounds like a good idea.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

If you're re coating ext day or even later that day no need to sand. Light sand as others said with 320-400 is nice for smooth feel. If you wait a week or more you'd probably want to lightly sand.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

kdpaint said:


> He may have meant California's Nextech, which is a modified alkyd. The wet sanding sounds like a good idea.


It works well between coats - avoids gumming up the sandpaper. A quarter sheet of 400 paper can do a whole room of trim, if you clean it in the bucket with a nail brush or toothbrush occasionally. A sponge will last forever. Also, no dust, less cleanup, cuts faster. To flatten things out more than a sponge, I use a rubber sanding block. You can use a coarser grit wet than dry and get the same smoothness. Seems like wet sanding removes runs more effectively. For any interior lead paint, wet sanding is a must. Then prime it asap and continue on.

Yes, Nextech is just like Advance (I had microbubble problems spraying it, indicating slightly different anti-foamers or surfactants, though). It seems as if it could be the same resin from Wilmington, MA...


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

Never needed to sand between coats for me. I also did my own cabs with it with out sanding between coats and it has held up to my doofy dog raking her claws on it many times. I love it. It will be hard for me to ever break away to try something different.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

With all my talk of wet sanding, I made it sound like Advance had to be sanded between coats -- I don't think this is required. I don't sand the first coat unless I have runs or there are areas where the first coat showed up some problems I want to fix (often the case on trim, since the gloss shows more defects than the primer, or filled areas sometimes come out rougher due to porosity). Wet sanding with 400 paper is faster than any other method I know of, and leaves no scratches or traces of sanding.


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## Seattlepainting (Jun 8, 2010)

*Sanding between coats*

This is "the question" for finishers. I have have been on both sides; you must sand and you don't need to sand.

If there is not an adhesion issue and the environment (dust/particulate) can be controlled then you do not need to sand. Why would you ever sand with spray booth application?

Manufacturers need to write specs for the lowest common denominator. Fact; most painters and DiYers do not prep adequately either existing substrate or QC intercoat profile.

We have been using modified alkyds without sanding between coats. Here is a job all finishing onsite no sanding between coats

http://www.shearerpainting.com/blog/seattle-painted-kitchen-cabinets/


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Pete the Painter said:


> wondering why sanding is recommended--for a smoother look or is it for better adhesion?


Its for both, and its good protocol, but not always necessary.

We sand to give the surface tooth -thousands of little scratches that give the paint something to hold onto. And if you needed to prime, and put on two coats of finish its good to sand before the final coat to get rid of the crud your brush surely picked up.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Bender said:


> Its for both, and its good protocol, but not always necessary.
> 
> We sand to give the surface tooth -thousands of little scratches that give the paint something to hold onto.


Thanks Bender, 
I know why we sand, I just never sand between coats, unless there are runs or other imperfections, for other pants. I was just wondering if there was something different about modified Alkyd paints that make it necessary to sand.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

Don't you guys think that maybe they recommend sanding between coats so that when you complain about product failure they can ask, 'did you sand between coats?' and use this as a tool to weasel out of liability. I think most good painters are logical and understand that a product should stick to itself just fine if it's applied within a reasonable amount of time unless like Pete seems to be wondering, these hybrid paints are different than other paints. If they are different, I would be a little concerned about why a paint would struggle to adhere to itself as I can't really remember this ever being a concern with any paint I have ever used in my entire life.


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