# Trick to exterior door sticking to threshold?



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Someone suggested spraying PAM on the edge of the door after I spray it. (let it dry as long as possible first of course)

I've painted a door first thing in the morning, let dry as long as possible during the day before closing fully only to find the paint stuck and pull off on the weather stripping the next morning....deflating moment. (Duration)

Suggestions/tips to avoid this?

I'm going to use SW all surface enamel on these doors coming up.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

baby powder.


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## Precision-TBay (Jun 1, 2011)

Paint it with the fast dry devflex, it nonds to almost anything and is also dtm. I have never had a door stick since i started using it


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

The baby powder trick works for all kinds of sticking. Good trick to know.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Vaseline on the strips, or leave them out until its cured.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

hm. I just want to point out something here... and please take no offense by it (to each their own) and this is simply my own observation/opinion, but at what point do you draw the line on workarounds for product lacking in what you need it to do? 

This scenario is trivial but I've seen guys go to such extremes as far as workarounds because the product simply fails to do what they need. Not going to be compromising product capabilities at that price. #justhowiseeit

Whats worse... some paints get tacky when its hot out, making them stick to the weather seals long after you painted it. Long past its cure time. It's threads like these that make me realize, remember and appreciate my journey testing product and all the small things that make the difference on the job. 

So. my suggestion is an obvious one.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> hm. I just want to point out something here... and please take no offense by it (to each their own) and this is simply my own observation/opinion, but at what point do you draw the line on workarounds for product lacking in what you need it to do?
> 
> This scenario is trivial but I've seen guys go to such extremes as far as workarounds because the product simply fails to do what they need. Not going to be compromising product capabilities at that price. #justhowiseeit
> 
> ...



Thanks. 

Hence way I put the product I had issues with. In my experience Duration gets gummy in the heat. (as you suggest) Won't use it on a door again. All surface enamel is the reps suggestion. (to be honest I have minimal trust in a reps opinion)

Care to suggest a product? Behr? 

Steel, foam filled exterior door. Never been painted original factory coat with yellowed plastic around the window inserts. Will be painted a deep red. (SW - Show Stopper)


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> or leave them out until its cured.


What I do all the time, in most cases its just a couple of screws. Leave it off for a week if you have to.

Pat


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> The baby powder trick works for all kinds of sticking. Good trick to know.


It will also leave white powder on the edge of your freshly painted door.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

PatsPainting said:


> What I do all the time, in most cases its just a couple of screws. Leave it off for a week if you have to.
> 
> Pat


WTF:blink: So you are going to take somenes front door down for a week?????


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Whats worse... some paints get tacky when its hot out, making them stick to the weather seals long after you painted it. Long past its cure time.


Its called "blocking", and is inherent in _most_ water base paints to some degree. Of course you could switch to oil and eliminate it all the way.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

yeah leavin the door off is some wierd stuff for sure but im also confused as to why you take the screws out>??? why not just pop the pins? :blink:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Hell, in the old days, we'd tell the HO to leave the door open for a week - but that was when someone was always home with the kids and there was no crime in the 'burbs


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> WTF:blink: So you are going to take somenes front door down for a week?????


No, I'm talking about the weather strip that is on the bottom of the door. That little metal piece that slides on and is attached by a few screws.

Pat


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Hey.... Why not taking the weather strip off (that's white plastic foam looking thing between the door, just push it with your 5 in 1 and boom it's off, put it back on at the end of the job or when you come back to collect your $$$) I do this all the time, that way you always have a gap where nothing sticks to anything.


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## Faron79 (Dec 11, 2007)

Yeah-

The Baby/Talcum/Baking-soda dusting works well. 
* A door usually HAS to be closed at night.
* All ya need is a LIGHT dusting...on the actual insulation-strips. Process takes maybe 12 seconds....
* Give as many hours as possible b4 closing door for the night.
* A DEEP color like that MAY take a month to fully cure....with a lot of colorant, that's just the way it is.
* The light dusting may need to be re-applied during that first month. It doesn't take much!

>>> This is the reason cake-pans are dusted after all!

Faron


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

I leave weather stripping out for a while usually. Baby powder works decent though too.


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## promax (Jan 30, 2011)

how about taping on some wax paper doesn't take too long and the paint wont stick, and there is no residue, every paint baring oil that i've used (and i've used most of them) sticks like that, i like the baby powder but the wax works well and you dont have to return and reinstall the strips you've removed, and you dont have customers calling you saying that there door smells like a baby's bottom lol


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> Vaseline on the strips, or leave them out until its cured.


I've heard this many times about the vaseline, but how do you get the vaseline cleaned up? Seems like a mess.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

AztecPainting said:


> Hey.... Why not taking the weather strip off (that's white plastic foam looking thing between the door, just push it with your 5 in 1 and boom it's off, put it back on at the end of the job or when you come back to collect your $$$) I do this all the time, that way you always have a gap where nothing sticks to anything.


This is the only way I have ever done it. And when it is so old that it tears when being pulled out, it's no arm or leg to get a new set. They come precut at Lowes or HD... Easy fix and a MORE satisfied customer. :thumbsup:

Most homes have a dead bolt lock. When locked without the weather stripping, the door can't shut completely against the jam. Let dry over night. Most home owners are willing to reinstall the stripping, knowing your done with the job and need to move on. I don't expect them to but often they offer to do it.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

SW SoLo I painted three doors closed them in thirty mins with weather stripping in no sticking issue, my rep was saying the blocking properties are so good blah blah I gave it a shot, I think it might be my new goto trim and door paint since it is interior/exterior also


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Mike's QP said:


> SW SoLo I painted three doors closed them in thirty mins with weather stripping in no sticking issue, my rep was saying the blocking properties are so good blah blah I gave it a shot, I think it might be my new goto trim and door paint since it is interior/exterior also


I'm wondering if the the Solo is what we call All Surface Enamel in Canada? Your comment of "interior and exterior" sounds like the same characteristics. I just used this for the first time last week and was really impressed. Same as you I'm thinking this is my new to go trim. 

One hour recoat is impressive.

Last week I did a steel door with it and it looked great. You have to be careful and apply thin as it runs easily, but the trade off of that was it levelled out beautifully and looked great. 

BUT....today I did another steel door with it in a dark red. Felt different, didn't cover as well to expected, but is slow to cure. I still wasn't comfortable recoating after 4 hours so I put the hardware back on and reinstalled the door.....will recoat tomorrow.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I'm wondering if the the Solo is what we call All Surface Enamel in Canada? Your comment of "interior and exterior" sounds like the same characteristics. I just used this for the first time last week and was really impressed. Same as you I'm thinking this is my new to go trim.
> 
> One hour recoat is impressive.
> 
> ...


Is this waterborne?


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

The ASE is different SoLo is waterbourne I think the ASE is oil? I will be trying the ASE next week


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Mike's QP said:


> The ASE is different SoLo is waterbourne I think the ASE is oil? I will be trying the ASE next week



We need a Canadian / US translator....seriously.

SW has so many products and due to our French on the label laws for whatever reason they often get renamed when they come across the border.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> Is this waterborne?


ASE I used is waterborne.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> We need a Canadian / US translator....seriously.
> 
> SW has so many products and due to our French on the label laws for whatever reason they often get renamed when they come across the border.
> 
> ASE I used is waterborne.


There is a waterborne and alkyd version of ASE.

I think sologloss is a diff product line?


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

Yes diff product line we have solo and ase in WA


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

ok.

We do not have Solo here. 

Rep said, they are planning on bringing some in. He is going to Calgary for some SW show and would find out then.

They sound like very similar products.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> ok.
> 
> We do not have Solo here.
> 
> Rep said, they are planning on bringing some in. He is going to Calgary for some SW show and would find out then.


I've never used solo. sounds like decent stuff.

I'm still a bennie guy at <3


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> I've never used solo. sounds like decent stuff.
> 
> I'm still a bennie guy at <3


I am on the neverending quest to find the best trim paint at the best price, without the issues I get from most trim paints. Such as... exceptional spray and brush properties sandable block resistance I hate it when I have to worry about my doors sticking if I need to stack or lean them together the next day. So far solo is fitting the bill and I'm not really a SW guy


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

What's a good "go to" 0 VOC trim paint? I have 15 doors and a bit-o trim coming up. I'd use ProClassic as it is my favorite but that chit stinks... This HO needs something for her sensitive nose.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> What's a good "go to" 0 VOC trim paint? I have 15 doors and a bit-o trim coming up. I'd use ProClassic as it is my favorite but that chit stinks... This HO needs something for her sensitive nose.


Try advance by BM I have had good results it is a waterbourne alkyd the highgloss is the worst brushing product known to man but sprays nice the satin is easier for brushing. Its not O voc its Low voc


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