# Pressure washing without access to water



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

I've been thinking about fabricating a mobile pressure washing set up for a while now. Being in a very rural area there's a decent market for this. I have a 500 gal. water tank I plan on using. My question is does anybody know of a good in line pump big enough to feed a 3500 psi washer? Or any suggestion on a reputable pump name to use? Anybody built something like this and have any tips? Thanks in advance guys.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Is your water source going to be from a lake/natural source? Are you going to be doing remote industrial and commercial work that would warrant bringing water to a jobsite?


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

PressurePros said:


> Is your water source going to be from a lake/natural source? Are you going to be doing remote industrial and commercial work that would warrant bringing water to a jobsite?


Water source will be from a coin operated supply. Farmers use it mainly for transporting water when their wells go dry. No industrial/commercial use, mainly for rural farm fences and barns etc where water in unavailable. I know they sell trailer set ups similar to what I'm explaining, I just can't justify spending that much just yet. I would probably only be using it a few time a year. Turned down 2 jobs last summer b/c I didn't feel I could provide a quality paint job without pressure washing. Thanks pressurepro.


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## spotco2 (Sep 18, 2012)

I've had good dealings with Pressure Tek in the past. Might be worth calling them and explaining your setup and see what the recommend.

http://www.pressuretek.com/pumps.html


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Okay.. wanted to make sure I didn't tell you the wrong thing. The pump part is throwing me off a little. If you need to pull water into a tank, any high gpm setup will work. 

Sounds like you are concerned about getting the water from the tank to the machine? The pressure washer will pull water from the tank on its own. Set up a small dual-axle trailer, mount the tank in the front closest to the hitch. Drill a hole to bung through the lowest part of the tank and run a 3/4"-1" line to your machine. You'll need to use an adapter to bring it back down to an input most pressure washers can accept. Gravity and some suction from the pressure washing pump do the rest.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

I would like to add what ken said and recomend using a filter between the tank and machine.


what type of machine do you have a direct drive or belt driven???


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Dave Mac said:


> I would like to add what ken said and recomend using a filter between the tank and machine.
> 
> what type of machine do you have a direct drive or belt driven???


Direct drive. If I spend the $ on a new belt drive can a get away without force feeding the washer? If that's correct I will probably buy a belt drive (planned on purchasing a new washer prior to spring anyways).


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

I know belt drives are better, but I know plainpainter Dan has a direct drive hooked up to a tank especially with some gravity to help it along, but for the long run you are definatly better off with a belt drive wich sucks the crap out of those water tanks,


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Direct drives will pull as well but I couldn't guarantee that on a low gpm (< 4gpm) machine because I have no experience with that. My biggest machines (10 gpm) use direct drive with a gear reducer and they will even pull uphill.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

MIZZOU said:


> Turned down 2 jobs last summer b/c I didn't feel I could provide a quality paint job without pressure washing.


Not so at all. I never use any pressure when washing before a repaint. I use scrapers and sanders to remove paint, not high pressure water, and I use low pressure water, detergent, bleach, and agitation to clean the house prior to painting.


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

mpminter said:


> Not so at all. I never use any pressure when washing before a repaint. I use scrapers and sanders to remove paint, not high pressure water, and I use low pressure water, detergent, bleach, and agitation to clean the house prior to painting.


One was a cow chit covered fence on 35 acres and the other was a 100 year old barn that needed pressure washed IMO. Maybe I'm the only one but I pressure was most all my exteriors. Just the way I was taught


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## Pro Pressure Washing (Oct 3, 2012)

One of my small residential units is a 3k psi and 4 gallon a minute BELT DRIVE machine. It has a general pump and will pull water out of a tank from 9 feet away. Many of the pump spec sheets found on the manufacturers websites will give you this info. I will say that in my experience that only a belt drive unit will pull water, gear reducers being an exception. If you have a direct drive you are going to have to gravity feed it. That means taking the machine off of the trailer/truck and setting it on the ground every time you wash. And a big +1 on the filter, especially when using municipal water supplies or fire hydrants. I have had some nasty stuff come out of a fire hydrant even after bleeding it for a few minutes. And a really big ++1 on contacting Bob at Pressure Tek. Another great resource would be to call Russ at Southside Equipment in KY, USA.


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks for the input everyone. I believe I will be in the market for a shinny new belt drive. As soon as I get my shopping list together I think I'll place an order with pressure tek. Looks like a great American small business with everything i should need. I'll update with pictures of my setup as soon as its done. Thanks again.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

Pro Pressure Washing said:


> One of my small residential units is a 3k psi and 4 gallon a minute BELT DRIVE machine. It has a general pump and will pull water out of a tank from 9 feet away. Many of the pump spec sheets found on the manufacturers websites will give you this info. I will say that in my experience that only a belt drive unit will pull water, gear reducers being an exception. If you have a direct drive you are going to have to gravity feed it. That means taking the machine off of the trailer/truck and setting it on the ground every time you wash. And a big +1 on the filter, especially when using municipal water supplies or fire hydrants. I have had some nasty stuff come out of a fire hydrant even after bleeding it for a few minutes. And a really big ++1 on contacting Bob at Pressure Tek. Another great resource would be to call Russ at Southside Equipment in KY, USA.


As long as the tank sits up higher than the pump everything can be mounted and WILL function properly. That being said, belt drives are better for longevity and reliability. Which ever route you go, plumb your unloader back to the top side of the tank..


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## Sirocco Jerry (Sep 10, 2011)

I can lend a hand here, as I teach reliabilty is pump systems..

Yes, slower-speed pumps are better, esapecially belt drive, 
as NO heat from the engine is added to the crankcase of the pump. 

Yes, the pump can draw water on its own, but..
.. it is designed to use all horsepower to push water OUT,
.. NOT wastefully sucking it through a smallish 1" several feet from the tank..

Use a 1.25" hose for going 5 to 10 feet from the tank,
with a BIG filter, .. 1" BlueTop works nice,
and split the feed line into 2ea. 3/4" lines to EACH side of the head of the pump.
"The Prefect WAter Supply".. will save strain on the motor, will save strain on the pump, will eliminate cavitation damage on the water seals and valves,
and you can be reliable for your customers,
Profitably

I have kits available for all the above.
The most successful do-it-yourselfer.. has *tech*nical support.
:{)


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