# First Stain Job



## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

Cedar that is badly weathered as you can see from the pics. 
Is there a one-step process to cleaning it?
Or do I need to clean mildew and dirt first, then go back and get tannins out?

Owner doesn't know last time it was stained, but the house was built in 1991. Looks like a white cedar that was stained red(ish) at one point.

If you have further comments on prep process I would invite your knowledge.

Thank you for any feedback!


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I'd use this
http://www.messmers.com/messmers-wood-cleaner-and-brightener


But there are guys here that do more of this kinda work than I do..so hold on.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Will you be applying a natural/semi-trans stain or something more opaque, like a solid stain or paint?


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## luny2nz (Nov 14, 2008)

Be careful not to destroy the wood with your pressure cleaner. Your second picture looks like start/stop marks. Feather the spray to the wood. 
I use products like Steve recommended with great results.
Let the chemicals do there work and rinse them off. I prefer more volume than pressure. 
I use a scrub brush on the end of a pole to swish along the grain as I go.
All the cleaners and brighteners will be landing on the deck so you might as well do it too.
Sanding might be a good idea,and we go through and tighten all the boards before staining. 
Post your "after" pictures so we can see how awesome it turned out.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Bleach & dish-soap either downstreamed or applied via garden sprayer, then pressure-wash to prep for paint or solid stain.

Sodium Hydroxide & Oxylic Acid if you're prepping for trans/semi-trans stain.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Bleach & dish-soap either downstreamed or applied via garden sprayer, then pressure-wash to prep for paint or solid stain.
> 
> Sodium Hydroxide & Oxylic Acid if you're prepping for trans/semi-trans stain.


 Whats your mix for Sikkens? I have a complete strip coming up this spring.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You can do a much better job cleaning that siding. Start searching for threads, stelzerpainting gave you the short version. There are few great threads in the PW section.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We did one this past summer almost as bad. Unpainted for 10-15 yrs, nasty, dirty, moldy house. It took us a couple tries in a few spots to get it clean. We used a combo of bleach, dish soap and water for the first round. We had a few different types of cleaners on hand and depending on the stubborn part would determine what we used. We usually don't carry all the different cleaners around we just so happen to have them with us.


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

Bleach & dish-soap, what ever you use for cleaning, you still need a wood Brightener to balance the PH of the woods.
If you going to use a waterborne solid stain I would highly recommend you to use tinted oil primer before and let it dry at least 24 hours.


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Will you be applying a natural/semi-trans stain or something more opaque, like a solid stain or paint?


We are leaning towards a solid stain.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Boco said:


> Whats your mix for Sikkens? I have a complete strip coming up this spring.


Sodium Hydroxide/Percarbonate Blend. The amount of time I let it dwell varies greatly though, depending upon a number of factors.


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Will you be applying a natural/semi-trans stain or something more opaque, like a solid stain or paint?


Stelzer...if I go with the solid stain, what is your prep process? Sorry if you answered this but I didn't see anything. Also, would you primer as one person suggested?


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

small thought...I've used straight chlorine from pool supply shops.
effective!


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Bleach & dish-soap either downstreamed or applied via garden sprayer, then pressure-wash to prep for paint or solid stain.
> 
> Sodium Hydroxide & Oxylic Acid if you're prepping for trans/semi-trans stain.


Sorry you answered my question on cleaning here for solid stain. Would love to hear about priming or not for solid stain. If I use an oxygen bleach should I still mix with a dish soap?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Clean, prep, oil primer, 2 coats of solid. Arborcoat has been good to me.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

TCPaint said:


> Sorry you answered my question on cleaning here for solid stain. Would love to hear about priming or not for solid stain. If I use an oxygen bleach should I still mix with a dish soap?


Whether or not I'd prime first would depend upon my top-coat being a latex or an oil-based solid stain. I'd definitely oil-prime if you plan to use a water-based solid stain as your top-coat, (given the condition of that siding and the amount of raw wood). PremierPaintingMa gave you a great tip by suggesting you tint the primer to match your top-coat, and that you wait a minimum of 24 hrs before trying to apply any stain over your primer. After the primer has dried, check thoroughly for tannin-bleed and spot-prime if/where needed.

As far as whether or not to use dish soap with an oxygenated bleach, I'd always suggest using dish soap with bleach. The soap will allow the bleach to cling to the surface, rather than just dripping down, which makes the whole process more effective & efficient. Remember to apply your chems starting at the bottom, going to top, then rinse from top to bottom.


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

PRC said:


> Clean, prep, oil primer, 2 coats of solid. Arborcoat has been good to me.


Thank you! If I prime first, do I need to spray and back roll/brush the two stain coats? Or can I just spray them?


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

I think this is my last question...

Is the process longer if we go with a solid stain? Seems like solid stain requires more steps in the process?

Semi-trans seems to require stripping (assume this cleans at same time) and then 1 coat of stain? Maybe I'm way off here?

Thank for helping me out on this!


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

TCPaint said:


> Thank you! If I prime first, do I need to spray and back roll/brush the two stain coats? Or can I just spray them?


TCPaint, it is always good to back brush/roll this way you make sure the top surface if bonding to the primer.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

TCPaint said:


> Thank you! If I prime first, do I need to spray and back roll/brush the two stain coats? Or can I just spray them?



I've seen many opinions on here about back roll/brush on wood siding after spray. I don't spray clapboards so maybe someone else will know. The thing spray won't do is bridge some imperfections and unless you are a skilled you may end up with inconsistent film build.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

TCPaint said:


> I think this is my last question...
> 
> Is the process longer if we go with a solid stain? Seems like solid stain requires more steps in the process?
> 
> ...


I personally like semi-transparent. Sometimes 1 coat, other times 2. I did 2 coats semi on all sides before install when I built my home. Been 8 years and it's time for a coat next year. I won't be stripping. Stripping can raise grain and increase prep. Sometimes it's necessary.


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## Ohio Painter (Dec 22, 2014)

I would wash it and apply SW Stain Remover with a pump sprayer then neutralize it with SW Restore, power wash it off without blasting the wood. You will have a great looking surface ready to take stain. Not a cheap process. 

I would plan on using a solid stain. I have also had excellent results with SW Log Home Stain.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Speaking as the board's resident top-hack...If I were going long-oil primer and solid stain, I'd say get the dirt off, and it's pretty much ready to go.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

TCPaint said:


> I think this is my last question...
> 
> Is the process longer if we go with a solid stain? Seems like solid stain requires more steps in the process?
> 
> ...



If you go with a semi-trans the prep work would be a lot more involved. All the old stain would need to be removed, which means a two step washing process at minimum. Oxalic brighteners can work wonders on cedar but you may find those dark water stains to be stubborn and they would stick out like a sore thumb under semi-trans. 

Prep for solid could be as easy as bleach and wash. Knock the dirt off and go, as Steve put it 

It looks like there are some water stains in unusual places on the siding. Looks like one on the right side of that window and in the inside corner more than half way up. To me that suggests a gutter leak or some other problem with the roof or flashing. Need to fix that first if its not been done already. 

Couple tips if you've not P-washed stuff like that much. 

Do the deck first so it doesn't get spotted up from chems going on the siding. Keep the cleaned deck wet while chems are being applied to the house. 

After you have everything washed and rinsed off, rinse it again. Then, rinse it again. The wood hair created from P-washing cedar is incredibly tenacious. You'll think you have it all rinsed off and when it dries its still everywhere. If you let the wood hair dry on the gutters or the wrapped facia it can be a pain to remove. Plus it likes to hide down in the grain of the cedar. Rinse, rinse, rinse!


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Jmayspaint said:


> Prep for solid could be as easy as bleach and wash. Knock the dirt off and go, as Steve put it


 I don't think I'd wanna get it wet. Some of that looks like it'd swell up like Chrisn's knee on a hot day.

Maybe run a sander over it, and blow off the dust.

What's the deal on the decking, TC? Are you doing it too?


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

Steve Richards said:


> I don't think I'd wanna get it wet. Some of that looks like it'd swell up like Chrisn's knee on a hot day.
> 
> Maybe run a sander over it, and blow off the dust.
> 
> What's the deal on the decking, TC? Are you doing it too?


Not doing the deck; they're going to replace it. Which means another stain job down the road...


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

PremierPaintingMa said:


> TCPaint, it is always good to back brush/roll this way you make sure the top surface if bonding to the primer.


Do I need to back brush/roll the primer or just spray?


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

Do your stain warranties differ from your paint warranties? If so, how?

Thanks!


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

TCPaint said:


> Do I need to back brush/roll the primer or just spray?


It's very important to back brush the primer this way will bond better to the wood.
As for warranty is the same most of the new waterborne solid stain is good.
I use Arborcoat most of the time or WoodScapes.


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

This job was done with Arbocaot solid stain.
Full coat of tinted oil base fresh start, full coat of solid stain.


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

PremierPaintingMa said:


> This job was done with Arbocaot solid stain.
> Full coat of tinted oil base fresh start, full coat of solid stain.


Looks great! I hope I can talk them into a brighter color like that...just more fun to apply!


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## TCPaint (Aug 28, 2014)

PremierPaintingMa said:


> This job was done with Arbocaot solid stain.
> Full coat of tinted oil base fresh start, full coat of solid stain.


Based on this pic attached, what do you think I'm dealing with? Can't tell if that was a solid or trans stain in the reddish color. Thoughts? Looks like semi-trans.

I haven't been to the property yet...I'm visiting the property this weekend, so will test if stain is oil or latex...but...if that reddish stain is latex is it ok to put an oil primer over it? I assume I'll have to stick with latex primer. The owner has zero knowledge of the stain and can't ask the previous homeowner for whatever reason.


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

It doesn't matter what they use barely any color left.
Oil primer will stick to latex paint you will have no problem. 
Don't forget to put a little paint thiner with the oil primer.
Just make sure you let it dry before you put the final coat.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

TCPaint said:


> I haven't been to the property yet...I'm visiting the property this weekend,


The HO sent you the pics in the OP?



TCPaint said:


> so will test if stain is oil or latex..


How?
I don't think the "alcohol test" will work cuz that color would come off with some spit too.

PP's right..it doesn't matter if you use an oil primer

Nice lookin' blue house BTW PP.:thumbsup:


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## PRECISIONVANCOUVER (Apr 15, 2013)

PremierPaintingMa said:


> This job was done with Arbocaot solid stain.
> Full coat of tinted oil base fresh start, full coat of solid stain.


That looks awesome!


Great job!


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