# elmers carpenter wood filler



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Got some of this for exerior trim nail fills. Is it supposed to come out of the container on the dry side or did I get a bad batch? Its kinda like dry playdough. First time using it. Thanks.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I think the lid was compromised or yes, it's a bad batch. It will get like that after about three or four month of being opened and closed a fair amount. Should be fairly moist and not dry at all when new. Take it back.
Dan


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

It sounds too dry. When you open one for the first time it should feel pretty easy to scoop and apply. It starts hardening up fast though. If you aren't diligent with the lid, that container will dry to a play dough consistency in a day.


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## jenni (Aug 4, 2011)

definitely take it back. its not supposed to be dry at all. its sticky and taffy-like when its right.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

researchhound said:


> I think the lid was compromised or yes, it's a bad batch. It will get like that after about three or four month of being opened and closed a fair amount. Should be fairly moist and not dry at all when new. Take it back.
> Dan


Beat me by seconds!....


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

It should be similar to crawfords spackle - like a past. even when this stuff drys out a bit from storage you can always just add a little water to it. Its no big deal.

Pat


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I just added a bit of water and its alot better now. Didnt wanna make an extra trip to exchange it. I picked it up on the fly at a little hardware store. This is a quickie trim job, last minute deal. 

Question: is this stuff designed to be applied to bare wood or are you supposed to prime first? Doesn' t say anything on the container.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I tend to be old school on this and prefer to prime first but it can likely be used on bare wood just fine. Nothing on Elmer's site about it. Lots of [email protected] about facebook, twitter, sharing with friends, and "liking" their site, but no product specs...


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> I just added a bit of water and its alot better now. Didnt wanna make an extra trip to exchange it. I picked it up on the fly at a little hardware store. This is a quickie trim job, last minute deal.
> 
> Question: is this stuff designed to be applied to bare wood or are you supposed to prime first? Doesn' t say anything on the container.


I don't know how others will reply, but personally I don't trust it in the long term. Tomorrow I can take some pics of some 1" holes patches by it. Looked fine for the first month, but now in fall are cracking. 

TJ - in our environment with the radical temp changes and expansion and contractions, I'd use any product like that, that drys hard...sparingly. It simply doesn't move with the wood. 

As in, I'm not sure priming or not priming will make much difference. It's essentially a glue composite. 

Nothing solid to back me up on this....just my gut talking....


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

It will sand easier over primer vs bare wood.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I don't know how others will reply, but personally I don't trust it in the long term. Tomorrow I can take some pics of some 1" holes patches by it. Looked fine for the first month, but now in fall are cracking.
> 
> TJ - in our environment with the radical temp changes and expansion and contractions, I'd use any product like that, that drys hard...sparingly. It simply doesn't move with the wood.
> 
> ...


What do you think would be better to use on ext?


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> What do you think would be better to use on ext?


Wish a had a better answer. 

I use the Elmer's you describe. I've tried a LePages product and something I can't remember (Mike's Hard Wood...or something) Elmer's seems the easiest to apply and sand. 

Sometimes if the hole is 'bigger' I'll put a few deck screws in the hole to act as rebar.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Sometimes if the hole is 'bigger' I'll put a few deck screws in the hole to act as rebar.


not a bad idea


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I will say I only use it for interior because that's all I do. Not sure it would be my choice for exterior. 
I have used it a lot for repairing molding that's been damaged and never had an issue with it. It's also my choice for filling nail holes in trim.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

If it ever comes in contact with water it will most likely fail. Also if the nail moves it will push it out. Caulking is what I would use. If the holes are real deep/big tell the builder he's fired.

For flush fills that I need to last I use bondo.


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> What do you think would be better to use on ext?


Oil putties supposedly don't dry out and are therefore more flexible. People swear by bondo. 

If you ever get a real answer to that, for the love of god let me know!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

It does last well on interior work. I used some to fill in some chipped paint on my office widow trim and also a full very thin skim coat on the top side of the stool and after three (?) years still looking as good as new.

Few weeks ago, I ran into an unexpected wall repair and all I had was some dried up Elmers. I "reconstituted" it with some wall paper paste and used it. Who knows what will happen. 

But I'm the type of guy who has mixed Durabond with Gardz just to see what would happen. It worked and no call back - - yet.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

BreatheEasyHP said:


> People swear by bondo.


Who needs a carpenter when you have bondo......:whistling2:


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## paint pros (Aug 17, 2011)

I used bondo on a exterior window repair. Sand it down primed and painted it. It came out fine. Came back out a few months later to do some additonal interior work for the client. The bondo on the window still looked good. But I live in the south and the weather is not as harsh down here as it is in the midwest.


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

paint pros said:


> I used bondo on a exterior window repair. Sand it down primed and painted it. It came out fine. Came back out a few months later to do some additonal interior work for the client. The bondo on the window still looked good. But I live in the south and the weather is not as harsh down here as it is in the midwest.


In the PNW, there's so much moisture here for so much of the year I'm fairly concerned about the expansion and contraction of wood and hard fillers. 

I just wish carpenters knew about back-priming!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I gotta say I was impressed with this stuff. I had some larger fills on some door jambs and two applications with a easy sand was all it took. Doesn't flash that bad either. 

Will it endure the insurmountable winters here in the Northland? Well, nothing does really...


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## woi2ld (Oct 1, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> I gotta say I was impressed with this stuff. I had some larger fills on some door jambs and two applications with a easy sand was all it took. Doesn't flash that bad either.
> 
> Will it endure the insurmountable winters here in the Northland? Well, nothing does really...


tj , is that the elmers filler you wer talking about.? we used super glue for small fills like pin-holes and a little bigger stuff on guitar bodies , but that was over the clear primer and you wer sanding seconds later. I've been using Dynatron X-Grip lately(made by 3M), and i can say its wicked strong compared to any fillers ive ever used , once dried on your fingers , your skin has to come off with it, serious! bout 16-20$ gallon. and if u want it glaze smooth , buy a pint of 'evercoat honey' to add to it.


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