# got a deep red paint tone issue



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ok. Interior repaint. going to paint over a wall that has a deep red color on there. I'm using another deep red color over it. I made the mistake of putting some paint on the wall with a brush as a sample. She didn't like the first red. So now we got a red she likes. I put a coat of it on but the sample areas are showing through since it was a eggshell sheen and she decided on a matte. 

Question: what should I do to get a uniform finish and to eliminate the other red flashing? I was thinking of a light sand to even out the flashing areas and just another coat of red. 

Or should I do a light sand, and then just prime the wall and then recoat? I haven't done deep tones like this for awhile. I feel like a noob all over again. Plus, I'm trying to do this without priming.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

is it completely dry? that spot will take longer to dry down


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> is it completely dry? that spot will take longer to dry down


its all dry for several days


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Ouch,back to square 1.prime & paint!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> Ouch,back to square 1.prime & paint!


yeah, thats what I thought. lol. Actually, I was thinking about just getting some Aura and that might do it after sanding. I'm using Regal Matte right now. Probably the same difference. Even if I have to do two coats, it eliminates the separate prime step.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

maybe just another coat?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

lol. I'd like to just try another coat, since its only a small accent wall. I guess it wouldn't hurt. If that don't work, I guess I know what needs to be done.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Another coat should be fine, but I would spot that part that is flashing first and let it dry in before the final coat.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> Another coat should be fine, but I would spot that part that is flashing first and let it dry in before the final coat.


spot with the paint?


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> spot with the paint?


Go with the Aura. Might get it in one .


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

Anothe coat should do it . I ve had good luck with Regal Matte,

steve


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## M.Pillow (Jul 7, 2010)

I've had this happen exactly the same way, applying samples of a deep navy with a brush and having one of the sample patches be visible. 

I lightly sanded the patch and re coated the wall and was fine. I think it was more of having that extra coating build up rather than an issue with shading though. 

It was BM Aquavelvet btw.


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## FoilEffects (Dec 19, 2007)

I will give you just a little advise for the future which you will love how happy it will make your client. When testing new colors, never do them on the wall (it doesnt really matter as far as the wall goes) instead do them on poster board in like a 2'x 2' square or at least a 1' x 2' piece. WHY you ask? Well on top of looking really smart, you are giving the customer something that she can carry around to choose other things for the room, trust me when I say she will be excited to have it and it only costs you a buck!

When it comes to reds here is how I handle if I am not going to prime. If you get a drywall sanding pole and like 220-360 grit paper scuff the wall completely, this does a number things other then just giving the wall tooth for the new finish. It also reveals nail pops which you should fix and gets rid of ridges, bumps and rough spots from the previous paint job.

Just my thoughts on this. A little more effort even on an accent wall offers you the opportunity to do the entire house if it ever comes up.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

FoilEffects said:


> When testing new colors, never do them on the wall (it doesnt really matter as far as the wall goes) instead do them on poster board in like a 2'x 2' square or at least a 1' x 2' piece.
> Good idea.
> 
> 
> ...


I did the entire first floor already, this is the last wall.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> spot with the paint?


 Yea spot with the paint. Agree with MNpainter, regal matte is one of my favorite HQ paints.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Total DIY? :jester::laughing:


I would spot it as well with the paint and then another coat over entire wall after spot was dry.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> Total DIY? :jester::laughing:
> 
> 
> I would spot it as well with the paint and then another coat over entire wall after spot was dry.


I know right? lol. Its been so long since I've done a ultra deep red interior. Forgot how to do it.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I'd rip out the spot, hang new rock, tape mud, texture, prime and paint. :jester: 
I prob would prime, and final paint. It's only one wall.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ewingpainting.net said:


> I'd rip out the spot, hang new rock, tape mud, texture, prime and paint. :jester:
> I prob would prime, and final paint. It's only one wall.


but, then I'd have to spend $3 on a new roller cover. Gotta watch direct materials cost.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Lowballer. :jester:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

speaking of which, when you got a deep red, do you guys prime with a grey primer for the red coverage? 

Btw, if spotting and another coat don't work, I'm just gonna go with aura, two coats.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

> speaking of which, when you got a deep red, do you guys prime with a grey primer for the red coverage?


Yes. Or, depending on color, will mask off and spray (seriously). I've sprayed red bathrooms and it took less time than 3 coats brushed and rolled.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

VanDamme said:


> Yes. Or, depending on color, will mask off and spray (seriously). I've sprayed red bathrooms and it took less time than 3 coats brushed and rolled.


I agree, plus by the time your done you've literally changed the texture with the heavy mills.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

FoilEffects said:


> When testing new colors, never do them on the wall



This is my philosophy as well.

Why create more work for yourself. You should be doing everything as uniformly as possible. Putting a spot in the middle of the wall is not uniform.

Plus a lot of times the Homeowners want to put the paint samples up.

So I give them 8.5 by 11 sheets of cardstock. Sometimes I paint them for them, or I advise them to paint them in their garage, let them dry then take them around.

Plus this way they don't have to put them in every room. A lot of times they will want to put the same weveral colors in different rooms or areas to see how they look in different areas. By just having the pieces of painted card stock, they can just take them around to different rooms, tack them up with blue tape, and stand back and look at them.

I worked for this guy for a while who would always advise the customers to paint patches on the wall. Drove me crazy. I can't count how many times I had to try to get several spots in the middle of the wall not to flash.

No matter how many times I mentioned it, he would just keep defaulting to that play book of having them paint samples on the wall. To this day I don't think he has learned it.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> speaking of which, when you got a deep red, do you guys prime with a grey primer for the red coverage?



That is what they say to do. I don't like it, all though it is better than not doing anything.

The grey can actually look black under the first red coat, and still look black under the second red coat.

I like to get very flat paint mixed in an identical color to the finish paint and paint the wall until it is covered with no variation.

Then paint the finish on top. Or you can just talk them into using flat, and this will solve the entire problem from the outset.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I just spotted and did another coat with the same paint (Regal Matte). It worked fine. I was overreacting, since I only had one coat on anyways.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> speaking of which, when you got a deep red, do you guys prime with a grey primer for the red coverage?
> 
> Btw, if spotting and another coat don't work, I'm just gonna go with aura, two coats.




One coat of Stix gray primer and Two coats of Aura :thumbup:


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> I did the entire first floor already, this is the last wall.


Seems like it always goes that way.  Last wall, last door, etc. and you hit a roadblock. :blink:


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> I agree, plus by the time your done you've literally changed the texture with the heavy mills.


Another advantage is all your lines are super crisp and straight.


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

i hate red have had some similar problems with under coat or prime coat looking black it just means another extracoat try to roll it out as evenly as posible it helps me


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I know if the paint under is not cured it can make whatever you add to the top could flash, but you should be ok just to repaint it.


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## Faron79 (Dec 11, 2007)

*YES...Gray primer...*

If we're makin' a "Red" paint, we don't let people out the door without a Gray primer; OR, at least asking if they or their painter have some.

Depending on the nature/formula of the Red, I've got a couple fave formula's for Gray-primer. Also depends what primer-situation is called for too...

We RARELY get complaints because of this practice! We DO sometimes hear..."they never told me that at 'store x'"!

Paint samples on the wall?! We suggest against this too.
* Foam-Pro has a couple different foam-board sizes for painting on that we sell.
* That "extra layer(s)" of sample-paint can sometimes be visible no matter what you do. Even if someone feather-sands the edges, the slight difference in the coatings' height can be discerned at some angles.
* Still...it's tough to stop the customers urge to "get the paint on the wall" mentality...:whistling2:

Faron


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

for any deep reds or burgundy I alway do a first coat of gray. Hig build cheap paint will do. Then if possible 2 coats of exterior, depending upon ventilation. Seems to have more solids right? As for sample swatches all over the place I try to find something close to original wall color and do a wide coats over those areas thereby blocking most of the dark rectangles etc.


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## kerk (Oct 14, 2009)

painterdude said:


> for any deep reds or burgundy I alway do a first coat of gray. Hig build cheap paint will do. Then if possible 2 coats of exterior, depending upon ventilation. Seems to have more solids right? As for sample swatches all over the place I try to find something close to original wall color and do a wide coats over those areas thereby blocking most of the dark rectangles etc.


A 'high build' first coat I can buy, but I would avoid the 'cheap' part.

By using a cheap high build (which is basically the description of new construction 'blow and go' grade interior apartment paint) you are basically building a house on a foundation of sand.

An extreme, even ridiculous analogy, would be to paint a section of a beach with the worlds greatest exterior house paint. The paint sticks to the sand just great, but......

I once serviced a complaint from a homeowner who had bought some extremely expensive 'real' grass cloth wallcovering at one of our stores, as well as the clear adhesive.

When I got there, the grass cloth was coming loose almost everywhere. The clear adhesive adhered fine. What didn't adhere was the low grade flat wall paint, which was now being transferred to the back of the grass cloth. 

Adhesion is even more critical than hide. Hide you can deal with while you're still on the job.........adhesion, if a problem, you'll have to deal with next year.

Good paint on top of low resin, high clay, cheap paint........it's like priming with liquid chalk.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

not talking about builder grade paint by cheap I guess i mean cheaper. I did a ton of paper removal ini Boca in the '80's and 90's for just the same reasons. Of course in this topic why would you put grasscloth or any other wall covering if you are spending money to put 3 coats of paint on a wall? I don't think even a cheap base coat would come off under 2 finish coats of exterior?. pd


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## bay area contractor (Sep 19, 2009)

Prime the entire wall with a dark grey. Then paint 2-3 coats of red.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

I wonder if you could repaint the whole wall with a clear of some sort. Stays Clear, Diamond Finish, Shellac?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> I wonder if you could repaint the whole wall with a clear of some sort. Stays Clear, Diamond Finish, Shellac?


This projects been done for a couple months, check cleared and money spent.:thumbsup:

I think a coat of guardz would've done the trick if the spot paint and then one finish coat after didn't.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

Thanks for the updates, I did realize that this was old (I finally got hip to checkin' the dates), but I figured maybe someone might do a search someday.
And yes it is all about getting the checkles my brother.


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