# Nc clear satin



## lilpaintchic

Anyone got any ideas on an interior satin clear coat with a uv protectant? I just want something that'll hold up a little better on the clad windows/case than lacquer does but I want it as ez to work with...asking too much? 

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## PACman

lilpaintchic said:


> Anyone got any ideas on an interior satin clear coat with a uv protectant? I just want something that'll hold up a little better on the clad windows/case than lacquer does but I want it as ez to work with...asking too much?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Fixall (formerly Graham) Ceramithane Aquaborne has a UV inhibitive in it. But if you must, Helmsman Poly is UV resistant to a certain extent. They advertise the crap out of it that way anyhow. It's more UV resistant than the regular Minnywax poly. That's not saying much though.

(Also, if you want to keep using lacquer, try a CAB-acrylic lacquer) (shhhhh-our secret!)


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## Woodco

Defthane. best poly out there. You could use their waterborne interior/exterior poly. Not as easy to work with as lacquer, though, but nothing is.


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## CApainter

I find that the waterborne polyurethanes like Rustoleum's Diamond Varathane (formerly Flecto) works really well for your type of application. And it's one of the few clear finishes that will go over lacquer. Check out the TDS.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/f1/f1b1071a-5036-4c30-af26-894374bb5aff.pdf


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## lilpaintchic

Decisions, decisions.... I've got a mill pack that I get to prefinish (yipee) it's NC but owner occupied so I wanna give em the best bang for the buck but I want to make my dough too....ill check out the suggestions from all of you. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction all!

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## PNW Painter

Have you thought about sending it to a pre-finisher and then marking it up? A pre-finishing company would probably use a CV that'll be more bomb proof than just about anything you'd use.


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## ridesarize

What about Zar Ultra Max? It does have an amber tone after but it's easy to use, first coat sands easy, dries fast, sprays good with a 308 and practice. 2 coats for minimal specs, 3 gets nicer and smoother. 

Brushing works it into the grain better but spraying is obviously faster.


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## lilpaintchic

PNW Painter said:


> Have you thought about sending it to a pre-finisher and then marking it up? A pre-finishing company would probably use a CV that'll be more bomb proof than just about anything you'd use.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The windows are installed, I have about 2200ln ft of base, 36 doors and case and all the liners and case for the windows . ..they can't send it out, they're bringing me in!

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## PNW Painter

With that amount if work you might want to look into Valspar Zenith Coversion Varnish. Rodda carries it in Seattle.

Here's a link to the data sheet:
http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam...H WATERBORNE CLEAR CONVERSION VARNISH TDS.pdf

Several months I used it to spray several Fir doors during a demo my Rodda rep set up. It was easy to use and within about 1.5 hrs we applied 3 coats. 

One of the other Rodda reps used to work for Valspar and shared a lot pointers during the demo. I'm happy share more info if anyone is interested.


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## Stonehampaintdept

Woodco said:


> Defthane. best poly out there. You could use their waterborne interior/exterior poly. Not as easy to work with as lacquer, though, but nothing is.


I agree. Did a sample brush out of this water based urethane and liked it. Easy to use, leveled nice and dried hard.


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## CApainter

I'm surprised futtyos hasn't recommended GARDZ.


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## DeanV

Another option if UV is your primary concern is ModerMasters Master Clear Supreme. Supremely expensive though.


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## woodcoyote

Are you looking for a particular type, solvent/oil or water based? 

If you can do a water top coat. Honestly, I would do the General Finishes 450 Exterior Clear. 

You won't have any fading and it holds up well to moisture as well, in the event a window is left open and rain or something comes in. I generally use an exterior sealant on something that won't be used/touched much, but will be exposed to sun etc.

Another option for water based in case you need some blocking characteristics (aka more durable) would be Kem Aqua Plus+. The stuff is pretty stout and comes with some UV absorbers. 

If you have a mix of wood that will be used and wood that won't, like a window sill and moulding...just buy 1 product. My vote would be for the Kem Aqua Plus+. 


Valzpar's wood finish division (Zenith, etc.) has been spun off to Axalta just recently. So not sure how that's going to turn out, etc. I'd skip it for now.


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## lilpaintchic

I can use whatever I want....i want something super easy to use, quick recoat and ez to touch up preferably with a if protestant of some sort but that's probably just me over thinking it.
I generally don't do NC and have little experience in the wood work realm aside from touch ups and tying new into existing finishes (remodeling)...i lacquered about 1500ln ft of base about 15 years ago but that's really the extent of my experience with a boatload of new stuff.
This one is all fir, no stain color, just clear finish so I appreciate any guidance you all have. 
One question I have....its all ready sanded, do I apply a sanding sealer first over Benite(sp)? Do I even need to use Benite since there's no stain or can I just get straight to clear? 

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## lilpaintchic

Again, I appreciate all your guys input. Like, like, like to all of you.

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## woodcoyote

lilpaintchic said:


> This one is all fir, no stain color, just clear finish so I appreciate any guidance you all have.





lilpaintchic said:


> One question I have....its all ready sanded, do I apply a sanding sealer first over Benite(sp)? Do I even need to use Benite since there's no stain or can I just get straight to clear?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


With no colorant, don't worry about Benite. It's just a wood conditioner from what I just looked up, you'll only need that if you plan on staining the wood. 

Question for you: Do you plan on spraying this stuff or brush/roll? 

If you plan on brush/roll for waterbased stuff I would think about getting an extender/retarder as it has a tendency to dry fast, same with lacquers but generally not as bad as lacquers. 

My personal opinion is spray waterbased finishes. They dry relatively fast, easy sand/recoat, easy cleanup (water). And they don't have an odor that lingers in the house or spray area for hours afterwards.

Edit:
If you get a good quality sealer, you can apply two coats with sanding inbetween. Most wood work we do will typically have 2 top coats applied with no sanding sealer. 

The sanding sealers do help to make it easier to sand, but I find it hard to tell the difference between using them and not using them, it basically comes down to cost. Sanding sealers are usually cheaper than the top coats, so instead of burning through a lot of top coat product, you put a sanding sealer down that costs less money, with the good stuff on top. They do make it easier to sand, but is negligible in my opinion.


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## PNW Painter

Another option would be Rudd, which is sold through Miller. They have a Waterborne line called NuWave as well as a wide range of CV's and Lacquers. They're manufacturing plant is in Ballard and they have an amazing sundries/service store. The guys that work there knowledge about sprayers is second to none and they stock a huge amount of parts. 

Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua is another good choice, like woodcoyote mentioned. I'm not sure who your SW rep is, but you might want to have them connect you with someone at Product Finishes location in Seattle. I haven't been there, but this store specialized in their wood products and deals more with OEM type clients.

I'm in a similar boat where all my wood finishing experience is very limited. I'm currently in the middle of finishing my first large scale wood finishing project. It's a Fir trim pack for large remodel project. I'm using Rubio Monocoat for this project. It's a hard wax finish that is more commonly used as a floor finish. The application is similar to waxing a car. Wipe it on, wait 10-15 min and wipe off any excess. It's been a huge PITA and it's screwed up my entire summer schedule because it's so labor intensive to apply.





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## DeanV

lilpaintchic said:


> I can use whatever I want....i want something super easy to use, quick recoat and ez to touch up preferably with a if protestant of some sort but that's probably just me over thinking it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


What about if a Catholic or Eastern Orthodox person wants to apply it? Is that ok?


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## lilpaintchic

DeanV said:


> What about if a Catholic or Eastern Orthodox person wants to apply it? Is that ok?


Lolol....fine, but only if they'll do it for 1/4 of what I'm charging so I can make a few bucks

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## lilpaintchic

PNW Painter said:


> Another option would be Rudd, which is sold through Miller. They have a Waterborne line called NuWave as well as a wide range of CV's and Lacquers. They're manufacturing plant is in Ballard and they have an amazing sundries/service store. The guys that work there knowledge about sprayers is second to none and they stock a huge amount of parts.
> 
> Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua is another good choice, like woodcoyote mentioned. I'm not sure who your SW rep is, but you might want to have them connect you with someone at Product Finishes location in Seattle. I haven't been there, but this store specialized in their wood products and deals more with OEM type clients.
> 
> I'm in a similar boat where all my wood finishing experience is very limited. I'm currently in the middle of finishing my first large scale wood finishing project. It's a Fir trim pack for large remodel project. I'm using Rubio Monocoat for this project. It's a hard wax finish that is more commonly used as a floor finish. The application is similar to waxing a car. Wipe it on, wait 10-15 min and wipe off any excess. It's been a huge PITA and it's screwed up my entire summer schedule because it's so labor intensive to apply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for reminding me about rudd!!!! They just repacked one of my pumps a few months ago. I was super impressed with their store, I totally forgot about them! 

All good info, guys. I do appreciate it. Long work day, I'm beat but I'm sure I'll have more questions.
And ty for the confirmation about not needing benite wc.It didn't make sense to me as I'm not staining but I figured I'd check into it to be sure...


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## lilpaintchic

woodcoyote said:


> With no colorant, don't worry about Benite. It's just a wood conditioner from what I just looked up, you'll only need that if you plan on staining the wood.
> 
> Question for you: Do you plan on spraying this stuff or brush/roll?
> 
> If you plan on brush/roll for waterbased stuff I would think about getting an extender/retarder as it has a tendency to dry fast, same with lacquers but generally not as bad as lacquers.
> 
> My personal opinion is spray waterbased finishes. They dry relatively fast, easy sand/recoat, easy cleanup (water). And they don't have an odor that lingers in the house or spray area for hours afterwards.
> 
> Edit:
> If you get a good quality sealer, you can apply two coats with sanding inbetween. Most wood work we do will typically have 2 top coats applied with no sanding sealer.
> 
> The sanding sealers do help to make it easier to sand, but I find it hard to tell the difference between using them and not using them, it basically comes down to cost. Sanding sealers are usually cheaper than the top coats, so instead of burning through a lot of top coat product, you put a sanding sealer down that costs less money, with the good stuff on top. They do make it easier to sand, but is negligible in my opinion.


Spray everything. Which clear would you suggest that I can use on everything that might have a bit of uv protectant in it?

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## PACman

lilpaintchic said:


> Spray everything. Which clear would you suggest that I can use on everything that might have a bit of uv protectant in it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


wasn't that what your first question was? :vs_laugh:


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## CApainter

For real, check out Diamond Varathane. You can pick up a quart at Home Depot.....at ease PAC!


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## lilpaintchic

PACman said:


> wasn't that what your first question was? :vs_laugh:


That was days ago! 

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## woodcoyote

lilpaintchic said:


> Spray everything. Which clear would you suggest that I can use on everything that might have a bit of uv protectant in it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Personally...durability with some UV resistance. 

*Sherwin's Kem Aqua Plus, Clear. *
http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/pro...-finishes/water/sherwood-kem-aqua-plus-clear/


Done. Problem solved.


Post some after pictures.


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## lilpaintchic

Sooo after much conversation the ho wants bm "stays clear".
I've never used it.
Tips, tricks, words of caution from you guys? I scanned over the tds real quick and will actually read a bit more but I think it said 3hr recoat,no sanding between coats (for adhesion issues anyway)...obviously we'll be sanding between coats for raised grain, etc.--unless sanding sealer is the way to go? and if so, would it change the color of unstained fir at all? This ho is pretty particular...she wants clear, clear. Not even a hint of color. 
I was gonna run a couple samples in my garage next week, I just haven't had the time (or desire) to put things together yet. Job starts in 2 weeks, guess I better get crackin. I was planning on sand, clear, sand, clear, bump sand as needed, clear and done...might need 4 coats, hoping it won't. Kinda like a coat of primer and 2 coats of paint is how I'm thinkin...Sound about right?
And everything will be prefinished so I'm wondering if one of you wizards of nc (which is NOT me) have a fab rack set up for 2200 ln ft of case, base, etc...open to suggestions and advice. 
I seem to remember a rack thread or hundred on here, haven't looked yet


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## Jmayspaint

The Stays Clear is the clearest acrylic clear coat I've used. Whenever someone wants minimum change in the wood tone, that's what I use. 

As far as handling, it's not a lot different than other acrylic clear coats. It's a little heavier bodied than most. Your plan sounds fine to me. I think you'll like the product. 

I have posted a drying rack made from cinder blocks and 2/2"s on here somewhere. Can be set up in an average garage and holds a ton of trim pieces. 


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## DeanV

I do not know if it still does, but on dark colors I thought staysclear used to have a slight bluish tint. I have not used it much in a long time.


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## Woodco

lilpaintchic said:


> Sooo after much conversation the ho wants bm "stays clear".
> I've never used it.
> Tips, tricks, words of caution from you guys? I scanned over the tds real quick and will actually read a bit more but I think it said 3hr recoat,no sanding between coats (for adhesion issues anyway)...obviously we'll be sanding between coats for raised grain, etc.--unless sanding sealer is the way to go? and if so, would it change the color of unstained fir at all? This ho is pretty particular...she wants clear, clear. Not even a hint of color.
> I was gonna run a couple samples in my garage next week, I just haven't had the time (or desire) to put things together yet. Job starts in 2 weeks, guess I better get crackin. I was planning on sand, clear, sand, clear, bump sand as needed, clear and done...might need 4 coats, hoping it won't. Kinda like a coat of primer and 2 coats of paint is how I'm thinkin...Sound about right?
> And everything will be prefinished so I'm wondering if one of you wizards of nc (which is NOT me) have a fab rack set up for 2200 ln ft of case, base, etc...open to suggestions and advice.
> I seem to remember a rack thread or hundred on here, haven't looked yet


If you use a sanding sealer, it will be cheaper for you, and you'll be able to 2nd coat it quicker. I would imagine Stays Clear even has their own sand sealer.


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## lilpaintchic

Woodco said:


> If you use a sanding sealer, it will be cheaper for you, and you'll be able to 2nd coat it quicker. I would imagine Stays Clear even has their own sand sealer.


The tds says can be used as sealer. I'll look into it though...time=$$


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## lilpaintchic

Ok, so what tip size for stays clear? 
Got a new titan 411, pnuthin but problems getting this crap to lay out...:/
Switched to a 413, too heavy, 412, too heavy...trying to get rid of these damn pinholes.
I know it went on as a solid wet coat. 3 times. I think I'm having the same problem I had with breakthrough a while back. Overspray from the previous door screws up the next door in the set. It's like 3 seconds or less...wth?
Pics on Monday. If I look at these doors again today I'm gonna burn em.


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## cocomonkeynuts

lilpaintchic said:


> Ok, so what tip size for stays clear?
> Got a new titan 411, pnuthin but problems getting this crap to lay out...:/
> Switched to a 413, too heavy, 412, too heavy...trying to get rid of these damn pinholes.
> I know it went on as a solid wet coat. 3 times. I think I'm having the same problem I had with breakthrough a while back. Overspray from the previous door screws up the next door in the set. It's like 3 seconds or less...wth?
> Pics on Monday. If I look at these doors again today I'm gonna burn em.


I have used a 311 FF Tip with the stays clear (N538) out of a Graco 395, wooster microplush rollers also work well.

Maybe the FFLP tips will help with overspray..


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## lilpaintchic

cocomonkeynuts said:


> I have used a 311 FF Tip with the stays clear (N538) out of a Graco 395, wooster microplush rollers also work well.
> 
> Maybe the FFLP tips will help with overspray..


311ff?


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## cocomonkeynuts

lilpaintchic said:


> 311ff?


Fine Finish tips... 

http://www.graco.com/us/en/products/ad/rac-x-fflp-tip.html
http://www.portlandcompressor.com/s...fine-finish-low-pressure-fflp-switchtips.aspx
http://www.portlandcompressor.com/store/p-62-graco-rac-x-fine-finish-tips-fft-switchtips.aspx
http://www.asmcompany.com/asm/asm.nsf/Page/Uni-Tip+Universal+Reversible+Spray+Tips

I think mine is actually a ASM unitip model (manufactured by graco)

HVLP would be another option if you have access to one.


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## lilpaintchic

lilpaintchic said:


> Ff tips come in even numbers...08,10,12,etc. never seen a 311ff.


And I'm pretty sure an hvlp would be worse. I have 24 doors, 36 windows (which came out perfectly fine) and 2200ln ft of case and base that is yet to be done. An help would not be the right solution. 
Either the product needs to be thinned (Will do this for the case work) or I've got the wrong tip. A 515 is wayyy to big but the problem is getting the big paneled doors uniformly wet. I hosed the crap out of 1 fully expecting it to run (which it did) and let it just do it's thing. The impressive part is though I intentionally screwed it up, there was so much product on it that it laid down pretty well.
I am not interested in repeating that process on the rest of these doors though.it says 4 ml wft....seems pretty dang thick for a clear though...
Experienced sprayers please feel free to chime in!


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## ridesarize

lilpaintchic said:


> And I'm pretty sure an hvlp would be worse. I have 24 doors, 36 windows (which came out perfectly fine) and 2200ln ft of case and base that is yet to be done. An help would not be the right solution.
> Either the product needs to be thinned (Will do this for the case work) or I've got the wrong tip. A 515 is wayyy to big but the problem is getting the big paneled doors uniformly wet. I hosed the crap out of 1 fully expecting it to run (which it did) and let it just do it's thing. The impressive part is though I intentionally screwed it up, there was so much product on it that it laid down pretty well.
> I am not interested in repeating that process on the rest of these doors though.it says 4 ml wft....seems pretty dang thick for a clear though...
> Experienced sprayers please feel free to chime in!


I would use a smaller tip like a 410 or 310. That's what I use for Zar Ultra Max many times. It's all about close distance, fast gun, perfect overlap, 3 passes is almost too much. 2 passes with a quick gun is good. Got to put cardboard on top of doors to stop overspray going over them. Have to shoot direct and quick even with 410.


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## futtyos

*Gardz gardz gardz gardz gardz*



CApainter said:


> I'm surprised futtyos hasn't recommended GARDZ.


I am just reading through this thread for the first time and got quite a chuckle from your comment! However, using Gardz would be silly only because it doesn't give any UV protection. Other than that, I would have to say .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................






futtyos


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## cocomonkeynuts

lilpaintchic said:


> And I'm pretty sure an hvlp would be worse. I have 24 doors, 36 windows (which came out perfectly fine) and 2200ln ft of case and base that is yet to be done. An help would not be the right solution.
> Either the product needs to be thinned (Will do this for the case work) or I've got the wrong tip. A 515 is wayyy to big but the problem is getting the big paneled doors uniformly wet. I hosed the crap out of 1 fully expecting it to run (which it did) and let it just do it's thing. The impressive part is though I intentionally screwed it up, there was so much product on it that it laid down pretty well.
> I am not interested in repeating that process on the rest of these doors though.it says 4 ml wft....seems pretty dang thick for a clear though...
> Experienced sprayers please feel free to chime in!


I am not a pro with any sprayer just telling you what worked well for me. The fine finish tips really put on a more even spray. I didn't have any problems so I didn't do any further testing.
I can tell you that if you call BM product info they would just regurgitate the 4MIL thickness specified in the tech sheets. When in doubt multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat.


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## lilpaintchic

first coat was used as a sealer, went on fine. light coat on that and the following 2 coats. I didn't like the pitting and thought perhaps a ff was the way to go but it atomized so well that the pitting seemed to be worse, not better so I switched back to the 411. 
I'm trying to figure out how to post my BT door problem to this thread as it's the exact same problem with a different coating that I know is not being over loaded or underloaded which leaves (in my mind anyway) a problem with overspray. so the question is how on earth am I supposed to be able to set these doors up vertically and shoot em? unless I've got about 4 ft between doors I can't figure out how to fix the problem going forward. I can't stack em horizontally (nor should I have to), can't shoot 1 at a time, can't protect the backside while shooting the sides....this is stupid. and it's thoroughly pissing me off....I knew I shoulda just used lacquer...:/


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## lilpaintchic

hope this link works.

current problem seems much like this problem only in clear.... F*****g stupid wb's...gimme back my solvents EPA. The good ones.

http://www.painttalk.com/f25/whats-going-these-breakthrough-cabinets-79890/index2/#post1459513

pics at post #36


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## Lazerlnes

I must say I love the water based Poly's they take more coats but with the quick recoat time,easy clean up,no fumes, and better sun and mold resistance they are definitely my preferred.


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## lilpaintchic

Lazerlnes said:


> I must say I love the water based Poly's they take more coats but with the quick recoat time,easy clean up,no fumes, and better sun and mold resistance they are definitely my preferred.


Care to share your thoughts/methodology on this?


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## Lazerlnes

lilpaintchic said:


> Lazerlnes said:
> 
> 
> 
> I must say I love the water based Poly's they take more coats but with the quick recoat time,easy clean up,no fumes, and better sun and mold resistance they are definitely my preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> Care to share your thoughts/methodology on this?
Click to expand...

 well for something like doors I do my first two coats real thin with no sanding in-between. The next three I lay on thick for better leveling with scuff sand in-between coats with 400/600 grit. I have used several brands most on top of thoroughly dried oil based stains and each time time, each brand it went of without a hitch. My neighbors fir door I finished well into 6 years ago with Deft water based really has held up well. It's location has it getting hit with a good amount of sun too but granted it's the first half of the day.
There was one instance where I had a small amount of beading happening in my first coat but by my sixth coat which I completed on the same day I will had it was a smooth as a piano key. Time, lack of toxicity, and an overall excellent finish sold me.


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## Lazerlnes

To be honest the link wouldn't work for me for some reason so I can't see exactly what your dealing with but I have found with the water poly many times the first coat or two really will not due justice they just take many more passes then what you may be used to with standard polyurethane.


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## lilpaintchic

Lazerlnes said:


> well for something like doors I do my first two coats real thin with no sanding in-between. The next three I lay on thick for better leveling with scuff sand in-between coats with 400/600 grit. I have used several brands most on top of thoroughly dried oil based stains and each time time, each brand it went of without a hitch. My neighbors fir door I finished well into 6 years ago with Deft water based really has held up well. It's location has it getting hit with a good amount of sun too but granted it's the first half of the day.
> There was one instance where I had a small amount of beading happening in my first coat but by my sixth coat which I completed on the same day I will had it was a smooth as a piano key. Time, lack of toxicity, and an overall excellent finish sold me.


Spraying?
And how would you set up and shoot the doors I have? 3 of them are about 40-42" wide. Closet doors....and what size tip?


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## Lazerlnes

Personally I like to brush water poly it doesn't take long to brush out a door it levels out very smooth and I don't need to stress over any contaminants that may be remaining in the sprayer. Buy if I where to use a sprayer I think I would reserve it for my final coats with 310 ff tip. Since your set up to spray try this : brush one coat then sand with 400 grit then spray remaining. I think it would work out nice.


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## futtyos

*Applying waterborne polys*



Lazerlnes said:


> Personally I like to brush water poly it doesn't take long to brush out a door it levels out very smooth and I don't need to stress over any contaminants that may be remaining in the sprayer. Buy if I where to use a sprayer I think I would reserve it for my final coats with 310 ff tip. Since your set up to spray try this : brush one coat then sand with 400 grit then spray remaining. I think it would work out nice.


Lazerlnes, not to stray away from the spraying discussion, but do you ever apply waterborne polys with a roller and then tip off with a brush? Lat year I refurbished a bay window ledge facing north and looking into foliage. I used a 1'4 nap mini roller from SW and tipped the bubbles out with a 3" wide Wooster Pro angle sash brush. I did 2 coats and they came out nice, but the surface is 2 feet off the ground and facing north, so its hard to see if there are any roller fibers left in the poly. I would be curious if you have had success getting a wb poly on with a roller that doesn't leave fibers.

futtyos


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## Lazerlnes

futtyos said:


> Lazerlnes said:
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I like to brush water poly it doesn't take long to brush out a door it levels out very smooth and I don't need to stress over any contaminants that may be remaining in the sprayer. Buy if I where to use a sprayer I think I would reserve it for my final coats with 310 ff tip. Since your set up to spray try this : brush one coat then sand with 400 grit then spray remaining. I think it would work out nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Lazerlnes, not to stray away from the spraying discussion, but do you ever apply waterborne polys with a roller and then tip off with a brush? Lat year I refurbished a bay window ledge facing north and looking into foliage. I used a 1'4 nap mini roller from SW and tipped the bubbles out with a 3" wide Wooster Pro angle sash brush. I did 2 coats and they came out nice, but the surface is 2 feet off the ground and facing north, so its hard to see if there are any roller fibers left in the poly. I would be curious if you have had success getting a wb poly on with a roller that doesn't leave fibers.
> 
> futtyos
Click to expand...

You know I have yet to try a roller for that exact reason. I was worried it might at the minimum cause more bubbles to form with a foam roller and I could see how the fibers would become an issue potentially with a nap roller. I have always had good success with a brush a so I stuck with it.I use much finer grits of paper with the waterbornes also then what I have used with standard Poly


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## cocomonkeynuts

Lazerlnes said:


> You know I have yet to try a roller for that exact reason. I was worried it might at the minimum cause more bubbles to form with a foam roller and I could see how the fibers would become an issue potentially with a nap roller. I have always had good success with a brush a so I stuck with it.I use much finer grits of paper with the waterbornes also then what I have used with standard Poly


Wooster microplush or the newer prodooz ftp on jumbokoter frame 

great results with both using stays clear and old masters water based over mesquite table.

I picked up some acehardware branded 1/4" nap covers once and immediately toss them in the garbage


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## Woodco

futtyos said:


> Lazerlnes, not to stray away from the spraying discussion, but do you ever apply waterborne polys with a roller and then tip off with a brush? Lat year I refurbished a bay window ledge facing north and looking into foliage. I used a 1'4 nap mini roller from SW and tipped the bubbles out with a 3" wide Wooster Pro angle sash brush. I did 2 coats and they came out nice, but the surface is 2 feet off the ground and facing north, so its hard to see if there are any roller fibers left in the poly. I would be curious if you have had success getting a wb poly on with a roller that doesn't leave fibers.
> 
> futtyos


I've done it. I had no problems.

And back to the discussion, I dont see the need for so many coats. I do a sander coat, and two more on top of it. Looks great everytime. thinning it just a bit helps with the pitting. double wet coat if necessary with a 410. I used to have the same problem as you when I first tried spraying WB poly. practice with it a bit.


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## mackhomie

ridesarize said:


> What about Zar Ultra Max? It does have an amber tone after but it's easy to use, first coat sands easy, dries fast, sprays good with a 308 and practice. 2 coats for minimal specs, 3 gets nicer and smoother.
> 
> Brushing works it into the grain better but spraying is obviously faster.


Where abouts are you 'near seattle'? I'm from lynnwood but have been living in north Everett/lake Stevens for a couple years now


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## ridesarize

mackhomie said:


> Where abouts are you 'near seattle'? I'm from lynnwood but have been living in north Everett/lake Stevens for a couple years now


I reside in Bremerton and work in kitsap, bainbridge island, etc.


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