# Stay sharp paint scrapers



## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

I used to enjoy reading articles by Jon Toby a painting contractor out in the west coast ( I believe). He wrote some outstanding articles for fine home building , and I would encourage any one who knows how, to put them all up on this site 

Fine home building blocks you from reading their old articles for free ( bummer)

Any way he used to talk of the paint scrapers stay sharp and I would gather the business that made them is gone ?

Any info or places to buy these would be huge !
Thanks guys 


Any one know where Jon Toby is ?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Phinnster said:


> I used to enjoy reading articles by Jon Toby a painting contractor out in the west coast ( I believe). He wrote some outstanding articles for fine home building , and I would encourage any one who knows how, to put them all up on this site
> 
> Fine home building blocks you from reading their old articles for free ( bummer)
> 
> ...


I'm looking at his article in FHB from 2002, 'Removing Exterior Paint" and he only talks about ProPrep scrapers. Those were discontinued by the mfg a few years ago.

The credit for the articles says that Jon Tobey was /is from. Monroe, WA.

As an aside, we found the ProPreps to be handy for fussy detail, but little else. Our go-to scrapers are Hyde Molding scrapers. Over the years, we've tried a ton of others, but always end up with them.

EDIT: I think the owners at PT are wary of posting copyrighted material....


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I can't imagine a paint scraper that stays sharp without the need to sharpen or replace. Lately, I've been trying to get better at sharpening my own, but I suck at it. Even got a new fancy set of files, but they all just laugh at me while they watch my futile attempts. They're gonna have a hay day in the garage when they see me file my mower blade down to a nub. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I was using the carbide steel blades from Lee Valley which were awesome, but I don't have a Lee Valley store nearby now so I've been using Richards for the last few years.

The regular steel paint scrapers are garbage and go dull within minutes. Just a waste of time sharpening them. Never using them ever again.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Wildbill7145 said:


> I was using the carbide steel blades from Lee Valley which were awesome, but I don't have a Lee Valley store nearby now so I've been using Richards for the last few years.
> 
> The regular steel paint scrapers are garbage and go dull within minutes. Just a waste of time sharpening them. Never using them ever again.



http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,190,43040&p=20095

The link probably won't work but you could copy & paste in your search bar. They're online and ship to US & Canada, just FYI. 



Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,190,43040&p=20095
> 
> The link probably won't work but you could copy & paste in your search bar. They're online and ship to US & Canada, just FYI.
> 
> ...


Thank you sir! I'll probably just stick with the Richards scrapers for now as I can get the blades locally. The carbide blades last absolutely forever. Never need sharpening. Once they start to get beat up, just toss em and replace. They're way more expensive than the regular steel ones, but if you're buying one blade instead of 10 I'd assume they're actually cheaper and more effective.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I can't imagine a paint scraper that stays sharp without the need to sharpen or replace. Lately, I've been trying to get better at sharpening my own, but I suck at it. Even got a new fancy set of files, but they all just laugh at me while they watch my futile attempts. They're gonna have a hay day in the garage when they see me file my mower blade down to a nub.
> 
> 
> Stelzer Painting Inc.


After carrying files with us for a few years, we switched to using bench grinders. One comes with us on jobs, one stats in the shop. We've accumulated enough of the Hyde scrapers that we can go at least 4 hours without having to sharpen any. 

In a previous thread, another PTer, I think it was daArch, suggested a small belt sander. We haven't had to sharpen a load of scrapers since he posted that, but I think it's worth a try. Especially since it's a tool that most of us already have.

As far as carbide goes, I'd say don't bother. They stay almost sharp enough for a long time. We only use them for scraping paint off of concrete.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Gough said:


> After carrying files with us for a few years, we switched to using bench grinders. One comes with us on jobs, one stats in the shop. We've accumulated enough of the Hyde scrapers that we can go at least 4 hours without having to sharpen any.
> 
> In a previous thread, another PTer, I think it was daArch, suggested a small belt sander. We haven't had to sharpen a load of scrapers since he posted that, but I think it's worth a try. Especially since it's a tool that most of us already have.
> 
> As far as carbide goes, I'd say don't bother. They stay almost sharp enough for a long time. We only use them for scraping paint off of concrete.


good memory, but then again most anything strange, odd, and outrageous was typed by me.

I'd hold the sander upside down (either in a vice or between my knees) and grind away. Use a fine belt and adjust speed to most effective. 

Personally, I found that the Hydes were the most practical - be it the hook type or the long handled triangle and/or tear drop. The metal was soft enough to sharpen easy, which yes means the edge don't last long, but means you can sharpen it quickly and VERY sharp. 

It's taken me 50 odd years to understand sharpening different tools, and I am still learning. I started sharpening pocket knives and axes around '61.

Nowadays there are all sorts of vids on youtube on sharpening. You guys are lucky to have that source.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

daArch said:


> good memory, but then again most anything strange, odd, and outrageous was typed by me.
> 
> I'd hold the sander upside down (either in a vice or between my knees) and grind away. Use a fine belt and adjust speed to most effective.
> 
> ...



On my last RRP job, I took my crappy bench grinder with me to quickly sharpen some of the scrapers. Used my sanders too. Even dipped blade in water every time I thought the blade was getting too hot. I've watched lotsa YouTube vids too. I think, like most things, it'll just take time to develop a knack. For now though, my sharpening skills are laughable, at best. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> On my last RRP job, I took my crappy bench grinder with me to quickly sharpen some of the scrapers. Used my sanders too. Even dipped blade in water every time I thought the blade was getting too hot. I've watched lotsa YouTube vids too. *I think, like most things, it'll just take time to develop a knack. For now though, my sharpening skills are laughable, at best. *
> 
> 
> Stelzer Painting Inc.


I can relate. I'm convinced that the "trick" to sharpen any blade is holding the blade at the correct angle to the grinder/sander/stone/etc.

My father (84 years old) has made knives as a hobby for over 60 years. He can sharpen anything, making it look easy and quick. Me, on the other hand, well, let's just say that I'm not a chip off the old block. I wish I inherited his skills (he is great working with leather, painting miniatures, building models, and knives/sheaths).


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> good memory
> 
> <<snip>>


Sure, but do you know where I left my keys?


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

We use the 5" grinder to sharpen when we are sanding. It gets the blade really sharp so we can cut the round corners left behind by the sanders


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

premierpainter said:


> We use the 5" grinder to sharpen when we are sanding. It gets the blade really sharp so we can cut the round corners left behind by the sanders


With what disks?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

SemiproJohn said:


> I can relate. I'm convinced that the "trick" to sharpen any blade is holding the blade at the correct angle to the grinder/sander/stone/etc.
> 
> My father (84 years old) has made knives as a hobby for over 60 years. He can sharpen anything, making it look easy and quick. Me, on the other hand, well, let's just say that I'm not a chip off the old block. I wish I inherited his skills (he is great working with leather, painting miniatures, building models, and knives/sheaths).


That's absolutely the trick, and different tools require different angles for different purposes. THAT'S the REAL trick. 

All the other variables stones, oils, etc are just icing on the knowledge cake.

If I knew your father, I'd pay him to mentor me. And I bet he sharpens everything with out a jig, just free hand. :thumbsup:

I get obsessive some times and spend hours sharpening my collection of pocket knives - and then I attack my scissors, which as a paper hanger I need to have SHARP


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Small belt sander everytime. Porter cable 3 inch wide. I just hold it in my hand with belt up/out. Just make sure u sharpen "away" so u dont stab urself. Its what I use for my wood chisels n sliks etc.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

bryceraisanen said:


> Small belt sander everytime. Porter cable 3 inch wide. I just hold it in my hand with belt up/out. Just make sure u sharpen "away" so u dont stab urself. Its what I use for my wood chisels n sliks etc.



:thumbsup:


How about the wire edge? For your slicks and chisels, do you add an additional step to remove that?

The little PC belt is a sweet tool for a lot of stuff. I can't remember the last time we broke out any of the others.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

Gough said:


> With what disks?


Five inch grinder. This is not for a pocket knife it's to sharpen five and ones


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

premierpainter said:


> Five inch grinder. This is not for a pocket knife it's to sharpen five and ones


Got it, but what material/grit in the grinder?

Are 5/1s your go-to scrapers?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Mostly been using 2.5" carbide scrapers. The double sided blades I get at the local hardware stores lasts about 8-12 hrs./side on newer coatings and 4 hrs./side on old oils and lead stuff.
Anyone know how well the Anza scrapers work? They are sold by the same company that sells the silent paint remover.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Gough said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> How about the wire edge? For your slicks and chisels, do you add an additional step to remove that?
> 
> The little PC belt is a sweet tool for a lot of stuff. I can't remember the last time we broke out any of the others.


Well.... im pretty comfortable turning it around. But I wont recommend it for first timers lets say. I have an assortment of whetstones/files that r superfine grit for finishing freehand or in a jig. But I cant imagine going that far for a paint scraper. Just hit er with the belty for five seconds an get back on the ladder times a-wastin


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

bryceraisanen said:


> Well.... im pretty comfortable turning it around. But I wont recommend it for first timers lets say. I have an assortment of whetstones/files that r superfine grit for finishing freehand or in a jig. But I cant imagine going that far for a paint scraper. Just hit er with the belty for five seconds an get back on the ladder times a-wastin


You got it, this ain't no straight razor.


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