# dent in drywall



## mv8710 (Jul 28, 2010)

I don't often have to fix dents .
Can you see the error in my logic here....

I repaired a dent in a drywall from a bed hitting it.
The top layer was pierced but not the bottom, so it wasn't a hole.
I pulled off the loose paper and the hole was about 8mm deep.
I primed the hole and filled it with builders bond fill, you know the 2 pot stuff.
I made it just shy and topped it off with red devil patch n fill.It's a bit better than the really light stuff.
sanded lightly then painted it.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

Congrats


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## mv8710 (Jul 28, 2010)

wont the bond fill shrink at a different rate than the rest of the filler?


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

I probably would have used durabond.. if the paper was loose i would tear it back to a point where it wasnt comming anymore and gaurdz it. Then id float it with durabond.


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## mv8710 (Jul 28, 2010)

whats dura bond?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Its a setting type drywall mud. Dries harder than premixed, resists cracking, bonds better, sands more difficult.

http://www.usg.com/sheetrock-durabond-setting-type-joint-compound.html


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## mv8710 (Jul 28, 2010)

Is it stuff what you use to tape joints as a base coat?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

you could. 

It's ideal for first coat deep fills in repairs like dents cuz it doesn't crack and drys fairly fast independent from ambient humidity.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> you could.
> 
> It's ideal for first coat deep fills in repairs like dents cuz it doesn't crack and drys fairly fast independent from ambient humidity.


 Wow TJ.You have really done your homework!Nice explanatory.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Will Durabond bond with cement and/or plaster?


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

PressurePros said:


> Will Durabond bond with cement and/or plaster?


You can always use a bonding primer meant for masonry if you aren't sure, Ken. But I've used durabond straight onto old plaster with absolutely no issues.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

PressurePros said:


> Will Durabond bond with cement and/or plaster?


 
absolutely bonds with plaster.......cant say for sure about cement cause i never tried to patch a sidewalk with 20 set .......certain jobs with bad corners need to be reformed an 20 set works great for that. i even use in on fireplace mantels to get a perfect 90 degree angle for my cut line to the wall


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I have done the same with mantels. As for Durabond's ability to dry regardless of temp, I used Durabond 20 to patch a bunch of big kick dents in an exterior apartment door in the winter (as a favor to a friend), and it dried hard...in about 30 minutes.:notworthy: Durabond....Im never without a bag.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

mudbone said:


> Wow TJ.You have really done your homework!Nice explanatory.


I have to carry my weight around here.:whistling2:



PressurePros said:


> Will Durabond bond with cement and/or plaster?


It works well for above grade cement. It's fine for cured plaster.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I keep 3 - 5 gallon pails with lids in the trailer. Each one has 20, 45 and 90. Ready for fixing cracks, beads, dents, door knob holes and skiming walls. 

OP - how can you be a painter and not have to repair dents?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

While I hijacked this thing successfully and turned it into a durabond discussion, how do you guys that use mix it up? What's the easiest way you found to mix it fast, without lumps, and efficiently?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I use a 500 rpm 1/2 mixer. I will mix small batches in a steel mud pan with a paint paddle. Put water in 1st.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I use a 500 rpm 1/2 mixer. I will mix small batches in a steel mud pan with a paint paddle. Put water in 1st.


 Me also!


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

mv8710 said:


> wont the bond fill shrink at a different rate than the rest of the filler?


 If done correctly you can save the dent for their pocketbook!:yes:


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> While I hijacked this thing successfully and turned it into a durabond discussion, how do you guys that use mix it up? What's the easiest way you found to mix it fast, without lumps, and efficiently?


 
TJ- i just use a mixer attachment for the drill, add a little dish soap and mix it up in a clean 5er. put water in before mix and after. 

Takes maybe a minute at most to get it good depending on how much i am mixing per batch.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> While I hijacked this thing successfully and turned it into a durabond discussion, how do you guys that use mix it up? What's the easiest way you found to mix it fast, without lumps, and efficiently?


 
1.5'' flex knife in a pan. the flex knife is great for pressing out any lumps while im mixing back an forth or if i need a good bit ill use a 2.5 gallon bucket and an egg beater/cordless drill


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

I also mix it with a 1.5 and then work it with whatever full size knife I'm gonna use, picking some up and pulling it across the lip of the pan. Seems to work most of the chunks out.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Why so much dura bond, y'all? I use it for really heavy patches, or where exceptional bond is needed,but for most run od the mill patches and even joint finishing, EasySand is more than adequate.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Oh and 3 " knife in a pan, unless it's a bigger batch, then paddle mixer and bucket. Always water first, mix really thin at first and then add powder until desired consistency is reached.


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## drums4jay (Jul 26, 2010)

I usually use plaster of paris as the first coat in deeper dents and small holes like anchor holes. It dries fairly fast and won't crack. I then skim 2 coats of multi-purpose joint compound over the top and sand. The end results have always looked nice, and I've had no problems with cracking.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

that freaking HO DIY pink stuff that turns white (Dap Dry Dex) is real good for small repairs, surprisingly good. Good adhesion, nice spreadability, dries fast, sands (feathers) easy.

I absolutely love hot mud (45 min) for serious repairs and larger areas because one can float it to a glass like surface just as it has set, but it takes so long to DRY. (Set time is 45, dry time is MUCH longer) But I tend to use it to fill to the the lathe in one coat, so it takes 24 hours to fully dry - sometimes longer. 

Has anyone ever added the correct about of hot mud to the water the first try? I can't remember that I have - EVER. Is there a measurement ratio that needs no fine adjustment? (to hell with what the bag says)


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I don't think the bag measurement is adjustable like a baking recipe where you can half/quarter it. I rarely dump a whole bag of dbond and mix it up. Its basically a crapshoot where 6 or 7/10 times its good, but those 3 or 4 times I'm adding water or dbond or both and adjusting the ratio while I silently fume.... The sad part is everyone on the job knows if you did it right, because they either hear the mixer once...or a bunch of times.


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## mv8710 (Jul 28, 2010)

would you say general purpose mud would do the same thing? It's all I carry.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

daArch said:


> I absolutely love hot mud (45 min) for serious repairs and larger areas because one can float it to a glass like surface just as it has set, but it takes so long to DRY. (Set time is 45, dry time is MUCH longer) But I tend to use it to fill to the the lathe in one coat, so it takes 24 hours to fully dry - sometimes longer.
> 
> 
> Use 20 instead. Heavy fills can be dry in a few hours...
> ...


It varies like a bread recipe because it will depend on relative humidity.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> It varies like a bread recipe because it will depend on relative humidity.


True, you can also accelerate the drying time though through halogens and heat lamps.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

When you guys say Durobond- are you talking the brown bag or the "easy Sand" setting powder? Used to use the brown bag, but why now, the easy sand ( why they called it that I don't know..) works just as well and at least has the hope of sanding. Still top with premixed for actual easy sanding.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

I'm talking about the brown bag, i just use that stuff for big fills. I use easy sand for taping, skim coats.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

The ez will do big fills too- that is what 5 and 20 are for, what is the advantage for brown bagging?


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

BrushJockey said:


> The ez will do big fills too- that is what 5 and 20 are for, what is the advantage for brown bagging?


Keeps it out of public view:whistling2:

I think its stronger


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Tossed ya a softball, didn't I?? lol

Sure its stronger, but usually don't need cement strong to patch a wall. EZ is harder than wallboard...


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

BrushJockey said:


> Tossed ya a softball, didn't I?? lol


Not really..why do they sell both? I was taught that durabond has a stronger set than easy sand.

Can you use both? sure. Ive used both, but when i have the durabond in my van im going to use it for filling rather than the easy sand.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

The softball was the brown bagging...

I guess my point is that I don't want to carry both kinds if one will do. I carry a small amount of 5 for quick and deep, 20 and 45 for all else- all ez. 
Then if it is a sizable area I'll top it with +3 for the really easy sand. 
That seems to be enough stuff for me to carry...


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

BrushJockey said:


> The ez will do big fills too- that is what 5 and 20 are for, what is the advantage for brown bagging?


 Isn,t brown bagging a form of fast food chains?:blink:


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Durabond is really overkill for your run of the mill patch. It adds extra strength to a tape coat, but that is rarely necessary. Maybe for skimming/ patching really bad plaster, or skimming cement board, otherwise easysand. 

Te main difference is the hardness, and easy sand is considered lightweight where durabond is not.


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## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

My good buddy is a taper by trade, by far hands down the best finisher I have ever seen. A couple of years back he told me that if you rasp a scrap piece of dry wall into a durabond mix it will speed up dry time exponentially. The more drywall dust you put in the faster it sets. This trick definitely works, and have done it ever since when needed. EasySand 5 is just weird and never feels right to me.


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