# Hollow metal doors?



## STAR

What's your go to paint for new hollow metal doors and frames? Do you prime? I've been using stix primer followed by two coats of Solo semi or Dulux diamond.
Was thinking of trying PPG breakthrough directly with no primer.
Comments?


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## ewingpainting.net

Breakthrough is great, just hard to roll and brush, sw pro industrial is good stuff


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## Oden

The d.t.m.s they got out now are best. Sherwin and Ben Moore are about the same. So much like oil.


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## journeymanPainter

STAR said:


> What's your go to paint for new hollow metal doors and frames? Do you prime? I've been using stix primer followed by two coats of Solo semi or Dulux diamond.
> Was thinking of trying PPG breakthrough directly with no primer.
> Comments?


Dulux lifemaster, no primer


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## STAR

journeymanPainter said:


> Dulux lifemaster, no primer


Lifemaster huh? Haven't used that stuff in years. Diamond is there top line...figure that would be the best choice if not priming.


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## journeymanPainter

STAR said:


> Lifemaster huh? Haven't used that stuff in years. Diamond is there top line...figure that would be the best choice if not priming.


Your right diamond is there best product, but its not DTM. 

Best performing doesn't always mean is best for everything


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## jack1999

SW All Surface Enamel works well.


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## RedOak

*metal door frames*

i use dulux expert waterborne alkyd. its strong and very durable


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## richmondpainting

Pro Mar 400...just saying...


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## chrisn

richmondpainting said:


> Pro Mar 400...just saying...


 
surprise, 
surprise
surprise


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## Paradigmzz

Silly question with one correct response. Oden for the win. Why would you prime preprimed metal doors and frames? Sand em, shoot em. DTM all the way. RACO doors are easy peasy.

Richmond, you should be ashamed of yourself.


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## journeymanPainter

Paradigmzz said:


> Silly question with one correct response. Oden for the win. Why would you prime preprimed metal doors and frames? Sand em, shoot em. DTM all the way. RACO doors are easy peasy.
> 
> Richmond, you should be ashamed of yourself.


Where does it say the doors are pre primed?

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## Paradigmzz

STAR said:


> What's your go to paint for new hollow metal doors and frames? Do you prime? I've been using stix primer followed by two coats of Solo semi or Dulux diamond.
> Was thinking of trying PPG breakthrough directly with no primer.
> Comments?


Solo blocks too much.


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## chrisn

Paradigmzz said:


> Silly question with one correct response. Oden for the win. Why would you prime preprimed metal doors and frames? Sand em, shoot em. DTM all the way. RACO doors are easy peasy.
> 
> Richmond, you should be ashamed of yourself.


 
he has no shame what so ever, none:no:


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## Paradigmzz

journeymanPainter said:


> Where does it say the doors are pre primed?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


It doesn't need to. Its DTM. Direct to metal. And rarely are steel frames unprimed. Typically got shop coat on them.


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## richmondpainting

Paradigmzz said:


> Silly question with one correct response. Oden for the win. Why would you prime preprimed metal doors and frames? Sand em, shoot em. DTM all the way. RACO doors are easy peasy.
> 
> Richmond, you should be ashamed of yourself.


Bit confused on that one there.....lol


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## Stretch67

Oden said:


> The d.t.m.s they got out now are best. Sherwin and Ben Moore are about the same. So much like oil.


Ok so are you saying DTM acrylic? last time i used waterborne we got too much rust bleeding through and had to do a lot of touchup on the one year punch list...


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## Oden

bryceraisanen said:


> Ok so are you saying DTM acrylic? last time i used waterborne we got too much rust bleeding through and had to do a lot of touchup on the one year punch list...


I don't know any acrylics that kill the rust yet. They claim to. But don't. But the rust usually comes right through in a day if not right away in my experience anyhow. I'll hit it with a stain sealer and bury it next coat. I'll stain seal it first if I can see the rust. It's usually on the corners in my experience. 

They leave them frames outside. They get bangs up and rained on and rust. Oil kills that but we rarely get to use it anymore. I'd like to see it come back. The oil. Doubt it though.


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## HJ61

I sprayed a frame with Advance just to see. It leveled like glass and dried really fast in the dry environment of a commercial site. Anybody use the PPG Pitt Tech? or Pitt Glaze(WB Epoxy)?


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## journeymanPainter

HJ61 said:


> I sprayed a frame with Advance just to see. It leveled like glass and dried really fast in the dry environment of a commercial site. Anybody use the PPG Pitt Tech? or Pitt Glaze(WB Epoxy)?


I've been using a lot of Pitt tech on exterior trim, and railings. Works awesome, about to apply it to some mulions in the next couple weeks


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## akrause

No question about it. (a) quick piece of sandpaper, ...(b) caulk the case, ....(c) spray or roll 2 coats of whatever you like. Done. Priming pre-primed doors makes absolutely zero sense unless it's for color achievement ....ie deep red or something. Even most reds use gray primers nowadays.


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## PRC

Oden said:


> I don't know any acrylics that kill the rust yet. They claim to. But don't. But the rust usually comes right through in a day if not right away in my experience anyhow. I'll hit it with a stain sealer and bury it next coat. I'll stain seal it first if I can see the rust. It's usually on the corners in my experience.
> 
> They leave them frames outside. They get bangs up and rained on and rust. Oil kills that but we rarely get to use it anymore. I'd like to see it come back. The oil. Doubt it though.


Still a good bit of industrial enamel being thrown on them around here, unless it's a hospital and certain fit outs.


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## journeymanPainter

Pitt Tech?
Lifemaster?


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## LaserLines

I spray this right on them...primed or not: http://www.prattandlambert.com/prod...ial_maintenance_coatings/acrylic_precat_epoxy


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## Gracobucks

I used to work for a company here (one of the biggest in town) and everything got 2 coats of ICI`s ultra. Even hollow core doors and frames. We never had a problem with it adhering to the metal. 

I use Lifemaster most of the time on mine. Never had a problem.


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## spektrum

HJ61 said:


> I sprayed a frame with Advance just to see. It leveled like glass and dried really fast in the dry environment of a commercial site. Anybody use the PPG Pitt Tech? or Pitt Glaze(WB Epoxy)?


I used pitt glaze on steel stringers. It dried fast and was finger nail scratch test resistant after a few hours. It leveled out like an oil when brushed. Great product.


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## ddelaney

ewingpainting.net said:


> Breakthrough is great, just hard to roll and brush, sw pro industrial is good stuff


How does breakthrough spray? Hvlp? Reason I ask is I have an estimate tomorrow to paint a bunch of large metal doors at a fire department. These are the large garage doors.


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## journeymanPainter

ddelaney said:


> How does breakthrough spray? Hvlp? Reason I ask is I have an estimate tomorrow to paint a bunch of large metal doors at a fire department. These are the large garage doors.


Big doors like what your talking about I would use an airless.

I haven't had the pleasure of using breakthrough yet though so as to the spray ability through an airless I'm not sure of.


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## Boco

Breakthrough sprays nice. I would just use an airless. Strain it first as some cans can get a bit chunky. I used 150 gal this January. I only could get it in singles so mixing was a PITA. Nice product that's meant to be sprayed or brushed.


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## AlphaWolf

i vote Pitt-Tech. Or really what ever company that you buy paint from, just get there DTM lol 

Pitt-Tech comes in all sheens and is dry to touch in 15 min. You can paint your door and 20 min later coat it again now its done. Win Win in my books.


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