# Best paint for critical light situation



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I got a situation coming up that has a big 16 foot window that casts an insane amount of light down a wall when the sun is there. My question is what paint would you use in this situation. The customer is requesting at least an eg-shell sheen so I can not do a flat.

My concern is that with these tall walls you will be able to see sheen variances. The way the design of the house is when you come out of the dinning room you stare right down one of these walls in the living room. It is a very particular customer so this is of some concern. 

I already warned them about it that at an angle with that much critical light there can be issues. It is new dry wall smooth finish. We are planning on priming with gardz and than painting. Is emerald the way to go here or cashmere or any other product that would be better.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I would use Emerald if your going with SW. It will lay out beautifully if applied right. It doesn't come in eggshell but the satin is not that shiny. 
In some ways, I like Emerald better than Aura for walls. A generous coat, finish rolled in one direction, looks nice and uniform.


----------



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

I was thinking emerald as well but I remember cashmere generally looks good at extreme angles If I am remembering right so thought that might be good. I know it sounds like a simple solution just paint the wall how hard is that . With the tall walls I have concerns that there will be some slight sheen variances at an extreme angle especially with that window there. It is a long wall probably 25-30 feet and really tall so it makes it slightly more challenging.


----------



## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Tell your client every paint job comes with free window blinds that must be kept shut at all times to get the true color affect of the paint. But seriously, we've all been their with this type of light reflection issue. Even flat paints of mid to deep tones will have issues. I always felt that it was due to the fact that latex/acrylics dry way to fast with taller walls. By the time you finish one stretch, reload and go back to wall, the previous stretch has already start to set up and its the overlapping is where you see shade differences. Never had these issues when finish coating with oil back in the day. Super slow dry time with oil. Make sure HO understands it is near impossible for any wall to come out flawless with that kind of light hitting it.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I've had similar issues, I think the best thing is to add some additive to it, to slow the dry time.

I know people recommend other things, but I've used Floetrol without issue and if you roll it right it'll come out looking all uniform. Even cheaper paint looks good laid out right with the stuff.

Let us know what you ended up doing. Good luck!


----------



## Professional Painter (Mar 15, 2014)

Hello, jacob33 and good evening to you. Is there any specific reason why they would want a paint with so much reflectivity to it?

I would be more worried about original construction techniques that expose a not so level 5 finish on what I would consider a critical wall. If the HO is comfortable with the original substrate finish and subsequent changes in texture along with the assumption that zero sheet rock repairs will be done on said wall (or the assumption that you know how to properly prepare for a final finished outcome), then I personally believe that it is more about the application technique rather than the paint type or product.

FWIW, Emerald or Cashmere I have used with great results on well lit and dual story critical walls, provided you have a crew that knows how to roll and the substrate has been prepared correctly and is ready for the final coat. 

What I would suggest for the most professional finish is (if you have the equipment, manpower and the wiggle room to stop all other production for the time it takes to complete this one wall....setup and cleanup included) is to hook as many power rollers up to sprayers as you possibly can for the lower/mid height areas and take every available worker you have and hook them up with varying heights of rollers on extension poles to cover all height concerns and to help disperse the paint across the wall when not getting more paint. 

Relay to the team that this one wall must be completed to a professional finish within 7 minutes and that the entire wall must be worked wet, including fanning out and getting rid of all roller lines.

Yes, it will be a cluster but explain to them that the end result of a very important 5 to 7 minute production can make or break the impressions of the entire project to the client and that if they can pull it off professionally, cordially and with unprecedented teamwork, then they could walk away with their heads held high and that they should be very proud of the work they did, as this is not for the faint of heart to pull off properly.

Then ban everybody from even getting near said wall until it is completely dry because you know (at least I hope you do) that with eggshell, one touch up especially on a critical wall will render a whole wall repaint for a professional finish. I would let this wall be the very last wall the crew finishes, after *all* other aspects of the job have been performed so that there is zero chance of one of your team members damaging the finish.

Advise the homeowner that if any damage that is not caused by you or one of your team members at that point is *not* a responsibility of your company and that _any_ touch ups will result is a very visible blemish that most likely will not be up to their satisfaction.

Professional Painter


----------



## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

I have these issues in stairwells and also (bonus) rooms over entrance ways with 16 ft. walls. If you can access what part of the top of the wall if any will not see natural light, and roll it first. Stage the wall, split the distance from top to bottom and have your helper roll the remainder with a 30mm 9" and finish behind him with a 3/8 or 1/2 18" cover from the bottom to the top, turn the heat down. 50 mils water.


----------



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

Thanks guys for all the advice. We managed to get the wall looking really good the customer is happy. The house was built in 1929 but was completely gutted. It was all new drywall with a good hanger they shimmed out low studs and planned a high one. Than a excellent finisher did the level 5 checking it with halogens. So basically I was starting with a beautiful canvas that made my job easier. We primed the wall with gardz and did three coats of cashmere sanding lightly between coats.


----------

