# PPG breakthrough



## paintcore.ca

I did some testing with breakthrough today. I read about it on the forum and it sounded awesome so I grabbed a gallon in satin OC-91 ivory tusk. I got a trim package to spray and thought this might be a good product for it. All pumps were in use so I used a reduced pressure tech line gun with a 1.7 tip, and pressure at 30 psi. I thinned the material 4 oz to a quart. 2 oz dyna flo and 2 oz warm water. Wow this stuff drys really fast, atomizes great, and I was able to sand within half an hour with 400 grit to de-nibb. I Didn't prime the door I did the sample on just to see what this stuff was made of. Crazy adhesion and hardness for only a couple hrs dry time, so far i gotta say this product rocks! Can't Waite to see what happens once this stuff cures. Any body else using this stuff on a regular basis! I wonder what the gloss looks like.


----------



## straight_lines

That does look really nice. Do you think you would have had enough open time on large work pieces with that reduction?


----------



## Xmark

i hear that they only sell it in satin and gloss. to get a semi-gloss i suppose you can mix a gloss+satin together. i wonder if a clear top-coat of valspar (zenith) conversion varnish would make it bullet proof?

-or use the satin breakthrough and put a semi-gloss clear coat on top.

have you ever used a base coat of primer topped off with a clear conversion varnish? i've seen samples in white and it looks great.


----------



## paintcore.ca

straight_lines said:


> That does look really nice. Do you think you would have had enough open time on large work pieces with that reduction?


With a airless or air assisted your good. I haven't sprayed it straight up with out thinning and a pump system. Will get back to you on that. I think I'm gonna use it on a wainscot job I have coming up.


----------



## ROOMINADAY

I painted 2 concrete floors with it last week. One was in a laundry room. I pulled the w/d out and just brushed the floor behind them and an hour later....SLID then across the newly painted surface (fully expecting to t/u)...not a mark! Rest of the floor was cut and rolled, covered amazing.

The hot water washer hose leaked after install that (15 years old) and made a river to the floor drain and the paint showed signs of tint washing out, so I was more than happy to repaint it since it was kind of our fault. So, less than 24 hours later the front load washed was slid back and forth a few times and no scratches, gouges, or burnishing. When it dried the floor was as solid as before - :thumbsup:

This stuff is amazing, I am going to use more of it. I am just not sure the satin has enough sheen to look good in a kitchen


----------



## paintcore.ca

Xmark said:


> i hear that they only sell it in satin and gloss. to get a semi-gloss i suppose you can mix a gloss+satin together. i wonder if a clear top-coat of valspar (zenith) conversion varnish would make it bullet proof?
> 
> -or use the satin breakthrough and put a semi-gloss clear coat on top.
> 
> have you ever used a base coat of primer topped off with a clear conversion varnish? i've seen samples in white and it looks great.


I have used SW conversion varnish solvent. Deadly stuff to work with. Superior finish but I would never spray it in an occupied home also its over kill for some stuff. Also used ml Campbell aguaburnice and 2k aguathane urethane. The agua burnice is preety good and easy to use. The 2k not so much, I couldn't strain the stuff for the life of me. Little bits in it after the catalyst was added, I think I got a old gallon to be honest. Tried valspar zenith pre cat a few years ago, I prefer kem aqua. Nicer finish and better build IMO. But I have heard that valspar has gotten really good with there WB lately. That zenith conversion varnish looks crazy, I should pick up a gallon. Lately I have been spraying aluminum oxide clears over base coats if I'm looking for added durability stuff is nails and easy to spray. Also the surface tension on it is good with great flow out.


----------



## Xmark

paintcore.ca said:


> I have used SW conversion varnish solvent. Deadly stuff to work with. Superior finish but I would never spray it in an occupied home also its over kill for some stuff. Also used ml Campbell aguaburnice and 2k aguathane urethane. The agua burnice is preety good and easy to use. The 2k not so much, I couldn't strain the stuff for the life of me. Little bits in it after the catalyst was added, I think I got a old gallon to be honest. Tried valspar zenith pre cat a few years ago, I prefer kem aqua. Nicer finish and better build IMO. But I have heard that valspar has gotten really good with there WB lately. That zenith conversion varnish looks crazy, I should pick up a gallon. Lately I have been spraying aluminum oxide clears over base coats if I'm looking for added durability stuff is nails and easy to spray. Also the surface tension on it is good with great flow out.


i went to a seminar and we sprayed the waterborne valspar zenith conversion varnish with an air assisted rig. it was over the valspar wb wiping stain. we dried it with those directional type heaters and coated it within 20 minutes. The valspar is amazing and bullet proof. i'm going to be testing it more on some old cabinet doors i just picked up. both the conversion varnish and the (white) zenith valspar wb lacquer. they gave me 1/2 gallon each of the clear wb conversion varnish,white wb precat lacquer ,clear zenith wb precat and wb zenith primer.


----------



## woodcoyote

I've never used it before, looks great though.

Dumb question maybe, but what's the difference between this stuff and let's say Sherwin's pro-classic? Other than just one is an acrylic and the other is enamel. Just elasticity and dry times?


----------



## PatsPainting

woodcoyote said:


> I've never used it before, looks great though.
> 
> Dumb question maybe, but what's the difference between this stuff and let's say Sherwin's pro-classic? Other than just one is an acrylic and the other is enamel. Just elasticity and dry times?


When I first ran into this stuff it was made by Vanex. This was about 10 years ago or so. It was one of those summer lunch deals that most paint stores have once a year. They have venders from all over going over chit. This Vanex guy was holding a wire mesh type screen where you see on security doors. Saying this stuff is excellent for preventing rust. He was saying that they have thrown everything under the sun at it and it never rusted. He then started to go on about adhesion and stuff and say's it sticks to oil really good. Meaning it's a water borne that requires no bonding primmer.

After years and years of using this stuff, this guy was almost dead on. I have only used it on those security screen doors and garage doors. A few wrought iron gates here and there and it did start to rust after 5-6 years. This was a gate about two blocks from the beach. Chit load of salt in the air so I would think any wrought iron that close would rust allot sooner.

It sticks to just about any surface and like other have said in this thread, let it dry for 30 minutes and you will not be able to scratch it off.

Great product in my opinion.

Pat


----------



## woodcoyote

Interesting. We don't have a lot of rust around here, it happens but it might take 15 or 20 years just depends. 

Where are you all buying this stuff? I've never heard of PPG, doubt I could even get it locally. Stores we have here are: Sherwin, Kwal, and Dun Edwards.


----------



## PatsPainting

woodcoyote said:


> Interesting. We don't have a lot of rust around here, it happens but it might take 15 or 20 years just depends.
> 
> Where are you all buying this stuff? I've never heard of PPG, doubt I could even get it locally. Stores we have here are: Sherwin, Kwal, and Dun Edwards.


Where are you from, guessing by Dun Edwards and no rust. Arizona?

I would think just random local stores. Hit and miss type of thing. Two BM store close to me sell it. Have not seen it anywhere else.

Pat


----------



## woodcoyote

Interesting, might have to check it out, I bet it would look good on interior painted doors. I usually would use Pro Classic for that stuff, including trim, but who knows maybe there's something better out there like this. 

I'm from New Mexico, but everyone says Arizona so I guess it's close enough.


----------



## PatsPainting

woodcoyote said:


> Interesting, might have to check it out, I bet it would look good on interior painted doors. I usually would use Pro Classic for that stuff, including trim, but who knows maybe there's something better out there like this.
> 
> I'm from New Mexico, but everyone says Arizona so I guess it's close enough.


If it was between BM advance and Breakthrough I would choose Advance. The 30 minutes dry thing and the hardness would be a little concern for me on interior wood. But then again I never tried it on wood so I really don't know.

Pat


----------



## woodcoyote

Sorry didn't clarify when I said "doors". They aren't wood doors, they are that composite material, hollow core doors. Almost like fiberglass.


----------



## Damon T

Xmark said:


> i hear that they only sell it in satin and gloss. to get a semi-gloss i suppose you can mix a gloss+satin together. i wonder if a clear top-coat of valspar (zenith) conversion varnish would make it bullet proof?
> 
> -or use the satin breakthrough and put a semi-gloss clear coat on top.
> 
> have you ever used a base coat of primer topped off with a clear conversion varnish? i've seen samples in white and it looks great.


They do make a breakthrough clear, so I guess you could topcoat with that. 

Btw the ppg tech dept says not to use extenders only water for thinning. That's the party line anyways


----------



## Damon T

straight_lines said:


> That does look really nice. Do you think you would have had enough open time on large work pieces with that reduction?











These pics are about 6 months later after coming back to do some interior work. 










We did about 50 doors with the satin black finish, shooting it straight with a 410 FFT and a 440 or 395 pump. Once I got the hang of it, and figured out how to block the sun on all the south facing doors it was awesome. I would think in a controlled environment like interior you should be good. That being said the first time my guys used it we shot a whole millpak including all the interior doors standing up, and by the time we shot the front side of all the doors, the back side was covered in a light dust of overspray, and had to stop and vac everything before shooting the rest. Dried really fast, but was a hot day and probably some of their technique too.


----------



## VanDamme

I use it all the time. Just finished a cabinet job using Satin. Sprayed the cabinet doors with a conventional and they looked awesome!

Have about a week left painting all the woodwork, crown, doors, etc. in an occupied 3-story house by brush. I've always used a touch of Pitt-Tech conditioner. You can make this stuff flow really nice!


----------



## paintcore.ca

Xmark said:


> i went to a seminar and we sprayed the waterborne valspar zenith conversion varnish with an air assisted rig. it was over the valspar wb wiping stain. we dried it with those directional type heaters and coated it within 20 minutes. The valspar is amazing and bullet proof. i'm going to be testing it more on some old cabinet doors i just picked up. both the conversion varnish and the (white) zenith valspar wb lacquer. they gave me 1/2 gallon each of the clear wb conversion varnish,white wb precat lacquer ,clear zenith wb precat and wb zenith primer.


Let us know how the valspar line works out. Like I said I heard they have re- formulated since I have used it last. Would be nice to see some pics.


----------



## woodcoyote

How bullet proof is bullet proof?


----------



## Damon T

paintcore.ca said:


> I did some testing with breakthrough today. I read about it on the forum and it sounded awesome so I grabbed a gallon in satin OC-91 ivory tusk. I got a trim package to spray and thought this might be a good product for it. All pumps were in use so I used a reduced pressure tech line gun with a 1.7 tip, and pressure at 30 psi. I thinned the material 4 oz to a quart. 2 oz dyna flo and 2 oz warm water. Wow this stuff drys really fast, atomizes great, and I was able to sand within half an hour with 400 grit to de-nibb. I Didn't prime the door I did the sample on just to see what this stuff was made of. Crazy adhesion and hardness for only a couple hrs dry time, so far i gotta say this product rocks! Can't Waite to see what happens once this stuff cures. Any body else using this stuff on a regular basis! I wonder what the gloss looks like.


Hey Paintcore
Would you say the 4oz to quart thinning is ideal for the Titan 115 setup? Also, based on your experience would you suggest a #5 setup or other? This would be without inline heating etc 

Also, their gloss is around 70 degrees I believe. I'll have to double check. The satin is 25-30. 
Any further updates on your trim job with it? Thanks


----------



## paintcore.ca

Damon T said:


> Hey Paintcore
> Would you say the 4oz to quart thinning is ideal for the Titan 115 setup? Also, based on your experience would you suggest a #5 setup or other? This would be without inline heating etc
> 
> Also, their gloss is around 70 degrees I believe. I'll have to double check. The satin is 25-30.
> Any further updates on your trim job with it? Thanks


I think that reduction should be fine. You should be able to spray that with a #3 or #4 tip set no problem. I use a pressurized gravity cup gun so it might need the #5 if using syphon feed gun. No updates on trim pack yet. Waiting for date to start the gig. I would warm up the paint to room temp if you can. I think I'm gonna try out the gloss soon.


----------



## GrantsPainting

*Breakthrough*

I buy all my paint from PPG. They just bought the company that makes the product. 

Can you brush and roll the Breakthrough product or only spray?

How does it level out?


----------



## STAR

My rep is going to comp me a gallon to try! I hope this product can be brushed without too much effort...looks like a great contender for trim work.


----------



## VanDamme

GrantsPainting said:


> I buy all my paint from PPG. They just bought the company that makes the product.
> 
> Can you brush and roll the Breakthrough product or only spray?
> 
> How does it level out?


It will level out great with a touch of water or extender


----------



## Zoomer

It looks like breakthrough and advance are the new goto products for trim. We love the advance. Now have to try breakthrough


----------



## kdpaint

I will take Breakthrough over Advance on any job that was not new construction with painting being the last trade in, or shop work with plenty of time and space to wait for cure. I just don't see Advance as being anything other than a specialty paint. I think it looks good, but its a PITA due to too many considerations that have been gone over in previous threads. There are plenty of great 100% acrylics I can use instead.
I know some people love it, that's great. It's not good enough to adjust my systems around it.


----------



## GrantsPainting

kdpaint said:


> I will take Breakthrough over Advance on any job that was not new construction with painting being the last trade in, or shop work with plenty of time and space to wait for cure. I just don't see Advance as being anything other than a specialty paint. I think it looks good, but its a PITA due to too many considerations that have been gone over in previous threads. There are plenty of great 100% acrylics I can use instead.
> I know some people love it, that's great. It's not good enough to adjust my systems around it.



Do you ever brush and roll? Can you make a brush and roll look like a sprayed surface or.... 

And is there alot of brush drag?


----------



## kdpaint

If you are talking about Breakthrough, I have rolled then brushed it out, but it does dry pretty fast. If you are slow, or indecisive about how you brush out Breakthrough, it might be a problem. I would cut it with some water. That being said, I can brush it to look almost sprayed. With a micro fiber 4" roller on doors it looks sprayed. Or, I can just spray it. 
Covering darker colors with lighter ones, Advance can be a three coat job. Not a deal breaker in and of itself, but with all the other issues, recoat time, cure, etc, I just skip it.


----------



## Kirbyworks

Anybody shot Breakthrough with an HVLP?
Anybody see it in quarts?
Any idea how it resists fading or oxidation compared to Superpaint or a hot fast dry?

If it flows out w/ an HVLP, comes in quarts, and doesn't fade much it would make a great front door paint.


----------



## Damon T

Kirbyworks said:


> Anybody shot Breakthrough with an HVLP?
> Anybody see it in quarts?
> Any idea how it resists fading or oxidation compared to Superpaint or a hot fast dry?
> 
> If it flows out w/ an HVLP, comes in quarts, and doesn't fade much it would make a great front door paint.


I think it's only in gallons. Paintcore posted a nice pic of it shot hvlp thinned 4 oz to 32 oz.


----------



## GrantsPainting

My paint guy hasn't priced me out on that. What should I expect? I asked when they were demo'ing but I just got a "Kinda Pricey" LOL


----------



## Damon T

It's been a few months but I think I was at mid 40's.


----------



## GrantsPainting

Has anybody use both Breakthrough and Advantage 900. Ive never used either but I need to make a change. Right now Im using the waterborne alkyd Glypetex but it just takes too long to dry. Sure is "bullet proof" and levels out super well but only after days instead of 12-24. 

Ive got a better sprayer now so I dont need as much leveling. And weh body I could sure be happy about not having a wait time in there while I try to cut in ceilings and not even slightly touch the trim.


----------



## Jazz_Painter

Has anybody used Breakthrough on a pre primmed (red primer) metal stair? They are delivering one on the job site I'm working on, it's gonna be inside, but it's gonna have lots of circulation on it. I usually go oil for that kind of job (Like the KP-22 of BM), but in the context where I work a faster drying and less smelling product would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Damon T

Checks the TDS but sounds like you are good to go.


----------



## Jazz_Painter

It's rated for metal, also concrete floors with use of forklifts, so I guess it can work for metal stairs for sure, then let's see if the steps hold well. I'm still hesitant but will be trying it.


----------



## Damon T

Definitely rated for floors. I'd just want to be sure it's compatible with whatever the red primer is. I suggest do a test spot and leave overnight. If it's bonded well next day you should be good to go


----------



## painter dude

just started using breakthrough, only satin. also curious about mixing satin and gloss, but was told that the bases (?) were different and would not "mix well". like it but doesn't seem to cover well brushing (2-3 coats) haven't sprayed yet. door looks great.


----------



## Damon T

I talked to the store guy who actually knows a lot about Breakrhrough. He said when you mix sheens the lower sheen is dominant. So the satin at 25 degrees and the gloss at 70 degrees don't end up splitting the difference at 47 degrees. It might be more like 35-40 degrees.


----------



## Jmayspaint

Damon T said:


> I talked to the store guy who actually knows a lot about Breakrhrough. He said when you mix sheens the lower sheen is dominant. So the satin at 25 degrees and the gloss at 70 degrees don't end up splitting the difference at 47 degrees. It might be more like 35-40 degrees.



That's the way it is with most paints. I've made my share of "apartment mix" over the years. Flat dominates. 

I've been experimenting with Breakthrough lately too. I think I can see a potential for a real sweet, hard finish. It's not easy to apply though. I haven't been able to get more than a couple mil on per coat by hand without it running crazy, and that compromises hide. It's super fast, kinda like Bin to apply. Also like Bin, it can level very well if you don't play with it too much. Haven't tried spraying it yet. 

If I can figure it out a little better, I might like it for some trim jobs. Might use it on a small one next week. I'm awfully spoiled on Advance right now, but I'm getting bored and slightly annoyed with it. 

Anybody tried Breakthrough over old oil enamel? If it would bond to that, it would be awesome.


----------



## Hines Painting

I've been looking into breakthrough as well. The only place I can get it locally is from a lumber store that can order it. I'm not sure if they can even tint it or what the deal is but they are going to look into it for me. 

I just started a set of cabinets and the dry time on the stuff I like to use is going to kill me. It's a water/oil hybrid that doesn't dry to the touch for 4 hours. The finish is awesome, but I'm gonna have to drive 40 minutes each way to spray a coat on doors 4 days this week. 

Just the thought of it is enough that I've started to look into breakthrough and started sketching up rough plans for a collapsible spray booth for my garage. 

I'm gonna end up having to drive out to this house for a total of 7 days for an amount of money that does not cover 7 days lol.


----------



## Damon T

Jmayspaint said:


> That's the way it is with most paints. I've made my share of "apartment mix" over the years. Flat dominates.
> 
> I've been experimenting with Breakthrough lately too. I think I can see a potential for a real sweet, hard finish. It's not easy to apply though. I haven't been able to get more than a couple mil on per coat by hand without it running crazy, and that compromises hide. It's super fast, kinda like Bin to apply. Also like Bin, it can level very well if you don't play with it too much. Haven't tried spraying it yet.
> 
> If I can figure it out a little better, I might like it for some trim jobs. Might use it on a small one next week. I'm awfully spoiled on Advance right now, but I'm getting bored and slightly annoyed with it.
> 
> Anybody tried Breakthrough over old oil enamel? If it would bond to that, it would be awesome.



Yes to bonding over old oil enamel. Excellent adhesion. 
Glad to hear it's brushing well for you. 
Repaint Florida said they had good luck applying it in the field with 1/4" rollers. Still waiting to hear which ones.....hint hint RF ;-).


----------



## straight_lines

Hines Painting said:


> I've been looking into breakthrough as well. The only place I can get it locally is from a lumber store that can order it. I'm not sure if they can even tint it or what the deal is but they are going to look into it for me.
> 
> I just started a set of cabinets and the dry time on the stuff I like to use is going to kill me. It's a water/oil hybrid that doesn't dry to the touch for 4 hours. The finish is awesome, but I'm gonna have to drive 40 minutes each way to spray a coat on doors 4 days this week.
> 
> Just the thought of it is enough that I've started to look into breakthrough and started sketching up rough plans for a collapsible spray booth for my garage.
> 
> I'm gonna end up having to drive out to this house for a total of 7 days for an amount of money that does not cover 7 days lol.


 Michael switch to acrylic lacquer and you can turn those cabinets around much faster. I can do a set almost twice as fast with it compared to using wb/oil. Only drawback is the finish is spray only. 

We finish doors and drawer fronts in the shop and a lot of times we have one that got damaged in the move or maybe has some dust that got missed. We just sand it out and recoat on site. An hour later its ready to install.


----------



## Different Strokes

Is it safe to assume that Breakthrough would bite tight to polyurethaned kitchen cabinets if applied directly without primer? 

Skipping the bin shellac primer on cabinets would be fantastical. :thumbsup:


----------



## Hines Painting

straight_lines said:


> Michael switch to acrylic lacquer and you can turn those cabinets around much faster. I can do a set almost twice as fast with it compared to using wb/oil. Only drawback is the finish is spray only.
> 
> We finish doors and drawer fronts in the shop and a lot of times we have one that got damaged in the move or maybe has some dust that got missed. We just sand it out and recoat on site. An hour later its ready to install.


What do you do about the boxes when containment on site for spraying is not possible?


----------



## Repaint Florida

Sorry guys been swamped with work / family but i'll try to sit down tonight to answer questions about breakthrough ... especially cabinet painting using it

In the mean time here is a link to my old post on cabinet painting with breakthrough maybe it will answer a few questions 

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/kitchen-cabinet-painting-orlando-fl-34377/

Fri, Sat & Sun i am taking a break and will be traveling the St Johns River in a shanty boat & sleeping in a boat on the river will give me a nice quite time to work on a new website i am building orlandokitchencabinetpainting.com/


Damon, sorry i through i sent you the roller it's but we use Micro Fiber 1/4 mini rollers i get from PPB 

i have 2 more cabinets we start when i get back from my trip so i'll post pic


----------



## Jmayspaint

I rolled some on some smooth laminate cabinet doors with a 3/8 Purdy microfiber. It leveled out very nicely, though I did get a big run on the top of the panel. Definitely see how it could roll out awesome if I can get the hang of it. I noticed a few guys in this thread have recommended thinning or adding extender. Seems awfully thin to me already. 

RF, do your guys thin or use additives for hand application?


----------



## Repaint Florida

Jmayspaint said:


> I rolled some on some smooth laminate cabinet doors with a 3/8 Purdy microfiber. It leveled out very nicely, though I did get a big run on the top of the panel. Definitely see how it could roll out awesome if I can get the hang of it. I noticed a few guys in this thread have recommended thinning or adding extender. Seems awfully thin to me already.
> 
> RF, do your guys thin or use additives for hand application?


We never thin but we use 20+ gal a month so my painters have gotten it down pretty good

my whole shop has samples, laminate floors, counter tops, wood, steel, fiberglass it sticks to anything, my favorite is spray half a kick ball and show the customer how it sticks & bends ... you can squeeze it and the paint sticks
it sells the HO everytime


----------



## Jazz_Painter

Damon T said:


> Definitely rated for floors. I'd just want to be sure it's compatible with whatever the red primer is. I suggest do a test spot and leave overnight. If it's bonded well next day you should be good to go


Red primer is classic anti rust metal primer, oil based. Not sure which brand they use but aren't they all more or less the same as this one ? : http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=200


----------



## Jmayspaint

I'm curious what series you guys are using locally. With the satin, looks like there are two different versions. Here in TN I'm getting the V50-410, but they also have the V56-410. As far as I can tell the main difference is VOC content. 

The V50 I'm trying out falls under 250 and the V56 is under 50. Don't see much difference in the specs although I noticed the V56 isn't rated for ceramic tile like the V50 is. 

I guess it depends on the VOC regs in your state as to which version is available? What are you getting out west Damon? I'm guessing FL is the same as TN?


----------



## straight_lines

Hines Painting said:


> What do you do about the boxes when containment on site for spraying is not possible?


You have to build it. Most kitchens you we do the worst is having to put up zip walls. Or do the bases in another paint.


----------



## Jmayspaint

I fear the deal breaker for me is going to be the lack of availability in semi gloss. Locally, semi is the sheen of choice for trim. I might sell the gloss on occasion, but satin trim is rare around here.


----------



## Hines Painting

straight_lines said:


> You have to build it. Most kitchens you we do the worst is having to put up zip walls. Or do the bases in another paint.


I think most kitchens would be fine, but I just looked at some cabinets yesterday that had an open kitchen, into the dining room, with vaulted ceilings. Started at 9 or 10 feet on the low side and ended at around 18 feet on the far end of the dining room. Not sure how I could build containment with a height of around 14 feet. Guess maybe I could clear out the whole dining room and zip wall the 2 doorways and plastic all the walls but that is a lot of extra headache. 

Have you tried brushing any of the WB lacquer? 

I think the store I use locally can get Valspar Zenith WB lacquer...is that what you're using? Or something else?


----------



## Damon T

Jmayspaint said:


> I'm curious what series you guys are using locally. With the satin, looks like there are two different versions. Here in TN I'm getting the V50-410, but they also have the V56-410. As far as I can tell the main difference is VOC content.
> 
> The V50 I'm trying out falls under 250 and the V56 is under 50. Don't see much difference in the specs although I noticed the V56 isn't rated for ceramic tile like the V50 is.
> 
> I guess it depends on the VOC regs in your state as to which version is available? What are you getting out west Damon? I'm guessing FL is the same as TN?



I've only used the regular voc. They can order the low Voc but don't stock it. The regular does get pretty stinky without lots of airflow. Nothing like oil but still stinky.


----------



## DeanV

Are you still priming kitchen under breakthrough or applying direct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Damon T

It's not stain blocking so you need to prime if over bleeding woods. Ppg seal grip is what is suggests on the tds. That's what RF said he uses. 
I would think shellac would be good too but haven't used it underneath. 
I've mostly used it over previously painted surfaces


----------



## jeffnc

Couple notes on my experience. Really like the paint. Great finish for cabinets, etc. Pretty runny, so thin coats and a deft touch and some patience are required, but nothing anyone here can't handle. The leveling is excellent, especially considering the thinness of the coat and the drying time. Obviously, you don't want to work it over and over.

Regarding gloss/sheen, I can understand the qualms about lack of semi-gloss, but anecdotally the satin is a fairly glossy satin, and looks great on cabinets, for example.

I'm assuming the following relates to Break-through, in which case I think the units are confused. Gloss isn't normally measured in degrees - the angle is a variable used to measure the actual units.
http://www.paintinfo.com/mpi/approved/sheen.shtml



Damon T said:


> Also, their gloss is around 70 degrees I believe. I'll have to double check. The satin is 25-30.


If you read these as standard units, it would seem to imply that satin is really no more glossy than a standard satin, but to my eye the Breakthrough satin looks a little more glossy than that.


----------

