# Opinions - Car Siding - Stain and Varnish.



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

So, I'm getting ready to Stain and Poly some Car Siding for a porch ceiling.
Wondering if the back side should be sealed (assuming yes), and would you use poly for the back side as well, or other? 
Back side feels a little "waxy" not sure what that is, but test areas seem to stain okay...

Best option vs. most economical? 

https://forums.jlconline.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=1006628


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> So, I'm getting ready to Stain and Poly some Car Siding for a porch ceiling.
> Wondering if the back side should be sealed (assuming yes), and would you use poly for the back side as well, or other?
> Back side feels a little "waxy" not sure what that is, but test areas seem to stain okay...
> 
> ...


Car Siding?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Car Siding?


(See pic)

Sometimes referred to as Box Car Siding.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

It’s technically an exterior surface, but is a covered porch ceiling that will be protected from the elements.

There is a fair amount of material to finish, and am trying to keep costs and labor down. 

Would you seal the back side, and if so, what would you use?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> It’s exterior, but is a covered porch ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a paint forum? WTF?


Just looks like t&g? Never heard of car siding


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Just looks like t&g? Never heard of car siding


Can't say that ever again.

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...-groove-carsiding/1411326/p-1444443100877.htm

https://www.hunker.com/12479370/how-to-use-pine-car-siding-on-the-ceiling


But I think you missed the point.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I don't think the particular terminology matters. By the link I'd just call it 1x6 T&G. Matters not. It's pine.


It's under roof. If I was worried about costs, I'd skip sealing the back but that also depends on climate. And if there's reason to worry on that account (like super-humid area) I'd worry more about end-grains.


If you want to keep material costs down, just take any exterior anything you have laying around from other jobs and slap that on there - and on the end grains.


If it's not a particularly humid area and the roof will be in good shape and maintained, I'd just say skip it.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I’m familiar with the term, might be a regional thing. About a 1 x 6 t&g with a V-groove at the joints? 

I can’t see much value in sealing the backside. On a ceiling it has no exposure unless the roof leaks. And if that happens, a coat of poly probably won’t save it.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Holland said:


> Can't say that ever again.
> 
> https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...-groove-carsiding/1411326/p-1444443100877.htm
> 
> ...



Lol. So that’s why I couldn’t quote that post; a penalty flag was thrown and the play was being reviewed. 


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Thanks.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> Can't say that ever again.
> 
> https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...-groove-carsiding/1411326/p-1444443100877.htm
> 
> ...



Are you looking for a traditional stain + varnish look or maybe just a exterior stain?


Sikkens log + siding used to be popular. Arborcoat+clear would be easy. or stain + poly like any other finish.


I would seal the back sides with benite, poly, primer, sho sugi ban etc. anything is better than leaving them unsealed. thank your self in 10 years when they still look new.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Are you looking for a traditional stain + varnish look or maybe just a exterior stain?
> 
> 
> Sikkens log + siding used to be popular. Arborcoat+clear would be easy. or stain + poly like any other finish.
> ...


Will be matching some wood that is nearby but on the inside, so for that reason will stick with Stain + Oil Poly (same as used previously). 

Appreciate the feedback. I suppose anything laying around would work, and can justify the extra labor in several years (as you mentioned). Now that you mention it, I have a several partial cans of deck stain sitting around that would be perfect for the back side. 

I would love to have a reason to try Sho Sugi Bon. Have heard that after burning, some people recommend using an S/T oil based deck stain on top of the charred wood. To seal and enhance color. I think the effectiveness of that step depends on how charred the wood is.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> Will be matching some wood that is nearby but on the inside, so for that reason will stick with Stain + Oil Poly (same as used previously).
> 
> Appreciate the feedback. I suppose anything laying around would work, and can justify the extra labor in several years (as you mentioned). Now that you mention it, I have a several partial cans of deck stain sitting around that would be perfect for the back side.
> 
> I would love to have a reason to try Sho Sugi Bon. Have heard that after burning, some people recommend using an S/T oil based deck stain on top of the charred wood. To seal and enhance color. I think the effectiveness of that step depends on how charred the wood is.



Total charring effectively seals the surface on its own, If you want to stain sho sugi ban you need to either do a surface char or wire brush the surface to reveal the soft grain. WB Dyes work better than oil stains... personally I prefer the look at just a surface char but its more difficult to achieve an even finish.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Total charring effectively seals the surface on its own, If you want to stain sho sugi ban you need to either do a surface char or wire brush the surface to reveal the soft grain. WB Dyes work better than oil stains... personally I prefer the look at just a surface char but its more difficult to achieve an even finish.


yes, wire brush. 

Yes, total charring effectively seals the wood.

There are levels of char that one can choose from for sho shugi bon (just like roasting a marshmallow?). Lighter charred wood looks really nice, but is not very deeply burnt and there can be raw wood showing. It is my understanding that exterior semi-transparent oil-based stain is ideal in this scenario.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Car Siding?


Be honest, is this what you were thinking about? 

http://www.lamag.com/driver/history-woodie/


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> Be honest, is this what you were thinking about?
> 
> http://www.lamag.com/driver/history-woodie/


Haha. Obviously!

On new wood, I'm a firm believer in back priming. Anything you throw on there wil certainly help. You'll sleep better at night. What's it gonna take for a quick coat on the backs of those on a saw horse. 30 mins? All the same, under a porch, no weather it may not make a huge diffence. You could leave it bare and probably nothing would happen to it for years and years.. Is it yours or a clients'?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Haha. Obviously!
> 
> On new wood, I'm a firm believer in back priming. Anything you throw on there wil certainly help. You'll sleep better at night. What's it gonna take for a quick coat on the backs of those on a saw horse. 30 mins? All the same, under a porch, no weather it may not make a huge diffence. You could leave it bare and probably nothing would happen to it for years and years.. Is it yours or a clients'?


I'm a firm believer in sealing backs also, but was trying to justify the time/cost for something that was almost an interior wood. 

Using Covid Time to catch up on a few personal projects.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Prior to installation, I had bench primed and applied 1st of two finish coats on 72K linear feet of 6” boxcar siding without sealing the backs as per directive from the GC, which was not in accordance with my recommendations to seal the backs. The material was for interior walls and ceilings. It ended up crowning “horribly” due to the backs not being sealed, and had taken on a very pronounced and not so attractive reversed scalloped appearance. The sheen level really made it jump out. It was one of those “I told you so moments.” 

Thinking it might be a good idea to seal the backs.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

no reason to poly the backside if you put some stain on it. even working for cheap asses, we would stain the backsides down. It was usually specced by the architect though.

It may seem like an interior wood, but it will still succumb to humidity and extreme temp changes.

Whenever I've done that though, we would just spray a light coat on the back, and immediately flip it and do the front side properly. that way, it isnt eating a whole lot of labor. Theres no reason to let the back side dry, its not gonna be seen.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Woodco said:


> no reason to poly the backside if you put some stain on it. even working for cheap asses, we would stain the backsides down. It was usually specced by the architect though.
> 
> It may seem like an interior wood, but it will still succumb to humidity and extreme temp changes.
> 
> Whenever I've done that though, we would just spray a light coat on the back, and immediately flip it and do the front side properly. that way, it isnt eating a whole lot of labor. Theres no reason to let the back side dry, its not gonna be seen.


Planning to seal the backs. Thank you for feedback.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Holland said:


> Planning to seal the backs. Thank you for feedback.


Hold your horses now... Theres gotta be at least five more people coming on here to tell you to seal the back sides...


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## vwbowman (May 15, 2017)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Just looks like t&g? Never heard of car siding


Learn something new everyday! :smile:


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