# splitting corners tip



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

None of us like splitting a corner so you have 3/4" or so left for the next wall - especially with a damask where you can't just mismatch the pattern.

Getting that little strip to run straight and true can be a real booger. Here's a little tip. 

Run your laser beam down the next wall with 3/4" being the max distance from the corner. Hang the next FULL strip (obviously with pattern at correct horizontal placement) along the line. Now insert that little strip in the space provided. LOT easier to hang that 3/4" strip to a straight paper edge than trying to create a straight edge with it. 


BTW, I still hate non-wovens.


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## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

You had my attention right up until you talked about my laser beam. Who am I, George Jetson?

Hung another non-woven today, luckily didn't have your scenario this time.
I do however hang the two together when it happens. Sometimes if there is a match in the middle I'll waste a bit of material to adjust.

What about when it happens on an outside corner? :jester:


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

Laser beam? I just figured out how to use a plumb bob:whistling2:


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## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

cdaniels said:


> Laser beam? I just figured out how to use a plumb bob:whistling2:


I think you could wiggle one of those laser pointers up and down real fast





.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

my laser level has paid for itself many times over, not only in accuracy but in ease of use.

If you have a slanted wall, how do you determine a straight and vertical line?

If you need a border at chair rail height and you are overlaying on the side wall paper, how do you place it without marking the side wall?

How do you drop a vertical line down a 13 ft stair wall ?

How do you drop a vertical from a window header to its footer ? And how do you keep the header and footer absolutely horizontal so the full strip on the other side of the window matches?

They are also great for keeping a pattern horizontal as you go around a corner, or on those damn papers where there is no element at the seam to match. 

Even the cheap $99 Skil Cross line laser level at Lowes is a good buy. It looks exactly like my Stanley Fat Max that I have as a back up or when I need two. And I see a $109 Bosch cross line laser levels at Home Depot 

I use the PLS 180.  costs around $280.


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## Underdog (Mar 9, 2013)

daArch said:


> my laser level has paid for itself many times over, not only in accuracy but in ease of use.
> 
> If you have a slanted wall, how do you determine a straight and vertical line?
> 
> ...


 

Magic




.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Underdog said:


> Magic
> .


YAH! Magic MUSHROOMS :jester:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I gots me one of them thar lazar levels but for some reason when I shake it it doesn't turn on. I have one really and have no clue as to why i even wasted the money in the first place. i am not a carpenter or paper hanger, guess it was one of those must have items.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> . I have one really and have no clue as to why i even wasted the money in the first place. i am not a carpenter or paper hanger, guess it was one of those must have items.



Dave, you are a tradesman, and thus by definition of that term, are a tool junkie. 

no excuse or reason necessary for "needing" a tool. :thumbup:


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

One can never have too many tools. :no:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Now the fun part begins, organizing them :thumbup:

I spent most of Sat in my "wood shop" rearranging my peg board. 

I need more space, obviously.

Tools do accumulate to fill and overfill all available space.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Lazer level-Plumb bob-Plumb Bill.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

plumb loco


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

daArch said:


> Now the fun part begins, organizing them :thumbup:
> 
> I spent most of Sat in my "wood shop" rearranging my peg board.
> 
> ...


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