# TItan capspray 105 HVLP



## nlucero (Jan 21, 2013)

I have bought a Titan Capspray 105 HVLP. I have used it for oil based paints but not water base paints. I am wondering if any one out there that is familiar with this HVLP or other similiar that has painted with water base paint. I am having trouble with the results. First of all it is a Deep base paint dark brown semigloss for metals. I am using it to paint commercial hollow metal door frames. I followed the instructions in how to thin the paint out with water untill it runs till about 30 seconds out from the viscosity cup the provide with the sprayer. What is happeining is I still get orange peel like spray. I imagine its because the thickness of the paint but not sure. I dont want to thin it out too much because it may change the color into a lighter color since it is oil base and there are other door frames there already painted so the difference will be noticeable. Will I ever get a fine looking result like the oil base paints or is there something wrong I am doing? What do you recommend. I tried all the different settiongs with the air adjustment and flow knobs. I notice the droplets or orange peel look is more noticeable when I first begine to spray but still noticealbe . NOt sure how it will dry out like and dont want to take a chance on the door frames. Thanks for your input!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

There's a lot of good past threads. Try doing a search for hvlp. 

That being said, what needle setup are you using? What paint exactly? What product to thin? How many ounces thinner to ounces of paint did you thin? Please be as specific as possible. 
Your machine should work great with the right setup.
Sorry I just saw it was WB not oil, and that you thinned with water.


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## mr.fixit (Aug 16, 2009)

are you using a #3 needle nozzle set that would be your best bet for water base


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## Painter One (Feb 5, 2012)

mr.fixit said:


> are you using a #3 needle nozzle set that would be your best bet for water base


I thought it would take a 4 or a 5! I think you still have to reduce it with water and floetrol or xim extender, sure wish I knew for sure.....!!!!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

My Titan rep and spec sheet suggest #5 for WB. Depending on product you can heat to reduce viscosity and if necessary add a little water. Shouldn't need more than 2-3 ounces per quart cup. 
If its Aura you may need a #6, or just break out the airless ;-)


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## Sustainable in OR. (Dec 30, 2010)

*CAP SPRAY 105 HVLP/Spray Results*

Cap Spray / HVLP Painting Issue

I am using CapSpray 115 HVLP 6 Stage. 

Today I did a job exactly like what you are describing doing with your 105. 

I used Oil based Enamel and reduced with XIM Solvent Based Extender.
(I wont use any other product than XIM & Never Mineral Spirits, same goes or Latex Paints, I'm using XIM Latex Extender)
Use the #3 Tip/Needle set up. 
Would suggest that although you are thinking that over thinning might be a problem, you can get it fairly thin and still be very successful.
Check your distance from working surface, try staying about 8" or so from surface with tip of gun. Widen out fan as much as you can. 
Dial down the material, many folks attempt to apply too much material.(Common during learning this machine). Next step, dial down air flow until just above the place that material is sputtering or oozing out of tip then adjust upward for a bit more air. 
Use the low speed setting on your main switch (Think 105 has this feature). Your not needing to use high setting as material is fairly thin. 

Slowing down and realizing this is not the same technique as an AAA or AA with a FF tip. 
Hope this helps, Good Luck!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Actually the op was describing a problem with WB paints, not oil. Alkyd seems to be a lot more forgiving with orange peel etc. ok a lot more!


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