# Advice on spraying Benjamin moore Advance



## jwash348 (Oct 21, 2018)

I have read through numerous post to find out different techniques. unfortunately, I didn't read the post with the best advice first. I found out that a very thin coat for spraying advanced with an airless for trim/ cabinets worked great followed by a another fog/ light coat once it appeared dry by looking at it 15-30 minutes later. I was just wondering if anyone else has advice when spraying advance or new tips that I could learn. BTW I am using a FFLP 310


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I had the best luck when i switched to a 308 and didnt thin it, and put a dehumidifier in the room. Fog on a coat, wait 5-10, then give it just enough of another coat where it coalesces. Hold the gun about 10 inches away, with quick double wet coat passes, like a car paint.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

If you spray it twice before it dries, that's still one coat. 



You need to let it dry overnight for sufficient paint film, cure, and adhesion .


It can dry to touch in an hour or two, but that doesn't mean it's ready for second coat.


I plan my work day to spray at end of day or have something to do while the Advance dries.. Then spray 2nd coat next day.


Usually when we are using Advance, us painters, and the clients want the job done right.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

we usually like to spray one coat in a warm house and let it dry overnight. Then the following day a second coat. When spraying it on cabinets or intricate detailed door frames it could have a tendency to run if you spray on the first coat too thick. I have discovered over the years after spraying hundreds of gallons of this material that using a fine finish tip usually in an orifice size 210 or even a 110 from TRI-TECH Works far better than anything else. If you are using a 310 or a orifice of four or even orifice of five you are just wasting your time your money and your efforts since you are putting on too much material at one given time. A 1:10 or 2:10 will work just fine unless of course you are spraying doors where you could bump it to possibly a 212 or A 310 but in my honest opinion I have used those larger orifices and I've never found my work to be as Flawless as when I sprayed Benjamin Moore Advance in a 110 or 210.keep in mind that if you get a run or a sag in your material you can easily buff it out with a clean soft rag soaked in denatured alcohol rather than trying to sand it out which usually just leaves a gummy mess. The TDS in manufacturer's instructions are given for a reason. They have tested these materials time and time again in factory conditions before actually releasing these paint to the general public and US contractors. Of course as contractors tweak are methods slightly but if you go off onto a tangent and you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then you don't get the full benefits of the paint after it has cured.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I'm sure advance is fine paint but god if I have to jump through that many hoops with that kind of a learning curve, aura seems to be the same way, I'm using something else.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

kmp said:


> I'm sure advance is fine paint but god if I have to jump through that many hoops with that kind of a learning curve, aura seems to be the same way, I'm using something else.


A lot of high end remodels these days actually want advance used. Its not my first choice either, but learn how to do it right, and (hopefully) it'll pay off in the long run.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Where I live B.M. is only available 70 miles away and so I don't have easy access to it.Where it is available is a high end ski town, Telluride, and even up there they are more concerned about a toilet that will flush 16 golf balls than the paint on their trim.I have seen many houses there with B.M. super spec on the walls. I still won't use it.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Theres high end homes here in Austin that have PM 400 SG on the trim, with no primer underneath. I masked base once to float for wallpaper, and the tape pulled the entire top edge down to bare wood.

But, on the bright side, KMP, Im sure you wont have GC's speccing advance if its not available.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Around here GC's don't really spec anything,most architects don't either which is sometimes a good thing. Most of the time it's "what do you usually use."


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Zoomer said:


> we usually like to spray one coat in a warm house and let it dry overnight. Then the following day a second coat. When spraying it on cabinets or intricate detailed door frames it could have a tendency to run if you spray on the first coat too thick. I have discovered over the years after spraying hundreds of gallons of this material that using a fine finish tip usually in an orifice size 210 or even a 110 from TRI-TECH Works far better than anything else. If you are using a 310 or a orifice of four or even orifice of five you are just wasting your time your money and your efforts since you are putting on too much material at one given time. A 1:10 or 2:10 will work just fine unless of course you are spraying doors where you could bump it to possibly a 212 or A 310 but in my honest opinion I have used those larger orifices and I've never found my work to be as Flawless as when I sprayed Benjamin Moore Advance in a 110 or 210.keep in mind that if you get a run or a sag in your material you can easily buff it out with a clean soft rag soaked in denatured alcohol rather than trying to sand it out which usually just leaves a gummy mess. The TDS in manufacturer's instructions are given for a reason. They have tested these materials time and time again in factory conditions before actually releasing these paint to the general public and US contractors. Of course as contractors tweak are methods slightly but if you go off onto a tangent and you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then you don't get the full benefits of the paint after it has cured.


I've never tried a 110 and I have a new one if my toolbox somewhere. It's been there for years..lol

next railing job I'll give it a go. Tritech? I've never seen those sprayers at the paint stores. Must be a US thing.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Mr Smith said:


> Zoomer said:
> 
> 
> > we usually like to spray one coat in a warm house and let it dry overnight. Then the following day a second coat. When spraying it on cabinets or intricate detailed door frames it could have a tendency to run if you spray on the first coat too thick. I have discovered over the years after spraying hundreds of gallons of this material that using a fine finish tip usually in an orifice size 210 or even a 110 from TRI-TECH Works far better than anything else. If you are using a 310 or a orifice of four or even orifice of five you are just wasting your time your money and your efforts since you are putting on too much material at one given time. A 1:10 or 2:10 will work just fine unless of course you are spraying doors where you could bump it to possibly a 212 or A 310 but in my honest opinion I have used those larger orifices and I've never found my work to be as Flawless as when I sprayed Benjamin Moore Advance in a 110 or 210.keep in mind that if you get a run or a sag in your material you can easily buff it out with a clean soft rag soaked in denatured alcohol rather than trying to sand it out which usually just leaves a gummy mess. The TDS in manufacturer's instructions are given for a reason. They have tested these materials time and time again in factory conditions before actually releasing these paint to the general public and US contractors. Of course as contractors tweak are methods slightly but if you go off onto a tangent and you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then you don't get the full benefits of the paint after it has cured.
> ...


IMO Tri-tech has the best sprayers and the best spray tips.


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## goga (Aug 6, 2015)

Zoomer said:


> IMO Tri-tech has the best sprayers and the best spray tips.


Sprayers are all the same, they just deliver the paint to the gun. Guns and tips are different story, cuz they are to lay out the pumped material. There is no "best" for pumps, there is what you can work with, used to work with, can afford, maintain, etc. I've used many brands with no pump that failed me, ppl are the weak link in using equipment.


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## Puderproductions (Nov 17, 2021)

Zoomer said:


> we usually like to spray one coat in a warm house and let it dry overnight. Then the following day a second coat. When spraying it on cabinets or intricate detailed door frames it could have a tendency to run if you spray on the first coat too thick. I have discovered over the years after spraying hundreds of gallons of this material that using a fine finish tip usually in an orifice size 210 or even a 110 from TRI-TECH Works far better than anything else. If you are using a 310 or a orifice of four or even orifice of five you are just wasting your time your money and your efforts since you are putting on too much material at one given time. A 1:10 or 2:10 will work just fine unless of course you are spraying doors where you could bump it to possibly a 212 or A 310 but in my honest opinion I have used those larger orifices and I've never found my work to be as Flawless as when I sprayed Benjamin Moore Advance in a 110 or 210.keep in mind that if you get a run or a sag in your material you can easily buff it out with a clean soft rag soaked in denatured alcohol rather than trying to sand it out which usually just leaves a gummy mess. The TDS in manufacturer's instructions are given for a reason. They have tested these materials time and time again in factory conditions before actually releasing these paint to the general public and US contractors. Of course as contractors tweak are methods slightly but if you go off onto a tangent and you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then you don't get the full benefits of the paint after it has cured.


You have the numbers mixed up. The first of the three numbers is the fan width when multiplied by two. The second is the orifice. Your example gives the same orifice for all tips, but alters the fan width.


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