# Scraping paint off metal railings



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

This is another part of my SW Corothane job. I pretty much scraped and sanded as much paint, rust and corrosion off the balcony divider at the high rise I am working at. Now I am scraping the railings and spindles/balusters. They appear to have 2 coats of paint on them. The top coat is in the worst shape, but both can be scraped off. I have tried the following to scrape the railings:

1. Various hand scraping tools with various edges.

2. A Black & Decker polisher/sander with 50 grit (this seems to gouge the metal too much)

3. A heat gun and scraper. (This did not work very well even with the heat gun on high)

4. A Dremel Multi-Tool with sandpaper as well as a couple of different scraping attachments.(Not so good)

5. A Rockwell 5" orbital sander with 80 grit. (Not so good)

What I have ended up using the most is a Hyde 2 1/2" carbide blade hooked scraper (see photo below). I have also used a Warner curved scraper, but it doesn't seem to work nearly as well as the Hyde. The curve of the Hyde allows me to scrape the backs of the spindles best out of all the tools I have used so far, and I've got a bunch of scrapers.

I am told by the hi rise engineers just to lightly scrape and slap the paint on and forget it. I am way too anal to be doing this. I feel like the current paint is failing and needs to come off. I just don't want to spend the rest of my natural life scraping paint out on that balcony! There are several sections of posts with 18 spindles in between the posts. Last night I timed myself. I scraped 9 spindles (along with the nearby upper railing) in 95 minutes.

Any thoughts on what tool or method to speed things up would be appreciated. I am sure I left some details out, so if you are curious, ask away?

















In the above photo, the spindles that have been scraped reflect the shiny metal. The spindle in the middle is scraped above, but not below, but it hopefully will be visibly understandable.









Any advice will be appreciated.

Today I am visiting a couple of hardware stores that might have some scrapers I do not yet possess. 

futtyos


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

Any chance a wire wheel would work? That's all I got, Futtyos. Great view btw.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

https://www.festoolusa.com/products...-sanding/567852---ls-130-eq-plus-usa#Overview


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Good point*



Gymschu said:


> Any chance a wire wheel would work? That's all I got, Futtyos. Great view btw.


I was at the BM dealer today and one of the guys mentioned this. I am wondering if the cone shape or flat shape would be better. I have my doubts about both, but since I haven't tried either I guess I need to try them. Thanks,

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*festool for Christmas?*



sayn3ver said:


> https://www.festoolusa.com/products...-sanding/567852---ls-130-eq-plus-usa#Overview


I was just at Berland's House of Tools in Palatine IL the other day looking at the whole collection of Festool products. The owner showed me a block that can be sanded down to fit the shape of what is intended to be sanded, then glue on a holder for the sandpaper.

The spindles are about 3' apart and I don't think this will save me enough time for the monetary outlay. I will still have to do some scraping in between the spindles as well as on the backside of the spindles. This might work, but I will have to really think it out before spending the money for something that I don't look forward to doing again! Thanks for the response.

futtyos


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I love those high rise photos futtyos!

I'd be inclined to do what the building engineers suggested. Remove only the loose coating. Lightly sand, prime, and paint. Especially considering the neighbor's side of the privacy screen will still look like crap. It's not like you're responsible for the original spec or coating on this high rise. You are essentially a maintenance painter of the facility. They get that and are probably very happy to have you around.

Remember, master of illusion. That means not un-necessarily working your butt off.


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

Make a custom sanding block and glue some sandpaper in there, but then just rub it up and down manually instead of using the fancy Festool?

Maybe get a length of emery cloth. Wrap it around the pole and hold one end in each hand and go back and forth. 

Finger sander?
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-electric-mini-belt-sander.html

Sanding ball?
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-80-grit-abrasive-ball-61182.html

Copper scouring pad?


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Could I again ask what the purpose of a privacy screen/security screen is when this does not extend to the outside railing?


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I hope you've got drop sheets down there. Just kidding. Or actually, how does that work? I honestly don't think I could do a job like that. Your setup looks pretty safe, but I'd still be scared one of the zap straps would fail or something.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Brushman4 said:


> Could I again ask what the purpose of a privacy screen/security screen is when this does not extend to the outside railing?


It must be the Swinger model.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Wildbill7145 said:


> I hope you've got drop sheets down there. Just kidding. Or actually, how does that work? I honestly don't think I could do a job like that. Your setup looks pretty safe, but I'd still be scared one of the zap straps would fail or something.


I would find it awkward working with a parachute on.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Answer to question*



Brushman4 said:


> Could I again ask what the purpose of a privacy screen/security screen is when this does not extend to the outside railing?


You can certainly ask, but I cannot give you an answer. That is just the way I found it.

futtyos


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

futtyos said:


> You can certainly ask, but I cannot give you an answer. That is just the way I found it.
> 
> futtyos


I looked it up on the web. The privacy screen design is called the The Hefner Privacy Screen. It allows one neighbor to easily access the other while holding two glasses in one hand and of a bottle Champagne in the other.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

I like the post further up. Grab a roll or two of the 3m flexible sand paper with the thin rubber/plastic backing or some of the abrasive cloth from the plumbing supply if the spindles are round. 

Workit like you'd clean a copper pipe for sweating.

If not I'm sure a Dremel, die grinder or grinder with a large enough flap disc or paint stripping disc or wire wheel (not the cup but the kind you'd find on a bench grinder). 

The Dremel/die grinder with an abrasive drum might work. Any flat or disc like tool needs finesse then clean up by hand which may be more work. 

Or strip it with chemical stripper. Seems like a hassle for that job.


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Angle grinder with wire wheel. Wear long sleeves, heavy gloves and safety glasses.

It will be plenty fast.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

CApainter said:


> I looked it up on the web. The privacy screen design is called the The Hefner Privacy Screen. It allows one neighbor to easily access the other while holding two glasses in one hand and of a bottle Champagne in the other.


You most likely are on to something, seeing as Hef lived about 10 blocks away in the Original Playboy Mansion! https://www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/ch...inal-playboy-mansion/a/poi-sig/1176822/361932

I finally figured it out, fuutyos is doing work for a GC that has a lot of work in the famed Marina Towers.
When I worked for Bobbe & Co. back in the early 80's, I worked on repainting, Kup's (Irv Kupcinets and his wife's condo in the towers! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irv_Kupcinet At this same time, Bobbe had two stage crews repainting all the railings on both towers which lasted from spring until the end of the year. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marina_City


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

@futtyos You might want to check this out. It looks like a beast when it comes to stripping metal: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html

The building engineers are mainly concerned with controlling rust and maintaining the structural integrity of the steel. Due to the volume of steel they maintain, esthetics aren't a huge concern to them.

Recently I hired a commercial painter to paint some steel stringers in multiple stair wells that totaled about 30 floors. When we assessed the project we found a lot of surface rust and his advice to hold back the rust was to bury it in primer, rather than trying to remove all the rust. The more millage the better. 


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

PNW Painter said:


> @*futtyos* You might want to check this out. It looks like a beast when it comes to stripping metal: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
> 
> The building engineers are mainly concerned with controlling rust and maintaining the structural integrity of the steel. Due to the volume of steel they maintain, esthetics aren't a huge concern to them.
> 
> ...


When futtyos is referring to the "Building Engineers" I believe he is referring to the maintenance people and not the actual architectural team. This is basically an aesthetic concern for the building management (HOA) and or condo owner.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Nice gadget!*



PNW Painter said:


> @futtyos You might want to check this out. It looks like a beast when it comes to stripping metal: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
> 
> The building engineers are mainly concerned with controlling rust and maintaining the structural integrity of the steel. Due to the volume of steel they maintain, esthetics aren't a huge concern to them.
> 
> ...


I had forgotten about this tool. I was thinking of getting one of these to clean and polish interior aluminum window frames at Marina Towers.

futtyos


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

CApainter said:


> When futtyos is referring to the "Building Engineers" I believe he is referring to the maintenance people and not the actual architectural team. This is basically an aesthetic concern for the building management (HOA) and or condo owner.




I'm also referring to the maintenance workers as well.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

CApainter said:


> When futtyos is referring to the "Building Engineers" I believe he is referring to the maintenance people and not the actual architectural team. This is basically an aesthetic concern for the building management (HOA) and or condo owner.


They are called "Stationary Engineers" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stationary_engineer
Their job is to maintain and oversee all mechanical, heating, cooling, and life safety systems in large building and industrial plants. In Chicago and the State of Illinois, they are licensed and must pass a test. They wield a lot of power and want to know who is working and what they are doing in their respective buildings.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Brushman4 said:


> They are called "Stationary Engineers" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stationary_engineer
> Their job is to maintain and oversee all mechanical, heating, cooling, and life safety systems in large building and industrial plants. In Chicago and the State of Illinois, they are licensed and must pass a test. They wield a lot of power and want to know who is working and what they are doing in their respective buildings.


Their titles also include:

Building Operators

Facility Technicians

Building Maintenance worker

and even Boiler Makers.

Typically, they specialize in HVAC, including central plants. And that's because HVAC is one of the largest service requests for a facility manager. But they are also responsible for everything you mentioned. Including security systems, doors and locks, lighting, minor plumbing, and even painting in some cases.

Generally though, these building operation departments want little to do with painting. That's why it's generally contracted out.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

CApainter said:


> Their titles also include:
> 
> Building Operators
> 
> ...


Here they are called stationary engineers and as you say rarely want to mess with the actual application of paint. But as part of their duties want to know where you are working, what materials you are using etc.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

I would use 100 grit sand paper and go to town. Do it all by hand. Spot prime all the rust spots with a rust primer, or tank primer too

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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

journeymanPainter said:


> I would use 100 grit sand paper and go to town. Do it all by hand. Spot prime all the rust spots with a rust primer, or tank primer too
> 
> Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk


Is Tank Primer a brand in Canada?


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

CApainter said:


> Is Tank Primer a brand in Canada?


No, it's just an industrial primer for rust. Super heavy duty and thick. Wonderful stuff, horrible smell.

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont rememberr what product it was, but a few years back, we repainted close to a mile of 7' tall, black iron fence around a huge apartment complex, and we spot primed the bad stuff with some kind of grey epoxy primer. I believe it was a PPG product.


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