# Latex paint over oil



## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

Hello troops,

I know we all have different approach on how we handle "latex paint over oil" mess.I have a customer that has latex peeling of what I suspect satin impervo.Somebody painted cheap latex paint over ir.

What is your go method dealing this problem?Oil again?or oil primer and latex finish?It will be fun to hear different stuff haha

Sharp


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

quick dry oil primer, feather mud if needed, then acrylic. Done.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

I'd say sand the failing latex off first then adhesion prime and finish.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

If. Your using a cheap paint you definitely have to prime. I personally give it a good sand and use cloverdale paint's renaissance. Which is s hybrid paint in replace of the oil. It is meant to stick over oil finishes with little sanding. And it gives off the nice oil finish which is great for older character homes


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

Problem is that if you try to sand its just keep on peeling if it was painted glass


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Sharp_Painting said:


> Problem is that if you try to sand its just keep on peeling if it was painted glass


Yes but your topcoat is only as good as what's under it. You can adhere to the failing latex but if its not adhering to the pervious oil then your paint fails with it.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Andyman said:


> Yes but your topcoat is only as good as what's under it. You can adhere to the failing latex but if its not adhering to the pervious oil then your paint fails with it.


 
Right, the failing latex needs to go before anything else happens. Pretty fundamental stuff.:whistling2:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

The failing latex should be removed other wise new coat will fail, scrape, sand do what ever you can to remove the old latex.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I use a degreaser called straight nine. concentrated krudd cutter and steel wool works too. 

NOTHING you do except the latex removal will work. in fact tne more sucessive lavers you put over it, the easier it will be to pull the paint off in sheets.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Back to basics.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

To do it the right way.I am glad there is still a homeowner that cares about their house,and not treating like "its just paint"

We are planning on sanding the old oil coat and apply two coats of advance by BM,any of you guys used advance on previously oil painted wood?Any comments on that?


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

Sorry guys for the last post,I just realized that the retarded Paint talk app on Ipad deleted half of the post.  This sh.. drives me nuts.

I meant ,that we had conversation with the homeowner and he decided to go the ''right way'' and remove previous Fail latex paint.

We are thinking of using the BM Advance for the finish.How many of you folks have used advance over oil finish?Any recommendations?Should we risk or should we go with primer first?


Sharp

App admins should consider fixing a lot of ridiculous bugs on the app.
As far as I know I am not the first one struggling with it.:whistling2:


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## jonathanthepainter (Jul 5, 2011)

Mechanical sand then prime. Bonding or adhesion primer, prior to paint.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Sharp_Painting said:


> Sorry guys for the last post,I just realized that the retarded Paint talk app on Ipad deleted half of the post.  This sh.. drives me nuts.
> 
> I meant ,that we had conversation with the homeowner and he decided to go the ''right way'' and remove previous Fail latex paint.
> 
> ...


I hear ya on the bugs!
Regarding Advance over oil, I had a friend who had a lot of trouble using it over old hardened oil. When they taped onto the trim to do the walls it pulled the trim paint off when they pulled tape. However it mostly did it in the heights where hands would have gotten the previous trim dirty, mid level, and my rep thinks that its because they didn't clean it well enough. The TDS now says to prime before using over oil or catalyzed lacquer. Rep thinks you can sand and degloss and then paint, unless maybe its a shelf or wear area. That's a little sketchy though to have two different stories. That's why I'm a little less in love with advance than I used to be, because often times it will be going over an existing oil surface. 
When I recently reshot some cabs that were cat-lacquer I used the Stix primer first. I don't like having the extra step, but I don't like trouble either! Have a job right now where it's over old oil and I have to decide between that and using cabinet coat and no primer. I may end up spraying the old surfaces in the living room with cabinet coat, and then later when they install the new trim in the kitchen and other areas, brush them with advance. Kind of weird approach, but the GC is doing the job in phases, so we won't even have base and some crown until later. Stupid IMO.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I went over old oil trim with Advance with no sanding. Homeowner didn't want to pay for that much prep - so I washed all the trim with TSP, I hope that was enough.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

plainpainter said:


> I went over old oil trim with Advance with no sanding. Homeowner didn't want to pay for that much prep - so I washed all the trim with TSP, I hope that was enough.


Tsp does degloss and softens the old coating.

Besides, I think there is a benefit from minimizing new coatings on old finishes. The more coatings, the more surface tension and eventual collapse of all layers of finish.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

Update Bad news:


We stripped the doors from old latex paint,we washed the doors with TSP and we sanded next day.

I did go ahead and risked BM advance.Big mistake!!!good thing that we only test it on 5 doors,bad thing that we are on very tight schedule.

I am going to strip advance,and go with oil.since there is no time for primer now.


Just giving you guys heads up,advance over oil NO CIGAR! 



Sharp


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> I went over old oil trim with Advance with no sanding. Homeowner didn't want to pay for that much prep - so I washed all the trim with TSP, I hope that was enough.


It can't take that much more time to scuff with 180 or 220. I like to wipe with Krud Kutter gloss off after sanding as added adhesion.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

What happened when you applied the Advance that made you bail on it? I can't imagine it instantly failed or anything too crazy....


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Sharp_Painting said:


> Update Bad news:
> 
> We stripped the doors from old latex paint,we washed the doors with TSP and we sanded next day.
> 
> ...


Even some bonding primers can be scratched off the next day. You have to give them time to bond. I'm not saying the advance will bond more over time, just pointing that out.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

kdpaint said:


> What happened when you applied the Advance that made you bail on it? I can't imagine it instantly failed or anything too crazy....


We had little circles when brushing,and after 24 hours of drying it looks like a regular latex over oil like we had in the first place.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Even some bonding primers can be scratched off the next day. You have to give them time to bond. I'm not saying the advance will bond more over time, just pointing that out.


I have no time to wait  and I see that is wrong.Lots of years experience tells me thats is not going to cure/bond.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

chrisn said:


> Right, the failing latex needs to go before anything else happens. Pretty fundamental stuff.:whistling2:


With painting, it's only fundamental if someone is willing to compensate for the time.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Compensation is key, and from my dealings with Advance, and the way I structure my jobs, I do not use Advance very much. I just do not have time to wait for it to cure, or adhere. It does neither within a reasonable amount of time. It can look good though. And so can a number of other paints.


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

kdpaint said:


> Compensation is key, and from my dealings with Advance, and the way I structure my jobs, I do not use Advance very much. I just do not have time to wait for it to cure, or adhere. It does neither within a reasonable amount of time. It can look good though. And so can a number of other paints.


I like advance,looks great!but not over oil.


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