# primer



## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

painted a set of kitchen cabinets for a customer probably 4-5 years ago, I was test driving SW solo (semi-gloss I believe). Primed the builder grade (pine?) with water based multi purpose primer sanded and three top coats of the solo with a brush and foam roller. The color was scorched earth, think shiny black/dark brown.

Flash forward to today and customer had a floor upgrade and wants to lighten up the cabinets and make them white. SW gave me a gallon of the multi purpose acrylic alkyd (pink can) to try out. Said it will hide better. Im not buying it. What is a go to primer. I rarely use anything oil, but think this a situation for it.

Top coat will be pro-classic or solo white semi gloss. Side bar, very impressed with the solo, this was the first time I used it, only other time is window and sills because it says interior/exterior.

Thanks for any information


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

Also, I will be brushing and rolling the paint on. after all this time the cabinets still look good. Stipple and brush marks are minimal so why change a thing


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

If you are adding the same kind of top coat as before. Will you even need primer? Maybe a good degrease cleaning and a scuff sand to dull the old sheen then put a coat or two of finish. 

Just a thought.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

I did not like the adhesion of the oil/acrylic multipurpose primer.

Wow, good going on the longevity of the solo. I did all my kitchen cabinets and desk that I am typing on. The solo does not hold well to hand oils. It softens so quick, I even put knobs on all the doors to no avail.


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

Danahy said:


> If you are adding the same kind of top coat as before. Will you even need primer? Maybe a good degrease cleaning and a scuff sand to dull the old sheen then put a coat or two of finish.
> 
> Just a thought.


I was thinking of priming to save money/time. Black could take multiple coats of expensive long drying paint or a few cheap drying coats. 


MikeCalifornia said:


> I did not like the adhesion of the oil/acrylic multipurpose primer.
> 
> Wow, good going on the longevity of the solo. I did all my kitchen cabinets and desk that I am typing on. The solo does not hold well to hand oils. It softens so quick, I even put knobs on all the doors to no avail.


Kitchen doesn't look like it gets used a lot. Some sanding on the sheen will be done but as far as degreasing, no reason from what I can see. But will probably still do to be safe. Don't know why my solo lasted so long, maybe the dark color. May reconsider my cabinet paint now. I don't really do many of these


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

dan_s said:


> I was thinking of priming to save money/time. Black could take multiple coats of expensive long drying paint or a few cheap drying coats.


How much solo will you be using on a set of cabinets you are roll/brushing?


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## GSP82 (Feb 20, 2014)

Just clean them and sand them.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

no real point in priming.


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

I guess I am over thinking the black to white. Might take three coats but that would happen if i primed it. Thanks for the input


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## admirableptg (Oct 23, 2008)

Solo is 100% acrylic interior/exterior coating that is self priming over previously painted surfaces. No need to prime if you use like coatings. Still feel this is not what we would put on cabinets. If it can be used outside it has to have some flex to the product and I would like cabinets to be supper durable.


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

What should I use. I'm doing it Monday. So I have some time to plan. From reading your posts, seems like I got lucky/HO is good on cabinets. Keep in mind I have Sw around and the box stores, and I will roll and brush on. I am open to a new trim paint. Pro classic can be a pain to work with, but I like the finish product


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

There's some great threads using the search function.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

dan_s said:


> I guess I am over thinking the black to white. Might take three coats but that would happen if i primed it. Thanks for the input


Your thinking in black and white.:whistling2:


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

I have read through some of the search history, seems like people are using products that I don't get or wouldn't be practical for me to depend on. That's why I use sherwin, for the many locations. I understand and agree with most of the complaints people have with them, but I continue to use them. I know what to expect when painting walls and siding, cabinets just aren't something i do a ton of. But like most of you who do repaints mostly. Keeping the customer satisfied keeps the business coming.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I am not a Sherwin guy, but I like Proclassic, both the acrylic and the hybrid. I've heard good things about the PM200 hybrid as well. Not sure about it for cabs, but the other 2 are ok choices. I would not use solo for cabs. Too soft.


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## PaintEmUp (Sep 24, 2014)

oil primer may take longer to dry.

The latex multi purpose should have been fine.


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Just buy enough time and paint to three coat everything with pro classic. The way the hybrids sit on sharp edges is thinner than classic alkyd. You won't get the thickness you need on the flats to go light over dark using a foamy, either. Mohair is great for finish coat. Sand and tack in between coats.


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