# In-Laws Shop Epoxy Paint



## Masterpainter (Aug 14, 2010)

Hey guys, I am mainly a residential painter without a lot of commercial experience. However I also install tile with my company and have a good understanding of floors and what is necessary to prep. The only thing I do not know is some of the specifics when it comes to doing an epoxy floor. 

My In-Laws have an auto repair shop and they asked me if I would be interested in re-doing the floors in their office/waiting area. I would need to rent a machine for scraping up the VCT tile. Which is no problem. However I was going to get your guys recommendation on how to prep afterwards. Assuming that their is only vct and glue on top of the concrete slab, how would you guys proceed afterwards for prepping for an epoxy. Also with that being said, what kind of epoxy would you go with. I am under the impression that 100% solids would be the only way to go considering they want to be able to park motorcycles on them with kickstands and heavy foot traffic. I will not be painting the floors of the bays, so no vehicles will be on this. 

I know if I were installing tile I would be scarifying the concrete to etch something for my thinset to bond to and then installing a crack isolation membrane to avoid cracks and then tile. Possibly having to do self levelers if the concrete were too bad. However they do not want tile, they would like a paint. So how would you guys proceed?

If you guys recommend machines, please list what kind so I can research where I can rent them.


----------



## dvp (Jun 21, 2010)

you could start by contacting your sales rep. their tech support should be able to recommend a system, and give guidelines for surface prep specs. i have had good luck with rustolium 2 part epoxy, but it has to be their industrial product, not the home owner line. others on here probably know more about this than i do.


----------



## Masterpainter (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks, I guess my sherwin williams reps here are inadequate, i have contacted them and pretty much useless. And the benjamin moore here in town does not deal in floor coatings any more. I suppose I should contact sherwin williams 800 number directly instead of dealing with my local fellas that make 8$ an hour and could give a crap whether I stay in business or not.


----------



## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Masterpainter said:


> Thanks, I guess my sherwin williams reps here are inadequate, i have contacted them and pretty much useless. And the benjamin moore here in town does not deal in floor coatings any more. I suppose I should contact sherwin williams 800 number directly instead of dealing with my local fellas that make 8$ an hour and could give a crap whether I stay in business or not.


Your BM dealer ( even though they dont have the industrial line ) Can still get 100% Solids Epoxy. They will just have to get you a stock color, they wont be able to tint custom colors.

Pull the tiles and get ALL of the glue off. :yes: Your choice of coating goes from there. I kind of like the look of Acid Stain, with a clear epoxy over it. Since you know the people, this may be a good time to practice, and add another service to your portfolio.

With the 100% solids, a sealer probably wont be necessary, unless they have issues with moisture. No moisture problems, just put down 2 coats and you're done. You will have to move fast, most 100% solids epoxies have around a 15 minute pot life. If it were me, i'd order it in gallon kits instead of 3 gallon, since its your first time. 

This product, you mix, then pour directly on the floor. Move it around with either a squeegee or short nap roller. It will self level. You shouldnt have to touch a brush with this type of product. :thumbsup:


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

In additon, reduce the first coat of 100% solids 10 percent with Xylene to minimize bubbles formed by the heating of trapped air in the concrete and or have a pin roller set up if bubbles start to form. As long as you get the mixed epoxy out of the can entirely, you will have 30-45 minutes to get the material spread before it becomes un-workable, depending on porosity of the surface, surface and air temp, and surface profile. Spiked shoes are a must so you can walk in the wet film. If the surface profile is smooth but porous from grinding, a smooth squeegee will be fine. This will spread the material at 8 mils wet. A notched squeegee may be needed to smooth an aggressive profile and will reduce the spreadrate. Measure the area to estimate a 500 sq ft area which a 3 gallon kit will do at 8 mils WFT. If your area exceeds 500 sq ft, you will know how many gallon or 3 gallon kits to order. Read the Tech Date Sheet on P40 on the Benjamin Moore web site. Surface temp must be at least 50 degrees including the outside wall space near the outside walls. Degrease first, grind, degrease, one coat, wait 4-8 hours, and recoat at full strength. If you wear spikes, be careful, floor is very slippery. I always bring an extra set of clothes just in case I go down.


----------



## supplyman (Dec 16, 2010)

what kind of roller covers are working best with the epoxys?


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Depends on the epoxy and the application method. 100% Solids is squeegee'd and backrolled. I like 18" 3/8" High Capacity. Also depends on the mil thickness required and the surface profile. I usually keep a 9" frame around if the cut in is only a few inches from the wall. Usually have a duplicate of all tools for back up if I have a breakdown while spreading epoxy with short pot life. Sometimes roller frames stop rolling correctly, a Jiffy Mixer burns out, or something goes wrong. Epoxies with longer pot lifes have more flexibility to correct issues that arise. I also have an extra set of clothes in case I go down when the spikes get slippery. Only happened once, but that was a long ride home.


----------



## supplyman (Dec 16, 2010)

On the 18" cover would you use a shed free or micro-fiber?


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

I've tried the micro fibers and they don't put down the proper mil thickness for polyamides and amines. I like them for clear coat of urethanes.


----------



## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

supplyman said:


> On the 18" cover would you use a shed free or micro-fiber?


Usually 100% solids are squeegeed. You can use a cover, the shorter and tighter the nap, the better. Really you're only moving the product around, not trying to leave a stipple.

If its your first time, depending on how much product you need, order some gallon kits. ( usually come in 1 gallon or 3 gallon kits ) Its a bit more expensive by the gallon, but you get a better feel for the working time. Nothing worse than mixing up a 3 gallon batch and getting through half of it before it starts setting up. :thumbsup:


----------



## SCpaintguy (Jan 5, 2011)

Make sure as much of the glue from VCT is up as possible. Acid etching or bead blasting usually is best if the floor still has laitence and is slick. Once profiled, usually a good polyamide or 100% epoxy system is more than adequate. With cycles and kickstands, a polyamide or even urethane will be more than protective. Not a lot of weight relatively speaking. If the floor has a lot of sun on it, use a urethane epoxy, they are recommended for UV exposure. Polyams will chalk and fade quickly, it looks bad but is still protective.


----------

