# Lime green ceiling



## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

Just looked at a bedroom in a cape cod house. A few questions:

1. The ceiling is a lime green (it's a Childs bedroom) and the owner wants it back to ceiling white. Think one coat primer and two coats ceiling will cover ? 

2. They want grey wall paint over a dark blue wall. I'm not planning on a primer for that given it's a gray over a dark. This sound on base?

3. Lastly , where the wall hits the ceiling it's not a 90 deg. angle. It's about 45 deg. Would you guys tape this To cut in or free hand it?

I have my own ideas on how to tackle this stuff but i just wanted to see how other people would approach it. Thanks in advance.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

1. Should be plenty-just don't use cheapo ceiling paint
2. Shouldn't be a problem-It never really hurts to prime it, but sometimes we just add a step for ourselves that's not necessary. With all the new 100% acrylic products I find we are priming less.
3. Depends on what kind of line the taper left you. If it's sharp you should be able to follow it and freehand. Many times those 45's are wavy gravy and in that case I would strike a nice tape line to give it at least the illusion of being straight.
Best of luck


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

I don't want to sound like an ass, but these are pretty elementary questions in terms of house painting. Sounds like questions a home owner would be asking, not what a painting contractor would be.

1. yes
2. clean surface, scuff sand, paint 2 coats
3. show us pics, im sure either free hand or tape is usable, however do you know how to use tape properly? if not search this forum


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

E&J Painting said:


> Just looked at a bedroom in a cape cod house. A few questions:
> 
> 1. The ceiling is a lime green (it's a Childs bedroom) and the owner wants it back to ceiling white. Think one coat primer and two coats ceiling will cover ?
> 
> ...


:thumbsup:


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## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

Thanks for the feedback. You don't sound like an ass and, yes, I realize these are very basic questions. However, I always get anxious when giving estimates because I've had some very simple looking jobs turn into nightmares through no fault of my own. And, secondly, the longer I do this the less I take for granted. I find that some of the stuff I feel 100% sure about is being done 10 different ways by 10 different people. For example, I posted a question on here recently about a problem I had painting a ceiling. It was my error that caused the trouble but it ended up getting about 30 or so posts ... dealing with how to paint/spray a white ceiling.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

E&J Painting said:


> Thanks for the feedback. You don't sound like an ass and, yes, I realize these are very basic questions. However, I always get anxious when giving estimates because I've had some very simple looking jobs turn into nightmares through no fault of my own. And, secondly, the longer I do this the less I take for granted. I find that some of the stuff I feel 100% sure about is being done 10 different ways by 10 different people. For example, I posted a question on here recently about a problem I had painting a ceiling. It was my error that caused the trouble but it ended up getting about 30 or so posts ... dealing with how to paint/spray a white ceiling.


Honesty is a good thing, and shame on anyone who flames you for it. Painting is not easy( debatable I know ), and there are a 101 ways to accomplish any given job.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Personally, I it isn't dirty or have oil or patches etc...I wouldn't bother priming. 

Since NC is here I'd recommend BM Waterborne Ultra Flat. (I'd say that anyway )

Do two coats....it if looks good, your done, if not - three will do it. Save yourself opening another can and changing out roller and a brush.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Two coats of Ben Moore Super Spec flat white, and collect your check.


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## ltd (Nov 18, 2010)

if your priming for color change only i think you can skip this step 2 coats quality paint should do it .imho quality paints covers better than primer anyways


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Since NC is here I'd recommend BM Waterborne Ultra Flat. (I'd say that anyway )


On that note, Advance will soon be available in a Flat finish :blink: I do have some guys that like the 306 Calcimine Recoater for ceilings. I wonder if the Advance Flat would be a good substitute?


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

NC- ( NOT TO HIJACK..BUT) 
I just heard they are reformulating Advance for quicker dry/recoat- No sh//t!
And what does a flat Advance give you? Does it hold out like oil? better than say 123 or a coat of gardz that can be recoated almost as fast as you can get back to it? If I want flat for flat's sake, prolly use a latex...


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

No telling what the flat advance will bring. Maybe a washable true flat over matte?


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> On that note, Advance will soon be available in a Flat finish :blink: I do have some guys that like the 306 Calcimine Recoater for ceilings. I wonder if the Advance Flat would be a good substitute?



Does that change anything other than a sheen? (am I missing something?)


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Does that change anything other than a sheen? (am I missing something?)


Still the same technology. Alkyd, but soap and water cleanup...same as the Advance Satin and Gloss, only in a Flat finish.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> No telling what the flat advance will bring. Maybe a washable true flat over matte?


Something to replace the flat oil 306 Calcimine Recaoter I suspect.

Totally hijacked, sorry E&J...but your OP was answered


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

hmm. lime green .... its border line one coat with BEHR ULTRA. At least the 2nd would be an easy coat. So is black by the way.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Since NC is here I'd recommend BM Waterborne Ultra Flat. (I'd say that anyway .


You make me sound like a BM slappy or something.  I carry PPG, Sikkens, Gemini, Old Masters, Graham, and some Martin Senour. Lots of companies make a decent product.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> You make me sound like a BM slappy or something.  I carry PPG, Sikkens, Gemini, Old Masters, Graham, and some Martin Senour. Lots of companies make a decent product.


Naw....just put my elbow in your ribs...all good.

Now Jack and Behr is another story. :whistling2::jester: BTW Jack, dug through my wife's sewing box for buttons last night....thanks!


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> On that note, Advance will soon be available in a Flat finish :blink: I do have some guys that like the 306 Calcimine Recoater for ceilings. I wonder if the Advance Flat would be a good substitute?


 Is that true NC that the Advance will be available in flat? In todays day and age I am not sure what niche that will fill? We put on a lot of Sani-Flat back in the day. Pretty much a fool proof product if you could stand the smell and the 2 days to dry!!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Its true Cliff...coming soon in Flat finish. Niche for sure. All the benefits of an oil, but soap and water cleanup, and low VOC too.

Ya know, sometimes people just want oil, no talking them out of it...they want what they want.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Naw....just put my elbow in your ribs...all good.
> 
> Now Jack and Behr is another story. :whistling2::jester: BTW Jack, dug through my wife's sewing box for buttons last night....thanks!


haha are you serious? I know its a silly thing but it works too good to not take advantage of it. Between a button and a properly beveled cover, painting this lime green makes a huge difference with getting the cut and roll to work out right. RE: BEHR tho.. really... what paint wont cover that green in two. Some just do it better in one. I like my prime coats to be as solid as possible.

Once I find the right button again I will order a huge box of them. You have no idea how much time I spend looking for the right buttons. Ive been through all kinds but really only found one that works flawlessly. Seen here.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Dunbar Painting said:


> I don't want to sound like an ass, but these are pretty elementary questions in terms of house painting. Sounds like questions a home owner would be asking, not what a painting contractor would be.


Yes they are entry level question but one has to keep in mind that we have all different levels on this forum and we were all at this stage at some point.  


E&J Painting said:


> Just looked at a bedroom in a cape cod house. A few questions:
> 
> 1. The ceiling is a lime green (it's a Childs bedroom) and the owner wants it back to ceiling white. Think one coat primer and two coats ceiling will cover ?
> 
> ...


1. I would think you could do without the primer but if you sold them on the primer give it to them

2. Yes a scuff sand and a check for repairs if that is in the scope of work. 

3. I would probably free hand it but depends on what you are comfortable doing and the condition of the line its self.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> haha are you serious? I know its a silly thing but it works too good to not take advantage of it. Between a button and a properly beveled cover, painting this lime green makes a huge difference with getting the cut and roll to work out right. RE: BEHR tho.. really... what paint wont cover that green in two. Some just do it better in one. I like my prime coats to be as solid as possible.
> 
> Once I find the right button again I will order a huge box of them. You have no idea how much time I spend looking for the right buttons. Ive been through all kinds but really only found one that works flawlessly. Seen here.


Ya, I'm serious....I'll try it on one cage. Let you know. 

As for the ceiling paint in this case, I agree. I'd be surprised to a see a paint do it in one though.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> Its true Cliff...coming soon in Flat finish. Niche for sure. All the benefits of an oil, but soap and water cleanup, and low VOC too.
> 
> Ya know, sometimes people just want oil, no talking them out of it...they want what they want.


 That's actually pretty cool. Never thought I'd be using flat oil again! The flat oil years ago could hide a multitude of sin without worrying about stain blocking primers. The Sani-Flat was almost like a paste. You could turn the can over to pour it out and it would just stay there! We would paint old acoustic tile ceilings that were badly yellowed- 1 coat,dead flat white-perfect every time. Even residential homes where the people were smokers with that amber stained ceiling and walls. Many times it would even hide water stains. In the right time and place it was fool proof. We'd always add 1 bk to the white and it was a home run. Thanks for the info NC :thumbsup: Are you old enough to remember Pentaflex? I guess this thread really has been hijacked! Sorry all.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

CliffK said:


> Thanks for the info NC :thumbsup: Are you old enough to remember Pentaflex? I guess this thread really has been hijacked! Sorry all.


Im 30 now, started when I was 16. I think Pentaflex got the Axe just before i came on the scene, but i have heard of it, and remember guys asking for it. :thumbsup:


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

NCPaint1 said:


> :thumbsup:


 

i like your pencil idea.......... learn something new every day :thumbsup:


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