# what can i use to prime plaster?



## flashme18 (May 15, 2008)

I'm on a wallpaper removal job and repaint. One of the rooms I removed paper from has unprimed plaster walls. I used reddi patch(sp?) to fill the small cracks and holes and any imperfections. I have a few days before I need to tackle that room so I could use some suggestions.

Also, is it any harder to spot prime plaster compared to sheetrock? Most of the walls in the house are plaster, and I have next to no experience working with plaster walls. All other plaster walls are painted previously.


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

This is the stuff. Dunno what the product equivalent is for you though.

Ignore the product description on that page, it is for plaster. They screwed up.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

If you cannot get that , http://www.zinsser.co.nz/wtb-GARDZ.asp?SID=11&WID=27 will do the trick, 2 coats


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## flashme18 (May 15, 2008)

is Gardz sold at most paint stores? thanks


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Why is guardz brought up so much on this website? Isn't it a problem surface sealer? If you have decent plaster walls in good condition - almost any oil based interior oil primer/sealer will do great!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> Why is guardz brought up so much on this website? Isn't it a problem surface sealer? If you have decent plaster walls in good condition - almost any oil based interior oil primer/sealer will do great!


Yes, the product from which Gardz was copied, Draw-Tite, was discovered to be a great problem solver, in that it reduced the "feathering" effect when torn drywall was patched or sanded.

Then some paper hangers realized it made a great primer sealer. 

And thus, Draw-Tite and it's imitator, Gardz, has become to be used very successfully as a waterborne sealer. 

But to answer flash's question, most any top quality acrylic primer sealer will be suitable. Zinsser 1-2-3, Ben Moore waterborne Fresh Coat, and many other products that are formulated to prime and seal.

BTW, you *did* wash all the residue paste from the wall, didn't you ??


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## flashme18 (May 15, 2008)

BTW, you *did* wash all the residue paste from the wall, didn't you ??

:thumbup: I spent 6 hours getting the paste off. Then I strolled into the kitchen expecting to breeze through the rest of that prep and found invisible glue/paste! 

The paste on the plaster was yellow so i could see it easily. The kitchen is gonna be a nightmare when i get around to it. The customers are moving in tomorrow so I have been focusing on their bedrooms and some other rooms. 

You mentioned a primer..did u mean Fresh Start by Benjamin Moore for the unprimed plaster walls. I used it for the first time today and i liked its coverage for my spot priming over painted plaster in the master bedroom. 


In another bedroom it had 2 layers of wallpaper and some of the paint and paper backing came off the sheetrock. Im guessing I have to prime all the walls before doing my mudding with joint compound? 

I hate wallpaper! But you can make good money removing it.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

flashme18 said:


> I hate wallpaper! But you can make good money removing it.


Only if the client pays you to do it correctly...


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

flashme18 said:


> The paste on the plaster was yellow so i could see it easily.


Sounds like clay. It needs to absorb lots of soluition to loosen. I hate washing clay. I'm trying to re-tool many hangers who use it as a normal course of action when it is not necessarily needed. 



> You mentioned a primer..did u mean Fresh Start by Benjamin Moore for the unprimed plaster walls.


Yes. My tongue got in front of my eye tooth and I could not see what I was saying.



> In another bedroom it had 2 layers of wallpaper and some of the paint and paper backing came off the sheetrock. Im guessing I have to prime all the walls before doing my mudding with joint compound?


this is EXACTLY what Draw-Tite and Gardz are for



> I hate wallpaper! But you can make good money removing it.


I LOVE wallpaper. It makes a house a home. It gives life to monochromatic walls. It makes a personalized fashion statement. It's luxurious. It's elegant. It lasts longer than paint. And when installed correctly, it's easy to remove. I make a living by installing it correctly


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

flashme18 said:


> Im guessing I have to prime all the walls before doing my mudding with joint compound?


I would think this would be a no-no. But no one else has caught it yet so maybe I am wrong? I am under the impression that JC is meant to go on a non sealed substrate for proper adhesion.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

if you have sheetrock paper off? I would oil prime the remaining sheetrock brown paper (if thats what is exposed) and then skim coat and then oil prime again prior to top coat.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> I would think this would be a no-no. But no one else has caught it yet so maybe I am wrong? I am under the impression that JC is meant to go on a non sealed substrate for proper adhesion.


Tsunami,

As I said to Flash, try some Draw-Tite or Gardz next time. You know how the little carboard "feathers" come through the mud? And how the cardboard just shreds and "feathers" more when sanded? D-T and Gardz prevents this. AND you don't get the fuzzies like you do with oil.

Mud will adhere to Gardz and D-T just fine.


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## Kate Johnson (Sep 8, 2008)

*Primering The Walls*

First of all you need to clean the wall. Fill the cracks with waterproof crackfillers,sealants. Then apply a coat of acrylic cement primers. Two coats are usually recommended. After allowing them to dry for a perod of a day, apply acrylic emulsion paints. The walls will just look brilliant.

--------------------------------
Kate Johnson

http://www.drivenwide.com


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