# peelstop or oil primer



## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I am almost finished with prepwork on a historic church for a Non For Profit Org. It had a full chem strip restoration in '96 or '97. They primed it but I think the property owners and volunteers painted it. It is quite the mess. Half the freaking siding is wood filler and caulk it seems. A lot of the siding is too wet and soft to scrape. I replaced some but because its a registered historic building I had to use "heritage" (used and old) replacement siding. We scraped and sanded as much as we could and washed it really well. 
Now I am trying to decide should I go with the usual (coverstain) or through some zinsser peel stop or xim peelbond? I want the oil to soak in to the exposed wood but the peelstop to hold down the lose edges. 
Anyone have any suggestions or experiences?
TIA


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## Primer Guy (Apr 20, 2007)

You have a couple of issues here. How wet is the wood? Why is the wood wet? Oilbase primer will prevent water vapor from escaping the structure with a greater potential for blistering, probably not a good idea. Nothing glues down loose edges- you have to feather the edge. Peel Bond or Peel Stop will keep those feathered edges from rising up. How many surface textures do you have on the wall? You can build the surface with Peel Bond to give a consistent surface and a better looking job.

Contact me offline with your number to discuss. We see these types of jobs all the time. They can be successful with a little planning and knowledge.


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## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

> Oilbase primer will prevent water vapor from escaping the structure with a greater potential for blistering, probably not a good idea


.

This something that confuses me about exterior painting. Seems a lot of painters prime with an oil based primer then overcoat with an acrylic. I do wonder how good can the top coat adhere when the primer cannot breath and might be pushed off by water vapor. Seems like cutting your nose off to spite your face.


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## CharlieWis (Apr 7, 2008)

Hey Tsunami, I'm just wandering where are you located? Are you in Madison Wisconsin by any chance?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

boman47k said:


> .
> 
> I do wonder how good can the top coat adhere when the primer cannot breath and might be pushed off by water vapor....


This is an issue on a "wet" house
That's something I see out here a lot
But really, that's because of where I am
(big seasonal/beach New England thing)
Mostly it's a former cottage or seasonal house that have been "winterized" by some overenthusiastic DIYers or poorly trained "remodelers"
They seal up each and every last vent and crevice in the attic
No sofit or gable vents...no nothing...so this house basically exudes moisture, pealing any oil products right off

Usually not an issue with a properly vented (original kept or retro-fitted) house


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

yah charlie, I am. I have seen your cards in my SW
Lot of wet houses in this area 
We are just starting our first week of dry weather. Its exciting. Ordered my moisture meter today too.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I go with the usual (coverstain) 

I do not think coverstain would be a proper primer for any exterior job. Is it not a fast drying primer and would'nt you want a slow drying oil for exterior? I would.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

Well I very rearly prime anything with oil . I hate the stuff.I really do not see the need for it. I live in an area that gets all type of weather. I have applied miles of latex primer on exterior bare wood and never had any problems. the only thing that I do differently is I always add Emalsbond(spelling) to the primer . I use the best primer I can buy and dump in the condtioner. I have gone back and look at jobs that I have done 8 years ago and apart from the dirt the paint looks great.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

What latex will block tannin bleed?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Thats my issue to with latex primers as good as they are they won't block tannin and I have tried. All the wood replacement we do is cedar and the scraping we do its cedar so oil it is.


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## Primer Guy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Tannin Bleed - Latex primer*

You have hit on an interesting dilemma. Oil primers on cedar will block tannin but also will block moisture vapor from escaping plus they will dry out and crack sooner than latex. Latex doesn't block tannin very well. What to do? Peel Bond penetrates and has limited tannin blocking capabilities. It locks on as well as the oil primer and remains flexible. To solve the tannin problem we make a product called Bleed Control that you add to the primer or topcoat to control tannin. It chemically reacts with the tannin to change it from a liquid to a paste that that won't bleed through the coating. So there is a good option for cedar without oil.


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