# A house we just finished...



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

We finished painting/staining this wooden home today. It is a good example of the type of work we handle a lot in summer (ie., Cedar Siding and Trim).

I under-estimated a bit, the amount of time it would take to complete. Almost every part of the exterior was painted or stained (wooden storms, doors, siding, trim, deck, screen porch...), and the siding was quite dry from previous owner neglect.


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

I think it turned out alright  

As a painter, I would fork over the money for vinyl or aluminum before ever doing something like this.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Masterwork said:


> I think it turned out alright
> 
> As a painter, I would fork over the money for vinyl or aluminum before ever doing something like this.


It was a challenging house, no doubt, but has the kind of charm you can only get in a wooden house. The new owners appreciate what they have, and understand the maintenance concerns. Nice that not everyone is going to vinyl and cement board.


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## thepm4 (May 18, 2020)

Was it already red?


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## thepm4 (May 18, 2020)

Fab job btw


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

thepm4 said:


> Fab job btw


Thanks! It was a “re-paint”. The color was already red, with a few modifications.

It was weathered, and faded, and the dry wood soaked up a lot of stain (thirsty). A lot of cutting-in required for almost everything.

Here’s a few “before” pictures that may give a better idea what was needed. Cedar typically needs to be re-stained every 7-10 years for optimal protection of siding (to prevent cupping and warping of the cedar siding).


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

looks awesome, what sort of prep did you do to the wood siding


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Vylum said:


> looks awesome, what sort of prep did you do to the wood siding


Pressure wash and mildew treatment (bleach/jomax/water them rinse with clean water) - allow to dry for 2 weeks.

Then mostly just caulking of gaps and cracks. Solid Latex Stain is easy in regards to prep work, does not require much except a clean surface.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Looks great @Holland. Looking at the side of the white trim where you had to cut in the body color to the trimmed sides, reminds me how lucky we are here in Oregon that, for the most part, trim is "faced-off", which is to say the trim color stops at the front edge. Maybe 5% of all the exteriors I do have the trim wrapped like yours. The sides of the trim are typically body color. Exceptions would be if it were a natural or stained body with painted trim, or maybe if it were an older home where trim details merge. You guys have it way tougher in that regard. Nice work man!


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

Nice work Holland, looks fantastic!


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Looks great @Holland. Looking at the side of the white trim where you had to cut in the body color to the trimmed sides, reminds me how lucky we are here in Oregon that, for the most part, trim is "faced-off", which is to say the trim color stops at the front edge. Maybe 5% of all the exteriors I do have the trim wrapped like yours. The sides of the trim are typically body color. Exceptions would be if it were a natural or stained body with painted trim, or maybe if it were an older home where trim details merge. You guys have it way tougher in that regard. Nice work man!


thank you, @stelzerpaintinginc.
Appreciate the comments.

Yeah, the trim was one of the things I missed in the estimate, and threw my numbers way off (in my defense I bid this job in early January). Only about 20% of homes around here are _*not*_ "faced-off". Often I recommend that the customer transition to face painting the trim, but in this case they rounded the corners around the windows, so I didn't even broach the subject with the customer.


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

i think it looks quite a bit sharper not faced off


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> Pressure wash and mildew treatment (bleach/jomax/water them rinse with clean water) - allow to dry for 2 weeks.
> 
> Then mostly just caulking of gaps and cracks. Solid Latex Stain is easy in regards to prep work, does not require much except a clean surface.


What product on the deck? Looks great


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> What product on the deck? Looks great


The local paint store carries Cabot- we used an oil based Solid Stain.
It’s one of the few remaining products that I trust not to peel on walking surfaces. When they stop carrying that, I’m done with decks.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> The local paint store carries Cabot- we used an oil based Solid Stain.
> It’s one of the few remaining products that I trust not to peel on walking surfaces. When they stop carrying that, I’m done with decks.


Yeah I've been trying to get Daly's to make a solid oil stain but they've lost their chemist so don't think I'll be seeing any new or specialty products from them for a while.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Yeah I've been trying to get Daly's to make a solid oil stain but they've lost their chemist so don't think I'll be seeing any new or specialty products from them for a while.


It's among the last oil Solid Deck Stains that I know of.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Holland said:


> It's among the last oil Solid Deck Stains that I know of.


What's the dry time like on it?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> What's the dry time like on it?


Dry time can range from overnight to several days, depends a lot on humidity and temperature ... it can stay tacky for several days if the humidity is high. 

Typically, it can be walked on (light traffic) in 48 hours. I told the homeowners to wait a week before putting furniture back on, and to wait longer before normal use, if possible (2-3 weeks should be close to full cure). 
*I err on the side of caution when relaying directions to clients.


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## Madriverpainting (Aug 21, 2020)

It looks great! Nice work! Very similar to a lot of what’s up here in VT!


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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

Looks great!

How did you get to the top of the barn to paint the wind vane? The goat?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cardgunner said:


> Looks great!
> 
> How did you get to the top of the barn to paint the wind vane? The goat?


Thanks!

The Dutch Colonial roof style (if thats the correct nomenclature) does not work with the Goat Pole.

We set a 28' extension ladder against the roof, and then put a 13' ladder next to it.
Climbed up the 13', and then stepped onto the 28' to walk up the roof to paint the cupola. 
* I always switch cupolas to Solid Stain, because paint fails so quickly on them due to exposure and proximity to the roof (snow and rain cause the paint to fail quickly).


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Holland said:


> Thanks!
> 
> The Dutch Colonial roof style (if thats the correct nomenclature) does not work with the Goat Pole.
> 
> ...


The house looks great! The color scheme reminds me of the Benjamin Moore cottage red house I grew up in. 

As to Dutch Colonial roof nomenclature, the roof is commonly referred to as a gambrel here in the northeast. My sister’s former residence is quite possibly the first gambrel ever built in the US aka the Alexander Standish house which was purportedly built in 1666, Alexander being the son of Myles Standish.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

“Gambrel” 

...thank you.


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## Respec (Sep 13, 2015)

Looks pretty sweet!


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## 54pontiac (Jan 7, 2014)

Vylum said:


> i think it looks quite a bit sharper not faced off


Yes, I don’t understand the “face-off” trend. I think it makes the architectural detail look flat and cartoonish. I always try to convince the homeowner to go back to the traditional look. We don’t do that on the inside, so why the outside?


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I've never actually heard the term 'faced off', nor seen exterior trim painted that way. I guess it would make things easier, but that's not always better.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

I think one of the main factors determining whether it’s faced off or not, is the height of the trim.

When Cedar Lap Siding is used next to 5/4” trim, there is only a difference of about a 1/4” height (sometimes less), as compared to when 2x4” trim is used, which sits an inch or more above the siding.

It gets tedious trying to cut a nice line when there isn’t much clearance. It looks clean and “squared off” when it is faced-off in those cases.

Looks better “faced off”, especially from a distance, as the trim lines look very straight and uncluttered. I will often recommend facing off when the cut line starts looking unsightly, after too many paint jobs, or when the caulk is difficult to paint over, etc...


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I have grown to prefer the faced off trim look for almost all lap siding jobs, largely for reasons explained by Holland.


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## Jelyamorw (Oct 4, 2021)

Great job! Renovations are always a long time coming. But then you can forget that word for many years. When my family built a house, everyone was very excited. We invited all our friends to the housewarming party. All night we told them how difficult it was to make, but in the end, we did it. Remains just had to add a few details. My wife ordered an unusual house number sign here https://baliandboo.com/collections/house-signs. I was actually impressed with her choice. It will look great on our house.


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## Duncan09 (Oct 2, 2021)

It looks very cozy. We were building home 2 years ago, and I remember how it was hard. Great job!


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## Ravak (Sep 17, 2021)

Top Notch! I know the homeowners must be thrilled!


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## Knobbe (Mar 14, 2021)

Beautiful home and awesome paint work!


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