# Stain Rough Side Clapboards



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

I am estimating a job for an exterior. The clapboards are rough side out, and the south side of the house is in rough shape. I will have to scrape. So, the question is how, after scraping, do I get the best appearance. If I sand, it will smooth out the clapbords, and will male it look different from the areas where the stain remains. If I do not sand, l also get a terrible look. I believe that there is only one coat of stain. Should I remove it all with a chemical strip? Thanks.


----------



## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Light scrape
Sponge sand
Oil primer 
Should not loose the rough side out appearance


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Phinnster said:


> Light scrape
> Sponge sand
> Oil primer
> Should not loose the rough side out appearance


I get so used to thinking that the Festool should be used to sand everything (although I do not use it for everthing), I often forget that there are other methods. Thanks.


----------



## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

Pete
This is just the way I would tackle it 
I deal with rough side out a ton 
I love it and it usually does not peel

Others may have different thoughts


----------



## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

+1 Phinnster.
Do not remove it all, no need for that.
It looks like a solid stain, just scrape and use wire brush no need to sand, power wash let it dry, full coat of tinted fresh start oil primer. than use solid stain over. If it was me I wouldn't use latex paint on this.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

PremierPaintingMa said:


> +1 Phinnster.
> Do not remove it all, no need for that.
> It looks like a solid stain, just scrape and use wire brush no need to sand, power wash let it dry, full coat of tinted fresh start oil primer. than use solid stain over. If it was me I wouldn't use latex paint on this.


It is a solid oil stain. Not using a paint. Solid stain.


----------



## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

You could use a wire brush/wire wheel depending on how prominent the profile..


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Tonyg said:


> You could use a wire brush/wire wheel depending on how prominent the profile..


Ditto, just put a wire cup wheel on a grinder and it will go quick.


----------



## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Just make sure the wire cup is worn down a ways because a brand new one will tear the hell out of soft wood. I used to break down new ones by grinding them on the curb to get the sharp off of them.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Tonyg said:


> You could use a wire brush/wire wheel depending on how prominent the profile..


I have never heard of a wire cup.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Ok, looked up wire cup.


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

I remember Ken talking about Osborn brushes for wood restoration and Ive been wondering how they would work for this type of project.


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Pete the Painter said:


> It is a solid oil stain. Not using a paint. Solid stain.


 
Ben Moore has a new Arborcoat Solid in dead flat they introduced last year, the 610 line. I painted a cedar fence with it in white, over 150 feet, both sides over aggressively prepped pickets. I was impressed with the hide and the handling of it, especially the dead flat yet smooth finish that hides a lot of scares, held back bleed, and did not accumulate any dirt over the winter despite being on a very busy road that is very close to the fence. The dead flat may hide some of the issues related to sanding rough side cedar claps. I rolled it with 4" microfiber sausage rollers. Too close to the road to risk spraying.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

NACE said:


> Ben Moore has a new Arborcoat Solid in dead flat they introduced last year, the 610 line. I painted a cedar fence with it in white, over 150 feet, both sides over aggressively prepped pickets. I was impressed with the hide and the handling of it, especially the dead flat yet smooth finish that hides a lot of scares, held back bleed, and did not accumulate any dirt over the winter despite being on a very busy road that is very close to the fence. The dead flat may hide some of the issues related to sanding rough side cedar claps. I rolled it with 4" microfiber sausage rollers. Too close to the road to risk spraying.


Thanks. I will check it out. Seems like the best option for me.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Anybody use one of these? Kind of like a wire cup, but nylon.


----------



## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Never seen them before, but just looked them up. They've got 80, 120 and 240 grit versions. Appear to get pretty favourable reviews on Amazon. I would have to imagine that would eat a drill up from overheating if you had to do a surface of any decent size.


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Pete the Painter said:


> Anybody use one of these? Kind of like a wire cup, but nylon.


Ever try using a cup wheel on a drill, it's not that easy. A side handle helps but a grinder is what you need for extended use. As I said in a previous post I haven't used them but these may be worth considering. 
http://www.sashco.com/products/finish-sanding/
They may wear faster since paint is generally harder than wood.


----------

