# Easy Sand Two Questions



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi,
Wanting to get my work done quicker, I started using Easy Sand 45 and 20 a few months ago, and I have a couple of questions for those that use it.

1) I think that it states on the bag (I do not have it with me right now) that it should not be used to skim coat. Why? And, can it actually be used for skim coating despite what the bag states.

2) sometimes I am getting bubbles when I use them. I did some research and found some info on drywall talk that suggests the problem is using it over paint. The thread noted that giving the paint a really rough sand and using dish detergent in the mud will help. Sanding with a more coarse paper seems to help a little--the dish detergent made the problem worse. Maybe I used to much.


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

We usually pre fill with 20 minute, sometimes 5 on small area. Typically top coat with lightweight after scraping with a putty knife and then sand. I have used straight 20 min for finish, and found it way harder to sand. Imo, its worth the extra step, and still quicker than using straight lightweight as far as dry time. Really depends on how perfect the finish needs to be for us.

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## oldpaintdoc (Apr 11, 2010)

How many times does this need said "setting type mud set in those time frames but still needs normal drying time".


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

oldpaintdoc said:


> How many times does this need said "setting type mud set in those time frames but still needs normal drying time".


Setting type mud can be used as an undercoating or prefill and save tons of time...you can topcoat it with lightweight way faster...saves you half to full day in many applications. Imo anyways...you still have to let the final product dry properly I agree, but the time benefit of using quick set is more for the prefill or building out portion of the task at hand.

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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

We use h 10 - 15 bags per week . We do all phases of taping right down to the skim coat. Mostly 45 and 90. The main thing is to let cure before recoating . The thicker you leave it the more time it takes to cure. You just need to be very carefull not to leave edges and to feather everything extra wide. Its the same as AP mud having fans and a dehumidifier speeds the process. we also add 1 scoop of AP mud for final coat with each bag we mix. Main thing is if it needs sanding skim it again. I actually am level 5ing a few walls tommorow. I can get some pics. Ez sand does dry faster but the key is to get it to cure before recoating to reduce bubble and shrinkage


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

A few year ago I worked for another painter who had us skim entire walls with it. It was a nightmare to sand (most of the crew had never even done this before), in the long run it cracked in a bunch of places. I wasn't with the painter any more at that point so i have no idea why it cracked or how bad.

I know the painter ended up calling in a plaster to skim the entire interior again.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I have used EZ sand in all forms, 20, 45, 90, to skim walls and ceilings for years. No problems sanding or with cracking (unless my fault for some reason). I rarely even buy green lid stuff. Durabond top coated with 2 coats of EZ sand is great for all taping or just EZ sand for skimming. Love it.

It does take many bags to get the mix consistently the way it works best. Not necessarily how it worked last time, but always the same.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

One trick i use is place fresh luke warm water in gal jugs. 1 gal equals a bag. Everymix is different but its a good starting point. Another tip is to drill mix then wipe down edges of pail with 6" knife let set a minute or so then remix.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Boco said:


> One trick i use is place fresh luke warm water in gal jugs. 1 gal equals a bag. Everymix is different but its a good starting point. Another tip is to drill mix then wipe down edges of pail with 6" knife let set a minute or so then remix.


Yes to both. #2 is key.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Definitely more bubbles over paint or primer, but laying the knife real flat on the last skim should eliminate them. You should never have to use soap. 

And it can be used for all phases of finishing, though depending on the size of the job it can be faster to not have to mix your batches. I'll use USG Formula VLS for skim coat.


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

Am I the only one who thinks easy sand is to soft after drying?, what I mean by "soft" is that it scratches easy with the finger nail(before priming). I like using proforms compound (black top/lid). 


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

oldpaintdoc said:


> How many times does this need said "setting type mud set in those time frames but still needs normal drying time".


That's been my experience, it sands fine the next day.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

The Pdca had a whole class on skim coating. The guy used EZ sand a lot, unless there was enough work to be able to use AP and have it dry in time to do next coat. 


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

If you let it sit for like 15 seconds before giving it he final wipe it will help eliminate the air bubbles.


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## Cutandroll (Mar 3, 2014)

I use 45 and 90 note often then not. I mix it to the consistency I like for each coat. I rarely have an issue that a skim coat won't fix. If you're trying to patch with one coat your kidding yourself. 

Bubbles usually come when the top coat dries too fast the bottom is still curing. Let it do it's thing or force with a heat gun. Either way I like it better than pre mixed


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I love hot mud I very much prefer proform's over Sheetrock brand (Usg?) the trade off to joint compound is that it leaves bubbles and inconsistencies when it dries. Usually not enough to worry about if you're mixing it well. I would never put soap in my mud but you absolutely have to scuff sand any sheen off before skimming with that stuff.


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## Sir Mixalot (Sep 8, 2009)

I use USG Easy sand 5 and 20 minute the most. :thumbup:
Always read the directions on the bag. It matters! :yes:
Most of the brands have different mixing times. 
Easy Sand= Let sit 1 minute before remixing to desired consistency
ProForm= Let sit 3 minutes....


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## whispersd41 (Nov 29, 2021)

I work in a building which is over 100 years old. There are certain areas which just crumble. I'm wondering if I could mix Liquid latex acrylic with easy sand 45? I'm at my wits end with constantly having to repair the areas over & over again


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

whispersd41 said:


> I work in a building which is over 100 years old. There are certain areas which just crumble. I'm wondering if I could mix Liquid latex acrylic with easy sand 45? I'm at my wits end with constantly having to repair the areas over & over again


Odd to reply to a 7+ yr old thread that's only slightly related to your issue.

Make an Intro thread for yourself to tell people about your experience in the painting industry.

And then just make a new thread explaining your issues, maybe including some photos of problems, including in areas you've tried to fix before.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Joe67 said:


> Odd to reply to a 7+ yr old thread that's only slightly related to your issue.
> 
> Make an Intro thread for yourself to tell people about your experience in the painting industry.
> 
> And then just make a new thread explaining your issues, maybe including some photos of problems, including in areas you've tried to fix before.


New person - likely didn’t even notice the dates of past posts. Happens all the time, especially with the Recommended Reading section we now have. Corporate is planning to include a notice (or something) in the RR heading to make people aware that those are older threads, but when that will happen is anyone’s guess.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

RH said:


> New person - likely didn’t even notice the dates of past posts. Happens all the time, especially with the Recommended Reading section we now have. Corporate is planning to include a notice (or something) in the RR heading to make people aware that those are older threads, but when that will happen is anyone’s guess.


Yeah, it got more common after the last platform change which favors a "Recommended for you" line-up. But I already do get an "old thread" warning whenever I'm looking at one to reply - I think I have to actually click something to get around it. But a lot of people also don't use web boards very often so they don't really "get it." No big deal.


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

whispersd41 said:


> I work in a building which is over 100 years old. There are certain areas which just crumble. I'm wondering if I could mix Liquid latex acrylic with easy sand 45? I'm at my wits end with constantly having to repair the areas over & over again


Generally for crumbling parts/cracks with movement you're better using a plastic mesh, even if you're remeshing sometimes a whole wall. 





Something like that. 

Also for big areas while people like using Easysand/etc, once something is really huge and damaged imo Structolite is a lot better of a basecoat and much stronger than Easysand. If you're going down to original lath you're better off just using Structolite as your scratch and base coat, then only Easysand or Diamond Veneer as your finish coat.


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