# Tacky feeling walls



## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

One year ago I painted a bathroom after removing wallpaper, preped and primed walls. The color for the finish coat was a S/W "Brevity Brown" 
# 6068, it is a very dark chocolate brown. I selected Super Paint Exterior because it came in a dark enough base and I would not have to use Color Accents because of it's poor coverage. Two coats were applied.
My customer called and I went by to see her; the walls are tacky feeling!
Pictures had bumpers on them and a clock had been hung, the clock and the bumpers were stuck to the wall. 
I was sure to allow enough dry time between applications.
I can not remember for certain which primer I used, my guess is Preprite Problock, Latex, Bonds & Seals.
I will be talking with store manager tomorrow.
Any suggestions as to what this problem stems from?
TIA
Sage


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Did you remove all the paste from the wall after removing the paper?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

Surfactant leaching maybe?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

the only time I have ever come across this was when the client used hair spray all the time and it was thick on the walls.I have used exterior on interior also and not had a problem but it was my own house and I wanted to get rid of some paint I had left over. I would not want to buy exterior for a homeowner because it has mold retarding agents in it.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

You could try to wash off a section of the wall to see if it goes away.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

sage said:


> One year ago I painted a bathroom after removing wallpaper, preped and primed walls. The color for the finish coat was a S/W "Brevity Brown"
> # 6068, it is a very dark chocolate brown. I selected Super Paint Exterior because it came in a dark enough base and I would not have to use Color Accents because of it's poor coverage. Two coats were applied.
> My customer called and I went by to see her; the walls are tacky feeling!
> Pictures had bumpers on them and a clock had been hung, the clock and the bumpers were stuck to the wall.
> ...


How did the walls look? Fine? Blotchy? Darkened spots? Sounds like some paste may have been left behind.


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## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

The walls were in bad shape after paper was removed, I think that's why paper was installed to begin with. The walls had ridges like you would see from a waffel weaved backed paper, what I removed was a paper backed.
I did a lot of patching with drywall mud, hence the double primer application.
If this was caused by paste residue, what can be done to correct it?

Sage


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

We did a huge job where another company had stripped paper (we were too high) and then we went into paint. Immediately I showed the homeowner the left over paste all over the walls.. I even asked if they washed them at all? She said they will call the strippers back to wash the walls. They never called her back.

The washing fell into our hands, we spent a lot of time washing and washing. Days later, we applied PrePrite ProBlock Odorless oil to all the walls as recommended by SW due to possible residue and them living in the house. Well, days later the Odorless was still wet. SW came out, told us to apply the PrepRite ProBlock latex directly over it. Skeptical, but we did. Oooh... big mistake. We let it sit while hashing over a fix. Then ultimately applied Zinsser Cover Stain and asked the HO to leave. It worked but we never found out if the odorless failed or what happened because sw never followed up with issues.

We tossed around the idea of glue still left on the wall but we were assured the odorless would have dried over it anyway. I personally washed those walls and I am a freak about getting all the glue off (long prior to Gardz) so I cant say there was any left. Even if there was, it seems the job would have dried in areas and not others but the whole job was wet.

just sayin...


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

its not from glue, i've painted over dried wallpaper glue several times and it don't do that. I'm thinking the paint didn't have enough time to cure before they started using the bathroom full on and the moisture buildup kept the paint from curing properly.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

sage said:


> One year ago I painted a bathroom after removing wallpaper, preped and primed walls. The color for the finish coat was a S/W "Brevity Brown"
> # 6068, it is a very dark chocolate brown. I selected Super Paint Exterior because it came in a dark enough base and I would not have to use Color Accents because of it's poor coverage. Two coats were applied.
> My customer called and I went by to see her; the walls are tacky feeling!
> Pictures had bumpers on them and a clock had been hung, the clock and the bumpers were stuck to the wall.
> ...


My guess is that the problem is due to using a exterior paint on the interior of a bathroom.


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> My guess is that the problem is due to using a exterior paint on the interior of a bathroom.


Bingo:yes:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> My guess is that the problem is due to using a exterior paint on the interior of a bathroom.


thats basically what I said, you just, like usual, say it cooler.


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## DCcenter (Nov 3, 2010)

Contractors, never use exterior paint in a bathroom.

You really run the risk of getting home owners sick or triggering allergic reactions. Exterior paint takes longer to cure in a humid enivornment like the bathroom, and the excess fungicides, mildicides, and VOCs that are in most exterior paints continually leak out into the air. 


I would reprime the walls and repaint them with interior paint.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

DCcenter said:


> Contractors, never use exterior paint in a bathroom.
> 
> You really run the risk of getting home owners sick or triggering allergic reactions. Exterior paint takes longer to cure in a humid enivornment like the bathroom, and the excess fungicides, mildicides, and VOCs that are in most exterior paints continually leak out into the air.
> 
> ...


yes sir. Certain paints/primers are intended for certain areas, period. Good advice on the reprime. Also if that bathroom has an improperly-vented exhaust fan, the finish needs to be at least a satin. The homeowner should also be instructed to defrain from showering for at least a full day if possible. 



TJ Paint said:


> its not from glue, i've painted over dried wallpaper glue several times and it don't do that. I'm thinking the paint didn't have enough time to cure before they started using the bathroom full on and the moisture buildup kept the paint from curing properly.


 :thumbsup: Wallpaper adhesive that has been painted over will peel, flake, alligator, etc, . but not feel tacky. I luckily witnessed another painter do that many years ago and learned from it. I scrub, scrub, scrub, rinse, rinse, rinse, get it smooth bay-bee haha! Never hurts to apply Gardz the next day anyway.



jack pauhl said:


> We did a huge job where another company had stripped paper (we were too high) and then we went into paint. Immediately I showed the homeowner the left over paste all over the walls....


You'd hate to tell them "I told you so"...but they woulda saved in the long run had they chosen you from the beginning. I hate when customers know nothing of the trade, yet chose to go with the lowballer, shoot themselves in the foot, and come crawling back to you with puppy dog eyes and a low budget.


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## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

Thanks for all the info., since the exterior paint may be/probably is the problem how do I fix it? I have learned a valuable lesson, my theory was if it's good enough for outside it's good enough for inside; the shame of it is ....is that a experienced rep at the store knew what I was doing.........(putting exterior paint on the inside.
I intend to correct it so when re-primeing should it be a latex or oil?
Thanks so much for the help!

Sage (made a big boo boo!)


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

sage said:


> Thanks for all the info., since the exterior paint may be/probably is the problem how do I fix it? I have learned a valuable lesson, my theory was if it's good enough for outside it's good enough for inside; the shame of it is ....is that a experienced rep at the store knew what I was doing.........(putting exterior paint on the inside.
> I intend to correct it so when re-primeing should it be a latex or oil?
> Thanks so much for the help!
> 
> Sage (made a big boo boo!)


I'd give it a coat of Gardz- won't change the color- put a fan on it and you'll be able to recoat in a half an hour.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ParagonVA said:


> y
> 
> :thumbsup: Wallpaper adhesive that has been painted over will peel, flake, alligator, etc, . but not feel tacky. I luckily witnessed another painter do that many years ago and learned from it. I scrub, scrub, scrub, rinse, rinse, rinse, get it smooth bay-bee haha! Never hurts to apply Gardz the next day anyway.


I guess one positive thing about having apartment repaint experience on my resume is being able to test the limits of things like this in a environment where the stakes are low enough to find out what happens. Yes there is a bit of alligatoring but not much, depending on how much is remaining on the wall.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

i hear ya man.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ParagonVA said:


> i hear ya man.


i'm diggin your signature:thumbsup:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> thats basically what I said, you just, like usual, say it cooler.


I think your cooler! Your heads smaller. :thumbup:


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> its not from glue, i've painted over dried wallpaper glue several times and it don't do that. I'm thinking the paint didn't have enough time to cure before they started using the bathroom full on and the moisture buildup kept the paint from curing properly.


Bulls eye brother.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> My guess is that the problem is due to using a exterior paint on the interior of a bathroom.


I never knew you were that smart!!


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Re-prime with zinnser cover stain, smells like hill but will dry fairly quick. Then you can repaint with satin or semi.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

Coverstain rules and so does the Odorless- the harsh odor doesn't linger for long at all.

The only thing about it in Sage's case, is that it might be overkill. Reason being: I spot primed a bathroom ceiling , (with poor ventilation), many years ago with an oil primer and then topcoated with a latex semi. A few days later after the customer took a shower, all those primer spots were soaking wet from the steam accumulating and began forming droplets. I was only in college at the time with little experience, but the Ben Moore store manager told me I shoulda used a latex primer. A little tough when there were water stains, but for Sage a latex might be best so the walls can still breathe a bit. Just my opinion anyway...


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

ParagonVA said:


> Coverstain rules and so does the Odorless- the harsh odor doesn't linger for long at all.
> 
> The only thing about it in Sage's case, is that it might be overkill. Reason being: I spot primed a bathroom ceiling , (with poor ventilation), many years ago with an oil primer and then topcoated with a latex semi. A few days later after the customer took a shower, all those primer spots were soaking wet from the steam accumulating and began forming droplets. I was only in college at the time with little experience, but the Ben Moore store manager told me I shoulda used a latex primer. A little tough when there were water stains, but for Sage a latex might be best so the walls can still breathe a bit. Just my opinion anyway...


I know it was a while ago for you but... The spot primed area caught the water droplets because they had nowhere to go due to the ceiling being sealed. The Oil Primer created a different absorbancy and didn't let the water pass thru it.
Even Zinsser 123 primer states that the whole area will need priming in case of flashing. Some high opacity flatts you may "get away with" spot priming. 
Just thought I'd pipe up


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

yeah man- this was 'bout 10 years ago and as soon as I saw the droplets I knew...the oil primer wouldn't allow those spots to breathe for $hit. I'm glad I didn't prime the whole thing with that oil....:blink:.

Anyway, I've had pretty good luck with spot priming 1st w/ the primer, then with the paint, then doing an entire topcoat the next day. Walls in direct sunlight usually benefit from a full prime though, for sure. I love that 123- good stuff! stinky, but good.


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## The Painter Guy (Dec 10, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> its not from glue, i've painted over dried wallpaper glue several times and it don't do that. I'm thinking the paint didn't have enough time to cure before they started using the bathroom full on and the moisture buildup kept the paint from curing properly.


What he said!


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

it is paste


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## Laz (Nov 14, 2010)

I don't do a lot of wall paper removal but I was told that I don't need to wash the walls. Just sand them with a sanding sponge and prime using an oil. I have not had any problems. Now I do a paper removal and the sizing is coming off the wall. It was vinyl paper. I just pull off the top vinyl and started using the steamer just to wet and remove the paper. The sizing was acting like latex that kept peeling bad. 
I switched to just misting the paper with water and let it soak a bit to scrape it off. This helped a good deal but in some spots the sizing did just as bad. I asked the homeowner about the sizing. 

The story is wallpaper was removed once before with no sizing behind it. The homeowner then sized it herself using some type of powder she mixed with water. She then had someone hang the paper.
I have had small spots to fix in the sizing but nothing like this! I will have to skim coat large portions of the walls. I let them dry and sanded the walls with a sponge trying to minimize peeling. Now I am wondering do I prime with the tinted oil primer and sand after or used the Gards ans seal it up and sand then skim coat/patch after?


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

seal everything BEFORE patching, preferably with Gardz. After it has dried: lightly sand if you have any raised spots, skim, sand, seal again, lightly sand again, PAINT!! good luck.


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## Wallnut (May 4, 2010)

clean the walls before you prime... get all the glue off... either that or use oil to prime because water base will reactivate the glue. 

or if its just the clock and pictures that pushed imprints in the paint could be the paint couldnt cure right because of the constant moisture in the room plus stuff being hung against it too early...


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

Ive done a million wall paper removal jobs and take on as many as I can get. I discovered over the years that you will not 100% EVER get all of the adhesive off the walls. Oil base primer will seal any remaining adhesive hands down. Water base primer will activate adhesive and only create a mess. This is coming from experience


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

timhag said:


> Ive done a million wall paper removal jobs and take on as many as I can get. I discovered over the years that you will not 100% EVER get all of the adhesive off the walls. Oil base primer will seal any remaining adhesive hands down. Water base primer will activate adhesive and only create a mess. This is coming from experience


Yup. Remove paper, wash best as you can, oil prime & patch. :thumbsup:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

guardz works to seal paste. Maybe I was lucky,


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> guardz works to seal paste. Maybe I was lucky,


Gardz rules, 'cept it'll destroy a brush. what- do you gotta give it a final rinse w/ thinner or something? sheesh.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ParagonVA said:


> Gardz rules, 'cept it'll destroy a brush. what- do you gotta give it a final rinse w/ thinner or something? sheesh.


i prewet my brush before using it, helps a bit.


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## CPFSam (Nov 8, 2010)

I'm always careful about using oil based primers like kilz or cover stain after removing wallpaper. We really wash the walls really good to get all the glue off. It MUST dry completely, I usually let it sit a couple days with no shower use in the bathroom. Prime with bullseye or xim, then do the patchwork. The patching or mudding may not stick to any adhesive you left on. But I would really really say to get all of the adhesive off. And yea exterior paint in a steamy bathroom is a problem also. Especially dark colors, they never seem to get really super hard in a latex product esp superpaint.
Dont worry, youll look like a champ to the customer after fixing the problem and guaranteeing your work.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

CPFSam said:


> I'm always careful about using oil based primers like kilz or cover stain after removing wallpaper. .


Why?


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## CPFSam (Nov 8, 2010)

Because we usually wash and scrape adhesive till its all off. Which means they are very wet. If the walls still have unseen dampness it can cause a bubbling.
We usually remove all adhesive, wait 48 hours for dryness, apply alcohol based primer, light mud/sand then apply an orange peel texture.

After much trial and error in the great world of removing wallpaper, vinyl or grasscloth, this works for my company, and comes out great every time.


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## Mike Perley/ Plano (Oct 25, 2010)

Never use Exterior paint inside a house. Exterior paint has mildecide.

Next time sand off the wallpaper paste. Or as much as possible.

Prime the wall after tape and bed repair is finished with an alkyd oil base primer.

Then use an interior paint.

Is there an exhaust fan in the bathroom and does the homeowner use it when taking a shower?

You might have applied the second coat of paint before the first coat cured.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

for all you out there using oil primer after wallpaper strip, its time to get out of the 80's. just use gardz, and no I'm not a salesman.


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