# Doing some practicing!



## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

The schedule is looking light for the next few days so I am gonna do some practice soft washing my shop, and possibly my moms garage roof which has lots of dark stains on it. I have already been having pretty good luck washing transformers, but so far only putting the soap on with a pump sprayer or just dumping it outta the 5er.

To start out, I gotta figure out the ratio that my injector pulls at. Will have that done today hopefully. Then Ill do some algebra and figure it out so that I have about 2% SH hitting the shop walls, which are Dryvit. I'll post some pics in a bit, you can see some sorta green stains growing on the wall. Ill also add the recommended amount of Elemonator to the downstream brew just "cuz he said to".

I have the four nozzle softwash tip from PT, will see how far that thing shoots. The PW is a 4.5 gpm at 4000 psi.

Will any of this stuff stain the aluminum soffit/fascia? Should I try avoid it at all or just hit it straight on and just pretend Im cleaning it on purpose?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

What's this black knob for?




















The injector has "2.1" stamped into the brass part. Anybody know what that means?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

So...

Using my "soap low" tip. Hooked up downstreamer and ran into buckets until one gallon soap bucket was empty. Ended up with 2 fivers full, which would be one gallon of soap and 9 gallons of water. So, you could say that you get about about 10% strength out of the wand when downstreaming. The "soap high" nozzle ran a tad stronger ratio. Make sense?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

So... The bleach i have. The msds doesnt disclose what % SH it is.









I looked online and it said its a Trade Secret and they only say 5-10% by weight. Even if its 10%, I dont think that would be enough cause I would wind up with only 1% hitting the wall. Ok I gotta run to the pool store or somewhere. My math is telling me that I need to find some bleach that is 20% SH so that by the time it hits the wall, it'll be 2%. Brb.

Wait! I'm not gonna find 20% am I? I need a faster downstream injector?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

What downstream ratio is this guy likely basing his brew off?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

How long to soak? 1.5% SH sitting on the wall.


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## johnnyb (Jul 16, 2015)

black knob on the machine is your unloader valve, that one looks to be pressure trapped style of valve. when you let off your trigger, pressure builds up in the lines till it hits what that valve's spring is set to. then it will unload back to your low pressure side, or you can take that line and send it to a buffer tank. buffer tanks help dissipate heat from a larger source to recirculate water when off the trigger, heats the pump's packings enemy.

for that one gallon of soap pulled through the 9 gallons of water, when I do my math for mixing I've been using a 1:9 ratio for that. I may be wrong because I've heard it 10 different ways. but for me one part soap, nine parts water equals 10 total parts with one of them being the gallon of soap.

even if my theory is wrong, as long as you are consistent with your mixing whether it be 1:9 or 1:10 you'll be fine. unless you mix your sodium hypochlorite on site, the strength will vary on how long it has been sitting in that jug.

house washes for me can go anywhere from <1% to a 3-4% on neglected porous stucco. I always start weak with my mix because you can always make it stronger easier than weaker. as long as its not bare aluminum i've never had a problem at these strengths, being careful not to let it dry on the surface.

chlorox varies, but will probably have a 4-6% sh depending how they mix and stock in your area.

sodium hypochlorite is mainly stable up to 12.5%, you can go past this, but get practice at 12.5% and research before going beyond. it will reach a point of being unstable. your pool store may carry 12.5, mine in my area only carries 10%, which is more like 7-8% of fresh mix.

asphalt shingle roof cleaning you'll want a dedicated pump, low pressure on, low pressure rinse. (in my area it rains a lot, have to rinse. have heard of people not rinising, in my area with lots of rain thats dead plants later)


we can get much more in depth, but it'll turn into a novel lol


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Well I'm having a lot harder time than I thought I would locating some stronger bleach. Nearest place so far is a solid hour away. He wants $22 for a 5er of 11.8%SH and a $9 core deposit for the container. So if I assume the guys will wreck the container, thats about $31 for a 5er.

Sound about right?


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## johnnyb (Jul 16, 2015)

Depends on the area you live with the cost of living, and the demand for it, can always price check another store.

In my area I can get it for about a 1/3rd of that out of a pool store, but find their jugs they sell are hit or miss on potency.

I buy my cleaners all in powdered form and mix strengths based on how I am applying, and what / how dirty what I'm cleaning is.


In case anyone else runs into this problem I'll mention it, I wanted to buy powdered sodium hypochlorite and went to speak to my local pool store. She tried to sell me di-chlor and said is the same thing, it is not. While it has sodium hypo in it, it also has uv stabilizers and other things not needed for just cleaning mildew etc.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

johnnyb said:


> Depends on the area you live with the cost of living, and the demand for it, can always price check another store.
> 
> In my area I can get it for about a 1/3rd of that out of a pool store, but find their jugs they sell are hit or miss on potency.
> 
> ...


How do u do the math when using powdered? Trial an error?


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

you don't need stronger bleach, that bleach already has soap in it so need for eliminator, on that surface shoot it straight and it should clean it just fine


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)




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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Dave Mac said:


> you don't need stronger bleach, that bleach already has soap in it so need for eliminator, on that surface shoot it straight and it should clean it just fine


That original bottle of Clorox Outdoor didn't seem to do squat; maybe cause I was downstreaming it.

Had my brother pick up 10 gallons from the pool store and they claimed it was 11.8%. Ran that straight with a little Elemonator via the downstreamer. Mathwise that should calculate to about 1.3% SH hitting the wall in my PW. That seemed to do a semi-ok job. But it wasn't working very quickly. I was burning through a lot of material just trying to keep the wall wet. So I put one gallon of 11.8% into the pump sprayer with two gallons of water. That should be 3.9% hitting the wall. Now that brew worked and worked quickly! It also burned in my throat and dried out my hands.

So I think somewhere between 1.3 and 3.9 on the wall is where I need to be. It doesn't seem like I can accomplish that with my current injectors which have a 1.9mm and a 2.1mm orifice. I think if I step up to a 2.3mm orifice I might be able to get it strong enough downstreaming to do some good, at least on stucco.

I've also come to the conclusion that the guys on YouTube whose moss turns brown in like 5 seconds, they must be using some STRONG STUFF!!!! Even my brews had plenty of flavor to them, and my shirt is all splotchy now, but it still seemed to take a few minutes before the stuff really started loosening up.

P.S. Do you guys pay any attention to vehicle overspray or is the stuff harmless as far as that goes?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Bryce, a few answers to some of your questions...

-The injector looks like an Adams's Fixed Injector for 3-5gpm machines. I actually get the GP High-Draws from Pressure-Tek, which I prefer. I get them in 2-3gpm size and 3-5gpm size. The 2-3gpm size will draw a crapload of soap. 

-If you're concerned about the mix damaging a surface, make sure to pre-wet the area and follow-up with thorough rinse. My regular house-wash mix of 1% wouldn't hurt it, but don't want to speak for your mix, since there's still a few unknowns.

-If that's the Outdoor Clorox Bleach Concentrate, it's usually right around 8.25%, (but keep in mind that bleach degrades due to time, exposure, temps, etc., so if it's been sitting for a while, (which you'll never know with store-bought bleach), it could be 5-6%.

-If you can't find higher concentrations of Bleach, just increase the amount of the 8% bleach you're working with. It will get you through until you can find a good supplier.

-The ratio for that Elemonator recipe is most likely for 1% hitting the wall, which is pretty standard, although stronger mixes can be used for certain situations.

-Never try to use higher than 12-15% bleach. It becomes unstable and is very dangerous. Don't try powdered bleach just yet.

-Talk to a local pressure-washing outfit or a janitorial supply to find out their sources for Sodium Hypochorite. The price the pool guy quoted you is NOT good. You should be able to get bigger increments in $2-$3/gal range, less than half the cost that pool guy quoted you. If you're able to buy 55gals at a time, you'll be looking closer to $2/gal.

-Proper dwell time will depend upon many factors, so it'd be irresponsible for me to shout out a number, but in the shade on a 65 degree day with moderate wind & humidity, dwell times for me are anywhere from 5-15 minutes, depending upon how strong my mix is. The key is do not let it dry. If you've got a real dirty area that requires longer dwells, re-apply the mix as needed.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

That unloader looks a lot like the one on my Landa, (probably says VRT on the side?)
Doesn't even matter. The key is to set the unloader once and don't touch it again. From there, you'll adjust the pressure by using various tips. You first need to set your unloader properly...
-First, you need to get a pressure-gauge and hook it up at the gun. 
-Then, insert the highest pressure tip you'll be using. This way, any other tip you put in after will not exceed the pressure setting, (which could lead to flow loss).
-Next, determine the max psi you'll be wanting to use, (1,500 psi would be a good starting point), unless it's wood, then anywhere from 400-900 psi is what I use.
-Now, with the machine running, pull the trigger and keep it pulled, look at the gauge as you turn the unloader down until it reads the desired psi setting. Some guys turn it an eighth or quarter-turn back up from there, but no reason to over-complicate things right now.

Congrats! Your unloader is now properly set. Warn your guys that anybody messing with it will get a ear-full from you. As I stated earlier, your pressure from here on out will be adjusted by tip selection, not by the unloader. 

A few misc. suggestions: If you plan on doing a lot of washing, get a good swivel. They're a life saver on your wrist. This is the one I got and, together with a whip, it's made washing much more enjoyable
http://www.pressuretek.com/modgvsw3x3.html

Also, might wanna get a few injectors. Nothing worse than not having a spare when needed, and injectors are unpredictable as to longevity. Some will last for many jobs and some crap out after 1-2 jobs. Look into the high-draw injectors. Set em up on quick-connects so it's an easy swap-out when one is giving you trouble. Make your next purchase the 2-3gpm injector. It draws a ton of soap.
http://www.pressuretek.com/adamsinjector.html


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I guess you could even ask a dry cleaning biz in your area where they get their bleach.


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## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

something is not corrct, you are using a 4 gpm correct?? now that material that you are washing is a little tougher to clean then say vinyl or smooth wood, but that clorox was probaly 5% and downstream straight with a 4 gpm should of cleaned that stuff easily, maybe that clorox was bad, something is not right


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Stelzer, thanks for the info on setting up the unloader and how to dial in the pressure. Now I need to get a pressure gauge and get my rig setup.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

PNW Painter said:


> Stelzer, thanks for the info on setting up the unloader and how to dial in the pressure. Now I need to get a pressure gauge and get my rig setup.



I owe it all to Ken and the rest of the experts on the pressure washing forums I belong to.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

A lot of professional washers don't even try to downstream on dryvit. They apply direct diluted 12.5 with a chemical pump because many stains are really hard to get off.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

straight_lines said:


> A lot of professional washers don't even try to downstream on dryvit. They apply direct diluted 12.5 with a chemical pump because many stains are really hard to get off.


I was kinda wondering that myself....












Being it went good on my own office. Im gonna keep practicing on some local commercial buildings. That pic is a local retail strip. Maybe 300 feet long.

Would u bother removing the posters etc? Or just shoot the cleaner in behind them? Im a little nervous about discoloring the poster....

My plan is to just mix a little Elemonator straight in with the 12% pool shock. Downstream away. Thatll give me about 1.32% SH hitting the wall. Hopefully its strong enough. If not, I might have to do it with a pump sprayer, which will be slow.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You can get a pump kit for around $350. The yellow Kuri tec hose is nice and if you will be using it a lot would be worth the extra money. 

http://pressuretek.com/co12vose.html


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

straight_lines said:


> You can get a pump kit for around $350. The yellow Kuri tec hose is nice and if you will be using it a lot would be worth the extra money.
> 
> http://pressuretek.com/co12vose.html


Whats the difference bt that and the 1500 dollar fat boy? They're strictly for soaping not rinsing?


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Well it turned out pretty darn nice for a buncha amateurs. Took about 3 hours I guess. There were some stubborn spots that we had to go over quite a few times and eventually just hit em witjh straight 12.5% outta the pump sprayer. Wouldve liked them to be better but this building is about 15 years old and never been washed. Some of the streaks were almost black to begin with. Do u guys do much "scrubbing" with the "rinse low" tip or should the stuff just fall right off? The dark spots we soaped, rinsed (close range), soap rinse, soap, scrub brush, rinse. And that got em about as good as could be expected (I think). 

Once i get a faster injector I should be able to get it on the wall more in the 2% range and I think it'll be faster.






















You can see a silhouette where the old sign used to be... It has an orange tint to it. We got it probably about 50% better than it was to begin with. Wouldve liked it to be even better. Hit it multiple times with 12.5% straight outta pump sprayer. Scrubbed a lot. Thats all we could get. I know oxalic eats rust, but I didnt dare try that without doing my research.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

I can see why GPM is king in this business.... Especially when its rinse time.

Is the Fatboy Bandit the top of the heap? I think I would like bigger. Maybe something running 3/4" hose? Do u guys rig your chemical/roof pumps so that the battery always recharges when the truck is running? Or do u plug it in every night? Do u rinse with the same rig? Or fire up the gasoline powered 10 gpm?

The explanations on PT website kinda assume that you already know the business... They dont have a ton of info as far as explanations... Time to join another forum 😃 which one?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

bryceraisanen said:


> Whats the difference bt that and the 1500 dollar fat boy? They're strictly for soaping not rinsing?


Flow rate. The fat boy does 8gpm. I bought the bandit with the pump in a box, frame and reel. Don't regret it at all. I use it a lot to get chems out and someone else comes behind washing and rinsing.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

straight_lines said:


> Flow rate. The fat boy does 8gpm. I bought the bandit with the pump in a box, frame and reel. Don't regret it at all. I use it a lot to get chems out and someone else comes behind washing and rinsing.


So with the fatboy, u have to have ur own supply/buffer tank? Not many spigots that supply 8gpm.... Also, can u downstream, or do u gotta have it all premixed?

Ok ill go browse the SW forums an save u guys some typing lol


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

No you still need a tank, besides you are mixing your solution there is no fresh water. It will empty a five real quick.


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