# Best chemical paint strippers.



## Epoxy Pro

What is the best fastest working chemical stripper? Some thing good for the environment and for lead paints.

We have tried Smart Strip, and Peel Away. Both worked. We need some thing that works faster.


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## squid

I think Pb might be affecting your ability to write. Might be time for a blood test.

Piranha IV if they still make it, it's been years. I don't know about being "good" for the enviroment.


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## Epoxy Pro

Lol I need my head examined anyways.


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

As you know, effective strippers for lead are usually the ones that aren't so environmentally friendly. 

Try a test patch of the strippers you've used, put 4mil plastic over the patch, then seal the plastic tight. Since many of the active chemicals in these strippers tend to evaporate before being able to penetrate, the plastic may prolong the stripper's useful life. 

If it works, you'll be able to do it on a larger scale with 2 people hanging the plastic, taking a push broom to sweep all the air out from under the plastic, then reinforcing the tape with staples every 10' by stapling thru the tape. On a windy day, I'll put a piece of tape on top of the staple to help it from being pulled back thru the tape. Getting the plastic tight keeps the wind from getting to it, which is where the push broom comes in. 

The plastic trick might work and might not, but it's worth a shot. It's the best trick I know for stripping anything from wallpaper to paint. Good luck. 




Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## Shakey0818

Here's a few i have used.Not too eco friendly .
http://www.nutechpaints.com.au/specialtycoatingsnustrip.htm

http://www.fiberlock.com/lead/removers.html


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## Hankdog

*chemical strippers*

The eco-friendly strippers do not work quickly, but they do the job.

You should check out Leadoutpaintstripper.com and Franmar.com


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## JourneymanBrian

A quick fix would be ammonia + wallpaper paste for thickening. You can mix it as strong as you like, ammonia is strongly basic.


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## Roamer

What are you stripping?


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## chrisn

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> As you know, effective strippers for lead are usually the ones that aren't so environmentally friendly.
> 
> Try a test patch of the strippers you've used, put 4mil plastic over the patch, then seal the plastic tight. Since many of the active chemicals in these strippers tend to evaporate before being able to penetrate, the plastic may prolong the stripper's useful life.
> 
> If it works, you'll be able to do it on a larger scale with 2 people hanging the plastic, taking a push broom to sweep all the air out from under the plastic, then reinforcing the tape with staples every 10' by stapling thru the tape. On a windy day, I'll put a piece of tape on top of the staple to help it from being pulled back thru the tape. Getting the plastic tight keeps the wind from getting to it, which is where the push broom comes in.
> 
> The plastic trick might work and might not, but it's worth a shot. It's the best trick I know for stripping anything from wallpaper to paint. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stelzer Painting Inc.


any of the strippers I have used in the past would melt the plastic


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## Gough

chrisn said:


> any of the strippers I have used in the past would melt the plastic


For those, we use aluminum foil.


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## CRS

*Strippers?*

The best strippers are in Las Vegas.... har har.

Depends on what your stripping. Thicken NaOH to have some contact time and it will take the hide off a Rhino... 100% biodegradable. No VOC. Gotta be careful... it will burn/blind as much as the others.

As far as the solvent type strippers they are all based on the same principle.... strong solvency, gelled .... contact time is everything. They are all completely volatile.


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## Gough

CRS said:


> The best strippers are in Las Vegas.... har har.
> 
> Depends on what your stripping. Thicken NaOH to have some contact time and it will take the hide off a Rhino... 100% biodegradable. No VOC. Gotta be careful... it will burn/blind as much as the others.
> 
> As far as the solvent type strippers they are all based on the same principle.... strong solvency, gelled .... contact time is everything. They are all completely volatile.


Burns from strong alkalis are generally among the most severe, worse than those from strong acids. They deserve an extra level of care.


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## PressurePros

Duraprep200 (Glidden/Pittsburgh/Porter). You can soak your hands in it but it will strip 6 layers of paint from a masonry wall to the point all the layers just start to sag and you can wipe them away with a rag. I have had the same results on a painted log cabin.

It's expensive $40 gallon that covers 50 s.f or so per gallon. You have to apply it thick with an industrial airless.. I usually go for triple the mils of the existing coating.


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## PRC

I've been using pirahna nexstrip pro inside for the past week. Benzoyl alcohol based I believe. It takes 2-6 hours to liquify about 10-12 coats of paint. Has great sag resistance. Covered with plastic easy as pie in the morning. Doesn't burn or need neutralized, just washed to remove final residue. 2 applications to get to wood on these sashes.


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

PressurePros said:


> Duraprep200 (Glidden/Pittsburgh/Porter). You can soak your hands in it but it will strip 6 layers of paint from a masonry wall to the point all the layers just start to sag and you can wipe them away with a rag. I have had the same results on a painted log cabin.
> 
> It's expensive $40 gallon that covers 50 s.f or so per gallon. You have to apply it thick with an industrial airless.. I usually go for triple the mils of the existing coating.


Never heard of it. Can't wait to try it! Thx for the info.


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## JourneymanBrian

If youre melting alkyd or oil, (anything with fatty acids) it doesnt need to be stdong enough to melt plastic, as it just reacts with the fat.


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## JourneymanBrian

Sorry meant removing alkyd/oil not melting


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## soperfect paint

Better if you will use ammonia fix for wallpaper.


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