# Cleaning Bare Wood



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I haven't stained six panel pine doors in a long time. I remember using a product called Kleans Woods to clean off any pencil marks and marks from the metal bands. I can't remember who made it and can't find it anywhere.

What are you guys using to clean raw wood prior to staining?

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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I just lightly sand out stuff like that and then wipe down with a rag with thinner. Then let it air dry a bit.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I am assuming 6 panel solid pine interior doors. If so they are highly prone to splotching. I sand entire surface to 220 then wipe down with mineral spirits as a wood conditioner. I use oil based wiping stain with oil based poly 3 coats. A little overkill but have over 25 yr on 10 doors in a rental on James Island. They still look decent.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I sand them. I dont really 'clean them,' aside from blowing the sawdust off.

I do remember a ong time ago, we would stain and lacquer baseboard, that we wouldnt sand first. Occasionally, there would be a flouerescent mark on them, and my boss told us to dip a rag in the Prestain conditioner, and it wiped the marks right off.

Doors should be sanded though, but try the prestain trick.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

*Prepare wood for stain with Naptha*

A quick wipe-down with Naptha before sanding will help clean residual contaminants and insure you're not spreading it around by sanding it into the wood. After Naptha, scuff sand as usual for pencil marks, finger prints, etc,. It's an integral step IMO when preparing wood for staining, especially wood prone to blotching.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Tprice2193 said:


> I am assuming 6 panel solid pine interior doors. If so they are highly prone to splotching. I sand entire surface to 220 then wipe down with mineral spirits as a wood conditioner. I use oil based wiping stain with oil based poly 3 coats. A little overkill but have over 25 yr on 10 doors in a rental on James Island. They still look decent.


James Island is where the job is. 

I sanded and used mineral spirits but had the hardest time getting the black marks out (there was a ton of them). Looked at the back of the blue label prepaint Krud Kutter and it said it was fine for bare wood. Did a test spot and it stained over it without any blotches.

The krud kutter took the black marks and pencil marks off like they were nothing. 

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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Love Kurd Kutter. Don’ think I’ve ever seen the blue label kind.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

RH said:


> Love Kurd Kutter. Don’ think I’ve ever seen the blue label kind.


It's kind of greenish blue. Here's a pic this is all I use now.









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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

Rbriggs82 - Thanks for the tip on the Krud Kutter TSP substitute....I will be getting a bottle of that...sounfs like it would work good on dirty base boards...I have owned that house on JI since 1987. When I moved in 96 the resale market was not good do I rented it. Its been rented since...I live in the Myrtle Beach area now bet still do some of the maintenance myself. Sure wish my roof would last as long as the finish on those doors...


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Tprice2193 said:


> Rbriggs82 - Thanks for the tip on the Krud Kutter TSP substitute....I will be getting a bottle of that...sounfs like it would work good on dirty base boards...I have owned that house on JI since 1987. When I moved in 96 the resale market was not good do I rented it. Its been rented since...I live in the Myrtle Beach area now bet still do some of the maintenance myself. Sure wish my roof would last as long as the finish on those doors...


Sure thing, they sell it at Spectrum Paints. I don't recall ever seeing it anywhere else. 

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## RichieSam (Jan 3, 2018)

Use white vinegar. It helps to remove fingerprints, grime and general dirt left on unfinished furniture. If the wood has any sticky mesh or pine tree sap then place a few ice cubes in a zippered sandwich bag, then set the bag over the problem area until the gum or sap hardens. Carefully chip the hardened mass away with a plastic knife or spatula.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I haven't stained six panel pine doors in a long time. I remember using a product called Kleans Woods to clean off any pencil marks and marks from the metal bands. I can't remember who made it and can't find it anywhere.
> 
> What are you guys using to clean raw wood prior to staining?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Every shop in Chicago that I've worked for since the mid 70's uses this product, for washing walls, woodwork, to wipe down seams when hanging vinyl and for washing stripper off of wood. http://www.uspaintsupply.com/paint/glisten-blue-soap/
The caveat is that us paint supply is always out of stock, with no explanation as to why! I buy it either direct from Reliable or from J.C. Licht paint stores which owns them.
I can never be without this soap as it cleans everything better than anything else I've ever used. I always have at least one 5 lb. tub on hand.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

I have one painter who swears by Daly's Benite. He showed me some dingy oak cabinet doors where he was using it as a cleaner and conditioner using a maroon scotchbrite then brushing on a few coats of teak oil.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

i use a little soap and a washcloth while i am in the shower. can't think of another way to wash my bare wood.


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## mukhoeb (Jul 16, 2010)

Dirt , oil and labels come off with denaturated alcohol or lacquer thinner .


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

mukhoeb said:


> Dirt , oil and labels come off with denaturated alcohol or lacquer thinner .


who puts labels on their bare wood?


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

Careful Pac! The grain in bare wood will water pop...


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