# Spraying Trim-work



## Joseph (Aug 26, 2013)

Just wanted some opinions as to what's the best way to re-paint trim/baseboards/door jams. 

I usually go by the rule of thumb that you should only spray masking paper/tape 3X max. One prime and 2 coats of paint. I recently sprayed a house using that almost pee like off white colour that has a neon green base. I call it pee white and hate it because it takes so many coats. Anyway it took me 5 coats to spray the trim. By that time the first coat was to cured and would've peeled when I pulled. The only solution I could think of was to let it dry then score it with a razor before pulling. worked fine and looked great but wondering if anyone has had any luck with another way of doing it because scoring takes a little longer. 


https://www.calgarypropainting.com


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

Joseph said:


> Just wanted some opinions as to what's the best way to re-paint trim/baseboards/door jams.
> 
> I usually go by the rule of thumb that you should only spray masking paper/tape 3X max. One prime and 2 coats of paint. I recently sprayed a house using that almost pee like off white colour that has a neon green base. I call it pee white and hate it because it takes so many coats. Anyway *it took me 5 coats to spray the trim*. By that time the first coat was to cured and would've peeled when I pulled. The only solution I could think of was to let it dry then score it with a razor before pulling. worked fine and looked great but wondering if anyone has had any luck with another way of doing it because scoring takes a little longer.
> 
> ...


I will just say it shouldn't take 5 coats to coat your trim package.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I was thinking the same, you could spray the trim with milk and get full coverage in less coats.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Use a higher quality paint.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Joseph said:


> Just wanted some opinions as to what's the best way to re-paint trim/baseboards/door jams.
> 
> I usually go by the rule of thumb that you should only spray masking paper/tape 3X max. One prime and 2 coats of paint. I recently sprayed a house using that almost pee like off white colour that has a neon green base. I call it pee white and hate it because it takes so many coats. Anyway it took me 5 coats to spray the trim. By that time the first coat was to cured and would've peeled when I pulled. The only solution I could think of was to let it dry then score it with a razor before pulling. worked fine and looked great but wondering if anyone has had any luck with another way of doing it because scoring takes a little longer.
> 
> ...


What brand of paint did you use? What kind of sprayer? Thinned? Not thinned?

Score with razor if needed.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> I was thinking the same, you could spray the trim with milk and get full coverage in less coats.



Milk paint


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## GHP (Mar 22, 2015)

I recently sprayed my trim and doors, I used pro classic semi gloss, with a graco truecoat 2 airless sprayer. turned out pretty, good. 2 coats.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

ya gotta run the water out of the line first, then it covers better.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Different Strokes said:


> ya gotta run the water out of the line first, then it covers better.


:laughing:


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Joseph said:


> Just wanted some opinions as to what's the best way to re-paint trim/baseboards/door jams.
> 
> I usually go by the rule of thumb that you should only spray masking paper/tape 3X max. One prime and 2 coats of paint. I recently sprayed a house using that almost pee like off white colour that has a neon green base. I call it pee white and hate it because it takes so many coats. Anyway it took me 5 coats to spray the trim. By that time the first coat was to cured and would've peeled when I pulled. The only solution I could think of was to let it dry then score it with a razor before pulling. worked fine and looked great but wondering if anyone has had any luck with another way of doing it because scoring takes a little longer.
> 
> ...


What product are you using? Dulux, Sherwin, General paint, Benjamin Moore, big box store?


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## perry tradesman (Jan 3, 2012)

I just saw your post about spraying trim-
did you say it is a repaint? If so you sound like you were full priming? Maybe I'm wrong but your post does say 1 prime coat and 2 finish-

If your full priming existing casings,doors Etc. That have all ready been painted why would you do that?

In fact let me go back and take a look at your post BRB.

Joesph your post does not really make sense 5 coats and your spraying
you should never have a problem with coverage if your spraying.

What product are you using anyway just curious...
I spray a lot of High end jobs I wish I could help you out Joseph here are a few pix of my work I'll post some more with me if It's a job with existing trim (painted) I'm probably gonna brush on 1 coat if It's "match existing color" probably even gonna use a brush for 2 coats and I almost never use latex-
If It's new work raw wood or factory prime job I'm gonna spray no question on real High end jobs I use car paint- if not I'm going to use B-M Ironclad enamel.
Hit me back,

Perry


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## perry tradesman (Jan 3, 2012)

couple more pics of some older existing oak cabinets that I sprayed-
Perry


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

perry tradesman said:


> couple more pics of some older existing oak cabinets that I sprayed-
> 
> Perry



Are you sure that's oak?


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Are you sure that's oak?


Shouldn't there be some grain if the cabinets are oak?


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

paintball head said:


> Shouldn't there be some grain if the cabinets are oak?


If you fill the grain first = no grain on the finish product...


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Are you sure that's oak?



I don't think those are oak either


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I don't think those are oak either



It was all I could do to not write more than those 5 little words, "are you sure that's oak". Trying to exercise restraint, especially if any elaboration on my part doesn't benefit the OP. It ain't easy though.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Delta Painting said:


> If you fill the grain first = no grain on the finish product...


From our experience, even filling the grain isn't enough to obscure the overall grain pattern on oak; it takes something more involved, like floating it with Swedish Putty. Filling the grain may take care of the pores, but not that grain pattern from the difference between early wood and late wood. At least that's what we've seen.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> It was all I could do to not write more than those 5 little words, "are you sure that's oak". Trying to exercise restraint, especially if any elaboration on my part doesn't benefit the OP. It ain't easy though.



I'm trying to learn restraint but I'm not there yet. I agree with you. Better to focus on posting what's actually helpful. Sometimes less is more. 
Good reminder. I actually had typed more and then deleted. I guess I'm learning.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Gough said:


> From our experience, even filling the grain isn't enough to obscure the overall grain pattern on oak; it takes something more involved, like floating it with Swedish Putty. Filling the grain may take care of the pores, but not that grain pattern from the difference between early wood and late wood. At least that's what we've seen.


Just a thought and I haven't had to fill grain in a long time.

But what about a wood filler and then a high build primer? I did some work on some exterior wood columns and I used some high build high fill primer and it worked pretty good to help smooth it out. But didn't put any filler on them either.

Something like a prime rx or XIM peel bond comes to mind.

Just a thought.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

woodcoyote said:


> Just a thought and I haven't had to fill grain in a long time.
> 
> But what about a wood filler and then a high build primer? I did some work on some exterior wood columns and I used some high build high fill primer and it worked pretty good to help smooth it out. But didn't put any filler on them either.
> 
> ...


That might be the ticket. On high-visibility areas, like entries, we like to go the extra mile and use Swedish Putty to give a really smooth finish.


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## GHP (Mar 22, 2015)

Yes oak will show grain patterns, even after 2 coats of thick oil primer and 2 coats of finish paint, unless you use some sort of putty, perhaps swedish putty


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## Joseph (Aug 26, 2013)

It was actually the first time it ever took me that many coats to spray a job. Usually with re-paints I just prime and finish with 2 coats of Dulux Diamond. 

The paint was BM Aura and wasn't thinned or anything. I sprayed it on with an Airlesco rig equipped with a Graco gun and 211 tip.

I talked to the rep and he old me the colour has mostly neon green as a base and would have terrible hide, he said it could take 5 coats. I only had to spray one room with the neon green/off white junk so It wasn't to big of a deal, just frustrating to work with.

Not to many home owners ever want that colour (1st one I've had for trim) but if I ever have to do it again I'll try going milk first and see what happens.


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## Joseph (Aug 26, 2013)

perry tradesman said:


> I just saw your post about spraying trim-
> did you say it is a repaint? If so you sound like you were full priming? Maybe I'm wrong but your post does say 1 prime coat and 2 finish-
> 
> If your full priming existing casings,doors Etc. That have all ready been painted why would you do that?
> ...





The prime was because I was painting oil with latex.


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