# Options for refinishing shellac finish on interior windows



## Pierson Painting (Mar 25, 2011)

I've have a client that wants her interior windows refinished. The house was built in the 60's, the wood is pine with a shellac finish. The only areas that show wear is the lower jambs and sides. Some of the shellac has worn off, there is minimal dark stains for water condensation. I've never dealt with shellac before, usually use Spar Urethane. Not sure what avenue I should take, treat water stains with wood bleach, sand and apply Zinsser Bullseye shellac sealer to match original shellac. Should I Zinsser Seal Coat then apply shellac. Or Seal Coat and apply a UV Poly or Spar Urethane, that route I'm a little concerned of not getting the same look as the Shellac. I'm not removing all the original shellac around windows because there's nothing wrong with it, just removing bad areas and blending in.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

I would stay with Shellac finish easy to blend the new finish with the old they will melt together.. The only issue I can think of is is it amber or clear Shellac..


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## Pierson Painting (Mar 25, 2011)

I'm thinking Amber, going to test both. I've had other opinions to stay away from shellac because of the moisture, but after 50 some years, I think they've held up fairly well.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Yes they have.. I think a good sand in the water stained ares then hit them with a thinned shellac to prime those spots so to speak then a full 2 coat finish will make them look nice..


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## Pierson Painting (Mar 25, 2011)

Are you saying full 2 coats of shellac or something like Spar Urethane or UV Poly?


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Shellac...


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## eews (Apr 18, 2007)

scuff sand.
sand out or otherwise deal with water stains. seal with Seal Coat. 
Topcoat with a quality marine varnish, like Epiphanes.
this will be much more durable, plus provide UV protection.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I agree with the others.

Sand it good, clean it.

Then apply a top coat with UV inhibitors.

Shellac will do great with water repelling, but doesn't do good with sun exposure or temperature changes.

Epifanes is an option, man-o-war, general finishes 450 exterior, or if you had to water based helmsman.

Go with a water based top coat as it will generally not yellow over time as badly as an oil.


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## Pierson Painting (Mar 25, 2011)

I'm thinking sanding, taking care of water stains, applying amber shellac to match original shellac, sealcoat then applying spar urethane to handle the sun and any further condensation. Starting Monday, I'll experiment and see how it goes. Thanks for all the input!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Pierson Painting said:


> applying amber shellac to match original shellac


Just a *heads-up*, unless you have a source for de-waxed *amber shellac*. The amber shellac they sell from Zinser (Lowe's / Home Depot) *contains wax*. 

Which will screw up your plan to put spar urethane on it as it won't want to stick. 

If you have to use Shellac, I think your best bet is to use the de-waxed version and tint it to an amber tone to match. Or get a source for amber shellac that is dewaxed. 


Good luck and let us know how it goes.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Super easy to fix that. I would buy some different variations of flakes depending on the color there and make my own.. 
https://www.shellac.net/


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