# New redwood drying time



## asthma76 (Apr 18, 2009)

I always use a prong type moisture meter before painting, but this type of meter only tests the surface. I've read mix opinions about how long to wait before painting new redwood. I'm using an inductive type meter now and I'm reading 21% moisture in a 4x10 redwood thats been sitting in the sun for 2 months. even the 2x6 is reading 20%. Ive read latex paint breaths so if used on green redwood the wood can still dry once painted. this wood is for a trellis so all sides of the wood is getting painted so no where for the moisture to escape. Wondering how long everyone waits before painting new redwood.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Where is the redwood being stored at? It may help to let it acclimate in a warm dry area for a while, before coating it!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Brushman4 said:


> Where is the redwood being stored at? It may help to let it acclimate in a warm dry area for a while, before coating it!


*****


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## asthma76 (Apr 18, 2009)

I had it outside at 80+ degree weather for about a month and a half then in my garage for a couple more weeks. temps starting to cool down.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

The acceptable moisture content will depend on what the equilibrium point is for your area. As for the type of paint, redwood has a lot tannin that will bleed through if not oil primed.


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## asthma76 (Apr 18, 2009)

I'm in the east Bay Area. I know Oakland is about 13% I?m assuming more inland is less. Do I subtract that from moisture meter reading to get the actual moisture reading?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I would think about using an awesome solid stain like Proluxe Rubbol for a trellace. I have seen what happens to paint in these situations (bubbling)..
Maybe a fan or two would be good to help dry the wood, and a dehumidifier if you need quicker results.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

RH said:


> *****


I feel like Rodney Dangerfield, no respect!


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Is the wood still in the garage? Even a large enclosed area will impede evaporation. Long oil primers are breathable due to pin holes caused by solvent evaporation. Faster dry oil primers are less breathable and more brittle. Water based primers will activate tannins in the Redwood and cause bleeding unless you are using a dark color that will mask the bleed. US Forestry Service posts all the stats for wood species and their acclimated moisture contents for different areas of the country. 21% seems high to apply a film forming coating. The range for Redwood in the Northeast is 8-12%. A fan or dehumidifiers in the garage may get it down quicker allowing for circulation and evaporation.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

NACE said:


> Is the wood still in the garage? Even a large enclosed area will impede evaporation. Long oil primers are breathable due to pin holes caused by solvent evaporation. Faster dry oil primers are less breathable and more brittle. Water based primers will activate tannins in the Redwood and cause bleeding unless you are using a dark color that will mask the bleed. US Forestry Service posts all the stats for wood species and their acclimated moisture contents for different areas of the country. 21% seems high to apply a film forming coating. The range for Redwood in the Northeast is 8-12%. A fan or dehumidifiers in the garage may get it down quicker allowing for circulation and evaporation.



Really? It is pin holes (assuming microscopic) that allow breathability in long oil? I have never liked how much build the long oil primer have (think BM 100), especially if doing solid stain. I prefer the application and lesser film build of 094 or 366. If I apply 100, it needs thinning to apply for sure on rough cedar.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Why prime underneath a solid stain? I've never been asked to do that.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Woodco said:


> Why prime underneath a solid stain? I've never been asked to do that.


tannin bleed. Unless you use an alkyd (real alkyd, not a dual dispersion) that is.But if the plan is to recoat it in a couple of years than an acrylic stain will work, but you won't get quite the adhesion from it. If longevity and durability are a concern, a long oil alkyd either as a primer or a solid satin (not many left btw.) is the best system, although you do open up the possibility (probability?) of having mildew issues on a straight alkyd stain. It's never easy is it?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

For me, the primer is usually to stop tannin bleed. Also, the conventional wisdom where I live is still that oil is the best bet for the first coat of something on exterior wood. I am not sure if this still applies across the board, but that is still the current mindset. The thought is that the oil soaks into the rough cedar further than an acrylic stain providing a better foundation for the next coats.

I am not 100% certain this still applied though. Acrylics have come a long ways and oils are being regulated and reformulated into lessor products than they once were.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Really? It is pin holes (assuming microscopic) that allow breathability in long oil? I have never liked how much build the long oil primer have (think BM 100), especially if doing solid stain. I prefer the application and lesser film build of 094 or 366. If I apply 100, it needs thinning to apply for sure on rough cedar.


Yes pin holes through solvent evaporation. I like the 094 and 366 however since they are faster drying oils they would tend to be a little harder and less pin holes due to quicker evaporation. He has a higher moisture content so I would choose a system that would beathe in conjunction with an acrylic topcoat while protecting against tannin bleed. As more layers of coats are applied, eventually the pinholes and pathways will be blocked and the system is no longer breathable. As a general rule flatter finishes are more breathable then higher sheen finishes. If you layer three pieces of Swiss cheese on top of each other eventually all the holes are blocked. Same as a paint film. 100-00 is more of a bonding and filling primer, as the faster dry types are more sealing.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

asthma76 said:


> I'm in the east Bay Area. I know Oakland is about 13% I?m assuming more inland is less. Do I subtract that from moisture meter reading to get the actual moisture reading?


No. The equilibrium point for your area is the target moisture content for the wood you are dealing with. In other words, you'd like the redwood to be close to 13% moisture content.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I want to see a scanning electron microscope photo of this pin hole effect on a long oil vs 4-6 hour oil primer. 

I always figured breathability was related the molecular structure of the cured resin and how “tight” the bonding is between molecules. It almost sounds like the pin hole effect is an accident.


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## asthma76 (Apr 18, 2009)

I always wondered when homes are built do they actually wait for the wood to fully dry before painting? I highly doubt it. I was told by an old painter that redwood is not suppose to get painted cause eventually it?ll push the paint out. This is such a small project and I?d really like to get the wood out of my garage. Any other recommendations? Do u think if I use a penetrating primer (slow oil) I?d be ok with 21% moisture? Not sure if I can find any good oils anymore. All the good stuff is off the shelves out here.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

asthma76 said:


> I always wondered when homes are built do they actually wait for the wood to fully dry before painting? I highly doubt it. I was told by an old painter that redwood is not suppose to get painted cause eventually it?ll push the paint out. This is such a small project and I?d really like to get the wood out of my garage. Any other recommendations? Do u think if I use a penetrating primer (slow oil) I?d be ok with 21% moisture? Not sure if I can find any good oils anymore. All the good stuff is off the shelves out here.


I painted a redwood fence and gate recently in East Contra Costa County. Granted, that's when we were experiencing 110 degree temperatures. How about Oakland during that time! Anyways, the wood was kind of wet even though it was purchased from one of our local independent lumber yards. I just applied two coats of Bullseye 123, and a coat of BM Moorelife exterior flat . Looks great so far.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Painted a $60K redwood deck once on a McMansion. Cried the whole time. Got done with it, stood back and got the overall view. Wondered; "What have I done???".


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Maybe it is just me, but due to the whole “oil and water not mixing thing” I would rather use an acrylic than oil if moisture levels are elevated. Maybe my reasoning is flawed there, but I worry that the oil won’t penetrate properly if moisture levels are too high and cause problems.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

California Storm System alkyd primer and a coat of Storm system solid acrylic. (drops mic, walks off stage). Permeable alkyd stain, acrylic mildew resistant topcoat. Done. For years.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Interesting note here. In Ohio, it is pretty typical for wood to almost NEVER get to a moisture content that is the moisture content level recommended by most of the box store exterior stains. And i mean like two to three weeks out of the year. So tell me, why are people having so many problems with the horrid voc complying water based and water based alkyd stains these box stores (SW IS a box store btw.) are selling?

And don't get me started on concrete floor moisture contents in Ohio!


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

We have basically the same weather as you Pac, if we would wait for the perfect weather conditions for painting exteriors, none could be completed.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Brushman4 said:


> We have basically the same weather as you Pac, if we would wait for the perfect weather conditions for painting exteriors, none could be completed.


Pretty much the same here, if it's not too cold it's too humid.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Brushman4 said:


> We have basically the same weather as you Pac, if we would wait for the perfect weather conditions for painting exteriors, none could be completed.


I know. But how do you think paint companies can weasel out if their paint fails? It's just another thing that's on the back burner if they need it. Trust me. For an example, look at the allowable moisture content of the concrete on the Rustoleum garage floor epoxy and compare it with a high end garage floor epoxy sometime. Rustoleum is something like 5-10%. Some better epoxy brands actually go up to 15-20% BUT! This is almost never mentioned to the purchaser unless it is a commercial or industrial job. Almost ALL DIY box store garage epoxies will fail, for various reasons, but the fact that concrete floors and garage floors in particular almost never go below 10% in Ohio means it is basically a built in failure that no one is ever made aware of. Sometimes you get lucky, but i will always bet on the Ohio weather. Every time. Like betting on a tornado in Oklahoma.


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