# Please help garage door paint sticking



## styles0024 (Sep 12, 2017)

Ok so I screwed up. Really stinks because it was hot, last thing to do to finish a big job. I knew it was too hot so I came back early in morning instead. It was still May but it's the Midwest so I guess it was still to humid. Now the satin exterior paint is sticking. 

It's sticking to the rubber weather sealing strip that touches the garage doors. I have been back to power sand. I sanded so much I stripped off some of the rubber stripping, put a small hole or two in it, but it seemed to work. 

Now months later she says the doors are still sticking. And they are. Not as bad but they are sticking a little and leaving paint on the rubber stripping again. 

SO, OPTIONS?

Hopefully I don't have to replace stripping!

Could I repaint all three doors with a flat paint? Would that solve the problem? If I do that do u just re-sand the rubber stripping to get that sticky satin off? 

Or should I paint the back side of the rubber too with something flat or even a textured finish so it doesn't continue to stick?

A handyman suggested some wax or paraffin rubbed on the door. but I figured that would be noticeable or need to be redone eventually?

Thanks for advice I just want to get it right without spending a ton


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

What brand of paint?


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

Replace the rubber seals. They're cheap and easy to replace. No sense messing around with other "fixes." That will take care of it. Of course you could try spraying some WD-40 on the backside of the stripping or apply some light oil like baby oil to keep them from sticking. I'm guessing you went to BIG ORANGE and bought Behr paint for the doors.


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## Sn0man (Sep 15, 2017)

It's the paint you used. You may have to repaint with a coating that has good block resistance. Not all do. In fact many don't - particularly the lower end paints. 

Not sure what suppliers you use, but PPG has breakthrough which has excellent block resistance, but unfortunately it also has very poor solvent resistance (though that's probably not very important for an overhead door). Dulux has Diamond Exterior which has good block resistance. Or check with your paint rep - every manufacturer should have a good quality coating with good block resistant properties. 

Using WD-40 or vaseline or whatever is only a temporary fix and the problem will just come back again later.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Pics? And have you tried some lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol on the stripping to remove the paint?


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## styles0024 (Sep 12, 2017)

No I used the only paint sherwin sells exterior quarts of, I think duration. Is it really easy to replace rubber? Then do you think recoating w flat would help? Cause if I replace rubber it's not much help if the paint still sticks 


Thanks again!


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## styles0024 (Sep 12, 2017)

Also in line with baby oil or wd40 wouldn't it attract dirt and dust pretty quickly?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

:vs_music:"ask how ask now! Ask Sherman williams!":vs_music:


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

styles0024 said:


> No I used the only paint sherwin sells exterior quarts of, I think duration. Is it really easy to replace rubber? Then do you think recoating w flat would help? Cause if I replace rubber it's not much help if the paint still sticks
> 
> 
> Thanks again!


Take a pic of the "bigger picture" so we can see what context it's in. But from the looks of it, I'd use some solvent to clean it up and wax it. Yes, liquid lubes will attract debris, wax may as well. Sounds like it just didn't cure quite right maybe if it's still sticky? Seems like it should probably be dry and cured by now. You may have more going on than you think, hard to say...
Not sure from the pic how easy it's be to replace the rubber.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Duration Satin? Curing hard? You kill me!!!!


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

The weather stripping was probably installed to close to the garage door to begin with (Too much of the door is sliding along the strip). Adding paint to that would just increase friction.

Take the old strips off, repaint the door, install new weather stripping. Take you 2-3 hours and she will be pleased you went through the effort to make it right.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Maybe the humidty was the big factor, not sure. I painted 2 coats of Duration satin, deep base on a garage door. I painted the whole door, including under the weather stripping where it contacts and had no problems. 

I had pulled the stripping away from the door with masking so the paint coalesced completely for 18-24 hrs.

If you dont replace the weather stripping, then try denatured alcohol clean it. 

If you repaint just try to get a fan or something to help it coalesce completely
before it contacts the stripping. I have a technique for that weather strip pull back thing, even posted it on painttalk. Search "spraying duration satin on a garage door painttalk".


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## Joshua1304 (Jun 10, 2015)

If you purchased exterior paint in a quart you likely bought resilience. Unless regionally duration exterior is available in quarts I suppose. However duration home interior paint is certainly available in quart size and I hope you did not use that on a garage door.. 

Leave weather strip out then respray with Multi-Surface Acrylic Eg/SG or Snap dry SG. In the event you are brushing use Emerald urethane Satin/Sg. If its a lower pigment load, after a day or so replace your seals. For darker colors give it a few extra days.

If you schedule a time SW and talk to the manager/rep and explain the situation they will probably help you out on replacement product.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

I'll second repainting with something low block. You hear this alot but ppg breakthrough, even the 50voc has stupid earlier block resistance. 

It dries quick. It sands up quickly. It doesn't block. It comes in satin.

A few on here claim it doesn't hold up great to repeated wet physical contact (bathroom vanity handle or upper vanity drawer type areas).

Sounds to me that the product you applied blocks. The fact that you cannot remember the product makes troubleshooting difficult. 

Even paints that do offer block resistance may need one, several or 30 days+ to cure to develop that. 

Replacing the weather stripping you damaged while sanding would also be the professional thing to do. None of us are perfect. accidents happen.

It's how you respond and deal with them is what most customers care about.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Could have been a bad batch. I had that issue with Aura exterior one time.


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

To add, repainting the doors with FLAT paint is NOT the answer. Talk about attracting dirt. Flat on doors like that will be an instant "dirt magnet." Also, you normally DO NOT want to paint the rubber strip. Paint does not stick well to the rubber anyway and from your pic, it looks like some bled around to the backside of the rubber strip which, to me, is the cause of the problem. That's why I suggested the baby oil for the BACK SIDE of the rubber seals, the part that actually touches the doors when they go up and down. It would at least give you a fighting chance at keeping them from sticking until the doors are thoroughly cured. I would also try removing the paint that got slopped onto the back of the rubber seals with some Goof-off.

As a last resort, yes, you may have to replace the rubber seals. The rubber is attached to the trim pieces that frame the garage door. They're fairly cheap compared to having to repaint THREE garage doors.


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## Worker Bee (Jun 2, 2017)

Look at it this way. you already had this problem once before. the home owner called you back cause of the same issue. Greasing the weather stripping is a temp fix and may or maynot cause more problems, especially if she calls you back again.

If you do decide to replace the weather stripping, be sure to use the old pieces as a guide to ensure you dont end up with any wierd gaps. Also, the home owner will see you going to such lengths to fix the problem and you will definitely gain big brownie points with her, which in turn could very well lead to even more work....

good luck


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## styles0024 (Sep 12, 2017)

The paint didn't bleed through stripping. That is the paint that stuck from door to the back side of the stripping. 

So consensus is to repaint doors and replace stripping? Never replaced stripping but it shouldn't be hard?


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## Haris (Aug 23, 2017)

styles0024 said:


> The paint didn't bleed through stripping. That is the paint that stuck from door to the back side of the stripping.
> 
> So consensus is to repaint doors and replace stripping? Never replaced stripping but it shouldn't be hard?


I think that's your only option at this point to make the doors look perfect, weather stripping is fairly easy to replace you shouldn't have any issues with it.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

What exactly is "block resistant"? I never heard of the term.


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## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

styles0024 said:


> The paint didn't bleed through stripping. That is the paint that stuck from door to the back side of the stripping.
> 
> So consensus is to repaint doors and replace stripping? Never replaced stripping but it shouldn't be hard?


Run tape along the old stripping on the trim, then remove the strip. Paint the doors and open them up. Remove the tape from the trim and you should have a nice line to follow to install the new stripping.


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

CApainter said:


> What exactly is "block resistant"? I never heard of the term.


Paint-on-paint or paint-on-something won't stick together. Breakthrough is good for that. For example, you can paint a whole batch of doors at the shop, stack them together, and take them back to the job without them all being fused together.

It is a strange term, because the coating is technically not cured, but the claim goes that the outside surface is cured and ready for installation.

I'm sure it was invented in the same room as "paint and primer in one" or "no-prime spackle." Some products do work better than others, though.


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## Sn0man (Sep 15, 2017)

CApainter said:


> What exactly is "block resistant"? I never heard of the term.


Lol - trolling are ya CA? :wink:


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Sn0man said:


> Lol - trolling are ya CA? :wink:


Not at all. I honestly have not heard of the term block resistance. But from Paramountpaints's explanation, "Blocking" appears to be the ability of a coalescing paint to create a non sticking film surface even before the paint film completely cures. This maybe is designed to secure doors shortly after painting.

Some waterborne paints seem to stick whether or not they were left to properly cure before closing onto an adjacent painted surface. But I have used WB DTM's that won't stick to itself after a short period of time. 

When oil based enamels were commonly used, I would make sure the door jam was painted and allowed to dry with fans (if I could) before painting the side of the door that would make contact with the jam. And even then, it was common practice to have the owner leave the door ajar for as long as possible.


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## Sn0man (Sep 15, 2017)

Close. Blocking is the tendency of a coating to adhere to other coatings, or coated materials. It's more common with vinyl resins than acrylic resins, and generally not an issue with other coating types such as alkyd and epoxies. Block resistance then, is the ability of the coating to resist blocking or adhering to other coatings, coated surfaces or other materials.

Now that I think about it, being more of an industrial guy I can see how that term might be unfamiliar to you.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

Ask Sherwin Williams....

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ho...eeling-cracking/sw-article-dir-adhesion-block


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