# Help! Major paint failure!



## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

I have been a professional painter for many years but quit painting due to nerve damage. So I hired another painter to paint my newly finished basement. My walls are smooth texture. I purchased the paint and primer for the painter. It was Benjamin Moore fresh start primer and Benjamin Moore natura paint. I asked the painter if he wipes down the walls to get the dust off before painting and he said "no" I asked him if he would wipe them down anyway and he said " it's not necessary, the paint will envelope the dust and it will bond to the wall." I asked him if he would at least sweep them off and he said " look, i am a professional, I have been doing this for years, it's not needed" So because he wouldn't do it, I swept them off myself with a broom before he started. I swept them very well, brushing down so the dust wouldn't just spread to other walls. He primed the walls and while they were drying I knoticed that the finish was incredibly smooth...so I am thinking he must not have backrolled the primer? Well the next day he painted. After the first coat, I took a quick look around and noticed some major dripping and pooling drips from the celiling. He had not noticed them so I had him wipe off the ones I saw. Then he applied the second coat. Well the next day I came in and was horrified to see drips and runs everywhere. There were roller lines everywhere. He had filled no holes. He had not sanded many areas. Many of the walls are like sandpaper. The paint coverage also seems very thin. Well that wasn't all. It had been drying for 24 hours and I went to pick a tiny piece of lint out of the paint and instead of breaking off like usual, the paint pealed off, it pealed off in a huge strip. So the paint and primer are not sticking. The paint has now cured 60 days and if you put a piece of safe release tape on the wall for 2 seconds and pull it off, the paint will pull completely away from the walls in a bubble. The paint is also elastic instead of being hard and firm. I called the painter and told him that he ruined my walls, he tried to blame the paint saying it had been frozen, but he didn't knotice until after he had applied it. I said "that can not be true. Paint that has been frozen is thick and can be like cottage cheese, you would have noticed right away". What I think happened is that he didn't backroll the primer and then because he was not accustomed to using this kind of paint, which is quite thick, I think he watered it down too much. I asked him if he watered down the paint and he said " never, I never water paint down" . When you pull the paint off the walls the back of the paint is dusty. When you run your finger across the drywall mud that has been revealed after pealing off the paint, it is also slightly dusty and quite soft. Why is the mud still dusty? The primer is also not the least bit inbedded in the mud. It's a clean peal. Have any of you encountered this problem? What do you think has happened to cause this mess? Does anyone know how I can fix this, short of trying to peal paint off of 1000 square feel of walls and ceiling? One painter I talked to suggested priming the walls and recoating with mud and then repainting. Has anyone else tried this or had this problem?
,


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Can we examine this here at Paint Talk?*

I read the previous incarnation of this post on the 1st of December, but was dismayed to find that the thread had been closed. Since the OP has reposted the same problem and since the thread has not yet been closed, I am asking that this thread remain open for comments for a few good reasons.

1. It does appear from reading this post that the OP might have been a professional painter before his nerve damage kicked in. He may not have been as skilled or as diversified as many others here are, but if he once made a living as a painter I would hope that this would qualify him for admittance to Paint Talk. While he has stated that he no longer paints due to nerve damage, he did say that he used to paint. The requirements for admission to PT states that one must state a paint related field or trade that they are involved in. I would hope that this includes those who have retired. I believe that Brushman4 has stated that he is retired. I would not want him to be excluded from PT just because he is no longer active as I appreciate some of his comments and respect what he has to say.

2. The OP seems to have an understanding of what is going on that is far greater than what a DIYer would have, leading me to believe that while he may not have been a painting genius that some here are, he still should be heard as a painter and not as just a DIYer who is looking for professional advice here instead of going to the DIY forum. 

3. I feel that the problems presented here are worth investigating and discussing within this forum rather than at DIY.

Before I get all worked up and start asking for more Ovaltine (more information), I just wanted to put my 2 cents in before the thread is closed again. If the this thread gets closed again anyway, I will abide by the decision of the moderators. 

Joblow, we regularly get new people who are not really involved (or were involved) in a paint related trade trying to come here and get advice from painting contractors rather than going to the DIY forum, so if you have anything more to say to warrant your inclusion here at Paint Talk, speak up sooner than later.

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*More Ovaltine, please*



Joblow said:


> I have been a professional painter for many years but quit painting due to nerve damage. So I hired another painter to paint my newly finished basement. My walls are smooth texture. I purchased the paint and primer for the painter. It was Benjamin Moore fresh start primer and Benjamin Moore natura paint. I asked the painter if he wipes down the walls to get the dust off before painting and he said "no" I asked him if he would wipe them down anyway and he said " it's not necessary, the paint will envelope the dust and it will bond to the wall." I asked him if he would at least sweep them off and he said " look, i am a professional, I have been doing this for years, it's not needed" So because he wouldn't do it, I swept them off myself with a broom before he started. I swept them very well, brushing down so the dust wouldn't just spread to other walls. He primed the walls and while they were drying I knoticed that the finish was incredibly smooth...so I am thinking he must not have backrolled the primer? Well the next day he painted. After the first coat, I took a quick look around and noticed some major dripping and pooling drips from the celiling. He had not noticed them so I had him wipe off the ones I saw. Then he applied the second coat. Well the next day I came in and was horrified to see drips and runs everywhere. There were roller lines everywhere. He had filled no holes. He had not sanded many areas. Many of the walls are like sandpaper. The paint coverage also seems very thin. Well that wasn't all. It had been drying for 24 hours and I went to pick a tiny piece of lint out of the paint and instead of breaking off like usual, the paint pealed off, it pealed off in a huge strip. So the paint and primer are not sticking. The paint has now cured 60 days and if you put a piece of safe release tape on the wall for 2 seconds and pull it off, the paint will pull completely away from the walls in a bubble. The paint is also elastic instead of being hard and firm. I called the painter and told him that he ruined my walls, he tried to blame the paint saying it had been frozen, but he didn't knotice until after he had applied it. I said "that can not be true. Paint that has been frozen is thick and can be like cottage cheese, you would have noticed right away". What I think happened is that he didn't backroll the primer and then because he was not accustomed to using this kind of paint, which is quite thick, I think he watered it down too much. I asked him if he watered down the paint and he said " never, I never water paint down" . When you pull the paint off the walls the back of the paint is dusty. When you run your finger across the drywall mud that has been revealed after pealing off the paint, it is also slightly dusty and quite soft. Why is the mud still dusty? The primer is also not the least bit inbedded in the mud. It's a clean peal. Have any of you encountered this problem? What do you think has happened to cause this mess? Does anyone know how I can fix this, short of trying to peal paint off of 1000 square feel of walls and ceiling? One painter I talked to suggested priming the walls and recoating with mud and then repainting. Has anyone else tried this or had this problem?
> ,


Joblow, I am interested in your problem, but would like more information. If you could give a more detailed description of your painting project from the viewpoint of a professional painting contractor coming on site to look at the job to give an estimate, this would be appreciated. It is easy for us here at PT to take certain things for granted or to assume that things or processes are something other than what has been incompletely described. When insufficient information is given, it is easy for some of us (myself included) to start making comments that are not actually useful because they are based on an incorrect view of what the OP has tried to convey.

Let me get specific. You mention early on that "I hired another painter to paint my newly finished basement." Can you give more details as to how your basement has been "newly finished?"

You then say that "My walls are smooth texture." What do you mean by this? I live in the Chicago area. All new drywall work is smooth. I rarely ever see any new ceilings or walls that are textured in any manner. Virtually all the work I have done in my area regarding any texture is to skim cot it to make it go away. With that in mind, I am picturing in my that your basement ceiling and walls had been drywalled, taped, mudded, sanded and were ready to be primed and painted.

futtyos


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Should have used Guardz from the get go


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Back rolling is soo important on new drywall. If not, the primer just sits on top of all the dust etc.
Also, how is the ventilation /humidity down there. With all that paint being sprayed and improper ventilation, on top of no backrolling and watered down paint. You can be damn sure of improper drying and paint failure.
That really sucks. Buddy needs a backhand if you ask me.
My solution (cheapest one).
- Pole sand the crap out it. Whatever comes off, comes off.
- Apply coat of guardz 
- skim coat any damage. 
- spot prime repairs with acrylic primer.
- Repaint
- Have your painter do it, or threaten to sue him.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Have your painter do it?*



finishesbykevyn said:


> Back rolling is soo important on new drywall. If not, the primer just sits on top of all the dust etc.
> Also, how is the ventilation /humidity down there. With all that paint being sprayed and improper ventilation, on top of no backrolling and watered down paint. You can be damn sure of improper drying and paint failure.
> That really sucks. Buddy needs a backhand if you ask me.
> My solution (cheapest one).
> ...


fbk, while I am not quite sure what should be done to fix Joblow's problem, I am sure that I would not go for the last suggestion on your solution. The painter that was hired is probably the last person who should be working on this job as he is the one who created all this "vandalism" in the first place. And it appears to be vandalism at this point.

futtyos


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

actually this whole scenario sounds quite familiar to me. The painter wants to use SW, and any other product he has to use he sabotages. Happens way, way more often that people think. It's how they protect their hidden mark-ups.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PACman said:


> actually this whole scenario sounds quite familiar to me. The painter wants to use SW, and any other product he has to use he sabotages. Happens way, way more often that people think. It's how they protect their hidden mark-ups.


I sort of doubt that using a SW product has anything to do with it, but I understand you just can’t resist the urge to slip that in there.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

RH said:


> I sort of doubt that using a SW product has anything to do with it, but I understand you just can’t resist the urge to slip that in there.


I'd bet good money on it. It's so common you wouldn't believe. In California when i worked for SW it was Frazee. Nothing would compare to Frazee. Here in SW's back yard? All the time.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

futtyos said:


> finishesbykevyn said:
> 
> 
> > Back rolling is soo important on new drywall. If not, the primer just sits on top of all the dust etc.
> ...


Ya, your probably right futtyos. I just got excited and was looking to have his painter punished in some way..🤣


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Don't send a wrecking crew out to fix wha they broke*



finishesbykevyn said:


> Ya, your probably right futtyos. I just got excited and was looking to have his painter punished in some way..🤣


I could be all wrong, but here is a story:

I used to work for a realtor who sold foreclosed homes. The bank sent their winterization crew out to winterize a 1925 brick bungalow in Cicero, IL. The main floor toilet had s__t piled a few inches above the rim and the basment toilet had brown water in it. After the crew did their winterization, the main floor toilet still had the same pile of s__t, but now it had pink RV fluid poured over it. The basement toilet water was now peuce colored (peuce is a combination of brown and purple).

The realtor had me call the bank to give a report. I told the bank that they needed to send their crew out to do a proper winterization job. Big mistake! The "winterized" the place that fall and in late winter a buyer wanted to see how the plumbing worked. The plumber called me 20 inutes after he started de-winterizing the place to tell me that there were freeze leaks in the plumbing right over his head. Maybe I am being a bit too histrionic, but there it is.

futtyos


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

Thank you for your replys. I will try and explain the situation further. The walls were brand new sheetrock, muded and taped. Where I live, we have a few different wall mud textures that people use. Holy smooth is one, but the most popular right now is completely smooth walls with no texture. My walls are smooth, so there is no texture for the paint to hold onto. So the Paint peels off just like fruit leather, in big sheets, with no adheason in most areas I have tested. The primer did not inbed into the mud at all. The paint has dried but it hasn't really hardened. It is very elastic and is exactly like fruit leather. Because I did not stay and watch him doing the job, I am having to guess about what he did exactly, So what may sound like inexperence on my part is really just me guessing what happened, because in all of my experience painting I have never seen anything like this. But I am the type of painter that goes by the book and goes to extreme measures to avoid messes like this. So I can only guess what happened. However there are some things that are obvious. So I will try and give my best guess as to what happened and tell me if this sounds right. I supplied the paint and primer because I did not trust the Painter to purchase what I paid for. So I picked up the primer and paint. I live quite far from the paint store, it's about 50 mins one way. I told the painter, "If you need more paint or primer, just let me know and I will go get it.". So he primed the walls. I went to check out the job after he was done priming and noticed that the walls were super smooth. He had sprayed them, but I saw no back roll texture at all. So it looked to me like he didn't bother to back roll the primer. So the next day he came to paint. After he got started, He called me and told me he was going to need 12 more gallons of paint. I was surprised that he thought he needed that much more but I told him I would go get it. He called me a bit later and told me that now he only needed 6 gallons. "6? I said. You needed 12 and now you only need 6?" At this point I am wondering what this guy has been smoking. Why 12 and now only 6? So I head out to pick up 6 gallons. I bring him the 6 gallons and then he tells me he needs 4 more. So I call and order 4 more and after the paint was ordered, mixed and on the delivery truck, he runs out to tell me that he doesn't need anymore paint after all. I told him it was too late, they had already mixed it and it was on it's way. Sooooo what the heck did this guy do? I am thinking that he didn't want to wait for me to bring more paint, so he watered it down and ruined it. I am thinking he did the same thing with the primer as well, basically ruining it. I don't know for sure if that is what he did, but that's my thought. I would appreciate your thoughts on that. I can not imagine that not back rolling alone would be enough reason for it to not have stuck. And then the fact that the paint hasn't fully hardened after almost 90 days of cure time. So my next question is...How on Earth can I fix this? I tried skim coating it with mud, thinking a new layer if mud might be a good option....but it wasn't. When bumped, it peals off in sheets with the rest of the paint. Recoating it with another layer of paint didn't work either. It's just a thicker layer of pealing Paint. There are no moisture problems in the house. I had painted one room in the basement myself, with the same kind of primer and paint and had no issues. I can not imagine trying to sand through two layers of latex paint and primer coat to get down to bare wall considering we have 1000 square feet of walls and ceiling that would have to be sanded. At this point we are going to have to sue him, but before I can do that, I need to know what it will take to fix it right. At this point, I am thinking that the only real fix is total removal of the drywall and starting over. Thoughts?


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

Also, I live in the desert.We don't have many issues with humidity here. He did paint before a rain storm but it was a short storm and several days of warm, dry weather after that.


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

futtyos. You are right, I would never invite the idiot painter back to attempt to "fix" this mess. He did a lot of other idiot things that I haven't mentioned. I wouldn't trust him with finger paints in kindergarten class.


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

PACman- Are you saying that there are painters who will intentionally ruin the paint if it isn't the kind they like to use? Or are you saying that they ruin it inadvertently because they are not accustomed to it, like say ..thinning it down because they don't like the thickness?


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Before drawing any conclusions as to the reasons for failure, take moisture content readings on the drywall at several different points of failure. This might provide you with some answers.


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I'd say the majority of us here do things the right way with new drywall. We get the dust off, we use a quality drywall primer and quality paint, we sand when necessary and remove dust. That being said, those are things that in all honesty protect the paint companies. I know I've skipped steps before and my paint job came out just fine. The only thing I think your painter could have done to produce such disastrous results is thinning the paint TOO MUCH, on top of dusty walls, and, even then, I can't imagine it coming off in sheets. Post some pictures so we can see what you are seeing.

At this point, if it is as bad as you describe, it's time to tear it all out, put in new drywall, and HIRE A REAL PAINTER. It sounds like you had trust issues from the get-go with this guy. You need to meet with him TODAY, discuss the issue, and have him get his insurance agent out there NOW so you can begin the process of making a claim. That's all you can do. We are human, we make mistakes. This "painter" made some sort of mistake causing the problems. Deal with it NOW.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Have seen two major drywall tear outs on new construction due to dusted joint compound, alkyds, pva’s, and acrylics not adhering. Drywall contractor added excessive amounts of dish “detergent”, compromising the PVA polymer in the compound making it go brittle and chalky, also affecting adhering of coatings. Could rub the flats to bare tape with palm of hand. Liability fell on the drywall contractor, not the painter.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Alchemy Redux said:


> Have seen two major drywall tear outs on new construction due to dusted joint compound, alkyds, pva’s, and acrylics not adhering. Drywall contractor added excessive amounts of dish “detergent”, compromising the PVA polymer in the compound making it go brittle and chalky, also affecting adhering of coatings. Could rub the flats to bare tape with palm of hand. Liability fell on the drywall contractor, not the painter.


I've seen the tapers load the mud up with copious amounts of dish soap and water to make it easier to flow out of their taping equipment. You knew it was bad when you loaded up your roller with primer and it started to pull off the mud almost immediately. Another no-no was them embedding the tape with topping instead of regular joint compound.:vs_mad:


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Brushman4 said:


> I've seen the tapers load the mud up with copious amounts of dish soap and water to make it easier to flow out of their taping equipment. You knew it was bad when you loaded up your roller with primer and it started to pull off the mud almost immediately. Another no-no was them embedding the tape with topping instead of regular joint compound.:vs_mad:


One taping contractor my way loads up Rapid Coat, brittle enough as it is, with copious amounts of water and soap. I need to wear a hard hat when priming ceilings behind him, the stuff pulling off in huge chunks!


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

So, again I painted one of the new rooms myself, (to see if my nerve damage could handle painting the whole thing). The room I painted is fine. It was the same mud job, same sheetrock job. One area that is peeling very badly, is only 4 inches away from the wall I painted that is fine. So unlikely that it was the mud. I think I will do the moisture test just to be certain, but I don't believe that is the issue because again, the one room I painted is fine. The other two rooms that we're finished by the builder are also fine. It's only the areas he painted that peal off. My thought is that he didn't want to wait for me to bring more paint so he thinned it to make it go further. He even told me that I took too long bringing the paint.So my plan is to sue him in small claims to try and avoid dealing with the idiot painter. A lawyer I spoke with told me that insurance agencys won't usually pay up unless you sue them. Has this been anyone else's experience? You are right, I had some doubts before he started. He is difficult to deal with. He came up with every excuse you could think of for the mess he made. So I would rather avoid dealing with him directly. I can't think of a good solution to fix this. If I did go to his insurance agency, what is the likelihood I could get them to cover total tear out and new sheetrock installed and painted? Everyone I talk to wants to try and do a quicky fix, but every quicky fix I have tried has failed. What's the best way to go after this guy? Here is a link to a video showing how it's pealing.


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

https://youtu.be/n9yl7-HZo_I video of paint pealing


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Alchemy Redux said:


> One taping contractor my way loads up Rapid Coat, brittle enough as it is, with copious amounts of water and soap. I need to wear a hard hat when priming ceilings behind him, the stuff pulling off in huge chunks!


I'm feeling your pain, we used to show what was happening when we primed the new drywall to the super's from the GC's, they would just smirk and walk away.

And I'm talking about some of the biggest GC's, like Turner and Pepper, they would just tell me, "deal with it", WTF.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Is it peeling right down to bare drywall, or just to primer? Also, which fresh start did you use? (There's a couple different ones.) Curious, why choose Fresh Start for bare drywall? It's expensive , and more of a quick drying all purpose primer. And yes it should definitely be back rolled. You could just use the ultra spec drywall primer. 
Anyhow, I'm with the other boys. Sue to have all drywall removed and start over..


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

It looks like you need a thinner primer that will penetrate the mud a little more, or Gardz.

I dont think the paint was thinned. If so, it wouldnt be able to come off in sheets. I think the paint was applied before the primer was cured, and the primer was too thick to begin with. I has to be a primer to mud adhesion issue.


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

I used the same primer and paint on the room that I painted myself with no issues. The primer is Fresh Start Natura primer. Yes, it is pealing all the way down to the mud with no primer inbedded in the mud. It is a clean peal. I think he probably thinned the primer as well as the paint. When pealed off, it feels very thin for two coats of high quality paint and primer. The other thing that makes me think he thinned it is that there are drips and runs everywhere! https://youtu.be/n9yl7-HZo_I


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

Oh and the primer had dried 24 hours before he painted it.


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

Wow, the only time I've seen a failure like that was when someone painted over a glossy surface without sanding it first, and when a painting contractor was forced to paint over dusty/still wet drywall mud for some McDonald's restaurants. Unbelievable.

I'm with Woodco in that it doesn't appear that the paint was thinned down too much. It's coming off in rubbery sheets so it looks like the topcoats weren't the problem. It almost has to be an issue with dust on the surface and then with him spraying and not back-rolling, well, the paint just never stuck.

As for insurance, I've had a few claims against me and normally an adjuster comes onsite, or, at the very least, has the painter send him pics of the problem. An assessment is made and a check is written to you. The last claim I had went that way. Got some paint chips in a pipe organ at a church and it cost the church $1500 to have the pipes cleaned out. Adjuster wrote a check on the spot.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Do you have any actual evidence that he thinned the primer or paint?


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Peel Start!*



Joblow said:


> https://youtu.be/n9yl7-HZo_I video of paint pealing


It might be nice if you could peel everything off! What I would do is see if you can peel one wall, then apply a coat of Gardz, next day paint and see how it turns out.

I can't recall having paint and primer peel off on any of my jobs except one in the early 1980s where I scraped bathroom walls almost completely down to plaster, then primed with PVC primer. I ended up scraping off every sq inch of the PVC! :wallbash:

My favorite procedure with new drywall is 2 solid coats of Gardz. The first coat will soak in and bond all the surface dust to the drywall so that the dust is now part of the wall. 2nd coat is for even sheen for eggshell and up.

The only drawback I see with Gardz is that it is not white and imperfections cannot be seen when pointing up. A GC I do painting for will not let me use Gardz for this reason. When I started working for him he used Kilz2 over skim-coated plaster and new drywall. I was able to persuade him to step up to Zinsser 123, but that is about as far as he wants to go.

When I roll on the first coat of 123 onto this GC's new drywall and skim coated plaster, the going is slow and I can feel how the 123 is being worked into the surface. A first coat of Gardz is also slow going, though not as tedious as with 123. A 2nd coat on either goes like a hot knife through butter as the surface has been reasonably sealed and the 2nd coat just glides over the 1st coat without much water being sucked into the dry surface. The 1st coat of paint goes really easy over 2 coats of either 123 or Gardz.

I can see the reasoning of my GC in wanting to get a coat of white primer onto new drywall and skim coats as it is far easier to see dings, blemishes and imperfections with a nice, uniform coat of white to show up shadows while closely going over the surface with a spotlight. Sometimes I have found so many dings to point up in my GC's work that I have to think it would be far easier to roll a solid coat of Gardz over skim coats, then skim coat the whole area again instead of taking all the time to look for dings with a spotlight, then prime with 123 and take a 2nd look with the spotlight to find any dings that were missed.

I know I do things a little different than most here. I also probably do less work than most of those here, so anything I say has to be taken with a grain of non-skid sand. I just think that sometimes it is a best practice to Gardz new drywall first as there is only one chance to apply a first coat of anything to a new surface - with a sometime exception. Gardz can soak through cheap contractor's paint and bond it to the surface below. When this is the case it can be seen similarly to what is seen when water is poured onto a dry white t-shirt or other absorbent cloth. The wet areas will appear darker than the dry. I once had to paint several new MDF doors that were factory primed. My gut told me that the primer was cheap and would "wet" when painted, possibly causing problems. I applied a thin coat of Gardz and the primed surface darkened as the Gardz wetted the surface. The top coats of paint went on very pleasantly.

Enough diarrhea of the keyboard. If it were me, I would try to completely peel a small wall, Gardz and paint and see what happens.

futtyos

P.S. If you ever get some surfaces to paint that have been 2 coated with Gardz, I would be curious as to how the easiness of it affects your nerve pain. You might also want to check out cranial sacral therapy.

P.P.S. Thanks for following up as well as for posting a video of what you are going through!


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

So, not every wall peals that easily. Some of it comes off in patches. If it all came off that easy, maybe I would just hand peal it and reprime and paint. But we're talking 1000 square feet plus ceiling and most coming off in small patches. Is it possible to belt sand 3 layers of laytex paint off? Would that even make sense or should I demand total tear off and replace? I am at a loss of how to fix this right.


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## Joblow (Dec 1, 2018)

So, not every wall peals that easily. Some walls come off in patches. If it all came off that easy, it would make sense to just hand peal it all off and reprime and paint. But we're talking 1000 square feet, plus ceiling and most coming off in small patches. All the mudded areas come off in sheets. Is it possible to belt sand through 3 layers of laytex primer and paint? Would that even make sense or should I just demand total tear off and replace? I am at a loss of how to fix this properly. One area that we pealed off completely, we reprimed with the same kind of primer. (Rolled on) and it stuck just fine.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I think you know your only option. And yes it's gonna sting a little.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I think you know your only option. And yes it's gonna sting a little.


fbk, I'm glad you said it!






fearyos


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