# BIN or Latex Primer First?



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

This is a drywall patch to old plaster required because of a hot water leak. Most of the water stained plaster was removed, but in a couple of places it was more practical to leave the intact plaster in place, though stained. I plan to Put a couple coats of BIN on these spots and to seal off the new drywall with a latex primer. My question is, would you apply the latex primer first and then BIN the stains or vice versa? What say you PT'ers? Also has anyon tried Zinsser's "synthetic shellac"? Saw it on the shelf next to the original, which I bought.


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

I love BIN for a lot of reasons, but not on plaster, especially on patchwork on plaster. I'd choose coverstain or odourless personally, then proceed with whatever top coat.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Tested out some synthetic shellac from SW last week on water stains on an oceanfront home. It did well in all but one leak it had to be treated three times to stop that one.


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## Happee_grrl (Feb 9, 2014)

I used a good acrylic latex primer on my patches in the last job I did...I didn't use BIN shellac. (Although I love the stuff.) Two coats of paint, and it looked great.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Whether on damaged water stained drywall or plaster, I've always applied a stain blocker prior to ever making any joint compound repairs, with either hot or regular mud. Sometimes there would be slight stain bleed through but not much. 

I do like using Gardz now on any plaster repairs prior to patching. But, at some point I have to still use a stain blocker. I prefer BIN pigmented shellac for stain killing.

I can't imagine anyone here would ever patch over a water or stained damaged surface without first applying at least a primer coat on the dried, and debris free, damaged area. At least that's what I was taught was a "best practice".


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

That's a good point of priming before mudding CApainter, that's what I like to do also.
Rogue Bristle I think coverstain oil alone could cover the stain and the drywall mud all at the same time, that would be my main suggestion.

I'm not sure how well shellac performs over mud, (_chances are it would peel or crack in the future_). 

Thinking my way through this, latex priming first so it bonds well to the mud, then shellac if you need it. 

As for synthetic shellac, it sure didn't block tannin bleed on my cabinets even after multiple coats, and it doesn't sand very effectively. It does act as a high build primer though.


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## oldccm (Jan 23, 2013)

In your case either or is acceptable but I would personally go bin first with latex after as sometimes the bin can 'flash' through top coats


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## Roamer (Jul 5, 2010)

Coverstain before any patching to prevent stains from damaging the patches or having stains reappear at a later date. Plus, the primed plaster/drywall is a better surface for the patching compound to bond to. Be sure and wait until the primer is completely dry and cured before patching.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

oldccm said:


> In your case either or is acceptable but I would personally go bin first with latex after as sometimes the bin can 'flash' through top coats



Yeah, gotta be carefull spot priming with Bin. Especially on a slick surface like plaster. I would probably use the latex primer under, and over any Bin spots. Or just use Coverstain.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Roamer said:


> Coverstain before any patching to prevent stains from damaging the patches or having stains reappear at a later date. Plus, the primed plaster/drywall is a better surface for the patching compound to bond to. Be sure and wait until the primer is completely dry and cured before patching.


I would prefer using the Coverstain also, since it's a whole lot easier to apply then BIN. But sometimes the time constraints and ambient temperatures don't allow for the thourough drying necessary with Cover stain. Especially when patching over with a waterborn product like mud.

The BIN just dries up and blocks the stains really fast, allowing a rapid followup with patching.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

In hindsight, it would have been better to BIN before patching.

Reviewing the can it does say that it's for drywall, but my instincts are as others have suggested, that it won't perform well in the long run over mud. I do think it will be fine over the somewhat glossy, painted plaster.

My thoughts were to latex prime everything, then hit the water spots with two coats bin, and perhaps another of latex over the Binned spots before paint. I have had mixed results with cover stain and water marks and it is a little longer drying, whereas BIN always performs and you can be recoating after 15 min.

Thanks everyone for you replys, and I guess I won't be buying the synthetic BIN for a while, though the price of shellac is shooting through the roof! It was almost $12 for a spray can, which I left behind.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Cut the rock out. Stop fooling around.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

TheRogueBristle said:


> This is a drywall patch to old plaster required because of a hot water leak. Most of the water stained plaster was removed, but in a couple of places it was more practical to leave the intact plaster in place, though stained. I plan to Put a couple coats of BIN on these spots and to seal off the new drywall with a latex primer. My question is, would you apply the latex primer first and then BIN the stains or vice versa? What say you PT'ers? Also has anyon tried Zinsser's "synthetic shellac"? Saw it on the shelf next to the original, which I bought.


why?


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

My main plaster person second or third generation plaster. uses Bin a lot in all patch first if no more than to lock down the loose garbage. Doesn't matter if it is plaster or drywall
David


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Because the extra three minutes it will take to recoat it is well worth the insurance that the stain won't come back?


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

TheRogueBristle said:


> This is a drywall patch to old plaster required because of a hot water leak. Most of the water stained plaster was removed, but in a couple of places it was more practical to leave the intact plaster in place, though stained. I plan to Put a couple coats of BIN on these spots and to seal off the new drywall with a latex primer. My question is, would you apply the latex primer first and then BIN the stains or vice versa? What say you PT'ers? Also has anyon tried Zinsser's "synthetic shellac"? Saw it on the shelf next to the original, which I bought.


Gripper, then your top coats


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

A little cha cha cha with the coverstain rattle, whip up some mud, under/over, get paid, rock n roll baby!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I've had good luck with the Zinsser smart prime, also labeled as 123 plus, for water stains. So if you want a wb option that's a good one. For loose stuff gardZ is great. I'm a big fan of BIN, didn't read all the posts so I haven't educated myself on why some here are not.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Damon T said:


> I've had good luck with the Zinsser smart prime, also labeled as 123 plus, for water stains. So if you want a wb option that's a good one. For loose stuff gardZ is great. I'm a big fan of BIN, didn't read all the posts so I haven't educated myself on why some here are not.


I have a lot of acoustic ceiling tiles I have to maintain. They're definitely great for indicating leaks in the space above a suspended ceiling. And if it's not water stains from a roof leak, its a water stain from a fitting in the HVAC's hot or cold water loop.

For the tiles I can't change, for example where a fire alarm or speaker for the PA was installed, I have to paint. BIN is just not acceptable given the odor, even though it dissipates quickly. Do you think the Zinsser Smart Prime would seal those stains?


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Yes I have sealed some ugly water stains with it. You might want to hit it. Let dry overnight, hit again if necessary then topcoat. Always best to dry overnight before topcoat to let it lock the stain in. But you probably already know that.


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