# SW paints



## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Wondering who here uses a lot of SW products on a day to day basis and what lines they like. We've been using them for a while now, but as i've always been more of a GP/BM guy i'm finding it difficult to pin down which of their product lines to use where, particularly at this time of year as we switch from painting parkades to painting office buildings. In other words, i'm not well versed on their interior paint lines. 

Their ASE seems to be a decent product for trim and such - I like how it sprays and lays out smooth. We just used about 5000 gallons of Solo on a parkade which also seemed to be decent. I'm not too impressed with the Promar 200. I have no experience with A100 or Emerald. 

Which of their paints do you guys like, and why?


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

Cashmere is the way to go. Smooth application,silky finish,decent price. I dont like the Promar 200 either.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

941owassard said:


> Cashmere is the way to go. Smooth application,silky finish,decent price. I dont like the Promar 200 either.


Smells like diesel. No zero VOC etc.


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

I'm a Cashmere guy. CHB for ceilings.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

I like super paint and eminence for ceilings. But really want to try the new cashmere with the pearl.


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

I use promar 200 all the time....sher scrub is good too but only comes in certain sheens....solo for trim.....

Sher scrub is a few bucks cheaper and I think I'm going to start using it more considering all the money I waste on commercial jobs. It makes sense


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Interior:
Ceilings: Promar 400 flat
Trim: high performance industrial acrylic or All Surface Enamel. 
Walls: promar 200 or Duration interior depending on colour/job cost

Exterior:
stucco/wood siding: A100
exterior trim: Duration Satin or Emerald


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Interior:
> Ceilings: Promar 400 flat
> Trim: high performance industrial acrylic or All Surface Enamel.
> Walls: promar 200 or Duration interior depending on colour/job cost
> ...


Why such a difference on siding to trim ?


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

richmondpainting said:


> Why such a difference on siding to trim ?


Fair Question. I have had Duration bubble on siding before, where as I have had no issues with A100 bubbling on siding. Further, I have had no issue with Duration bubbling on trim.

Obviously there could have been other issues- moisture, dust etc... but A100 is a good and affordable product for that application.


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Fair Question. I have had Duration bubble on siding before, where as I have had no issues with A100 bubbling on siding. Further, I have had no issue with Duration bubbling on trim.
> 
> Obviously there could have been other issues- moisture, dust etc... but A100 is a good and affordable product for that application.


I would just think if your gunna go with a100 you would all the way around...


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

richmondpainting said:


> I would just think if your gunna go with a100 you would all the way around...


That is just like your opinion man


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I love Cashmere for walls, you can't go wrong with either the flat enamel or low luster. 

For trim either proclassic or cashmere medium luster.

Ceilings - either property solutions or masterhide. I've never really understand the reasoning behind using more expensive paint on ceilings. If I were to use a better paint I'd go with pm200 rather than 400 simply because the flat has a lower sheen rating.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Promar 200 zero

A100

Ase


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I've been a loyal user of SW's SuperPaint, interior and exterior. It's just one of those workhorse paints that does what it's supposed to do nearly every single time. Is it as good as Cashmere or Duration? Probably not, but you always know what to expect with SuperPaint. No coverage problems, no learning curve on application……just a solid paint all around.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Interesting that some here like the Promar 200. I just don't like how it spreads or lays out. And the hide leaves me wanting. 

Then again, I haven't actually gotten into a brush with it myself, just been watching our field guys work with it and they have lots of complaints. Might have to don my whites today and see what I can do with it.


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

Rcon said:


> Interesting that some here like the Promar 200. I just don't like how it spreads or lays out. And the hide leaves me wanting.
> 
> Then again, I haven't actually gotten into a brush with it myself, just been watching our field guys work with it and they have lots of complaints. Might have to don my whites today and see what I can do with it.


Ever try sher scrub ? I think that's what I'm going to switch to...Ive used it a few times but on residentials I use a lot of datin which they don't offer...but commercial is a lot of eggshell so I think its a good move..


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

SW


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Fair Question. I have had Duration bubble on siding before, where as I have had no issues with A100 bubbling on siding. Further, I have had no issue with Duration bubbling on trim.
> 
> Obviously there could have been other issues- moisture, dust etc... but A100 is a good and affordable product for that application.


For exteriors I like Duration satin but on trim it looks to flat and it seems to attract dirt easily.Absorbs it like a sponge.Personally I like Marquee semi-gloss on trim not only dirt resistant but also for its color retention.:yes:


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Just used promar 400 zero on a blow and go. 3 coats to cover a red accent wall.
You get what you pay for


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

Bender said:


> Just used promar 400 zero on a blow and go. 3 coats to cover a red accent wall.
> You get what you pay for


I tried 400 flat a while back and the touch ups we did looked horrible. ....stuck right out


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Commercial: 
Walls- sherscrub
Ceilings-CHB
Trim- super paint

Residential:
Walls- cashmere 
Ceilings- cashmere or CHB (depending on the caliber of home)
Trim- proclassic

200 and Duration may be two of the worst products ever developed for painting. I have used both...I try not to.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

epretot said:


> Commercial:
> Walls- sherscrub
> Ceilings-CHB
> Trim- super paint
> ...


I don't mind duration interior, not so much on exteriors. 

I've had the opposite experience with emerald. Love the exterior paint but the interior is too stinky for my liking.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Superpaint and Cashmere on the inside walls
Solo for trim/doors
Isowall for ceilings, southwestern product, dead flat $12/gal

Superpaint for exterior 
Duration for trim sometimes


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Solo sucks too.
What a ropey, flashy mess 
I don't mind spraying it but...


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## richmondpainting (Feb 24, 2012)

All the mixed reviews are kinda puzzling to me...


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## pkrieg (Oct 28, 2013)

Residential

Walls-cashmere or duration Satin
Trim- pro classic
Ceilings-CHB


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Interior 

Ceilings Promar 400 Flat
Walls Promar 200 Zero
Trim All surface enamel

Exterior

A-100 walls and trim is our standard,
Emerald only when trim work it's requested.


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## MKap (Sep 11, 2010)

Interior (mostly use BM) but when using SW on mid-lower end jobs I use:

Walls - Cashmere or Superpaint 
Ceilings - Masterhide
Trim - Superpaint

For exterior I only use SW unless spec'd for BM or something else. 

Siding - Woodscapes Solid (best product they have for siding IMO)
Trim - Duration or Superpaint satin. Duration is good when you add a little water when it gets above 80 degrees or painting in direct sun. Superpaint is great for azek, shutters, gutters and doors. 
I also like the DTM when theres a good amount of metal to do. Just got a free gallon of Hyrdogloss to try. Anyone ever use that?


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Smells like diesel. No zero VOC etc.


I've never smelled anything like "diesel" with the Cashmere. And as far as the VOC ah who cares.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

941owassard said:


> I've never smelled anything like "diesel" with the Cashmere. And as far as the VOC ah who cares.


Me niether :no:


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

Ceilings- Masterhide (used to use PM400 flat)
Walls- Cashmere or Emerald. Duration in kitchens and baths.
Trim- ProClassic Waterborne Alkyd.

Siding- WoodScapes 
SuperPaint on repaints.
Duration on new construction.
Trim- SuperPaint.
Decks- anything but Sherwin Williams products.:whistling2:

I like both the MetaLatex and DTM for metal.
The H & C Concrete Stain is o.k. for the few garage/porch floors we do.

Anybody tried the SuperDeck from DuckBack?
SW sales rep pushing that for a big exterior we hope to get for next year.
Customer wants a 'Cape Cod' look to the shakes.
Previously applied Cabot Bleaching Oil AND some solid stain on another section. Am bidding on stripping and neutralizing the whole thing and starting from scratch with the Cabot product with added M-1 mildewcide.
SW rep is pushing to use the SuperDeck semi-trans in a weathered grey.
Claims DuckBack has solved the VOC issue with oil products and 'this will get the job done'. Am very skeptical at this point.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I've found Pro Mar 200 zero VOC covers well. The ASE is great on exterior doors as it blocks hard and fast so you don't stick to the weather stripping. Outside siding I use resilience because its cheaper and just as good IMHO as duration.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Gibberish45 said:


> I've found Pro Mar 200 zero VOC covers well. The ASE is great on exterior doors as it blocks hard and fast so you don't stick to the weather stripping. Outside siding I use resilience because its cheaper and just as good IMHO as duration.


I agree. I always spec ASE for doors. Even when all the trim is done in Duration, I still have colour made in ASE for doors.


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

ProMar 400 flat for ceilings
Promar 200 zero for walls 
Pro classic or solo for trim
ASE is a great product, but when used on trim it would crack on the caulked joints


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

STAR said:


> ProMar 400 flat for ceilings
> Promar 200 zero for walls
> Pro classic or solo for trim
> ASE is a great product, but when used on trim it would crack on the caulked joints


Use good quality caulking, it only cracks with the cheaper stuff!


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Rcon said:


> Which of their paints do you guys like, and why?



I use Sherwin almost exclusively, but then again that's the only high end paint store we have here really. I like the stuff, just not for stains/wood so much unless it's their exterior stains for fences etc (aka paint).

Anyway: We spray almost EVERYTHING, so rolling for us is very uncommon unless it's a touch-up problem/wall redo.

Interior: 
* Eco Select Zero VOC. 
(It's basically a version of Pro Mar 400 with a much cheaper price tag, I actually think it's better in all honesty).

* Hi-Build Primer (hides sanding scratches from mudders, etc.)

* A-100 for most exterior painting, sometimes Duracraft 
(depending on price point. A-100 is more expensive, marginally, but both will do a fine job.)

* Trim/Painted Doors etc: Solo or Pro Classic. Solo levels better and isn't as touchy as Pro Classic. PC seems to tack up faster. When dried both seem to be about the same, I don't really see a difference in feel or look. 
*** Note: Solo can be used for exterior whereas PC can not. ***

Hope that helps.


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Use good quality caulking, it only cracks with the cheaper stuff!


I was using Dap when I had this problem with ASE. Strange thing is it doesn't happen with other trim paints. What have you successfully used or what do you recommend for interior trim work with ASE?


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

STAR said:


> I was using Dap when I had this problem with ASE. Strange thing is it doesn't happen with other trim paints. What have you successfully used or what do you recommend for interior trim work with ASE?



Try the sherwin caulking 1100. Power house. My rep says that brand won't crack.. But I still find you have to leave it overnight at a minimum to avoid cracking


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Painter-Aaron said:


> Try the sherwin caulking 1100. Power house. My rep says that brand won't crack.. But I still find you have to leave it overnight at a minimum to avoid cracking


Yes. My SW rep said use 1100a to be safe, but that 950a should be okay. There is not much of a price difference when you buy a case, and why wouldn't you use the best anyway?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Big stretch doesnt crack. Hard to tool tho.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

TJ Paint said:


> Big stretch doesnt crack. Hard to tool tho.



Big stretch is good stuff and no, it won't crack when it's cured. But It is bad to crack out if you paint over it too soon. It's about the slowest curing caulk out there. 7 days dry time for oil top coat! 

That's why I don't use it very often, I'm too impatient.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

exterior:Sealer & Super Paint Satin
Interior:
Ceilings:Master Hide
Walls:200 0 egg shell
Trim: Pro Classic Semi Gloss
Almost exclusively and never have ANY problems or call backs


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> exterior:Sealer & Super Paint Satin
> Interior:
> Ceilings:Master Hide
> Walls:200 0 egg shell
> ...


Is the superpaint in the new tinting? How do you like the change?


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

They don't do superpaint exterior much anymore in Canada, or at least in Vancouver BC. I think they are pushing Resilience as well. I am not super happy with Resilience in comparison to A100. The latter touches up great and the former flashes a lot, even in flat.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> Is the superpaint in the new tinting? How do you like the change?


Don't know anything about new tinting?? We have a big SW pro show on Tuesday. I will ask a rep about it then. I love pro shows. I'll be droppin alot of coin on sundries and basic stock items


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> exterior:Sealer & Super Paint Satin
> Interior:
> Ceilings:Master Hide
> Walls:200 0 egg shell
> ...


Me too, except lids. Why master hide instead of PM200?


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I would think because Masterhide is less costly and works well for ceilings. Notice I did not say Aaron is cheap lol.

No point is spending more on a higher tier product if a less costly one adequately does what you need.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> Don't know anything about new tinting?? We have a big SW pro show on Tuesday. I will ask a rep about it then. I love pro shows. I'll be droppin alot of coin on sundries and basic stock items


Yeah, think they use wb tints now instead of glycol. At least they did here for A100.


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I had my first experience with ProMar 200 O VOC today on an interior commercial job for an old friend. The owner wanted to cover the existing antique white walls with a very deep, bright blue flat (party supply store) along the top 4' of the perimeter walls.

Using an UltraDeep base, it covered easily in two coats. It reminded me of when I used the Color Accents product years ago, so I'm happy with it so far.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Pm 200 0 voc is a good wall paint.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Pm 200 0 voc is a good wall paint.


It is not amazing in off whites, but then what is?


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Bender said:


> Me too, except lids. Why master hide instead of PM200?


cheaper


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## wje (Apr 11, 2009)

We stopped using them about 4 years ago, after an abnormal amount of skins in EVERY gallon I purchased. I am not talking one or two, I am talking about 40 little skins/roller full. 

This would not get me fired up normally, but when you go through the amount of paint I Was going through and having to strain every gallon, it really slows down production. 

Also the closest store to me was 60 KM away, and the straw that broke the camels back was a 3 hour wait time on a SINGLE gallon of paint that was to be colour matched. I needed the paint, and at the time as a good customer I was waiting for the gallon.. I felt embarrassed for them at that point. 

I went back last year for 2 gallons, and they looked at me and smiled when I went to check out and said FYI your prices went up.. ($60 a gallon at my price) so I will never go back no matter how good of a product they may offer.


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## 97audia4 (Sep 10, 2013)

wait you guys still can get full gallons of SW paint?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> cheaper


You go cheap on the governor's friend's house?

You have balls.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Believe it or not they actually spec'd master hide for ceilings & wall in there!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> Believe it or not they actually spec'd master hide for ceilings & wall in there!


Who did?


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

The builder and H O!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> The builder and H O!


For a repainr?!


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

No..the Guvna's friends house is a new build


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

When you compare products at the same price, Ben moore is a far superior product. In every category from Aura vs Emerald and all the way down the list.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Zoomer said:


> When you compare products at the same price, Ben moore is a far superior product. In every category from Aura vs Emerald and all the way down the list.


I tend to agree for the most part. Wish BM had a more availability in my market. In PA I used a healthy mix of both which was nice.


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Believe it or not they actually spec'd master hide for ceilings & wall in there!


Aaron, have you guys brushed and rolled Masterhide much? I ask because with some high end properties I've worked with, they spec'd Masterhide for everything too and when rolling, it seemed to splatter like nothing I'd ever seen. 

And that was using a variety of covers, including my standby, the Purdy Colossus (3/8" or 1/2" I can't remember).

Thanks!

Jeremy


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Nothing cheaper than superpaint satin for exterior.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Masterpiece said:


> Aaron, have you guys brushed and rolled Masterhide much? I ask because with some high end properties I've worked with, they spec'd Masterhide for everything too and when rolling, it seemed to splatter like nothing I'd ever seen.
> 
> And that was using a variety of covers, including my standby, the Purdy Colossus (3/8" or 1/2" I can't remember).
> 
> ...


In my opinion it's a horrible choice for walls and yes it splatters. We use purdy coluses


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## PaintPerfect (Sep 19, 2013)

How could a builder make that choice for Master Hide on walls?! We try to stay away from builders because we haven't ever had good treatment form the ones we've done work for - its always a headache of nitpicking and then stalling the checks...aside from that, who would ever think Master hide was usable for walls?! You can't even LOOK at it without scuffing it up. Its awful to paint over with real paint, to - its like painting a giant sponge...


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

mudbone said:


> For exteriors I like Duration satin but on trim it looks to flat and it seems to attract dirt easily.Absorbs it like a sponge.Personally I like Marquee semi-gloss on trim not only dirt resistant but also for its color retention.:yes:


there is a fatal flaw to your statement. That can draw some bad conclusions to it. 1 Marquee has only been on the market for about nine months max. Now when you say color retention that is were I raise my eye brow and say hmm the products that Mudbone been using prior to Marquee must have some real bad color hold to not last longer then nine months.


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> In my opinion it's a horrible choice for walls and yes it splatters. We use purdy coluses


Same thing I told the property owners. They insisted and I bid them farewell after a short period of time. Even the SW store managers I know admit it's junk for walls. Just making sure I wasn't crazy, thanks.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Northwest_painter said:


> there is a fatal flaw to your statement. That can draw some bad conclusions to it. 1 Marquee has only been on the market for about nine months max. Now when you say color retention that is were I raise my eye brow and say hmm the products that Mudbone been using prior to Marquee must have some real bad color hold to not last longer then nine months.


Sorry should have said within the 9months compared to other brands specifically sw retention looks better.There hold as been told.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Masterpiece said:


> Same thing I told the property owners. They insisted and I bid them farewell after a short period of time. Even the SW store managers I know admit it's junk for walls. Just making sure I wasn't crazy, thanks.


Masterhide not for Masterpiece!:no:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Northwest_painter said:


> there is a fatal flaw to your statement. That can draw some bad conclusions to it. 1 Marquee has only been on the market for about nine months max. Now when you say color retention that is were I raise my eye brow and say hmm the products that Mudbone been using prior to Marquee must have some real bad color hold to not last longer then nine months.


Actually where you been? Theres a fatal flaw to most of my statements. No biggie!


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

mudbone said:


> Actually where you been? Theres a fatal flaw to most of my statements. No biggie!


just had to put a little jab


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## Yo eleven (Nov 9, 2011)

Masterhide was made for spray application. Since it has a high ammount of clay in it, it covers well in light colors but burnishes fast. That is why it is a decent option for ceilings, but only if you are spraying. My two cents


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I brush and roll mastrerhide on ceilings all the time, works great. :yes:


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