# Aura Bath and Spa on a big ceiling.



## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.

The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.

Now I'm nervous about the mildew coming back through on the ceiling or even re-forming over a flat ceiling paint. 

Would the Bath and Spa be a good choice for a large Living Room ceiling. This house is in the Northeast with no climate control where mildew has been an issue...

Any problems rolling a 25' x 25' flat ceiling with Bath and Spa. I've only used it on smaller ceilings/rooms and not sure if it will look good on a low, large flat ceiling.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Hmm. I dont know, but I imagine bath and spas' flat is more like a matte, and may be a nightmare on a ceiling. I would think about stepping it up to an eggshell... I'd hate to go shinier, but it might be better than trying to get a matte finish to look right on a ceiling.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Maybe they should consider getting an Hvac installed..
Just add some extender to your Bath and Spa or maybe switch to an exterior product? Most of them have good mildecides..

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. *Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?)*, then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...


Just buy good quality commercially available mold killer like this one:
*Concrobium Mold Control*
https://www.concrobium.com/en-can/products/mold-control-spray/

*Product Overview*.
Concrobium Mold Control is a proven mold fighting solution that effectively eliminates and prevents mold. 
It can also be used to clean up mold and get rid of musty odors with no harmful chemicals. 
The product works as it dries by crushing the mold spores at the roots and leaving behind an invisible antimicrobial shield to prevent future mold growth. 
Use Concrobium Mold Control for water damage restoration, construction and renovation (pre-treatment of building materials), 
specialty mold clean-up and prevention and general interior maintenance. 
This patented formula is used by homeowners and professionals.

-Eliminates, cleans and prevents mold and musty odors
-Contains no bleach, ammonia or volatile organic compounds (VOCs)
-Penetrates to the roots of mold
-EPA-registered
-Works on drywall, concrete, wood, masonry, siding, shingles, stone, grout, plastic, tile and many more surfaces
-Ideal for basements, bathrooms, laundry rooms, attics, closets, garages, windows, car interiors, boat interiors and RVs

Also this is very interesting article:
*Does Bleach Kill Mold?*
https://www.servicemasterrestore.com/blog/mold-damage/mold-myths-will-vinegar-kill-mold/

The idea that bleach can kill mold is a myth! 
In reality, bleach only kills surface mold, not the membrane that lives underneath the black, fuzzy growth. 
This mold membrane is where the heart of the problem truly lies. 
If you try using bleach to kill mold, it will usually return with a vengeance. The chemical structure of bleach makes it unable to penetrate porous surfaces like drywall or wood, which means that mold membranes will simply retreat deeper into whatever surface they're on to avoid the chemical. 
Once first exposed to bleach, the mold recognizes it as a threat and can actually use it as a fungal food to grow more rapidly. 
That's right – using bleach to kill mold can actually feed the problem! 
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) does not recommend using bleach to kill or remove mold, except under special conditions when supervised by a professional. 
If you want to effectively eradicate mold in your home, bleach simply won't cut it.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Woodco said:


> Hmm. I dont know, but I imagine bath and spas' flat is more like a matte, and may be a nightmare on a ceiling. I would think about stepping it up to an eggshell... I'd hate to go shinier, but it might be better than trying to get a matte finish to look right on a ceiling.


Interesting.
Why would you think that matte AURA Bath&Spa would be more difficult to make "look right" on a ceiling instead of eggshell.
I think it would be the other way around actually.
Just finished painting bathroom walls and ceiling yesterday with it, customer opted for ceiling to be painted same color as walls. 
Used it many times before and it went very nicely.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> *The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.*
> 
> ...


If it's not too late (if you didn't applied paint yet) in this case I would definitely seal the skimmed area with double coats of drywall sealer, if you already put 123 on it, I would put second coat.
The idea is to seal it very well so the moisture doesn't penetrate through the paint and reactivates the mildew.
If the mildew doesn't get moisture it will die and stay dead. 

I would use this product to seal it (even on top of the 123), I just experimented with it and posted my impressions yesterday, but was reading about it and it's properties for some time now. 
I like this product very much and it would be perfect product to seal the whole ceiling in that bathroom or at least the skim coated area.
It's designed for such duty. 

*OPINIONS on Corotech® Clear Acrylic Sealer V027*
*THREAD:* https://www.painttalk.com/f2/opinions-corotech-clear-acrylic-sealer-v027-93463/#post1646043


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...


In that case make sure (or made the owners aware) that there is good size gap between the bathroom door and the floor so at least there is some air entry/circulation, airflow. 
*3/4"* gap would be the must in their case.
Many bathrooms have very small gap and there is no air entering the bathroom adding to the moisture problems. 
Also 24/7 air fan would help.
New bathroom fans (like Panasonic, I installed many of them) are so efficient that if you run them 24/7 for the whole year non-stop it would cost 
(of course depends on the electricity rates) from $15-$25-$35 (for the whole year, non-stop working, moving air).
But if they ignore those suggestions, screw them, more work for painters in the future.:surprise:


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

EveryDay said:


> If it's not too late (if you didn't applied paint yet) in this case I would definitely seal the skimmed area with double coats of drywall sealer, if you already put 123 on it, I would put second coat.
> The idea is to seal it very well so the moisture doesn't penetrate through the paint and reactivates the mildew.
> If the mildew doesn't get moisture it will die and stay dead.
> 
> ...


Interesting stuff that Corotech...

I was thinking 2 coats also.... I was contemplating a coat of 123 and then a coat of the Mold killing primer. Better overkill than a fail.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

EveryDay said:


> Interesting.
> Why would you think that matte AURA Bath&Spa would be more difficult to make "look right" on a ceiling instead of eggshell.
> I think it would be the other way around actually.
> Just finished painting bathroom walls and ceiling yesterday with it, customer opted for ceiling to be painted same color as walls.
> Used it many times before and it went very nicely.


Its not that I think the Bath and spa paint itself would be harder, but I've had bad luck with "quality" flat paints (or mattes) on ceilings in general. They seem to be prone to flashing and streaking. Im guessing, that bath and spa flat would be matte, so if it were me, I would ask the client if I could put eggshell on the ceiling rather than flat. I doubt any client would argue against it either.

Basically, I would be hesitant to put any Aura flat on any large, well lit ceiling.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Woodco said:


> Its not that I think the Bath and spa paint itself would be harder, but I've had bad luck with "quality" flat paints (or mattes) on ceilings in general. They seem to be prone to flashing and streaking. *Im guessing, that bath and spa flat would be matte,* so if it were me, I would ask the client if I could put eggshell on the ceiling rather than flat. I doubt any client would argue against it either.
> 
> Basically, I would be hesitant to put any Aura flat on any large, well lit ceiling.


Yes it is matte.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Its not that I think the Bath and spa paint itself would be harder, but I've had bad luck with "quality" flat paints (or mattes) on ceilings in general. They seem to be prone to flashing and streaking. Im guessing, that bath and spa flat would be matte, so if it were me, I would ask the client if I could put eggshell on the ceiling rather than flat. I doubt any client would argue against it either.
> 
> Basically, I would be hesitant to put any Aura flat on any large, well lit ceiling.


Bath and Spa is a matte. 

FEATURES:
- Optimized for hot, steamy, humid environments
- No longer limited to higher sheens for bathrooms
- Provides exceptional durability and protection in a beautiful matte finish
- Extreme hide and coverage
- Proprietary Color Lock® Technology ensures color integrity and brilliance
- Optimized to prevent water staining 
- Zero VOC, low odor

- *Specially formulated to lock out moisture and keep it from penetrating 
- the film; Mildew-resistant*

The mildew resistance is what I'm interested in. That's why I'm wondering if anyone has had success using it on a large ceiling. Not so much critical light on this ceiling but the ceiling is kinda low.

If I was going to step up to an eggshell I would probably go with the Perma - White.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> Bath and Spa is a matte.
> 
> FEATURES:
> - Optimized for hot, steamy, humid environments
> ...


Some time ago PACman (or maybe somebody else) posted that mildew resistance effect in paints "wears off" in few months.
Apparently it's not very long lasting effect.

(I think it was PACman commenting on some new paint from Sh-Williams that claimed to have this "mildew resistance revolutionary technology")
But in reality apparently it's just a marketing gimmick, similar to Paint & Primer in one.
Maybe PACman can chime on it when he crawls out out of his Hillbilly lab...lol


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

EveryDay said:


> "mildew resistance revolutionary technology")
> But in reality apparently it's just a marketing gimmick, similar to Paint & Primer in one.


This is what I'm afraid of..


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> This is what I'm afraid of..


Well, I just asked google and here is one of the sites.
*"Top 5 Mold And Mildew Resistant Paints"*
https://letsremovemold.com/top-5-mold-resistant-paints/
"There is a lot of confusion surrounding mold resistant paints. ​
They are very effective in removing mold and keeping it from returning, as mold resistant paints can be used to paint over mold and remove it, 
​in addition to offering ​5 year guaranteed prevention against its future spread."

So who knows, maybe there are different chemical compositions that last longer.

How is their bathroom fan working, is it OK?


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

EveryDay said:


> How is their bathroom fan working, is it OK?


Problem is, it's a Living Room.

I wouldn't hesitate using any of the products mentioned in this thread in a bathroom. 

I would love to use some BM 508 on this ceiling but there is a mildew problem in the house and I'm afraid the mildew will come back with a flat ceiling paint.

This room has to look good as well as stay mildew free.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> Problem is, it's a Living Room.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate using any of the products mentioned in this thread in a bathroom.
> 
> ...


From what I read higher sheen in paint will not prevent mold from developing, it will be only easier to clean it off.
So I would apply Aura Bath&Spa (matte) on their ceiling in Living Room if you are going to use BM paints there.
BM matte is just touch shinier than their flat, but I'm sure you are familiar with that.
This doesn't sound like a well maintained house or owner didn't installed some preventive equipment to control or prevent mildew growth,
so I'm not sure if it's worth it to buy expensive BM paints for this project. 
I guess it's worth it if you are looking for ideas, but don't offer any warranties regardless of what the label on the paint can says.


*
EDIT:*
different opinion from a different web site, haha

http://www.paintpro.net/Articles/PP706/PP706_Mold-Mildew.cfm
*One to grow on.*
The higher the sheen, Rzicznek points out, the tighter the paint film and the lower the chance of mildew growth. 
“Flat paints have a higher chance of seeing mildew,” he observes. 
“They are very porous and there are more places for moisture and dirt to settle, which is a perfect environment for mildew.”

Perhaps that’s why some companies do not offer their mold-resistant products with a flat finish. The most popular offerings include semigloss and eggshell.

Regardless of the sheen or the quality of the product, Spillane maintains if the conditions are right mold and mildew will eventually grow. 
“At a certain point, mildew can grow on anything. In the laboratory, scientists can even get it to grow on glass. 
You can slow it down, but if it’s in a bad enough environment I don’t think there’s anything that will totally stop it.”


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> Problem is, it's a Living Room.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate using any of the products mentioned in this thread in a bathroom.
> 
> ...


Besides doing your best and painting with specialty paints tell the owner to introduce air circulation devices and dehumidifiers, they will greatly help in slowing down or maybe even eliminating mildew growth.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...


First off, I'd look at why there is a mildew problem, is it lack of insulation, ventilation or no AC?

Until you fix that problem you're just putting lipstick on a pig!


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...


*OK, my bad,* I read your post too fast first time.
Your question relates only to the Liv Room ceiling and not to the bathroom ceiling as I mistakenly assumed. *My apology. *

If you are concerned about lap marks from the matte Aura Bath&Spa on a large ceiling then I would definitely seal the whole ceiling with the Corotech® Clear Acrylic Sealer V027. 
After you apply the specialty mildew resistant primer/sealer go over it with VO27, that will give you uniformed sheen surface, that will give you much longer "open time" so the ceiling paint is not going to dry too fast and will immensely reduce chances of roller lap marks, paint will be absorbed more evenly, cutting will be much easier.
Nothing but benefits from bit extra of work and that sealer is not expensive, so it will be OK on your wallet too.

"Product reduces of topcoat consumption (saving time and money),
equalizes and reduces substrate's absorption, reinforces the substrate, ensure excellent adhesion."
http://benjaminmoore.pl/pub/uploadd...27_primer_technical_data_sheet_en_12_2018.pdf

Good luck with your project.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Brushman4 said:


> First off, I'd look at why there is a mildew problem, is it lack of insulation, ventilation or no AC?
> 
> Until you fix that problem you're just putting lipstick on a pig!


In this area there are some big old house that aren't worth an $$$. 

They will never get the love they need. Eventually they will probably be gutted, vinyl sided and rented. But for now there is a small community of people who love living in these old relics. 

I'm trying to do the best I can for them within the limited options I have as a painter.

Yes lipstick on an old pig.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

EveryDay said:


> From what I read higher sheen in paint will not prevent mold from developing..
> 
> 
> different opinion from a different web site, haha
> ...


EveryDay thanks for the input. I do appreciate it. But honestly, I can also do google searches... with the best of them. 

What I'm really looking for when I post to this site is first hand experiences and insights based on first hand experiences from pro's who have successfully dealt with the same issues.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I’m wondering how those alkaline coatings used for mold remediation/mold abatement would work? There are lime based primers and top coats with binders specifically designed to be applied over moldy surfaces. The alkalinity in the coatings kills the mold and prevents it from ever returning. Might be worth looking into. There’s a prior thread on a product called Lime Prime with a link.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Lakesidex said:


> Problem is, it's a Living Room.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate using any of the products mentioned in this thread in a bathroom.
> 
> ...


Why not use your favorite mildew resistant paint as the first coat and then top it off with BM 508? That way if it ever comes back it is a 5 minute touch-up. If it reappears use Concrobium fungicide spray first and then 4" roller for the 508. That 508 dead flat paint touches up better than any paint on the market. It's 100% effective.

Do NOT use BM Bath & Spa on a ceiling other than a small bathroom.

I'll add one more thing.

I once painted an entire house with BM Bath & Spa and was not happy with the result. I had to repaint it with Regal Select Matte because it looked terrible. There were visible lap lines on the large walls with a window background. The walls looked like vertical column wallpaper with columns the width of a 9" roller,I kid you not. I even used MB extender to keep the dry time open and that didn't work either. The Regal Select matte looked 1000% better.

Never again will I use BM Bath & Spa for painting rooms other than a bathroom. Most bathroom don't have long views of the walls exposing the streaks. I hadn't noticed that before and I've use Bath & Spa dozens of time in bathrooms.

https://www.concrobium.com/en-can/products/mold-control-spray/


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> EveryDay thanks for the input. I do appreciate it. But honestly, I can also do google searches... with the best of them.
> 
> What I'm really looking for when I post to this site is first hand experiences and insights based on first hand experiences from pro's who have successfully dealt with the same issues.


Lakesidex, I'm very sorry to waste your time with my posts. It will never happen again.


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> *The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish.* *It had some mildew* *and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew.* I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...





Lakesidex said:


> EveryDay thanks for the input. I do appreciate it. But honestly, * I can also do google searches... with the best of them. *
> 
> What I'm really looking for when I post to this site is first hand experiences and insights based on first hand experiences* from pro's* who have successfully dealt with the same issues.


I guess you didn't do google search on that and you didn't ask the pro's if that was proper way of dealing with that mildew.
I'm sure even average DIYier wouldn't do that.

I provided you with *a pro* way of dealing with rolling large flat ceiling with Aura Bath&Spa. It must be sealed first, and I provided you with a link to my thread where in one of the posts I described sealing the ceiling with GARDZ, (and the Corotech® Clear Acrylic Sealer V027 is like GARDZ but has much less smell).

Anyway thanks for your rude response.
Maybe because of responses like yours that's why so many quality members don't bother posting here anymore.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

EveryDay said:


> I guess you didn't do google search on that and you didn't ask the pro's if that was proper way of dealing with that mildew.
> I'm sure even average DIYier wouldn't do that.
> 
> I provided you with *a pro* way of dealing with rolling large flat ceiling with Aura Bath&Spa. It must be sealed first, and I provided you with a link to my thread where in one of the posts I described sealing the ceiling with GARDZ, (and the Corotech® Clear Acrylic Sealer V027 is like GARDZ but has much less smell).
> ...


Hey man I do appreciate the effort and quality of your posts. Nothing personal.... I'm just running out of time on this job and wanted to hear from someone who tried the Bath and Spa on some larger walls and ceilings, or some other slam dunk solution.

You pointed me in the right direction with the Concrobium Mold Control and the Corotech looks real interesting. Thanks.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Mr Smith said:


> Why not use your favorite mildew resistant paint as the first coat and then top it off with BM 508? That way if it ever comes back it is a 5 minute touch-up. If it reappears use Concrobium fungicide spray first and then 4" roller for the 508. That 508 dead flat paint touches up better than any paint on the market. It's 100% effective.
> 
> Do NOT use BM Bath & Spa on a ceiling other than a small bathroom...
> 
> ...


This is basically the same way I was thinking about approaching it...

First coat 123 because it's cheap and it will seal the skim coat.

Then the mold killing primer, then 2 coats 508.

I may be doing an extra coat here but I feel confident that it gives me a good shot at success. The concrobiam is a game changer and the 508 touches up like a champ.


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## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

Just get precat epoxy in eggshell and be done with it.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

PaPainter724 said:


> Just get precat epoxy in eggshell and be done with it.


What is so special about a precat epoxy that would stop mildew growth?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Back to the OP, I think you are taking undo responsibility onto yourself. I would tell the client that you will do A,B and C to kill the existing mildew, and mkaybe squirt a packet of mildecide into whatever ceiling paint you use, and tell them you did your best, and they should look into solving the moisture problem. They (or maybe just yourself) are trying to use paint as a bandaid for a more serious issue. Be realistic with yourself, and your clients. The only thing for sure, is no other painter can do it either....Tell them "sorry, but I cant promise to keep it from coming back."


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Woodco said:


> What is so special about a precat epoxy that would stop mildew growth?


I was just going to post an exact question.
Sounds intriguing...


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## EveryDay (Mar 23, 2019)

Woodco said:


> What is so special about a precat epoxy that would stop mildew growth?


Quote:
Regardless of the sheen or the quality of the product, Spillane maintains if the conditions are right mold and mildew will eventually grow. 
“At a certain point, mildew can grow on anything. 
In the laboratory, scientists can even get it to grow on glass. 
You can slow it down, but if it’s in a bad enough environment I don’t think there’s anything that will totally stop it.”
http://www.paintpro.net/Articles/PP706/PP706_Mold-Mildew.cfm


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*What to do?*



Lakesidex said:


> I have an old 1800's house with a mildew problem. Plaster walls have mildew. Plan on washing with some mildewcide (any suggestions?), then priming with Zinser Mold Killing primer then 2 coats Regal eggshell.
> 
> The ceiling was sheetrock with a stipple finish. It had some mildew and I think I made a mistake by skim-coating over it without treating the mildew. I was planning on using the Mold Killing primer over the skim coat but the TDS on the primer states to use on only non-porous surfaces. I contacted a Zinser rep and they suggested just using 123 (because it has a mildewcide) over the skim coat and then painting with any ceiling paint.
> 
> ...


It would be nice if you had some photos of the mildew before you skim coated. It would also have been nice if you had come here with those photos before you did anything to the walls or ceiling, but hindsight is 20/20, something which I am still trying to learn! 

I have done a limited amount of mold remediation over the years. I remember draining 2 feet of water out of a basement (foreclosure house, electricity not paid, so electric company turned off power at the meter and let the basement get flooded), then wet vacuuming as much water out of the carpeting as I could. I put 2 70 pint dehumidifiers down there and kept them running for a long time. A mold remediation crew can in and basically gutted the basement, then sprayed something that was probably comparable to Concrobium onto every surface their sprayers could reach (no bleach). The contractor told me to keep the dehumidifiers running and to maintain the humidity below 55%. He said mold starts growing at about 60% humidity.

As others here have said, if the reason that mold grew in the first place is not addressed, the mold will most likely grow back. If you put all kinds of band-aids on one side of the ceiling and there is mold growing on the other side, what will prevent the mold from growing through and back onto the ceiling?

Concrobium sprayed onto the ceiling sounds like a good idea, expecially before applying anything like sealer that would prevent the concrobium from coming into contact with the mold. Concrobium contains sodium carbonate as well as 2 other salts, the combination of which they claim is the secret to its effectiveness. Sodium Carbonate has a pH of about 11, which is fairly alkaline (mold requires an acid environment to grow and is inhibited by high alkalinity.).

You can also fog the concrobium into the attic with a fogger you can rent at Home Depot. Fogging helps the chemical to make its way into any areas that air can get to, so that might be of help to reach the attic side of the problem.

As far as what to put onto the ceiling, you might consider using products from the below website as they are inorganically based so there is no carbon for the mold to feed on. I was thinking of BIN primer as that is about the best for impermeability to moisture. I emailed Erik Jannusch at Rustoleum about vapor barrier products and he told me that BIN was close to 100%, Coverstain about 95% and Gardz a poor 3rd with about 75% impermeability (I wonder what the impermeability of Corotech Clear Sealer is). I then remembered that BIN is made from the exoskeletons of the lac beetle, so that would probably be good food for mold.

https://www.earthpaint.net/natural-mold-abatement-paint-zero-voc.html

This site gives some interesting info on how to deal with mold and mildew. I have never used any Lime Prime products, though I would like to if I get the chance. If you do consider using Lime Prime, I would suggest contacting earthpaint.net to find out if there would be any incompatibility between their products and Concrobium.

I have enjoyed reading through all the comments so far and am curious to try the Corotech as Gardz does seem to have a strong odor. What I already don't like about Corotech is that it, like Gardz, comes in a paint can instead of a plastic gallon container like most acrylic sealers and finishes do. Much easier to pour out of the plastic jug. Why can't these corporations do simple things the way I want them to?

Good luck and keep us posted.

futtyos


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## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

Woodco said:


> PaPainter724 said:
> 
> 
> > Just get precat epoxy in eggshell and be done with it.
> ...


It's specifically used in high moisture areas that struggle with mildew and mold. It's been specced in every prison, pool, school locker room, shower area, chemical storage area, bathroom that I've ever done, including renovations where mold and mildew are big issues. And in the almost 16 years I've been doing this, I've never heard of it not working. 🤔


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## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

https://www.ppgpaints.com/products/...erior-pre-catalyzed-water-borne-acrylic-epoxy

Right at the bottom. Excellent mildew resistance. 

I could post 10 more links from other brands that say the same thing


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

futtyos said:


> I then remembered that BIN is made from the exoskeletons of the lac beetle, so that would probably be good food for mold.
> futtyos


A common misnomer regarding exoskeletons and shellac...shellac is produced from an excretion and not the exoskeleton. On the other hand, limestone used for making lime is formed from exoskeletons...shells, coral, etc..found in ancient sea beds..


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

pics


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Skimmed final coat right over that black stuff today... still wet.

Haven't touched the walls yet.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

PaPainter724 said:


> https://www.ppgpaints.com/products/...erior-pre-catalyzed-water-borne-acrylic-epoxy
> 
> Right at the bottom. Excellent mildew resistance.
> 
> I could post 10 more links from other brands that say the same thing


I have a gallon of that sitting in my garage that they comped me. It was thick as peanut butter. Its probably no good now though...

I didnt know they marketed it as mold resistant.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Skimmed final coat right over that black stuff today... still wet.
> 
> Haven't touched the walls yet.


Man, You should have a professional mold removal company deal with that. Thats not even healthy.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


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## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

It's thick but lays out and rolls out surprisingly very nice. And I'm surprised too as that's like 95 percent of its market in my experience. Got mildew/mold? Clean it then precat. You wont find a prison shower or swim room that's not using it. Lots of use in restaurants too


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

So will Advance be more prone to mildew because of its alkyd properties?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Lakesidex said:


> So will Advance be more prone to mildew because of its alkyd properties?


My understanding is its linseed oil that is mildew food. Hybrid paints dont use it. Its also my understanding that its oil based exterior stains that are prone to mildew, and not really paint.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Honestly I would be pretty upset if I couldn't use a hybrid paint. For me, Advance really makes the trim stand out and the customers seem very happy with it.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Chemical source of lime*



Alchemy Redux said:


> A common misnomer regarding exoskeletons and shellac...shellac is produced from an excretion and not the exoskeleton. On the other hand, limestone used for making lime is formed from exoskeletons...shells, coral, etc..found in ancient sea beds..


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide

futtyos


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

futtyos said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide
> 
> futtyos


Having owned a stand-alone plastering business for a number of years, as well as having an educational background in chemistry/organic chemistry, what is often referred to as the lime cycle begins with carbon containing limestone (calcium carbonate) whose primary component is calcium-containing marine exoskeletons. Although carbon-containing, carbonates in limestone are inorganic, and not a food source as you mentioned.

The lime cycle is pretty interesting. During the conversion of calcium carbonate to quick-lime, the carbon is released in the form of CO2, resulting in calcium oxide production. During slaking, the quick lime is hydrated forming calcium hydroxide. Once installed as a plaster or lime paint, during the curing or “carbonation”, the calcium hydroxide is reverted back to its original state (calcium carbonate) through the uptake of atmospheric carbon in CO2 and the release of water, thus the completion of the lime cycle. You essentially end up with what was the initial raw ingredient, limestone. 

The pH of Lime Prime is 12.45 and carbonizes quickly with a final surface pH of ~ 9.9 which is the pH of most joint compounds. The main component in USG AP and 3 Plus joint compound is that same calcium carbonate with a pH of 7.5-9.9. The skimming over of a moldy surface with joint compound, in theory, would have a similar effect that the Lime Prime would have, inhibiting mold growth to “some degree”, black mold not growing @ pH levels beyond 8 (doesn’t say much for the moldy smell of old joint compound though...)

We’ve used unpainted lime plaster as a finish in shower enclosures, the pH inhibiting microbial growth, particularly with mold and that pink bacterial growth often found in bathrooms. 

I’m with you on the idea of lime based paints inhibiting mold growth as per my prior post in this thread, suggesting lime paint to the OP for the same reasons you mentioned...no food source plus high alkalinity. 

Old techniques are often the best techniques when it comes to treating plaster found in these old relic gems.


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