# What would you do...



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

I looked at an old farm house yesterday. Plaster and lathe walls/ceilings covered with wallpaper. A couple of the rooms ceilings have been painted over top of what looks to be previously failing wallpaper. Look like the previous owners tried removing the paper, left the hard to get off stuff, and painted over it.

My game-plan is to mask, spray bin, shoot knockdown, and paint. My question is for you wallpaper and texture guys. If the ceilings (painted over paper) are not failing can I get away with priming, texturing and painting? My initial thought is to just remove the ceiling paper and start from scratch but it turns out painted wallpaper doesn't like to come off easily. Same question for some of the walls as well. Has anyone textured directly over painted wall paper? Not worth the risk? Thanks.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

My other question about this job is about the plaster. On large settling cracks (inside wall corners especially) would it be a good idea to clean it up and put some big stretch in there before trying to mud? I'm concerned that just straight mud will crack again. Big stretch or something similar for the big crack repairs?


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

if sealed, let it be. Skim areas that are grossly problematic and proceed


----------



## squid (Dec 25, 2012)

If there was no way to remove the paper, I would mesh/skim the whole thing for my initial prep. Have you tried the old daarch trick of sanding it w 36g?


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Paradigmzz said:


> if sealed, let it be. Skim areas that are grossly problematic and proceed


I mainly just use the hopper for repair work. You think a heavy knock down will hide most of that ceiling?


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

squid said:


> If there was no way to remove the paper, I would mesh/skim the whole thing for my initial prep. Have you tried the old daarch trick of sanding it w 36g?


I suggested a skim coating before but they're on somewhat of a budget. They are very realistic about what they have going on here. I need to read more about the world famous daarch trick


----------



## squid (Dec 25, 2012)

The 36g trick is just sanding to open up the surface to allow penatration of wp remover. Since you said the "B" word, I understand and will shutup now. It looks so DIYish I just don't trust it. Good luck!


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

*IF* 36 grit sand paper will bust through the x-number of paint layers, I would advise that would be the safest bet to assure proper adhesion.

Test an area. 

BTW, 36D sandpaper has gotten near impossible to find in 9 x 11 sheets. At HD I did find some 4" x 36" 36D belts. They cut to size very easily. I think they will last longer in my sander than the flimsy sheet paper. 

Now, back to your situation. 

The problem with painting over paper is that the paste WILL, at some time, give it up and fail. Sometimes soon sometimes down the road.

Understanding the budget, YET knowing how much work will be involved to make the surface right, I would sell them on overlay with 3/8" sheet rock for it's value and longevity. 

If they are on a budget that prevents them from having it done in a way you can guarantee 100% success, I really do not see the advantage of being half assed - be FULL assed. 

First and foremost, get them to sign a waiver and than just prime and texture and let the chips fall where they may, literally.


BTW, I live in an "old farmhouse". Plaster and lath throughout. The ceiling of my office was ghetto stucco (raw mud splotched on) over who knows what. I soaked and scraped it off, only to find painted calcimine. I have no idea why the "stucco" held on for so long. I overlayed the calcimine mess w/ 3/8 drywall. It turned out spectactular.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

daArch said:


> IF 36 grit sand paper will bust through the x-number of paint layers, I would advise that would be the safest bet to assure proper adhesion.
> 
> Test an area.
> 
> ...


Full assed... I like that lol  

My initial thought was to remove it, and it sounds like that's what most would do. Sometimes confirmation is the best solution. What about the crack picture? Caulk an mud it before knockdown or just talk them into new drywall? I suggested new drywall but they couldn't get anybody over there in a reasonable time frame. Everyone they talked to was booked for 3-4 months.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

MIZZOU said:


> My other question about this job is about the plaster. On large settling cracks (inside wall corners especially) would it be a good idea to clean it up and put some big stretch in there before trying to mud? I'm concerned that just straight mud will crack again. Big stretch or something similar for the big crack repairs?



If it is a crack due to settling, then a proper plaster repair should be good enough. The house has settled and will not again.

It there is still movement, that needs to be addressed before repairs. Plaster is not elastic, it will crack if there is movement. The Big Stretch might not crack, but any patching material on top of it will.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

daArch said:


> If it is a crack due to settling, then a proper plaster repair should be good enough. The house has settled and will not again.
> 
> It there is still movement, that needs to be addressed before repairs. Plaster is not elastic, it will crack if there is movement. The Big Stretch might not crack, but any patching material on top of it will.


The house is probably 100 years old so its settled. Sounds like a simple plaster repair should do it then. Thanks for the help man


----------



## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Paradigmzz said:


> if sealed, let it be. Skim areas that are grossly problematic and proceed


This.
Its already painted, why open a can of worms?

I always observe the line between 'repaint' or 'restore'. 
Budget = repaint


----------



## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I'd run a small bead of caulk along that ceiling line as well.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Bender said:


> This.
> Its already painted, why open a can of worms?
> 
> I always observe the line between 'repaint' or 'restore'.
> Budget = repaint


It seems to be on there pretty good but the thought of failure down the road scares me into probably just removing it. I'm more worried about the knockdown not looking right as opposed to failure though. Just removing it may take a little longer but it will help me sleep at night.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

MIZZOU said:


> It seems to be on there pretty good but the thought of failure down the road scares me into probably just removing it. I'm more worried about the knockdown not looking right as opposed to failure though. Just removing it may take a little longer but it will help me sleep at night.


I think you need to skim coat the bad areas like Para said. Just get some 20 minutes and put it on so there is no sanding and you should be fine. Many times I think, oh the knock down will cover that when it did not.

Pat


----------



## skinne9 (Nov 21, 2009)

I think it would be faster to just put up new drywall than to remove all that wallpaper.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

skinne9 said:


> I think it would be faster to just put up new drywall than to remove all that wallpaper.


It probably would be if I could tape and mud faster. I'm not very efficient with it yet.


----------



## skinne9 (Nov 21, 2009)

MIZZOU said:


> It probably would be if I could tape and mud faster. I'm not very efficient with it yet.


You will be skim coating entire surface though once you remove the wall paper,It's not that much diffrent


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

skinne9 said:


> You will be skim coating entire surface though once you remove the wall paper,It's not that much diffrent


Not on this one, just prepping for a heavy knockdown. This is not a perfection job and they're very realistic about it.


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Guardz it, sand it skim it sabd it texture it.


----------



## Holly (Jun 14, 2011)

squid said:


> If there was no way to remove the paper, I would mesh/skim the whole thing for my initial prep. Have you tried the old daarch trick of sanding it w 36g?


Sounds like getting the customer to sign a waiver is definitely the way to go, and stripping the remaining paper seems pointless--but I just want to put my 2 cents in about daArch's 36g method--it is AWESOME--the only way I strip wallpaper now, so fast. Thanks Bill! :notworthy:


----------

