# Removing Candle Drip(?) Wallpaper



## interiorwallfinishes (Apr 16, 2008)

I have come across this situation before and need to see if anyone has had similiar problems and how they dealt with it. Customer has wallpaper on top of wallpaper that has been painted. Top wallpaper can be removed using standard soak and strip method, the problem is the second painted over wallpaper which I have referred to as 'candle drip' it seemed to be common 30 to 40 years ago when first-time homeowners were given a choice of 'paper or paint?' If paper was chosen the installers hung without priming or sizing, consequently the paper has become almost one with the sheetrock. It appears that this paper was printed with a base color, then ink or something was 'drizzled' on the print which now has a rough surface to it - not embossed just rough. Scraping it off always seems to cause extensive wall damage, requiring lots of skim coating, sanding or using lining paper to minimize the rough texture showing through. Wondering if any of the wallpaper gurus have come up with a better method than what I described. Thanks in advance for any replys.:help:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

interiorwallfinishes said:


> Customer has wallpaper on top of wallpaper that has been painted.


lol. what?


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## interiorwallfinishes (Apr 16, 2008)

There are two, 2, double layers of paper, one on top of another bottom one is the problem!


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

When I come across a paper that has permabonded with the sheetrock due to no prime, I let it become the new "face". Since any attempt to strip is going to involve a big fix, leave it. Prime, with oil , with gardz or with 2 coats of zin123, find and cut out anything loose including corners, reprime them, and then skim as needed. You would be doing all of that after you messed up the walls anyway. 
I believe in taking paper off whenever possible, but there are times that it just isn't worth it. 
Good luck!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

BrushJockey - :thumbup:

Now Biker is gonna jump all over me, and I'm ready big boy :thumbsup:

We all know my opinion about painting over paper, HOWEVER, there is a caveat. IF the paper has been installed over raw rock w/o prep, I agree with BJ - it is "permabonded" and has become a "new face". There is unfortunately no choice but to paint over (Damn, it hurts just typing those words)

I do disagree with all but one of his choices to overcoat. I would recommend Gardz only - well either that or the original Drywall Repair Coat (DRC as parodi coined) - Draw-tite. These DRC's have a far superior penetrating and bonding capability than any oil and especially more than a heavy bodied latex primer like 1-2-3.

OH, you do need to inspect every square inch for any loose spots and dry scrape them before priming. 

However you have brought up something I am unfamiliar with, the "drizzle" or "candle drip". Ya gotta sand that. Choice is to sand before or after priming - I have no experience, I have no answer. "Test in an inconspicuous place". One thought, if you sand before priming, you will more easily find the loose spots. But this is conjecture. 

Half the fun of this business is attacking a job with an open mind and finding a solution to a particular problem

I would recommend a palm sander (or a Festool sander hooked up to a vacuum would be ideal).


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

In my defense, before there was 123, there was oil like kilz, and it worked. particularly when thinned for penetration. 123 thinned and double coated has worked many times for me before I new of the magic that is Gardz. And then there is Gardz. 
So I agree to agree. :->


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

*Play it again Sam*

I have seen stuff that was so bad it had to have 1/4 in. sheetrock hung over it. Flocked paper or embossed especially.This is also a remedy for highly fissured plaster ceilings. The only way it makes since though is when there is enough of a reveal on the woodwork. You can remove baseboard easily enough but the door jambs are a little trickier in that if you pull the outside trim piece you would have to add something to the jamb part. Rots a Ruck. It's all work so no worries.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> I have seen stuff that was so bad it had to have 1/4 in. sheetrock hung over it. Flocked paper or embossed especially.This is also a remedy for highly fissured plaster ceilings. The only way it makes since though is when there is enough of a reveal on the woodwork. You can remove baseboard easily enough but the door jambs are a little trickier in that if you pull the outside trim piece you would have to add something to the jamb part. Rots a Ruck. It's all work so no worries.


also about the only real solution for calcimine ceilings that have been painted and now failing

BTDT


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