# Never dried



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Here's a DIY question for you - but sinse I'm in the business, you are allowed to opine :thumbup:

Primed some plywood with XIM solvent based X-Seal (free sample, so I'm true to my boycott). I was not impressed with how it dried on contact and did not have enough time to soak into the wood - although the bond did seem secure. 

I finished with some old stock gloss exterior oil. And I mean OLD. At least 25 years old. Thinned with spirits and pentrol.

Took a long time to even think about drying and finally skinned after eight hours. Two days later still not dry under the skin.

My common sense says paint was too old. Driers shot. But I was wondering if the X-Seal contributed to this failure. 

Anyone have experience with X-Seal on wood with oil finish?


----------



## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

Since the paint is older than me I would say it is too old of paint.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Bill

the 70's called and want their crappy oil paint back


----------



## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Gawd Bill......and I thought I hung on to stuff too long.


----------



## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Stick to paste Bill....
:jester:

Sounds like the salts were bad or not mixed in well enough.


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

No matter how much you want to find fault in the other I am sure it was the old paint.


----------



## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

was it exterior paint that was drying inside out of uv rays?? I ask because I know some sikkens stain require uv rays to fully cure, with out the uv rays it takes months to fully cure, wonder if this is a similar situation??


----------



## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

mist with a little MEK that might kick it off :jester:


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Dave Mac said:


> was it exterior paint that was drying inside out of uv rays?? I ask because I know some sikkens stain require uv rays to fully cure, with out the uv rays it takes months to fully cure, wonder if this is a similar situation??



No Dave, outside, full sun. 

Yes all, my good sense does say it's the old paint, but I was just hoping. 

Wolf, you wouldn't believe some of the stuff I have ...... or maybe you would. I have no idea how to make it useful. I'd rather use it than burden "hazardous waste day" with it. Maybe thin it down and use it as a stain on the barn :thumbup:


----------



## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

Try an experiment without the penetrol and thin with naptha. Even I don't think I've got any 25 year old paint!(fifteen maybe) I'm surprised you could even get the can open, assuming it had been opened previously.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

CliffK said:


> Try an experiment without the penetrol and thin with naptha. Even I don't think I've got any 25 year old paint!(fifteen maybe) I'm surprised you could even get the can open, assuming it had been opened previously.


don't got no naptha. Only about half gallon of the paint left. I'll look for it at Blowes next time I'm there.

It was no problem opening. I tend to clean the lip pretty good. And no skin on the surface, just amber oils. 

thanks


----------



## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

daArch said:


> Here's a DIY question for you - but sinse I'm in the business, you are allowed to opine :thumbup:
> 
> Primed some plywood with XIM solvent based X-Seal (free sample, so I'm true to my boycott). I was not impressed with how it dried on contact and did not have enough time to soak into the wood - although the bond did seem secure.
> 
> ...


My guess would be that the primer sealed the wood as it should and the oil coundnt penetrate so it has to dry to itself and the thinner has slowed the drying time too much. That primer is probably designed for modern fast drying alkyds and latex paints. Paints that are thin that dry quickly. 

Can you peel the skin off without anything left to the primer/wood? I doubt you had and bonding between the paint and the primer.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Bill

Call me next time you paint. I will send you something from this century :thumbsup:


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> My guess would be that the primer sealed the wood as it should and the oil coundnt penetrate so it has to dry to itself and the thinner has slowed the drying time too much. That primer is probably designed for modern fast drying alkyds and latex paints. Paints that are thin that dry quickly.
> 
> Can you peel the skin off without anything left to the primer/wood? I doubt you had and bonding between the paint and the primer.


Thanks Chris.

I tried to "peel" off the skin with a razor blade scraper, but it was being tedious, so I just belt sanded down to raw. I've found some newer stock to prime and finish.......only ten years old  :thumbup:

It's such a small little project that even a quart of paint would be way too much.


----------



## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

DaArch...I used a lot of oil paint in the 70's and your mistake was using modern stuff. If you'd have used real turpentine as a thinner it'd probably have worked. The paint rebelled at the new fangled things you used with it. The 70's man, you can't mess with us or the paint from that era !!!


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

painterdude said:


> DaArch...I used a lot of oil paint in the 70's and your mistake was using modern stuff. If you'd have used real turpentine as a thinner it'd probably have worked. The paint rebelled at the new fangled things you used with it. The 70's man, you can't mess with us or the paint from that era !!!


Yah know, I almost DID thin it with turps. But I remembered that turps sometimes contributes to drying issues. 

Damn, I think I'm starting to forget more than I ever knew.


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

daArch said:


> Yah know, I almost DID thin it with turps. But I remembered that turps sometimes contributes to drying issues.
> 
> Damn, I think I'm starting to forget more than I ever knew.[/QUOTE]
> 
> ...


----------



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Another way to add some dryer to old paint and loosen it up is to add wilbond. And makes for pleasant aroma too!


----------



## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Im still shocked that 25yr old alkyd wasnt seeded.


----------



## mustangmike3789 (Jun 11, 2011)

was the coating applied too thick. oil base coating cure by oxygen induced polymerization. when oils are applied too thick (0ver 5 mils wft) the outside of the coating will form a skin from contact with the outside air not allowing the inside of the coating to cure. this is what happens when you reopen an old can of oil paint and it and it has a skin on the surface of the paint in the can. using heat from a hair dryer or a fan may help speed up curing by moving more air over the surface, the heat may help because there is still some evapoation of solvents during curing. as for the paint being 25 yrs old and still being good, that may be possible. old red lead oil paints have been found in bridge inspections in this condition, puddles around the flanges skinned over but the paint was still liquid in the center from 50 yrs ago.


----------



## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

this begets the question, what's the oldest can of product you have in storage? I have a can of Touraine triple white oil flat interior wallpaint - I am assuming it's from the 70's. It weighs about as much two gallons of modern paint.


----------



## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

plainpainter said:


> this begets the question, what's the oldest can of product you have in storage? I have a can of Touraine triple white oil flat interior wallpaint - I am assuming it's from the 70's. It weighs about as much two gallons of modern paint.


It's probably still good... lol! If I had a dollar for every gal. of BM SaniFlat I put on back in the day ....... I had a can of Dutch Boy White Lead I used as a paper weight for a zillion years(worked well!). Just got rid of it a while back after all the lead RRP stuff-figured I didn't want to be caught with that when the music stopped!


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> this begets the question, what's the oldest can of product you have in storage? I have a can of Touraine triple white oil flat interior wallpaint - I am assuming it's from the 70's. It weighs about as much two gallons of modern paint.



that was some good sheeet, Dan

When I managed Orth in Swellesley in 89, he sold it. 

Got a pic of the label? I might be able to recognize it from that era.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Im still shocked that 25yr old alkyd wasnt seeded.


NC, it was my understanding that seeding came from moisture being introduced into the paint. When Hancock Paint (local MA company) sold me some seeded paint in the mid 70's, they initially said it was old stock that had past its self life, then they changed their tune and said during manufacturing moisture got introduced and the seeding was the result of moisture reacting with glycol.

OH, it was an interior alkyd semi gloss


----------



## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

*Spring Cleaning-Makes Sense*


----------

