# Aluminum entry fence



## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I'm submitting a bid to paint an entry fence and some gates to an exclusive community in town. I looked at it yesterday and am 99% sure it is aluminum.

My initial thought was to just use a bunch of spray cans of Rustoleum or other exterior oil product that comes in spray cans in order to minimize overspray. I thought of using DTM as well, applying with a 210 ff tip. And I considered mini-rollers with the DTM.

I need to go back and see if there are any electrical outlets near the work to be done so I have a place to plug in the airless. Here are a couple photos. Two of the entry gates have been destroyed and will be replaced before the painting commences. 

I'm thinking that DTM is best in terms of longevity. After a pressure wash, I'm also thinking pump spraying with SealKrete to enhance adhesion of the DTM? 

Thoughts? I haven't painted any entry gates before, I just want a long-lasting result.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Whoops. Here are some pics.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

The only time I ever did one of these was over 20 yrs ago and we sprayed oil. 

I have a generator just for this reason, no power or not enough power.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Seems like if I use the airless around 75% of the paint is going to be wasted in overspray. I would have my helper on the side I wasn't spraying move a 4' by 8" sheet of "something" to catch the overspray (fence is a little over 6' high). Any ideas on what that "something" should be? Seems like it won't take very long to get quite a build up on it.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> Seems like if I use the airless around 75% of the paint is going to be wasted in overspray. I would have my helper on the side I wasn't spraying move a 4' by 8" sheet of "something" to catch the overspray (fence is a little over 6' high). Any ideas on what that "something" should be? Seems like it won't take very long to get quite a build up on it.


Whatever is handy and free. If u got access to a dumpster with some big cardboard? Depending. What product ur using and how fast it is going to dry, run 8' plastic or clamp drops on one side, shoot a side, flip the plastic or drops to the other side and shoot it. If it dries fast enuff, to do that. Or. If ur planning on spending two days or a part of two separate days on itanyhow, a whole day is fine enuff dry time with anything,


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Cardboard. Go to lowes or somewhere and get a couple refrigerator boxes. That's what I would do anyway. Don't really have to have a helper to move them, just prop them up with a stick or something. 

Doesn't matter a whole lot about the build up, the first few passes soak into the cardboard and dry pretty fast. 

Could also hang a drop off the top I guess. 

I'm a cardboard hoarder. Especially big pieces. The stuff is so handy. Anytime I'm at a job where the people are moving in, or getting new appliances or something I scavenge the cardboard. Some of the best is the boxes large door screens come in.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

What about DTM?


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> What about DTM?


Why not?
Is that thing really hard and glossy still? Pics u really can't tell but it looks so
Hey a way to check it as aluminum. If u didn't already. A magnet. Doesn't stick to aluminum. Scrapper science.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Oden said:


> Why not?
> Is that thing really hard and glossy still? Pics u really can't tell but it looks so
> Hey a way to check it as aluminum. If u didn't already. A magnet. Doesn't stick to aluminum. Scrapper science.


It's faded but smooth. Good tip about the magnet. :notworthy:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> Seems like if I use the airless around 75% of the paint is going to be wasted in overspray. I would have my helper on the side I wasn't spraying move a 4' by 8" sheet of "something" to catch the overspray (fence is a little over 6' high). Any ideas on what that "something" should be? Seems like it won't take very long to get quite a build up on it.


We use a big drop cloth, one golds it up while on a 4 or 6 foot step


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

try Breakthrough if you want fast dry, we use it on pool enclosure 

painting exterior warehouse doors & frames next week with it


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I'd be inclined to use a conventional set up. HVLP perhaps. I'd prefer to shoot a water borne DTM like PPG Pitt Tech Plus, but would also shoot a two component polyurethane or polysiloxane given the same logistics. However, the waterborne becomes somewhat dry fall at around thirty feet depending on the weather, where as the others will travel until they find something to stick to. And that could be a ways depending on the wind.

I just don't think the rattle cans are going to provide proper build and UV protection.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Hey @SemiproJohn, if you end up doing this job,

will you please update this thread with product and process?

And what--if anything--you would do different next time.

TIA.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I paint paint said:


> Hey @*SemiproJohn*, if you end up doing this job,
> 
> will you please update this thread with product and process?
> 
> ...


Absolutely. I'm still debating whether to use DTM (Sherwin Williams) or PPG Breakthrough (I haven't used this before and am really interested based upon the recommendations from Repaint, Jmays, and others).


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Breakthrough is awesome. It'll stick to anything. Pitt Tech is great too. 

I would echo the recommendation of a conventional or HVLP set up.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

journeymanPainter said:


> Breakthrough is awesome. It'll stick to anything. Pitt Tech is great too.
> 
> I would echo the recommendation of a conventional or HVLP set up.


I don't have an hvlp. I just got a brand new 390PC from Graco. I thought I would give it a shot...I realize I'm going to have to deal with more overspray than if using an hvlp. Rails are 5 3/4" apart, and only 5/8" wide (most of them. The gates are a little wider). If I get the job I will try using a 310 to paint two rails, two sides at a time. If that gets too messy, I would try a 210. If that gets to unwieldy, mini-roller everything.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I'd use a airless regardless
And I'd go right to a .209. So a 210 if that is ur standard


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm currently spraying some metal deck railing in my shop using BM HP alkyd urethane aluminum gloss. The metallic aluminum gloss finish looks really good. 









One of the 70 lb plates


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I'm pretty sure all this aluminum was powder coated. I've done some research and get conflicting answers as to what is the proper paint to use over powder coatings and whether a primer is necessary. Anyone experienced with this and, if so, what would you recommend? Is PPG Breakthrough still a viable candidate, or is a 2 component system necessary?


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

SemiproJohn said:


> Seems like if I use the airless around 75% of the paint is going to be wasted in overspray. I would have my helper on the side I wasn't spraying move a 4' by 8" sheet of "something" to catch the overspray (fence is a little over 6' high). Any ideas on what that "something" should be? Seems like it won't take very long to get quite a build up on it.


Customer pays for the paint. And paint is cheaper than labor. Ff tip, DTM (I like ppg Pitt tech ) 6ft ladder, some clips and a helper. knock it outta the park!


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I just finished priming about 900 linear feet of metal handrail with SW Pro Cryl and will use SW Sher Cry HPA as the top coat. That would be another good contender if you wanna use a waterborne product.



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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

SemiproJohn said:


> I'm submitting a bid to paint an entry fence and some gates to an exclusive community in town. I looked at it yesterday and am 99% sure it is aluminum.
> 
> My initial thought was to just use a bunch of spray cans of Rustoleum or other exterior oil product that comes in spray cans in order to minimize overspray. I thought of using DTM as well, applying with a 210 ff tip. And I considered mini-rollers with the DTM.
> 
> ...



I don't live in an exclusive community, but that is almost the same gate that I installed at my home. I live amongst the hardwoods on some acreage and don't care for uninvited guests coming up the driveway. 

It is powder coated aluminum probably made by Ideal Aluminum Products. I was given a rattle can of touch up paint back in 2008, but have never needed to use it. They may be able to point you in the right direction for recommended painting products. 


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## Retired From Paint (Jun 12, 2011)

A 2 part solid light industrial urethane would be a good choice and a lot cheaper than an automotive urethane these products tend to have good color retention and have good gloss retention these products are used on expensive stuff because they provide the best performance


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Do you have any idea what the pot life any of the 2 part industrial urethanes have? The pot life can be a big issue with some products.


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