# Clear epoxy on concrete floor



## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I just got a job to do our local fed ex building. Its where they drive trucks inside to load and distibute packages. Definately a high traffic area. There are no specs for the job so its up to me to determine amount of mil needed. Do you think .10 mil would be enough.? Also it calls to be line strpped. Should I stripe before or after the clear epoxy?


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## ShermanMoore (Mar 23, 2014)

What's the product? Different products have different mil requirements. And I think you mean 10 mil, not .10? 10 mil would be the bottom end of a 100% solids epoxy (e.g ArmorSeal 650) dft, but if it's only high solids (e.g. ArmorSeal 1000), less than half that is called for (3-5 mil). Take a look at the data sheet for the product.


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## ShermanMoore (Mar 23, 2014)

As for the striping, I'd do that before the clear. If you stripe over a glossy clear, the adhesion will be poor and it will need to be redone sooner. If you clear over the lines, they will be embedded and protected.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I am looking at a product from PPG. For high traffic areas it calls for 10-20 mil. I was really hoping to get 10 mil on for drying purposes and budget . i have a 72 hour window for dry time before trucks roll in.. I havent checked out the armorseal yet but I will tommorow.


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## ShermanMoore (Mar 23, 2014)

Is the product a 100% solids epoxy like MegaSeal SL? If so, keep in mind that while you get high film build with these coatings (10 mil will suffice), more extensive surface profiling (grinding) is advisable than with other lower-solids coatings.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I left my data sheet at work. i hear what your saying. I was planning on grinding every thing instead of etching. Its about 5 years old with no sealer on it but plenty of grease and tire marks. I already have made plans to do samples first before application. My main concern is dry time 72 hours and they roll in


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## ShermanMoore (Mar 23, 2014)

24-48 hours is generally sufficient dry time for vehicle traffic. Just make sure you prep it well, there's nothing like a floor complaint.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Some products can be driven on an our or two after it's kicked, but I would definitely do your lines first

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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

Prep prep prep. I never diamond grinded yet hopefully one day I will. Just the thought of grinding down the floor gets me all exited. Certainly beats blasting gallons of water at it to clear the etch.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I went ahead and gave an estimate for using PPG PSX 700 clear. Its 80% solids goes on at 5 mil dries to 3. The can says 430 sgft pr gal at $126.00 per gal but added 20% in extra product for bid.
I cant wait to do my demo. Plan is to spray and no backroll. Spray and backroll, then sqeegee with 5 mil applicator and backroll to see what works best. I am betting that I can spray and no back roll and get the desired mil with most amount of coverage. Only a guess though. Never really sprayed an epoxy floor but it sounds like it would be ideal for this application.


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## painter213 (Nov 5, 2008)

When spraying a concrete floor one should ALWAYS back roll. That is common practice.


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## painter213 (Nov 5, 2008)

And if you want to estimate your coverage rate. Take 1,604 sq ft per gallon and then divide by required mils. Then you have to subtract the amount of solvent in each gallon. This will give you your sq ft per gallon at X amount of mils applied. And then you will need to subtract for any loss due to transfer efficiency. Spray will be higher. Pour and squeegee will be less.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

painter213 said:


> When spraying a concrete floor one should ALWAYS back roll. That is common practice.


 Totally agree with you but this is a new product and its worth a test.
I called the 1 800 number and there rep is saying that backroll wasnt needed. I really have to do a sample before i get ahead of myself but hey if it works It will save me tons of man hours.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

painter213 said:


> And if you want to estimate your coverage rate. Take 1,604 sq ft per gallon and then divide by required mils. Then you have to subtract the amount of solvent in each gallon. This will give you your sq ft per gallon at X amount of mils applied. And then you will need to subtract for any loss due to transfer efficiency. Spray will be higher. Pour and squeegee will be less.


 I came up with 320 sqft per gal using my system for mil sqeegee. Of course it will depend on how much I juice it though. My end goal is to acheive 3 mil dry so if it takes more then it will get it.


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## IPCSpecialists (Feb 6, 2014)

I would highly suggest back-rolling. I have never NOT seen a floor back-rolled after material had been transferred to it via sprayer. It's common practice. Good luck. Personally, I would go with an ICRI-CSP 3 or greater and 8-10 mils of a clear 100% solids epoxy, like Tnemec Series 201.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

IPCSpecialists said:


> I would highly suggest back-rolling. I have never NOT seen a floor back-rolled after material had been transferred to it via sprayer. It's common practice. Good luck. Personally, I would go with an ICRI-CSP 3 or greater and 8-10 mils of a clear 100% solids epoxy, like Tnemec Series 201.


 I went ahead and cleaned some test areas. The floor itself is really smooth. Not sure if I can do a 10 mil app without grinding. The reason i am trying out the PPg 700 is for Voc and drytime. people will be working in building 24 hours a day so i just need to make sure not to get any complaints from smell or fumes. Honestly i havent ever done any floors except new construction or complete renovations. Anyfeed back on products i am open to suggestions.


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