# Fiberglass door fiasco



## giantsean (Oct 24, 2017)

I am re-doing an entryway for a local customer and somehow got talked into fixing up her door slab. It's a Jeld-Wen "mahogany look" typical pinky slab. 
It is not cracked but from the looks of it, whoever installed it slapped on some gel stain and cheap poly and called it a day, and it is very badly faded. The slab is only a few years old and she doesn't want me to remove and strip it (though I don't blame her because stripping FG also sucks). 

It gets full sun from the east and I hate gel stain, especially on FG... tried it on my own door for about three seconds before made a mess and decided to painted it. I was leaning toward Cetol D&W in Mahogany thinking it wouldn't peel, but you're supposed to strip. Asked around at the paint store and I was told I might be able to get away w/ the Cetol over Old Master's graining base, which from what I can tell is pink paint. Not sure if Cetol will stick to this stuff or if it's just a waste of time.

Has anyone tried this before w/ Cetol, or will the base only work with regular stain?

Thanks


----------



## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

https://buyat.ppg.com/REP_PafPaintTools_files/Sikkens US/tdb/SIK480-490.pdf

I sell TONS of cetol but never tried it my self with FB. To be honest it ever even occurred to me.
I imagine not a lot of people have used this product on fiberglass.
anyway:


> Fiberglass Door –
> Contac PPG ProLuxe Wood Finishes Technical Support for further details.


----------



## giantsean (Oct 24, 2017)

Yeah staining the unstainable (with any product) is almost the definition of insanity lol. I am half hoping I can talk her into painting with responses


----------



## Haris (Aug 23, 2017)

If I was in your shoes I would tell the customer after talking to a few different sales reps in paint stores painting it solid color is the only safe option for her door, she can always pick a color that is close to her existing slab. I've used Cetol a lot but never over gel stain and I don't think that'll work, painting it would be the safe approach.


----------



## giantsean (Oct 24, 2017)

Haris said:


> If I was in your shoes I would tell the customer after talking to a few different sales reps in paint stores painting it solid color is the only safe option for her door, she can always pick a color that is close to her existing slab. I've used Cetol a lot but never over gel stain and I don't think that'll work, painting it would be the safe approach.


Yeah I hear that. Technically it will be putting it over the graining paint, but maybe six of one and half dozen of another. IIRC the fiberglass "base" on a new slab is just pink coated or molded surface, so I can see how theoretically it might work. My guess is the Sikkens folks warn against doing that for a wood door due to different properties on a surface that will see movement. I am most worried about how it will look and last.


----------



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

giantsean said:


> Yeah I hear that. Technically it will be putting it over the graining paint, but maybe six of one and half dozen of another. IIRC the fiberglass "base" on a new slab is just pink coated or molded surface, so I can see how theoretically it might work. My guess is the Sikkens folks warn against doing that for a wood door due to different properties on a surface that will see movement. I am most worried about how it will look and last.


Advise her of all the options, it will confuse the crap out of her, then offer a simple solution that will out last any stain/clear option.paint.
I think ya just gotta sell her unless you want to strip it and start over.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

clean it, sand it a bit, use Cali Gripcoat primer, (where available) and do a wood grain faux finish. If you don't have access to California paint where you are you should probably move.


----------



## Haris (Aug 23, 2017)

Just today I had a client call me regarding a FB front door that we gel stained earlier this year using Old Masters dark walnut color. It turned out great but there is one blotchy spot on the door, no idea why we've done hundreds of FB doors over the years and it never happened before. There is also 2 more FB doors we did on the same house and they look great. When client asked me what are his options and how can we fix it I told him the only option would be to paint it using a similar color to dark walnut gelstain. So I brought out my BM color book he picked out a color he likes and I went to BM picked up a gallon of Aura low lustre exterior paint and one of my guys will go there Thursday and get it painted. The more options you give to the client the more confusing it gets for them and they start thinking more and more about it. I like keeping it simple whenever I can and it works 95% of the time for me, I left the customer's house with a smile on his face appreciating that I stopped by the same day to check it out and that I'll send a guy to fix it 2 days later. Everyone is happy.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

It's actually a fairly easy fix, but it does take time. 

You'd have to sand it, clean it, prime, paint, re-stain, and seal.

So as you can tell that's about 6 steps involved, more like 7, but anyway...time consuming for just 1 slab (front) and then rinse/repeat for the back. 

I think others have covered it pretty well. Scuff sand, clean, prime, and paint. Done. 

Use a high grade exterior paint and that door won't fade or change color for a long time, if it has an over hang it could last 10 years or more without any issues what so ever. 

My vote: Scuff sand 120 grit, bonding primer, 2 coats of duration exterior - satin. Done. Collect the check.


----------



## giantsean (Oct 24, 2017)

woodcoyote said:


> It's actually a fairly easy fix, but it does take time.
> 
> You'd have to sand it, clean it, prime, paint, re-stain, and seal.
> 
> ...


This lady won't budge... hates the painted look 

Last idea - I can indeed get California Grip locally. What if I tint it to the same pinky color as the graining base... will Cetol stick to that? If not I'll just solid stain and spar varnish and run for the hills.

You know... or else this  youtube.com/watch?v=mvB9_JiNPIw


----------

