# Yellow Stripes?



## IndianapolisPainters (Sep 2, 2011)

Got a call for yellow stripes, like in a parking lot, but this is for an industrial building so the stripes have to be very straight and the client is asking for something that "lasts as long as possible". I've never painted parking lot stripes or anything and I know there are several ways/equipment that can be used. I know nothing about any of these methods however. Any recommendations? Thanks!

Brad
indianapolispainters.com


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Follow the city/county laws for widths of space and handicap requirements if you are not painting back over existing lines. As far as products talk to your rep. Rent a line striper or buy one if you have other customers lined up for the service.


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

If it's interior I would go with PPG Aquapon with their clear topcoat. However, this seems to be an area that your experience is limited. You may be better off passing on the job or subbing it to a company that is geared for that type of work.


----------



## IndianapolisPainters (Sep 2, 2011)

I forgot to mention that this was interior. There are some existing stripes and probably some new ones. The floor is very smooth. Do those stripe machines do really crisp lines?


----------



## IndianapolisPainters (Sep 2, 2011)

I was curious to know if there was some sort of thing like a roll of tape? I hope that doesn't make me sound like I'm off my rocker but I've sworn I've seen something like that before that you can coat over with a clear flooring system. The good news is that it doesn't have to be reflective or anything like that. 

Yep I do totally lack experience in this area but gotta get it somehow  But, if it is insanely hard then it's probably something I don't want to offer much... is it tough?


----------



## IndianapolisPainters (Sep 2, 2011)

Lambrecht said:


> If it's interior I would go with PPG Aquapon with their clear topcoat. However, this seems to be an area that your experience is limited. You may be better off passing on the job or subbing it to a company that is geared for that type of work.


Just noticed that you were from Indiana.. you wouldn't happen to be around Indianapolis would you?


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

IndianapolisPainters said:


> Just noticed that you were from Indiana.. you wouldn't happen to be around Indianapolis would you?


Just sent you a PM.


----------



## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

There is a member here (We Do Lines) I would contact him.


----------



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Having just overseen such a job- aisle markings in a steel mill- I'll tell you what they did:

For surface prep they had a zamboni-like machine that beat / sanded / cleaned the area, removing the surface seal of the concrete. Remember- nearly all exposed concrete gets a coat or two of 'sealer' from the concrete contractor. This is akin to a thin varnish on the porous concrete. That topmost concrete has to go away or paint won't stick nearly as well.

Next was a very labor-intensive taping, followed by sealing the tape edges with a 'dry' brush.

Then came the layers of paint. Paint (epoxy), sprinkle white sand, let cure halfway, paint again, clean ordinary sand, then paint again.

This was for the 4-ft wide 'aisle.' After the paint was mostly cured, more tape was laid on the painted area, and contrasting border striping was done.

When the tape was removed - run a razor along the edges to ensure a clean break - there was still some hand labor removing what paint had seeped under the tape edge.

The other little surprise is that you'll probably have to build little bridges over your work, so folks won't walk on them. 4x4's and plywood should do it.


----------



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

I'd sub it out to a striping company, and make $$$ off their expertise.


----------



## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

Totally agree with PWG.
They are already equipped, experienced, faster and knowledgeable on the procedure. Plus no risk of doing it improperly and being liable for correcting it.

Sub it out and make a fiver.


----------



## IndianapolisPainters (Sep 2, 2011)

Thanks for all the info guys. I've been away on a bit of a holiday break so sorry for my late response.

While I'd like to get some experience with this I think you guys are right.. I'm going to have to call someone else. I'm too busy to take something like this on after hearing some of the "how-to" stuff". Sounds like more than I want to bite off right now.

I'm relativly new to the forum... are they're any stripe guys located in the Indianapolis area that are members here before I start searching around?


----------



## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Tape um and paint um.


----------



## J R Painting (May 9, 2011)

I'm looking to get into this as well, but at square 1. I'm probably going to get a $100 cart that sprays the inverted cans just to start. I figure I can work into a real machine later if I get the business to pay for it. 

My question is will I be sorry I started on the cheap? I've never used the cart, or done any striping, for that matter. 

What I want to know is has anyone started out this way and do you recommend it? 

Also, how do those carts work? Can you make a curved line? Or are you limited to just straight shots? I saw a youtube vid for some rustoleum products, but only available in Europe! What the?! They looked cool. One was a 2-wheeled deal for making curved lines and the other was a side handle so you could spray a line right up next to a curb.
Here's the link:
RUST-OLEUM HARD HAT LINE MARKER


----------



## J R Painting (May 9, 2011)

Anyone?...


----------



## momule (Feb 5, 2010)

I have used this product many times for industrial striping both interior and exterior. If you want it to last it should be a urethane. 

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26099:product-6810


----------

