# Spraying a popcorn ceiling-Best flat Paint?



## papernpaste (Dec 10, 2009)

Well, I'm finally preparing to start a townhouse in three days. 
I'm ready to try out my new Graco 395. Bought serveral tips so that, once I get into it, I may graduate to that Wide RacX that shoots a 12-14" wide swath on the end of a 10" extension.  
The popcorn ceilings are going to get an off white (flat)that goes with the Wall color- BM Monroe Bisque *medium, calm brown (eggshell luster). I need to color match the current trim paint since most of the doors and jams are in good shape. I'll be spraying the rest of the trim (baseboards, partition caps, window sills, etc.) with BM Waterborne Satin Impervo. 
I'm thinking that, in order to eliminate as much taping as possible, I'm going to spray the trim, first. Fortunately, almost all of the doors and jams were done recently so I can bag them. Once the trim cures, I'll spray the walls. Once they are dry, I'll mask the walls at the ceiling and spray the ceilings last. 
So, here in Northern Delaware, I have access to BM, S/W, Behr, Valspar, and there's a PPG store that I've never been in, too. I usually paint BM paints but, since I'm spraying popcorn, I want to be totally done after cross-spraying the ceiling. There's a stress crack in the ceiling wallboard. I would love to spray that with something that would make it go away after two passes. Any ideas? This ceiling is popcorn, twenty years old and hasn't been painted since the build. I'd like to spray it with something that is going to seal it down on the first spray coat. Again, since this will be a first for me (spraying a popcorn ceiling), I'm open to suggestions (date I say this? "hopefully, suggestions with experience behind them." LOL:icon_cheesygrin:


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

That stress crack probably won't disappear after 2 coats of paint, no matter what type of paint you use. When the paint dries, the crack will reveal itself again. I hope I'm wrong.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Sherwin/Williams Pro-Mar 400 flat is all I use on ceilings because it is dead flat and touches up easy, not that you would need to touch up a popcorn lid. you will want to use a 3' spray wand, your neck and shoulders will thank you right away,instead of a 10" wand. First coat will look funky as it dries, don't be tempted to spray more till it is dty. Second coat you can put on more as it is sealed.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

The crack if you want it to go away I'd caulk it and wipe off the excess real nice. Best way to handle it really. The important part is getting the excess off of the face. 

It seems counterintuitive but IMO popcorn ceilings look better in eggshell. It's a popcorned ceiling it's not like flat is gonna 'hide' that. Eggshell they just to me look better. We always use the promar 200 and yeh checkerboard it once and ur fine. I like a .417 or a .517. But really for just a few ceilings or two a .15 is fast enuff and maybe a bit more easy to control in a home.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I use BM ultra spec flat for those. No problems. Like Oden said caulk the crack and remove excess.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I spray them all the time. Caulk the crack for sure use a .517 tip and cross hatch it easy peezy. I like to use SW masterhide on them. 

If it were me I'd spray the ceiling then trim and brush roll the walls. 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## marinerito (Oct 3, 2008)

for me the best Flat paint is from Cloverdale Paint ,my local store


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

papernpaste said:


> Well, I'm finally preparing to start a townhouse in three days.
> I'm ready to try out my new Graco 395. Bought serveral tips so that, once I get into it, I may graduate to that Wide RacX that shoots a 12-14" wide swath on the end of a 10" extension.
> The popcorn ceilings are going to get an off white (flat)that goes with the Wall color- BM Monroe Bisque *medium, calm brown (eggshell luster). I need to color match the current trim paint since most of the doors and jams are in good shape. I'll be spraying the rest of the trim (baseboards, partition caps, window sills, etc.) with BM Waterborne Satin Impervo.
> I'm thinking that, in order to eliminate as much taping as possible, I'm going to spray the trim, first. Fortunately, almost all of the doors and jams were done recently so I can bag them. Once the trim cures, I'll spray the walls. Once they are dry, I'll mask the walls at the ceiling and spray the ceilings last.
> So, here in Northern Delaware, I have access to BM, S/W, Behr, Valspar, and there's a PPG store that I've never been in, too. I usually paint BM paints but, since I'm spraying popcorn, I want to be totally done after cross-spraying the ceiling. There's a stress crack in the ceiling wallboard. I would love to spray that with something that would make it go away after two passes. Any ideas? This ceiling is popcorn, twenty years old and hasn't been painted since the build. I'd like to spray it with something that is going to seal it down on the first spray coat. Again, since this will be a first for me (spraying a popcorn ceiling), I'm open to suggestions (date I say this? "hopefully, suggestions with experience behind them." LOL:icon_cheesygrin:


Ummm. Is it just me, or... spray finish walls on a repaint? And spray the ceiling last? Giving an opinion on ceiling paint at this point seems irrelevant. . What's wrong with a paintbrush and roller? Seeing as this is your first spray job and all..
Especially if the trim is in good shape already. Your gonna burn so much time and money in taping stuff off. Just spray the ceilings then switch to a brush and roller..


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I like to seal them first with Bin. Had one completely fall off once. Then a coat of CHB


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I like to seal them first with Bin. Had one completely fall off once. Then a coat of CHB


Do you actually run BIN through your sprayer?!:blink:


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I Have. But most of these job are brush and roller. Plus I feel I get heavier millage by rolling it. I want it sealed. One or two ceilings not worth dragging out a pump. Bin is my preferred sealer for a lot of things for one reason. It cleans up with ammonia water. Start with a hit of ammonia in the pump and hoses then spray your bin then clean with a ammonia. I like to start with about 50/50 water. Never had a problem with it clogging up.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Here is a popcorn ceiling I sprayed. I used Eminence and I sprayed in both directions, also called cross hatching. The ceiling is actually bright white but the old light makes it look yellow


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## philcav7 (Sep 12, 2013)

Caulk is the way to go if it's a stress crack. Things move over time and the caulk remains flexible. I recently ran into this where a knee wall carrying the roof was placed over a beam in the ceiling. Snow and wind loads cause movement that cracked the drywall. Tape joints that fail should be retaped. If it is a stress crack, set expectations of covering a potential hidden problem. 


90% of my paint work is rolled. My favorite has been the pro mar 200 ceiling. Nice and flat, no flashing, no roller marks, it finishes well. For a popcorn job, I'd be willing to use cheap paint since the texture hides most painting sins.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

If your looking for cheap paint and your using sw products use either masterhide flat or painters edge they are both dead flats and finish real nice with a cross hatch. Or just spend the money on 400 flat (only 18$ gallon for me) and get the nicest finish possible. 508 is a waste of money and ultra spec is too expensive around my parts. SW and bm are the majors in my area


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## centralalbertapaint (Jun 30, 2015)

I agree with the guy up top there, caulk the crack and carry on, as far as what kind flat paint, I don't think it really matters, just be sure you know what your doing with that sprayer is all!


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## canopainting (Feb 12, 2013)

When you cross hatch do you spray in the opposite direction immediately after the first direction or do you apply the second direction as a second coat?


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I spray one direction, let it dry, spray second coat at 90 degree angle to the first. I always let it dry, at least almost dry, so I don't have to worry about the popcorn being too saturated. The stuff is bad enough with out getting it too wet and maybe coming loose.


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## paf9485 (Jun 8, 2015)

A lot of my customers have had great success spraying a coat of Zinsser Guardz on popcorn before top coating it. The product is thin enough that it soaks into the popcorn. It dries harder than the popcorn itself, giving the ceiling more strength and stability. Top it with your favorite ceiling paint (of course I will recommend a PPG product like Speedhide Pro EV).

On another note, make sure you don't get too big of a Wide Rac tip. The 395 can only support up to a .23" tip.

Dave


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## thamberg (Jun 11, 2012)

marinerito said:


> for me the best Flat paint is from Cloverdale Paint ,my local store


Which of their paints do you like the most? We have Rodda (who Cloverdale bought out a few years ago) here in the Pacific NW, and I've gotten the chance to use a few Cloverdale products that they carry.

I really like the Ecologic washable flat & eggshell line, also the Super Acrylic 2, the Renaissance hybrid, and the Sharkskin solid stain. All great products.


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## DynaPLLC (Oct 25, 2013)

First , I'd suggest applying something other than Impervo acrylic on the trim - way too soft.

Second, the ceiling can be done two ways , depending on how much you charged and how much time you want it to take. 

If that popcorn has nothing on it, seal it with a primer like PPG Speedhide sealer, then topcoat with a flat or low sheen paint. Any would work really, it comes down to how much you wanna pay for it. BM Ceiling paint is really nice but 30$+ /gallon.

If paint only , no sealer, I suggest spraying in one direction pretty heavily with a 517 tip, and have another guy back roll. While paint is still wet, spray in the other direction(explained above), a nice even coat (no back-roll) and let it dry. You're done.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Seriously. Back roll on a pop on ceiling??


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Yeah, the main reason spraying popcorn is the way to go is so you don't have to touch it with a roller. 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## DynaPLLC (Oct 25, 2013)

Why not back roll with a 1" nap? I always do on previously painted popcorn. I force the paint in all those crevices, followed by a sprayed coat and no back roll.

If you have unpainted pop, well, everything is gonna stick to the roller and you might take portions off that wet mud popcorn.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

DynaPLLC said:


> Why not back roll with a 1" nap? I always do on previously painted popcorn. I force the paint in all those crevices, followed by a sprayed coat and no back roll.
> 
> If you have unpainted pop, well, everything is gonna stick to the roller and you might take portions off that wet mud popcorn.


I thought you were referring to unpainted popcorn, now it makes more sense. I still don't on previously painted stuff but I guess it couldn't hurt as long as it sealed nice and not loose anywhere.


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