# Small wall covering repair job



## Different Strokes

I could use some advice. I'm not a wall covering guy, I've run a paste table long enough to watch the guys do it to have a good idea of the fundamentals . They walled of an entry and skim coated it with mud. The client would like both sides of the new wall covered in the wall covering they will supply. (they have a bolt left over in the closet I will use)

It's commercial vinyl, prob 54" wide I believe.

There are flaps of existing wall covering on both sides (where they cut the wallpaper back to put the new rock in) that I can paste back down, hang a new sheet of vinyl in the middle, overlap the flaps and then double cut the left and right seams. Does this sound like a good way to go? Would you suggest that I use a vinyl-over-vinyl paste for the existing flaps since they already have some dried glue on them? I plan to use either gardz of shieldz to prime. 

Since it's skimmed, would you recommend priming twice to really seal up the mud? any advice is appreciated.


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## daArch

D.S.

First, do NOT use VOV for that. That's overkill and will make future stripping IMPOSSIBLE.

If it's 54" vinyl, isn't there enough to go from the corner out to the electrical plates? It would be easier, IMO, to remove the flaps and piece in new paper from the corner out as far as you can and then double cut into a solidly pasted edge. Also less seams. 
But that opinion is based from only from viewing a picture, I'm not on site.

I would prime the new area with two coats of Gardz. Being a person who has been burned by Shieldz, I would not use it (some folks swear by it and some folks swear AT it).

Hang new piece with strippable clay, 234, 880, or even 838

I would just sand the old paste to knock down any roughness. 

PWG will correct any errors I have spewed, he is far more experienced than I with 54" vinyl.


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## Wood511

Good luck with this. I'm not versed in coverings, but I have to ask if you know why that plug is 8 inches from the ceiling? Sorry I was just dying to know.


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## Different Strokes

thanks a bunch Bill! 
Wood- no idea why that is up there. i will have to see what is plugged into it next time i'm there lol. maybe for a wallmount tvscreen or something.


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## chrisn

Different Strokes said:


> thanks a bunch Bill!
> Wood- no idea why that is up there. i will have to see what is plugged into it next time i'm there lol. maybe for a wallmount tvscreen or something.


 
Sure does not look like any 54 inch, vinyl I have ever seen, just sayin


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## daArch

chrisn said:


> Sure does not look like any 54 inch, vinyl I have ever seen, just sayin


That was my first thought, but I am sure he knows what it is. Also, what but commercial vinyl would peel back like that ? Ever seen a resy paper do that?


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## Paradigmzz

Wood511 said:


> Good luck with this. I'm not versed in coverings, but I have to ask if you know why that plug is 8 inches from the ceiling? Sorry I was just dying to know.



back in the day, when TV's were huge (13") there was probably a shelf up here for one....


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## Different Strokes

Believe it or not it is 54''. I measured the extra bolt in storage. Like I said, my experience with wallcoverings is very limited. It felt like very light weight vinyl to me. Either way, i really appreciate the help on this. This is the only area in the dentist office that needs the wallcovering repair. the rest is paint work thank god


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## chrisn

daArch said:


> That was my first thought, but I am sure he knows what it is. Also, what but commercial vinyl would peel back like that ? Ever seen a resy paper do that?


 
True, true:notworthy:


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## faux

Trim it from the corner about 1/8 
Find the patter match on the right-side piece 
Trim new wallcovering down to about a 2” overlap (So you’re not wrestling with it)
Remove old paper from right leaving about 1 ½ for the double-cut
Wash off all old paste then prime and seal
Paste down the original 1 ½ on right (Hang before this dries) 
Position and hang wallcovering then double-cut on right
Trim corner (Be carefully not to cut through the 1/8 you left in step #1)

I hope this helps
If this is confusing or you have any questions you can always call
Michael
(888) 378-FAUX


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## Different Strokes

Thanks Faux. I will probably have to stay out of the corner about 2" onto the wall for my cut on the left though. The existing covering wasnt pushed into the corner so there is a small air pocket between the covering and the inside corner. It just sort of wraps the inside corner, there is no crease.


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## faux

This might do it…

If it isn’t tight, and there is a air pocket you might be able to just get a blade under the paper and pop it off the wall. You will need to first cut it close to the air pocket. 
Then get some paste under it and use the blade on a broad-knife to push it tight into the corner. 
Then make the 1/8 trim.

Sometimes that old wallpaper won’t want to lay/stick down.
1) A hair dryer might help
2) Use the Vinyl over Vinyl on the wall and the paper. *Note let the wall and the paper both setup like contact cement. Then use the blade of the knife like above, and make that cut. 

I would take the handle off a 10” broad-knife and use this for most of my cuts. Without the handle it would easily fit into my carpenters tool belt I used for my other tools like a 6" knife, rollers, blades and tape…

Then when I wanted that 1/8 cut I would the fat side of the knife. You know what I mean – I used it upside down…


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## daArch

DS,

I think Faux and I are on the same page, but let me babble on anyway.

Commercial inside corners are always wrapped. If it were my job, I'd pull the paper back to the corner (it should dry strip as easily as it did). Repaste the corner and using heat to soften the vinyl, set it well in the corner, as if it were a resi job.

Now trim "fat" on that "new" wall. (about 1/8"). Split the next sheet to match the pattern and start from the corner, again, just as if it were a normal resi job.

You may need a little VOV on that bit of 1/8" overlap.


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## Different Strokes

Bill, I enjoy the babbling. Sounds like you and Faux are saying essentially the same thing. I'm going to use the advice and give this a shot on Saturday. I'll take a few pictures and throw them on the end of this thread if it's not too embarrassing. 
I picked up a small container of 838 today, a paste brush, and a few other odds and ends. I plan on booking the vinyl for a couple minutes after I paste the backs. A couple minutes should be sufficient I would guess to let that paste set up. 

The other side of that wall is a closet, so it'll be two inside corners I can do the same thing with. :notworthy:


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## daArch

Yup,

we are giving essentially the same advise, so either we both have our heads where the sun don't shine, or we are giving advice with which you can play. Obviously every job is unique and you gotta invent little tricks within given parameters.

About the heat aspect. Some commercial installers I know use a frigging blow torch, but they are experienced and have water, a wet rag, and a fire extinguisher ready. A hair dryer is the safest, but will it heat the vinyl enough? I use a heat gun that throws out about 300 degrees. If I were more experienced and confident, I'd use a torch (propane, not MAPP)

My point? Be careful if you are unfamiliar with using heat.


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## NorthEast

daArch said:


> Commercial inside corners are always wrapped.


Just curious, why is it hung that way? I've come across this before and never learned a definitive reason, only my own guesses. (which I'll keep to myself because they probably sound stupid to someone other than me lol)


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## Different Strokes

I could only assume because vinyl in some instances can be a heavy material and can be tough (and or time consuming) trying to get the inside corners pushed back in there and getting it to stay put. I've seen enough guys wrapping outside corners and having problems to know that issues with this type material can be a bugger. Only a guess.


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## watson51

doesn't look like 54" goods to me. Seal off the new mud, make sure patch is smooth. Cut the lose stuff on the left to the corner but not all the way in the corner - leave 1/8th" leading into the new, patched wall. Paste down left-hand side, pattern match new material over this and work into the corner. Double cut the new overlay through to the re-attached section and wash the whole thing down. Weather this is commercial goods or not this s how I would do it. For a sealer you could use Zinser Guards or a good primer like Prep right or seal grip.


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## ProWallGuy

NorthEast said:


> Just curious, why is it hung that way? I've come across this before and never learned a definitive reason, only my own guesses. (which I'll keep to myself because they probably sound stupid to someone other than me lol)


Most specs on commercial jobs say no seams within 6" of inside or outside corners.


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## ProWallGuy

daArch said:


> Some commercial installers I know use a frigging blow torch, but they are experienced and have water, a wet rag, and a fire extinguisher ready.


I use a torch all the time, but don't have a fire extinguisher at hand. Should I?


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## daArch

According to Phil and Cliff it's a good idea. And I think (but what do I know) it may be a reg if your are using an open flame.


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## chrisn

I think bassman was being sarcastic , maybe?

Then again maybe not.


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## ThaiDyedGuy

ProWallGuy said:


> I use a torch all the time, but don't have a fire extinguisher at hand. Should I?


Anytime you're working with fire or high temp, you should have some way extinguishing a small fire. It would be worth it to me to occasionally have to spend $10-$20 on a small disposable if I never have to explain to a client how I burned their house down.


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## daArch

chrisn said:


> I think bassman was being sarcastic


Is that bassman










or bassman










You know how much I love heteronyms


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## RCP

daArch said:


> or bassman
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> You know how much I love heteronyms


And little bassman!:thumbup:


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## Different Strokes

Just wanna say thanks to all of you that took the time to help me out. 

I ended up seaming it a few inches out of the left inside corner after I repasted and pushed the vinyl back tight. That way I had enough to wrap the outside corner on the right side, instead of splitting the first piece and then adding another piece beside it to get around the outside corner. The other side of the wall was a breeze, It was the backwall of a closet and I did like you guys advised. Pasted and pushed vinyl into the corner, trimmed to leave about a 1/4" flap, layed in my new piece, trimmed down the corner only cutting through the top piece of vinyl. Then threw up some vinyl base and got paid. It was a good day.

Thanks again guys. 
Chris
ps. Wood, there was a shelf that once hung up there, that's why the outlet is so high.


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## RCP

That looks real nice, except for that ugly cord!:thumbsup:


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## daArch

RCP said:


> That looks real nice, except for that ugly cord!:thumbsup:



and the pattern is pretty hideous too. 

But the repair look good. :thumbup:

Glad we were able to help.


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## chrisn

daArch said:


> Is that bassman
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> or bassman
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> You know how much I love heteronyms


I said BASS man not, STING man


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## daArch

chrisn said:


> I said BASS man not, STING man


BTW, he's now the artist known as STUNG


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## tophat1111

I would spray the old paper and glue on wall with some water, to reactivate the old glue.
This will make it easier to work with the vinyl


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## chrisn

tophat1111 said:


> I would spray the old paper and glue on wall with some water, to reactivate the old glue.
> This will make it easier to work with the vinyl


 
*GLUE???:blink::blink::blink:*

How dare you come in here and post that word.:no::no::no:
Anyway this topic is way old.:yes:


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## daArch

That's the type of word that make divergent paperhangers bond.


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## chrisn

daArch said:


> That's the type of word that make divergent paperhangers bond.


 
good one, bond,even I get that:whistling2:


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