# Best Time Saver, Tool, "Trick"...



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi all,
After seeing all of the responses for the "I hate it when" thread, I was hoping that this thread might get a similar response.

Wondering what you have found to be you best time savers, tool, or "trick." Not looking for the obvious.

So, I will add my own to start it out. Dealing with the chemicals, sandpaper, and other crap all day, my hands were taking a beating. Cracking and very painful. Two things are helping--O'keefe's Working Hands hand cream, and I recently bought some cotton gloves that have rubber finger tips and palms for a little under $3.50, which I have been wearing when doing prep work. They have been helping a lot. So much that maybe I will no longer have to use the O'keefe's.


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Paying others to make me look good.


----------



## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

3M hand masker.


----------



## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

any profesional painter worth his salt would not complain about his delicate hands.


----------



## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

Fishing, hunting and camping this time of year.Calms my nerves and gets me ready for another hard week.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Pshhh.... Gloves are overrated. I prefer to use a pair of these...


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Vaseline for those delicate hands Pete!! 

Then put it around your eyes when you spray all day. Easy to wipe the gunk away and you won't feel like your eyelids are made of sandpaper when you blink.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Brian C said:


> any profesional painter worth his salt would not complain about his delicate hands.


I would rather complain and find a solution than deal with cracking and bleeding hands every winter--but I guess if you don't have to deal with the harsh winters of New England (my more "delicate hands" would probably do better in Australia) than you would not find this a problem.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Vaseline for those delicate hands Pete!!
> 
> Then put it around your eyes when you spray all day. Easy to wipe the gunk away and you won't feel like your eyelids are made of sandpaper when you blink.


Tried Vaseline, not as good as O'keefe's. But, I am trying to avoid even needing that this year. Last year my hands were killing me (many of my finger tips had really deep cracks) so much that I even went as far as putting on rubber gloves when washing paint brushes. It was a pain in the A#$.


----------



## The 3rd Coat (Aug 17, 2013)

I use nitrile gloves for everything from sanding to brushing. Double them up to get the best protection, while still being thin enough to give you a good feel.

Also, I avoid jobs that ask for oil based unless I'm absolutely desperate for work. Doesn't happen much, fortunately.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I use nitrile gloves for everything from sanding to brushing. Double them up to get the best protection, while still being thin enough to give you a good feel.
> 
> Also, I avoid jobs that ask for oil based unless I'm absolutely desperate for work. Doesn't happen much, fortunately.


3 coats and 2 pairs of gloves! Got it!:whistling2:


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

mudbone said:


> 3 coats and 2 pairs of gloves! Got it!:whistling2:


and don't forget the vaseline!!


----------



## The 3rd Coat (Aug 17, 2013)

mudbone said:


> 3 coats and 2 pairs of gloves! Got it!:whistling2:


Gets a bit nippy in the winter


----------



## squid (Dec 25, 2012)

Pete the Painter said:


> Tried Vaseline, not as good as O'keefe's. But, I am trying to avoid even needing that this year. Last year my hands were killing me (many of my finger tips had really deep cracks) so much that I even went as far as putting on rubber gloves when washing paint brushes. It was a pain in the A#$.


 Try Bag Balm, its udderly the best.

Coil your extension cords in 5's. 

Plastic totes, whether I'm hauling or storing stuff-irreplacable.


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Toolnut said:


> 3M hand masker.


Do you use it for blue tape?


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Pete,

I hear you about splits and cracks in the fingers during these winters. And since my hands are so much in water, mine take a beating and refuse to heal.

I've been looking for a good hand treatment, one that doesn't leave my hands greasy for a long time. Bag Balm and petroleum jelly are out of the question as far as not working into my hands. 

On the WW's dresser are a couple that aren't bad - Aveeno daily moisturizing lotion and CITRON honey and coriander hand therapy, but they leave some greasy residue.

What I like the best, so far, is CVS brand "aloe cool & fresh" light moisturizing lotion. 









Now if I could just remember to use it daily BEFORE I get those damn splits .....


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Best time saver I've found is don't read paint talk while at work.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

I suggest you might also try Mane -n Tail Hoofmaker on your hands.Its made for horses hooves.Its inexpensive and works great on chapped and cracked hands.Carpenter friend of mine turned me on to a container of it last winter and it really does wonders.Farm and home supplies carry it.


----------



## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I know this is an obvious one, but, to me the ultimate time saver is a simple, quality brush. A great brush with just the right amount of stiffness becomes an extension of your hand and you can cut in around window trim, ceilings, and baseboard in minutes. Nothing more frustrating than picking up or buying a brush that is too soft to make those crisp cut lines we all crave. A good brush saves hours on the day sometimes.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Brian C said:


> any profesional painter worth his salt would not complain about his delicate hands.


Now that cracks me up!


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Gymschu said:


> I know this is an obvious one, but, to me the ultimate time saver is a simple, quality brush. A great brush with just the right amount of stiffness becomes an extension of your hand and you can cut in around window trim, ceilings, and baseboard in minutes. Nothing more frustrating than picking up or buying a brush that is too soft to make those crisp cut lines we all crave. A good brush saves hours on the day sometimes.


I agree the difference between a soft brush and a stiff one is huge. Save tons of time and avoid a lot of frustration by using a stiff brush. I can foresee some innuendo comments concerning soft and stiff brushes.


----------



## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Pete the Painter said:


> I would rather complain and find a solution than deal with cracking and bleeding hands every winter--but I guess if you don't have to deal with the harsh winters of New England (my more "delicate hands" would probably do better in Australia) than you would not find this a problem.


Take care of your hands Pete. Mine are trashed from a lifetime of abuse. They are swollen and covered in cracks from eczema and rarely heal and it sucks. 
You might also look into barrier creams.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Bender said:


> Take care of your hands Pete. Mine are trashed from a lifetime of abuse. They are swollen and covered in cracks from eczema and rarely heal and it sucks.
> You might also look into barrier creams.


Take care of your hands for Pete's sake!:whistling2:


----------



## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Pete the Painter said:


> Do you use it for blue tape?


Yes usually 1" sometimes 1 1/2 inch I use it a lot when doing ceiling work like popcorn removal. The plastic rolls come in 2' 4' 6' and 9' lengths. Run it around the ceiling which takes about 15 minutes then pull the plastic down to 9', the wall windows and doors are covered and you have 1' left at the bottom to put your drops on. And the plastic is clingy against the wall so it isn't always blowing. Use the 6' for doorways and the 2 and 4' for windows if you working on the walls. It has cut my masking time by half or more


----------



## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Toolnut said:


> Yes usually 1" sometimes 1 1/2 inch I use it a lot when doing ceiling work like popcorn removal. The plastic rolls come in 2' 4' 6' and 9' lengths. Run it around the ceiling which takes about 15 minutes then pull the plastic down to 9', the wall windows and doors are covered and you have 1' left at the bottom to put your drops on. And the plastic is clingy against the wall so it isn't always blowing. Use the 6' for doorways and the 2 and 4' for windows if you working on the walls. It has cut my masking time by half or more


I do the same. I prefer the 1 1/4'' to the 1" tape for most work.


----------



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

PVC coated drops instead of cloth. No more bleed throughs overnite. They're half as thick & twice as heavy though.


----------



## hotwing7 (Mar 31, 2012)

Well if we're talking beauty regime due to the nature of the job, my tip would be to get a conditioning brush to help untangle all the crappy chit that gets stuck in your hair


----------



## Greg-SHS (Sep 11, 2013)

For me one big time saver is putting a garbage bag inside a 5 gallon bucket before adding paint and roller screen. This saves bucket cleaning at the end of the day--just pull out the bag and cut the corner to deposit remaining paint in the paint storage can and then throw away the bag.


----------



## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

hotwing7 said:


> Well if we're talking beauty regime due to the nature of the job, my tip would be to get a conditioning brush to help untangle all the crappy chit that gets stuck in your hair


Or you can just shave your head and problem solved. Look at my head.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

This stuff has multiple uses..

Pat


----------



## rjensen ptg (Jun 9, 2011)

Pete the Painter said:


> Hi all,
> 
> So, I will add my own to start it out. Dealing with the chemicals, sandpaper, and other crap all day, my hands were taking a beating. Cracking and very painful.
> 
> ...


----------



## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

PatsPainting said:


> This stuff has multiple uses..
> 
> Pat


Perhaps I can rub that stuff on the skin of my cracked head and face.


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

this works


----------



## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

The thread says best time saving? What hsnd lotion's have to do with time saving?


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Found out today, for the umpteenth time what wastes more time than anything - trying to rush.

How many times in a life do I have to learn this lesson ?


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Best time saver? Read all the previous threads on tips and tricks.


----------



## aroplate (Aug 21, 2013)

Good topic Pete, I'm sure everyone would agree that the best time saver ever invented is the trusty old weenie roller, aka: tank roller, some old timers call them tank rollers because you can roll behind the toilet tank, to me they're just weenie rollers, dip into paint and wipe off the end with a rag and you can almost cut in with it.

Here's another time saver tip, when you're spraying exteriors to concrete or any hard surface flooring, spray some spray adhesive on the concrete surface first, then you can mask the concrete with good tape adhesion.
Good one ;-)


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

South-FL-Painter said:


> The thread says best time saving? What hsnd lotion's have to do with time saving?


Lotion has saved me a few minute in the past.


----------



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

keep your mouth CLOSED when doing ceilings. Then you wont have to stop so much for a drink to wash it down...


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Damon T said:


> Best time saver? Read all the previous threads on tips and tricks.


 
better yet, don't open pt at all


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

daArch said:


> Found out today, for the umpteenth time what wastes more time than anything - trying to rush.
> 
> How many times in a life do I have to learn this lesson ?


I have had to learn that several times. I have also learned that I need to stop painting when I get real tired--make way too many mistakes when I do, and I wind up spending twice as much time fixing them afterwards.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Pete the Painter said:


> I have had to learn that several times. I have also learned that I need to stop painting when I get real tired--make way too many mistakes when I do, and I wind up spending twice as much time fixing them afterwards.



Energy Drinks :thumbsup:


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

I was cutting in base today and stumbled upon this trick. I normally use a stubby handle 2" angle trim brush, but was having trouble keeping the bristles on top of the base holding it the normal way. I flipped the brush over and started cutting in with the short end bristles. It was amazed at the clean crisp cut line I was able to achieve. Also by using the brush this way plenty of paint got below the top edge, so getting the flat part was a breeze as well.


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi (Oct 6, 2013)

MikeCalifornia said:


> I was cutting in base today and stumbled upon this trick. I normally use a stubby handle 2" angle trim brush, but was having trouble keeping the bristles on top of the base holding it the normal way. I flipped the brush over and started cutting in with the short end bristles. It was amazed at the clean crisp cut line I was able to achieve. Also by using the brush this way plenty of paint got below the top edge, so getting the flat part was a breeze as well.


Answer me this Mike, how long have you been painting?
Oh. My. Gosh!!!!!!!

You can actually FLIP the brush?!?! You mean it has two sides.

Bwahaha. 

So Im almost at seven years painting. Gee, I learned that pretty early. No one taught me.. I have fun with my brush manipulation! !

I like to call it the backstroke. 

Or in your case the back bristle stroke.


Lol. My best painter and I hum a little tune when cutting an awwsome line...

"It's all in the backstroke"

-luvya bklyn


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> Answer me this Mike, how long have you been painting?
> Oh. My. Gosh!!!!!!!
> 
> You can actually FLIP the brush?!?! You mean it has two sides.
> ...


It wasn't in the instruction manual when I bought the brush? 

Thanks for your d-bag comment anyway :thumbup:. Some of the posters on this site are not "SEVEN" year veterans like yourself :notworthy:. I just hope when I hit my seventh year of painting I won't have my head so far up my elitist @$$, that I won't forget the little people starting out .


----------



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> I was cutting in base today and stumbled upon this trick. I normally use a stubby handle 2" angle trim brush, but was having trouble keeping the bristles on top of the base holding it the normal way. I flipped the brush over and started cutting in with the short end bristles. It was amazed at the clean crisp cut line I was able to achieve. Also by using the brush this way plenty of paint got below the top edge, so getting the flat part was a breeze as well.


I am having a little trouble visualizing (I am am a visual learner) this. Was the brush upside down with the long bristles pointed toward the floor?


----------



## Pretty Handy Mandi (Oct 6, 2013)

Dang Mike, no need for name calling!

But while you are at it, the reason for my comment finding humor in what you said is because I am a Pollock.


So, I seem to be misunderstood. I am actually a very nice and sincere person. I tread on no one. So what if I have an extremely self righteous attitude about my superior painting abilities? I love what I do and I am damn good at it too!

So please refrain from calling me names, it is so uncouth. 


....p.s. Im still laughing


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Pretty Handy Mandi said:


> Dang Mike, no need for name calling!
> 
> But while you are at it, the reason for my comment finding humor in what you said is because I am a Pollock.
> 
> ...


What name did I call you? Your comment was d-bag, not a name call. Veteran, not a name call, I thought you would like tag. Elistist @$$ was referring to myself when I hit my seven year mark. 

If your are such a "very nice and sincere person, who does not tread on no one, but has an extremely self righteous attitude." Why even make that stupid post? Are you boosting your ego by putting others down? Why not go through the entire thread and comment about everyone's tricks. I have read through it many months ago, some stuff I already knew or do, some stuff I found useful. But, I wouldn't comment like you did.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

MikeCalifornia said:


> What name did I call you? Your comment was d-bag, not a name call. Veteran, not a name call, I thought you would like tag. Elistist @$$ was referring to myself when I hit my seven year mark.
> 
> If your are such a "very nice and sincere person, who does not tread on no one, but has an extremely self righteous attitude." Why even make that stupid post? Are you boosting your ego by putting others down? Why not go through the entire thread and comment about everyone's tricks. I have read through it many months ago, some stuff I already knew or do, some stuff I found useful. But, I wouldn't comment like you did.


She did say she loved ya at the end of her post.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

aroplate said:


> Good Here's another time saver tip, when you're spraying exteriors to concrete or any hard surface flooring, spray some spray adhesive on the concrete surface first, then you can mask the concrete with good tape adhesion.
> Good one ;-)


Here's a short cut for that (even though that's a legit technique)... on commercial when doing that, just roll out heavy tar paper along that edge, no adhesive, no masking, no drops, just spray. Let dry and roll it up..you can run out 30-40 ft on long walls.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Brian C said:


> any profesional painter worth his salt would not complain about his delicate hands.


Reading a lot of posts I have missed tonight. Yours deserved this meme..


----------



## hotwing7 (Mar 31, 2012)

I've been trying to find a suitable thread for this picture lol

My tip on how to use old paintbrushes - Merry Christmas  (no I didn't make them!)


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

hotwing7 said:


> I've been trying to find a suitable thread for this picture lol
> 
> My tip on how to use old paintbrushes - Merry Christmas  (no I didn't make them!)


Man, those are going on my list for included items in business Christmas gift baskets next year!

This is my current list:

1. Alcohol

Looks like I'll finally be adding a #2!!!


----------



## hotwing7 (Mar 31, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> Man, those are going on my list for included items in business Christmas gift baskets next year!
> 
> This is my current list:
> 
> ...


Aren't they a neat little idea - buy cheaper stubby brushes company name on the back - job done!


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

hotwing7 said:


> Aren't they a neat little idea - buy cheaper stubby brushes company name on the back - job done!


I have a few on are Christmas tree my sister made a few yrs.back Co.logo on back is a great idea!:thumbsup:


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Make a nice soft block for sanding by cutting a slice, into the edge of a sanding block an inch or more deep. Cut your paper "4 by "9 and wrap around block and tuck in. Make easy creases at corners and sand.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Working indoors and need an efficient dustpan right now? I do this on small jobs where I don't have a vac out, or I'm on high end work and clean a lived in area.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Also just ball it up and toss it!


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

ridesarize said:


> Working indoors and need an efficient dustpan right now? I do this on small jobs where I don't have a vac out, or I'm on high end work and clean a lived in area.


I cover/protect the floor always with paper. Is that a high end mobile home??


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I cover/protect the floor always with paper. Is that a high end mobile home??


I liked the idea of using taped paper as a substitute dustpan. But I too had to wonder why the floors weren't covered.


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

RH said:


> I liked the idea of using taped paper as a substitute dustpan. But I too had to wonder why the floors weren't covered.


Dust pan/broom combo is like $5


----------



## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> Working indoors and need an efficient dustpan right now? I do this on small jobs where I don't have a vac out, or I'm on high end work and clean a lived in area.


Yikes!!!


----------



## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> Make a nice soft block for sanding by cutting a slice, into the edge of a sanding block an inch or more deep. Cut your paper "4 by "9 and wrap around block and tuck in. Make easy creases at corners and sand.


Old school!! ;-)


----------



## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Dust pan/broom combo is like $5


Lol... Brooms are for chicks shop vac bro...


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I cover/protect the floor always with paper. Is that a high end mobile home??


Actually this is a remodel, floors are being sanded and stained spice brown. I always use 4 ft floor paper but we were doing preliminary prep in an area with other trades working, tools all over. In most repaint interios I use paper instead of drops so I bring in no old dust, you can vac on it, so I understand the pic doesn't represent my work at finish stage.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

My vac, goes on every job.


----------



## DONZI (Dec 23, 2013)

I think my best tool on the truck is the hair blow drier!


----------



## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

ridesarize said:


> My vac, goes on every job.


That is the longest shop vac hose EVER. :notworthy:


----------



## PaintingComplete (Oct 29, 2013)

I gave up hair driers for a Lasko blower fan and its running on ever job. I usually do repaints it saves so much time with this cold weather and the exterior walls being cold. I need to pick up one more for larger jobs but between drying patches and ceilings its great. The smaller the job your doing the more time its saves. for example, its towards the end of the day and had a hall closet and a small stairway that goes to the basement to paint. Painted the closet, put the blower in, painted the stairway, closet was dry, move the blower to stairway, painted 2nd coat in closet then stairway again


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

paintball head said:


> That is the longest shop vac hose EVER. :notworthy:


I just bought a radio controlled plug in., I can turn any tool on and off from a ways away, works great with that vacuum, working on ladders, planks.. I will utilize it for my pump too at some point.


----------



## DONZI (Dec 23, 2013)

The blow drier is just for small patches, 2 coat touch ups, or maybe a door so the people can close sooner. I'm using fans to dry rooms as well.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Here it is


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Best time and job saving tool?


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Lazer level and plumb line?


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

ridesarize said:


> Lazer level and plumb line?


yes. and self leveling

an absolute MUST for paper hanging.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Anyone know of a good wall duster with vac option? I liked the large wooster dust mops but don't see them anymore, now I see the the arrow 360° duster/sander head. 

Anyone have a suggestion for dusting down walls?

I use a horse hair rat tail most of the time.


----------



## andy1015 (Apr 28, 2011)

PaintingComplete said:


> I gave up hair driers for a Lasko blower fan and its running on ever job. I usually do repaints it saves so much time with this cold weather and the exterior walls being cold. I need to pick up one more for larger jobs but between drying patches and ceilings its great. The smaller the job your doing the more time its saves. for example, its towards the end of the day and had a hall closet and a small stairway that goes to the basement to paint. Painted the closet, put the blower in, painted the stairway, closet was dry, move the blower to stairway, painted 2nd coat in closet then stairway again


these fans are great…a must have tool for what i do...


----------



## olepainter (Dec 31, 2013)

I use super glue !! it works. Just on the cracks, it makes them heal faster, Put lotion on @ night


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

So here's a tool I've been using for a year and a half now. I use them on stairwells, roofs, and hilly landscaping. Also as roof jacks on tame roof pitches, place to set buckets and tools on roofs, mini planks and more. 
Built, primed, painted with speedy coat, stainless screws, rubber feet. 
Everyone loves them so I've sold a couple and given some away to a friend.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I always thought these were pretty handy.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Jmayspaint said:


> I always thought these were pretty handy.


We go with this style:










On all of our extension ladders, as well as the base sections of our combination ladders, and even some of our big steps.

We also have them on our aluminum trestles/sawhorses. Those are great for roof work.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> I always thought these were pretty handy.


Jmays and Gough, thanks, definitely we use those too although my current bosses ladders are getting outfitted finally. But leg levelers can only do so much. In my pic with the exterior ground showing the leg leveler would not reach and grip the sloped dirt and would swing inwards, and on the stairwell pictured the (ladders') leg leveler was at edge of the stair tread, hanging over. :thumbup:

I also throw two down on a roof pitch and put a 2x10 across for an impromptu plank on composite roofs, move it down or to another part of house if needed. Worked really awesome, and I can carry two up to the roof in one hand as they stack and are pretty light.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> So here's a tool I've been using for a year and a half now. I use them on stairwells, roofs, and hilly landscaping. Also as roof jacks on tame roof pitches, place to set buckets and tools on roofs, mini planks and more.
> Built, primed, painted with speedy coat, stainless screws, rubber feet.
> Everyone loves them so I've sold a couple and given some away to a friend.



I would also call these a money saver as they seem to do pretty much the same thing as a pivot tool without the $90 price tag. :thumbsup:


----------



## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

Gough said:


> We go with this style:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I prefer the leg levelers that are an actual foot of a ladder instead of the little round one shown in that picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Painter-Aaron said:


> I prefer the leg levelers that are an actual foot of a ladder instead of the little round one shown in that picture.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


They don't really qualify as little, I think the surface area is about the same as a regular ladder foot. In 25+ years, we haven't had one of those slip out. Also, none of the ones we've encountered with "actual" feet are infinitely adjustable.


----------



## JPiacentino (Jun 14, 2014)

Pete the Painter said:


> I would rather complain and find a solution than deal with cracking and bleeding hands every winter--but I guess if you don't have to deal with the harsh winters of New England (my more "delicate hands" would probably do better in Australia) than you would not find this a problem.


No shame in your game pete. Jersey may not be new England, but our winters can still get fairly brutal at times. Especially on the shore. I go through plenty of Burts Bees products in the colder months. Seems girly, I know, but the stuff works.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> Jmays and Gough, thanks, definitely we use those too although my current bosses ladders are getting outfitted finally. But leg levelers can only do so much. In my pic with the exterior ground showing the leg leveler would not reach and grip the sloped dirt and would swing inwards, and on the stairwell pictured the (ladders') leg leveler was at edge of the stair tread, hanging over. :thumbup:
> 
> I also throw two down on a roof pitch and put a 2x10 across for an impromptu plank on composite roofs, move it down or to another part of house if needed. Worked really awesome, and I can carry two up to the roof in one hand as they stack and are pretty light.



What is on the bottom of those that they don't just slide off the roof?


----------



## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

Gough said:


> We go with this style:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have them as well. I like the adjustability they give. I had the round base piece fail on two where they came off, after a few years of pretty heavy use.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> What is on the bottom of those that they don't just slide off the roof?



They have inner-tube stapled on with 9/16" staples. I also have thicker rubber to use up. There is rubber at top edge as well on most of these I built. 
New additions will be a turn-able metal plate with teeth on legs to grip shingles or roofs with moss or grip ground. Turn the plate back 180 deg and back to regular legs. 
They fit a 7/12 roof (or stairs) very well and I can step right up on these on a 7/12 without a wobble or slide, also put a ladder fully on it and climb ladder.

Also hard to tell in pictures but the legs don't go down at a 90 degree angle from level surface, they are set some degree outward on two axis and it holds nicely.


----------



## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I have tried the okeefes seems like some quality stuff my hands arent that bad though. I just end up buying anything I see in the paint store. Im like a kid in a candy shop


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Being I am the self promoted safety officer........ id like to point out if you alter a ladder like drilling holes, (according to Cal Osha) the ladder is incompliant


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Being I am the self promoted safety officer........ id like to point out if you alter a ladder like drilling holes, (according to Cal Osha) the ladder is incompliant


According to their website, it meets OSHA's regulations. Too bad about CAL-OSHA....


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Gough said:


> According to their website, it meets OSHA's regulations. Too bad about CAL-OSHA....


Im being over zealous in my new safety gear... :jester:


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Im being over zealous in my new safety gear... :jester:


That would mean you will have to loose the chin hair.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Gough said:


> According to their website, it meets OSHA's regulations. Too bad about CAL-OSHA....


Could you imagine the red tape to get those levelers he makes certified?


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Could you imagine the red tape to get those levelers he makes certified?


I wondered about that when he posted that he'd sold some of them


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> That would mean you will have to loose the chin hair.


Just gotta tuck it, :laughing:


----------



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

When there are holes in the drywall too big for spackling (up to the size of a quarter or so), I use mesh tape and hot mud…just enough to fill the hole. After it dries a bit, I wet sand it down enough to be able to pull the tape off, and continue wet sanding ALL compound off the area around the hole. Then, I hit it with spackling. Done.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

804 Paint said:


> When there are holes in the drywall too big for spackling (up to the size of a quarter or so), I use mesh tape and hot mud…just enough to fill the hole. After it dries a bit, I wet sand it down enough to be able to pull the tape off, and continue wet sanding ALL compound off the area around the hole. Then, I hit it with spackling. Done. :blink:


----------



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

mudbone said:


> :blink:


Yep, it works just fine. You could try using words to describe what you think might be the problem here. Have some of those that are 10 years old in my own home with no cracks, etc. I'm not talking solid, THRU holes that are the size of a quarter.


----------



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

I come across an unholy amount of dents in wall shaped about the size if a claw hammer head. Are you saying to use this trick on those? Not actual holes, right?


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Gough said:


> I wondered about that when he posted that he'd sold some of them


Our work requires caution all day around all of our tools. We have to eliminate danger but also deal with regular dangers like step ladders even. I had a friend who died from a fall off a 6ft ladder.

Each time my tools, or ladders or safety gear is used it is scrutinized for safety. And I don't take it for granted.

I'm not trying to shoot down naysayers but just show they are sturdy.*


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ridesarize said:


> Our work requires caution all day around all of our tools. We have to eliminate danger but also deal with regular dangers like step ladders even. I had a friend who died from a fall off a 6ft ladder.
> 
> Each time my tools, or ladders or safety gear is used it is scrutinized for safety. And I don't take it for granted.
> 
> I'm not trying to shoot down naysayers but just show they are sturdy.*


I understand that part. We've got some similar tools that we've fabricated.

My concern was about selling them and the exposure to liability.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Okay I see. I'm no entrepreneur, but maybe someday I'll figure out needed steps to take. Thanks dudes.


----------



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

driftweed said:


> I come across an unholy amount of dents in wall shaped about the size if a claw hammer head. Are you saying to use this trick on those? Not actual holes, right?


You have to use your discretion and be smart about it. You don't want a callback. Smaller thru holes (like from the larger wall anchors) are fine. For dents I don't really need the tape because the paper is still intact and those usually only need two coats of spackling anyway. Larger gouges into the drywall, yes. It works well in situations where it would take multiple coats of spackling to fill the space. Using the mesh tape allows you to fill area just about flush. But if you leave the tape on, how many coats of drywall mud is it going to take to make it look seamless, and how long will that take you? Wet sand the mud down, peel the tape off and put a light coat of spackling on top and sand if necessary.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

If anyone needs cut buckets for free go to a albys bakery, maybe any of the big grocery stores, ask if they have any short buckets to get rid of. They have tons of frostings, cake batters, containers they just recycle or throw out every day. 
My wife got the tip from a gardener online for planting containers. So have 20 plus buckets from 2 trips.


----------



## driftweed (May 26, 2013)

804, I am trying to mentally visualize your method to no avail. you pull the mesh while mud is wet or dry?


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

More of a tip - we always have a few "S hooks" in the tool box for when we are working around lower hanging light fixtures (using chains). We can put them up higher out of the way so we are less likely to hit them with our ladders. We also have orange caution tape to hang down from the fixtures. Allows us to be more aware of them when moving, you guessed it, ladders.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> If anyone needs cut buckets for free go to a albys bakery, maybe any of the big grocery stores, ask if they have any short buckets to get rid of. They have tons of frostings, cake batters, containers they just recycle or throw out every day.
> My wife got the tip from a gardener online for planting containers. So have 20 plus buckets from 2 trips.


How big are they compared to a normal 5 qt bucket?


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> How big are they compared to a normal 5 qt bucket?


They are like a 2 gallon cut buckets. Most are all matching size and some just a tad taller.
They will give lids with gaskets. The handles are plastic but are made to hold 17-23lbs of product and I have been testing them with bucket hooks, so far so good.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

When painting deeptones, yellows, etc. flashing patches can be a problem. Spotting with Primer sometimes does not work very well because it will show up a different sheen than the rest of the wall. We mix quick-set 20 with a little of the wall paint, fill the hole, and when it dries, take a wet rag over the excess, just leaving a very small patch. When cutting-in, take the brush and dab a little of the wall paint on the small patch, roll wall, and voila: No flashing.


----------



## Boco (May 18, 2013)

Durabond will flash with some sheens and colors. Use AP mud to avoid flashing.


----------



## 12th man (Mar 18, 2014)

Greg-SHS said:


> For me one big time saver is putting a garbage bag inside a 5 gallon bucket before adding paint and roller screen. This saves bucket cleaning at the end of the day--just pull out the bag and cut the corner to deposit remaining paint in the paint storage can and then throw away the bag.


We do that with our 18" roller setups. Its a good trick. It also makes it easy to strain the paint after it starts getting chunkies.


----------



## 12th man (Mar 18, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> I always thought these were pretty handy.


Huge time saver!


----------

