# Painting Cabinets



## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

I have to paint a few kitchen cabinets in a tiny little kitchen in a cheap rental. I've done cabinets a few times, but they always already had a bad paint job. This is the first one that is unpainted and might actually turn out nice if I do it right. It's a good one to practice on. I told him that there would be drips and runs and brush marks all over the place and he doesn't care. And he doesn't care about the inside. So there is no downside. 

I have an airless, but I think that might be too much and I'd have to do a ton of masking. I have a Titan FlexSpray which is a little bulky and cheesy, but it might work. It's so small I could even do rattle cans. Or just brush and roller. 

I'm a SW guy, so I'll probably use their bonding primer and hybrid ProClassic. But I'm open to suggestions on that. 

How would I set up to spray the doors? Would I just do that in his living room or whatever is convenient? 

The hinges are pretty ugly and I think i might actually want to paint them. Is that a bad idea? If I'm painting the hinges anyway, could I just open the doors and never actually take them off? 

Thoughts?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

If you're using them as practice I'd try to practice as if you're doing a set that needed to look like a professional job. Take them apart and spray them. You can brush and roll the frames but you need to spray the doors. Clean, prime, and paint, personally I'd stay away from Proclassic and use the Emerald Urethane instead. 

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Betheweb said:


> I have to paint a few kitchen cabinets in a tiny little kitchen in a cheap rental. I've done cabinets a few times, but they always already had a bad paint job. This is the first one that is unpainted and might actually turn out nice if I do it right. It's a good one to practice on. I told him that there would be drips and runs and brush marks all over the place and he doesn't care. And he doesn't care about the inside. So there is no downside.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 If it's just a small kitchen and he's not that particular, I would just brush and roll everything on site with microfiber rollers. 
Unless your set up and experienced at spraying it will be a hard learning experience on a clients cabinets. 
Take all the doors and hardware off and paint on a saw horse/work bench. Lean them against a wall on one corner for drying. 
Convince client to get new hinges and handles. Painting them looks so bad!
I'm unfamiliar with SW products, but surely someone else here will set you straight


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

By unpainted do you mean raw wood? Or pre primed? If it’s raw wood you may want to use Coverstain or Bin to prevent tannin bleeding. If you’re not worried about tannin bleeding SW Premium Wall and Wood is a good water based option.

SW has quite a few options that work as cabinet paints. Emerald Urethane, ProClassic, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane. Or you could even try Kem Aqua Plus or HydroPlus.

This is a great opportunity for you to develop a system for painting cabinets. 




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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

Yeah. Brush and roll would be the most practical. But I've seen plenty that were done that way and they all look horrible. Maybe those were all done by hacks with Behr paint and a $3 brush? If I take it apart and do it the right way with the right tools and the right paint, that might be totally adequate for my purposes. 

I just feel like it's an opportunity to do... something. I spent a lot of money on sprayers. The airless just sits there. I use the FlexSpray once in awhile to do annoying stuff like lattice or outdoor furniture. So I kind of want to use a sprayer, but maybe that is making me not think straight. I'm not looking to get into high end cabinet painting. 

Emerald Urethane is a good suggestion. 

Is it hard to install new hinges? I would try to sell him on new hinges, but I'm afraid I'll never get them to line up right. I'm not a carpenter.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Betheweb said:


> Yeah. Brush and roll would be the most practical. But I've seen plenty that were done that way and they all look horrible. Maybe those were all done by hacks with Behr paint and a $3 brush? If I take it apart and do it the right way with the right tools and the right paint, that might be totally adequate for my purposes.
> 
> I just feel like it's an opportunity to do... something. I spent a lot of money on sprayers. The airless just sits there. I use the FlexSpray once in awhile to do annoying stuff like lattice or outdoor furniture. So I kind of want to use a sprayer, but maybe that is making me not think straight. I'm not looking to get into high end cabinet painting.
> 
> ...



I use a Graco 490 airless to spray all my cabinet doors with BM's Advance. (Hybrid Enamel)
However, I have a space/shop setup with dry racks etc. 
If your comfortable with spraying, it gives a fantastic look..but there is obviously a lot of bugs to work out on spraying cabinets.
If your unsure, you can still get a fantasic look with a microfibre wizz roller.
The hybrid enamels, like BM Advance and SW Emerald Urathane have great leveling properties and are really easy to work with.
Lots of other threads here on spraying doors if you do a quick search..
If you get new hinges, just try to get the same ones, so that screw holes match up, or else you'll have to drill new ones which will be a pain in the rear.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

I would actually use Cabinet coat urethane finish over Sw Emerald urethane. Tougher finish and if going white has better color retention.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Brush and roll method*



Betheweb said:


> I have to paint a few kitchen cabinets in a tiny little kitchen in a cheap rental. I've done cabinets a few times, but they always already had a bad paint job. This is the first one that is unpainted and might actually turn out nice if I do it right. It's a good one to practice on. I told him that there would be drips and runs and brush marks all over the place and he doesn't care. And he doesn't care about the inside. So there is no downside.
> 
> I have an airless, but I think that might be too much and I'd have to do a ton of masking. I have a Titan FlexSpray which is a little bulky and cheesy, but it might work. It's so small I could even do rattle cans. Or just brush and roller.
> 
> ...


I have done precious little spraying over the years, but a lot of touch-up. I remember repairing a damaged cabinet side. I painted it with Muralo Ultra ceramic and used a 6 1/2" mini roller with 1/4" nap from SW. My partner couldn't tell the difference in the finish from the factory finish on the rest of the cabinets.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/contractor-series-woven-mini-rollers

If you want to get practice using a sprayer I say go for it, but if you want to practice getting a good finish with a brush and mini roller, that would be valuable practice as well.

futtyos


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I almost exclusively brush and roll cabinets and you CAN end up with a beautiful look using ProClassic Latex. I use microfiber roller sleeves and if you can lay the doors flat while they are drying, the PC will level out to a nice, smooth glass-like finish. Just beware that PC often takes at least 3 coats to get to that point, but, it is very doable. Just be aware of runs but that shouldn't be much of an issue if you can lay the doors flat. As for new hinges, be careful because new ones can throw off how they close and you could end up with doors that don't close properly. Be careful to number all the doors so when you put them back up, they all go to their original location, otherwise they may not fit in their openings and you will be cursing ALOT.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Also, if the hinges have adjustments make sure you put them back exactly where you got them. I use sandwich bags and number them. T1 is top one and so on, then on the back of the hinge I letter them A being the top hinge and on down. 

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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Also, if the hinges have adjustments make sure you put them back exactly where you got them. I use sandwich bags and number them. T1 is top one and so on, then on the back of the hinge I letter them A being the top hinge and on down.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Because REadjusting the hinges on an entire set of cabinets is like herding cats! It's an awful experience you will only go through once.


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

Gymschu said:


> I almost exclusively brush and roll cabinets


Wow. That is huge. That makes sense based on my experience doing a handful of new doors and stuff. But EVERYBODY says you have to at least spray the cabinet doors. Really made me doubt my sanity!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

If the situation warrants it, being able to spray cabinet components is hard to beat for a really nice finish. With that said, spraying is not always a viable option, especially where the boxes are concerned. So, knowing how to get a good finish using a brush/roller combo obviously increases a painters ability to achieve a result that will make the average HO happy. Having the skill sets in place to do either one well is the mark of a versatile painter who can have a selection of options available to them to complete any job and make money doing so. Just being able to do one is limiting IMO.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

RH said:


> If the situation warrants it, being able to spray cabinet components is hard to beat for a really nice finish. With that said, spraying is not always a viable option, especially where the boxes are concerned. So, knowing how to get a good finish using a brush/roller combo obviously increases a painters ability to achieve a result that will make the average HO happy. Having the skill sets in place to do either one well is the mark of a versatile painter who can have a selection of options available to them to complete any job and make money doing so. Just being able to do one is limiting IMO.


I roll/brush cabinets. I recently lost a job to a long time customer due to my inability to spray. I am seriously considering getting a sprayer. However, I also do not have a space to spray doors. And few people have the space for me to set up a booth to spray.

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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> I roll/brush cabinets. I recently lost a job to a long time customer due to my inability to spray. I am seriously considering getting a sprayer. However, I also do not have a space to spray doors. And few people have the space for me to set up a booth to spray.
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


I know they have spray booths you can rent for cars. Someone should open a business that rents stalls for cabinet painting. I guess the only issue would be storing them overnight. You'd need a portable dry rack you could roll out of the way. I've often thought of renting a garage for this purpose. I've been using a room in my house basement but my girlfriend is getting tired of it.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Yeah, I have a house with no garage and no room in the basement. It is a 210 year old house, so the basement has really low ceilings, uneven floors, and lots of stuff in it.

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> Yeah, I have a house with no garage and no room in the basement. It is a 210 year old house, so the basement has really low ceilings, uneven floors, and lots of stuff in it.
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


I feel your pain. My current house is the same. I did however find an 800 sq.ft. heated garage for rent in my neighborhood. I have turned it into my shop/spray booth. It's the best thing I ever did. Costs me $700/month but makes my life more enjoyable; )
I'm now focusing on getting more cabinet jobs to justify having it. 


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

Somebody probably makes an inflatable spray booth that would work. I have seen them for auto painting.


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

I did a little experimenting on a piece of tempered hardboard. I brushed and rolled some proclassic and emerald urethane. I got it good, but not perfect. So, I took mudbone's suggestion and went with the Cabinet Coat. I still have to put another coat on. It looks pretty decent but I don't think I'm going to get it to look like glass. I used the whizz flock roller. It says it's for "ultra" smooth surfaces. I dunno. Definitely still leaving some roller stipple. Maybe I'll try a different roller cover or tipping it off with the brush. The Cabinet Coat sands real nice, so I'm going to smooth it out and try to get it perfect. 

With cabinets, you just have to get everything perfect. 

In front of the sink, there is a fake drawer front. I didn't take that off, but I should have. 

I should have caulked behind all the shelves. I had a lot of paint running down and I did a lot of baby sitting. 

I did a pretty good job cleaning, but that could be even better. 

I should have cleaned the top of the cabinets. That was all dusty and got stuck in my paint. 

The counter top is particle board and that had a spot that was falling apart, so I wound up with all that crap on my roller and in my finish. 

I broke half of the handles just by unscrewing them. They are getting replaced anyway, but I sure wasn't expecting that. 

Good learning experience.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I’ve found that a little extender helps reduce brush marks and roller roller stipple with Emerald Urethane and Cabinet Coat.

Heating the paint can also help.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Really make me miss the days of the old Satin Impervo! With a good china bristle brush and mohair roller (really didn't even need a roller) you could make anything look almost as good as sprayed.... almost. Best trim paint ever made, bar none!


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

Meh. They came out okay. I give myself a C. The customer was very happy. But it's not ready for prime time in a nice kitchen. I have some good options for paint. Any tips as far as technique? That's what I'm lacking now. I had a lot of issues with paint rolling over all the 90 degree corners and onto adjacent surfaces. On the doors for example. I want to put enough paint that it can level out, but then it runs down the sides.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Betheweb said:


> Meh. They came out okay. I give myself a C. The customer was very happy. But it's not ready for prime time in a nice kitchen. I have some good options for paint. Any tips as far as technique? That's what I'm lacking now. I had a lot of issues with paint rolling over all the 90 degree corners and onto adjacent surfaces. On the doors for example. I want to put enough paint that it can level out, but then it runs down the sides.


If you want to move up to prime time you'd have to start spraying them. It's really the only way to go for both finish and speed. The only other tip I could give would be to use a true oil paint if that's available in your state. It's slower and you'll have way longer dry times but that'll get you the best finish done by hand. 

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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

So I started a new cabinet job today. Filthy, disgusting cabinets. I was scrubbing them down with krudkutter. While I was cleaning one door, I threw some krudkutter on the next door while I had the bottle in my hand. But I guess I didn't get to it fast enough and it soaked in and the whole area bubbled up. I thought it was real wood, but I guess it has a particle board core. Thoughts?


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

I wouldn't even try fixing that, I'd replace the wood. If you don't have the requisite wood working skills, take it to a cabinet shop to duplicate the piece. That would be a tough patch for a cabinet quality finish. Good luck.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Betheweb said:


> So I started a new cabinet job today. Filthy, disgusting cabinets. I was scrubbing them down with krudkutter. While I was cleaning one door, I threw some krudkutter on the next door while I had the bottle in my hand. But I guess I didn't get to it fast enough and it soaked in and the whole area bubbled up. I thought it was real wood, but I guess it has a particle board core. Thoughts?


Umm. it was like that before you started....


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Cut a slit and get a syringe that wall covering guys use and squirt some glue in there and weight it down.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

That looks more like MDF swelling than a Delam... If it is, theres no regluing it.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

That looks like mdf covered with a thin veneer to me. It is of course water damaged but I doubt that came from the krud kutter. Better check the whole job carefully as you may have a bunch of it. You can repair it but if its over half thickness then the strength will be compromised. Dig it all out down to the good and putty it up and sand it out. I use Timbermate and have repaired craters in shelves that should have been tossed. You can make it look good but it takes time and if you have much of it it is not worth it. I did a set like this and it came out fine but it really will up your prep time. Check around the sink good and anywhere it has been wet.Good luck.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I would add that if that is a delaminate then do as kmp suggested, glue it. If you dig it out and patch it then the patch area will be smooth and will not look right if the rest has "grain.". You will be grain filling a cheap set of cabinets that will probably delaminate or bubble more.


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## OT Painting (Mar 2, 2019)

lain:


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Oy Vey,Brushing and rolling Cabinets?Good grief,where are we,back in the olden days?

Theyve got these new inventions fellas,its called an airless

Also new,its called tape,masking paper,painters plastic

Combine those elements and I can make a spray booth anywhere and keep the overspray where I want it

Jus tfinished a Kitchen carcass in 2 and a half days by myself from masking floor,making a booth,masking interiors of cabs,filling old hinge holes with bondo,sanding all cleaning all removing doors/drawers,marking,shipping all to my shop,shellac sealer,2cts,DE Aristoshield Semi Gloss 2 cts,looks great Customers beside themselves happy,another 3 days in my shop then 1 more half day to reinstall and drive home and Im making about 2700 profit for 6 days easy work,and not a drip sag run brushmark,roller stipple to see,just a sprayed glass liuke finish thatll last for years

thank God I was trained the right way to paint


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

propainterJ said:


> Oy Vey,Brushing and rolling Cabinets?Good grief,where are we,back in the olden days?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Because if you spray the boxes it will last longer than a brush/roll finish? Umm No. I have both sprayed the boxes and brush and rolled them. I agree a sprayed finish on boxes can look better, but depending on the situation it is such a waste of time, plastic and effort to tape off a whole kitchen for a few little area's that you hardly see when the doors go back on.. 
Saying that there is a right or wrong way is just a little arrogant. 

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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Can look better?

Does look better!!

All that matters

We're in the "looks" business,after all


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## mug (Dec 22, 2010)

As I am meticulously rolling and brushing boxes. I am constantly thinking "man I shoulda brought my turbine and knocked these out." 
As I am taping and covering every inch of that kitchen like a crime scene I am constantly thinking "man I shoulda brushed these damn things." 
The last set I did there was no way that family with two babies was going to be without their kitchen. Besides, only about a quarter an inch shows and the side panels get virtually no light. 
Each cabinet job has its own unique challenges for sure.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

And how to you brush and roll toned laquer on your boxes?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

propainterJ said:


> And how to you brush and roll toned laquer on your boxes?


Who said anything about toned lacquer?


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## AbiKitchBath (Mar 3, 2019)

We found that when painting cabinets that we have to sand them down to get any dirt and old paint off of them first. Then when we paint we had at least 2 coats of paint to make sure it is covered right. We sometimes add a little bit of clear coat in with the paint to make it more durable.


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## ronron (Nov 17, 2020)

There is a lot to do to paint kitchen doors and units and preparation is just as important as choosing the right roller and brushes to paint with. Ideally, take off all handles, remove drawers, remove doors and take hinges off - learn more on https://indoor2outdoor.com/best-paint-sprayers-for-cаbinets/ . Good luck with your project and perhaps post some feedback and before, during and after pics to help others!


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