# Cedar Treatment



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Customer has a large cedar deck (railing system is PVC), which is a project he does himself every two years. Problem is he just powerwashes and slaps CWF-UV down and the deck is looking like crap. I talked him into getting me involved to get it back to good. The deck looks and feels unsealed currently so I'm planning to use Wolman's Deck Brite with low pressure, some light sanding, followed up by a quality clear/toner, latex or oil. I'm looking for suggestions on products that you guys have had success with on cedar. As I said, clear or tone, no colors. I was looking at Deckscapes Natural Toner in oil. I had a bad experience with Sikkens latex Rubbol and no company follow up, so I'm gun shy on Sikkens product. Thanks.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Is clear going to give you any real UV protection? Maybe the penetrol isn't working out with the CWF-UV. Any idea why the stuff is failing? What's the traffic like? Sun/shade?


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## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Wood511 said:


> Is clear going to give you any real UV protection? Maybe the penetrol isn't working out with the CWF-UV. Any idea why the stuff is failing? What's the traffic like? Sun/shade?


The SW Natural oil toner does offer UV protection. I'm looking to the oil for penetration. I don't think the cedar is holding on to the CWF. As I said, the deck currently looks and feels like it hasn't been done in a long time. I should have but didn't do a water bead test. It's not a traffice issue.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

I've had good success with TWP, although I've read that clear doesn't offer any UV protection - I've never used clear myself. There are some lighter shades (cedar) that may closely match the existing wood shade. PressurePro's also mentioned Armstrong Clark stain in another thread a few days back. I've heard others say good things about them as well. I'm having a hard time scheduling decks in my part of the country using the TWP 1500 series with the 48 hour set time. You basically need 3 - 4 dry days straight in the forecast. Keeping up with this stuff is enough work without having to learn about high pressure systems and meteorology to schedule jobs.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

I always used Cabot clear solution. The austrailian timber oil is nice to. The clear solution is about bringing out the beauty in the wood and just darkens cedar a little bit. It only gives you about two years of protection unlike solid color O.V.T. latex. I like the way oil soaks into the wood. Iv'e used Flood. I don't like those 1/2 oil 1/2 latex products.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Ok, wheres Ken?


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

I'm here but I don't want to be a broken record. I prefer Baker's Gray Away on cedar. The stock colors all give a beautiful finish and the product penetrates nicely. Its also a killer value at $90/pail. 

The worst product ever (sorry to contradict the above poster) is Cabot's Aussie Oil. It has a very bad reaction with tannins and color shifts wildly. I talked to Cabot's techs about it and they were firm in saying it should not be used on cedar. We used it one time and it turned black in one year and it was not a mold or prep issue.


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## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

PressurePros said:


> I'm here but I don't want to be a broken record. I prefer Baker's Gray Away on cedar. The stock colors all give a beautiful finish and the product penetrates nicely. Its also a killer value at $90/pail.
> 
> The worst product ever (sorry to contradict the above poster) is Cabot's Aussie Oil. It has a very bad reaction with tannins and color shifts wildly. I talked to Cabot's techs about it and they were firm in saying it should not be used on cedar. We used it one time and it turned black in one year and it was not a mold or prep issue.


Ken, I'm glad you chimed in, as I was looking at Cabots, either clear solution or the aussie oil. Funny, I didn't notice about aussie oil and cedar warning on their site. What about the Clear Solution? when you say $90/pail, what size pail is that? I somehow don't think this guy will share your enthusiasm for it if it's the gal price. BTW, this deck is in Media off rose tree rd by the SPCA.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

jsheridan said:


> Ken, I'm glad you chimed in, as I was looking at Cabots, either clear solution or the aussie oil. Funny, I didn't notice about aussie oil and cedar warning on their site. What about the Clear Solution? when you say $90/pail, what size pail is that? I somehow don't think this guy will share your enthusiasm for it if it's the gal price. BTW, this deck is in Media off rose tree rd by the SPCA.


Cool, we service that area often. Are you coming from the shore to hit this thing? that's a hike. I am going to save you a ton of aggravation on the strip part. The Wolman's is going to be child's play against layered CWF. You'll be there for days with probably terrible results. You are going to need a stronger stipper and pH balancing acid to use as a neutralizer. A product called HD-80 mixed at 8 oz per gallon and applied via a sprayer will get it off with a decent dwell time. You can use citric or oxalic acid to neutralize. 

pail = 5 gallons.


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## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Ken, I'm up that way often, stay at Mom's or motel when I'm in Wilmington, where a lot of my work is. I graduated from Interboro. I'm transitioning to the shore over the next 2-3 years. Anyway, I don't think there's any CWF left on 98% of the deck. The Wolmans was to remove any traces left and brighten. Two areas, the gazebo and grill area get no sun and look sealed but the rest looks beat and raw. I looked into the HD-80, looks good. I'll call them with my questions and discuss with HO. For the finish, I'm trying to stay local versus delivery. Do you think the Cabot's Clear Solution will have same issues with cedar as the Aussie Oil? Appreciate the help.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

jsheridan said:


> Ken, I'm up that way often, stay at Mom's or motel when I'm in Wilmington, where a lot of my work is. I graduated from Interboro. I'm transitioning to the shore over the next 2-3 years. Anyway, I don't think there's any CWF left on 98% of the deck. The Wolmans was to remove any traces left and brighten. Two areas, the gazebo and grill area get no sun and look sealed but the rest looks beat and raw. I looked into the HD-80, looks good. I'll call them with my questions and discuss with HO. For the finish, I'm trying to stay local versus delivery. Do you think the Cabot's Clear Solution will have same issues with cedar as the Aussie Oil? Appreciate the help.


Small world huh? I graduated from Academy Park in '86. I used to wrestle for AP. 

Copy on the remaining CWF. That shouldn't be too bad then. I still would have some stripper on hand, just in case. Its the areas not exposed to the sun (and verticals) that can be brutal.

The Clear Solutions used to be a good product. I started out my first years using it. Then the formula changed and it is now in the pits with the rest of the products they sell in paint and box stores. The oils and resins used in the Clear Solutions are very similar to the ATO. I would avoid it.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

PressurePros said:


> Small world huh? I graduated from Academy Park in '86. I used to wrestle for AP.
> 
> Copy on the remaining CWF. That shouldn't be too bad then. I still would have some stripper on hand, just in case. Its the areas not exposed to the sun (and verticals) that can be brutal.
> 
> The Clear Solutions used to be a good product. I started out my first years using it. Then the formula changed and it is now in the pits with the rest of the products they sell in paint and box stores. The oils and resins used in the Clear Solutions are very similar to the ATO. I would avoid it.


I've been reading a lot of good things about HD80. Looks to be the go to product if there is ever a question about removing stubborn stains. 

I don't refinish decks, but I've been asked to in the past. I gotta wonder if it's necessary to wash off mold and mildew prior to applying the hd80? Or does the mold etc. just come off along with the stripper when pressure washed? Is it safe to assume that a lower pressure would be best for the wood when pressure washing the stripping off the deck?


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Different Strokes said:


> I've been reading a lot of good things about HD80. Looks to be the go to product if there is ever a question about removing stubborn stains.
> 
> I don't refinish decks, but I've been asked to in the past. I gotta wonder if it's necessary to wash off mold and mildew prior to applying the hd80? Or does the mold etc. just come off along with the stripper when pressure washed? Is it safe to assume that a lower pressure would be best for the wood when pressure washing the stripping off the deck?


Unless you have a carpet of moss growth, the HD-80 will kill it and get it off the wood.

You should never go over 1000 psi.. maybe 800 psi for cedar. HD-80 (and all caustic strippers) have to be learned. too strong of a mix will strip paint from aluminum doors and trim and/or will fur the wood up badly.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

Here's one a guy has asked me to do. It's pine. It was last done 2 years ago by someone else using Wolman's F&P natural. It looks pretty bad. He only wants it pressure washed and then restained. I saw it, and thought it should be stripped before another coat of stain was put on. But what do I know. :blink: I could end up using the wrong amount of stripper to water and screw the whole deal up. OR maybe a good pressure wash and restain is all it does need. ps. it rained the day I took this pic, some of what your seeing is just wet boards.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

No such thing as a pressure wash and restain unless you know what the product is and plan to reuse the same. We strip every deck. You can't screw up the deck. As long as you neutralize post strip and make sure everything stays wet (plants, siding, triim, etc) the worst thing that will happen is you have to defur. I price some defurring of rails and sanding of top handrails into every job.


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