# Dulamel + Waterborne Satin Impervo



## Aresbowman (Mar 30, 2008)

Hi,

For bright white trimwork, has anyone experimented with first coating with Dulamel and then second coating with Waterborne Satin Impervo in order to combine the best of both worlds? Dulamel to provide increased work time and nice leveled first coat, and a second coat of waterborne satin impervo to ensure no yellowing (at the cost of increased brush strokes and shorter working time). I was a huge Dulamel advocate until I actually used it in my own house and witnessed firsthand the severe yellowing that can occur in rooms without natural light (I now have two bathrooms with trim that was white 2 years ago and now the trim is the color of fresh unsalted butter, just thankful I haven't gotten more calls from customers). I know this is a little off the wall, but figured I put it out there anyway.


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Is not Dulamel oil?


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I would not want to chance it. If the Dulamel is not fully cured, the waterborne impervo may adhere fine, but my experience as been the WB Impervo does not have near the adhesion of other waterborne paints such Graham, Cabinet Coat, SW Pro-Classic, etc.


----------



## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

I see at as not the best of both worlds, but the reduction of the reasons to use Dulamel (pretty much the only reasons to use Dulamel)
Like the semi-gloss shine and durable finish
That's gone if you top coat it with another product

Unless you mean the eggshell Dulamel
...which again the only reason to use is for a durable eggshell trim

I guess I don't get it

Then there's the whole coating an oil with a waterborne thing...that sort of makes my skin crawl


----------



## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

If it's a cured 'enamel' finish, aka oil-based, then there are 'waterborne' products out there that will stick with just a 120 grit sanding to the oil finish. I too use to sand down oil trim work - prime - and then convert to latex. But products like Grahams' and Muralo - I don't worry about priming anymore. If it was Aquaglo - then I'd definitely prime.


----------



## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> If it's a cured 'enamel' finish, aka oil-based, then there are 'waterborne' products out there that will stick with just a 120 grit sanding to the oil finish. I too use to sand down oil trim work - prime - and then convert to latex. But products like Grahams' and Muralo - I don't worry about priming anymore. If it was Aquaglo - then I'd definitely prime.


I agree, Muralo sticks to oil great, I just scuff it with 120 also and wipe then paint.


----------



## stansoph (Dec 16, 2007)

I think sticking with one or the other is your best move.


----------



## Aresbowman (Mar 30, 2008)

Thanks all for the replies, in general kinda what I expected in terms of the "what the heck are you thinking?". I guess it just stems from frustrations in working with waterbased versus oil-based paints. I paint in Montana and I don't know if it's the super low humidity or what (i.e. on average in the winter 10-15% RH) but water based trim paints seem to start getting very cranky even after just three strokes (~5 secs especially when 1st coating on pre-primed MDF), which makes complex victorian trim/window casings a nightmare (yes, even with Floetrol added). I've even considered lowering the jobsite temps to ~50F to see if it would help.

In the past month in my own home I've had good results with lightly sanding the discolored Dulamel trim and 3rd coating with the waterborne satin impervo. By good results I mean I got all the advatages of the oil based finish (excellent leveling, nice corners, excellent hide, extended work time,, sandable, etc), followed by a relatively brushmark free single coat of satin impervo. Of course the degree of yellowing of the Dulamel is the primary bummer here which forced me to add the 3rd coat, but in my opintion the final result looks a lot better in terms of brushmarks than 2 coats of satin impervo on top of a brushed primer (and yes it does hurt having to give up the Dulamel gloss).

Would I actually have the guts to try it with a customer, no. I'd be most worried about the difference between 2years cure time for the oil base (in my personal case) versus maybe 1 week that might be seen on the job between first and second coats.

Anway, thanks again, lots of good posts on this site.


----------

