# water-based paint for metal security doors



## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

I have a project coming up where the owner wants some metal screen doors on a few units repainted. 

I repainted me own before with Rustoleum oil-based paint and it turned out alright. 

I'd prefer not to use oil based for this project and I wanted to know if there is a good, tough product out there will provide a good protective coat. It has to be something I can get at HD, Sherwin Williams, Kelly Moore, etc. 

I also need to prime them prior to painting, so any recommendations on a water-based primer and paint that will work well in this application is much appreciated.


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## Allsurface (Aug 17, 2014)

There are lots of options for you. 
First thing, you need to make sure that the doors are clean. I run into this quite often where the oils from peoples hands prevents good adhesion around the doorknobs. Also, cleaning crews sometimes use cleaners to leave a residue on the doors, as well as when the floors are cleaned waxes for other contaminants will stick on the door. And I also do a quick sand whether is recommended or not, and a quick wipe to clean all the dust off. 

The products I'm going to recommend are all from Sherwin-Williams
If the doors have already been painted and you clean and sand,them a primer is not necessary. In this case you could ask the store for a high-quality direct to metal acrylic. Or you can use the pro classic waterborne alkyd, this has the durability of an oil paint, and it dries extremely quickly. These both have great adhesion properties. 
If you're interested in priming, I would use the extreme bonding primer, and once this is done you can use any high-quality semi gloss acrylic paint. 
I have used all the products that I have mentioned, for me, fast Recoat times are very important. 
I was doing a number of frames in an optical shop with pro classic waterborne alkyd, and within 15 minutes it was dry to the touch. 
I hope this helps, don't forget the most paint stores have a rep that would be happy to come by and discuss this with you.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Sherwin Williams Multi Surface Acrylic. No priming needed. Follow the prep advice from Allsurface above.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Is there any expectation by your client as to how long this paint should last? And how long it should look like it is nicely painted? Or is it just a quick repaint for a resale?


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## LynnJ (Mar 5, 2016)

*water-based paint*

There are several good 100% Acrylic products on the market that will hold up pretty well (Not as well as Oil). I have not had so much luck with SW, but KM has (had) a product called Dura-Poxy that was amazing. I think they may have reformulated and re-named it??

Good luck,

Lynn Jackson


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## ElTacoPaco (Dec 11, 2015)

Breakthrough anybody?


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## ElTacoPaco (Dec 11, 2015)

If they are looking to avoid ambering then Proclassic alkyd is not a good optiom


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

I'm still somewhat enamored with SW PI Waterbased Alkyd Urethane. Although I've yet to look it up for myself, SW rep says it has a pencil hardness of 5 (in gloss). Promar 200 oil based enamel has 2. That's strong if it's true. I like its other properties as well (based only on the 3 times that I've used it). 


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Sherwin Williams Multi Surface Acrylic. No priming needed. Follow the prep advice from Allsurface above.


Ditto.

The Dura-Poxy from KM is good for interior doors. Not so much for exterior ones.


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## Betheweb (Jul 26, 2016)

radio11 said:


> I'm still somewhat enamored with SW PI Waterbased Alkyd Urethane. Although I've yet to look it up for myself, SW rep says it has a pencil hardness of 5 (in gloss). Promar 200 oil based enamel has 2. That's strong if it's true. I like its other properties as well (based only on the 3 times that I've used it).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


PI Waterbased Alkyd Urethane is awesome if you can afford it. Levels out so nice. Love that stuff. Bummer it only comes in gallons.


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## Allsurface (Aug 17, 2014)

Break-through is only satin here. Probably a bit too flat for commercial doors.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

The client/owner plans on keeping the property so I want to provide something that will last.

The doors are exterior, in case I didn't mention it/it wasn't clear.

I also want to spray the doors since they are the perforated kind with lots of little angles and trim work on the door.

Fast drying/curing is important since the tenants will want to/need to close the doors at the end of the day. Weather has been around mid 70s lately.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

i would go to SW and buy Extreme Bond primer and Multi-Surface Acrylic. Problem solved. Make sure u give the doors a light scuff sand 1st. This will last many years. Long enough that when they redo the door its because they want a new color, not because of product failure.

EDIT:

dry times, Primer will be dry in around 30 min. The MSA in around 15. The MSA is a very durable coating. Much stronger than pro classic. Probably one of there strongest.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

SW Multi Surface or PPG Breakthrough you can't go wrong with either one of those.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Ppg Pitt tech or piit tech plus dtm or sw dtm. Easy touch up on a rental property and not too expensive. You can get the dtm primer if you're worried about adhesion...work it fast cuz it dries quickly.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

SW has a Metalatex in their industrial line that might be what you want.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

AlphaWolf said:


> i would go to SW and buy Extreme Bond primer and Multi-Surface Acrylic. Problem solved. Make sure u give the doors a light scuff sand 1st. This will last many years. Long enough that when they redo the door its because they want a new color, not because of product failure.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> dry times, Primer will be dry in around 30 min. The MSA in around 15. The MSA is a very durable coating. Much stronger than pro classic. Probably one of there strongest.




What size tips can be used for these?


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

beedoola said:


> What size tips can be used for these?


It'll state it on the can, but I'm guessing a x13 and up.

I would go Pitt Tech or breakthrough.
Use a quality waterborne primer that has rust inhibitive qualities


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

beedoola said:


> The client/owner plans on keeping the property so I want to provide something that will last.
> 
> The doors are exterior, in case I didn't mention it/it wasn't clear.
> 
> ...


You may want to look into the _Snap Dry_ by SW. Temperature can be an issue with it in drying so check the data sheet first.


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## beaglepower (May 5, 2015)

A system I like is SW Procryl primer and topcoat with DTM. The Procryl has great adhesion as well as rust inhibitive properties. The DTM gives a good durable finish and is available in Eg-shel, Semi gloss, or gloss. You can spray these with a X15-x17 tip. Could possibly use a X13 but may have to thin extra. With any latex, I would leave out any weather stripping for at least 3-4 days as to prevent the paint sticking to and then peeling from it.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

Does SW multi surface acrylic have quick block resistance like breakthrough, snap dry?


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

My recommendations are:
- PPG Pitt Tech Plus
- SW SherCryl HPA
- SW DTM

Unless you're dealing with a lot of surface rust SW ProCryl is an excellent waterbased primer. If you're dealing with a lot rust you might want to use something such as SW Ken Kromic.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

beedoola said:


> What size tips can be used for these?


I use a 408 Fine Finish for the primer and the finish top coat myself.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I think the DTM options given in this post will give you the best durability. Since you are spraying they would be what I would recommend. They tend not to lay out very well when they are brushed though. The big reason? Because nothing says "just adequate" like "multi-surface" on a paint can! Just ok on everything, the best on nothing. Use something from an industrial line that is specifically made for use on metal. SW DTM acrylic or Pitt-tech +.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

PACman said:


> I think the DTM options given in this post will give you the best durability. Since you are spraying they would be what I would recommend. They tend not to lay out very well when they are brushed though. The big reason? Because nothing says "just adequate" like "multi-surface" on a paint can! Just ok on everything, the best on nothing. Use something from an industrial line that is specifically made for use on metal. SW DTM acrylic or Pitt-tech +.


I would agree if it was new doors and fresh metal. As of now, he is not painting metal. He is painting paint on top of paint. In my experience, DTM on new doors is perfect your correct. Dtm on an already painted door not so much. DTM is meant to bond to bare metal not paint. I still say Extreme bond primer and MSA


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

AlphaWolf said:


> I would agree if it was new doors and fresh metal. As of now, he is not painting metal. He is painting paint on top of paint. In my experience, DTM on new doors is perfect your correct. Dtm on an already painted door not so much. DTM is meant to bond to bare metal not paint. I still say Extreme bond primer and MSA


BUT, the spec sheet for the SW All surface acrylic ALSO says that they won't be responsible for product failures unless ALL of the previous coating is removed back to bare metal. So your kind of stuck in reality. Even over Extreme bond they won't stand behind it at all, so I'd still say DTM simply because they aren't playing games with what it will and will not actually do. I have never had a problem with any customer using any DTM brand over an existing metal paint. Even over an existing regular house paint, if the prep is done correctly I have never seen a problem with it. It doesn't bond so tight that it will pull a sound paint film off.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PACman said:


> I think the DTM options given in this post will give you the best durability. Since you are spraying they would be what I would recommend. They tend not to lay out very well when they are brushed though. The big reason? Because nothing says "just adequate" like "multi-surface" on a paint can! Just ok on everything, the best on nothing. Use something from an industrial line that is specifically made for use on metal. SW DTM acrylic or Pitt-tech +.


Not sure I would agree with your "just adequate" assessment of it. It isn't perfect for every scenario, but then, what product is? So I agree, if there is a specific product that would be better for a specific application, then go for it. 

But in my day to day world, I want a product that will perform well in a variety of situations. I want to dial in on it and learn how to use it well so I don't have to be jumping around all over the place using something different, along with their respective learning curves, on every job. Again, IF a project requires a specific product in order for it to be done properly, then so be it. But for many of the door and cabinet jobs I have, the MSE is an excellent choice IMO.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

RH said:


> Not sure I would agree with your "just adequate" assessment of it. It isn't perfect for every scenario, but then, what product is? So I agree, if there is a specific product that would be better for a specific application, then go for it.
> 
> But in my day to day world, I want a product that will perform well in a variety of situations. I want to dial in on it and learn how to use it well so I don't have to be jumping around all over the place using something different, along with their respective learning curves, on every job. Again, IF a project requires a specific product in order for it to be done properly, then so be it. But for many of the door and cabinet jobs I have, the MSE is an excellent choice IMO.


Plus you only need to carry one can around in your truck! Next thing you know they'll put PRIMER in the paint too!


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

PACman said:


> Plus you only need to carry one can around in your truck! Next thing you know they'll put PRIMER in the paint too!




Now you're just dreaming--paint and primer in one can? 


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

radio11 said:


> Now you're just dreaming--paint and primer in one can?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They make that product at the dump in portland, or. It's called"metro". You name it, it's in there. And smells rotten to boot! Honestly though I've used it and was pretty impressed. No idea how it held up over the years, but they were interior apts (circa 1930's) converted to condos so, eh...got the job done and cheap, too @$35/5gal. No problems with the colors and it all comes in satin only. Perfect for that job.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Gwarel said:


> SW has a Metalatex in their industrial line that might be what you want.


That was a great product from SW we used to spray metal doors with it many years ago. Havnt heard that Metalatex in years good call.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

PACman said:


> Plus you only need to carry one can around in your truck! Next thing you know they'll put PRIMER in the paint too!


One can??? Oh, to dream the impossible dream...


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## antonpov (Sep 28, 2016)

What about if use a set of oil based paints for metal doors would it stick on it or not? I got info from a friend of mine who works on a local locksmith shop that they do it and it can stick on but if you try to peel off the paint, it will come out easily.


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Waterbased primer for metal? Good luck with that one. Stick to oil for primer and you open up your choices for waterbased topcoats. If Rustoleum proved well for you the first time, why chance failure with waterbased primer this time? Hope whatever you decide it works out for you.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

loaded brush said:


> Waterbased primer for metal? Good luck with that one. Stick to oil for primer and you open up your choices for waterbased topcoats. If Rustoleum proved well for you the first time, why chance failure with waterbased primer this time? Hope whatever you decide it works out for you.


It works. With all the voc regs in Canada we've been using it and it's been great.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

AlphaWolf said:


> I use a 408 Fine Finish for the primer and the finish top coat myself.


Yes, I have a couple .10 tips and was hoping I could use those over the larger sized tips. I think I have a 310,210 and 110


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

beedoola said:


> Yes, I have a couple .10 tips and was hoping I could use those over the larger sized tips. I think I have a 310,210 and 110



A tip with the size of XX-10 is to much paint flow in my opinion for a steel door. An XX-08 is much nicer. Less paint coming out means you don't have to move the gun as fast and the paint will atomize better. As far as the product I still stand by Extreme bond and MSA as a top coat. The joy of MSA is it don't matter the color, red blue yellow back ect.. its always as durable and long lasting. I know for a fact if you use EB primer and MSA top coat it will work and last 100 percent.


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## rubeelam (Oct 24, 2021)

I think SW DTM is the best option for doors with many corrosion marks on the surface. For example, if your garage door is already quite rusted, you can use this acrylic-based paint. However, I want to warn you that it dries very quickly. If you're going to mix it with something, it's better to act quickly. One day we were working with painting doors and accidentally closed ourselves from the inside. A locksmith was called. How good that an experienced locksmith can help you with your problem.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

rubeelam said:


> I think SW DTM is the best option for doors with many corrosion marks on the surface. For example, if your garage door is already quite rusted, you can use this acrylic-based paint. However, I want to warn you that it dries very quickly.


Be sure to check the dates threads were started. Some threads lend themselves to being resurrected, others, especially those with somewhat time sensitive questions, not so much.


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