# Spraying new drywall



## bunny (Dec 25, 2008)

Are there any drywall primers out there that won't furr up the drywall when spraying?


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## cullybear (Mar 10, 2008)

*Back Roll*

You have to back roll the primer to not let it fur up


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

cullybear said:


> You have to back roll the primer to not let it fur up


Pretty much, yeah


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## capitalcity painting (Apr 28, 2008)

Ive had it fur up when I rolled the primer on not just back rolled. Its from the drywall guy over sanding the paper area right outside the mud. Just sand after priming doesnt take long. I use the radius 360 sander that SW sells now as its alot easier to control then the standard rectangle sander and it goes from pole to pole easy.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Back rolling will help you get the results you are looking for.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

What about a Prep coat material?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Backrolling works as long as the paper is not oversanded, as Capital said. I have it when some drywallers gets the new porter cable power drywall sander. It seems to ensure oversanding. We had one house a couple years back where I think they had sanding half the drywall portion. That was not fun to sand out.


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## Joepro0000 (Jul 27, 2009)

When I sand my drywall I usually use a porter cable attached to a vaccuum. Then I do go over it again with a 360 for flex-edge, and make sure its sanded good. After I get a broom, and gently sweep excess dust off the walls. Some people even use a damp floor mop or floor sponge, and dampen the walls a little. Spray primer, then quickly sanding. Sanding in-between coats is a must!


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I bet elastomerics would cover it up because its so thick :whistling2: or maybe peelbond, thats thick too! :jester:

vvvv What this guys says though vvvvv is good advice.



capitalcity painting said:


> Ive had it fur up when I rolled the primer on not just back rolled. Its from the drywall guy over sanding the paper area right outside the mud. Just sand after priming doesnt take long. I use the radius 360 sander that SW sells now as its alot easier to control then the standard rectangle sander and it goes from pole to pole easy.


I dust with the Wooster dust eater, that thing is BOSS!


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

tsunamicontract said:


> I bet elastomerics would cover it up because its so thick :whistling2: or maybe peelbond, thats thick too! :jester:
> 
> vvvv What this guys says though vvvvv is good advice.
> 
> ...


Good to see you Tsu, have you moved yet?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

DeanV said:


> Backrolling works as long as the paper is not oversanded...


True that
Over-sanding the paper can be a problem also


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

I just sand after priming.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

bunny said:


> Are there any drywall primers out there that won't furr up the drywall when spraying?


Realy, its not the primer, its the dust. Drywallers use the porta-cable, I have three of em. Yes, I know that they fur up the paper, but thats the way it is, asking a drywaller not to use em would be like asking you to brush paint everything, no rollers, no airless. Things are the way they are.

Before you go into the RIGHT way to do stuff, we live in a world where we do what the market prescribes. When I paint em after drywalling em, I brush the wall with a broom, then spray and back-roll the primer, then sand between each coat. Problem solved. No primer will fix the problem by itself, its not the paint, its the dust and trying to get by without rolling or sanding.

Peace


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Answer to original question is NO. And another comment, its not dust that causes that. Have you seen how an airless blows dust off the floor when you shoot walls. Thats not dust capn, its paper, its torn, scuffed paper that causes that. I've put a lot into researching this exact topic. 

Not sure about you guys but when I pour a handful of drywall dust into water, it dissolves. And, when you shoot primer on CLEAN drywall simply hung without sanding or mud, it produces that fuzziness.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

Do we get an apple now?

:blink:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> Do we get an apple now?
> 
> :blink:


Take your pick


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Answer to original question is NO. And another comment, its not dust that causes that. Have you seen how an airless blows dust off the floor when you shoot walls. Thats not dust capn, its paper, its torn, scuffed paper that causes that. I've put a lot into researching this exact topic.
> 
> Not sure about you guys but when I pour a handful of drywall dust into water, it dissolves. And, when you shoot primer on CLEAN drywall simply hung without sanding or mud, it produces that fuzziness.


Respectfully sir, your wrong. an airless "freezes" or "captures" everything on the wall, including the DUST, but back-rolling it will "melt" it back into the paint. If it were not so, why do we sand between coats?

I don't mean to start a kick=fest, but I do understand drywall, a bunch:thumbsup:


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## torpainter (Sep 8, 2011)

I know this is an old post but wanted to bring this subject up again
its definately not dust. Why would there only be dust on the paper and not the taped areas?
The paper has been scored and its raises up when its painted I had a large room recently. I sprayed one area and in another area I sprayed and backrolled the primer. Same result. All the papered areas were like 80 grit sandpaper Sanding the crap out of it still left a texture which is very visible when looking down the wall It wont pass QC on government jobs 
I did two large test areas after sanding, spray and backroll and straight spray The issue is still noticable
The taper is saying its my fault because I sprayed it ,he does not know I rolled 70% of the room
The taper needs to skim the rough textured areas to smooth it out IMO
The GC is having a N.A.C.E qualified inspector to come in and resolve the issue Will keep you advised


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

torpainter said:


> I know this is an old post but wanted to bring this subject up again
> its definately not dust. Why would there only be dust on the paper and not the taped areas?
> The paper has been scored and its raises up when its painted I had a large room recently. I sprayed one area and in another area I sprayed and backrolled the primer. Same result. All the papered areas were like 80 grit sandpaper Sanding the crap out of it still left a texture which is very visible when looking down the wall It wont pass QC on government jobs
> I did two large test areas after sanding, spray and backroll and straight spray The issue is still noticable
> ...


Its not dust, Do not listen to that BS. Understand that the surface of drywall is different between board types and companies. We see phases of the same board go through batches of nice board vs not so nice. So you have variations in board surfaces and paints and primers will behave differently over them. 

Some of these drywall guys are using muds that don't sand to feather easy so they over-sand to feather to paper which destroys the surface paper. 

Grab yourself a magnifying glass and look at some board types when they are bare. 

If I can see a photo of it I can tell you whats going on. Some drywallers leave tell tale signs of their destruction. There are so damn many stupid myths about painting a book can be written. Some people have no damn clue what they're looking at.


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

All I know is that drywall is always rough after priming. That's why I always sand it after priming.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

One Coat Coverage said:


> All I know is that drywall is always rough after priming. That's why I always sand it after priming.


Sherwin Williams High Build rolled on new board produces a nice smooth finish unlike other primers which will turn it fuzzy. Damage is damage tho. Sanding SW high build is a snap vs tradition primer types generally speaking. 

Only problem with using SW high build is--it's not the best product to seal and equalize porosity between mud and board types. I know SW would love for me to believe it does, but I have yet to see it happen.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

High build is similar to spraying mud for lvl 5, but JP is right it will absorb more into the mud than the board. Applying a tick coat of high build and sanding will give you an amazing finish however, and using the correct finish coats can correctly seal things in.


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## JCDrywallLtd. (Jan 8, 2013)

Just wanted to share my thoughts on an old thread!
In my area its all smooth walls and ceilings! I mostly paint or at least primer everything I drywall for the simple reason. The best method that I believe eliminates the 3 substrates - sanded compound, sanded paper, unsanded drywall paper is to #1- spray Level 5 Sheetrock Tuff hide primer surfacer or #2- atleast CGC First coat primer. Once sanding either methods I know the walls are silky smooth and if im not going to paint, i know im giving the home owner the best possible base to move forward with, confident that whomever paints my drywall, it will look its best!. If i do paint, I paint with PPG Manor Hall always! The syncro or micro mesh properties that create equal porosity in the Manor Hall paint complement the equalized porosity rates of the "First Coat" primer or the "Tuff Hide" surfacer! I dont care much for Sealers! theyre all too thin Dry WFT. SoOO what if I use a bit more wall and ceiling paint! I believe I get some sealing properties using the 100% acrylic Manor hall.. My first roll is with a 15mm or 1/2" nap roller leaving a slight stipple, then a quick sand to dull the stipple, then finish roll with a 10mm nap to provide a smooth finish. I dont backroll my primer! I dust my walls with the Dust Eater! I dont backroll my ceilings! Any re-work on ceilings are rolled and are billed accordingly!


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## GrantsPainting (Feb 4, 2013)

*Don't Over Sand*

If the finish is furred... It is over sanded. But yes, back rolling AND lightly sanding will take care of any furring that occurs. If it is really an issue and you are going for a perfect finish then use an undercoat after a PVA Primer.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

capitalcity painting said:


> Ive had it fur up when I rolled the primer on not just back rolled. Its from the drywall guy over sanding the paper area right outside the mud. Just sand after priming doesnt take long. I use the radius 360 sander that SW sells now as its alot easier to control then the standard rectangle sander and it goes from pole to pole easy.


Ditto, Ditto.


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## nashvilletnFR (Dec 24, 2020)

Last Craftsman said:


> Do we get an apple now?
> 
> :blink:


?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

nashvilletnFR said:


> ?


?


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