# Anyone ever use PPG Speedhide?



## thatpaintguy (Jun 18, 2018)

What does it compare to and how were your end results with this product? Thanks


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## thatpaintguy (Jun 18, 2018)

And we’re talking Interior and exterior


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## Tundra02 (Oct 22, 2014)

SpeedHide is my go to budget level paint .Compares to Pro Mar 200 or A100 in the SW line but at a much lower cost .In the BM line INMO it compares to Super Spec


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

thatpaintguy said:


> What does it compare to and how were your end results with this product? Thanks


The exterior speedhide is junk compared to sun paint or manor Hall. If it’s the comparable to A-100, go with the A-100. On the interior version, their egshell has much less sheen than the 200 egshell. It’s almost a flat. It’s good for commercial. Now if you’re going semi gloss stay away from it. It’s almost like a gloss. It has a lot more sheen than the 200 and you better be prepared to mix it with a drill. The color separates so easy with the semi gloss. Also stay away from their speedhide interior oil semi gloss. It’s pretty much a gloss. The dtm alkyd from SW is much better.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

thatpaintguy said:


> What does it compare to and how were your end results with this product? Thanks


I did forget to mention the speedhide primer sealer is great. It’s as good as any out there.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont use it anymore, but I will say for interiors, speedhide touches up way better than PM200. As far as contractor grades go, My experience is KM (they have numbers, not names)>Ultraspec>Speedhide>PM200. I get speedhide much cheaper than the rest, so I would use it first.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Woodco said:


> I dont use it anymore, but I will say for interiors, speedhide touches up way better than PM200. As far as contractor grades go, My experience is KM (they have numbers, not names)>Ultraspec>Speedhide>PM200. I get speedhide much cheaper than the rest, so I would use it first.



wooco have you tried BM superhide zero?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

no, I have not.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I've sold thousand's of gallons of Speedhide and Promar over a twenty year period. I haven't applied much of either one, but i can tell you that the number of complaints i've had on Speedhide is probably 1/50th of the complaints i've had on promar 200. Don't really know what that means to a painter though. Could be price dependent.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Woodco said:


> no, I have not.



Your pricing would come around $20/gal maybe less. Tint's on gennex too. never used it though...


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## DBarnerjr (Jul 12, 2018)

I use promar 200 on a daily basis. Prefer over any commercial latex. Used speedhide on a Petco store once. Seemed really thin


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I do not understand why anyone would use low end paint, you're not paying for the paint, so why use crappy paint?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

chrisn said:


> I do not understand why anyone would use low end paint, you're not paying for the paint, so why use crappy paint?



Because they "get a good deal" seems to be the common consensus .


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

chrisn said:


> I do not understand why anyone would use low end paint, you're not paying for the paint, so why use crappy paint?


Well, most of us ARE paying for the paint...


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Woodco said:


> Well, most of us ARE paying for the paint...




Does not the customer 
pay for it?


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## Mace (Nov 16, 2017)

When I give my bids I factor in the price of the paint i use and I never use junk paint. Usually Manor Hall, Duration...nothing less than Cashmere.

Unless the customer says just use cheap stuff.....which is rare.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

chrisn said:


> Does not the customer
> pay for it?


No. I pay for the paint, then the customer pays me.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

CK_68847 said:


> I did forget to mention the speedhide primer sealer is great. It’s as good as any out there.


6-2 I'm assuming?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

so after thousands of color matches between the two, and complaints like crazy on one of them and not the other, i can honestly say one of them stand out as the better of the two and it is pretty obvious. But there are too many people who have somehow gotten a vested interest or something in one of the products, and they trash the other every chance they can, so i'm keeping my opinion to myself. And i don't sell or promote either one so i myself have no vested interest in one or the other. One of them is a much easier sell for painters who just want to take the easier route and deal with a crappy product instead of having to convince their customer to use a better product. Any painter that is honest, has no other "interest" in one or the other, and does a side by side blind comparison of the two would come to only one conclusion. One of them needs 2-3 coats on primed drywall to get a true color representation. The other is Speedhide. Package colors excluded of course. They are so full of mud they cover like crazy.


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## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

With material being 15 - 20% of the bid, I'm a firm believer that an ounce of prevention (pay a few more dollars) is certainly worth a pound of cure (paying several labor hours addressing issues from inferior products). Think of it as an insurance policy. The low end product may give the illusion of working today (maybe the lighting isn't too bright to show), but by God, it will get you soon enough. $50 - $100 for a product that works better and serves as a future business card when the neighbors ask about the paint job . . . priceless.




Woodco said:


> Well, most of us ARE paying for the paint...


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

SWPB said:


> With material being 15 - 20% of the bid, I'm a firm believer that an ounce of prevention (pay a few more dollars) is certainly worth a pound of cure (paying several labor hours addressing issues from inferior products). Think of it as an insurance policy. The low end product may give the illusion of working today (maybe the lighting isn't too bright to show), but by God, it will get you soon enough. $50 - $100 for a product that works better and serves as a future business card when the neighbors ask about the paint job . . . priceless.



Why are you assuming that I use low end, "inferior" products? I never speedhide is my go to, cuz its not.

But since you mentioned it, I used to work for a company that used speedhide for everything, even multimillion dollar mansions, and there was NEVER any issues with the paint. Hell, the eggshell even touched up great on smooth walls. So, all these "issues from inferior products" you speak of, dont even exist. There is absolutely no difference between the way a wall looks painted with speedhide, or something better quality. Im sure there is some better durability and washability, though, but that stuff doesnt really come back on the painter anyway, unless the client specifically asks for a specially durable product. 

I tell the client that my preferred paint is Pure Performance. Its a damn good paint, and I get a great deal on that, and thats what my bid will represent. However, I tell them if they would like to upgrade the paint to Manor Hall, or regal or whatever I can run those numbers as well. I have never had a client opt for the upgrade. So far, they would all rather save a couple hundred bucks, than go with the higher end paint on their interior walls, cuz they're just WALLS. Trim, cabinets or exteriors, on the other hand, is a different story....


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## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

Woodco, I apologize. I wasn't really aiming at you for that post per se, but I may have misunderstood your comment (and maybe it's timing in the thread) about you paying for the paint. My post is probably better understood if I didn't quote your post. Again, sorry about that.

On a similar note, you're right. Done properly, a wall with Speedhide or Pure Performance will be hard to distinguish by the homeowner / client at jobs completion, but that is focusing on solely the application aspect. No one wants to pay good money for something that looked good for 6 months, then went to crap. Hell, I remember buying a new home and everything looked fine. Gave it a few months and some wood trim areas ended up having busted out caulk joints. Guess what? The painter saved a few dollars and used freakin' C850 caulk from Uncle Sherwin. There is little to no elasticity in that product and it's price driven. Looked good for a little while . . . 

Point is, that stuff DOES really come back on the painter. All too often I fix someone elses work because they failed to manage the client's expectations. The painter is the expert and Ms Jones' has no clue about paint beyond familiarity with company names or colors. If I sell her on PM200 for a decent value, but she gets irate in 6 months over it's susceptibility to burnish or hold stains, then she isn't calling me back when she decides to change color schemes, nor will her friends bother to ask her who gave her this piss poor paint job (after a year of wear & tear). 

With over half of my workload being repeat customers, it does fall on us to educate them on what to expect out of the finished product (whatever it may be). Maybe they're willing to pay a few more bucks for wash ability? Or maybe they want to pay less because they're moving in one month and feel like kicking the ball down the road? Whatever the case, the painter has the power and the repeat customers trust our opinion. That's why they keep hiring / referring us. Albeit, some customers have to be sold on our opinion, but that's part of the job.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

SWPB said:


> Woodco, I apologize. I wasn't really aiming at you for that post per se, but I may have misunderstood your comment (and maybe it's timing in the thread) about you paying for the paint. My post is probably better understood if I didn't quote your post. Again, sorry about that.
> 
> On a similar note, you're right. Done properly, a wall with Speedhide or Pure Performance will be hard to distinguish by the homeowner / client at jobs completion, but that is focusing on solely the application aspect. No one wants to pay good money for something that looked good for 6 months, then went to crap. Hell, I remember buying a new home and everything looked fine. Gave it a few months and some wood trim areas ended up having busted out caulk joints. Guess what? The painter saved a few dollars and used freakin' C850 caulk from Uncle Sherwin. There is little to no elasticity in that product and it's price driven. Looked good for a little while . . .
> 
> ...


You can use whatever type of flat, egshell, or semi gloss product you want to for instance. It can be Duration to promar 200 or Manor Hall to speedhide. The walls aren’t going to hold up any better by a noticeable difference between the high end or commercial lines. If you’re worried on the workability of the paint you might have a point. Some brand lines cover better. Now if you want something to really hold up at least use a pre cat epoxy system but then you’re going to give up cosmetics for durability.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

SWPB said:


> Hell, I remember buying a new home and everything looked fine. Gave it a few months and some wood trim areas ended up having busted out caulk joints. Guess what? The painter saved a few dollars and used freakin' C850 caulk from Uncle Sherwin. There is little to no elasticity in that product and it's price driven. Looked good for a little while . . .


Okay... So, you're talking about caulking, and not paint...


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## SWPB (Oct 6, 2016)

Wow . . . So I have two young kiddos that love to put their dirty hands on the wall as they come down the stairway. The spec home was painted originally with Sherscrub (a divisional product from SW that's more of a tweener between 400 & 200--closer to 200 really) and those walls latched on to any dirt almost to the point where I wondered did it attract dirt from other areas (jk). Despite its name, Sherscrub has virtually no wash ability, although I'm sure it does well on the scrub cycle testing (who really cares about scrub cycles--people want wash ability when needed). Granted, the product covers good for new res construction (no primers, just two coats) and costs very little (about $12 per gallon). Does that mean it's just as good as a premium product in terms of longevity / wash ability / durability? 

Needless to say, after one year the stairway looked terrible as expected from a $12 per gallon product. I had no choice, but to repaint. Using a demo gallon, I decided to give Regal Select a whirl. Guess what? Four years later, not a single mark nor the need to wipe off the surface. Seriously, none. I'm not sure what they put in that mix, but it did not latch on to any of the dirt like the inexpensive option.

So when you say "walls aren’t going to hold up any better by a noticeable difference between the high end or commercial lines," maybe I'm misunderstanding, but there's a reason a resin costs twice as much as an economical one. If you want to have some real fun, go demo a gallon of Scuff-X and paint half of a busy school corridor (one that tends to mark up) with it and the other half with Pre-Cat. It's no contest, Scuff-X does not allow the wall to mark nearly as bad as Pre-Cat and it's why many of our local hotels / hospitals / retirement communities have begun to shift.

Now the dilemma is: do you sell Scuff-X to the client that calls you every year to repaint busy corridors or do you introduce them to a product that extends their normal life cycle by 3 or 4? I'd prefer them get the solution from my company rather than risk someone else introducing them to it and stealing all of my other work on their property. Almost a Catch 22 really . . . 

Like everything else in life, you get what you pay for. Is the most expensive item the solution for every problem? No. There's a time & place for all of these coatings and as I mentioned above, it's up to us to manage the customer's expectation. It's no different than explaining why your bid on a $1M home might be 20% more than the apartment painter who blows & go using PM700 as his go to product--definitely not an apples to apples comparison.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I just never use "contractor pro" paints of any kind. Call me shy, but, too often they are worse than bad. I just steer clear. If the HO wants that stuff, they need to ghire someone else.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

jennifertemple said:


> I just never use "contractor pro" paints of any kind. Call me shy, but, too often they are worse than bad. I just steer clear. If the HO wants that stuff, they need to ghire someone else.




I just do not let the home owner dictate what paint I will use. I have used Speedhide maybe 2 times and they were rentals, which I rarely do.


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## PaPainter724 (Apr 22, 2016)

I find this whole thing amusing. I use thousands of gallons of speedhide every year on high end commercial jobs (because that's literally what is always called for in the spec book), and I go back to these jobs which are far more high traffic than most houses and have regular cleaning crews and the paint looks as good as it did on day one or only mildly worn down several years later. I've never once gotten a call from a company complaining about paint durability, and I typically get multiple repeat business contracts for new projects from old clients. Contractor grade paint doesn't mean garbage. It means that it's at point where you can do new construction and expect it to hold up without being a premium home interior product. But that certainly doesn't mean it can't or shouldnt be used in homes. My only true complaint with Speedhide is that if you're doing a repaint over very very cheap paints, it will sometimes take a bit more on the cut in to get true coverage; however, I've found that true with most paints. Oh, and the 6-2 speedhide primer? Phenomenal.


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