# Wallpaper is off but glue remains



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

My first wallpaper removal job. It started off real easy. The paper just pealed off with out having to score it or wet it. It just pealed right off. But the paste remained. So I took some hot water(2/3) and vinegar(1/3) and sprayed a section of the wall and proceeded to scrape the paste off. Well I actually also scraped the finish under the paste as well. I have created a mess. After enough trials trying to do it this way I switched to warm water and and UGL MEX cleaning solution and washed down the walls with a rag and green scrubby. However this has still left paste on the walls but it's smooth. 

My question is this, do I need to prime the walls before I fix them with joint compound? I would prime again after that. Do I need to use an oil base primer?

Also I never rinsed the walls. If I prime over the UGL MEX without a rinse will this be an issue?

Thank in advance.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I posted about this a few months back. Was going to use SW’s Pro-Block over a similar situation but was advised to use Gardz instead. Followed the advice and had great results. 

Note - there was one wall that seemed to be clear of the paste residue so I decided to skip priming it - which was mistake since even a slight amount is enough to cause issues.


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

RH said:


> I posted about this a few months back. Was going to use SW’s Pro-Block over a similar situation but was advised to use Gardz instead. Followed the advice and had great results.
> 
> Note - there was one wall that seemed to be clear of the paste residue so I decided to skip priming it - which was mistake since even a slight amount is enough to cause issues.


Would I need to prime before skim coating. I know it never hurts, so I may be answering my own question. 

Because I'm priming do I need to go back and rinse the walls to remove any UGL MEX residue?


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

cardgunner said:


> Would I need to prime before skim coating. I know it never hurts, so I may be answering my own question.
> 
> Because I'm priming do I need to go back and rinse the walls to remove any UGL MEX residue?


Sorry, missed the skim coating part. Personally, I would just prime and skip the rinsing - doing both seems like overkill.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

cardgunner said:


> My first wallpaper removal job. It started off real easy. The paper just pealed off with out having to score it or wet it. It just pealed right off. But the paste remained. So I took some hot water(2/3) and vinegar(1/3) and sprayed a section of the wall and proceeded to scrape the paste off. Well I actually also scraped the finish under the paste as well. I have created a mess. After enough trials trying to do it this way I switched to warm water and and UGL MEX cleaning solution and washed down the walls with a rag and green scrubby. However this has still left paste on the walls but it's smooth.
> 
> My question is this, do I need to prime the walls before I fix them with joint compound? I would prime again after that. Do I need to use an oil base primer?
> 
> ...


Prime with gaurdz or coverstain.
Skim with mud
Prime again with acrylic primer
Continue with project..
I would not skip any of these steps.

It's also best to get as much glue off as possible.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Prime with gaurdz or coverstain.
> Skim with mud
> Prime again with acrylic primer
> Continue with project..
> ...


Agree.I like to Gardz then skim out two coats of mud followed by a light sanding for a mirror finish then seal walls with Gardz once more cause it seems to harden up soft skim muds making them more durable.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Yeah, no need to switch primers.


----------



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

cardgunner said:


> My first wallpaper removal job. It started off real easy. The paper just pealed off with out having to score it or wet it. It just pealed right off. But the paste remained. So I took some hot water(2/3) and vinegar(1/3) and sprayed a section of the wall and proceeded to scrape the paste off. Well I actually also scraped the finish under the paste as well. I have created a mess. After enough trials trying to do it this way I switched to warm water and and UGL MEX cleaning solution and washed down the walls with a rag and green scrubby. However this has still left paste on the walls but it's smooth.
> 
> My question is this, do I need to prime the walls before I fix them with joint compound? I would prime again after that. Do I need to use an oil base primer?
> 
> ...


Use a garden sprayer or roller and apply some wallpaper removal chemical to one wall at a time.

Let it sit for 5 minutes and then respray a 5' wide section. Use a 6" wide putty knife and scrape the glue off.

Have two buckets of warm water with: 

1. TSP 

2. Hot water for rinsing.

Use a Bee sponge mop for this.[Actually two mops, one for each bucket]. It's always important to rinse with hot water right after the TSP. I've done a lot of wallpaper removal and this method is the best for me.

Allow to dry for 3-4 hours and then do a light pole sand. Next step you start the prep work with mudd. 

If you have punched through the drywall paper when scraping wallpaper off ( i know this time it came off in sheets) I use "Gardz" or Zinsser Coverstain and spot prime the paper before mudding.


----------



## The Montana Painter (Dec 2, 2018)

I have done a lot of wallpaper removal and repaint. I use hot water and diff(or some dawn dish soap) which allows the water to penetrate better and not evaporate as fast. I apply the solution via garden sprayer. The Key is to wait and remove only enough paper ( i razor cut off desired amount)as you can effectively remove the softened glue before it drys. Next i use a 6 inch blade to remove glue and scrape into a mud pan. Best to use 3 5gal pails of hot water1/2 full and rotate as they get dirty. #1 stiff bristle floor brush and sponge#2 sponge and #3 sponge....System works well....gardz works well, wish we had that back in the day!!!!! Just passing on my penny's worth


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

One more person says "glue" and Im gonna freak out.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Glue, glue, glue...:devil3:


----------



## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Woodco said:


> One more person says "glue" and Im gonna freak out.


Sorry but we already have a Chrisn.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

loaded brush said:


> Sorry but we already have a Chrisn.


Normally, I dont care, but the word Glue has appeared too many times... And hes hasnt been around lately anyway.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Woodco said:


> Yeah, no need to switch primers.


The reason I like to prime with a solid coloured primer after the skim coat, is that it will show any imperfections that need a touch up. Also you can tint it to your desired colour for your top coat of paint or wallpaper.
Since Gardz is clear, it's really hard to tell if your surface is ready for finishing. 

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


----------



## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I admire those of you doing wallpaper removal. I did it and still do it, but absolutely hate it. I used to pride myself on never getting stumped about removing paper. I always seemed to come up with something to get it off, but, in the last few years I've been stumped 2 or 3 times and ended up skim coating over paper I couldn't remove. So very frustrating. I know you all know that and I'm speaking to the choir. Must be getting old and the frustration factor is ratcheted up.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> The reason I like to prime with a solid coloured primer after the skim coat, is that it will show any imperfections that need a touch up. Also you can tint it to your desired colour for your top coat of paint or wallpaper.
> Since Gardz is clear, it's really hard to tell if your surface is ready for finishing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


Gardz makes it shiny. You can see everything.


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

My BM Dealer didn't have Gardz but had AllPrime. Said it was the same. Same mfg.

https://www.amazon.com/ALLPRIME-Wat...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BS54NDPXDYDZKVBT61YX

I'm sure it will work out. I went over last night and rinsed all the walls to remove any residue left from the UGL MEX, just to be on the safe side. Priming on Friday and skim coating Saturday.


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> The reason I like to prime with a solid coloured primer after the skim coat, is that it will show any imperfections that need a touch up. Also you can tint it to your desired colour for your top coat of paint or wallpaper.
> Since Gardz is clear, it's really hard to tell if your surface is ready for finishing.


Good point. After skim coating the walls I'll see.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

cardgunner said:


> My BM Dealer didn't have Gardz but had AllPrime. Said it was the same. Same mfg.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ALLPRIME-Wat...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BS54NDPXDYDZKVBT61YX
> 
> I'm sure it will work out. I went over last night and rinsed all the walls to remove any residue left from the UGL MEX, just to be on the safe side.


Are they really charging you $50??? You can buy RX-35 for around $22 a gallon at SW and Lowes. Its not as good as gardz, but it gets the job done.


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

Woodco said:


> Are they really charging you $50??? You can buy RX-35 for around $22 a gallon at SW and Lowes. Its not as good as gardz, but it gets the job done.



LOL. No I think I got it for $24 from my BM Dealer. I just used Amazon as a source for reference of product.


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Allprime vs Gardz*



cardgunner said:


> My BM Dealer didn't have Gardz but had AllPrime. Said it was the same. Same mfg.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ALLPRIME-Wat...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BS54NDPXDYDZKVBT61YX
> 
> I'm sure it will work out. I went over last night and rinsed all the walls to remove any residue left from the UGL MEX, just to be on the safe side. Priming on Friday and skim coating Saturday.


I have tried to find more info online for Allprime. If I were you I would call Erik Jannusch at Rustoleum (Zinsser's parent company) and ask him what the difference is. Erik's number is 877-385-8155.

futtyos


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Safe and Simple wallpaper removal solution*



cardgunner said:


> My first wallpaper removal job. It started off real easy. The paper just pealed off with out having to score it or wet it. It just pealed right off. But the paste remained. So I took some hot water(2/3) and vinegar(1/3) and sprayed a section of the wall and proceeded to scrape the paste off. Well I actually also scraped the finish under the paste as well. I have created a mess. After enough trials trying to do it this way I switched to warm water and and UGL MEX cleaning solution and washed down the walls with a rag and green scrubby. However this has still left paste on the walls but it's smooth.
> 
> My question is this, do I need to prime the walls before I fix them with joint compound? I would prime again after that. Do I need to use an oil base primer?
> 
> ...


I am surprised that no one has mentioned Safe and Simple at this thread. I learned about Safe and Simple from others here at Paint Talk:

https://safeandsimple.mysimplestore.com/

I used it early last summer on a job and was pleased with the results. Wallpaper stripping jobs can differ from one to another, so it may be hard to know what is the best route. I try to take the wallpaper off dry if I can. If this happens it usually leaves the paper backing. If this is the case, I try to wet the backing with hot water so I can peel it off in whole sheets. Once the paper if off, I usually keep spraying with hot water to soften up the adhesive wallpaper paste so it can be scrubbed off with a green Scotch Brite pad (which I keep rinsing in a 5 gal bucket of hot water unless a sink is handy) or, if the paste softens up easily, I will use a large sponge that is easy to squeeze and easy to rinse out quickly. I try to stay away from using spackle knives if possible.

The last job I did I used Safe and Simple solution when spraying the adhesive wallpaper paste. I found that I could stay in one 4 sq ft area and clean this by spraying followed by scrubbing until done, then move to the next area. I used to keep spraying large areas ahead of me so that the adhesive wallpaper paste would continue to soften over time, but the Safe and Simple seems to work fast.

The way I tell if the adhesvie wallpaper paste is all off is when the scrub pad or sponge goes over the wall without it feeling slimy. If I have any doubts that anything is left on the wall I will typically lick the surface with my tongue as I am very familiar with eating adhesive wallpaper paste as a child up until I turned about 40 years old.

futtyos


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

*Allprime vs Gardz*



futtyos said:


> I have tried to find more info online for Allprime. If I were you I would call Erik Jannusch at Rustoleum (Zinsser's parent company) and ask him what the difference is. Erik's number is 877-385-8155.
> 
> futtyos


So I talked with Brittany at Zinsser. She confirmed Allprime is the same as GARDZ. It is just labeled differently for some of the special paint stores. But make certain it is the Allprime that says on the label "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer". There are a few different Zinsser AllPrime's. But the "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer" is GARDZ. Just a different label.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

cardgunner said:


> So I talked with Brittany at Zinsser. She confirmed Allprime is the same as GARDZ. It is just labeled differently for some of the special paint stores. But make certain it is the Allprime that says on the label "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer". There are a few different Zinsser AllPrime's. But the "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer" is GARDZ. Just a different label.


I believe I can confirm this information. Miller carries the "Allprime" label but according to them it is the same as Gardz.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

RH said:


> I believe I can confirm this information. Miller carries the "Allprime" label but according to them it is the same as Gardz.


Thanks for the Research, Hound.:wink:


----------



## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

futtyos said:


> I have tried to find more info online for Allprime. If I were you I would call Erik Jannusch at Rustoleum (Zinsser's parent company) and ask him what the difference is. Erik's number is 877-385-8155.
> 
> futtyos


It's only about 10pm so I'll call him later, I'll be wearing Khakis......


----------



## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Gardz v Allprime price*



cardgunner said:


> So I talked with Brittany at Zinsser. She confirmed Allprime is the same as GARDZ. It is just labeled differently for some of the special paint stores. But make certain it is the Allprime that says on the label "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer". There are a few different Zinsser AllPrime's. But the "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer" is GARDZ. Just a different label.


I am wondering what price you are paying for Allprime. I used to stop by Menard's when I was near one to pick up Gardz for 21.97 a gallon. When I realized that my local BM dealer was carrying it for 25.00 a gallon I started buying it there as it is less than a mile from my house. Now they are selling it for the same price as Menard's.

Cardgunner, if I were you I would check and see if there is a Scotch Paints Draw-Tite dealer near you. Here is the link for Draw-Tite:

https://scotchpaint.com/store.drawtite.html

And here is the link for dealers near you (possibly):

https://scotchpaint.com/drawtitedist.html

Those here who have used both Gardz (Allprime) and Draw-Tite seem to prefer Draw-Tite even though it is more expensive than Gardz. If you are paying the Amazon price of 50.00 for Allprime/Gardz, you will pay less for Draw-Tite.

futtyos


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

futtyos said:


> I am wondering what price you are paying for Allprime. I used to stop by Menard's when I was near one to pick up Gardz for 21.97 a gallon. When I realized that my local BM dealer was carrying it for 25.00 a gallon I started buying it there as it is less than a mile from my house. Now they are selling it for the same price as Menard's.
> 
> Cardgunner, if I were you I would check and see if there is a Scotch Paints Draw-Tite dealer near you. Here is the link for Draw-Tite:
> 
> ...


He's already explainede that its only about $25 a gallon at his BM store.


----------



## JMoorhouse (Aug 26, 2018)

the only reason to prime first is if you have torn paper. Use Guards if the paper is torn or separated. Then proceed with your normal process.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

JMoorhouse said:


> the only reason to prime first is if you have torn paper. Use Guards if the paper is torn or separated. Then proceed with your normal process.


Wrong. Gardz seals and encapsulates any remaining paste residue.


----------



## K-Boom Paint (Apr 2, 2018)

We have always used an oil primer after removing paper and all glue. Never had an issue.


----------



## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Woodco said:


> Gardz makes it shiny. You can see everything.


Over existing walls, and especially over new sheetrock, I'd most wholeheartedly disagree! I've had GC's tell me after 2 coats of Guardz, that I never primed the walls that were to be hung.:surprise:


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Brushman4 said:


> Over existing walls, and especially over new sheetrock, I'd most wholeheartedly disagree! I've had GC's tell me after 2 coats of Guardz, that I never primed the walls that were to be hung.:surprise:


It works, but I just feel better having a solid colour on the wall for some reason..

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> It works, but I just feel better having a solid colour on the wall for some reason..
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


I'm with you on this. I used the Allprime but wish it was solid. I also wish i could skim coat better. Are painters supposed to be good skim coaters? My lord I have been on this job 4 days trying to fix my screw ups. (Granted it is at night and only and hour or so each night but WTH)


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

cardgunner said:


> I'm with you on this. I used the Allprime but wish it was solid. I also wish i could skim coat better. Are painters supposed to be good skim coaters? My lord I have been on this job 4 days trying to fix my screw ups. (Granted it is at night and only and hour or so each night but WTH)


There's a learning curve for sure. Taping and mudding as a rule is a trade on its own. However, over here In Newfoundland everyone is a Painter/plasterer. (Bizarre). Either way, I learned very quickly how to completely tape and mud a whole house. Skimming is actually the easiest part. Just thin your mud a bit, use a 10-12" trowel and hawk. Put it on and take it off. And keep your mud clean!
Lots of good utube videos on it.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


----------



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> There's a learning curve for sure. Taping and mudding as a rule is a trade on its own. However, over here In Newfoundland everyone is a Painter/plasterer. (Bizarre). Either way, I learned very quickly how to completely tape and mud a whole house. Skimming is actually the easiest part. Just thin your mud a bit, use a 10-12" trowel and hawk. Put it on and take it off. And keep your mud clean!
> Lots of good utube videos on it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


Well I had the right trowel.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Brushman4 said:


> Over existing walls, and especially over new sheetrock, I'd most wholeheartedly disagree! I've had GC's tell me after 2 coats of Guardz, that I never primed the walls that were to be hung.:surprise:


Your GC's didnt notice that the walls were glossy, and that the drywall paper was super dark? You can hardly blame gardz for other peoples stupidity...


----------



## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

cardgunner said:


> My BM Dealer didn't have Gardz but had AllPrime. Said it was the same. Same mfg.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ALLPRIME-Wat...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BS54NDPXDYDZKVBT61YX


Interesting, have not heard of that one. So there are 4 now that I'm aware of: Zinsser Gardz, Zinsser AllPrime, Roman PRO-999 Rx-35, and Kilz Klear. Why that weird name for Roman I have no idea, don't know where the PRO-999 came from, it used to be just Rx-35. Why Zinsser now has 2 products that seem to do the same thing I have no idea.

Ideally, I would prime first with Gardz, then mud and sand, then prime with Gardz again. If I could only do it one time, I suppose I would do it first before mudding. It helps seal any trouble areas that might bubble up with mud applied to them.

By the way, Gardz is probably a better sealer than almost any other primer you can use for general drywall priming in good condition as well. The paint will react differently than you're used to - it will take a lot longer to dry because it can't "dry" backward into the drywall/joint compound/previous paint finish. But the finish should be perfect.

Also by the way, I would never use TSP on walls these days.


----------



## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

futtyos said:


> I am surprised that no one has mentioned Safe and Simple at this thread. I learned about Safe and Simple from others here at Paint Talk:
> 
> https://safeandsimple.mysimplestore.com/



I have some and have used it, but in my experience, either the wallpaper is going to come off fairly easily with just hot water and scraping, in which case Safe and Simple isn't really needed, or it's not. And if it's not, Safe and Simple isn't going to help you much if any. Again, just my experience.


----------



## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

K-Boom Paint said:


> We have always used an oil primer after removing paper and all glue. Never had an issue.



Oil will work well also, but why use an oil based product when a water based product works well?


----------



## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Your GC's didnt notice that the walls were glossy, and that the drywall paper was super dark? You can hardly blame gardz for other peoples stupidity...



Agree. I would not trust any contractor who can't tell Gardz is on the wall. He's looking for a solid color and doesn't see it, which means some learning is in order. I understand that learning new things is not high priority for many in this industry.


----------



## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

cardgunner said:


> So I talked with Brittany at Zinsser. She confirmed Allprime is the same as GARDZ. It is just labeled differently for some of the special paint stores. But make certain it is the Allprime that says on the label "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer". There are a few different Zinsser AllPrime's. But the "Water-Base Problem Surface Sealer" is GARDZ. Just a different label.


Futty, what's your favorite flavor (brand)?


----------



## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Woodco said:


> Your GC's didnt notice that the walls were glossy, and that the drywall paper was super dark? You can hardly blame gardz for other peoples stupidity...


Hey, don't blame me for the sins of the GC, many of these super's get their Construction Management degree and before the ink on it has dried they are running a big job.
I've seen them have the painters scheduled before the tapers, figure that one out.
In the '90s we had like 30 new cellular phone store buildouts with the same GC, we were doing the taping and paint and on the majority of them when the rock was finished he had the vinyl base and carpet put down. Ever try and tape a seam with the base already on? Looks like $hit!


----------



## Fman (Aug 20, 2011)

brushman4 said:


> hey, don't blame me for the sins of the gc, many of these super's get their construction management degree and before the ink on it has dried they are running a big job.
> I've seen them have the painters scheduled before the tapers, figure that one out.
> In the '90s we had like 30 new cellular phone store buildouts with the same gc, we were doing the taping and paint and on the majority of them when the rock was finished he had the vinyl base and carpet put down. Ever try and tape a seam with the base already on? Looks like $hit!


yikes!


----------

