# Interior repaints... Oil vs Latex



## Canadian Painter (Dec 12, 2008)

Hi all,
I have been operating a painting company the last 4 years, and have primarity been doing interior residential repaints and deck refinishing. 
I am in the process of growing my business, so I will have a few questions as I go.

First off, in regards to oil vs latex- some say oil is more durable (usually for trim)... in your expereince is this the case? I know if I am converting, an oi-based prime is required, but are there any real benefits to using oil unless it is requested?

Am I correct in assuming that for any new/unpainted surface, a latex based paint is the way to go?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I like oil very much and would use it more but trim is usually white and oil yellows after about a month or two.If I have a dark color to use and I'm brushing it, and I want it to lay out good then I would use oil.The good thing about oil is the open time is great and if you get a drop on something it comes up with a little thinner real easy.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I too like oil. I used high gloss industrial enamel for years on my trim before i made the switch to latex enamel. My reasons for switching was i got tired of dealing with paint thinner. it is about 7-8 bucks a gallon now.
The yellowing John talks about is true but i used to have two shots of black added to a gallon of white and this greatly reduced the yellowing. Yellowing is primarily where a lack of sunlight is evident.
Oil is a dying breed here in the states though.

Yes go with a latex enamel.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

They also have some waterborne paints that are a blend of oil and water base that also work good.It goes on as a water base and dries as to oil base, but it too will turn yellow.


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## Canadian Painter (Dec 12, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> Oil is a dying breed here in the states though.
> 
> Yes go with a latex enamel.


Thanks very much guys!
It seems like oil is on it's last legs here in Canada as well.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

I also enjoy working with oil enamels
They do still have a slight durability advantage over (similar quality) waterborne enamels, but also can tend to yellow in the absence of sunlight

As they oils have been de-spec'd over the last few years, and the WBs are so much better then they were, it's a small advantage to oils at this point (with the possible problem of yellowing)

Looking at the big picture, as the re-paints in the future will quite likely be WB (due to EPA regs), might as well just do WB now


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## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

Hmm thought I was "The Canadian Painter" hehehehe If your in western Canada, try Cloverdales Super II Semigloss or their Ecologic semigloss waterborne. No yellowing and are more durable then the Interior semigloss oils.

BTW, I'm in Alberta East of Edmonton.. - 33C here tonight... think I'll wait on my deck hehehe. Where in Canada do you hail from??

Cheers


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## Canadian Painter (Dec 12, 2008)

CobraCDN said:


> Hmm thought I was "The Canadian Painter" hehehehe If your in western Canada, try Cloverdales Super II Semigloss or their Ecologic semigloss waterborne. No yellowing and are more durable then the Interior semigloss oils.
> 
> BTW, I'm in Alberta East of Edmonton.. - 33C here tonight... think I'll wait on my deck hehehe. Where in Canada do you hail from??
> 
> Cheers


Im just outside of Toronto- I didn't realize there were a few other Canadians on the site, or I would have been a bit more specific!
Its definitely not that cold here! We are actually just getting a bit of rain...


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## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

Well welcome to the site.. hope to see you posting frequently  

Cheers


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## GA Painter (Jan 29, 2009)

I like oil. It is all we use on our trim. Oil based paint lays down better and I enjoy using it (with a little penetrol). The clean up is a little more time consuming and expensive. I also have to buy oil brushes more frequently.


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## FoilEffects (Dec 19, 2007)

Love Oil!!! Latex causes call backs, Hate Callbacks - I use oil (unless I am graining wood finishes, then I use Setcoat ($70 a gallon).


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I am beginning to wonder how well oil sticks to older oil paint, even after scuffing and using a liquid deglosser.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

slickshift said:


> I also enjoy working with oil enamels
> They do still have a slight durability advantage over (similar quality) waterborne enamels, but also can tend to yellow in the absence of sunlight
> 
> As they oils have been de-spec'd over the last few years, and the WBs are so much better then they were, it's a small advantage to oils at this point (with the possible problem of yellowing)
> ...




:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Last time I used P&L Accolade semigloss on trim - my reaction was that it looked better than oil Impervo. And last time I used oil Impervo - it just didn't have enough of the old oil paint qualities for me to endure all the negatives about - spirits smell and cleanup - spatter - etc. I think oil based paint has a snob appeal now - now I get these totally clueless homeowners that are just now asking about oil based trim paints - as that's what their friend told them to use - they see how the newer waterbournes look, and are educated about the 'yellowing' - and they're hooked on the newer technology. As well - I have looked at some of my older oil work with Impervo - and it ain't as durable as it use to be - no more durable than an Accolade - or 2010 - or an Ultra.


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## GAPainter (Feb 5, 2009)

I'd recommend SW's ProClassic Interior Semi-gloss latex. Hence the name "ProClassic" it gives a look that's similiar to the old oils.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

GAPainter said:


> I'd recommend SW's ProClassic Interior Semi-gloss latex. Hence the name "ProClassic" it gives a look that's similiar to the old oils.


Man I hate working with that stuff. It's runny and there is not much open time. (although some Floetrol helps) It does look good though.

I use either Muralo's Ultra or PPG's Speedhide. (Which has the Master Paint Institutes highest ratings, 3000 scrub cycles)


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Check this out.

http://www.specifypaint.com/APL/paintinfo_APL/MpiNumber.asp?ID=141000


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## cullybear (Mar 10, 2008)

Use proclassic waterborne or ppg manor hall,get it done right ,get the check and move on.To compete with other painters nowadays you must be up on latest trends to make painting work more efficient,which means more profitable,


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Nice link BB:thumbsup:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

cullybear said:


> Use proclassic waterborne or ppg manor hall,get it done right ,get the check and move on.To compete with other painters nowadays you must be up on latest trends to make painting work more efficient,which means more profitable,


 
I have used manor hall one time and liked it. 

If I'd have to choose oil or latex I would go with Muralo waterborne.

Got a nice size home comming up and the homeowner wants oil, and i'm trying to talk him out of it. Due to mostly the mess with thinner and all. And the times are changeing and oil isnt what it once was.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Bender said:


> Nice link BB:thumbsup:


If you search around on it there is a nice, kind of slam on Consumer Reports and thier testing methods. (and the products they chose)


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Here it is:

http://www.paintinfo.com/news/ConsumersTests.html


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

That is awesome!
Ya know, I never thought about it that way, "High quality for a consumer isn't necessarily high quality to a commercial contractor".


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I am beginning to wonder how well oil sticks to older oil paint, even after scuffing and using a liquid deglosser.


 
I would use the deglosser, then scuff. If you scuff then use anything that can melt the paint a little, you are smoothing the scuffs back out again.

Scuff very, very, thoroughly every where, every edge. Use sandpaper and sponge for different parts of same trim.

We can get acrylic enamel to stick to oil very well.

Of course you cant take a brillo pad to it, but I instruct my customers not to. Problem solved.

I tell customers that the amount you would have to scrub a piece of trim in order to see the difference between oil and acrylic, is more than you would want to subject the oil to any way.


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## VEKO (Oct 22, 2012)

just today I was having a conversation about oil-painted trims and what to do with them, and this guy who works in a pro company told me that their boss started to get this Dulux X-pert Waterbourne Alkyd, for a lot of jobs, because it goes on oil-painted surface without rough sanding and primers. What about brush by the way? Can I use my regular brush that I use for latex? And clean it and continue ussing it for latex after? What is this stuff anyways? )


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## VEKO (Oct 22, 2012)

and - does it yellow like oil does?


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

I use a product called Renaissance. It's a hybrid waterborne alkyd paint. I use it for all the previously oil painted trim and it goes on just like a oil, and if you do it right it looks and feels like an oil finish. And you only need water to clean it. I'm not too sure if it will go yellow though but I should look into that


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Painter-Aaron said:


> I use a product called Renaissance. It's a hybrid waterborne alkyd paint. I use it for all the previously oil painted trim and it goes on just like a oil, and if you do it right it looks and feels like an oil finish. And you only need water to clean it. I'm not too sure if it will go yellow though but I should look into that


Do you like Renaissance as being better than Advance from BM, and All Surface Enamel or Pro classic from SW, and monamel from GP? If so why?

Each store seems to have their own hybrid wateborne alkyd paint, and Cloverdale's Renaissance is the only one I have NOT used.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

products like BM Advanced is the new oil. I don't think manufactures will ever improve oils, as they haven't in many years. Manufacturers know oil is on the way out. so they've been putting their efforts in to advancing waterborne products, wich make these probuct much more superior. imo


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

The thing I liked about oils is that they had a certain depth to them, even if you could match the sheen with a latex it still didn't have the depth.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Do you like Renaissance as being better than Advance from BM, and All Surface Enamel or Pro classic from SW, and monamel from GP? If so why?
> 
> Each store seems to have their own hybrid wateborne alkyd paint, and Cloverdale's Renaissance is the only one I have NOT used.


Renaissance is the only hybrid paint I have used. It is good but I find if I add a little flo-tral to it, it helps level it out a bit more. I guess you could say it still goes on like oil did. I will have to give the other brands a whirl so I can really compare which one I prefer the most.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Painter-Aaron said:


> Renaissance is the only hybrid paint I have used. It is good but I find if I add a little flo-tral to it, it helps level it out a bit more. I guess you could say it still goes on like oil did. I will have to give the other brands a whirl so I can really compare which one I prefer the most.


All Surface Enamel goes on like a latex paint for sure... Advance, pro classic & monamel likely go on similar to Renaissance!


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> products like BM Advanced is the new oil. I don't think manufactures will ever improve oils, as they haven't in many years. Manufacturers know oil is on the way out. so they've been putting their efforts in to advancing waterborne products, wich make these probuct much more superior. imo


 
the big question is do the new water borne hybrid oils still yellow????


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

chrisn said:


> the big question is do the new water borne hybrid oils still yellow????


I don't think so


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

chrisn said:


> the big question is do the new water borne hybrid oils still yellow????


I've been told they do, just not nearly as much.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

I've been told by BM guys it does yellow, but "less." Ugh.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

bikerboy said:


> Man I hate working with that stuff. It's runny and there is not much open time. (although some Floetrol helps) It does look good though.
> 
> I use either Muralo's Ultra or PPG's Speedhide. (Which has the Master Paint Institutes highest ratings, 3000 scrub cycles)


The first couple times I used this stuff I hated it also for basically the same reasons. Went back and told SW rep and I was told not to put any Floetrol in it because it already had levelers in it and that I was working it too much just put it on and leave it alone and not pull it so much. After that really seemed to make a lot of difference and I use it quite a bit now. Since I don't try to work it so much it doesn't stiffen up so quick and does level out nice.


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