# Paint Shaver Pro vs. a BILLION face nails! a query for you



## jordanski

hello everybody!

I usually post on contractortalk but I have a pretty specific quandary that I think I may find some experienced help with here...

For the last 2 (yes two) years I have been working on restoring the exterior of a giant 1903 house in seattle that has never ever before seen the hands of a competent painter/remodeler. I've done a ton of carpentry and stripped 3 sides of the house, with one giant side to go this summer. Siding is x4 cedar bevel with 5-6 layers of modern paint and a brutally solid bottom layer from 1903 that has to be linseed oil. I literally blew out my back last summer stripping two sides of this beast (in chiropractor's x3 weekly now). It doesn't have to go 100% bare wood but most of it has to go, the side I have left to do is the southern (sunny) side of the house.

I have tried everything: scraping w/ really good stripper (top layers fly off, bottom coat softens a little, either re-apply or just plow through it), limited dry scraping (forget it), and infrared (silent paint remover) which was too slow and too brutal on the body.

My plan for the last side is to invest in a paint shaver pro and finish it that way. Seems to be so much faster from videos and reviews I've seen. 

Problem is in days past some idiot face-nailed the lower part of EVERY course of siding onto EVERY stud, that's a rusty old school six penny nail every 24" on a 20' high 40' wall! 

The paint shaver rep sez the 8amp can hit face nails but it dulls the blade prematurely. Anyone who owns one of these care to chime in?

I was thinking I could bite the bullet, go out with some cow magnets and flat bars and find all the face nails and counter-sink them (two days work tops), then just plow through the wall super fast.

Any chance the shaver pro could just handle the nails, or am I dreaming? Not interested in going through 10 blade sets on one wall, or reaming the wood all sloppy from skipping...

I'd like to stress that going through this paint with pro-prep scrapers is near impossible, so this is really the option I have left.

And yes, I plan on using the dustless attachment with the hepa vac, plastic, etc. not stoopid...

Man, this thing is the cedar death star.... job is T&M but I'm soooo done scraping this freak of nature, gotta finish this up before I blow a disk or something.

any help out there?

thanks
jordan


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## nEighter

I am not sure about the paintshaver although I hear it is a beast! Are you going to take care of the rust on those nails? Like hit them with some type of sanding wheel prior to sinkin em? that rust may be a beotch later on when trying to finish the job, as in coming through the finish coat. Are you painting? I don't remember reading what you are finishing it off with. Good luck man. Sounds like an awesome project. Do you have any pics? We love pics :yes:


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## GMack

Are the nails flush, set, or protruding a bit . . . From my experience which is almost 10 years ago now, as long as the nails aren't sticking out ( i.e. the machine isn't going to get hung up on them) the paint shaver will go right over them. Even if you go through a few sets of blades per side, it will probably be worth it. I remember having the same issue: I think we had to set a few nails which were sticking out but were, for the most part, fine. 

On a four inch reveal clapboard, you should be able to get the whole board, including the bottom edge down to bare wood in two to three passes per section. Tough dirty work but the paint shaver is an animal. You then, of course, have quite a bit of palm sanding to do before priming again.


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## johnpaint

Have any of you used the Metabo? It's about half the cost but may not do as good a job.


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## premierpainter

We use the Paint Shaver a lot. We have never had to set all of the nails. If they are sticking out, then yes, you will have to set them. We did a church last summer that required shavers. We used them, followed by grinders with high speed sanding attachments. Paint shaver sells them. We bought two and then just bought the same grinder and ordered the parts from them to make our own sanders at about half the cost. We then used, Chemcromic (sp?) from Sherwin-Williams to seal in the rust. Works great.
Have fun and post some pictures of that job.


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## NEPS.US

Try a Wagner Paint Eater. Its a little more forgiving with nails and a little cheaper.


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## Last Craftsman

NEPS.US said:


> Try a Wagner Paint Eater. Its a little more forgiving with nails and a little cheaper.


What about lead dust? Wont the vac system he was talking about be safer?


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## NEPS.US

Ah ...yes....eater no good for that. My bad.


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## Last Craftsman

*Jordanski, peel away.*

Jordanski, have you looked into peel away?

Its basically sodium hydroxide paste, but it comes with 3x3 foot sheets that you apply over the paste. The paste and the paint peel off with the sheets.

This removes lead paint without making dust. 

Obviously the material is caustic, but I think with a well planned procedure, it should be easy enough to keep off your skin.

Scaffolding would be key.

From pictures I have seen, 3 foot sheets of paint come off after 12 hours of soaking.

Even if you removed 95%of the paint in giant sheets, the other 5% would suck right into your hepa vac while sanding.

By the way, if you use the infra-red heater you need to get the support beam with swing arm that holds the infra red device in place so you can be scraping while it is heating the next section.


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## jordanski

*Will Update with pics and more info*

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I'm busy working this weekend but will re-size some pics to post asap and I'll go over my experiences with each idea posted so hopefully others can learn from it. I think there should be a sticky just on all the ways to strip and scrape exteriors in different situations... I can't think of a worse task that has just buried everyone I know at least once on a project.

J


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## OverSpray

The easy way is just add in the cost of a prof. sandblasting co. using pecan shells or corn cob blasting media it takes everthing off but the wood, you may need to check with local ordinances for possible lead abbatement issues, I have used this process several time in restoration projects in the historic section of savannah ga. you can also used baking soda for blasting media


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## EricTheHandyman

If the nails are protruding, you'd want to sink them anyway before you prep/paint. I think if you do this first you shouldn't have a problem.


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## Crestwood

I've used the PaintShaver on cedar sidewall shingles - very happy with the results. Nails can be a problem but if you vary the adjustment of the cutterheads you can squeeze some more life out of them (there are 3 cutterheads with 3 sides each). Suggest you definitely use the PS sanding system - much easier to remove tool gouges and get a smooth finished face.

Have also used PeelAway - better in warmer weather rather than cold and if you don't get everything covered the first time you're faced with a re-do (X hours) or sanding (dust).

Don't have hard numbers, but my guess would be a time/material toss-up between the PS system and chemical.


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## WisePainter

I have tried that peelaway and found it to be a messy ordeal, it even freaked out the customer when they saw the results.
I prefer Dad's Marine and Industrial stripper, it removes everything and leaves wood clean with no need to wash it off once the stripper dries.
It will even remove epoxy coatings.


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## jordanski

*Update with answers to all the posts...*

to nEighter:

for rusty nails, I countersink unless already flush and every nail gets a shot of rattle can rusted metal primer, then do your putty/caulk and 24 hr oil primer.. it works and doesn't take long at all, put the rattle can in your bucket or back pocket (ps. and it makes the house loook CRAZY man! bare wood with crimson polka dots!)


to Gmack:

I will probably only sink nails beyond flush, we're talking hundreds of nails here!


re: the Wagner Paint Eater,

if you want to give yourself and everyone you know acute lead poisoning, it would be a fine product, also, against linseed oil any grinder pad will last about 10 square inches... and grinding paint without a dust free OSHA rated hepa vacuum attachment(not a shop vac with hepa filter, that doesn't cut it) is super illegal and toxic and if the state catches you you're done for... homeowners in seattle are pretty savvy and you can almost guarantee someone will make a call if you're visible...


re: Peel Away... sounds like a good product, I use EZway stripper, which is the best stripper in the world for everything except linseed oil, which you just have to plow through with a 2nd hard HARD pass of the scraper, which will kill you and your back in about 3 hours... the other 6 layers of modern paint are literally falling off the house by the time I get to it...EZway is the ****, but if you're not in western washington you can't get it, I drive an hour on the freeway for mine, for real....

to Overspray:

I'm skeptical about sand-blasting (or similar medium) cedar, which is pretty soft, sounds like it would work nice for brick... and yeah, that's super illegal for older paint here... I appreciate your two cents tho... ps. that sounds like a huge mess and a big load to hazmat, that must have been a crazy big project!

to Crestwood: 

I was thinking of getting the makita sander that Paint shaver makes an attachment for, I don't like the idea of mail ordering proprietary sandpaper that costs twice as much... have you tried that?

to Wisepainter:

I googled "Dad's Marine & Industrial Stripper" and this is what I got:

by David Bleiler, TLA Video (Firm) - 2004 - Reference - 816 pages
After he befriends a clairvoyant transsexual _stripper_ named Heaven, his life takes *...* thus instigating an oath of vengeance from the slain lad's loony _dad_. *...*







books.google.com/books?isbn=0312316909*...
*
_must be a regional thing! :lol::laughing::lol::laughing:



_


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## saul

Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...


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## RCP

saul said:


> Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...


Is this highfibre reincarnated?


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## nEighter

jordanski said:


> to Wisepainter:
> 
> I googled "Dad's Marine & Industrial Stripper" and this is what I got:
> 
> by David Bleiler, TLA Video (Firm) - 2004 - Reference - 816 pages
> After he befriends a clairvoyant transsexual _stripper_ named Heaven, his life takes *...* thus instigating an oath of vengeance from the slain lad's loony _dad_. *...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> books.google.com/books?isbn=0312316909*...
> *
> _must be a regional thing! :lol::laughing::lol::laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> _



AWE MAN now you have gone and gave his secret away!!







:whistling2:


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## premierpainter

saul said:


> Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...


And people wonder why I am so fed up with other painters like this.
How in the world??????


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## WisePainter

nEighter said:


> AWE MAN now you have gone and gave his secret away!!


Now _everyone_ is going to want to do it...
Nothing is sacred anymore.


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## Wolfgang

Wise: Good God Man! What is happening to you?!? Just when we thought we had you calmed down, you've turned confrontational again. And now this thing with transsexual strippers??? You know there are medications available for some of this dont you?:thumbsup:


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## jordanski

*tranny strippers with lead poisoning*

to clarify, I do not know wisepainter nor have i ever chatted with him... so I'm mean no disrespect... just thought it was pretty funny that was a top hit in my google search, couldn't find your product online tho....

and to the poster Saul:

dude, you are mistaken if you think a $200 vacuum is an OSHA rated HEPA vacuum that will protect you from fine lead particles... just the replacement FILTER on the vacuum unit you should be using costs almost $200 (and that's the spendiest filter on a triple filtration vacuum, they have 3 filters!) Lead poisoning is no joke and you will track that **** home to your family, friends, your vehicle, etc... children are particularly vulnerable to lead, do your research!!!

you need one of these:
Amazon.com: Fein 9-55-13 Turbo II 9-1/2-Gallon 1-1/3-Horsepower Wet/Dry Vacuum with Auto-Start: Home Improvement
filters to 5 microns
or even better:
http://www.dustlesstechnologies.com/iteminfo.php?II=8&cat=5
filters to 3 microns

read read read:
http://www.epa.gov/lead/

the money is useless if you don't have your health... I have a buddy who strips old houses and he has 2 washers and 2 dryers to protect his little girl, 

TIPS-
also you and your buddies should use your HEPA unit to vacuum each other (shirt pants hair etc.) as part of your daily clean-up... 

change your clothes on the jobsite at the end of each day and bag them in plastic, 

don't wash your regular clothes with your work clothes, 

wash your work clothes on heavy clean cycle with plenty of soap (I airdry mine to keep out of the dryer)

change your shoes before you drive home... bag them in plastic 

vacuum your work vehicle with your hepa vac regularly

use respirators with P100 rated filters!!!!!!!! N95 does not cut it!!! you want to filter more than 95% of lead and other toxins

wash up to your elbows thoroughly with lots of soap before smoking or eating on the jobsite

use plastic ground cover, wrap trees and bushes in plastic, and vacuum the **** out of everything if you are stripping paint with hand scrapers

wear different clothes every day...

also you can purge lead from your body with cilantro extract, fiber, anti-oxidants, garlic or green tea, and that's good info, I've talked to an MD about it...


here's an article on everyday lead detoxing, I bet a lot of guys on here could use a little:

Lead detox or detoxification is important in the event of lead poisoning or lead toxicity, which could result from exposure to lead at a workplace or factory etc, which deals with lead products and manufacturing or processing lead for industrial purposes. 
Some of the common signs and symptoms of lead poisoning include acute stomach ache, convulsions, increase in blood pressure, kidney-related problems, malaise, restlessness and insomnia. More severe signs and symptoms include hallucinations, vertigo and arthritis. 
Long-term exposure to lead could cause birth defects in children, autism, dyslexia, weak muscles, and paralysis. Therefore, children handling paints, pencils, and other stationary products containing lead should be stopped from chewing on them, especially because it could prove to be extremely harmful to their health. 


*Lead Detox Agents* 
Natural mechanisms and techniques that one could employ in the lead detoxification process include antioxidation, herbs, and dietary fiber. 


*Anti-oxidation* 
Some very common sources of antioxidants are vitamins A, C, and E. Besides vitamins, antioxidants are present in various herbs like aloe vera, garlic, ginger, green tea, and cilantro. Certain essential amino acids, glycine and selenium and zinc are also rich sources of anti-oxidants. 
The anti-oxidants present in these vitamins, minerals, and herbs, help destroy disease-causing free radicals and also eliminate lead from the human body. 
The human body cannot produce these antioxidants or vitamins that contain these antioxidants, hence they have to be consumed or supplemented. Vitamin C, for example, is found in citrus fruits like oranges and by including fresh orange juice or lemon juice into the diet one can ensure one has a good supply of antioxidants that helps strengthen the immune system, fight diseases, and eliminate lead toxins from the human body. 


*Herbs* 
Cilantro, garlic, and green tea are great lead detoxification agents that can ensure flushing out of lead toxins from the human body. 
Cilantro has the ability to engulf heavy metal toxins from the body and also eliminate the same. Organically cultivated cilantro can be used in salads, soups, and just chopped into very fine pieces mixed with yoghurt and eaten by adding a little salt and freshly ground pepper. 
Similarly, garlic too can be included in the diet. One can stir fry two or three cloves of garlic in olive oil after mashing them a bit. Fried garlic can then be mixed with other boiled vegetables and eaten with brown bread. For maximum potency, fresh raw garlic is the best. 
Green tea is available in the market and one can follow instructions to prepare it easily. This beverage can be consumed two to three times every day. 


*Dietary Fiber – Silibinin* 
Silibinin is found in silymarin which is a plant extract that is mainly found in an herb called milk thistle. Silymarin along with silibinin are found to be extremely effective in decreasing liver destruction and disease caused to heavy metal toxicity. 
Both these chemical constituents not only help in flushing out lead toxins but also help in the liver regeneration process. This is possible because these chemicals can accelerate the process of cell regeneration in the liver. Studies have indicated that silibinin has the ability to prevent toxicity levels from increasing at the kidneys, caused due to chemotherapeutic drugs and other toxic substances. Milk thistle supplements or tonics can be consumed after consulting a natural health care practitioner or herbalist. 


Lead can be extremely dangerous if one is subject to long-term lead poisoning. Hence, one should check the environment, water, and food for the presence of lead and if there is any suspicion of lead poisoning, it is best to undergo a test for lead toxicity levels. If poisoning is indeed found, a lead detox program would be a good idea. 

best of luck
J

PS. you can also use green clay internally to lead detox (that **** your girl puts on her face!) mix 1 tsp in a cup of water and drink it! yeah it's gross but they line hazmat sites and landfills with clay for a reason, it bonds to the toxins


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## jordanski

*my two cents*



saul said:


> Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...


hi Saul,
checked out your gallery, looks like you do pretty clean work...

I will say this: if you are working a lot on old houses from 1900 etc. that it may be bad for business to have a bunch of pictures on your website of guys using palm sanders (with no vacuum attachment) and not wearing respirators... no disrespect intended, I'm just sayin'.....

power sanding paint on house built in 1900 = lots of lead dust :no:

jordan


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## WisePainter

Wolfgang said:


> Wise: Good God Man! What is happening to you?!? Just when we thought we had you calmed down, you've turned confrontational again. And now this thing with transsexual strippers??? You know there are medications available for some of this dont you?:thumbsup:


My mind is not safe alone after dark...
I have yet to find a way to mention that product to other contractors without saying "*Dad's stripper*", I am always getting funny looks.
Why couldn't they have named it "*Product* *233*" or something neat like that?

The product is very aggressive about lifting any type of coating, within seconds your substrate will wrinkle no matter what the material is. I have tried the Savogran stripper that is sold everywhere and it just didn't have the same bite, and I waited far longer for results to appear.
So I recommend removing the current lead(?) substrate with the Dad's chemical peeling agent.


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## saul

Hi Jordanski's:
Well thanks for the tips, when post $200.00 for the vacuum, I don't explain the price for the respirators and filters, the lead houses we make we don't have the pictures in the web site, When we do this kind of works, we take autorization from OSHA inspectors, and the city regulations, because the neiborghs make compleints, we knows the big risk the lead make for you healt, and we have all recomendation from the people with experience, Thanks for your tips we have in mind the dietary herbs, thanks...
http://magictouchcontracting.com


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## jmedgar

We have been using paint shaver pro for about two years - first on a grarage to test the system out. The results are very satisfactory if mfgr's instructions are followed. There are three steps: 1 - set the nails, 2 - shave, 3 - sand to remove shaving marks. The shaver will not get into corners, which have to be hand scraped. We usually use a heat gun to soften the paint first, especially on 100+ year old houses.

It takes about 3 minutes to set, shave and sand 1 square foot. I don't know of any system that equals the result paint shaver pro provides and takes less time.

Be careful of the new EPA lead rules. For a test of the relative performance of paint shaver v. other methods conducted by Purdue University, see http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/hunt/paintstripping.pdf

Regards

J. M. Edgar
StarCraft Custom Builders.


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## PatsPainting

Just some advice, don't under estimate the time it takes to set the nails. Also don't under estimate the amount of time it takes to finish prepping the wood after you have used the paint shaver. To me this is just as long if not longer then the actual paint shaver step. All those nail holes you will now have to fill, what are you going to use to fill them. The areas that you fooked up when using the shaver. It's a great tool, can do wonders, but it still takes a bit of time to do it right.

Pat


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## jeremykeel1

*neps.us dont know, but its ok*

The paint eater will cost 3 times as much on a large victoian compared to a one time buy of $800.00 for a brand new paint shaver pro 8amp.


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## TJ Paint

jordanski said:


> to clarify, I do not know wisepainter nor have i ever chatted with him... so I'm mean no disrespect... just thought it was pretty funny that was a top hit in my google search, couldn't find your product online tho....
> 
> and to the poster Saul:
> 
> dude, you are mistaken if you think a $200 vacuum is an OSHA rated HEPA vacuum that will protect you from fine lead particles... just the replacement FILTER on the vacuum unit you should be using costs almost $200 (and that's the spendiest filter on a triple filtration vacuum, they have 3 filters!) Lead poisoning is no joke and you will track that **** home to your family, friends, your vehicle, etc... children are particularly vulnerable to lead, do your research!!!
> 
> you need one of these:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223XD
> filters to 5 microns
> or even better:
> http://www.dustlesstechnologies.com/iteminfo.php?II=8&cat=5
> filters to 3 microns
> 
> read read read:
> http://www.epa.gov/lead/
> 
> the money is useless if you don't have your health... I have a buddy who strips old houses and he has 2 washers and 2 dryers to protect his little girl,
> 
> TIPS-
> also you and your buddies should use your HEPA unit to vacuum each other (shirt pants hair etc.) as part of your daily clean-up...
> 
> change your clothes on the jobsite at the end of each day and bag them in plastic,
> 
> don't wash your regular clothes with your work clothes,
> 
> wash your work clothes on heavy clean cycle with plenty of soap (I airdry mine to keep out of the dryer)
> 
> change your shoes before you drive home... bag them in plastic
> 
> vacuum your work vehicle with your hepa vac regularly
> 
> use respirators with P100 rated filters!!!!!!!! N95 does not cut it!!! you want to filter more than 95% of lead and other toxins
> 
> wash up to your elbows thoroughly with lots of soap before smoking or eating on the jobsite
> 
> use plastic ground cover, wrap trees and bushes in plastic, and vacuum the **** out of everything if you are stripping paint with hand scrapers
> 
> wear different clothes every day...
> 
> also you can purge lead from your body with cilantro extract, fiber, anti-oxidants, garlic or green tea, and that's good info, I've talked to an MD about it...
> 
> 
> here's an article on everyday lead detoxing, I bet a lot of guys on here could use a little:
> 
> Lead detox or detoxification is important in the event of lead poisoning or lead toxicity, which could result from exposure to lead at a workplace or factory etc, which deals with lead products and manufacturing or processing lead for industrial purposes.
> Some of the common signs and symptoms of lead poisoning include acute stomach ache, convulsions, increase in blood pressure, kidney-related problems, malaise, restlessness and insomnia. More severe signs and symptoms include hallucinations, vertigo and arthritis.
> Long-term exposure to lead could cause birth defects in children, autism, dyslexia, weak muscles, and paralysis. Therefore, children handling paints, pencils, and other stationary products containing lead should be stopped from chewing on them, especially because it could prove to be extremely harmful to their health.
> 
> 
> *Lead Detox Agents*
> Natural mechanisms and techniques that one could employ in the lead detoxification process include antioxidation, herbs, and dietary fiber.
> 
> 
> *Anti-oxidation*
> Some very common sources of antioxidants are vitamins A, C, and E. Besides vitamins, antioxidants are present in various herbs like aloe vera, garlic, ginger, green tea, and cilantro. Certain essential amino acids, glycine and selenium and zinc are also rich sources of anti-oxidants.
> The anti-oxidants present in these vitamins, minerals, and herbs, help destroy disease-causing free radicals and also eliminate lead from the human body.
> The human body cannot produce these antioxidants or vitamins that contain these antioxidants, hence they have to be consumed or supplemented. Vitamin C, for example, is found in citrus fruits like oranges and by including fresh orange juice or lemon juice into the diet one can ensure one has a good supply of antioxidants that helps strengthen the immune system, fight diseases, and eliminate lead toxins from the human body.
> 
> 
> *Herbs*
> Cilantro, garlic, and green tea are great lead detoxification agents that can ensure flushing out of lead toxins from the human body.
> Cilantro has the ability to engulf heavy metal toxins from the body and also eliminate the same. Organically cultivated cilantro can be used in salads, soups, and just chopped into very fine pieces mixed with yoghurt and eaten by adding a little salt and freshly ground pepper.
> Similarly, garlic too can be included in the diet. One can stir fry two or three cloves of garlic in olive oil after mashing them a bit. Fried garlic can then be mixed with other boiled vegetables and eaten with brown bread. For maximum potency, fresh raw garlic is the best.
> Green tea is available in the market and one can follow instructions to prepare it easily. This beverage can be consumed two to three times every day.
> 
> 
> *Dietary Fiber – Silibinin*
> Silibinin is found in silymarin which is a plant extract that is mainly found in an herb called milk thistle. Silymarin along with silibinin are found to be extremely effective in decreasing liver destruction and disease caused to heavy metal toxicity.
> Both these chemical constituents not only help in flushing out lead toxins but also help in the liver regeneration process. This is possible because these chemicals can accelerate the process of cell regeneration in the liver. Studies have indicated that silibinin has the ability to prevent toxicity levels from increasing at the kidneys, caused due to chemotherapeutic drugs and other toxic substances. Milk thistle supplements or tonics can be consumed after consulting a natural health care practitioner or herbalist.
> 
> 
> Lead can be extremely dangerous if one is subject to long-term lead poisoning. Hence, one should check the environment, water, and food for the presence of lead and if there is any suspicion of lead poisoning, it is best to undergo a test for lead toxicity levels. If poisoning is indeed found, a lead detox program would be a good idea.
> 
> best of luck
> J
> 
> PS. you can also use green clay internally to lead detox (that **** your girl puts on her face!) mix 1 tsp in a cup of water and drink it! yeah it's gross but they line hazmat sites and landfills with clay for a reason, it bonds to the toxins


And somehow the EPA figured that the added expense for rrp would be around what, $200? lol. heres the true story for rrp expenses. Thanks for the great info on this type of work, and also for detoxing. I hope the rest of the project turns out better than before. 

Question, what types of finishes are you going to use or using? Primer, paint, etc. Just curious what system. And another one is, when you reflect on your project, do you think it would have been more reasonable to just have replaced all the siding instead? I'm interested in your opinion, as the one who has put his blood, sweat, and tears into this behemoth project.


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## TJ Paint

I just noticed when this thread was started.


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## RCP

TJ Paint said:


> And somehow the EPA figured that the added expense for rrp would be around what, $200? lol. heres the true story for rrp expenses.


That "added expense" was assuming everyone was already following OHSA and LHSR like Jordanski. You are right, the expenses are much higher if you have to buy the vac and other stuff.



TJ Paint said:


> I just noticed when this thread was started.


Some good info, some topics are worth a bump, and Jordanski is still an active member, so there is a good chance you may get a response.


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## Metro M & L

I'm surprised no one suggested just removing and replacing the siding. 200 hours setting, stripping, sanding, cleaning, puttying. Up and down ladders or scaffolding. 

Maybe what 2k for shingles and 100 hours. Brand new siding to boot.


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## ODONOVJ

*curious*

So how did it go for you. I'm also wondering ,since you thought that the guy was an idiot for nailing the clap boards down to the studs. What other approaches does one have to secure a bowing board down other than caulking the crap out of the gap. What would you suggest. I'm about to embark on a project which will has a ton of boards which are not tight down? I'd appreciate any input on it. Thanks
BTW what were you saying about linseed oil, was it that you were intending to use it or it had been used prior to painting way back in the early 1900s. Can you use linseed oil prior to priming and then painting. Or if using linseed oil do you have to prime at all if intending to have 2 finish coats . and if the linseed oil is in the picture can you use any type of paint, acrylic/latex etc or are there limitations. 
Anyway interesting topic..


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## Brian C

Why re-hash this old thread ?


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## ODONOVJ

re hash? sounds like you think it's something bad . what do you mean? Just asking a question. If you have an answer I'd love to hear it, otherwise.....


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## Brian C

What do you what to know exactly ?

How the paint shaver works or re-nailing timber siding ? 

Ar you licensed for lead paint removal ?

Are you a professional painting contractor ?


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