# Pine table restoration - finishing question



## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

Hey everyone. Got a few days off between jobs and my dear wife decides it's time to restore the ol' pine kitchen table. She wants it painted dark brown. Did I say a few days off? :no:

Anyway, we belt sanded the gouges out of the wood and progressively sanded our way up to a 150 finish - looks pretty good for an old table. We applied a coat of BM Alkyd Fresh Start Underbody, sanded lightly with 150, wiped clean with tack and then two coats of SW Latex All Surface Enamel 0 - nice paint I must say, levels off really nicely and repaint in an hour - looks great!

My question is; how to give this finish some durability? I'm not talking bullet proof, just something able to handle the standard wear and tear and spills and slops that our three boys and their friends dish out that don't get wiped up right away.

Someone suggested a couple coats of waterbased polyurethane satin clear coat. Anyone got any tried, tested, and true solutions for us?

Thanks,


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

Minwax Polycrylic (satin finish)
http://minwax.com/products/interior_clear_protective_finishes/polycrylic_protective_finish.html

Or 

Benjamin Moore Stays Clear Acrylic Poly (Low luster)
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/bmpswe...ges/paint/prd_423&_pageLabel=fc_productsspecs

The BM Stays clear has more abrasion resistance, I would go with that.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

or upgrade to epoxy


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> or upgrade to epoxy


Can you recommend one please? I haven't worked with clear epoxy before and I'm a little apprehensive about experimenting with it on this project. What about pot life and avoiding bubbles?

Thanks,


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

TDTD said:


> Can you recommend one please? I haven't worked with clear epoxy before and I'm a little apprehensive about experimenting with it on this project. What about pot life and avoiding bubbles?
> 
> Thanks,


Pot life should not be a problem just for the amount needed to paint out a table or tabletop. Bubbles can be made to rise to the top with gentle heat. Clear epoxy or polyester resins tend to run until the catalytic action starts to occur. This can lead to 
runoffs on the edges. Heat tends to reduce viscosity and the runs can sneak up on you. Once set they are not real easy to sand out plus you have to apply more resin to get it back to where your wife is happy. 

There are some waterbourne epoxies that might work but the hot solvent types IMO should be avoided on some projects just because of the hassle factor and since the solvents are hot (MEK) they can degrade your color coat.

BM StaysClear would be my personal choice, being easy to apply, easy to find and is a coating suitable for floors. Drys quick and is reasonably kid proof. Two coats on the edges and legs and 3-4 coats on the top should be fine. (IMO)


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

Retired said:


> Pot life should not be a problem just for the amount needed to paint out a table or tabletop. Bubbles can be made to rise to the top with gentle heat. Clear epoxy or polyester resins tend to run until the catalytic action starts to occur. This can lead to
> runoffs on the edges. Heat tends to reduce viscosity and the runs can sneak up on you. Once set they are not real easy to sand out plus you have to apply more resin to get it back to where your wife is happy.
> 
> There are some waterbourne epoxies that might work but the hot solvent types IMO should be avoided on some projects just because of the hassle factor and since the solvents are hot (MEK) they can degrade your color coat.
> ...


Many thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts Retired - much appreciated. You've got me sold on "Stays Clear". I'll try your tips regarding epoxy sometime on a surface that doesn't matter too much.

Cheers,


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Retired said:


> Pot life should not be a problem just for the amount needed to paint out a table or tabletop. Bubbles can be made to rise to the top with gentle heat. Clear epoxy or polyester resins tend to run until the catalytic action starts to occur. This can lead to
> runoffs on the edges. Heat tends to reduce viscosity and the runs can sneak up on you. Once set they are not real easy to sand out plus you have to apply more resin to get it back to where your wife is happy.
> 
> There are some waterbourne epoxies that might work but the hot solvent types IMO should be avoided on some projects just because of the hassle factor and since the solvents are hot (MEK) they can degrade your color coat.
> ...


I don't know this product in particular and maybe I'm stating the obvious when I say this, but acrylics don't 'yellow' or age like oil. Maybe this is a plus or minus to you. I live in an older home (1927) and 60% of my furniture is antique so I like the look of aging furniture so I typically opt for oil based stuff.

Again, I don't know this product, but 'typically' its a bit more tricky getting an acrylic to 'sit down' opposed to an oil due to the quicker dry time. That smooth glossy look is best gained with oil. 

Last, careful when you sand an acrylic between coats. It can heat, melt and ball on you quite easily.

The pros to acrylic are obvious and despite what I just said I usually look for excuses to use them. 

If Retired knows or someone else I would like to hear how this product sits down (smooths out) comparable to an oil?


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I don't know this product in particular and maybe I'm stating the obvious when I say this, but acrylics don't 'yellow' or age like oil. Maybe this is a plus or minus to you. I live in an older home (1927) and 60% of my furniture is antique so I like the look of aging furniture so I typically opt for oil based stuff.
> 
> Again, I don't know this product, but 'typically' its a bit more tricky getting an acrylic to 'sit down' opposed to an oil due to the quicker dry time. That smooth glossy look is best gained with oil.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your input P&H.

I've used both solvent and water based polyurethanes as well as lacquers extensively and I've found that the solvent based urethanes and lacquers level better than water. Water is an easier cleanup and I find that a gentle rub down with 0000 steel wool between coats produces better results than sandpaper. A final dressing with felt and rotten stone will take any fine spider webs, etc out too.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I don't know this product in particular and maybe I'm stating the obvious when I say this, but acrylics don't 'yellow' or age like oil. Maybe this is a plus or minus to you. I live in an older home (1927) and 60% of my furniture is antique so I like the look of aging furniture so I typically opt for oil based stuff.
> 
> >>>For overall wear and durability, the alkyds IMO are superior. Coming from a long spell painting in an marine environment, I would use the most efficient product that suited the job. BM StaysClear is not an exterior rated coating as just one example. I have a coffee table I brushed out with a marine grade high gloss alkyd poly that I did about 20 years ago. I can't remember even where I got the stuff. 3-4 coats as best I recall. This table gets the doo-doo kicked out of it and is holding up fine.
> 
> ...


Basic IMO do the prep right, make sure the materials are compatible and when in doubt practice on something othrer than a customers property. They really don't like that much and callbacks can be expensive and in some cases can put a guy in chapter 11 right skippy. 

I don't give a ratsass what the paint schleppers say from behind thier counters and cash registers. It's the guy in the field doing the real work who really counts in my book.

Small rant? Yep.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

.....


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

Stays Clear is a great product. 
Spray it via HVLP if you can. It looks stellar when sprayed this way. If you don't want to spray, just use a really short nap sleeve and roll it.

Also, avoid using steel wool with acyrlic polyurethane, use 220 grit paper. 
Pieces of steel wool have the potential of creating rust with the 'water' based poly.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Ranger72 said:


> Stays Clear is a great product.
> Spray it via HVLP if you can. It looks stellar when sprayed this way. If you don't want to spray, just use a really short nap sleeve and roll it.
> 
> Also, avoid using steel wool with acyrlic polyurethane, use 220 grit paper.
> Pieces of steel wool have the potential of creating rust with the 'water' based poly.


Spot on about the steel wool. Most off the shelf steel wool is oiled too. Not a good mix.. Those left behind shards will rust and make a finish look like little worms in the paint. Not the best thing for a kitchen tabletop. The little guys love it but the final say is not with them..as we should all recognize.


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

Well, the table is done & it turned out great! Had friends over for dinner the other night and received nothing but compliments. Now all I have to do is the six chairs.

Thanks to all who contributed.

Cheers,


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

TDTD said:


> Well, the table is done & it turned out great! Had friends over for dinner the other night and received nothing but compliments. Now all I have to do is the six chairs.
> 
> Thanks to all who contributed.
> 
> Cheers,


lol what did you use? after all this, you don't even say what you used?


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> lol what did you use? after all this, you don't even say what you used?


Just checking to see if you're awake TJ:jester:

Thanks for pointing that out--been a long day and too much of those volatiles I guess:whistling2:.

I used "Stays Clear".


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Pictures!!


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Yes. Pictures!


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

I vote HVLP for the chairs. Much easier. haha

Now on with the pics. :thumbsup:


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## TDTD (Jun 10, 2010)

Ranger72 said:


> I vote HVLP for the chairs. Much easier. haha
> 
> Now on with the pics. :thumbsup:


HVLP is the plan for the chairs!

I promise to post pics upon completion of the chairs which might be awhile, (busy again). My dear wife says she'll add her little touch with a vase full of her award winning roses on the table too!:thumbup:

Cheers,


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