# PPG Breakthrough Share Experiences



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

There is a lot of mention here and now the product has been in most of your hands, I would like to hear your feedback.

I like what I am hearing, 2-3 coats in one day back to service the next, no blocking, fast dry, etc. This would really help us in kitchen repaints such as Custom Brush just demo'd with his McIver set-up.

Is it a contender against Cabinet Coat/ Aura/ Advance/ SW's Hybrid, and proven itself as a Kitchen Cabinet re-paint product? Will it stand up in a humid bathroom on trim, doors etc. Will it burnish easily?

Touch up? 

I have only brushed 4 really crappy exterior doors with it in Satin. I brushed because that is what the last 10 painters did! It was very thin, and flowed nice and covered in 2 coats no problem in a major colour change. I was worried about dry brushing with the fast set up time but I had enough time to work the product, perhaps more open time than Aura. I will say the Satin was a dull eggshell IMO.

Thanks,


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Good post. I too would like to hear more from those who've used it. 

How does it brush out and what do the sheens come out looking like? I have a job coming up with six doors in a busy Edward Jones office and spraying the casings and trim will be out of the question. 

I typically like satin as a trim sheen now days but it does depend on the product. Sounds like Breakthrough's semi might be more like other products' satin.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

researchhound said:


> Good post. I too would like to hear more from those who've used it.
> 
> How does it brush out and what do the sheens come out looking like? I have a job coming up with six doors in a busy Edward Jones office and spraying the casings and trim will be out of the question.
> 
> I typically like satin as a trim sheen now days but it does depend on the product. Sounds like Breakthrough's semi might be more like other products' satin.


No semi gloss. Unless you make your own by boxing satin and gloss, as Custom mentioned doing. 

I've only used it twice. Sprayed really nice with airless and 4-10 on doors. Didn't thin enough with my hvlp and got some orange peel. Brushed nice on the door edges we couldn't spray. 

In the black satin, which we shot with airless, the sprayed color was different than the brushed color, I think it's called shearing. We ended up shooting extra product through the gun to use as touchup.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> No semi gloss. Unless you make your own by boxing satin and gloss, as Custom mentioned doing.
> 
> I've only used it twice. Sprayed really nice with airless and 4-10 on doors. Didn't thin enough with my hvlp and got some orange peel. Brushed nice on the door edges we couldn't spray.
> 
> In the black satin, which we shot with airless, the sprayed color was different than the brushed color, I think it's called shearing. We ended up shooting extra product through the gun to use as touchup.


In this day and age that seems odd. If a painter can achieve a semi-gloss sheen by doing that why doesn't the company just offer one?

What did you think of their satin? Was it a good look for doors and trim?


----------



## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I have used alot of breakthrough in the past .Did some metal bldgs.Probably 200gallons,as well as doors trim etc.It is thin and will take off on you.Spray it fast and light and further away than you would for regular spraying for your first coat. For brush and roll you need their reducer,not water.Without the reducer it can roll like cotton candy and be stringy.I have used it on resiliant gym floors. Bonds well dries fast covers well,red over red two coats in 30 minutes.I know of cabinet makers that liked it as well as sign painters.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Never used it.


----------



## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

kmp said:


> I have used alot of breakthrough in the past .Did some metal bldgs.Probably 200gallons,as well as doors trim etc.It is thin and will take off on you.Spray it fast and light and further away than you would for regular spraying for your first coat. For brush and roll you need their reducer,not water.Without the reducer it can roll like cotton candy and be stringy.I have used it on resiliant gym floors. Bonds well dries fast covers well,red over red two coats in 30 minutes.I know of cabinet makers that liked it as well as sign painters.


 "major breakthrough".


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

I have used a lot of this product. Best advice is to strain, strain, and strain. Always a lot of crap in the can. Sprays great with an airless with a ff tip. When using an HVLP thin it a little more than you would think is too much so it will have time to layout since the air speeds the dying and it will usually take three coats. Tip tends to get build up pretty frequently when using HVLP so keep a toothbrush handy to brush the tip clean. My opinion on brush and roll is to avoid it if you can on large areas because the fast dry time makes it difficult to get smooth even appearance. On small work it is great. You can use this on bare wood with one topcoat and it will bond and finish very well. I prefer to spray this stuff whenever possible. The blocking is what I like most about Breakthrough. Doors can be stacked on top of each other a couple hours after spraying without sticking. If needing to get the job done quickly Breakthrough is a great option that can make you money because of how fast you can turnover a project. I have sprayed cabinet doors 2 coats and re-hung them in an hour.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

What about the finish durability and hardness?


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> What about the finish durability and hardness?


As far as long term durability can't comment since I have only been using it for a couple years. It does seem to have a nice hard finish that doesn't scratch or scuff very easily. On the flip side of that I have never seen it chip off anything so it is either very well bonded to things I have painted in the past or just soft enough not to chip.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Lambrecht said:


> When using an HVLP thin it a little more than you would think is too much so it will have time to layout since the air speeds the dying and it will usually take three coats.


Any issues with sagging when thinning it that amount?


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

The colour I used by brush looked like it was ready for the HVLP! It was very thin. I loaded the door fairly well and there were no runs or sags, the drop cloth didn't fair so well.


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

researchhound said:


> Any issues with sagging when thinning it that amount?


No problems but make the coats just heavy enough to lay out.


----------



## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

I have sprayed a handfull of cabinets & brushed a set with this stuff. Absolutely love it. Spray using a graco gun & fine finish tips. Use lower pressure. Spray thin coats on vertical. 3 thin. Use a space heater in the winter.


----------



## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

I've been brushing & rolling the Breakthrough a lot lately. Definitely you'll want to do these actions for a more enjoyable application experience.

1.) Strain your paint just before use into perfectly clean buckets/trays.

2.)Thin with a little water (don't use extenders, they aren't recommended).

3.) When rolling only, tiny air bubbles can be made & they will dry in place. I'll take a pic of the roller cover I use when rolling only. With water, it reduces the dry time & allows the air to escape & the paint to level out better. It's actually best to roll out a couple lines, then lay it off, blending into the wet edge as you progress. Never roll an entire section then attempt to lay off with your brush! 

4.) Keep your brush & tray clean (using liners or plastic film as a liner, change frequently). You'll have to clean your brush every couple hours as little dry chunky grits like to start getting on your project.

4.) Dip gently & not too deep! Dab your brush low toward the paint in your bucket. This keeps paint from drying up the side of your bucket.


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I have asked our PPG supplier for a sample quart of Breakthrough. I will HVLP 3 cabinet doors for some samples and abuse. I have a bunch of free doors to play with.

1. BM Advance
2. Insulex Cabinet Coat
3. PPG Breakthough


----------



## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I have asked our PPG supplier for a sample quart of Breakthrough. I will HVLP 3 cabinet doors for some samples and abuse. I have a bunch of free doors to play with.
> 
> 1. BM Advance
> 2. Insulex Cabinet Coat
> 3. PPG Breakthough



i think turbine hvlp air will be too hot for the breakthrough.it dries too quick.


----------



## IrwinPride (Aug 28, 2012)

Started this year using Breakthrough and love it. 

I have used it on metal casings in factories, concrete floors, and last week we shot 22 doors black with a 310 FF tip. 2 light passes did the trick for the doors, dried to the touch in 15 minutes. On concrete floors used a gloss grey and that covered in 1.

Reminds me of an enamel but without the odor.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Xmark said:


> i think turbine hvlp air will be too hot for the breakthrough.it dries too quick.


I think if the surrounding room air is too warm then you are correct. I had that happen on the final coat spraying out a bank of large doors when I cranked the room heat. The first two coats went better as the temp was just avg warm, not hot. I think thinning the product between 5-10% with water and shooting in "normal" conditions should be fine. 

Keep us posted Roominaday on your tests. I keep asking my GC to give me their demo cabinet doors, maybe someday they'll remember so I can shoot out some more samples. I have one of cabinet coat, and one of advance satin, just need to get on in breakthrough for my own fun. Clients love sample cabinet doors when you're standing in their kitchen bidding the job. Although I made the mistake of bringing a painted maple door to a bid where they had oak cabinets. I since obtained a couple oak doors to paint. 

Tip of the day, you may be able to get your friendly neighborhood Home Depot (yes I know that may sound like an oxymoron, but in this case it's not) to order you a couple free sample cabinet doors. Mine did, I was trying to find a way to get some and the guy at their cabinet dept said he could order one or two samples of doors they didn't currently have in stock. Several weeks later they showed up at my house. Looks like I may finally have time soon to do something with them.


----------



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Most places where they sell kitchens have damaged doors and screw up's. I had an oak sample and I don't know where it went to.


----------



## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> 3.) When rolling only, tiny air bubbles can be made & they will dry in place. I'll take a pic of the roller cover I use when rolling only.


Here is that pic of the best roller covers I've found for rolling PPG Breakthrough... It both applies the paint & lays it off. This I use when leaving a roll only finish. Otherwise I use a 4" micro-fiber mini-roller, then lay off with the Corona Ryan!


----------



## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> Here is that pic of the best roller covers I've found for rolling PPG Breakthrough... It both applies the paint & lays it off. This I use when leaving a roll only finish. Otherwise I use a 4" micro-fiber mini-roller, then lay off with the Corona Ryan!


I change my mind on these rollers. Micro-fiber mini-rollers roll it best, but now we only brush Breakthrough after adding a little water.


----------



## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

I haven't been able to find any Breakthrough yet, but it sounds very similar to SW Kem Aqua. I suspect the KA is slightly harder, but the dry times, block resistance, and burnish resistance sound similar. I strongly recommend KA for cabinets. Have any if you tried both and can compare them? Sounds like breakthrough is more flexible...no way KA would not crack on a resilient gym floor.


----------



## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Im considering this product for exterior front doors. I would be using an airless and a FF tip. Looking for durability and color retention.


----------



## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> Here is that pic of the best roller covers I've found for rolling PPG Breakthrough... It both applies the paint & lays it off. This I use when leaving a roll only finish. Otherwise I use a 4" micro-fiber mini-roller, then lay off with the Corona Ryan!


Wooster, Corona, PPG........ Miller Paint Co :thumbsup:


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Woodland said:


> Wooster, Corona, PPG........ Miller Paint Co :thumbsup:


I primed both sides with Advance primer and shot the front sides with BM Advance . I then shot the backsides with PPG breakthrough Satin which is more like a eggshell as said before on here. The Advance looks great when dry beautiful finish. Although I would not hesitate to use breakthrough again loved the quick dry time no blocking .

All primers and pants were shot with a PS2 Graco.


----------



## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

I had to paint some wood veneer doors and frames that had been stained previously. I originally was going to prime with stix, but saw breakthrough at my dealer and remember reading all the posts here. Lucky for me they had a factory premixed black which is what I needed. Painted two coats and it covered amazingly, dried fast and got the job done.
Will definitely use again!


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Interesting experiment Nick!
I just shot my cabs with breakthrough, and then brought home a few doors from a job and shot in advance. I found the advance a little easier to dial in. I also found the advance a million times easier to brush on the areas of the frames that needed brushing. If I was going to spray everything on a cabinet job I wouldn't hesitate to use breakthrough, but when I'm brushing the frames and spraying the doors I will lean towards advance.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Interesting experiment Nick!
> I just shot my cabs with breakthrough, and then brought home a few doors from a job and shot in advance. I found the advance a little easier to dial in. I also found the advance a million times easier to brush on the areas of the frames that needed brushing. If I was going to spray everything on a cabinet job I wouldn't hesitate to use breakthrough, but when I'm brushing the frames and spraying the doors I will lean towards advance.


I agree and the Advance finish when dry is a thing of beauty for sure. The Satin cures almost and I mean almost like a oil. I do like the breakthrough though has its upsides for sure gonna try it on some other substrates ASAP.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

thinkpainting/nick said:


> I agree and the Advance finish when dry is a thing of beauty for sure. The Satin cures almost and I mean almost like a oil. I do like the breakthrough though has its upsides for sure gonna try it on some other substrates ASAP.[/


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Interesting experiment Nick!
> I just shot my cabs with breakthrough, and then brought home a few doors from a job and shot in advance. I found the advance a little easier to dial in. I also found the advance a million times easier to brush on the areas of the frames that needed brushing. If I was going to spray everything on a cabinet job I wouldn't hesitate to use breakthrough, but when I'm brushing the frames and spraying the doors I will lean towards advance.


Got another cabinet job coming up, this one the cabs are painted already but need serious prep. I'm gonna try this https://www.c2paint.com/our-products/trim.php again .
I agree Damon the advance is much better to brush but I really liked spraying the breakthrough. Ill post pics when done.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I tested a quart of that stuff. It sprayed awesome, looked really nice. I did a sample brushing out a back of a cabinet door, took it straight out of the can, didn't brush very well. Of course it might be better if you add extender or something to it. They have an additive that's supposed to make it even harder. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I tested a quart of that stuff. It sprayed awesome, looked really nice. I did a sample brushing out a back of a cabinet door, took it straight out of the can, didn't brush very well. Of course it might be better if you add extender or something to it. They have an additive that's supposed to make it even harder. Let us know how it goes.


Yea I tried some myself but not on a big job like this ...will see C2 is a good quality paint just a PITA to get here ...


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I tested a quart of that stuff. It sprayed awesome, looked really nice. I did a sample brushing out a back of a cabinet door, took it straight out of the can, didn't brush very well. Of course it might be better if you add extender or something to it. They have an additive that's supposed to make it even harder. Let us know how it goes.


Ok just shot a few cab doors with C2 semi gloss in Benjamin Moore color stories String of Pearl. Light pastel grey. It sprays nice and brushed pretty well to. More to come as we have frames and doors rest of cabinets will post pics ASAP. The C2 semi is very pricey as they have to take out a quart from gallon and then add a a quart additive t make the semi.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I liked the sheen of the satin. Nice and low. Not a fan of semi on cabs. Have to be even more perfect.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

So whats the deal with advance? Some here love it and some say it takes a week to cure. What is the deal.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I liked the sheen of the satin. Nice and low. Not a fan of semi on cabs. Have to be even more perfect.


True but customer wants the semi not to shiny not like a gloss it's also a pastel color.


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

TJ Paint said:


> So whats the deal with advance? Some here love it and some say it takes a week to cure. What is the deal.


I like it and it does take some time to cure but the satin finish is a real nice finish.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> So whats the deal with advance? Some here love it and some say it takes a week to cure. What is the deal.


Yes ;-)


----------



## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Damon T said:


> I liked the sheen of the satin. Nice and low. Not a fan of semi on cabs. Have to be even more perfect.


I gotta tell ya the finish of the C2 semi is a thing of beauty for sure. Yes it's shiny and will show imperfections like any higher gloss paint but man the finished product is freakn nice. The Satin is nice as well but man the semi is nice. Hope PPG sees the light and makes a semi soon.


----------



## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> So whats the deal with advance? Some here love it and some say it takes a week to cure. What is the deal.


Depends how thick you lay it down. Thin coats take as little as 2 mos. to cure; thick coats around 6 mos. Never a week, unless you were joking. It does eventually harden up like an alkyd, though. Proclassic acrylic-alkyd and ProMar 200 cure a bit faster, but still take over a month, normally longer...


----------

