# Caulking brick to drywall



## ogre (Oct 25, 2007)

I am working on a comercial interior with exposed brick on the exterior walls. The drywall edge where the drywall meets the brick is a little rough. Some of the gaps are as large as an inch and a half. Today after we are complete with our second coat the PM on site tells us he wants us to caulk all those gaps. I feel that gaps that large is outside our scope of work and if they wanted them fixed they should have taken it up with drywallers. We tried to caulk one corner and it looked pretty bad. Is the painting contractor responsible fixing these problems?
Thanks.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Inch and a half is too large for any caulking.

Depends on your agreement and contract if it's your responsibility or not.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I would never have thought to spell out a contract in that kind of detail. I would call that too large to caulk and ask for trim to be installed to bridge the gap if it needs to be closed.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Have them flat tape along the brick to clean up then caulk. Use the PDCA standards to your advantage.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Have them flat tape along the brick to clean up then caulk. Use the PDCA standards to your advantage.


Much better idea. What exactly is flat taping again? I have heard it hear but not seen it done, and at least know it was done.


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## The Paint Supplier (Mar 8, 2012)

That is def too large to just caulk. Try using backer rod first. 








there are many brands out there

The Paint Supplier


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I always find it funny that I have never seen backer rod at a paint store, which is where we buy all our caulk!


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## The Paint Supplier (Mar 8, 2012)

I find it even funnier that most painters have no idea what it even is. Maybe this is why its not carried... 

The Paint Supplier


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Even with backer rod, the size of gap is too large. Trust me. I don't sell the stuff, but I have used it.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Backer wha?


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## ogre (Oct 25, 2007)

We did use backer rod. The gap was still to large for it to look good.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

DeanV said:


> Much better idea. What exactly is flat taping again? I have heard it hear but not seen it done, and at least know it was done.


You apply a tape on a flat surface close to the edge of what you are trying to conceal. Like fire taping, just smoother.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Depending on whats going on i might just install a L channel typ cornerbead and mud it to the drwall


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> You apply a tape on a flat surface close to the edge of what you are trying to conceal. Like fire taping, just smoother.


Seems like it would crack with mud over unsupported tape???


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

A zip strip should be installed where the drywall meets brick. The carpenters are butchers.


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## The Paint Supplier (Mar 8, 2012)

If up against stucco you should try a product called Mor-Flexx from sashco. Its a textured caulk, very flexible, and paintable. I would also tape the frame and peal back for a nice edge.









The Paint Supplier


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

DeanV said:


> I always find it funny that I have never seen backer rod at a paint store, which is where we buy all our caulk!


 You got to think inside the box for this stuff.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> Depending on whats going on i might just install a L channel typ cornerbead and mud it to the drwall


Trimtex makes a great tear-away one.

Dean, It wont be solid to screw around with but some paper tape, hotmud and primer will make it strong enough to support the tip of a caulk gun and finger. I have done a few chimneys to drywall.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

mudbone said:


> You got to think inside the box for this stuff.


Ok, that one made me laugh.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

DeanV said:


> Seems like it would crack with mud over unsupported tape???


If use use a durabond to fill crack and let it set up then flt tape joint followed by a elastermeric caulk where the 2 join you should have no problem.


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## ogre (Oct 25, 2007)

These all sound like good solutions. My problem is the painting of the space is complete. I was not concerned with the gap because I am not the drywall contractor. I was told it was ready for paint. Now I was asked to take care of the problem. I dont think I can. Now at least I know what to tell the contractor should have been done prior to prime and paint


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## Bob547 (Aug 27, 2011)

I would explain to the owner or GC that the gaps are too wide to caulk and he should get the taper to fix it. It never fails, everything is always left to the painters, I always point out all the hacked up work to the builder or owner before I start a job.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

I don't think caulk is the solution, it should get a piece of trim for a gap that large


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