# Cut in on very course texture



## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

I am cutting in on this very rough texture. The texture makes the gap between the trim uneven and I am having a hard time figuring out how to make it look sharp. If I am right on the edge , when there is a large glob of texture it seals the gap and that makes it all look , like it does, ****e. anyone else dealt with this? 1st pic unpainted, 2nd and 3rd is trim and base. Also , patching some holes and sanding and wondering if there is a method to duplicate this texture in a small area short of using a hopper.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Use tape and caulk it. Paint it right away after the caulk is down or let it tack just a bit, depends what caulk it is. And peel the tape off right away. 



The magic comes from not letting the caulk and paint dry on top of the tape. 



Also the placement of the tape, needs to be about 1/16th of an inch ontop of the trim. You have to create your own straight line with the tape.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Clean any stuff between the trim and wall as best you can, tape the trim, caulk the trim and wait a few minutes for the caulk to set up, paint it and pull the tape. You may have to re do small sections where there are bigger gaps or if the caulk hasn't dried enough. You can use spray texture in a can to touch up small areas. They work with mixed results.


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

Yeah, thats the only thing that makes real sense now that I think about it . It would be faster to caulk it all than to mess around with that cut in. So, there is all kind of this wood like this on the rough texture, the cabinets and some crown moulding too . Just caulk all of it? it would look a lot better. The people I work with may take this as a radical departure from the PLAN.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

DittonWilson said:


> . Just caulk all of it? it would look a lot better. The people I work with may take this as a radical departure from the PLAN.



Yep. And I'm sure crooked lines, unhappy customers, and a job that takes 2x longer than budgeted, might also be a radical departure from their plan. 








Trust me/us. This works and we use it every day. It's just a timing thing. Use 1.5 inch or 1 1/2" tape. Why? Because it's easier to work with and you can slap it with your brush and not worry about hitting the trim, then just peel. Slap and go as they say. Just another tip.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Tape it off and seal the edge with a couple coats of gardz.
Then paint it.

Patches will need at least 2 coats of med-heavy orange peel splatter. I like the oil based vs. the latex. Leave it a little high, then you can knock it down a touch if needed after it dries in 5 mins. Use your gardz to prime these spots (I'd do it twice) prior to top coat.

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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*How far to go?*



DittonWilson said:


> I am cutting in on this very rough texture. The texture makes the gap between the trim uneven and I am having a hard time figuring out how to make it look sharp. If I am right on the edge , when there is a large glob of texture it seals the gap and that makes it all look , like it does, ****e. anyone else dealt with this? 1st pic unpainted, 2nd and 3rd is trim and base. Also , patching some holes and sanding and wondering if there is a method to duplicate this texture in a small area short of using a hopper.


The trim looks like it has been stained, but not finished. This will likely make any white paint or white caulk want to soak into the trim and be hard to remove. I would consider taping as close to the edge with yellow Frog tape, then caulk the crack with a clear paintable caulk. This should seal the edge of the tape and prevent white paint from later accidentally seeping under the tape and onto the trim. Even if some clear caulk gets under the tape, it will not show like white caulk or white paint would! I would let the caulk dry just long enough to paint it, then cut it in, then carefully pull the tape off. Try a small section and see how it works.

If you have some gaps that are too big for caulk you might push some Easy Sand into those areas first.

You might also try caulking a small area as above, then immediately pull the tape, let the caulk dry, then cut in with a brush as you will no longer be trying to fill the crack with paint (and making a mess in the process), but now will hopefully have a smooth surface to brush a clean line over.

If my eyes are fooling me and there is a sheen finish on the trim that will not show where clear caulk has dried, skip the tape and caulk with clear, let dry and cut in.

I once had to repaint a bedroom that had stained baseboards with wide gaps. I couldn't pull the baseboard in with screws as there was too much crud in the way behind the baseboards, so I carefully taped the top edge, then caulked with clear paintable caulk(some spots were so wide I had to caulk twice), then cut in with the wall color, then pulled the tape off after ecerything had dried. Some of the tape was difficult to remove after letting everything dry, so if you can tape, caulk, remove tape immediately, then cut in, that might be the best way. This was not the ideal fix, but they were selling the house and needed something to be done and that was the best I could come up with considering their budget.

Good luck!

futtyos


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

run a small bead of clear just enough to seal, no need to tape first


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Can somebody help me understand why you'd tape it,caulk it, pull the tape off quickly, cut it in then roll it out....its gonna get splatter all over that base. No? The tape needs to stay down. Dont get me wrong, caulk is awesome... Clear caulk. You'd have to run it tight and tape it anyway though. The reason I suggested gardz is because it dries clear. Will seal that edge and you dont have to remove it immediately. It's a clear coat that is easily paintable vs some of the other clears available and ya need to prime the new patches anyway..lay it on there a couple times and it'll do the same thing caulk will.To each their own, and I love caulk I just think its dumb to tape it twice. There doesn't appear to be a finish on it so if ya splatter it it ain't commin off...just musings of a bored painter i guess....

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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

lilpaintchic said:


> Tape it off and seal the edge with a couple coats of gardz.
> Then paint it.
> 
> Patches will need at least 2 coats of med-heavy orange peel splatter. I like the oil based vs. the latex. Leave it a little high, then you can knock it down a touch if needed after it dries in 5 mins. Use your gardz to prime these spots (I'd do it twice) prior to top coat.
> ...


Geez,I tried the heavy orange peel splatter and, yeah, my boss told me to get the oil based. Well, the room I was working in today has a wood wainscot halfway up the wall (i know, Im a total hack for having no idea what kind of wood it is) . Anyway, a few drops of the splatter dripped down on the wainscot and it did not want to come out. I ended up rubbing the finish off trying to get it out and now i have to look like an idiot until they can match the stain color.


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

lilpaintchic said:


> Can somebody help me understand why you'd tape it,caulk it, pull the tape off quickly, cut it in then roll it out....its gonna get splatter all over that base. No? The tape needs to stay down. Dont get me wrong, caulk is awesome... Clear caulk. You'd have to run it tight and tape it anyway though. The reason I suggested gardz is because it dries clear. Will seal that edge and you dont have to remove it immediately. It's a clear coat that is easily paintable vs some of the other clears available and ya need to prime the new patches anyway..lay it on there a couple times and it'll do the same thing caulk will.To each their own, and I love caulk I just think its dumb to tape it twice. There doesn't appear to be a finish on it so if ya splatter it it ain't commin off...just musings of a bored painter i guess....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Since I have already established that I really just figuring this out as I go, here are the facts. I tried tape and caulking on the base this morning , it did not work for me. For one, the top of the base is so thin that getting an 1/16 reveal is, half the base, and the caulk stood out, it drew the eye to the line thats the only way i can describe it. AND, yes the blue tape still bleeds a little AND i know that my boss will not go for frog tape. AND, you are absolutley right about leaving the tape on . Splattered all over the base. The thing is , that MOST of the wood trim sits out far enough from the wall that I can cut underneath it, especially if we knock down some of that rough texture where it meets the wood trim, and believe me, it looks a lot better than the caulk line. I can appreciate you guys telling me that caulking it is the right way to do it, but , it didn't work in this case . it is still taking way too long to cut in though.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

lilpaintchic said:


> Can somebody help me understand why you'd tape it,caulk it, pull the tape off quickly, cut it in then roll it out....its gonna get splatter all over that base. No? The tape needs to stay down. Dont get me wrong, caulk is awesome... Clear caulk. You'd have to run it tight and tape it anyway though. The reason I suggested gardz is because it dries clear. Will seal that edge and you dont have to remove it immediately. It's a clear coat that is easily paintable vs some of the other clears available and ya need to prime the new patches anyway..lay it on there a couple times and it'll do the same thing caulk will.To each their own, and I love caulk I just think its dumb to tape it twice. There doesn't appear to be a finish on it so if ya splatter it it ain't commin off...just musings of a bored painter i guess....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The tape and caulk should be the final step. I would mask the base, cut and roll the wall twice, unmask, THEN retape, caulk, paint. pull. You COULD try to mask it perfect from the get go, then caulk, paint and pull as the last step, but I've never had masking stay on good enough for that, or I step on it, etc, so I take the extra step. It makes a perfect line, and caulks it all at once.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Another option would be get a caulk that matches close to the base, or use clear. That way if it bleeds through a little, you wont see it.


OR.... Providing the base has a finish on it, paint the wall the best you can, match the caulk and caulk the base and wipe it really good off the base. We used to do that in homes with finished trim like that. It takes forever though.


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## The Classic Painter (Oct 7, 2016)

To the OP, I'm just curious. 
In the pic where you are rolling out the wall,
is that a dark carpet covering the floor ?


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Protect the trim and wainscotting*



DittonWilson said:


> Geez,I tried the heavy orange peel splatter and, yeah, my boss told me to get the oil based. Well, the room I was working in today has a wood wainscot halfway up the wall (i know, Im a total hack for having no idea what kind of wood it is) . Anyway, a few drops of the splatter dripped down on the wainscot and it did not want to come out. I ended up rubbing the finish off trying to get it out and now i have to look like an idiot until they can match the stain color.


If you haven't already figured out what procedure you are going to follow, I would ask your boss exactly what he wants you to do and just follow that as best you can. That way if you make a mistake, you can tell your boss that you are just trying to do the job the way he told you to.

As far as the stained trim and wainscotting - it appeared to me that it was never finished with any type of clear coating. That is why you were able to wipe the stain off the wainsctting when you tried to clean the texture off of it. I would point out to your boss that this may happen again unless the trim and wainscotting is protected. This will put your boss on notice that this is a potential problem and that you don't want to be responsible for another stain rubbing incident in the event that he does not feel it necessary to protect the unsealed woodwork. Your boss might try adding something to the bill for the extra time involved in getting things to look right, but that is his problem, not yours.

The baseboards I did in reply #7 took lots of extra time that I did not get paid for. I did this extra work because I was trying to develop a relationship with the HO and their realtor.

Most of the advice you have gotten requires more time, some advice a lot of extra time. This should have been taken into account when doing the bid, but some of us don't see some of these things until after the bid is accepted by the HO. Keep all this in mind for when you strike out on your own and start working up your own bids for jobs.

futtyos


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

The Classic Painter said:


> To the OP, I'm just curious.
> In the pic where you are rolling out the wall,
> is that a dark carpet covering the floor ?


yes, dark and plush. its a nice carpet.


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

how did clear caulk stand out? theres barley a gap just cut a small tip off the end of some cock and put a thin bead in the gap. not sure why this is so hard


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Aside from caulk & tapping, I'd spread a little more drop cloth.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

jennifertemple said:


> Aside from caulk & tapping, I spread a little more drop cloth.


I was thinking a lot more, but what ever...

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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

lilpaintchic said:


> I was thinking a lot more, but what ever...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



I was trying not to be to harsh, but yup, definitely needs to cover a lot more of that CARPET.


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## The Classic Painter (Oct 7, 2016)

The use of more floor covering = tarps, was what I was alluding to
in my original post. Esp after you said it was very nice carpeting.

Just some friendly advice, learned the hard way.

I usually cover the entire floor of the rooms I am working in.

First thing I carry into a room is my tarps. It always impresses the customer
when they see the floors tarped. :smile:


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

This is a new guy and if we dont tell him, he won't learn! His boss sure isn't telling him...more protection=less headache.

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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

I would tape the trim, use a clear caulking (takes longer to dry) and paint, wall by wall. Pull the tape immediately to avoid any issues. 

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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

jennifertemple said:


> I was trying not to be to harsh, but yup, definitely needs to cover a lot more of that CARPET.


no need to hold back : ) . Anyway, we only have two drop cloths, i should have run the other one the length of that wall, but, we have to move them from wall to wall as we go.


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

The Classic Painter said:


> The use of more floor covering = tarps, was what I was alluding to
> in my original post. Esp after you said it was very nice carpeting.
> 
> Just some friendly advice, learned the hard way.
> ...


i will start collecting more tarps, out boss only sent us two. and i am already out 60$ because i bought a ladder.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*More information, please?*



DittonWilson said:


> i will start collecting more tarps, out boss only sent us two. and i am already out 60$ because i bought a ladder.


DW, may I ask a few questions? 

How old are you? 

How long have you been painting?

Who is your boss? I mean what kind of company is he running?

Why did he only give you 2 tarps? 

Why did you have to buy a ladder - meaning why did he not provide you with a ladder?

What are you being paid per hour - or are you being paid by the job?

You sound like you care about what you are doing and it also is beginning to sound like you are being taken advantage of by your boss.

futtyos


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Looks like your boss doesn't really know what he is doing. You should look for a company to work for that can properly equip a job.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

kmp said:


> Looks like your boss doesn't really know what he is doing. You should look for a company to work for that can properly equip a job.


Bingo. OP, your time is valuable. If it is at all possible,Kemp has given you the best advice anyone of us could offer. If you like to paint, find a bigger company in your area and sign on with them. If your boss cant even get you an appropriate amount of drops and a ladder to start with, it's only a matter of time before implosion. A proper company will teach you the correct way to do things and have the proper resources. Good luck no matter what you do!

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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

futtyos said:


> DW, may I ask a few questions?
> 
> How old are you?
> 
> ...


ask for the bull and you get the horns, er , i mean ask for more information and I will give you way too much. 

Here is the deal. I am in my 40's. how long have i been painting?; One year. I mean, i worked for a general contractor for a couple years who i was the to go guy when we had painting to do, but that wasn't really the kind of experience that, one needs to do this kind of thing. I am a recovering heroin addict, I have been clean about 5 years. I am just telling you this to explain why i am starting my career much later than normal people. I have not been the best employee over the years and I have had a superficial experience in a lot of different areas; tile, framing, roofs, forest work, farming ... all kinds of stuff, until I got fired or couldn't be bothered to show up. When I took a painting job last year I was getting ready to go back to school and finish my social work degree, it was a temporary thing. But, it turned out that I really liked painting. I mean, I could go into the details but, some combination of me being good at something and learning how to be valuable to my foreman. it would take some time to tell the story but, at some point I decided I wanted to be a professional painter and I threw everything I have into it. It can be seriously discouraging when I run into situations that illuminate my lack of knowledge and experience (vast) in my chosen profession, and how much more my 23 year old partner knows than me, but. I am 43, I am a single father with sole custody of my 9 year old, I have messed up the first half of my life and I have decided to throw everything I have at this profession . I have the finances behind me to start a company and I am going to, as soon as I feel like I am ready. which I definitely am not right now. But I am on a crash course. When I get home from work, after I make dinner and get the kid where he needs to go I am reading and researching and figuring this **** out. I will add, that lurking around Paint Talk and reading past posts and asking questions has been and invaluable resource, you guys are seriously awesome,thank you. I am here to stay and i am not afraid to ask stupid questions.

As far as my current employer. I separated from my first painting contract employer about three months ago, ( its a great story about a how to lose valuable employees, i'll PM it to anyone who asks). My foreman, who also seperated from this company around the same time, hooked me up with my current situation, and it totally rocks. He is paying me more than the last guy and he is paying me more than I have ever made in this area from ANY job , and really I feel, without sprayer experience, the most that he can and the most that I would expect. 

I really enjoy working for him , I have learned that his company is a lot his extended family in key positions and he doesn't hire a lot of people besides college kids in the summer to help them stain cabins in a resort area near here, and I think he does really well with that, so the commercial and residential stuff he has been getting for us(short drives from our homes instead of up in the woods) is , not a side project, but not the main focus of his attention in the summer. The point is that i like working for him very much and I don't think he is taking advantage of me at all, I think he is finding work for me that is near my home, and very beneficial in terms of helping me hone my painting skills and figure things out. And I think he is doing it with the intent of helping me learn how to do it on my own. 

So, now the hard part that I have been thinking about while I was typing above, Why only two tarps?! The truth of that matter is that , if I told him that I needed 10 new tarps, he would say "ok go get them", He turned us loose with the account and told us to get anything we needed. Both of us are very conscious of the responsibiltiy we have in having an "open" charge account at a paint store, and its pretty much our first too. So when we were at the store we decided to go for two 4*15s, maybe one is a 4*12. We are just figuring this out and navigating the cost/benefit situation. And, I can totally appreciate the benefits of tarping the whole floor. It would significantly speed up the rolling, which we are a little more slowly now near the base, since it was splattering, as warned here about, I think we are just going to run a strip of paper along that. So, long story short, I was misleading in that post because he didn't send them with me, I was responsible for buying (buying , not picking up from the shop) the tarps I thought we might need. I aspire to the idea of tarping off the whole floor, but, I started with the minimum of what I might need (we actually , my partner and I collaborate on decisions). and i will just say that we did two coat that room, with our two tarps, without getting a single drop on the capet, and now we are out of there, although the basement is carpeted too. But , seriously I can see the advantage of having everything covered , but we managed it hop jumping out two tarps along the four feet that mattered because , how are we going to smash 5 feet out? And, if we have the floor and the base masked the sprayers could just come in and spray it, oh yeah , but then you would have to mask the crown molding too. I do understand and , as i said, aspire to having enough tarps with us to cover everything. But we did manage with two this time. Until the HO changed the color today. The paint looks lighter than she thought is would look, she is going into town to pick out a new color , tomorrow ,because we are in bfe . so everything we did the last three days will be done AGAIN, in a darker color, and it will be done well, and look great. 

I did mention to my boss yesterday, when he came out to the job, that the consensus here at Paint Talk was that we should be caulking all this base and cabinets and , all this wood.(i am guessing it is oak ? ). He said "Yeah they are probably right, lets think about that." I am get a tube of the clear caulk in the morning and run some tests and see how it looks against the white stuff i have. To be totally honest though , the HO has only good things to say about the three rooms we finished , and we are both getting pretty quick with cutting in behind that oak. 

thats about it for now, I hope you don't expect lengthy replies like this in the future. Because I really don't have the time : )

Right , I forgot. Why I bought the ladder; I needed it and i had the money and i figured,; every time i buy something thats part my growing tool inventory, but that was misleading too, I made it sound like i was put out by having to buy a ladder, but he probably would have got one if I asked. But that is also something I am finding the balance in, trying to be valuable and save my boss money , between robbing myself. I mean , back with ol whats his name, the first guy,; I sometimes reported less hours than i worked to make it look like i got things done faster.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Thanks for more info*

Ditton, thanks for taking the time to tell us more about your situation. It looks like there may be more factors involved than I thought.

Just curious - you say that the HO wants the walls painted a darker color after seeing the color she picked was too light. I hope you are getting paid for the extra work.

futtyos


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

Just curious - you say that the HO wants the walls painted a darker color after seeing the color she picked was too light. I hope you are getting paid for the extra work.

futtyos[/QUOTE]

Oh yeah. Apparently this is time and materials.


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

that bad eh?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Go to lowes or Home depot and get a few of those cheap blue drops. I was very skeptical about them at first, but now They are my go to interior drop. They seem flimsy, but they work good, they're dirt cheap, and you can fit a lot of them in a small box. http://www.floormatshop.com/Trimaco-One-Tuff-Non-Woven-Drop-Cloth-4-Foot-x-15-Foot.aspx?_vsrefdom=floormatshop&gclid=CjwKCAjwy_XaBRAWEiwApfjKHsT-Zi_tciCOd3rFnMKMlIwthzwZ0Tu_UpZlRiW2aKfX4dx2l0nrBxoCoYkQAvD_BwE


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

lilpaintchic said:


> Can somebody help me understand why you'd tape it,caulk it, pull the tape off quickly, cut it in then roll it out....its gonna get splatter all over that base. No? The tape needs to stay down. Dont get me wrong, caulk is awesome... Clear caulk. You'd have to run it tight and tape it anyway though. The reason I suggested gardz is because it dries clear. Will seal that edge and you dont have to remove it immediately. It's a clear coat that is easily paintable vs some of the other clears available and ya need to prime the new patches anyway..lay it on there a couple times and it'll do the same thing caulk will.To each their own, and I love caulk I just think its dumb to tape it twice. There doesn't appear to be a finish on it so if ya splatter it it ain't commin off...just musings of a bored painter i guess....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Ceiling and base on a rough wall texture: Get an angle sanding sponge. Run the angle edge where the ceiling meets the wall and the wall meets the trim. You should have about an 1/8th of an inch smooth area to cut in. Run some caulk and 2" tape over the base and trim. Leave it where it is just taped to the top and sides to protect from splatter. Did it that way for 21+ years and damned if I know how it worked.

Glad I could help.


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## The Classic Painter (Oct 7, 2016)

Woodco said:


> Go to lowes or Home depot and get a few of those cheap blue drops. I was very skeptical about them at first, but now They are my go to interior drop. They seem flimsy, but they work good, they're dirt cheap, and you can fit a lot of them in a small box. http://www.floormatshop.com/Trimaco-One-Tuff-Non-Woven-Drop-Cloth-4-Foot-x-15-Foot.aspx?_vsrefdom=floormatshop&gclid=CjwKCAjwy_XaBRAWEiwApfjKHsT-Zi_tciCOd3rFnMKMlIwthzwZ0Tu_UpZlRiW2aKfX4dx2l0nrBxoCoYkQAvD_BwE



IMO

If you are going to be in this trade for the long haul, I would suggest spending the extra 1.50 for the 12oz canvas drop. They will last many, many years, if used for interior. The 8oz canvas drops are only 11.00 or 3/9.50 ea.

Only downside to the canvas is the weight carrying in and out of houses.

Yeah there is shipping costs added unless you meet the minimum order
which is about 100 bucks, which is easy to do on supplies.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Go for the heavy weight drops, paint can bleed through an 8 oz drop easier. Also if you step on a drip on a lighter drop cloth you can push it through onto the floor.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

Vylum said:


> run a small bead of clear just enough to seal, no need to tape first


Exactly. :thumbsup:


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

The Classic Painter said:


> IMO
> 
> If you are going to be in this trade for the long haul, I would suggest spending the extra 1.50 for the 12oz canvas drop. They will last many, many years, if used for interior. The 8oz canvas drops are only 11.00 or 3/9.50 ea.
> 
> ...


Absolutely not. First of all, canvas drops should be used outside. Spilled paint will go right through them. Its the Butyl drops that should be used inside, and they are a lot pricier. Any decent painter should have separate piles of drops for insides and exteriors. 

I've been painting for 22 years. I wouldnt use those blue ones if they didnt work. The blue ones work great inside. I have a huge wheeled box I keep them all in. theres a few butyls in there too, but I can pack a TON of the blue ones in there. And, theyre cheap enough to be practically disposable. In my box, I have enough drops to completely cover a three bedroom house. You couldnt keep HALF that many of the good Butyl ones, and it'd be heavier than chit.

Not to mention, you can roll up into an occupied high end house, with a ton of spanking new drops to leave a good impression on the homeowner.

I was skeptical when the last guy I worked for turned me on to them. He was an idiot though, he would try to use them outside, where they would blow away. I've spilled gallons of paint on them. They are about as resistant as a butyl drop, and a lot more than a canvas, and you can just roll it up and throw it away.


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

i dont spill a ton of paint on drops so im not too concerned, just a drop here or there and some roller mist. some dudes are up to their elbows in paint by 9 am so absorption is probably important to them


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Theres also a safety issue with canvas drops inside. The last time I tried to walk on one on a hardwood floor, it slipped right out from under my feet, and I damn near busted my ass. That was a brand new one I bought to keep under my paste table. It got immediately put in my exterior box after that.


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## deadend (Aug 1, 2013)

...one method is to score the rough edge with a 5-n-1 or folded sandpaper and create a valley for the paint to flow into and trick the eye...


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

deadend said:


> ...one method is to score the rough edge with a 5-n-1 or folded sandpaper and create a valley for the paint to flow into and trick the eye...


thats essentially what we ended up doing. Knocked the texture down a little where it meets the trim and then just cut it in with a brush.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Of course you can always take a course on cutting in coarse texture.


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

Sorry to keep everyone in suspense : ) . At first I got a little intimated realizing that I am essentially broadcasting my mistakes to the professional painting world. And as I new guy I probably make a lot . But I am going to keep reporting the facts of the case warts and all. At the very least it may make an interesting document of my education.

So, in the spirit of being thorough. Heres what happened. We just knocked down the texture where it met the trim a little and cut it in. I personally think it looks better than the test section where I tried taping , caulking, and immediately removed the tape. It still bled through in spots but more important , to my eye it did not look any better. In the future I think what I would do is do a sample for the HO and let them decide which looks best. Perhaps with the caveat that the caulking method would take more time and possibly cost a little more. I don't now, maybe thats not how you guys do things. But the way we did it looks fine, I will post some pictures, and I guarantee that the HO is really happy with the way we did it.

As to the tarp situation on the very nice carpet. We managed great in the room I showed in the picture. We were both VERY conscious and aware of the carpet and did not get a drop of paint on it using our two long tarps.
However, there was also a basement covered in the same carpet and a flight of stairs going down. We did a lot of work OVER the stairs. Two things happened; 1. we just did not maintain the high level of awareness that we had when we did the bedroom. Just working on different rooms and needing something in the next etc. 2. Our boss sent his nephew over for a few days to help, and simply put, it was hard for him to maintain a high degree of attention. And I took my kid to a concert for his birthday for 1 1/2 of those days, so i wasn't there to be type 1 about it. 

I am just going to say , indeed, tarping off all finished floors would have not taken too much time and with those 20$ trimaco drops it would cost around 200$ . worth it since you will be re-using them anyway. just the way to do it , especially if your crew is not particularly experienced or if you have rotating cast members. I will be doing it this way in the future.

Be that as it may, the basement and the stairs did not fair as well as the bedroom. I think the stairs, just because we were working on three different floors. People got careless, got paint on their shoes, and walked three flights of stairs and 3 different rooms. Part of the problem in the basement was people moving tarps and dragging the top along the floor ! This could be avoided by tarping the whole floor or just reminding people that there is paint on the top of their tarp. But, there is a lot to tell people and tarping the whole floor just deals with the problem independent of workers ability to understand and care. 

The end result of this mistake cost me spending most of Saturday cleaning latex paint off of nice carpet, for no pay, i might add, because I am not charging my employer or the HO for cleaning up paint I never should have let get tracked around the home. So, it cost me 200$ anyway. I m just going to buy tarps next time.. On the plus side, my not charging to fix my mistakes, and the exceptional job i did on the floors impressed the hell out of the homeowner and she left us a fantastic social media review. 

Thats about it. After we saw how much the rough texture was splattering paint on the trim was just ran a sheet of masking paper along it.


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

DittonWilson said:


> So, in the spirit of being thorough. Heres what happened. We just knocked down the texture where it met the trim a little and cut it in. I personally think it looks better than the test section where I tried taping , caulking, and immediately removed the tape. It still bled through in spots but more important , to my eye it did not look any better. In the future I think what I would do is do a sample for the HO and let them decide which looks best. Perhaps with the caveat that the caulking method would take more time and possibly cost a little more. I don't now, maybe thats not how you guys do things. But the way we did it looks fine, I will post some pictures, and I guarantee that the HO is really happy with the way we did it.


knocking down texture isnt reliable and im not convinced you can get the same quality line but maybe as a beginner it does. sounds like your cocking needs work or your taping


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

lilpaintchic said:


> This is a new guy and if we dont tell him, he won't learn! His boss sure isn't telling him...more protection=less headache.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Ditto-Wilson.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Mudbone! Another voice from the past. :thumbsup:


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## DittonWilson (Jun 16, 2018)

https://imgur.com/a/zM0Sk53


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