# Aura & Lap Marks



## Lauren (Feb 22, 2009)

I'm using Aura on new, primed drywall and am getting lap marks. I usually use P&L Accolade but thought I'd give Aura a try with so many posts claiming it's so great. The interior of this house is 5,000+sf so the job is large. I started yesterday and see that I have lap marks presumably from overlapping. Question: How do I get rid of these marks! Anyone have any suggestions? The finished result looks terrible - I've never had this problem before. -Lauren


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Switch back to accolade?


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

to rid yourself from these pesky snail trails, i would recomend changing your rolling technique.

i squeeze out the paint from the edge of the skin occaisionally by rolling just the edge at a 45,,,,then hurry and flatten that out.

if you dont do this quickly, youll have a real mess.

i use aura matte on walls, and they look sweeeeet. best wall paint ever.

what skin are you using?

i use a high capacity 3/8 for speed,,,,,or a soft woven 3/8 for individual rooms.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Lauren said:


> I'm using Aura on new, primed drywall and am getting lap marks. I usually use P&L Accolade but thought I'd give Aura a try with so many posts claiming it's so great. The interior of this house is 5,000+sf so the job is large. I started yesterday and see that I have lap marks presumably from overlapping. Question: How do I get rid of these marks! Anyone have any suggestions? The finished result looks terrible - I've never had this problem before. -Lauren


Lauren, which roller cover are you using? The Aura specific cover?


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## Lauren (Feb 22, 2009)

I'm using a Purdy 1/4" nap roller. The walls are smooth, no texture. The look that I'm trying to achieve is very modern using the Aura Matte paint. How can I repair the lap marks that currently appear? -Lauren


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

ive heard some people say that aura matte touches up perfectly.

imo, it doesnt.

so i would imagine your best bet would be to polesand and repaint, paying attention to detail.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

if theyre big walls, maybe some extender. ive only used this in the sg for trim,,,,,but hey, its worth a shot.


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## brushmstr (Feb 15, 2009)

I used Aura occasionally and found it to be good. However, I never use a 1/4 nap. If your painting with a 9" roller and a 1/4 nap your asking for trouble. I use 3/8 and an 18'' roller. No problems


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

My standard roller for all wall painting is a 1/2" nap pro-dooz (9"). Everytime I try something else, I seem to come back.


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## Lauren (Feb 22, 2009)

I'm using a 1/2" nap roller to get a very smooth finish. I don't want stipple if at all possible. We sanded and sanded and sanded to get a perfectly smooth finish. My selection of 1/4" nap was to keep the finish flat...that's why I'm using Aura Matte. Do you think 3/8 would make a difference? -Lauren


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## Lauren (Feb 22, 2009)

Any suggestions on fixing / touching up the lap marks without re-painting?


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

Lauren said:


> I'm using a 1/2" nap roller to get a very smooth finish. I don't want stipple if at all possible. We sanded and sanded and sanded to get a perfectly smooth finish. My selection of 1/4" nap was to keep the finish flat...that's why I'm using Aura Matte. Do you think 3/8 would make a difference? -Lauren


 
The problem with 1/4 inch is you cant keep a wet enough edge because it doesnt put much paint on.

I will tell you one thing, I personally think Aura wall paint is horrible to use.

Just my opinion. It is just sticky and weird, and in it's own category, with all other wall paints being similar in their category.

I have heard a lot of advice on using Aura like special stuff you can add to the paint, and special rollers you can use, and special techniques to use it.

But why do all these things and pay way more for the product when the other products work like they always have and are less expensive?

I cant figure it out. I read that the binders can hold 3 times as much pigment and figured that was a good reason to use it. That maybe one coat coverage would be the upside of using Aura.

But it is so sticky and weird that, it doesnt flow out good off the roller, and the nap can pick it back up while it is being rolled leaving visible transluscent areas that you need to use a second coat any way.

I personally do not see what all the hype is about. And I was prepared to love the paint when it debuted, being a lifelong user of Alkyd Satin impervo, and BM's other interior wall paints.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Lauren said:


> I'm using a 1/2" nap roller to get a very smooth finish. I don't want stipple if at all possible. We sanded and sanded and sanded to get a perfectly smooth finish. My selection of 1/4" nap was to keep the finish flat...that's why I'm using Aura Matte. Do you think 3/8 would make a difference? -Lauren


Lauren - how long you been in the painting business? A 1/4" nap roller is strictly meant for oils and/or high gloss latex paint on walls. If you are using aura matte - you will probably have the most success using a 3/8" roller sleeve using either an Elder&Jenks dual-coater roller sleeve or a purdy white dove sleeve.

I have worked with another woman designer/painter - and I first noticed her obsession over 'stipple' - which confuses me alot - you're not suppose to look at walls with a magnifying glass. A paint is engineered to go on a certain way. As a painter it's not your job to manipulate the finish - I've noticed that a paint likes to go on a certain way - and that's it - other paint brands go on differently. I am no big fan of Aura paint - although from the very first time I used it - I've had no problem with it. I think their 'matte' does have that characteristic ceramic look to it. And that's just how it is

If you are after a certain 'look' - you have to go looking towards other formulations - a certain paint has it's own characteristics - and you can't change it no matter what you do, without ruining the chemistry.

If I were you - I noticed that 'look' the other day when quoting a customer a few days ago - It was oil based Benjamin Moore 'Dulamel' eggshell finish. I know a couple of others in latex that can get you that finish as well - in latex, pm me if you want.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

1/4" is not sufficient nap to achieve the desired results and uniformity of film thickness. Use a 3/8 Aura cover, or a 3/8-1/2" Arrowworthy Microfiber cover for smoothness, opacity, and proper film build. Since Aura has a very tight film, you may just need another coat to eliminate the striations left over from the 1/4" roller. Aura has extraordinary touch up and sheen uniformity. Make sure that the colorant is not separating in the roller pan and incorporate it back into to the paint if you see this happening. Some people struggle with Aura, others find the experience great. It does have unique handling and application characteristics that can be a challenge if you have been painting for years and are use to certain techniques.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> My standard roller for all wall painting is a 1/2" nap pro-dooz (9"). Everytime I try something else, I seem to come back.


Im with Dean on that.... its 1/2. Really tho - you can make a 3/4 look like it was done with a 3/8. Its all technique, consistency and balancing the load. 1/4"? huh... I couldn't imagine that experience you had Lauren.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> The problem with 1/4 inch is you cant keep a wet enough edge because it doesnt put much paint on.
> 
> I will tell you one thing, I personally think Aura wall paint is horrible to use.
> 
> ...


I have to agree 100% with you. Honestly... dried finish aside... I see little benefit over a gallon of Ultra-Hide flat, especially on coverage and if I had to pick which one I prefer to spread -- thats obvious the one with less headache and the one that allows me to get the job done quicker.

I get the impression Aura is a paint for a specific application rather than a wall paint solution.


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## Lauren (Feb 22, 2009)

OK, I'm going to 3/8 roller. I'll post the results. Appreciate everyone's feedback. I've been painting for years and always so proud of my results. Today I'm so disappointed. -Lauren


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

For me, Aura has always rolled out great in regular residential painting. No real learning curve there. We did have some issues on very large commercial walls once, but the painter who had problems was relatively inexperienced and I think that had more to do with it than anything else. Getting the right amount of paint on the cut-in took a little practice for me.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

DeanV said:


> For me, Aura has always rolled out great in regular residential painting. No real learning curve there. We did have some issues on very large commercial walls once, but the painter who had problems was relatively inexperienced and I think that had more to do with it than anything else. Getting the right amount of paint on the cut-in took a little practice for me.


 
For me if I had one complaint towards Aura - it would be the cuts as well. It seems to be very easy to get the 'dribbles' on the cuts with Aura.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> The problem with 1/4 inch is you cant keep a wet enough edge because it doesnt put much paint on.
> 
> I will tell you one thing, I personally think Aura wall paint is horrible to use.
> 
> ...


I cant gree with Last Craftsman more. I just did a 6000 sq ft repaint mostly just walls. I wanted to give Aura a shot on a large scale (for me).. there were alot of different colors and I wanted to take advantage of the self priming and coverage properties. Phooey...stuff is too wierd and always needed two coats plus it saved no time because I had to wait for the cut to dry before rolling. Just not a fan...maybe for very dark colors like 3 & 4 bases but for anything else it is not worth in my opinion.

Lauren I believe it says right on the can to use a 3/8ths roller...I used 3/8ths super-dooz and the walls do look mint....I'd wait for the cut to dry completely and roll with a good amount of pressure and fast....

I hope to post more...Ive been a member for awhile...but lurking...you guys are all nuts


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Aura = poop.

expensive poop.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Some prefer Budweiser over a glass of fine wine.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Some prefer Budweiser over a glass of fine wine.


 
Not me, I prefer quality over quantity any day.

I would rather spend 6 dollars and only drink one excellent beer, than spend 8 dollars on a 12 pack of donky-piss.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

LC

I think I have agreed with most everything you have written on this forum prior to this. Not your most eloquent explanation, but its ok to agree to disagree on this one. If the product doesnt work for you, it doesnt work for you. There are alot that dont work for me, as with anyone. Thats what keeps things interesting.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> Switch back to accolade?


This solution is to simple.

If we want to pursue the obsession of always changing products for no other reason than so we can say they are new and improved, we need to make things as complicated as possible.

This includes all kinds of caveats, special rollers, and more money to achieve. 

The more of a hassle, and complicated things are, the happier we will all be!


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Some prefer Budweiser over a glass of fine wine.


I wouldn't know I hate both, along with Aura.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

How times changed - I remember when Aura was brand new - and you'd think painters around the country were busting down the doors to get the stuff. I never thought it was a bad product - just didn't see what made it so superior? Three coats of a deep red base to cover light yellow walls was enough to convice me it wasn't worth paying $60/can for 'two' coat coverage - when in fact it wasn't covering in two coats -and especially when the 'reps' were trying to back off their initial claims and typical exclusions. For me it was simple - I know Regal would have covered in 3 coats as well in difficult situations - and it's much cheaper. So why not stick with what works?

It has one interesting property - I don't think it takes time to 'settle' in once it's dry - it seems like it's already cross polymerised the minute its dry. So you can easily 2nd coat it in the same day. With some other paints - it seems iffy sometimes - even Regal. And 2nd 'feather' cuts do blend in perfectly - without having to waste time on a full blown 2nd cut like I was trained.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> I wouldn't know I hate both, along with Aura.


:001_tongue:


In your estimation, does Aura go better with meat or fish?

Also do you prefer it chilled or at room temperature?

:whistling2:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

lol, no doubt.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> Switch back to accolade?


you know accolade hasn't been good in years, Red Seal is much better in my opinion..

BTW to the OP I never had problems with lap marks with Aura, other BM paint yes, Aura no.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> How times changed - I remember when Aura was brand new - and you'd think painters around the country were busting down the doors to get the stuff. I never thought it was a bad product - just didn't see what made it so superior? Three coats of a deep red base to cover light yellow walls was enough to convice me it wasn't worth paying $60/can for 'two' coat coverage - when in fact it wasn't covering in two coats -and especially when the 'reps' were trying to back off their initial claims and typical exclusions. For me it was simple - I know Regal would have covered in 3 coats as well in difficult situations - and it's much cheaper. So why not stick with what works?
> 
> It has one interesting property - I don't think it takes time to 'settle' in once it's dry - it seems like it's already cross polymerised the minute its dry. So you can easily 2nd coat it in the same day. With some other paints - it seems iffy sometimes - even Regal. And 2nd 'feather' cuts do blend in perfectly - without having to waste time on a full blown 2nd cut like I was trained.


I have yet had to three coat Aura, and you getting hosed if you paying 60$ because we all know that's not contractor price.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> I have yet had to three coat Aura, and you getting hosed if you paying 60$ because we all know that's not contractor price.


It was when I bought 5 gallons of it a little over a year ago.
Oh wait, it was $59 and change.

If the customer had not _specifically_ requested Aura I would have turned around and walked out of the BM store.
I was told Aura is pricey because the special tint requires a new dispenser that costs $10,000 to each independent BM retailer.
I could care less, the price is probably still laughable today compared to SW products I know for a fact work just as well if not better and cost $25.00 less.
At my price.
The big problem is that BM relies on Joe Blow and his Acme Paint Store to sell their products whereas Sherwin Williams slings paint out of Sherwin Williams stores. Joe B. just can't lower his prices enough to make it worth my while.

Why am I still up? I have to work in the a.m.!!!

:blink:


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Joe Blow is an independent and puts their own capital at risk like you and me. SW is company owned and the profits go to Cleveland, just like the big box.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NACE said:


> Joe Blow is an independent and puts their own capital at risk like you and me. SW is company owned and the profits go to Cleveland, just like the big box.


All tho I agree with this statement because My independent store gives me great service and the owner is a great guy, I am a small biz and so is he..

90% of the BM store in the Chicago area now are owned by BM there are very few small mom and pop stores left here. Matter of fact BM just finalized a deal to buy 17 EPCO store in Chicago metro and they were both BM dealers and PPG, so I would assume the PPG will be gone after the transition.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

WisePainter said:


> It was when I bought 5 gallons of it a little over a year ago.
> Oh wait, it was $59 and change.
> 
> If the customer had not _specifically_ requested Aura I would have turned around and walked out of the BM store.
> ...


Sooner or later all tints will become water based and while everyone else is playing catch up BM will have all the quirks worked out.

Also as stated in a lot of other posts, my clients pay for materials I charge it to them as we all do If I loss a job over a couple of dollars on paint price difference than that client is usually price shopping anyways..

IN my proposals that I spec Aura, I explain that I am using a low voc paint, that holds and retains its color better & longer, washes up great and touches up great even for eggshell.. I have seen these results and will stand by the products... And again I don't questions anyones ability on this site but after 16 years in biz and another 5 or so years painting prior I feel I know how to judge a product and how to correctly apply it..

If you getting good products and service from SW or PPG or anyone else and feel you have the right relationship with your vender then by all means continue that relationship... I use the products that I am familiar with... All of the big paint companies will be around with me and most of us on this board... 

The Aura bashing on this Aura is getting way old... There should be something else we can move on to, to bash...


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

yes, all those stores will be sold back into the Independent Channel. Part of selling to the Independent is succession. Many Independents do not have a plan when they are ready to retire. In order for the channel to survive and service levels maintained, they have to be purchased then sold back to those that want to put their own capital at risk. PPG will likely remain. Competion is good.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NACE said:


> yes, all those stores will be sold back into the Independent Channel. Part of selling to the Independent is succession. Many Independents do not have a plan when they are ready to retire. In order for the channel to survive and service levels maintained, they have to be purchased then sold back to those that want to put their own capital at risk. PPG will likely remain. Competion is good.


I find it hard to believe they will let new owners leave PPG as we do have company PPG stores in Chicago metro as well. The have all ready had some failure with this model as three stores were sold off to a buyer who failed and BM had to re-buy them back... 

And also when they do sell them off to independent they usually have something in the contract that states that they have to have total % of BM products which limits there ability to bring in other manufacturers products... time will tell if this work or not... I have always felt that paint manufacturers should stay out of retail biz...


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> you know accolade hasn't been good in years, Red Seal is much better in my opinion..
> 
> BTW to the OP I never had problems with lap marks with Aura, other BM paint yes, Aura no.


I disagree - as much as like Redseal - Accolade is a superior formulation. And even though they don't advertize it - it has the same self-priming capability as Aura. Everyone downed Accolade, including me, when SW first bought them. When I used the product again a year ago - It reaffirmed my earlier beliefs that P&L makes superior paint. Redseal is just nowhere near as tough as accolade. I spec out Accolade over Aura on every job now. I also use another paint that in my opinion is the same formulation as Aura, under a different paint brand. And it's half the price for the zero VOC's and the same ceramic technology. And the eggshell touches up perfectly!


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> I disagree - as much as like Redseal - Accolade is a superior formulation. And even though they don't advertize it - it has the same self-priming capability as Aura. Everyone downed Accolade, including me, when SW first bought them. When I used the product again a year ago - It reaffirmed my earlier beliefs that P&L makes superior paint. Redseal is just nowhere near as tough as accolade. I spec out Accolade over Aura on every job now. I also use another paint that in my opinion is the same formulation as Aura, under a different paint brand. And it's half the price for the zero VOC's and the same ceramic technology. And the eggshell touches up perfectly!


I find that Accolade is like water and not worth the price.. Around here its pushing 40$.. The other paint your talking about is? Grahams maybe? The porcelain that came out from P&L was garbage if you tried that.

I won't disagree that tho that as a whole P&L has a nice range of products but around here they are going the way of the dodo bird.. hard to find.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> Sooner or later all tints will become water based and while everyone else is playing catch up BM will have all the quirks worked out.


S.W. has been around for 135 years. 
Quirks? 
S.W. creates quirks and solves all of them before noon.
Already they have invented water based technology that surpasses just water based tints.
Get ready, SW is going to prove again why they are at the top of the food chain.



MAK-Deco said:


> The Aura bashing on this Aura is getting way old...


Sorry man, I am a third generation painter that used it in a multi million dollar home of a very particular _regular_ client that requested it. Since Aura was new I figured why not, I like a few BM products.
They bought up the high price* image* and hung on every promise the BM sales guy was force fed by a pamphlet. 1 year later they are unable to see any of those promises from the Aura. It won't touch up even though it is a light color, and washing it is hit and miss.
If I need dark colors to cover in 2 coats I will use Color Accents at half the price, if I need a low V.O.C. paint I will use...aw_ dammit_, Duration...I guess.

In the end I am truly happy you like Aura, you are one of the few that see what many others don't and BM needs more people like you.

...a lot more.

Did I mention a relative through marriage Manages 4 local *Zeke's* which are exclusive BM dealers?
Price is not the issue, providing clear results is.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

WisePainter said:


> In the end I am truly happy you like Aura, you are one of the few that see what many others don't and BM needs more people like you.


Well it sells pretty well here in Chicago I am not only one supporting it..


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Wise

Here you go again - doing the very thing you left CT over. Johnthepainter is the only pot stirrer who has diplomatic immunity here and that is because he was grandfathered in. 

Thought you were turning over a new leaf after the recent feedback?


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Wise
> 
> Here you go again - doing the very thing you left CT over.
> Johnthepainter is the only pot stirrer who has diplomatic immunity here and that is because he was grandfathered in.
> ...


I can see you are going to cash that check over and over again.
I apologized already openly and honestly.

You need to back off cowboy.

:thumbsup:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

I have had no troubles with Aura, and many in my area seem to be having great results also.

Sometimes maybe its the "painter" not "the paint"?


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

It can't be the painter in my case for I use quality brushes and rollers from WalMart.

Nope, can't be me...


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

WisePainter said:


> Already they have invented water based technology that surpasses just water based tints.


and what may this be?

There water borne paint that guys use for trim was one of the worst things I have tried... I think its Pro Classic, I was given a gallon awhile back it didn't compare to Muralo's, Grahms. and even BM WB (which is not my choice for trim wither)


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

WisePainter said:


> I can see you are going to cash that check over and over again.
> I apologized already openly and honestly.
> 
> You need to back off cowboy.
> ...


I guess no true change of character came with those words. 'Nuff said, buckaroo. :cowboy:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

lol, be gone troll.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> and what may this be?
> 
> There water borne paint that guys use for trim was one of the worst things I have tried... I think its Pro Classic, I was given a gallon awhile back it didn't compare to Muralo's, Grahms. and even BM WB (which is not my choice for trim wither)


Sorry man, I would respond but that would give vermontpainter more trolling ammunition.

enjoy your Aura while they still make the stuff.

EDIT: I hate WB ProClassic too, they have not starting selling their new tech WB solutions yet.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I got a call from my brother on Saturday. He and his wife went a visiting the mother. He finally stormed out totally frustrated at what our mother was saying. He hated that he lost his temper at such trivial matters.

Later in the evening the mother calls me and "just happens" to mention the earlier blow up. She admitted she "could have been more tactful"

Here I am, loving both of them and seeing where each was a little less that charitable and where each was correct. Who the hell could I condemn ? Answer? Neither. I supported both with out condoning mistakes made. 

Brother Sandy said he would call and apologise, and Mom said she would admit she could have been more tactful.

Hopefully I was able to help both of them without them hating me for not taking sides.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Each to their own I guess. I have a hard time seeing what is not to like about Aura once the cut in is mastered. 

But, I do not like Duration at all, a very coarse looking and feeling paint. Cashmere is nice, but all the available sheen levels are too shiny for walls. Super paint, no matte finish, only a true flat and shinier stuff, so that will not work.


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

Tried Aura last Summer, Been using almost Exclusively ever since. My customers always love it. It's almost like painting with elmers glue.
I've found 18" roller and 1/2" nap to work best for interior. Some lighter colors may require 2 coats, but most go on with just one good coat. yellows and reds require base coat first for best results. Really doesn't cost more. I wouldn't use it for a blow and go job, but for high end residential it sells well and looks great. Does have a quick dry time. I actually save money on materials and labor with Aura. 
Trim painted with aura semi gloss looks unbelievable.
Cutting with this stuff works best with a Chinex Brush(All I Use). And make sure you have a GOOD 18" Frame. Best I've found are the plastic wooster (Big Ben Frames)that I got from My B.M. Rep. These things are a godsend. $12 Bucks a piece, They lock perfectly, they always roll perfectly and best of all they almost make lap marks obsolete because they disperse the pressure evenly on both ends at all times. No bendy metal frames. Try this and see If this helps.

"BM Should be paying me."


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

The last new house we did we used Aura Eggshell~ the worste house that we have painted in my 17 years. Too bad it took about $3500 in materials to figure that out. Horrible.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

tre painting said:


> Trim painted with aura semi gloss looks unbelievable.


I just did a bunch of trim, doors and bookcases...I couldnt believe how much it leveled out and looks like an oil finish. :thumbsup:


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

premierpainter said:


> The last new house we did we used Aura Eggshell~ the worste house that we have painted in my 17 years. Too bad it took about $3500 in materials to figure that out. Horrible.


what was the problem? easy to say something suck, but an explanation would be nice


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I use it often. For a one guy operation it's nice to be able to cut in a room without having to worry about a wet edge. I also almost always put some XIM extender in it for easier rolling . That stuff is great, like grease for your brush.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> I use it often. For a one guy operation it's nice to be able to cut in a room without having to worry about a wet edge. I also almost always put some XIM extender in it for easier rolling . That stuff is great, like grease for your brush.


you should be careful on the extenders you use for Aura since it doesn't have glycol in it there isn't not a need to add them in it with extenders.. You should use the Aura extender as it is resin based and the same resin that is in Aura.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Just got my first bottle of BM extender and it is nice too. Haven't used it enough to get a good comparison, but the XIM wasn't giving me any problems at all. I don't know if the XIM is a glycol base, but what problems would that cause other than a very tiny increase in VOC? 
And floetrol has just left the building.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Just got my first bottle of BM extender and it is nice too. Haven't used it enough to get a good comparison, but the XIM wasn't giving me any problems at all. I don't know if the XIM is a glycol base, but what problems would that cause other than a very tiny increase in VOC?
> And floetrol has just left the building.


XIM is glycol as well all tho thinner compared to Floetrol. Not sure someone once explained it to me once. I don't think the XIM was bad but the BM was better as it help strenghten the resin.. I think it was NACE who explained it on PT.

Glycol does add voc but can't imagine its much. maybe the glycol reacts with WB tints..


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I would worry that it would mess with the way the tint bonds with the resin. It may work fine and look fine, but could affect durability somehow.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

premierpainter said:


> The last new house we did we used Aura Eggshell~ the worste house that we have painted in my 17 years. Too bad it took about $3500 in materials to figure that out. Horrible.


Learning the hard way suck$.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

tre painting said:


> Tried Aura last Summer, Been using almost Exclusively ever since. My customers always love it. It's almost like painting with elmers glue.


Elmers glue you say? That sounds awesome. I like cutting and rolling with Elmers glue. Just make sure you wait till the glue is COMPLETELY dry on the cut.

Cut a wall and you want to roll it but the cut isn't in it's proper window yet? Too bad, wait until it is.

Cut a wall and part of the wall is dry enough to roll, but part is not yet? Too bad, wait until it is.

Don't forget to buy the special Elmers glue extender and spend time mixing that in. Don't forget to buy the special roller designed just for rolling the Elmers glue.

Don't forget when the Elmers glue starts separating in the pan, to "mix it together in the pan" while you are rolling it.

And it even has a "ceramic finish" when it's done. Does it look like paint? No, it looks like ceramic. Sort of like a faux finish of some kind.

It's Elmers glue all the way for me.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> Elmers glue you say? That sounds awesome. I like cutting and rolling with Elmers glue. Just make sure you wait till the glue is COMPLETELY dry on the cut.


lol, that was my thought exactly when I read that.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

funny cause I don't think its thick at all... It flows right off my brush I guess some guys just know how to paint and some like to complain..


:whistling2:


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

I really don't think it's too thick either. I don't use Aura because it doesn't make sense to pay $55 for a gallon of paint that doesn't cover any better than the Manor Hall I pay $35 a gallon for. In my opinion, it also doesn't look any better. If I need a matte finish, I go with Coronado Ceramagaurd Matte. I was originally told BM Aura would cover any color in one coat. That became apparently false as soon as I went with a dark color. I have nothing else bad to say about the product though. It goes on smooth, looks nice, and I never had a problem with lap marks. I still will use it if I am trying to impress a good client or contractor but as far as a daily paint, too much money for me.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

It sucks to have to pay $50 for a product that you have to mess with with a extender. For $50 a gallon I dont want to play scientist.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

I'm with Neps. Although, I didn't find that I needed an extender. However, I have also never done a large room with it. Small bathrooms and stuff I can paint quick enough to not have to worry about extending dry times.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> It sucks to have to pay $50 for a product that you have to mess with with a extender. For $50 a gallon I dont want to play scientist.


I have never put extender in it to do any size room. I don't use it for trim so I can't say anything towards that. But I do put a little extender in most WB products for trim.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

I am not sure what other painters are doing, but my 1st coat looks like a solid 2nd coat when I am painting deep dark luscious colors...
Even a few customers and GC's have commented on my 1st coat coverage. 

Why charge your clients to apply 4 coats, when you can get it done in 2? 
Trust me, _*every*_ human knows that dark colors may require more than 2 coats...until they see my work.
Talk about creating a buzz in the community.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Wise,

I love your seductive wording.

Deep, Dark, Luscious colors......
Sexy coverage.....

Are we painting or making a naughty film?


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

PinnacleResidential said:


> Wise,
> 
> I love your seductive wording.
> 
> ...


So do the female HO's...


:thumbup:


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Don't talk about women like that!


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

hey now, you added the "_sexy_" part!


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I rarely add extender. I brushed out a 3x3 windowed door with two panels on the bottom half with out extender and it went on great.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> funny cause I don't think its thick at all... It flows right off my brush I guess some guys just know how to paint and some like to complain..
> 
> 
> :whistling2:



I didn't say Aura was too thick. Did someone else say it was too thick?

Mak Deco is making stuff up again. 

I wonder if this is the same method of comprehension he uses to determine how well Aura applies?

:yes:


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> I didn't say Aura was too thick. Did someone else say it was too thick?
> 
> Mak Deco is making stuff up again.
> 
> ...


well when you refer to something is like glue I guess I think glue is "thick"


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

I think SuperPaint is thick. Drags my brush like crazy, but the coverage is amazing!


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

Sorry, bad comparison. 
Not too thick. Just Right.
Doesn't anyone get a contactor discount?
Sounds like retail pricing.
I wouldnt pay that much for it either.
That's pretty much all I use. I don't use extender and it gets me referrals.
Increased profits since my switch.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

tre painting said:


> I don't use extender and it gets me referrals.


Not using extender causes people to give your name out to their friends and neighbors? Never thought of a connection between those two things.


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

I knew someone would say that.


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

long week


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

Sorry, bad comparison. 
Not too thick. Just Right. *I don't use extender.
*Doesn't anyone get a contactor discount?
Sounds like retail pricing.
I wouldnt pay that much for it either.
That's pretty much all I use. I don't use extender and it gets me referrals.
Increased profits since my switch.
Doesn't anyone get a contactor discount?
Sounds like retail pricing.
I wouldnt pay that much for it either.
That's pretty much all I use. and it gets me referrals.
Increased profits since my switch.

FIXED


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

tre painting said:


> I don't use extender and it gets me referrals.
> FIXED


Not using extender causes people to give your name out to their friends and neighbors? Never thought of a connection between those two things.


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

Has anyone tried the new Aura-Bath & Spa?
It is a matte finish for moist areas.
Trying it out tomorrow.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> It sucks to have to pay $50 for a product that you have to mess with with a extender. For $50 a gallon I dont want to play scientist.


exactly! For so much money, I think the product should be close to flawless....is it? Hell no. I could write an entire book about Aura. It definitely has its good points though, depending on what is on the substrate before the Aura goes on and what finish/color. Example: don't ever apply Aura over SuperSpec flat, it will release the colorant in the SuperSpec and make a huge old clumpy mess. That's just 1 of many cons...

-jt


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

ParagonVA said:


> Example: don't ever apply Aura over SuperSpec flat, it will release the colorant in the SuperSpec and make a huge old clumpy mess.
> -jt


:blink:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> don't ever apply Aura over SuperSpec flat, it will release the colorant in the SuperSpec and make a huge old clumpy mess. That's just 1 of many cons...
> -jt


1 is enough for me, I cannot risk issues.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Im with Dean on that.... its 1/2. Really tho - you can make a 3/4 look like it was done with a 3/8. Its all technique, consistency and balancing the load. 1/4"? huh... I couldn't imagine that experience you had Lauren.



I have not read the whole thread but this is bull. A 3/4 compared to a 3/8 is a world of difference for a pro finish on a smooth surface. They make different lenghth naps because they matter. JP, if you are only rolling surfaces that absorb all or most of the material you are rolling, and have a textured surface, don't even compare a 3/4 to a 3/8. Sealed smooth surfaces need a 3/8 napp with any paint, and I have already heard the 1/2" napp looks the same as a 3/8 before, so save it. On a smooth surface that has been previously sealed and painted, a quality napp with a 3/8 finish is required for a quality finish.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> :blink:





WisePainter said:


> 1 is enough for me, I cannot risk issues.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

painttofish said:


> I have not read the whole thread but this is bull. A 3/4 compared to a 3/8 is a world of difference for a pro finish on a smooth surface. They make different lenghth naps because.they matter. JP, if you are only rolling surfaces that absorb all or most of the material you are rolling, and have a textured surface, don't even compare a 3/4 to a 3/8. Sealed smooth surfaces need a 3/8 napp with any paint, and I have already heard the 1/2" napp looks the same as a 3/8 before, so save it. On a smooth surface that has been previously sealed and painted, a quality napp with a 3/8 finish is required for a quality finish.


I think JP was making a point. He was telling Lauren that 1/4 nap is way too small and was causing her(his) problems.

I am quite sure JP was not saying that he uses a 3/4 nap where others would use a 3/8s.

A brand new 1/2 wooster superfab is so springy, that it really is much like rolling with a 3/8s. 

It is definitely possible to roll 1/2 and make it look like a 3/8s, it is just a different skill.

However WHICH brand/model 1/2 makes a HUGE difference. Some are much more "clumpy" than others.

I prefer 3/8 for kitchens and bathrooms, and I feel like the laying off portion of the rolling process is much quicker and easier.

But if you get into a wide open area, and you are having trouble keeping a wet edge, especially with some retarded paint that is all sticky and rubbery like AURA. :whistling2:, then you need to start putting more product on faster.

1/2 can do this better than 3/8s.

So when you are referring to a "quality" finish, a HUGE part of this is keeping a wet edge. If you don't keep a wet edge, the lap marks will look FAR more severe than a slightly larger nap profile.

For a "quality" finish, keeping a wet edge is critical, and a 1/2 inch nap does this better than a 3/8s.

So there are times when the 1/2 will definitely provide a more quality finish than a 3/8s.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I'm staying out of this.  Maybe some day I will make a new post for some side by side photos for comparison.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I like me a good 1/2 nap roller. smooth walls I use white doves in a 3/8th but otherwise 1/2 is the perfect blend of efficiency, performance, and finish.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Orange peel 3/4 smooth 1/2, why go smaller, your not painting a door.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

MAK-Deco said:


> :blink:


that's a very understandable face there, as it is exactly the same one I made while having the problem with Aura that day. You should have seen these walls, you would've been making the same face. I was w/ a co-worker and we both were so pissed. I had to sand like hell and apply Regal flat...and had no problems whatsoever on the rest of the area.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

johnpaint said:


> Orange peel 3/4 smooth 1/2, why go smaller, your not painting a door.



Try rolling smooth paneling or a plaster wall. Kinda like a door.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I think he was talking about new primed drywall. My take on that is, your not going to be able load very much paint on a 1/4-1/3 nap roller, also your going to have to put at least two coats on the walls anyway.You might as well do it a little faster.If you flow the paint out nice level and even, you will not be able to tell what roller you used when done anyway.I just don't want to spend all day on one room.


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

I always use 3/4" . *Never* get orange peel. I do get a beautiful finish in a fraction of the time. I don't understand why everyone finds *Aura *more difficult to use? I had a guy on one of my crews bitchin about how Aura sucked because it left too many lap marks. He was right. Too many lap marks, But I'm afraid it wasn't the paint that was causing the problem. 
Hands Down, the best paint on the market. It is also a great marketing tool. I get clients that ask me about this stuff all of the time. I set myself apart from the average joe by using this stuff. Also hopefully will keep my employees from becoming semi-retarded by the time they are 40 from breathing in paint fumes all their life. I can't stand the smell of regal anymore. I've gotten just as good a result with that good for nothin home cheapo brand as with regal. 

This thread reminds me of "Green Eggs and Ham"


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## tre painting (Sep 28, 2008)

Ya' just have to try some new things. Totally different techniques when using a 3/4".


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## RC_Quality_Painting (Jun 15, 2009)

Hi all,

New here and glad to have been referred here by a friend of mine who is listed as well.

Aura Paint and my thoughts - Well being a Duron man for 8+ years using their top of the line trim paint I must say I have finally used the Aura Trim Paint last week and am very very much impressed with the way it lays down and the coverage. I must say if the Wall paint is anything like the trim paint I am for sure going to go with the Aura Paint from here on out, especially with the higher end customers.

Thanks for everyone's input on this paint


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

3/8is a safe way to go i tryed 1/2 had the same problem had to pole sand to striegthten it out


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

get a polar bear. They roll like a 1" for paint release, but are as fast and leave as little stipple as a 3/8th. They use them for metallics and the like to get a nice smooth surface. I used one on a smooth wall and didn't want to set it down. I could get a whole wall 10x12 on two loads. I think I could have made it with one if I used the JP method of dunking the thing but then shaking the extra off at the wall. I was using aura eggshell with extender.


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## jmda (Nov 14, 2007)

Have not read the entire thread, but have a lot of experience with Aura and thought I would share. If it is redundant I apologize. I still love Aura but I use it more as a sales tool and not for every circumstance. Aura has one main strength - great coverage especially with reds.

Aura takes some getting used to - plain and simple.

Aura Matte has quite a bit of angular sheen, so roller marks are difficult if not impossible to avoid on large walls with a light source (window) at the end. I have had several problems with Aura on walls like this.

My preferred roller nap with Aura 1/2" ProDooZ or White Dove.

Aura drys quickly, so if the air is dry or really hot, than either add water or the Aura extender. Floetrol does not work with Aura.


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## The Paint Doctor (Jun 1, 2010)

The only painters who ever have problems with Aura are those who do not know how to use it.


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## LOSTinDETAILS (Jun 17, 2009)

Great first post! How about an intro?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I've only used a comped interior aura a few years back, wasn't that impressed. I don't think I'll ever use aura ext, just saying. Seems more of a hassle then it is worth. I'll stick with Moorguard/Moorlife, I know that stuff works great and looks great. Then again, I don't do much NC ext. If I did, I might consider it more.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

The Paint Doctor said:


> The only painters who ever have problems with Aura are those who do not know how to use it.


please let us peasants in on the secret.:whistling2:


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> please let us peasants in on the secret.:whistling2:


Hmmmm I guess I can tell......Ok shhhhhh ready.....when you start rolling a wall, dont stop. 

Have a potty break, and a smoke break, before you start :jester:


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## Lornmastro (May 7, 2007)

I agree with jmda. Wouldn't use aura for all situations but on Dark colors especially reds the coverage can not be beat. A little trickier to use but if I can cut down my coats from 4 to 2 will use it in a heartbeat. What makes me laugh about this thread is everyone else is still talking about Lauren and her issue with aura...AND LAUREN HAS NEVER RESPONDED AND LET US KNOW HOW HER 3/8" ROLLER WORKED!! I THINK THE THREAD WAS STARTED IN MARCH.


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## The Paint Doctor (Jun 1, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> please let us peasants in on the secret.:whistling2:


Its really not that hard to work with, you just don't waste time painting with the "W" affect and stretching it out from that, you just cut in all of the cut in areas, then let dry, just an hour with most Aura, then start rolling up and down. I have taken Aura Matte around nearly the whole interior now and its so awesome. It smooths out so much nicer than ANY latex paint I've ever used. Nothing compares to it unless you want to use oil on the walls.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

The Paint Doctor said:


> The only painters who ever have problems with Aura are those who do not know how to use it.


The same thing with ProClassic (SW).

Unfortunately every product has a learning curve and some are more stressing than others.


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## The Paint Doctor (Jun 1, 2010)

jmda said:


> My preferred roller nap with Aura 1/2" ProDooZ or White Dove.


The Aura roller cover is not the ProDooZ, the ProDooZ is the same as the other private labeled BM White cover. The Purdy white dove is not recommended either. The only cover anyone should ever use is the Aura cover itself. Be careful though, the tendency for painters is to use the highest nap availible on a finish, but trust me, the 3/8 Aura cover holds plenty of paint and sometimes the 1/2 holds too much Aura because of its flow and leveling characteristics. All other covers are not made to handle the quick dry.


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## The Paint Doctor (Jun 1, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> The same thing with ProClassic (SW).
> 
> Unfortunately every product has a learning curve and some are more stressing than others.


Which ProClassic? the oil is as good as anybody's oil, but the latex isn't bad. Its not very durable, but it can look good when sprayed.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Just tried a 5/16" microfiber with the Aura Matte..........unreal good.....totally impressed even though its not BM's cover of choice for Aura. When you start to cut the room, load that cover with paint and let it sit, takes awhile to absorb the paint properly.


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## tomato head (11 mo ago)

vermontpainter said:


> Not using extender causes people to give your name out to their friends and neighbors? Never thought of a connection between those two things.


lmao. Right....


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## tomato head (11 mo ago)

WisePainter said:


> I am not sure what other painters are doing, but my 1st coat looks like a solid 2nd coat when I am painting deep dark luscious colors...
> Even a few customers and GC's have commented on my 1st coat coverage.
> 
> Why charge your clients to apply 4 coats, when you can get it done in 2?
> ...


WHO needs to apply FOUR coats to cover ANYTHING? omg..


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