# Benjamin Moore Aura cut-in application (Bath & Spa)



## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

I've heard from many painters on here that the proper application method for Aura paint is to let the cut-ins dry before rolling. My process has always been to try to keep a wet edge on the cut-ins so that everything blends together, and because my process involves: (1) cut-in, (2) 4 inch roll the cut-in, (3) roll the wall/ceiling, I'm scrambling to keep it from drying.

My question is for those of you that recommend letting the cut-ins dry before rolling, do you also let your 4-in roll border dry before rolling the main wall, or would your 4 inch perimeter roll be part of your rolling process after you let the brush cut-in dry? I want to try out this method with a bathroom using Aura Bath and Spa.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

What's the purpose of using the 4" roller over your cut? I think you can probably skip that step and it will be fine. I don't know a single person who does that around here anyway


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> What's the purpose of using the 4" roller over your cut? I think you can probably skip that step and it will be fine. I don't know a single person who does that around here anyway


Supposedly reducing brush marks by leaving the same texture as your main roller sleeve as you can get in closer. I've never done it before, but I'm pretty sure I've seen several guys on here posting about it being a thing. Personally, I don't have the time to wait for yet another round of cutting in a wall with a weenie roller to dry before rolling out the field of a wall.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

We usually have one guy "cut and mini-roll the perimeter", and another guy "roll out the middle with a big roller". Its an easy way to keep a wet edge, working one wall at a time. The mini roller could probably be skipped, but it ensures the big roller doesn't have to get too close to the ceiling (and might help with hat-banding and brush marks).


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## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> What's the purpose of using the 4" roller over your cut? I think you can probably skip that step and it will be fine. I don't know a single person who does that around here anyway


As others mentioned above, it helps blend the cut-in with the main roller mark, allows for a more precise cut-in brush so you don't have to grow the brush stroke far enough to allow the large format roller to connect the cut-in, and also helps with things like vaulted ceilings and acute angle wall connections in which a roller would not be able to get very close at all due to the perpendicular wall.

To bring this thread back to the original question, does anyone have insight with Aura specifically about letting the cut in mini roller dry as well, or is it better to keep a wet edge on the mini roller? Letting it dry would be great if it's actually beneficial. I've seen many people say that letting the cut-in dry is the ideal method for Aura, but no mention if that's just the brush or the mini roller as well. 

I'd also be curious as to why this is the preferred method for Aura when it's not for other paints.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

grayscale said:


> As others mentioned above, it helps blend the cut-in with the main roller mark, allows for a more precise cut-in brush so you don't have to grow the brush stroke far enough to allow the large format roller to connect the cut-in, and also helps with things like vaulted ceilings and acute angle wall connections in which a roller would not be able to get very close at all due to the perpendicular wall.
> 
> To bring this thread back to the original question, does anyone have insight with Aura specifically about letting the cut in mini roller dry as well, or is it better to keep a wet edge on the mini roller? Letting it dry would be great if it's actually beneficial. I've seen many people say that letting the cut-in dry is the ideal method for Aura, but no mention if that's just the brush or the mini roller as well.
> 
> *I'd also be curious as to why this is the preferred method for Aura when it's not for other paints.*


Actually it is my preferred method for pretty much all BM paints in fact I've never used or prescribed them to be used any different and never had an issue doing it that way.

With BM seemingly moving back to non zero VOC paint products that may change in the future.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Actually it is my preferred method for pretty much all BM paints in fact I've never used or prescribed them to be used any different and never had an issue doing it that way.
> 
> With BM seemingly moving back to non zero VOC paint products that may change in the future.


Yeah, I abandoned the “keep a wet edge” method for wall paints years ago. My preferred wall paint is Regal eggshell and I’ve never had an issue with lap marks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Add me to the list of brush cutting only, dry cuts before roll, and regardless of paint. If it's water based, I'm letting the cuts dry.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

To the op. I have used two gallons of the aura bath and spa. Both just in a 1b tinted to white. Covered excellent (2 coats over a beige) and finished by letting the cut in dry fully. I use fans to dry my work so it doesn’t take too long to wait.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

This whole thread seems backwards. Is it April 1st still?


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Masterwork said:


> This whole thread seems backwards. Is it April 1st still?


.siht ekil kool dluow ti sdrawkcab saw ti fI.

It made my brain swim just trying to make that happen. Odd how deeply brain-ingrained left to right reading is. I obviously never did anything with Hebrew.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

the first time I used Aura I pretty much let the cut in dry kinda just because I cut the whole room in before I started rolling it

At that I didnt let it dry enough because what was dry ish re wet when I rolled over it causing sags

The 2nd time I used it was years later at a Customers request because she had bought some prior to me doing this room for her

It was old wood paneling and I primed it with shellac so thered be no bleed out,well my brain bled from all the frustration of using that Aura on those walls

It was setting up as I rolled and roping up all over the place,I dont think it liked the Shellac,I ended up having to wet sand the rope all over that room and buying another gallon and taping and spraying that crap

I will never use that stuff again,to me it's overpriced horse sh_t . At what they charge for it that stuff should at least cooperate,not be a paint in the ass that it is


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I have found the sagging issue with Aura interior after rolling walls and believing it would turn out like normal painted walls... 
Also with Aura, I found success in cutting in top of walls by brush and 4" rolling cut-ins, feathering it out. Letting the feathered out cut-ins dry is needed unless you apply super super thin. 
** However, I haven't had that issue with Aura Bath and Spa... just haven't had it sag. Maybe it's different but I can tell you that stuff has good adhesion.

For those that haven't 4" mini rolled your cut-ins or taped and mini rolled... yes it's extremely effective and fast and a much more consistent finish and texture than brushing alone. The method is great against taped off trim, and inside corners of walls etc, without using a brush.


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## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

ridesarize said:


> The method is great against taped off trim, *and inside corners of walls* etc, *without using a brush*.


How does that work?


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

The keeping a wet edge thing went out the window about 35 years ago when we stopped using oil paints for wall application.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

To the OP: letting it dry before painting is the same whether brushing or rolling, so either keep it wet or let it dry, but don't roll it tacky.

As an aside, I fully agree with @ridesarize and I'm surprised more people don't use the the mini-roll method, but I just realized we're probably painting a lot more textured walls than many here. In the Pacific Northwest, walls are primarily orange peel with knockdown or brocade ceilings. For textured surfaces, I don't think anyone could convince me that brushing alone is more efficient. We cut in with deuces and use the brush with a mini-roller, so it's done at the same time. Make the cut, roll & feather out. 2-3 dips of the brush for the tight cut takes care of everything within reach, roll it immediately to carry the paint further. Takes 10 seconds at most to carry the paint 5" from the cut when it would take at least double or triple with the brush. IMO, it lessens the risk of hat-banding because you're not having to take your big roller right to the edge every time. Also lessens the risk of holidays since you'd be rolling with your big roller back into areas that you feathered out with your small roller. All those areas that are too small to fit a normal roller in leaves you brush guys spending over a minute on what a mini roller can do in a few seconds. Interior corners, same thing. Next to angled/vaulted ceilings, same. Around trim, same. Using the same nap & cover type on your mini and your main roller prevents issues with the finished look. *Again, I'm more referring to textured walls vs. smooth.* For smooth surfaces which have been adequately sealed, I know that a brush alone could be extremely efficient for cut-in without the need for the mini-roller.

As painters, we tend to get stuck in our ways and focus our efforts on improving the way "we've always used" vs. searching for a more efficient way to get to the finish line. I know I'm just as guilty as anyone.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

ridesarize said:


> I have found the sagging issue with Aura interior after rolling walls and believing it would turn out like normal painted walls...
> Also with Aura, I found success in cutting in top of walls by brush and 4" rolling cut-ins, feathering it out. Letting the feathered out cut-ins dry is needed unless you apply super super thin.
> ** However, I haven't had that issue with Aura Bath and Spa... just haven't had it sag. Maybe it's different but I can tell you that stuff has good adhesion.
> 
> For those that haven't 4" mini rolled your cut-ins or taped and mini rolled... yes it's extremely effective and fast and a much more consistent finish and texture than brushing alone. The method is great against taped off trim, and inside corners of walls etc, without using a brush.


"sagging" and "open time" are some of the updates coming to the reformulated aura as well as better hide in off whites and no longer being a zero voc product. My understanding is it will have some scuffx technology as well. I've heard its more friendly to work with, but havn't had a chance to use it my self.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

grayscale said:


> How does that work?


It works awesome. 1.5" blue tape over trimwork, or if you wanted to tape an accent wall color to make an inside corner transition (cut-in)... with experience of how to avoid tape bleeds and other stuff, it works awesome.


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## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> *Again, I'm more referring to textured walls vs. smooth.* For smooth surfaces which have been adequately sealed, I know that a brush alone could be extremely efficient for cut-in without the need for the mini-roller.


Thanks for that distinction. I'm working with smooth walls. I'm not clear on how this matters, however. Other than maybe textured walls benefiting even more. Most of the benefits you gave for the mini roller seem to apply regardless of surface, do they not?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

grayscale said:


> Thanks for that distinction. I'm working with smooth walls. I'm not clear on how this matters, however. Other than maybe textured walls benefiting even more. Most of the benefits you gave for the mini roller seem to apply regardless of surface, do they not?


Textured surfaces require a lot more application of product and working in of that product, and since a loaded mini roller goes about 5-7 times further on a textured surface than a loaded brush, a roller is gonna be far more efficient. Smooth surfaces that have been sealed well can be painted efficiently either way, although one could argue that a roller could speed up the process...at least in areas where a lot of cutting is required, (bathrooms, hallways, kitchens, etc).


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

I've found Bath and Spa overall to be a better leveling product compared to Aura or even Regal. I think you could treat Bath and Spa normally and roll wet into wet, the open time for Bath and Spa is a lot better than Aura and Regal. Even Regal I tend to roll wet into wet and am fine usually. 

I've heard of some people even trying Bath and Spa for whole houses, bedrooms, etc, due to the leveling and open time being better and it being easier to work with than normal Aura.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

@celicaxx 
oh, yeah!!


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## jmfamp (Sep 17, 2018)

If it's Aura, there will not be a texture...brush or otherwise. Additionally, if you try and maintain a wet edge with Aura, you'll be seriously unhappy...dries seriously fast, then will pick up on your roller...messy and very time consuming to fix.


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## jmfamp (Sep 17, 2018)

For many of those listing problems using Aura 'like I've always done it', RTFM. It is different, requires different methods and the instructions are crystal clear. Always read the label...you might even learn something.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

jmfamp said:


> For many of those listing problems using Aura 'like I've always done it', RTFM. It is different, requires different methods and the instructions are crystal clear. Always read the label...you might even learn something.


Gee. Thanks for the expertise. Hang around for another 2 posts to make sure to remind everyone to RTFM. Dope slap! I didn't realize that this was the whole secret to painting.

In any case, @jmfamp, I have no idea where in this thread you saw people confused about using Aura. People here pretty much KWTF they're doing. But I'll go ahead and RTFM from now on. Thanks for the advice.

(Sorry. I just have these bad reactions for people showing up calling everyone stupid. But at least I know know I'm stupid so I'll just go ahead and RTFM from now on. So that maybe I know whatever the product is contains substances known by the state of California to cause cancer).


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## jmfamp (Sep 17, 2018)

Joe67 said:


> Gee. Thanks for the expertise. Hang around for another 2 posts to make sure to remind everyone to RTFM. Dope slap! I didn't realize that this was the whole secret to painting.
> 
> In any case, @jmfamp, I have no idea where in this thread you saw people confused about using Aura. People here pretty much KWTF they're doing. But I'll go ahead and RTFM from now on. Thanks for the advice.
> 
> (Sorry. I just have these bad reactions for people showing up calling everyone stupid. But at least I know know I'm stupid so I'll just go ahead and RTFM from now on. So that maybe I know whatever the product is contains substances known by the state of California to cause cancer).


Sorry...tender subject. I've beat my head against the wall trying to get painters to read labels. "Been doing it this way for twenty years". And sometimes it is really important...like with Aura, which I love. Great product and probably the only really innovative new paint line in the last twenty years or so. HUGE investment for Ben Moore (and everyone of their dealers, as it take an entirely new pigment system) and they can't get painters to use it correctly.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

jmfamp said:


> Sorry...tender subject. I've beat my head against the wall trying to get painters to read labels. "Been doing it this way for twenty years". And sometimes it is really important...like with Aura, which I love. Great product and probably the only really innovative new paint line in the last twenty years or so. HUGE investment for Ben Moore (and everyone of their dealers, as it take an entirely new pigment system) and they can't get painters to use it correctly.


I feel you. Tho I've mostly ever only had that problem with my GC if he has other guys on paint related tasks, rather than other painters. "Can they this...?" "How long before that...?" I'm like, "IDK, what's it say on the label."

Aura is a great paint. I don't use it much just because I find most people want to land more in the $40/gal range, so I'm normally in Regal - which I also like, so fine by me.


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## Respec (Sep 13, 2015)

When Regal Select came out years ago, the first coat of the first room I did with it looked crappy at the cut lines because I was trying to keep a wet edge and was near impossible. You were always at the just setting up faze and it would chunk up. I read somewhere, I believe on the Ben Moore site, to let the cuts dry, then roll the walls. That worked like a charm. I have been doing it that way ever since. Aura works the same way


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Respec said:


> When Regal Select came out years ago, the first coat of the first room I did with it looked crappy at the cut lines because I was trying to keep a wet edge and was near impossible. You were always at the just setting up faze and it would chunk up. I read somewhere, I believe on the Ben Moore site, to let the cuts dry, then roll the walls. That worked like a charm. I have been doing it that way ever since. Aura works the same way


Yeah, I was "raised" on putting it all on wet. When alone I always did one wall at a time (except in flats, where I didn't worry about it so much). Then I had a hiatus of several years where I didn't do any painting. Then I came back into it and everything had changed - in particular the insanely fast set-up times. So I was getting all of the picture framing and whatnot. Guess where I learned the "let the cuts dry"? PaintTalk. (Long before I even joined).


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Joe67 said:


> Yeah, I was "raised" on putting it all on wet. When alone I always did one wall at a time (except in flats, where I didn't worry about it so much). Then I had a hiatus of several years where I didn't do any painting. Then I came back into it and everything had changed - in particular the insanely fast set-up times. So I was getting all of the picture framing and whatnot. Guess where I learned the "let the cuts dry"? PaintTalk. (Long before I even joined).


Interestingly it seems the manufacturers went too far with the fast drying and now their scaling it back.


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## Ricks Painting (May 2, 2020)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> "sagging" and "open time" are some of the updates coming to the reformulated aura as well as better hide in off whites and no longer being a zero voc product. My understanding is it will have some scuffx technology as well. I've heard its more friendly to work with, but havn't had a chance to use it my self.


first time hearing about this. ill have to ask the rep when my store will get it or do all stores have the new formula now?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Ricks Painting said:


> first time hearing about this. ill have to ask the rep when my store will get it or do all stores have the new formula now?


Pushed back to maybe Q3 this year due to raw materials shortages. Will come with a new label and new product number N52x


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## bluegrassdan (May 8, 2015)

Bottom line. BM paints dry too fast except maybe Regal.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

bluegrassdan said:


> Bottom line. BM paints dry too fast except maybe Regal.


@cocomonkeynuts has been saying that new formulae are all in the process of being rolled out to lessen that issue.

I'll likely still be letting all of my cuts dry before rolling though.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

grayscale said:


> I've heard from many painters on here that the proper application method for Aura paint is to let the cut-ins dry before rolling. My process has always been to try to keep a wet edge on the cut-ins so that everything blends together, and because my process involves: (1) cut-in, (2) 4 inch roll the cut-in, (3) roll the wall/ceiling, I'm scrambling to keep it from drying.
> 
> My question is for those of you that recommend letting the cut-ins dry before rolling, do you also let your 4-in roll border dry before rolling the main wall, or would your 4 inch perimeter roll be part of your rolling process after you let the brush cut-in dry? I want to try out this method with a bathroom using Aura Bath and Spa.


I wonder how many people actually look that hard to see if there is a demarcation line between brushed cut-ins and roller stipple.

Here is how I have rolled Aura. First I cut in using a nice smooth brush to leave as few brush marks as possible, 2" away from the ceiling and 1" away from walls. 

Next I take my Wooster Sherlock roller handle and stick a plastic self-stick button on the end, the kind you would stick on the bottom of a chair or table leg to help them slide over hard floors. 

I use a Wooster Micro Plush 5/16" roller sleave. First I wet the sleave, then spin the water out. Next I hand brush the fibers towards each end and trim each end at a 45 degree angle with a small pair of curved scissors (Fiskars makes them) to help avoid squeezing out any ropes of paint close to the brushed cut-ins. Let the cut-ins dry. By the time you finish cutting in a room you should be able to start rolling where you started cutting in.

When you load the roller up, take care not to cover the plastic button with any paint. If this happens, use your fingers to wipe the paint off the button and onto your next Jackson Pollak shirt.

When rolling next to the ceiling take the roller handle off the extension pole and use it perpendicular to the ceiling, taking care to use even pressure to avoid squeezing paint out next to the ceiling where it will be difficult to smooth out. Doing the above should allow you to get an even stipple onto the walls within 1/2" or so of the ceiling and about the same next to wall corners. That should be good enough for anyone..........except the GC I work for at some Chicago high rises. :O

Practice makes perfect. 

futtyos


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## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

futtyos said:


> I wonder how many people actually look that hard to see if there is a demarcation line between brushed cut-ins and roller stipple.
> 
> Here is how I have rolled Aura. First I cut in using a nice smooth brush to leave as few brush marks as possible, 2" away from the ceiling and 1" away from walls.
> 
> ...


I appreciate you sharing that. You sound like minded - detailed and sweating the small stuff.

I like the idea of a standoff at the end of the mini roller. What plastic self-stick button do you use? I'm assuming you would need something with a soft material to not mark the perpendicular wall that likely was painted the same or previous day (not fully cured).

Trimming the edges of the roller makes a lot of sense for this application. I'm guessing I'd still get paint on the end of the roller. I guess it's a matter of finding the right roller bucket for the 4 inch microplush.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

grayscale said:


> I appreciate you sharing that. You sound like minded - detailed and sweating the small stuff.
> 
> I like the idea of a standoff at the end of the mini roller. What plastic self-stick button do you use? I'm assuming you would need something with a soft material to not mark the perpendicular wall that likely was painted the same or previous day (not fully cured).
> 
> Trimming the edges of the roller makes a lot of sense for this application. I'm guessing I'd still get paint on the end of the roller. I guess it's a matter of finding the right roller bucket for the 4 inch microplush.











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futtyos


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## Torontoscottishpainter (Mar 2, 2021)

When letting the cut dry before rolling is it best to use a small 4 inch roller to feather out the cut or do you just simply do a cut and let it dry then roll?
I really don't like using a whizz roller to feather out cuts but sometimes its needed. Slows down the whole process and hard to get into a good glow if you're going back to roll out cuts with a whizz.

Edit - I tried doing a long stairs case wall after a reccommdention on here . Doing a 2 inch cut with Regal matt and then rolling a few hours later. The results were good.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

grayscale said:


> I appreciate you sharing that. You sound like minded - detailed and sweating the small stuff.
> 
> I like the idea of a standoff at the end of the mini roller. What plastic self-stick button do you use? I'm assuming you would need something with a soft material to not mark the perpendicular wall that likely was painted the same or previous day (not fully cured).
> 
> Trimming the edges of the roller makes a lot of sense for this application. I'm guessing I'd still get paint on the end of the roller. I guess it's a matter of finding the right roller bucket for the 4 inch microplush.


Sorry I did not completely read through this post when I replied about plastic self-stick sliders. I should have clarified when I use these. Most 4" and 6" mini rollers have these little plastic ends built into the roller sleave itself so there is no need to intall one. Nine inch roller sleaves and handles do not have this feature so I install self stick sliders to the ends of Wooster Sherlock 9" and 14" roller handles which keeps the end of the roller sleave fibers almost a 1/4" away from any adjascent surface you are trying to keep paint off of. 

The reason for trimming the ends of the roller covers with curved scissors is 2-fold. One, it helps reduce leaving paints lines from squeezing out the end of the roller sleave and onto the surface you are rolling paint onto. This can come in very handy when rolling porous surfaces that quickly suck the water out of the paint and into the ceiling or wall. When you go back to "roll" them out it is sometimes too late and the rope is now set and must be sanded down or razor bladed off after the paint has dried I had been doing this for years on my own when I read Brian Havanas saying the same thing here on PT. (This also brings up a critical reason for using Gardz before rolling paint onto a very porous surface such as a ceiling that gets a lot of reflective light. I have rolled skim coated ceilings that have been properly Gardz'd where the paint is still wet where I started when I have finished rolling the whole ceiling! THis obviously makes it much easier to roll out paint-rope lines as the paint is still wet and workable.)

Secondly, trimming the edge of the roller sleave reduces the length of roller fibers extending out from the end of the roller sleave - possibly further than the plastic button stuck on the end of the roller frame and getting paint where you don't want it. I will trim the edges of the roller sleave before starting to roll, then after a wall or two I will trim it again as by this time the fibers have been pushed out enough where I can trim off another 1/4" or so, giving me less of a chance to leave paint ropes or getting paint onto an adjascent surface where it is not wanted, such as getting wall paint onto a ceiling.

Hope this helps,

futtyos


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## grayscale (May 9, 2018)

futtyos said:


> Sorry I did not completely read through this post when I replied about plastic self-stick sliders. I should have clarified when I use these. Most 4" and 6" mini rollers have these little plastic ends built into the roller sleave itself so there is no need to intall one. Nine inch roller sleaves and handles do not have this feature so I install self stick sliders to the ends of Wooster Sherlock 9" and 14" roller handles which keeps the end of the roller sleave fibers almost a 1/4" away from any adjascent surface you are trying to keep paint off of.
> 
> The reason for trimming the ends of the roller covers with curved scissors is 2-fold. One, it helps reduce leaving paints lines from squeezing out the end of the roller sleave and onto the surface you are rolling paint onto. This can come in very handy when rolling porous surfaces that quickly suck the water out of the paint and into the ceiling or wall. When you go back to "roll" them out it is sometimes too late and the rope is now set and must be sanded down or razor bladed off after the paint has dried I had been doing this for years on my own when I read Brian Havanas saying the same thing here on PT. (This also brings up a critical reason for using Gardz before rolling paint onto a very porous surface such as a ceiling that gets a lot of reflective light. I have rolled skim coated ceilings that have been properly Gardz'd where the paint is still wet where I started when I have finished rolling the whole ceiling! THis obviously makes it much easier to roll out paint-rope lines as the paint is still wet and workable.)
> 
> ...


Everything makes sense there. I follow the logic.

I'm assuming you trim both your 9"+ roller covers and your 4"/6" roller covers? Those discs make more sense now that I see you only use them on the 9"+ rollers. That said, I would still be leery of having them drag across a perpendicular wall that was recently painted and dried, but uncured. I suppose the goal is to not have them touch, and they are there merely as a backup in case the roller gets too close.


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

grayscale said:


> Everything makes sense there. I follow the logic.
> 
> I'm assuming you trim both your 9"+ roller covers and your 4"/6" roller covers? Those discs make more sense now that I see you only use them on the 9"+ rollers. That said, I would still be leery of having them drag across a perpendicular wall that was recently painted and dried, but uncured. I suppose the goal is to not have them touch, and they are there merely as a backup in case the roller gets too close.


I was leary too, until I tried it. You do have to wait until the opposing surface is dry to the touch...and a bit more would help. When you go to roll a surface with the tip of the roller (whether you are using a mini roller with a plastic tip already or a 9" with a self stick button, you need to examine the plastic tip to see if you have loaded any paint onto it, which you must quickly wipe off before rolling. Take the paint that is now on the tip of your finger and wipe it onto your fresh, clean white painters t-shirt to start your new Jackson Pollack project. 

futtyos


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