# Oil Modified Polyurethane



## ROOMINADAY

I have just picked up a can of Minxwax (don't bug me it's all we got) Oil-Modified Polyurethane. 

It is a WB version of the oil based. Low Odour, fast drying, water clean up....

Just wondering if anyone has tried it? MSDS is still pretty nasty!

I have an oak Tabletop to coat so I will post some results in a few days.


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## straight_lines

Never used it but look forward to your opinion. I don't think minwax poly totally sucks.


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## ROOMINADAY

I called their tech line to see of you can use a sanding sealer and they said only one type their "professional" series...which I can't get here!


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## WisePainter

For production, and ease of product availability Minwax works well for me.

I've seen it, but haven't used it.

looking forward to hearing the results.


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## BrushJockey

I had a thread earlier about refinishing some paneling. I'm going to use the Zar modified WB oil (MAX)as a first coat because it will still bring out the grain like an oil, and then top with Target EM2000 Mod WB varnish in flat for the sheen. 
I was impressed with a few samples I did with the Zar. Don't know how that compares to the minwax, but the mods seem to be the direction WB clears are headed.


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## CliffK

BrushJockey said:


> I had a thread earlier about refinishing some paneling. I'm going to use the Zar modified WB oil (MAX)as a first coat because it will still bring out the grain like an oil, and then top with Target EM2000 Mod WB varnish in flat for the sheen.
> I was impressed with a few samples I did with the Zar. Don't know how that compares to the minwax, but the mods seem to be the direction WB clears are headed.


 That is a very interesting approach. Are there any bonding issues with the WB flat varnish over the modified WB oil? What finish is the modified oil?


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## DeanV

The Target 2000 stuff is awesome in its own right as well. I think it qualifies as a oil modified product as well. It is a tung oil based product. Expensive, but has a really nice feel to it and on a side by side sample with lacquer on cherry, painters could only get which one was lacquer right half the time.


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## Roadog

I used the min wax once. At first I didnt like it.....but after about 20 mins. of learning curve, I liked it. Looked good too...
It does dry fast and you got to move, I was on some custom cabinets so I planned start stop areas. I liked it. How durable..? no idea. Water clean up....I would still use some spirits but it does OK.


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## Muddy

We've used it before in small area applications. Worked just fine.


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## kdpaint

Some people hate MinWax, (reg. oil) but I have done a lot of floors with it in the past and it was really durable on high traffic rental unit floors, but stinks like no other, and is not much cheaper than Zar, which is better for a number of reasons.


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## ROOMINADAY

*Follow Up*

Minwax Polyurethane WB - I put 3 coats on today and it is really nice. It leveled out nice and dried quick. The 2 and 3 coats brushed very nice. The satin WB has less sheen than the oil base and it ambered the wood (oak) about 3/4 less than oil. As far as durability only time will tell - they did tell me it is rated for floors - cant imagine how fast you would have to apply it to a large surface

The best part - NO CRAP in my polyurethane!


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## straight_lines

Was the dry time faster or slower than acrylic wb?


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## ROOMINADAY

I would say it was a little longer but not by much. I had the heat set at 90 and a fan moving air around.


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## straight_lines

Thanks. I have a oak floor refinish coming up I may give it a go. Thing I hate most about acrylic is how fast it dies and the grain raising.


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## ROOMINADAY

There was a little but negligible grain raising, It sanded out nice in between coats.

It allowed me to have a wet edge while I brushed, not sure how a whole room of floors would work out., as long as it wasn't 30' x 30' although I am sure it would work fine.


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## straight_lines

I use wb acrylic for floors all the time. You either have to work fast and keep a wet edge or stop on a board to avoid laps.


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