# Previously thermofoiled mdf cabs



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Client removed all the thermofoil. At first glance cabinets look fantastic. After getting into this I realize there is a fine layer of glue on a lot of these doors. Crap.
Question: Do I have to remove all the glue, or will BIN seel the deal. If I have to strip them, what would you use. Not sure if my pics attached here..Should I just run?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

*Thermafoil Cabinets*

It's a good idea to remove as much of the glue as possible. It's always a gamble to prime directly over it, since you'd be betting the longevity of your paint job off the structural integrity of that glue. 

There have been many formulations for the glue that's used to initially bond the skin to the mdf, so you'll have to experiment to find the most effective way to remove it. Paint thinner, lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol & acetone, with acetone being the only fairly sure-fire solvent that's almost guaranteed to work. I'd start with paint thinner though, as it stays wet longer. Scotch-brite pads & clean rags to get as much up as possible. It'd be much easier to remove that porous looking glue in your first pic than it'd be to try to fill it with building up primer & sanding back to fill.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> It's a good idea to remove as much of the glue as possible. It's always a gamble to prime directly over it, since you'd be betting the longevity of your paint job off the structural integrity of that glue.
> 
> There have been many formulations for the glue that's used to initially bond the skin to the mdf, so you'll have to experiment to find the most effective way to remove it. Paint thinner, lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol & acetone, with acetone being the only fairly sure-fire solvent that's almost guaranteed to work. I'd start with paint thinner though, as it stays wet longer. Scotch-brite pads & clean rags to get as much up as possible. It'd be much easier to remove that porous looking glue in your first pic than it'd be to try to fill it with building up primer & sanding back to fill.



Thanks Troy,

I figured that would be the answer. Have already done some testing with thinners. I have also sprayed 2 test doors. One with BIN and one with prime lock. Will let them dry over night and do a adhesion test:vs_OMG:lain:


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Update: Ended up useing a sharp 5 in 1 on edges to scrape a layer of glue off all doors. Then wiped with Acetone.
It appeared to be mostly on the door edges which makes sense. What a pain. Could't tell if I was removing glue or a layer of wood to be honest. But had to make sure..
Then sprayed it all with BIN. Looks good so far. Will probably sand and give 1 more coat of primer to seal the deal. Never a dull moment in this business!


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Update: Ended up useing a sharp 5 in 1 on edges to scrape a layer of glue off all doors. Then wiped with Acetone.
> It appeared to be mostly on the door edges which makes sense. What a pain. Could't tell if I was removing glue or a layer of wood to be honest. But had to make sure..
> Then sprayed it all with BIN. Looks good so far. Will probably sand and give 1 more coat of primer to seal the deal. Never a dull moment in this business!


I've used heat guns and scrapers a few times, but it hasn't always worked. It's a sticky mess, that's for sure. I'll usually just suggest new doors, which end up being very close to the price of my labor & material to salvage old ones. Keep us posted. Hopefully it's smooth sailing from here on out!


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## ProjectPaint (Mar 3, 2020)

Just charge whatever makes sense for you to create a control sample door for customer. That way you can know how they are going to finish, and you can show him actual finish. Your his only answer, so if your up for it..try it.
1. bin should work, kilz prem., or styx to isolate glue/seal the mdf.
Let me know if you have any other questions..


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