# Staining stair skirt board



## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I'm trying to figure the time it will take to strip this skirt board to restain. It's 14 risers both sides. I've done lots of staining new trim and I have tons of experience stripping decks, but never done any stripping interior wood work to restain.

Every section has gouges and scuffs from the vacuum. It's getting stained the same color. Do you think I can just sand the poly off and it'll take the stain? Or am I going to need to take this down to bare wood?

Can I get some insight from anyone with experience? Thanks friends!









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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

How much money do they have?


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

The bigger challenge is the carpeting. Myself I wouldn’t touch this one without the prospect that new carpeting is going in so the old can be removed before I start. If you don’t have that option then yes sand existing poly. But I would definitely use a gel stain. Doesn’t splash, much more control, much more neater, has more body to it for blending.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Yep, I'd be worried about that carpeting with sanding and staining, but honestly I haven't done much of that. Painting wouldn't concern me. I still remember painting those for my neighbours mother years ago. She asked "Doesn't that make you nervous Bill?" My reply, "nervous about what?" "Well, what if you get paint on the carpet?" "Oh! I don't care, it's not my carpet."

Her jaw dropped. 5 seconds later she burst out laughing. "You're a terrible person Bill!"


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

Forgot to include that detail, the carpet will be removed. They're getting new carpet and want it all to look new. 

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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

AngieM said:


> Forgot to include that detail, the carpet will be removed. They're getting new carpet and want it all to look new.
> 
> Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


:clap::clap::clap:


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Stripping varnish and stain takes less effort than trying to strip paint. Apply the stripper, let it sit, start removing with a fine steel wool or nylon scrubbing pads. Wash thoroughly. Honestly depending on how apt you are at doing this kind of work, worst scenario each side should take you one day.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

If it will be the same color you may find you will not need to sand it down to bare wood. Unless the entire clearcoat is breaking down, just give it a light sanding to remove the scuffs and possible small amounts of loose clearcoat as needed. If there are deep enough nicks or dings, fill with a hard drying color matched putty and then restain the entire surface. I think many times we just assume that unless we sand to bare wood it just won’t look good. Sometimes that is true, but more often I’ve found that a moderate amount of prep is all that is required. Changing stain colors is a whole different story.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

You might look into Peel- Away by Dumond Chemical, It has been talked about here before. It is a paste that you apply and cover with paper backed plastic and let work for 12-48 hours depending on what you are stripping. peel the paper and the paste is solid and easier to contain, not like the snot of regular stripper. Less smell also. But aside from all it's wonderful properties it still strips paint and will eat skin which makes it disgusting. I just did 800 s.f. of old brick with it and it was much easier to work with but still messy to clean up. You can you tube it.


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## Roamer (Jul 5, 2010)

Do Not use Peel Away on this project. Among the issues with it is that it needs water for the removal process. Big mess. Furthermore, between washing the residue off and neutralizing the surface you will saturate the wood with moisture. Finally, Peel Away can change the color of the wood altogether.

You are better off with Marine Stripper (methylene chloride). Less mess and less hassle with neutralizing.

A simpler solution would be just to lightly sand the surfaces, spot stain any bare wood and give it a couple of coats of fresh poly.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I ended up using my Fein multitool with the triangle sanding pad and this perfect attachment for that tight space. This is my best right hand man. He did all the sanding while I stood there with the vacuum. It only took 2 hours and all the sanding was done.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I'm going to use a shaker can of lacquer to seal and top coat it. Bad idea?


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## dirtyjeep01 (Dec 19, 2015)

You have the right idea. Sander down. If you have an hvlp use that. Even go buy a cheapo hvlp. Hook up with compressor. Wipe your stain on. Spray a sanding sealer. Add an oz or 2 of stain for shading if you need. Sand with 320 . Two coats lacquer . I like post cat conversion varnish more. Spray two light coats three if you want.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

AngieM said:


> I'm going to use a shaker can of lacquer to seal and top coat it. Bad idea?


Go for it!

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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

lilpaintchic said:


> Go for it!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Agree. It’s not cabinetry or furniture. Rattle can finish for an area that small is fine. Saves time and trouble from using sprayer unit.


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