# Best paint system for this moulding



## br1dge (Sep 4, 2007)

Hi everyone. A GC asked me to come out and bid a very-high end remodel job (high end for me at least,) and the house has some extremely ornate moulding. 12" base and crown, hundreds of square feet of raised panels, etc. The current finish is some sort of whitewash, with what appears to be a satin poly on it. The finish is very very good, just not the "look" the client wants. I would guess remodel to be in the $300k range.

I usually would scuff sand it all (wow a lot of hours), spray bonding primer, in this case the XIM Alkyd bonding primer, then spray 2 coats of Pro-Classics oil, or Porter's Glyptex with my HVLP. I may demo the graco air-assisted unit, but nonetheless, it will be sprayed. I do not have much experience in other options, like lacquer. For the finest of fine finishes, how about spraying a coat of shellac, sanding smooth, then a couple of coats of lacquer.

I have planned for 500 - 700 hours total in job, so have the room to use either paint system, I'd just like to have the best technical solution, the build our plan around that system..

Anyone have experience with both and has some insight? I am pretty sure I am going to degloss the surface with a really good de-glossing compound as opposed to sanding. I know that works well, with oil topcoats, in my opinion even better if done correctly, so I dont want to debate that aspect of it, unless would be less desirable in the alternate lacquer option.

Thanks for everyone's feedback..


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Do not spray lacquer over shellac, I believe it will interact with the shellac. Lacquer over poly is also out because the hard lacquer over the softer shellac can cause problems. I have not seen this first hand, but is what I have read. I would stick with your original plan of priming and topcoating with an oil or waterborne finish.


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## br1dge (Sep 4, 2007)

DeanV said:


> Do not spray lacquer over shellac, I believe it will interact with the shellac. Lacquer over poly is also out because the hard lacquer over the softer shellac can cause problems. I have not seen this first hand, but is what I have read. I would stick with your original plan of priming and topcoating with an oil or waterborne finish.


I believe the newer de-waxed shellacs may perform better. Zinnser claims it will anyway, http://www.zinsser.com/pdf/TDB/sealcoattdb.pdf


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## jambdrop (Mar 31, 2009)

I've been doing ultra high end cabinet finishes exclusively in the Napa Valley for over 10 years and have been swinging a brush for over 30 years. I would go for the Lacquer finish system only if you have some experience with it. I find Lacquer to be the easiest coating system to apply .Of course it is like anything else, it requires absolute meticulous surface and site preparation but the shorter open time of the material allows for faster application of the coatings themselves. The faster drying time also helps to ensure a cleaner finished product. You must be careful not to have an excessive mil thickness of overall finish. (old and new).Otherwise you run the risk of the lacquer cracking. It doesn't happen often but I've seen it twice over the years. I suggest a good sanding to at least break into the existing clear finish. You should be able to tell if you have a heavy build of finish on the existing substrate. If so, stick with a more flexible finish (oil, latex). 
I use pigmented shellac to bridge finshes all the time. I even use it to bridge latex to lacquer! It will provide a more than adequate bond to nearly any old finish. However you must allow the shellac to dry overnight no matter what the label says. There is the risk of the alcohol "gassing" through the lacquer if you don' allow it to fully cure. Once the bridge coat is applied and cured you'll need to sand and apply the appropriate primer for the lacquer system you've chosen. I use a pre-catalyzed product that has a pre-cat vinyl primer that's used under pre-cat lacquer and conversion varnish. Apply one coat only. Sand and apply your finish lacquer(2 coats). Don't be afraid to go airless. I do it alot on big jobs. It's twice as fast as hvlp. Thin your material 20%-25% and use a double orofice fine finish tip. I typically use a Graco ff410


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## brushmstr (Feb 15, 2009)

Jambdrop, I also spray kitchen cabinets using the exact method you are talking about. However, the only issue I have is proper ventilation. Not only because of volatile materials and the possibility of explosion but also the breathable air for other trades. What are your thoughts on waterbourne lacquers such as Target Coatings. I have used them on cabinets installed in new and existing homes. They take more coats but come out nice.


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## jambdrop (Mar 31, 2009)

brushmstr, I've used the waterbournes but don't think they create a finish quite as nice as nitro-cellulose applications. Unfortunately, many of my clients are accustomed to a certain quality level and they know the difference. I do alot of glaze and antiquiing work and have established a certain level of finish work that many demand. Containing the volatiles is certainly a challenge but I try to inform the other trades of my spray days and allow them the opportunity to be elsewhere.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Sometimes spraying lacquer is the only way to get carpenters out of your way so you can work!


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

Dude good for you to be getting asked to do high end work,that says a lot about your skills. So go with an airless no matter what the type of material IMHO, HVLP's are really slow and can leave orange peel texture NOT GOOD. A double orifice or one of the FF tips and you'll be good after you thin the paint just right, a little naptha and some penetrol. (Side note)-If your primer coat looks good do not sand because dust is a huge problem.I would definitley go with oil primer. It flows out better and sands way better than shellac. I mean if you are going to be spraying a bunch of wood you are only going to do 1 coat a day anyways. Like materials with like materials. And by the way if $ is no object this is the best paint on the planet. It is like way spensive but...
http://www.finepaintsofeurope.com/fpe_story.aspx


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