# Preferred method to paint a Tudor style exterior



## Laz (Nov 14, 2010)

Is the general term for a house that has the stucco style panels with trim framing them called a Tudor house?
I have only painted the exterior of two such style houses. Would you just spray the panels and do the trim ether by brush and or brush and roller, or would you cut in and roll the panels. I ask because they are keeping the same colors and it's in fair shape and most likely won't need to do two full coats on the trim. The white of the panels will not be easy to cover when it gets on the trim. 

Next how are these style exteriors caulked? Both that I have done had the panels fully caulked to the trim all the way around. On this house I have to do they only caulked the bottom of the panel at the trim and went up between 4" to 12" up the sides. There are some decent size gaps where the vertical trim and panels meet. I would think allot of water would get in.
I need to know if I should suggest caulking at least the verticals all the way up on each panel. Maybe not the worst Idea to have the top stay uncaulked to let any water drain out if it gets in.

Would you caulk like this house is on the idea of lap siding needing to breath and let out moisture?


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

I have done a few and I always spray and back brush/roll panels first,the brush and roll trim. Cream white base with brown trim, so no problems with coverage on the trim.

I can see maybe leaving the bottoms open and all other sides caulked to let water weep out, but I have only ever seen thm caulked on al sides of the panel. On one house I even had to go so far as to scrape out over 75% of the old failing caulk and redo it, and remove a few pieces trim and replace the rotted sheathing underneath. On this style of home, the caulk joint is critical, IMO.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Oh and I've always heard them called Tudor style as well and they all have the same color scheme.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

^ That. If there are brown ceilings and other areas you can spray brown that saves time also. Not caulking the tops or sides will make for wood rot sooner than later. The verticals are one place flashing is difficult, I think, because of water's ability to seep back up and behind especially with certain angles. The flashing would have to wrap so far over the top of the trim piece that it would be unappealing at best. That is at least my own mind's theory on why it isn't done already. 

The way you describe the current condition of the caulking, I would keep an eye out for already existing wood rot and be prepared to explain the cause and your ideas for remedy. That being, imo, of one other than simply caulking and painting. If you do simply caulk AFTER water has already found a resting spot in between the trim pieces and wall, the rot will only be in more excess later whereas the water that has already found it's place behind the trim boards will now have nothing to do aside from seep through her wood from the inside out. If it remains long enough the damage will work it's way onto the walls as well. Seeping through nail holes from fastening the trim on in the first place. It gets expensive for HO's to take care of repairs like that versus recognizing them and fixing them now. The one's that you can get to understand that concept usually appreciate your service that much more and are comfortable allowing you to take care of their house. I can't imagine having a diagonal piece of trim with a caulk like only four or more inches up the topside of it with the bottomside caulked not having water trapped inside already. Hard to say without being there but that is what it sounds like potentially.

If the rot isn't there already and if it were my house, I would remove the bottom caulking, inspect for damage, allow for potential water runoff and evaporation, then recaulk entirely. I would offer that to my customer as well.


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## Laz (Nov 14, 2010)

The diagonal trim pieces are caulked all the way up. So I should at least suggest caulking verticals all the way up but not at the top of the panel so if the caulk above fails at some point water can at least weep out?

They already had a carpenter replace some wood and panels. He caulked over failing paint so you can see were a good amount of caulk is already letting go.

Do you really think the panels need to be back rolled? They are fairly smooth and can already predict that it may not cover in one.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Eh, you'll know right away whether or not to back roll. I almost always do, but that's just me.

Also, personally I would caulk everything with at least a 40 year. The bottom of one panel can be the top of another, I would just seal everything. Not the best design for a house, depending on climate, but hey.


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