# Aqua Glaze



## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Spent all last season trying to find a window glazing that didn't need days and days to dry before painting. Never found one.

Today I was trying to figure out the difference between Dirtex and TSP-free. Saw on the Savogran website they offer glazing compounds.

Sterling Aqua-Glaze®  Acrylic Glazing Compound can be painted in 30-60 minutes after application.

Anyone here have any experience with it?


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I paint paint said:


> Spent all last season trying to find a window glazing that didn't need days and days to dry before painting. Never found one.
> 
> Today I was trying to figure out the difference between Dirtex and TSP-free. Saw on the Savogran website they offer glazing compounds.
> 
> ...


Still a Dap "33" user myself. Does this Aqua-Glaze come in a tube?


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> Still a Dap "33" user myself. Does this Aqua-Glaze come in a tube?


Looks like 1/2 pint, quart, and gallon.

http://www.savogran.com/pdfs/Aqua_Glaze.pdf


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> Still a Dap "33" user myself. Does this Aqua-Glaze come in a tube?


My understanding is Dap "33" is tried and true. But what scares me away from the stuff is:

Product Painting
1. DAP® ‘33’® Glazing must be painted after it has skinned over and attained a firm set. Firm set is typically demonstrated when a light finger touch to the surface does not leave a fingerprint. Firm set may occur in as little as 7 days after application, but more likely 2-3 weeks after application. Painting must be done only after firm set is achieved.
2. When painting, use only (i) a high quality exterior-grade oil-based paint, or (ii) prime with a high quality oil-based primer and topcoat with a high quality exterior-grade acrylic-latex paint finish. The paint line must overlap onto the face portion of the glass, as well as the bedding area where the sash and glass meet.

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00010401.pdf


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I paint paint said:


> Looks like 1/2 pint, quart, and gallon.
> 
> http://www.savogran.com/pdfs/Aqua_Glaze.pdf


Interesting. But to your question, no I have no experience with it.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Haven't used aqua glaze. Started using Sarco dual-glaze this year and it is nice stuff, linseed based. Easier to work than 33. Still needs to skin. But they are specific about not priming it.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

PRC said:


> Haven't used aqua glaze. Started using Sarco dual-glaze this year and it is nice stuff, linseed based. Easier to work than 33. Still needs to skin. *But they are specific about not priming it.*


*That I like!*

Obviously depends on climactic conditions, but in your experience does the Sarco dual-glaze take hours, days, or weeks to skin?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

The average has been 1-2 weeks.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Aqua glaze is good. I've used it a bunch. One of the busiest window shops in my area only uses it for their re-glazing.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

PRC said:


> Haven't used aqua glaze. Started using Sarco dual-glaze this year and it is nice stuff, linseed based. Easier to work than 33. Still needs to skin. But they are specific about not priming it.


Not priming prior to glazing or not priming before finish coat?


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## squid (Dec 25, 2012)

It sticks to everything and can be messy to deal with but works as advertized. Adding a bit of whiting helps with that. Keep your ball in a damp rag while using it. If it still comes in a metal can, don't run your glazing blade against the rim or it will rust. Good for spot repairs but for high profile work, you still can't beat the look and ease of application of ole 33.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> Not priming prior to glazing or not priming before finish coat?


Not to prime the glazing before topcoats.


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