# would you attempt this, and how?



## Woodco

Client wasnt a bid for this rounded wall with a regular paper. I foresee nothing but problems working around this curved wall. Any experience/advice/warnings?


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## Brushman4

What does client wasn't a bid mean?


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## Woodco

Brushman4 said:


> What does client wasn't a bid mean?


*wants


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## fauxlynn

Would I attempt this? Yes, mostly because I don’t know any better. 

What I am seeing is the radius near the ceiling line kicks out a little when compared to the lower area of the wall. If that is correct, I would start there, making adjustments on placement of the paper on both sides, to minimize visual chaos. 

I guess depending on how much it differs from top to bottom and the actual pattern of the paper, will determine how ‘good’ it can turn out. 

When I did that rounded wall with Lincrusta, I didn’t realize until I got to it that there was a huge concave area. Luckily it was a bit above eye level and the Lincrusta being heavy, just floated over the indent.

Edit-I’m no expert on this subject, just want to re-emphasize that.


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## PACman

I'm also not a wallpaper expert, but i would highly recommend a coat of primer tinted to the background color of whatever wallpaper is being used before hanging it. Almost every rounded wall i have ever seen showed the wall color through the seams after a few years. Painting or priming the wall the background will help alleviate this.


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## Gwarel

I think Fauxlynn and Pac both make good points. If the radius throws the seam out of line I will compensate by making sure it is tight at where possible and if that causes a slight wire (overlap) I will accept that and trim it out. The radius can also throw the paper out of plumb, so starting in the middle of the wall, as mentioned, and working in both directions is a good idea to minimize this. As for tinting the primer, I think that is always a good idea if possible. For me, a medium gray works well with many colors and a dark gray works well with many darker colors. Most of the time you will have multiple colors of a pattern running the length of the seam, so if you can get rid of a white seam with a compatible gray it will usually blend in well. Another suggestion I have is to use a damp sponge to smooth the paper into place. The sponge will conform to the radius better than a plastic smoother.


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## Woodco

Gwarel said:


> I think Fauxlynn and Pac both make good points. If the radius throws the seam out of line I will compensate by making sure it is tight at where possible and if that causes a slight wire (overlap) I will accept that and trim it out. The radius can also throw the paper out of plumb, so starting in the middle of the wall, as mentioned, and working in both directions is a good idea to minimize this. As for tinting the primer, I think that is always a good idea if possible. For me, a medium gray works well with many colors and a dark gray works well with many darker colors. Most of the time you will have multiple colors of a pattern running the length of the seam, so if you can get rid of a white seam with a compatible gray it will usually blend in well. Another suggestion I have is to use a damp sponge to smooth the paper into place. The sponge will conform to the radius better than a plastic smoother.


Right on. Im not concerned with the tinting, because I dont know what the paper is yet, and I usually dont tint unless its a white paper going on a dark wall.

Whenever I paper, I first use a wet rag to smooth it out, then use my plastic smoother to set it, for the same reason you suggest.


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## rosespainting

We have done a few curved walls, even walls on curved stair cases. The type of paper, and its work-ability play a big part on how well, and how fast it will be done. If the job allows, I have laid out the paper on the floor, figured out where my center is for the wall and work out from there. some times overlapping helps if the walls are a little off. If there is a drastic color difference between the will and paper, I will prime curved walls with tinted primer. Though some times the pattern makes it problematic to leave any gap. 

The radius of the wall is not what causes most of the issues, it is the high likelihood of the walls and ceiling not being straight and square that cause issues.


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## jennifertemple

*Personally, I'd run from this one!*

View attachment 102021


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## Woodco

rosespainting said:


> The radius of the wall is not what causes most of the issues, it is the high likelihood of the walls and ceiling not being straight and square that cause issues.


Yes. Im aware of that. Thats where my concern is. 

The problem is, this is a new designer, who said the homeowners have already picked out and ordered the paper (Why the designer wasnt involved in this is beyond me...) without consulting her. There are three more walls and two bathrooms to do in the house, so its a good moneymaker. If I decline this wall, I may lose the whole job, and a potential recurring client. I think I will just do my best to convince them to forget that wall.


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## jennifertemple

Woodco said:


> Yes. Im aware of that. Thats where my concern is.
> 
> The problem is, this is a new designer, who said the homeowners have already picked out and ordered the paper (Why the designer wasnt involved in this is beyond me...) without consulting her. There are three more walls and two bathrooms to do in the house, so its a good moneymaker. If I decline this wall, I may lose the whole job, and a potential recurring client. I think I will just do my best to convince them to forget that wall.



If you get the job and that wall goes badly, they will hold you responsible and perhaps not pay you for any of the work you do that does go well. Unless the problems and risks are written into the contract and the HOs have signed off on the problems presented in that one wall, I would not find it worth the risk.


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## Gwarel

Woodco said:


> If I decline this wall, I may lose the whole job, and a potential recurring client. I think I will just do my best to convince them to forget that wall.


I think you're overthinking it. Paperhanging is all about problem solving. Usually you're worrying about nothing. The pattern and the wall may look great and you'll look like a genius. Of course, you should start by pointing out the problems that could happen because the wall is not perfect, but I would point it out without causing too much concern and then get it done.


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## Woodco

Well, When it comes to wallpaper, I'd rather overthink it than not. Paint is a lot more fixable. I have enough problems with wrinkling on straight walls sometimes, if they have a dip or a bump. That whole round wall looks like nothing but trouble. I dont see the paper laying down flat, let alone seaming up properly. Especially if its 27" paper. I have trouble with the 27" stuff as it is.

If it were just the one wall, I would walk away. I havent heard from the designer in a few days. I told her I couldnt give a price till I got links to the paper. I havent heard anything. I should email her now...


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## Gwarel

This may sound arrogant, but it is not meant to be. I have never walked away from any wall. They can all be papered. Convex is really not a big deal. Concave is much more difficult but I have never done a wall that didn't pass. If I see a potential problem I point it out and make sure the customers understand the worst case scenario. From there I give it my best shot.


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## Gwarel

Gwarel said:


> This may sound arrogant, but it is not meant to be. I have never walked away from any wall. They can all be papered. Convex is really not a big deal. Concave is much more difficult but I have never done a wall that didn't pass. If I see a potential problem I point it out and make sure the customers understand the worst case scenario. From there I give it my best shot.


Actually I lied when I said I've never done a wall that didn't pass. I started thinking about it and remembered a job I did when I was first starting out on my own. I hung a pattern of strawberries in a kitchen and was very proud of the job I did. The homeowner came in at the end of the day and informed me that I had hung the pineapples upside down......Lesson learned, make sure you know which way is up.


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## Brushman4

Gwarel said:


> Actually I lied when I said I've never done a wall that didn't pass. I started thinking about it and remembered a job I did when I was first starting out on my own. I hung a pattern of strawberries in a kitchen and was very proud of the job I did. The homeowner came in at the end of the day and informed me that I had hung the pineapples upside down......Lesson learned, make sure you know which way is up.


If you hung the pineapples up, would the strawberries be upside down?


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## Gwarel

Brushman4 said:


> If you hung the pineapples up, would the strawberries be upside down?[/QUOTE
> 
> That's the fact, Jack:smile:


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## chrisn

jennifertemple said:


> If you get the job and that wall goes badly, they will hold you responsible and perhaps not pay you for any of the work you do that does go well. Unless the problems and risks are written into the contract and the HOs have signed off on the problems presented in that one wall, I would not find it worth the risk.


I would explain and show the customer that the paper is NOT going to look perfect. For the most part, they understand.


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## chrisn

Gwarel said:


> Actually I lied when I said I've never done a wall that didn't pass. I started thinking about it and remembered a job I did when I was first starting out on my own. I hung a pattern of strawberries in a kitchen and was very proud of the job I did. The homeowner came in at the end of the day and informed me that I had hung the pineapples upside down......Lesson learned, make sure you know which way is up.




I once hung a spade ( as in cards) upside down(for a decorator!


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## jennifertemple

Gwarel said:


> This may sound arrogant, but it is not meant to be. I have never walked away from any wall. They can all be papered. Convex is really not a big deal. Concave is much more difficult but I have never done a wall that didn't pass. If I see a potential problem I point it out and make sure the customers understand the worst case scenario. From there I give it my best shot.


 Does not sound at all arrogant. I have not hung much wall paper in recent years, rarely asked to. Faux finishes a-plenty. If the wall appears to have multiple problems I simply suggest they get a specialist, wall paper hanger. I can do the straightforward jobs but don't trust myself on problem sites. If one is confident, I say go for it! You sound confident not arrogant. :smile:
As I see it: The problems with that particular wall is the bottom is more convex than the top and appears a little concave from the corner (Between the points of my 2 arrows). It is the extreme differences between the bottom and the top that would worry me. 

BTW: I think the drywall guys did a P** Poor job on that wall!


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## Woodco

So, I went and looked at the house today. It looks way different in person. The designer texted me the picture I posted. The curve is very mellow. The ceiling drops down about a foot and a half from the left side of the curve to the right, so its giving a false perspective that makes it look like its more out of whack than it is. I feel a lot better about it now.


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## Woodco

So, I hung this wall finally. The curved wall was completely unproblematic. I had some troubles with the protruding corner thing on the right on the bottom pic. Nothing want to lay down right, let alone get the pattern to look decent.... I had to do a few splices. The inside corners were a little challenging due to the pattern, but they seemed to look okay. Also, as sure dumb luck would have it, the difference between the upper ceiling, and lower ceiling was 13.5" which happens to be the vertical pattern repeat, so both ceiling heights have the same pattern amount without any fudging at all. The drywall on this whole wall was pretty damn dead on . Its just that opne area where the ceiling drops down that made the whole thing look like it was out of whack. 

What do you guys think about my ceiling line? I got with the homeowner, and we decided to go with the middle of the shape. I figure that way, anything going ouit of whack would be less noticable.


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## lilpaintchic

Looks good from here!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## SemiproJohn

I like it, and how you negotiated that ceiling seems like it was a smart move. I don't hang wallpaper at all, so my opinion is probably moot, but I think it looks really nice.


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## fauxlynn

Wow! I think it looks great. But I’m kind of dizzy from staring at the pattern. Very cool.


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## fauxlynn

Lol, and now staring at it more I can see how my previous comment/ observation made no sense. Ha.


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## Gwarel

Looks good, nice job.


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## deadend

...discuss all your concerns with the client...negotiate customer expectations versus reality and go from there...account for the difficulty factor and clarify anything that could leave you liable if they're not fully satisfied...


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## Brushman4

Woodco said:


> So, I hung this wall finally. The curved wall was completely unproblematic. I had some troubles with the protruding corner thing on the right on the bottom pic. Nothing want to lay down right, let alone get the pattern to look decent.... I had to do a few splices. The inside corners were a little challenging due to the pattern, but they seemed to look okay. Also, as sure dumb luck would have it, the difference between the upper ceiling, and lower ceiling was 13.5" which happens to be the vertical pattern repeat, so both ceiling heights have the same pattern amount without any fudging at all. The drywall on this whole wall was pretty damn dead on . Its just that opne area where the ceiling drops down that made the whole thing look like it was out of whack.
> 
> What do you guys think about my ceiling line? I got with the homeowner, and we decided to go with the middle of the shape. I figure that way, anything going ouit of whack would be less noticable.


Is this an optical allusion?


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## chrisn

The install looks good, the paper would make me crazy


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## deadend

Woodco said:


> So, I hung this wall finally. The curved wall was completely unproblematic. I had some troubles with the protruding corner thing on the right on the bottom pic. Nothing want to lay down right, let alone get the pattern to look decent.... I had to do a few splices. The inside corners were a little challenging due to the pattern, but they seemed to look okay. Also, as sure dumb luck would have it, the difference between the upper ceiling, and lower ceiling was 13.5" which happens to be the vertical pattern repeat, so both ceiling heights have the same pattern amount without any fudging at all. The drywall on this whole wall was pretty damn dead on . Its just that opne area where the ceiling drops down that made the whole thing look like it was out of whack.
> 
> What do you guys think about my ceiling line? I got with the homeowner, and we decided to go with the middle of the shape. I figure that way, anything going ouit of whack would be less noticable.


 ...couldn't have asked for better dumb luck on that ceiling line...geometrics and curves would definitely not be something I'd rush into..


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## Roamer

Here's a couple of pics of a similar wall we did a couple of years ago at Baltimore-Washington International Airport.


https://www.facebook.com/techpainting/photos/a.174295065954945/1255584614492646/?type=3&theater


Granted we didn't have to account for the wall covering meeting the ceiling nor the baseboard/cove base.


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