# fiberglass pillars



## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi guys,
I have a dozen fiberglass pillars on an exterior porch to paint. They are about 9 years old in nice shape and have never been coated. I was thinking of priming with maybe oil coverstain for adhesion and top coating with a satin Aura or Duration. I was wondering if anyone has a good all waterbased system for this kind of project that would hold up nice. Thanks in advance for any input.
Jay


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Just stay away from kills 2

I like coverstain but on something like that I'd probably go with a solid waterborne.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

PPG Breakthrough


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

No oil, not needed. Use a good bonding primer. Insl-x Stix, XIM, or similar would be fine. Aura alone would most likely be fine. If it were my house, I'd still use a bonding primer though.


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## kingsebi (Jan 27, 2009)

One coat Aqua Lock latex primer. 2 coats Moor Glo Soft Gloss. Done!


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

If you are talking about these then put ULTRA directly on them. No bonding primer needed.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

In the early 2000's, the collars like those were notorious for shedding any coating after a couple winters. Not sure if they changes the formulation of those or not. The pillar themselves, anything would stick to from what I could tell.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> In the early 2000's, the collars like those were notorious for shedding any coating after a couple winters. Not sure if they changes the formulation of those or not. The pillar themselves, anything would stick to from what I could tell.


Sounds like a paint issue.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I used to use oil on those with my favorite topcoat, these days 123 and topcoat. 


How do you charge that UK proshot JP?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> I used to use oil on those with my favorite topcoat, these days 123 and topcoat.
> 
> 
> How do you charge that UK proshot JP?


Hot wire it to an outlet. Nah... it came with an adapter.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Hot wire it to an outlet. Nah... it came with an adapter.


lol I like the hot wire story better.


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## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi guys,
Thanks a lot for all the feed back guys. I really appreciate the heads up. You guys make this site kick ass! 
Have a great night.
Jay


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

DeanV said:


> In the early 2000's, the collars like those were notorious for shedding any coating after a couple winters. Not sure if they changes the formulation of those or not. The pillar themselves, anything would stick to from what I could tell.


 Absolutely true Dean and an excellent point. There is a release agent on the surface from the manufacturing process. They MUST be cleaned well before priming. I always wipe them WELL with lacquer thinner prior to priming with XIM primer. I would imagine that denatured alcohol would work as well. I have stripped my fair share of those columns that were not cleaned prior to priming by others. They are very popular in these parts.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> If you are talking about these then put ULTRA directly on them. No bonding primer needed.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jackpauhl/7246508460/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jackpauhl/7246508234/


JP, the one thing I can't figure out. You have all these systems, Flash Gordon speed, Super Secret products, yet doesn't taking a million pictures, watermarking and tagging take up quite a bit of time too? How does that work into your formulas? 

Yes I agree with you. You can paint those directly with most products. Of course they should be cleaned prior. I prefer to prime them just for the reasons Dean has said. These companies change materials like we change underwear. Always looking for a way to increase profits. They may change a component to save money, unknowingly affecting how coatings react.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

We found XIM oil primer to be work everytime. I think it probably cut the mold release agent and allowed it to bond. Back then, I had not yet heard of release agent (pre-paint talk and self employment days back there).


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> JP, the one thing I can't figure out. You have all these systems, Flash Gordon speed, Super Secret products, yet doesn't taking a million pictures, watermarking and tagging take up quite a bit of time too? How does that work into your formulas?
> 
> Yes I agree with you. You can paint those directly with most products. Of course they should be cleaned prior. I prefer to prime them just for the reasons Dean has said. These companies change materials like we change underwear. Always looking for a way to increase profits. They may change a component to save money, unknowingly affecting how coatings react.



Also, never any pics after the paint has dried. Not sure why that is. Does it not look as good when the paint dries?

I like priming new unfinished substrates. Sure you should clean before but lets face it, it's an exterior and virtually impossible to have it totally clean and free from all contaminants most of the time. 

My thought, like Gabe always preaches is it's good insurance. Not to mention it adds another layer of build which I find makes the finished product look better, plus everything is sealed good so you don't have to worry about flashing, etc. 

I'm sure JP will say that with behr you don't have to worry about any of it. I've used behr and it doesn't perform miracles.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

ColorQuest said:


> Hi guys,
> Thanks a lot for all the feed back guys. I really appreciate the heads up. You guys make this site kick ass!
> Have a great night.
> Jay


People give advice on here based on their own experiences and what they think your dealing wth but they got no horse in the race. My two cents is whatever you decide do a small test mockup and see what happens to that before you finish all of them columns. I say this because I had an issue one time with adhesion on what I think we're similar columns. What process I was assured would work at the time I mass produced on a mess of high fiberglass columns and it didn't grab and it was my fault for not doing a mockup-just sayin.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Pillars of faith!


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## deluxe (Nov 30, 2008)

our system is- always sand first, clean Styx and BM Mooreguard , never failed


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

deluxe said:


> our system is- always sand first, clean Styx and BM Mooreguard , never failed


It's so refreshing to hear others still using moorgard.


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> If you are talking about these then put ULTRA directly on them. No bonding primer needed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## GPTOM (May 24, 2012)

Glidden Professional's Devflex primer finish # 4020 and Devflex semi-gloss # 4216. Both dtm products.


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