# roller lap marks



## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

HI guys I have a problem with my walls that I am painting.First I primed them 2 times this was new plaster but it was already set for more than a year but the look on them with the primer didnt look good which from what I read could be from the slightly low and high spots catching the shadows from light here are some pictures of the primer.Last week I started a wall with the finish washable matte coat but I am still seeing what I think is roller lap marks you could see what im talking about in the 3rd picture which has lines from top to bottom exectly the same roller width.Also here is a picture of the roller I am using it gives the orange peel effect which i like and has a nap length of about half inch or 3/4 inch.I also kept the wet edge when rolling but didnt backroll please advice


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Are you a professional or a DIYer?

So what length of nap was it - 1/2 or 3/4? Personally I wouldn't use either of those lengths unless there was texture.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

im a diyer i think the nap is more of 1/2 it wasnt labelled on the package just checked it with a ruler before i posted


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Just a heads up - since this is a site for professional painters you will likely get redirected to the DIY site. Check over there - many of our members also participate and you will likely get further responses from one of them. Good luck.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

please dont redirect me i already did a post there and they are lost to why or not understanding correctly


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Cheap crappy primer, cheap crappy roller cover, not sanding prior to priming, not sanding between coats, roller nap to long, lack of experience, any or all of these is the problem. Easy fix though... call a professional get professional results. :thumbup:


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

First of all primer was the best i could get in where i live and i did sand prior to priming .The roller cover could be the issue or my technique thats why I need advice no need to be sarcastic please I am already depressed about the problem


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

You also don't say what type and brand of paint you are using - which could also be a factor.

Lambrecht may not be trying to be sarcastic. When a DIYer logs into a site for professionals wanting to know what they did wrong… 

Seriously, your best bet may very well be to hire a professional to do it correctly since having someone here trying to figure out what the specific problem is may be tough.

Use quality paints, primers, and roller covers. Don't use too long of a nap. Work fast and maintain a wet edge.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

its Rossetti brand here is a link of the finish coat im using http://www.rossettivernici.it/it/prodotto-dettaglio.html?id_cat=3087384&CODLIN=AFAB

I also thinned it with 30 percent water like the paint store guy told me to do


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

If you're getting what you would describe as sarcastic replies, it's because you are breaking the rules of this forum by posting here.

Try putting a straight edge on the walls to see if they are truly flat. If not then its most likely shadowing. If they are perfectly flat, then it is either your product or application technique. Wet edges are important to reduce lap marks.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

i did try a straight edge and walls are flat and i do keep a wet edge i only load the roller put up on wall and go down and up a few times in one stroke than for the next one i overlap a bit on the previously wet stroke and move on the only thing im not doing is backrolling correct me if my technique is bad please


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

What color pants were you wearing while painting?


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## davezedlee (May 27, 2012)

You're pressing too hard


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

lol pants where brown lol im not pressing too hard either


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

This guy is having a heck of a time trying to roll these walls. He's been at DIY trying to figure it out for days, and has got some help over there on technique. 
Looking at this finish pic, it seems to me that the matte finish is just flashing from the up and down stroke if the roller... Lot of light coming down that wall..

At DIY I outlined a technique for rolling his finish stroke in the same direction. If that doesn't work, I don't know what will.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Are you in the US? I still think your problem is the paint and roller cover.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

no I live in Malta


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Ok then. Only a few members here that will be able to help you with products that are not in America. Usually when you have a paint flashing it is primer that is not compatible with the topcoat of the topcoat product just sucks. Try using a flat instead of matte or apply the matte straight out of the can with no thinning. If you are using a water-borne product thinning with water will affect its finish differently than thinning a water based product. They are not the same. My suggestion is to lightly sand and apply a coat of finish paint ( not thinned ) with a 1/2 microfibers roller cover.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Try using a 3/8 nap roller. A 1/2-3/4 to me it to much of a nap for smoother walls. Jmays knows his stuff and if his explanation on DIY isn't helping not sure what the rest of us will be able to do to help you fix this. 
How wet is your roller pad? Lines like that to me look likes it either going on to heavy or your just pressing way to hard.
Jmays said to go in one direction (up or down) for your final coat. Try this with a 3/8 nap roller with even pressure.

Edit
Buy a good roller pad not a cheap one.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

I think it is partly the applicator being a non professional but I think the main cause is the amount of light the surface gets 
It doesn't matter how good a painter is even if we wear whites : )

If that surface isn't flawless that natural light will show up any imperfections that a Painter has no control over but will be blamed for in the finished product lol


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

the lines look like they are happening where i am overlapping for my next stroke and the roller is going on real wet not dripping wet neither dry but its enough for me to finish the whole up and down stroke one rollers width without pressing hard or trying to squeeze paint out of the roller


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Looking closer at the pictures and seeing that you used a 3/4 nap for a textured look you may be seeing the shadowing of the peaks from the stipple left by your roller cover. Feel the wall with your hand and see if you have smooth spots and rough spots if you do then that is most likely your problem.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

benthepainter said:


> I think it is partly the applicator being a non professional but I think the main cause is the amount of light the surface gets
> It doesn't matter how good a painter is even if we wear whites : )
> 
> If that surface isn't flawless that natural light will show up any imperfections that a Painter has no control over but will be blamed for in the finished product lol


Well maybe in Australia (and Malta), but here in the states, even a 2 day noob fresh from haulin' fives for the crew would be able to get that wall to look flawless. :yes: :whistling2:


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

the wall feels the same the problem is the overlapping marks look at the third picture with the finish coat on it was like the first two pictures when i primed it. The only thing i see now is those overlapping marks from top to bottom,so its either technique, roller or that im thinning the paint which maybe is not leveling good cause of the extra water im putting in it but looks like where im overlapping its like getting two coats maybe thats why its not looking even


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## New2West (May 26, 2011)

I'd wallpaper that mofo or put up some curtains.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Do one more coat not watered down.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Seriously, you could end up prepping and redoing that wall ten times and still not get it to look satisfactory. Part of the problem is like Ben said - it's a light flooded wall. If you keep messing with it you could potentially end up paying three times more to get it fixed than you would if you were to just hire a pro to do it now. Just my two cents worth.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

its going to be my last effort to try and see whats wrong and if it ends up better so you said to give it one more coat without thinning should i use the same roller for the texture and should I give it the last downward strokes a few steps back ?


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks for trying to help this guy out. If he wasn't getting any answers at the DIY site, and he's from Malta, we can at least try to help him. Leaving it open for those reasons.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

thx wolfgang if anyone can answer my last post please just to clarify some things I will post back on result when i get a chance to do the wall again


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Is this plaster or drywall?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

If you use a 3/8 nap roller you will fill in some or your orange peel look, if you like the look use a 1/2 nap again.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Wolfgang said:


> Is this plaster or drywall?


OP said plaster that sat for a year.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Sometimes plaster will do that.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

I think over thinning might be hampering your film build. 30% is a lot! What does the paint feel like during application? I would try a full strength coat on a wall before anything else.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Looks dry rolled/overworked to me. You should have gone to the Home Depot... More doing more saving... That's the power of the Home Depot.



Home Depot.


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

How many finish coats did you apply?


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

straight_lines said:


> Looks dry rolled/overworked to me. You should have gone to the Home Depot... More doing more saving... That's the power of the Home Depot.
> 
> 
> 
> Home Depot.


Infomercial


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

I would have come out to Malta and fixed it for you for free, if you said you were wearing whites.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Some info from the other site. An Italian paint, thin primer 30 or 40%, thin Paint 40%, says so on the can.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Wolfgang said:


> Thanks for trying to help this guy out. If he wasn't getting any answers at the DIY site, and he's from Malta, we can at least try to help him. Leaving it open for those reasons.


 
He was getting PLENTY of help. I don't think he is LISTENING


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I took a look and he has had some good advice on DIY. Some people just want us to paint for them with out us actually physically doing the painting.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

For a free place to stay in Malta, I will make that wall look perfect. Maybe a few meals thrown in too. I have always wanted to go there....


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

Never heard of Rossetti's paint try SW or BM


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

2 coats of Behr pp Flat would have been a great choice. Scrap the primer next time!


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

Once in a blue moon I'll see those up/downs. Always on a hall wall. Found in my case it was the base (flat or matte) with some formula that calls for certain tints that are high gloss. (Did a dry down years ago at the paint store with all tint colours and found that tints range anywhere from flat to high gloss). 
The fix is usually one of the following or a combination. 
1. Use a lower pile roller
2. Roll in one direction
3. Use a higher sheen paint (matte to egg etc)
4. Remix the formula switching bases and modifying the formula (forget this one for DIY)
5. Spray it (forget this one for DIY)

Good luck on the wall. Let us know how you make out.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

Personally, I don't really think even a great pro painter could get that wall to look perfect with that much natural light shining down it, but this also depends on the brand. The problem is that the paint dries too fast so that by the time you are getting another load of paint onto your roller, it's been too long. If you are not a fast pro, then this problem is even worse. Anyway, you should be using extender, not water and you should be reading the can of paint you bought to determine what the manufacturer recommends in terms of thinning.


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## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

errolt said:


> its Rossetti brand here is a link of the finish coat im using http://www.rossettivernici.it/it/prodotto-dettaglio.html?id_cat=3087384&CODLIN=AFAB I also thinned it with 30 percent water like the paint store guy told me to do


don't add water ... Duh ... And paint like its not your paint, to much dragging paint from one wet mark to the other, gotta keep that nap wet and my naps don't cost $2.00 something like $10.00 to $17.00 each just saying. Hire a proffesinonal ... No offense I never have stripes


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## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

Carl said:


> Personally, I don't really think even a great pro painter could get that wall to look perfect with that much natural light shining down it, but this also depends on the brand. The problem is that the paint dries too fast so that by the time you are getting another load of paint onto your roller, it's been too long. If you are not a fast pro, then this problem is even worse. Anyway, you should be using extender, not water and you should be reading the can of paint you bought to determine what the manufacturer recommends in terms of thinning.


hes rolling not spraying... No thinning required ... Just saying


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## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

HeadHoncho said:


> 2 coats of Behr pp Flat would have been a great choice. Scrap the primer next time!


huh???


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## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> I think over thinning might be hampering your film build. 30% is a lot! What does the paint feel like during application? I would try a full strength coat on a wall before anything else.


Thats what I'm saying...


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## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

cdpainting said:


> Do one more coat not watered down.


hire a pro!!!


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## jwilks75 (Jan 12, 2014)

I agree with operator error. For one a beginner with a 1/2" or 3/4" inch nap on a smooth wall I'd bet 10 out of 10 times your going to see those lap marks. If you are using a thick primer or one that tends to build a heavy nap is sure to leave lap marks if you don't know how to lay the wall off correctly. Apart from hiring a pro to come fix it, from what I've seen and heard I'd pole sand with 220 to knock down any lap marks a bit. Then if I was a beginner I'd get two people one applying the product with a 3/8" nap and one laying off the wall with a eighteen inch frame with a 1/4" nap. Make sure the guy laying off the paint in laying it off going from top down every time. I'd recommend doing it this way for beginners because you won't be able to paint as fast as a pro can and this will help you keep a wet edge along with keeping the mil thickness of the coat even. Of course I've never used latex paint that recommended thinning with 30% water. Also youtube has a couple of painters that know what there doing who have videos for rolling technique.


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## Marrone72 (Oct 12, 2013)

errolt said:


> lol pants where brown lol im not pressing too hard either


Next time wear a pair of Jeans or Khaki’s. That’s what the *semi-pros* here seem to recommend. It may improve your skills too. :jester:


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## Marrone72 (Oct 12, 2013)

Hope this helps... And BTW - the guys must be a pro, he is wearing painters whites...


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

to tell you guys the truth i saw these videos before i began and this guy impressed me and followed his tecnique exactly doing only 5 passed down up down up and down for the final stroke. I have other walls that are short and natural light doesnt hit them from the side and i dont see these lap marks. Also this guy in not going back for the final pass which I am not doing also


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

It comes down to either a poor technique, or simply needing another coat. gl.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

well the paint does seem to be flowing well thinned down with 30 percent water.But if you recommend another coat would that be thinned down or straight out of the bucket and should i go back after a few passes and do a final downward stroke. BTW Chrisn I am listening with everything I have dont worry .


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

I just watched that video with amazement. Is that how you guys paint a wall ?

I always cut in first then roll the wall. When the wall is still wet, I lightly back roll to smooth out the paint.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

RH said:


> Well maybe in Australia (and Malta), but here in the states, even a 2 day noob fresh from haulin' fives for the crew would be able to get that wall to look flawless. :yes: :whistling2:


G'day RH

I've been painting for 22yrs I know how to paint but I also know you can't get a **** surface flawless just with paint 

Sure you can use a flat paint on walls which I never would that can cut down on highlighting allot of imperfections and crap work but light coming through that window no Painter can fix it if the surface is **** 

This is a pic from my townhouse I rent you can be the best painter but that won't change how that looks in the pic 

Even if it was set plaster it would have to be flawless


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Can we get these non painters of PT

As I was replying to RH

I burnt my cheese & tomato toast : ( 
Haven't eaten all day no breaky or lunch just 5ltrs of water lucky I like charcoal


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Sorry about that pic

Just like painters whites that's better


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

Hey, you have already taken a bite from it.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Brian C said:


> Hey, you have already taken a bite from it.


G'day Brian

You know when plating up for the pic I couldn't put the four slices on it would look messy lol
So I plated two and ate two of camera lol


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

errolt said:


> well the paint does seem to be flowing well thinned down with 30 percent water.But if you recommend another coat would that be thinned down or straight out of the bucket and should i go back after a few passes and do a final downward stroke. BTW Chrisn I am listening with everything I have dont worry .


 
not if you are doing that


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

To the moderators

How does this DIY guy rate 4 pages??????????????????????????????:blink::blink::blink:


I want Bill back


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

You're not laying it off or feathering it out enough, like you said you did not "backroll". A second coats helps big time to create consistency though, you will see. I would not use a 3/8 roller myself, takes too much effort to get paint to wall consistently and lay off quickly, it will leave worse marks. What creates dry marks is you need to blend each 2,3, or 4 foot section backwards top to bottom (lay off) and stop.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

benthepainter said:


> Can we get these non painters of PT
> 
> As I was replying to RH
> 
> ...


Ben I am so hungry right now looking at this. I have to stop some where for breakfast since I haven't been food shopping yet.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

Look, thinning it with water doesn't help with extending the dry time which is what you need. Thin it with some extender if you are going to thin it. Thinning with water compromises the paint. I also think people should stop complaining about non painters asking these types of questions. You can see from some of the responses that even painters using this forum can still learn from discussions like this.


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## Marrone72 (Oct 12, 2013)

chrisn said:


> To the moderators
> 
> How does this DIY guy rate 4 pages??????????????????????????????:blink::blink::blink:
> 
> ...


Easy, people like yourself can't help but participate in it.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

benthepainter said:


> Can we get these non painters of PT
> 
> As I was replying to RH
> 
> ...


lol - doesn't matter what the thread is about - could be about moving crap filled toilets, but when Ben chimes in, it's just a matter of time until it's a food thread. Love it!  :thumbsup:


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

ok today I went to my place again just to check some things again and I put my hand on the painted wall and left a dirt finger mark.I went and got a chamois to wipe it clean and what I noticed was that where I wiped seemed to blend with the correct sheen of the paint.Its like I am having two sheens on the same wall one that is a bit shiny and one that is a bit flat (flat is where I am seeing the overlapping marks) and I wiped the flat part and after the water dried it blended with the shiny part. Dont know if I am making any sense though.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

I cant find any paint extenders here seems like they dont exist here


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

errolt said:


> I cant find any paint extenders here seems like they dont exist here


Are you happy with your decision to tackle this project yourself, or will you be more inclined to hire a pro next time?


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

if i hire a pro i wont learn anything do I .I like to do things my self too.But if i had the money to hire someone I would just out of my budget at the moment plus they charge lots here


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

here is another picture of the original wall im talking about that got the lines the part between the two doors where there is a light switch its perfect and i didnt do straight movements to roll it


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

errolt said:


> if i hire a pro i wont learn anything do I .I like to do things my self too.But if i had the money to hire someone I would just out of my budget at the moment plus they charge lots here


I can respect that. You might as well call it good. I mean it looks alright for DIY work. At least you saved a few bucks. The more time you spend on it, the better off you would have been with hiring a pro.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

errolt said:


> if i hire a pro i wont learn anything do I .I like to do things my self too.But if i had the money to hire someone I would just out of my budget at the moment plus they charge lots here


If you learned anything from this experience, it should be : one shouldn't expect professional quality results, with DIY level experience.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

yes i know but I like to learn so i can always do a better job


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

errolt said:


> yes i know but I like to learn so i can always do a better job


Consider this the cost of tuition then.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

If you have access to a product called Gardz in your area I would seal it with that for uniformity and recoat with a 3/8 microfiber roller cover.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

we dont have gardz here am trying to find maybe another clear coat sealer though


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

errolt said:


> we dont have gardz here am trying to find maybe another clear coat sealer though


Theres also a Kilz clear sealer.How about that? Sorry about your painting nightmares.Even though were pros on this site we have all been there one time or another.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

same not available


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## The 3rd Coat (Aug 17, 2013)

I think your problem is that Youtube video you learned to roll from. That guy Idahopainters is not a proper painter, he's all about cutting corners.

Rolling one roller width at a time is a wrong technique. It's done by painters whose main concern is to keep a wet edge at all cost and thus achieve relatively uniform colour with one coat. if you use two top coats, you should have different priorities, because colour coverage is a given. You need to apply the paint in a W pattern and spread it out, then backroll that section from top to bottom. If you spread the paint out properly and backroll, 2 coats will give you the results you're hoping for.

Of course this advice assumes that the plaster has been sealed properly with quality primer.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

and it is still going:no:


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I think your problem is that Youtube video you learned to roll from. That guy Idahopainters is not a proper painter, he's all about cutting corners.
> 
> Rolling one roller width at a time is a wrong technique. It's done by painters whose main concern is to keep a wet edge at all cost and thus achieve relatively uniform colour with one coat. if you use two top coats, you should have different priorities, because colour coverage is a given. You need to apply the paint in a W pattern and spread it out, then backroll that section from top to bottom. If you spread the paint out properly and backroll, 2 coats will give you the results you're hoping for.
> 
> Of course this advice assumes that the plaster has been sealed properly with quality primer.



I have used a variant of the W pattern with some paints and liked it. But implying that's the only way a "proper" painter does it is BS. 

Ever try to do the W with Aura?


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## jwilks75 (Jan 12, 2014)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I think your problem is that Youtube video you learned to roll from. That guy Idahopainters is not a proper painter, he's all about cutting corners.
> 
> Rolling one roller width at a time is a wrong technique. It's done by painters whose main concern is to keep a wet edge at all cost and thus achieve relatively uniform colour with one coat. if you use two top coats, you should have different priorities, because colour coverage is a given. You need to apply the paint in a W pattern and spread it out, then backroll that section from top to bottom. If you spread the paint out properly and backroll, 2 coats will give you the results you're hoping for.
> 
> Of course this advice assumes that the plaster has been sealed properly with quality primer.


I agree! With YouTube you better know enough to find the person who is showing the right way. That guy in the video is doing so many no nos I don't know where to begin. For the guy who started the thread you have to understand that there are many variables that can cause what you are seeing and all we have to go on is the low res pics and what your telling us. If this is your house or your doing it for a friend for a beer then no problem, but if your getting paid for this you should take this as a lesson. I would say the majority of us on this site started at the bottom working for someone who had at least a couple decades of experience and spent many years as an apprentice before we felt like we could go out on our own. If you are planning on getting paid to paint then do yourself a favor and start out at the bottom and learn the right way.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

jwilks75 said:


> I agree! With YouTube you better know enough to find the person who is showing the right way. That guy in the video is doing so many no nos I don't know where to begin. For the guy who started the thread you have to understand that there are many variables that can cause what you are seeing and all we have to go on is the low res pics and what your telling us. If this is your house or your doing it for a friend for a beer then no problem, but if your getting paid for this you should take this as a lesson. I would say the majority of us on this site started at the bottom working for someone who had at least a couple decades of experience and spent many years as an apprentice before we felt like we could go out on our own. If you are planning on getting paid to paint then do yourself a favor and start out at the bottom and learn the right way.



Please try to explain what the 'nos' are he's doing. 
He did change the orientation of the roller half way through the wall, but what else? 

He got the paint spread with a minimum of strokes, and finished with a down stroke. 

What is the "right way"? Please enlighten us


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Please try to explain what the 'nos' are he's doing.
> He did change the orientation of the roller half way through the wall, but what else?
> 
> He got the paint spread with a minimum of strokes, and finished with a down stroke.
> ...


Just keep rolling out "W's: until the wall is covered lol.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Jwlks75 it may be time for you to take a trip to Colorado so you won't give a crap about your wall anymore.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

How could I resist a empty car spot in front of my favourite Chinese Restaurant : ) 
And My favourite Szechuan Chicken : ) 

Home early from work time to catch up on the PT
Pro thread


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## jwilks75 (Jan 12, 2014)

Lambrecht said:


> Jwlks75 it may be time for you to take a trip to Colorado so you won't give a crap about your wall anymore.


I don't know where you got this being my wall, but if you pay the way I'll take that trip to Colorado.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Bill Can 

You see if you can borrow the Key from your Old Mod Mates and lock this thread : ) 

As I'm sure I will be back at Dinner Time


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I think your problem is that Youtube video you learned to roll from. That guy Idahopainters is not a proper painter, he's all about cutting corners.
> 
> Rolling one roller width at a time is a wrong technique. It's done by painters whose main concern is to keep a wet edge at all cost and thus achieve relatively uniform colour with one coat. if you use two top coats, you should have different priorities, because colour coverage is a given. You need to apply the paint in a W pattern and spread it out, then backroll that section from top to bottom. If you spread the paint out properly and backroll, 2 coats will give you the results you're hoping for.
> 
> Of course this advice assumes that the plaster has been sealed properly with quality primer.



thats what I said a page ago


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## jwilks75 (Jan 12, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> Please try to explain what the 'nos' are he's doing.
> He did change the orientation of the roller half way through the wall, but what else?
> 
> He got the paint spread with a minimum of strokes, and finished with a down stroke.
> ...


What do you mean he's rolling the wall straight up and down like I mow my lawn, but I like lines in my lawn not on my walls. I don't care if you like V's, N's, W's, I's when applying the paint, but you have to lay the wall off. The edge off the nap is applying a different amount of paint than the middle of the roller so if you go straight up and down and never lay the wall of you will be left with lines. It's getting the paint spread *evenly* with minimum strokes. Yes he also rotates the frame and then at the end he cuts in with a 4" roller horizontally across the wall. I'll include a video of better technique.




You are now enlightened!


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

jwilks75 said:


> I don't know where you got this being my wall, but if you pay the way I'll take that trip to Colorado.


My bad, I meant that for errolt. Damn short term memory lose


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

RH said:


> Well maybe in Australia (and Malta), but here in the states, even a 2 day noob fresh from haulin' fives for the crew would be able to get that wall to look flawless. :yes: :whistling2:





benthepainter said:


> G'day RH
> 
> I've been painting for 22yrs I know how to paint but I also know you can't get a **** surface flawless just with paint
> 
> ...



Ben,
I would have thought the insertion of the three emoticons would have made certain that you knew I was kidding. I was.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

You'd think these guys would want to put on clean clothes before they make a youtube video.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

most house painters I know are scruffy looking, tattooed ,smoking and just got out of jail.


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## jwilks75 (Jan 12, 2014)

Lambrecht said:


> My bad, I meant that for errolt. Damn short term memory lose


You must have already been to Colorado this year


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

RH said:


> Ben, I would have thought the insertion of the three emoticons would have made certain that you knew I was kidding. I was.


G'day RH

Normaly I can see a joke but a Man of my size running on an empty stomach I was getting hungry : ) after I burnt my toast I re read the post on a full tummy


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

I will have to try on that other technique to spread the paint more evenly than too like the guy in the last video you posted.Will have to try tomorrow though cause today is my birthday and wasnt planning on going to work .Worst birthday I am going to have damn walls


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

perhaps pay for Ben's airfare to Malta and he will paint the wall for you. I'm sure Ben would like to eat those little Maltese pasties.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Brian C said:


> perhaps pay for Ben's airfare to Malta and he will paint the wall for you. I'm sure Ben would like to eat those little Maltese pasties.


G'day Brian 

Mate I wouldn't leave Australia maybe to visit the Yanks I will


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## sensitive skin (Jul 24, 2013)

errolt, i would guess that the problem is just crappy paint, no offense! i just had issues with a ceiling, i had coated a it like 3 times before i decided that it was the fault of the paint that it just wouldnt look uniform! it looked like i gone too thin on all these spots but it turns out it was just a crappy paint

a paint that needs to be thinned for whatever reason, well, maybe its making things unnecessarily complicated for sake of creating a false dimension of "expertise"

if you are still wrestling with these walls, try a better paint. by "better" i mean better covering and more uniform coating, ehem, i mean easier to apply and to get good results from! buy a couple quarts of different products and when they're dry, shine a bright light on it from different angles to see if its really uniform...

this bulls41t about stroking down instead of up?? ugh i don't know how these guys take themselves seriously

and did you see that tomato cheese bread? he put the stem from the tomato on there as a garnish!! what??!?

it could be the plaster interacting with the paint but if you've already got 2 or 3 coats on there and you're still having this problem, then honestly, try to find a better paint

IS IT REALLY WARM IN THERE? like 85+ degrees farenheit? that could be causing your paint to dry too quickly and then your second pass with the roller is making a mess. some paints in too-hot temperatures will have a max working time of 45 seconds less. wtf. you COULD try to find an additive that will slow drying. u should just experiment with a couple different paints. nothing too crazy.

i promise that you'll be able to find an easier-to-work-with, better-results acrylic paint... also maybe try a shorter-nap roller. 1/4" and/or foam. shorter nap and foam instead of shaggy will be more likely to produce a smooth, uniform surface


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

where is your sensitive skin , brother ?


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

sensitive skin said:


> ugh i don't know how these guys take themselves seriously and did you see that tomato cheese bread? he put the stem from the tomato on there as a garnish!! what??!?


Ha ha you are a little sensitive aren't you lol 

Wow you picked up on my stem from the tomato I wouldn't say garnish as I wouldn't eat it but Red and Green on the colour wheel are complementary I thought for a photo it's only natural for a pro to make it look good : ) 

So not for garnish purely for Colour & yes not Color : p And you say you don't know how we can be taken seriously lol Prime example I love painting and love my food : ) Let's say first pic is from a hack taking pics of cheese on toast then second pic someone who loves what he does : ) 

And as they say if you can't stand the heat Get out of the kitchen


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

hey guys just got back from some paint stores again. I found one paint store that told me that that problem I am having is more likely to be the surface is not sealed.He told me I shouldve used a sealer before priming.He also said that its too late now to fix the problem if its a sealing problem.What do you think can I use a sealer now on the primed walls and on the wall with the finish paint already on ??


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Ggpbl


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Please don't send me a private msg in regards to the code . I will not give up the Code-masters name I'm old school like that : )


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

chrisn said:


> To the moderators
> 
> How does this DIY guy rate 4 pages??????????????????????????????:blink::blink::blink:
> 
> ...


lol sometimes exceptions are made. Report this severe violation :jester:


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Must be a strong Code as I tried to make them all In capitals like the true Code but PT just edited 
My caps ??????? Conspiracy maybe hmm


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

benthepainter said:


> Must be a strong Code as I tried to make them all In capitals like the true Code but PT just edited
> My caps ??????? Conspiracy maybe hmm


Conspiracy for sure. Don't let these rubes hold you down Ben.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

can anyone answer my questions please ?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

errolt said:


> can anyone answer my questions please ?


Which one? I "skimmed" the last two pages.


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

errolt said:


> can anyone answer my questions please ?


It's late it's 11.41pm in Old Sydney Town
Is there a new question ?


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

errolt said:


> hey guys just got back from some paint stores again. I found one paint store that told me that that problem I am having is more likely to be the surface is not sealed.He told me I shouldve used a sealer before priming.He also said that its too late now to fix the problem if its a sealing problem.What do you think can I use a sealer now on the primed walls and on the wall with the finish paint already on ??


This one please also the sealer he talked to me about is clear not white


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

errolt said:


> can anyone answer my questions please ?


:blink:...


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

errolt said:


> can anyone answer my questions please ?


Could you please repeat the question?


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

I found one paint store that told me that that problem I am having is more likely to be the surface is not sealed.He told me I shouldve used a sealer before priming.He also said that its too late now to fix the problem if its a sealing problem.What do you think can I use a sealer now on the primed walls and on the wall with the finish paint already on ??
also the sealer he talked to me about is clear not white


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

would love to Chat but it's nearly Midnight
The Yanks should be awake soon to help you out


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

This Yank is on his way to work for the day.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

errolt said:


> I found one paint store that told me that that problem I am having is more likely to be the surface is not sealed.He told me I shouldve used a sealer before priming.He also said that its too late now to fix the problem if its a sealing problem.What do you think can I use a sealer now on the primed walls and on the wall with the finish paint already on ??
> also the sealer he talked to me about is clear not white


Others have already pointed out it was a sealer issue, you have already applied primer and finish paint. I don't think a sealer will seal the bare drywall any more.
We have also said to try painting the wall again WITHOUT thinning the paint.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

> Originally Posted by errolt
> hey guys just got back from some paint stores again. I found one paint store that told me that that problem I am having is more likely to be the surface is not sealed.He told me I shouldve used a sealer before priming.He also said that its too late now to fix the problem if its a sealing problem.What do you think can I use a sealer now on the primed walls and on the wall with the finish paint already on ??


I admit I did not read the whole thread is the drywall or plaster new? If so yes a sealer would of been the way to go. What sheen is the finish? 

Scuff sand the walls and seal them and repaint you should be fine. Natural light and viewing angle will effect your finished look as well. 



errolt said:


> This one please also the sealer he talked to me about is clear not white


I would use either clear or if you are using something white tint it as close as possible to your finish color then repaint.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

cdpainting said:


> Others have already pointed out it was a sealer issue, you have already applied primer and finish paint. I don't think a sealer will seal the bare drywall any more.
> We have also said to try painting the wall again WITHOUT thinning the paint.


I think a sealer/primer and topcoats will work better than just more topcoats. 

did it say what sheen was used?


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Wow so my Midnight is Morning for you Gents : ) So What's for Breakfast ?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

benthepainter said:


> Wow so my Midnight is Morning for you Gents : )
> 
> What's for Breakfast ?


654am here Ben in the central tz.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

what i meant was can i just use a sealer now on the already primed surface and than go straight to the finish coat?
And for the other wall which I already did 2 coats of finish paint can i use the sealer too and than give it 2 coats of finish paint again ?

Or will i have to use a primer again after the sealer ?


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> 654am here Ben in the central tz.


G'day WA

Cool 

what's TZ is that one of Wolfgangs codes lol


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

jwilks75 said:


> What do you mean he's rolling the wall straight up and down like I mow my lawn, but I like lines in my lawn not on my walls. I don't care if you like V's, N's, W's, I's when applying the paint, but you have to lay the wall off. The edge off the nap is applying a different amount of paint than the middle of the roller so if you go straight up and down and never lay the wall of you will be left with lines. It's getting the paint spread evenly with minimum strokes. Yes he also rotates the frame and then at the end he cuts in with a 4" roller horizontally across the wall. I'll include a video of better technique.Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v61PVzLNemk&feature=share&list=PL1E4802249F7849EB
> 
> You are now enlightened!



That's fine too. The main difference I see I the two vids is the second guy puts about half as much paint on the wall. A LOT of pros put a half coat on at a time, and there's nothing wrong with that... Nothing wrong with putting a full coat on either. 

To the last question; if its not sealed properly the only thing you can do is re prime it with better primer. That's why Gardz was recommended previously, it seals the surface better than most primers.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Workaholic said:


> I think a sealer/primer and topcoats will work better than just more topcoats.
> 
> did it say what sheen was used?


No he didn't mention the sheen.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

the sheen is matte thats what it says on the can but you can view the photo here it is


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

what i meant was can i just use a sealer now on the already primed surface and than go straight to the finish coat?
And for the other wall which I already did 2 coats of finish paint can i use the sealer too and than give it 2 coats of finish paint again ?

Or will i have to use a primer again after the sealer ?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

cdpainting said:


> No he didn't mention the sheen.



It's Matte


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

You said it's set plaster didn't you ?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

errolt said:


> what i meant was can i just use a sealer now on the already primed surface and than go straight to the finish coat?
> And for the other wall which I already did 2 coats of finish paint can i use the sealer to and than give it 2 coats of finish paint again ?
> Yes scuff sand the walls and I would use a primer, or a pv, sand between coats, then topcoat two coats. It is just paint everything is fixable imo
> Or will i have to use a primer again after the sealer ?


There is no need to use both. Use one or the other and then topcoat. Four pages on a wall lol. I think I will log into the diy to see why your thread there missed. There are many professionals and knowledgeable diy there.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

yeah before when someone asked me but I have already gave 2 coats of primer on the walls and the wall that I just put up have the finish coat on too


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> There is no need to use both. Use one or the other and then topcoat. Four pages on a wall lol. I think I will log into the diy to see why your thread there missed. There are many professionals and knowledgeable diy there.


That's funny I just saw Red and thought the thread was locked ?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

errolt said:


> the sheen is matte thats what it says on the can but you can view the photo here it is


I remember now. I go with my original post back on page one. 

Are you seeing the roller marks or the mud joints and screws? 

If it is simply the roller technique then I would retopcoat using a 1/2 nap to help you keep a wet edge. Don't dryroll dip again and keep on keeping on.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

benthepainter said:


> Wow so my Midnight is Morning for you Gents : ) So What's for Breakfast ?


I have a Business Connections meeting at 7:00 Pacific.
Not sure yet what I'll have but likely eggs over easy, ham, hash browns, sour dough toast. Or maybe a Denver omlet and sd toast. And of course coffee - black. Lots of coffee.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

i dont have mudjoints on the walls bro these walls are plastered not drywalled.Im seeing like rollermarks look closely to the photo on the right hand side wall near the door opening two different sheens


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

benthepainter said:


> That's funny I just saw Red and thought the thread was locked ?


I lost those buttons lol. 



errolt said:


> i dont have mudjoints on the walls bro these walls are plastered not drywalled.Im seeing like rollermarks look closely to the photo on the right hand side wall near the door opening two different sheens


Then it was technique and or equipment. Should be no reason to prime or seal then. Redo the topcoat without squeezing the roller and maybe use a bigger nap than before. 

Do you wish you would have just hired it done at this point?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I don't ever recall a civilian ever getting so many answers to so many questions here on PT.


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

I am not squeezing the roller im sure and like i said before if I hired someone I would not learn to do it myself .Plus we dont have professional painters that much here and if I could find any they would charge a lot too


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

RH said:


> I don't ever recall a civilian ever getting so many answers to so many questions here on PT.


Me neither.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

errolt said:


> I am not squeezing the roller im sure and like i said before if I hired someone I would not learn to do it myself .Plus we dont have professional painters that much here and if I could find any they would charge a lot too


You probably are and don't even realize. Guys that have a lot of practice with rolling will really load up the sleeve heavy with paint and keep that sleeve completely saturated. Homeowner/DIY types tend to really push that sleeve until they are almost dry rolling the material on.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

A lot of people here have taken the time to give you lots of information. So, just curious, what have you learned so far?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

errolt said:


> I am not squeezing the roller im sure and like i said before if I hired someone I would not learn to do it myself .Plus we dont have professional painters that much here and if I could find any they would charge a lot too


No reason to get defensive. I can hear from another room when a roller needs to be dipped again, it is not uncommon for ppl to try and finish up the wall without dipping again. The pics look like technique to me. Easy fix as long as you tweak the technique. for matte a 1/2 is what I would use. Keep a wet cover and do not try and cover to much ground, work the paint evenly, repeat. 

The only way to learn is to keep at it. So enough talk reroll those walls. 



Carl said:


> You probably are and don't even realize. Guys that have a lot of practice with rolling will really load up the sleeve heavy with paint and keep that sleeve completely saturated. Homeowner/DIY types tend to really push that sleeve until they are almost dry rolling the material on.


This. ^^^^


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

All the advice given and both videos boil down to the same basic things.. Put plenty of paint on, spread it evenly and quickly, and finish with a down stroke. 

The method Gymschu and I spelled out at DIY is basically a combination of both vids. Put a generous coat on like in the first vid, and drop back and lay it off like in the second vid.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

errolt said:


> I am not squeezing the roller im sure and like i said before if I hired someone I would not learn to do it myself .Plus we dont have professional painters that much here and if I could find any they would charge a lot too


Gee, a professional painter would charge a lot. I guess a professional lawyer, doctor, electrician, plumber, CPA, probably would not charge much. Why would they. They only spent years fine tuning their craft to become professional so they can charge a lot. You have been giving more help than most and then turn around and complain that a professional painter would charge to much. Piss off. I think its time this thread gets closed. Stupid can't be fixed.


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## sensitive skin (Jul 24, 2013)

if you already have two coats of paint on there, you won't need a sealer anymore. the plaster may have interfered with the first coat, probably not the second. so you're good. lemme reiterate that you probably just haven't yet found a good paint, that i think was your problem aside from initial plaster interference. as for what type of roller, maybe 1/2" is better if you're having frustrations with coverage.

sometimes its nice to have a thicker nap because it'll get your surface covered thicker more quickly, sometimes its nice to have a thinner nap/foam if you're paying really close attention to the texture...

technique with loading up roller so that it drips profusely on its way to the wall, ehhh... you usually end up having to squeeze out the roller as you're leveling off the coat to even out the roller-edge marks. unless you have such a beautifully engineered roller that it doesn't leave any edge marks, which you don't. 

find a better paint that won't break that bank. (behr ultra plug :whistling2


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## errolt (Dec 18, 2013)

Lambrecht said:


> Gee, a professional painter would charge a lot. I guess a professional lawyer, doctor, electrician, plumber, CPA, probably would not charge much. Why would they. They only spent years fine tuning their craft to become professional so they can charge a lot. You have been giving more help than most and then turn around and complain that a professional painter would charge to much. Piss off. I think its time this thread gets closed. Stupid can't be fixed.


Bro I didnt mean it like that I bet you guys which are better than the guys who calls them self s professionals we have here would charge me less than the guys here.Everything is way to expensive here when it comes to labour. Dont worry you want me to piss off I will do that since some of you arent happy that I posted here from the beginning of the post . I only wanted opinions and some help.My last words to this post since it will maybe get locked or removed so no one would complain about it is just to say a big thanks to everyone that tried to help me.Now im pissing off Lambrecht


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

errolt said:


> Bro I didnt mean it like that I bet you guys which are better than the guys who calls them self s professionals we have here would charge me less than the guys here.Everything is way to expensive here when it comes to labour. Dont worry you want me to piss off I will do that since some of you arent happy that I posted here from the beginning of the post . I only wanted opinions and some help.My last words to this post since it will maybe get locked or removed so no one would complain about it is just to say a big thanks to everyone that tried to help me.Now im pissing off Lambrecht


You got some great advice on the DIY forum and you were not happy. Some of the pros here are on the DIY and tried to help you. Apparently you would not take their advice there and you are not taking the advice the same pros are giving you here. It has gotten out of hand on this thread and myself I wish they would close it already. Apparently you do not want to listen to what the pros are telling you to do.
I know it is driving some of us insane having to repeat ourselves. Either read and take the advice or just move on and back to the DIY forum.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

This is almost like trying to talk to richmond.


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## alan (Feb 17, 2010)

breaking news! this just in 

the plaster guy sucks!!


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> Me neither.


never, ever, that was my point


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Lambrecht said:


> Gee, a professional painter would charge a lot. I guess a professional lawyer, doctor, electrician, plumber, CPA, probably would not charge much. Why would they. They only spent years fine tuning their craft to become professional so they can charge a lot. You have been giving more help than most and then turn around and complain that a professional painter would charge to much. Piss off. I think its time this thread gets closed. Stupid can't be fixed.


 
welllll, I think I might have mentioned it already


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

cdpainting said:


> You got some great advice on the DIY forum and you were not happy. Some of the pros here are on the DIY and tried to help you. Apparently you would not take their advice there and you are not taking the advice the same pros are giving you here. It has gotten out of hand on this thread and myself I wish they would close it already. Apparently you do not want to listen to what the pros are telling you to do.
> I know it is driving some of us insane having to repeat ourselves. Either read and take the advice or just move on and back to the DIY forum.[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> :no: you and I know, that didn't work either


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## Splash (Jan 7, 2014)

alan said:


> breaking news! This just in the plaster guy sucks!!


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

Workaholic said:


> No reason to get defensive. *I can hear from another room when a roller needs to be dipped again*, it is not uncommon for ppl to try and finish up the wall without dipping again. The pics look like technique to me. Easy fix as long as you tweak the technique. for matte a 1/2 is what I would use. Keep a wet cover and do not try and cover to much ground, work the paint evenly, repeat.
> 
> The only way to learn is to keep at it. So enough talk reroll those walls.
> 
> ...


My wife thinks I'm deaf but I can hear that sound loud and clear. "More Product! More Product!"


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## sensitive skin (Jul 24, 2013)

Brian C said:


> where is your sensitive skin , brother ?


eyes, nose, throat, inside mouth, fingertips. im the guy who wears the respirator ALL THE TIME. i think i have allergies.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

Hmmm, don't you think you're in the wrong trade then ?


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

errolt if you want real professional advice the pros know ask"Sherwin Williams."


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## sensitive skin (Jul 24, 2013)

Brian C said:


> Hmmm, don't you think you're in the wrong trade then ?


no man the respirator is futuristic. im gonna start designing fancy low profile ones so all those hip kids in beijing can start wearing them. i'll start by charging as much as an ipod for my sleek respirator.

nerve damage?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

166 posts :no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no:


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

chrisn said:


> 166 posts :no::no:


And still going :blink:


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## benthepainter (Jun 17, 2011)

cdpainting said:


> And still going :blink:


Maybe it's like a secret shopper ?

I hope we have all been on our best behaviour : )

Any of out fellow Members been banned lol


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

In before the lock.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

This thread is now closed -


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> In before the lock.


or the reason for it...:whistling2: 

I think the gentleman from Malta got his money's worth out of PT.


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