# Whitewashing T & G Ceiling



## Dave P. (Sep 1, 2009)

I am working on a ranch style house that was built with a screened in porch on the end. I have enclosed the porch and tore the wall out to the existing house. I installed T & G pine on the ceiling tying into the existing. I didn't quite get the stain to match as good as I would have liked. I thought it was dead on until I installed the boards and it took on a lighter look to it. My customer doesn't really like the darkness of the old ceiling, so rather then spending the time on trying to blend the old to the new they want me to whitewash the whole thing. So being I have never done this I thought I better look into it before I make any attempts. I do have some scrap pieces with the new finish on them that I can use to test with. It appears the old ceiling just has stain on it. The new ceiling I sprayed on a stain sealer mixture. At this point both ceilings seem to have about the same sheen to them.
So before I get myself any deeper into a mess I thought I better ask around first. 
Hopefully there is a product that can be used over the existing finish.
Any thoughts?
Thanks Dave


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

pics yo


----------



## Scannell Painting (Sep 25, 2010)

You might try on your sample a white enamel undercoat wiped down. You can vary the tone by thinning or not wiping.


----------



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Because it's sealed you're basically fauxing a whitewash look. Have to find the combo of paint, thinner and perhaps extender to apply without it looking real brushy. When you do it, only take a couple of runs of board from one end to the other until you get a feel for your mix. 
If it is oil with plenty of open time, you might be able to roll on a roller width or so and then brush in. 
If a latex mix, you might not have that time. Use XIM extender for sure if you go that route.


----------



## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

skip the faux and just paint it white


----------



## poet-1 (Mar 27, 2008)

Dave P. said:


> ...Hopefully there is a product that can be used over the existing finish.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks Dave


Yes, there is/are. *Old Masters* _Wiping _Stain.. 

(Be sure it is not Old Masters _Penetrating_ Stain, which can only be applied to new wood or completely stripped old wood surfaces)


----------



## Dave P. (Sep 1, 2009)

I must not have my email notification checked. Didn't know I had replies.
I had to run to Sherwin Williams yesterday to get some paint for a couple doors. While I was there I asked the counter guy if he new anything about the washed finish. He called someone at another store and he recommended using Wood Classic White Pickle stain. Then told the guy waiting on me to add some white. Not sure how much he added. I tried first brushing it on just thick enough to get coverage. Then sponging it on as light as possible. Then sponging it on heavier. It is an oil stain and seams I have plenty of working time. To my surprise within a few hours it was already tacked up and 8 hours I could handle it. I'm obviously use to using penetrating stain.

Here is a pic of the samples. Left is sealed to try to match the existing, second is brushed on, third to right is lightly sponged and all the way to the right is heavier sponged. Any of these methods are going to be a real bear to apply. 













So far I like the heavier sponged the best. It also has a nice sheen to it.









Here is a pic of the ceiling





















This is the last side I started to run up and stepped back to this angle and about had a heart attack when I saw how different the color looked from this angle. Strange thing is my sample looked like it was right on the money. Once I flipped the pieces over and put them on the ceiling it completely took on a different color. 










One advantage I have is there are strips hiding the seams so I can work one section at a time, but I am really concerned about start and stop marks from panel to panel as I move up the ceiling. I'll have to look into the XIM extender. 

I am a little concerned about just painting it because of the expansion and contraction of the T & G. Especially this time of year. If I paint now then it shrinks that could be an issue.


Thanks for the replies so far. 
Dave


----------



## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

Have two scaffolds, one low, on high working across the room. spray bottom to top and have a second guy wiping off?

I don't know that I'd give up on the match just yet. Not sure which side is the new one. Have you considered toner coats?


----------



## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

Hey man looks like you got yourself into a pickle. Don't sweat it though.Whitewashing goes pretty quick once you get set up. Plastic all the walls for sure because it is going to get messy. Get a big brush and a box of rags and just make sure and get down on the ground every now and then to look at your work.Keep your mask on brother. One tip is to actually tape a rag to the brush ferrule to hold the dripping stain.

I don't get how they decided they wanted a pickle and not the stain though.
Two really diff. looks.


----------



## Dave P. (Sep 1, 2009)

The light side is the new. I told them I could get it closer with a little experimenting but she decided she wanted the white wash. Before I started the job I told them the stain may be hard to match perfectly. At that time she was talking white wash. So I think she had that in mind in the first place.
I had thought about spraying it but am really concerned about over spray. This is there second home so they are gone for the winter. So I can put up plastic and leave it until I'm done. I put a new kitchen and Brazilian cherry floors in there a few years ago. I sure would hate to mess them up. Good tip with the rag around the brush. I stained the bottom of a deck a few years ago and built a ledge on my brush with duct tape. It worked pretty well. Duct tape tip of the day!


----------

