# Spraying issues with SW



## Windwood (Nov 12, 2012)

Hi everyone. Glad to find this forum and hope someone can answer some questions for me.

I currently have a job where I am installing two new entry doors. I decided to bring them to my shop for a spray painting job before installation to give them that A-1 appearance and because it's cold outside.

Home owner supplied an old can of SW Superpaint which I thinned and added some Flotrol to in order to get it to spray, but it comes out speckled and blotchy. I don't know how else to describe it, but I can't get a good spray with the stuff no matter now much I thinned it, and I thinned it way too much already. So, thinking it had gone bad, I went and bought another can, but this time they sold me Resilience, saying Superpaint didn't come in quarts, or some such.

Anyway, same results with new paint. Switched guns (3 different ones altogether - they are gravity HVLP with .018 tip) and same results with all guns and tips. It's the paint.

Question is: How can I get this paint to spray? I've been finishing and painting for many years and have enough experience, but this one is baffling me. Best spray comes at around 40 PSI or more but that atomizes the paint too fast and I get a dry over spray. Can't seem to get a nice wet coat evenly dispersed. Any ideas appreciated. TIA


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Sounds like the pigments aren't breaking down and mixing well. I've seen this happen in older paints. Something to be said for the paint shakers at the stores.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Windwood said:


> Hi everyone. Glad to find this forum and hope someone can answer some questions for me.
> 
> I currently have a job where I am installing two new entry doors. I decided to bring them to my shop for a spray painting job before installation to give them that A-1 appearance and because it's cold outside.
> 
> ...


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

ditto, latex enamels do not spray well through conventional equipment unless you increase the size of your nozzle, cap, and needle. You are probably set up for lacquer or clean finish now. You have to overly thin the material to get it to spray and cannot build enough mills. You will just have to more coats to build up the enamel.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Bigger tip. More fluid. You are over atomizing. (too much air in the mix)


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MikeCalifornia said:


> ditto, latex enamels do not spray well through conventional equipment unless you increase the size of your nozzle, cap, and needle. You are probably set up for lacquer or clean finish now. You have to overly thin the material to get it to spray and cannot build enough mills. You will just have to more coats to build up the enamel.


A good 5 stage can do straight up latex without breaking a sweat.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

vermontpainter said:


> A good 5 stage can do straight up latex without breaking a sweat.


He stated gravity HVLP, those are for automotive paints mainly. Not many guys have a five stage to start, the price freaks them out.


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## Windwood (Nov 12, 2012)

I don't do enough work for a five stage and my current type of guns have worked fine for many years. Granted, I mainly shoot lacquers and oils, but have shot many water base (latex and acrylic) over the years and never had this problem before. The SW acrylic bonding primer went down without a hitch. Matter of fact, it came out perfect.

I hear you about a bigger tip. I may have to see about that. What size would you recommend? I'm at .018 at present. Would .025 do the job?

Thanks for the replies.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Windwood said:


> I don't do enough work for a five stage and my current type of guns have worked fine for many years. Granted, I mainly shoot lacquers and oils, but have shot many water base (latex and acrylic) over the years and never had this problem before. The SW acrylic bonding primer went down without a hitch. Matter of fact, it came out perfect.
> 
> I hear you about a bigger tip. I may have to see about that. What size would you recommend? I'm at .018 at present. Would .025 do the job?
> 
> Thanks for the replies.


bonding primer is super thin to begin with, resielience is a much thicker high build exterior product. I only use airless and HVLP on a turbine, so for me a number 4 would be ideal, not sure on the decimal. Airless would be 315 for a door.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Use an airless sprayer with a fine finish tip 410 if using graco which you should if you desire a spitless tip. ASM spits bad...

No thinning of products & I recommend trying out PPG Mannor Hall or SW All Surface Enamel for doors. Resilliance & super paint are too soft & take too long to cure on doors. They are meant for walls really...


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Windwood said:


> Hi everyone. Glad to find this forum and hope someone can answer some questions for me.
> 
> I currently have a job where I am installing two new entry doors. I decided to bring them to my shop for a spray painting job before installation to give them that A-1 appearance and because it's cold outside.
> 
> ...


 Dont have spraying issues with sw, just paying issues!


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Your thinning it too much. I spray it straight out of the bucket with an airless. However, on doors I prefer SW All Surface Enamel (WB Satin). Sprays nice, dries fairly quick, lays down good, and leaves a nice durable finish.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Woodland said:


> Your thinning it too much. I spray it straight out of the bucket with an airless. However, on doors I prefer SW All Surface Enamel (WB Satin). Sprays nice, dries fairly quick, lays down good, and leaves a nice durable finish.


Nice to see somebody who Duz what I do-spray it straight from the can. All this thinning ratios, flow troll and whatever is a bunch of BS and waste of time and effort IMO.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Oden said:


> Nice to see somebody who Duz what I do-spray it straight from the can. All this thinning ratios, flow troll and whatever is a bunch of BS and waste of time and effort IMO.


 Exactly. These products were not meant to be thinned :no:


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

The thinning has everything to do with the equipment being used here, fellas. I have a low end hvlp that will only spray wb if thinned way down, otherwise it acts like I'm spraying orange peel. I don't use it for that though. I use an airless for wb.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

caulktheline said:


> The thinning has everything to do with the equipment being used here, fellas. I have a low end hvlp that will only spray wb if thinned way down, otherwise it acts like I'm spraying orange peel. I don't use it for that though. I use an airless for wb.


Exactly. I totally understand the need to reduce some materials when using certain applications. I also do not believe SW Super Paint is something that needs to be shot through an HVLP to begin with.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

Honestly, I would never own an hvlp in this day & age. Especially since all I use is wb paints. I only use a gravity fed (or diaphragm), fine finish pump. Using graco head & fine finish tips.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Custom Brush Co. said:


> Honestly, I would never own an hvlp in this day & age. Especially since all I use is wb paints. I only use a gravity fed (or diaphragm), fine finish pump. Using graco head & fine finish tips.


Hey Custom
Is that the aircoat you use? Does it have an aaa gun or airless gun? I have a 6 stage turbine hvlp, and have actually been using it a lot lately. I think ultimately airless is easier to use, less to think about, but as some have noted, it's kinda nice to use hvlp and not have to move your gun at 8,000,000 miles an hour while painting and not getting overspray everywhere. I love how quick it is to cleanup the cup gun. But definitely not for large jobs. If I did whole house NC or remodel painting i would get an aaa for sure.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

I'm rolling with an airless gun graco contractor (rac x). Using this pump. 

http://www.spraytechinc.com/portal/...hragm_pump_en_spraytechinc,301988,301161.html


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I apologize if this was answered already but Superpaint does come in quarts, including deep and ultra deep bases. Perhaps markets vary....


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

I sprayed some doors, no I tried to spray some doors with SW pro classic and HVLP had about the same problem switched to airless and came out good. But let me say it was a cheap HVLP. It just seemed like you had to thin it so much it ruined the effect.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Its the Hvlp, not the paint. Imo airless and fft is best for high quality results and efficient process.


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## george p (Nov 5, 2012)

nice rig cbc i like to see somebody who cleans the same way i do


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