# Maintaining brush life



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

How do you get more than one job from a set of brushes. With today's quick drying paints, once your brush dries out it is never the same. I have tried using Dawn dishwashing detergent, hand cleaner, and denatured alcohol in the cleaning process and nothing seems to help. Anyone had success with other cleaning methods?


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Don't let them dry out, throw them in a bucket of water when finished, clean them each night. Get one of these to clean with.

http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster_Painter_s_Comb_p/1831.htm


----------



## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I leave em wet. Always have. Never kick em out till the next day and then just a bit.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I'll soak them in lacquer thinner if they get that bad, not often necessary though.Toss them in water at the end of the day, clean out at the shop. Or just wrap em up for overnight. 

Chinex bristles make a Huge difference in ease of clean up.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Tap your brush instead of scraping it, clean it thoroughly each time when finished. Don't get paint up to the ferrule. You're right they're never quite new again but with a lot of TLC you can keep them for a long time. I usually leave them a bit damp when finished to keep the shape but don't pickle them completely like some others have stated. It breaks down the handle far too quickly.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

*bristles*

Do you have any trouble with the bristles flagging when you soak them?


Jmayspaint said:


> I'll soak them in lacquer thinner if they get that bad, not often necessary though.Toss them in water at the end of the day, clean out at the shop. Or just wrap em up for overnight.
> 
> Chinex bristles make a Huge difference in ease of clean up.


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

harmonicarocks said:


> Do you have any trouble with the bristles flagging when you soak them?



Not if they only soak for a few hrs or a day tops. After a soak and rinse, I shape them and put them back in keepers while still damp. . That way they dry in shape.


----------



## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

If you wet the brush and hand spin it out right before you start painting, it is a lot easier to clean later. Or use Chinex bristle brushes, or Proforms, they clean super easily.


----------



## Roof Cleaning (Jun 29, 2011)

We were soaking them in a bucket with some spirits.

But sometimes we don't paint for a day or two while out cleaning roofs etc.

The brush tips get bent 

I gotta get a system in place. The idahopainter on youtube has an unreal system in his box truck. He has clamps to clamp them to the wall so they don't bend and he color codes them for the work they are intended for.


----------



## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Jmayspaint said:


> Not if they only soak for a few hrs or a day tops. After a soak and rinse, I shape them and put them back in keepers while still damp. . That way they dry in shape.


I store mine in the original cardboard forms as well. I use Press N Seal (similar to saran wrap but much better) and just wrap them the moment I'm done with them...or if I want to just leave them and use them again on the same job the next day or two weeks later.


----------



## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)




----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


>


 
wtf is that thing?


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

chrisn said:


> wtf is that thing?


A brush carrier or caddy, it holds the brushes in the appropriate solvent. They've been getting harder and harder to find.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I used to use a brush box (as shown) for oil based brushes. Would leave the brushes hanging in thinner, but it got nasty quick. You know how old paint thinner starts to look, all weird. Not sure how they're supposed to be used, but my way didn't seem ideal. So glad to not use oil much anymore. Unfortunately our current job is oil satin impervo. Hope I still know how to use it. ;-)


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

harmonicarocks said:


> How do you get more than one job from a set of brushes. With today's quick drying paints, once your brush dries out it is never the same. I have tried using Dawn dishwashing detergent, hand cleaner, and denatured alcohol in the cleaning process and nothing seems to help. Anyone had success with other cleaning methods?


Are you a professional painter harmonicarocks? Don't buy those cheap brushes. Use real purdy (pro extra-dale 2.5), wooster (2.5 angle, thin profile), corona, pro form, miller, something pros use, and over $10 a piece as rule of thumb. Nylon polyester for latex paints, natural or white china bristle for oils, stains. Purdy Badger hair for some oil clear coats. Black china are crap now don't get those.


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ridesarize said:


> Are you a professional painter harmonicarocks? Don't buy those cheap brushes. Use real purdy (pro extra-dale 2.5), wooster (2.5 angle, thin profile), corona, pro form, miller, something pros use, and over $10 a piece as rule of thumb. Nylon polyester for latex paints, natural or white china bristle for oils, stains. Purdy Badger hair for some oil clear coats. Black china are crap now don't get those.


 
you have to ask that of someone who does not know how to take care of a brush?:blink:


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

chrisn said:


> you have to ask that of someone who does not know how to take care of a brush?:blink:


I figure maybe he'll get the clue... but then maybe not.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

I have been a pro painter for 22 years, and until the advent of low voc paints, using a little dishwashing liquid and wire brushing did the trick. That does not seem to cut it now, even with expensive brushes. Chinex brushes do clean out a little easier, but they just don't seem to cut as good a line. I use primarily Ben Moore Regal products, and Muralo Waterborne products.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Roof Cleaning said:


> We were soaking them in a bucket with some spirits.
> 
> But sometimes we don't paint for a day or two while out cleaning roofs etc.
> 
> ...


You're right it's unreal, it's like silly. Color coordinated handles, I have seen those videos and have respect for "idaho painters" but that is for painters with no mind. The holders are good.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

harmonicarocks said:


> I have been a pro painter for 22 years, and until the advent of low voc paints, using a little dishwashing liquid and wire brushing did the trick. That does not seem to cut it now, even with expensive brushes. Chinex brushes do clean out a little easier, but they just don't seem to cut as good a line. I use primarily Ben Moore Regal products, and Muralo Waterborne products.


Um sorry but it is so hard to believe when you ask how to make a "set" of brushes last longer than one project. I am hard on my brushes and they cut sharp interior or exterior lines when asked and last more than a year. And thats abusing them like back brushing rough cut cedar then using them for clear coats. Some of my brushes are 5 years old including block stainers that were used in arborcoat solid, and rubbol, left in water for 8 months, cleaned and used again.
What brushes do you go through in one project?


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

*lacquer thinner*

Thanks for the tip on the lacquer thinner, I just revived 6 three inch brushes I thought were gone. I soaked them for about 15 minutes, wire brushed them, and all the crud dissolved.


Jmayspaint said:


> I'll soak them in lacquer thinner if they get that bad, not often necessary though.Toss them in water at the end of the day, clean out at the shop. Or just wrap em up for overnight.
> 
> Chinex bristles make a Huge difference in ease of clean up.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

Sorry it took awhile to get back to you on this. I use primarily Wooster Super Pro, and occasionally Ultra Pro. Soaking them in the lacquer thinner like someone suggested worked like a charm. I've never really had a problem with oil brushes, gasoline works fine and is six dollars cheaper per gallon than paint thinner.


----------



## 97audia4 (Sep 10, 2013)

switch to new brush halfway through the day it helps a lot


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Chinex brushes and take 2 minutes to wash em before lunch.


----------



## bklynboy1970 (Oct 8, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> I figure maybe he'll get the clue... but then maybe not.


ive had my corona for 5 years!! And first thing I learned take care of my brushes... Just saying


----------



## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I am definitely a new believer in the Chinex brushes.
Proof that you _can_ teach an old dog new tricks. :yes:


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> I am definitely a new believer in the Chinex brushes.
> Proof that you can teach an old dog new tricks. :yes:


Try the SW contractor brand chinex if you haven't. Good brush for the price, a little softer then most other chinex.


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

bklynboy1970 said:


> ive had my corona for 5 years!! And first thing I learned take care of my brushes... Just saying


I hear ya. But I know I can't worry bout doing everything at once, usually have to be productive over keeping brush perfect, or hands clean, or clothes clean
Just bought a picasso 2.5 angle oval, short handle. Can't wait to use it..


----------



## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

harmonicarocks said:


> Sorry it took awhile to get back to you on this. I use primarily Wooster Super Pro, and occasionally Ultra Pro. Soaking them in the lacquer thinner like someone suggested worked like a charm. I've never really had a problem with oil brushes, gasoline works fine and is six dollars cheaper per gallon than paint thinner.


My first comp I worked for used gas,... that sucks I'm sorry


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Don't let the brush dry and you can use it until the bristles get blown out and short. lol. Another funny thread.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

Thanks, I will give that one a try, the Wooster Chinex are too stiff for my liking.


MIZZOU said:


> Try the SW contractor brand chinex if you haven't. Good brush for the price, a little softer then most other chinex.


----------



## harmonicarocks (Nov 29, 2013)

I consider myself more of an old CAT. Its hard to change your ways once you get used to something.


slinger58 said:


> I am definitely a new believer in the Chinex brushes.
> Proof that you _can_ teach an old dog new tricks. :yes:


----------



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

MIZZOU said:


> Try the SW contractor brand chinex if you haven't. Good brush for the price, a little softer then most other chinex.



Are you talking about the Purdy chinex they sell at SW or something else? 

That's my one beef with the Coronas, the chinex are stiff, the Tyvec nylons are soft, but nothing in between.


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Are you talking about the Purdy chinex they sell at SW or something else?
> 
> That's my one beef with the Coronas, the chinex are stiff, the Tyvec nylons are soft, but nothing in between.


Pretty sure it's a SW contractor series chinex but I could be wrong. I'll check the van later, snows keeping me in the house right now


----------



## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

harmonicarocks said:


> I consider myself more of an old CAT. Its hard to change your ways once you get used to something.


Yeah, I'm a great believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". But I've tried some of the new products that have been "PT tested" and have been pleased with the results.:thumbsup:


----------



## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Are you talking about the Purdy chinex they sell at SW or something else?
> 
> That's my one beef with the Coronas, the chinex are stiff, the Tyvec nylons are soft, but nothing in between.












It's actually a chinex/poly blend


----------



## Mike2coat (Nov 12, 2013)

The Purdy brush rep from SW told me use a brush comb and a little dish soap and that's what I do, weather at the job site or when I get home, then I hang them to dry before I put the cover back on. I don't soak in water if I do it's for the trip home.


----------



## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

I'm in the land of texture, but my lifespan for a brush is this:

Interior
Brand new-->Use it on trim for 2-4 jobs until the cut ins start to get difficult-->Use it on drywall cut ins for 2-4 jobs until it doesn't seem to be holding paint as well-->use it as a duster (for awhile) or (exterior) stain brush and throw it away when the job is over. 

Exterior
Brand New-->Use it on trim until the cut ins start to take more time-->use it as a duster (for awhile) or touch-up brush or (exterior) stain brush and throw it away when the job is over.

Why some of you are trying to make a brush last years is beyond me. Sometimes I think I should just buy a new brush for every job.


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I don't get as attached as I used to.


----------



## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> I don't get as attached as I used to.


Yeah. This myth about a brush should last a lifetime is fine if you only paint once or twice in your life. Also, if you brushes lasted forever you'd never have the joy of buying a new brush! Love that new brush feeling!


----------



## Mike2coat (Nov 12, 2013)

MIZZOU said:


> It's actually a chinex/poly blend


Nice


----------

