# Metal railings



## RR60 (Jul 26, 2012)

About the only thing left that I use an oil base paint for is metal porch railings.

Just always use Rustoleum for these.

Anyone compared the durability with any of the new acrylic coatings.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

If it gets lots of people using it I dont think acrylic would hold up. I have yet to find an acrylic that will hold up to hand oils long term.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Honestly oil sucks!! It is a pain to use, clean up, and it chalks real fast outdoors. I have had no issues with the urethane alkyds from SW or DE.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

MikeCalifornia said:


> Honestly oil sucks!! It is a pain to use, clean up, and it chalks real fast outdoors. I have had no issues with the urethane alkyds from SW or DE.


 You must be referring to the waterborne Alkyds,(AKA Hybrid) as to not confuse anyone..?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jacob33 said:


> If it gets lots of people using it I dont think acrylic would hold up. I have yet to find an acrylic that will hold up to hand oils long term.



urethane acrylics. new int/ext corotech product in a few months


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Sherwin Williams Corothane*



cocomonkeynuts said:


> urethane acrylics. new int/ext corotech product in a few months


coco, a couple of years ago I did a job at Marina Towers in Chicago where I had to scrape, prime and paint black railings and a balcony divider. The association had madatory products that had to be used. The primer was Corothane I Mio-Aluminum, a product which can serve both as a primer for badly rusted substrates as well as a finish coat. This product had to be applied the same day as the iron/steel metal railings and divider were tooled to avoid too much oxidation. Once the can was opened, I had 7 days to use it before it was toast:

https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/en...cal-services-repository/details/coroprime.pdf

After everything was primed with Mio_Aluminum stuff, I had to apply a black coating which I believe was the following product (Corothane I HS Aliphatic Resin Coating), which also had to be used within 7 days after opening the can:

https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/en...al-services-repository/details/corofinish.pdf

Both primer and finish cost about 125.00 each and the exotic primer I had to use was almost as expensive.

All this work was done on a balcony 25 stories up with Chicago (Windy City) ventilation. Even so, the fumes were wicked!

For one man, this was a job from hell. It really needs a crew to get all the tooling (scraping loose paint and rust) done as fast as possible so that the scraped areas can be primed before leaving the job for the day. It was almost as bad as having a customer (I was going to say woman, but I won't) tell me both what to do and how to do it!

After doing a little research on rusted railings, I found that there is a chemical that can be wiped onto lightly rusted metal that will convert the iron oxide to a stable oxide that is black and that can serve as a primer for a top coat.

I am curious as to what the best approach would be for prepping, priming and painting metal railings other than what I did at Marina Towers!!!

futtyos


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

futtyos said:


> coco, a couple of years ago I did a job at Marina Towers in Chicago where I had to scrape, prime and paint black railings and a balcony divider. The association had madatory products that had to be used. The primer was Corothane I Mio-Aluminum, a product which can serve both as a primer for badly rusted substrates as well as a finish coat. This product had to be applied the same day as the iron/steel metal railings and divider were tooled to avoid too much oxidation. Once the can was opened, I had 7 days to use it before it was toast:
> 
> https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/en...cal-services-repository/details/coroprime.pdf
> 
> ...


I recall a post you made about those railings...

Best approach is to blast, and use the same products you did. Mastic epoxy/urethane and aliphatic urethane top coat are pretty much the Cadillac of finishing systems.


As far as a minimal prep, less toxic system and less expensive system: 

scrape and wire wheel. prime with a 100% solids penetrating epoxy primer like v155. Top coat with a alkyd/urethane enamel like rust scat or P22. Alternatively top coat dtm acrylic or that new corotech product I'm looking forward to trying.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Waterborne DTM has always worked great for me. If it doesnt hold up as long as oil, its job security. I can attest that rustoleum is better than most other industrial one part enamels though. The black rustoleum stripe on my van has outlasted two body paint jobs, one of which was PPG aquachron, the other was as an oil based industrial, I forget the name of offhand.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> You must be referring to the waterborne Alkyds,(AKA Hybrid) as to not confuse anyone..?



No totally different. The exterior product are triple resin, with urethane. The hybrids are more like SW Proclassic interior, alkyd-acrylic.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

MikeCalifornia said:


> No totally different. The exterior product are triple resin, with urethane. The hybrids are more like SW Proclassic interior, alkyd-acrylic.


So when you say "Oil", you mean the real "Oil"..


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> So when you say "Oil", you mean the real "Oil"..



No, all alkyds are synthetic, just like car oil


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## AnthonyFalzon (Feb 24, 2020)

I'm really not sure on this one.


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## noahenholm (Jun 27, 2021)

If you’re dealing with heavily rusted metal, this Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer with anti-rust properties is the one for you. It provides a protective layer that will ward off the present and future rust issues.


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