# SW deckscapes sealer & stain stripper



## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

I am looking to restain a couple old decks that have a combination of solid stains and semi's and sealers on them. I would probably use the SW deckscapes line w/ the stripper then revive then deckscapes solid. All of the decks are surrounded by shrubs and ornamental planting beds. The product data sheet for the stripper says that it could damage plants. I would cover the plants with plastic to avoid overspray, but I am wondering if that stuff is so strong that it will damage the plants when it is rinsed of the deck surface and absorbed into the ground near the plants. Any one have experience with the SW sealer & stain stripper and plants?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Yeah decks are fun.

I usually only do new decks. But when I've used bleach cleaners on them around plants, I just make sure to rinse very well to dilute the solution after cleaning.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Joe, Commercially available stripper is weak. A simple wet down of plants and constant rinsing is fine.

More importantly, I guess I would ask why you are using a stripper? I am assuming the solid is the last/top finish. If that is the case, a bleach cleaning and re-coat is all you need. 

If your plan is to use crap stripper from a paint store to remove a solid, you are going to lose your shirt and make a customer very unhappy.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

PressurePros said:


> Joe, Commercially available stripper is weak. A simple wet down of plants and constant rinsing is fine.
> 
> More importantly, I guess I would ask why you are using a stripper? I am assuming the solid is the last/top finish. If that is the case, a bleach cleaning and re-coat is all you need.
> 
> If your plan is to use crap stripper from a paint store to remove a solid, you are going to lose your shirt and make a customer very unhappy.


Well put! I'm still pretty blown away and have a healthy respect for Powersolve.


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## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks for replies. I Definetily want to do quality work and want to keep my shirt on. The decks I am looking at stripping have clear sealers, semi's, and one has a solid and a semi oil on it...I guess when the solid was failing they decided to put a semi on top of it. Water is not readily absorbed on 40-50% of the surfaces. I am recoating a few with a clear sealer and the ones with solid on them I am going to use a solid again. When I spoke with the SW rep he recommended using deckscapes stripper then revive or I would have a problem with adhesion.


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

yep i used both products u need to wet down all plants and shrubs real good but you should be good to go dont waste time covering ive never had a problem yet :whistling2:


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

I am hopefully going to save you a ton of heartache. Do a test sample on the deck with the store junk. If it doesn't work, pm me. If there is an oil on there, you will have no problems. If its an acrylic waterborne semi-trans and it has life to it, you will probably have to strip it three or four times unless you use a pro stripper. You know to follow stripper with an acid to pH balance and brighten?


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## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks, I will try a test spot. You gots me nervous now. I though I had done good research on this by talking to my SW rep and researching. These products aren't going to do the trick? Thanks for the help

Stripper

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...gs/deck_products/surface_preparation_cleanup/

Clean and PH balance

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...gs/deck_products/surface_preparation_cleanup/


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Listen to him Joe I think he's trying to help you out...:yes:


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

joe2 said:


> Thanks, I will try a test spot. You gots me nervous now. I though I had done good research on this by talking to my SW rep and researching. These products aren't going to do the trick? Thanks for the help
> 
> Stripper
> 
> ...


Okay good, that is the right combo. I wasn't sure if Deckscapes recommended that. I'm giving this product a hard time because it is watered down and expensive. They have to keep the homeowner/DIY market in mind when they sell strippers. What I would recommend to you is going to be the same style of caustic, sodium hydroxide based stripper, only in pro form which is much cheaper to use. 

Decks in the northeast are bad because oils were banned so long ago due to VOC restrictions that just about every deck I encounter has an acrylic. I am not trying to scare you just tryin' to make sure you know what you are getting into.


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## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks, I got you now. Yeah, that stuff is spendy for what it is. I am interested.

So are you using a product or are you just mixing your own formula of NaOH and water. If your making your own, what ratio are you using? Where do you get the NaOH? What are you applying to balance out the ph level? Are you using a formula/ration in your balancing agent that is directly related to the ratio/formula of your NaOH/water mix?


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

joe2 said:


> Thanks, I got you now. Yeah, that stuff is spendy for what it is. I am interested.
> 
> So are you using a product or are you just mixing your own formula of NaOH and water. If your making your own, what ratio are you using? Where do you get the NaOH? What are you applying to balance out the ph level? Are you using a formula/ration in your balancing agent that is directly related to the ratio/formula of your NaOH/water mix?


I do have my own made now but have used a product called HD-80 that would serve you well. My stripper contains sodium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate, butyl cellosolve and a surfactant package that is easy to rinse. For acid, (pH balancer) nothing more fancy than oxalic acid and surfactant.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

PressurePros said:


> I do have my own made now but have used a product called HD-80 that would serve you well. My stripper contains sodium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate, butyl cellosolve and a surfactant package that is easy to rinse. For acid, (pH balancer) nothing more fancy than oxalic acid and surfactant.


Ken, your knowledge of products/chemicals always amazes me.:notworthy:
Thanks for being a great resource.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

RCP said:


> Ken, your knowledge of products/chemicals always amazes me.:notworthy:
> Thanks for being a great resource.


No problem, Chris. I secretly suck you painters dry for my DIY projects ;-)


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## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks Pressurepros for sharing your knowledge! I have been qouting a bunch more deck jobs and it is interesting how each deck depending on it's condition and product on it requires a different approach, some owners are very particular about the cleaners being used, etc. As I have been researching products and googling I keep coming across pressurepros helpful info...you should write a book on the subject, seriously. Anyway thanks again!


The first few decks stripped easy with the sherwin williams product, but on the last deck the sw product didn't do the trick. This deck has a semi solid over a solid acrylic. This is definetily a novice questions.....but, I am correct in thinking that I cannot apply any type of solid (oil or acrylic)over this deck and I need to strip because of the semi s over the solid?


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## joe2 (Mar 10, 2011)

joe2 said:


> This is definetily a novice questions.....but, I am correct in thinking that I cannot apply any type of solid (oil or acrylic)over this deck and I need to strip because of the semi s over the solid?


So for ****s and giggles I called around today to ask this question.

I asked this question to 3 folks working at paint section at different box stores. One said just powerwash and then scuff the surface with some heavy grit sandbpaper and a solid oil stain would work. Another said just clean it with some bleach and water and a powerwash and an acrylic or an oil would work. The third said powerwash then apply an oil primer then oil or acrylic stain. 

I called 2 Sherwin williams stores and one said they needed to be stripped off and use either acrylic or oil. The other SW said sprinkle some water on the surface and if it beads up then you need to strip, but if it soaks in then just wash with deck wash and then apply acrylic.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

PressurePros said:


> I do have my own made now but have used a product called HD-80 that would serve you well. My stripper contains sodium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate, butyl cellosolve and a surfactant package that is easy to rinse. For acid, (pH balancer) nothing more fancy than oxalic acid and surfactant.


 
Ken how strong would you mix your formula for stripping a semi transparent oil/acrylic hybrid stain on siding. I have one I need to strip and I do not think the store brands will do it. I can get all those ingredients easily enough or would you recomend just buying the hd-80


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## finaltouch0 (Jul 14, 2011)

PressurePros said:


> Joe, Commercially available stripper is weak. A simple wet down of plants and constant rinsing is fine.
> 
> More importantly, I guess I would ask why you are using a stripper? I am assuming the solid is the last/top finish. If that is the case, a bleach cleaning and re-coat is all you need.
> 
> If your plan is to use crap stripper from a paint store to remove a solid, you are going to lose your shirt and make a customer very unhappy.


Ditto


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

jacob33 said:


> Ken how strong would you mix your formula for stripping a semi transparent oil/acrylic hybrid stain on siding. I have one I need to strip and I do not think the store brands will do it. I can get all those ingredients easily enough or would you recomend just buying the hd-80


I try to always answer as directly as I can but I could only give you an educated guess. I would recommend just using a ready made product. It took me quite a few years to get formulas that work. Not only that, when you are using these types of chem on houses you should have an MSDS and manufacturer's liability policies to c.y.a.

As for strength.. 
Test the area where it will be hardest and is most protected from the elements. Under a soffit or under a window sill. Do several areas to get a feel for how strong you would have to make it. Anything with acrylic in it can throw you a curve ball. 80% will wash right off and that remaining 20% can take you three times as long as the rest of the house. 

I used to carry around a little kit that had 25%, 50% and 100% mixes in spray bottles. That was the only way I could give someone a work order for the job and not expect ten calls on job day. Eventually I learned what to look for but that took awhile.


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