# Flow Coating Trays



## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

In a minute I will post phone pics of the trays I build for containing and recycling our paint while we are flow coating in the field.

First thing, I am wondering what type of caulk would be totally impervious to mineral spirits even when its soaking in there for days on end. So far I have used different construction adhesives such as PL 200/400. They work ok, but the paint running through slowly eats at it and over a day or two I will start developing leaks in the tray. FYI, I put a solid bead of glue between the 2x4 and the plywood and also vertically at each corner connection.

Second thing, I'm looking for some coating that would have a similar effect as the Hydrophobic coatings DW is talking about, but only that would work with oil paint and thinner. I am even considering trying something like TWP, but not sure how long it would take to break down if completely submerged in oil paint or thinner. The problem I am running into is that by the end of the day there is a decent amount of paint stuck to the bottom and sides that is cured too well to come off. So we leave it. But a couple weeks later when it is fully cured, it will start releasing itself from the wood (lifting/bending the tray) and then u got all sorts of debris going and plugging the pump.

Pics to follow


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)




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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

So you can see how the paint starts chipping off big time. That is pretty much the only reason I end up having to build new trays for every job. If I have bunch of transformer work and I can keep em wet almost every day, then they work for a long time. But as soon as they sit for a week, then I have to start by building new ones again.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You could just install luan over the peeling paint and just use PL and some weights until it sets. You could probably seal the peeling stuff down pretty easy that way.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

straight_lines said:


> You could just install luan over the peeling paint and just use PL and some weights until it sets. You could probably seal the peeling stuff down pretty easy that way.


Yeah.... But the tray will start getting pretty heavy for carrying.... Plus the glue would just be stuck to loose paint anyway. Or it would become loose paint after flexing the tray a bit.

Does anyone know if silicone is totally insoluble in mineral spirits? Im thinking bout sealing the seams with silicone might be worth a shot.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I'm thinking forget caulk altogether and think 'gasket'. Use? Whatever maybe some old tire tubes or hose maybe. Something along that line. 

Really. For a ongoing concern can't you get somebody to weld u up some nice pans? Custom. Maybe it would have a drain and all. And a stand. Stainless I'm thinking. Haha I'll spend ur money.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Oden said:


> I'm thinking forget caulk altogether and think 'gasket'. Use? Whatever maybe some old tire tubes or hose maybe. Something along that line.
> 
> Really. For a ongoing concern can't you get somebody to weld u up some nice pans? Custom. Maybe it would have a drain and all. And a stand. Stainless I'm thinking. Haha I'll spend ur money.


Ardy went down that road. We got our own welders etc... Paint still accumulates on the side and as soon as you twist/flex/torque the tray u get paint chips popping loose and plugging the pump. By the time u build it heavy enuf not to flex, it weighs 300+ lbs. Too heavy for movin by hand for some of the guys.

Gasketing.... Crankcase sealant maybe. Or RTV silicone....


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

A stand would be nice, but not practical. Sometimes the radiators are a foot off the ground and sometimes theyre 5 feet. So we bring a big assortment of timbers and misc size wood blocks. Stack em up and slope it toward the intake tube. Or just temporarily screw a 2x4 leg at each corner at the height needed.


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