# To tape a crack or not



## Dave Mac (May 4, 2007)

I have used all types of tapes for sheetrock cracks, and it seems to me if they are going to recrack, it really doesnt matter what type of tape you use. So why bother using any tape at all????? what are your thoughts??

thanks
dave


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I think it depends on the source of the crack. For example, a structural stress crack will continue to crack if the source is not addressed through engineering methods like shoring up a floor joist, or repairing a water leak. Other cracks may have occurred from a single event like shrinkage from moist lumber, ground movement, or weakend fasteners. Fiberglass tape, for instance, will hold up quite well against normal expansion and contraction provided the source is mitigated.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have a doorway in my house where there are three different hairline cracks on different corners. I taped one (fiberglass), only mudded one, and filled with a bead of caulk and wiped clean on another. There are all still visible and the taped one looks the worst because as it moves slightly with the seasons, it has puckered the mesh tape out. The mud only crack has returned as a normal hairline crack. The caulked one looks the best, you can still see the crack if you look close but it has not re-opened.


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## evgeni (Feb 4, 2010)

Dave Mac said:


> I have used all types of tapes for sheetrock cracks, and it seems to me if they are going to recrack, it really doesnt matter what type of tape you use. So why bother using any tape at all????? what are your thoughts??
> 
> thanks
> dave


hi, guys! I need some help. don't know how to use the forum, so I apologize for any misunderstandings!
here is the trouble: yesterday I sprayed varnish with a gun. it came out very well. today I sprayed again, but hundreds of little bubbles entered the layer. I changed nothing, everything the same as it was yesterday. what could be the problem today?
thanks!
evgeni


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## evgeni (Feb 4, 2010)

*troubles with air spraying with a gravity gun*

hi, guys! I need some help. don't know how to use the forum, so I apologize for any misunderstandings!
here is the trouble: yesterday I sprayed varnish with a gun. it came out very well. today I sprayed again, but hundreds of little bubbles entered the layer. I changed nothing, everything the same as it was yesterday. what could be the problem today?
thanks!
evgeni


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Mods?


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## Woody (Jan 7, 2010)

Use Durobond on small cracks... They have products that dry, at different times (5min, 20 min, 45 min.,... )
Do use tap..it is the right thing to do !

It is a procces...It will take two, to three coats of "mud", to develop a great finish.

If you have no idea what I'm saying... ask a pro to give you an est.

Hopefully, I was kind and offered some good advice.



Stay Frosty


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I also find that applying a fast drying primer, prior to tape and patching, helps reduce any future tape lifting. However, it will always crack if there is enough stress. 

As far as fiber glass verses paper tape, applying an adequate amount of mud under the tape helps secure it better. The old timers used to tell me to open up the crack even furthur to allow more mud to bridge the crack. With that said, I know better then to offer obvious suggestions to our professional members, so I must now return to obscurity in my fortress of solitude. Good day!


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

This actually brings up a good question outside of standard or obvious procedures. Is their a joint compound or spackling of some type that is more 'elastic' than others? Something that would tolerate some joint movement to accommodate minor stress cracks?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Tonyg said:


> This actually brings up a good question outside of standard or obvious procedures. Is their a joint compound or spackling of some type that is more 'elastic' than others? Something that would tolerate some joint movement to accommodate minor stress cracks?


Good point. I have used a trowel grade elastomeric, but never as an interior crack repair solutuon. It would be difficult to sand, so you'd better have really good patching techniques.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

spot prime the crack with exterior duration with a whizz roller, lol

(ive never done this, but what the heck, sounds interesting. dean, try this over your door also


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I have been a huge proponent of mesh tape as I have never seen it lift like paper tape. HOWEVER, I have been informed by pro mudders that paper will not re-crack like mesh does. Think about it. The paper bridges the crack and if the crack moves a bit, the paper will not crack. Whereas the nature of the mesh will allow the mud to crack if subjected to just a little shift. 

I was also told that paper lifts because of improper installation - not enough mud under it.


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## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

Well with plaster crack it a little more difficult to eliminate them. What I've found that works is digging the crack out (V shape) and filling it back in with struct-o-lite and tape it with ultra-thin mesh, mud it and your good to go.


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## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

and Bill whats up with you guys in MA voting for Scott Brown. LOL


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Sorry Diversers, no politics allowed, but I do have a great explanation for it that actually doesn't harp on any political stance.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I do alot of plaster repair, and feel this applies to rock also but is harder to do.
You must stop the movement. Put some screws around the cracked area - in plaster into the lathe and resecure it. More important than the tape.


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## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

Bill I respect you, regardless of your political stance, and I would like to here your opinion on what happen. @ Bushjockey to make it easier I use a small ax, and cut out the crack.


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## slapiton (Jul 28, 2007)

I repaired some cracks in a surgeons house about a year and a half ago and got called back 3 months later for the same cracks. The surgeon and I was talking about the cracks and he told me I don't know if the same works for drywall but when operate on people I remove the old tissue before I sew them up, if not it will not heal right. I took this in consideration and went and cut the crack out from stud to stud and put a new piece of drywall in and 3 coats of mud and paint and have not heard anything back in about a year. It must still be holding because I know he would have called. Just something to think about.


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## MaizeandBluePainter (May 7, 2008)

*crack repair*

Tape peels off because of inadequate moisture, which can happen sometimes even when you have a lot of mud behind the tape. It's usually more of a problem with plaster because it sucks the moisture away from the new mud. 

After you clean out the crack, spritz it with water. Then take the piece of tape to the nearest sink and soak it under the faucet. It won't tear, no matter how wet you get it. After you throw some mud on the crack, you can stick the tape right down and it won't move while you complete the patch. Guaranteed not to peel or bubble. 

Also, dry mix is better for repairing cracks than the premix stuff. If you use paper tape and Durabond 90, you get about the strongest patch possible.

I usually skip the tape if the crack is on the wall close to the ceiling and there's no hope of leveling the patch; in that case I just fill the crack with Durabond and sand it. 

I've used caulk to fill cracks that "appeared" after prepwork was finished and the first coat of paint was underway.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

durabond is badass. I know in the midwest where I'm at, theres alot of clay under these houses. Every house gets cracks in corner bead and elsewhere after 10+ years no matter what. Theres no way to stop houses from shifting around here, and its compounded by the extreme seasons temp swings. 20 below zero in Jan, 100+ in July. It keeps some riffraff out, at least during the winter, they all go down south.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

what brushjockey said.. you have to eliminate the movement. Go out from the crack 3' or more to stop the movement with screws.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

nEighter said:


> what brushjockey said.. you have to eliminate the movement. Go out from the crack 3' or more to stop the movement with screws.


:no::no::no:

As painters we are not responsible for fixing structural problems. You can screw, double and tripple mesh and durabond all you want and most cracks will come back. The only way to make them disappear is to paper tape and durabond. The crack will pop again but it will do so under the paper and will not be visable.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Stupid cracks.


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## mblosik (Jan 3, 2009)

Dave Mac said:


> I have used all types of tapes for sheetrock cracks, and it seems to me if they are going to recrack, it really doesnt matter what type of tape you use. So why bother using any tape at all????? what are your thoughts??
> 
> thanks
> dave



hey dave--
if it is a problem area, i do the following: 
caulk crack with the BIg Stretch caulk. http://www.sashcosealants.com/home_improvement/Big_Stretch.aspx
fiberglass mesh tape over caulk
3 coats of 45 minute set.

my employee calls me Captain OVerkill, but i don't like going back to fix problems several times. :thumbsup:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

mblosik said:


> hey dave--
> 
> 
> 3 coats of 45 minute set.
> ...


that is alot of coats. But probably better than one. I wonder where the line is on this. I try to educate my customers that they probably will show up again after awhile, and there isn't many options except to replace that part of the wall.


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