# Priming spackle on trim



## BigDogPainting (Apr 13, 2011)

I know all of you paint talk guys say to prime the preprimed and I do in some cases, but not this one. I am looking at a job right now where preprimed baseboards and casings will be installed. I need to spackle and sand all of the finish nail holes. So my question is should i just spackle, sand, and spot prime with a brush or should I just dip the airless and spray prime all of the baseboards and casings. Since I am spraying finish coat on all the trim the place will be prepped to spray. Also, what primers do you guys like for interior spot priming to reduce the chances of flashing?


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

BigDogPainting said:


> I know all of you paint talk guys say to prime the preprimed and I do in some cases, but not this one. I am looking at a job right now where preprimed baseboards and casings will be installed. I need to spackle and sand all of the finish nail holes. So my question is should i just spackle, sand, and spot prime with a brush or should I just dip the airless and spray prime all of the baseboards and casings. Since I am spraying finish coat on all the trim the place will be prepped to spray. Also, what primers do you guys like for interior spot priming to reduce the chances of flashing?



If you're already spotpriming, and prepping to spray, just spray a good coat of primer on there.

I usually use bullseye 123 or coverstain, occasionally bullseye will allow some stuff to come right through even on brand new trim so lately I have been using coverstain more and more.

Up in Canada our selection sucks compared to the US though, where there are many other options.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Spackle? I always open a can of this before I spackle


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

One the job I am working on now- I inquired into what the company used who supplies our wood...with- MDF-waterbased primer(and this was not a pretty smooth look..it seems to rewet itself )

and the rest of the trim is poplar- and they used a catalzyed oil primer- so it painted out really nice.....I used pro classic from SW and it looked sprayed.

I used a wood filler after the trim was installed...sanded it or wet ragged it gently off so the holes would not go concave looking...and I am spot priming with bin(waterbased)...and recoat with Proclassic.

so far so good.

mdf is turning out better than I thought after the install-

With the nature of how this new construction project unfolds OR NOT----I have only sprayed the ceilings...everything else is being done by brush and roll----more time consuming yes!


I guess the answer to your question is based on what your job looks like do you have time to recoat all the primer and if so.......it would probably be a good idea to scuff sand it first.....
next time around, I am gonna insist that the trim gets installed and then I paint all the trim by spraying.......

that is my two cents-


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

We used to do some spackling on high,high end new construction,what we did was mix Synkaloids and another brand of spackle,cant remember it's name,might have been Crawfords,but it had a green label on it I know that.

We would mix it heavy on the green label spackle and apply it to all nail holes,overfilled slightly,let it dry real good,then sand it down,flush.

Then we would prime everything in Lacquer Undercoater,at least 3 times,sanding after the 1st coat,sometimes we'd flood it on the jambs and window casings,never flood the baseboards or crown molding,just the Jambs.

Then before the last coat of LU wwe'd get lights out and light check all the holes but with Crawford's painters putty,1 more coat of LU,then your ready for final sand and finish coats(s)


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

If I can spray instead of brush I do. 

If it's a high end home (and you budgeted for it) sand first, (gets out the raised crown from the nail being driven in) fill, sand again, prime.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

robladd said:


> Spackle? I always open a can of this before I spackle


I'm the opposite. I'll go for the spackle. I don't trust oil base under acrylic top coatings.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Spackle sinks.

No good.


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> Spackle sinks.
> 
> No good.


Not the shrink free spackle from SW.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

One Coat Coverage said:


> Not the shrink free spackle from SW.


Sinks, not shrinks. We fill thousands of nails a week and have tried everything under the sun. Spackle sinks, flashes and there are better products out there if you choose to fill/sand nail holes. 

Try Crackshot. :thumbsup: Much heavier, thicker and a more solid consistency. Use like spackle. Pre sand, fill, sand. Considerably less sinking and less to re-fill after priming.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

spackle,then 2nd coat with red topping compound...prime with Stix.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> Sinks, not shrinks. We fill thousands of nails a week and have tried everything under the sun. Spackle sinks, flashes and there are better products out there if you choose to fill/sand nail holes.
> 
> Try Crackshot. :thumbsup: Much heavier, thicker and a more solid consistency. Use like spackle. Pre sand, fill, sand. Considerably less sinking and less to re-fill after priming.


I agree with NEPS. Crackshot works great. 
Sands very easy and leaves a nice smooth surface, does not flash, and is fairly inexpensive. It is my go to for most all small patch jobs.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Troll time: how many of these questions do we get per year? I want JP to brief us on his one-fill technique again.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Lambrecht said:


> I agree with NEPS. Crackshot works great.
> Sands very easy and leaves a nice smooth surface, does not flash, and is fairly inexpensive. It is my go to for most all small patch jobs.



Caution 
DAP CrackShot contains the following: 
Calcium Carbonate, Clay, Mica, Ethylene Glycol, Crystalline Silica and Diethanolamine 

The user is advised to wear a respiratory mask and to wet sand when necessary to reduce inhaled dust. We are warned that “over exposure may cause adverse kidney, cardiovascular and liver effects.” Just how much exposure is over exposure? How adverse are these “effects”?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> Troll time: how many of these questions do we get per year? I want JP to brief us on his one-fill technique again.


It will take years to get that tidbit out of him.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

crawfords on base two coats glazing putty anywhere you can catch the sheen, prime any way you like, and two top coats


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

Nice reminder Josey wales about the ingredients. thanks

Now I am off for coffee and not get sucked into paint talk....debates, crack fillers, lewd comments.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

JoseyWales said:


> Caution
> DAP CrackShot contains the following:
> Calcium Carbonate, Clay, Mica, Ethylene Glycol, Crystalline Silica and Diethanolamine
> 
> The user is advised to wear a respiratory mask and to wet sand when necessary to reduce inhaled dust. We are warned that “over exposure may cause adverse kidney, cardiovascular and liver effects.” Just how much exposure is over exposure? How adverse are these “effects”?


Blasphemy


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

JoseyWales said:


> Caution
> DAP CrackShot contains the following:
> Calcium Carbonate, Clay, Mica, Ethylene Glycol, Crystalline Silica and Diethanolamine
> 
> The user is advised to wear a respiratory mask and to wet sand when necessary to reduce inhaled dust. We are warned that “over exposure may cause adverse kidney, cardiovascular and liver effects.” Just how much exposure is over exposure? How adverse are these “effects”?


You can brush with it, but I wouldn't recommend swallowing.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> Try Crackshot. :thumbsup: Much heavier, thicker and a more solid consistency. Use like spackle. Pre sand, fill, sand. Considerably less sinking and less to re-fill after priming.


Best product I've found too. Also, after working around the US, I've seen its regional as far as products and techiniques. In Texas everyone used Crawfords putty in the orange can and finger puttied. I went to Vegas and it was the same product, but everyone used a putty knife with no finger puttying. Up here its all spackle and many stores dont even carry putty. Anyway, whats the big deal? Prep the trim pack and move on.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I use to agree with Chris on the subject of spackle - but _I've come full circle, I tried spackle from the folks that invented it - and it's absolute best product out there._


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> I use to agree with Chris on the subject of spackle - but _I've come full circle, I tried spackle from the folks that invented it - and it's absolute best product out there._


Glad to see you are painting again, Dan.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Don't worry, Scott, only extremely small jobs - and only when I get suckered into 'em. Some ceilings here, a little trim there and some peeling sections along with a deck restoration - and lately mostly my own home, where I am repainting all the walls.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> Don't worry, Scott, only extremely small jobs - and only when I get suckered into 'em. Some ceilings here, a little trim there and some peeling sections along with a deck restoration - and lately mostly my own home, where I am repainting all the walls.


It'll grow!


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## bwpainting (Jun 1, 2011)

I like to use elmers wood filler applied with a putty knife, slightly over fill hole and sand. I generally prime after but noticed when filling holes on shoe molding and one coating it did not flash like spackle.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> Don't worry, Scott, only extremely small jobs - and only when I get suckered into 'em. Some ceilings here, a little trim there and some peeling sections along with a deck restoration - and lately mostly my own home, where I am repainting all the walls.


Glad you are doing other stuff as well dan because I would starve to death on that schedule.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Sean - I've always done a 'potpourri' of work. I've always been disappointed in myself in scheduling a bunch of exteriors, interiors, decks, washing - I don't have the midas touch. But - I've been pretty good at scheduling a lot of different kind of jobs. Sometimes I bid an interior - and then I get a ceiling replacement, I can install blueboard and veneer plaster - and although most folks would think I am overpriced on just a plain vanilla repaint - or going against a bunch of hardcore plasterer crews. But when it comes to folks who aren't interested in seeking out multiple contractors who specialize in one thing - I can usually get these jobs and make folks happy. Heck - I even installed crown moulding with the last ceiling - how many painters can do that?


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