# Phillip Jeffries Wallcoverings



## Colour Republic

One for the paperhangers out there.

Got a job coming up with a number of Phillip Jeffries wallcoverings, just wondered what the prices were like on your side of the pond?

Take say this one

3536 - Lead - Metallic paper weave

If anybody has easy access to some prices that would be great. Trying to weigh up oif ity's worth importing rather than getting it locally. My guess is it's not but worth doing the math.

Thanks in advance if you can help


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## daArch

Prices per bolt? Have no idea. I do not buy the product, customer or designer does.

As to installing. I usually balance all these types of paper, so when you estimate amount, take that into account. HOWEVER, one of the paper weaves I installed last spring (not one of the metallics), the seams barely showed, but I was glad I did balance even though it was almost unnecessary. 

I would estimate as if it were a grass cloth or other natural fiber material. 

I can't remember if I have hung one of the metallic paper weaves, I thought I did, but since I do not remember it as being special, the install was predictable - like a natural fiber. Hang it clean, keep paste off the surface.


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## Colour Republic

Yeah sorry Bill I mean price per bolt or yard. I think that one comes in 12 yard bolts.

From what i've read on PT It seems paper hangers over here get much more involved in the design and supply of wallcoverings than you guys do. It's just a normal part of our day to day business so normally have a rough idea of costs. Of course we also work with designers but even then we sometimes get asked by them if we can source the wallcovering cheaper though our suppliers.

Pricing of the job is no problem as is the hanging. Although I don't think i've ever hung a metallic paper weave, i'll treat like any other paper weave but as with all metallic papers I shall ensure no creases when hanging as i'm not sure the weave would hide it.


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## daArch

I just remembered the "Japanese Paperweave" #1712 I hung last year was very expensive. I had a brain fart and thought I had mis-estimated how much was needed, and had discussions with the Interior Designer about replacement costs. I can't find those notes, but looking at other notes, I can guess each 12 yard bolt was in the $250 range. 

I remember thinking, "this is ridiculous", but PJ is known for overpricing.

BTW, I did have enough, the brain fart was thinking they came in 10 yard bolts, but I had estimated correctly using the 12 yard amount.


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## Colour Republic

The cost trade price for the metallic is around £550 a 12 yard bolt in the UK, so that's around $800

Sometimes i wonder if it's cheaper for me to fly over to Asia and buy it direct!


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## parodi

Colour Republic said:


> One for the paperhangers out there.
> 
> Got a job coming up with a number of Phillip Jeffries wallcoverings, just wondered what the prices were like on your side of the pond?
> 
> Take say this one
> 
> 3536 - Lead - Metallic paper weave
> 
> If anybody has easy access to some prices that would be great. Trying to weigh up oif ity's worth importing rather than getting it locally. My guess is it's not but worth doing the math.
> 
> Thanks in advance if you can help


I don't know the price on it but before you hang it---before you do anything--- take a look at this video I did:


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## Colour Republic

Oh great sounds like fun!!! 

How did you trim round doors and what not? Did you bench cut everything?

Glad I haven't put the price in yet


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## daArch

As with many of the newer materials and many metalics, the installer needs to be careful when booking, some can not be even gently booked as Jim showed in the vid. 

I had a (what appeared to be) a basic Cole & Son non-woven. Any folding (even one with a gentle radius) would crease the product and some ink would flake off. C&S recommended to paste the wall - which actually caused worse flaking issues around trim, because there was NO flexibility in the material.

I had to paste on the table, being careful that the ends did not crease as they "spilled over" the ends of my table, and then I had to carry the strip to the wall with it only gently draped over my forearm. Wasn't an issue once I got into the rhythm. 

The last deGournay I did was a metalic ink that could not be creased, folded, bent, or otherwise distorted. I had a helper. We set up two tables lengthwise. Pasted the strips so they needed no folding or bending. Then we carried (both of us) each strip carefully to the wall. And obviously no paste could get on the surface. 

And to make it all the more interesting, this was in a 6 x 5 powder room.

yes, some papers, especially metalics, can not be bent, folded, or mutilated. But when properly handled do hang easily enough and look great once installed.

If you are not familiar with handling these types, can you find someone with experience? The learning curve is very short for someone with good installation skills and techniques.


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## Colour Republic

I've hung plenty of metallics and plenty of weaves just not a metallic weave. I'm never frightened by a wallcovering in fact I like a challenge. As with any paper I'm not 100% certain on I always test it with various pastes and hanging techniques just to see what it will and won't put up with. So on that front I'm looking forward to taming the beast!

Jim would you say the weave was delaminating from the backing paper as it creased?


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## parodi

Colour Republic said:


> I've hung plenty of metallics and plenty of weaves just not a metallic weave. I'm never frightened by a wallcovering in fact I like a challenge. As with any paper I'm not 100% certain on I always test it with various pastes and hanging techniques just to see what it will and won't put up with. So on that front I'm looking forward to taming the beast!
> 
> Jim would you say the weave was delaminating from the backing paper as it creased?


No it wasn't delaminating. It was wrinkling due to distortion and it could not be rolled out or corrected.


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## Colour Republic

Hi Jim,

Were the walls lined prior to hanging the finish paper? I'm wondering if this would have helped to draw the mositure back and suck the paper in as it were, helping to alleviate any minor creases.

On inspection of the coverings the paper weave seems to suffer much more than the chain mail but then the metallic seems far more of a brushed finish than reflective on the chain mail.

These are the 4 the client has in mind for one of the rooms and have a meeting next week to help her decided. Problem is my personal favorite without seeing the room is the paper weave. It looks very similar if not the same as in your video.


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## daArch

Colour Republic said:


> I've hung plenty of metallics and plenty of weaves just not a metallic weave. I'm never frightened by a wallcovering in fact I like a challenge. As with any paper I'm not 100% certain on I always test it with various pastes and hanging techniques just to see what it will and won't put up with. So on that front I'm looking forward to taming the beast!
> 
> Jim would you say the weave was delaminating from the backing paper as it creased?



as you know, this PJ paper has a metalic surface with a weave over it. Maya Romaoff has a similar product, Abacadazzle. But with a tighter weave. The issue with both is to NOT crease it, as with the metalics you said you are familiar with. As Jim showed in his vid, any time you over bend a thick product the inside circumference is much shorter than the outside circumference. This causes enough stress on the outside layer that it can break its bond, like he showed with the cardboard. 

These are not difficult products to install if you hang clean, do not over wet with paste so you have delamination issues, and do not radically bend them. Any "normal" height walls can be managed by one person. 

Didn't you say in some post that you normally test products? good idea with this so you can discover its limits on your own. 

A liner always improves an installation, although I do not believe PJ recommends a liner, I know the Jananese Paperweave instructions did not mention a liner


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## Colour Republic

Well it seems the metallic paper weave will just have to wait for another day now.

The choice had been made to go with the PJ paper weave but the cost of the covering for around 44m was going to be over £3k (or $4,700) and seeing as this is a guest room they decided to seek other options.

We were then going to go for a metallic grasscloth










But then this was out of stock and would have been made to order, production time and shipping from Hong Kong would take around 4 weeks so no real chance to get it installed for Christmas.


So in the end settled for a glass beaded damask from Jannelli e Volpi, which I knew I could get quickly and at good prices as i'd already hung it for one of J&V's buyers. Client loved it and I should have the covering in about a week.

This is the job I did a few years back with it









































It's from J&V's 901 VIP collection

http://www.jv-italiandesign.com/en/collection/jv-901-vip/damasco-diamante/


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## daArch

Glass beaded damask?

Sounds like fun . . . NOT

I have only handled Maya Romanoff's Beadazzed, but none of the other glass bead wallcoverings. And from what I hear about the beads shedding and getting into the paste, I'm not sure I want to hang them.

But it does look nice, Good job :thumbsup:


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## Colour Republic

Ahh the size of glass beads on this one is nothing like Romanoff's. Maybe 1/10th the size of something like the standard beadazzled.

They are fairly well bonded too, yes some do come off but if i'm pasting the wall I leave it a couple of inches back from the edge (much like you would do if double cutting on the wall) install the drop then paste the last few inches. That way any beads that come dislodged end up on the floor rather than the wall.


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## daArch

There are some imports, from what I understand, that have smaller beads and less glue holding them.


I do have a few questions about your process.

What paste? 

How did you trim around architectural features - razor? Template and shears? something else? 

Were the seams as good as they look from the pix? 

How did you wrap the outside corners? Heat gun?


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## Colour Republic

Paste used was Solvite Super High Performance Ready Mixed which is a PVA based adhesive. I believe you would call it a ready mixed clear.

Strictly speaking as it is non woven it didn't require a liner but I did anyway










I wonder do you hang lining in the same way over there on external corners? I trim about an inch paste the corner then let it dry or semi-dry, as the paper contracts it curves round the corner slightly, then sand off the edges with 120 grit sand paper leaving a very crisp edge. The masking tape you can see is because the room had been painted in a contract matt (builders flat I think you call it) so any paste transfer couldn't be washed off or it would have left scrub marks, so low tack it was.


Trimming round the fire place was done with a scalpel in situ making small relief cuts then a final trim. Top and bottoms were trimmed with a fresh utility blade on each drop (Did try with snap off blades but a sturdy blade made it easier on this one). Client was delighted with those as per their testimonial http://www.colour-republic.com/colour_republic_testimonials_rhodes.html I should point out the extra time the job took is because I had the mother of all colds at the time and the almost lack of material is because they ordered it without checking with me first so the setting out was a bit tricky to ensure we had enough. Oh and the questions were to do with setting out to see what look they prefered :lol:

The seams were perfect if I do say myself and even just a few inches away from the wall it's hard to spot them. I lightly rolled them then teased the beads together by hand so they locked into each other rather than straight butted. The only joint I wasn't happy with is the one to the right of the chimney breast and left of the mirror. The seaming was fine but you'll notice it's a little darker in shade, this was down to the how the paper was manufactured and the glass beads were slightly denser on that drop. It's not as noticable as in the picture but still just visable to the naked eye. But again we didn't have spare material so it went up anyway. Certainly doesn't effect the overall job and has to be pointed out to notice but the job would have been perfect save for that.

The paper wasn't that hard to manipulate, again nothing on par with romanoff. This was a paste the wall job and on external corners I dampened the backing and eased it round slowly using a rubber seam roller to press it home as it went round.:thumbsup:


Edit:
Might be worth including this pic. This is as the paper was going up and the flash on so you can see how it reacts with light


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## daArch

I treat my outside corners in a couple of different ways, depending on what I want from them.

If I am wrapping the finish paper around the corner, I sometimes will wrap the liner and when dry, will sand to sharp.

And other times, I will trim at the outside corner and then sand the liner to feather it to the corner. Although, some lining paper is so "hard" it doesn't sand well. 

If the paper is NOT being wrapped, like on a header, I will leave an inch or so past the corner as you describe, BUT cut reliefs every two inches or so. When DRY, I will QUICKLY snap-rip those tabs (caused by relief cuts) back across the lined wall. (If you can understand THAT, I'm impressed - another something to make a vid about.) This gives a nice feathered edge to the corner. Again, some liner material is too hard and will not feather well when doing this. 



You mention you "teased the beads together by hand". Here's a few "tricks" others have found works. As you may or may not know, the beads are stuck by what appears to be hot glue. Some folks have heated the seam area and moved the beads over the seam itself (as you have) or with the Beaddazzled have heated and stuck loose beads on the seam.

Another trick when a NON factory seam in the middle of a wall, was to cut from the back but not all the way through. Then pull the selvedge away, like "unzipping" it. This leaves some beads hanging over the edge and thus disguises the seam. 

I do notice you have a different technique when you railroad the liner. I hang a full width at top right against the ceiling. I accordion fold the paper and use pushpins to hold the unhung folds up as I reposition the ladder. I dislike seaming an upper piece to a lower piece. 

Also, I use wax paper (cut in two inch "rolls") to protect adjacent areas. I just put it on edge of the paste paper that will contact the water sensitive surface. This is also good for going into inside corners with grass where the other wall has already been hung. Some folks are using "cut tape", which is a very thin, non adhesive, vinyl tape that one of my friends is getting from Japan. Same purpose, different product.


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## Colour Republic

supposed to reply to this last week.

I understand about the tabs you rip off. Might try that to see how it works for me. But that would depend on the grade of liner as you say. 90% of the time I use MAV Erfurt 1000 grade, sometimes 800. Is this similar to what you use in general?

Looking at that picture i'm not quite sure why I hung the liner like that. I normally start 1 down rather than right at to top, unless it leaves me with small cuts top and bottom, which I try to avoid. But looking at the pic that's exactly what i've done. It looks like it could have been avoided from the dimensions. I must of had a reason but just can't recall why now??:blink:

So what I normally do is start almost one length down minus an inch or so, which allows for any deviations or unlevel ceilings.

This shows it better. Not me in the pic but one of my guys










Also just to point out on those earlier pics, i'm sure a few things don't look right! You might have been too polite to ask:whistling2:

First is on the liner pcture, we always remove rads or drop them. From the pic it might look as though the liner was just tucked behind but we never do that.

And the other is the picture taken with the flash on. It shows the mirror and side table back in place even though the job is unfinished. The job was spread over a few days and that section had been done the day before I'm guessing as I never replace fixtures until completely dry.

I know I look at some pictures sometimes and see clues as to methods that might have been used. But in this case it isn't what it looks like :lol:


Oh and that 'cut tape' sounds interesting, got any links?? The low tack that we use has a wax backing and is suited to most applications but if the paper is extreamly delicate we use a few other methods. Can't say i've ever applied wax paper to the back of a piece though


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## daArch

I have NO idea if that is the same liner I use. I buy it from a super nice couple in New York who own a company called Cavalier Wall Liner. This is the page that has the only info I know: http://wallliner.com/wall_liner1.html.

It's the best liner I've used, that's all I need to know :thumbsup:

I wasn't going to say a THING about any radiator or furniture I saw. Didn't even make note of it. Stuff gets moved as work is being done. Also, our cast iron steam radiators do NOT move without a plumber, so I need to tuck behind. All sorts of smoothing and trimming tools get invented on the spot.

I will ask about links to the cut tape. If PWG or Chrisn is reading, maybe they know where Boggess gets it. I'll drop him a note.


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## Colour Republic

Sorry Arch I was referring to the grade not the brand, or do they not do it like that over there?

i.e 600/800/1000/1200/1400.... Grade, which refers to the linging papers weight and thickness.


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## daArch

Colour Republic said:


> Sorry Arch I was referring to the grade not the brand, or do they not do it like that over there?
> 
> i.e 600/800/1000/1200/1400.... Grade, which refers to the linging papers weight and thickness.


Yah, after I wrote that I realized I worded it wrong, I should said I have no idea how it *compares* to the paper I use. The instructions on many of the Brit Pulps say what weight/grade liner to use, but Cavalier never has listed the actual weight or grade, just "Heavy Duty". But, I do not pay attention to it as I (and many others) have had such good results with it. It has decent wet strength, bridges small imperfections, absorbs excess moisture, and has an appealing surface texture. Plus the price is right and a case is on my door step two or three days after I order. 

Sometimes instructions impede good sense :thumbup:


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## Colour Republic

Just finished this one

Here are the before shots...































Walls gardz and lined






















And the covering starting to go up...


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## Colour Republic




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## Colour Republic

And you asked about seaming Arch, this paper is a dream to seam


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## daArch

nice work. REAL nice.

It's a shame someone's decorating sense was in the crapper 

What were they, mid-east oil rich ?


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## Colour Republic

Say what you mean Arch :lol: To be fair from the pics the fabric over powers the room but once finished and dressed it will be toned down a bit a flow much nicer. It looks much harsher in the pictures than in the flesh 

going to be doing the whole house over the course of the year it looks like so really looking forward to it. One area that i doubt will be changed is part of the main foyer which currently has a rather nice rippled leather effect covering on. As much as I've looked for faults and it would help my ego hugely to find them, i just can't. It's been hung very well and top marks to them... bastards!


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## chrisn

I bet that freekin chandelier cost more than my total net worth
I am with Mr Bill on the decorating, it sucks.:yes:


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## daArch

is that "rippled leather" like "pleated" leather ? That's gotta be some good money. I've hung Romaoff's "Remember Paris" (fka, "Moulin Rouge") which is a pleated "silk". Somewhat tricky, but also forgiving and very nice when hung right. 

Obviously these people like showing their wealth with their decorations, not that there's anything wrong with that. :thumbup:


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## AmericanHomeIntl

......
http://www.americanhomeintl.com


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## Colour Republic

Well thought i'd update this thread...

As you know last time the PJ paper weave was dropped for the Janelli e Volpi glass bead as the cost was too great for a minor guest bedroom.

Fast forward 18 months and the same clients had an extension built which one of the new rooms is now the master guest bedroom, so back out with the samples and this time I did convince them to go with the PJ. It went well and i'm really pleased with the outcome.

Just finished a few weeks ago...


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## Colour Republic




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## daArch

which PJ was it?

Looks like "Driftwood". (6205 - Twilight Blue)

If so, I LOVE that stuff. Makes me look like I know what I'm doing :thumbup:


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## Colour Republic

It was the Metallic Paper Weave DaArch, lead colour 3536. So the original one I wanted to do 18 months ago :thumbup:


only close up i've got to hand at the minute


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## Underdog

Thanks for the update, I'm a new paperhanger here and missed this thread.

Nice pictures.


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