# Masking Straight Lines



## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

I've got a couple questions pertaining to masking.

Do you put your tape right into the corner when doing accent walls or leave a slight reveal? (Assuming you're following a drywaller whose corners are not always perfectly straight)

How about baseboard? We know how wavy walls/baseboard can be, do you put your tape right into the seam or leave it back onto the base a little bit (paint grade trim)?

If you have a 3' wall that you need to mask the base on, lets say there is a pretty severe curve in that wall due to poor framing. Do you follow the wall, or try to mask a straighter line on the top of the base?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

spencer said:


> I've got a couple questions pertaining to masking.
> 
> Do you put your tape right into the corner when doing accent walls or leave a slight reveal? (Assuming you're following a drywaller whose corners are not always perfectly straight)
> 
> ...


The only corners I mask when doing accent walls are bullnose (rounded) corners.

I tape the top edge of all baseboards, but not for getting a straight edge - just to protect them from the slight downward splatter from my roller. I then remove the tape and do a fast touch-up. 

Although there may be exceptions (aren't there always), I usually follow the baseboard. It's not my fault the wall may be off. Doing much else to "correct" the situation will make it look like you didn't know where to edge. 

I typically find the area where ceilings and walls meet to be more problematic when it comes to achieving a straight look when things aren't true. That's where the most effort is required and some tweaking may be necessary.

Are you fairly new to the profession?


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

> Are you fairly new to the profession?


To be perfectly honest I am a finish carpenter who likes to have a firm grasp of all the trades. I like to know what painters like and what they hate. It makes all of our lives easier.

I do a lot of built ins that I spray. Otherwise I don't get into painting much. I put it up and the paint sub does the rest.

The reason I am asking this question is because I am doing my own home. Never knew there was so much that goes into painting. Its been a good learning experience. If you can't tell I like to figure out the best way to do something before I attempt it.

I spend most of my time on contractortalk. Mostly just lurk over here trying to gain insight. Hope my questions aren't to annoying. Just trying to learn.

Something like masking seems basic but I try to seek out every trick/technique I can down to the most minute detail from pros who do it everyday. I have learned a tremendous amount from Idahopainter's youtube channel. Love watching a guy work who knows what he is doing. I'm planning to start spraying my trim this week. Watching that guy spray is worth gold.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

You want straight lines? Learn how to use a brush.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

ProWallGuy said:


> You want straight lines? Learn how to use a brush.


If there is one thing I have learned on this forum it is that there is no substitute for cutting skills. I'm looking forward to going to town with the brush. I've got a lot of space to cover and all craftsman style trim to cut around. Looking forward to the learning experience.

However, I was under the impression that a lot of the guys on here do tape the base when it is white.

My plan was as follows:

2 coats on walls.

Coat 1
1) Mask base with 3m tape/9" paper. (Will keep paint off newly painted base)
2) Cut ceiling, windows/doors, and base very close but not quite exactly on the line (wait for final cut for that). Use small roller with brush to remove brush marks.
3) Roll walls. Hopefully while the cut in paint is still wet.

Coat 2
1) Final cut with brush right on the money. Cut ceiling, windows, and doors first. On the base before final cut I'll go over the base masking tape to make sure it is firmly pressed down then I'll run a bead of caulk to seal the tape edge. Cut it.
2) Quickly roll wall
3) Remove tape while paint/caulk is still wet.

Please critique. From what I have been able to gather this seems like the best approach for this situation.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

If I'm doing two coats. I like to roll the first coat first. Roll as close as I can to everything, then cut it in after. This eliminates a lot of the overlap on the first coat, makes it easier to cut in, cuts down on 'picture framing', and would probably eliminate the need to chase the first cut with a mini roller. 
With some practice, you can roll real close to the trim. Turn the roller horizontally and you can roll real close to the ceiling and the base. 

Just an idea..


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> If I'm doing two coats. I like to roll the first coat first. Roll as close as I can to everything, then cut it in after. This eliminates a lot of the overlap on the first coat, makes it easier to cut in, cuts down on 'picture framing', and would probably eliminate the need to chase the first cut with a mini roller.
> With some practice, you can roll real close to the trim. Turn the roller horizontally and you can roll real close to the ceiling and the base.
> 
> Just an idea..


I appreciate the advice. I was just on a jobsite where the painter did exactly that. Does seem easier. I'm all about efficiency. We'll give it a shot for sure. :thumbup:

Does that mean you only cutting in once with the brush? That would be a lot faster????


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

spencer said:


> Does that mean you only cutting in once with the brush? That would be a lot faster????













No, just that the first cut is a lot faster/easier. 
So what I mean is; roll.. Cut... Cut.. Roll.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Jmayspaint said:


> If I'm doing two coats. I like to roll the first coat first. Roll as close as I can to everything, then cut it in after. This eliminates a lot of the overlap on the first coat, makes it easier to cut in, cuts down on 'picture framing', and would probably eliminate the need to chase the first cut with a mini roller.
> With some practice, you can roll real close to the trim. Turn the roller horizontally and you can roll real close to the ceiling and the base.
> 
> Just an idea..


I do this quite often myself. My helper isn't worth a crap with a brush but he is a rolling son of a gun and usually gets to within 1/2'' to 3/4'' from trim with a 9 inch roller. Whether I cut first or follow him, I have minimal cut-in. I would prefer to cut in first, but this is not a frequent option with a 2-man crew. And depending on the surface to be painted and color/sheen of paint, sometimes I can get away with cutting once above baseboards and around trim.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

spencer said:


> If there is one thing I have learned on this forum it is that there is no substitute for cutting skills. I'm looking forward to going to town with the brush. I've got a lot of space to cover and all craftsman style trim to cut around. Looking forward to the learning experience.
> 
> However, I was under the impression that a lot of the guys on here do tape the base when it is white.
> 
> ...


On the first coat I like to roll first like others have stated. Also on the first coat I try to get my lines as strait as possible and use the second coat to make slight adjustments. 

Using a mini roller to remove brush marks is alright but in most cases it's not needed. If I were to do that I'd do it on the second coat not the first.

Taping the base and caulking it is something I've never tried. The only time I tape the base to protect from roller splatter is if painting the base is not in the contract. Otherwise I'll just touch up any splatter on the base with semi when I'm finished. I like to use proroller company dripless sleeves, when used with a quality paint the amount of splatter to touch up is reduced significantly. :yes:


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