# Spraying factory white metal doors.



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Getting alot of requests to spray finish these doors. Some onsite, some in my shop. Could be a lucrative part of my business if the price and process is nailed down..
Obviously in my shop is ideal, because of controlled environment.
I've used Aura Grand Entrance directly on to these with great success. I've also used Ultra Spec Acrylic DTM. Doesn't have as nice a finish but quicker recoat time. Have had better success with an airless vs. Hvlp, but with hvlp you could get away with 1 quart vs Gal to load up airless. Question.. would you prime these doors first, and/or how would you approach this.? Go.


----------



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Getting alot of requests to spray finish these doors. Some onsite, some in my shop. Could be a lucrative part of my business if the price and process is nailed down..
> Obviously in my shop is ideal, because of controlled environment.
> I've used Aura Grand Entrance directly on to these with great success. I've also used Ultra Spec Acrylic DTM. Doesn't have as nice a finish but quicker recoat time. Have had better success with an airless vs. Hvlp, but with hvlp you could get away with 1 quart vs Gal to load up airless. Question.. would you prime these doors first, and/or how would you approach this.? Go.



I just used a great Urethane Enamel from Cloverdale Paint called "Multimaster". That would be just the product if you can get your hands on some. You might have to order it from ST John's, NB or drive there and buy several pails of it. I used it on some restaurant metal doors that were previously coated with a glossy WB Alkyd. It dries quickly and levels out like glass when sprayed or rolled. Its a poly-acrylic that bonds to any surface. It's truly self priming. It's also non-blocking if you have to stack them. Tough as nails and at a good price of $50/gallon
https://www.cloverdalepaint.com/pro...s/interior-exterior-paints-stains/multimaster

Dulux has an industrial fast drying acrylic paint that is meant for metals and wood. I can't remember the name of it. It's NOT the PSX-700. My paint rep says some are using it for cabinets too.

For a cheaper option, you might consider HP-2000 by General Paint. (Buy at Sherwin Williams) https://www.generalpaint.com/product/hp2000-58-020/

Pitt-Tech is an excellent DTM.
http://www.ppghighperformancecoatin...TT-TECH®-EDF-Exterior-Waterborne-Acrylic.aspx


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Ya scuff X is a fantastic product, but not rated for exterior if I'm not mistaken. I also don't want to be having to order product. That's just a pain. I used to use Cloverdale products alot back in BC..




Mr Smith said:


> How about BM Scuff-X? I love that stuff for doors.
> 
> I just used a great paint from Cloverdale Paint called "Multimaster". That would be just the product if you can get your hands on some. You might have to order it from ST John's, NB or drive there and buy several pails of it. I used it on some restaurant metal doors that were previously coated with a glossy WB Alkyd. It dries quickly and levels out like glass when sprayed or rolled. Its a poly-acrylic that bonds to any surface. Tough as nails and at a good price of $50/gallon
> https://www.cloverdalepaint.com/pro...s/interior-exterior-paints-stains/multimaster
> ...


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Since they are already designed to be exterior doors, I’d personally just clean them well, do some light scuff sanding, and then apply a quality exterior enamel (for spray work I have used a lot of SW’s Pro-Industrial Multi-Surface Acrylic with excellent success).

I hear you about the HVLP versus airless and the amount of product needed. But as long as you factor that into the bid it should really be a non-issue. Customers are not going to freak out getting billed for a gallon of paint instead of only a quart.

Don’t overthink it.


----------



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Ya scuff X is a fantastic product, but not rated for exterior if I'm not mistaken. I also don't want to be having to order product. That's just a pain. I used to use Cloverdale products alot back in BC..


Yeah I edited the Scuff-X because it is interior only. Same for the General Finishes. I added a few more suggestions.


----------



## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

RH said:


> Since they are already designed to be exterior doors, I’d personally just clean them well, do some light scuff sanding, and then apply a quality exterior enamel (for spray work I have used a lot of SW’s Pro-Industrial Multi-Surface Acrylic with excellent success).
> 
> I hear you about the HVLP versus airless and the amount of product needed. But as long as you factor that into the bid it should really be a non-issue. Customers are not going to freak out getting billed for a gallon of paint instead of only a quart.
> 
> Don’t overthink it.



MSA is basically transparent the times I have used it.

Ultraspec DTM thinned with some BM or XIM extender.


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> MSA is basically transparent the times I have used it.
> 
> Ultraspec DTM thinned with some BM or XIM extender.


Interesting. Never had (or at least noticed) that problem with it myself.


----------



## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

I do like to do a prime coat and tint the primer close to what the door color will be and just do one top coat if I can get away with it, in that case using as short an airless hose as you can with a proper spray tip size a quart is usually enough. 
I have a real short hose and whip just to do doors but it sucks having to buy another quart if it does not go as far as needed due to things like accidentally dumping paint while the prime valve is open or having to do a second top coat.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I really should try the DTM with some extender. I find it just doesn't lay out very nice on its own..theoretically it probably doesnt need a primer, but wonder if a coat of Stix first would be just that much better.


----------



## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

RH said:


> Interesting. Never had (or at least noticed) that problem with it myself.



The sample I saw most recently was matched to james hardie countrylane red. I did a drawdown on one of those black/white panels with 4mil drawdown rod. It certainly laid down nicely but the pigment load seemed really thin like a lacquer yet the can was near full.


Matched the color over to mooreguard and it unsurprisingly it covered great. Very similar color to BM Country Redwood.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont think theres any need to prime, no matter hwo you do them. The paint should be a good enough quality to stand on its own. Personally, I would just use a high quality exterior paint, like Moorglo, or Manor hall, or something. Its a door. People dont spend a whole lot of time looking at them, so I think using grand entrance, or even aura is a waste of money, unless thats waht you used on the body...


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I just find that regular exterior paints don't have the bite or strength direct over those metal doors. Especially around the handle where keys and finger nails hit.
I find products like Grand entrance and DTM are bullet proof and have really good adhesion. I also like the way grand entrance flows out. It honestly looks like an automotive finish. Similar to Advance. Was hoping to not have to prime , even though I think I'll sleep better knowing with I did..
I've used regular Aura Semigloss before and it didn't hold up well at all. All scratched off around the door handle..with no primer.



Woodco said:


> I dont think theres any need to prime, no matter hwo you do them. The paint should be a good enough quality to stand on its own. Personally, I would just use a high quality exterior paint, like Moorglo, or Manor hall, or something. Its a door. People dont spend a whole lot of time looking at them, so I think using grand entrance, or even aura is a waste of money, unless thats waht you used on the body...


----------



## Gracobucks (May 29, 2011)

Cloverdales mutli-masters is a good product. We have used it on Cabinets, metal roofing and anodized aluminum with great success and no priming. I did a sample in my shop on anodized aluminum and I have a hard time scratching it off. However dark colours show marks like a chalkboard. 

I would use a cordless graco sprayer instead of a hvlp. This way you wouldn't need a gallon per door and still have the speed of a airless.


----------



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

The front doors of the house I rent were painted (by very crappy painters) with behr premium, and they are actually holding up very well.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Ok. So I ended up just washing with eco TSP, sanding with 220 grit block and spraying 2 coats BM Ultra Spec Acrylic Dtm with a little conditioner. No primer. Airless sprayer 310 ff tip. Green frog tape for tight lines. Actually turned out pretty good. Time will tell. Product Still doesn't flow out how I'd like, but is surely acceptable..


----------



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Gracobucks said:


> Cloverdales mutli-masters is a good product. We have used it on Cabinets, metal roofing and anodized aluminum with great success and no priming. I did a sample in my shop on anodized aluminum and I have a hard time scratching it off. However dark colours show marks like a chalkboard.
> 
> I would use a cordless graco sprayer instead of a hvlp. This way you wouldn't need a gallon per door and still have the speed of a airless.


That's good to know about Multimaster. I just did a ton of woodwork in a restaurant in black. I hope they don't complain.

I find that most dark colors will burnish including BM Advance. A good workaround is to clear coat the dark colors. I wonder if Multimaster has a clear?

I haven't tried it for cabinets yet. How does the finish look? Luckily 95% of the cabinets we finish are white.


----------

