# Oil Based White Paint for Interior Trim/Doors



## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Are any of you guys using oil based for interior white trim? I've got a bunch of openings to spray that are craftsman style trim and I'm worried about runs. Gonna have to hit things from a bunch on different angles and I'm not sure how its going to go...

Any advice on how to hit this casing style to prevent runs and a good paint also? Using a Graco 395 with FF Tip. 211 I believe.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

spencer said:


> Are any of you guys using oil based for interior white trim? I've got a bunch of openings to spray that are craftsman style trim and I'm worried about runs. Gonna have to hit things from a bunch on different angles and I'm not sure how its going to go...
> 
> Any advice on how to hit this casing style to prevent runs and a good paint also? Using a Graco 395 with FF Tip. 211 I believe.


When using oil, I prefer Devoe velour.

I have never sprayed it though.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

spencer said:


> Are any of you guys using oil based for interior white trim? I've got a bunch of openings to spray that are craftsman style trim and I'm worried about runs. Gonna have to hit things from a bunch on different angles and I'm not sure how its going to go...
> 
> Any advice on how to hit this casing style to prevent runs and a good paint also? Using a Graco 395 with FF Tip. 211 I believe.


I like a .209 cause it is slower, easier to control. complicated trim I just don't rush it I may have to spray each peice two or three times concentrating on a different feature or direction each time and letting it tak up a bit between shots. man I seen guys create some disasters trying to cover trim with oil on one shot. I just used recent the S.W. alkyd(the label says 'for metal') It came in a semi. the 'for metal' on the label is to appease the law I',m sure. just regular old oil paint that you could use on wood trim.


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## PaintNerd (Aug 15, 2013)

I would recommend something fast-setting like the PPG Speedhide WB oil. Hit it with a light mist coat first and give it 10-15 minutes to tack up, then run your full coat. Do this for each angle and you should come out nice and smooth. Don't try to rush it and get it all at once or you'll have runs worse than drinking a tall glass of water in Tijuana!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

If you can get it I still like BM's Satin Impervo. Follow their directions for spaying and it's almost idiot proof - which is important in my case.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Last time I sprayed oil, I used a 208FF. Thinned with naphtha for a quicker flash-off (this may hurt leveling, though). If runs are a real problem with the airless, you could try a trans-tech gravity gun. Oil can be thinned to desire. The gravity gun will give you more control. You can also lay down a tack coat with oil, then come back and lay a wet coat. Experiment...


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Good info. Keep it comin...


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Ugh. Spraying oil in an occupied home? Use BM Advance or California's Nextech. Looks great, no stink for homeowner. 

Last time I sprayed Impervo, A) it looked great, B) HO called 2 weeks later asking when the smell would dissipate. In summer, all windows open, with fans. Not psyched.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

kdpaint said:


> Ugh. Spraying oil in an occupied home? Use BM Advance or California's Nextech. Looks great, no stink for homeowner.
> 
> Last time I sprayed Impervo, A) it looked great, B) HO called 2 weeks later asking when the smell would dissipate. In summer, all windows open, with fans. Not psyched.


My main reason for going with oil based is to avoid sag. My local ace paint guy is telling me latex sucks for sag/drips/runs. I'm all for latex if I can avoid that aspect. And I realize you have to not suck at spraying as well.


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## Huntercoatings (Aug 16, 2013)

If youm have to use a solvent based alkyd I'd go with proclassic from sw. It has great hang on corners yet flows to a glass like finish. If you can use a water based alkyd, try ppg porter glyptex water based alkyd. Dries fast to lay on a tack coat and come back 20 min later and shoot a wet coat.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Huntercoatings said:


> If youm have to use a solvent based alkyd I'd go with proclassic from sw. It has great hang on corners yet flows to a glass like finish. If you can use a water based alkyd, try ppg porter glyptex water based alkyd. Dries fast to lay on a tack coat and come back 20 min later and shoot a wet coat.


I have heard good things about glyptex, do you know where I can get it?


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

spencer said:


> My main reason for going with oil based is to avoid sag. My local ace paint guy is telling me latex sucks for sag/drips/runs. I'm all for latex if I can avoid that aspect. And I realize you have to not suck at spraying as well.


 
Why are you getting advice from the ace guy unless he's actually done painting in the past. Latex dries pretty fast so it would be less likely to sag on you unless you are over applying, If that is the case then Oil will sag on you also.

Oil + White = Yellowing. 

I would try out very light passes first, until you get the hang of it.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

spencer said:


> My main reason for going with oil based is to avoid sag. My local ace paint guy is telling me latex sucks for sag/drips/runs. I'm all for latex if I can avoid that aspect. And I realize you have to not suck at spraying as well.


With oil enamel yes it stinks for some time. Usually about a month before the smell dissipates. However there isn't an acrylic enamel that comes close to being as durable. I would use ben moore satin impervo or pro classic.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Gotdibz said:


> Why are you getting advice from the ace guy unless he's actually done painting in the past. Latex dries pretty fast so it would be less likely to sag on you unless you are over applying, If that is the case then Oil will sag on you also.
> 
> Oil + White = Yellowing.
> 
> I would try out very light passes first, until you get the hang of it.


He was a successful contractor before he and his brother bought a lumber yard/ace store. He sprayed the glyptex stux and recommended it. Had bad experience spraying latex. I think a smaller tip would help matters. He used to use a 211 or 212 FF.

With latex, does the same concept still apply of shooting a "mist" coat, letting it tack up for about 20 min and going back with a wet coat?

He said something about porter advantage 900 being a hard finish but he didn't know how it would spray.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

I think I'm asking the wrong question. Sounds like oil isn't necessarily the best bet.

Rephrase, what latex product have you had success spraying for complicated trim?

Trim style is like this:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Spencer once you get your equipment, reduction, and technique any paint can be applied with relative ease. If you do tack coats with acrylic and wait 20 minutes it would be dry. More like 5 minutes or less and its getting sticky.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Huntercoatings said:


> If youm have to use a solvent based alkyd I'd go with proclassic from sw. It has great hang on corners yet flows to a glass like finish. If you can use a water based alkyd, try ppg porter glyptex water based alkyd. Dries fast to lay on a tack coat and come back 20 min later and shoot a wet coat.


There is one porter dealer in town that somehow can still get glyptex. Otherwise, its discontinued from the manufactuer.


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

I spray a water borne alkyd with 310 ff on base, liners, casings, doors, crown mouldings; sometimes a tac coat and the only time I have a drip or sag is if i delay or try to get too artistic. The results with this product are impressive and no smell.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

ejs said:


> I spray a water borne alkyd with 310 ff on base, liners, casings, doors, crown mouldings; sometimes a tac coat and the only time I have a drip or sag is if i delay or try to get too artistic. The results with this product are impressive and no smell.


Do you reduce at all? Which WB alkyd? What pressure? Do you get a glass-smooth finish, or is there some minor dimpling, etc? Just asking because I had to thin and use a 208FF to get a smooth finish with Advance semi...and this appears to be atypical.


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

General Paint/Monamel, as is, 17-1800 or no tails for sure, there's no gauge on the 395, 1ft from the surface, don't stop the trigger until you are past the surface, split ea. pass. Some odd profiles can be tack coated or painted from a slightly different angles and may require an extra coat. Is it a mirror finish? Very close.​


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

ejs said:


> General Paint/Monamel, as is, 17-1800 or no tails for sure, there's no gauge on the 395, 1ft from the surface, don't stop the trigger until you are past the surface, split ea. pass. Some odd profiles can be tack coated or painted from a slightly different angles and may require an extra coat. Is it a mirror finish? Very close.​


Thanks. The spitting is something I had to get used to when I with straight airless, coming from an AAA. The AAA guns don't spit at all. I imagine they use a much smaller needle and they use a much weaker spring (and aren't designed to take the pressures/abuse that an airless gun can). The Graco contractor gun ads claim it spits less, but I haven't tried it.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

more_prep said:


> Thanks. The spitting is something I had to get used to when I with straight airless,.....The Graco contractor gun ads claim it spits less, but I
> haven't tried it.














Try it. With a good gun, set up right, the spits will go away.


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## Huntercoatings (Aug 16, 2013)

PPG porter has a new waterbased version of glyptex. It comes in satin and gloss. Satin is what i use most often, I have my store add PPG's extender to it before shaking. The extender really helps during brush application, but helps it level even better when sprayed with an airless. Advantage 900 is also a great waterbased paint. It dries really fast but lays down nice when sprayed. Its similar to SW solo, its 100% acrylic int/ ext enamel.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Huntercoatings said:


> PPG porter has a new waterbased version of glyptex. It comes in satin and gloss. Satin is what i use most often, I have my store add PPG's extender to it before shaking. The extender really helps during brush application, but helps it level even better when sprayed with an airless. Advantage 900 is also a great waterbased paint. It dries really fast but lays down nice when sprayed. Its similar to SW solo, its 100% acrylic int/ ext enamel.


What is the name of the new water based version of glyptex? 

As of now my plan is to use the Advantage 900. Would adding the extender make drips and runs more likely?


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

If you're considering a latex try Ultraplate, Urethane modified acrylic, if their is a dealer near you. Only white and pastel colors. Levels nicely and dries hard as a rock. I brushed some out at the store on a piece of trim, came out beautiful. After it cured I subjected it to a hardness test, where I took a piece and whacked it against the corner of a metal shelf. Wood dented but the paint held fast. Won't yellow like oils either.


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## Huntercoatings (Aug 16, 2013)

spencer said:


> What is the name of the new water based version of glyptex?
> 
> As of now my plan is to use the Advantage 900. Would adding the extender make drips and runs more likely?


Adding the recommended amount of extender shouldn't cause runs. Advantage dry's really fast and has better hang than most acrylics in its class. The new version of Glyptex is Glyptex wb/alkyd enamel. I think it's relabled Manor hall wb/alkyd. The glyptex satin has an awesome look on trim, it has a depth of sheen that i really like. Advantage semi has a rich looking finish, seems classier than standard semi-gloss paints.


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## tbone464 (Oct 25, 2013)

spencer said:


> Are any of you guys using oil based for interior white trim? I've got a bunch of openings to spray that are craftsman style trim and I'm worried about runs. Gonna have to hit things from a bunch on different angles and I'm not sure how its going to go...
> 
> Any advice on how to hit this casing style to prevent runs and a good paint also? Using a Graco 395 with FF Tip. 211 I believe.


Make sure you have the green tip. The FFT only come in even numbers I believe. 208,210,212 etc....


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

spencer you have gotten a lot of good advice, I can only try to add to it. I prefer a 410 FF graco of course. A wider fan with a fine finish spreads the fan out compared to a 210 letting you control milage nicely. If you go across a header horizontally with a skinny fan, it could run easy. A 410 spreads that same amount of paint out with thinnner edges. I like oils but if you go latex Advance is finnicky and can have poor adhesion. (it doesn't like tack cloths)


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## Paintdian (Apr 17, 2013)

ejs said:


> General Paint/Monamel, as is, 17-1800 or no tails for sure, there's no gauge on the 395, 1ft from the surface, don't stop the trigger until you are past the surface, split ea. pass. Some odd profiles can be tack coated or painted from a slightly different angles and may require an extra coat. Is it a mirror finish? Very close.​


Monamel!!! That stuff is rank. I have not any experience with any other WB Alkyd other then one time whirl of Cloverdales version. It was a lot different in many ways. The finish looks smokin, but it dosn't have that same characteristic that I found with Monamel. (A lot thinner, and very easy to brush) Then again I had tried it with dark chocolate brown trim and doors.

That Monamel is thick, sticky, stinky, and its hard on equiptment - (I have always found that if a person is worried about brushed trim finish then this stuff can be hard to work with. Its hard to brush. If the base boards are flat profile then I always brush and roll with a jumbo whiz. That way the texture matches the wall and its a prefered look VS. just brushing I wish there was a way to brush it easier. But I have always been amazed at how thick you can pile the stuff on vertical surfaces with the sprayer. It seems the newer the FF tip the smoother the finish is. 

Monamel is hard core WB Alkyd. I don't know much more then that.


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