# Roller pattern



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Think I'll ask a real painting related question 

While I was rolling on some prep coat today, I gots to wondering how many different, yet succesful ways, other pros roll.

Do you start with the old "W" and then even it out?

Do you roll a section horizontally and then "feather" it vertically.

Do you start three roller widths away from the wet edge and work "backward"

Do you just continue "forward" from the wet edge.

Or something different.

No wrong answer here.

I'm always on the look out for a method that I can use to lay in on quicker and evenly. 


(can you image the replies Ida gotten if this were my first post on PT







)


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

good topic Bill. I like how Tim H is green in your fancy smily.
I roll top to bottom, start 1/2 roller width from wet edge roll a bit, roll off the corners of the roller ( so I don't leave ropes) in the dry area between where I am rolling and the wet edge and then roll back to the wet edge. the 1/2 roller width gives me proper coverage on a full top to bottom roller pattern. If I have any extra I just roll out the wet edge a little further.


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## frankcanpaint (Apr 22, 2007)

*rolling*

same for me as tsunamicontract. I used the w very briefly a long time ago an for me it as an unnecessary xtra step. Good topic
frank


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Do you start three roller widths away from the wet edge and work "backward"

Maybe 2 widths but basically that, roll back and then foreword over where the roller hit the wall to smooth all out.


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

chrisn said:


> Do you start three roller widths away from the wet edge and work "backward"
> 
> Maybe 2 widths but basically that, roll back and then foreword over where the roller hit the wall to smooth all out.


Same as.

mistcoat(UK)


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## PVPainter (Jul 26, 2008)

I just make sure my 4 inch purdy is loaded to the ferrel and start swinging that way I don't have to take time for the gym.


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## Jeff.Chicago (May 19, 2008)

Use a 18 inch set up and you'll never have any issues. It's fast, and the end results are flawless if the prep was done correctly.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

I always roll right to left. Usually start about a 6" from the corner or where I left off. I start center of the wall where I unload most, roll up, then come down to the ground using the extra paint in the center to cover the bottom half. Not how I learned, but how I was re-taught with an 18" and like it much.


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## Safety Guy (Jul 19, 2007)

We flat spray everything, no roller marks


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## frankcanpaint (Apr 22, 2007)

*no roller marks?*

We flat spray everything, no roller marks
safety guy
You do new construction and don't re-service the client. Is that right and if SO then What about final touch- ups after cabinets etc, are installed? Since it's impossible to re spray, You'd have to use brush/roller to redo the scuffed/ damaged areas. Marks however slight must still be noticeable over a sprayed surface. Is that not a concern for your client?
Frank


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Allow me to keep this on track

This thread was not initiated to discuss the merits of one method vs another, but to help us all develop our own best pattern to apply coatings with a roller - ANY size.

I put my prep coat on in various patterns, but I think I like starting with a saturated (3/8") in the middle of the wall about 2 roller widths away from my wet edge and work backwards. I will test other methods I read here. 

When painting, to get what I found was the best look, I'd cut in first with a brush and get on a ladder and roll horizontally as close to the ceil line as possible (like 1/8 - 1/16"). The bottom of the wall would be similarly done.
(this would prevent "picture framing") The body would be applied in a modified W with each section being finish feathered. This was back in the days when rollers had a "grain". Rolling in one direction would leave a different look than the other. 

I also, depending on the paint, would apply horizontally over a section and then feather down.

I was happy to read tstsunami would get the excess of the edges like I did to prevent ropes :thumbup:


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## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

I'm left-handed. I keep left hand at top of pole and right hand in the middle. I start at the far-right end of the wall. I usually roll out of a 5er with a grid. Load it up, I start rolling half-way up the wall, about eye level, moving up then down. I get 1-3 "columns" with every dip. I sometimes backroll to much, but I say it's better to back roll to much and fix it right then, rather than have ridges dry on me.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

daArch said:


> When painting, to get what I found was the best look, I'd cut in first with a brush and get on a ladder and roll horizontally as close to the ceil line as possible (like 1/8 - 1/16"). The bottom of the wall would be similarly done.
> (this would prevent "picture framing") The body would be applied in a modified W with each section being finish feathered. This was back in the days when rollers had a "grain". Rolling in one direction would leave a different look than the other.
> 
> I would think this would be a very difficult way to deal with that problem and it would leave a roller wide hatband instead of just a brush wide. You would almost have to roll the whole wall sideways. Thinking about it though, why don't they make sideways roller frames? that would bre great for long walls with light at one end.
> ...


I live to make you happy bill :thumbup:


greensboro84 said:


> I usually roll out of a 5er with a grid


I get mad ropes when I roll out of a grid. I have been using those handy paint pal roller trays (the big gray ones with the ladder hooks). Nice oversized roll off area. I want to try the wooster version but Ill have to order it.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

greensboro84 said:


> I'm left-handed. I keep left hand at top of pole and right hand in the middle. I start at the far-right end of the wall. I usually roll out of a 5er with a grid. Load it up, I start rolling half-way up the wall, about eye level, moving up then down. I get 1-3 "columns" with every dip. I sometimes backroll to much, but I say it's better to back roll to much and fix it right then, rather than have ridges dry on me.


I'm right handed, but roll the same way. Weird.

@tsunami... The Wooster ones are the ****. Just don't try to push the 9" ones along with your foot or it's easy to tip. I learned that the hard way after getting used to kicking around an 18" bucket all day.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

> I would think this would be a very difficult way to deal with that problem and it would leave a roller wide hatband instead of just a brush wide. You would almost have to roll the whole wall sideways. Thinking about it though, why don't they make sideways roller frames? that would bre great for long walls with light at one end.


I can understand your concern, but it didn't. I musta had some technique that I have forgotten. I'm sure if I picked up a roller and finish coated a wall, it would come back to me - like riding a bicycle. Hard to describe, easy to remember the subtleties when doing it.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I believe ya bill, just doesn't seem like it would work great. I will have to try it some time. BUt with aura you don't get flashing or hatbands so its a non issue.

yah and JNLP those handy paint pal ones are nice because they won't tip over.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

daArch said:


> I can understand your concern, but it didn't. I musta had some technique that I have forgotten. I'm sure if I picked up a roller and finish coated a wall, it would come back to me - like riding a bicycle. Hard to describe, easy to remember the subtleties when doing it.


Nope I totally agree. However I like to use the mini Wooster naps for this. Cut everything in but as you do it run your finish coat nap sized mini Wooster nap along it (works great if you press a shield against the opposite surface). Then when you roll upto it your texture matches the mini naps texture and you have no problems. I work fast though & keep it all wet, so never had any probelms.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I used some contractor grade P&L paint a few months back - and it brought back all sorts of memories of different rolling techniques to get the paint to look good. Most high end paint is so good - I think most homeowners could almost make a paint job look professional these days. I never ever see 'hatbanding' anymore - I too use to roll along the ceiling horizontally as close as I could and then roll into that area to fill the walls - now it seems you could cut walls with a 6" wide brush and not overlap with a roller - and paint jobs still look awesome. I've rolled walls with regal - and then cut them in a day later - and the finish still looked flawless.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> I used some contractor grade P&L paint a few months back - and it brought back all sorts of memories of different rolling techniques to get the paint to look good. Most high end paint is so good - I think most homeowners could almost make a paint job look professional these days. I never ever see 'hatbanding' anymore - I too use to roll along the ceiling horizontally as close as I could and then roll into that area to fill the walls - now it seems you could cut walls with a 6" wide brush and not overlap with a roller - and paint jobs still look awesome. I've rolled walls with regal - and then cut them in a day later - and the finish still looked flawless.



Hey Plain was it the Gold Label? I use the Gold Label "super one coat white" for a lot ceilings lately


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## frankcanpaint (Apr 22, 2007)

*rolling*

The last few big jobs i did it was stipulated that nothing but the doors were to be sprayed and that almost no roller texture was acceptable. Even the drywall sealer had to be rolled. I roll out the ceilings and walls first for drywall and then go back and cut in the ceiling lines and corners. I use a 3/8 roller sleeve for both drywall, ceilings and topcoatS. For the ceilings I use 2 coats of BM ceiling flat, cut around twice overlapping a little onto the walls and then roll one direction for the first coat and roll the opposite direction for the second coat. I use a black plastic tray with disposable liners. The tray holds almost a gallon and sits on a wheeled platform I made that i push or pull ahead of me with the roller.
I've used bucket grids and the green wooster pail set up but I found that contamination becomes an issue because of more surface area for paint to dry on bucket sides etc and I prefer the tray set up. I have also pulled over a bucket dragging and pushing it ahead of me at one time. I do use a bucket and grid if I am working off the ground/floor.
With my top coats I usually cut in twice at ceiling line and corners and i try to keep the cut lines to only a few inches. I sometimes even thin the paint with a little water - add a little water into my cut can to help disappear brush lines . I prefer to roll from right to left and since I use a 3/8 roller sleeve. I put my first full roller halfway on the wall about 2 roller lengths out from the corner and roll back to the corner and then lightly out past where i started from and I continue to somewhat do the same thing throughout. After maybe going about 10 ft. I turn my emptied roller sideways and using only the last few inches I go within 3/4 inch from the ceiling and ever so lightly roll my ceiling cut line . This rolling my cut line may now be an unnecessary step but for the moment it is hardwired into my rolling.
I started off with the W years ago but eventually moved to how i work today. I never have rolled horizontally unless I am painting a curved wall.
This is a good post


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## frankcanpaint (Apr 22, 2007)

*rolling*

The last few big jobs i did it was stipulated that nothing but the doors were to be sprayed and that almost no roller texture was acceptable. Even the drywall sealer had to be rolled. I roll out the ceilings and walls first for drywall and then go back and cut in the ceiling lines and corners. I use a 3/8 roller sleeve for both drywall, ceilings and topcoatS. For the ceilings I use 2 coats of BM ceiling flat, cut around twice overlapping a little onto the walls and then roll one direction for the first coat and roll the opposite direction for the second coat. I use a black plastic tray with disposable liners. The tray holds almost a gallon and sits on a wheeled platform I made that i push or pull ahead of me with the roller.
I've used bucket grids and the green wooster pail set up but I found that contamination becomes an issue because of more surface area for paint to dry on bucket sides etc and I prefer the tray set up. I have also pulled over a bucket dragging and pushing it ahead of me at one time. I do use a bucket and grid if I am working off the ground/floor.
With my top coats I usually cut in twice at ceiling line and corners and i try to keep the cut lines to only a few inches. I sometimes even thin the paint with a little water - add a little water into my cut can to help disappear brush lines . I prefer to roll from right to left and since I use a 3/8 roller sleeve. I put my first full roller halfway on the wall about 2 roller lengths out from the corner and roll back to the corner and then lightly out past where i started from and I continue to somewhat do the same thing throughout. After maybe going about 10 ft. I turn my emptied roller sideways and using only the last few inches I go within 3/4 inch from the ceiling and ever so lightly roll my ceiling cut line . This rolling my cut line may now be an unnecessary step but for the moment it is hardwired into my rolling.
I started off with the W years ago but eventually moved to how i work today. I never have rolled horizontally unless I am painting a curved wall.
This is a good post :yes:


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