# Matching Cabinet Stain/Finish Help



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Jul 24, 2017)

Hi Guys/Ladies.....

I just jumped over from CT/DIY for additional and possibly the most specialized advice. Hope that's OK.


In process of RR on "new" 20 year old home. 

I'm having a he11uva time trying to match this homes existing oak cabinetry.

As background... these were production built (extensive thru the area) and are 1996 version (so likely some aging affect). I have tried to find/pin down the manufacturer or the finisher without any success.

I had one person think they remember that it was called something like "Pearl/Perlized" oak finish.

It is Oak with what at first appears to me to be a white wash effect and likely a white pickling.

I've tried Old Masters/Minwax/white pickling/Another brand recommended by local Jones BM dealer/custom mixed SW stain/..... with both a poly semi gloss and a water poly semi finish. 

Actually, the closest I have come is with an Olympic custom tinted semi-solid deck stain... wiped on-off and a oil poly.

But in examining the finish up close, and considering it is production built, I'm wondering if it somehow done with a tinted finish (laquor or poly), and not stained at first at all.

If looked at closely, there seems to be no distinct stain coloring, either in the grain necessarily, or in any corners. It is almost like a whiteish tint evenly all over.

In the cabinets I've made and attempting to match to existing, I have tried to use the lightest oak I could find/cull.

Does anyone know how these were done and how I can replicate better, or any other suggestions as to product or technique that I can try.?????

I've tried to show pics in different light.... it is very light with some tan tint.

Thanks in advance for any/all help or advice.....

Best

Peter


----------



## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Looks like they've either been pickled or have had a glaze applied. My process of pickling is to take oil base enamel and thin it down to a stain-like consistency and apply it just like stain and wipe off the excess. 

I don't have as much experience with applying glaze. Maybe we can get @fauxlynn to give it a look. She's the master of special effects and faux finishing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

I find it odd that there is no or very little evidence of any type of glaze in the crevices or pores.

I agree, they probably were sprayed with an even coat of tinted clear. 


See if you can find a place anywhere where there might not be any finish. Try like the edge of a shelf or remove the hinges or something. Maybe finding an area of raw or unfinished wood would give a clue.


In any case, if you are starting with raw wood, you would need to compare it to the existing and figure out what color to add get the same tone.

I don't know, that's all I got.


----------



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

fauxlynn said:


> I find it odd that there is no or very little evidence of any type of glaze in the crevices or pores.
> 
> I agree, they probably were sprayed with an even coat of tinted clear.
> 
> ...


How disappointing, we expected more out of you. :whistling2:

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk


----------



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> How disappointing, we expected more out of you. :whistling2:
> 
> Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk


I was going to start out by saying knock it off with faux expert stuff,you guys have to remember I'm not familiar with most of the materials/methods y'all use,*KING DUDE.lain:*


----------



## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

fauxlynn said:


> I was going to start out by saying knock it off with faux expert stuff,you guys have to remember I'm not familiar with most of the materials/methods y'all use,*KING DUDE.lain:*


All joking aside, I've seen pictures of the stuff you do. If that's not expert I don't know what is.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Ok. There are a number of things that could be going on here. 

First off, if it's possible to identify the wood species that would help you out to make sure you can get that type of finish.

There are different types of oak. Red oak and White Oak being the most common. My hunch is that it might be white oak as the red color in the pores is hard to kill.

My second hunch is that instead of a glaze or white wash, it looks to me like they might have bleached the wood and then sealed it.

This use to be a popular technique to remove color from the wood and is still used in select circles by skilled finishers. It's typically the first step in a many step process.

I would try that first, I'm fairly sure you'll get close to that look with just that and maybe a small tweak or two after that to dial it in. 

Good luck.  :vs_cool:


----------



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

I think the bleached wood theory is the most likely.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Jul 24, 2017)

fauxlynn said:


> I find it odd that there is no or very little evidence of any type of glaze in the crevices or pores.
> 
> I agree, they probably were sprayed with an even coat of tinted clear.
> 
> ...


Everyone... Thanks for the input/help/advice.. 

I did learn a few things last night that might help....

Faux..... I think ya got it... THANKS

1) I sanded down last night an old dishwasher panel that I had saved (and forgotton) and it is definately a tinted surface coating. There was no stain below the surface coat. (I don't know how to tell if it was a laquor.

2) Plus it makes sense just by examining it... no distinct staining in the graining and just a general even white haze over entire surface.

3) Plus I pulled a few more doors/hinges and found where the hinge bore had not been hit by the spray and it was not a stain.

OK... *I'm a GC and not an accompliced finish painter*. Plus when we retired I sold a whole lot of my shop in downsizing, and don't have a HVLP anymore...and would not know how to tint out or spray laquor.

Can you think of how I could mimic/fake that finish...???

Especially maybe with a brush on poly. Can I get tints (maybe white and brown?????) for Minwax oil poly and lay it on very carefully.... much like their Polyshades product.

Would you advise I hit the bare Oak with some diluted bleach at first.

Would you advise that I hit the raw oak with a sanding sealer first.

Do you have an idea of a better alternative advisable product and technique.

Thanks in advance for any/all advice everyone.

Best

Peter

PS( I tried tinting a water poly with a water white Olympic deck stain and brushing last night. ) The white came out pretty bright and the water poly is a very cool type finish (close but noticably off). I'm going to hit that with a couple coats of oil poly this morning and see if that will warm it up.)


----------



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Ok, so this is where I'm not going to be much help....

You could try to tint the poly. Yes, you'll have to experiment with warming up the color.

My experience with tinted poly is it starts drying and your brushing, it lifts off on the half dry areas, the color doesn't get distributed evenly. I would think the results would not be that great.


What about using some sort of super sticky white, tinted to the right color, evenly roll it on....maybe let it sit a couple minutes, then wipe it off, like 99% of it?

I guess you could try this with a glaze, but it's not going to be easy.

I think the key is making sure the color is correct and the application is even.

I know a few others maybe would have some additional ideas.

It couldn't hurt to start with the bleaching.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Everyone... Thanks for the input/help/advice..
> 
> I did learn a few things last night that might help....
> 
> ...


If your examination is correct and what your saying is true, with no distinct staining and no apparent colorant in the grain, then your dealing with a bleached product.

You'll have to order your bleach because it isn't your regular Clorox, it's a two component product.

Good luck and I suggest doing a lot of research prior to messing around with it.

I know your not a professional painter/finisher, but with some of the things involved with wood finishing there can be some heavy duty chemicals involved. Not like rolling/brushing some paint on and calling it good. You have thinners, lacquers sometimes, bleaches, etc., so you need to be knowledgeable on a lot of those subjects.

Good luck with the experimenting, it takes a lot of time and a lot of trail and error.


----------

