# Daly's wood bleach, wait time til clear coat.



## ridesarize

I'm bleaching out this sapele countertop front edge. Just applied the bleach mixture, waited 20-30 minutes and then rinsed with two passes, and wiped dry. 

The room is warm but I don't think there's a fan here, the heat pump pushes the air in the room decently though. How long should I wait to brush on some zar ultra max?
I'm wondering if the bleach could mess up the clear coat I guess. 

My tenative plan so far is wait another 30, and hit it with a fine sanding pad, vacuum. Give it a tiny bit of time then coat it.


----------



## ridesarize

Well, jobs going good,. Got everything first coated and will be ready to scuff and recoat very soon. Edit, coating now.

The Daly's bleach did a great of bringing the deep red sapele color closer to a brown oak look.


----------



## ridesarize

Job done, everything went awesome. On Friday, I sanded all the sapele, and bleached and rinsed it, but it was the wrong product and wasn't strong enough. So, 
Today I bleached with the right product, rinsed, dried all these counter top front edges. Then sanded with 220 and fine sanding pad. Vacuumed , and brushed on 3 coats, with the recommended 2 hrs between coats. Also filled the nail holes before 3rd coat. 

When 3rd coat was done being applied I immediately started cleaning up and pulling masking, reassembling cabinets and vacumming everything including inside and outside of cabinets. 

The final coat, which also had a dab of brown color added, dried really fast and was dry enough so unmasking was not problematic.

The small wood sample shows what the sapele wood, would have looked like had I not bleached it correctly (the second time) :smile:


----------



## ridesarize

Woo hoo. Success


----------



## eews

not familiar with Daly's - what kind of bleach is it?

And what did you use the second time?


----------



## ridesarize

eews said:


> not familiar with Daly's - what kind of bleach is it?
> 
> And what did you use the second time?


It is probably oxalic acid but not totally sure, and what tbe part b is I don't know. I didn't look into much but have heard about the product for a while from locals and the paint store.

It's Daly's A and B bleach, here is the link. No need for seperate neutralize product other than water
The first milder product was Daly's bleaching solution, oxalic acid and neutralizer powder. Apply oxalic, then rinse, then apply neutralizer, then rinse... The A + B was powerful and easier to use actually.

http://www.dalyswoodfinishes.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22


----------



## eews

seems like Daly's is just a standard 2 part bleach.

Your post sounds like you used two different bleaching products ( you said second time was the "right one").
so just curious if that's the case, and what they other one was.


----------



## ridesarize

Both are Daly's. First pass on Friday was the Oxalic Acid and neutralizer crystals. Upon reading instructions it says "Not a 'Full Method' wood bleach. Before going out to the job I didn't know that I needed the stronger stuff yet though. The Oxalic Acid had little to no effect. But not too much time was wasted there, since I had to mask, disassemble some cabinets and prep everything beforehand anyways.

So the second product I used Monday was Daly's Wood Bleach Kit. Part A is Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Silicate. Part B is Hydrogen Peroxide. Mix 1 part A with 3 parts B, pot life is 30 minutes. Apply and neutralise with rinse water after 20 minutes
. I waited about 30 minutes through, and double rinsed.


----------



## ridesarize

Following those steps, sanding again with 320 or worn in 220 paper is needed, regardless that it was sanded beautifully prior to bleaching.


----------



## eews

ok
ty


----------

