# Exterior Paint Removal wood house



## welovepainting

Here is a job that we are on now. The wood house is 130 years old, we are the lucky ones choosen to remove all the paint. I will update the pictures as the job goes on.


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## painterman

Man... who did you piss off to get that job. Your braver then me.


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## vicopainting

*Wow ! hands down to you and your crew !! I never seen something like it, Miami all concrete houses. This is the most of wood I`ve done.*










*And now We are doing commercial.*
Praying for this one....


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## Nathan

Wow, that's one labor intensive job. I almost set the side of a house on fire one time trying to burn off paint on a house like that. :whistling2: 

Anyways, nice pics... thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:


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## Rich

Matt, have you ever seen infrared paint removers? They aren't super pricey, take off ALL paint with minimal heat, which means latex, oil, or lead can be done safely, quickly, and easily...check it out

http://www.eco-strip.com/ProdStripper.htmlhttp://www.eco-strip.com/Products.html


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## Nathan

Rich said:


> Matt, have you ever seen infrared paint removers? They aren't super pricey, take off ALL paint with minimal heat, which means latex, oil, or lead can be done safely, quickly, and easily...check it out
> 
> http://www.eco-strip.com/ProdStripper.html


That's a pretty cool product. I've never seen one before.

Do you use one?


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## Rich

Nathan said:


> Do you use one?


This is where I'm supposed to say, "yes". 

But I haven't...yet. I was given the opportunity on a HUGE mansion, but I have no frickin' time. The HO bought 2 of them and said they are amazing...

ugg


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## CApainter

Impressive! Looks like a good way to remove lead paint. Thanks for the photos.


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## Ethan

Nathan said:


> That's a pretty cool product. I've never seen one before.
> 
> Do you use one?



We have done a few small projects with the "silent paint remover" http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm

We have one starting next week to strip two small porches, 4 window sills, and about 150sq/ft of siding/trim. 

It is a pre-1978 home so we got lead-safe certified for the project. 

Nice thing about the infrared, is it only gets about 400 degrees, so it is very hard to set the wood on fire(about 750 degrees) but plenty hot to strip the paint. 

It is VERY COOL, but VERY SLOW. I believe the production rate could go very quickly if we invested in all the different articulating arms and stuff that hold it in place while you're scraping what you previously had it resting on... but we don't have enough demand yet, and experience with it to go that route just yet....

I will post some pics and progress as we get it started if ya'll are interested. 

Question though for you guys that have alot of experience with stripping paint. 

What do you do with the surface after it is stripped? we recently did 18 4' x 15' flying buttresses with stripper, belt sanded what was underneath, cleaned, primed, and painted. the customer wasn't expecting ANY of that kind of prep work(prestigious private school in our town) and has already given us a TON more work and we've gotten nice referrals and know that we have built an awesome first impression of ourselves for them, BUT I still didn't think they looked as awesome as I expected they would... luckily they did! 

It was like it needed some kind of extra step(like some kind of exterior dry wall compound, but obviously not that... As you can tell, I'm not much of a technician:whistling2 Any suggestions for what I'm missing? 

Would love to know before we start on this next project next week(which is on a very prominent street in town with alot of traffic - I want to wow the neighbors...)

thanks guys for your help!!! 


Ethan


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## SgtBaldy

Wow! 

I am another Florida concrete house wus.


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## painterman

Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.


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## Ethan

painterman said:


> Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.


thanks painterman for the tip. 

we use bondo, recommendations for a better product?


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## Workaholic

painterman said:


> Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.


Bondo? I hate that stuff.


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## welovepainting

Here are some progress pictures. After stripping the paint we had to wait 30 days to prime and repaint. I will post finish pictures when complete sometime next week we are noww priming.


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## Tmrrptr

That's a great idea to apply the peel, n strip with a texture pump!
...what a mess... hate that stuff!
How many man hours to strip an old project like that?
r


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## Barry M

Wow that is remarkable so far, thanks for the pics.


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## johnleeke

(see new message)


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## mjay

Ethan said:


> We have done a few small projects with the "silent paint remover" http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm
> 
> We have one starting next week to strip two small porches, 4 window sills, and about 150sq/ft of siding/trim.
> 
> It is a pre-1978 home so we got lead-safe certified for the project.
> 
> Nice thing about the infrared, is it only gets about 400 degrees, so it is very hard to set the wood on fire(about 750 degrees) but plenty hot to strip the paint.
> 
> It is VERY COOL, but VERY SLOW. I believe the production rate could go very quickly if we invested in all the different articulating arms and stuff that hold it in place while you're scraping what you previously had it resting on... but we don't have enough demand yet, and experience with it to go that route just yet....
> 
> I will post some pics and progress as we get it started if ya'll are interested.
> 
> Question though for you guys that have alot of experience with stripping paint.
> 
> What do you do with the surface after it is stripped? we recently did 18 4' x 15' flying buttresses with stripper, belt sanded what was underneath, cleaned, primed, and painted. the customer wasn't expecting ANY of that kind of prep work(prestigious private school in our town) and has already given us a TON more work and we've gotten nice referrals and know that we have built an awesome first impression of ourselves for them, BUT I still didn't think they looked as awesome as I expected they would... luckily they did!
> 
> It was like it needed some kind of extra step(like some kind of exterior dry wall compound, but obviously not that... As you can tell, I'm not much of a technician:whistling2 Any suggestions for what I'm missing?
> 
> Would love to know before we start on this next project next week(which is on a very prominent street in town with alot of traffic - I want to wow the neighbors...)
> 
> thanks guys for your help!!!
> 
> 
> Ethan


For the past two years all we've done is paint restorations on cedar siding our procedure is as follows: Strip [pro-shaver] - sand [pro-sander] - oil prime- 120 grit [orbital] - two finish coats with lights hand sand in-between. Invest in a Hepa Vacuum and a pro-shaver if your removing paint.

Heres a pic of after pro-shaver


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## mjay

*After pro-shaver*

Close up of after pro-sander, as you can see the corners need hand scraping.


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## mjay

*Finished product and a before pic*

Doesn't show up well in pic, but previous painter had smoothed over all cracks and alligatoring with filler [4 years prior].


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## Tmrrptr

You guys do really good work!
r


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## mjay

Regards question "missing step ..... exterior drywall compound". 
My experience is caulk butt joints, glazing putty for nail/small holes. Wood siding expands and contracts with the seasons, no filler can emulate that and will prematurely fail, affecting durability of finish. Caulk and putty retain flexibility and should outlast the finish. Replace damaged boards.


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## mjay

p.s. Kudos to original poster. Clean up must have been a pita. Interested in neutralizing process?? What did you use?


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## johnleeke

*Steam Paint Removal*

Up here in New England we have been developing the Steam Paint Removal method. We also use chemical, infrared lamp, etc, but the steam has definite advantages:

-- no costly chemicals
-- damp process helps control lead 
-- cannot burn down the house

I'm not supposed to link to my own website, so if you want more info just Google on "steam paint removal". (I don't sell the equipment, I don't contract to do paint removal, I do research and development on this method.)

John
by hammer and hand great works do stand


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## cole191919

Hey Mjay, that is superb work. But I was just curious about a few tools you said you used. Such as a pro-shaver or pro-sander? These arent brand names so I was kind of curious if they have another name or I am just brain dead. I have a job coming up in the spring like what you have shown and I could use some advice on simplifying the project or even just making my work more efficient and quality based. Thanks


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## plainpainter

MJAY & Wolverine - great work, how much do you charge for that kind of work? Man - I'd say those are least 40-50k + jobs. I have a porter-cable tungsten carbide grinder tool that does similar results - but needs to be orbital sanded right after - but it is time consuming! And nobody wants to pay!


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## mjay

finish pic


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## mjay

mid-way pic


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## mjay

Just a little more to go.


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## mjay

cole191919 said:


> Hey Mjay, that is superb work. But I was just curious about a few tools you said you used. Such as a pro-shaver or pro-sander? These arent brand names so I was kind of curious if they have another name or I am just brain dead. I have a job coming up in the spring like what you have shown and I could use some advice on simplifying the project or even just making my work more efficient and quality based. Thanks



Sorry I didn't get back to you, I mostly stick to the Contractor Talk Forum.
http://www.paintshaver.com. 
Expect to pay $700 for each machine, plus the cost of a shop-vac. Buy the shop vacs that use filters and a bag.
Any questions visit my site below and drop an email for faster response.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT

Wow spraying peel away. Amazingly brave souls you all are!


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