# Aura not curing



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Twice this has happened this year.

Both high traffic doors in two separate daycares.

Previous paint was solid on both doors.

On the first door (metal), I scuff sanded and washed with soap and water. That is about a year ago....paint is soft to this day. I'm going back to strip and do again. This is the first time I've ever gone back to redo something. They didn't ask me, but I was there for something else, checked my paint and said that wasn't right. (not impressed with this)

To add to this....two doors at different entrances at this daycare were done by another company. They used Cloverdale paint. They are a building company and had one of the guys throw some paint on the doors. Adhered, and cured hard. Ticks me off and baffles me that their no wash or scuff is cured and mine is failed. 

Second door...

Wood. I thought maybe soap wasn't enough on the other door so I scuffed and TSP'd and rinsed well. Painted it last weekend. Was back tonight and it was much better than the other one, but felt soft, could put my finger nail into it. 

I'm frustrated and baffled. Anyone experience Aura not curing? 

Suggestions/ideas/comments?



There's more doors. I already bought Aura, but I'm not going to use it. Try something else this time.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Aura is a gimmick and sucks.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Yeah, i've noticed that too. I don't care for Aura on trim. It stays sticky forever it seems. I'll only use the stuff on walls when I know i'm going to have hiding issues - other than that, I stick with ben or collection (when i'm using benny moore).


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Aura is a gimmick and sucks.



Give me a suggestion brotha....I'm ticked about this!


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Rcon said:


> Yeah, i've noticed that too. I don't care for Aura on trim. It stays sticky forever it seems. I'll only use the stuff on walls when I know i'm going to have hiding issues - other than that, I stick with ben or collection (when i'm using benny moore).



Completely agree, I've stopped using it on trim also.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I'm back to a-200 myself. Two coats of anything will work for walls. Pro-Classic for all my trim tho. Hard as a rock. That's the SW perspective from me.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Interior or exterior paint? I have heard of the exterior taking for ever to cure for some guys. I have always found that Benjamin Moore products take longer to cure for adhesion at least than most other companies. With Aura though, I once painted satin on a wall and it sanded to a powder in less than 30 minutes.

Hard to figure. Did the second coat go on really soon after the first with maybe both coats heavy that could have prevents a full cure? I do not think that is likely, just hard to figure how a fast drying product like Aura can not cure. Paint does weird stuff sometimes.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Paint definitely does weird stuff...


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Interior or exterior paint? I have heard of the exterior taking for ever to cure for some guys. I have always found that Benjamin Moore products take longer to cure for adhesion at least than most other companies. With Aura though, I once painted satin on a wall and it sanded to a powder in less than 30 minutes.
> 
> Hard to figure. Did the second coat go on really soon after the first with maybe both coats heavy that could have prevents a full cure? I do not think that is likely, just hard to figure how a fast drying product like Aura can not cure. Paint does weird stuff sometimes.


Interior.

Exactly. I thought about the variables, did I push it?, clean enough?, humidity?, previous coats etc....

Happened once I would have thought, "sucky....weird", twice is in the "wtf is going on?" realm. 

I've been trying more and more SW stuff and each time have liked the results....I think that's where I'll go with the rest of the doors. 

Now, I'll go the the eco zone for a eco-friendly stripper. This stuff is going to peel easily, but I'm super annoyed I'm going to have redo something. Luckily I'll be there for something else so I can double up my time.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I wonder if it is a mil thickness thing. I find Aura goes on pretty thin for how I apply it. Maybe that is why I have not had the curing issues. Load it up thick and maybe it does not cure through as well???? Just guessing. I really do no think P and H did anything wrong, just trying to figure out if there is some application quirk that might explain why several have run into this issue and others have not.


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## SterlingPainting (Jan 3, 2010)

What was the temperature/humidity like in the space? 
I'm not familiar with Aura paint, is it self-priming? 

Maybe try using a tough quickdry primer, then aura on top.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Interior.
> 
> Exactly. I thought about the variables, did I push it?, clean enough?, humidity?, previous coats etc....
> 
> ...


Was the color a deep base?

It's fun to have to work your ass of with a product with a $59.99 retail sticker. 





Try SW Acrylic DTM.:thumbsup:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

For us, Aura has been our most trouble free, consistent paint ever. Especially on walls, and so far so good on trim. We do not use it often on trim however.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Aura is garbage at any price...Why would anyone pay $60 a gallon for a paint that is so difficult to use?..It dries fast yet it sags...very odd stuff...You are suckered by marketing if you buy that crap.I wouldn't use it if was $20 per gallon.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Was the color a deep base?
> 
> It's fun to have to work your ass of with a product with a $59.99 retail sticker.
> 
> ...



Oh....now your sprinkling salt on the wound.....I pay $70!

Yes, deep base...blue. I wonder if colour with Aura matters as much? 

I'll talk to the SW guy.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

JoseyWales said:


> Aura is garbage at any price...Why would anyone pay $60 a gallon for a paint that is so difficult to use?..It dries fast yet it sags...very odd stuff...You are a sucker for advertising if you buy that crap.I wouldn't use it if was $20 per gallon.



Don't agree.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

We used about 350 gallons of Aura last year and I think most of them really sucked.

NC interior/Exterior
Residential repaint interior and exterior. 
Spray/brush/roll


If you like the look of Aura on trim try Advance. Me like.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

I'm pretty comfortable in my opinion of Aura. Defiantly didn't want this to turn into an opinionated like/hate of the product. 

No paint 'does it all'.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> If you like the look of Aura on trim try *Advance*. Me like.


Talk about curing times, that stuff takes for ever.

I freaking love Aura, the only issues I have is the sagging on detailed type trim. 

Pat


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Neps said:


> Try SW Acrylic DTM.


 Nice product and one of the four.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

PatsPainting said:


> Talk about curing times, that stuff takes for ever.
> 
> I freaking love Aura, the only issues I have is the sagging on detailed type trim.
> 
> Pat



That's good to hear actually. I thought it was me and how I was applying it, hence my agreement with Rcon and stopped using it for trim.

Hmmmmm, maybe stick to only eggshell and flat? 

Maybe the sheen is the contributing flaw?


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> That's good to hear actually. I thought it was me and how I was applying it, hence my agreement with Rcon and stopped using it for trim.
> 
> Hmmmmm, maybe stick to only eggshell and flat?
> 
> Maybe the sheen is the contributing flaw?


I'm not really sure what the issue is. It's just something that happens with the SG. When I'm using it, I just check back after about 5 minutes or so. Places to check would be the corners on the door stops, fancy crown, this type of stuff. 

But it sure does lay off nicely, and looks good after. 

On exterior all I use now is Aura, except stucco and block walls or similar stuff. It's overkill on these areas.

Pat


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## George Z (Apr 15, 2007)

JoseyWales said:


> Aura is garbage at any price...Why would anyone pay $60 a gallon for a paint that is so difficult to use?..It dries fast yet it sags...very odd stuff...You are suckered by marketing if you buy that crap.I wouldn't use it if was $20 per gallon.


We used hundreds of gallons, looks great, works good.


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## George Z (Apr 15, 2007)

Benjamin Moore's DTM if it has to be B. Moore.
Same product as Coronado's


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

What was the color? Was it a custom match, or a standard manufacturers color?


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## nararabbit (Feb 27, 2011)

Heavy colorant loads always seem to dry slowly... or not at all (depending on the paint.) I recently used Ace's Cabinet, Door and Trim paint and was very happy with it. Leveled nicely, even on a vertical surface. Mine was over BIN and I needed two coats with a midtone turquoise, it dries in 24 hours (slow, I know) but it was dry to the touch after 6-8. Just no sanding or anything. It's also surprisingly inexpensive, only $19 at my local store (and they can tint it.)


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

But it's Benjamin Moore! You paid for the most expensive paint on the market! Certainly it's not the paint. Insert smirk icon


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## crazywasp (Dec 22, 2010)

Did a good chunk of my personal residence with it when it was called detail something. Not impressed with the coverage, I don't use it. Did I read that right...wall paint on a metal door? Where's the old man n archetek screaming professional?

Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk


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## nararabbit (Feb 27, 2011)

I noticed that too. I didn't want to be an a$$hole though. I guess if it were primed with the right primer.... maybe...?


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> What was the color? Was it a custom match, or a standard manufacturers color?


Also, did you add any extender?


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

crazywasp said:


> Don't even get me going on extenders n jap driers...j H c. A salesman is not your friend, he is a salesman.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk


I was asking the question, and im asking the right questions I might add. Extenders can soften paints, and affect cure time. :thumbsup:


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## Mod Paint Works (Jul 2, 2010)

Waterborne paints can take up to a month to cure. The water has to completely evaporate from the product before it is fully cured. Maybe that's your issue..?? Give it some time before assuming it hasn't fully cured. If you need something that cures a lot faster and is indestructible don't use waterborne and try something with enamel maybe 

Aura's an awesome paint! Takes some getting used to, but 'sits' into itself for good leveling and dries fast for second coats. It covers better than most other paints (prime & paint products are gimmicks) and I get more coverage from 1 gallon due to that. It's my understanding that the molecular build is a lot denser, thus spreading/covering better (nerd). I'm a big BM fan and so are my clients!


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## crazywasp (Dec 22, 2010)

My appoligies, you are absolutely correct. Extenders and driers dramatically change the product specs. He might have to use a product to "lock it down" and start again.

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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

crazywasp said:


> Did I read that right...wall paint on a metal door? Where's the old man n archetek screaming professional?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk





nararabbit said:


> I noticed that too. I didn't want to be an a$$hole though. I guess if it were primed with the right primer.... maybe...?



What makes a paint a "wall" paint or a "trim" paint? If you both believe using any paint for trim paint is wrong, please elaborate and explain.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

No extender.

Door was painted months ago. Plenty of time to cure.

Sorry NC, if its truly important I can go to my paper file, but I don't remember exactly what the colour was. It's a bit darker than it was here.

Pre-painted metal door.

These are from before I painted them. The paint is chipped but adhered. I scuff sanded until all edges were smooth. Washed, wiped and painted. 

BTW - I described the situation and showed these pics to the rep prior to painting and Aura was recommended.

Personal comments are unnecessary. 

My gut is telling me there might have been some type of residual commercial cleaner on the surface. (??)


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## nararabbit (Feb 27, 2011)

I don't consider a metal door 'trim.' Perhaps I am wrong in that thinking. But it will have different adhesion, different reactions, etc. For example, a metal door would have a cooler or warmer temperature than a wooden one in the same room, which would affect drying time. it also has no absorbency at all and it won't breathe. I would use a paint specifically for metal. Just because a paint is great in some ways doesn't make it THE PAINT for every single job.... just a thought.


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## crazywasp (Dec 22, 2010)

I personally only use BM Impervo low luster for interior trim. Made the switch to waterborne seven years ago when moved back to the east coast. If the property is historic or architecturally beautiful I will use the oil because nothing beats that candy coated feel and look, it also ambers nicely which adds to that timeless feel.

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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I love Aura for walls and use it for almost all my repaints (we have applied at least 20 gallons so far this month), however I am having some issues with a custom built FP mantel and I painted with AURA Satin finish, custom colour match. It has been well over 9 months and it appears/ feels like it is blocking. Every thing she sets on it sticks immediately and will leave a transfer mark if left too long. I am going back in May to paint her basement and may put a few coats of BM Advance on it.

$70 is retail price....not our price....


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## crazywasp (Dec 22, 2010)

Certainly didn't mean to insult personaly. Sometimes poop simply happens. I had a metal front door aligator skin on me overnight for some unknown reason. Had it stripped back down before the HO even knew I was onsite. Followed the same procedure and had no problems the second time around. Still don't know WTF happened. My professionalism and rapid correction was rewarded with a neighbors property. Didn't even think about charging more or involving a rep. Poop happens don't take it personally. I would say you're correct with the residue theory.

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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Knew you would be kicking around soon Jeff. :thumbsup:

This sound similar??


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## canadianpainter (Mar 7, 2009)

I've used Aura daily pretty much since it came out and I've never experienced sagging. The only painter I've ever spoken with that complained of sagging was a relative of mine and he's a brutal painter; puts on way too much material and leaves way too many brush marks.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Knew you would be kicking around soon Jeff. :thumbsup:
> 
> This sound similar??



Yes, We are having similar issues/ concerns. I have a small NC with 20 doors, BB, casings, jambs, sills etc., we hit with one coat AURA Satin CC40 in the new shop before Christmas and will be heading back in a few weeks to finish up. I will top coat with another product (BM Natura most likely) just for peace of mind.

We have also painted about 12 separate custom cabinets with it in different bases. Flashing has been the issue with the 2 and 3 bases and all bases feel sticky - however it does sand out nice and powdery...?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Paradigmzz said:


> What makes a paint a "wall" paint or a "trim" paint? If you both believe using any paint for trim paint is wrong, please elaborate and explain.





nararabbit said:


> I don't consider a metal door 'trim.' Perhaps I am wrong in that thinking. But it will have different adhesion, different reactions, etc. For example, a metal door would have a cooler or warmer temperature than a wooden one in the same room, which would affect drying time. it also has no absorbency at all and it won't breathe. I would use a paint specifically for metal. Just because a paint is great in some ways doesn't make it THE PAINT for every single job.... just a thought.




I was baiting you guys for an answer. DTM is great... when they are raw doors or bare metal. When a surface has been painted and repainted so many times, it is still a substrate, no different than any other. I do use different paints for different applications, but the more time elapses, and the more competent I become as a painter using everything available under the sun, the less I feel it necessary to use a certain paint for just walls or just trim. IMO


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> Aura is a gimmick and sucks.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Here where I rule the universe ( my basement office..) I painted a couple of 4 panel doors with WB Impervo, Satin Aura and Advance. one door has a panel of each. Done last fall- besides a little different in application, it is really hard to see or feel much difference between the finishes. 
I am expecting to see the Advance panel to yellow more, but so far not. All about same hardness and feel. 
My 2 centavos. I use Aura satin for repaint enamel.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

P&H 

I was curious of the color, thinking that maybe it was over-tinted. From the pics you posted, it just looks like wear. It shouldnt wear that quickly, but the waterbornes take much longer to reach their full cure, and those doors needed to be returned to service quickly....not to mention they look like they're pretty high traffic. Aura would have been fine in a residential setting, but commercial doors, I would stick with DTM. It will dry much harder much quicker.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> P&H
> 
> I was curious of the color, thinking that maybe it was over-tinted. From the pics you posted, it just looks like wear. It shouldnt wear that quickly, but the waterbornes take much longer to reach their full cure, and those doors needed to be returned to service quickly....not to mention they look like they're pretty high traffic. Aura would have been fine in a residential setting, but commercial doors, I would stick with DTM. It will dry much harder much quicker.



Thanks NC - I'll take this one as 'lesson learned'. (Those were 'before' pics BTW) 

I'm not passing the buck, but I did run it past the BM rep and Aura was his recommendation. He's been there 20 plus years, but I don't trust his knowledge....and less so again.

I'm replacing all the bathroom stalls there in a few weeks so I'll have a guy strip and redo it.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

Aura Flat on exterior seemed to cure like a charm, however, I was using Aura Semi Gloss exterior on a front door and I had to put on 5 coats over a few days because each coat was not curing. IT was last summer, 25 degrees out. I ended up doing the final coat in HP2000 by General Paint and it was fine.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Thanks NC - I'll take this one as 'lesson learned'. (Those were 'before' pics BTW)
> 
> I'm not passing the buck, but I did run it past the BM rep and Aura was his recommendation. He's been there 20 plus years, but I don't trust his knowledge....and less so again.
> 
> I'm replacing all the bathroom stalls there in a few weeks so I'll have a guy strip and redo it.


I dont think stripping is needed. In a few weeks it should be pretty well cured. Light sand and a coat of DTM. 


I wouldnt blame the Rep. He tried to find the best product for the job, and given more cure time before use, it probably would have been. When we spec products we try to find something that will cover the widest variety of variables. Ie..dark color, fast dry time, good leveling..etc etc. If anything, he underestimated the amount of quick abuse the doors would take, something everyone needs to remember as products become "greener". One of the major drawbacks to being eco-friendly


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Dunbar Painting said:


> Aura Flat on exterior seemed to cure like a charm, however, I was using Aura Semi Gloss exterior on a front door and I had to put on 5 coats over a few days because each coat was not curing. IT was last summer, 25 degrees out. I ended up doing the final coat in HP2000 by General Paint and it was fine.


Multiple coats compounds the problem with curing. I cant say that ive seen it much with latex's, but oil's ive seen it much more. Guys coat oil too quickly and it stays tacky forever.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> I dont think stripping is needed. In a few weeks it should be pretty well cured. Light sand and a coat of DTM.
> 
> 
> I wouldnt blame the Rep. He tried to find the best product for the job, and given more cure time before use, it probably would have been. When we spec products we try to find something that will cover the widest variety of variables. Ie..dark color, fast dry time, good leveling..etc etc. If anything, he underestimated the amount of quick abuse the doors would take, something everyone needs to remember as products become "greener". One of the major drawbacks to being eco-friendly


I would blame the Rep. He tried to sell you the product with the highest margin for the job, given more cure time (5-7 years) the paint would have worn through to the old coating and no stripping would have been needed. Paint stores spec products to get money from the widest variety of variables - poor hide, high build, poor adhesion, transparency, scuffability, roller spray, sundry destruction etc... If anything the painter was an idiot for expecting paint that costs 5x as much as it did 10 years ago to perform half as good. One of the major drawbacks of being a painter.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Metro M & L said:


> I would blame the Rep. He tried to sell you the product with the highest margin for the job, given more cure time (5-7 years) the paint would have worn through to the old coating and no stripping would have been needed. Paint stores spec products to get money from the widest variety of variables - poor hide, high build, poor adhesion, transparency, scuffability, roller spray, sundry destruction etc... If anything the painter was an idiot for expecting paint that costs 5x as much as it did 10 years ago to perform half as good. One of the major drawbacks of being a painter.


If that were the case I'd sell Behr :thumbsup:


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

My mistrust of the rep's advise is not isolated to this situation...and not for the reasons you describe Metro. 

Simply, I think this guy is tired. Been doing this a long time (can't imagine they get paid well) he's often playing poker on the computer when I walk in the back....he's just not 'thinking' anymore.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

I used a SW WB on some restaurant (kitchen) doors last summer only for them to wear off and gum up wherever they put their grimy hands on them. Went back in January and used BM Super Spec Urethane Alkyd - an industrial grade door and trim paint. 3 months later it's still high gloss and very hard finish. Wouldn't use it in a residential setting but it has definitely proven to be durable in a very harsh test environment. Might be good for a daycare door


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

My BM rep is young, inexperienced, (like all the staff at the store) and frankly not very helpful. I only go to BM if I absolutely have to. Their prices on paint and sundries are way more than anywhere else, their staff are way less knowledgeable. 
*If* I could find a BM sales rep with knowledge, customer service, and some better pricing, I would gladly experiment with and use the products.

As it is, SW sales rep gives me the best pricing and help as needed. Their staff at the local store are knowledgeable and helpful. Not snotty and stuck up like BM staff.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Dunbar Painting said:


> My BM rep is young, inexperienced, (like all the staff at the store) and frankly not very helpful. I only go to BM if I absolutely have to. Their prices on paint and sundries are way more than anywhere else, their staff are way less knowledgeable.
> *If* I could find a BM sales rep with knowledge, customer service, and some better pricing, I would gladly experiment with and use the products.
> 
> As it is, SW sales rep gives me the best pricing and help as needed. Their staff at the local store are knowledgeable and helpful. Not snotty and stuck up like BM staff.


Maybe when you told them that you put on 5 coats of aura semi gloss in a few days, they just shook their head and said "We have home owner in disguise" 

Pat


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

PatsPainting said:


> Maybe when you told them that you put on 5 coats of aura semi gloss in a few days, they just shook their head and said "We have home owner in disguise"
> 
> Pat


Maybe you have no idea what you are talking about and taking somethings out of context. I see on your website you are a BM lover... I understand your feelings now... I am sorry I hurt them.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

I've put SW ProClassic on a few metal doors, always with great results. It takes about two weeks for it to cure hard, but it should withstand plenty of abuse.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Dunbar Painting said:


> I was using Aura Semi Gloss exterior on a front door and I had to put on 5 coats over a few days because each coat was not curing.


I hear what your saying, sometimes after it rains here the wood is still wet, I need it to dry out, so what I do is spray more water on it...

Pat


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

PatsPainting said:


> I hear what your saying, sometimes after it rains here the wood is still wet, I need it to dry out, so what I do is spray more water on it...
> 
> Pat


I would say 4-8 hours between coats over "a few days" of a supposedly fast drying paint in 25 degree non humid weather should be okay. 

But I guess you are the expert right?


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

Dunbar Painting said:


> I would say 4-8 hours between coats over "a few days" of a supposedly fast drying paint in 25 degree non humid weather should be okay.
> 
> But I guess you are the expert right?


 
I think five coats of anything is too much. If you were having a problem, why did you keep applying the same product? 

Just curious.


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## gqmixmaster (Apr 22, 2009)

ligboozer said:


> I think five coats of anything is too much. If you were having a problem, why did you keep applying the same product?
> 
> Just curious.



Repeating the same result over and over again expecting a different result each time is the definition of insanity. 

With the low VOC paints, only recoat when the first coat is dry and not sticky. If it doesnt dry then sand it off and get a different paint. Once you find something that works in the ways that are most fundamental, (workability, drying, sealing and sheen etc) stick with it. 

The best paint is the one that works the best given the conditions for which you work. Environment, humidity and application method should dictate what product applies to the job best as well. If I live on the coast, it doesnt mean I can use the same paint I preferred there in the middle of the prairies.


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