# Hardie plank questions



## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Have a 5 year old Hardie siding house to bid. Never done this before after over 35 years in the biz. Standard pressure cleaning, but do I need to apply masonry conditioner before applying finish coat. In Fl. we always put on the conditioner on any concrete based materials, so I'm not sure if this qualifies. Secondly, the butt joints where two pieces meet have been caulked. Several different websites say the should have been more say to leave them open. H.O. asked me to caulk them again, I'm leaning to leaving them open. 
Appreciate any feedback.. thanks, Pd.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Have it on my house and just used a quality exterior grade primer where needed. Current paint job is at 11 years and doing great (and we get lots of rain). HP takes paint like a dream..


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Sorry - missed the caulking part. I did caulk mine just to keep the water out. I installed my own and IMO what was most important was having a gap at the butt joints to allow for the expansion that occurs. A quality caulk should allow that to occur. Again, have not experienced any issues.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

*Really*

only one guy replied to my Hardy siding question. Damn, you folks must be boooooooooooooooooooooooming. I could use some help


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

You're welcome.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

painterdude said:


> only one guy replied to my Hardy siding question. Damn, you folks must be boooooooooooooooooooooooming. I could use some help


Okay, I will bite since I've done tons on Hardy siding repaints. Clean, dry, caulk (I like to use quad or sikaflex that remain flexable for longer than most painter caulks),mask, spray only two coat of the 100% acrylic of your choice, your done. No priming usually necessary since its all pre-primed and previously painted. The only prep and priming necessary on hardy sided house is usually on the wood trim boards.

I hope this helped.


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

The Hardie site has some pretty clear comments regarding their product. For example, they do not see any need to 'back prime.' They also discuss spacing in their installation guidelines.

Simply put, the stuff holds paint like a dream. Any gap a nickel won't fit in doesn't need caulk. Ordinary paint is just fine, no need for any special conditioner. I'm assuming the stuff has been painted in the past.


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## ProPaintcrew (Apr 25, 2011)

Most of the houses in my area are hardie siding..
I powerwash, caulk the butt joints and ends @ the corner boards with decent caulk, and spray with superpaint flat or satin - 2 coats.
Its the easiest type of siding repaint in my opinion.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Okay, I will bite since I've done tons on Hardy siding repaints. Clean, dry, caulk (I like to use quad or sikaflex that remain flexable for longer than most painter caulks),mask, spray only two coat of the 100% acrylic of your choice, your done. No priming usually necessary since its all pre-primed and previously painted. The only prep and priming necessary on hardy sided house is usually on the wood trim boards.
> 
> I hope this helped.


It Figures the Hound would bite 1st.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

mudbone said:


> It Figures the Hound would bite 1st.


I'm more like the pit bull curled up on the front porch, outside the front door, of the house you are about to bid on. Watching with one barely open eye as you approach _:yawn:_ calm like a bomb.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

painterdude said:


> Have a 5 year old Hardie siding house to bid. Never done this before after over 35 years in the biz. Standard pressure cleaning, but do I need to apply masonry conditioner before applying finish coat. In Fl. we always put on the conditioner on any concrete based materials, so I'm not sure if this qualifies. Secondly, the butt joints where two pieces meet have been caulked. Several different websites say the should have been more say to leave them open. H.O. asked me to caulk them again, I'm leaning to leaving them open.
> Appreciate any feedback.. thanks, Pd.


 In my opinion the caulking is only neccesary for aesthetics. Clean and paint with 100% acrylic.


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## Painter Chick (Mar 1, 2012)

If it was caulked before and the homeowner wants it re-caulked,do it! Caulking is not required because it should be flashed behind each seam, with metal flashing, not something the painter does! If it needs spot primed, do it!! 
If you are changing colors I would recommend 2 coats of PPG exterior acrylic, if its the same color as before one coat should be enough!:thumbup:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Here's what is says on the their website (http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardieplank-hz5.pdf )

_"*Note: Caulking at field butt joints is not 
recommended for ColorPlus for aesthetic reasons as the 
caulking and ColorPlus will weather differently. 
**Note: Field painting over caulking may produce a sheen difference when compared to the field painted PrimePlus. ***Refer to Caulking section in these instructions. 
1For additional information on HardieWrap® Weather Barrier, consult James Hardie at 1-866-4Hardie or www.hardiewrap.com 
INSTALLATION: 
JOINT TREATMENT 
• Joint flashing behind field butt joints is 
required for ColorPlus and recommended 
for primed products. 
• DO NOT Caulk field butt joints on 
ColorPlus siding.* 
• It is OK to Caulk field butt joints on 
James Hardie primed siding products 
that is to be field painted.** 
• DO caulk where HardiePlank® meets 
vertical trim."_


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

thanks to all of you for the help. Lots of good info. I'll pass the info on to the homeowner and make recommendations. Never to old to learn about new stuff. I always figure it's better to ask from those with more experience than me. Like I said, I've been doing this since the early 70's but never painted Hardie board before. That's why I come and check out this site.


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