# Feeding a pressure washer from a tank?



## mpminter

I am looking to expand the pressure washing side of my business so I have been slowly picking up the equipment I need in order to make that happen. I now have a 275 gallon water tank, a 7000lb GVWR trailer, and a 4 gpm pressure washer. My question is, what is the best way to feed my washer off of the tank? I would like to be able to move the machine around a house using a garden hose as a supply line, but that means I would need some sort of electric or gas powered pump to push the water from the tank to the pressure washer. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!:notworthy:


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## PressurePros

Its so much easier to have hose reels and enough hose to move around the job. 150' is on our reels with 2 50' back ups. 50' of supply hose is usually plenty. What you are thinking would be a logistical nightmare.


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## rehoboth

:thumbup:
Exactly what Ken said , it will make life so much easier


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## mpminter

Thanks for the input Ken. I can see your point, and I agree completely, although my core issue is still the same. How do I feed my pressure washer from a tank? with a setup like what I have, I looks like I'll need to take the pressure washer off the trailer, set it right next to the trailer, and then drag high pressure lines off reels around the house. Even right next to the trailer, is gravity going to be enough pressure? I would assume it would be, but I do wonder how guys feed skid units that never leave the trailer or truck. Do you use an electric pump, or is a pressure washer actually capable of pulling a draft without any problems?


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## CApainter

The transfer tanks I've used have had a small gas pwoered honda engine.


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## PressurePros

The pressure washer will pull from the tank. Put a threaded bung through the bottom side of the tank so the weight of the water will apply some pressure. Put a filter inline. Attach an MPT or FPT/barb and attach hose line. Use 3/4" hose to run to your machine. For supply, cut a similar hole in the top and use a Hudson float valve to shut off the water when the tank is full (like a toilet tank)

Direct drive machines are the weakest when it comes to pulling water followed by a gear drive and the best being a belt drive. If you have any questions, shoot me a pm and I'll give you my cell #


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## mpminter

Here is a picture of the tank I'll be using. It has a 2" ball valve, and I have a garden hose adapter that threads directly to the valve outlet. Would this work? My machine is a belt drive 4gpm, 3000psi unit


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## PressurePros

Oh yeah it will work but in the context of using a shotgun to kill flies. For a 4 gpm machine a 35 gallon tank would be plenty unless you have to do commercial jobs where there is no water supply. Is your trailer single or double axle?


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## mpminter

The trailer is a double axle. I do have jobs from time to time where I have to bring my own water, and I was also hoping to get into roof washing. I know there are chlorine pumps for that, but I saw a video once (I think it was on this forum) of someone using a 5 gpm electric pump and a tank full of water, 12.5%, an apple scent, and some other chemical to help it cling. Whoever it was was just using the electric pump and a hose to apply this really strong bleach solution and it seemed to work really well. That's the system I want to set up eventually


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## Roof Cleaning

good stuff..

I ran a AR 5gpm direct drive pulling from a 170 gallon tank for years. Even used the tank to hold bleach and put the garden hose to the pw'r towards the end. I would not put the hose to my belt drive but in a pinch with the 4gp direct I think you could get away with it.

Throw a fat boy on there and a battery and you are set my brotha!
Nice light set up that will be easy to pull around and fast for cleaning!

peace 
Thomas


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## Sirocco Jerry

*Pump Reliability: Tank feed-lines*

Here's some service-department experience for tank-feeders..

Tank-feed lines:
for Belt drive systems...
4 to 5 gpm... use 1" hose no more than 5 feet from tank,
1 1/4" hose for 6 to 10 feet​5.5 to 7 gpm.. add a T, and run a 2nd line 3/4" to the other side of the head..
that's right, DUAL-feed the pump.. .. the seals will last MUCH longer !
8 to 10gpm.. use dual feed lines with separate 1" filters, to EACH SIDE of the pump head.
..and yes, you can draw water up-hill a foot or so, without much life-loss, 
as long as you NEVER run the water-level low enough to suck air-bubbles..
Think of a bathtub draining, and how deep that vortex can suck air.

Now for DIRECT drive:
same like above, but you will only get half the lifespan on the water seals.
So.. step-up a size on the hose,
and NEVER try to suck the water up-hill,
or all your effort in big feed-lines will be wasted..
mount those pump systems down *on* the floor of the system,
'cause the direct drive pumps SO easily cavitate.

Like ? ..hit that like button.

I aim RELENTLESSLY for reliability, and I share technical info for free.

..and keep your Wash Water out of the storm drain. Eh?
Leave room on that trailer for a Wash Water Control Vacuum.


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## mpminter

I don't think a wash water control vac is anywhere in the cards for the near future. I have never seen or heard of anyone reclaiming water from a standard wash job. That being said, it looks like I'm going to get rained out today so I think I'll work on getting my plumbing squared away for this tank setup. Hopefully I'll do my first tank fed wash job this weekend sometime:thumbup: I have one wall to paint on a commercial building and there's no water on the outside of the building.


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## mpminter

Just an update, I tried to use my tank the other day and it didn't work out so well. I put together a supply line with 1" ID hose, had the tank filled with 125 gallons of water sitting in the back of my van, and had my small 2.2 gpm honda direct drive on the ground just outside the van. My "flow test" told me I could fill a 5 gallon bucket in 37 seconds, but my inlet pressure was WAY low. that little machine just couldn't keep the pressure up. I've had this pressure washer for almost 6 years and have never done any sort of maintenance on it, not even anti-freeze in the winter. I think I'm just going to replace the pump and maybe try again. I'll be trying the 4 gpm on monday, so I'll post my results then.


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## Sirocco Jerry

the 2 to 3gpm pressure-washers with "wobble-plate" design are make to be pressure-fed..
Some people get lucky with theirs for a few hours or days, but
.. you will NEVER achieve reliable results with a tank-fed "throw-away version pump".
plastic check-valves, and tiny thoroughfares are a manufacturer-installed "bug"
Those manufactures think you are stupid-enough to keep buying the same bad-deal.

Only the *Crank-shaft version pumps* ARE made to be gravity-fed,

Guys,
you are better-off getting a good-used industrial version pump that still makes pressure,
upgrade the plumbing for reliability,
and enjoy *many times* the reliability, 
and yes, you can tank-feed them.

e-mail any questions
I'm glad to help.
Jerry


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## mpminter

Used my 4gpm belt drive machine fed off a tank today and it worked perfectly! I guess my little pump just needs some inlet pressure.


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## Sirocco Jerry

*Tank-Feeding a Cheap pressure washer*

You can "boost" pressure into the face of a cheap pump with a 12vDC centrif.pump,
and therefore tank feed it,
but the moral to the story, is..
Get a better quality Pressure Washer, 
..and have a more "sustainable relationship" with your tools.
NOTHING should be between your crew and "workspeed" every day.
NEVER settle for cheap, when reliability is what you need EVERY day,
and for "Long-Term-Low-Cost".
Here are examples of tank feed plumbing, on common systems.
..just in case it can help.


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## Sirocco Jerry

*Big Job Needs more water supply.. buffer tanks help*

this is a great thread for Tank Feed answers


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