# Japan Drier



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

We are trying to finish up an extetior.
Have old cans of Cabot solid oil stain. We are getting a bunch on rain tomorrow so wanted to quicken the dry time. Spoke with a painter I know suggested Japan Drier. I have never used it, but tried it.
Stupidly, I did not read the can, which states that temp should be 50 degrees or above. We are at 40. I am so use to 40 degrees being the cut off. So, we stoped applying for the day.
My question is can Japan Drier be used for Solid oil stain. I know this is a questioned I should have asked before adding. 
I am painting over the existing solid stain,so penetration into the wood is not an issue.

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

you may be at 40 now but what temperature tonight, freezing? When a manufacturer states 50 degrees they mean holding 50 degrees. How old is the stain? Has it been opened before? It may not dry before the rain hits.


that said Japan drier does help solid oil coatings especially in cool humid environments.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

japan drier and xylene or naptha will speed it right up.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> you may be at 40 now but what temperature tonight, freezing? When a manufacturer states 50 degrees they mean holding 50 degrees. How old is the stain? Has it been opened before? It may not dry before the rain hits.
> 
> 
> that said Japan drier does help solid oil coatings especially in cool humid environments.


Supposed to go no lower than 41. If it was going down to freezing I would have never started. It is dry to the touch now. So, seems like I will be ok. Rain does not begin until 7am. Last time I will assume 40 degrees is the standard for all coatings.

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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

50 for most alkyds believe it or not.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

PACman said:


> 50 for most alkyds believe it or not.


I wonder why this is. The Cali Ultra that I am using on the trim is 35. It seems that since the oils can deal with the cold better while they are in the can that they would not need a higher temp to cure.

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Just an update. We did use the Japan Drier with the oil sold stain. It looked like shat. We used the max recommended 2oz. It made the stain very watery and it took on a sheen. Luckily we had enough left over without the drier to finish the job. Since solid oil stain almost no longer exists, we will not have to do this again.


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## Fman (Aug 20, 2011)

Japan Drier bailed me out once when I had to do a rat-trail in a BIGLY commercial freezer for a food storage warehouse. My diminutive little boss had sandbagged me claiming he would order proper cold weather paint for me but, of course he didn't. Little batsard thought he could thwart me. Nope. Japan Drier was well well a shot. It worked great! The next time it reared it's ugly head though, me and another guy had 40 door frames to do. My personal best on frames is 24 in an 8 hour day and those were plus-sized hospital frames with view-lites. So, big. I figured me and Sammy could do 20 a piece easily. But, our speed obsessed boss insisted we use Japan Drier so they'd be dry today and could miracle a 2nd coat on in 8 hours... Sammy put the stuff in. I wouldn't have bothered as those frames were not going to get a 2nd coat that day no matter what. Perhaps not enough was added because the first frames were still tacky by beer:thirty when all 40 were first coated. In proper does it's maybe worth a shot in a storm but, otherwise, I have no idea why they make the stuff.


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