# Drywall Texture Replication



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

I want to start this thread to discuss texture patterns and how to best replicate them. I do a lot of remodel painting and texture comes into play with wallpaper stripping when going to paint grade. There are a BUNCH of textures out there and replication is willy nilly guess work at times. Ideally, I like to keep the homes consistent in texture for flow. 

Hoping to be a thread of practical pictures and advice feedback as situations arise. Please post your texture pics and lets try to figure em out!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

sometimes its nearly impossible to match.

Which types do you have most difficulty with?


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## Lance Stewart (Jun 17, 2008)

Matching texture has been the bane of my existence at times. My garage ceiling exhibits the scars of my attempts ...and failures. The problem for me revolves around the inconsistencies inherent from room to room (or wall to wall within the same room). When the application methods or application tools seem to be consistent and result in variation how can we be expected to produce consistent results when the original applicator could not?

I'll try and gather some pictures as time trudges on and contribute to this thread when I can.

Great idea Para. If you ever find yourself needing some help matching stuff up I will be more than happy to 'attempt' to help.

*Disclaimer: I am a painter first and foremost. I am not a drywall expert nor a texture expert by any stretch of the imagination (I hate taping and floating with a passion).


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## HIS SERVICE (Aug 6, 2010)

I'm always upfront with the homeowner/property manager that is hard to match someone else texture. Only years of experience can lead to any close replication.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Thanks, hoping to use this as a long term reference thread. No problems currently, I know there are some good drywall guys out there like Captain Sheetrock that could lend their expertise to us painters as the time arises. Thanks in advance to all.


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## hoz (Sep 27, 2010)

Like he said, textures vary from the material used to the applicator. I've done spray acoustics, stomp, knock down or Spanish, and splatter spray. I'd consider splatter spray the hardest to "match".


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I did a ceiling not to long ago where the additions drywall never got primed. Popcorn adhesion failed everywhere on half the ceiling except tape joints. 

I can tell where the spots are that didn't blend but the HO was very happy she didn't think I could make it look that good.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

One of my favorite successes was a "turkey foot" , needed to patch in a repair on a 40's plaster finish. went to a plasterers forum and they said pit a tire tube over a block with a handle , use loose mud and pull. worked like a charm.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

this is such a wide and broad topic. there are MANY different techniques and all are varied. I am damn good at matching/patching.. and sometimes I still get thrown for a loop. YEARS of experience is all I can tell you that will help you out. I got my knowledge patching ceilings and walls in town homes (rentals) for YEARS.. seeing what worked and what didn't.. it is like anything. Experience is king. Getting hands dirty is the only way. Do you have a specific question? What are the tools you working with? Spray can texture? Get rid of it. Invest in a real system (graco texture machine or the like) then come back. Do lots of testing.. be the texture young grasshopper..




























these are deceiving... as it looks as though there was still a small crack.. I assure you there was NONE.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Good looking repairs and matches you guys. Gotta agree with Nate that solid experience is what the determining factor is. I did so much of this in the insurance resto end of the business that it all seemed just seemed like second hand abilities. Only when I read this thread did it bring to mind all the jobs I struggled on whilst learning. Splatter spray and knock-downs are tough, though if you keep a scrap piece of drywall to adjust your spray on it goes pretty good.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Nate did you tape that crack?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

*roll texture*

So spray, knock down stomps, i have a fairly good grasp on, but rolled textures are new to me (I dont know and have yet to try), Can anyone give me advice on best methods to achieve? Here in the South, rolled texture is fairly common and I probably ought to figure it out for keeping consistency if/ when the situation arises. 

Thanks
Thomas


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

This is a good thread, great way to show the regional differences. It will help if you guys all put a name to the finish, as scattered as we all are, there may be some differences.
Thanks


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> Nate did you tape that crack?


yep, I always embed tape. That is dig the old out if it is a joint, scrape, secure, retape, and texture.. Only way to do it.


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## The_Texture_Guy (Dec 30, 2010)

Just my two cents

As a professional texture guy, painters should stick to paint, its what they do, and texture guys should do the texture

Yes i have worked wonders with the cans of texture but you have to know where and when to use them, and what kind. 

I have never seen a very good orange peel patch job with hoppers. It is very hard to match unless you use a grayco machine. even then those are temperamental.

Believe it or not, I have been called to spray a 5x5 bathroom specifically told to use my spray rig. That is really the only thing that will do a decent job. you can get all types of textures with it. I own 4 types of machines to apply texture; a portable hand held hopper. The do okay but are limited in tip sizes. A small pump gun that does wonders on small orange peel stuff. A grayco sprayer (the second largest that they make) does a very decent job of orange peel. Knockdown is ok but not great. 
And finally my 300 gallon spray rig.

I have never met a handy man that can get stuff perfect because they arent from a texture background. 

Texture is an art form. Its all about pressure, thickness of mud, tip size, and know how.

If you want perfection on walls, hire a drywall punchout specifically, not a handyman or painter.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Well I do Painting and Patching all the Time . orange peel can be a pain 
specially on ceilings . Great results with cans , or ''small washing brushes'' i just 
flick it to match . Sponging is also the Key and priming ,,, Priming before and 
after texturing .. Just bought the graco rtx 900 i hate it , but the hopper is great . Also running your patches alittle bit bigger helps too . I guess it depends on the patch .. oh 5 min mudd and a hair dryer works great too. :thumbsup: oh and another thing . mudd thickness is also really important .


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## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

The_Texture_Guy said:


> Just my two cents
> 
> As a professional texture guy, painters should stick to paint, its what they do, and texture guys should do the texture


This kinda rubbed me wrong, Lots of painters & tapers can texture, and produce a professional job. I've got over 25 years of experience.
Sorry just wanted to refund your 2 cents

Cheers


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## The_Texture_Guy (Dec 30, 2010)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Well I do Painting and Patching all the Time . orange peel can be a pain
> specially on ceilings . Great results with cans , or ''small washing brushes'' i just
> flick it to match . Sponging is also the Key and priming ,,, Priming before and
> after texturing .. Just bought the graco rtx 900 i hate it , but the hopper is great . Also running your patches alittle bit bigger helps too . I guess it depends on the patch .. oh 5 min mudd and a hair dryer works great too. :thumbsup: oh and another thing . mudd thickness is also really important .


Orange peel is easy, thats why we use our spray rig to do it. Its the only way to get a perfect match. the best grayco to use are the 1st and 2nd higest expensive machines, i have the 2nd and only use that on places my texture rig can't get to. You can work wonders with that orangepeel can for sure. alot of times i use the knockdown can to spray the orange peel and it comes out better. Ive found to that feathering out a patch is the best thing. I have never primed anything before texture and i don't see the point in that yet because when we spray texture it is typically on a drywall surface and spraying on paint just takes do long for things to dry.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

The_Texture_Guy said:


> Just my two cents
> 
> As a professional texture guy, painters should stick to paint, its what they do, and texture guys should do the texture
> 
> ...


k, I'll just turn down my normal wallpaper removal, skim, and texture jobs of kitchen/bathrooms. I'll pass this easy work on to somebody else.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Orange peel is easy, thats why we use our spray rig to do it. Its the only way to get a perfect match. the best grayco to use are the 1st and 2nd higest expensive machines, i have the 2nd and only use that on places my texture rig can't get to. You can work wonders with that orangepeel can for sure. alot of times i use the knockdown can to spray the orange peel and it comes out better. Ive found to that feathering out a patch is the best thing. I have never primed anything before texture and i don't see the point in that yet because when we spray texture it is typically on a drywall surface and spraying on paint just takes do long for things to dry.

ok the reason for priming , specially if it's a patch , ok not in every case do i prime , and large ceiling patch or wall patch . Where matching is critical 'paint help's equalize the the floated areas to the painted areas . Best with a flat paint also , cuz some primers can seal to much .. again cuzing it to flash . I spray use a Marshalltown rig: small compressor, mason gun. I have used everything to create texture . I make a living almost doing patches Alone , drying also 5 min mudd and a hair dryer works wonders period . yeah i wish i could afford a mark 4 or 5 but for patches over kill .


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

I have a Mark IV,, it is designed for spraying mud for a level5. It does that very well. It is not, however worth a dime for "textures". You have to buy an kit and it does less than you would hope for, for that kinda money.

For knock-down and orange-peel, and popcorn, I still prefer the old hopper and air compressor. If its something I have doubts about, I will get some scrap pieces of drywall and figure out how thin the mud needs to be and/or the pressure and distance etc.

I never prime before spraying unless there is an issue with stains or nicotine.

As for rolled textures,,, some guys customize their rollers to "make" theirs unique. Try it some time on some scrap. Take a roller cover, and put some mud or paint on it in a few areas, like little lines,,, let it dry and then roll some mud on with it. That makes it unique and impossible to match. The old timers called it job security.

Then you get into the stomps and brushes,,,,, but I'll quit boring you guys now,,,lol


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> As for rolled textures,,, some guys customize their rollers to "make" theirs unique. Try it some time on some scrap. Take a roller cover, and put some mud or paint on it in a few areas, like little lines,,, let it dry and then roll some mud on with it. That makes it unique and impossible to match. *The old timers called it job security.*
> 
> Then you get into the stomps and brushes,,,,, but I'll quit boring you guys now,,,lol



Not boring, enlightening. This info is what I was hoping to hear. Thanks Captain!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

One of the ones I really enjoyed doing was the "wagon wheel" The light fixture in the dining or living room, we would attach a sting to the center of it, then tie a wisk broom to the string. After smearing mud with a trowel, we would spin the wisk around it, making a circle, then take a 2" paint brush and draw the "spokes" back to the light box. After that was done, we would "smash" a "roset?" (a decrotive center piece that they use now-a-days to fix an overcut box) on the box. Then tape the outer edge of the wagon wheel(after it dried) and stomp the cieling, then take a 4" paint brush and go around the edge of the ceiling, making the apperance of crown. I think it looked cool, I guess most would think it takky today. 

There was alot of hand finished ceilings back then, and we called our company, "Sheetrock by Design"

I know,,, I'm rambling !!!!!!!!


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## Gotdibz (Sep 30, 2010)

COol info Guys, Love reading all the knowledge everyone posts. Thanks


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> One of the ones I really enjoyed doing was the "wagon wheel" The light fixture in the dining or living room, we would attach a sting to the center of it, then tie a wisk broom to the string. After smearing mud with a trowel, we would spin the wisk around it, making a circle, then take a 2" paint brush and draw the "spokes" back to the light box. After that was done, we would "smash" a "roset?" (a decrotive center piece that they use now-a-days to fix an overcut box) on the box. Then tape the outer edge of the wagon wheel(after it dried) and stomp the cieling, then take a 4" paint brush and go around the edge of the ceiling, making the apperance of crown. I think it looked cool, I guess most would think it takky today.
> 
> There was alot of hand finished ceilings back then, and we called our company, "Sheetrock by Design"
> 
> I know,,, I'm rambling !!!!!!!!


Ugly


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The ones I think are the hardest to repair are the one's an idiot did.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Ugly


 Go to your room, you young whip-er-snapper !!!!!!


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Here are 2 common ceiling stomp brushes and what they can look like...


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

There is massive variations depending on how thick the mud is, how liberally it was applied and the set up time before knockdown. The brush on the left is a crows foot, the brush on the right is a u-shaped stomp. Not the best images of final product, just a picture I snapped of the house I'm in to give a reference.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

The U-shaped brush was used in the top picture, Para?

either way..I don't think I've ever seen that texture before.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Yes, that is a horrible example, typically this texture has large voids and is not supposed to be overstomped. It gets used more than you know in the south, but can look vastly different depending on applicator / application.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

A larger area using a u shaped stomp


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## SuperiorPainter (Feb 12, 2011)

I haven't had the same experience as you are referring too. Hoppers work fine as long as you play with the air pressure, mixture, tip size and dial on the gun itself. Once you get it close, you still have to feather the texture to get a uniformed Finish. We have used spray cans as well and got good results, but you have to play with th daily and distance with those things.


The_Texture_Guy said:


> Just my two cents
> 
> As a professional texture guy, painters should stick to paint, its what they do, and texture guys should do the texture
> 
> ...


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## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

I take offence to that, in my area and most here in western Canada, painters and tapers do most of the texturing. I do think you can make your points with out calling others down.







. This ceiling was done by myself (Painter) and my buddy (Taper). 




The_Texture_Guy said:


> Just my two cents
> 
> As a professional texture guy, painters should stick to paint, its what they do, and texture guys should do the texture
> 
> ...






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

CobraCDN said:


> I take offence to that, in my area and most here in western Canada, painters and tapers do most of the texturing. I do think you can make your points with out calling others down.


I wouldn't get too upset about it, that post is 5 yrs old. I don't think he was actually intending to call anyone down.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Wildbill7145 said:


> I wouldn't get too upset about it, that post is 5 yrs old. I don't think he was actually intending to call anyone down.


When I saw this thread and the amount of comments I was wondering how I could've missed this, or someone really said something to piss a bunch of people off. Maybe the Idaho painter is trying a new market :jester


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

journeymanPainter said:


> When I saw this thread and the amount of comments I was wondering how I could've missed this, or someone really said something to piss a bunch of people off. Maybe the Idaho painter is trying a new market :jester


HAHA! Be sure to "like" all his pages and videos! can not stress that enough! 

I have used the cans of texture enough to say they will rarely give satisfactory results and often it is easier in the end to bust out the hopper and I have seen pros come in to do patches that looked like crap as well.

Anyway lots of knockdown in this region and I found this tool to do pretty well most of the time for small patches and there are a few other brands on the market. 

http://www.amazon.com/PPT1-Pirate-Patch-Tool/dp/B00A9ZUY5W


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Krittterkare said:


> HAHA! Be sure to "like" all his pages and videos! can not stress that enough!
> 
> I have used the cans of texture enough to say they will rarely give satisfactory results and often it is easier in the end to bust out the hopper and I have seen pros come in to do patches that looked like crap as well.
> 
> ...


That looks really cool. Does it actually work well?

Most of what we have here is stippled ceilings, and smooth walls


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

It works very well but has a square border so is only good for smaller patches but could be modified by cutting the border off, otherwise it is doing a section and let dry. Another problem is with texture that is larger or smaller but another company has 3 sizes, though it may not match every pattern it usually is convincing enough.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Interesting patch tool, have a link for one that's in stock? Or another brand name?


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Krittterkare said:


> It works very well but has a square border so is only good for smaller patches but could be modified by cutting the border off, otherwise it is doing a section and let dry. Another problem is with texture that is larger or smaller but another company has 3 sizes, though it may not match every pattern it usually is convincing enough.


They work very well especially if you sand down the high areas of the patch that the templates leave.Bought mine several years ago when they first came out.A natural sea sponge dap to the patched surface and allowed to set and then knocked down works very well also.


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

Hines Painting said:


> Interesting patch tool, have a link for one that's in stock? Or another brand name?


I just had several 4'' holes textured from the drywall guy that the electricians made, I showed him the tool encouraging him to use it and he thought it was interesting then proceeded to spray 2'x2' texture areas and I wish I had just done it myself with the tool.
He knows what he is doing but on flat walls and spatter going well beyond 2' forces me to try and wash the overspary and roll out a much bigger area then the 5" I would have done which is noticeable to me and the paint may not touch up well despite the 2 rolled finish coats.

I got mine at my local store but in looking for other sizes I found these and after years of spray cans for small areas mine was a good investment.

http://www.amazon.com/Fine-Texture-..._sbs_hg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=136KYXHE38T98CBRPA58


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Krittterkare said:


> I just had several 4'' holes textured from the drywall guy that the electricians made, I showed him the tool encouraging him to use it and he thought it was interesting then proceeded to spray 2'x2' texture areas and I wish I had just done it myself with the tool.
> He knows what he is doing but on flat walls and spatter going well beyond 2' forces me to try and wash the overspary and roll out a much bigger area then the 5" I would have done which is noticeable to me and the paint may not touch up well despite the 2 rolled finish coats.
> 
> I got mine at my local store but in looking for other sizes I found these and after years of spray cans for small areas mine was a good investment.
> ...


Ya, I'm decent with a spray can. But these would probably be easier to train people with.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Do they work decent? Cause this is one of the worst videos I've ever seen. And the patch at the end looks awful lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jorfhvJqxOc


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Found the website that has the 3 pack cheaper than amazon.

http://www.drywallrepairtool.com/drywall-repair-buy-now.html

And another one that looks interesting. 

http://www.ahandyhomeowner.com/


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