# A little "Meteor Shower" Cabinet Coat repaint



## ridesarize

Hey guys. Just sharing a recent cabinet job from December. I finished it right before Christmas. I was checking out cabinet paint threads on here, and was interested in scuff-x or other paints. I ended up going with Insl-x Cabinet Coat Satin which I've been happy with in the past. I did not feel like using Advance on this set of cabinets.

The existing coating was clear lacquer. All solid wood doors, but had vinyl edge banding on the plywood boxes.

I did a quick degrease where needed. Pre-sanded most areas with the festool DTS400 (boxes), RTS400 (doors) and hand sanded 220 sanding paper on the rest.. Prepped with Elmers carpenter filler. Cleaned, caulked. 

Primed the boxes with Stix for the onsite work and tinted shellac for the doors/drawers in my garage. All done with my Graco 695 Ultra Max airless lowboy, and Titan sc6+ 410 FF tip. 

I made a plastic wall separating her kitchen from the living room and hallway. I did not use any zipwall poles but had it taped up to the ceiling well and it stayed for a week.

When it comes to the shop work I had to clear room in my garage and utilized a couple Perry scaffolds for drying racks and spraying racks and a four-foot-tall one for a work table. I came up with a new movable spray booth by plastic-ing the inside of the Perry scaffold and using a 2x3 crossmember to hang the cabinet door on as I sprayed it.

The deep base Cabinet Coat Satin turned out slick. I really like the color the client picked and it matches her decor really well with her Navy blue pottery and accents in the home.

Client wanted a color similar to Hale Navy,... and Meteor Shower CC-5443 was right on the front of the cabinet coat brochure. The Satin turned out to be a nice subtle sheen, but silky smooth.


Client was overly happy with the results. We high fived after I assembled everything and adjusted doors.


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## PremierPaintingMa

Nice work!


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## Tprice2193

Yes sir that is a real nice job! The CC has a nice sheen in that deep base. That dark of a color would have scared me. Can't hide imperfections. Thanks for the lighting on the pics. It reveals just how smooth that finish is. I do have a few questions:. 1) Did you spray all coats Vertical? 2) what type of ventilation did you use in your booth and in house 3) do you treat backsIde of doors the same as frontside? Thanks for sharing your work, it is really high quality.


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## Delta Painting

Look's great, Thanks for sharing!


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## ridesarize

Tprice2193 said:


> Yes sir that is a real nice job! The CC has a nice sheen in that deep base. That dark of a color would have scared me. Can't hide imperfections. Thanks for the lighting on the pics. It reveals just how smooth that finish is. I do have a few questions:. 1) Did you spray all coats Vertical? 2) what type of ventilation did you use in your booth and in house 3) do you treat backsIde of doors the same as frontside? Thanks for sharing your work, it is really high quality.



Thank you very much. I did spray all coats with the doors hanging. I didn't get any runs except on the cabinet bases I got too brave on the second coat and had some sags that I had to wet sand out and respray for free. 



Other than that, it went perfect on prime coats, 1st coat and all the door coating.
I prepped everything inside and out, as well as can be with Elmers filler, which fixed them up really nice considering the gouges that were on the inside of 4 doors. I just didn't use red glazing putty though on the insides.


No ventilation needed in the kitchen on-site, as each coat was only about 5 minutes or less to spray. The kitchen spray booth was sealed up nicely so no dust or smell escaped.


For the shellac work in my garage, I set up a box fan going out my garage door with a filter on it.


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## Mr Smith

Looks good!

I haven't used CC in about 2-3 years since I had some runs. I should give it another try because I might have sprayed the paint too heavy on a bathroom vanity. Most of the runs were on the lower part like the kick plate.

I recently sprayed some Advance vertically with no runs. The trick is to move 2x faster than other paints.

Here is a PVC spray stand I built for spraying on hangers. It can be broken down easily and is therefore portable, and stores in a compact snowboard case.

I usually build a spray booth for this setup with Zipwalls. I suppose I could build an attachment of PVC and add a "TENT" to the back end using plastic taped to the additional PVC frame... That would catch all the overspray. I could even add a fan (or air mover) vent inside the "TENT" and attach the fan to one of those harbor freight exhaust hoses to vent outside.


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## Mr Smith

I notice you are using wire fastened to the hinge holes. How did you do that? I normally use 1' cup hooks. I know Rockler sells fasteners that hook into the mortice type of hinge holes.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-sure-hooks-360


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## finishesbykevyn

Mr Smith said:


> Looks good!
> 
> I haven't used CC in about 2-3 years since I had some runs. I should give it another try because I might have sprayed the paint too heavy on a bathroom vanity. Most of the runs were on the lower part like the kick plate.
> 
> I recently sprayed some Advance vertically with no runs. The trick is to move 2x faster than other paints.
> 
> Here is a PVC spray stand I built for spraying on hangers. It can be broken down easily and is therefore portable, and stores in a compact snowboard case.
> 
> I usually build a spray booth for this setup with Zipwalls. I suppose I could build an attachment of PVC and add a "TENT" to the back end using plastic taped to the additional PVC frame... That would catch all the overspray. I could even add a fan (or air mover) vent inside the "TENT" and attach the fan to one of those harbor freight exhaust hoses to vent outside.


That's actually pretty cool..


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## finishesbykevyn

My current spray booth. Just an old sawhorse, with 2 movable blocks with padded screws on top for laying doors on..


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## ridesarize

Mr Smith said:


> I notice you are using wire fastened to the hinge holes. How did you do that? I normally use 1' cup hooks. I know Rockler sells fasteners that hook into the mortice type of hinge holes.
> https://www.rockler.com/rockler-sure-hooks-360



I pre-drill 3/32" holes where the hinge will cover it up and put 2 or 2.5" drywall screws there and attach wire a certain way. On one side I only crimp the wire around the screw instead of wrapping it around so I can detach the wire in a split second and hang it up on my 2x3 or 2x4 board. 

When i use the wire and a 2x3 or 2x4 the doors don't twist or swing much while they dry so they don't hit each other.


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## finishesbykevyn

Looks fantastic. I still can't get with all the taping required to spray the minimal amount of surface left. I know it's a great look after, but when none of the walls or ceilings or anything else is being painted, it just seems over kill when I can get a fantastic result with a microfiber roller and not have to tape anything off..
And the client can still use their kitchen. All situational of course. 

I always spray the doors. But most of the time there's hardly any surface left showing except end panels. Sometimes I'll also remove end panels and spray at the shop.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


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## finishesbykevyn

Double post.


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## Packard

Mr Smith said:


> [...] That would catch all the overspray. I could even add a fan (or air mover) vent inside the "TENT" and attach the fan to one of those harbor freight exhaust hoses to vent outside.


Or take a cue from clean room technology. Use a fan with a filter to blow air into the spray booth and allow an exhaust hose to evacuate the air.

That way you have a constant flow of outside filtered air entering the spray area (eliminating dust and keeping the room "inflated"). 

The worst thing you can do is to set up an exhaust fan. It will suck dust into the spray booth. 

This is a standard method we used to use in old time darkrooms (photography) where dust was an even bigger enemy than it is for painting. 

For my old darkroom, I took a box fan and attached a 20" square furnce filter to blow into the darkroom. The whole setup cost less than $40.00 (adjusted for today's cost).


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## Brushman4

Here's a real meteor shower, baby! https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=25&v=Q7OnRTmWiPM


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## Wutari

Looks really good. How many hours did this project take you? Also I'm curious how you bid cabinet repaints? I bid it by the number of item (doors & drawers).


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## ridesarize

Wutari said:


> Looks really good. How many hours did this project take you? Also I'm curious how you bid cabinet repaints? I bid it by the number of item (doors & drawers).



Thank you. It took 70ish hours considering everything (disassemble, redrill new hardware holes, protecting them (doors/drawers) for transport to/from site. 



I bid based on time and effort involved. I'm not a company owner though, just employee.


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## Rbriggs82

ridesarize said:


> Thank you. It took 70ish hours considering everything (disassemble, redrill new hardware holes, protecting them (doors/drawers) for transport to/from site.
> 
> 
> 
> I bid based on time and effort involved. I'm not a company owner though, just employee.


Don't refer to yourself as just anything in life. You did a better job on those cabinets then I seen more "business owners" do. You're not JUST an employee, you're a professional painter there's no reason to lessen or demean yourself. 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


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## Wutari

ridesarize said:


> Thank you. It took 70ish hours considering everything (disassemble, redrill new hardware holes, protecting them (doors/drawers) for transport to/from site.
> 
> 
> 
> I bid based on time and effort involved. I'm not a company owner though, just employee.


I see. Well its work to be proud of, thanks for the info. 

This is kinda different topic but do you refinish oak or hickory cabinets very often?


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## finishesbykevyn

ridesarize said:


> Thank you. It took 70ish hours considering everything (disassemble, redrill new hardware holes, protecting them (doors/drawers) for transport to/from site.
> 
> 
> 
> I bid based on time and effort involved. I'm not a company owner though, just employee.


Now that this thread hads been re-activated, any idea how those cabs are holding up? Being such a dark colour and all..I sprayed a door in my shop with a dark blue CC a couple years back and it still Marrs like crazy.


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## CApainter

Rbriggs82 said:


> Don't refer to yourself as just anything in life. You did a better job on those cabinets then I seen more "business owners" do. You're not JUST an employee, you're a professional painter there's no reason to lessen or demean yourself.
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


I have a bad habit of using "Just" as a reference point rather than use it to demean, or self deprecate, and my wife jumps on my case every time when I do.

But given the increasingly competitive nature of aesthetics and status in our society, "Just" helps eliminate the expectations of "expertise" and allows the position of "underdog" to support a level of admiration that would likely be unafforded otherwise.

The draw back however, is when you lower your bar, you're really not challenging yourself. Exposure to criticism has the same affect as a tree has to wind. The more resistance the stronger it gets.

Just a thought. lol!


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## ridesarize

finishesbykevyn said:


> Now that this thread hads been re-activated, any idea how those cabs are holding up? Being such a dark colour and all..I sprayed a door in my shop with a dark blue CC a couple years back and it still Marrs like crazy.



I hear that they are holding up well and the client is still happy. I did a larger set of cabinets following these ones (with exact same products), and also they are holding up well.


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