# Corner beads, blow-out patches, Durabond 90



## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

A couple of quick questions on wall/ceiling repairs. 

First, I've never used the corner beads with paper on both sides. I've only used the old fashioned "nail/screw em down and try not to let em twist" kind.

I'm thinking Durabond 90 is the right product for these papered corner beads because of its strength. Would the Durabond be better than regular green lid joint compound? Just mud em and stick em?

And for blow-out patches where you leave the drywall paper about an inch larger on the outside perimeter and use it as tape - I have used Both joint compound and Durabond 90 with good results. But I will be pushing the limit with a few big patches and was wondering if the Durabond would be a better choice.

Lastly, is the Durabond and Easy Sand interchangeable. would either one work just as well for these corner beads and patches. I already have the Durabond because that is what I'm used to, but it's always an extra trip to pick up a bag.

Thanks!


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I really wouldn't recommend quickset for paperbead application. Its not gonna be any stronger. Normally I just use green lid USG apply bead and second coat in the same step. First reason in paper bead can be finished using ap in two coats. Then durabond sands a lot harder and can rough up the paper. Lastly using AP is a lot easier to apply and you wont have to rush. If I need to make sure its dry next day I simply add one scoopful (6" Knife) of ez sand 45 to 1 pail of AP mudd add water and mix. Heres some tips for paper bead.

Mix AP mudd thin. Get it loose.
If you don't have a hopper. A corner roller works well. Last resort coat the sheet rock not the bead with mudd. Keep it even. 4" knife works well.
Having a stapler handy helps with stands ups. Hit the bottom where the base board trim will hid it .
If your doing horizontals run a chalk line to keep you level. At least make a few benchmarks.
When splicing pieces together use factory to factory cuts or ends .


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I like the easy sand. Cause it sands easy. Lol

The fast setting mud isn't for strength. It's so you can get the job done faster. Like today not tomoro, painted done. 
And they all dry slower I've found than their number. 20 min mud is about the highest increment worth using. And the five minute is best for smaller repaints like blowouts. And mixing with hot water and over mixing too makes them all set up faster. And a fan is a must.











This thing will solve ur metal corner bead twisting problems. If u so chose. Cheap, in with the drywall tools.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

This is the best/fastest way I've found to do blow out patches. 

Fist measure the hole and customer a square of rock slightly bigger. Put the piece you cut over the hole and trace around it the cut following the line you made. 

Next take mesh tape and cross hatch the entire back of the rock leaving a few inches of tape sticking out all around. Basically when you look at the patch you made it should have about an inch of mesh tape overhanging all the way around. Then mud the entire back. 

Next stick the patch in the hole and the extra mesh tape will be sticking out towards you. Take the mesh tape again and go around the perimeter of the patch pinning down the extra mesh to the wall. Then mud it all. 

I saw a video of someone doing it that way on Facebook gave it a try and never fiddled with making little flaps on patches again. It's insanely strong and super fast to do. 



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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

Oden said:


> I like the easy sand. Cause it sands easy. Lol
> 
> The fast setting mud isn't for strength. It's so you can get the job done faster. Like today not tomoro, painted done.
> And they all dry slower I've found than their number. 20 min mud is about the highest increment worth using. And the five minute is best for smaller repaints like blowouts. And mixing with hot water and over mixing too makes them all set up faster. And a fan is a must.
> ...


 OMG. A crimper. I have about 5 in my garage covered in dust. Pretty sure if I brought it to a jobsite no one under 35 would know what it is. I occasionally will use a few sticks of metal if HO provides them but I attach with an auto stapler. Once I switched over to Trim tex mudd sett beads with hopper, setters and flushers metal bead went the way of the Samurai. Simply the strongest bonding bead when used with muddmax additive.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

For the paper backing, you need to staple them on. Staple on the paper.  18 guage crown will work just fine. Then mud them up to the line on the side.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

You guys do weird stuff. East coast thing? And a blow out sounds like what we call a California patch.lol


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> This is the best/fastest way I've found to do blow out patches.
> 
> Fist measure the hole and customer a square of rock slightly bigger. Put the piece you cut over the hole and trace around it the cut following the line you made.
> 
> ...


You using one of those "talk and type apps" or did you forget this is a family-friendly forum. :jester:


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

lilpaintchic said:


> You guys do weird stuff. East coast thing? And a blow out sounds like what we call a California patch.lol


 Ya we call it that here in NY too. I know I have posted a bit in the past about using Fiba-Fuse (not mesh) and hot mud. Its the easiest, fastest, and strongest for blow outs and say a door or window opening that has been framed and re rocked. Its a very thin product and allows for less build up and doesn't require a lot of dry time in between coats. As for strength its pretty impressive. Basically the manufactures claim is that the board will break before the FF joint. The only draw back is that any gaps need to be prefilled first. That's where a paper coffey cup, paint stick and durabond 5 comes into play. Use these items to mix small batches as needed. The goal after setting FF tape would be to use all quick set mudd to block out or feather joints but applying it in thinner coats with no need to allow quick set to fully harden. Another words you can go over it after about 20 minutes for each step. TBH the fuse was intended for large jobs using bazooka, boxes and using ez sand 220 to set and second coat followed by a coat of AP mud to finish. With a two man crew using auto tools and FF you can complete 200 board house in 3 days.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Boco said:


> Having a stapler handy helps with stands ups. Hit the bottom where the base board trim will hid it .
> If your doing horizontals run a chalk line to keep you level. At least make a few benchmarks.
> When splicing pieces together use factory to factory cuts or ends .


Thanks. I will have a few horizontals and a splice or two. This info really helps.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> This is the best/fastest way I've found to do blow out patches.
> 
> Fist measure the hole and customer a square of rock slightly bigger. Put the piece you cut over the hole and trace around it the cut following the line you made.
> 
> ...


Wow.

I did a lot of blow out patches in my day and also thought I got creative with the mesh tape. But what you describe sounds like a slam dunk.. No more messing around screwing a small piece of wood behind the sheetrock. No more cutting little paper flaps in the sheetrock to make a patch. Ingenious.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

The mesh trick is pretty creative. My guys now have it easy. Fuse comes in rolls up to 36 inches in width. Using a Rockwell, roto zip or multi tool will eliminate the need to draw and cut out hole. Simply place sheetrock over patch and cut through both repair and new piece. Perfect fit every time with no measuring. If using Rockwell or roto-zip just make sure to set your depth to not damage any wires or pipes in the wall


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Briggs, thanks for sharing your technique for repairing blowout patches.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Lakesidex said:


> Wow.
> 
> I did a lot of blow out patches in my day and also thought I got creative with the mesh tape. But what you describe sounds like a slam dunk.. No more messing around screwing a small piece of wood behind the sheetrock. No more cutting little paper flaps in the sheetrock to make a patch. Ingenious.


I wish I could find the video it's easier to actually see it than read my description. The whole thing start to finish takes less than 10mins.

I was skeptical on how strong it would be. But then after it was done and dry he took the piece of rock he was demonstrating on leaned it against the wall, stuck his hand unto the middle of the patch and pushed until the drywall broke. When I saw it snap on an area that wasn't part of the patch I was sold and have been doing it that way since.

BTW I'm from the northeast PA and we always called them blowout patches.  

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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> You using one of those "talk and type apps" or did you forget this is a family-friendly forum. :jester:


Stupid autocorrect done got me again. 

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> A couple of quick questions on wall/ceiling repairs.
> 
> First, I've never used the corner beads with paper on both sides. I've only used the old fashioned "nail/screw em down and try not to let em twist" kind.
> 
> ...


I prefer the plastic corners. Apply with the spray glue and staple gun.
I also still prefer to install strapping for patches bigger than 1 sq.ft. and for ceiling repairs..
I've had good success with the sheet rock 90..


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Way to go Boco!:thumbsup:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> This is the best/fastest way I've found to do blow out patches.
> 
> Fist measure the hole and customer a square of rock slightly bigger. Put the piece you cut over the hole and trace around it the cut following the line you made.
> 
> ...


Why measure the customer?:blink:


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

mudbone said:


> Why measure the customer?:blink:


I like to measure the size of their wallet. :yes:


Rbriggs82 said:


> Stupid autocorrect done got me again.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk



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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Your smart phones don't sound too smart!


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

So no one likes the aluminum mesh patches?

Cost too much? Not strong enough? Too difficult to feather?

I've found them to be convenient for run of the mill resi repairs.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I paint paint said:


> So no one likes the aluminum mesh patches? Cost too much? Not strong enough? Too difficult to feather? I've found them to be convenient for run of the mill resi repairs.


There are times when they are best option.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

One of these days I will have to get a video of how I do my patches. The secret is to really keep amount of mud or feathering to a minimum. Mesh patches work but theres a ton of mudd that is needed to properly feather. You have to keep in mind the more mudd the longer the drytime . Its really starts with having a pefect cut out with either a studs to screw to or adding a nailer. Object is to get a solid patch with very minimal gaps to prefill. For me I like a Rockwell to simply plunge cut everything at once. Then use ez 5 to prefill. Then go with the fuse and a very thin layer of ez 45 applied with a whizzy roller to get it to set. Wait about 10 minutes then feather out edges making sure tape is covered but not creating a hump. next step is a bit tricky but after another 10 minutes recoat. I know its still going to be wet but make sure to really float everything out and not get into the wet mud . Now that you have added 4 thin layers its time to add a fan or small electric heater. Your going to have to wait a few hours to top coat then another couple hours until its ready to sand and paint. If you do it right you can do some major blowouts and have them done in 5 to 6 hours. The huge advantage FF is that mesh will simply crack.. Then paper tape ends up swelling creating a delayed shrinking effect. Paper will work but really needs at least 24 hours before recoating. On top of that the amount of feathering needed to cover the tape is around 33% more. Anyhow go out and get a 12" wide roll and try it for you patch and match jobs. For new construction you can use it for outlets, can lights and most patch jobs. For bad outlets just go over entire opening leaving a few inches to add mudd to then coat entire patch with a 12 or 14" knife. After a few coats sand and prime it. Then cut out the hole. this will eliminate globs of mudd inside boxes or cans and theres no need to shop vac or have to stop and work around a hole when backrolling. Plus its gives great results for hiding repairs when using eggshell or higher finishes.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Two little wrinkles on the job.

First I thought I would put on my "big boy pants" and instead of hand-mixing the durabond, I used a drill and mixing paddle. Great until I noticed all the blue plastic bucket shavings in my mix. Real PITA to pick out.

And now I will end up skim-coating a couple of big ceilings. No big deal, but I'm not looking forward to the sanding. I'm thinking about renting a PortaCable drywall sander. Would the PortaCable be appropriate for sanding a skim coat?


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

ya durabond with plastic shavings in it sucks. I switched over to a Teflon mixer specifically for quick sets. No need to clean just let harden and bang it on the floor a few times. If you do use a metal paddle you need to mix up batches that are at least a quarter of a pail. Porter cables work but not really meant to sand paper bead. you can do it but just make sure not to scuff up the paper to bad.


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