# Screwdriver Bits & Interior Wall Plates



## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

I try to implement the best quality tools for the job, But I still cannot find any good bits for the flat heads that aren't too wide or thick.

Anybody find ones that work?


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

The end of your Olfa knife


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

matt19422 said:


> I try to implement the best quality tools for the job, But I still cannot find any good bits for the flat heads that aren't too wide or thick.
> 
> Anybody find ones that work?


Klein Rapidrive #671-6. They're made for that job.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

I've found a regular ole screwdriver works the best for plates, on and off. Easier to control the pressure when putting the plates on, and the screws are small, so you don't need to turn them much.


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

Grind the tip of a larger one


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

matt19422 said:


> I try to implement the best quality tools for the job, But I still cannot find any good bits for the flat heads that aren't too wide or thick.
> 
> Anybody find ones that work?


Are you messing with us?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I use B&D lithium screw driver (not drill) and grind my own slotted bit from the other end of a phillips. (now a double ended bit).

REAL tradesmen make their own tools


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Easiest day I ever had. We finished up a building and the last day all that was left to do was put on plates. I can't see how much easier any thing could be than a regular screwdriver. 









This puppy right here and me had one easy day yo.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Oden said:


> Easiest day I ever had. We finished up a building and the last day all that was left to do was put on plates. I can't see how much easier any thing could be than a regular screwdriver.
> 
> View attachment 24946
> 
> ...


I know I've harped on this repeatedly, but give the Klein Rapidrive a try. You'll understand why every Sparky seems to carry one.

They've been standard in every one of our painter's kits since the early '80s. I can't imagine going back.


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## Paint Pro CA (Jun 17, 2014)

I use a Picquic multi-bit. The width of the flat head fits the groove on the plate screw perfectly so you don't ruin the white coating. You can also switch to a star head and all the other bits in about a second and the bits can be removed and used in a drill. 

http://www.picquic.com/


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## Paint Pro CA (Jun 17, 2014)

I use a Picquic multi-bit. The width of the flat head fits the groove on the plate screw perfectly so you don't ruin the white coating. You can also switch to a star head and all the other bits in about a second and the bits can be removed and used in a drill. 

http://www.picquic.com/


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## Paint Pro CA (Jun 17, 2014)

Woah cool double post glitch


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Very very rare for me to remove and put back on plates. We cut around em. I can cut around em faster than anyone can take em off and put em back on with anything.

I do on apartments. Mine. Take em off. If the outlets and switches are old and beat. I spray em black. Spray the covers white. Looks like you got all new devices. U usually spray the unit out anyway and it makes a easier cover for the plates to be off. 

Other than that. I 'd never take a plate off for a brush and roll repaint.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Pffftt… I use my thumb nail.


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## Paint Pro CA (Jun 17, 2014)

Oden said:


> Very very rare for me to remove and put back on plates. We cut around em. I can cut around em faster than anyone can take em off and put em back on with anything.
> 
> I do on apartments. Mine. Take em off. If the outlets and switches are old and beat. I spray em black. Spray the covers white. Looks like you got all new devices. U usually spray the unit out anyway and it makes a easier cover for the plates to be off.
> 
> Other than that. I 'd never take a plate off for a brush and roll repaint.


Really? I have always taken the covers off. Rolling the wall behind where the cover goes right up to the plug opening gives a uniform finish around the plate when they are put back on as opposed to having brush strokes and roller endings around the plates. 

I take it one further on higher end jobs if the plates, plugs and switches are tan or old and browned. I will ask the HO if they would like to have my electrician come in and replace all the plugs and switches to brand new white ones and put on all new plates. Nothing ruins a nice new paint job like a bunch of old brown plugs and old metal plate covers. If the door handles are tacky, old and beat up we also often install modern door hardware if the client wants seeing as we take the old stuff off to paint the doors anyways.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Paint Pro CA said:


> Really? I have always taken the covers off. Rolling the wall behind where the cover goes right up to the plug opening gives a uniform finish around the plate when they are put back on as opposed to having brush strokes and roller endings around the plates.
> 
> I take it one further on higher end jobs if the plates, plugs and switches are tan or old and browned. I will ask the HO if they would like to have my electrician come in and replace all the plugs and switches to brand new white ones and put on all new plates. Nothing ruins a nice new paint job like a bunch of old brown plugs and old metal plate covers. If the door handles are tacky, old and beat up we also often install modern door hardware if the client wants seeing as we take the old stuff off to paint the doors anyways.


We always take em' off and clean and will occasionally replace broken ones. I hate it when the home still has ivory outlets and switches but someone has gone through and put on white covers. The height of tackiness IMO.


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## whodog94 (Aug 10, 2012)

I use a old Yankee spiral screwdriver


Sent from my iPhone using PaintTalk.com


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## Red dog (Jul 20, 2014)

RH said:


> We always take em' off and clean and will occasionally replace broken ones. I hate it when the home still has ivory outlets and switches but someone has gone through and put on white covers. The height of tackiness IMO.


I agree.I sometimes paint the switches/receptacles white with a rattle can and replace the plates if they are not being changed out.I hate leaving them looking like crap with new paint.


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

epretot said:


> Are you messing with us?


Not At All... When We Do A Residential Repaint There May Be 150 Individual Screws That We Remove And Put Back On. 

We use hand screwdrivers for ceramics plates, but for standard metal/plastic plates we use cordless drivers.


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## The 3rd Coat (Aug 17, 2013)

I bought the Klein Rapidrive based on suggesions on this site. Trouble is apart from switch plates, they are useless for everything else. A regular ratchet screwdriver with a few replacement bits is good for almost everything you can throw at it.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Ok here's a related query, what do you do with switch plate screws? 

My policy is that switch plate screws should only ever be in two places. Can anyone guess where those two places are?


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

....


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

jmayspaint said:


> ok here's a related query, what do you do with switch plate screws?
> 
> My policy is that switch plate screws should only ever be in two places. Can anyone guess where those two places are?


magnetic tray!!!!!!!!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Oden said:


> Very very rare for me to remove and put back on plates. We cut around em. I can cut around em faster than anyone can take em off and put em back on with anything.
> 
> I do on apartments. Mine. Take em off. If the outlets and switches are old and beat. I spray em black. Spray the covers white. Looks like you got all new devices. U usually spray the unit out anyway and it makes a easier cover for the plates to be off.
> 
> Other than that. I 'd never take a plate off for a brush and roll repaint.


Oden,

as you can imagine, it is advantageous for a paperhanger to remove the plates so that the paper can be trimmed right up to the box. When doing so, I oft encounter previous tradesmen who have exhibited your skill of cutting-in around the plate. The trouble is that no matter HOW exact you are, some paint does fill the tiny gap between plate and wall. Not only does this hinder the plate coming off BUT also creates a ridge that is exaggerated after a few paintings. I have to remove that.

ALSO, some sparkies put on over size plates, if the HO wants to replace that plate with a normal size plate after it has been expertly cut in, an unpainted framing around the plate shows. 

And I could give a few other reason why I wish painters would take the plate off, roll up to the box, and remount the plate (with screws slots all vertical)., but listing them all would be tedious for both us.

As a fellow OCD at-the-waller, may I request that everyone take off the plate, apply your wall finish to the box, and remount the plate.

thanks.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> Ok here's a related query, what do you do with switch plate screws?
> 
> *My policy is that switch plate screws should only ever be in two places. Can anyone guess where those two places are?*


Plate off, screw goes back in hole, where it won't get lost. :thumbsup:


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## mattpaints82 (Mar 7, 2013)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I bought the Klein Rapidrive based on suggesions on this site. Trouble is apart from switch plates, they are useless for everything else. A regular ratchet screwdriver with a few replacement bits is good for almost everything you can throw at it.


Indeed :thumbup:

I have a snap on ratcheting srewdriver that I use to put the plates on. Usually use drill to take em off.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

PaintersUnite said:


> Plate off, screw goes back in hole, where it won't get lost. :thumbsup:



Yes, the two places are in your hand and in the hole they go in.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Ok here's a related query, what do you do with switch plate screws?
> 
> My policy is that switch plate screws should only ever be in two places. Can anyone guess where those two places are?


Ok I'll play. Is one of the places at home on top of the dryer?


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## The 3rd Coat (Aug 17, 2013)

Switch plate screws are pretty unique, so collecting them in a bucket won't cause any confusion when they need to go back.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Gwarel said:


> Ok I'll play. Is one of the places at home on top of the dryer?



Lol, no switch plate screws there for me but I do have a nice collection of sandpaper, razor knives, and screwdriver bits up there that never seem to make it back into the work vehicle.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

The 3rd Coat said:


> Switch plate screws are pretty unique, so collecting them in a bucket won't cause any confusion when they need to go back.



Your right, its not a huge big deal, it's just one more thing to keep up with. I like to put them right back in the hole about 3/4 of a turn right after taking the plate off. That way they are right where you need them, and can't possibly get lost or dropped down a heat vent, etc.. 

Funny story, I was training a new guy one time and told him to put the screws right back in the holes after removing the plates. A few days later I went to put the plates back on and he had screwed them all the way down into the hole! I was fuming at the extra seconds it was taking to unscrew them. Seemed like common sense that you would only put them back in only enough to hold them, but I didn't specifically tell him that.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

matt19422 said:


> Not At All... When We Do A Residential Repaint There May Be 150 Individual Screws That We Remove And Put Back On.
> 
> We use hand screwdrivers for ceramics plates, but for standard metal/plastic plates we use cordless drivers.


Oh...I genuinely thought this was a joke.

My apologies.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

The 3rd Coat said:


> I bought the Klein Rapidrive based on suggesions on this site. Trouble is apart from switch plates, they are useless for everything else.


They are the ticket for locksets and ceiling fixtures as well.


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## Scannell Painting (Sep 25, 2010)

All screws line up straight once placed back. Just a bad quirk I have but wouldn't push it on help.


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

a rapid drive takes some getting use to.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

When the plates are off for longer than a day, screws and plates in a bucket. If shorter than a day, they are put with other room hardware: towel racks, sconces, curtain brackets, etc. 

I have a magnet clipped to my shirt for blades, it's a great thing to temporarily hold the screws.


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

So far, Bill has the only answer...to grind them down...

Let me understand this correctly...

Some people take out the screws, put back the screws, take out the screws again, and put back on the screws???????


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

matt19422 said:


> So far, Bill has the only answer...to grind them down...
> 
> Let me understand this correctly...
> 
> Some people take out the screws, *put back the screws*, take out the screws again, and put back on the screws???????


Not exactly. After removing the plate, I gently hand turn the screws back in the hole until they lightly catch, (I don't tork them in all the way). And I have never lost a screw in over 25 years. 

As far as the screwdriver, I never had the need to grind down one to fit the screws. There are plenty of small screwdrivers you can by at a hardware store, that are perfect for the job.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

matt19422 said:


> So far, Bill has the only answer...to grind them down...
> 
> Let me understand this correctly...
> 
> Some people take out the screws, put back the screws, take out the screws again, and put back on the screws???????



I do yes. For me it's part of improving efficiency in removing/installing hardware. If you have decent manual dexterity, it only takes a half second and a flick of the wrist to put the screw back in the hole and another flick of the wrist to have the right screw back in your hand when its time to instal (just don't screw them in all the way ). No more time than it takes to fish one out the bottom of a bucket. And in the hole, they can never get lost, misplaced, moved by other trades, etc., they are always right where you need them. You never have to sift through all the screws to find the two short ones you need for a GCFI, because they are already right there. 

That, along with procedures for keeping up with the plates themselves and door hardware, is something I feel is important. One guy looking for a doorknob or a switch plate for five minutes, multiplied over the course of a large job, can be a real time suck. And there is no reason for any of that to happen, it is pure waste. 

Its not the only way, but it works for me. In your hand or in the hole.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

The shorty short screws for the decora plates are a PITA to start and take out. 

A magnetized bit on an electric screw drive, IMO, hasten the removal and replacement of those busturds.

I understand the ease and convenience of returning the screw to its hole after the plate is off, and when I was painting, follow that procedure. The screws in the holes are not fun for paperhangers, especially when making a template for covering the plate with pattern matching paper. 

IMO, we all should carry extra screws for any number of reasons: loss, stripped threads, color, and replacement of old rusty ones.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

NOW, who is anal about how the slots align ?

I am one who adjusts all to vertical.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Paint Pro CA said:


> Really? I have always taken the covers off. Rolling the wall behind where the cover goes right up to the plug opening gives a uniform finish around the plate when they are put back on as opposed to having brush strokes and roller endings around the plates.
> 
> I take it one further on higher end jobs if the plates, plugs and switches are tan or old and browned. I will ask the HO if they would like to have my electrician come in and replace all the plugs and switches to brand new white ones and put on all new plates. Nothing ruins a nice new paint job like a bunch of old brown plugs and old metal plate covers. If the door handles are tacky, old and beat up we also often install modern door hardware if the client wants seeing as we take the old stuff off to paint the doors anyways.


I agree.New hardware goes along way.Attention to detail thing makes or breaks a beautiful paint job.I usually give them that option and if its not in there budget its my dime.Same goes for those ugly register vents floor or ceiling, I opt to find a close color in a rattle can to blend.


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

Vertical with my 6 in 1 made by Lutz or Irwin. :thumbsup:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

daArch said:


> NOW, who is anal about how the slots align ?
> 
> I am one who adjusts all to vertical.


:yes:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

This thread could have very well been named "bits and pieces."


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

daArch said:


> NOW, who is anal about how the slots align ?
> 
> I am one who adjusts all to vertical.



Gotta be vertical. 

I know what ya mean too about hanging paper, a screw can dull your blade in a hurry, not to mention tearing the paper and other PITAs.


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## Slopmeyer (Aug 2, 2009)

Oden said:


> Very very rare for me to remove and put back on plates. We cut around em. I can cut around em faster than anyone can take em off and put em back on with anything.
> 
> I do on apartments. Mine. Take em off. If the outlets and switches are old and beat. I spray em black. Spray the covers white. Looks like you got all new devices. U usually spray the unit out anyway and it makes a easier cover for the plates to be off.
> 
> Other than that. I 'd never take a plate off for a brush and roll repaint.


Ohhhh your that guy


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Putting screws back in the hole after removing plate would then risk getting paint on those screws, IMO. 

May be trivial, but here's the removal procedure:

-Initial bucket for removal of light & electrical plates, will transfer to zip locks on big jobs & even label which floor they're from on bigger home. If they're left in a bucket on a big job, they'll get thrown out, misplaced, etc. 

-Plates are removed with cordless and installed with magnetic screw driver. 

-Cable and phone plates are loosened enough to get tape folded behind. 1 strip of fat tape. Faster than removing those long screws and having to feed em back in after. 

-Specialty plates, fixtures, etc., are removed and screws taped to each fixture, which might be a waste of time for some, but by the time I'm putting on plates on the end of the job, last thing I want is to do a scavenger hunt for a special screw. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Does anyone use a torque wrench to install the screws?

I find using a torque wrench to be useful. It ensures the screw is tightened to the exact manufacturers specifications. A little to tight and...CRACK! 

It's especially useful for those (like Bill) who like to have the slots vertical. You know, trying to tweak that screw 1/4 turn to achieve that look can be a disaster. The torque will help you determine whether it's possible or not. If not, just loosen that baby 3/4 of a turn.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Putting screws back in the hole after removing plate would then risk getting paint on those screws, IMO.
> 
> May be trivial, but here's the removal procedure:
> Initial bucket for removal of light & electrical plates, will transfer to zip locks on big jobs & even label which floor they're from on bigger home. If they're left in a bucket on a big job, they'll get thrown out, misplaced, etc.
> ...



The labeled ziplock thing works great. Its amazing how much time can get wasted on stupid stuff like hardware if you don't watch it. Although on my last interior a ziplock with window hardware got misplaced somehow. Nothing is perfect I guess.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

epretot said:


> Does anyone use a torque wrench to install the screws?
> 
> I find using a torque wrench to be useful. It ensures the screw is tightened to the exact manufacturers specifications. A little to tight and...CRACK!
> 
> It's especially useful for those (like Bill) who like to have the slots vertical. You know, trying to tweak that screw 1/4 turn to achieve that look can be a disaster. The torque will help you determine whether it's possible or not. If not, just loosen that baby 3/4 of a turn.


I prefer to use one but find that the sound of the compressor sometimes annoys the HO. I too prefer my slots to be vertical.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

epretot said:


> Does anyone use a torque wrench to install the screws?
> 
> I find using a torque wrench to be useful. It ensures the screw is tightened to the exact manufacturers specifications. A little to tight and...CRACK!
> 
> It's especially useful for those (like Bill) who like to have the slots vertical. You know, trying to tweak that screw 1/4 turn to achieve that look can be a disaster. The torque will help you determine whether it's possible or not. If not, just loosen that baby 3/4 of a turn.



Ok, now I'm wondering if your joking:jester:

I find even the lowest torque setting on my Dewalt cordless can crack a plate sometimes.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

All cover plates, and screws get put in a bucket with hit water, and a little cleaner. Just before I put them up, white down with a rag.

For uninstalling, and reinstalling I use a magnetic multi bit screw driver

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

Are you guys snorting lines of coke before putting the plates back on? Cause that's the only way I can imagine breaking a bunch of covers.



Kidding aside, how on earth are so many of you bad enough with a drill that you'll waste time with a screwdriver? 



Set the torque to one and its almost impossible to break the cover.



Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

LOVE the irony of how we describe how NOT to waste time on such a minor detail of our jobs, yet this thread is HOW long ! ! ! 

We are all SENSATIONALLY screwy

:thumbup: :thumbsup:


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

daArch said:


> LOVE the irony of how we describe how NOT to waste time on such a minor detail of our jobs, yet this thread is HOW long ! ! !
> 
> We are all SENSATIONALLY screwy
> 
> :thumbup: :thumbsup:


Better Yet, you were really the only one who answered my original question before the thread derailed into 5 other topics:whistling2:


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> Ok, now I'm wondering if your joking:jester:
> 
> I find even the lowest torque setting on my Dewalt cordless can crack a plate sometimes.


No, I'm talking an automotive torque wrench. While the low setting on a Dewalt is good practice, it doesn't have the precision of a hand tool. 

I'm starting to wonder if you guys aren't a bunch of hacks. 

Think about it, painting is chemistry. All of this talk about primers, substrates, contamination, atomization, safety, RRP, etc., but when it comes to switch plates...you just slam the screw in with a drill?

It's shameful really.


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## Palnews26 (Jun 6, 2012)

We use these.
http://www.skiltools.com/Tools/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?model=2354-01

Super small and not very power full. Perfect for plates and way faster than a hand screwdriver.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Putting screws back in the hole after removing plate would then risk getting paint on those screws, IMO.
> Stelzer Painting Inc.


Never got paint on or lost a screw in 25 years.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

PaintersUnite said:


> Never got paint on or lost a screw in 25 years.



I don't wanna say it....
I don't wanna say it....
Shhhhennanigans!
You made me say it. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I don't wanna say it....
> I don't wanna say it....
> Shhhhennanigans!
> You made me say it.
> ...


Yeah, if you didn't say it, I would have. 

25 years? Rrrrriiiiight.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I don't wanna say it....
> I don't wanna say it....
> Shhhhennanigans!
> You made me say it.
> ...


It's pretty hard to lose a screw that is placed back in the screw hole, and
It's pretty hard to get paint on a screw that has been taped properly.

With a little practice, you'll get the hang of it. :whistling2:


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

journeymanPainter said:


> All cover plates, and screws get put in a bucket with hit water, and a little cleaner. Just before I put them up, white down with a rag.
> 
> For uninstalling, and reinstalling I use a magnetic multi bit screw driver
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Hit water what is that? never hear of it before?


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

PaintersUnite said:


> It's pretty hard to lose a screw that is placed back in the screw hole, and
> It's pretty hard to get paint on a screw that has been taped properly.
> 
> With a little practice, you'll get the hang of it. :whistling2:


You're the Cal Ripken of your profession. That's quite a run.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Northwest_painter said:


> Hit water what is that? never hear of it before?


It was supposed to say hot, but autocorrect thinks I meant hit, and the forum won't let me edit it. 

WHY CRICKET WHY!

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

journeymanPainter said:


> It was supposed to say hot, but autocorrect thinks I meant hit, and the forum won't let me edit it.
> 
> WHY CRICKET WHY!
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


or is it fat finger syndrome?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I was taught to use a standard screw driver sized to the exact slot dimensions of the plate screw. After removing the plate and storing it in a deuce, I was taught to replace the screw securely but not too tight back into the receptical or switch frame holes. 

I was then taught to run a two inch wide strip of masking tape over the outlets and switches from top to bottom, cutting the tape with a three inch broad knife edge anchored firmly at the end of the full length required, and then quickly pulling the tape roll with an upward and right motion, leaving the tape with a straight end cut. All the plates were wiped or washed as needed depending upon the accessability of water.

Replacement of the plates simply followed a reversal of the removal process, with the exception that all the plate screws were securely fastened and lined up vertically or horizontally depending on the aesthetic grain and flow of textures, patterns, and the surrounding features supporting the interior decor. I did find that a vertical orientation gave height to the ceilings.



Oh...And I have, on plenty of occasions, just painted around the plates.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Northwest_painter said:


> or is it fat finger syndrome?


Your guess I'd as good as mine

Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

CApainter said:


> I was taught to use a standard screw driver sized to the exact slot dimensions of the plate screw. After removing the plate and storing it in a deuce, I was taught to replace the screw securely but not too tight back into the receptical or switch frame holes.
> 
> I was then taught to run a two inch wide strip of masking tape over the outlets and switches from top to bottom, cutting the tape with a three inch broad knife edge anchored firmly at the end of the full length required, and then quickly pulling the tape roll with an upward and right motion, leaving the tape with a straight end cut. All the plates were wiped or washed as needed depending upon the accessability of water.
> 
> ...


CA, you can make the simplest task sound WOW! :thumbsup:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

You know, I always put set the screws horizontally. Now, I see from PT this has been incorrect all along.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I bought this little 12v set years ago and it has held up incredibly well. That little drill is the perfect size to toss in your work bag and it comes with a bit set with a slotted bit perfect for outlet covers. The clutch on the lowest setting is also perfect; you pretty much just lay a finger on the chuck while driving and the clutch will slip. Has never cracked a plate but I still must be a hack!

If'n ya didn't know, Hitachi makes some great power tools. I was surprised when my father in law (carpenter/cabinet maker) told me this, but the proof as been in the pudding. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_306199-6770...v&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=hitachi+12v&facetInfo=


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

DeanV said:


> You know, I always put set the screws horizontally. Now, I see from PT this has been incorrect all along.


I think CONSISTENCY is the best way.

I used to do switch plates vertical and single screw outlet plates horizontal, but I opted for all the same. 

Sometimes when the plate is papered, and the pattern calls for it, I have the slot directioned best for the pattern. And then SOMETIMES I get REAL OCD


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

daArch said:


> I think CONSISTENCY is the best way.
> 
> I used to do switch plates vertical and single screw outlet plates horizontal, but I opted for all the same.
> 
> ...


Wow Bill! I bet they have trouble finding the switch it is so camoflauged!


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

vermontpainter said:


> Wow Bill! I bet they have trouble finding the switch it is so camoflauged!


Yeah, I would complain about it being done too well.

I am truly amazed by paper hangers.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Scannell Painting said:


> All screws line up straight once placed back. Just a bad quirk I have but wouldn't push it on help.


My pet peeve as well.Plus covers have to be plumb! Had my wife helping me out one day, noticed I said once :whistling2:and had her putting back on plates for me and some she had crooked and all screws were out of line and I handed her a torpedo level to get them aligned and made sure all screw slots were vertical.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Not rocket science. Use a small power driver to remove/install. Put covers in a ziploc bag with screws, each bag labeled for the room they came from. Minimal messing with the plates and screws, nothing gets lost, easy to put back where they came from.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Just my $.02 worth but I can't think of any circumstance where it would be OK to not remove the covers.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

journeymanPainter said:


> It was supposed to say hot, but autocorrect thinks I meant hit, and the forum won't let me edit it.
> 
> WHY CRICKET WHY!
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Never heard of white down either.What if there ivory?:blink:


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

epretot said:


> I am truly amazed by paper hangers.


Yeah me too, all but in a slightly different way:whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Toolnut said:


> Just my $.02 worth but I can't think of any circumstance where it would be OK to not remove the covers.


Agree painters are always trying to find an outlet!:whistling2:


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

daArch said:


> I think CONSISTENCY is the best way.
> 
> I used to do switch plates vertical and single screw outlet plates horizontal, but I opted for all the same.
> 
> ...


That is some of the best paper hanging skills I have ever seen!


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

Sorry I am not that anal retentive with placing a plate screw back in. it goes in, were the slot is when I am done is were it is. anything else and it is a sign that in a few years your wearing old tissue boxes on your feet and babbling incoherently. There might be a few of those poor souls here now on paint talk.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Northwest_painter said:


> Sorry I am not that anal retentive with placing a plate screw back in. it goes in, were the slot is when I am done is were it is. anything else and it is a sign that in a few years your wearing old tissue boxes on your feet and babbling incoherently. There might be a few of those poor souls here now on paint talk.


Yea, they're all in the "Old Peoples Pain Forum"


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Toolnut said:


> Just my $.02 worth but I can't think of any circumstance where it would be OK to not remove the covers.


I'll give you a couple;

1.) Where a computer that cannot be unplugged, and has too many obstructions that won't allow for the receptical plate to simply slide down the cord.

2.) Where a painter has painted around it before, or completely covered it with paint.

3.) Where a union job site doesn't allow painters to perform any work related to an electricians classification, and the electricians have no interest in keeping ahead of the painters.

4.) Where an explosion proof or waterproof seal has been made that can't be compromised for just paint.

5.) Where it has been determined that there is no aesthetic value to removing and replacing a plate before and after painting.

6.) Where evidence of a short circuit can be determined by black soot, potentially creating a further hazard if removed.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

CApainter said:


> I'll give you a couple;
> 
> 1.) Where a computer that cannot be unplugged, and has too many obstructions that won't allow for the receptical plate to simply slide down the cord.
> 
> ...


1 Maybe

2. So because he was a hack doesn't mean you have to be

3. So the union doesn't allow you to do the job properly.

4. Have never run into this so if you cannot that is not the same as won't

5 Determined by whom ?

6. As you would with any safety factor you bring it to someone's attention then when it's fixed you finish painting. 

Really to paint around covers is almost the same as painting over them.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

CApainter said:


> I'll give you a couple;
> 
> 1.) Where a computer that cannot be unplugged, and has too many obstructions that won't allow for the receptical plate to simply slide down the cord.
> 
> ...


and then of course there is always the Mr Bean way - I'm not sure he took off the plates

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X1SuLjnRcI


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I can't believe this thread is still going.

I use a basic slotted screwdriver so I fully control how tight to replace the plates. 
I almost always remove the plates before painting. CA painter already gave a couple of reasons why it cannot always be done efficiently.

I try to have the screws end up vertical, but this cannot always be done and have a nice, snug fit against the wall.

And the plates cannot always be perfectly plumb, unless you want to take the time to play with the electrical box itself. I have run across some pretty screwed up outlet positions, and I'm not paid to play electrician.

I usually place all screws and plates in a tupperware container before painting so I don't lose anything. 

I wish all painting-related issues were this cut and dry.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

SemiproJohn said:


> I can't believe this thread is still going.
> 
> I use a basic slotted screwdriver so I fully control how tight to replace the plates.
> I almost always remove the plates before painting. CA painter already gave a couple of reasons why it cannot always be done efficiently.
> ...


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

chrisn said:


> SemiproJohn said:
> 
> 
> > I can't believe this thread is still going.
> ...


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Yeh right. How long does it take to paint a room? Guys are putting covers on wet paint? Lol
Put the screws in ur jean pockets. Lol


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Dear God...Really! 5 pages and counting on face plates and screw drivers


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Toolnut said:


> 1 Maybe
> 
> 2. So because he was a hack doesn't mean you have to be
> 
> ...


Toolnut,

You're making the assumption that the only thing painters are painting are high end homes or standard residential repaints, where it is obvious that you will remove as many fixture covers, electrical plates, or any other hardware as reasonably possible. I'm certainly not working on those sites exclusively.

And BTW, whats the difference between cutting in around a fixed door knob or cutting in around a face plate? And I understand that the best painting practice is to remove them prior to painting. But, many times removing a door knob on a standard repaint rather then just expertly cutting in around it can present more problems then what its worth.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

CApainter said:


> Toolnut,
> 
> whats the difference between cutting in around a fixed door knob or cutting in around a face plate? And I understand that the best painting practice is to remove them prior to painting.


And you're gonna be the paint-pro of the month. :no:


Personally...I put switch plate screws in an envelope, duct tape it shut, and put that in a safety deposit box at the bank until the job is completed.

(the special screwdriver I use is kept there too, but in the main vault)


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I think I will just take them off right before rolling the wall from now on and put them back on when the wall is still wet. No time to lose a screw that way.


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## Northwest_painter (Jan 27, 2012)

aaron61 said:


> Dear God...Really! 5 pages and counting on face plates and screw drivers


This might help!


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Oden said:


> Yeh right. How long does it take to paint a room? Guys are putting covers on wet paint? Lol
> Put the screws in ur jean pockets. Lol


You forgot, real painters don't wear jeans.:jester:

And...all the plates on my jobs get finished the same as the walls, even the screws.


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

mudbone said:


> My pet peeve as well.Plus covers have to be plumb! Had my wife helping me out one day, noticed I said once :whistling2:and had her putting back on plates for me and some* she had crooked and all screws were out of line* and I handed her a torpedo level to get them aligned and made sure all screw slots were vertical.


If people on my job do this I give them a good tongue lashing.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

aaron61 said:


> Dear God...Really! 5 pages and counting on face plates and screw drivers


New plates come with a free screw. Just throw away the old plates and screws and buy new plates.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Dear God...Really! 5 pages and counting on face plates and screw drivers



it'll drive you screwy


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

SemiproJohn said:


> chrisn said:
> 
> 
> > I don't have a clue why you're asking me this...
> ...


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

aaron61 said:


> Dear God...Really! 5 pages and counting on face plates and screw drivers


:yesainters obviously have alot on there plates!.:whistling2:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

mudbone said:


> :yesainters obviously have alot on there plates!.:whistling2:


and many loose screws


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## GaryB (Mar 31, 2014)

I take a picture of each plate so I can get those screw slots back exactly like I found them.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

Was at Lowe's today and saw this bit set… was the only one that had a thinner flat blade. I bought it as backup and the smallest blade easily fits the smaller slotted screws on wall plates.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_217891-353-...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=bosch+bit+set&facetInfo=


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Awesome! A whole thread on plates with over 100 replies lol


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Woodland said:


> Awesome! A whole thread on plates with over 100 replies lol


Shocking!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Woodland said:


> Awesome! A whole thread on plates with over 100 replies lol


Goes to show you that painters are detail oriented.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

There must be other angles we can look at this issue from in the interests of generating theoretical models. Statistics must be generated!


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

GaryB said:


> I take a picture of each plate so I can get those screw slots back exactly like I found them.


You're joking, right? i mean what if you get the pictures out of order and then what?????


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## GoTime (Jul 2, 2013)

http://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=4/5+insert+bit


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

fauxlynn said:


> You're joking, right? i mean what if you get the pictures out of order and then what?????


Complete and utter chaos in the universe. :shutup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

fauxlynn said:


> You're joking, right? i mean what if you get the pictures out of order and then what?????


your sarcasm meter needs to be either whacked or recalibrated :whistling2: :thumbup:


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