# Mahogany Doors



## jimgalla (Feb 20, 2009)

Hi Guys , We just did a job at a church new construction, Construction co. had us doors in basement . So the doors are clear and finished , but we ended up with dust particles . I am looking for advice on how to get out dust and not have to clear again . Basically any ideas appreciated . Thanks


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Depends upon what product/s you used, how thickly you applied it, whether the dust just settled on the top layer or somewhere deeper, and whether or not there was any tint/colorant added to the products. Pics would be lovely. Without them or more info, you're about to get a bunch of replies from good painters, but horrible mind readers.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

jimgalla said:


> Hi Guys , We just did a job at a church new construction, Construction co. had us doors in basement . So the doors are clear and finished , but we ended up with dust particles . I am looking for advice on how to get out dust and not have to clear again . Basically any ideas appreciated . Thanks



What "clear" are you using?


ideas (brainstorming):

- *wet sand with 1000-2000 grit*? just to knock off the texture and not adjust the sheen?

-* paste finishing wax* applied with 0000 steel or bronze wool- (probably not recommended, as makes refinishing difficult).

- *buff with automotive compounds and polishing disc- * just lightly sand with ~800-1000 grit to knock off the high spots, and then polish until you achieve the sheen you’re looking for. Coarse compounds up to fine polishing compound, and even canna car wax for high sheen.

- *apply another coat (if poly) with steel wool or bronze wool**-*This hand-rubbed finish is very easy to do with poly, and usually looks good. thinning may be necessary. Again, not sure what products you are using* That would be really helpful to know. Apply poly with steel wool, final pass wipe with grain, or wipe directionally with microfiber cloth.

*- 0000 Steel wool with soapy water-* again, brainstorming. 
this gives nice feel, as it takes off the high points, and leaves surface smooth. Have to be careful and check for swirl marks.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Yeah, I have to agree not enough info given, esp on what was applied and how thick. But my first thought was, like Holland, to wet sand at something like 1000 or better. You'd test first.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I should also mention that we'd need to know how long ago the doors were done.


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

Rub a brown paper lunch bag on it? Saw that on a YouTube video once.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

How many doors? Did you spray or brush?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

-


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## jimgalla (Feb 20, 2009)

Just got back from work , Thanks for the replies . Doors were done 3 weeks ago , 1 coat of sealer and 2 coats Minwax satin poly. They were sanded in between coats smooth . Dust is basically on the top coat , sheen is fine just want to remove dust particles. 3 doors and they were sprayed .. Not the easiest place to door them . Hope this helps


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Masterwork said:


> Rub a brown paper lunch bag on it? Saw that on a YouTube video once.


Works great on lacquer. Not sure about poly. I usually just use masking paper. Worth a try... Its usually just for light overspray settling, not actual 'dust' if thats what it is.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Not sure if you're still looking for answers on this, but I've been working on something similar recently. If the surface texture is too rough the doors should be redone, otherwise you may try lightly hand-sanding with S2000 foam sanding pads dipped in soapy water just to take the nibs off.


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## jimgalla (Feb 20, 2009)

Great well Thanks to you all . I will be back on that job next week and try a couple of the tricks . Will update results .


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

Ooo is there a prize for the winner?


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## Hissing Cobra (Feb 24, 2014)

Anytime you're spraying a door and the door is laying flat, dust particles in the air will settle down onto all horizontal surfaces and will embed themselves into the final product. With that being said, prep is key! I would sand them down with 220 grit sandpaper (sanding with the grain of the wood), vacuum them off (with a brush on the end of the hose) and then vacuum the entire room. When vacuuming, definitely use a paper bag inside the shop vac so that the vacuumed particles don't get ejected out the back of the vacuum and instead, get trapped inside the bag. Once everything is clean and dust free, stand the doors up and re-vacumm them, again with the brush on the end. Spray them in the upright position but be careful to not have runs in them. Dust particles settle and if the door is in the upright position, it'll be harder for them to settle into the finish. Good luck!


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Hissing Cobra said:


> Anytime you're spraying a door and the door is laying flat, dust particles in the air will settle down onto all horizontal surfaces and will embed themselves into the final product. With that being said, prep is key! I would sand them down with 220 grit sandpaper (sanding with the grain of the wood), vacuum them off (with a brush on the end of the hose) and then vacuum the entire room. When vacuuming, definitely use a paper bag inside the shop vac so that the vacuumed particles don't get ejected out the back of the vacuum and instead, get trapped inside the bag. Once everything is clean and dust free, stand the doors up and re-vacumm them, again with the brush on the end. Spray them in the upright position but be careful to not have runs in them. Dust particles settle and if the door is in the upright position, it'll be harder for them to settle into the finish. Good luck!


 Thread is a year old, but in your defense, he never did report back..


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## Hissing Cobra (Feb 24, 2014)

Ah, I didn't even realize that. DOH!


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