# Re-staining intricate newel posts and hand rails



## jcooperpainting (Apr 20, 2016)

Customer would like newel posts and handrails to be re-stained of equal tone or maybe a tad darker, spindles will end up painting white or black. Anyone got any hot tips on the best approach for the re-staining of such intricate posts that doesn't involve an eternity of stripping and sanding?

Was Thinking of cleaning with mineral spirits, maybe lightly sand and then few coats of general finishes gel stain and then clear coats. Never done any top coat staining, always sanded down to bare, but I just don't see that being feasible with these posts (there's 7 of them). My concern is top coating without tons of removal of original coating will just look blotchy/shotty and hack-ish.

(No clue why the photos uploaded sideways, can't figure out how to flip them upright)

any input greatly appreciated


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont think it will look right unless its stripped...


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## jcooperpainting (Apr 20, 2016)

had a feeling that would be the general feedback. Any stripper products/process you'd recommend?


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

General Finishes oil-based gel stain?






https://generalfinishes.com/how-to-videos


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Gel Stain probably best option. IMO. Thats gonna be a b*&$# to strip..

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


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## akrause (May 18, 2010)

I've used Minwax Polyshades (stain & poly mixed - comes in oil & waterbased - I've always used oil) with some success a few times before but it only comes in limited colors and certainly won't look like a complete strip/refinish. Available @ HDepot and some Sherwin Williams stores. Also, Sikkens ProLuxe Cetol (*Not* Cetol 1 or Cetol 23) Door & window finish has saved my butt more than once on something that was going to be next to impossible to strip. It lays on top of marginally prepped surfaces. It's technically an exterior product but I don't see why it couldn't be used indoors. Only drawback again is limited colors. Available @ HDepot & PPG. links to both below. Good luck.

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polyshades

https://www.perfectwoodstains.com/products/doors-windows-stain


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

How much do you think it would cost to build a staircase like that today? The local Chamber of Commerce is in a victorian era house and the estimate was over $400,000.00 to replace theirs. (it was bigger than this one) Now why would anyone use any minwax product on it? You want it to look like a $400,000.00 staircase not some $20 knock down book case. (unleash the hounds of hell! They don't scare me at all!)


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## Gloucestermen (Mar 19, 2019)

Since you stated the original finish is and poor "blotchy/shotty and hack-ish" there are limited choices. IMO you should revisit with the owners explain the issues with the original finish. If they are on board with the idea of stripping and refinishing I would proceed. Then and only then; trying to blend a new finish of what you described sounds like more of a mess to me. 


I'd not get caught in a bid unless your sure of your experience in bidding this type of restoration. I'd go cost plus or time and material. This could be very expensive. The fact they want to darken the finish is helpful but there are lots of variables when stripping especially indoors. Consider also the original patina will be lost in the stripping process so you may have to custom mix a stain that will work with the existing woodwork that your not working on. 


I'm new here but have been involved with extensive finishing projects including stripping both marine and interior trim projects. In Chicago, lots of older homes were trimmed out in Honduran & Philippine mahogany. Most were painted overtime and new owners wanted the old varnished look back. I stripped many of them and then varnished them back to original finishes. JMO good luck with your decision!


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