# Exterior oil primers



## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

With all the good stuff (voc's) being taken out of the primers what is everyone using these days? I'm working on a job now with lots of chipping and peeling cedar clapboard. Along with cedar shake. I've been reading up on what manufacturers have the most vocs still in their primer and it looks to me to be the moorewhite 100. Granted I'm in ny so other states may be higher. I have been severely disappointed with the sw exterior oil primer (long dry). It used to take about 24 hours to dry. Now it's dry within 3-4 hours. Coverstain to me is out of the question as neither that nor the sw product even block knots anymore. I was thinking of adding some penetrol. Would that help or are we at the mercy of the tree huggers?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Here is what I'm working with. We stripped all the shake shingle that was on the top half and will be replacing with grade B white cedar shake. The bottom half is 1/2x8" cedar bevel. It's like this on the whole house.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

BM100 primer is still a true long oil resin, and comes in deep base for tinting dark.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Are you doing this all off of ladders? !

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Are you doing this all off of ladders? !
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk




Oh ya off ladders. We only need 32's to get to the top. No big deal 


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Oh ya off ladders. We only need 32's to get to the top. No big deal
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My gawd. Why not just set up scaffold. ? Sorry to get off topic. Lol

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

finishesbykevyn said:


> My gawd. Why not just set up scaffold. ? Sorry to get off topic. Lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk




I know this is a total osha violation but I find it much easier to setup 6-7 ladders all at equal height and just walk from next to next to... that reduces climbing down and it's not that bad. 


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I know this is a total osha violation but I find it much easier to setup 6-7 ladders all at equal height and just walk from next to next to... that reduces climbing down and it's not that bad.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have you ever used ladder jacks and a pick? It would eliminate all but two ladders.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

CApainter said:


> Have you ever used ladder jacks and a pick? It would eliminate all but two ladders.




I have not but I like the way we do things and non of my crew are to much of sissies to just walk the walk 


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I have not but I like the way we do things and non of my crew are to much of sissies to just walk the walk
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Walking a plank suspended 28 ft. up might challenge their manliness.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I know this is a total osha violation but I find it much easier to setup 6-7 ladders all at equal height and just walk from next to next to... that reduces climbing down and it's not that bad.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ya, but scaffolding is just so much nicer to work off. Especially for demo jobs like that. Not to mention so much faster and safer once it's set up..

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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

Back to topic I was wondering the same on oil primers today for exterior painting. I use the BIN oil primer for convenience. I have used the SW oil as well but the wait time is not acceptable. What is this BM1000. I googled it and found nothing. I'm assuming it is Benjamin Moore. Does it go by another name? What else is there? It would be nice to get one that was thicker and less messy.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

cardgunner said:


> Back to topic I was wondering the same on oil primers today for exterior painting. I use the BIN oil primer for convenience. I have used the SW oil as well but the wait time is not acceptable. What is this BM1000. I googled it and found nothing. I'm assuming it is Benjamin Moore. Does it go by another name? What else is there? It would be nice to get one that was thicker and less messy.


https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us...og/fspep/fresh-start-premium-exterior-primers

Most people around here use the 094 (fast dry)or 100 (long oil) or 046 (waterborne). I also stock the arborcoat 366, which is fast dry oil and comes in a deep tint base


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

We we're actually shut down by an inspector yesterday. Apparently I need a permit to paint in my city. We took all the new shake shingles to my storage unit and rolled all them with the moorewhite 100. About 600sq ft given the exposure they are set at. It was actually much easier than brushing all that especially the rough part of the bottom of the shingle. Damn inspectors! I got all paperwork to submit to the city but it won't all be ready to be picked up till Wednesday. I'm going to roll the dice tomorrow and go back to work there.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Can the moorewhite 100 be used to do a full oil Prime on the sunny side of the house even if its going over some old latex paint? Or should I just spot Prime the bare wood. It's all cedar clapboard 


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Can the moorewhite 100 be used to do a full oil Prime on the sunny side of the house even if its going over some old latex paint? Or should I just spot Prime the bare wood. It's all cedar clapboard
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



BM100 can be used over old weathered latex though its not necessary if the previous coating is in good condition and that 100 primer isn't cheap! spot prime and 2 coats of mooreguard would be fine.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> BM100 can be used over old weathered latex though its not necessary if the previous coating is in good condition and that 100 primer isn't cheap! spot prime and 2 coats of mooreguard would be fine.




To me it's worth the price it's a great primer. My stores only stock the regal high build. Is it that much different than the Moore guard/glo? I was doing some reading that the high build has a tendency to pull on the coats underneath and causes blistering. Is that true? Or just go with high build. Here is the clapboard







lots of scraping. All the shake is being replaced 


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> To me it's worth the price it's a great primer. My stores only stock the regal high build. Is it that much different than the Moore guard/glo? I was doing some reading that the high build has a tendency to pull on the coats underneath and causes blistering. Is that true? Or just go with high build. Here is the clapboard
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Highbuild also does not have the alkyd resins that make mooreguard such a good paint to use over weathered and chalky substrates. Anywhere it looks water damaged/spongy, especially around doors and windows, I would also first treat with dalys shipnshore or similar product.


BM094, 100, 046, 366 can all be used over that weathered old paint that is tightly adhered.


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## vwbowman (May 15, 2017)

cardgunner said:


> Back to topic I was wondering the same on oil primers today for exterior painting. I use the BIN oil primer for convenience. I have used the SW oil as well but the wait time is not acceptable. What is this BM1000. I googled it and found nothing. I'm assuming it is Benjamin Moore. Does it go by another name? What else is there? It would be nice to get one that was thicker and less messy.


Copy the following to your search:
media.benjaminmoore.com/WebServices/prod/assets/production/datasheets/TDS_0100/20180710%20100%20TDS%20US%20OKF.pdf

I believe the reference is Benjamin Moore Fresh Start MoorWhite Exterior Wood Primer 100

A little Moore is always better!


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

We were able to roll all the shakes before we started installing and there is still some bleeding. I can't imaging having to rebrush all of them with another coat of oil. I'm either going to use regal select or possibly aura if it will stop the tannin stains? Anyone have luck with that?


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> We were able to roll all the shakes before we started installing and there is still some bleeding. I can't imaging having to rebrush all of them with another coat of oil. I'm either going to use regal select or possibly aura if it will stop the tannin stains? Anyone have luck with that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Eww. Your painting the cedar shakes? Cedar is the bloodiest of them all.. If it's a lighter tone, your gonna need a couple coats of oil primer. Staining shakes is best... Not sure why people paint cedar. When it eventually fails, it is a nightmare to restore. 

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Eww. Your painting the cedar shakes? Cedar is the bloodiest of them all.. If it's a lighter tone, your gonna need a couple coats of oil primer. Staining shakes is best... Not sure why people paint cedar. When it eventually fails, it is a nightmare to restore.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk




I think they say aura will block cedar stains. Think it will take care of it on two coats allowed to dry overnight?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I think they say aura will block cedar stains. Think it will take care of it on two coats allowed to dry overnight?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Tannins may be locked into the primer film already, but aura does not block... its a chance you take having bleed through instead of another primer coat. Your choice


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I think they say aura will block cedar stains. Think it will take care of it on two coats allowed to dry overnight?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mm. I dunno. What colour? Still a latex paint after all..

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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I think they say aura will block cedar stains. Think it will take care of it on two coats allowed to dry overnight?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did some exterior samples on some true mahogany last fall with one coat of the Moorwhite 100 followed by two coats of Aura Low Luster for a project I started 2 weeks ago. It’s a deep base color. The samples have been left it in the weather since last November and haven’t experienced any bleeding. I’m also running one full coat of the 100 on a complete strip/refinish of both WRC and Sapele followed by 2 coats of the Aura. I’m not getting any bleeding on that either and we’ve gotten a lot of rain before curing. Also did 12,000 linear feet of WRC 2 years ago with one coat of the 100 followed by 2 coats of Moorlife Flat white, and got -zero- tannin bleed going into the third year. 

I’m guessing you’ll be okay with just the one coat of the 100 as long as you applied it according to the recommended wet film thickness. The Atlantic white cedar has minimal tannins. As long as you edge and back primed, I wouldn’t worry about bleeding....but when in doubt, do another coat of oil.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

It's all eastern white cedar


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

jr.sr. painting said:


> It's all eastern white cedar
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


One other consideration is to check to see what the drying schedule was on your EWC. They are often kiln dried to 12%, but are sometimes air dried to upwards 20%. The KD shakes have less of a tendency to bleed when shop primed before installation.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

The packaging said kiln dried and they are kept inside an out building. They were definitely dry. You can tell when your cutting them if they snap easy then you know they are dry.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Mm. I dunno. What colour? Still a latex paint after all..
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


agreed. if its latex its going to bleed. Need oil primer.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

It's all getting one coat of moorewhite 100. I planed on regal select low lusture as a topcoat. Just hoping the bleeding is trapped in the primer even though in some spots it does look stained after the primer dried. 
We're making good progress on installing it.










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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

So for priming and potentially painting all the shake shingles I was think of using the trick I've read about many times on here with a bucket, small frame and cover and grid. Is that a good idea and will it leave lap marks? I was probably gonna give it a finish stroke with a brush so there's no roller marks. Any advice or tricks on this method?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

It's all primed once with moorewhite 100. It's going to need a second coat when the rain stops. All window trim was replaced with ewp and all new Shakes are eastern white cedar. It's a shame one coat of oil primer doesn't take care of it anymore. Bs actually!


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## BeerbowerPainting (Jul 31, 2018)

I don't know if you can find any Richards Paint around you but they have a great slow (24hr) drying oil primer. I've used it on lots of cedar (mostly red) and have never had an issue with tannin bleed through. My PPG dealer stocks it.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I looked it up and couldn't find the exact product. I have already purchased 8 gallons of moorewhite so that's what I'll be using. The weather side of the house the same one in the pics. Had a lot of scraping and sanding today. We're going to be priming tomorrow. What is the consensus on the full oil Prime even if it will be going over some old latex finish that was not removed. I'm new back to bm after I gave up on sw exterior products. My S-W reps have told me for years that oil primer over latex finish can create peeling. We sanded all surfaces with 80grit on sheet sanders. 


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> I looked it up and couldn't find the exact product. I have already purchased 8 gallons of moorewhite so that's what I'll be using. The weather side of the house the same one in the pics. Had a lot of scraping and sanding today. We're going to be priming tomorrow. What is the consensus on the full oil Prime even if it will be going over some old latex finish that was not removed. I'm new back to bm after I gave up on sw exterior products. My S-W reps have told me for years that oil primer over latex finish can create peeling. We sanded all surfaces with 80grit on sheet sanders.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



exterior oil primers like 094 and 100 remain somewhat flexible, it is ok to go over previous latex with them.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> exterior oil primers like 094 and 100 remain somewhat flexible, it is ok to go over previous latex with them.




Thanks that's some assurance. I was planning on topcoating with regal Moore guard on trim and siding(different colors)


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Thanks that's some assurance. I was planning on topcoating with regal Moore guard on trim and siding(different colors)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



that's like 90% of the exterior paint that I move. 094, 046 and mooreguard.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

How does the 046 block stains? I was considering using that on the bead board t&g soffits since it's the same color but after scraping there are too many knots showing through. It's the houses' centennial year. I haven't found latex products to block old knots.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jr.sr. painting said:


> How does the 046 block stains? I was considering using that on the bead board t&g soffits since it's the same color but after scraping there are too many knots showing through. It's the houses' centennial year. I haven't found latex products to block old knots.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


2 coats of 046 usually does ok. Otherwise they have this 

http://www.insl-x.com/product-detail/inslx-products/blockout-exterior-tannin-blocking-primer

Never used it though


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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

jr.sr. painting said:


> It's all primed once with moorewhite 100. It's going to need a second coat when the rain stops. All window trim was replaced with ewp and all new Shakes are eastern white cedar. It's a shame one coat of oil primer doesn't take care of it anymore. Bs actually!


JR, Nice work. Are you also doing the install of the shakes, also? if so what is your bundle price. Since Trump and his tariffs my price has shot up to $75 for unbutted and not squared. Thinking on going to a road trip to Canada and getting them for 50 Canadian dollars. 

Are you dipping them?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

cardgunner said:


> JR, Nice work. Are you also doing the install of the shakes, also? if so what is your bundle price. Since Trump and his tariffs my price has shot up to $75 for unbutted and not squared. Thinking on going to a road trip to Canada and getting them for 50 Canadian dollars.
> 
> Are you dipping them?




Thanks. Yes we installed the shakes. We do all of our own carpentry. I'll leave trump out of it but I paid $51 a bundle for B grade eastern white cedar. Butted not squared. We were back priming with sw exterior latex and face priming with moorewhite 100. All rolled on before installing them. 


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

All this work im putting into prep and wood replacement, I can't decide in what paint. Either regal select high build or old school regal Moore guard? 


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Still more to go but the finish line is getting close. I suck at taking pics that show the color differences and compliments. Now we have to get a yard of soil and seed and fix the lawn in the backyard where we turned it into a swamp cleaning brushes and pots. Btw the moorewhite blocked the knots in one coat and aura 4b covered said primer in one coat. That paint is the real deal


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## detailssls (May 23, 2018)

It would challenge my womanliness


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