# Lets talk tape



## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I'm curious how you guys are using tape on interior jobs (non spray) and what kinds. 

For example, an interior two coat re paint with stained trim. I'm guessing most guys use tape on top of the baseboard to keep roller splatter off of it, but do you also use the tape to make the finished line? If so how? Would you tape all the trim or just the base? Or do you think tape is not necessary at all? 

I know there are some guys here that use tape extensively for making lines. Turn us on to some tape tricks you've picked up, or some pitfalls you've e encountered. 

I'll start by repeating a good trick I read here. Wish I could remember who wrote it and where. 

(Paraphrase) When using Frog tape or 3m edge lock tape, running a damp rag along the line works to activate the edge lock, and helps prevent bleed through. Especially on delicate surfaces where you really don't want to push the tape down real hard with a knife.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

Lets not.....


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## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

That's funny
Was going to say the same thing


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Ole34 said:


> Lets not.....



How bout we do. How do you deal with roller splatter on baseboard? Wipe it off? Maybe you don't have any roller splatter, how so?


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## Danahy (Dec 11, 2008)

I'll pull out the tape in a corner where two door frames meet. Sometimes where I have to do a line somewhere, which will almost definitely bleed on me regardless of which technique or prayer I say in advance. Then I just freehand a touch up over the bleed.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

All trim gets taped.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Two inch "Blue" tape and a three inch broad knife, with a Katana edge, has got me through many battles.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> How bout we do. How do you deal with roller splatter on baseboard? Wipe it off? Maybe you don't have any roller splatter, how so?


back in the day the cheap paints would always splatter and even then i would just rag it off but with todays premium paints thats not really an issue.. occasionaly you get a drop but ill just rag it off


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Ole34 said:


> back in the day the cheap paints would always splatter and even then i would just rag it off but with todays premium paints thats not really an issue.. occasionaly you get a drop but ill just rag it off


I have to cover miles of vinyl cove base with tape before rolling, but I get your point with the new paints. I would just hate to have to bend down to wipe off base boards. And wouldn't wiping screw up your paint job given that paint spatter has to be wiped immediately before it dries?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Tape mostly everything. Use 1.5 inch 2090 blue. Run your tape so it butts up to the wall or very slightly on it (1/32"), then run putty knife across to tighten the tape up. You should not see tape covering any wall now, only sealed up to it, and it is sealed.


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## whodog94 (Aug 10, 2012)

Before I started taping base, the base would be the last thing we'd paint. I still do it that way occasionally.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

CApainter said:


> I have to cover miles of vinyl cove base with tape before rolling, but I get your point with the new paints. I would just hate to have to bend down to wipe off base boards. And wouldn't wiping screw up your paint job given that paint spatter has to be wiped immediately before it dries?


usaully wipes right off of the poly... sometimes a drop will land in that ''sweet spot'' where the stained base meets the wall with half of the drop on the cut line an the other half on the base .. drops usually land on the floor to be honest though


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

whodog94 said:


> Before I started taping base, the base would be the last thing we'd paint. I still do it that way occasionally.


therye talking about stained trim


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## whodog94 (Aug 10, 2012)

Ole34 said:


> therye talking about stained trim


oh well in that case depending on how tight the trim is to the wall determines how we do it, if it's tight tape it, but usually cut and wipe


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Tape to protect the baseboard only all other lines are cut. 

One trick we use tape for is when you get a runner when spraying oil. Take a 8" piece of masking wrap it sticky side out around your fingers to make a circle. Now you blot the run, it will lift off some excess, rotate the tape and repeat until the right amount has been removed. Never blot the same spot on the tape twice. This can save you from having to change the texture with a brush and it's easy to do. It will not make it perfect but when texture is important this works to make the next days touch up look right.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Ole34 said:


> back in the day the cheap paints would always splatter and even then i would just rag it off but with todays premium paints thats not really an issue.. occasionaly you get a drop but ill just rag it off



So what if it was necessary to prime first. Say Coverstain or Bin, both of which are notorious for splattering. What roller nap would you use? 

I find microfiber rollers to be pretty resistant to splatter, but not perfect with all materials. 

Just to be clear, you don't have to tape base for splatter?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Cam't stand hearing this good paint don't spatter stuff. I used Regal, Use cashmere, don't matter, it spatters. 

I also can't stand dipping, rolling wiping off baseboard (yuck), dipping, rolling, wiping off baseboard (yuck), dipping, rolling, wiping off baseboard.

Or wiping off a whole baseboard at once, it sucks. I cover anything from getting spattered, thermostat, doorknobs, etc.

I worked with one guy that said he was so good he didn't splatter and he wanted to paint this whole room with all furnishings and he didn't want to cover this bed with expensive comforters, etc. I made him cover it with plastic because that would have been stupid to roll the ceiling and not cover nice furnishings.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I've had some luck with the newer paints and microfibers as far as not splattering. Seems like as soon as I started to count on that I would hit a dark color or something that would micro splatter. Very fine splatter, barely noticeable on base unless your paying attention. Bugs me though. 

Ole has a secret :ninja: non splattering roller technique, he's just not telling us


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> I've had some luck with the newer paints and microfibers as far as not splattering. Seems like as soon as I started to count on that I would hit a dark color or something that would micro splatter. Very fine splatter, barely noticeable on base unless your paying attention. Bugs me though.
> 
> Ole has a secret :ninja: non splattering roller technique, he's just not telling us


getting the roller damp with water before does not help anything but more paint splatter btw.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I use white/yellow, blue or green tape depending on the job. Thank you's! I want to thank the white/yellow tape for your performance on surfaces in a temporary temperature controlled environment. I'd like to thank the blue tape for sensitive surfaces, and green tape for the paint block technology. And God Bless America!


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## Scannell Painting (Sep 25, 2010)

ONLY time we use tape other than spraying is for carpet base. We do work for a company that the exec. offices have black carpet base & it shows lint up. Collosus rollers have very little if any spray.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Jmayspaint said:


> I've had some luck with the newer paints and microfibers as far as not splattering. Seems like as soon as I started to count on that I would hit a dark color or something that would micro splatter. Very fine splatter, barely noticeable on base unless your paying attention. Bugs me though.
> 
> Ole has a secret :ninja: non splattering roller technique, he's just not telling us


or he just has bad eyes


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

Ole34 said:


> back in the day the cheap paints would always splatter and even then i would just rag it off but with todays premium paints thats not really an issue.. occasionaly you get a drop but ill just rag it off


Doesn't matter what paint your using, what roller or nap, if you don't tape/cover the surface there will be sprinkle.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I'll tape the base if it's stained and not pollyed but I'll leave it a hair away so I can cut it in myself. If it has prolly I'll rag it off during clean up and never had a problem.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

I do cover baseboard heaters especially if they are painted. I often find it hard to get specs of paint off of them. But I do not cover baseboards.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Tape!


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## GSP82 (Feb 20, 2014)

I use duct tape and gorilla tape stuff really grabs


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Before moving forward, there needs to be an agreement with the correct terminology to describe the ramification of rolling next to unprotected surfaces.


1. Spatter


2. Sprinkles


3. Bespattered


4. Speckles


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

CApainter said:


> Before moving forward, there needs to be an agreement with the correct terminology to describe the ramification of rolling next to unprotected surfaces.
> 
> 
> 1. Spatter
> ...


I assume you were trolling, but here's the MPI definition:

SPATTER
Small particles or drips of liquid paint thrown or expelled by centrifugal force when applying paint with a roller.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

We tape the top of baseboards to avoid "spatter" - not as an edge to paint to. We also use it if changing colors at rounded corners. 
Use paper on sills, to cover blinds when up, the tops of mantles, etc. 
Completely wrap toilets in plastic - not so much to protect them but to protect us.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

Does anybody ever notice that tiny paint splatter or speckles dry almost instantly as the hit the ground. 

Do people stop every pass with the roller to wipe it before they dry? 


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I tape base to protect from spatters and drips. But I'm a good enough masker that when I tape, I also make straight lines and seal so I can cut in faster and leverage my masking tape to save me in brushing time. 

I'm a son of a autobody man.


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

We tape all trim. We tape ever so slightly onto the edge of the base and backfill with caulk prior to painting. Ensures laser sharp lines, eliminates visible gaps where trim meets wall, caulk prevents paint from getting behind tape during cut in, and it eliminates any concern about overspray.

Inch and a half blue tape, delicate surfaces if necessary. 

I'm amazed at the lack of tape for at a minimum protection from roller overspray. It baffles me that people think they are good enough to defy laws of physics and what not...just my 2 cents, for what its worth


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

MSJ Painting said:


> We tape all trim. We tape ever so slightly onto the edge of the base and backfill with caulk prior to painting. Ensures laser sharp lines, eliminates visible gaps where trim meets wall, caulk prevents paint from getting behind tape during cut in, and it eliminates any concern about *overspray*.
> 
> Inch and a half blue tape, delicate surfaces if necessary.
> 
> I'm amazed at the lack of tape for at a minimum protection from roller overspray. It baffles me that people think they are good enough to defy laws of physics and what not...just my 2 cents, for what its worth


This is unacceptable. If we can't have some continuity in this discussion, there is no need to continue.

*C'mon People!*


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Painter-Aaron said:


> Does anybody ever notice that tiny paint splatter or speckles dry almost instantly as the hit the ground.
> 
> Do people stop every pass with the roller to wipe it before they dry?
> 
> ...


I cover everything whenever humanly possible. I don't get paid to clean.

I have done my fair share of trying different techniques, but don't mess around with people's houses or belongings. I cover furnishings with plastic all around before I sand or prep too. I don't like to clean, and I don't like struggling. So I paint the easy way, use plastic, use drops, often floor paper, use paper and tape.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

TJ Paint said:


> I tape base to protect from spatters and drips. But I'm a good enough masker that when I tape, I also make straight lines and seal so I can cut in faster and leverage my masking tape to save me in brushing time.
> 
> I'm a son of a autobody man.


Exactly correct. Mask it right, mask it fast. Cut in fast. Each coat or prep step multiplies the benefit of taping.

How do some people not even tape, don't you get sanding/prep dust falling down before even painting? On repaints it's nice to have paper there to catch dust and direct it onto floor protection.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Thanks for the responses so far, very interesting. More and more lately I have been trying to use tape (when necessary) to its fullest potential, and I trying to implement some changes in the crew to increase production and reduce waste. 

With today's edge lock tapes it makes little sense to me to not take advantage of it in cases like taping base for splatter protection. 

When I see a guy cut in the base line twice before rolling, then tape the base for splatter (three trips around a room dealing with the baseboard) it seems incredibly wasteful. Why not just tape the base one time, and not worry about the line after that? 

The answer appears to be that a lot of painters have a distain for tape, and will use it only grudgingly when absolutely necessary or not at all and deal with the consequences instead (wiping splatter, etc.). Another factor is that it's not easy to make a perfect line even with modern tapes. It's takes practice and skill to do it consistently. I personally find it more challenging than cutting in. Of course, I've been cutting most of my life and only really been focusing on precise (non spray) taping for 4 or 5 years so I've had less practice. 

I'm speaking specifically about taping for hand tool application because that seems to require much more precision than taping for spraying.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

CApainter said:


> I have to cover miles of vinyl cove base with tape before rolling, but I get your point with the new paints. I would just hate to have to bend down to wipe off base boards. And wouldn't wiping screw up your paint job given that paint spatter has to be wiped immediately before it dries?


Me too. Miles and miles. I come up onto the wall.Just a few hairs. Bump it with the roller when I roll the walls. Pull it. And that's it. Usually the old color is close enuff to the new or to the base. Looks good.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

ridesarize said:


> *Cam't stand hearing this good paint don't spatter stuff. *I used Regal, Use cashmere, don't matter, it spatters.
> 
> I also can't stand dipping, rolling wiping off baseboard (yuck), dipping, rolling, wiping off baseboard (yuck), dipping, rolling, wiping off baseboard.
> 
> .




define ''spatter''...........for me, coverstain spatters. premium paint does not. theres a whole lot of room in between the 2 so i guess its all relative


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

you Painters are a bunch of control freaks !!


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Oden said:


> Me too. Miles and miles. I come up onto the wall.Just a few hairs. Bump it with the roller when I roll the walls. Pull it. And that's it. Usually the old color is close enuff to the new or to the base. Looks good.


This is why I like using the two inch tape. It covers all of the cove base, even when it droops like a baby's bottom lip.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

CApainter said:


> This is why I like using the two inch tape. It covers all of the cove base, even when it droops like a baby's bottom lip.


Me too 2". I dont stick though the whole 2 inches to the base. Really just the quarter or eight inch sticks to the wall and the top of the base and it makes a hood or whatever the rest of the tape. I Kimda like crease it into the wall and it bends to make the hood, then it overlap and lock the corners together. But Yeh. 2" is standard.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Has anyone mastered using the 3M exterior blue? I like it in a way, it does do well outside for extended periods and has better tack than regular blue, just drives me nuts curling in on itself when you tear it.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Has anyone mastered using the 3M exterior blue? I like it in a way, it does do well outside for extended periods and has better tack than regular blue, just drives me nuts curling in on itself when you tear it.



Dislike it.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Think I'll "mask" something this Halloween!:whistling2:


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Has anyone mastered using the 3M exterior blue? I like it in a way, it does do well outside for extended periods and has better tack than regular blue, just drives me nuts curling in on itself when you tear it.


Ditto... Ya the curling is annoying, but when its beneficial to leave the tape on a surface for a few days I like it.


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

CApainter said:


> This is why I like using the two inch tape. It covers all of the cove base, even when it droops like a baby's bottom lip.


I've always preferred 2 " better protection. Some guys I know will use smaller to save money, how much are you saving on a roll of tape ? :blink:


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

paintball head said:


> I've always preferred 2 " better protection. Some guys I know will use smaller to save money, how much are you saving on a roll of tape ? :blink:


I like the regular white tape. And the cheaper even the better IMO. For most everything. I have no problems using it. The blue and green and so on IMO is the wasted money. And heck. I don't even pay for the stuff. And I get the white.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

MSJ Painting said:


> We tape all trim. We tape ever so slightly onto the edge of the base and backfill with caulk prior to painting. Ensures laser sharp lines, eliminates visible gaps where trim meets wall, caulk prevents paint from getting behind tape during cut in, and it eliminates any concern about overspray.
> 
> Inch and a half blue tape, delicate surfaces if necessary.
> 
> I'm amazed at the lack of tape for at a minimum protection from roller overspray. It baffles me that people think they are good enough to defy laws of physics and what not...just my 2 cents, for what its worth


 


I was surprised no one else mentions tape and caulk. That is the only way I have found to get precise lines and it is fast.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

paintball head said:


> I've always preferred 2 " better protection. Some guys I know will use smaller to save money, how much are you saving on a roll of tape ? :blink:


I agree. For me, its one inch tape on the masking machine, and two inch for everything else. I find that the 1.5" tape is sort of a hybrid size that doesn't quite offer the dimensions for those certain occasions where you need width. And, isn't quite as malleable as the one inch. Bottom line, 1.5" is useless to me.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Funny... I've found the one inch is more than adequate to cover the top of baseboards. Never even considered using the two inch. To each his own.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

jacob33 said:


> I was surprised no one else mentions tape and caulk. That is the only way I have found to get precise lines and it is fast.


I tape & caulk.

..but I don't wanna argue about it for 3 days.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

RH said:


> Funny... I've found the one inch is more than adequate to cover the top of baseboards. Never even considered using the two inch. To each his own.


One of the reasons I like the two inch for base boards, is that it is less malleable then the one inch.


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

Steve Richards said:


> I tape & caulk.
> 
> ..but I don't wanna argue about it for 3 days.


What do you have to do with your time that is better than talking about taping trim? Well besides about anything else.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Steve Richards said:


> I tape & caulk.
> 
> ..but I don't wanna argue about it for 3 days.


Do you even have any sensation left in the tip of your forefinger, given the size of the callous you must have from caulking? And does it molt and grow a new callous? This is fascinating!


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

The cheap white tape is what I use as well. You have to be careful with some of the cheap white tape as sometimes it will just not pull off the roll evenly. Scotch 2020 is the best for me and when on sale for real cheap, I stock up.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I've been relying on tape more in the past few years than I used to. I like the speed and the lines I get. In response to the OP about taping the base on stained trim to catch splatter, I don't use it for that. I use cardboard cut straight about 12" to 18" wide and bridge it from the floor to the top of the base.


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

awesome topic...i was just thinking of taping...I've never done the caulk and tape thing? am I an idiot to ask for that magical technique? please!

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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

Exactoman said:


> awesome topic...i was just thinking of taping...I've never done the caulk and tape thing? am I an idiot to ask for that magical technique? please!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Tape and caulk is great because it fills any gaps between the trim and walls plus it also seals the tape so the paint doesn't bleed around.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

RH said:


> Funny... I've found the one inch is more than adequate to cover the top of baseboards. Never even considered using the two inch. To each his own.





CApainter said:


> One of the reasons I like the two inch for base boards, is that it is less malleable then the one inch.


The one inch you can't bump really with the roller. Too thin.for me it is

And Yeh. Assuming 'less mailable' means stiff. Lol I think me and CA make the hood. Bump it.

There is 2" and 1" and they don't have to make any other widths for me


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

so you tape onto the base...leave just a little room..1/32 inch...caulk the gap...paint all the way to edge of tape...pull up tape...presto! straight line..? 
so it's cool to let caulk dry right?

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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Oden said:


> The one inch you can't bump really with the roller. Too thin.for me it is
> 
> And Yeh. Assuming 'less mailable' means stiff. Lol I think me and CA make the hood. Bump it.
> 
> There is 2" and 1" and they don't have to make any other widths for me


Malleable??? Really? You guys are using hammers to put on the tape??


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

Exactoman said:


> so you tape onto the base...leave just a little room..1/32 inch...caulk the gap...paint all the way to edge of tape...pull up tape...presto! straight line..?
> so it's cool to let caulk dry right?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Exactly. Dont tape over the edge of the base, or the caulk will pull with the tape. Definitely want to let the caulk dry prior to painting, and you can slop paint all over the tape and still get a laser sharp line. It is important to pull the caulk really tight.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

MSJ Painting said:


> Exactly. Dont tape over the edge of the base, or the caulk will pull with the tape. Definitely want to let the caulk dry prior to painting, and you can slop paint all over the tape and still get a laser sharp line. It is important to pull the caulk really tight.



You paint the base first then the walls?.... Im confused here. I thought his tread was about taping off stained base


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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

It works on painted or stained base you just tape on the trim leaving a tiny space than caulk it wipe it clean that is key you do not want to much caulking or it can cause trouble when removing the tape. Once the caulk is dry you just slap paint on getting on the tape so its really fast. Once you pull the tape its a sharp line. Basically you are bringing the wall on to the trim and its a straight line. It looks great and is easy.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

jacob33 said:


> It works on painted or stained base you just tape on the trim leaving a tiny space than caulk it wipe it clean that is key you do not want to much caulking or it can cause trouble when removing the tape. Once the caulk is dry you just slap paint on getting on the tape so its really fast. Once you pull the tape its a sharp line. Basically you are bringing the wall on to the trim and its a straight line. It looks great and is easy.


*not getting involved*


(rpp)


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

Baseboards are so overrated


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Ole34 said:


> Baseboards are so overrated


What, they are beneath you?


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

I'm in!!!!! I should've done this on the job I'm on now...would've saved a ton of time. ..and these ppl love super lasers.

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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

Exactoman said:


> I'm in!!!!! I should've done this on the job I'm on now...would've saved a ton of time. ..and these ppl love super lasers.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using PaintTalk.com mobile app


 
Try it once you do you will never go back.


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## bbair (Nov 18, 2012)

I'm not telling my secret


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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

I guess I csn reverse it when painting base right?

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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

G/E makes a painters caulking $6-8.00 a tube. Great product. If the void between the base and wall is not too wide, apply a thin bead of caulk and paint right over top of it. Three ft. at a time or so. If you don't scuff the edge between the two surfaces with a sanding block first and clean it up it's a waste of time. A step that seems to have been missed in the posts. This is a DIY topic in my books.


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## paintball head (Mar 3, 2012)

What if someone said they could achieve a straight line on the base without the caulking technique? I've never found a need to add an extra step to achieve a straight line. I am not questioning the fact that caulking on the tape gets a straight line, but "its an extra step".


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## ejs (Nov 4, 2011)

Good point, only where necessary. Sometimes the line is true when I cut it but it shrinks. I mean to use the caulking to stop the laddering, a really fine bead. enough said.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Just an observation, I can never recall a thread ending after someone's declared, "Enough said.".


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

paintball head said:


> What if someone said they could achieve a straight line on the base without the caulking technique? I've never found a need to add an extra step to achieve a straight line. I am not questioning the fact that caulking on the tape gets a straight line, but "its an extra step".


Are u taping to avoid roller overspray? If so, the caulk takes an extra few seconds after taping. If not, u are probably getting paint on the trim. 

Aren't you filling visible gaps with caulk? How are you keeping the caulk off of stained base?


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

Exactoman said:


> I guess I csn reverse it when painting base right?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using PaintTalk.com mobile app


Just paint the base first...then tape before painting walls. These situations are usually better served with delicate surfaces tape


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

No tape. Why? Cause a rag is cheaper. (I can't wait for the repercussions.)


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

You all have noticed how I have kept out of this deeply troubling thread?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

chrisn said:


> You all have noticed how I have kept out of this deeply troubling thread?



It is deeply troubling, inside our community here anyway. Actually I was hoping to lure in some of the guys that use tape for everything to explain how that works for them.
I must admit to sharing the general distain for tape that seems prevalent among classically trained painters for a lot of my career. I have also wiped miles of baseboard (works just fine in a lot of cases btw), and cut in at times when it really didn't make any sense to do so. 

But things change. Our trade is changing. It's often said here that painters are working for rates similar to those charged 20 years ago. One would hope that the advances brought about by modern tools and techniques could offset this discrepancy. I know I am way more productive than I was even 10 years ago. Partially by embracing ways of doing things that I once considered "beneath" a Real Pro painter if only because they were outside the traditional cut and roll approach. If rates aren't going up, then being more and more efficient seems absolutely necessary.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

paintball head said:


> What if someone said they could achieve a straight line on the base without the caulking technique? I've never found a need to add an extra step to achieve a straight line. I am not questioning the fact that caulking on the tape gets a straight line, but "its an extra step".



Using caulk to seal the edge is similar to other techniques for sealing the edge like using the material already on the surface to be taped first. Being thicker in consistency than paint, caulk is less likely to bleed under the tape and can seal the edge and at the same time fill small cracks. 

My goal is to whenever possible use the tape by itself to make perfect lines. It can be done on most smooth surfaces, though its not always easy. The addition of caulk or other materials to seal the edge can make it more of a "sure thing" to get nice lines by widening the margin of error allowed during taping. It can also make taping more practical on irregular or textured surfaces. 

Frog Tape makes a sealer for use on textured surfaces, or just to provide extra bleed protection on any surface. 
http://frogtape.com/products/frogtape-textured-surface

I've experimented with some success using flat acrylic polyurethane to seal tape edges. And as I mentioned in the OP, just water can help seal the edges with some tapes. 

I'm on a quest to master the "art or taping". I really feel that it can improve overall efficiency in some cases, and besides after 20+ years of cutting everything in..it's getting kind of boring 

Thanks for the feed back and ideas.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Jmayspaint said:


> Using caulk to seal the edge is similar to other techniques for sealing the edge like using the material already on the surface to be taped first. Being thicker in consistency than paint, caulk is less likely to bleed under the tape and can seal the edge and at the same time fill small cracks.
> 
> My goal is to whenever possible use the tape by itself to make perfect lines. It can be done on most smooth surfaces, though its not always easy. The addition of caulk or other materials to seal the edge can make it more of a "sure thing" to get nice lines by widening the margin of error allowed during taping. It can also make taping more practical on irregular or textured surfaces.
> 
> ...


A matte acrylic gel medium (Liquitex or Golden) available from Michaels or online, will also seal tape nicely. Goes on white and dries clear, can be painted over in less than thirty minutes. I use it on heavily textured walls with bullnose edges when a color change is needed.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

RH, I like that approach for bullnose edges! When they were in vogue, we made up a scribing tool to draw a line at a consistent point on the curve and painted to that.

Is this just another trick so we no longer need those traditional brush skills???!! Doesn't that cheapen the trade??!! ;-)


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

I just slop paint all over the stained trim, and then scrape it off with a razor blade.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> I just slop paint all over the stained trim, and then scrape it off with a razor blade.


SR, you just don't do "subtle" do you?:whistling2:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Sorry

"Can you ask a bird not to sing?" ~Barney Fife


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

The problem with taping and caulking stained woodwork, is you need to come out (at least) a hair-width onto the wood.

Most don't even notice it, but last year I had a lady that I'd been painting for for a very long time ask me to "not bring the paint out onto her new cabinets like I did in her bathroom". I had to go look and see what she was talking about.

Sure enough, that tiny (but lazer strait) line down the side of her bathroom vanity had been bugging her ever since I did it.
I made a thread about it here, and some of you guys (I hope you remember who you were because I don't) helped me figure out an acceptable alternative for the gaps in between the new cabs and old, wavy paster walls and celings. 

Which was to "double tape". (tape, brown caulk deep areas, clear caulk where it was tight, re-tape, white caulk)..if that makes any sense.:blink:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> The problem with taping and caulking stained woodwork, is you need to come out (at least) a hair-width onto the wood.
> 
> Most don't even notice it, but last year I had a lady that I'd been painting for for a very long time ask me to "not bring the paint out onto her new cabinets like I did in her bathroom". I had to go look and see what she was talking about.
> 
> ...


IDK, sounds like a lot of work for an area the customer seemed not want caulked in the first place.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

RH said:


> IDK, sounds like a lot of work for an area the customer seemed not want caulked in the first place.


She didn't, but it had to be caulked.
Otherwise you'd have been able to see the old wall color in the larger gaps, and paint would have "bridged" onto the cabs in the smaller ones.

It's a little hard to explain, and now I'm starting to wish I'd have listened to the voice in my head telling me to stay outta this thread.

Here it is..http://www.painttalk.com/f6/tape-caulk-new-cabinets-25701/

ReNt and Damon were the most help, but the OP of this thread raised his ol' ugly head in there a couple times too.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

With caulk in your hand, everything becomes a crack.
Just be smart and tape it up when it's questionable.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Well, I have to admit, I used to tape off all trim that was not being re painted. Now, I have become good enough with the brush to only tape off baseboards. I have never seen ANY paint that did not get on them when rolling the walls( and lots of other places where it was not supposed to be)


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

chrisn said:


> Well, I have to admit, I used to tape off all trim that was not being re painted. Now, I have become good enough with the brush to only tape off baseboards. I have never seen ANY paint that did not get on them when rolling the walls( and lots of other places where it was not supposed to be)


Chrisn, somebody has hacked into your PT account! They logged on in the middle of the day and has posted replies with multiple complete sentences! Not to mention, some of the replies are non-sarcastic!

Are you OK?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Gough said:


> Chrisn, somebody has hacked into your PT account! They logged on in the middle of the day and has posted replies with multiple complete sentences! Not to mention, some of the replies are non-sarcastic!
> 
> Are you OK?


middle of the day? it was 6 pm here, as to being OK, that's a crap shoot


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

This is a smoke damage job. One coat Bin, two coats Aura matte. In this area of the house the trim is not being painted.
I decided to try an experiment. Rather than cut in to the trim and crown three times, we taped it once. Most of the edging is being done with 4" microfiber rollers. No need for a brush at all in most places. That's the real time saver as a mini roller transfers 4-5 times as much paint to the surface an a brush and spreads it faster and more evenly. 

As far as I can remember, this is the first time I have used tape to make all lines for regular painting. So far I really like the results, and I certainly like the labor savings that doing it this way creates. On the ceilings one trip around the room to tape the crown and that's it, all the painting can be done from the floor. 

Another thing I'm liking about it is the uniformity of texture and coverage that comes from using mini rollers to edge (no brush strokes at all)


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Jmays, you're brave making such a radical post. Some guys may try to have you stripped of your PPOTM crown. ;-). They should relax, it's just another tool in the arsenal. Sometimes it gives us better results faster, sometimes it doesn't.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Some painters wear whites better then others...what?:blink: what did I say?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

On a side note, using Aura over a full Bin prime makes it so much more user friendly to apply. It almost acts like regular paint
Open time is greatly improved and it seems to flow out better.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I'd like to hear some tips from taping pros regarding the application process. What are you techniques for getting it on there fast and straight? I have the (TA20?) hand masker but it does not apply the tape close enough to the edge IMO.


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## MSJ Painting (Jan 27, 2013)

804 Paint said:


> I'd like to hear some tips from taping pros regarding the application process. What are you techniques for getting it on there fast and straight? I have the (TA20?) hand masker but it does not apply the tape close enough to the edge IMO.


Practice practice practice...i just do it all by hand...i have gotten pretty quick


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Biggest mistake I see folks do when taping:


-Not keeping the tape parallel to the line when pulling out more tape from the roll, (which leads to creasing the tape).

-Pulling tape too tight, which doesn't leave enough slack in the tape to contour to dips, depressions, etc., (causing bleed-thru due to lack of thorough adhesion).

-Pulling too much tape from the roll before you tack it, (everyone here knows what happens when you do that).

-Tearing an arms-length of tape off roll in the middle of a continuous run, (which is not only a slow method, but also risks having the contrast line show the start/stop/overlap).

JMO. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

RH said:


> Completely wrap toilets in plastic - not so much to protect them but to protect us.


30+ years and still learning new stuff. I never thought about covering with plastic  Always threw a dropcloth over them. Suddenly, I'm wanting to throw away all my interior dropcloths. 



MSJ Painting said:


> We tape all trim. We tape ever so slightly onto the edge of the base and backfill with caulk prior to painting. Ensures laser sharp lines, eliminates visible gaps where trim meets wall, caulk prevents paint from getting behind tape during cut in, and it eliminates any concern about overspray.
> 
> Inch and a half blue tape, delicate surfaces if necessary.
> 
> I'm amazed at the lack of tape for at a minimum protection from roller overspray. It baffles me that people think they are good enough to defy laws of physics and what not...just my 2 cents, for what its worth





jacob33 said:


> I was surprised no one else mentions tape and caulk. That is the only way I have found to get precise lines and it is fast.


Ditto. Same here :thumbsup:


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> This is a smoke damage job. One coat Bin, two coats Aura matte. In this area of the house the trim is not being painted.
> I decided to try an experiment. Rather than cut in to the trim and crown three times, we taped it once. Most of the edging is being done with 4" microfiber rollers. No need for a brush at all in most places. That's the real time saver as a mini roller transfers 4-5 times as much paint to the surface an a brush and spreads it faster and more evenly.
> 
> As far as I can remember, this is the first time I have used tape to make all lines for regular painting. So far I really like the results, and I certainly like the labor savings that doing it this way creates. On the ceilings one trip around the room to tape the crown and that's it, all the painting can be done from the floor.
> ...


Jay, you finally are coming around. I have been talking about that method for a while now, and earlier you had concluded still that most painters don't tape, but most that I know do it just you like pictured. We've been doing that for years up here in seattle area. Gives great results, and of course there are areas we opt to not do that. Good pics man


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Biggest mistake I see folks do when taping:
> 
> 
> -Not keeping the tape parallel to the line when pulling out more tape from the roll, (which leads to creasing the tape).
> ...


Add in there NOT running a nice 1.5" putty knife along the tape to precisely push it down tight and seal. Should be nice and easy not a struggle.


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## bbair (Nov 18, 2012)

I can tape faster than I can cut, and then once it's taped, your cuts fly. I only free hand ceilings on new work and I cheat that cut slightly onto the ceiling. Step back and everything looks as straight, damn near perfect. Actually, a good caulk bead is pretty important if you want perfect lines without bleeders. I love 1" green frog tape, best ever.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

How does you're "helper " get away with not a speck of paint on her hand??


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

chrisn said:


> How does you're "helper " get away with not a speck of paint on her hand??



Hmm, yeah good point. She must not be working hard enough, I'll have to crack the whip 

Actually though we use microfiber roller covers, and with the Aura there is hardly any splatter at all. I still can't keep my hands (or anything else on my body) free of paint though.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Well, after reading all (or most of) the post, I have decided that I am going to try taping baseboards. My only question is that for those that to it, do you paint then tape or paint the walls and then paint the baseboard. Seems like the first would be the most efficient, but my concern is that the paint, which is not fully cured, will come off with the tape if I do it this way. Seems like most paint all of the trim except for the baseboards, then paint the walls, and finally the basebords.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

If you can paint the baseboards the day before, they are fine the next day for taping off so you can paint the walls. Of course, use the blue or green tape for sensitive surfaces. I know a lot of painters paint the baseboards after the walls are done but this is only because they have zero confidence in being able to tape off trim without getting wall paint bleeding under the tape. All you have to do is blade down the back edge of that tape with a flex putty knife and no paint is getting behind there. Paint all trim, tape baseboards, paint walls, pull tape, go home.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I don't normally tape baseboards that are getting painted. Unless the trim is being sprayed then I will spray the base with the rest of the trim and tape it off. Usually if the base is being painted, it seems easier to just do it last.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

Sorry, but how can doing the baseboard last possibly be easier? What if the walls are deep red or some other dark color? You are saying it's easier to get down on your hands and knees and cut in a white baseboard to a dark wall by hand after the walls are finished? It takes very little time to tape off the baseboards before painting the walls. I'm sure most of us can tape off baseboards in an average size bedroom in under two minutes. How long does it take to cut in painted baseboards to a finished wall in an average bedroom? 10 minutes? 15 minutes? And it doesn't even look as good when you are done.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Carl said:


> You are saying it's easier to get down on your hands and knees and cut in a white baseboard to a dark wall by hand after the walls are finished?




It seems to be for me in most cases yeah. I feel I can get a better line trimming the base to the wall than vice versa. Idk though, I'm really bored with cutting in these days. Might try it your way next time.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I usually look at it In terms of how many trips around the room also. Doing the base last you only make one trip around for it (or two if two coats). When you do the walls no need to cut sharp to the base, just make the finish line while painting the base. The top lip on most baseboards is horizontal allowing you to put a thick coat on it that can cover all but the darkest of colors in one coat. 

But like I said, I'm really getting into the challenge of taping so I can see experimenting more with doing the base first. Heck, I'm in a master suite today and tomorrow. Might try it now.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Jmayspaint said:


> Hmm, yeah good point. She must not be working hard enough, I'll have to crack the whip
> 
> Actually though we use microfiber roller covers, and with the Aura there is hardly any splatter at all. I still can't keep my hands (or anything else on my body) free of paint though.[/QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Bad tape 









I noticed that the bottom three stairs got taped with multi-surface instead of delicate. Saw it right after it happened, and decided to risk it rather than pull it right then and replacing with delicate. Mistake.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

You guys are beginning to scare me. That looks pretty good J. What is the mistake I'm supposed to notice


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> This is a smoke damage job. One coat Bin, two coats Aura matte. In this area of the house the trim is not being painted.
> I decided to try an experiment. Rather than cut in to the trim and crown three times, we taped it once. Most of the edging is being done with 4" microfiber rollers. No need for a brush at all in most places. That's the real time saver as a mini roller transfers 4-5 times as much paint to the surface an a brush and spreads it faster and more evenly.
> 
> As far as I can remember, this is the first time I have used tape to make all lines for regular painting. So far I really like the results, and I certainly like the labor savings that doing it this way creates. On the ceilings one trip around the room to tape the crown and that's it, all the painting can be done from the floor.
> ...


I've always struggled taping the bottom edge of the crown, any tips of how to achieve a straight line and good adhesion to such a thin surface (working upside down)?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

CApainter said:


> You guys are beginning to scare me. That looks pretty good J. What is the mistake I'm supposed to notice



Look again. The lighter strip of wood about two inches wide on the riser is discolored. The finish was damaged to an extent. Happened around a newel post too. Looks worse in person I guess. Restor-a-finish helped a little, but were going to have to refinish the bottom section of the stairs.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Look again. The lighter strip of wood about two inches wide on the riser is discolored. The finish was damaged to an extent. Happened around a newel post too. Looks worse in person I guess. Restor-a-finish helped a little, but were going to have to refinish the bottom section of the stairs.



Shhh happens. The important part is the fact that you're taking care of it like a true pro. Lotta guys woulda called it good after wiping it down with spit. 


Stelzer Painting Inc.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Speaking of tape, I bought( at great expense) a couple rolls of this last week and used it Monday to tape off baseboard. This crap just would not stick, neither roll. I tossed it and went back to plain old masking tape and all was well
PS, it would stick to flat door frames but not the little lip on the base, and no, there was no contamination and it was painted
ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape Multi-Surface with Advanced Edge-Lock™ Paint Line Protector 2093EL


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Gwarel said:


> I've always struggled taping the bottom edge of the crown, any tips of how to achieve a straight line and good adhesion to such a thin surface (working upside down)?



It's a PITA sometimes for sure, especially I'm tight areas like a small bathroom. 
Whenever I can I like to set up benches for working crown. We're not taping in this room, but same set up. 








Work off the roll as much as possible an keep the tape tight and straight. The benches let you do longer runs and that helps keep the line uniform. 
I've noticed the crown in and near bathrooms often has contaminates that can prevent tape adhesion unless you clean them off first.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

For me the toughest line to get straight is the line at the crown, especially with a dark wall color. The caulk is usually rounded off and inconsistent. Free hand is how I usually do it, and I have to go over it a couple of times to fix what doesn't look right to me. I have finished the wall first and taped my line on the wall, finishing the bottom edge of the crown to the tape.


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## bbair (Nov 18, 2012)

Oh, and I always make my goal to use one piece of tape per wall rather than a half-dozen pieces. And in the corners take your blade, hold it tight against the next wall over the base and tape, snap it off real quick and that will leave a perfectly straight/square end that meets the next wall. I really like that trick.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

For those of you that tape and then caulk- Do you just caulk, let the caulking dry, paint, and then pull the tape when you are finished? I'm going to try it on an interior, since I never have, and want to make sure I do it correctly.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Hines Painting said:


> For those of you that tape and then caulk- Do you just caulk, let the caulking dry, paint, and then pull the tape when you are finished? I'm going to try it on an interior, since I never have, and want to make sure I do it correctly.


 The somewhat tricky part to me is not leaving the bead out on the tape too much. You want the bead to just barely go over the tape, otherwise when you pull it the bead will tear unevenly. I use a small bead and wipe it pretty hard. The part of the bead right next to the tape should be a thin smear so it tears evenly.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

For many years I have taught, mask off, caulk with clear acrylic latex (Dap), very thin bead then finger off all excess and continually wipe finger with wet rag. This creates invisible barrier. Paint and then pull tape. Best results when paint is dry. Pull straight. Never pull at an angle. Usually results are perfect straight lines.


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