# Never have done this before



## johnny949 (Apr 13, 2012)

Hi
We have a customer who wants her "bricks sealed." Her driveway, porch area and her backyard around her pool. They all look like like the photo I provided. 
I was wondering if anyone suggests a specific material to use or has a fool proof method they wouldn't mind sharing. She wants us to do this proper and she has the budget for it yippeee.

Thanks for the help


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Here's a link to a thread I posted last week. This process may be helpful and others will likely chime in with suggestions as well.

http://www.painttalk.com/f4/another-service-offer-your-clients-20247/


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

I'm certainly no expert but isn't an acid etch overkill? most of the guys who do this kind of work only pressure wash (with whirl-away machine) and then seal it the next day.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

We have done many concrete pavers, driveways etc with sealer. The important part is getting it washed down and clean before applying sealer. A rotawash pressure cleaner run over the area at least twice should do the job. 

I don't actually like doing this because each paver or batch of concrete absorbes the sealer at different rates. I had one driveway go 15l or about 4 gallons over my estimate on material usage. That was a $150 blow out on a $600 job.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Repaintpro said:


> We have done many concrete pavers, driveways etc with sealer. The important part is getting it washed down and clean before applying sealer. A rotawash pressure cleaner run over the area at least twice should do the job.
> 
> I don't actually like doing this because each paver or batch of concrete absorbes the sealer at different rates. I had one driveway go 15l or about 4 gallons over my estimate on material usage. That was a $150 blow out on a $600 job.


I don't understand why you would have to pay for the extra material cost. I've heard this before from painters, about under estimating materials and getting stuck with the bill because they felt responsible some how. As a homeowner, I would feel absolutely obligated to pay in full for what ever materials it took to complete a job on my house, considering it was a legit underestimation.

One concern I would have though, is how did you underestimate roughly 1200 sf of area? It must have absorbed into the pavers way more then what the product spec sheet determined, or you missed a second coat calculation?


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

CApainter said:


> I don't understand why you would have to pay for the extra material cost. I've heard this before from painters, about under estimating materials and getting stuck with the bill because they felt responsible some how. As a homeowner, I would feel absolutely obligated to pay in full for what ever materials it took to complete a job on my house, considering it was a legit underestimation.
> 
> One concern I would have though, is how did you underestimate roughly 1200 sf of area? It must have absorbed into the pavers way more then what the product spec sheet determined, or you missed a second coat calculation?


It was an exposed ageragate driveway. Over here that is when the drive is poured the top layer of concrete is washed away to expose the pebbles in the concrete. Some guys wash out more concrete than others leaving more area to coat. This one I was out by a lot!

Now how I address the materials charge............As far as I am concerned I dont give owners estimates. I give them a quote to complete the job they have contracted me to do. I am a professional painter that should know my labor content and material usage. If I make a blunder on my maths it is not the owners fault. Items such as wallpaper removal etc I will give an hourly rate to do as you have many variables.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Repaintpro said:


> It was an exposed ageragate driveway. Over here that is when the drive is poured the top layer of concrete is washed away to expose the pebbles in the concrete. Some guys wash out more concrete than others leaving more area to coat. This one I was out by a lot!
> 
> Now how I address the materials charge............As far as I am concerned I dont give owners estimates. I give them a quote to complete the job they have contracted me to do. I am a professional painter that should know my labor content and material usage. If I make a blunder on my maths it is not the owners fault. Items such as wallpaper removal etc I will give an hourly rate to do as you have many variables.


That makes sense to me now. Still, as a homeowner, I wouldn't expect you to pick up the tab for the extra materials given your reasonable explanation of the overexposed aggregate. I would rather a contractor leave my home with a sense of satisfaction rather then feeling he got burned or burned himself. $150 isn't too much. Maybe this is why I always give a tip. 

The only time I didn't give a tip was when a concrete contractor, OMS, poured a pad at my house without any help finishing. I soon found myself on my hands and knees floating out the rapidly drying concrete. I think he was pretty embarrased because he didn't even thank me as I recall.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

CApainter said:


> That makes sense to me now. Still, as a homeowner, I wouldn't expect you to pick up the tab for the extra materials given your reasonable explanation of the overexposed aggregate. I would rather a contractor leave my home with a sense of satisfaction rather then feeling he got burned or burned himself. $150 isn't too much. Maybe this is why I always give a tip.
> 
> The only time I didn't give a tip was when a concrete contractor, OMS, poured a pad at my house without any help finishing. I soon found myself on my hands and knees floating out the rapidly drying concrete. I think he was pretty embarrased because he didn't even thank me as I recall.


Ouch, concrete and painters don't mix. :no: That would of been a horrific experience!


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

I do a bunch of these. I've had good success with laying down 3% bleach (which would be household bleach mixed 50/50 with water) followed by running a surface cleaner. If they sit in sand base, you'd have to factor sweeping in new sand before sealing. I have used a product called Seal N' Lock. Washed 1500 s.f in the morning, broomed off standing water, went to lunch, came back and sealed same day (can't do that with a solvent based). I get $1.50 s.f up here. We spray down two light coats and use an 18" truck brush to level.


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## Custom Brush Co. (Jan 26, 2011)

I've used Krud Kutter cleaner/degreaser & got amazing results with those red bricks. Using a garden sprayer we apply full strength in cool temps so it doesn't evaporate too fast. Then you rinse them with a pressure washer after they appear clean.

Then we simply apply a water based concrete clear coat. On exposed aggregate estimate at 100 square feet per gallon. Usually doing in the same day. We cardboard sheilds to keep off most areas & occasional masking when absolutely necessary.

The weather makes concrete etched naturally, it's the smooth concrete, especially un weathered that absolutely needs etched. Using green etchers usually work just fine.

Usually goes for about $1.50 a square foot.


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