# Removing stubborn wallpaper



## Underdog

I saw this video a few days ago:





 
I don't know how difficult the wallpaper really was but I do know my example is legitimate for showing my technique.

Pic #1

Figure out if the vinyl will strip on its own. You have to determine which direction removes it the easiest. This example is from 10:00 to 4:00.

Pic #2 

Shows top layer removed

Pic #3

Float solid, note the bubbling within red circles. If wallpaper can come off it should come off.

Pic #4

Pull off wallpaper. This leaves a small amount of lining that wasn't able to get wet. Don't worry about it yet.










Pic #6

Wet the remaining layer scrape off with broad knife.

Pic #7

Bottom section removed.











Pic #8

This is not a solid vinyl. This is super annoying to remove.

Pic #9

Float solid.

Pic #10,11,12

This can be removed by pulling in any direction. Pull at 45 to 20 degree angle to decrease amount of sheetrock damage.

Pic #13

There were so many problems with the valance and holes and such I just floated the room solid.


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## daArch

underdog,

correct me if i'm wrong. You float the paper with JC, allow it to absorb the moisture and then strip paper with JC on top?

I assume you are not breaking the surface of the paper to allow it to absorb moisture? (I like using 36 grit in a palm sander to do this)

Was it paper backed vinyl, vinyl coated paper, or acrylic coated paper?

Any sealer on the wall? or just raw rock?

I've seen people apply 880 to difficult to strip paper and then let it "wetout" by putting thin plastic drops over it to prevent drying.


Never seen what I think I see you are doing. How long does it take before you being able to pull the paper off the wall ?


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## ProWallGuy

I see the video posted above was put on youtube by the owner of walwik. Makes it so much more believable.


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## kdpaint

I've had wallpaper come off that easily a few times....out of many, and I'm pretty good at paper removal. Video is bs.


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## daArch

ProWallGuy said:


> I see the video posted above was put on youtube by the owner of walwik. `


well, then I definitely WILL NOT watch it


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## ProWallGuy

daArch said:


> well, then I definitely WILL NOT watch it


Not only should you watch it, I DARE ya to comment on it. :yes:


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## kdpaint

I love how psyched they are in the video. It's therapeutic!


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## Underdog

daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> correct me if i'm wrong. You float the paper with JC, allow it to absorb the moisture and then strip paper with JC on top?


 
True dat.




daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> I assume you are not breaking the surface of the paper to allow it to absorb moisture? (I like using 36 grit in a palm sander to do this)


 
No scoring at all. What happens is the condensation permeates behind the wallpaper. I HATE Paper Tigers although I have scored wallpaper with sandpaper to some success before, under certain conditions. I think experience tells me when.




daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> Was it paper backed vinyl, vinyl coated paper, or acrylic coated paper?


 
Vinyl coated. You can tell if you recognize what happens in the picture when you try to peel it dry. (The stripe)




daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> Any sealer on the wall? or just raw rock?


 
No sealer on the wall at all. The sheetrock is rather soft when the paper is peeled off.




daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> I've seen people apply 880 to difficult to strip paper and then let it "wetout" by putting thin plastic drops over it to prevent drying.


 
I've only heard about this recently after 40 years of hanging. Imagine that. I guess the principle would be similar.



daArch said:


> underdog,
> 
> Never seen what I think I see you are doing. How long does it take before you being able to pull the paper off the wall ?


By the time you float around the room it's ready. Just don't let the joint compound turn white.


:cowboy:


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## Underdog

ProWallGuy said:


> I see the video posted above was put on youtube by the owner of walwik. Makes it so much more believable.


 



kdpaint said:


> I've had wallpaper come off that easily a few times....out of many, and I'm pretty good at paper removal. Video is bs.


 


daArch said:


> well, then I definitely WILL NOT watch it


 


kdpaint said:


> I love how psyched they are in the video. It's therapeutic!


+1..


:cowboy:


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## Underdog

Oh yeah, and as an aside, if the wallpaper is conformed to the surface and cannot be removed, you are well on the way to resurfacing the wall.

You can tell it by if there are no bubbles and no chance for removal. I like this option for when I prepare walls for paint or texture and paint especially.


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## chrisn

I started to watch it until he said "GLUE":furious:


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## daArch

Underdog,

thanks for the new tool for my bag of tricks.

I'm even thinking of a tweak. Mixing 880 WITH the mud. Thought being that it would stay wetter longer. 

And your method also good for stripping paper off a liner without harming liner. The aforementioned 880 with plastic is great for that. 

As you may or may not know, the Berkshire Chapt is having their annual "March Madness" workshop in a few weeks. I will pass your idea on. (I hear a few folks from TX are showing up).


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## Underdog

chrisn said:


> I started to watch it until he said "GLUE":furious:


 

It's the same in S. Texas. Funny how universally offensive that is.




daArch said:


> Underdog,
> 
> thanks for the new tool for my bag of tricks.
> 
> I'm even thinking of a tweak. Mixing 880 WITH the mud. Thought being that it would stay wetter longer.
> 
> And your method also good for stripping paper off a liner without harming liner. The aforementioned 880 with plastic is great for that.
> 
> As you may or may not know, the Berkshire Chapt is having their annual "March Madness" workshop in a few weeks. I will pass your idea on. (I hear a few folks from TX are showing up).


Glad to pass it on. I appreciate you ellaborating on it.

Wish I could come up there for March Madness. I have a son in the Coast Guard in Rhode Island.


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## Paradigmzz

fton another brother in Texas, noyhing gets sealed here prior to wallpaper installation. Underdog, I spun Bills (DaArch) head in circles when i told him i will oil prime and skim seams, caulk edges down and retexture wallpaper in the right circumstances. 

Glad to hear another spin on it.


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## Underdog

Paradigmzz said:


> from another brother in Texas, nothing gets sealed here prior to wallpaper installation. Underdog, I spun Bills (DaArch) head in circles when i told him i will oil prime and skim seams, caulk edges down and retexture wallpaper in the right circumstances.
> 
> Glad to hear another spin on it.


You're preachin' to the choir here about sealing the walls in Texas.

Sometimes I have to do some salesmanship, but when they see how perfect and pristine the walls are, they relent every time.

A lot of times they aren't around when I start and they can't tell when they get home. They think it was removed, I just tell them that it all wouldn't come off.


:cowboy:


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## daArch

Paradigmzz said:


> fton another brother in Texas, noyhing gets sealed here prior to wallpaper installation. Underdog, I spun Bills (DaArch) head in circles when i told him i will oil prime and skim seams, caulk edges down and retexture wallpaper in the right circumstances.
> 
> Glad to hear another spin on it.


Para,

I hope you are encouraged that there is a light at the end of the tunnel when a fellow Texan is as adverse to painting over wallcovering as I am. I am SOOOO happy, after hearing how challenging Texas walls are, that someone is refusing to throw in the towel.

I think together we all are going to beat this malady you guys are "blessed" with.

:thumbup:


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## Underdog

Hey Bill, can I call you Bill? You made me laugh.


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## RH

Underdog said:


> Hey Bill, can I call you Bill? You made me laugh.


No. He will require "Mr. daArch" until you have 750 posts. *Then* you may call him "Bill" *if* he consents. 

I won't post what most of us call him - at least behind his back. :whistling2:


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## Scotiadawg

Underdog said:


> Hey Bill, can I call you Bill? You made me laugh.


yeah that old bugger makes everybody laugh:thumbsup: at him:whistling2:


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## daArch

Underdog,

yes. call me anything you like, except the one name I don't care for

BTW I am here for entertainment value only. 

And, pay no attention to those voices behind the screen, or the ones in my head.


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## Paradigmzz

daArch said:


> Para,
> 
> I hope you are encouraged that there is a light at the end of the tunnel when a fellow Texan is as adverse to painting over wallcovering as I am. I am SOOOO happy, after hearing how challenging Texas walls are, that someone is refusing to throw in the towel.
> 
> I think together we all are going to beat this malady you guys are "blessed" with.
> 
> :thumbup:


Ask him what his closing ratio (ie percentage of. wallpaper he actually pulls versus leaves intact) is around here. i try my damnedest to remove it, but sometimes the damage created by pulling it outweighs leaving it intact and skimming the walls. 

Rock paper shreds with enough moisture.


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## Underdog

Paradigmzz said:


> Ask him what his closing ratio (ie percentage of. wallpaper he actually pulls versus leaves intact) is around here. i try my damnedest to remove it, but sometimes the damage created by pulling it outweighs leaving it intact and skimming the walls.
> 
> Rock paper shreds with enough moisture.


I dread pulling the paper off of sheetrock and the multiple steps that follow.
I've never had a problem talking people into going over a secure wall.

I must have jinxed myself because today I have multiple borders stuck on with that Elmer's type adhesive. 
They should ban border adhesive along with the Paper Tiger. Vinyl over vinyl is just fine. 

Yes I have a strong opinion about something... the Paper Tiger. Adds work as far as I'm concerned.
I hadn't done a search yet though. Is there already a hate thread about the Paper Tiger?


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## daArch

Underdog,

our friend Mike Zekich USED to have a Safe and Simple for border adhesive, but he stopped making it.

He told me that one might as well try fabric softener.


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## Red Truck

Awesome thread. Gotta try the float :thumbsup:


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## Paradigmzz

Presto chango, goodbye wallpaper...


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## Underdog

Paradigmzz said:


> Presto chango, goodbye wallpaper...


It looks great but you weren't clear. 
Was the wallpaper removed? Or did you go over it?


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## Paradigmzz

Underdog said:


> It looks great but you weren't clear.
> Was the wallpaper removed? Or did you go over it?


sorry, I thought. you could tell by first pic. I attempted to remove, and it wasnt worth the effort. see the edges at crown and wainscotting, thats wallpaper underneath skim.


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## daArch

Paradigmzz said:


> sorry, I thought. you could tell by first pic. I attempted to remove, and it wasnt worth the effort. see the edges at crown and wainscotting, thats wallpaper underneath skim.


remind me never ever to THINK about working Texas.

Full of land mines.


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## mudbone

Paradigmzz said:


> sorry, I thought. you could tell by first pic. I attempted to remove, and it wasnt worth the effort. see the edges at crown and wainscotting, thats wallpaper underneath skim.


 Gardzed first?


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## Paradigmzz

oil prime. just what I had handy.  if you notice in the pic, i just rolled the prime prior to mud, i never cut in . i did try to remove, 5 manhours later and a shredded patch about 12 sq. ft big, i think oil priming was a formality. That paper was nazi glued on the wall.


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## Underdog

Paradigmzz said:


> sorry, I thought. you could tell by first pic. I attempted to remove, and it wasnt worth the effort. see the edges at crown and wainscotting, thats wallpaper underneath skim.


I shoulda seen, I was lazy I guess. The lighting kinda made it look mottled and that's how it looks just before I strip it.


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## Underdog

daArch said:


> remind me never ever to THINK about working Texas.
> 
> Full of land mines.


They're called "cow chips"


:cowboy:


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## Paradigmzz

Underdog said:


> I shoulda seen, I was lazy I guess. The lighting kinda made it look mottled and that's how it looks just before I strip it.


faux venitian plaster for mudwork and a glaze on final pic. hence mottled.


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## Underdog

Paradigmzz said:


> faux venitian plaster for mudwork and a glaze on final pic. hence mottled.


No no no not that picture, that looks great.
The one before it with the chandelier shining on it funny.


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## chrisn

Paradigmzz said:


> oil prime. just what I had handy.  if you notice in the pic, i just rolled the prime prior to mud, i never cut in . i did try to remove, 5 manhours later and a shredded patch about 12 sq. ft big, i think oil priming was a formality. That paper was nazi glued on the wall.[/QUOTE]


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## Paradigmzz

chrisn said:


> Paradigmzz said:
> 
> 
> 
> oil prime. just what I had handy.  if you notice in the pic, i just rolled the prime prior to mud, i never cut in . i did try to remove, 5 manhours later and a shredded patch about 12 sq. ft big, i think oil priming was a formality. That paper was nazi glued on the wall.[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> id use the word adhesive but glue would be more appropriate. With no seal coat on raw drywall, and more than. likely the wrong type of paste for the job, this wallpaper wasnt budging. The word glue was intended.
> 
> Good morning btw, Chris.
Click to expand...


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## daArch

I thought GLUE was appropriate, especially preceded by that nasty nefarious N word.


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## chrisn

daArch said:


> I thought GLUE was appropriate, especially preceded by that nasty nefarious N word.


 so did I, that was the reason for the


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## mudbone

Underdog said:


> I shoulda seen, I was lazy I guess. The lighting kinda made it look mottled and that's how it looks just before I strip it.


 Remottled:whistling2:


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## chrisn

mudbone said:


> Remottled:whistling2:


 :icon_cry:


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## Windmilldecor

*Removing stubborn paper*

I usually find that these products are no good and that the downy fabric softener works best ,just take your time and it will come down. Been hanging and removing wallpaper for 40 years and find that works best


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## daArch

I think I musta tried most every wallpaper stripping solution suggested through the years. I too have been dealing with removals for 40 odd years. 

fabric softener, IMHO, was not as easy to rinse off as other products. 

next time I have VOV or Border adhesive, I will try fabric softener as per Mr Zekich's suggestion.


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## Scotiadawg

daArch said:


> I think I musta tried most every wallpaper stripping solution suggested through the years. I too have been dealing with removals for 40 odd years.
> 
> fabric softener, IMHO, was not as easy to rinse off as other products.
> 
> next time I have VOV or Border adhesive, I will try fabric softener as per Mr Zekich's suggestion.


I've always used fabric softner, tried other commercial removers but they didn't do one bit better than the FS.:blink:


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## daArch

Scotiadawg said:


> I've always used fabric softner, tried other commercial removers but they didn't do one bit better than the FS.:blink:


How's it for rinsing ? vs Safe and Simple

Many products re-wet paste, even dish soap. But I look at the whole process.


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## Scotiadawg

daArch said:


> How's it for rinsing ? vs Safe and Simple
> 
> Many products re-wet paste, even dish soap. But I look at the whole process.


That can be a problem if you over-do the softner - gotta admit:yes:. First time I used it I dumped a liter of FS in 3 Liter pail of warm water:blink: oops, that was a slimey mess to get cleaned up. . A little dab il do ya !


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## Underdog

mudbone said:


> Remottled:whistling2:


mot·tle(m







l) 
_tr.v._ *mot·tled*, *mot·tling*, *mot·tles* To mark with spots or blotches of different shades or colors.

_n._ *1. *A spot or blotch of color.
*2. *A variegated pattern, as on marble.



"You keep using that word."




 

In fact I don't think 'remottled' is a word.
Am I missing a private joke?


:cowboy:


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## caulktheline

mudbone is a PT pun bandit, a PT pundit if you will.


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## Scotiadawg

Underdog said:


> mot·tle(m
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> l)
> _tr.v._ *mot·tled*, *mot·tling*, *mot·tles* To mark with spots or blotches of different shades or colors.
> 
> _n._ *1. *A spot or blotch of color.
> *2. *A variegated pattern, as on marble.
> 
> 
> 
> "You keep using that word."
> You keep using that word. - YouTube
> 
> 
> In fact I don't think 'remottled' is a word.
> Am I missing a private joke?
> 
> 
> :cowboy:


Looks like we got us another ChrisN:whistling2:


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## Underdog

Windmilldecor said:


> I usually find that these products are no good and that the downy fabric softener works best ,just take your time and it will come down. Been hanging and removing wallpaper for 40 years and find that works best


Dang... a whole 'nother page I didn't see it when I above posted.

My question about fabric softener would be...
When some strippers dry out, they become hardened and are difficult to reactivate. Does FS do that also?


Would it help here?
This is two layers of border. You can see the top layer, dark blue on the right.
Anything watery would run down the wall.
The first layer of mud took all of the blue down to the next border.
The next layer of mud took it down to the under layer.
HERE I could see FS maybe helping with the last layer.





















:cowboy:


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## Underdog

Scotiadawg said:


> Looks like we got us another ChrisN:whistling2:


Hey, you don't know how many times my family pulls out the dictionary to make a point. :bangin:


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## Scotiadawg

Underdog said:


> Hey, you don't know how many times my family pulls out the dictionary to make a point. :bangin:


LMAO Well played !:notworthy::thumbsup: . ChrisN needs one , misspelt a wurd in nother post and still can't figure it out !:whistling2:


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## daArch

Good point, underdog (UD from now on, by then time I finish typing "underdog" I forget what I was going to . . . OH LOOK, a chicken)

now where was I ??? 

Oh yea, good point about lack of control of water falling, and also keeping off a popcorn ceiling. I oft been tempted to use the gels, but then my hype radar goes off.

I think somewhere here there is a mixological solution, combining many of the methods and products mentioned in this thread. 

Is that what they mean by brainstorming ?


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## BrushJockey

My secret weapon is a sponge mop with the handle cut to 3' and then covering in painters poly. Bettern any additives.


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## Underdog

daArch said:


> Good point, underdog



'bout time someone recognized





daArch said:


> Is that what they mean by brainstorming ?





BrushJockey said:


> My secret weapon is a sponge mop with the handle cut to 3' and then covering in painters poly. Bettern any additives.


Here's what I've noticed about paperhangers, they get set in their ways.

The painter's poly has been recommended earlier with 880 but I have the most difficult time changing my methods if I can't immediately have faith in the results.
I CAN'T see anything keeping stubborn wallpaper wet longer than joint compund. I keeps the paper's integrity as opposed to scoring, which I would think you would have to do with liquids. The repellant quality of vinyl is a huge factor, that plus I spent years trying different strippers for decades.

If I do try this I promise to take pictures and report honestly.

This job I'm on now which I just posted, the contractor wants me to float down the wall and he will have his painter spray texture and feather it in because it took me too long to strip one room and there are 3 more... so not this job.

:cowboy:


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## BrushJockey

But with the Poly NO moisture escapes or dries out..


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## Underdog

BrushJockey said:


> But with the Poly NO moisture escapes or dries out..


Okay, I'm sold when someone is motivated enough to post a pic.

The very next appropriate job, I'm trying that.
What did YOU wet THAT wall with?


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## BrushJockey

Just water- several times. Using the sponge mop for easier app, more control. Then you need to have a rag in your hand to apply the poly. Otherwise it will stick to your wet hands. 
Cut into 3-4' widths so you can take down one, strip and clean paste before moving to the next.
Soaking , Paitience, and timing the 3 tools of stripping!


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## daArch

it's basically the principle that the wall wik people stole and charge an exorbitant price for.

It's not often needed, buy when you need a long wet out, it does work. and when you use 880 instead of just "water", it achieves a less damaging saturation.


UD, yes scoring bites the big one, but buzzing with 36 grit does no damage to the substrate, keeps the paper's integrity, and creates more breaks in the moisture blocking surface.

I do not bear down nor wait for the print to be sanded off, just a quick enough buzz to break the surface so my solution can get at the paper's backing and rewet the paste.

As to ANYone being stuck in their ways, yes, many are. However there are some of us who realize learning never stops. When I ran a crew of painters, I always advised the new hires to TRY different methods, and if they think they came up with a new twist, tell me. Noobies always look at things with fresh eyes, they ain't hung up on what some self appointed expert dictated to them. 

Most of my methods are a compilation of many people's habits. The greatest traits we humans have are the abilities to change and adapt. If it weren't for our ability to look at things differently, we'd be talking about removing cave art.


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## chrisn

Scotiadawg said:


> LMAO Well played !:notworthy::thumbsup: . ChrisN needs one , misspelt a wurd in nother post and still can't figure it out !:whistling2:


 
I fixed it didn't I?:yes:


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## Gwarel

BrushJockey said:


> Just water- several times. Using the sponge mop for easier app, more control. Then you need to have a rag in your hand to apply the poly. Otherwise it will stick to your wet hands.
> Cut into 3-4' widths so you can take down one, strip and clean paste before moving to the next.
> Soaking , Paitience, and timing the 3 tools of stripping!


I must say that this is one of most useful tips I've learned from using this forum. I use a soft bristled broom to sweep the air out once I have the plastic in place. Great advice BJ.


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## Scotiadawg

chrisn said:


> I fixed it didn't I?:yes:


I'll check:thumbsup:. and please, try to more careful in future, your reputation is at stake:whistling2:


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## daArch

Gwarel said:


> I must say that this is one of most useful tips I've learned from using this forum. I use a soft bristled broom to sweep the air out once I have the plastic in place. Great advice BJ.




yah, I got something that will work


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## chrisn

Scotiadawg said:


> I'll check:thumbsup:. and please, try to more careful in future, your reputation is at stake:whistling2:


 
yes, mom


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## daArch

had an interesting strip today.

Cheap crap prepasted PBV on cheap crap builders' flat, with a 6" band around the ceiling of no paint, just mud.


The cheap crap vinyl pulled off its paper backing OK, and a good amount of the backing pulled off the wall completely. To get the rest off so as not to damage either the JC or bubble the builders flat, the trick was to NOT saturate. Just spray lightly once or twice and then CAREFULLY shave the backing off without gouging the wall. Residue paste rinse off with non overly aggressive ragging with a wet micro fiber tower ("miftie") 

This is NOT the way I am used to, but between using the paste and plastic method in the past and this thread reminding me the principles, I was able to use the tricks and not cause any serious damage.

The first wall I did, I oversaturated and a two square foot section of paint bubbled up and had to be shaved off the JC - which was wet under the paint.

Allowed the walls to dry, patched needed areas, and drenched with gardz. 

I gotta thank UD for starting this thread and allowing the tricks to be fresh in my mind. :thumbsup:


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## BrushJockey

So true. 
A real paper stripping ninja knows how to exploit the weakness just so..


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## Paradigmzz

daArch said:


> had an interesting strip today.
> 
> Cheap crap prepasted PBV on cheap crap builders' flat, with a 6" band around the ceiling of no paint, just mud.
> 
> 
> The cheap crap vinyl pulled off its paper backing OK, and a good amount of the backing pulled off the wall completely. To get the rest off so as not to damage either the JC or bubble the builders flat, the trick was to NOT saturate. Just spray lightly once or twice and then CAREFULLY shave the backing off without gouging the wall. Residue paste rinse off with non overly aggressive ragging with a wet micro fiber tower ("miftie")
> 
> This is NOT the way I am used to, but between using the paste and plastic method in the past and this thread reminding me the principles, I was able to use the tricks and not cause any serious damage.
> 
> 
> The first wall I did, I oversaturated and a two square foot section of paint bubbled up and had to be shaved off the JC - which was wet under the paint.
> 
> Allowed the walls to dry, patched needed areas, and drenched with gardz.
> 
> I gotta thank UD for starting this thread and allowing the tricks to be fresh in my mind. :thumbsup:


Bill, 

We live in different worlds. I dont think the things you experience and I. experience in paper removal even compare. So strange what geographical locations and the age of homes demographics makes. You worry about getting paste clean and clear, I am always trying. to figure out step one- removing paper without destroying the raw drywall.


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## daArch

Paradigmzz said:


> Bill,
> 
> We live in different worlds. I dont think the things you experience and I. experience in paper removal even compare. So strange what geographical locations and the age of homes demographics makes. You worry about getting paste clean and clear, I am always trying. to figure out step one- removing paper without destroying the raw drywall.


I know Para, I've talked to enough hangers in TX to realize it IS a different world down there. Although, up here we occasionally see what you do, just not the same high percentage. :thumbup:


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