# Overspray: What to do?



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

I'm enjoying the nicest January I've ever seen, with hardly a morning below freezing. Most days are up into the 50's. So .....

I take advantage of this nice weather to paint the inside of a carport. I covered everything- floor, trim, whatever. The car is moved to the far end of the drive, and I take care to spray away from the car on what seemed to be a very calm day.

I have no idea as to how it happened, but dang it if that new, dark blue car doesn't now have a light speckled dusting of white latex. A simple, immediate pass through the car wash did not remove it.

So ... what to do? Try to remove it myself- or bite the bullet and pay a body shop to work their magic? What have you done?

Next time .... well, I'm learning to build tents first!


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## Scottclarkpainting (Jul 17, 2010)

Wipe over with some spirits  fixes everything.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> I'm enjoying the nicest January I've ever seen, with hardly a morning below freezing. Most days are up into the 50's. So .....
> 
> I take advantage of this nice weather to paint the inside of a carport. I covered everything- floor, trim, whatever. The car is moved to the far end of the drive, and I take care to spray away from the car on what seemed to be a very calm day.
> 
> ...


Pay someone to detail it..They can buff that out after using a rubbing compound...


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Send it to a detail shop and have them claybar it.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Remind me, why do I not spray exteriors again?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> Send it to a detail shop and have them claybar it.


This I made this mistake a long time ago when I had no business with a spray gun in my hand. Almost a dozen cars with oil, insurance paid for them to be claybar-ed. 

Also don't forget to turn your pressure way down, like as low as it will go and still pump plenty of paint when spraying something that you are gonna back brush-roll anyways. 

You would be surprised at how close you can paint to something with low pressure and not need to even mask let alone worry about overspray.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> Send it to a detail shop and have them claybar it.


That is the correct way to do it. Mothers makes a good claybar system if you look in stores. If you don't know what you are doing you may just make a mess of the vehicle.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Might try some WD-40..I heard that works. Wouldn't know myself.


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## HSpencer (Jan 21, 2012)

Not sure it's the same thing, but I have had good luck with a 50-50 mix of Simple Green. I got deck stain on my car and lawnmower using a pump up sprayer. Later (like a couple of days) when I saw it, I found the Simple Green would cut it off. I have also used Simple Green mix to take off the yellow paint I got on my car from the highway striping.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

*We currently have threads on Hacks..*

I only rarely spray exteriors. The only vehicle that I know that got overspray on it is my own.

Now, since we don't like hacks in our profession, are we condoning a diy job for an auto-detail?

My suggestion is to have it done by a pro. It's the best way to patch up any rocky relationship caused by the incident. It will give assurance and will illustrate your goodwill in dealing with the situation. 

Just my 2 cents.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

sorry..I thought it was your car.

I'll try to read more carefully next time.

I oversprayed a car once.
The guy was really nice about it, and insisted on cleaning it off himself (he said he used WD-40).
I offered to pay him for his time, and he told me to just buy him a pizza.
(I gave him $100...wrote it off...and learned a cheap lesson)


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

When you guys say use low pressure since ou are back brushing, does that mean so low you still have tails? What about surfaces like aluminum siding that do not benefit from back brushing? They you would need normal pressure (just enough that there are no tails, like all other spraying).


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

Dirtex.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> When you guys say use low pressure since ou are back brushing, does that mean so low you still have tails? What about surfaces like aluminum siding that do not benefit from back brushing? They you would need normal pressure (just enough that there are no tails, like all other spraying).


Pretty much Dean. Any finish that is done once sprayed has to be treated that way, but most exterior siding I back brush and am just using the sprayer as a way to keep a wet brush.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Krud kutter in pump up sprayer, work a section at a time, use micro fiber cloth, rinse cloth often under running water. Check bottle against car to be sure you don't get krud cutter on something it should not be on. You are the only one who knows what that car looks like. I might not put KK on a convertible top for example.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> Krud kutter in pump up sprayer, work a section at a time, use micro fiber cloth, rinse cloth often under running water. Check bottle against car to be sure you don't get krud cutter on something it should not be on. You are the only one who knows what that car looks like. I might not put KK on a convertible top for example.



So you suggest not letting the owner of the car know that you sprayed paint on it, and also to try do detail it without prior discussion and/or permission from the owner?

Do you think it's even close to a professional way to handle something like this?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> So you suggest not letting the owner of the car know that you sprayed paint on it, and also to try do detail it without prior discussion and/or permission from the owner?
> 
> Do you think it's even close to a professional way to handle something like this?


Not sure where you came up with all that from my post. I offered a way to get overspray off the car. Nothing more.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

_"Honey, there's a guy out in the driveway wearing a hoodie...omg it looks like he is polishing our car with a headlamp on..."_


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Not sure where you came up with all that from my post. I offered a way to get overspray off the car. Nothing more.



What!...your sister is a Mongolian flea circus trainer?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> You are the only one who knows what that car looks like.





jack pauhl said:


> Not sure where you came up with all that from my post. I offered a way to get overspray off the car. Nothing more.



Perhaps I misinterpreted. My bad if I did.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> Perhaps I misinterpreted. My bad if I did.


I could only assume had this guy dusted their car that at some point or another the conversation would come up to resolve it and discuss the options he presented in the OP. Pretty sure the minute he asked for the car keys -- it might raise some questions. ha ha


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> I could only assume had this guy dusted their car that at some point or another the conversation would come up to resolve it and discuss the options he presented in the OP. Pretty sure the minute he asked for the car keys -- it might raise some questions. ha ha


Just to be clear in my post I was not suggesting he drive the car but send it to be detailed. OP said the car wash did not take so I am sure the problem is out in the open.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Not sure where you came up with all that from my post. I offered a way to get overspray off the car. Nothing more.


So wait a minute. You would kill the family, burn the house down, steal the car and drive it into the ocean?


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> This I made this mistake a long time ago when I had no business with a spray gun in my hand. Almost a dozen cars with oil, insurance paid for them to be claybar-ed.
> 
> Also don't forget to turn your pressure way down, like as low as it will go and still pump plenty of paint when spraying something that you are gonna back brush-roll anyways.
> 
> You would be surprised at how close you can paint to something with low pressure and not need to even mask let alone worry about overspray.


Airless sprayer for exteriors-don't leave home without it. 

I also spray close to the substrate and back-brush. I practically never carry a pail. Especially on a 32 foot ladder! Gun in hand with a shield, then drape over ladder rung and get to brushin'. I do go to lengths to cover everything when shooting garage doors, since I don't back brush them.

Just my style, not that it's right for you.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

funny story...i was asked to help a friend of mine help with a large porsche audi dealership. his co. was painting the large shop area and he asked me to paint the show room and some offices...it was all night work,well one night his guys were spraying the walls in the shop with oil,while spraying the walls one of his guys opened one of the large overhead doors and just outside the doors was a lot full of $80 to a $140.000 cars. a cloud of oil paint floated out and landed on 30 plus cars.......they had to claybar everyone,when they were done you could never tell, it was amazing,i never would of thought they would of come that clean
take it to a pro or you may do more damage to the paint...jmho


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

Any other suggestion to limit the overspray. What kind of sprayer would do less damage in your opinion? We do a lot of aluminum sidding.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

sl said it in a earlier thread...small tip and turn pressure down...latex 313 or 413, oil 311 or 411 or ff tips ......dont forget to change filters in gun and pump to 100 mesh when using smaller tips,the pump size dont matter to me
hope this helps


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Any other suggestion to limit the overspray. What kind of sprayer would do less damage in your opinion? We do a lot of aluminum sidding.


Hmmmm I may be way off here but would an air assisted help in your particular situation..


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

Julian&co said:


> Hmmmm I may be way off here but would an air assisted help in your particular situation..


Im leaning toward that for next season


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Im leaning toward that for next season


i think airless is still the best option...practice makes perfect


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

If I hired a professional to paint my house, I would expect them not to get overspray on my car.

I also would not allow them to touch my vehicle since they were negligent in the beginning. 

If I was the professional painter, I would bring it to their attention, have the vehicle professionally detailed on my dime, and move on.

This will keep a sound relationship with your customer, and you will avoid being called a hack from the customer and of course here on Painttalk.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

Before spraying outside we usually cover the cars. We wet the car so the plastic cover will stick on it.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> Send it to a detail shop and have them claybar it.


This^^^^^^

One car isnt that bad. If you have 10 or more you get a cheaper rate :whistling2: Not my doing, a customer of mine whacked a bunch at the car dealership next to his job. Like 30 something I think. Thankfully they had a detailer in house. They set up a tent in the parking lot and lined up the cars assembly line style. 

In the future:
Invest in some car covers. Let residents know in advance that you will be working near their vehicles. Send a notice a couple weeks before hand, then a day or two before you start. Cover any vehicles that arent moved with a car cover. There are lots of types out there. We used the white tyvek style, just like a spray suit.


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## Ramsden Painting (Jul 17, 2011)

That's a great idea. We used on last year When a neighbor left hers close to the house ee were spraying. She was never home but called and complained we covered her car and said we better of not scratched it with the over. Sometimes you just can't win. 

Another time a huge guy showed up who didn't speak english and we wad Huge. He bought an interpreter to tell me we got over pray on his car. (we were spraying a 3 family home in a densely populated area) I offered to have it detailed but he wanted his guy to do it. It cost me $175. Never saw the car, just gave him the money the next day and that was the end of it

Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Claybar? OK, that's a new word to me ... I'll find a pro shop and get it done.

When you FUBAR something, you can stop worrying about profit- now it's all about saving your reputation. I want the customer to feel all warm and fuzzy towards me, even though I effed up.

At least I now know what to ask for.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

There's no way I would even consider doing anything to this car myself. The first time was an accident. The second...

Mistakes will be made and people will _usually_ be pretty understanding about it. How you deal with it now will determine how your client and the car owner end up judging you and your business so get it professionally corrected by whatever means necessary. Besides, that's why you have insurance.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

researchhound said:


> Besides, that's why you have insurance.


Doh!


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> Claybar? OK, that's a new word to me ... I'll find a pro shop and get it done.
> 
> When you FUBAR something, you can stop worrying about profit- now it's all about saving your reputation. I want the customer to feel all warm and fuzzy towards me, even though I effed up.
> 
> At least I now know what to ask for.


Solid....

There is more opportunity to gain reputation through a mistake than everything going right.

Simply fix it as fast and friendly as possible. 

Learn from it.

Carry on. :thumbsup:


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

Thanks for that post, time to go and get some car covers with company logo on them, food for thought. also a good marketing tool showing attention to every detail.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

you dont need car covers....we just use the 12 x 400 rolls of .5 mill plastic, just cut two peices the lengh of the car,tape to bottom of tires and your done.....cost about 30 cents per car


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> Claybar? OK, that's a new word to me ... I'll find a pro shop and get it done.
> 
> When you FUBAR something, you can stop worrying about profit- now it's all about saving your reputation. I want the customer to feel all warm and fuzzy towards me, even though I effed up.
> 
> At least I now know what to ask for.


sounds like " spraying " is a new word too....:whistling2:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I clean my truck with 3M Citrus base cleaner all the time. Works great and doesn't hurt the finnish.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

I knock on doors have the owner move the cars or whatever . Last resort cover . Low pressure sometimes . Drops card board 
The right spray technique . I hate overspray . I have clean cars once don't plan on doing it again . Knock on wood


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## playedout6 (Apr 27, 2009)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> I'm enjoying the nicest January I've ever seen, with hardly a morning below freezing. Most days are up into the 50's. So .....
> 
> I take advantage of this nice weather to paint the inside of a carport. I covered everything- floor, trim, whatever. The car is moved to the far end of the drive, and I take care to spray away from the car on what seemed to be a very calm day.
> 
> ...


 LOL...well if it makes you feel any better...we once painted a dozen in a day . We were just finishing up at a corner on a building and we had a quick shift of wind...and now you know the rest of the story ! I had asked the people in the parking lot that they were in to move them back a few rows for the afternoon...and they all figured they were far enough away from us...guess what ? Nobody moved...and in the end my insurance had to have them all buffed . They won't cover me for any spraying now and that is over 8 years ago . Insurance said it did not matter that I asked them to move...I was still libel !


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Solid....
> 
> There is more opportunity to gain reputation through a mistake than everything going right.
> 
> ...


So true, eagerness to fix a problem while maintaining at a professional level says a lot to the customer. 

Solid post Paul. :thumbup:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> I clean my truck with 3M Citrus base cleaner all the time. Works great and doesn't hurt the finnish.


Yeah, but how do the Swedes feel about it? :blink::thumbsup:

(Sorry Gabe - I just couldn't resist.):jester:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

researchhound said:


> Yeah, but how do the Swedes feel about it? :blink::thumbsup:
> 
> (Sorry Gabe - I just couldn't resist.):jester:


and yet you left; 


Ramsden Painting said:


> Another time a huge guy showed up who didn't speak english and we wad Huge. He bought an interpreter to tell me we got over pray on his car.


alone. :no:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> and yet you left;
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Ramsden Painting
> ...


Oh I was tempted - trust me :yes:. It's just that poking Gabe with a stick is way more fun.:icon_wink:


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

wills fresh coat said:


> you dont need car covers....we just use the 12 x 400 rolls of .5 mill plastic, just cut two peices the lengh of the car,tape to bottom of tires and your done.....cost about 30 cents per car


An even cheaper option! Fair one


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I would use a Festool rotary tool with 120 grit. It will take that over-spray right off.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

epretot said:


> I would use a Festool rotary tool with 120 grit. It will take that over-spray right off.


The Ro 150 with the buffer attachment might do better. :whistling2:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Im leaning toward that for next season


It would slow down your production, but yes aaa has much less overspray. If you just use the right tip and pressure for the job you can get close to the same performance.

Not being critical of you, but it surprises me so many contractors don't really seem to know how to spray.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> The Ro 150 with the buffer attachment might do better. :whistling2:


Oh! You are trying to protect the original finish. I thought we were only concerned about the over-spray.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> Not being critical of you, but it surprises me so many contractors don't really seem to know how to spray.


It is the learn as you go side of this trade.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

epretot said:


> Oh! You are trying to protect the original finish. I thought we were only concerned about the over-spray.


lol 
Yeah I guess you could sand away at it and get it ready for a new paint job.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> Not being critical of you, but it surprises me so many contractors don't really seem to know how to spray.


I have good painters who know a lot more than me about how to spray, but I'm always to curious to learn new technique and new piece of equipement we dont have already.
Exterior Spray painting is relatively new in my region. We are maybe 3 business who offer this service.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

With the short exterior season you have I would think you would have several painters spraying at once.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> I have good painters who know a lot more than me about how to spray, but I'm always to curious to learn new technique and new piece of equipement we dont have already.
> Exterior Spray painting is relatively new in my region. We are maybe 3 business who offer this service.


REALLY?  Can you offer any insight as to why that's the case? I was spraying exteriors decades ago.


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

"sounds like " spraying " is a new word too....:whistling2:"

Yea ... that's why I call these sorts of expenses "tuition."  Otherwise, I think Workaholic has the best approach ... it's all about the service.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> "sounds like " spraying " is a new word too....:whistling2:"
> 
> Yea ... that's why I call these sorts of expenses "tuition."  Otherwise, I think Workaholic has the best approach ... it's all about the service.


cmon do you really think by cleaning that costomers car no matter how it comes out or how fast you did it that they are going to call you back to screw something else up? i highly doubt it
kinda like the plumber that comes to fix a pipe then floods your basement, yeah he makes it right but im damn sure not calling him back to fix anything else
next time cover all cars that are a breeze away from being covered in over spray,thats the service your (we) are supposed to provide


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> It would slow down your production, but yes aaa has much less overspray. If you just use the right tip and pressure for the job you can get close to the same performance.
> 
> Not being critical of you, but it surprises me so many contractors don't really seem to know how to spray.


In Ireland I was so used to roller and brush, spraying was only really used on very large commercial projects, I will admit openly that I have never sprayed. Having said that after so many years in the game, and now having just started a company here in the US it would be stupid of me not to learn, we will be purchasing 2 sprayers as we already have tentative exterior jobs planned for June.

Do sprayer manufactures still provide free training after purchase?


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## ligboozer (Oct 13, 2009)

When I was working in the union, I was brought in to finish a fire station project after the painter running the job disappeared/got fired. It was a total cluster and the boss was on me to "just wrap it up".

Last big hurdle was painting the metal trellis over the roll up doors fire engine red (no pun) so I decided to spray it. The station was in the middle of nowhere, flat all around and in the afternoon the breeze kicked up. Long story short, painted the trellis and the superintendants new work truck (white) with the fire engine red. 

Superintendant was very cool, liked me and told me not to panic, just take care of it.

I used a product called Plasti-Master, or maybe it was the Graffiti-Master, but it worked great, it releases the color pigment and you constantly use a clean rag to wipe, it comes right off. 

45 min with that stuff and that truck was good as new. :thumbup:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Finn said:


> In Ireland I was so used to roller and brush, spraying was only really used on very large commercial projects, I will admit openly that I have never sprayed. Having said that after so many years in the game, and now having just started a company here in the US it would be stupid of me not to learn, we will be purchasing 2 sprayers as we already have tentative exterior jobs planned for June.
> 
> Do sprayer manufactures still provide free training after purchase?


Some do Brian, but time with the gun in your hand is what is really needed. My best suggestion is to learn the correct technique, and concentrate always when spraying. A few seconds of not paying attention can cause a big problem.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

Never a more true word spoken, I'm gonna. Practice on the directors house. Good reply.


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## team 911 (Dec 29, 2010)

Next time park the care alot farther also check the size of your tip make sure its not blown


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## TNpainter (Dec 7, 2011)

If its latex denatured alcohol will get latex off after it has dried but u might make a mess when the latex starts to loosen up. It also sound like u have no business with a spray gun your pressure was to high doesn't matter how windy you are still gonna create over spray where it drifts is the question


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Thank you all for your advice.

I have made it clear that I'm rather new to spraying - long time brush & roller guy here - and it sounds like I'm going through the same 'learning curve' others have.

There's a reason it's called a SKILLED trade. There's not a job where I don't learn something.


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

I suppose I ought to let everyone know how this turned out ... 

First off, I never, not for a second, considered 'playing dumb.' It never entered my mind. I guess I'm not that clever.

Let's put things in perspective, first ...

That dusting of paint is enough to knock a car's condition down to 'average,' from 'above average.' In market terms, that's a $1000 loss in 'cash value' and $2000 in 'trade in value.' Visit your favorite car site and check it yourself.

The body shop wanted the car for two days, and estimated $300-500 to remove the overspray.

I wasn't ready to part with that sort of cash without at least trying to remove the paint. I got a package of 'Goof-Off' wipes and tried it on the back of one of the mirrors. It showed promise. As advertised, the stuff does work on dried latex paint.

Our friends at Scotch make a very nice, soft, triangular sponge, with a handle. Find it in the mop aisle of your local grocery store. There's also a blue "no scratch' insert for this handle.

Soaking the sponge in Goof-Off and wiping down the car removed a large amount of the overspray. Absolutely none of the car's color appeared on the white sponge. Follow-up wiping with the sponge, and some detail work with the blue pad, removed the balance of the paint. 

A pass through the car wash, and it was clear I was on the right track. Goof-Off also is 'instant death' for wax, so the car looked smeared and dull. So, once it dried, it was "buff time" with Turtle wax and a random-orbit buffer.

I also hired a helper ($30) to detail the inside of the car at the same time. This is called 'kissing up to the customer.'

I dodged the bullet. Even with the experimenting, I spent less than $50 on materials, and lost half a day. I write it off as 'tuition' in the School of Life.

You need gloves and glasses when working with Goof-Off / Xylene / Xylol. You need plenty of ventilation. The cooler and cloudier the day, the better. 

Goof-Off rinses clean with alcohol; then you can rinse out the alcohol with water. The sponge I used is slightly dirty, but otherwise in great shape.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Thats cool none of the car paint came off while wiping... thats probably because theres a clear coat on it, not sure how bad the clear coat got wore off and degraded tho... 

Oh well, it will probably be a few years before anything shows up 

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

You could have gotten the car clay rubbed by a detalor. the cost is about a hundred bucks and it would be better than new.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Good off will eat the clear coat. Good luck with that.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> Good off will eat the clear coat. Good luck with that.


Now instead of goof off he needs some woops off.

Sent from my MB508 using Paint Talk


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## Temple (May 25, 2012)

*Car Wash*

What type of car wash did you take it to? was it the spray only or the one with the big spinning wheels?


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## caulktheline (Feb 10, 2011)

Some 2500 or 3000 rubbing compound would buff it out. It will clear foggy headlight lenses too.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Remind me not to let guys like you remove over-spray from any of my vehicles. I like my paint & clear-coat pristine. 

Clay bar is the safest and best way to do it. Afterwards it will need to be polished to remove and marks and swirls. It would also help to wax it afterwards since the clay & polishing stripped off all the wax.

Cost by a pro detailer here about $250 and leave the vehicle there for the day.


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Well, it was my tail on the line; my call, my responsibility. Yes, there's always the possibility that any decision will prove poor, and you'll take a loss.

The body shop is where you find the 'pros' in this sort of thing. I'm in a small town, and I can't think of any 'detailers' whom I would trust to do more than vacuum and wax a car. Indeed, there's just one body shop.

The body shop referred to 'a variety of methods' they would try, progressing from the gentlest to the more aggressive. "Claybar" was on their list, but not their first choice. From many comments, the claybar method is slow, tedious, and easy to mess up. I'd let a pro do it to someone else's car.

It probably also should be noted that I did ask my insurance carrier for advice; he sent me to the body shop.

I can't claim that my solution is always the right solution. It appears to have worked - this time. With a couple months of weather on the car since the cleaning, I figure I'm safe from any call-backs by now. I just figured you guys deserved to know how things worked out.

The car wash was a 'touchless' type, with the water jets.

"Clear coat" seems to be a bit of marketing jargon. I asked the body shop, and to them a 'clear coat' is a clear urethane paint, something that would shrug off Goof-Off. Yet, car dealers try to up-sell you to a 'clear coat' that is nothing more than a nice wax job.

I will admit that the car did have some 'streaking' and 'clouding' after the car wash. This disappeared with a good wax & polish. I think the haze I saw was just some xylene/paint residue; as noted before, xylene is not water soluble at all. When I removed the dried wax as I polished the car, I probably also removed this residue.

I'll tell you this: for the cash and time lost fixing this goof .... you can bet I have a new love of masking, tenting, and tarps. I just might add some magnets to my truck, so I can attach tarps to things like parked cars. I had thought the car would be safe at the end of the drive - and I was wrong.

Now ... if I can find the  who set a tool bucket on the hood of my personal car! I have some scratches to rub out ....


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