# sherwin williams quartz stone



## andy1015

I have a customer that wants the quartz stone finish from sherwin…its $95 dollars a gallon. Looks like paint mixed with drywall mud…? Any faux painters here now how to create this product using mud and paint?…i can't see spending $500 dollars for materials to paint a bathroom….


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## MikeCalifornia

Dude? What does it matter what the material costs. If this is what the customer wants, they will pay the price. If you are concerned with the price, be a hack, and have them pick up and buy the product for you.

By the way, just follow the easy to use application guide that the store has on the process.


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## Lambrecht

I would suggest calling a faux finisher to do the faux work and you do the prep and base coat for the finisher. This will be a win- win for you. You will still get paid to paint the bathroom and you can build a relationship with a faux finisher. They usually hire out the prep work and base coat work and then come in and do the faux work. And if your client is wanting a faux finish on the walls it can cost anywhere from 4-12 bucks a sf or more depending on the finish. So they could easily be looking at well over 500 to paint their crapper.


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## mug

MikeCalifornia said:


> Dude? What does it matter what the material costs. If this is what the customer wants, they will pay the price. If you are concerned with the price, be a hack, and have them pick up and buy the product for you.
> 
> By the way, just follow the easy to use application guide that the store has on the process.


This is the number one reason why I do not bother to post on this forum.


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## Paradigmzz

mug said:


> This is the number one reason why I do not bother to post on this forum.


Then dont post. Quartz stone has flecks of iridescent stone in it. You can't "just use mud and paint". 

If you want an answer that cuts corners than figure it out yourself. The material cost is the material cost. Im spraying 60 gallons of clear coat that retails at 200 dollars a gallon today. 


Maybe I should just use some waterwhite lacquer or some poly instead because its clear as well and a whole lot cheaper? That would be cheaper right? Well its not what the customer wanted.

You want to bitch about people being honest? I'd rather hear someone recommend correct procedures and legitimate advice than lie to me and tell me a hackish, way of doing something that will leave the customer pissed and feeling like they didn't get what they paid for. 

Post or dont post. No one is putting a gun to your head. Read or dont read. Same thing.


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## Epoxy Pro

mug said:


> This is the number one reason why I do not bother to post on this forum.


If you don't have thick skin you shouldn't even be in this trade. Paradigmzz is right no one forces any one to post on here. This is a forum some people are brutally honest some sugar coat it, some are just to nice to even bother giving their honest reply so they don't.
This forum is the best one for getting answers weather you like the replies or not. Most of us here have many years of experience and are willing to pass it onto those who need help for FREE.


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## Epoxy Pro

MikeCalifornia said:


> Dude? What does it matter what the material costs. If this is what the customer wants, they will pay the price. If you are concerned with the price, be a hack, and have them pick up and buy the product for you.
> 
> By the way, just follow the easy to use application guide that the store has on the process.


I wouldn't say because a HO picks up the materials some one is a hack. We have many HO's picking up the paint, it saves us time and costs them more money in the long run.

I agree 100% the customer is paying for the materials no matter what. So just get what they want or don't take the job on.


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## straight_lines

mug said:


> This is the number one reason why I do not bother to post on this forum.


He has a point, its what the client wants. The hell does it matter what the product costs? 

You are in the business of giving them what they want, or at least you should be.


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## mug

It's the hack analogy or "beat a man down so I feel better" crap. I can appreciate sarcasm and what have you, but we put up with bs from customers day in and day out. It's just a question!

If ya'll don't care for the question why not just ignore it or simply answer such as this "Quartz stone has flecks of iridescent stone in it. You can't just use mud and paint". - now that's professional. 

Since I bothered to complain I will give an answer to the original post.

Andy, Lambrecht Painting gave you a solid answer.


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## andy1015

ok ok…take it easy boys….i suppose my problem is with sherwin williams. This quartz stone stuff is $93 dollars a gallon retail…AND…they only sell gallons. This makes it a bit pricey to purchase in order to make a sample board. I got a quart of base, a quart of metallic, and a gallon of the quartz stone to make a 2'x2' sample for the customer. $100+ for a sample was a bit steep to pay….and hard to explain to the customer...


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## Epoxy Pro

andy1015 said:


> ok ok…take it easy boys….i suppose my problem is with sherwin williams. This quartz stone stuff is $93 dollars a gallon retail…AND…they only sell gallons. This makes it a bit pricey to purchase in order to make a sample board. I got a quart of base, a quart of metallic, and a gallon of the quartz stone to make a 2'x2' sample for the customer. $100+ for a sample was a bit steep to pay….and hard to explain to the customer...


We charge for every sample plus our time. If a sample is needed they should pay. If you made the sample just to show you can apply the product and how it looks, that's a catch 22. If you get the job some how some way work that into the price.


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## straight_lines

andy1015 said:


> ok ok…take it easy boys….i suppose my problem is with sherwin williams. This quartz stone stuff is $93 dollars a gallon retail…AND…they only sell gallons. This makes it a bit pricey to purchase in order to make a sample board. I got a quart of base, a quart of metallic, and a gallon of the quartz stone to make a 2'x2' sample for the customer. $100+ for a sample was a bit steep to pay….and hard to explain to the customer...


It costs what it costs, I don't see the problem. What is there to explain that is so hard? Your time invested should have been close to that.


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## andy1015

well..the point is…$100 dollars in material is a bit pricey for a single sample. As I said previously…Sherwin should sell smaller cans, so that it would be cost effective for me to make more sample boards, in order for me to give customers different choices.


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## Paradigmzz

andy1015 said:


> well..the point is…$100 dollars in material is a bit pricey for a single sample. As I said previously…Sherwin should sell smaller cans, so that it would be cost effective for me to make more sample boards, in order for me to give customers different choices.


It would be nice for smaller cans. Its a specialty item and it sits on the shelves if even stocked. Easiest way to deal with it with a customer is tell them. Its what it is. If they want a sample, its on their dime.


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## MikeCalifornia

andy1015 said:


> well..the point is…$100 dollars in material is a bit pricey for a single sample. As I said previously…Sherwin should sell smaller cans, so that it would be cost effective for me to make more sample boards, in order for me to give customers different choices.


The store should have a huge locker thing with the product shown as a sample, then on the inside are color cards showing different color combos. If the customer can't tell what they want at the store, then they will have to pay someone to show them....you.

Think about how accurate that little 8oz sample is from HD to the chip? Not close. A quart is the smallest quantity that can accurately be tinted. Why not talk to the store manager or your rep, they might comp you a couple of quarts to make a sample. Then buy the stuff from that store if the job moves forward. You get to make a sample, and make a few more for yourself and that store, put your business card on it and have the store show customers. Win..Win for you.


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## andy1015

The quartz stone was relatively easy to work with on a small sample…but i can see it being more difficult on a larger section. Will adding an extender be ok with this product?


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## Lambrecht

Have you painted the base coat with semi-gloss? How are you applying the product? Ie. Spatula, trowel, brush, roller. Is it a straight glaze or a paint/glaze mix? Yes extenders will help but have you ever done faux work before.


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## Lambrecht

I just looked up the product and watched the video. Impressions is a decent product but that instructional video is idiotic and I hope that you don't plan on following it's application instructions or you will have a truly crappy finished product. If you plan on doing this job for your customer practice with this product on a full sheet of drywall before screwing up her walls. It needs to be applied in small sections at a time and blended with scattered faded edges too avoid heavy build up. The second coat will soak into the first coat and want to set up quicker making it harder to work with especially if you are not experienced. I have no doubt that you can accomplish the job but I am certain that it will not look like an experienced faux finisher did the job. Your walls should be buttery smooth when done. The "textured" high and low sheens of the finished product come from the way the product is tooled on the walls not from leaving actual ridges on the wall.


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## RH

Lambrecht said:


> I just looked up the product and watched the video. Impressions is a decent product but that instructional video is idiotic and I hope that you don't plan on following it's application instructions or you will have a truly crappy finished product. If you plan on doing this job for your customer practice with this product on a full sheet of drywall before screwing up her walls. It needs to be applied in small sections at a time and blended with scattered faded edges too avoid heavy build up. The second coat will soak into the first coat and want to set up quicker making it harder to work with especially if you are not experienced. I have no doubt that you can accomplish the job but I am certain that it will not look like an experienced faux finisher did the job. Your walls should be buttery smooth when done. The "textured" high and low sheens of the finished product come from the way the product is tooled on the walls not from leaving actual ridges on the wall.


Often, wisdom is knowing when to call in a pro. Hmmm… where have I heard that before?


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## fauxlynn

andy1015 said:


> I have a customer that wants the quartz stone finish from sherwin…its $95 dollars a gallon. Looks like paint mixed with drywall mud…? Any faux painters here now how to create this product using mud and paint?…i can't see spending $500 dollars for materials to paint a bathroom….


Hi, sorry I'm late to the party. Here is my 2 cents.

You are not painting a bathroom, you are applying a custom faux finish...cha ching.

Do not do samples until you have a written contract and deposit in hand, then it doesn't matter that you paid $90.00 plus per gallon, because that cost is rolled into your price. They already have an idea of what it looks like from the SW store.

I looked at those videos, and my first impression,(having never used this product) is that I believe that timing will be critical. That stuff is going to tack up fast I bet, so it cannot be overworked. 

Be careful about adding extenders, sometimes they don't matter that much.

The good news is it is a bathroom, so each wall is probably manageable.

Whichever finish you are doing, the smooth, brushed or strie..you just have to work fast!! With the smooth and the brushed, I would start in the upper corner, and work down and to the right or left in patches as large as you can handle that are amoeba shaped. No boxes, no rows. Giant amoebas.

You need to have your tools at the ready,all right there, no fumbling around switching from brush to roller to trowel. Sometimes it is very helpful to have one person apply the product and the other person working it.

Hope that was helpful.

Did I say work fast,lol?

Oh, yeah , I forgot ..didn't some new person just post something about using this same product in a hotel?? Love to hear his/her experience. added- Look at the thread Faux Wall by Quality Paint, he used this stuff.


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## andy1015

its the striae finish..i plan on doing two foot sections…i know that i need to move fast with this product…i'll drink mountain dew


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## fauxlynn

andy1015 said:


> its the striae finish..i plan on doing two foot sections…i know that i need to move fast with this product…i'll drink mountain dew


6x8 powder room,huh. How high is the ceiling? Fixtures in? Do you happen to have a laser level?


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## andy1015

8ft ceilings…no fixtures..


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## fauxlynn

Hey Andy, well not that you asked for my advice, but I can offer you a couple things to consider...great that there are no fixtures.

I think it is a good plan to do the 2ft. wide sections like you said.
If I were you I would start on the smallest/least complicated wall.

You might also want to consider doing the two opposing walls, let them dry, then come back to the other two walls. I only say that because wrapping inside corners can sometimes be difficult. It is inevitable that the corner of the brush will drag into the wall you just did. You could quickly 'fix' any weirdness with a chip brush,though.

I know this is hand done, but in doing a strie, I usually use a laser level to keep me from swinging out to one side or the other as the wall progresses. If you don't have a laser level you can tape off sections vertically before you start with a level. You can work right up to the tape if you're careful and when rolling on the next 2 ft. wide section, you can carefully roll right up to it. OR, leave a little bit un-done and then when you add more to the wall you don't have to be so careful.

8 ft. ceilings means somewhere in that stroke dragging down the wall, you will probably hesitate and it will leave a 'stop' mark. Pretty much inevitable. Just don't have all the stop marks occurring in the same place. Never leave them at eye level.

Dragging the brush through more than once will create a different look, so try to be consistent.

Wipe the dragging tool off frequently, that stuff will get built up in there.

I don't know if you want to try this-- I was taught to lock my elbow and stand with my side facing the wall. It helps keep the strokes straighter. Nowadays I don't stand exactly sideways, but I will say if you bend from the elbow, the stokes just seem to be more 'wavy'.

I can't think of anything else right now, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.


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## slinger58

After reading these posts, I'm pretty sure I'd go with the advice of calling a pro.:yes:


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## fauxlynn

slinger58 said:


> After reading these posts, I'm pretty sure I'd go with the advice of calling a pro.:yes:


I have every confidence he can do it, just have to be prepared.


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## slinger58

fauxlynn said:


> I have every confidence he can do it, just have to be prepared.


I was speaking of what I would do (call a pro). I'm sure he can learn to do it, too. It's just been my experience that learning a new technique or skill on a customer's house can be expensive for both parties. Especially with $100/gallon material.
In my very limited experience trying various faux techniques here at my house, I learned that doing a sample on a 2' x 2' board is one thing and doing a whole wall from floor to ceiling is another. Making it all blend seamlessly is why you make the big bucks, Lynn. :thumbsup:


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## fauxlynn

slinger58 said:


> In my very limited experience trying various faux techniques here at my house, I learned that doing a sample on a 2' x 2' board is one thing and doing a whole wall from floor to ceiling is another. Making it all blend seamlessly is why you make the big bucks, Lynn. :thumbsup:


Yup,yup, a sample board is quite different for sure. 

Hey, I'll let you in on a little secret--anyone can do this if they practice a little. I'm all smoke and mirrors, haven't you figured that out yet?:whistling2:


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## benthepainter

fauxlynn said:


> Yup,yup, a sample board is quite different for sure. Hey, I'll let you in on a little secret--anyone can do this if they practice a little. I'm all smoke and mirrors, haven't you figured that out yet?:whistling2:


lol Fauxlynn : )


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## slinger58

fauxlynn said:


> Yup,yup, a sample board is quite different for sure.
> 
> Hey, I'll let you in on a little secret--anyone can do this if they practice a little. I'm all smoke and mirrors, haven't you figured that out yet?:whistling2:


I'm a little slow, but yeah I was starting to suspect as much.:jester:


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## andy1015

thanks for the tips Lynn…you are the best!...i have a gallon of the stuff and i am gonna play with it a bit before i go to it. I'm confident that it will turn out fine…this is definitely not the biggest risk I've ever taken in my life…and if it fails..it won't be the costliest mistake i've ever made...


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## fauxlynn

slinger58 said:


> I'm a little slow, but yeah I was starting to suspect as much.:jester:





andy1015 said:


> thanks for the tips Lynn…you are the best!...i have a gallon of the stuff and i am gonna play with it a bit before i go to it. I'm confident that it will turn out fine…this is definitely not the biggest risk I've ever taken in my life…and if it fails..it won't be the costliest mistake i've ever made...


Slinger-I have a feeling you're not as slow as you portray yourself.:jester:

Andy- Good luck, you have a good attitude, it's only paint,right?


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