# First time spraying doors



## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

Searching for info brought me to this forum. I have an upcoming job that will require (14) 6-panel doors to be painted. Normally we paint (re-paint) the doors in place with a brush/mini roller and SW proclassic, with a light sanding in between coats. But with the number of doors to prime and paint I figured I will mask off the garage and shoot the doors. 
I have only been spraying with an airless for 2 years and usually only use it for exterior siding, so any advice would be appreciated. My plan is to spray SW multi purpose primer with a 311 tip. This is our most used primer and kind of the go to. Sand and then spray pro classic semi with a 211 FF tip. The pump is a Titan 440i. I plan 2 coats for the primer and 2-3 light coats of the PC. 
Thanks for any and all responses


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I hope it's warm where you are, or that you can warm the garage. 
A 211 is too narrow IMO. 
310 or 410 graco fine finish tip. 
Be prepared to do a lot of sanding of sags if this is your first rodeo. The primer should be more forgiving. If you do need to sand sags wet sanding is the better approach. 
When shooting your first door with the finish paint, shoot it, wait about 20 minutes, have a look to make sure no sags etc, and then proceed if all is well. This is much better than shooting 14 doors only to discover you're going too heavy and having to sand 14 doors out.


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

not my first time with proclassic, I'm reading how that stuff is a different animal. But for me ignorance is bliss, it is all we use for trim. I have a portable heater that will work and we are getting some 45 degree weather this weekend so it will have to work. 

As far as tip selection, 211 is no good. Why? Looking to find the reason, not sarcastic. Will it waste too much, build up issues, 50% lapping too difficult with a 2xx size. 

What about pressure, I generally take the manufacture's recommendations and adjust till there is no tail(s). Will sheen suffer. Customer said they want a little sheen, so we have started crown and base in satin, will spraying affect the sheen and make it more dull/shiny. Again I appreciate any comments with past experiences.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Like Damon said, I like 411 for doors. I like to use a "W" pattern with a half of a five stir stick at the corner holding the doors up. Two nails on each side or they will move. Don't forget to overlap each pass by 50% or you will get lines where there is no paint. Shoot the sides head on. One coat primer, sand, then two coats of finish no sanding. I like Solo much better as an enamel. Dries super quick, not as hard, but less likely to run on you.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

With a 4 inch fan you have to make a lot of passes to cover a full size door. I can't see spraying a full size door with anything smaller than a 513. 

I guess the thinking is that using smaller tips gives you better control, but I don't really agree. The more passes its necessary to make, the greater the margin of error on coating thickness. 
That's when runs happen.. When a thin spot is next to a thick spot. 

I spray doors up and down with as few overlapped passes as possible... One side and both edges on a 30" door with 6 passes of a 10" fan... Go down to a 4" fan and your going up and down 15 times or so..


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I have sprayed countless 6 panel doors using PC. I also use a 440i to do so. I prefer the 411 tip.

I use a rig to stand the door up so I can walk around it. Once I pull the trigger, I don't release until the door is complete.

No need for 2-3 coats. I have successfully one coated 6 panel doors (smooth or grained) for years with PC. Just warm the space and you will be fine.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Get that garage warm. Your biggest problem will be sags near the floor, because the slab is cold.
Do you know the difference between 211 and 411? Non sacastically speakin'


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

*Thanks everyone*

I understand the difference with 211 and 411 (4 vs 8 inch fan), I was leaning with the 211 because thats what a friend uses to spray trim indoors. 

Woke up to 55* so I am going to give it a go with a 410 or 411 tip whatever SW has with a fine finish to it. Hope it is a short day other wise I will get an arm workout and really break a sweat sanding my mistakes.
:thumbsup:


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## Paintdian (Apr 17, 2013)

210FF is my favorite trim tip. 310FF has always been great for doors.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> With a 4 inch fan you have to make a lot of passes to cover a full size door. I can't see spraying a full size door with anything smaller than a 513.
> 
> I guess the thinking is that using smaller tips gives you better control, but I don't really agree. The more passes its necessary to make, the greater the margin of error on coating thickness.
> That's when runs happen.. When a thin spot is next to a thick spot.
> ...


I have to agree with Jmay, if you aren't that used to spraying doors you will find with a small size 11 tip you will get flashing by making the coat too light in some spots. Not to say you cant. I've used 411 on doors many times, but it takes a little steadier pace then with a size 13 and You will definitely not want to use a 2** I only use that width on trim and cabs.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

.411 is what I'd suggest for a guy to get his feet wet on doors.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Oden said:


> .411 is what I'd suggest for a guy to get his feet wet on doors.


definitely get feet wet with .411.:whistling2:


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

*Much appreciation*

Thanks for all the reply's, it was a success in some ways. I used a titan 411 tip to prime the doors and a few discoveries were made. One I had a horrible set-up. I put the doors in a alternating pattern were it made two repeating "W's" with a center walk way. I used 5 gal stir sticks and ripped 2X's to attach them all.

They looked like this
/\/\/\/\
======
/\/\/\/\
Did not leave a lot of room between the wall and the first room, I "only" had a 2 car garage to work with, why take up the whole thing (sarcastic of course). Live and learn. The other thing discovered was that the GC I am working for bought the crappiest doors I have seen. We took them down and sanded them after arranging them in the pattern above, Honestly I only sanded to get the drywall mud off and rough them up to accept paint. I could not picture how they would look after a sheen was added. Once primed all the flaws came to life. The raised panel edges looked horrible. whatever machine routed them had a dull blade and the edges were not clean and did not look crisp, they were littered with shavings. And also the doors (half of them) had some significant bulges. Like they were water logged. Picture a bubble in wallpaper. 

I accept some responsibility for not catching it when we took them down but damn they were noticeable when primer/paint was applied. Unfortunately that's why popping my door cherry was a success, but the end product was not to my satisfaction. Definitely not portfolio worthy. I took the advice of some and got the 411 graco FF tip and it laid down beautifully. I was impressed with the tip and am sure that is a big reason for shortening my learning curve with this.

A few questions/concerns did arise. Im not sure if working with the thinner orifice means my pressure needs to be higher than recommended, but I seemed to encounter a blockage every few doors. The fan pattern would deform, and spray in a "V" pattern. I would twist the tip to the cleaning pattern and switch back and the problem would resolve itself for a while. My pressure was around 2200 psi for both primer and top. Second, the RAC X "hand tight" guard that was for the FF tip was false advertisement. Half way through the first top coat, a huge leaked occurred between the gun and guard and Proclassic went everywhere. This happen twice before I tightened down with a wrench. Not sure if I am too much of a chick and didn't tightened the guard enough or if this is a common problem. Either way I am going to treat it like every other guard I have and wrench it down a little. The last thing is that it must all be in the prep. Just like all painting projects. I treated the doors as I usually do, a repaint, minimal sanding and go. I thought that i use pro classic enough, I know how to work. This was wrong approach. The finish was good, very smooth, but I wished I would have caught the imperfections sooner. The boss man is gonna fix/replace the bulges. But the route red edges that were not clean and shavings that I sanded after prime coat were definitely on me. I'm sure the next one will go a lot smoother and I can get it in 1 light and 1 heavy coat in each of the prime/topcoat.

Sorry to ramble, just didn't wanted to show that I took the advice and figured an update was the right way to show appreciation:thumbsup:


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Way to go for it!
The blockages are due to either not straining your paint enough, and / or not having a fine finish filter in your gun handle. Using a small tip requires extra filtering. I think the filter you need is 100 mesh. Ask the folks at the paint store, and make sure to get the right one for your gun, as there are different types for different makes.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Just to make sure, I know you said you have sprayed before. When you got the clog, and turned the tip around, you did point the gun and squeeze the trigger right? Just making sure, that is the way to clear the tip, but shoot away from the door into a bucket or cardboard, my fav. 

Also, filters will help with the clogs. When using enamel, get the yellow, higher mesh filters instead of the standard white ones for the gun. That solves most clog problems. With hand tight guards, I have never had that issue you described.


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

As mentioned, small orfice tips require more filtering. You need a #100 mesh filter for your gun and straining the paint before spraying is good practice.
Make sure the threads on your gun are clean allowing the guard to properly screw all the the way back. Also, make sure the to replace the seal provided with your tip the old one may been worn.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

No matter what size tip I use I always use a 100 mesh filter for doors trim and cabs. Mainly because a clogged tip really throws a wrench in the works for the high sheens.


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## putlotson (Feb 22, 2012)

*Guard your finished work*



dan_s said:


> Searching for info brought me to this forum. I have an upcoming job that will require (14) 6-panel doors to be painted. Normally we paint (re-paint) the doors in place with a brush/mini roller and SW proclassic, with a light sanding in between coats. But with the number of doors to prime and paint I figured I will mask off the garage and shoot the doors.
> I have only been spraying with an airless for 2 years and usually only use it for exterior siding, so any advice would be appreciated. My plan is to spray SW multi purpose primer with a 311 tip. This is our most used primer and kind of the go to. Sand and then spray pro classic semi with a 211 FF tip. The pump is a Titan 440i. I plan 2 coats for the primer and 2-3 light coats of the PC.
> Thanks for any and all responses


Wow! You've got a lot of useful advice here. Wish I had that. I agree with all the basics here wider fan, up & down one direction etc. Here are a few things I didn't see in the stuff. 1. Lighting, lighting lighting. Doors are usually white. Painting a lot of them can be like working in a snow storm. I hang 300 W bulbs from the strips on the top of the doors. 2. Dust and Debris The most common issues are debris stuck to the bottom of your doors. Keep them on strips and vacuum or blow compressed air. I prefer compressed air. Don't forget to blow out the knob holes. 3. Every body gets runs at first but also check for Dry Spots. Watch the top right or left sides for dry spots you tend to get after you put too much paint on the first batch. Happens because you either get gun shy or you are looking towards the next pass instead of where your paint is going. 4. Last but probably the most important. Guard Your Finished Work! Ha ha. Who hasn't completed a batch of doors and gone home. The next day you discover the carpenter wanted to cut wood in the garage and he put your doors in a pile. Ha ha now you have one honking huge ice cream cookie!


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## putlotson (Feb 22, 2012)

*Setup*

Not a great pic but this setup usually works for me. Project had 50 doors. Did half on each floor to avoid carrying up and down. Never spray oil around hot lights or hot anything but thankfully those days are over! If you have to protect the ceiling you can throw cardboard on top.


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## dan_s (Dec 20, 2013)

*wow, again great advice for future use*



MikeCalifornia said:


> Just to make sure, I know you said you have sprayed before. When you got the clog, and turned the tip around, you did point the gun and squeeze the trigger right? Just making sure, that is the way to clear the tip, but shoot away from the door into a bucket or cardboard, my fav.
> 
> Also, filters will help with the clogs. When using enamel, get the yellow, higher mesh filters instead of the standard white ones for the gun. That solves most clog problems. With hand tight guards, I have never had that issue you described.


Yep that was it, just like spraying for hours. Reverse the tip and spray back in my supply/back rolling pail



Damon T said:


> Way to go for it!
> The blockages are due to either not straining your paint enough, and / or not having a fine finish filter in your gun handle. Using a small tip requires extra filtering. I think the filter you need is 100 mesh. Ask the folks at the paint store, and make sure to get the right one for your gun, as there are different types for different makes.


Good advice, Im sure that was the cause. I had my normal (white) filter in it. I will be sure to catch that next time




putlotson said:


> Wow! You've got a lot of useful advice here. Wish I had that. I agree with all the basics here wider fan, up & down one direction etc. Here are a few things I didn't see in the stuff. 1. Lighting, lighting lighting. Doors are usually white. Painting a lot of them can be like working in a snow storm. I hang 300 W bulbs from the strips on the top of the doors. 2. Dust and Debris The most common issues are debris stuck to the bottom of your doors. Keep them on strips and vacuum or blow compressed air. I prefer compressed air. Don't forget to blow out the knob holes. 3. Every body gets runs at first but also check for Dry Spots. Watch the top right or left sides for dry spots you tend to get after you put too much paint on the first batch. Happens because you either get gun shy or you are looking towards the next pass instead of where your paint is going. 4. Last but probably the most important. Guard Your Finished Work! Ha ha. Who hasn't completed a batch of doors and gone home. The next day you discover the carpenter wanted to cut wood in the garage and he put your doors in a pile. Ha ha now you have one honking huge ice cream cookie!


Lighting was definitely a big reason I did not get a adequate prep before my first prime pass. Once the doors became white, I realized that I needed to sand more. As for debris, I thought I cleaned enough before hand, but realized that some dust was kicked up at the bottom of the doors. No runs really occurred, but I did have the dry spots were wood was still noticeable. Usually happened like you mentioned on the first or last pass. As far a protecting my work.......well that was a different story. The 60 degree day we had melted the snow and brought 3-4'' of rain. I did not have the foresight to put the doors up off the ground. So in addition to having the paper on the floor stick to the doors, I also had some water to deal with. I went back today to check on them and ended up moving the doors to a dryer place. I think the paint dried enough that the water was not a factor, but I will make sure to get the doors on some 1X's next time




putlotson said:


> Not a great pic but this setup usually works for me. Project had 50 doors. Did half on each floor to avoid carrying up and down. Never spray oil around hot lights or hot anything but thankfully those days are over! If you have to protect the ceiling you can throw cardboard on top.


Same setup I had, next time I will put wood under the bottom as well


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## putlotson (Feb 22, 2012)

dan_s said:


> Yep that was it, just like spraying for hours. Reverse the tip and spray back in my supply/back rolling pail
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow! Sounds like you endured a lot at once! I use a 300watt incandescent bulb in a clamp on trouble light I get for $15. It has a very lightweight extension so I don't have to drag a 14 gauge around. Over each bulb I fit a wire leaf catcher for use in rain gutters. It acts as a heat sink and fall protection. If you accidentally touch it you don't get burned. If it hits the floor it doesn't break (usually). You have to get used to them though and be very careful. Like any hot light they are a hazard. I'll see if I have a picture. As far as dust goes clean it however you want, set up your doors and spray the 1st coat. NOW you have dryfall dust on the floor (the dry paint that bounced off) and the wind force and vacuum created by your 2nd coat's spray stream is going to throw some back on the wet door. Rather than vacuuming each time I find it's easier to blow it away with an air compressor. They are cheap to buy (used?) and are very useful when spraying especially new construction. The strips under the doors allow both the compressor's air and the sprayer's air to move the dust away from your work area. With your doors up on strips the paint won't puddle at the bottom either.


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## putlotson (Feb 22, 2012)

*Finishing light*

2 Clamp on Finishing lights. Each costs about $15 to make. 300 watt bulb with a wire (not plastic) gutter leaf catcher with it's "fingers" bent outwards and then snapped onto the bulb. It adds fall protection and burn protection. USE WITH CAUTION! as hot like any work light. Will melt plastic, ignite fumes etc. Always unplug and or put away when not using.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

putlotson said:


> 2 Clamp on Finishing lights. Each costs about $15 to make. 300 watt bulb with a wire (not plastic) gutter leaf catcher with it's "fingers" bent outwards and then snapped onto the bulb. It adds fall protection and burn protection. USE WITH CAUTION! as hot like any work light. Will melt plastic, ignite fumes etc. Always unplug and or put away when not using.



That's the same lights I use minus the leaf catcher rig up. Good idea.


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## wantpjw (Nov 2, 2008)

*spraying doors*

spraying is only the easy part. set up is key to being fast and good. plastic ,drop and mask up a spray booth in the garage. plastic walls and make and opening by over lapping the plastic at the entry door pull the hinges from the doors and felt tip in the hinge area numbers as in 1 2 3 etc. tape the hings areas so paint doesn't fill the routed area up or the doors wont go back together the way they where. wont close right. take 1x2 boards lay them down on the floor almost as wide as the doors in rows of 2 Secure them with more 1x2,s screwed into the tops of the doors as you set them up start with 2 doors and then run more 1x2 off the last door on to the next door etc etc set the doors up on top of the 1x2 in a zig zag when your done the doors should be strait in a row like a bunch of WWWWWW,s. make sure you after you have a couple up you stand between them and you have enough room to spray strait into the inside edge where its the hardest angle to get to. once all the doors are up sanding dusting and painting are a breeze. when your all done with the doors simply plastic them up with clean plastic and go do your casing and such .remember not to paint the hinge areas and number the doors .its less stress full lol


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