# New Drywall



## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

What is your favorite primer for new drywall and why? I have tried many of them and believe it or not we like Glidden Gripper sold at the Depot. I hate buy buying paint at the Depot even if it's just primer. Just today the guy thought I was speaking Chinese when I asked him to tint primer. I have also tried most everything SW sells and have adhesion issues with their primers. I like the SW high build "Builders Solution" but that's only sold in 5's here.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Builtmany said:


> What is your favorite primer for new drywall and why? I have tried many of them and believe it or not we like Glidden Gripper sold at the Depot. I hate buy buying paint at the Depot even if it's just primer. Just today the guy thought I was speaking Chinese when I asked him to tint primer. I have also tried most everything SW sells and have adhesion issues with their primers. I like the SW high build "Builders Solution" but that's only sold in 5's here.


I normally use 6-2


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> I normally use 6-2


My PPG dealer stopped selling PPG now just has Coranado. I agree 6-2 is a nice product.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I like the Super Spec 253 undercoater. Probably the most expensive of the products mentioned so far. Seals well and good finish holdout. 

Funny though, seems like I rarely sell primer anymore. If its NC, it gets hit twice with a high build flat. Unless there's a finish going over new drywall most people don't prime.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

We normally put an eggshell finish on walls where I find a good primer is key.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Builtmany said:


> We normally put an eggshell finish on walls where I find a good primer is key.


PPG 6-2 or BM 253, both good. I still like the 253 better, seems a bit heavier. I don't know SW primers so I can't make a comparison.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> I don't know SW primers so I can't make a comparison.


I don't really like any of the SW primers. I will try the BM primer on next job.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

My favorite primer for nc is Duron NC high build. Super Spec is a great one as well.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Put me down for 6-2 followed by 253. 6-2 does not work for final coat on textured ceilings if you do the prime and done thing on those ( too much sheen).


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> My favorite primer for nc is Duron NC high build. Super Spec is a great one as well.



Sounds good but for some reason Duron products stop in South Jersey and don't go any farther north. Next time I'm in S Jersey I would like to try it no doubt.


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## paratrooper (Mar 6, 2009)

I do a lot of eggshell and satin finishes for new construction and use a few different primers: SW drywall primer, Kilz premium water-based primer and SW CHB flat. They all sand well and create a very even shine when given proper time to cure. I've found that the finish will be very uniform if the primer is properly sanded and cleaned prior to topcoating.

You shouldn't have any problems with adhesion on new drywall. Try mopping/vacuuming/dusting the bare drywall prior to priming.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Gardz


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

SOMETHING has changed the past few years ...

It used to be a simple paint job, with -maybe- a stain-blocking primer was enough. These days, though, you wind up with wildly different 'shine' between the drywall and the sanded seams. Even the drywall itself seems to have a different texture than it used to have.

The differences might not show when you have good light and are looking right at it, but look from an edge, as you do in a hallway, and it's "stripe city."

For small repairs I've been "priming" the area with a dilute joint compound / water mix. Now, with several larger areas to do, I'm looking at dedicated primers. The USG product has a good rep, but isn't the easiest to find. USG sure is proud of their stuff, too.


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## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

I like 253 and Pro Block plus I did use some Duron back in the day but I cant remember the product line. I do like most all Zinsser products too for the right applications.


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## Ace Painting (Jan 11, 2011)

I also like the gripper.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

prototype66 said:


> . I do like most all Zinsser products too for the right applications.


Hows the Zinsser Prime Coat on new drywall? It may just be a Depot low line product as I don't see much info online.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Gardz and bullseye interior


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Builtmany said:


> Hows the Zinsser Prime Coat on new drywall? It may just be a Depot low line product as I don't see much info online.


I think it's called Prime Coat 2. JP did a nice write up of it. I've used it a few times and find it very versatile, and priced nicely too.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Damon T said:


> I think it's called Prime Coat 2. JP did a nice write up of it. I've used it a few times and find it very versatile, and priced nicely too.


Yes I did see that write up from JP when I did a Google search. It's still just a Depot product and that makes it score a few points lower from the start.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Maybe it's just a depot line, or maybe it's labeled as something else in the paint stores. Lowes sells Zinsser 123 plus, which is the same product as Smartprime (I get this directly from the Zinsser rep). Perhaps the same for smart prime 2. If so I would guess its the same as bulls-eye water base, though that's just a guess. They claim the same features and benefits, and have a similar price point.


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## mblosik (Jan 3, 2009)

SW's Brilliance. self priming. heavy bodied...covers in one coat. used it on a ktichen ceiling with knockdown without issue. expensive, but worth it....


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

On raw dryall 1st. coat sheetrock primer works great or sheetrock tuf hide.valspar muti purpose also.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Any latex drywall primer/sealer is fine with me...It's always 1 prime and 2 finish with me anyways...I've never had a problem...The finish coat is the most important thing.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

JoseyWales said:


> Any latex drywall primer/sealer is fine with me...It's always 1 prime and 2 finish with me anyways...I've never had a problem...The finish coat is the most important thing.


The finish coat is only as good as the base it covers.Some primers like I listed above our special primers formulated for naked drywall and help hide joint flashing and photographing due to the difference of the mud and paper.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I like using watered down flat


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

My preference is to skip the primer coat altogether so I can go straight to a nice solid finish using behr ultra. Saves a bunch of labor, nicer uniform finish, equalizes porosity better, plus great adhesion and stuff. Not only that but it frees up a day so we could be making money elsewhere.

House primed today for example: 1700 sq ft Used 8 gallons to first coat it (prime it).

8 gallons BEHR ULTRA $220 plus tax
8 gallons of a decent primer $125 (but still doesn't provide as nice of finish)

Difference of 97 bucks on first coat prime.

Total job will be 16 gallons of Ultra at $440

vs

8 gallons of primer at $125
8 gallons of 1st coat paint (insert your price)
8 gallons of 2nd coat paint (insert your price)

plus

labor to apply 8 gallons of primer.

In its minimalist form equates to:
Skip day of labor for primer coat $520
Skip primer material costs $125
$645


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> My preference is to skip the primer coat altogether so I can go straight to a nice solid finish using behr ultra. Saves a bunch of labor, nicer uniform finish, equalizes porosity better, plus great adhesion and stuff. Not only that but it frees up a day so we could be making money elsewhere.
> 
> House primed today for example: 1700 sq ft Used 8 gallons to first coat it (prime it).
> 
> ...


Looks great.


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## NaplesPainter (Aug 3, 2011)

New Drywall - SW Preprite Hi-Build
Repaint -2 Coats of Finish unless it's an ultradeep base then we'll prime


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I can see the merits of both systems, prime/topcoat and also just topcoat.

The thing with topcoat only is there can be problems with uniformity and proper build without a good primer, depending on the condition of the drywall work and expectations.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

We ran a five of the Glidden High Build recently for comparison. I'll take some pics of that tomorrow. Those two are similar in performance leaving virtually the same smooth finish without fuzzing up the board much at all, if any. 

The two high builds are also very forgiving on how you roll them (within reason). Some sloppy rolling is ok and no need to lay it off nice because it pulls nice and tight when dry leaving a nice surface to sand but, adhesion is still an issue with both, as is equalizing the porosity between mud and board. 

At first glance they both appear to have everything equalized but the true test always reveals itself the moment you put wet paint over it. Plus, with a quality paint, the high build is somewhat redundant and in many of our tests, fail in adhesion and doing a good job at equalizing everything as one vs straight paint to the wall which has proven very effective at accomplishing that.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

8 gallons? wow


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> I can see the merits of both systems, prime/topcoat and also just topcoat.
> 
> The thing with topcoat only is there can be problems with uniformity and proper build without a good primer, depending on the condition of the drywall work and expectations.


Very true TJ. Not many paints direct to new board are capable of equalizing porosity, very few in fact. My old favorite paint prior to Ultra did but now it doesn't in recent tests. Too soon to really speak much about it other than initial observations. 

I guess in flat paint scenarios, there are far more options but its a new game when sheen is involved on new smooth board.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> 8 gallons? wow


What you mean?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> What you mean?


Thats a small quantity.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Thats a small quantity.


Efficiency shouldn't surprise you.  I don't overlap the placement of the loads, I park them next to the last one then the two are blended with an almost empty cover. 

This is two loads of paint covering 7.5' at 9' ceiling height. The second load is distributed over a predetermined area and blended vertically stopping shy of the floor and ceiling. This eliminates heavy rolling at the ceiling or top of base. 

My strategy for example: this is a 12' long wall. I know how much a single load will get me so I count them off, in this case, as 3 loads to get to the corner but stopping a roller width shy of the corner. Then I treat the end and the beginning of the next wall as a load. Then I repeat the process by guestimating how many loads I need to get down the wall. By not overlapping the placement of the load allows me to roll more efficient because my motion is always forward by not overlapping.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

AS you know by now Im a big behr fan.I have never tried the Ultra yet on raw drywall.Iv'e just used it on repaints.Thanks for that great info Jack.They say every picture tells a story and this is just a prime example.:notworthy:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> 8 gallons BEHR ULTRA $220 plus tax
> 8 gallons of a decent primer $125 (but still doesn't provide as nice of finish)
> 
> Difference of 97 bucks on first coat prime.
> ...


Jack

Priming a 1700 sf nc house with just 8 gallons of Behr sounds like more than efficiency. 

The lines above in bold would not hold true for paints that I use. We have never, ever had to use the same amount of paint per coat as primer. And each successive finish coat (on any surface) the quantity used would be less each time.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

So if I prime with Behr to a color close to the Aura I want to use, will this be a good thing?
Save me money so i only have to use 1 coat of the good stuff?
:thumbup:


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

Jack are you saying that it is a thing of the past that a drywall primer should be flat in sheen?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I think he is saying that drywall primer should be a thing of the past. I do agree with his conclusion that ultra has very good film build, and porosity sealing properties. 

Just in a few years it will have to change due to voc regs. Man that paint stinks.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Guess could explain a bit more. The gap between the two loads is for demonstration (for the pic) so it can be seen talking about it. 

When I roll, the next load is distributed over section 2 evenly (in this example) until I feel the roller is about empty, then I work back to tie into the previous section barely overlapping. Then tie up loose ends at the ceiling and floor with my final passes to leave that section. All happens really fast with minimal passes and emphasis on never reworking any area twice. Eliminates recoating areas unnecessarily which uses up paint.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

BrushJockey said:


> So if I prime with Behr to a color close to the Aura I want to use, will this be a good thing?
> Save me money so i only have to use 1 coat of the good stuff?
> :thumbup:


haha I like your thinking on that.. never tried it but I bet it would work.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Julian&co said:


> Jack are you saying that it is a thing of the past that a drywall primer should be flat in sheen?


The way I see it, a drywall primer should do one specific thing if you are going to make that process an extra step and that is to tie all the board and mud as one surface, to provide a solid foundation for paint. I have yet to see that happen. This is why stay far clear of primer but I have not tried them all and there are new ones on the market too. Plus some obvious changes with others. New drywall is one area I focus much of my time. I'm shocked at some of the finishes I see that have 1 primer, 2 finish. Seems like an awful lot of time and material to produce anything short of a nice finish. After all, that IS why guys use primer.

I think many flat paints today are capable of producing a nice finish over bare drywall in 2 coats.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> My preference is to skip the primer coat altogether so I can go straight to a nice solid finish using behr ultra. Saves a bunch of labor, nicer uniform finish, equalizes porosity better, plus great adhesion and stuff. Not only that but it frees up a day so we could be making money elsewhere.


Dude. Really?


mudbone said:


> They say every picture tells a story and this is just a prime example.:notworthy:


Yes mudbone they do. Here is a pic for you. Just the unprimed truth


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Tried to use regal select pearl as self priming over repairs, no go on that. Repairs flashed somewhat. Not sure if aura would would have worked. Never tried satin as self priming before.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Dan

Looks like a porosity seal failure in the mud.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

That actually looks pretty cool Dan.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

*Just around the Bend.*

So Bender when said this is the unprimed truth I don't get it.Behr ultra like Jack was referring to is a paint and primer-n-primer in 1.So its not like using a topcoat only on raw sheetrock.Are these pics that you show evidence of which?As far as I can tell from pics looks like paint failure due to debonding on the mudded areas which could have been caused for a number of reasons.For example wet seams not allowed to cure out completely,dusty seams,etc...So if every picture tells a story whats the ending here?Thanks.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm also in the 6-2 camp. Been using it for years and am happy with the performance. Don't see a need to experiment with other primers as of right now.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I'm also in the 6-2 camp. Been using it for years and am happy with the performance. Don't see a need to experiment with other primers as of right now.


I'm sorry I'm not following you here.6-2? Please explain. What am I missing?Thanks.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

PPG's 6-2 I presume.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

253 for me, all day long.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

mudbone said:


> I'm sorry I'm not following you here.6-2? Please explain. What am I missing?Thanks.


PPGs primer.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

6-2 is a great primer for the job but stores here don't seem to have PPG products any longer. BM & SW run my state, the PPG guys failed.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have not tried and SW primers. But, as long as you do not shoot the primer on textured ceilings and call them done, 6-2 is tops followed by 253. Once we started using 6-2, I stopped looking for a better drywall primer.

6-2 sprayed and backrolled (one coat) looks better than the typical blow and go eggshell on everything new paint job. More solid, more even sheen, etc. It paints over well and has good hold out (probably aided by its slight sheen). Sands better than 253.

253 is a good product as well, just prefer the 6-2.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Builtmany said:


> 6-2 is a great primer for the job but stores here don't seem to have PPG products any longer. BM & SW run my state, the PPG guys failed.


I'm in the same boat.Sw runs my city. I would have to drive 100 mile rd trip just to try it out. :no:


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## playedout6 (Apr 27, 2009)

We use 6-2 PPG . We used to do a lot of new homes with just 2 coats of CIL 9490 Eggshell[10 + years ago] which was a GREAT product that covered good in 2 coats . The problem was that it became too expensive and we shifted to PPG 6-2 and then 2 top coats of an eggshell from a few different stores depending where we are working or unless the customer has one that they prefer .


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

How much a gallon of 6-2 go for, or a five?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I would think around 15-18 a gal. Its been a while since i have used it.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

mudbone said:


> I'm in the same boat.Sw runs my city. I would have to drive 100 mile rd trip just to try it out. :no:


yes , but HD is just around the corner:whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

chrisn said:


> yes , but HD is just around the corner:whistling2:


 Thanks for reminding me.That is the truest value.:thumbsup:


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

DeanV said:


> I have not tried and SW primers. But, as long as you do not shoot the primer on textured ceilings and call them done, 6-2 is tops followed by 253. Once we started using 6-2, I stopped looking for a better drywall primer.
> 
> 6-2 sprayed and backrolled (one coat) looks better than the typical blow and go eggshell on everything new paint job. More solid, more even sheen, etc. It paints over well and has good hold out (probably aided by its slight sheen). Sands better than 253.
> 
> 253 is a good product as well, just prefer the 6-2.


Have to agree. 6-2 works great for me:yes:


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## playedout6 (Apr 27, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> How much a gallon of 6-2 go for, or a five?


 The retail price jumps around like crazy here in the Maritimes . Our price is 52.50 for a bucket or 12.00 by the can /3.66 liters Canadian Metric . How does that compare to the US pricing ?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

While we are on the subject of primers, I will hide my embarrassment in this isolated thread by not starting a new one to ask this question:

What do you guys mean by "hold out"? I've heard it before but don't know exactly what it means. Thanks.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Hold out for me would be stopping your top coat from absorbing. It is especially important for enamels where you are trying to build a nice even film.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> Hold out for me would be stopping your top coat from absorbing. It is especially important for enamels where you are trying to build a nice even film.


Thanks for the response. 

I guess for me this attribute goes hand in hand with how well it seals in the first place. I do know sealing performance varies greatly with the product used.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I've been very impressed with Zinnser's Bullseye interior primer. 

Seals well, sands excellent, incredible adhesion (not just with drywall but with tougher surfaces), drys fast.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

playedout6 said:


> The retail price jumps around like crazy here in the Maritimes . Our price is 52.50 for a bucket or 12.00 by the can /3.66 liters Canadian Metric . How does that compare to the US pricing ?


We have a place 5 mins away, I'll check pricing tomorrow and try 6-2 and 253 on the next prime. If it works, in theory then one tinted coat of either 6-2 or 253 and one coat ULTRA should work. Not the best option, but an option. ULTRA only needs bit of help on new board to look finished but my main concern is my primer needs to stick better than the paint. 

That is sort of like working a solution backwards if you think about it. In this case, IMO, primer would need to work better than ULTRA direct to bare board. 

That reminds me, anyone ever notice the problem with 'tape tests'? If only we applied tape and removed it immediately, unfortunately tape remains on the surface sometimes for days (seen below) or weeks and pulling that tape is not the same as applying tape and removing it. Some primers fail the apply it, remove it method and even though the paint sticks great to the primer, both end up pulling off together on new drywall.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> While we are on the subject of primers, I will hide my embarrassment in this isolated thread by not starting a new one to ask this question:
> 
> What do you guys mean by "hold out"? I've heard it before but don't know exactly what it means. Thanks.


hmm I have great pics of hold out examples. I'll try to hunt them down. The last major drywall primer test I did exposed all sorts of variables with primers in a side-by-side test and hold-out was one that was very noticeable. In this case, this thread shows ULTRA has good hold-out on bare board as-is in comparison to the drywall primer below. The satin finish remains solid and true to its finish appearance. The 2nd coat can only become better in comparison to applying a sheen over some flat primers where you ultimately can lose sheen into the primer then the 2nd coat of finish flashes when you touch it up because 2 solid coats of paint on new drywall is not the same as 2 on a piece of glass. Often in that scenario, the touch-up coat made brings a truer sheen because now the surface has 3 coats over a primer for example. Its simply more solid now and truly shows how the primer failed on hold-out.



vs


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

JP said:
 

> We have a place 5 mins away, I'll check pricing tomorrow and try 6-2 and 253 on the next prime. If it works, in theory then one tinted coat of either 6-2 or 253 and one coat ULTRA should work. Not the best option, but an option. ULTRA only needs bit of help on new board to look finished but my main concern is my primer needs to stick better than the paint.


1 prime and 1 finish is standard protocol around here. You would go broke with 1prime and 2 finishes. Same reason we prime with $12.00 primer and not $26.00 paint.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

We ran 253 and Regal almost exclusively for about 13 years and never had problems in primer and 2 coats. 

Honestly, I think where guys run into issues is when they try to save a few bucks on primer and wall paint. Its not worth it. The labor of rework is not worth the perceived material savings. 

Sometimes I think guys blame primer for not being able to make subpar paint look perfect.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

What I find ironic is that people complain about touch ups with certain paints and paint companies even go as far as proving a solution to achieve best touch-up ability on the back of the can when the problem often lies with the product that was recommended under it. Bottom line is, if you take any paint and roll over an area with half primer, half Gardz… you'll get two different sheens often including flat paints. 

If dry-downs are done on gloss stock all day long, thats one thing but to achieve those results on the job is something entirely different.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> What I find ironic is that people complain about touch ups with certain paints and paint companies even go as far as proving a solution to achieve best touch-up ability on the back of the can when the problem often lies with the product that was recommended under it. Bottom line is, if you take any paint and roll over an area with half primer, half Gardz… you'll get two different sheens often including flat paints.
> 
> If dry-downs are done on gloss stock all day long, thats one thing but to achieve those results on the job is something entirely different.


Alot of what you are describing, especially within the discipline of touch ups, is operator error, not product. I have let guys go who had no concept of touch ups other than the concept of just do it fast. Touch ups come in several flavors, each requiring its own approach. If guys dont even know the flavors, they wont stand a chance on the approach, other than luck. 

Products cant be so good that they compensate for incompetence or lack of skill.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I must be spoiled by my process. When foundation is correct, you can paint over the surface as many times as you want and it will never take on any other appearance. If it does then its usually the paint and the fix is experimental, trickery and usually involves a hat and magic wand and probably more luck than anything.

My previous post was largely based on observations with 1 prime 1 finish scenarios which ultimately are not at full sheen yet using only one coat before a touch up is even performed. Not to exclude 1 prime, 2 finish scenarios, those are common too. 

I'd exclude Duration from this as it simply builds on itself. Duration happens to be one of the paints with some touch-up tips on the back of the can. My tip is reduce it, cross fingers, turn off lights.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> I must be spoiled by my process.


Whatever works for you, your jobs, your customers.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Bender said:


> You would go broke with 1prime and 2 finishes. Same reason we prime with $12.00 primer and not $26.00 paint.


So this is why I'm broke.


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## slapiton (Jul 28, 2007)

2 coats of topcoat paint over drywall is fine. We roll first coat, pole sand in between coats for more uniform surface and then final topcoat. Been doing this for years and not ever been called back to a job. Primer on new drywall is a waste of hrs and material costs. All walls depend on the light that shines on them. I can pick spots out on any wall whether it has been just top-coated twice or has been primed and top-coated just due to the light that shines on it. Good luck with the primer people, while your putting your first topcoat on were putting our 2nd topcoat on and moving to the next job.


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## Carl (Jun 18, 2011)

slapiton said:


> 2 coats of topcoat paint over drywall is fine. We roll first coat, pole sand in between coats for more uniform surface and then final topcoat. Been doing this for years and not ever been called back to a job. Primer on new drywall is a waste of hrs and material costs. All walls depend on the light that shines on them. I can pick spots out on any wall whether it has been just top-coated twice or has been primed and top-coated just due to the light that shines on it. Good luck with the primer people, while your putting your first topcoat on were putting our 2nd topcoat on and moving to the next job.


How can you say that primer is a waste of material cost? For me, primer costs $18 a gallon (123). My topcoat costs $42 a gallon (BM Regal Select). Not only this, I use less paint when painting over a good primer than I would using Regal Select over itself. So, seems to me the cheapest method in terms of material costs is 1 coat primer, I coat finish. Unless of course you are talking about flat paint, but even then it would be cheaper to use primer first because you will get a lot more distance with your topcoat over a primer. And, when you use a primer on drywall, you will get better adhesion. Sure, you can argue that adhesion isn't an issue when you are painting over new drywall, but do you know why paint peels off walls when you apply tape to the wall? It's because the original painter used flat paint as a primer. I know you don't care, but this could be a factor if someone were to apply stripes to the wall later or any number of other faux effects. Plus, if your walls are sealed well, you are going to have less flashing and it will be easier to avoid lap marks, stop and go marks and all the other problems painters run into when they are using a flat paint on walls and ceilings with critical light.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I just finished a new house where all the drywall got painted ultra white satin. 
I was curious about the new self priming paint, so I did one floor with two coats of the satin and another floor with one coat of PVA and one coat of the satin. 

The drywall was meticulously dusted and vacuumed. Initially (after a few days) the satin did not bond well to the joint compound. It would not pass a tape test. However after about two weeks cure time, I would pass a tape test. I did several in different locations. 

The PVA primed walls would pass a tape test after just two days dry time. 

In the end, I could tell no difference in appearance or adhesion between the primed and un primed walls. The only difference was the PVA was less than half the cost of the satin. 

The first pic is primed, the second is not.


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