# Filling finish Nail Holes in Fiber Cement Lap Siding



## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Brushing out my first Fiber Cement job. Beautiful barn.The siding is half factory primed/half factory finish yellow.

The carpenters did a good amount of face nailing with small finishing nails to complement the blind nailing. I've really been struggling trying to decide how to fill the finishing nail holes. Most of the research I have done says to use a "cementitious patching compound" type product. But I'm thinking that may be overkill for finsh nail holes.

I used caulk in some of the higher areas but don't really think that will look good down low. Especially if the finish has a little sheen. For such small holes would a light spackling compound work? There really is a bunch of em.

Anybody have a "bullet proof" go-to solution for those pesky finishing nail holes in fiber cement that is relatively quick, durable and will look good:whistling2:

If not then at least a practical solution?

Also, thinking about brushing Duration satin on the body, which I have never used. But since the trim trim will be SuperPaint satin, I'm not sure that combination will look good together. Maybe Aura would be a better choice for the body since I can get that in a low lustre.

All tips welcome!
And thank you.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Crawfords painters putty with some whitener added.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Brushing out my first Fiber Cement job. Beautiful barn.The siding is half factory primed/half factory finish yellow.
> 
> The carpenters did a good amount of face nailing with small finishing nails to complement the blind nailing. I've really been struggling trying to decide how to fill the finishing nail holes. Most of the research I have done says to use a "cementitious patching compound" type product. But I'm thinking that may be overkill for finsh nail holes.
> 
> ...


That will look great with some shine to it!

We use Crawfords exterior spackle to fill holes in our F/C, seems to work great.

It sounds like they messed up the installation, though. Where did they use that "good amount of face nailing" with finish nails. The only acceptable situation for finishing nails on F/C is for pin-backing where there's no framing, like where the siding meets corner boards, etc.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Gough said:


> That will look great with some shine to it!
> 
> We use Crawfords exterior spackle to fill holes in our F/C, seems to work great.
> 
> It sounds like they messed up the installation, though. Where did they use that "good amount of face nailing" with finish nails. The only acceptable situation for finishing nails on F/C is for pin-backing where there's no framing, like where the siding meets corner boards, etc.


I agree with what Gough said. Finish nails may rip right through that stuff. Roofing nails are what work best. I caulk around the nail heads and it works great.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

They blind nailed all the siding with the proper nails. Then they face nailed with finishing nails areas that were popping up a little, trying to tighten the lap and get it to lay down straight. I think the factory finished stuff was sitting around for at least a year covered up - leftovers from the house and maybe warped a little?

I'm afraid the siding may fail were they face nailed but I don't think there is anything I can do about it... real shame.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Gough said:


> That will look great with some shine to it!
> 
> Gough.. do you think Duration satin on the body and Super Paint satin on the trim would look ok, or would a low luster be better for the body with satin on the trim?
> 
> Thanks


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Even though the question was directed at Gough, satin seems to be the sheen of choice for siding around here now. I personally think it works and looks great. Although low luster is also a good choice. Perhaps a discussion with the HO is in order to determine if they have a preference. Satin on the trim for sure.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I set my difficult corners with stainless deck screws set a bit below surface and then caulk over the heads. It may show a bit more than finish nails - but those corners aren't going anywhere either.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

I have to wonder if trexx screws would work well in this situation as well? Carpenter I work with uses them alot in situations where he wants a good hold, but doesn't want a huge hole to fill.

They are kind of pricey though.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Gough said:
> 
> 
> > That will look great with some shine to it!
> ...


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Gough said:


> Lakesidex said:
> 
> 
> > To me, that would look great. Especially in areas where there is a bit of dust, that'll stay cleaner.
> ...


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

RH said:


> I set my difficult corners with stainless deck screws set a bit below surface and then caulk over the heads. It may show a bit more than finish nails - but those corners aren't going anywhere either.


We use the stainless fiber-cement screws from McFeely's.

My guess is that the carpenters in the O's situation high nailed the siding. That often leads to the lower edges being floppy. OTOH, they might have ended up with some siding out of the same run we got last year. We got a whole unit that was all cupped, as much as 1/2 inch across a 8 1/4 plank. In their defense, they did replace it. They did want assurances that the substandard material would be destroyed and not used for some other project, like the painter's new ladder storage shed, for instance.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Gough said:


> We use the stainless fiber-cement screws from McFeely's.
> 
> My guess is that the carpenters in the O's situation high nailed the siding. That often leads to the lower edges being floppy. OTOH, they might have ended up with some siding out of the same run we got last year. We got a whole unit that was all cupped, as much as 1/2 inch across a 8 1/4 plank. In their defense, they did replace it. They did want assurances that the substandard material would be destroyed and not used for some other project, like the painter's new ladder storage shed, for instance.


Yeah, like *THAT* might happen. :whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

RH said:


> Even though the question was directed at Gough, satin seems to be the sheen of choice for siding around here now. I personally think it works and looks great. Although low luster is also a good choice. Perhaps a discussion with the HO is in order to determine if they have a preference. Satin on the trim for sure.


Great RH. I would prefer to use the satin on the body. I guess I'm just an old-timer thinking a little higher gloss on the trim than the body is expected. 

I'm leaning toward brushing Duration on the body but don't really know what to expect from the product as far as workability is concerned. I here people mentioning Flotrol. Should I use that product just like thinning oil paint with thinner on an "as needed basis"? or can I just ad a splash of water to the Duration and keep going?


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Gough said:


> Lakesidex said:
> 
> 
> > To me, that would look great. Especially in areas where there is a bit of dust, that'll stay cleaner.
> ...


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Great RH. I would prefer to use the satin on the body. I guess I'm just an old-timer thinking a little higher gloss on the trim than the body is expected.
> 
> I'm leaning toward brushing Duration on the body but don't really know what to expect from the product as far as workability is concerned. I here people mentioning Flotrol. Should I use that product just like thinning oil paint with thinner on an "as needed basis"? or can I just ad a splash of water to the Duration and keep going?


Just experiment on what works best for you I guess. My take on the product is that it is an absolute dream to paint. I found I didn't need as much so perhaps use a little caution as to how much to purchase up front. 

You can certainly spray but when I last did my place I rolled and back brushed being certain to get the lower edges well and primed and painted the cut ends prior to installation (not a choice you have). That was about 15 years ago and I am just now considering repainting come next summer - and not because I need to - just ready for a color change.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Lakesidex said:


> Gough said:
> 
> 
> > There is a ton of dust on the barn already. The owner is a landscaper and is constantly driving his heavy equipment around the building...
> ...


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Thanks for sharing everyone. It certainly helps and I feel a lot better about moving forward. I will post pics.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

From my experiences with Duration is it seems to attract dirt like a magnet. Embeds itself into the surface.Maybe not so much color wise but white is terrible.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

So that being said I took a vacation from Duration!


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

We just did a couple of hardi houses (one new). On the new house we used dynaflex caulking on all the seems and nails, and sprayed and backrolled diamond satin. 

Thanks for considering me a blow and go Gough, that's mainly what we use on the bodies. Either diamond, or weathergaurd flat. That stuff will look new for 5-10 years


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Lakesidex, you should definitely do a wash (with cleaner) to get dirt off the building, siding, soffets, everything. You will have bad adhesion and mildew growing under the paint if you don't.

I think quad caulking is toughest product, best time saver for the nail holes. Use wd-40 on a rag to clean fingers instead of mineral spirits. 

Satin body, satin trim would look good.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> We just did a couple of hardi houses (one new). On the new house we used dynaflex caulking on all the seems and nails, and sprayed and backrolled diamond satin.
> 
> Thanks for considering me a blow and go Gough, that's mainly what we use on the bodies. Either diamond, or weathergaurd flat. That stuff will look new for 5-10 years


I realize you have to go with the local practice. What we see around here is the guys trying to push flat so they can powerwash one day, paint the next. Flat *can* hide a multitude of sins.


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## Masters Tile & Paint (Dec 30, 2009)

That fiberboard is not very thick and the trex screw heads are a bit small in my humble opinion. I agree with the previous poster who indicated using a fiber cement screw. They have a wider head on them that will allow you to countersink a bit without pulling through the board.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

Some pics of finished product. 

All factory finish yellow received 1 coat of duration. All factory primed gray received 2 coats. All brushed.

Duration satin was a pleasure to work with as long as I had the right ratio of floetrol and a spec of water to replace evaporation. Had to be real careful with flashing.

Thanks for all the help!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Looking real sharp!


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## Jpokey (Jun 8, 2017)

Looks great!! I love Durations.... never had a flashing issue. seems like you can do what you want with it and it looks good. 

working in the keys and have to bid a cement siding job with lots of face nailing. I have to admit i should have inspected it better but looks like some is primed and some is finished... This contractor wants one coat a-100 so Im concerned with hole filling.. they said use caulk but after shrinkage you know how that's going to look. and Im sure you will see every flash.. Imo I would bid for a latex type patch and sand holes. apply a coat of primer and one coat paint... But builders dont allow a budget for that kind of job... any suggestions... Thanks


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

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