# I hate polyurethane



## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I've been working on a stain project for a contractor who insisted I finish with polyurethane. No matter what I try it always looks gritty once it finally dries. I'd like to hear some alternatives or suggestions on how to get an acceptable finish coat with poly. Thanks PT.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

What brand are you using? Is it water or oil? Need more info about what your are doing exactly.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

SW wiping stain/Minwax fast drying semigloss. I also tried Cabot semigloss with similar grainy results. Contractor is supplying materials but I would try something else if I knew what to look for. I've used Minwax polycrylic before and thought it worked well but have been cautioned about compatibility with using it over oil stains.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Well, stop going to Home despot for supplies, for one.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

B.M. Stays Clear. Best I have used


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

painterman said:


> B.M. Stays Clear. Best I have used


Yup, I'm a big Stays Clear fan as well.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

BrushJockey said:


> Well, stop going to Home despot for supplies, for one.


 Where would you go? I guess that is my question in it's simplest form.....


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

I would say they sell BM at a BM dealer. Look on their website and see who sells it in your area. 

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/benjamin-moore-store-locator


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I personally like Zar Ultra Max. Easiest and best WB Poly I've ever used. 
I get it at a great paint store here, but I think Ace Hdwre also carries it.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

BrushJockey said:


> I personally like Zar Ultra Max. Easiest and best WB Poly I've ever used.
> I get it at a great paint store here, but I think Ace Hdwre also carries it.


Is the WB compatible with oil stains? The manufacturer usually says yes but I've heard of problems with compatibility.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Yes.

But I guess I should state the obvious. The stain needs to be dry.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I do a fair amount of poly work. Just completed some french door sidelights and casings (http://www.painttalk.com/f2/some-pics-newly-completed-job-22674/) that came out looking smooth as glass. Of course you need to do everything to properly prep the surface but aside from that I've found that once a brush is used to apply poly and then "cleaned" it will deposit dried residue in subsequent uses. There just doesn't seem to be a way to adequately clean them to prevent some of this from happening. Many years ago I tried using a disposable foam brush to see if the would work and have been using them specifically for this situation since. I have done a ton of poly work using them and every job has come out looking perfect. No brush marks, no grit - you just need to be careful of drip and sags because overloading can easily occur - especially in upper corners. I wouldn't use these things for anything else but for applying a coat of poly and then tossing they do an outstanding job.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

BTW - I prefer to use Old Masters Polyurethane, satin sheen.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

One of the biggest causes of a "gritty" surface is not allowing a full cure on the first base coats of poly. Both WB and regular poly should both sand to a dry dusty consistency when sanding.

Not a fan of foam brushes on large areas myself. A good all-purpose contractor grade brush will give you a smooth brush free surface if used properly. Clean it out after, and you can use it as either a stain brush or duster. Not so good for re-using for finishes again.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

researchhound said:


> BTW - I prefer to use Old Masters Polyurethane, satin sheen.


Varathane Diamond Coat floor poly was my "go to" for clear finishes. Nice consistency, good build and flow characteristics, and would hold up to darn near anything.


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## Red Truck (Feb 10, 2013)

Wolfgang said:


> Varathane Diamond Coat floor poly was my "go to" for clear finishes. Nice consistency, good build and flow characteristics, and would hold up to darn near anything.



I did a huge cabinet refinish this past year, and used Minwax high build poly. Had the same issues. Tried different brushes, tried foam, made sure not to shake the product....I am done using Minwax poly. I would like to try the BM


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

We have been busy refinishing cabs lately. We have brushed gallons of poly including minwax. Clean well. Brush consistently, let dry fully, sand and repeat. No issues with grit here. Make sure the poly has had a chance to cure before recoat. Subsequent coats will lay smoother. 

This was yesterday. (This pt app sucks. I cant get pictures to rotate correctly).


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

painterman said:


> B.M. Stays Clear. Best I have used


 Stay clear also of sw it sounds.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Zar Ultramax is my favorite poly. It is easy to work with, is very hard, and looks great. I have had no luck with Minwax poly.


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## wje (Apr 11, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> We have been busy refinishing cabs lately. We have brushed gallons of poly including minwax. Clean well. Brush consistently, let dry fully, sand and repeat. No issues with grit here. Make sure the poly has had a chance to cure before recoat. Subsequent coats will lay smoother.
> 
> This was yesterday. (This pt app sucks. I cant get pictures to rotate correctly).
> 
> ...


I see the sleeve monster got yea!


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## Stonehampaintdept (Jan 10, 2013)

BrushJockey said:


> I personally like Zar Ultra Max. Easiest and best WB Poly I've ever used.
> I get it at a great paint store here, but I think Ace Hdwre also carries it.


Zar is by far the best I've used. Ultra max.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Zar is Bizarre! Poly and their stains alike are great products.:yes:


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Thanks for the help guys. While we're on the subject, the same contractor has two wooden garage doors ordered and I might stain and finish them. Again, I've usually ended up using Minwax Spar Urethane (choices are limited in my area) but I would like to find better options. Any suggestions to help me start off on the right foot this time?


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## gabe (Apr 20, 2012)

For poly interior I like Fabulon oil. Exterior I would use Sikkens door and window. Also on interior I like seal coat followed by waterborne poly. If you are pre doing work I would not use waterborne . Boards will stick together


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Gwarel said:


> Minwax Spar Urethane (choices are limited in my area) but I would like to find better options. Any suggestions to help me start off on the right foot this time?


Look at Ace Hardware or Benjamin Moore for the products suggested in other posts. Minwax is definitely not the best choice.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

wje said:


> I see the sleeve monster got yea!


Thats my Todd. He specifically picked out these shirts. They are made sleeveless from the get go. I don't argue with a quality production monster.


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## wje (Apr 11, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> Thats my Todd. He specifically picked out these shirts. They are made sleeveless from the get go. I don't argue with a quality production monster.


I wouldn't either, he might eat your sleeves!


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