# New construction work flow with sprayer



## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

I am an experienced painter but I am limited to experience with brush, roller, and self contained airless sprayers for doors. I have a Graco 490 on the way and will be doing my first new construction interior with my new sprayer this week with latex wallboard primer and latex finish coats, both Mythic non-toxic paint.

Here is my proposed work flow. Do you see any problems or have any suggestions to improve it?:

1) Mask all windows and doors with 3M masking paper and tape.

2) Spray the lids and walls with unthinned primer using a Graco Rac X 517 tip and a 20" extension wand (paint calls for a 0.015 - 0,021 tip). One room at a time, lids, then walls.

3) Spray the lids and closets with 2 unthinned flat finish coats with a Rac X 517 tip (paint calls for a 0.015 - 0.021 tip), no masking, slight overspray at the top of the walls.

4) After trim carpentry sparay unthinned semi-gloss on all door frames, trim and window sills using masking tape and paper to protect the primed walls from overspray. What tip do you suggest?

5) Spray all doors in the garage with semi-gloss using hinge "stands". What tip do you suggest?

6) Brush cut and roll the finish coats on the walls.

Thanks,

George


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Uh huh. Tell me more.


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Paradigmzz said:


> Uh huh. Tell me more.


I am afraid I don't understand.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

I suggest to get the trim put up before working. When trim, base and case is up, it can be caulked, nail holes filled and sprayed with a slightly better primer for the whole project. Let dry and spray your ceilings, closets, doors and trim with the flat paint. I spray all the doors and trim to build up a first coat. Brush and roll walls. Keep doors in one room, run plastic film on ceiling to protect. Spray doors with final coat. Since your walls have been sealed with a better primer/sealer you do not have to put them in the garage and the overspray on the walls will not flash once you brush and roll. Last, brush in trim,base and case. Of course this system can be adjusted to meet your needs. We always prefer to have all trim up. This elimates multiple trips back after other trademen are finished.


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

Looks like a page outta my playbook. I stopped spraying walls first coat at prime stage because trades did so much damage before final paint stage anyway. 

Ceilings I always roll final coat so I can touch up with a roller after cabinet maker and electricians mess it up with installs. Also, 517 may need a back roll for no runs in closets after the prime, especially if humidity is high where u are. although, I'd back roll prime coat as well.

I've never used Mythic so I dont know. With Aura I use a 415 but spray doors lying horizontal with Speed Painting door deckers. No runs that way, especially in these new airtight houses in winter! Then I use a 311 or 312 on trim, sometimes a fft even. are you spraying base prior to install? That's always a good idea, then only need one coat with brush at the end and it will level nicely.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I about always spray and Backroll walls then ceiling on the first coat. If you go ceiling first the spray dust falls down on the bare rock and makes it gritty adding to how hard sanding walls is between coats,

It's always preferable to have trim installed prior to painting IMO for a lot of reasons.

.419 and .313 are my tips

We prime rock with finish. Two backrolled coats and nobody will ever know the difference..


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Do you ever have any problems when you prime bare sheetrock with the finish coat like print through/variations at the mud lines? ALso, in this case do you also prime the bare wood of the trim/base/etc with the same finish paint?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Cool gig. How long you been doing houses?


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)




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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

GeorgeG said:


> Do you ever have any problems when you prime bare sheetrock with the finish coat like print through/variations at the mud lines? ALso, in this case do you also prime the bare wood of the trim/base/etc with the same finish paint?


No. For the most part.
Yes. for the most part.
You always got to be ready to adjust though.


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Since 1974. Houses and industrial buildings.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

I had a long winded message about how we do it.

All in all you will find your own rhythm...........just make sure you have swept out the job extremely well prior to starting (dust and sawdust comes from all hidden nooks and crannys) 

Make sure you broom off all plaster joints or backroll first coat on walls and ceilings as the plaster dust is not nice to sand off once wall is dry.

Good luck.

And we use 517 for walls and ceilings. And try not to get too much wall finish on your timber work as it wont sand properly either.


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Thanks for the responses so far. I think that one of my biggest question is if you guys allow overspray onto the walls when spraying a higher sheen finish material on the trim?. IOW, is it worth the time to mask of trim to avoid this or do you find that most good quality latex wall paints over come any problems at the over spray areas?


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

GeorgeG said:


> Thanks for the responses so far. I think that one of my biggest question is if you guys allow overspray onto the walls when spraying a higher sheen finish material on the trim?. IOW, is it worth the time to mask of trim to avoid this or do you find that most good quality latex wall paints over come any problems at the over spray areas?



We don't spray trim over here (maybe panel doors, thats about it). We would seal it. Undercoat and gloss by hand I am afraid. A lot of builders over here hate sprays at the best of times.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I wouldn't mask off the walls unless I was going for the gusto meaning I had full finished the walls and was going to shoot the trim now and if I masked up the walls now and shot the trim then when I pull the paper I'm done. But, if it was my goal to shoot everything I'd usually full finish the trim and cover it, then shoot the walls. You can paint the whole place without touching a brush if you choose to do it that way. You just got to make that commitment and do it.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

GeorgeG said:


> Thanks for the responses so far. I think that one of my biggest question is if you guys allow overspray onto the walls when spraying a higher sheen finish material on the trim?. IOW, is it worth the time to mask of trim to avoid this or do you find that most good quality latex wall paints over come any problems at the over spray areas?


Masking around the trim can take some time. For me it depends on if the walls are textured or not. On smooth finish walls the build up from overspray will show more. I generally will prime and first coat the walls and ceiling prior to the trim package being installed. I back roll walls and ceilings on all coats. (I dont bother with closets) When doing this, I stay away from openings a bit to allow for the extra paint build up from spraying trim. Since your new to spraying try a 311 for trim. 

After I spray the trim package, I will come back and brush and roll my finish coat. Good luck :thumbsup:


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

GeorgeG said:


> Thanks for the responses so far. I think that one of my biggest question is if you guys allow overspray onto the walls when spraying a higher sheen finish material on the trim?. IOW, is it worth the time to mask of trim to avoid this or do you find that most good quality latex wall paints over come any problems at the over spray areas?


Not worth it for me, I'm doing 2 coats of premium wall paint after spraying trim though. I just sand to degloss the overspray. Did mask once though and it was real nice, just lots of time to mask.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Man, some of the replies.  Talk about arrogance.  Someone comes in and asks a few questions and gets BS replies. Why reply at all? I thought this site was supposed to be about painters helping painters?


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

GeorgeG said:


> Thanks for the responses so far. I think that one of my biggest question is if you guys allow overspray onto the walls when spraying a higher sheen finish material on the trim?. IOW, is it worth the time to mask of trim to avoid this or do you find that most good quality latex wall paints over come any problems at the over spray areas?


i like to prime the trim, doors and drywall at once with a high quality, hi build primer. I then spray the trim, mask it and spray the walls. Works well on textured walls with a good semi or matte, flat can be problematic, but I recently did one in Emerald Flat that turned out well. These pics are a basement using SW Sologloss and Promar. And yes, I gave my foreman **** for the excessive overspray, it can be done much tighter.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Awesome looking work Rob :thumbsup:


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Rob said:


> i like to prime the trim, doors and drywall at once with a high quality, hi build primer. I then spray the trim, mask it and spray the walls. Works well on textured walls with a good semi or matte, flat can be problematic, but I recently did one in Emerald Flat that turned out well. These pics are a basement using SW Sologloss and Promar. And yes, I gave my foreman **** for the excessive overspray, it can be done much tighter.


Hey Rob, what type of primer exactly? Zinsser 123 or other?

I always thought that spraying the trim paint onto the textured walls would fill the texture more, and if using an eggshell or any type of sheen paint on walls, then you would get a halo effect around doors. I think that's what the OP is concerned about. 

Interesting Woodland that you had the opposite take than me, that the smooth walls would be more problematic to overspray trim onto walls. It's funny how there's so many ways to skin a cat.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

Woodland said:


> Man, some of the replies.  Talk about arrogance.  Someone comes in and asks a few questions and gets BS replies. Why reply at all? I thought this site was supposed to be about painters helping painters?


Yep it's really sad the lack of maturity on this site. It's no wonder they have so many lurkers,they don't want to be made fun of and I can't blame them


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

Woodland said:


> Man, some of the replies.  Talk about arrogance.  Someone comes in and asks a few questions and gets BS replies. Why reply at all? I thought this site was supposed to be about painters helping painters?


Interesting perspective. I'm curious about how this post (which seems to be the only 'arrogant' post in this thread) helps the OP? We gotta remember there's as many systems as there are painters. Just gotta find what gets you the results you want. I wish that this forum had existed when I first started spraying in 1994. I took so long to learn by trial and error. Still learning things about the trade now, just way faster with PT!


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

Damon T said:


> Hey Rob, what type of primer exactly? Zinsser 123 or other?
> 
> I always thought that spraying the trim paint onto the textured walls would fill the texture more, and if using an eggshell or any type of sheen paint on walls, then you would get a halo effect around doors. I think that's what the OP is concerned about.
> 
> Interesting Woodland that you had the opposite take than me, that the smooth walls would be more problematic to overspray trim onto walls. It's funny how there's so many ways to skin a cat.



I will go with woodland on this one. The problems can be numerous. Like you illuded to you have to degloss the overspray, also when you cut in the wall you may lack coverage on a glossy surface (like trying to paint glass) so for us it's more trouble than its worth to spray woodwork. In a colder climate I wond about over coating gloss with low sheen and not getting teardrops and runs where the trim meets the wall. 

We have been back to a lot of homes where the painter has not sanded after spraying gloss onto the wall and the latex/acrylic is letting go!!!!!


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## Jtpaintalot (May 4, 2011)

I specialize in new construction and I suggest this method if possible : prime walls with sprayer and back roll. 2 ) poly windows with staple gun tight ! 3) spray and back roll ceilings x1 then just spray # 2 and spray and roll 3 if necessary. 3) sand walls with 120 grit. 4) cutin ceilings. Cut in x 2 where you have no trim. Away from windows ect. 5) get the carp to trim out. 6) come back fill and caulk trim. Take down doors. 6) sand / dust and vacuum. The cleaner the better! 7) mask of tile if gc must have tile in already. And spray primer on trim. 8) check for deficiencies and fix . 9 ) finish spraying trim. 10) light sand walls where needed and cut and roll by hand second coat. Finish roll x3 final in laundry , kit, bath living where mantle may be or built ins. 11) come back after trades beat the **** out of your nice work! Patch , sand /spot prime and do a final roll. Finally you're done get your cheque !!!


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## Jtpaintalot (May 4, 2011)

Oh I forgot pre spray baseboards before hardwood. Spray carpet room base in place. Topcoat base on hardwood area/ tile by hand!


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

HJ61 said:


> Interesting perspective. I'm curious about how this post (which seems to be the only 'arrogant' post in this thread) helps the OP?


I didnt even realize it was intended to help the OP or even directed towards the OP to begin with ? :blink:


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Rob said:


> i like to prime the trim, doors and drywall at once with a high quality, hi build primer. I then spray the trim, mask it and spray the walls. Works well on textured walls with a good semi or matte, flat can be problematic, but I recently did one in Emerald Flat that turned out well. These pics are a basement using SW Sologloss and Promar. And yes, I gave my foreman **** for the excessive overspray, it can be done much tighter.


Yea, that's alot of overspray, must have been a really wide tip. How do you mask the trim on the crown and base? 6in paper. How about those closet doors and trim, I see you shot the inside of the closet after the trim as well?


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

That is a lot of overspray but the finished job looks quite good. We can't get a real close up look so it's hard to tell if there are any halos or changes in texture/stipple, etc. Also, it would seem that you better be careful what goes over the top of a semi/gloss trim overspray or you better sand at least to be safe. Once you have a paint system worked out you can find what will cover that overspray without issue (forgiving topcoat, sticky primer like BIN, etc.). Given that I am trying a new paint system, I might just mask before trim to be sure that my walls are happy up to the trim and experiment in a closet or some sample boards to see what happens. This is a high end home and it needs to look tight.

As far as the comments on lousy posts. All technical forums have guys that get too wound up and should lighten up. The "criteria" police deciding if you or your question is worthy, etc. This OP grew up and worked in a construction family so he is pretty thick skinned and that stuff does not bother him, especially since plenty of constructive input keeps coming in. 

Thanks for all of the comments so far.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

If you're shooting both latex trim and walls shouldn't be any issue of adhesion. At least if you recoat within the cure cycle of a few weeks. 
Like you said tho, maybe best to go with what you know will work and experiment in closets etc for future reference. I have a friend who does very high end work, and he just told me the other day he just sprays primer (walls and ceilings) and 1st coat on ceilings and only back rolls last coat of ceilings. Then sprays trim, 2 coats oil semi usually, waiting 1/2 hour or so between coats, and finally mask off trim and cut and roll walls. Not sure if he seals the tape on trim since its just blue tape. I think he seals it with the flat ceiling paint.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

If i'm doing nc with paint grade trim I have all the trim up,spackle sand caulk,mask sweep and paint. I use a 1225 tip for all walls and ceilings. Atip that big can take some getting used to as well as a bigger pump but it makes for fast work. It's great for large ceilings where lap lines can be an issue.
I mask off the trim and shoot it and then get back into wall finish and spray touch up any overspray.
If lids are a different color I mask the walls and spray the lids.
If base trim is to sit on top of tile I prime and 1st coat it , by spray, then finish it by brush. The tile guys come back and grout caulk it.
If it is a stain pack Ido all of it in the garage and caulk it to the walls putty holes and t.u.the poly.
I stopped using lacquer several years ago cause I got tired of poisoning myself so now Iuse water base poly.


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## Westview (Jul 23, 2011)

Zoomer said:


> I suggest to get the trim put up before working. When trim, base and case is up, it can be caulked, nail holes filled and sprayed with a slightly better primer for the whole project. Let dry and spray your ceilings, closets, doors and trim with the flat paint. I spray all the doors and trim to build up a first coat. Brush and roll walls. Keep doors in one room, run plastic film on ceiling to protect. Spray doors with final coat. Since your walls have been sealed with a better primer/sealer you do not have to put them in the garage and the overspray on the walls will not flash once you brush and roll. Last, brush in trim,base and case. Of course this system can be adjusted to meet your needs. We always prefer to have all trim up. This elimates multiple trips back after other trademen are finished.


When does the floor get installed...


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Afterward. Good flooring pros will leave minimal if any scratches for touch up.


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## Westview (Jul 23, 2011)

Zoomer said:


> Afterward. Good flooring pros will leave minimal if any scratches for touch up.


Will the flooring guys come back to put the quarter round on? That would mean you would have to come back to paint the quarter round right? What happens if carpet is being installed? I'm mostly a repaint guy, trying to learn a few things.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

So you have to go back. Remember 99% of all painting has been done, if all the trim, doors, tile, cabinets and misc. have been installed. Better than going back after each and every trade is done with their work. Go back once or go back mutiple times. The GC we work for agree.


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## Westview (Jul 23, 2011)

Zoomer said:


> So you have to go back. Remember 99% of all painting has been done, if all the trim, doors, tile, cabinets and misc. have been installed. Better than going back after each and every trade is done with their work. Go back once or go back mutiple times. The GC we work for agree.


I may have some new construction coming up. I'm thinking I will give this a shot. The work flow makes sense. I guess you have to talk the woodwork guys in to coming back to put the quarter round on after the floor has been installed. I have a Titan Impact that has only been used a couple times. I'm dieing to get some good use out of it.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

All the best to you.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

Westview said:


> I may have some new construction coming up. I'm thinking I will give this a shot. The work flow makes sense. I guess you have to talk the woodwork guys in to coming back to put the quarter round on after the floor has been installed. I have a Titan Impact that has only been used a couple times. I'm dieing to get some good use out of it.



Can I just say if you have or have not done new work before, the builder or supervisor is the one that can make or break it for you money wise. If you know the supervisor or other trades on the job and you work well together.....you will do well. 

Have issues with supervisor or chippe on the job and your stuffed!!!!


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## Wutari (Nov 15, 2012)

Woodland said:


> Man, some of the replies.  Talk about arrogance.  Someone comes in and asks a few questions and gets BS replies. Why reply at all? I thought this site was supposed to be about painters helping painters?


Idk Wood they sound like reasonable responses to me dude. 

I always paint the walls first, then ceilings and I do trim last. I use Graco Rac X 617 on walls and ceilings, Rac X 410 on the doors and Rac X 308 on the baseboards and door frames. 

I'm an avid spray enthusiast I very rarely use a brush or roller (Usually only for touch up). If you do it properly you can get results like this:


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Wutari said:


> Idk Wood they sound like reasonable responses to me dude.
> 
> I always paint the walls first, then ceilings and I do trim last. I use Graco Rac X 617 on walls and ceilings, Rac X 410 on the doors and Rac X 308 on the baseboards and door frames.
> 
> I'm an avid spray enthusiast I very rarely use a brush or roller (Usually only for touch up). If you do it properly you can get results like this:


Nice work :thumbsup:


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

************


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Quote:

"I always paint the walls first, then ceilings and I do trim last. I use Graco Rac X 617 on walls and ceilings, Rac X 410 on the doors and Rac X 308 on the baseboards and door frames. 

I'm an avid spray enthusiast I very rarely use a brush or roller (Usually only for touch up). If you do it properly you can get results like this:"



Nice looking stuff! How and when do you mask?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Steve Richards said:


> ************


To quote Inspector Jacques Clouseau, "Not anymore."


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

So my work flow so far:

1) Spray lids and walls with primer.

2) Spray lids and closets with 2 finish coats, no masking.

3) Spray base, crown and doors in the garage (primer and first finish coat).

4) Mask and spray trim and crown (in place) after trim carpenter.

5) Brush paint or spray baseboard after flooring and base install.

6) Brush cut and hand roll walls with 2 finish coats.


Question: Should I back roll at step 1) or step 2)?


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

When did ceilings get the name lids. They are not called lids on blueprints. They are not called lids by people who will live or work in these spaces. A floor is called a floor. Call a ceiling what it is, A Ceiling! You don't give a written estimate to a homeowner and call them lids. 99.99% of homeowners will ask, What is a lid?. The generation before me called them ceilings. My grandfather, who started our company, called them ceilings. Remind me to put the ceiling back on the paint can when I'm done. Make sure to clean the "lid" fan blades. Dont forget to put the ceiling back on the mayonnaise jar.


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

Ceilings is it:

So my work flow so far:

1) Spray ceilings and walls with primer.

2) Spray ceilings and closets with 2 finish coats, no masking.

3) Spray base, crown and doors in the garage (primer and first finish coat).

4) Mask and spray trim and crown (in place) after trim carpenter.

5) Brush paint or spray baseboard after flooring and base install.

6) Brush cut and hand roll walls with 2 finish coats.


Question: Should I back roll at step 1) or step 2)?


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

GeorgeG said:


> Ceilings is it:
> 
> So my work flow so far:
> 
> ...


I would backroll the primer. I dont backroll closets.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

7) Sand textured walls :whistling2:


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## Wutari (Nov 15, 2012)

GeorgeG said:


> Quote:
> 
> "I always paint the walls first, then ceilings and I do trim last. I use Graco Rac X 617 on walls and ceilings, Rac X 410 on the doors and Rac X 308 on the baseboards and door frames.
> 
> ...


I mask the day after I spray finish on the walls. I use a hand masker with 4' 3M plastic for the ceilings, 6" masker for the base and 12" masker for the frames.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Wutari said:


> I mask the day after I spray finish on the walls. I use a hand masker with 4' 3M plastic for the ceilings, 6" masker for the base and 12" masker for the frames.


 What tape are you using? No problems with paint bleed?


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## Wutari (Nov 15, 2012)

Woodland said:


> What tape are you using? No problems with paint bleed?


I usually use 3M 20/20 masking tape but if I'm worried about peels then I use 3M blue tape. I don't usually have any problems with bleeds unless its really cold and even then they're minimal. Bleeds aren't usually a problem for me when sprayed correctly.


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## HJ61 (Nov 14, 2011)

I concur backroll the primer, not the closets

I guess you'll need to mask ceilings to spray the crown? Or are u planning to do a face coat with brush since u are spraying a coat prior to install? (that will make the caulking easier on fingers too!)


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## GeorgeG (Jun 2, 2012)

The crown is only in the trays which are slick finish so I should be able to mask it.

Do you guys spray in one pass in parallel overlapping rows or do you criss cross each coat in 2 passes?


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

"Wheredidceilings get the name lid's?"
I really dont know,it may be a regional thing in the west. It's common in commercial work in colo and az.
A sheet rock ceiling is a hard lid,a suspended tile grid is a drop ceiling.
In a younger year it was an ounce of Mother Nature.You know a three or four finger lid for ten dollars.Weren't those the day,s.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

kmp said:


> "Wheredidceilings get the name lid's?"
> I really dont know,it may be a regional thing in the west. It's common in commercial work in colo and az.
> A sheet rock ceiling is a hard lid,a suspended tile grid is a drop ceiling.


I was blaming the GWB contractors for this as well. Since most of them do suspended ceilings as well, this makes sense.


Actually, I blame the GWB contractors for a lot of things....


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

GeorgeG said:


> The crown is only in the trays which are slick finish so I should be able to mask it.
> 
> Do you guys spray in one pass in parallel overlapping rows or do you criss cross each coat in 2 passes?


One pass, overlapping rows, full length of the room. We typically go along the long dimensions of the GWB sheets. We started doing this AFTER clients would complain about paint "stripes." What they were seeing was the stripes of mud on the rows of fasteners. If there is any "stripiness" to the sprayed texture, we spray perpendicular to that.


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## sincere painter (Apr 14, 2010)

Oden said:


> I about always spray and Backroll walls then ceiling on the first coat. If you go ceiling first the spray dust falls down on the bare rock and makes it gritty adding to how hard sanding walls is between coats,
> 
> It's always preferable to have trim installed prior to painting IMO for a lot of reasons.
> 
> ...


Oden, 

I'm wandering how much time between spraying walls and spraying ceiling? Do you generally spray all walls in entire house, then go back to spray ceilings? I used to do mostly houses with textured ceilings, now more with smooth. I hate priming drywall on new construction and want to work smarter here. Thanks.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

When we spray trim on NC, we make sure it is all prepped caulking, nail holes filled, sanded, dust and vacuume every thing, I do get semi over spray and we simple sand what ever hits the walls. We don't have the textured walls around here nice flat somewhat smooth or very smooth. To get a nice spray job on the trim you do have to get some over spray on the walls, to me taping them first takes more time than spraying and sanding.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I also like using smaller tips for spraying interior 211, 217, 317. I honestly don't care that some on here don't like that, it works for me.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

cdpainting said:


> I also like using smaller tips for spraying interior 211, 217, 317. I honestly don't care that some on here don't like that, it works for me.


The 211 is my favorite little tip for doing trim, inside or out. Works good for pickets too. 
They will clog up easily, I use extra filters when using small tips.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

On NC interiors I like to use a 411 for doors, 311 for trim, and 513 for wall an ceilings. Sometimes 515 if the texture is heavy enough. 
I always prime and paint trim first then mask off. 
PVA prime the walls and ceilings, Sand, spray back roll ceilings
Mask ceilings (usually on my trusty stilts) and 12" film
sand, spray, and back roll walls
tear off trim and ceilings and touch up with brush


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

sincere painter said:


> Oden,
> 
> I'm wandering how much time between spraying walls and spraying ceiling? Do you generally spray all walls in entire house, then go back to spray ceilings? I used to do mostly houses with textured ceilings, now more with smooth. I hate priming drywall on new construction and want to work smarter here. Thanks.


Sure the whole space especially if the ceilings are a different flavor than the walls. Same flavor, room by room is fine.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

joshmays1976 said:


> The 211 is my favorite little tip for doing trim, inside or out. Works good for pickets too.
> They will clog up easily, I use extra filters when using small tips.


What do you mean extra filters? There's one as part of the inlet tube, one in the actual machine, and one in the gun. Which other ones are you adding?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

woodcoyote said:


> What do you mean extra filters? There's one as part of the inlet tube, one in the actual machine, and one in the gun. Which other ones are you adding?


There is a line filter you can add to the hose but typically I rely on the rock catcher, the manifold filter and the gun filter in that order.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Workaholic said:


> There is a line filter you can add to the hose but typically I rely on the rock catcher, the manifold filter and the gun filter in that order.


I don't see a line filter, well I saw them but I don't think they belonged to a paint rig. Do you have a link for one? I'm curious now. 

I rely on the same things you mentioned, minus the line filter, didn't know you could buy one. Plus of course I strain the material which helps obviously. 

Interesting.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

woodcoyote said:


> What do you mean extra filters? There's one as part of the inlet tube, one in the actual machine, and one in the gun. Which other ones are you adding?


 I just meant I put a strain sock or two on the intake of the pump. Extra filter was easier to say. 
Works fine for low pressure/ small tips but it bogs the pump down with high volume.


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## 1camper (Feb 17, 2013)

Panty hose on the intake...


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I see, makes sense then I suppose. I thought it was some sort of special attachment or contraption that is part of the hose.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

woodcoyote said:


> I see, makes sense then I suppose. I thought it was some sort of special attachment or contraption that is part of the hose.


there is a line filter that you can attach kind of like a swivel at the hose connections or before the gun. I will try and find a link. I have never used them but have seen them.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Time for me to bust out my graco booklets lol. So there ARE more goodies available to buy?  lol


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Your right hah. It's under Gun Adapters

Item number 210500. Gun Filter Housing - connect to gun inlet for added filtration. Use tip filters 224454 and 224453. 1/2 in npsm(m), 1/4 in npsm(f), Maximum Working Pressure: 5000 PSI (345 bar, 34.5 MPa).

Very interesting, I wonder how this handles latex/enamel etc or if it plugs up quickly with thicker materials. Time to ask the rep.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

joshmays1976 said:


> The 211 is my favorite little tip for doing trim, inside or out. Works good for pickets too.
> They will clog up easily, I use extra filters when using small tips.


I use these tips for every thing, body, trim, full interior priming on NC.


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