# Popcorn (Sprayed Texture) Removal



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

Hello--

Need some ideas on the best way to remove popcorn (sprayed texture) from ceiling and ceiling molding. Any hints and or advice is appreciated. Thanks.

JTP


----------



## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

buy a garden sprayer and add water and spray away


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

If you are trying to accomplish a smooth surface, there are two things that come to mind...either scrape and sand or drywall over top of popcorn.


----------



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

what you need to do with that garden sprayer is to spray enough to dampen the surface of the popcorn, then follow it with a good sized scraper...working in manageable sections is probably easiest instead of wetting the whole surface...you may (most likely) need to sand the whole surface with a fine grit if you are going to paint

you want to do extensive prep work beforehand in the form of plastic and dropcloths....it's a very messy job

and bring a shopvac


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

Rich said:


> ....it's a very messy job
> 
> and bring a shopvac


If it were me, i would drywall for this reason


----------



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

Here's some popcorn removal I did last year


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

Looks good Rich, very nice work. How long did that job take?


----------



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

Thanks Tim. 
The whole job was about 7 days. Walls we're re-painted in 6 rooms (2 coats) and the popcorn removal/paint you see above.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

Thanks for the suggestions. I have been doing some reading up on materials used in older popcorn textures. Asbestos is one of those materials. If you Google the topic, you will find some interesting articles on this topic as well.

Did anyone out there go to the trouble of testing the popcorn before actually removing it. What say ye all on this. Is this another job to simply stay away from?

JTP


----------



## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

Has the popcorn been painted? If so the garden sprayer is out. At least until you've scraped off the bulk of the texture, after that the water might be able to penetrate enough to loosen the remaining texture.


----------



## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

It can get messy, any way you look at it...

We tarp it, and then bag it. Well.

Garden sprayer or the pump is ok for just a room, otherwise,
we just bring in the garden hose and use drywall knife on a stick.

...Yes, we got a nice garden spray nozzle that adjusts very well and does have a positive shutoff...


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Popcorn Job Revisited*

Thanks to all who responded to this thread. Although no one responded to the asbestos issue, I decided to print out a hard copy of some information regarding texture and asbestos. I gave the information to the customer after inquiring how many years the texture had been up--the answer was 20 or more years. I explained that I was not prepared or equiped to remove her texture because of the possible health hazards. She understood and decided to have the ceiling touched up where damaged.

So my next question is: The damage to the textured ceiling was done by a feather duster and crazy maid. The maid over did the duster deal and left grooves in the texture. 

In order to repair the damage, what would you all suggest we do. Of course, once repaired, we will re-paint. Thanks. You have all been very generous in sharing your experience, wit, and time.

JTP


----------



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

A picture is probably the best thing for us at this point. 
Once we see it, we can probably step you through much better


----------



## Painter James (Aug 27, 2007)

Leaving grooves in the texture, or in the drywall substrate? Rich is right, a pic is needed. If the grooves are simply in the acoustic popcorn, then plastic off the area, lay paper tarps over the plastic (easier to walk on/bag it up), and get ya a hopper chock-full of the muddy gooey goodness, and shoot away. I always liked to lay it on thicker than I thought was warranted, that way you can always hit the dry build-up with a broom to level it off. Hard to go wrong with it.


----------



## FoilEffects (Dec 19, 2007)

Nice job Rich!!!


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

We have taken a few days of for the holidays, so I can't get a picture out real soon. I can tell you all, however, that the grooves in the texture appear to be just in the texture and not in the sheet rock. We do not have a texture gun or hopper. My partner says there is touch in a can for texture. 

Since my partner and I have only been working together for a few weeks, we are not necessarily familiar with all the little tricks of the trade each of us has in our bag. My tricks are actually quite limited since I just got into painting full time a few months ago. I started off painting apartments in Van Nuys/Sherman Oaks area of Southern California in the late 70ies, moved back East, went to work for the state, and now retired from the state and went back to painting. Our work is generally higher end for which I rely heavily on my new parnter's experience who has been painting full time for 20 years. So, I have some limited experience in many areas you full time folks have been mastering for years. I come here to eliminate as much of the "reinventing the wheel" idea will take me. Thanks again for everyone's help. It is truly appreciated.

JTP


----------



## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

The popcorn texture in a can sounds like the way to go. Any paint supplier should carry it. Comes out fast and doesn't go very far, keep your hand moving as if you were spraying.:thumbsup:


----------



## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

painttofish said:


> The popcorn texture in a can sounds like the way to go. Any paint supplier should carry it. Comes out fast and doesn't go very far, keep your hand moving as if you were spraying.:thumbsup:


Works well for small areas. The first time I used it I underestimated how much overspray mess I would get. Make sure you cover well because it can make a mess.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*In A Can*

Hey there--

I'm going to try and remember my camera and take a shot or two of the ceiling in question. If I can figure out how to post the pics here, you'll see the scope of the situation and be able to comment a little better.

I am thinking that the spray can texture will probably do the trick if we sort of feather it out a bit and go somewhat wider than the actual groove(s) we're trying to repair.

If we are close to a wall, we'll mask a little to prevent overspay clean up etc. Thanks much for the ideas and suggestions.

JTP


----------



## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

I'll caution you... things happen REAL fast with texture in a can!

Somebody has got to take that feather duster away from that maid!
Did she pluck the feathers from a dragon?


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Picture of Streaks to Repair in Ceiling Texture*









See Picture please. There are more streaks. This is a smaller section of the larger ceiling. But, the streaks are all pretty similiar. I agree, put a hold on the maid with the duster--she isn't helping much!

JTP


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

Appreciate input on how best to repair the ceiling textured pictured in Post #21 of this thread. Thanks.

JTP


----------



## jackrabbit5 (Oct 1, 2007)

JTP said:


> View attachment 420
> 
> 
> See Picture please. There are more streaks. This is a smaller section of the larger ceiling. But, the streaks are all pretty similiar. I agree, put a hold on the maid with the duster--she isn't helping much!
> ...


That was done with a feather duster?  Which end was she using?


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

jackrabbit5 said:


> That was done with a feather duster?  Which end was she using?


 
That's what my customer told me.

JTP


----------



## Ken S. (Apr 18, 2007)

"Appreciate input on how best to repair the ceiling textured pictured in Post #21 of this thread. Thanks."

I'd recommend using a texture hopper sprayer w/compressor and mix up the ceiling texture, sparsely shoot the damaged areas. Let dry...may get away with just that, or then airless spray in a "cross hatch pattern" the complete popcorn ceiling. This all requires "bagging" the room/areas involved.


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

If the acoustic ceiling was applied before 1978, it probably contains asbestos. Stringent procedures for removal and disposal are required in California, and are subject to penalties if not followed. Good luck!


----------



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

CApainter said:


> and are subject to penalties if not followed


more like...if caught


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Asbestos in Texture and Other Input*

My partner and I are trying to determine the best way to fix this ceiling up. We don't have any texturing equipment. We thought texture in a can would work and most likely will try that idea out.

I appreciate the great input and ideas put forth. I always like to thank those responding for taking time to help out a fellow traveler involved in a very tough trade.

Overall, no matter how careful, we are all exposing ourselves to potential hazards most others do not encounter. It is simply part and parecel of this business. As others consistently mention, we can minimize our exposure by using available mitigating strategies available. In the end however, we still wind up with being tired at day's end and saying "F--- It, just wash up in the paint thinner and be done with it." We all do this type of stuff--especially when tired or having a bad day. We are hurting ourselves by doing this, but we feel the result only incrementally, so it takes time to catch up, but when it does, well you wind up with some big health problems. This is not to say, that saying F--- It and falling off a ladder won't have some very serious and immediate consequences.

With that said, I did mention I had convinced the H/O not to remove the ceiling. We suggested repair and repaint. We are still on this job and have not gotten the ceiling yet--but will shortly. I convinced the home owner with two articles I printed out relative to asbestos and ceiling textures more than 20 years old which this ceiling is.

Happy and productive New Year to all of you. Stay safe-- our families deserve it, even if we don't take the best care of ourselves on our own. And of course, I am projecting my own situation onto those here who probably work smarter than I ever did.

JTP


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Considering the hazards, a conscientious painter should apply all the necessary precautions in the interest of the customer.


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

Would applying a flat ceiling paint help hide those streaks? If they are small enough this method *may *help.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Customer Interest and Self Interest*



CApainter said:


> Considering the hazards, a conscientious painter should apply all the necessary precautions in the interest of the customer.


Customer Interest and Self Interest--I agree.

JTP


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Protection starts with the painter.


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

We want to last in this trade!


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Method of Repair and Re-paint*

We intend to first try texture in a can method. We are thinking a light feathering, somewhat wider than 1/2 inch or so grooving to be repaired may do the trick. Then repaint with flat off white. I wanted to spray the ceiling, my partner says he can repaint pop-corn with a roller and it won't crumble and fall off. Since my partner and I have worked only about 6 months together, I haven't seen the scope of his bag of tricks. OTOH, I seem to do things the hard way. So, I figure he can lead and I will follow in some circumstances--this happens to be one of them. If it works out, I have learned something new, if his ideas don't work, we'll get it done another way. Either way, we will satisfy the customer. 

JTP


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Can texture works OK, but it can be pretty thin. A hopper would work best for this application.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

CApainter said:


> Can texture works OK, but it can be pretty thin. A hopper would work best for this application.


Don't have this type of equipment.

JTP


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

A compressor and hopper of some sort should be in every painters arsenal.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

CApainter said:


> A compressor and hopper of some sort should be in every painters arsenal.


Let's leave equipment on an open ended basis. I have a couple of compressors. And, we could purchase a hopper gun, texture in bags and so forth--but we have not had any need of this so far. I really am not interested in expanding at this point. We are doing OK, not great, but making living in a relatively poor area. 

I've been painting part-time for 30 years and still feel I know very little about the trade. I just recently retired from a career of 25 years and have returned to the painting trade full time. 

I like this forum because you folks are really great about sharing ideas and solving practical problems, which this one is.

CA--thanks much. We may add a hopper and gun or combo unit at some time if the texture issue becomes more prevalent.

JTP


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Anytime. Good luck and much success!


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

CApainter said:


> Anytime. Good luck and much success!


Thanks CA and same to you.

JTP


----------



## T200 (Nov 11, 2007)

JTP said:


> We thought texture in a can would work and most likely will try that idea out.


The first time I used the stuff, I was astonished at how much came out so fast.
If you haven't used it, I'd recommend you buy a can to use for "test" purposes, just so you can get a feel for it. 
It looks like those streaks are pretty narrow. Texture in a can will probably spray a wider swath.
Something I've done on small popcorn touchups: Apply drywall mud, texturing it by applying or poking it with a small stiff-bristle brush. It dries white and blends well with the popcorn.
You also have much more control over it than that gushing spray from the texture spray can.


----------



## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

CApainter said:


> A compressor and hopper of some sort should be in every painters arsenal.


Doing fine without :thumbup:


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*T200*



T200 said:


> The first time I used the stuff, I was astonished at how much came out so fast.
> If you haven't used it, I'd recommend you buy a can to use for "test" purposes, just so you can get a feel for it.
> It looks like those streaks are pretty narrow. Texture in a can will probably spray a wider swath.
> Something I've done on small popcorn touchups: Apply drywall mud, texturing it by applying or poking it with a small stiff-bristle brush. It dries white and blends well with the popcorn.
> You also have much more control over it than that gushing spray from the texture spray can.


An excellent idea. Certainly worth a "shot" at the mud touch up first. Heck, if we can't find the mud touch up after it's done, then we did a good job. Thanks for the idea and the tip on how fast the texture will come out of the can.

JTP


----------



## ProTouchPainting (Dec 28, 2007)

Got tied of reading and skipped ahead little. Not sure if it was mentioned or not but some if not all of the texture in a can is not water based.
Burns eyes bad! And sticks to skin and anything else. Just a heads up!

Ive tried several brands in the past for touch up behind guys that bumped the unpainted ceilings while painting new construction. Nothing i tried would fix what you pictured. Only make a more heavily textured mess. Maybe i just needed more experience? I dunno! Try it in a closet first! :thumbsup:

By the looks of it id say that ceiling wasn't painted and the pop corn falls off easily when touched.(but id also guess she used the wrong end of the duster! LOL) It feels hard if painted and very little falls off. You might get lucky while painting and pick up enough pop corn to help camo the streaks. Id say just the paint it self would make it less noticeable.As it reflects light differently. And maybe use just enough paint to finish the ceiling one coat. You'll be left with paint filled with pop corn texture, you might be able to go back and touch up with it.
Id paint first and see how it went, before trying the texture in a can. 

Not sure if you've had the experience of rolling unpainted pop corn before or not. If not and you roll it be careful when you roll back into the wet edge. It will pick up a little pop corn as you go. But if the force isn't with you on that day it can pull off the layer of mud texture and all as you roll into the wet edges. Roll FAST! And just meet the wet edges together! And no matter what. Dont look back when rolling. If you do look back and see a spot that might be light, DONT DO IT! Wait for it to dry then if it was a light spot you can fix it then. 
But if they havent had roof leaks or anything to cause high humity inside it usally isnt to bad. Plane on spraying the ones that have been damp/wet.

Id vote for the dry wall mud and brush touch up. They don't use pop corn much here any more. But Ive learned to use a wet brush in dry wall mud to touch up Stomped and Knock down ceiling textures. A little very thinned down dry wall mud whiped across the streaks might release and reposition just enough pop corn to hide the streaks. Might try that before painting. 

Your kids got a bean bag chair laying around. If so its full of pop corn texture! :thumbup:


----------



## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

timhag said:


> Doing fine without :thumbup:


Wow!

I'm kinda shocked.

Never really seen guy RESIST purchase of a tool before.

What's up, Tim? Teepee full?

I do NOT like the cans.

Has anyone mentioned the Homax products?

They have a number of different hand pumps that would do well for a small repair like those scars. And they can use real sacked texture w aggregate.
Homax does sell texture wet, in one gallon jugs, and they have a "little guy" also, which we use a lot for wall texture repairs here in CA.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

Pro and Tmr-- I checked out the Homax site and there appears to be a product or two which may work for us. Pro--thanks a bunch for the suggestions. You couldn't get this sort of insider information anywhere else I know of. 

We now have several approaches on how to fix the ceiling and will let you know how we made out. Hopefully, I can include the finished ceiling when complete. 

Thanks and keep any more ideas any of you might have coming. Happy NY to all.

JTP


----------



## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

Hi folks I just joined these forums the other day, but I'd thought I would add my 2 cents here as we do a ton of ceilings.

Unpainted Popcorn- we remove it by spraying water with an airless sprayer (517 tip) or you can use a weed sprayer. We drop sheet the floor and use an 8" knife and a mudpan.. angle the knife on one edge of the mud pan so as you scrape the texture falls into the pan. Once you perfect the technique you'll find that you will hardly have anything on the floor after. Keep a plastic 5 or a garbage bag to drop your texture in when the pan fills up. We use stilts so it goes really fast.

Painted texture - we drop sheet the floor asgain and go over the ceiling with a Floor scraper (Steel like the tapers use), then we soak the ceiling with water as above and remove the rest as above.. takes longer for sure and does not do as nice a job.

We hardly ever finish the ceiling smooth after, if that is the case we skim the whole ceiling with finishing mud, seal and paint.

Usually we will re texture over, up here 90 percent of our ceilings are splatter.. the odd knock down, or we get fancy with the hand texturing. When I get time I'll post some pics somewhere on the forums of some of our fancier ceilings.

Hope this is useful to someone lol
Cheers


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Thanks CobraCDN*

Thanks for sharing thaose tips. Great post with a great way to save on clean-up time. Thanks much for sharing it.

JTP


----------



## Housepainter (Jan 6, 2008)

Here is one formula that works well:
1 cup ammonia
1 cup fabric softener (makes water soak in better)
1 gallon of water
Apply with pump sprayer (dampen not soak)
let set 15 minutes. Keep texture moist
use rubber floor squeegee or broad blade to remove loose texture
lightly sand, repair damage areas
seal and paint.


----------



## JTP (Apr 29, 2007)

*Thanks HousePainter*

Another great insider tip. I'll put it in my black book. Thanks much.

JTP


----------



## Joewho (Apr 17, 2007)

Tmrrptr said:


> Wow!
> 
> I'm kinda shocked.
> 
> ...


I think the little guy screwes right onto the tex sprayer, so you don't have to use the hopper 

Curious to know if anyone has connections to texture touch up tools?
I've seen a small metal, hand held hopper, with a handle on the side and stiff wires that whip the material on the wall. I liked that one. I've also seen an applicator that looks something like an old chemical bug sprayer. You pump it up and let er fly.
Otherwise, I've been having a hell of a time with the aerosol cans of touch up texture. Tried a couple of different kinds, but they are useless for matching knock down, and severly useless to match the thin mud that just gets splashed on the walls, no knock down.

any ideas? I know there's another painter from vegas in here, but can't remember who he is. Is he socialble?


----------



## Handy (Jan 13, 2008)

Hi all. I'm new here, but have done some of this, so I'd like to chime in.

The popcorn in a can is totally useless. Not only that, it will cost you 12 bucks a can, x2, to learn that it is totally useless, and an additional hour or two cleaning up your mess.

There is a little tiny pump texture gun that is all plastic and comes with a premix dry popcorn stuff. This is OK. It lets you do a lot better job than you can with the can.(see above).

Like was mentioned, just having the ceiling all one color would probably help a lot. If it was me, I would try to mask everything but the worn area, texture that, and then paint the whole thing. You will probably still be able to see it, but you will have to know where to look. I doubt that you will do any feathering that will not show badly.


----------



## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

*texture repair*



Joewho said:


> I think the little guy screwes right onto the tex sprayer, so you don't have to use the hopper
> No, the "little guy" is a separate, self contained package for small repairs that can actually be re-used.
> 
> Homax also makes a couple different sizes of hand pump things with rotating adjustable tips and another volume adjustment, that use product from a gallon jug hopper, or premixed gallon that screw onto the top of the pump. (I do NOT like the bigger Homax hand pumps.)
> ...


Hmmm. having probs writing in the quote... hope this works out!

I have done a LOT of texture repair.
I know what works.
Will post a pic.
:jester:


----------



## Rawhide (Sep 28, 2008)

*Asbestos a cnsideration*

A lot of the acoustic ceiling "popcorn" applied in the 50s-80s contained asbestos. It may be illegal to paint over it since rolling often dislodges some of it and the asbestos fibers become airborne (friable). Scraping the material from the ceiling also releases the fibers.

Recommend you wet a small area(s) and collect samples in a ziplock bag and have it tested at a local lab to see if there is an issue. Your State may have specific rules (with fines for violation) about how asbestos must be abated.

Asbestos abatement companies will remove it using the negative air pressure and hepa filtration. Not something you should do without proper education and gear.

Lastly, if you are doing repaints/remodels, include a clause in your contract that states that your bid does not include asbestos (or other hazardous material) removal, should they be found during the job.

Rawhide


----------



## CobraCDN (Jan 8, 2008)

Rawhide said:


> A lot of the acoustic ceiling "popcorn" applied in the 50s-80s contained asbestos. It may be illegal to paint over it since rolling often dislodges some of it and the asbestos fibers become airborne (friable). Scraping the material from the ceiling also releases the fibers.
> 
> Recommend you wet a small area(s) and collect samples in a ziplock bag and have it tested at a local lab to see if there is an issue. Your State may have specific rules (with fines for violation) about how asbestos must be abated.
> 
> ...


IMHO, just use an airless sprayer and soak it a bit prior to scrapping read my post above. There won't be any dust or floating fibers. Half those monkeys wear cheap dust masks that don't do squat. I know there is some good outfits out there.. but for the most part that whole industry in relation to residential is nothing but a make work project.

Cheers


----------



## iPaint Richmond (Oct 29, 2007)

popcorn in a can works well enough if you read it you'll notice it says not to hold it down for more than 1-2 seconds as you'll blow all the air and none of the texture. But for repairs I love my Wagner Power Tex.


----------

