# Dry fall



## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Anyone ever use dry-fall for residential dry wall ceilings? What's your thought?


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Just commercial so far. How high are the ceilings?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Oh these 10 and 20 foot high, but I have wondered this for sometime. to me it seems like it would work fine I just never hear of people doing it.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

The 10' might not fall "dry".......


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> The 10' might not fall "dry".......


Maybe not, but the qualities of drying faster so you can re-coat faster, and also that it usually cost way less for the material.Also if your applying over something like unpainted popcorn where you really need it to dry faster so it doesn't wet the popcorn too much.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Maybe not, but the qualities of drying faster so you can re-coat faster, and also that it usually cost way less for the material.Also if your applying over something like unpainted popcorn where you really need it to dry faster so it doesn't wet the popcorn too much.


My experience has been that dry fall dosen't necessarily dry that much faster when its on the ceiling. It dries faster when its atomized, thus falling as a powder.

Now keep in mind, I'm not the dry fall guru here. I use it about once a year.


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Maybe not, but the qualities of drying faster so you can re-coat faster, and also that it usually cost way less for the material.Also if your applying over something like unpainted popcorn where you really need it to dry faster so it doesn't wet the popcorn too much.


Never thought of it that way. But it does make a lot of sense. Might be worth trying on my next job that I can use the sprayer on.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Maybe not, but the qualities of drying faster so you can re-coat faster, and also that it usually cost way less for the material.Also if your applying over something like unpainted popcorn where you really need it to dry faster so it doesn't wet the popcorn too much.


 John, don't know if this is of interest to ya, but here goes anyhoo,,,,

Back in the "bad ole days" aristex was the spray of the day. It had cork in it rather than styrofoam. It also had asbestoes in it. (If you want to know if your texture has asbestoes in it, just wipe a drywall knife acroos it, if you see dark brown spots, you have cork and therefore asbestoes).

This old asbestoes based texture is the texture that wants to fall off if you wet it with paint. New texture (with styrofoam) don't give you that kind of grief. However, If you will just go through and "fog" the ceiling, let it set an hour or so, depending on the weather, you can go back and blast it. Just don't back-roll it EVER, if its cork based texture.

I'm done now


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

My take on dryfall is it's overrated.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

What do you mean by over rated?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> What do you mean by over rated?


 I thnk he feels that way, cause by the time it hits the ground, it ain't paint anymore!!!!


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> My experience has been that dry fall dosen't necessarily dry that much faster when its on the ceiling. It dries faster when its atomized, thus falling as a powder.
> 
> Now keep in mind, I'm not the dry fall guru here. I use it about once a year.


You are right. I have used a lot of oil and latex dryfall. The oil is good for bar joist and that is about it. The latex is good when spraying black bar joist, or if you are spraying a simple saver ceiling. The reason to use dryfall is because it's cheap. You can spend 6 to 8 bucks a gallon on it or spend more on something else when its just a maintanance ceiling. I like using oil over latex because it dries quicker falling, and it doesn't rust as easy. The latex dryfall will usually not dry by the time it hits the floor. I will also say this with the oil. It will dries well as it hits the ground, but I have went up into a ceiling weeks later and it is still tacky depending on the temp. Plus if you do go with dryfall, I would use PPG. I know some like the SW dryfall, but I think theirs is junk.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> What do you mean by over rated?


That chit create's 10x's more mess than regular 100% Acrylic paint. And if the powder gets wet its alive again. Then you have to breath that chit. Even with a respirator your choking. 

Most dryfall I know of specs priming raw substrates. So you still have to prime if its NC, and I'm not aware of a dryfall primer.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> That chit create's 10x's more mess than regular 100% Acrylic paint. And if the powder gets wet its alive again. Then you have to breath that chit. Even with a respirator your choking.
> 
> Most dryfall I know of specs priming raw substrates. So you still have to prime if its NC, and I'm not aware of a dryfall primer.


The best thing to do is to buy a respirator with the face shield. If you are spraying oil, it will not stick to your face shield and you can wipe it off. It turns to dust. Any latex dryfall or latex paint isn't going to dry which is a mess. If you are doing bar joist I wouldn't go with anything else but oil dryfall. SW and PPG do have higher priced dryfalls also. You are going to waste a lot of paint no matter what when you are spraying bar joist.


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## [email protected] (Mar 1, 2008)

I know of one job that they talk about doing it to. But it was for flatness as I remember and the talk was rolling it on. Long time ago at a PDCA meeting. 
David


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

This is good information. Thanks guy's


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