# Elevator Doors



## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

I have 4 elevator doors to do (outsides facing into floor space) I normally have in the past hit them with Oil.. They are now a nasty fleshy looking color and need to be paint an brownish to kind of match the existing oak trim. I have that color not the problem... I would like to use anything waterborne but worry about how it would hold up. Has any one tried WB on elevator doors?

I guess its the same painting steel doors with WB but it seems like E-Doors get more abuse. I need more then one coat and would like to get them all done on a Sunday when the place is closed that's why I thought WB I would get two coats done in a day..

Thx for any suggestions... I don't have a problem with Oil if that's what I need to do in the end...


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

Muralo dries pretty hard and is very durable. I have never used it on elevator does tho, recoat is 4 hours so it could be done in one day.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

MDRocket said:


> Muralo dries pretty hard and is very durable. I have never used it on elevator does tho, recoat is 4 hours so it could be done in one day.


I do use Muralo's Ultra for trim now and but only in off whites... I know they have deep bases for it so I guess it is a possibility, along with Aura.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Used DTM WB on doors and frames many times.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> I have 4 elevator doors to do (outsides facing into floor space) I normally have in the past hit them with Oil.. They are now a nasty fleshy looking color and need to be paint an brownish to kind of match the existing oak trim. I have that color not the problem... I would like to use anything waterborne but worry about how it would hold up. Has any one tried WB on elevator doors?
> 
> I guess its the same painting steel doors with WB but it seems like E-Doors get more abuse. I need more then one coat and would like to get them all done on a Sunday when the place is closed that's why I thought WB I would get two coats done in a day..
> 
> Thx for any suggestions... I don't have a problem with Oil if that's what I need to do in the end...


SW Industrial Enamel would be my choice.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The problem with any wb paint is the curing time as you know. Within that first month it takes to cure it will be soft.Can you do it on the weekend and spray fast dry oil.That would be hard as nails.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

johnpaint said:


> The problem with any wb paint is the curing time as you know. Within that first month it takes to cure it will be soft.Can you do it on the weekend and spray fast dry oil.That would be hard as nails.


Who has a fast dry oil and how fast does it dry?? The space is occupied (library)but it will be done on a Sunday when closed.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

I know Rob has used the SW Industrial Enamel with good results, he isn't home now to ask, so I was looking for it on the SW site and saw this
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/oem/us/eng/products/kem_fast_dry_high_solids_enamel/


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

> SW Industrial Enamel would be my choice.


Thats a pretty solid choice.

MAK, depending on how nice they look now you might consider an automotive finish. Fast dry, easy to spray multiple coats, super durable.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Bender said:


> Thats a pretty solid choice.
> 
> MAK, depending on how nice they look now you might consider an automotive finish. Fast dry, easy to spray multiple coats, super durable.



they have been painted I few times (I assume) over the last 20+ yrs they have been there and are very stippled all ready


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Here are some pics of the Industrial Enamel
http://www.rcpaintinginc.com/RCPAINTING/Photos/Pages/Industrial.html


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Industrial Waterborne SpeedSet DTM Enamel

Not sure if they make it in a tintable base or just shelf colors.


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## JCM (Jan 6, 2009)

Why not epoxy?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Wow...I would have called my lacquer guy for elevator doors...like commercial bathroom stall metal doors

Seriously, I wouldn't have considered anything else for years

Interesting to know so many rely on DTMs/IEs for this app
I might have to try that next time (and keep more of the dough)

Well...I guess that's one of the reasons this forum is here for huh?!

I'm not the OP, but thanks for the post and replies

This place is so cool for this type of info exchange


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

JCM said:


> Why not epoxy?


Most true epoxies I'm familiar with are a bit...costly...for elevator doors
Effective I'm sure...but a little labor and product cost intense


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

slickshift said:


> Wow...I would have called my lacquer guy for elevator doors...like commercial bathroom stall metal doors


even if they had been painted prior with traditional oil paint and have roller stipple on them?


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I second the Murallo Ultra. A few years back when I first discovered it I did a test spot on the back of a closet door. The door was gloss oil & I put it directly on it with out sanding just to see what happened. This was on a Friday, came back on Monday & did the fingernail test. Could not move it! I've been sold on it ever since.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i use dtm acrylic for all commercial trim. tougher than woodpecker lips, and easy to work with.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Bender said:


> Thats a pretty solid choice.
> 
> MAK, depending on how nice they look now you might consider an automotive finish. Fast dry, easy to spray multiple coats, super durable.


You can get semi gloss from auto paint store, they will match the color you need. You can also get clear coat from them in a semi gloss. try any auto parts store that will mix sw paints or other paints. Also do a Google in your area for sw auto paints. It shouldn't be that hard to find.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The good thing about this is you can also have them put some in touch up spray cans so if you need to hit it after a few weeks.


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