# First time for strié



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Okay, so I had never done a strié before. I would like some of you pros to critique it?? Please be frank, I would like to learn from this what I could of done better. I am considering sending my lead painter to class, I think she has good potential for decorative work. We did this one together. 
I used a BM acrylic glaze and Regal Pearl for color. The walls were thoroughly patched, they opted out of a full skim coat. Double primed with BM 046 white. Ceiling and trim are 2 coats of Advance gloss. Taped all trim with yellow tape. I rolled the finish out evenly then did a quick vertical pass with brush to even out and remove heavy . She followed me doing a ceiling to floor pass to finish.

I know it has inconsistencies in it, like heavier spots, but it was also requested to have some randomness.The description they gave me was an "old blue jeans" look. The customer is quite happy and I am pleased too, but I know it could of been better. So, have at it.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

From the pics it is hard to tell anything much. But what I do notice are what we call 'flames'. They appear at the top and bottom of the wall. 

Let me see if I can explain it without getting confusing. At the top, the person with the brush starts dragging and the pressure put on the brush can leave the top with a thinner layer of glaze than say when you get to the middle, where your pressure might lighten up because of the angle the brush.By the time you get to the bottom, there is a lot of glaze built up which gets deposited at the bottom and the natural inclination is then to switch direction and drag the brush back up a little. This re-deposits that excess glaze, resulting in a heavier flame at the bottom.

What I was taught was to make sure the layer of glaze is even overall.Start the brush at the top, yes, drag down a couple inches, then without lifting the brush from the wall, go back up to the starting point. Then come back down with the brush. That area at the top will not be to thin. 

As for the bottom, I was taught to drag all the way through past the top of the trim. You're going to have to rotate the brush in your hand so that the tips of the bristles end up being the last thing to touch the wall. I will only drag back up if the glaze is low in contrast to the base coat color of the wall. 

Some people don't care about the flames, as long as you're client is happy and it matches the sample, you're good to go.

I also use a laser level to keep my lines relatively straight. I don't go nuts over that, though. If they want it perfectly straight, they can buy wallpaper. If you don't have a laser level, I have in the past marked off sections with tape that I checked with a level.

Michael may have something to add. I don't know about him, but I still use only oil for strie. Latex glazes bought commercially are crap.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

fauxlynn said:


> From the pics it is hard to tell anything much. But what I do notice are what we call 'flames'. They appear at the top and bottom of the wall.
> 
> Let me see if I can explain it without getting confusing. At the top, the person with the brush starts dragging and the pressure put on the brush can leave the top with a thinner layer of glaze than say when you get to the middle, where your pressure might lighten up because of the angle the brush.By the time you get to the bottom, there is a lot of glaze built up which gets deposited at the bottom and the natural inclination is then to switch direction and drag the brush back up a little. This re-deposits that excess glaze, resulting in a heavier flame at the bottom.
> 
> ...


Do you have a short version?


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## michael tust (Mar 6, 2009)

fauxlynn said:


> From the pics it is hard to tell anything much. But what I do notice are what we call 'flames'. They appear at the top and bottom of the wall. Let me see if I can explain it without getting confusing. At the top, the person with the brush starts dragging and the pressure put on the brush can leave the top with a thinner layer of glaze than say when you get to the middle, where your pressure might lighten up because of the angle the brush.By the time you get to the bottom, there is a lot of glaze built up which gets deposited at the bottom and the natural inclination is then to switch direction and drag the brush back up a little. This re-deposits that excess glaze, resulting in a heavier flame at the bottom. What I was taught was to make sure the layer of glaze is even overall.Start the brush at the top, yes, drag down a couple inches, then without lifting the brush from the wall, go back up to the starting point. Then come back down with the brush. That area at the top will not be to thin. As for the bottom, I was taught to drag all the way through past the top of the trim. You're going to have to rotate the brush in your hand so that the tips of the bristles end up being the last thing to touch the wall. I will only drag back up if the glaze is low in contrast to the base coat color of the wall. Some people don't care about the flames, as long as you're client is happy and it matches the sample, you're good to go. I also use a laser level to keep my lines relatively straight. I don't go nuts over that, though. If they want it perfectly straight, they can buy wallpaper. If you don't have a laser level, I have in the past marked off sections with tape that I checked with a level. Michael may have something to add. I don't know about him, but I still use only oil for strie. Latex glazes bought commercially are crap.


I've read this at least 3 times.... I think this is Very Well Written and is Basically Exactly how we do Our Stria Also.... A few things.... (And this is just what we use ). When we do a Stria Wall Finish,we use a Wallpaper Brush Wrapped in Cheesecloth ... We Soak The Cheesecloth in Glaze and then Wring it out so to Prime It....it is Wrapped Either 2 or 3 times around the Bristles... This way it will remove about the same Amount of Glaze Evenly . Then after each pass we Wring it out again.. The look sometimes is different when Wrapped 2 times vs 3 as the Bristles are more Padded with 3... Also the Wallpaper Bush is Usually Wider then a Dragging Brush also Stiffer, and we feel we have Better Control to keep The Glaze More Even... It is a bit tough to see from the Photos,but The Color Appears to be a Good Choice ( always important )... Being able to Control The Even Amount of Glaze on the Surface and keeping it Straight can sometimes be a Challenge ,... This finish is About Executing it using the Correct Angle and Pressure,while keeping it Straight. The more Contrast from Basecoat to Glaze Color, the more any imperfections will show. If this were my first Attempt .... I would be Very Happy , and like you, I would also ask how could it be better...
A few important areas to improve on , but this is not that Easy of a Finish to do Correctly. We actually do this in Waterbase,but they have Discontinued our Glaze and we only have a couple of Gallons left till we find a comparable one.... Always have 2 coats of the Basecoat to allow more open time ... Very Good First Attempt!

Michael and Laura Tust
A few


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> Do you have a short version?


Brush
Glaze
Flames
Crap


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

michael tust said:


> I've read this at least 3 times.... I think this is Very Well Written and is Basically Exactly how we do Our Stria Also.... A few things.... (And this is just what we use ). When we do a Stria Wall Finish,we use a Wallpaper Brush Wrapped in Cheesecloth ... We Soak The Cheesecloth in Glaze and then Wring it out so to Prime It....it is Wrapped Either 2 or 3 times around the Bristles... This way it will remove about the same Amount of Glaze Evenly . Then after each pass we Wring it out again.. The look sometimes is different when Wrapped 2 times vs 3 as the Bristles are more Padded with 3... Also the Wallpaper Bush is Usually Wider then a Dragging Brush also Stiffer, and we feel we have Better Control to keep The Glaze More Even... It is a bit tough to see from the Photos,but The Color Appears to be a Good Choice ( always important )... Being able to Control The Even Amount of Glaze on the Surface and keeping it Straight can sometimes be a Challenge ,... This finish is About Executing it using the Correct Angle and Pressure,while keeping it Straight. The more Contrast from Basecoat to Glaze Color, the more any imperfections will show. If this were my first Attempt .... I would be Very Happy , and like you, I would also ask how could it be better...
> A few important areas to improve on , but this is not that Easy of a Finish to do Correctly. We actually do this in Waterbase,but they have Discontinued our Glaze and we only have a couple of Gallons left till we find a comparable one.... Always have 2 coats of the Basecoat to allow more open time ... Very Good First Attempt!
> 
> 
> ...



Interesting about the brush wrapped in cheesecloth, I never have seen that.

I always have two on hand,wipe it frequently and switch it out with the spare brush about every three widths. The other brush is laying in a pan with mineral spirits so it doesn't dry up. I use a ton of rags when doing a strie.

I buy my strie brushes from Johnson Paint Co. in Boston.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

fauxlynn said:


> From the pics it is hard to tell anything much. But what I do notice are what we call 'flames'. They appear at the top and bottom of the wall.
> 
> Let me see if I can explain it without getting confusing. At the top, the person with the brush starts dragging and the pressure put on the brush can leave the top with a thinner layer of glaze than say when you get to the middle, where your pressure might lighten up because of the angle the brush.By the time you get to the bottom, there is a lot of glaze built up which gets deposited at the bottom and the natural inclination is then to switch direction and drag the brush back up a little. This re-deposits that excess glaze, resulting in a heavier flame at the bottom.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback! The flames are what I was having a hard time with. I also feel that the prime should of been back brushed to maintain a uniform texture, idk. But without skimming the walls it's hard to change what's already there. I only did primer and then one finish? Is there usually more than one finish coat/color?
I felt rushed by the lack of open time with the acrylic glaze and was wishing I had gone oil.
What products do you like?


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

michael tust said:


> I've read this at least 3 times.... I think this is Very Well Written and is Basically Exactly how we do Our Stria Also.... A few things.... (And this is just what we use ). When we do a Stria Wall Finish,we use a Wallpaper Brush Wrapped in Cheesecloth ... We Soak The Cheesecloth in Glaze and then Wring it out so to Prime It....it is Wrapped Either 2 or 3 times around the Bristles... This way it will remove about the same Amount of Glaze Evenly . Then after each pass we Wring it out again.. The look sometimes is different when Wrapped 2 times vs 3 as the Bristles are more Padded with 3... Also the Wallpaper Bush is Usually Wider then a Dragging Brush also Stiffer, and we feel we have Better Control to keep The Glaze More Even... It is a bit tough to see from the Photos,but The Color Appears to be a Good Choice ( always important )... Being able to Control The Even Amount of Glaze on the Surface and keeping it Straight can sometimes be a Challenge ,... This finish is About Executing it using the Correct Angle and Pressure,while keeping it Straight. The more Contrast from Basecoat to Glaze Color, the more any imperfections will show. If this were my first Attempt .... I would be Very Happy , and like you, I would also ask how could it be better...
> A few important areas to improve on , but this is not that Easy of a Finish to do Correctly. We actually do this in Waterbase,but they have Discontinued our Glaze and we only have a couple of Gallons left till we find a comparable one.... Always have 2 coats of the Basecoat to allow more open time ... Very Good First Attempt!
> 
> Michael and Laura Tust
> A few


Thanks Michael! The color took me about 7 tries and about 6 to achieve the right dilution once I had the color. What a novice! 
The cheese cloth idea sounds interesting, I'll try it on some samples. I can't imagine the variety of application tools you carry around to do what you do. And the many ways to use them. How long have you been at this? Where did you get your start?


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

PRC said:


> Thanks for the feedback! The flames are what I was having a hard time with. I also feel that the prime should of been back brushed to maintain a uniform texture, idk. But without skimming the walls it's hard to change what's already there. I only did primer and then one finish? Is there usually more than one finish coat/color?
> I felt rushed by the lack of open time with the acrylic glaze and was wishing I had gone oil.
> What products do you like?


I do not usually paint or prep the walls. My contract states two finish coats done by others. If you mean orange peel, that is something I will point out to the HO at the initial meeting. I think I've said this a few thousand times in my faux life, but I'll say it again,

*Decorative/ faux finishes DO NOT hide flaws, they exaggerate them.*

I may have to find a water based replacement at some point, but for now I stick with Ben Moore alkyd glaze,flatting oil and tube oils. I used to used only Ovation glaze by Pratt and Lambert, but it is no more. The oil formulas I am sure have changed because I don't get the open time from BM like I did 8-10 yrs ago.

As far as the flames, it is just a matter of practice. You do have to be quick, and it is helpful to have a person to apply the glaze then stay a little bit ahead of you.


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## michael tust (Mar 6, 2009)

fauxlynn said:


> Interesting about the brush wrapped in cheesecloth, I never have seen that. I always have two on hand,wipe it frequently and switch it out with the spare brush about every three widths. The other brush is laying in a pan with mineral spirits so it doesn't dry up. I use a ton of rags when doing a strie. I buy my strie brushes from Johnson Paint Co. in Boston.


You should give it a try.... I'm definitely an Oil Person Too, but you would be able to have a Good Waterbase Glaze work out to More then Satisfactory Results...


Michael Tust


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## michael tust (Mar 6, 2009)

PRC said:


> Thanks Michael! The color took me about 7 tries and about 6 to achieve the right dilution once I had the color. What a novice! The cheese cloth idea sounds interesting, I'll try it on some samples. I can't imagine the variety of application tools you carry around to do what you do. And the many ways to use them. How long have you been at this? Where did you get your start?


Less likely to get as noticeable Flames with Wallpaper Brush...
Started Decorative Painting in 1994....
My first class was at the Day Studio in San Francisco... With JoAnne Day... Then The Addiction Started.... All over the US and France... 
You will always make your money back if taught by a Good School / Teacher......

You Nailed The Color in Many Tries..... Better then not getting the Color in One Try...


Michael Tust


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