# need expert advice....



## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

https://www.innovationsusa.com/detail.php?n=Mayfair&s=MFR-03&col=Audley&q=naturalPlease take a gander at this link to a "cork /metallic ink, and metallic paper backing." Sounds a little intimidating...

ANY advice you guys can give me on this is greatly appreciated! Im going to try to see if I can see the product in person if possible. 

I take it I should line the walls for this. I'm also attaching a pic of an arched window its gonna have to go in. Im thinking about using Jim Parodi's templating technique to do the top arch, rather than risk that corner cut with a product like this. What do guys think??


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## kentdalimp (Aug 15, 2013)

Couple of things having read the install instructions. 

SEAMS: Make sure you and the Homeowner both know that the seams are not going to be invisible. 

CORNERS: It says to wrap the External corners with at least 6". Looking around the window, if you are wrapping to the frame, that -may- be a problem. You also have the Radial Arch to worry about. My fix (I am a barbarian commercial guy) would be Hi-tack 90, and or a torch, but there is no guarantee it will work.

Also Tape the edges where you are going to Seam, not sure it's going to clean well at all if you get any glue on it. 

You will have to see how thick the materials are, and can decide on Paste from there. If you haven't done anything like this (Fancy/Expensive Materials) before, it seems daunting. Do enough of it and you realize its all the same. Point being, don't sweat it, do your research and just start. You will figure it out as you start going.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

The instructions don't call for a liner, just a good primer sealer. Shieldz is made for wallpaper, just make sure to prime the day before. Bullseye 123 works well too if you can't find the Shieldz. When wrapping corners I sometimes grease them first with paste and let it tack for extra grip (inside and outside corners).
I would be interested in a link to see the template technique. No way to wrap the arched corner so I think I know what he's getting at but would like to see his demonstration.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I use Gardz for my primer. I get a really good price on it. 

I dont know where theres a link. Its in the DVD set I bought. Basically, if he has a complex cut (His example was around a fireplace mantle) with any paper that cant bend, he hangs a piece of liner, cuts it exact, starts to hang the real stuff on the liner till it gets to the complex part, then pulls the joined peices down down and the takes it to the table The liner is stuck to the back of the real stuff, so he follows the cut. I was simply gonna template the inside of the window instead of doing any cuts inside it at all.

Turns out, there is something going inside the window reveal, so I dont have to mess with it. 

Im gonna hang a liner for this for future removal. I've heard foil is an absolute nightmare to remove. 

I have the samples in my possession as we speak. This product is tricky. Its like a 1/64" cork veneer glued to metallic foil Any voids in the cork shows the metal foil behind it. It delaminates VERY easily too. I might use a roller to smooth it. I also have a delicate brush. Its sold by the yard, so I told the designer I wanted them to order extra, and she's totally okay with it. 

This is a big job. Theres a another weird product, in another room, but I dont think it will be a hassle. Then two other rooms, with 54" thin high end vinyl. No patterns at all. Check out this other stuff"https://www.innovationsusa.com/detail.php?n=Botanica&s=BOT-01&col=Snowdrop&q=natural Its thin strips of leaf paper. The gaps between them are the nonwoven backing. The gaps are see though.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Sounds like fun. Good luck!


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

What price are you paying for Gardz? Just curious.
Foil is a nightmare to remove, FOR SURE.
Charge plenty, it sounds like a pain to install also.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I told my paint rep I could get that rx-35 (or whatever its called) from Sherwin for $22, and he matched it for Gardz.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Woodco said:


> I told my paint rep I could get that rx-35 (or whatever its called) from Sherwin for $22, and he matched it for Gardz.


That's about what I pay @ PPG


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

Gwarel said:


> When wrapping corners I sometimes grease them first with paste and let it tack for extra grip (inside and outside corners).



I grease corners too!! Thought it was a no-no to do or admit but have wallpapered maybe 10 times & always found it to hold the corner overlap better than depending on the pasting itself....happy to see someone else does it too


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Since someone brought this back from the dead, I'll show my after pic. It really wasnt too bad. Luckily, a few days before I did this, I was hired to hang a very similar product. I crosslined with nonwoven, so removal will not ever be a problem. You cant see it from this pic, but I had to do a template on the other side with some crown molding thing. It came out pretty damn good, except where I cut the window arch. Im still not good at cutting off at outside corners.


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

Gwarel said:


> Shieldz is made for wallpaper, just make sure to prime the day before. Bullseye 123 works well too if you can't find the Shieldz. When wrapping corners I sometimes grease them first with paste and let it tack for extra grip (inside and outside corners).
> 
> 
> I would be interested in a link to see the template technique. No way to wrap the arched corner so I think I know what he's getting at but would like to see his demonstration.



Don’t have enough high end paper experience to add much to the discussion :-/ but second the recommendation to grease the corners- some extra tack for thicker material always takes away some the anxiety once its going up.

I’d also love to hear more about the template technique! Have heard it mentioned here before but couldn’t find much about it...


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

Woodco said:


> Since someone brought this back from the dead, I'll show my after pic. It really wasnt too bad. Luckily, a few days before I did this, I was hired to hang a very similar product. I crosslined with nonwoven, so removal will not ever be a problem. You cant see it from this pic, but I had to do a template on the other side with some crown molding thing. It came out pretty damn good, except where I cut the window arch. Im still not good at cutting off at outside corners.




Oh shoot- I didn’t loom @ the date, sorry bout that. You did a fabulous job, turned out great!


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

PPD said:


> Don’t have enough high end paper experience to add much to the discussion :-/ but second the recommendation to grease the corners- some extra tack for thicker material always takes away some the anxiety once its going up.
> 
> I’d also love to hear more about the template technique! Have heard it mentioned here before but couldn’t find much about it...


I dont grease the corners. I would, If I were hanging vinyl though. I almost never deal with outside corners . Im actually pretty bad at them with regular paper.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Woodco said:


> I dont grease the corners. I would, If I were hanging vinyl though. I almost never deal with outside corners . Im actually pretty bad at them with regular paper.


I approach the outside corner by getting the material tight to the corner from the seam, then I use a clean hand cloth, maybe folded once, and pinch the corner to get the material started tight around the corner, taking care not to burnish. Once I have it turned for a few inches I smooth it into place. The reason I grease it is to give an extra layer of paste so that I don't drag it dry. As you stated, this is more for a heavy material than for a paper.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I was actually referring to cutting the paper on an outside corner. I have a really hard time with that. Just yesterday, I hung a couple walls of fake brick paper, and I had to end it on an outside corner. The corner was perfect, and I thought I cut it perfect, but the client asked me if I could do it better. I told him thats as good as it can get, and to get a piece of transparent corner trim if he was worried about it.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Woodco said:


> I was actually referring to cutting the paper on an outside corner. I have a really hard time with that. Just yesterday, I hung a couple walls of fake brick paper, and I had to end it on an outside corner. The corner was perfect, and I thought I cut it perfect, but the client asked me if I could do it better. I told him thats as good as it can get, and to get a piece of transparent corner trim if he was worried about it.


Like everything, practice makes perfect I guess. Try letting the paper hang there for a while and dry out to be more rigid before you make your cut.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Gwarel said:


> Like everything, practice makes perfect I guess. Try letting the paper hang there for a while and dry out to be more rigid before you make your cut.


Ok. Makes sense. What about when it it wraps around a corner? How do you do that? Im talking paper here, not vinyl, which will wrap with greasing the corner and heat guns and double cuts. How do you do it with a regular patterned paper? The last job I did, I wrapped the paper, then cut it about a half inch over the other side, and after two tries, took the other sheet let it hang over a half an inch, then made a pencil mark on the backside , and cut it with scissors. Really time consuming, and I'd love to find a better way. This corner happened to be pretty bad. old house, lumpy corner, even after I floated the walls. First, I took the first sheet which wrapped, pulled it back some in hopes to cut the second sheet on the corner, and hoped to pull htat back, and restick the first sheet down over it, if that makes sense. I screwed something up though, so tried it using the pencil marks the second time.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Woodco said:


> Ok. Makes sense. What about when it it wraps around a corner? How do you do that? Im talking paper here, not vinyl, which will wrap with greasing the corner and heat guns and double cuts. How do you do it with a regular patterned paper? The last job I did, I wrapped the paper, then cut it about a half inch over the other side, and after two tries, took the other sheet let it hang over a half an inch, then made a pencil mark on the backside , and cut it with scissors. Really time consuming, and I'd love to find a better way. This corner happened to be pretty bad. old house, lumpy corner, even after I floated the walls. First, I took the first sheet which wrapped, pulled it back some in hopes to cut the second sheet on the corner, and hoped to pull htat back, and restick the first sheet down over it, if that makes sense. I screwed something up though, so tried it using the pencil marks the second time.


I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you splicing the second sheet to square it up and then continuing on?


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