# I f'ing hate oil/alkyd paint!



## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

I just spent all day painting about 20 cabinet doors with ProMar 200 Alkyd after priming them on Friday, and its not even covering so I have to do it again tomorrow!!!!

So I thought I would b*tch on here about why I hate using the stuff.


- It's sticky as can be, even after thinning it down.

- Its very hard to work with and every brush mark must be perfect or the whole door/cabinet/etc. will look like terrible.

- Makes me extremely light headed/nauseated. (Always have to wear my respirator.)

- Cannot go back and touch up an area after like 2 minutes cuz it leaves drag marks.

- A pain in the ass to clean up.

- Harmful for the environment.

- My hands stick to the brush handle.

- Hard as heck to clean off my hands.

- ETC. ETC. ETC.

Anyone else feel the same?

Really wish my boss was smarter. This was his choice alone and not the museum manager's idea.

If it were up to me, I'd be spraying these things and taking about 5 times less time.

Okay I'm done moaning about it. :jester:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Primer plus two finish coats on cabinets is a minimum standard.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

thank you


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Penetrol

Cupran Special

Or just use Insl-X.


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> Primer plus two finish coats on cabinets is a minimum standard.



I figured as much, but I'd much rather be working with latex. That's kinda my point.


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

Rcon said:


> Penetrol
> 
> Curan Special
> 
> Or just use Insl-X.


BC in the house! I used to live in Victoria for a couple years.

Yeah I think Penetrol would take care of some of my problems.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

stlpainter said:


> I figured as much, but I'd much rather be working with latex. That's kinda my point.


Primer plus two with latex too.


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## optimal (Feb 5, 2010)

Take the time to tape off the room and get your hvlp sprayer out. Put some japan dryer in it and a little spirits and let it rip.


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> Primer plus two with latex too.


Yes I know! :yes:

My problem is not second coating the cabinets, its working with oil paint for 16 hours in a row!


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

stlpainter said:


> Yes I know! :yes:
> 
> My problem is not second coating the cabinets, its working with oil paint for 16 hours in a row!


After ten hours oil rage sets in. But working 16 hours straight is not a great practice anyways!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I'm going to share with you all a trade secret LC frowns upon giving away but here goes: a great way to clean oil/alkyd off your hands, arms, face, hair, feet, etc, is to use a basic corn oil for cooking with. It works great and no stinky, icky thinner smells. Plus, if you got a date and are in a hurry to get cleaned up and no time for a shower, you can always wip up a batch of cologne oil, just pour some of your favorite cologne in the oil bottle and youre good to go, and treat your girl to a romantic dinner at taco bell or white castle, or whathave you.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Cupran


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

stlpainter said:


> BC in the house! I used to live in Victoria for a couple years.


Lots of guys here from BC! :thumbup:


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> Cupran


ya ... ya :jester:


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## optimal (Feb 5, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> I'm going to share with you all a trade secret LC frowns upon giving away but here goes: a great way to clean oil/alkyd off your hands, arms, face, hair, feet, etc, is to use a basic corn oil for cooking with. It works great and no stinky, icky thinner smells. Plus, if you got a date and are in a hurry to get cleaned up and no time for a shower, you can always wip up a batch of cologne oil, just pour some of your favorite cologne in the oil bottle and youre good to go, and treat your girl to a romantic dinner at taco bell or white castle, or whathave you.


My buddy prefers to whipe 10w30 on his face


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

I hear ya on the VOC's, but everything else, not so much...


Never have problems with working time or premature stickiness... maybe you should try BM's classic Impervo,, even though it's likely a different formulation now than it was years ago, and supposedly for "metal only".

Honestly, there are many reasons I prefer oil to latex (many opposite the resasons you post for disliking it) and I would definitely use it more if not for the headaching stink.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

optimal said:


> My buddy prefers to whipe 10w30 on his face


youre supposed to surround yourself with success if you want to go in that direction...


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

For what it's worth I can't stand oil too. Besides the waterbourne products are way more advanced. I miss the solvent high though.


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

TheRogueBristle said:


> I hear ya on the VOC's, but everything else, not so much...
> 
> 
> Never have problems with working time or premature stickiness... maybe you should try BM's classic Impervo,, even though it's likely a different formulation now than it was years ago, and supposedly for "metal only".
> ...


Please explain you reasons. I'd love to know and maybe it would change my perspective on oil paint.

My boss could only come up with one reason, and thats durability. But if you use a high quality latex wood and trim paint, im sure theres not much difference. Ie BM Regal.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I still think oils are more durable than any waterborne, but the differences are diminishing as WB technology improves every year. Just used some impervo today. Love brushing it, but hate the clean up hassles. Oil covers better than any WB when you brush it on. You can really lay it on thick.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Impervo blows Regal line away as a trim paint. Now, I have only painted over promar oil on trim once, it is it a crappy oil (it was eggshell). I put impervo over it and the promar is such a porous film that it needs to be primed to get Impervo to dry even in sheen, even with two coats.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Promar 200 is promar 200. It sucks. Whether the oil or water.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

To me there is nothing that looks better then oil on interior wood work. Just seems like yesterday if someone said they put water base on interior wood work you would have flipped out. I know it yellows and chit, but I think it holds up much longer, feels much nicer. and just simply looks professional. 

Pat


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

stlpainter said:


> Please explain you reasons. I'd love to know and maybe it would change my perspective on oil paint.
> 
> My boss could only come up with one reason, and thats durability. But if you use a high quality latex wood and trim paint, im sure theres not much difference. Ie BM Regal.


The only disadvantages of oil are, as I see it, cleanup and smell/toxicity. Any other performance aspect of paint you can think of, oil trumps latex. There's a reason oil has been the standard paint for centuries and is still preferred by fine artists, commercial and automotive painters, etc. The coverage is better, the leveling and open time is better, durability is better, penetration into sunstrates is better and in my opinion the look of an oil based semi cannot be matched for depth of sheen and smoothness. 

Now don't get me wrong, waterborne enamels have come a long way and I use them almost exclusively now, but my reasons have little to do with the quality of finish and a lot to do with the ease of cleanup and the lack of stink.

And no offense, but if you say there is "not much difference" between BM latex and oil, you clearly haven't used much oil in you time painting.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

PatsPainting said:


> To me there is nothing that looks better then oil on interior wood work. Just seems like yesterday if someone said they put water base on interior wood work you would have flipped out. I know it yellows and chit, but I think it holds up much longer, feels much nicer. and just simply looks professional.
> 
> Pat


There are many waterbornes these days that have all the advantages of an oil without the disadvantages (such as the smell, and the yellowing). 

Even the clear finishes these days in waterbornes are starting to catch up with their solvent-born counterparts. 

For example, I just took these photos. One is a pigmented conversion varnish, and one is a latex enamel. I bet you can't tell which is which. They both dried rock hard in almost the same amount of time too.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

These young guys with oil don't mix


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Plus your using crap paint, what do expect?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Why don't you try ace hardware?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Iam so mean tonight


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Rcon said:


> There are many waterbornes these days that have all the advantages of an oil without the disadvantages (such as the smell, and the yellowing).
> 
> Even the clear finishes these days in waterbornes are starting to catch up with their solvent-born counterparts.
> 
> For example, I just took these photos. One is a pigmented conversion varnish, and one is a latex enamel. I bet you can't tell which is which. They both dried rock hard in almost the same amount of time too.


 After i spill coffee on them and let it sit i bet i could tell


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

They will never be able to make water like oil. Remember it only yellows in the closets anyway.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Plus, it's only pictures. Let me feel it and look at it in natural light. I don't think I'd have a problem differentiating, and I bet you don't either, Rcon. "All the advantages of an oil" is surely and exaggeration. Open time alone is not even close.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Plus, it's only pictures. Let me feel it and look at it in natural light. I don't think I'd have a problem differentiating, and I bet you don't either, Rcon. "All the advantages of an oil" is surely and exaggeration. Open time alone is not even close.


Since I didn't have them marked it actually took me a minute to figure out which one was which!! 

True enough about open time, but that's not really an issue when spraying, and I always spray these types of finishes. 

I just don't find much occasion for oil these days. Sometimes, but rarely.


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> Primer plus two finish coats on cabinets is a minimum standard.


:yes:


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Rcon said:


> Since I didn't have them marked it actually took me a minute to figure out which one was which!!
> 
> True enough about open time, but that's not really an issue when spraying, and I always spray these types of finishes.
> 
> I just don't find much occasion for oil these days. Sometimes, but rarely.




Point well taken about spraying.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

DeanV said:


> I still think oils are more durable than any waterborne, but the differences are diminishing as WB technology improves every year. Just used some impervo today. Love brushing it, but hate the clean up hassles. Oil covers better than any WB when you brush it on. You can really lay it on thick.


I agree. We use a lot of oil. We always use oil on metal door jambs, doors, or any other type of steel. It always covers better too. I guess the main downside is with a lot of oils it's hard to two coat in a day. If you use SW DTM oil, you can get a couple coats on in a day no doubt though.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

There is nothing like oil impervo on trim. The new modifieds are good, but there is no substitute for oil. It's a beautiful thing.


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## NaeGan (Jun 16, 2010)

I'm going to have to agree that water will never be oil. During the winter I used to do crap like paint truck wheels and touch up on metal. I always used Colony oil enamel, thinned it a little an brushed it. With a non-sanding primer there were no brush marks. And even at that, sometimes people want brush marks. 
Waterborne may be advancing on solvent because solvent has quit advancing because they are wanting to eliminate it. How about a waterborne varnish vs. good old oil based spar varnish. 
One big advantage of latex, or waterborne vs. oil. Sand and feather out oil and sand and feather out waterborne. I have sprayed latex and sprayed oil on wood. That stickiness keeps oil from sagging like latex will if your not careful. 

Theses are just my opinions. You can get 500 different opinions from all of the guys on here. These are just mine.


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

Got a call for a deck estimate on a new construction job that we did with impervo in 1990.The homeowner commented on how the doors and trim look great! Also the panels were as tight as could be,i remember priming all sides of those 40 or so doors.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Rick the painter said:


> Got a call for a deck estimate on a new construction job that we did with impervo in 1990.The homeowner commented on how the doors and trim look great! Also the panels were as tight as could be,i remember priming all sides of those 40 or so doors.


That does sound convincing, as in 1990 I would have been in grade 6 :jester:

That is a long, long time for paint to look "great" :thumbsup:


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

johnpaint said:


> Why don't you try ace hardware?


I didn't buy the paint, I was forced into using it. I know its cheap.

I also think that it wasn't absolutely necessary to use oil based paint. The customer didn't request it and was mainly looking for a color change.

I don't think the hassle and extra work was figured in the bid either. Now I feel rushed. This sh*t takes forever to dry, and there's a lot of trim as well.

Since I'm the one in charge of the production, it would have been much easier and more efficient for me to use a high quality water based enamel than some low quality oil.

And the results would have been similar. Maybe not as good as a high quality oil, but similar.

Plus its alot safer from a health standpoint for me NOT to be using alkyd paint anyway. 


:whistling2:


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

stlpainter said:


> I didn't buy the paint, I was forced into using it. I know its cheap.
> 
> I also think that it wasn't absolutely necessary to use oil based paint. The customer didn't request it and was mainly looking for a color change.
> 
> ...


That's just how it is with some 'bosses'. 

They don't think of the most efficient, cost effective and quality producing ways to do things. Instead, they somehow think that by buying paint that is $5 cheaper than the better, more efficient product, they are saving money. 

Some people just don't learn. Fine by me. :jester:


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

Promar 200 oil eggshel is a little difficult to work with. The semi gloss isnt so bad. Proclassic oil is real nice. I would lay them off with a foamy. 16 hours for 20 doors? Wow. If you dont like working with oil then maybe go in your own business. That way you can use what you want. If you are a proffessional, have a job and somone is payin you. Be happy. Quit whining.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

stlpainter said:


> I just spent all day painting about 20 cabinet doors with ProMar 200 Alkyd after priming them on Friday, and its not even covering so I have to do it again tomorrow!!!!
> 
> So I thought I would b*tch on here about why I hate using the stuff.
> 
> ...


I *think* you said in one message that you weren't using Penetrol or thinner? If that's the case, then I can see why it was a b!tch to use. For the record.....I recommend Penetrol over thinner


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## Roamer (Jul 5, 2010)

Trouble with the oil paints these days is that they are high solid paints. They tend to drag and sag if you're not careful. Penetrol or any other extender is almost a must. 

All that said, I'd rather paint kitchen cabinets with a high solid alkyd than any water based paint. Latex paint can soften with the summer heat even a year after the job is done. Plus, latex paint may dry quickly but it cures very slowly whereas alkyd paint dries slowly but cures relatively quickly this allows for the cabinets to be used sooner with an alkyd finish than with a latex.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Oil is king with some applications, and this is one.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> I'm going to share with you all a trade secret LC frowns upon giving away but here goes: a great way to clean oil/alkyd off your hands, arms, face, hair, feet, etc, is to use a basic corn oil for cooking with. It works great and no stinky, icky thinner smells. Plus, if you got a date and are in a hurry to get cleaned up and no time for a shower, you can always wip up a batch of cologne oil, just pour some of your favorite cologne in the oil bottle and youre good to go, and treat your girl to a romantic dinner at taco bell or white castle, or whathave you.


Baby oil works too for cleaning oil off your skin, plus it moisturizes :whistling2:


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TheRogueBristle said:


> The only disadvantages of oil are, as I see it, cleanup and smell/toxicity. Any other performance aspect of paint you can think of, oil trumps latex. There's a reason oil has been the standard paint for centuries and is still preferred by fine artists, commercial and automotive painters, etc.


Not to get off topic, but more and more automotive finishes are becoming acrylic. Much much better products, and Sikkens/Akzo Nobel is taking the industry.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

johnpaint said:


> Why don't you try ace hardware?


Blasphemy :yes:


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## Boden Painting (Dec 27, 2007)

I've been using the SW ProClassic Acrylic/Alkyd hybrid with great success on built-ins and trim lately. You have to let it dry thoroughly though.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

I use the pivot pro for cabinet doors. Works great. http://www.painterschatroom.com/store-pivot-pro.html


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Woodland said:


> I use the pivot pro for cabinet doors. Works great. http://www.painterschatroom.com/store-pivot-pro.html


You bought one, eh?

I love mine.....as you know.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

TJ Paint said:


> I'm going to share with you all a trade secret LC frowns upon giving away but here goes: a great way to clean oil/alkyd off your hands, arms, face, hair, feet, etc, is to use a basic corn oil for cooking with. It works great and no stinky, icky thinner smells.



I am not against other people sharing their own trade secrets, I also am not against sharing my trade secrets with anyone who makes their living by painting, and who cares about quality and customer satisfaction.

But I will share a trade secret about how to remove oil from your body,the secret is, it shouldn't be all over your arms, face, hair, and feet.

It shouldn't be on the handle of your brush. It should be on the surface you are painting, and maybe a little on the paper you ran under door casings and doors to protect the floor/carpet from flicks and flecks.

BTW promar 200, what is it?

For oil, impervo is the only way to go.

And if you aren't concerned about VOC's naptha kicks massive ass. Flows out like it is sprayed, dries quicker to the touch for less dust. Is drier and easier to handle the next day.

And if you are spraying, it doesn't hang in the air and make the air and room all sticky.

Just don't add too much, flattens the sheen a little, which ultimately is what it will look like in a few months any way. I like low luster. Looks elegant. Oil impervo has a "glow" to it.

Having said all that, I'm over it. Onwards and upwards. Acrylic whenever I can.

Can't stand breathing oil or lacquer any more.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

VanDamme said:


> You bought one, eh?
> 
> I love mine.....as you know.


Oh yeah, I bought one a few years ago not long after you bought yours. I will never stand up doors in a garage again. :no:


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

In the seventies we use to paint out complete kitchens/baths with oil, brush and roll.The only thing I don't like about oil is trying to find out what to do with the wash.I usually let it set until it settles out and pour it back in the can for the next go around, but it's still a hassle.


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

the best way is not to use it i havent used oil in 2 yrs really no need any more exept some industrial crap


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## stlpainter (Jul 12, 2010)

Alright guys I may have had a change of heart. 

After painting about 300 feet of base-trim today with the same oil paint, it really wasnt that bad.

The consistency was thinned down just right and I definitely made sure to have my respirator on while painting and cleaning up. Didn't even get one whiff of that nasty schit.

And yes it looked pretty good.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Another happy ending.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

stlpainter said:


> Alright guys I may have had a change of heart.
> 
> After painting about 300 feet of base-trim today with the same oil paint, it really wasnt that bad.
> 
> ...


I think when we paint oil, we should wear bunny suites and booties! :blink:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I still can't stand oil. The new waterborne products have much more longevity than oils do.


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## Painting Away (Mar 1, 2010)

That stuff dries soooo quick. I highly recommend using a extender and it work great.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> I still can't stand oil. The new waterborne products have much more longevity than oils do.


You just have to get in a different mind set when painting oil.But I do know what you mean.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

im done using oil.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I still tend to use oil over existing oil, too time consuming to convert in most cases. No waterborne I have seen will look as good 15 years later as oil will though on interior trim.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I still tend to use oil over existing oil, too time consuming to convert in most cases. No waterborne I have seen will look as good 15 years later as oil will though on interior trim.


Not even Aura?
.
Being I do 99% of my work in county's that don't allow the vendors to sell it. I am able to lean on the law to explain the extra cost to convert it to water.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

DeanV;152992I have seen will look as good 15 years later as oil will though on interior trim.[/quote said:


> They should be paying us to go in every 8 years at least to repaint the place.
> 
> No need for it to last 15 years.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

high fibre said:


> im done using oil.



me too.

Fak it.

It was hard to let go of. I spent a long time perfecting the process of painting with oil.

But I love acrylic now. I really love how fast it dries. And not cleaing the pump with paint thinner. And not breathing it. And the color retention. etc.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

As much as I like Aura, I would tend to doubt it. I have used a lot of Graham Ceramic Satin and Aura is the first waterborne to match or beat its hardness (would take some kind of scientific testing to measure more accurately than that) that I have tried. Graham would not hold up as well as oil over a long time. I just touched up the oil on a home that was painted last in 1997 on the trim paneling going up the stair way. It was really only needed because the trim had been chipped down to the lacquer layer (it had been converted to being painted). The home is on its second family, has children and two enormous dogs that have free roam of the house. I just do not see waterborne matching that. 

I will still use waterborne whenever possible.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> me too.
> 
> Fak it.
> 
> ...



And not getting that thinner burn on your ass. Cause you put the rag with thinner in your back pocket.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> And not getting that thinner burn on your ass. Cause you put the rag with thinner in your back pocket.


That is no funny matter at at all. takes about threes weeks to get over that.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I've been using Benjamin Moore Iron Clad over previously painted oilbase doors. The only prep I did was degrease, and sand. Still holding up great, and retaining color in direct sunlight from southern exposure.

However recently in a pinch, I purchased some Kilz Odorless oil base primer from Home Depot. I needed to prime over some wall covering adhesive that was applied to bare sheet rock. That stuff really has low to no odor! And it dried to a tight finish for my skim coat of mud.

No point really, just an observation.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

CApainter said:


> I've been using Benjamin Moore Iron Clad over previously painted oilbase doors. The only prep I did was degrease, and sand. Still holding up great, and retaining color in direct sunlight from southern exposure.
> 
> However recently in a pinch, I purchased some Kilz Odorless oil base primer from Home Depot. I needed to prime over some wall covering adhesive that was applied to bare sheet rock. That stuff really has low to no odor! And it dried to a tight finish for my skim coat of mud.
> 
> No point really, just an observation.



I sitll use oil for certain priming purposes. Sometimes it is all that will work.

Be careful with the "no odor" thing. It implies but doesn't necessarily mean that it is not toxic. It could still be frying your synapses, but doing it with no smell.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> I sitll use oil for certain priming purposes. Sometimes it is all that will work.
> 
> Be careful with the "no odor" thing. It implies but doesn't necessarily mean that it is not toxic. It could still be frying your synapses, but doing it with no smell.


I can't afford any more lapses in my synapses, so I'll heed your warning.

Note: I did use a respirator when I applied this product.

http://www.e-barnett.com/MSDS/003127.pdf


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I was impressed with the odorlessness because the fugitive vapors didn't cause any concern amongst other personnel in the area, or adjacent rooms.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

CApainter said:


> I was impressed with the odorlessness because the fugitive vapors didn't cause any concern amongst other personnel in the area, or adjacent rooms.



I agree. We actually use it for that purpose as well.

I actually don't feel bad about non-painters having to breath it once.

I have been exposed 10,000 times more than any HO, and I can function relatively well.

I don't think being exposed once in ten years does any damage whatsoever.

I wish I could go back to even the level of having been exposed 50 times, or even 100 times.

This day and age if people can even smell paint at all, they think they are going to get a brain tumor from the experience.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

CApainter said:


> I've been using Benjamin Moore Iron Clad over previously painted oilbase doors. The only prep I did was degrease, and sand. Still holding up great, and retaining color in direct sunlight from southern exposure.
> 
> However recently in a pinch, I purchased some Kilz Odorless oil base primer from Home Depot. I needed to prime over some wall covering adhesive that was applied to bare sheet rock. That stuff really has low to no odor! And it dried to a tight finish for my skim coat of mud.
> 
> No point really, just an observation.


Careful now,,, your subject to get beaten severly about the head and shoulders for mentioning Kilz around here.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Careful now,,, your subject to get beaten severly about the head and shoulders for mentioning Kilz around here.


Come on! who wouldn't be privileged enough to use the ancient palygorskite
clay mineral found in Kilz, a mineral that was once used by the ancient Mayans for their decorative Mayan Blue! 

Capt. Rocky, I'm appalled!


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> Baby oil works too for cleaning oil off your skin, plus it moisturizes :whistling2:


 
I discovered skin so soft back in 1992 from an old GF that got tired of kissing a guy with mineral spirits for aftershave lol. I have seen my Uncle Baptize his head in the spirits... in 105 degree 100% humidity FL no less.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

TheRogueBristle said:


> The only disadvantages of oil are, as I see it, cleanup and smell/toxicity. Any other performance aspect of paint you can think of, oil trumps latex. There's a reason oil has been the standard paint for centuries and is still preferred by fine artists, commercial and automotive painters, etc. The coverage is better, the leveling and open time is better, durability is better, penetration into sunstrates is better and in my opinion the look of an oil based semi cannot be matched for depth of sheen and smoothness.
> 
> Now don't get me wrong, waterborne enamels have come a long way and I use them almost exclusively now, but my reasons have little to do with the quality of finish and a lot to do with the ease of cleanup and the lack of stink.
> 
> And no offense, but if you say there is "not much difference" between BM latex and oil, you clearly haven't used much oil in you time painting.


 I'd have to agree 100%. Latex cleans up better and goes on like butter but doesn't cover like oil. I can't stand brushing on ultra white bases of latex. You can see right thru the stuff. F&H Finest Finish Alkyd in high gloss is the best finish I ever saw. My dad would scoff at all the crappy new homes we did repaints in in the 90's. Latex over dirt and caulk. Don't ever think about sanding that crap out. House looks like crap forever. All the work my old man did back in the 50's(window sash lites in oil,etc.) is a thing of the past.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

Oh, I love oil. I just can't deal with the stink and the mask all day.

Impervo all the way!!!! In some areas I believe it may still be called Iron Clad....but it is a beauty!

I feel your pain!

You can ask the boss man to give your idea a whirl and maybe place a wager on it....

like I used to wager a days pay.....if I could do so and so.....because I KNEW better! and of coarse get it my way!!!:thumbsup:


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## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

They've taken most all the dryers out of alkyd paints due to environmental laws, hence you have to brush just the minimal amount on or it will run and sag. Adding thinner will help some, but not much. Adding Penetrol will tend to keep the paint "wet" but will make it run and sag even more. I've had limited success adding Japan Dryer which most paint stores don't carry anymore. You can still buy it at art supply stores.


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## c65jones (Mar 27, 2011)

Just my opinion here. Latex/acrylic paints are advancing, and oils are doing the opposite. Manufacturers are putting no research into oils because there is no long term return in it. It probably won't be long until government regulations prevent manufacturing oils at all for residential use. Currently most oil paints being produced are produced in Canada. Most of the guts that were used to make oils good can not be used in oil paints any longer. Premium acrylics have or will soon be as good or better then oils in most every way. Whether that's good or bad, ?


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Promar 200 is garbage. Pro Classic or at least Classic 99 if your going SW. I dont understand cutting corners on a set of cabinets with cheap paint to save just a few bucks.


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