# Ext. Door Clear Coat Suggestions?



## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

This door is just six years old. Client says it gets full sun much of the day. The sidelights seem to get some protection, no peeling issues. 

So I’m going to sand off as much as I can, then stain with a custom mix of tube oil and mineral spirits. I have only done one other exterior door like this with the same sun issue. I used Minwax Spar Varnish on that. ( my friend insisted I use it, he has since realized he made a mistake) It failed after about three years. 

Anyone have a clear coat recommendation that might withstand the harsh sun?





View attachment 102083
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For some reason it wants to be sideways


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

Waterlox Marine you will only need a quart. Tung oil based. I dont have a picture of it but I used minwax spar on a Mahogany door on one of my rentals over 20 yr ago and got about 3 yr. It cracked and peeled and bleached out. After the failure I painted it twice. A few years later stripped it, applied two coats of Waterlox original sealer and two coats of Waterlox marine. The marine is pretty thick so you can thin it about 25 percent. I apply it with a brush. You can wet sand, rub it out, wax it, very forgiving finish. Can clean/renew it with 0000 steel wool and Rejuvenate. Can refresh every 3 - 5 yr with another coat. Its not poly but some phenolic resin that is flexible and will expand with heat and sun. The wood may darken or yellow but the finish does not. Have about 10yr on that refinish and have only cleaned it twice. Gets a lot of sun and moisture in the form of high Charleston SC humidity. CAUTION for a partial can...add marbles or sqeeze the can to get all the air out. Air will cause the resin to polimerize and ruin partial cans within a few hours. Attached is a picture of the squeezed can of Waterlox Original sealer. Before any of you perfectionists comment, the walnut table in the background will get a few more coats and will be wet sanded to fill all the grain.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

cetol/skikkensdoor & window


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks, guys. I will look into those.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Water lox is a good line of products. Never used any ext. products but I have it on my hard wood floors in my house. Nine years and still holding up pretty well.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I’ve had excellent results with Sikkens Window and Door, but the color choices might not work in your situation.

I’d highly recommend is sealing the door with Smith’s Penetrating Epoxy first. This will limit the types of stains you can use, but it really helps clear coats last longer. The Smith’s website has some great info if you’re willing to take the time to read it: http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html

Epifanes Varnish would be an excellent product to use over Smith’s. This system was recommend by a local marine supply store in my area. The clerk who helped me was an old timer who really knew his stuff. He showed me an oar he refinished using this system and it was spectacular. 


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

PNW Painter said:


> I’ve had excellent results with Sikkens Window and Door, but the color choices might not work in your situation.
> 
> I’d highly recommend is sealing the door with Smith’s Penetrating Epoxy first. This will limit the types of stains you can use, but it really helps clear coats last longer. The Smith’s website has some great info if you’re willing to take the time to read it: http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html
> 
> ...


In that article for new wood doors:

_1. Apply a transparent oil-base stain. The pigment accumulates in more porous areas, emphasizing porosity by color. It does not seal wood porosity. This allows better impregnation of wood. Brush on and wipe off, and see how it accumulates more in the more porous areas of the wood, emphasizing the grain patterns.

Allow the stain to fully cure so it is resistant to the solvents of the CPES. This typically takes four days.

2. CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™ and MultiWoodPrime™ are the same product.

3. Topcoat_

http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html

Sounds like they are recommending varnish as the topcoat. What year was this article published 1960? kidding.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

PNW Painter said:


> I’ve had excellent results with Sikkens Window and Door, but the color choices might not work in your situation.
> 
> I’d highly recommend is sealing the door with Smith’s Penetrating Epoxy first. This will limit the types of stains you can use, but it really helps clear coats last longer. The Smith’s website has some great info if you’re willing to take the time to read it: http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html
> 
> ...



The Dalys seafin penetrating sealer/waterproofer is popular for that too. Urethane based not epoxy and used as a pre conditioner. Compatible with most stains and top coats.


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## sayn3ver (Jan 9, 2010)

Never used waterlox for exterior work. Have worked with it on an interior piece a while ago. It's a modified Tung oil. Slow drying. I applied with some old cotton undershirts, several coats. Then rubbed it out and applied a wax. Once again only an interior piece with low use. It is easy to repair and has a following with wood counter tops and site finished hardwood people who don't want the plastic film build of water poly. 

But the Marine gets decent reviews like mentioned above. 

Pay attention to storage concerns as oxygen exposure can kick it off in the can if I remember. 

I never considered using the Marine for exterior wooden doors which seems like an Excellent idea.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

sayn3ver said:


> Never used waterlox for exterior work. Have worked with it on an interior piece a while ago. It's a modified Tung oil. Slow drying. I applied with some old cotton undershirts, several coats. Then rubbed it out and applied a wax. Once again only an interior piece with low use. It is easy to repair and has a following with wood counter tops and site finished hardwood people who don't want the plastic film build of water poly.
> 
> But the Marine gets decent reviews like mentioned above.
> 
> ...



I use these when partially full cans, seems to work anyway.

http://www.bloxygen.com/


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

Bloxygen or Wine saver, I think it is Nitrogen, works good for storing partial cans of Waterlox but sometimes you dont get all the air purged. I have found that a good clamp will work once you can't squeeze it any more with your hands. I get mine at paintsource.net. There is a low voc version but I have not used it. Thin with VM&P naptha to get a faster dry time. Clean up with paint thinner. Smells wicked and takes 30 days to full hardness. As mentioned biggest advantage over poly is its repairability and non-plastic look.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Do you know what product was applied to that door?


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Do you know what product was applied to that door?



It's the original finish from the factory. The homeowner says it is out of the warranty time period.

He was supposed to treat it with something yearly, but didn't. He's supposed to be sending me the info sheet on the door to see what product that should have been used.

I told him up front that I would research a 'stronger' clear coat, but I couldn't say for sure that it won't happen again.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Man-o-War varnish is all we use so far. Tried and true, and the shine on the gloss lasts for 2-3 years pretty good. Very happy so far. 

I've been pushing for sherwin to bring it in, but they aren't able to. Once of the few products I pick up at Dunn Edwards because they are the only local supplier.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

woodcoyote said:


> Man-o-War varnish is all we use so far. Tried and true, and the shine on the gloss lasts for 2-3 years pretty good. Very happy so far.
> 
> I've been pushing for sherwin to bring it in, but they aren't able to. Once of the few products I pick up at Dunn Edwards because they are the only local supplier.


mccloskey is a sherwin owned brand lol


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

https://thefinishingstore.com/blogs/news/tip-uv-varnishes-only-give-so-so-protection


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> mccloskey is a sherwin owned brand lol



Not anymore. They spun off Valpsar's wood finishing division pretty much the moment they got it. Happened months and months ago. 



It's actually owned by another company now which kept the name the same. So it is actually considered an outside vendor.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Sooo, I’m a dope. Yeah, it’s a solid wood door. But it has a fake oak veneer, my Budeke’s guy says it is probably fiberglass. Well how am I supposed to know that,lol. 

No wood conditioner, guess I’ll return that.













I’m going with the Sikkens clear coat, mostly because it was the easiest to find.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

fauxlynn said:


> Sooo, I’m a dope. Yeah, it’s a solid wood door. But it has a fake oak veneer, my Budeke’s guy says it is probably fiberglass. Well how am I supposed to know that,lol.
> 
> No wood conditioner, guess I’ll return that.
> 
> ...


If its fiberglass, then just clean it and paint it. Latex will hold up better than oil as it will be able to move (expand and contract)more than a rigid oil.

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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Except, the homeowner doesn’t want it painted. 
I’m in the process of fixing it....almost done


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