# Macropoxy 646



## Dmax Consulting

I am using Macropoxy 646 on a rusty iron fountain at a condo community. Macropoxy is a 2 component poly amide epoxy that can be used in immersion applications. I have read about it and used to sell it, but this is the first time that I actually used it myself.

Wow...this stuff is hard core!

Super adhesion, super leveling, great hide - but it is messy, smelly, has a ton of drag, and cleans up with reducer 15. 

I got a drop of coating/solvent in my eye while I was cleaning my brush ...I will be wearing safety goggles for the 2nd coat.

Anyone have experience using this product?...advice?


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## TJ Paint

no, but thanks. why you even bother cleaning a brush out. that stuff probably kicked its ass and bristles anyway.


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## [email protected]

I agree with TJ that is one reson I keep worn out brushes for jobs like that.Way cheeper than buying r-15 thinner


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## Dmax Consulting

No kidding,

The reducer 15 cost me $24/gallon.

You live, you learn


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## painter213

I have been around it for years. What do you want to know?? You can brush with it, but it is best to keep the brushing to stripe coating only. We have rolled it onto tank exteriors a lot and sprayed with it just as much when the job allows. It is a Surface Tolerant Epoxy. Suited for surfaces where you cannot get the best surface prep done. When used in Immersion Service you still have to give the surface at least a SSPC SP-10 Near White Blast finish though. The surface tolerant is for Atmospheric Service only. If you want to know more, just give me a call anytime.


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## ibsocal

Gone through thousands of gallons of polyamide epoxies via airless,conventional,hvlp,roll,brush and dauber wool skin and never once cleaned a brush roller or dauber.they are throw aways due to the nature of the beast .......
Acetone,MEK,laquer thinner and xylene work well as a thinner,I never ever buy what they recomond unless it is a government (DOD) type job or check points required.get the cheap natural bristle brushes from harbor freight,tap brush several times on a hard edege surface to remove loose hairs prior to epoxy application and roller skins should be lightly wire brushed then ran on sticky side of duct tape to remove loose fibers same with wool.works great on sp-3 and sp-11 mechanicly cleaned substrates.


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## painter213

If your not using the required thinner to thin the product with then your throwing the warranty right out the window Ibsocal. Don't use it to clean up with, but you really need to thin with the required thinner. Just a little advice. One failure can make or break.


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## ibsocal

As usual Benny U offer great 411.I am not worried about any coating failures for which I have stated above.I absoulutley refuse to drink the Kool Aid that you need to thin with the required thinner as I will go with compatibles or generic thinners(trix of the Trade) learned from years of back breaking hands on experience as a Sandblaster/painter.Qc and coatings inspector.


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## painter213

Most people are not worried about coating failures either until they happen and then it all hits the fan. As a coatings inspector, I would not allow the use of another solvent in a coating used on my job other than what the coating manufacture recommends. This way the customer is getting what they are paying for. As a inspector yourself, you should know that. Also, using another solvent than what is specified, you are altering the chemistry make-up of the finished coating system as well. This could lead to minum performance on down the road. It might work until your warranty is up, but the customer is paying for a high performance system and he is getting a High performance system built with after market parts. I know that the solvent evaporates out of the coating, but do we want the solvent to evaporate to quiclky or to slowly?? This could lead to severe problems. By evaporating to slowly, you could wind up with solvent entrapment and you know what would happen with entraped solvent in a coating system used as a immersion coating. "Blistering"!! Anyway, do as you want, but you would not get away with it on one of my jobs unless you had the manufacture to sign off on it first saying that they would accept the subsituted thinner. By the way, are you a NACE Inspector?


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## ibsocal

I disagree,I beleive most people are worried about coating failures including yours trully BUT I know what works for me with long lasting results that have met the service life of the coatings applied ,appling manny types of coatings for close to 30 years has taught me lots of lessons learned and to not shy away from passing on any tips to others who ask free of any charge.use it or lose it. I feel nace is way Over priced (fee's) to get in on any type of their certifications.dont inspect professionally anymore,hate dog and pony shows and the BS that goes along with being in.


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## CApainter

ibsocal said:


> As usual Benny U offer great 411.I am not worried about any coating failures for which I have stated above.*I absoulutley refuse to drink the Kool Aid that you need to thin with the required thinner as I will go with compatibles or generic thinners*(trix of the Trade) learned from years of back breaking hands on experience as a Sandblaster/painter.Qc and coatings inspector.


The statement in bold fonts is true to a certain extent. The problem with generics is the quality assurance issues. Anyone in the industrial end of the trade knows you can thin just about anything with MEK. But for the few extra bucks, why not stick with the manufacturers line for the warranty guarantee.


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## CApainter

ibsocal said:


> I disagree,I beleive most people are worried about coating failures including yours trully BUT I know what works for me with long lasting results that have met the service life of the coatings applied ,appling manny types of coatings for close to 30 years has taught me lots of lessons learned and to not shy away from passing on any tips to others who ask free of any charge.use it or lose it. I feel nace is way Over priced (fee's) to get in on any type of their certifications.dont inspect professionally anymore,hate dog and pony shows and the BS that goes along with being in.


I believe your credibility is enhanced with a NACE certification, because it is recognized industry wide. Coating standards should be followed and maintained as described by NACE and SSPC.


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## CApainter

CApainter said:


> The statement in bold fonts is true to a certain extent. The problem with generics is the quality assurance issues. Anyone in the industrial end of the trade knows you can thin just about anything with MEK. But for the few extra bucks, why not stick with the manufacturers line for the warranty guarantee.


Also, certain NSF approved applications require a certain thinner. For example; Devoe's Bar Rust 233 epoxy requires the use of a particular thinner when in contact with drinking water. Any breech of this requirement can result in hefty fines and possible prison time for negligence.


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## painter213

Pay now or pay later is what they say.


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## ibsocal

Good stuff guys.remember this is about a rusty fountain in a condo community and NOT for a critical coatings environment.Nace can kiss my ace:yes:.pay a large fee, continue to pay fee to be active or cert lapses your so right about what they say.Sorry but I worked with lots of nace certed people and to me had no clue other than what they were coached and read from a manual/test:no:so not impressed, as they let anyone in who will pay up.U dont have to know what I mean as it is what it is.I also know there are many many qualified and legit nace cert holders but I refuse to pay to play in that arena...........


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