# Inset cabinets



## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

Does anyone have any experience painting these?
my primary concern is potential for the doors to not close for build up from multiple coats of paint. 
I don't think this will be a problem though, from the look of things.

Anyone have anything to add to this thread? This makes me wonder if we should compile like a painter's encylopedia. So many little things to look out for!


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I've done two sets like that. They're way harder to do and make look nice than typical cabinets so charge accordingly. The one set I had to play with just about every hinge because they were all rubbing before we started, that sucked but I knew it going in. Adding some layers of paint shouldn't make them rub there should be enough room between the frame and door to accommodate some paint. This is the last set I did and I'm assuming this is the kind of frame you're referring to.










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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

yeah, similar.

Harder to look nice? What kind of challenges were you coming into? 
I didn't think to check these doors for rubbing when I visited for an estimate. 
Thankfully they're already painted, so i won't need to put too many coats on.


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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

They actually look great, but they want gray instead.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Will you be spraying, or brushing/rolling? I'm also doing a set like this. My concern is that where I usually spray my doors and roll boxes, that there will be a texture difference..

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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

I never brush/roll because of the sheen difference. At least with breakthrough on an hvlp--


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Center_line_Painting said:


> I never brush/roll because of the sheen difference. At least with breakthrough on an hvlp--


So your spraying Breakthrough with an hvlp?

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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

yeah, it's always worked well for me. A little tricky at first, but after some practice it's a solid method. (high voc)


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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

if you haven't bid for spraying the boxes before it's actually quite a lot of labor. I just started in a new state...so no workers yet...and it's like pulling teeth sometimes, but the results always blow people away.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Center_line_Painting said:


> yeah, similar.
> 
> Harder to look nice? What kind of challenges were you coming into?
> I didn't think to check these doors for rubbing when I visited for an estimate.
> Thankfully they're already painted, so i won't need to put too many coats on.


I used the high VOC breakthrough brush and rolled the frames and sprayed the doors. Breakthrough isn't exactly the easiest paint to work with by hand and you have a perfectly sprayed finish 1/4inch away so there's no room for any mistakes, those frames need to look as close to sprayed as humanly possible or it's just not going to look nice. 

I just find them way more stressful, didn't help that the customer was a SUPER PICKY lawyer either. I'm a pretty chill even keeled guy but that one really had me on edge and stressed out over which isn't something I don't experience much. It came out great and I made a pretty penny on it but it wasn't fun.

The other set I did where all the hinges were out of wack were already painted like the ones you showed and that was a lot easier because it was less coats so less of a texture/brush marks to build and worry about. Fixing and shimming every single hinge took forever (70 doors) but was ultimately easier on me. 

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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

woah 70?
Geeze!
I haven't gotten any sets like that yet. 

Yeah man, I do it sprayed all the way...I'm not messing with brush and roll, especially this circumstance. That does sound stressful. 
I might experiment more though with brushing in other circumstances. 

What roller do you use and how much do you thin?
I do sometimes lose customers that want a cheaper bid, and brush and roll cuts days of labor out of the total cost.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Center_line_Painting said:


> woah 70?
> Geeze!
> I haven't gotten any sets like that yet.
> 
> ...


I don't thin it, the high VOC breakthrough is so thin out of the can I'm too chicken to thin it more. I'm not so sure spraying would take longer I'm thinking it would take around the same amount of time especially when going from stained to paint where, if going from dark to straight white, it takes four total coats. Sure masking is super time consuming but you'd save time on the actual painting for sure. 

It's less invasive for the customer that's for sure. Spraying requires the kitchen to be out of commission and they have to dump everything. 70 cabs full plus drawers is an insane amount of stuff to empty.

The best way I've found is to use a Whizz brand microfiber mini roller and tip it off with a brush. 


BTW the one in the picture had almost 60 doors which included the master bath vanities and another bath vanity. The one with 70 had an upper third row which really added a lot more doors.


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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

huh.
Yeah I've brushed the straight low voc breakthrough on a cabinet set frame once and wasn't happy, I'll try roll then tip off like you mentioned. 

People don't actually have to empty the cabinets or drawers when you're masking. just the protruding items. I typically tell people to gather the most important items for a few days. Everyone I've encountered has been alright with it. Especially if the alternative is total replacement of the set.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Center_line_Painting said:


> huh.
> Yeah I've brushed the straight low voc breakthrough on a cabinet set frame once and wasn't happy, I'll try roll then tip off like you mentioned.
> 
> People don't actually have to empty the cabinets or drawers when you're masking. just the protruding items. I typically tell people to gather the most important items for a few days. Everyone I've encountered has been alright with it. Especially if the alternative is total replacement of the set.


I've only sprayed a set once and it was empty but we were painting it both inside and out. I just assumed you'd need them empty just incase. How you mask them when they have shelves bump right against the inside edge of the frame that don't move or when they have have the roll out drawers in the bottom cabs? Do you have to disassemble them all? Almost every set down here has them, I'd have to think that would make masking a lot more difficult. 

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

There are definitely certain kitchens that I wish I sprayed. Some of the old Oak ones I don't care so much about, but when you get I to the really nice birch ones with lots of detail, it can start to look like garbage. Especially if there are lots of fancy posts and brackets and crap.
HVLP would certainly be the easier way to go. Or the AAA, if you got the cash to throw down..


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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

When there are drawers in the lower cabinet doors, some things must be removed. Clients have always been very happy to assist with that. I've had some fears with the "just in case" scenario that the masking blows out in a corner or something, but even when that happens, the hvlp puts out such minimal material that it's a non-problem. Almost every set I do the masking comes off a little here or there in some corner, and even with nice china just inches away, there's no issue. 

Sounds risky, but it actually isn't. I am looking to use a stronger tape though than the SW 2020 masking tape to see if it helps prevent that scenario. Trying the orange shurtape next. 

I haven't encountered non-movable shelving yet, actually. Both in South NJ and western NC I haven't come across that scenario...but I'll be on the lookout when I do bids now! There could be a workaround.....I'd need to see myself in that scenario.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Center_line_Painting said:


> When there are drawers in the lower cabinet doors, some things must be removed. Clients have always been very happy to assist with that. I've had some fears with the "just in case" scenario that the masking blows out in a corner or something, but even when that happens, the hvlp puts out such minimal material that it's a non-problem. Almost every set I do the masking comes off a little here or there in some corner, and even with nice china just inches away, there's no issue.
> 
> Sounds risky, but it actually isn't. I am looking to use a stronger tape though than the SW 2020 masking tape to see if it helps prevent that scenario. Trying the orange shurtape next.
> 
> I haven't encountered non-movable shelving yet, actually. Both in South NJ and western NC I haven't come across that scenario...but I'll be on the lookout when I do bids now! There could be a workaround.....I'd need to see myself in that scenario.


I see a lot of those with a built in shelf that rides tight with the edge. I was aways curious how that was handled when masking them up. Definitely worth looking for when bidding, ya never know! 

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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Center_line_Painting said:


> I never brush/roll because of the sheen difference. At least with breakthrough on an hvlp--


If you shoot product through the gun into your cut pot first you can avoid that. Same on an airless. And it also eliminates that issue with dark colors. The one where the touch up looks different than what was sprayed....a slightly different color...

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## Center_line_Painting (Jun 4, 2017)

huh. never thought of that. Wild!


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