# cabinet door drying rack



## pwc (May 13, 2016)

about 10 years ago I bought a set of drying racks and dont remember their name or where I got them. I would like some more jus like them . hope you can help me out.

they look like twp pieces of galvanized pipe 4 ft tall bolted to the wall, side be side. each pipe has 20 holes in it with a metal dowels sholved tru the holes, making the ams that support the cabinet doors when drying. when not in use, it rotates flat to the wall completely out of the way.

I kmow I could make one, but would be a lot eaiser if I could find these again.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Try door deckers instead


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

These


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## KamRad (Nov 30, 2015)

Nice


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## Gracobucks (May 29, 2011)

I have looked at door deckers a few times, but everytime I see the price I walk away. Have you ever had a door decker fall off when carrying a door?
what size of screws do you use?


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

The screws included are fine. We use a self tapping 2" inch screw. Works very well.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Gracobucks said:


> I have looked at door deckers a few times, but everytime I see the price I walk away. Have you ever had a door decker fall off when carrying a door?
> what size of screws do you use?


Price is cheap compared to how fast, how many and how professionally you can spray multiple doors. We have 50 sets and they have been paid for many times over with the profits.


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## 7.31psd (Feb 9, 2016)

If I could upload pics I'd show you mine I built. Blows door deckers out or the water. Especially on price and function for cab doors. I bored holes on a bevel with drill press into 2x4's and staggered the holes. Then put them on 2x4 legs with braces. Used 1/2" conduit for poles with tape on them and held like 80 doors and drawer fronts on them. Worked awesome and cheaper then anything else and I haven't found a down side yet other then mobility. 

If someone helped me download photos I'd put some up and show you. Pretty slick


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

7.31psd said:


> If I could upload pics I'd show you mine I built. Blows door deckers out or the water. Especially on price and function for cab doors. I bored holes on a bevel with drill press into 2x4's and staggered the holes. Then put them on 2x4 legs with braces. Used 1/2" conduit for poles with tape on them and held like 80 doors and drawer fronts on them. Worked awesome and cheaper then anything else and I haven't found a down side yet other then mobility.
> 
> If someone helped me download photos I'd put some up and show you. Pretty slick


I will try and explain how to post photographs.

Assuming you already have photos of the racks in your computer:

Type a sentence telling us, "here are some pictures of my home-made drying racks."

Then, scroll below the text box and click on the "Manage Attachments" button.

A box will open. Click on the "Browse" button. You will then go to the area in your computer that houses your photos. When you find a photo you wish to share, highlight that photo with a click, then click the "Open" button you should see on your computer (not on this site). 

After clicking on "Open," you should see here an "Upload" button. Click it.

That's it...To see if these steps worked for you, click on the "Preview Post" button below the text box. You should then see your text and your photo. By the way, just repeat these steps before clicking on preview post button to add more than one photo to your message.

I hope this made sense.


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## pwc (May 13, 2016)

7.31psd said:


> If I could upload pics I'd show you mine I built. Blows door deckers out or the water. Especially on price and function for cab doors. I bored holes on a bevel with drill press into 2x4's and staggered the holes. Then put them on 2x4 legs with braces. Used 1/2" conduit for poles with tape on them and held like 80 doors and drawer fronts on them. Worked awesome and cheaper then anything else and I haven't found a down side yet other then mobility.
> 
> If someone helped me download photos I'd put some up and show you. Pretty slick


thanks I would be interested in seeing this.


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## pwc (May 13, 2016)

Zoomer said:


> Try door deckers instead


thanks, but I just cant see using any system that loads bottom to top. too much risk of dropping dust onto wet surface.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

SemiproJohn said:


> I will try and explain how to post photographs.
> 
> Assuming you already have photos of the racks in your computer:
> 
> ...


Or get a Photobucket account. It's free and very easy to use.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

There's always these.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> There's always these.


Those look nice. Not sure how they'd hold up.

I was thinking of making ours out of 1/2" steel pipe and then gluing wax paper to the rails.

I know people tape poles so they won't stick etc. But anyone ever try wax paper? Works good for other things.


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## Gracobucks (May 29, 2011)

Those are good but with the door deckers you can spray both sides at once.


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

i am still doing things the old school way .... 

spray both sides and hang to dry








































.


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## 7.31psd (Feb 9, 2016)

slinger58 said:


> There's always these.


Mine are similar to these. I erased my photo I had I guess. I'll set them up in the garage later and show them then.

I thought about doing the hanging thing. I can't bring myself to putting screws into the doors. My hiccup, but just can't, especially after paying 35 to 70 bucks a door.


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## 7.31psd (Feb 9, 2016)

woodcoyote said:


> Those look nice. Not sure how they'd hold up.
> 
> I was thinking of making ours out of 1/2" steel pipe and then gluing wax paper to the rails.
> 
> I know people tape poles so they won't stick etc. But anyone ever try wax paper? Works good for other things.


I agree wax paper would work. Tap seemed faster and also worked well. I think I might use sch 80 pvc or electrical conduit if I ever do another.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Gracobucks said:


> Those are good but with the door deckers you can spray both sides at once.


Good point


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## pwc (May 13, 2016)

slinger58 said:


> There's always these.


that looks like what I wiĺ do. Do you have any trouble with the doors sticking between coats to the bracket.. I see that there is very little contact area.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

pwc said:


> that looks like what I wiĺ do. Do you have any trouble with the doors sticking between coats to the bracket.. I see that there is very little contact area.


As you pointed out, there's very little contact area. Last Monday I used Pro-Classic Acrylic Semi-gloss on a set of cab doors. I sprayed 2 coats on the back, then 2 coats on the front all in the same day. There was no issue with the doors sticking to the rack.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

woodcoyote said:


> Those look nice. Not sure how they'd hold up.
> 
> I was thinking of making ours out of 1/2" steel pipe and then gluing wax paper to the rails.
> 
> I know people tape poles so they won't stick etc. But anyone ever try wax paper? Works good for other things.


They hold up very well. I've loaded them with some large MDF cab doors and they've never failed. The one issue I need to address is the 2x4 legs that are attached at the bottom with 4 large wood screws. After removing them (to transport) and reattaching so many times, the screw holes get wallowed out and the rack will start to tilt if you load just one side. 

When I get around to addressing that, I'm going to get one of my carpenter friends to help me with a solution.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

slinger58 said:


> After removing them (to transport) and reattaching so many times, the screw holes get wallowed out and the rack will start to tilt if you load just one side.
> 
> When I get around to addressing that, I'm going to get one of my carpenter friends to help me with a solution.


I got a solution for yah. 

Hex bolts. 

Might have to do a small rework of your bade depending on how it's built, but the Hex bolts work great.

Just bore the hole for both boards and tighten up. Just make sure to have washers so you don't dig too badly into the wood.

If you have an impact drill, setup is even faster. Get an adaptor with the right size socket and you can tighten the bolts in seconds.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

woodcoyote said:


> I got a solution for yah.
> 
> Hex bolts.
> 
> ...


A lesson I learned from some other gear that requires frequent assembly/disassembly: Tee-nuts. No worries about fumbling/losing nuts and washers. Get the kind with holes for brads, not prongs. That was lesson #2.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

So y'all spray, let dry, flip, spray, let dry, flip, spray second coat, let dry, then flip again, spray, let dry. 

Sounds like a waste of time, I'd be done in half those steps. :yes: 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> So y'all spray, let dry, flip, spray, let dry, flip, spray second coat, let dry, then flip again, spray, let dry. Sounds like a waste of time, I'd be done in half those steps. :yes: Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


Spray 2 coats on back side first, let dry then spray 2 coats on front side.


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## Chuck the painter (Sep 16, 2015)

There's a guy on YouTube , the Idaho painter.... he drills small holes on the unseen part of cabinet doors and applies hooks. He then hangs them to wooden hangers & onto a pic frame for spraying. You can turn the hanger to get both sides sprayed. He then hangs the hanger to an extended extension ladder proper up on two 6' foot ladders to dry.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Chuck the painter said:


> There's a guy on YouTube , the Idaho painter.... he drills small holes on the unseen part of cabinet doors and applies hooks. He then hangs them to wooden hangers & onto a pic frame for spraying. You can turn the hanger to get both sides sprayed. He then hangs the hanger to an extended extension ladder proper up on two 6' foot ladders to dry.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk




Yeah, RepaintFlorida uses that method as well. He's got an awesome thread about his procedure on here. 

I have flirted with the idea myself, it would certainly speed production. My hesitation to implement it comes from the advantage you get in flow from spraying horizontally. With Breakthrough, Advance, or whatever I'm using I can apply a full mil coat and get great flow without worry of runs. Except maybe on the edges where you do have to be careful. Nice to have gravity on your side. 

I finish the backs first, then flip for the fronts, as previously mentioned. Minimizes handling with the horizontal method. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Chuck the painter said:


> There's a guy on YouTube , the Idaho painter.... he drills small holes on the unseen part of cabinet doors and applies hooks. He then hangs them to wooden hangers & onto a pic frame for spraying. You can turn the hanger to get both sides sprayed. He then hangs the hanger to an extended extension ladder proper up on two 6' foot ladders to dry.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


See post #16


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## Chuck the painter (Sep 16, 2015)

Jmayspaint said:


> Yeah, RepaintFlorida uses that method as well. He's got an awesome thread about his procedure on here.
> 
> I have flirted with the idea myself, it would certainly speed production. My hesitation to implement it comes from the advantage you get in flow from spraying horizontally. With Breakthrough, Advance, or whatever I'm using I can apply a full mil coat and get great flow without worry of runs. Except maybe on the edges where you do have to be careful. Nice to have gravity on your side.
> 
> ...


Yep, I'm a door decker guy for big doors. But, I need a faster system for cabinets. The Idaho guy sprays 2 prime , 2 finish with a cap spray hvlp. SLC, Utah is voc free & I'm limited to Bin cover stain shellac for a primer.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

Chuck the painter said:


> There's a guy on YouTube , the Idaho painter.... he drills small holes on the unseen part of cabinet doors and applies hooks. He then hangs them to wooden hangers & onto a pic frame for spraying. You can turn the hanger to get both sides sprayed. He then hangs the hanger to an extended extension ladder proper up on two 6' foot ladders to dry.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


Chuck here's a link to how we paint our cabinets www.painttalk.com/f2/kitchen-cabinet-painting-orlando-fl-34377/

.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

If y'all are spraying in the field I highly recommend the door rack painter. You can paint both sides at the same time and have 36 cabinet doors drying in a 3x8ft space. That's with two sets of racks. If you're doing regular doors you can stack 18 of them. 

Not to mention they take up almost no room when they aren't in use. Those racks that were posted are huge and must be a nightmare to store and lug around. 










Took that when I was half way through painting a set this week.


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## four2knapp (Jun 19, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> If y'all are spraying in the field I highly recommend the door rack painter. You can paint both sides at the same time.


 That type of drying rack does take up less space. However, doesn't it require 2 people to flip? I am by myself and use the hangers as RePaint FL posted.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

four2knapp said:


> That type of drying rack does take up less space. However, doesn't it require 2 people to flip? I am by myself and use the hangers as RePaint FL posted.


No, one person is all that's needed for cabinet doors. Regular doors could be done with one guy but it's easier with two. 
There's a separate spray rack, you spray the back, flip, then the sides and front. Then transfer to the dry rack which is the picture I showed.

Here's a little video demonstrating it.





Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> No, one person is all that's needed for cabinet doors. Regular doors could be done with one guy but it's easier with two.
> There's a separate spray rack, you spray the back, flip, then the sides and front. Then transfer to the dry rack which is the picture I showed.
> 
> Here's a little video demonstrating it.
> ...


Thanks. I'll admit that I'm curious about the part where he's flipping a freshly painted door and also moving them from the painting rack to the drying rack.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Gough said:


> Thanks. I'll admit that I'm curious about the part where he's flipping a freshly painted door and also moving them from the painting rack to the drying rack.


Flipping you hold the sides which you haven't painted yet. Transferring you have a hard plastic kind of handle thingy in each hand. The part that would make contact with the door is covered in what looks like 40/60 grit sand paper which makes the contact points almost invisible because it's so small. I've done at least 200 doors with the same handles and there's next to no paint on them.










Those racks sitting in my garage taking up a 2x2ft area will hold 36 cabinet doors or 18 full size ones. And they are no higher than my belly button. You can't beat it. :no:


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Flipping you hold the sides which you haven't painted yet. Transferring you have a hard plastic kind of handle thingy in each hand. The part that would make contact with the door is covered in what looks like 40/60 grit sand paper which makes the contact points almost invisible because it's so small. I've done at least 200 doors with the same handles and there's next to no paint on them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bought the same rack system this year because of some earlier review from you and am quite pleased with it. Same as Gough, I also wondered about flipping and carrying. As you say it is not an issue at all.

I'm pretty sure the coarse part of the carrying handles is skateboard grip tape!

Thanks again!


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

PRC said:


> I bought the same rack system this year because of some earlier review from you and am quite pleased with it. Same as Gough, I also wondered about flipping and carrying. As you say it is not an issue at all.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the coarse part of the carrying handles is skateboard grip tape!
> 
> Thanks again!


Oh wow you're right, that's exactly what it is! 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Oh wow you're right, that's exactly what it is!
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


This reminds me...still waiting for a close up of that rod with a measurement.

I guess you're busy this time of year.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

epretot said:


> This reminds me...still waiting for a close up of that rod with a measurement.
> 
> I guess you're busy this time of year.


I'm sorry, I completely forgot! Here it is with the measurements. I'd give you a close up of the moving handles but they are in my box on a job.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I'm sorry, I completely forgot! Here it is with the measurements. I'd give you a close up of the moving handles but they are in my box on a job.


No worries. I have very little time to build it.


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