# Spraying Hardiplank



## McGregor (Nov 5, 2013)

When I spray hardiplank, it leaves behind, I wouldn't call it a "flash", but spray marks where the spray overlapped. This happens even with 2 coats. This only happens to me with hardiplank, nothing else. What do you think is going on? What can be done?

Peace!


Also, a side question...I started leaving the paint in the spray rig for days. I used to clean it every afternoon, but after a few long nights starting leaving it in the machine, taking out the pressure first and unplugging it. 99% of the time I only use latex. Does anyone else do this and do you think that that is a bad idea for some reason?

Peace!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I see that a lot with hardi plank. Even with flats. I rarely use satin on siding, but I wonder if that would actually be better to create an even sheen?

I do the same thing with our pump if using it the next day. 

Peace!


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## DirtyPainter (Oct 18, 2013)

Damon T said:


> I see that a lot with hardi plank. Even with flats. I rarely use satin on siding, but I wonder if that would actually be better to create an even sheen? I do the same thing with our pump if using it the next day. Peace!


Ditto! 

Peaceouuuuuut!


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I have heard that about hardi but haven't sprayed any yet myself. I always clean the sprayer out every night regardless of how late I work. As long as you relieve the pressure you should be fine. I don't know if I would leave it for days maybe a night. 
What sheen?


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

I've only ever had that happened of its not pre-primed hardiplank. I almost always use low sheen on exteriors. 

Are you trying to do 1 pass on each board? I've found if I do 2 passes "wet on wet" I never have those problems. 

I normally put water in my sprayer every night, but have decided to just start leaving it in paint if the situation is right. Trying to eliminate as many 10 minute things as I can to aid in production.


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## DONZI (Dec 23, 2013)

I have the same problem with Hardi board as well. When they switched to the yellow primed boards is when the trouble started! I usually have to spray 4 coats on the sunny side of house and 2 coats every where else, moorgard never the less. The gray boards are a dream to paint!


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## sowardb (Aug 18, 2012)

I've found spraying it when surface temp is low and slow down when spraying it and put on heavy coat helps.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

This has happened to me before on exteriors where I've tried to work top down in sections. The edge of the top of one section is tacky when I begin on the next and it flashes real ugly. I bet if you used a walkboard and sprayed horizontally no more than a few boards at a time it wouldn't be an issue anymore.

I think Woodland has a video on here of him hauling ass to spray some siding for this very reason.


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

This is mainly what we paint on exteriors in pacific north west. I ve found no matter if your putting on satin or flat the way to go is running five to six feet of siding at a time. Start at the top, make a run all the way across, continue that all the way down, no patterns, this prevents your shadowing and lap marks.also gotta move quick and put it on evenly. If it is new hardie a light second coat will blend it in. I see this all over here in Oregon. Especially on the bigger sides you cant try to shoot it all at once if you want to see no shadowing.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Stay out of the direct sun and or add some retarder. Don't spray when its windy either.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

billy the kid said:


> This is mainly what we paint on exteriors in pacific north west. I ve found no matter if your putting on satin or flat the way to go is running five to six feet of siding at a time. Start at the top, make a run all the way across, continue that all the way down, no patterns, this prevents your shadowing and lap marks.also gotta move quick and put it on evenly. If it is new hardie a light second coat will blend it in. I see this all over here in Oregon. Especially on the bigger sides you cant try to shoot it all at once if you want to see no shadowing.


It certainly makes it easy to see who's working off of scaffold and who's working off of ladders


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## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

yeah I don't know what that means but I m a painter not a sider. I work off ladders everyday and I paint hardie plank year round with satin and you wont find a spray mark on any of the houses I do. I was taught by a member on here woodland who I worked for for years spraying hardie plank, I now run on my own, i take great pride in what i do and i would not feel like a job was complete with a bunch of spray marks all over the side of the house,it might take a little longer making runs back and forth across the side of a house on a LADDER but a solid paint job is what do.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

billy the kid said:


> yeah I don't know what that means but I m a painter not a sider. I work off ladders everyday and I paint hardie plank year round with satin and you wont find a spray mark on any of the houses I do. I was taught by a member on here woodland who I worked for for years spraying hardie plank, I now run on my own, i take great pride in what i do and i would not feel like a job was complete with a bunch of spray marks all over the side of the house,it might take a little longer making runs back and forth across the side of a house on a LADDER but a solid paint job is what do.


:thumbsup:

The guys around here who are working off of ladders are real sloppy about wet edges, etc., so you can look at their work and tell where every ladder set was.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

I must concur with what others have said, wet edges are very important. Here is one we did last spring. I had five ladders set up against the fascia and ran as fast as I could top first then bottom:






It helped that the temps were in the low 40s.
Two coats, sprayed only Ultra Spec Ext satin.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

^ Pretty.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> I must concur with what others have said, wet edges are very important. Here is one we did last spring. I had five ladders set up against the fascia and ran as fast as I could top first then bottom: It helped that the temps were in the low 40s.
> Two coats, sprayed only Ultra Spec Ext satin.


Nice work like the colors scheme as well..


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

McGregor said:


> When I spray hardiplank, it leaves behind, I wouldn't call it a "flash", but spray marks where the spray overlapped. This happens even with 2 coats. This only happens to me with hardiplank, nothing else. What do you think is going on? What can be done? Peace! Also, a side question...I started leaving the paint in the spray rig for days. I used to clean it every afternoon, but after a few long nights starting leaving it in the machine, taking out the pressure first and unplugging it. 99% of the time I only use latex. Does anyone else do this and do you think that that is a bad idea for some reason? Peace!


On big spray jobs I'll leave my pump in paint for months. It don't hurt it a little bit.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

How to paint houses.  glad we are figuring things out.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> I must concur with what others have said, wet edges are very important. Here is one we did last spring. I had five ladders set up against the fascia and ran as fast as I could top first then bottom: It helped that the temps were in the low 40s.
> Two coats, sprayed only Ultra Spec Ext satin.


How did you keep overspray off the neighbors house?


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> How did you keep overspray off the neighbors house?


There was hardly any wind the day we sprayed, and what little there was blew out toward the road. We had to completely drape the house on the other side with plastic. You can barely see it through the trees, but I actually had to stand on the roof of the neighbors house to reach one high spot, major PITA.




















Here is a view from the back that shows how close there are together.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Nice job Excel! 
I ended up rolling out one hardi job where it was too close to the next house. Draped both neighbor houses on another job. What a pain! It sucks being conscientious! 
I like that satin! I might have to try it for siding.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Nice job Excel!
> I ended up rolling out one hardi job where it was too close to the next house. Draped both neighbor houses on another job. What a pain! It sucks being conscientious!
> I like that satin! I might have to try it for siding.


It really makes that paint job pop:thumbsup:

Around here, we mainly use satin on exteriors, sometimes something with a little more gloss for the trim. Not only does it liven up the final product, but it sheds dirt better. The countryside here is hills of wind-blown silt, 100-150 feet thick, so that is a real concern.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Gough said:


> It really makes that paint job pop:thumbsup: Around here, we mainly use satin on exteriors, sometimes something with a little more gloss for the trim. Not only does it liven up the final product, but it sheds dirt better. The countryside here is hills of wind-blown silt, 100-150 feet thick, so that is a real concern.


My favorite, go to sheen for exterior siding has been low luster from my very beginning. US satin is a little shinier and might not be suitable for everybody's tastes. Home owners on jobs where I have used the satin really love it though, as it appears to be very durable. Only the true test of time will determine if that is actually the case. The only job we used it on where I wasn't happy was very rough sawn, furry cedar. The high sheen really caught the light on some of the rougher spots.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> My favorite, go to sheen for exterior siding has been low luster from my very beginning. US satin is a little shinier and might not be suitable for everybody's tastes. Home owners on jobs where I have used the satin really love it though, as it appears to be very durable. Only the true test of time will determine if that is actually the case. The only job we used it on where I wasn't happy was very rough sawn, furry cedar. The high sheen really caught the light on some of the rougher spots.


I wish there were some standardization with sheen names. With velvet, pearl, matte, flat, satin, low luster, and semi-gloss all out there and no industry standard, it can be a challenge when we change brands.

Oh, and eggshell, I forgot about eggshell. We used to use a lot of PPG 6-411.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Gough said:


> I wish there were some standardization with sheen names. With velvet, pearl, matte, flat, satin, low luster, and semi-gloss all out there and no industry standard, it can be a challenge when we change brands.
> 
> Oh, and eggshell, I forgot about eggshell. We used to use a lot of PPG 6-411.


6-411 yes Nd the 6-2 quick dry primer both great products. I do agree with the sheen levels why we like the using BM Moore inside SW egg is way to shiny even there low luster .


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Gough said:


> Oh, and eggshell, I forgot about eggshell.


Oooohh I love that color!


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## McGregor (Nov 5, 2013)

I only use Ben Moore, it is cheaper than SW and to me purdier


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I bet I have been asked to use that eggshell color at least 20 times.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> I bet I have been asked to use that eggshell color at least 20 times.


:thumbsup:

How about "eggshell stipple" for the trifecta? We've had some federal projects where that was the spec. Level 5 GWB, primed, and finished with an alkyd semi-gloss, applied with a "carpet" roller.


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