# Painting Asphalt Roof shingles?



## Ole34

customer wants me to paint his shingle roof....ive seen it before but have never done it myself

-can the roof still breath??
-any special coatings out there?
-durabilitiy?


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## Ole34

Plans on having a 2nd floor addition added at some point so just wants it all to match In the meantime


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## NCPaint1

Nope. Nothing that I know of. If there were something, my green roof would be some other color.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR

Hey man! Watch out that think over the table looks like a pressure cooker.


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## plainpainter

roof shingles don't breathe. There are specialty coatings out there, ask N8er he's knows about them. But considering how well I've seen accidental spills and overspray stick to shingles - I'd say use any quality 100% exterior paint. Heck use porch and floor paint, preferably California's, that will stick just fine.


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## Jmayspaint

I did it once, took an enormous amount of paint to make it look even close to a solid color. 

It was a long time ago, but I remember it as a disaster. Hope you have better luck


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## kdpaint

I would think eventual paint failure would be a nightmare- it would look terrible, and be hard to prep and re-coat..... I would need input from the manufacturer of the roofing material before I committed to putting any coating on it. Putting down new shingle may be a better and more realistic fix.

But part of me would love to power out that roof with a a sprayer, and/or a thick napped roller...


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## Ole34

kdpaint said:


> I would think eventual paint failure would be a nightmare- it would look terrible, and be hard to prep and re-coat..... I would need input from the manufacturer of the roofing material before I committed to putting any coating on it.* Putting down new shingle may be a better and more realistic fix.*
> 
> But part of me would love to power out that roof with a a sprayer, and/or a thick napped roller...


 
his roofer is the one who recomended it be painted........


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## LA Painter

I painted about 20 asphalt shingle roofs back in the 80’s. Mostly for color change, but on the older roofs where the granules were eroding, the paint definitely extended the life of the roof. I sprayed them with two coats of regular flat house paint. 

Since I work in a small area, I got to see them as the years went by. All they did was fade over time - like anything else. The HO’s loved it. Asphalt is very absorbent, so there’s no worry of adhesion.

Go for it!


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## AztecPainting

There's a product, I know it cause one of my best friends (Roofing company owner) started using this product and showcased on his last BNI presentation; it is a clear coat like, I'll ask my friend for the product specs.


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## Painter-Aaron

My step dad has been roofing for 30 years. He says to be careful with painting over shingles as the paint will slowly eat away at them.


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## workin'man

27 years ago I was working for a contractor restoring victorians.
We had a project and we painted a green roof red. We used normal house paint and thinned it out fogged on two coats. Over the past twenty five years the roof faded back to green. They have not changed the roof yet. I am assuming the paint washed off, probably because it was BM paint. Maybe SW will give you a lifetime warranty if you use Duaration. 
My advice..... paint the roof before you re paint the house, and don't forget to check your overspray clauses for cars on your insurance. You want coverage per occurance not per car!


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## Stonehampaintdept

Absolute coatings (I think) makes a clear shingle sealer as well as attic silver coatings. But for color I think Allflor would work good for you as far as adhesion. If you were concerned about the roof becoming more slick (it may or may not) with a paint. They make a skid grip with an anti-skid built in. It's not a normal silica sand, think it's a rubber based grit. Both 100% acrylic. You can see alot of Mc'Donalds around here that have blue roofs. Looks like asphalt shingles at least.


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## NACE

Painted several roofs with MoorGard. Easiest thing to do. Don't use oil. Did canvas awnings with it too. Painting asphalt is not complicated and requires no special coatings. Any quality acrylic paint will work. Duration has a low spread rate. It may require more material for the higher build coatings.


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## straight_lines

Learn something new every day.


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## Tonyg

So, by the time it is cleaned, which I would think is necessary for adhesion or any longevity, and after the material cost of a premium paint, not to mention the labor, how could that be cheaper than putting new shingles on?


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## straight_lines

Have you priced a new asphalt roof lately?


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## Tonyg

straight_lines said:


> Have you priced a new asphalt roof lately?


Well, the roof cleaning would be anywhere from 350-550, probably 125-150 sf per gal coverage at best on something like Duration, and a days labor for a 2 man crew, so I would guess painting in the 1500-2500 range. Putting some cheap shingles on half a roof shouldn't be that bad.


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## Stonehampaintdept

Just reshingled my roof last fall. About 3 squares in area including 25yr shingles (not architectural) ice&water shield, tar paper, ridge vent. Materials alone cost about 2k.


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## Paradigmzz

Stonehampaintdept said:


> Just reshingled my roof last fall. About 3 squares in area including 25yr shingles (not architectural) ice&water shield, tar paper, ridge vent. Materials alone cost about 2k.


You paid a ton. 300 sq ft for 2k? You should have hired a roofer.


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## Oden

Paradigmzz said:


> You paid a ton. 300 sq ft for 2k? You should have hired a roofer.


I thought the same thing. He's got to have the square count mixed up. Or he lives in a shed.


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## straight_lines

It must have been a typo, probably meant 3000 square. At around $25 a square thats $2500 just for the shingles. Add in paper and nails and is closer to $3000 in mats.

Prices went up big time on them last year. Lumber is doing that now, plywood is much more expensive than this time last year.


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## Ultimate

What do roofing manufacturers say about applying sealer to shingles. I know they recommend roof cleaning done by certain methods. I'd like to know if they recommend sealing one and if so with what and what results are to be expected. I'd consider selling it. Maybe.


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## daArch

I've never had a problem with the longevity of paint on a asphalt shingles . . . when I've spilled on them :thumbup:


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## plainpainter

straight_lines said:


> It must have been a typo, probably meant 3000 square. At around $25 a square thats $2500 just for the shingles. Add in paper and nails and is closer to $3000 in mats.
> 
> Prices went up big time on them last year. Lumber is doing that now, plywood is much more expensive than this time last year.


It use to cost $50/square for roofing shingles. Now the minimum price is $100/square for shingles alone. More like in the $120 range. Have to remember all that bitumen, all that tar etc that goes into making shingles, felt paper, ice&water membrane - that's all tied to the price of crude, which ain't cheap these days!


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## paintball head

I have painted quite a few roofs (commercial) in the last 8 years or so. The first few I used an acrylic DTM and then to save on material costs I started using SW A-100. Its very tough to make it look good with one coat but 2 coats with an 1 1/4 nap sleeve and you're good. No peeling on any of them, they will get some fading with brighter colors.


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## Ole34

wells it all done 1 coat 1 1/4 nap .........cleaned it up then 9 gallons SW exterior flat (cheap stuff, forget the line)...........took about about 4 hours to roll an wasnt bad at all just sucked standing on an angle like that


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## Jmayspaint

Looks a lot better. Glad it worked out for ya. What kind of footage did you get overall?


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## Ole34

joshmays1976 said:


> Looks a lot better. Glad it worked out for ya. What kind of footage did you get overall?


 
i dont know ..........never measured it out but i think its about 35'x15' or so


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## Jmayspaint

About 60ft per gallon then, wow. That's what I remembered as being bad about the one I did a long time ago, we had it in contract and didn't figure near enough material.


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## Ole34

joshmays1976 said:


> About 60ft per gallon then, wow. That's what I remembered as being bad about the one I did a long time ago, we had it in contract and didn't figure near enough material.


 

i bid it labor+materials an gave him a round about number........started off with a 5 than after lunch got another


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## modernfinish

I was studying for state test and this question popped up..


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## Epoxy Pro

I was checking into this (Yeah I know an old dug up thread) We came across this product made specifically for Asphalt shingles. GacoRoof. 

Has any one used this product?

http://www.gacoretail.com/gacoroof.html


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## daArch

cdpainting said:


> I was checking into this (Yeah I know an old dug up thread) We came across this product made specifically for Asphalt shingles. GacoRoof.
> 
> Has any one used this product?
> 
> http://www.gacoretail.com/gacoroof.html


NO DAVE, you did NOT dig up an old thread, you RESEARCHED the archives and had a CURRENT question that was relative to the past.


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## Epoxy Pro

daArch said:


> NO DAVE, you did NOT dig up an old thread, you RESEARCHED the archives and had a CURRENT question that was relative to the past.


Bill I actually cheated. I did a google search and this thread popped up lol.

I saw this product in a paint store we go to and even grabbed a color chart. Currently they offer 9 colors. I think it's a cool idea to offer.


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## Slopmeyer

There are alot of shingle paints out there. Nu-tech is one of them. Never did it but there is a you-tube video about it. I wouldn't be surprised if SW had a shingle paint.
As stated earlier in this thread a proper roof cleaning is essential, and not with a PW!

I think even if you paint it its gonna look different from the existing new white roof so you would have to paint the whole roof for consistency.


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## Epoxy Pro

Slopmeyer said:


> There are alot of shingle paints out there. Nu-tech is one of them. Never did it but there is a you-tube video about it. I wouldn't be surprised if SW had a shingle paint.
> As stated earlier in this thread a proper roof cleaning is essential, and not with a PW!
> 
> I think even if you paint it its gonna look different from the existing new white roof so you would have to paint the whole roof for consistency.


If we do any I will tell them to do the whole thing not just part of it. The stuff I mentioned is kind of expensive and only covers up to 100 sqft. That seems to be average from reading online about the different products out there. I saw this in a paint store and figured I would ask on here if any one tried it. I will check out the Nu-Tech.

We don't use SW products. If the local BM store doesn't have it I will find it some where else besides SW.


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## Will22

Inexpensive exterior paint on asphalt shingles, dirt, and moisture ingress (let alone freeze/thaw, if applicable)= cheap, but not a long lasting solution.


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## Slopmeyer

Will22 said:


> Inexpensive exterior paint on asphalt shingles, dirt, and moisture ingress (let alone freeze/thaw, if applicable)= cheap, but not a long lasting solution.


Agreed. I think if I was gonna paint a roof its the perfect time to try out the real roof coatings. Ya never know it could be a money maker in the future.

I was thinking about the hole roof painting issue and the fact algae wants to eat whats in the shingles. If it was painted properly the algae wouldn't be able to get to the actual shingle eliminating future roof algae, in theory anyhow.


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## Brianjson

*Roof painting*

In the 80s? Did you use an oil paint. (seems like that would be better with asphalt)


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## MIZZOU

Painted an old shed for mamma that someone had sided with shingles. One coat of 123 and one coat satin superpaint (because I had excess of both) and it still looks good 4 years later lol.


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## Ole34

Roof I did still looks good also.....I wish there was some kind of technical stuff we can look at as far as how long it will actually last an what effects it has but so far so good


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## Wee Willy

First, allow me to present some of my credentials. I am primarily a semi-retired 76-year old industrial sandblaster/painter. I am a Certified Natural Gas Transmission System Applicator and am a certified Applicator with the U. S. Corps of Engineers as well as others. I have done everything from bumper hitches to complete oilfield drilling rigs (the BIG ones) including being certified to remove (by both internal and external sand blasting) and dispose of NORM (Naturally Occurring Radioactive Material) from drill pipe on the big rigs. In the 1980s I was one chosen by the Cool Roof Initiative to work with 3M Corporation’s engineering and research staff in the incorporation of and testing of Ceramic and Borosilicate microspheres into roof coatings. (Yes, the work quite well.) Later I did research into VHT (Very High Temperature) insulative industrial coatings using the same materials in coatings certified up to 1,555°F.

As an outgrowth of the above, I have coated many roofs and then followed the weathering, insulative quality and the maintenance of these roofs over several years. Based upon this, in my estimation asphalt shingle roofs (or any other for than matter) present no particular problem to coat and maintain. Neither are wood, stucco or brick sidings. I finally settled on using an exterior acrylic latex coating in all these applications and have used both air and air-assisted airless systems, simple sprayer (like a wash-down sprayer) and rollers to apply them. To pre-clean the roof I use Tri-Sodium Phosphate solutions with a fresh water rinse. If there is a mold problem I use a diluted Clorox wash and fresh-water rinse. Prior to application I use a paint conditioner to assist in flow-out whether using microsphere-filled coatings or straight coatings. If there is a fungal or algae problem in the area of the job, I add zinc oxide to the paint. If I want to add additional reflectance I add Rutile Titanium Dioxide to the coating prior to application. If the goal is a reflective roof, the primary top coat needs to be re-top coated every 5-8 years to maintain the primary level of the original system. One additional benefit in my area, East-Central Louisiana, is that this coating package will “wick” under the asphalt shingles and glue them down into a solid sheet that in the past has withstood 120 mile-per-hour hurricane winds as long as the substrate holds. It also greatly reduces the fire hazard of a normal asphalt shingle roof.


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## Damon T

cdpainting said:


> I was checking into this (Yeah I know an old dug up thread) We came across this product made specifically for Asphalt shingles. GacoRoof.
> 
> Has any one used this product?
> 
> http://www.gacoretail.com/gacoroof.html



My buddy is doing his RV roof with this product this weekend. Looks like good stuff


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## Wee Willy

Might I make a couple of suggestions: First, the GacoRoof Coating is a very good choice for motor homes and mobile homes (trailers of all sizes) as is almost any elastomeric roof coating because their roofs are relatively flat and they flex in the case of motor homes while in transit and on mobile homes due to wind, etc... If you will go to*www.[B]oxco*_.com/_[/B]_ you will find unwoven fabrics as "splits" of whatever width you desire. Use 6-inch wide material to seal all seams by first laying down a heavy 8-10 inch wide stripe of coating, imbedding the unwoven fabric in it and then coating over it. Do this BEFORE you coat the roof ... also seal around all roof penetrations such as vent jacks, etc, with the same method. Then coat the whole roof covering the reinforced areas with another coat. The unwoven fabric will allow the necessary "flexing" as the vehicle or mobile home is in transit or under weather streses. This will save you a world of problems and possible leak damage to the interiors._


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## jprefect

straight_lines said:


> Learn something new every day.


Epoxy will stick to just about everything, but does terrible in the UV (chalks over like stain). So, maybe an epoxy primer and a urethane (like porch and floor) top coat. 

Never done it though, so consider it an experiment.

EDIT:
You know what, Wee Willy's response is top notch. This is the guy to listen to.


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## Wee Willy

Epoxy on a shingle roof is not a very good idea. I have sprayed everything from Coal Tar Epoxy on roofs, barges and drilling rigs to every type epoxy you can imagine on just about every metal known and it is wonderful in its place. I did try it on roofs in a ponding water scenario and it was not a good idea. For one thing, the thinner-of-choice and the favored clean-up material back then for commercial applications is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) which is a very dangerous fire hazard, a medical/health hazard and will melt just about every hydrocarbon known to man including asphalt. Just about everything you cal clean up epoxies with is just one step down the ladder from MEK. Another problem is pot life; epoxies are reaction cure coatings. The warmer the temperature the faster it sets up/cures plugging lines and guns. Water-based coatings, on the other hand, have none of these problems; you clean up with plain water. The problem with this class of coating is that in a ponding situation it softens and then is penetrated. (See previous post and read the specs for GacoRoof and other roof-specific coatings.) The other problem with epoxies on roofs is cracking under the stresses mentioned for mobile homes, motor homes and small camper trailers. The absence of elasticity after curing, and increasing with age and exposure to UV makes it prone to develop spider-web cracks and later through penetration leading to leaks. Almost any elastomeric coating will out perform epoxy by many magnitudes of measurement. I do npot endorse any above others since each has its positive traits, but Cool Roof Elastomeric Roof Coating is a generally good choice here in the Sunny South (East-Central Louisiana for me) and elsewhere. I have used it across the South, in the British and American Virgin Islands, the desert Southwest and even shipped some to Dubai in the mid-East some years ago. You can tint it if you like but it will probably void your warranty. There are many choices of colors in the newer iterations if a client so desires. The Heat Island Effect website (http://www.epa.gov/heatisland/) and others sites related to this study will lead you to the appropriate choices for your particular application. If one does opt for an epoxy roof coating, I would recommend that they look into a fiberglass chopper gun that will allow you to feed fiberglass roving into the coating stream as you “paint” the roof and then roll it out into what is in effect a fiberglass roof exactly like the hull of a fiberglass boat hull. It certainly stops the water problem but as stated previously is crack-prone and outrageously expensive. Apologies to all for the length of my posts.


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## I paint paint

No apology necessary at all. Keep posting. That kind of info is what we are here for!


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## Red dog

I sprayed a State Farm insurance building roof back in the mid '90's. Went from black to red. I used a flat acrylic exterior. The roof was free from mildew so I just blew it off and sprayed it. It has faded a lot but it's still there and it's still red.....lol


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## Wee Willy

Here in the Deep South mildew is a major cosmetic problem that becomes an economic problem as well. The trees “weep” sap as they leaf out there is a breaking of the surface areas budding areas and emitting sap, This coats the roof with a fine covering of what amounts to sugar water that immediately is infested with mold spores that turn black as the mature leaving unsightly black streaking. Therefore, the most popular color is very dark grey or black. Then the weather turn warm and the roofs heat up often reaching 186-200+ °F. This creates an attic temperature literally hot enough to cook meat. The response is to greatly increase attic insulation that only slows the thermal migration into the living space tremendously increasing the air conditioning costs. In some cases a home with minimal insulation and of 3,000 square feet will receive an electric bill for $500 or more with 80% being for climate control of the interior. A highly reflective roof of white exterior latex enamel with drop this by 40-45% while the same roof coated with the same coating plus the APPROPRIATE dry solids volume of borosilicate microspheres will drop the monthly costs, all else being equal, by 60-65% as proven by extended testing. However, the mildew staining problem returns decreasing the beneficial properties of the reflective and/or insulative roof. The simple expedient of asking the paint vender to “dose” the paint with an appropriate charge of Zinc Oxide instead of an equal volume of tinting additives negates this problem. The alternative is to add mildewcides that will slowly leach out of the coating and contaminate the surrounding area, i.e., the area where your children will play each day for years. The additional Zinc Oxide solves both of these problems. On one of the other homes we own, now used as my office, I coated part of one exterior walls that is heavily shades by pecan trees, the major contributor to this problem, with the exact same paint but part with and part without the additional Zinc Oxide mentioned above. After over seven (7) years the area coated with the altered paint is clear of mildew and staining and the rest is noticeably stained by and covered with mildew. Of course, where this is not a problem the above does not unerringly apply.


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## I paint paint

That's a great post Wee Willy. If I am reading it correctly, you're saying if someone wants to greatly increase the mildew resistance of an exterior latex paint, whether applied to roof or siding, the solution is to simply ask a paint retailer to "dose the paint with an appropriate charge of zinc oxide?"

So this is common for paint contractors to do near you? And the kids at the paint counter do this often enough no special order is required?

I wonder if any paint vendors outside of the deep south are doing this?


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## Wee Willy

Once again probably overly long and detailed but: Thanks for the complement, I Paint Paint. I came up with this method while working with a company that furnishes paint components, including pigments, to the paint industry. We were discussing the mildew problem and what mildewcides were available. He told me what others are using and directed me to the MSDS (Material safety Data Sheet) for these additives and then we discussed alternatives. He, and not I, was the inspiration for this technique.

At the same time I was testing the addition of Rutile Titanium Dioxide to the paints to increase the reflectance and he suggested that I replace part of the Rutile with Zinc Oxide for the mildew problem. I tried it, the results were definitely positive and from then on it was part of my testing paradigm and remains so. Needless to say that I met with resistance from the paint retailers at first with opinions that any deviation from the standard formulation would void any product liability. This was from Sherwin Williams and others. However, after over 25 years with Tnemec (www.TNEMEC.com), they never hesitated when tagged for industrial coatings. To be honest, for the Latex-based paints, I have used Wal-Mart for years … sometimes specifying 55-gallon drums. Many times I furnished the Rutile and Zinc Oxide in appropriate pigment grades and in this case usually blended the final formulation myself. As far as I know I was and remain the only one who ever tested this in this area but one supplier of insulative roof coatings still uses it in some of their products. When still active in the industry, I often blended and sold the finished coating to others. The material had the Rutile, Zinc Oxide and microspheres in a blend-and-spray (or roller) state. 

In the instance of borosilicate microsphere loaded insulative coatings, I buy the paint in bulk, order a supply of microspheres directly from 3M and blend the final formulation myself. I do this because of the requirements of carefully proportioning the microspheres and carrier/paint in order to maintain the correct microspheres-to-dry film volume in order to maximize the insulative values and not degrade the integrity of the multi-layered coating package.

Again, I am no longer in the commercial sandblasting and painting business but kept one sandblast rig that I built many years ago (complete with a fully “air conditioned” suit and helmet) and from time to time either furnish blended coatings with or without microspheres to others on a limited basis. My two first choices are either flat latex enamel for roofs and sidings and sometimes _Kool Seal_ White Elastomeric Roof Coating if that is the best choice for the particular project. I endorse neither over other products; they are my personal choices. If I “dose” the commercial product I personally guarantee it.


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## kdpaint

I like this guy. I've learned more in 3 posts from him than in 1000 from many other members...no disrespect intended....


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## Wee Willy

Thank you, kdpaint. But remember that all this was learned over a period of several decades filled with many, many failures, false starts, wrong conclusions and sometimes down right stupidity or hardening of the cranial housing. But one thing that I learned early on was that if knowledge is not shared and passed on during one's lifetime it will all evaporate upon their demise. So if you know something that will make it easier for the younger set, pass it on. So in closing I pose this eternal philosophical question:
Question: "Why are we here; what is our purpose in Life?"
Answer: "To raise and train our replacements."


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## DrakeB

plainpainter said:


> It use to cost $50/square for roofing shingles. Now the minimum price is $100/square for shingles alone. More like in the $120 range. Have to remember all that bitumen, all that tar etc that goes into making shingles, felt paper, ice&water membrane - that's all tied to the price of crude, which ain't cheap these days!


Reading through this thread, and not sure if anyone replied to this, but you can get perfectly decent shingles (Tamko Heritage, for instance) for around $ 85/square without too much trouble. It'd probably be cheaper in some places; possibly a bit more. But I do around that price and I'm just a small town, independent lumber yard with very little buying power.

Not that IWB and starter and vents and felt and... isn't expensive.

Edit: Dammit... old post. I lose.


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## DrakeB

Wee Willy said:


> Question: "Why are we here; what is our purpose in Life?"
> Answer: "To raise and train our replacements."


That's kind of a bleak answer to the question. If you extrapolate from your answer, it basically comes down the "the furthering of our species," which is just another way of saying "following the biological imperative," which, in turn, essentially means our life has no more meaning than that of an ant. And while that's arguably true, it brings me back to my original point- a bit bleak.


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## SemiproJohn

Woodford said:


> That's kind of a bleak answer to the question. If you extrapolate from your answer, it basically comes down the "the furthering of our species," which is just another way of saying "following the biological imperative," which, in turn, essentially means our life has no more meaning than that of an ant. And while that's arguably true, it brings me back to my original point- a bit bleak.


Well, it could be bleaker...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PQ6335puOc


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## Wee Willy

*Woodford; please take this as just a statement of an old man’s personal opinion: No, instead of bleakness and gloom mine is a very bright and exciting outlook. As both a Christian (but absolutely NOT prejudiced against any religion, or lack thereof, that does not threaten others, and especially me and mine) and a member of the Western Cherokee Nation, I believe that our existence is part of a journey and that each one of us does our part. But if only one of my ancestors had learned to knap flint spear points and had taught none of his family or friends to do so then we would still be chasing big hairy elephantine creatures all over the landscape with sharp sticks. Instead, each generation passes their beliefs, morals, prejudices or passions on to the next generation; they build on it and then repeat the process. Thus does mankind progress. But if ONE generation fails in this then all that their forefathers have achieved on a social scale is lost forever. As an example, part of my family did not teach their children the history of our people and the unique elements of that history and their part is therefore lost to all. If this is extrapolated to the community scale, then part of the community’s heritage is lost. This can be projected forward to the national and then global scale. This is called the Ozymandian Paradox that says that no matter what advances anyone, be they monarch or peasant, achieves, it and they are doomed to inevitable decay and loss to later humanity. My personal idea is that the way to circumvent this is to teach your children your cumulative values before you die, which is inevitable. As for myself, my journey has been anything but bleak. Instead, it has been 76 years of absolute enjoyment as we, my wife, friends, family and a few enemies have had, as I always term it, “One HELL of a ride!” And when my time comes I will be able to look back over my whole life and say in truth that there is no one I need to go back and tell that I love them, no one who I have maliciously wronged, no one that I have hurt without just cause, and nothing that I really wanted to do and never tried … often more than once. That does not appear to be bleak at all, at least to me. And part of that is that I have consciously taught what I know to our younger companions on our journey.*

*Sorry for the sermon, which I will abandon at this point without passing the collection plate, but this is what you get when you cross a philosopher and an engineer. {:>)*


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## Wee Willy

Semipro John: How did you know that this is one of my many favorite actors in character and he never takes himself overly seriously! And he appears to always be enjoying life in the deal.


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## I paint paint

kdpaint said:


> I like this guy. I've learned more in 3 posts from him than in 1000 from many other members...no disrespect intended....


Well you better come up with an intelligent paint chemistry question or two. Thread is devolving into death talk and youtube clips...


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## Wee Willy

Apologies to all.


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## kdpaint

No apologies necessary. I appreciate your experience and your words about how you have lived your life. It's a good thread. I look forward to more like it.


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## SemiproJohn

Wee Willy said:


> Semipro John: How did you know that this is one of my many favorite actors in character and he never takes himself overly seriously! And he appears to always be enjoying life in the deal.


I didn't have a clue. Conan's line is one of my favorites and I steal it when the urge arises, although I really don't agree with it. Hearing it always gives me a good chuckle.


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## DrakeB

Wee Willy;805210Ozymandian Paradox that says that no matter what advances anyone said:


> Is this from that famous snippet?
> 
> _I am Ozymandias, king of kings, look on my works ye mighty and despair_
> 
> Am I remembering that right?


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## Wee Willy

You are correct. It is from the poem“Ozymandias” by Percy Bysshe Shelley. See, you were paying attention in your Poetry classes. Your teacher would be proud of you. But back on subject; there is a LOT of information out there that is of use to the coatings application community but it must be passed on from one to another. Painting is both a technology and an art and mastery of both is money in the applicator's pocket as well as the improvement of the environment. This is by far the best venue I have found for that. And while I was not intending to deliver a lecture on Life, Eternity and the price of peas in China, the technical aspects of our work are important to our community. If you can deliver a superior product, whether coating or application technique, you will excel in your business. You win more money and your client wins with a superior coating at a lower price. If it saves them money then they win doubly and will not only be back but will tell someone else what a great job you did and these will come to your door as well. But to reach this level you must also know more about the available products than even the manufacturers. Do not rely just on the literature of the venders but seriously consider their counsel. Read their technical data and not just their talking points. Know their products better than they do. You are in a position to choose between several products while they must concentrate on selling their exclusive line. This all brought me to the point of using Exterior Acrylic Latex paints because it had proven itself to be a superior product for asphalt roof coatings IN MY AREA. This was in spite of the "experts" telling me that it was not developed for this use and chanting predictions of all sorts of doomsday scenarios. I tried it, I was right and we both made a ton of money from the projects in spite of their reluctance. Listen to each other and share your knowledge. Everyone wins.


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## okiedokie

I know this is an old thread, but, I'm considering painting the blue/grey asphalt shingles on my ranch style house. Pretty simple roof line, pitch. I'm having a hard time finding any before/after pics of painted asphalt shingle roofs, though. I'm afraid it could look very monotone-ish after painting. Can anyone tell me? Or, is there still an appearance of variation/shade differences? I don't want it to look like a plastic coating has been poured on . 

Thanks
Ken


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