# armorseal 1k waterbased urethane floor enamel



## Z paint (Jan 16, 2008)

painting a bar floor and am going to try to use thus stuff the first time..painting over tiles,im not sure exactly what the tiles are made of(looks like it could b some kind of stone,the tiles are different colors of a variationsoft reds) but its in good shape and looks like it was sealed with a satin sealer..think i can get away with no etching? do i need to use armorseal primer? or can i just use the coating and thin the first coat..its a huge floor in a really nice bar but im looking to get it done quick but right...do u guys like this product


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Are you kidding!!!!!!!! Never cheat on a floor,you will regret it!!


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Are you kidding!!!!!!!! Never cheat on a floor,you will regret it!!


aaron, I don't think his intention is to "cheat" on the floor. If you have advice that could help him out, that might be more beneficial in this case. :thumbsup:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> aaron, I don't think his intention is to "cheat" on the floor. If you have advice that could help him out, that might be more beneficial in this case. :thumbsup:


Jason, I disagree....Thinking about not properly preparing a floor is cheating. Not in a since that you are cheating the customer.Unless you sell them 1 system & do another.Which is another thing I don't recommend.But you would be setting yourself up for a potential nightmare.


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## SWGuy (Jun 26, 2009)

Bad idea...


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I agree with Aaron, while it may seem like a time saver now when/if the floor fails you will put a lot more energy into the fix of the problem then you did for the original job. Best just to take all the proper steps and maybe even a couple extra if you are in doubt.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Jason, I disagree....Thinking about not properly preparing a floor is cheating. Not in a since that you are cheating the customer.Unless you sell them 1 system & do another.Which is another thing I don't recommend.But you would be setting yourself up for a potential nightmare.


I assumed he wasn't trying to 'cheat" and looking for suggestions, and you assumed the contrary. I don't disagree about your thoughts for the process. Apparently were both reading differently into the OP. 

I think I was thinking you could bring something to the table that would help him instead of calling him a cheater in a round-about-way... :whistling2:

Anyways... my bad..


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## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

Do absolutely everything in your power to ensure full adhesion, bar floors get a lot of wear...

:thumbsup:


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## mblosik (Jan 3, 2009)

please...please...please for your sake and your customer: talk to wolverine on this forum or at the bare minimum an sw rep. 
i have a job like this coming up and the process goes like this:
sand entire floor with 100 grit (if you etch instead; your adding moisture; this is never good.)
then wolverine coatings bonding primer
then wolverine's liquatile or whatever wolverine recommends (they do have a highwear additive)
then clear coat from wolverine (once again i believe they have a high wear additive or coating) i always talk to fred oey from http://www.alphagarage.com/ before i tackle projects like this. ALWAYS! 
armorseal 1000hs is good stuff, but i don't think it's going to be as right for this situation.


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