# New Wainscoting & fireplace



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Wondering how others would approach this. He wants a spray finish. Was thinking brush and roll 1 coat of BIN. Sand, dust. Then Caulk,fill,sand,dust. Spray 1 coat of Stix then 2 coats Advance.. I only have an airless setup at the moment. I also dont feel comfortable spraying BIN in a clients house..Thoughts?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Is that all poplar and mdf? If so no need to bin it. Just spray your wb primer sand it down good and go to your topcoat. (Woodfilling and caulking where needed).


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I'd use an oil base prime on what appears to be fiber board. I'd be afraid BIN might warp or lift the finish on the fiber board parts. If it's not wood, use an oil.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Is that all poplar and mdf? If so no need to bin it. Just spray your wb primer sand it down good and go to your topcoat. (Woodfilling and caulking where needed).
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Spray MDF with WB primer! I would not chance it! In any case, it looks more like fiber board than MDF. If it's not wood, plywood or particle board I'd use oil primer.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I think your plan is good. Bin goes down nice and smooth plus sanding will take out any texture from manually applying. I wouldn't want to spray bin or an oil primer in an occupied house if I didn't absolutely have to. The only things I'd do differently is I'd spot prime areas that sanded though and filler spots with Bin, skip the Stix, and spray with either Cali Ultraplate or Breakthrough. 

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I believe it's all raw MDF with clean pine trim. Fireplace is plywood, but will be tiled..Sometimes that finger jointed pine will bleed is my concern.. Guess I could always caulk/fill before primer if I only wanted to do 1 coat of primer. @Jennifer Temple you think BIN would react with the MDF?
Was thinking 2 coats of primer would get a better finish on raw wood, but that would obviously raise my quoting price..


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

In all honesty, oil primer would probably be easier to manually apply than BIN. 
Just alot stinkier. .I also believe manually applying (primer only)would be alot more thorough with all the detail..



jennifertemple said:


> Spray MDF with WB primer! I would not chance it! In any case, it looks more like fiber board than MDF. If it's not wood, plywood or particle board I'd use oil primer.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

BIN for the win, but spray it!! You already need to mask the area for spray, so just spray the BIN too?? BIN dries way to fast to do any brush and roll well. Why spend the time sanding out brush and roll marks when you could spray then quick sand and dust. Your time will be with the advance and getting that right. I would use 311FFLP for the BIN and 309FFLP for Advance, super light coats. Also skip the STIX should not need after BIN.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> In all honesty, oil primer would probably be easier to manually apply than BIN.
> Just alot stinkier. .I also believe manually applying (primer only)would be alot more thorough with all the detail..


You could use Low Odor.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

I'm a big fan of Bin, even when stain killing isn't required, but never liked using it in occupied homes on large areas. I'd fill and caulk, brush and roll 2 coats BM Alkyd Enamel Underbody (sand between coats), and spray 2 coats of finish of your choice. Still some odor, but not as objectionable as Bin.

I wouldn't worry about any bleed through on this particular job using BM UB.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

That's a good example of a job that if the painter and carpenter worked together, could have really reduced the amount of time in finishing. If all the material were pre-primed by the painter before installation the priming aspect would have been reduced to merely spot priming where butt joints and miter joints were sanded by the carpenters. 

But that's in a perfect world!!!:biggrin:


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

In my experience, pre-priming trim takes a lot longer vs spraying after it’s installed. To pre-prime I’d typically need to set up a temporary spray booth on-site, gather all the wood to stage by the spray booth and then rack each piece after spraying it. 

There are plenty of WB primers that would work well for this type of project. Lenmar makes an excellent WB primer. The SW Sher-Wood Gen II Universal primer is another good option. 

I’ll spray a light tack coat then let it dry for 10-15 before applying a flood coat. This helps to minimize the grain raise you’ll have with some WB products.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Lenmar 1WB.200 + Cabinet coat, advance, or other pigmented waterborne lacquer/urethane.


btw I hear new trim paint coming from BM soon to compete with a certain other brand. Tints on gennex too . And a certain other product will get an upgrade


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Lenmar 1WB.200 + Cabinet coat, advance, or other pigmented waterborne lacquer/urethane.
> 
> 
> btw I hear new trim paint coming from BM soon to compete with a certain other brand. Tints on gennex too . And a certain other product will get an upgrade


I've been hearing this for some time now. I'm really hoping it's rated for cabinets too. 

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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

MikeCalifornia said:


> BIN for the win, but spray it!! You already need to mask the area for spray, so just spray the BIN too?? BIN dries way to fast to do any brush and roll well. Why spend the time sanding out brush and roll marks when you could spray then quick sand and dust. Your time will be with the advance and getting that right. I would use 311FFLP for the BIN and 309FFLP for Advance, super light coats. Also skip the STIX should not need after BIN.


I do like spraying BIN in my shop with the HVLP. Goes on super smooth and even. I don't think I would want to spray it through my airless though, especially in someones house. I also find the primer won't lay down very consistant on new wood especially when there are so many angles. Lots of misses, heavy spots etc..unless I went over it a couple times I guess.
However even worse is having to clean out my airless onsite with Amonia or methyl hydrate. Sounds like a nightmare.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Lenmar 1WB.200 + Cabinet coat, advance, or other pigmented waterborne lacquer/urethane.
> 
> 
> btw I hear new trim paint coming from BM soon to compete with a certain other brand. Tints on gennex too . And a certain other product will get an upgrade


 I always forget about Cabinet Coat. This would be a great time for this actually. I've never used the Lenmar 1WB.200. I see you hyping that alot. What's so special about it? Is it brush/roll/sand friendly. What about any minor tannin bleed?


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I think your plan is good. Bin goes down nice and smooth plus sanding will take out any texture from manually applying. I wouldn't want to spray bin or an oil primer in an occupied house if I didn't absolutely have to. The only things I'd do differently is I'd spot prime areas that sanded though and filler spots with Bin, skip the Stix, and spray with either Cali Ultraplate or Breakthrough.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk


Thanks,except I Can't get Caliplate or Breakthrough up here in ol Canada. Well not the high VOC version anyhow.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

PNW Painter said:


> In my experience, pre-priming trim takes a lot longer vs spraying after it’s installed. To pre-prime I’d typically need to set up a temporary spray booth on-site, gather all the wood to stage by the spray booth and then rack each piece after spraying it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I agree spraying in place is the fastest option, but not always a good or practical option when dealing with high odor products in occupied buildings.

I always liked pre-priming (spray) off site on such projects. Before a saw ever touches any of the material. Yeah, when you come back to finish coat, things may look beat up, but it's nothing that quick touch-up won't fix.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Thanks,except I Can't get Caliplate or Breakthrough up here in ol Canada. Well not the high VOC version anyhow.


Lenmar undercoater is spray only. I've never used it because I don't do much new stock but I think in this case I'd try it along with cabinet coat just to see what cocos always raving about. Either way, with what you have available to you, cabinet coat would be a good choice. I always forget about that product as well. 

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I've been hearing this for some time now. I'm really hoping it's rated for cabinets too.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk



Yes and other surface.. Will be under the corotech label.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

brush-friendly cabinet enamel, w/ adequate prep you should be able to get similar results.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I always forget about Cabinet Coat. This would be a great time for this actually. I've never used the Lenmar 1WB.200. I see you hyping that alot. What's so special about it? Is it brush/roll/sand friendly. What about any minor tannin bleed?



Don't even try to brush/roll it or your in for a bad time, wouldn't even try to spray and back brush. Treat it like a lacquer. Sprays out great hvlp or airless and high film build. Main reason to use it is fast dry to easy sand, and doesn't seem to raise the grain or swell mdf. It's not a bonding or stain blocking primer.


Still waiting for the perfect primer to come along but for the job your doing it would work nicely.


FYI I did have some bad batches of cabinetcoat 3B and 4B. batches starting with 41B are all too thick like jello. If you thin them about 12% then they spray fine. New batches starting with 41C are perfect. 1B and 2B bases were unaffected.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I milled, assembled, and installed all the framed raised panel wainscoting pictured in my own home out of MDF, brush priming it with 2 coats of Moore’s 024 with a splash of thinner added. All the applied trim was poplar. Any brush marks from the primer sanded out pretty nicely. It did require a couple of drying days before it was able to be sanded to a fine powder. I did my caulking and filling between prime coats. Although the 024 would have served as a good foundation for sprayed Advance, I opted to brush and/or roller apply (tipping off) 2 coats of Alkyd Satin Impervo. I don’t like using brush applied water based primers on pine because it sometimes experiences a slightly yellow resin bleed. I’m also not a fan of using it on MDF, especially if there’s exposed end cuts. I like the underbody that Lightingboy mentioned too, that requiring a little more drying time and effort to sand out brush marks.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Don't even try to brush/roll it or your in for a bad time, wouldn't even try to spray and back brush. Treat it like a lacquer. Sprays out great hvlp or airless and high film build. Main reason to use it is fast dry to easy sand, and doesn't seem to raise the grain or swell mdf. It's not a bonding or stain blocking primer.
> 
> 
> Still waiting for the perfect primer to come along but for the job your doing it would work nicely.
> ...


Ya, I think I had one of those batches. Was a dark blue, as thick as jello. That was the first and last time I used it. How does it compare to Advance as far as flowing out? One thing I love about spraying Advance (with an airless)is that it looks flawless. No spray lines or anything. 
Is that lenmar water based? If I'm going to only have one sprayer on site, I don't want to be mucking with to many chemicals.. Spraying the primer would be nice though..Stix wouldn't raise grain on MDF would it?Or Aqua lock. I mean it's mdf, not much grain anyhow..


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Ya, I think I had one of those batches. Was a dark blue, as thick as jello. That was the first and last time I used it. How does it compare to Advance as far as flowing out? One thing I love about spraying Advance (with an airless)is that it looks flawless. No spray lines or anything.
> Is that lenmar water based? If I'm going to only have one sprayer on site, I don't want to be mucking with to many chemicals.. Spraying the primer would be nice though..Stix wouldn't raise grain on MDF would it?Or Aqua lock. I mean it's mdf, not much grain anyhow..



1Wb.200 is waterborne and very mild solvent odor. Cabinetcoat IMO is easier to lay out than advance and doesn't have issues curing out in dark bases you can put it on 50mils and it will still cure reasonably fast. My biggest issues is that it tints on universal colorants and getting colors to match BM colors is tricky. In my experience with off whites need to hold off about 30% black for most off whites then they're pretty close.


I have also used flattening paste(powder) from targetcoatings to lower the sheen to match lower sheen lacquers. ~25g/ gallon brings it from satin to a lower pearl sheen.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Redux said:


> I milled, assembled, and installed all the framed raised panel wainscoting pictured in my own home out of MDF, brush priming it with 2 coats of Moore’s 024 with a splash of thinner added. All the applied trim was poplar. Any brush marks from the primer sanded out pretty nicely. It did require a couple of drying days before it was able to be sanded to a fine powder.
> 
> 
> I like the underbody that Lightingboy mentioned too, that requiring a little more drying time and effort to sand out brush marks.


I always thought the BM 217 AEUB dried and sanded and a bit better than 024 . But they are very similar products. I'm surprised I don't see 217 UB mentioned at all on PT. I was always a big fan. The product never did seem to have a big following, probably due to lack of marketing.

Some fine looking 'scot there, Alchemy.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Lightningboy65 said:


> I always thought the BM 217 AEUB dried and sanded and a bit better than 024 . But they are very similar products. I'm surprised I don't see 217 UB mentioned at all on PT. I was always a big fan. The product never did seem to have a big following, probably due to lack of marketing.
> 
> Some fine looking 'scot there, Alchemy.


The 217 was my go-to primer for bare wood going on a good 20+ years. I loved the stuff and it was easy to sand. I’ve only seen one other member aside from yourself mention its use here since joining the forum. I switched to the 024 after most of my clients switched to hardwoods such as maple for paint grade millwork packs. I had started power sanding all the trim packs prior to priming and the wood didn’t require a heavy build and/or hiding and fill capacity that the 217 provided. I found the underbody had more of a tendency to ball up and clog up the abrasives when fine orbit sanding. The 217 is definitely the way to go for a high build/easy sanding oil primer. It was always popular with my father and a few of the remaining older school painters.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Lightningboy65 said:


> That's a good example of a job that if the painter and carpenter worked together, could have really reduced the amount of time in finishing. If all the material were pre-primed by the painter before installation the priming aspect would have been reduced to merely spot priming where butt joints and miter joints were sanded by the carpenters.
> 
> But that's in a perfect world!!!:biggrin:




A carpenter actually sanding their uneven trim work? That’s a perfect world 


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

jr.sr. painting said:


> A carpenter actually sanding their uneven trim work? That’s a perfect world
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, there are still a few out there doing carpentry that matches the quality of our painting.:biggrin:


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Spray everything.

BIN or a poly-vinyl lacquer primer + CC or Scuff-X.

Scuff-X has a better vertical hang.

Use ZipWalls.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Thought I'd share... FWIW

I was given a decent set of cabinets over the summer, and plan to paint them this winter. 

Thought I'd give BIN primer (with a 3/8 microfiber min-roller) a try. 

So far, I'm impressed by how easy it is (and fast) to apply (and fast drying). 

A light sanding and ready for paint. I can do one side at a time and be done in an hour (with all of them)! Definitely going to be using this method in the future!

For some reason I never used BIN for cabinets, but it is much touted on PaintTalk, and I'm quickly realizing it's benefits!


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> Thought I'd share... FWIW
> 
> I was given a decent set of cabinets over the summer, and plan to paint them this winter.
> 
> ...


.


I tried some inslx seal lock (alcohol based synthetic resin) recently as a replacement for BIN. Doesn't flow off the brush and lay out, cure as fast for sanding/adhesion, and its sort of an off white where BIN is bright white. My assessment is I would only use this for drywall or smoke/odor remediation.

BIN is a really nice primer, some day waterborne will get there!


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> .
> 
> 
> I tried some inslx seal lock (alcohol based synthetic resin) recently as a replacement for BIN. Doesn't flow off the brush and lay out, cure as fast for sanding/adhesion, and its sort of an off white where BIN is bright white. My assessment is I would only use this for drywall or smoke/odor remediation.
> ...



I thought BIN would be messier with a roller. Wasn't a mess at all (screening off the excess from the nap of course, prior to rolling). 

Nobody that I know of (around here) uses BIN to prep cabinets. I even asked the local supplier outright if he would recommend it as a primer, and they still suggested other primers. 

I'm convinced it's better in this application, as long as the adhesion is good after drying.

---

*I'm going to try top coating with SW ProClassic (Alkyd Hybrid) with a 3/8 mini roller too. I want to see if I can achieve similar results to spraying with a mini roller.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

BIN is the closest thing to a perfect universal trim primer as you will find. And unlike many universal primers, it is not a compromise.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Holland said:


> I thought BIN would be messier with a roller. Wasn't a mess at all (screening off the excess from the nap of course, prior to rolling).
> 
> Nobody that I know of (around here) uses BIN to prep cabinets. I even asked the local supplier outright if he would recommend it as a primer, and they still suggested other primers.
> 
> ...


Go smaller than a 3/8" though, if you want it babys as smooth. Wont look quite sprayed, but close.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

@cocomonkeynuts,

I used a Synthetic shellac primer (during the shellac shortage- remember that?) and found that it did not effectively block some stains from returning.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Go smaller than a 3/8" though, if you want it babys as smooth. Wont look quite sprayed, but close.


It's a trade-off: can make it more difficult to get into the corners and grooves with shorter nap.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> I thought BIN would be messier with a roller. Wasn't a mess at all (screening off the excess from the nap of course, prior to rolling).
> 
> Nobody that I know of (around here) uses BIN to prep cabinets. I even asked the local supplier outright if he would recommend it as a primer, and they still suggested other primers.
> 
> ...



Ya, BIN sticks better than most. Only competition would be StiX IMO. Except Stix won't help any tannin bleed and doent sand as well.
I use to brush and roll all my cabinet doors with fantastic results. You'll never quite get a sprayed look, but still really nice as long as it;s consistent. Plus, once your set up to spray, it's soo much faster. But of course you need the space for spraying..


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

I like the short nap velor whiz for bin.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

@Kevyn, 

I would be interested to learn how you handled this job. 
I've never considered spraying in an occupied house. Hope you will share when the job is done.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> @Kevyn,
> 
> I would be interested to learn how you handled this job.
> I've never considered spraying in an occupied house. Hope you will share when the job is done.


 Should get going on this next week. Will update my progress!


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I noticed a lot of members here use BIN. Has anyone that’s used it seen how it performs in the long run? I’ve only used it twice, both times on my own home, the first time being on 2 bedroom furniture sets. 

After several years it cracked and lifted along the grain, and can be easily scratched off with a fingernail where it’s cracked. It appears to have little give to repeated & minor seasonal expansion and contraction of the underlying substrates (probably the reason it doesn’t work well on exteriors). When I did the furniture, I used oil primer on similarly painted woodwork in the two rooms. The oil primer under the same conditions remained perfectly intact. Painters around here would often use white pigmented shellac to prime inexpensive luan veneered doors only to have the shellac crack along the grain within a few years. 

I also used it to prime a few new Andersen Window insert replacement grilles on my home 4 years ago. The primer underneath the paint is literally flakining off by itself. The balance of the grilles were oil primed 13 years ago and still look new. 

I’ve never been a fan of BIN because it doesn’t seem to perform well in the long run given extreme 4 seasons environments.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

I never experienced any long term difficulties with BIN on wood, but I did have a couple of radius window casing tops that were made of a rubbery synthetic substance that BIN alligatored on. That casing was the oddest stuff Id ever seen, some half fast solution to being able to get the radius piece on custom windows to fit better. Horrible stuff, the only time I ever saw it, must have never caught on. Thank heavens. It evidently could only be painted with latex without alligatoring when flexed (it flexed quite easily, you could literally roll it up).


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

MikeCalifornia said:


> BIN for the win, but spray it!! You already need to mask the area for spray, so just spray the BIN too?? BIN dries way to fast to do any brush and roll well. Why spend the time sanding out brush and roll marks when you could spray then quick sand and dust. Your time will be with the advance and getting that right. I would use 311FFLP for the BIN and 309FFLP for Advance, super light coats. Also skip the STIX should not need after BIN.


good advice here, a lot of corners to hit with a brush. bin smells gross but it clears quickly plus youre not spraying a lot of it. admittedly switching between the two is a bit of a pain. if they are picky with the finish they will have to deal with smell for a bit


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Redux said:


> I noticed a lot of members here use BIN. Has anyone that’s used it seen how it performs in the long run? I’ve only used it twice, both times on my own home, the first time being on 2 bedroom furniture sets.
> 
> After several years it cracked and lifted along the grain, and can be easily scratched off with a fingernail where it’s cracked. It appears to have little give to repeated & minor seasonal expansion and contraction of the underlying substrates (probably the reason it doesn’t work well on exteriors). When I did the furniture, I used oil primer on similarly painted woodwork in the two rooms. The oil primer under the same conditions remained perfectly intact. Painters around here would often use white pigmented shellac to prime inexpensive luan veneered doors only to have the shellac crack along the grain within a few years.
> 
> ...


I've only just started using it on cabinets, so time will tell. Fingers crossed.
Good point though Redux as the can states for spot priming only. In your experience, was that on new wood or over another coating? It definitely doesnt have as much flex as an oil or acrylic primer. I would think the same as laquers too. They are very hard coatings and have seen them flake and chip on cabinets especially around the sink area.
There's something to be said about manually applying primer as it gets worked into the wood, where when spraying it on barely has time to seep in and on some surfaces is just a dusting..especially on a project like this where there are so many angles. Just some food for thought.
Suppose I could just keep a brush handy and chop a few area's that are hard to get/ missed edges etc..and spray the majority of it. Definitely spray the top coats.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I've only just started using it on cabinets, so time will tell. Fingers crossed.
> Good point though Redux as the can states for spot priming only. In your experience, was that on new wood or over another coating? It definitely doesnt have as much flex as an oil or acrylic primer. I would think the same as laquers too. They are very hard coatings and have seen them flake and chip on cabinets especially around the sink area.
> There's something to be said about manually applying primer as it gets worked into the wood, where when spraying it on barely has time to seep in and on some surfaces is just a dusting..especially on a project like this where there are so many angles. Just some food for thought.
> Suppose I could just keep a brush handy and chop a few area's that are hard to get/ missed edges etc..and spray the majority of it. Definitely spray the top coats.


The (cheap) furniture was unfinished & fabricated out of MDF and mixed wood species. It worked fine on the MDF yet cracked along the grain on the wood. I may have overly built it which could have been a contributing factor. I had sprayed it as well. 

The window grille inserts were bare wood. The grilles weren’t subjected to rain or condensation, but the BIN appeared to be intolerant to seasonal humidity changes, resulting in the primer flaking off. 

Although it’s been around for decades, BIN never really caught on here and I haven’t really heard or know of anyone using it locally aside on the cheap lauan doors I mentioned. I was curious as to why that is and how it holds up in the long run.

You make a good point about it being hard & inflexible, and also not penetrating.


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## Respec (Sep 13, 2015)

*Cabinet coat with Gennex tints*



cocomonkeynuts said:


> 1Wb.200 is waterborne and very mild solvent odor. Cabinetcoat IMO is easier to lay out than advance and doesn't have issues curing out in dark bases you can put it on 50mils and it will still cure reasonably fast. My biggest issues is that it tints on universal colorants and getting colors to match BM colors is tricky. In my experience with off whites need to hold off about 30% black for most off whites then they're pretty close.
> 
> 
> I have also used flattening paste(powder) from targetcoatings to lower the sheen to match lower sheen lacquers. ~25g/ gallon brings it from satin to a lower pearl sheen.


I have used Cabinet Coat quite a bit on cabinets and had occasional issues with it cratering when it had raw umber universal tint in it. We went back and forth with the Benjamin Moore technical guys a couple times and narrowed the issue down to that tint. They suggested we had it tinted with the Gennex tints instead, and we have never had an issue since as far as cratering goes. We have stopped using it as our go to cabinet paint, though, because we had a few customers complain that the finish marred. When the light would hit the cabinet doors, you could see around the knobs where their nails had made faint marks on the finish that couldn't be washed off. I am not sure if this may have happened before the finish was completely cured, but you could see them. It is very faint and minor, but is noticeable to my pickiest customers, so we stopped using it for that reason.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Respec said:


> I have used Cabinet Coat quite a bit on cabinets and had occasional issues with it cratering when it had raw umber universal tint in it. We went back and forth with the Benjamin Moore technical guys a couple times and narrowed the issue down to that tint. They suggested we had it tinted with the Gennex tints instead, and we have never had an issue since as far as cratering goes. We have stopped using it as our go to cabinet paint, though, because we had a few customers complain that the finish marred. When the light would hit the cabinet doors, you could see around the knobs where their nails had made faint marks on the finish that couldn't be washed off. I am not sure if this may have happened before the finish was completely cured, but you could see them. It is very faint and minor, but is noticeable to my pickiest customers, so we stopped using it for that reason.


I have some doors at my shop that I sprayed with dark blue CC about a year ago. If I run my finger nail over it today, it still mars. I think this is true with most dark colours, except maybe a laquer.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Ok. So I finished this one up. Turned out really nice. Ended up spending way more time on prep work then anticipated. Filled all joins with A combination of Elmer's wood filler, a light weight filler and drydex for final coats. Easier to work with than the wood filler.
Brushed all the pine with shellac and rolled MDF with 046. Caulked all the decorative trim. Touched up filled spots. Sprayed another fog coat of the 046 on entire thing. Need ed it to look consistent so I could see any flaws prior to top coats. Almost 3 coats of primer in total..
Then sprayed 2 coats ScuffX pearl finish sanding with 220 between coats.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Ok. So I finished this one up. Turned out really nice. Ended up spending way more time on prep work then anticipated. Filled all joins with A combination of Elmer's wood filler, a light weight filler and drydex for final coats. Easier to work with than the wood filler.
> Brushed all the pine with shellac and rolled MDF with 046. Caulked all the decorative trim. Touched up filled spots. Sprayed another fog coat of the 046 on entire thing. Need ed it to look consistent so I could see any flaws prior to top coats. Almost 3 coats of primer in total..
> Then sprayed 2 coats ScuffX pearl finish sanding with 220 between coats.


Looks TERRIFIC! :vs_cool: I'm happy to see the MDF did not react badly to the water based primer.


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## SS_painting (Jan 11, 2020)

I would use BIN. The smell disapates so quickly.
2 coats, in between is when I'd do all my prep. Once dry, sand, and refill/caulk where necessary, then apply your 2 top coats

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Respec said:


> I have used Cabinet Coat quite a bit on cabinets and had occasional issues with it cratering when it had raw umber universal tint in it. We went back and forth with the Benjamin Moore technical guys a couple times and narrowed the issue down to that tint. They suggested we had it tinted with the Gennex tints instead, and we have never had an issue since as far as cratering goes. We have stopped using it as our go to cabinet paint, though, because we had a few customers complain that the finish marred. When the light would hit the cabinet doors, you could see around the knobs where their nails had made faint marks on the finish that couldn't be washed off. I am not sure if this may have happened before the finish was completely cured, but you could see them. It is very faint and minor, but is noticeable to my pickiest customers, so we stopped using it for that reason.



FYI it seems corotech and inslx products will be moving to dual gennex/universal colorant systems in the near future. No word yet if CC will be updated to tint on gennex.


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