# Painting Massive Metal



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

I'm asked by a local steel mill to paint some of their 'big stuff.'

The plan is ... they take stuff apart for some serious, periodic maintenance, and I paint the pieces while they work on it. They finish their work, the paint dries, they put it all back together.

Mind you, 'painting' in this instance usually involves using a crane to flip the pieces over to paint the 'other' side. 

My first problem is that the usual oil-based paints - I'm actually using S-W B54T104, which is quite similar to RustOleum - are not drying fast enough. Maybe it's the high local humidity (measuring 63% today), but I really need the paint to be tack-free or 'dry to the touch' in six hours. 

My second problem is that I've been using some Penetrol to 'help' the paint flow into the various welds, etc.- thinner makes it too prone to having runs and sags.

Will Japan Dryer work for me? Or, will it simply fight with the Penetrol and leave me with a gooey mess?

Also ... can I store paint once I've added Japan drier? Or, will it set / skim in the can?


----------



## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> I'm asked by a local steel mill to paint some of their 'big stuff.'
> 
> The plan is ... they take stuff apart for some serious, periodic maintenance, and I paint the pieces while they work on it. They finish their work, the paint dries, they put it all back together.
> 
> ...


I met a painter in my area that had a formula for Japan dryer and Penetrol. Unfortunately he wouldn't share the ratio with me. He said he had been doing it for years. They do quality work. I have no reason to believe he was misleading me. Might be worth experimenting.


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

I suggest a phenolic alkyd or Universal Primer. Accepts hot solvent based coating. Highly rust inhibitive. Great adhesion. Very quick dry. More $ but solves the drying issue. Forcing an alkyd to dry and level adds costs and interferes with original manufactures formulations. There are a meriad of manufactures with Universal Primers. These are single component. Sounds like you may be using a shop coat.


----------



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

I admitthat I don't know the difference between a 'phenolic alkyd' and a simple 'alkyd.'

Here's the spec sheet on my paint: http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B54W101

I will have a chat with S-W today, and see what advice they have to offer.

Otherwise, I appreciate the feedback. So much of the information we get from manufacturers is incomplete or confusing .... OK, maybe the chemist is a genius, but what's that mean on the shop floor?

I note that the sheet calls for a primer ... something I have not found necessary for this clean metal .... and asserts the paint is 'quick drying.' I'd hate to see what they consider 'slow drying.'


----------



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Notes from using Japan Drier ONLY, mixed with the paint according to directions:

The stuff is an oily brown syrup that took some effort to mix into the blue paint. 

Paint, as applied, did seem to show some brownish streaks. The appearance of these streaks lessened as the paint dried. Otherwise, the paint applied as usual.

Less than four hours later the paint was dry to the touch. At this point brush marks are evident .... even though they were not so evident when the paint was applied. Gloss seems somewhat less than usual; almost a satin.

I will check it in the morning. I've had piants level out considerably as they cured in the past.


----------



## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I've had good luck using Naptha in oil primer to help it dry quicker.


----------



## MrPaint (Feb 19, 2012)

Lots of air movement will help since alkyds react with oxygen to cure.

Excerpt from Generic Coating Types - Lloyd M. Smith
"Alkyd coatings cure and form films by reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid component with oxygen from the air. However, the chemical reactions do not stop once the film has formed, and with continued reaction and oxidation, the coating eventually becomes brittle and deteriorates."


----------



## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> I admitthat I don't know the difference between a 'phenolic alkyd' and a simple 'alkyd.'
> 
> Here's the spec sheet on my paint: http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B54W101
> 
> ...



The data sheet is a standard alkyd enamel. It is not a primer. It is slow dry. Try a Rapid Dry enamel instead.


----------



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Just a follow-up on yesterdays' results:

The streaking and brushmarks I was worried about have disappeared; the new coat has very closely conformed to the original surface texture. I've got the classic 'thin, even' coat.

Looks like I might be OK with just the Japan drier, and not need any help from Penetrol. I will try a mix of the two today, and let you know what results I get.


----------



## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

Well, one of my questions has been answered: Penetrol and Japan Drier WILL cancel each other out. 

Japan Drier = fast surface dry, more brush marks

Penetrol = Better leveling, slower drying.

Here's what Flood, the maker of Penetrol says:

"The Japan dryer would actually cancel the Penetrol out, so you really wouldn't gain anything by using both."

I thank Flood for actually answering my e-mail question, and not just sending me some marketing double-talk.


----------



## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

Another vote for Naptha.:thumbup:


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

watch out, those chems will make you look like a walking piece of bacon. Ask me I know.


----------



## AbsolutePainting (Feb 9, 2011)

nEighter said:


> watch out, those chems will make you look like a walking piece of bacon. Ask me I know.


...as in hazardous to your health? Please elaborate... I use then quite often, so knowing would be super nice.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

just wear proper PPE and follow what they say. It is a long story.. just go by what is recommended and that is all.


----------



## AbsolutePainting (Feb 9, 2011)

Message received.


----------



## painter213 (Nov 5, 2008)

Just read the MSDS for ALL products that your using. That's what there for. SAFETY!!


----------

