# speed drying oil stain



## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Has anyone force dried oil stain and poly in the same day...multiple coats? Heat gun/ hair drier/ fan/ chemical additives? I have some to touch up looking for input.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

We used to use lacquer based stain. Thats beens quite a few years. Not even sure if the still make it?


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

i remember somebody on here , awhile back saying they striped , stained , and put 2 coats of poly in one day . 
what ya staining ? Front doors exterior by chance, if so let know. I have had 
pretty good luck with Old master's gel stain ..It gas's out pretty good . Maybe 
1 coat stain and 1 coat poly in a day . That"s the most i have ever pushed it .
spar varnish seems like it takes forever to dry .:whistling2:


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Forgot to mention I used Minwax stain and oil poly. The stain requires 4 hours to re-stain and 8 hours before coating - 8 is never enough.


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## StevenH (Sep 7, 2009)

You can add some japan driers to poly, but don't add too much or it will crack.

That is the down turn of oil based products its their drying time.


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## jnigh (Feb 24, 2011)

i dont know what your doing, but i would recommend a laquer based stain (rudd or valspar) and if you have to do oil, then add some naptha and maybe a lil heat for just a bit.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Is there a 'Advance' version for poly?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

plainpainter said:


> Is there a 'Advance' version for poly?


Advance, as far as I can tell, still carries with it a long recoat time.


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## AbsolutePainting (Feb 9, 2011)

Old Masters has an oil base quick dry, 30 min. to top coat. Rust-oleum makes one that can be top coated in an hour.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

There is waterborne poly. I dont like it. If BM comes out with one that I can use extender with I will buy it. I am not sold on WB over oil stain and that is all I can get in my small town.

Here is a pick of the project I was refering to. The railing was damaged on install. We are just going to keep making trips to finish it right.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

If you can only stain the damaged areas, you may be okay to apply the finish shortly thereafter. Anytime I've seen someone try to force dry an oil-based stain, all they've done is dry the outer-layers and the oil tends to work it's way to the surface, causing some real problems.

If there are shallow dings or gouges you can try to steam them out with an iron and some alcohol and distilled water. Go heavier on the alcohol - it will dry faster and doesn't have any metals in it to possibly discolor the wood.

I just did three custom doors that the installer banged up pretty bad on Tuesday using a steam iron and this method. Only one gouge didn't repair all the way, but it was so low on the door it really wasn't noticeable. Was able to apply two heavy coats of WB Varathane Floor finish on them the same day. Yesterday, I sanded them down and applied two coats of SW WB Satin Varnish. Baby butt smooth and a nice even sheen. Saved the HO and contractor about $1700 to replace the doors and made $450 for about 6 hrs of easy work. Materials were all left-over partials that I had, so no cost there at all.

She gave me an antique rocking chair to strip and refinish for her also. Taking it down to have "dipped" today.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Now are you guys talking about interior doors ? Or exterior doors . I mainly do exterior doors . Products that I mainly use are varthane by Kelly Moore or old masters stain man of war poly . It always seems to take 3 trips to do a door. 
I have seen some nice finishes with wb 
Poly but if I went that route with wb I would to apply an additional coat of sand 
And sealer . If that works maybe, wb stain 
Might save me a day . Anybody have any luck using wb stains and sealers on exterior doors ?


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