# Best filler for Oak cabinets: Any experience with Aqua coat or FPE Swedish Putty?



## Coughlin (Jun 30, 2016)

I have a rather large set of oak cabinets we are going to refinish in a couple of weeks. I proposed that we would do our best to fill the grain of the wood and my thought was to skim them with Fine Paints Swedish Putty to do so. I have used it a few times and it seems very good. Just curious as to your experiences. Thanks


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

I'm really liking the goodfilla product. I found it easier and faster than aquacoat and can be sprayed.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> I'm really liking the goodfilla product. I found it easier and faster than aquacoat and can be sprayed.
> Gork's Goodfilla with Barry Gork at VTS 2019 - YouTube


That's a game changer if true. I tried the Aquacoat and it takes 3-4 coats and a ton of time. I don't think I'll use it again. Too bad because it's eco friendly with no odor and goes on like butter.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Wow, that’s a really innovative product.


I had to watch twice though. Barry’s pants were distracting.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

fauxlynn said:


> Wow, that’s a really innovative product.
> 
> 
> I had to watch twice though. Barry’s pants were distracting.



He has a paint/stain base too that has a basically unlimited open time too. Can always come back and blend.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

fauxlynn said:


> Wow, that’s a really innovative product.
> 
> 
> I had to watch twice though. Barry’s pants were distracting.


I think he is really excited about his product.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I personally think filling the grain on Oak cabinets is a waste of time. I just back roll my primer to drive it in the grain. I see nothing wrong with the grain. It's the beauty of oak IMO.
By the time you prime, fill, sand, prime, paint, you may as well just get new MDF doors. (No grain) made up.., But I guess if thats the look your going for it would definitely work. That goodfilla does look great though.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Being involved on the hardwood flooring end of finishing, I’m familiar with Timbermate water based wood filler, which was also developed by Barry Gork. Many of the installers I’ve worked with use it. It is a tried and proven product that is widely used in the hardwood flooring industry. It’s also used extensively as a pore filler. Barry Gork is a recognized name in the industry, who served as director for the NWFA. Although I haven’t tried it, I suspect Goodfilla is similar if not the same as Timbermate.

On the flip side, I’ve included a review of Timbermate vs Aqua Coat as a grain filler for painted oak cabinets. 


https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/My-Review-of-Timbermate-Grain-Filler-on-Oak-Cabinets


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Redux said:


> Being involved on the hardwood flooring end of finishing, I’m familiar with Timbermate water based wood filler, which was also developed by Barry Gork. Many of the installers I’ve worked with use it. It is a tried and proven product that is widely used in the hardwood flooring industry. It’s also used extensively as a pore filler. Barry Gork is a recognized name in the industry, who served as director for the NWFA. Although I haven’t tried it, I suspect Goodfilla is similar if not the same as Timbermate.
> 
> On the flip side, I’ve included a review of Timbermate vs Aqua Coat as a grain filler for painted oak cabinets.
> 
> ...


I've used the Tibermate before and it dries too quickly for cabinet door application. The positive of using Aquacoat is it has a much longer open time and it glides like butter over a surface. The Timbermate has a lot of drag to it and a stronger odor. Bottom line is it's not easy to work with if you are doing fine detail work. Yes, for floors where you are not filling in every square inch it's a great option.

I've watch tapers add carpenters glue to all purpose drywall compound when they want 'fiber tape' to stick to a surface better. I've never attempted it but why not fill the grain pores of cabinet doors with the same thing? I'd wager there is no way in hell that it will fall out and it's a snap to apply and sand. Sealing it would be the most important step. If you want to be even safer use exterior vinyl Spackle instead of the mud. I'd be hesitant to add glue to the spackle.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Mr Smith said:


> I've used the Tibermate before and it dries too quickly for cabinet door application. The positive of using Aquacoat is it has a much longer open time and it glides like butter over a surface. The Timbermate has a lot of drag to it and a stronger odor. Bottom line is it's not easy to work with if you are doing fine detail work. Yes, for floors where you are not filling in every square inch it's a great option.
> 
> I've watch tapers add carpenters glue to all purpose drywall compound when they want 'fiber tape' to stick to a surface better. I've never attempted it but why not fill the grain pores of cabinet doors with the same thing? I'd wager there is no way in hell that it will fall out and it's a snap to apply and sand. Sealing it would be the most important step. If you want to be even safer use exterior vinyl Spackle instead of the mud. I'd be hesitant to add glue to the spackle.


I’m in agreement with you on the Timbermate, the reason for posting the review by others.

I’ve fortunately never encountered the need to pore fill for paint grade finishes, the clients always choosing diffuse porous species such as maple for paint grade finishes. High solids/high build primers pretty much covered all my needs. 

I’ve regularly added PVA glue to joint compound when using straight-flex tape, or when joint compound is dusted. Dunno how it would behave with a WB primer over wood.


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## JohnDoor (Apr 7, 2020)

Very helpful thread. Was just looking into some grain fillers and there are a couple hear that are new to me and worth looking into. Thanks. Goodfilla - love the name.


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## Coughlin (Jun 30, 2016)

Thank you guys for the help. I haven't worked with much oak and haven't had to fill grain as yet. It looks like I may not actually have to use a filler to fill the grain on this project either. I am hoping I can get a sufficient fill with a high build primer and avoid the wood filler altogether. Do you guys have a favorite for that situation? I was thinking of doing two coats: one of BIN to seal it and one of BM Oil Enamel Undercoater which sands like butter.


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## Warner Painting (Sep 3, 2019)

I’ve used AquaCoat on a good sized cabinet job - three coats, sanding lightly between each coat and after - it does a great job. It IS smooth as butter, but time consuming. The results, however, are excellent. You can’t cheat with a thick coat - it will crack easily. I’ll either charge more next time, use a different product or avoid the option altogether - way too much work.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Coughlin said:


> Thank you guys for the help. I haven't worked with much oak and haven't had to fill grain as yet. It looks like I may not actually have to use a filler to fill the grain on this project either. I am hoping I can get a sufficient fill with a high build primer and avoid the wood filler altogether. Do you guys have a favorite for that situation? I was thinking of doing two coats: one of BIN to seal it and one of BM Oil Enamel Undercoater which sands like butter.


That's what I would do. Are you spraying? Except I would do BIN and then Probably BM 046 latex.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Coughlin said:


> Thank you guys for the help. I haven't worked with much oak and haven't had to fill grain as yet. It looks like I may not actually have to use a filler to fill the grain on this project either. I am hoping I can get a sufficient fill with a high build primer and avoid the wood filler altogether. Do you guys have a favorite for that situation? I was thinking of doing two coats: one of BIN to seal it and one of BM Oil Enamel Undercoater which sands like butter.


The BM 217 does have good filling capacity and would be my first choice if not pore filling. It does sand like a charm. I’ve done a fair share of birch veneer doors and mahogany window packs primed with the 217, both birch & mahogany having deep diffuse pores, the underbody pretty much rendering a 90+% pore fill after sanding, the pores being barely to not noticeable after receiving top coats. Dunno how well it would fill the pores on oak though. 

Probably wouldn’t hurt to do a back side of one door as a sample and have your client sign off on it first, just to CYA.


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## Respec (Sep 13, 2015)

When we grain fill oak, we will do two coats of Stix, sand it down, and then a third coat. We have found spraying an additional coat of primer saves a lot of time filling and sanding the filler. You generally will just need touch up filling after that. If the Stix is showing a lot of bleeding, we will use BIN for the 3rd coat. I offer the grain filling as an upgrade that I charge for. I just let them know what to expect with and without filling and they tell me what the want.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Very early on in my business, we’d use a product called Feather Fill for porous wood surfaces. It was a high-build 2-component polyester spray-applied primer/surfacer. It was commonly used in the automotive painting industry yet was wood compatible. It wasn’t compatible over some existing finishes due to containing hot solvents. I couldn’t vouch for the product, not having used it in a good 30+ years, thinking the product has been reformulated since then.


http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDS_100391_FEATHER_FILL_2_2015_EN.pdf


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## slapiton (Jul 28, 2007)

I agree, waste of time. I have always just told my customer that they will see the grain. Never had a call back or a complaint about the grain with many of cabinet jobs done.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Redux said:


> Very early on in my business, we’d use a product called Feather Fill for porous wood surfaces. It was a high-build 2-component polyester spray-applied primer/surfacer. It was commonly used in the automotive painting industry yet was wood compatible. It wasn’t compatible over some existing finishes due to containing hot solvents. I couldn’t vouch for the product, not having used it in a good 30+ years, thinking the product has been reformulated since then.
> 
> 
> http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDS_100391_FEATHER_FILL_2_2015_EN.pdf


Jeff jewitt recommends 2k polyester in his book but I would agree not worth it to work with hot solvents. If a waterborne solution exist that can be sprayed than that's the ticket.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Jeff jewitt recommends 2k polyester in his book but I would agree not worth it to work with hot solvents. If a waterborne solution exist that can be sprayed than that's the ticket.


Feather Fill is still being used and touted by many finishers, particularly as a filler for profiles milled out of MDF where WB fillers aren’t an option. 

I “think” it might have been Jeff Jewitt in c/o the Taunton Press who saved my a$$ by assisting us with troubleshooting the crazing experienced with solvent borne lacquers back in the 80’s...identifying the failure as being a veneer issue rather than the finish..

I’d be interested in reading his book.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Redux said:


> cocomonkeynuts said:
> 
> 
> > Jeff jewitt recommends 2k polyester in his book but I would agree not worth it to work with hot solvents. If a waterborne solution exist that can be sprayed than that's the ticket.
> ...


It's a good book for beginners and has some interesting tidbits but I suspect you already know most everything written in that book. It's sort of out dated at this point anyway.


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## canopainting (Feb 12, 2013)

Aquacoat is a pain in the ass.


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## Grey's Painting (Mar 7, 2021)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> I'm really liking the goodfilla product. I found it easier and faster than aquacoat and can be sprayed.


How do you thin this to spray it ? What do you spray it with, what tip do you use or needle , which exaxt product by goodfilla ? THANKS !


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