# Bathtub glazing project.



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I am finally getting started on the bathtub project. Cleaning old paint off first with a razor. I am planning on doing a post per step. This is the first one I have done, so constructive comments are welcome on the process.

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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Here is the progress after cleaning. The stuff by the drain is thick and not cleaning well, mineral deposits maybe???

Cleaning was done with a cleaner from TopKote and applied with a green scotchbrite pad. On tough areas, a 80 grit norton 3x sandpaper was used as well with the cleaner. This eventually lifted the thicker residue by the drain as well. Tub was then rinsed with water and wet rags to remove cleaner.

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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Cleaned and ready for the next step.

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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

Looking good....going to be a far cry from those Tile Doc kits I imagine....

Jeremy


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

So, are you going to brush, or roll? :whistling2:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Well, almost a success. I could not keep the turbine air hose from rubbing the edge of the tub. Sand and recoat tomorrow.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Here is stuff bondo'd before the crosslink primer was applied.

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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Looking good.. Can't wait to see the finished product..


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Well, here is where I always go wrong. After finishing the tub the first time, I saw a little bit of dust nubs in a corner and noticed that the bottom had some pock marks and was uneven, so I said to myself "Self, you can do better than this.". So I proceeded to bondo the bottom and try to even stuff out.










When it came time to sand, I realized that the bottom of the tub was not flat enough to power sand. So, I hand sanded until everything looked smooth. Finished it again. Well, hand sanding wide areas of bondo by hand to perfectly smooth for a high gloss finish is even harder than I would have guessed. A lot more hand sanding and finish #3 was applied.

Well, after coat 3, there appeared to be dust in the bottom. Sand and recoat.









Well, after coat 4, there appeared to be dust in the bottom. Sand and recoat.

Well, after coat 5, there appeared to be dust in the bottom. Sand and recoat.

Well, after coat 6, it looked like a little more dust than finish coat 1 but without the imperfections that you could not see in the porcelain until the high gloss was applied. I have officially given up.

Here is the final picture









Would I try this again? On my own tub and shower (which really needs it anyway), sure.

If that goes well, maybe. But probably not. Not worth the hassle. Not a fan of the harsh chemicals.

If I did it again, think I would look for a high build epoxy base coat. High gloss is, obviously, very unforgiving. Between dust and the difficult hand sanding bondo, this was not a fun project. It was surprisingly poor sanding until the coating had cured for at least 24 hours (would clog up granat sanding pads) and sometimes the sanding clumps would want to melt to the tub finish and stick. I was very surprised how thin the finish was recommended to be, and I even added a little extra for better layout. I tried it out since it was a clawfoot tub that could come to me. Seemed the best way to do something I have wanted to try for a while.

I guess my plan B for my hvlp turbines is going to have to be a spray tan business.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

How many hours? 37?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

It is a ton of work, and with the market paying around $400 to redo on here I don't bother even trying. If you have ever done any body work then painting one isn't so bad, but spraying this stuff in someone's house is.

If you have good ventilation Dean wetting down the concrete floor before spraying is always a good idea. Helps a lot with airborne dust.


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I stumbled onto this site wile looking for a product to refinish ceramic counters and sinks in my own house. I've used hvlp systems and shot many different kinds of specialty coatings before um polymix,scuff master,zolotone ,all kind of stuff. I want to do the sink white n the tile counters like a multispeck like granite. The most important thiing to me is having it stik n hold up. I got to decide on wat product line to use. Any suggestions I'd appreciate. That tub, from the picture, looks nice to me. You put the time in on ur prep n ure a methodical worker I appreciate that. On the bottom there., not dust just little antiskid for safety. I'd live with that. Good job


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

According to builders who have had it done before and looking into it a bit, it does not even pay $400 here.

Usually, dust is not an issue in my shop. I try to keep fresh rosin on the floor, vacuum around the area, turnoff furnace blower, etc. I am not sure if it was the nature of spraying fast drying things in a deep tub, dust, or imperfections that just could not be hand sanded away that were amplified by the high gloss. 

As for total hours, I do to even want to guess any more. More than I would for a $289 job with a $189 starter kit (1 gallon finish, 2 quarts bonding primer, 3 quarts thinner, and training video).

Edit: forgot the clearer, 3 quarts.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Dean, no hydrofluoric acid to etch the porcelain proior to coating?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I can't believe you were able to sand the bondo by hand. Props man.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Dean

I bet a soft interface pad on a small radius gear driven sander capable of high grit polishing could do a number on that.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The cleaner that came with it has sulfuric and hydrochloric acid. From what I have read, the wipe-on and spray on cross linking bonding agents make etching optional. The only guy I have watched do this did it this way and topkote seems to be a very reputable brand, so I trusted their system rather than try to do it my way on a first try, I originally was going to etch, but after reading up on stuff, it seemed to be optional depending on the system.

I thought about buffing, but at this point, I may just leave well enough alone, not sure I want to risk scratches on something that already taxed my patience.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> Dean
> 
> I bet a soft interface pad on a small radius gear driven sander capable of high grit polishing could do a number on that.


Pretty much what I was thinking.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Come to Vegas, Dean. You need some laughs.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> Pretty much what I was thinking.


Yep. I was just staring at the cherry countertop slab we took out to 6k grit. Glass. 

Thats whats cool about the soft interface, you can actually polish on a contour like that.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I should make the pdca sometime. It would be fun. Maybe if it is in chicago sometime. 

If anyone complains, I will try buffing for sure, but it gets delivered tomorrow when we finish the walls and installed on Tuesday. Tomorrow evening it could maybe be buffed.

Vlies for the buffing?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

DeanV said:


> I should make the pdca sometime. It would be fun. Maybe if it is in chicago sometime.
> 
> If anyone complains, I will try buffing for sure, but it gets delivered tomorrow when we finish the walls and installed on Tuesday. Tomorrow evening it could maybe be buffed.
> 
> Vlies for the buffing?


I dont think I would do vlies, depending on the sander you have, there are real gaps on how much you can step up through the grits. Vlies is very much like scotchbrite.

We take granat as far up as we can and then switch over to actual polishing pads and polish.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

What sander? I have the RO 90 and 125, ETS 125, rts 400, and ras 115.
Enough options for now. I do not have the soft interface pads though.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I should make the pdca sometime. It would be fun. Maybe if it is in chicago sometime.


St Louis next year.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> St Louis next year.


Good food. Is that confirmed Paul?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Hmmm, pwg's hometown, right?


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> Good food. Is that confirmed Paul?


That's what a board member told me last Wednesday. According to him, it costs national $30k to ship everything, hotel rooms and air fair for staff. They want to try saving some money next year.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> Hmmm, pwg's hometown, right?


Yep. Could be a good turn out of PT'ers just to get a chance to meet the legend lol.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Hmmm, pwg's hometown, right?


Yep. PARTY at Tims house next year!


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I should start laying the ground work to stay in Tim's storage shed with a propane heater and a hot plate.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

DeanV said:


> What sander? I have the RO 90 and 125, ETS 125, rts 400, and ras 115.
> Enough options for now. I do not have the soft interface pads though.


I'd do the tub with the 90 for the best shot at making full contact in the contours.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> I should start laying the ground work to stay in Tim's storage shed with a propane heater and a hot plate.


I know where you can borrow a coconut bra to use as earmuffs.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Shoot, that is the south, probably a tent and no heater would be fine.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> I'd do the tub with the 90 for the best shot at making full contact in the contours.


Again what I was thinking for the size but then I thought it may be a problem if Dean did not sand it with the 90 and did it by hand.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I know where you can borrow a coconut bra to use as earmuffs.


 lol I had a hilarious response typed for that.


DeanV said:


> Shoot, that is the south, probably a tent and no heater would be fine.


Sounds like a raging party in Tim's yard.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> Dean
> 
> I bet a soft interface pad on a small radius gear driven sander capable of high grit polishing could do a number on that.


My first thought as well Scott, but I don't know if these coatings are made to be buffed. Body work is similar, you can spray in a poor booth and have dust all in the clear coat, then wet sand and buff it to perfection. 

Of course the goal is to eliminate that step. Especially in a case like this where there isn't any money there to begin with.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Well, apparently the bar set by tub finishers is pretty low here. Even though I was not happy with the finished product over all, it sounds like it turned out better than the showers he has had a tub glazer redo in the past.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Without an automotive type spray booth, buffing out afterwards is the only way I have heard of attaining a smooth finish after paint. Considering this example, IF this is a topcoat that handles such a thing, after sanding the roughness from the first coat and applying the second coat, a final wet sanding and then buffing would have provided an automotive quality finish. Hypothetically speaking that is, I have never refinished a bathtub. The minimal experience I have with Urethanes on automotive equipment CAN be, although it is highly frowned upon by EPA I am sure, (have witnessed certain gov't departments do this) sprayed outside even, allowed to dry, sanded and polished. 

I have a potential tub refinishing job I am looking at this Monday. Thanks for this thread. Caution will be used in assessing the cost estimate.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Good luck with it John. Let me know how it turns out.


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

Will do Tommy. I tried to bypass even the estimate. He is too nice of a guy though. Talks a bit. Knows some of the people here I have become friends with. There is a bit of a history with the old timers of this island. If he is willing to pay I kind of have to do it now. Thanks for the lead sir. :thumbsup:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I am really glad I have someone I can trust to hand off these OI leads to. Seems most of them search Wilmington when looking for a contractor.

He seemed to be a nice guy, very southern.


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## Finn (Dec 18, 2011)

DeanV said:


> I am finally getting started on the bathtub project. Cleaning old paint off first with a razor. I am planning on doing a post per step. This is the first one I have done, so constructive comments are welcome on the process.
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Paint Talk


What type of sprayer hvlp ? Did you use ?


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## N&M Painting (Aug 20, 2012)

Wow, lot's of work. Looks great though.


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