# Unique bare MDF doors



## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Check out these bare MDF doors we need to paint SW 6523 Denim. These are bathroom doors to the sauna/shower area. The doors came from a company called Interlam out of VA.

What you see is two coats of Gardz applied to the bare MDF.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Pretty cool looking doors. Not sure mdf would be at the top of my list for sauna doors though. GardZ might work well to lock the moisture out though.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Snazzy looking doors - can't wait to see them finished!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Those are getting sprayed right? I see the can of duration there...that stuff doesn't like to play nice with a brush.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Pretty cool looking doors. Not sure mdf would be at the top of my list for sauna doors though. GardZ might work well to lock the moisture out though.


These are going to be 2 sliding pocket doors that open into a larger room broke into a toilet area, powder room, sauna and a shower.

I'll get pics. These are heavy!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

DeanV said:


> Pretty cool looking doors. Not sure mdf would be at the top of my list for sauna doors though. GardZ might work well to lock the moisture out though.


Looks like they're just faced with MDF.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Those are getting sprayed right? I see the can of duration there...that stuff doesn't like to play nice with a brush.


Actually we are spraying them tomorrow with Duration Satin which should maintain the cool look you see in the 1st pic.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

JP, you've gotta be the only person I've seen to have 45 gallons sitting around to paint a couple doors.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Thick. I need to make that laminated edge look solid. I'm going to be doing that with paint and a orbital sander. Just going to layer it up smooth.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> JP, you've gotta be the only person I've seen to have 45 gallons sitting around to paint a couple doors.


We got kicked out of the 1st floor for a floor finish, so we loaded up the elevator and hauled it to the the basement. Pretty sure we have stuff on each of the 4 floors still but most in the basement.

Had to paint those screens you see. 45 of them. There shipped with only primer and both sides got painted. PITA! It took 1 hour and 6 minutes each. 2 coats

Then as if that wasnt enough fun, we have 53 of these heating/cooling covers to paint a variety of colors.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

1 hour and 10 min for each screen?!? Should have subbed it out to Ole....:whistling2:


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Those are unique doors, can't wait to see the finished product. A guy on another forum did a house in the panels of same style here.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NC, there is actually some Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo in that group. That was nice to spray for a change.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Wolfgang said:


> 1 hour and 10 min for each screen?!? Should have subbed it out to Ole....:whistling2:


Yep. Sand and 2 coats on each side. I used a 2.5" angular Benjamin Moore 65125 brush. It was the perfect brush to paint those IMO. Super tight form. I applied Sherwin Williams SuperPaint at 6mil - 7mil each coat.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

RCP said:


> Those are unique doors, can't wait to see the finished product. A guy on another forum did a house in the panels of same style here.


I like that on a wall. Very unique. Any idea what that wall color is on that link?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

I don't know, but I could ask him, check out his site, does some awesome stuff.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

65125, I can't be sure, but I think that's the Wooster ultra pro extra firm....at least that's what I replaced with the BM brush in the shop.

Pro shot would be awesome for those grids. Use the cup liners to change colors quick.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> 65125, I can't be sure, but I think that's the Wooster ultra pro extra firm....at least that's what I replaced with the BM brush in the shop.
> 
> Pro shot would be awesome for those grids. Use the cup liners to change colors quick.


We talked for hours about those grids. We tried a quarter (25cents) size and a nickel size round pattern on the HVLP dialed down to pretty much just atomize enough to blend together.

Then I was planning on shooting them with a FFT210 in swift single direction single pass but then I found out we had 7 colors to do so... HVLP shot 4 times each side in various directions. 

Now that they are done... I'm not sure the ProShot would produce a light enough coat. It was very difficult to get paint on that laminated wood. I think it was made up of 5-6 layers. Not exactly smooth like PVC because its like painting the edge of plywood. I had a hard time keeping too much build up from the top smooth face trying to get inside all those nooks.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Dip em next time maybe?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Dip em next time maybe?


I was going to dip them in Gardz believe it or not for the sole reason of sealing that endgrain. I bet it would have worked nice.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> 65125, I can't be sure, but I think that's the Wooster ultra pro extra firm....at least that's what I replaced with the BM brush in the shop.
> 
> Pro shot would be awesome for those grids. Use the cup liners to change colors quick.


I doubt the extra firm. Its got spring but the 65125 is not firm. Why did you drop it? I can see the extra firms being better for Aura, maybe. What brands do you stock? Wooster etc?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

those look like the same company that did the paneling for one of Chris Wright of Wright Works Inc's projects

http://www.wrightworks.net/remodeling-photo/interior-specialty-remodeling-photo/

Look at the portfolio


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> Check out these bare MDF doors we need to paint SW 6523 Denim. These are bathroom doors to the sauna/shower area. The doors came from a company called Interlam out of VA.
> 
> What you see is two coats of Gardz applied to the bare MDF.


It would be fun to surf around the face of that door with one of those little finger skateboards my kid has.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Different Strokes said:


> It would be fun to surf around the face of that door with one of those little finger skateboards my kid has.


I'm sure that would be more fun than spraying them. :thumbsup: They cant be sprayed straight on in a repetitious pattern like a typical door. Felt like I was surfing with a spray gun.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> I'm sure that would be more fun than spraying them. :thumbsup: They cant be sprayed straight on in a repetitious pattern like a typical door. Felt like I was surfing with a spray gun.


whaddya do Jack, start your pass from each end and work across the length of the door spraying both sides of the waves? Until you get on a big swell, then you gotta ride it out!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> I doubt the extra firm. Its got spring but the 65125 is not firm. Why did you drop it? I can see the extra firms being better for Aura, maybe. What brands do you stock? Wooster etc?


Brushes ---> Corona, ( Cortez, Delta, Excalibur, White Angle, and a few Corbins ) Wooster, most are being replaced by the BM line, but I still carry the Alpha's The BM brushes ive brought in so far, 67 series which is 100% polyester, the 64 series which is the extra firm nylon/poly ( not the 65, I was at home and couldnt remember  ) the 65 series which is the firm nylon/poly. Then a few off brand brushes, mostly sell those as junkers for slopping on alkyds/primers/stains on exteriors. :thumbsup:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Applied two coats of Duration Home Satin over the 2 coats of Gardz. THEN the interior decorator called and asked that we change it to semi-gloss. So.. 

The photos are of Satin


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Different Strokes said:


> whaddya do Jack, start your pass from each end and work across the length of the door spraying both sides of the waves? Until you get on a big swell, then you gotta ride it out!


I sprayed the short width of the door. I had to follow the curves and angle the gun. Soaked er!


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

I guess they were going for the curtain look eh?

I've never used guardz...Were the doors difficult to sand and tack cloth?...Never been a big fan of purple..Is that still the "denim"?...It looks purple in that photo.Some designers can be a bit too much.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I like the satin finish. Semi-gloss would be just too shiny for those doors IMO. 


As a retailer, I love decorators. Nothing makes me happier than when they change something and I get to sell the materials....twice on the same job  Although, ive run into a few that when they want something changed, they blame us for making the color wrong. Then when they want it replaced....THEY WANT IT REPLACED IN A DIFFERENT COLOR! :no: If we did something wrong, we'll replace it in the SAME color. :yes:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

JoseyWales said:


> I guess they were going for the curtain look eh?
> 
> I've never used guardz...Were the doors difficult to sand and tack cloth?...Never been a big fan of purple..Is that still the "denim"?...It looks purple in that photo.Some designers can be a bit too much.


The color Denim on the SW chip is what it looks like. The purple cast is coming from tons of overhead can lights plus an entire wall of windows.. it really is blue.

I lightly scuff sanded the Gardz coat but not between coats of Gardz. If I were to do these or any other bare block of MDF I would mop it on with a nylon brush. 2 coats did fine but I would have liked to see more saturation. Gardz is thin so I shot it straight out of the can but I had to be careful not to create pools of sealer in those grooves.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> I like the satin finish. Semi-gloss would be just too shiny for those doors IMO.
> 
> 
> As a retailer, I love decorators. Nothing makes me happier than when they change something and I get to sell the materials....twice on the same job  Although, ive run into a few that when they want something changed, they blame us for making the color wrong. Then when they want it replaced....THEY WANT IT REPLACED IN A DIFFERENT COLOR! :no: If we did something wrong, we'll replace it in the SAME color. :yes:


Shot original Proclassic acrylic today. Forgot to take a pic but I think we lost sheen with the coat of semi. If nothing else, there is no noticeable change in sheen.

Having seen these doors up close. I would a) keep satin or b) extreme gloss. The middle of the road doesnt seem right. I like them when they were wet.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> Shot original Proclassic acrylic today. Forgot to take a pic but I think we lost sheen with the coat of semi. If nothing else, there is no noticeable change in sheen.
> 
> Having seen these doors up close. I would a) keep satin or b) extreme gloss. The middle of the road doesnt seem right. I like them when they were wet.


All proclassics is actually a step down in gloss from what the label says on the can. If you bought semigloss proclassics, what you actually got was satin. 

I did this once when I bought satin proclassics and it appeared as a low lustre eggshell.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Different Strokes said:


> All proclassics is actually a step down in gloss from what the label says on the can. If you bought semigloss proclassics, what you actually got was satin.
> 
> I did this once when I bought satin proclassics and it appeared as a low lustre eggshell.



I used it for the first time last week and thought the same thing. Thanks. I probably would have tried it again thinking it was an application thing.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Different Strokes said:


> All proclassics is actually a step down in gloss from what the label says on the can. If you bought semigloss proclassics, what you actually got was satin.
> 
> I did this once when I bought satin proclassics and it appeared as a low lustre eggshell.


Lets hope the decorator knows what shes talking about. My guess is it should be glossy. 

No question SW sheens are quite skewed from the norm. Slight reductions knock the sheen right out of some of their paints but not so much with other brands.

I've found SW's paint and primer recommendations are horrible for achieving full sheen. The primers suck the sheen right out of the paint. This same job has a few areas where I used Gardz under SuperPaint Semi-gloss without any reduction and ill tell you what... its glossy! Same can applied over primer turns satin even after 2 finish coats.

Ready to wrap up this job... we started it last September. :wacko:


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Your job or one you consulted on?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Your job or one you consulted on?


No, this is the same job I've been posting pics of since sept. Guess there were other jobs posted since but majority are the same 11,000 sqft house.

Caught a nice buzz today spraying clear on the elevator. Wow. Not fun.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I'm just curious - Your a consultant here or your project, or are you just working for the PC?

Thanks for posting all the pics. Good stuff.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

What in the world are you spraying that is giving you a buzz through a respirator?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Its another PC's. Lots of consulting but hands were tied, its specd by people who dont paint. Also some very good lessons coming from this job, lots of back n forth between us. Its been a real challenge for me as its done almost entirely with SW and he knew how much I love SW but now he really knows how much! What other paint can you apply at 24 mil and still need another coat? Really?! At least we shared the experience together. Its more enlightening when you can call it first, then experience it, then come up with plan B.

I like achieving the best finishes the quickest way possible and unfortunately SW is not part of that equation for me. I've been too spoiled for too long. I was telling Scott a bit about it. Coming out of this job with tons of great stuff once I get some time to post it. 

We are wrapping it up next week. Last couple weeks have been odds and ends. The decorators have been around offering their painting tips because we have no clue what we are doing. Should I be offended if they tell me 'be sure to sand between coats' on a finish that is best left not sanded between coats? I sanded in protest.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> What in the world are you spraying that is giving you a buzz through a respirator?


Lenmar poly. You're inside a box! My mistake was taking the mask off too soon as it lingered in the room.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> Applied two coats of Duration Home Satin over the 2 coats of Gardz. THEN the interior decorator called and asked that we change it to semi-gloss. So..
> 
> The photos are of Satin


Freakin beautiful in satin :yes:


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

I prefer the eggshell or satin finish for THOSE doors ...I'm not a big fan of gloss or high gloss.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

JoseyWales said:


> I prefer the eggshell or satin finish for THOSE doors ...I'm not a big fan of gloss or high glosss.


It does show off the door nicely in satin. This house sits on the lake. They are using those dock cleats for door handles. Similar to this one.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> It does show off the door nicely in satin. This house sits on the lake. They are using those dock cleats for door handles. Similar to this one.


great idea...I'll pass it along to my designer.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I bet that door would have been awesome in another product. Maybe a dye and clear topcoat.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> I bet that door would have been awesome in another product. Maybe a dye and clear topcoat.


That door would look great in Impervo waterborne.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I was thinking a quality cabinet finish from MLC, but yea impervo would have been good.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> I was thinking a quality cabinet finish from MLC, but yea impervo would have been good.


One of the things I never cared for was how Duration Home Satin looks like plastic. Reminds me to those molded plastic chairs or kids yard toys. Little tikes stuff.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

JP I don't think I have ever used the trim paint. Even when I had to use it for walls I still used my own trim paint. 

I shot 40 plus doors last week in proclassic gloss. They looked great, and I checked them twice before leaving the garage, and I started spraying trim inside the house. One of my guys came in about 15 minutes later to say they were sagging.  

It was really bad, and I learned how not to spray with that paint. It too looks like plastic.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> JP I don't think I have ever used the trim paint. Even when I had to use it for walls I still used my own trim paint.
> 
> I shot 40 plus doors last week in proclassic gloss. They looked great, and I checked them twice before leaving the garage, and I started spraying trim inside the house. One of my guys came in about 15 minutes later to say they were sagging.
> 
> It was really bad, and I learned how not to spray with that paint. It too looks like plastic.


Waterborne or waterborne alkyd not that it matters greatly but w/a tends to let loose easier.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

WB, and first time I had used it in forever. I should have done some testing first, as in spray a few doors and wait a few hours. I did two looked them over for a few minutes, and they looked great. I was sure that they would pull tight and look awesome, how wrong I was. 

Putting in fans did help, but I wasn't expecting that.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> WB, and first time I had used it in forever. I should have done some testing first, as in spray a few doors and wait a few hours. I did two looked them over for a few minutes, and they looked great. I was sure that they would pull tight and look awesome, how wrong I was.
> 
> Putting in fans did help, but I wasn't expecting that.


I know what you mean. Its like that for me any time I spray something out of my regular paints. Typically I like to apply heavy coats but that depends. Those pre-primed MDF doors can be soaked because so much of the finish goes away but the second coat will likely have some reduction and it will be a much lighter coat.

I've been working with a PC using SuperPaint Semi-gloss, Proclassic Waterborne alkyd. SuperPaint can be applied very heavy on primed surfaces and I am surprised how little is left when it dries, even over Zinsser CoverStain. I'm talking 24 mils thick, laying flat on a sawhorse. Coated! Now take Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo and mist a coat over coverstain, same materials and you have gloss. What a difference.

The ProClassic Waterborne alkyd was fine to spray but it too in comparison over the same materials turned dull and left a finish that desperately need coated again. It's all about getting gloss in the first coat because how I see it -- that final coat we do is for durability not to make it look uniform and solid.

This is why I've been experimenting with Gardz over all sorts of surfaces. It gets you to gloss fast even skipping the primer coat on bare poplar. Crazy stuff.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

JP any updates?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

nEighter said:


> JP any updates?


I'll grab a pic today... just getting ready to leave. They hung the doors and put the hardware on yesterday. Turns out the two doors do not match when you put them together. (the waves) The installers thought they did too, apparently not. We left the Proclassic semi-gloss as-is.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

*Final*


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

that makes me drool.. what great doors man.. and the colors of that place are really nice too!


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Had to switch cameras to pull-off a true color photo. The iphone tends to run off when there is no white to balance from.

Overall, I like the look too. Sliding these heavy doors is also something to experience. They slide slow, you can tell they have weight to them.

Here is the floor and stair color we did.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

nEighter said:


> that makes me drool.. what great doors man.. and the colors of that place are really nice too!


If you stare at them long enough they start to move!!! Looks sharp JP.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Yes, very cool looking JP.


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## crazyson2001 (Jan 3, 2010)

Those look awesome. Maybe I missed this....but what room do those open up into? Looks like a bathroom maybe?

We're they able to get the pattern to line up after all?

Colors look really good too.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

crazyson2001 said:


> Those look awesome. Maybe I missed this....but what room do those open up into? Looks like a bathroom maybe?
> 
> We're they able to get the pattern to line up after all?
> 
> Colors look really good too.


Its in the bottom floor of this 4 story house. Its the entrance to the bath, sauna, shower, powder room area. From where I took the pic, if I turned to the left I would be looking out to the lake. The patio door with the sawhorse.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

They do match. The hardware was removed and flipped the right door. Much better.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> They do match. The hardware was removed and flipped the right door. Much better.


Don't you love that? Did it leave you some holes to patch and touch up?


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Don't you love that? Did it leave you some holes to patch and touch up?


Yep. The handles were recessed into the wave.


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## sully9er (Jan 24, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> They do match. The hardware was removed and flipped the right door. Much better.


Jack, that picture made me go from six to midnight. Those doors look hot.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I hope that hardware isn't gonna stay exposed like that. The doors do look sick.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

Those doors are slick buddy.:thumbsup:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

The hardware stays. They need to put hardware back on the right door.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

I agree, needs some sort of valence over the track at the top.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> I agree, needs some sort of valence over the track at the top.


My bad. Door hardware stays. The track get covered back up with wood pc seen few pics back. We took it down to paint.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Couple more.. here is the patch job. Done with Elmers and wet sanded, then we ended up putting Gardz back over the patch, dried her down and built her back up.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I want a set of doors like that. How much would they put me back?


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