# Stripping Exterior Window Frames ?



## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I don't do exterior work as a rule. Now I am stuck with a bunch of window frames that need to be stripped prior to painting. I tried scraping, burning and sanding. None of the above are working efficiently. The heat gun works well but only inches a a time and is very slow. How would you people handle a tough window stripping? (I'd use my belt sander but the areas are too tight)


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Piranha 4 or Nexstrip Pro are my goto low toxicity removers. Needs 55 plus temps to activate.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

PRC said:


> Piranha 4 or Nexstrip Pro are my goto low toxicity removers. Needs 55 plus temps to activate.


Shoot, I was hoping to avoid chemical strippers but I suspected I was going to need to. :vs_shocked:


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

The couple I mentioned are not bad to work with compared to methyl chloride. The benefit of removers is that time works for you. Put the stuff on as heavy as it will hang ,cover it with thin mil plastic , let it dwell then once it's bubbled for the plastic and scrape. If it's not all removed just apply more. The piranha 4 is my favorite because in the right temperatures it's fast acting and requires no neutralization.


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## Crackshot (Dec 29, 2015)

frames and/or sashes?
what is the current coating? oil enamel ?


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Crackshot said:


> frames and/or sashes?
> what is the current coating? oil enamel ?


Both, & the paints involved: top layer appears latex primer, next seems oil, next?? and finally some kind of 1912 gray goop! The "gray goop" seems to be the sticking point and the rally tough layer. :vs_mad:


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Sounds like chemical strippers might be the only option if it's tight quarters. 

If you can take it back down to a somewhat basic or semi-decent surface level, you could probably get away with doing a bonding primer or something like a thicker bonding primer such as Prime RX or XIM Peel Bond. Something to maybe build out any texture difference to create a semi-smooth surface without having to go down to bare wood. But not sure of the condition of your project, sounds kinda messy. But at least it's something to consider or maybe even try a small sample out. 

If your belt sander can't get in this probably won't either, but it might be worth checking into, who knows. 

https://www.eco-strip.com/

Basically an enlarged heat gun at the end of the day.


Good luck and let us know how it turns out.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

I'd hire a laborer.  and use a stripper....boy, that doesn't sound quite right....well, whatever. Actually if ya did it right ya just might get it done pretty quickly and cheap that way! ROFLOLOLOL.....i crack myself up sometimes....

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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

lilpaintchic said:


> I'd hire a laborer.  and use a stripper....boy, that doesn't sound quite right....well, whatever. Actually if ya did it right ya just might get it done pretty quickly and cheap that way! ROFLOLOLOL.....i crack myself up sometimes....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



GEE, Thanks for that!:vs_laugh:


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

woodcoyote said:


> Sounds like chemical strippers might be the only option if it's tight quarters.
> 
> If you can take it back down to a somewhat basic or semi-decent surface level, you could probably get away with doing a bonding primer or something like a thicker bonding primer such as Prime RX or XIM Peel Bond. Something to maybe build out any texture difference to create a semi-smooth surface without having to go down to bare wood. But not sure of the condition of your project, sounds kinda messy. But at least it's something to consider or maybe even try a small sample out.
> 
> ...


:biggrin: Sounds right to me! Thank you for that. (My Dad used to use a torch. He finally did manage to burn a house down!)


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

jennifertemple said:


> GEE, Thanks for that!:vs_laugh:


Well it sounds like a sucky job, may as well get a laugh out of it somehow....sorry it wasn't a bit more helpful.  Good luck with it. I've got a similar situation coming up this summer. And it's the bosses house so I am the laborer:/

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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

It IS a "Sucky" job! I'm staying with the heat gun as being the cleanest mode of removal. Fortunately most of the areas I need to prep I can use my belt sander. It's just the crummy window frames are a pain. 

Appears those windows were scorched in a fire at some point. At least the scorching will sand off.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

jennifertemple said:


> It IS a "Sucky" job! I'm staying with the heat gun as being the cleanest mode of removal. Fortunately most of the areas I need to prep I can use my belt sander. It's just the crummy window frames are a pain.
> 
> Appears those windows were scorched in a fire at some point. At least the scorching will sand off.


What a pane indeed...

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I hope you're wearing gloves and a respirator when you're working on those windows since you're dealing with lead paint. 

Scrapers can also work well, but they must be very sharp. I've liked the Bahco scrapers.


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## Roamer (Jul 5, 2010)

You could try the Speed Heater. Infrared light that cooks off the paint. Leaves an incredibly smooth surface with little sanding afterwards.

They retail for $450/a pop. However, the kit includes several angled scrapers that are incredibly sharp.

https://eco-strip.com/


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Roamer said:


> You could try the Speed Heater. Infrared light that cooks off the paint. Leaves an incredibly smooth surface with little sanding afterwards.
> 
> They retail for $450/a pop. However, the kit includes several angled scrapers that are incredibly sharp.
> 
> https://eco-strip.com/


Howe long have you used this system. 

$500 US is a lot, given all the conditions on warranty which in the best case scenario, is still only 1 year. My vacuum cleaner cost half that and the warranty was 2 years. 18 months in, they gave me a brand new machine for want of a switch repair. I always see warranties as the manufacturer's idea of how long their item will reasonably last! CDN $ is way down from the US$ and I do not see the system being sold in Canada.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

lilpaintchic said:


> I'd hire a laborer.  and use a stripper....boy, that doesn't sound quite right....well, whatever. Actually if ya did it right ya just might get it done pretty quickly and cheap that way! ROFLOLOLOL.....i crack myself up sometimes....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


By the way, I hope I'm around to Cheer you on when you get to your boss's house later. :vs_laugh:


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

I'm redoing my home office and I pulled the sashes out to refinish. They were painted shut pretty good, so I've stripped the whole thing, re-strung the weights, new bronze weatherstrip, the works.

I'm using a heat gun to strip them and a Fein Multimaster to remove old glazing. That's the best way I've devised thus far, but it would be a different story if I wasn't pulling the sashes.


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

I also have the luxury to have those crappy aluminum storm windows, which I'm retaining until my windows are all complete and reinstalled. Otherwise, I'd plywood the openings. The old windows are very service-friendly, but everyone messed them up through the years.

Mine are 105 years old.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

ParamountPaint said:


> I also have the luxury to have those crappy aluminum storm windows, which I'm retaining until my windows are all complete and reinstalled. Otherwise, I'd plywood the openings. The old windows are very service-friendly, but everyone messed them up through the years.
> 
> Mine are 105 years old.


1912 build, nice, this is also a 1912 and I am sticking with the heat gun. It is actually moving along quite well. I just loath exterior work and really was looking for a fantasy out!:wink:


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

jennifertemple said:


> 1912 build, nice, this is also a 1912 and I am sticking with the heat gun. It is actually moving along quite well. I just loath exterior work and really was looking for a fantasy out!:wink:




Lilpaintchick veered off into the fantasy thing back in post #8. 
We really need to keep an eye on her. 


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> Lilpaintchick veered off into the fantasy thing back in post #8.
> We really need to keep an eye on her.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ya gotta admit, it'd make things easy. And somewhat entertaining. Just add a clown and a goat to the mix and you could charge admission and make yer money on both ends of the deal! 

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