# Burl Wood Faux Finish



## PaintWork

This is my second attempt at faux, this time I tried faux wood.

I chose to do Burl cause it really didn't seem like a lot of tools required.

I used a light brown base coat, I just picked a mistint light brown from our local paint center. 

I used Old Masters Cherry and Dark Walnut stains. After the second coat of base dried, I got a small foam brush and dabbed 1" lines of Cherry randomly and spaced apart. I then grabbed my second foam brush and dabbed the Dark Walnut in random patters, between the Cherry and sometimes overlapping. 

After the Dark Walnut was applied, I used paint thinner and with a third foam brush, I brushed the paint thinner along anywhere there was exposed base coat.

Using a plastic bag, I rolled the entire board, mixing it together. I then used a lettering brush and swirled the brush along the board. 

After the "knots" were made I went back and used the Dark Walnut and used a fine artist brush and went around the eyes


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## PatsPainting

pics? I have always wanted to learn this.


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## PaintWork

Pics


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## RCP

That turned out great! Did you just make that process up or follow some instructions?


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## PaintWork

RCP said:


> That turned out great! Did you just make that process up or follow some instructions?


I went by instructions from an amazing book titled "Professional Painted Finishes: A Guide To The Art and Business of Decorative Painting"

I may do more wood graining if I can get the tools online or go for the marble finishes next


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## Paradigmzz

PaintWork said:


> I went by instructions from an amazing book titled "Professional Painted Finishes: A Guide To The Art and Business of Decorative Painting"
> 
> I may do more wood graining if I can get the tools online or go for the marble finishes next


I like that book too, its sitting on my shelf right now .


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## RCP

Thanks, I just ordered it!


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## Roadog

They have a school on Long Island
http://www.thefinishingschool.com/aboutus.htm


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## PaintWork

Burl wood #2


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## Rob

That looks really good!


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## PaintWork

Thanks Rob


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## LouLewyLewis

Good job...


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## PaintWork

Thanks


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## jnigh

so to state the obvious the base paint is oil based as well? has anyone tried lacquer based stains? explain the "rolling" with plastic bag im curious. what did you use to topcoat? thanks man great job.:thumbup:


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## PaintWork

The base is just an acrylic latex semi gloss. After both coats dried I then dabbed the wiping stains in 1" lines randomly. The bag rolling just blends the two stains with paint thinner. I used a plastic grocery bag, crinkled it up and gripped it on top and with a fist, just lightly rocked the bag back and forth, lifting up after each roll.


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## PaintWork

As for the top coat, it's just the stains. I veined using the dark walnut with a fine artist brush and smoothed them out with a wider rounded brush


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## Wolfgang

That is some nice work. Feels good to do something like that and have those results doesn't it? You obviously have some artistic talent as well. Now go make money with it. (Can't wait to see a "How do I bid this?" thread for doing something like this. LOL)


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## PaintWork

I've already been asked to give a couple bids for different faux finishes. I did well


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## PaintWork

Thanks for the kind words Wolf


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## michael tust

PaintWork said:


> The base is just an acrylic latex semi gloss. After both coats dried I then dabbed the wiping stains in 1" lines randomly. The bag rolling just blends the two stains with paint thinner. I used a plastic grocery bag, crinkled it up and gripped it on top and with a fist, just lightly rocked the bag back and forth, lifting up after each roll.


Generally a Satin Basecoat is More suited for Graining and M.arbling. Semi Gloss tends to be Too Slick. A Common Acrylic will work, but there are better choices for a basecoat. If you need to Erase your work,they can be a problem.


Michael Tust


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## PaintWork

Thanks Michael. This gallon was a mistint from a local paint store. It was either get a gallon for $5 for the mistint or $12 for a quart. Tried to do it as cheap as I could but make it work. But you're right on the semi gloss being a little slick. It's been fun. I'm trying marble or granite next. I'll use satin this time.


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## Roadog

Your doing great for self taught! When you get ready, substitute the stain for glaze. You will need to invest in some tints but they are not too expensive. For woods I prefer oil, I mix linseed (raw) 1 part to about 3 parts min. spirit. I think Michael prefers a different oil but they will get you there. I also start, depending on the wood, with a beer glaze. Stale beer, (Guinness seems best....or better than Bud) mixed with about 10 parts water and tinted. This way the beer glaze dries fast and you can go over it with oil without opening it back up. Used for pores and overlays/flogging. Acrylic version would be something like Liquitex. 
As far as investing in a lot of tools, like I did, you will end up finding you only really need a few. A good badger and hog hair softner is a must and a flogging brush. After that, you can make grain from burlap to wiping away with a rag.


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## PaintWork

Yes, I'm a noob to faux so be patient . Why substitute with glaze? And what do you mean by tints? Just a white glaze tinted by the store? Man, you had to make it harder on me hehe. I thought this method I did was easy enough . But of course I'm a great student and I want to learn more and more.

This method you're talking about Road, would it be the same method as the stains? Use the glazes in the same way, dabbing 1" lines and bag roll? What's the benefits of using glaze instead of stain?


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## michael tust

PaintWork said:


> Yes, I'm a noob to faux so be patient . Why substitute with glaze? And what do you mean by tints? Just a white glaze tinted by the store? Man, you had to make it harder on me hehe. I thought this method I did was easy enough . But of course I'm a great student and I want to learn more and more.
> 
> This method you're talking about Road, would it be the same method as the stains? Use the glazes in the same way, dabbing 1" lines and bag roll? What's the benefits of using glaze instead of stain?


I think if you continue having this enthusiasm good things happen ! There are MANY ways to achieve good Graining. The book you have is OK for some things,but I find that they sometimes have TOO many steps that are unnecessary... Roadog and I basically use similar Glazes when we Grain / Marbleize..... You will need to learn how to mix / tint colors with Glazes eventually , as stains are not ideal for Graining . When you use a properly mixed Glaze ,you will see the difference. The Beer Glaze that Roadog mentioned can be very difficult to use for certain effects... But is a incredible medium. The beer has sugar which is the binder that makes the powdered pigment stick. Guinness has a very high sugar content,that is why it is better then Bud. You can achieve many Grains with limited tools but I prefer a large collection. If you start getting Graining jobs you WILL need to know how to choose base coat colors and mix your own Glaze colors.


Michael Tust


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## PaintWork

Thanks Michael


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## PaintWork

Going off of using beer. What about using Sprite or Coke? Since you're using beer for the binding sugars? Why not just use the above?


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## michael tust

PaintWork said:


> Going off of using beer. What about using Sprite or Coke? Since you're using beer for the binding sugars? Why not just use the above?


That will probably work just fine.... You been drinking the glaze up?


Michael Tust


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## PaintWork

lol. Knew that was coming. I also read apple cider was being used. 

Wish I could fly to Cali for the wood graining class. But with a baby on the way, money is tight! Instead I'm still hittin the books. Of course it's up to the clients, but I've been wondering what woods are popular in faux. I like the Macassar Ebony and wanna try it but I keep wondering how popular it'd even be. Been reading up on how to choose base color and glazes and so forth. One thing I wonder is the powder pigments. Where do you get those? And I was wondering about using Sprite cause it's clear. The beer would add a darker tone when mixed with the pigment? 

You've been supportive and encouraging Michael. Thank you


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## michael tust

PaintWork said:


> lol. Knew that was coming. I also read apple cider was being used.
> 
> Wish I could fly to Cali for the wood graining class. But with a baby on the way, money is tight! Instead I'm still hittin the books. Of course it's up to the clients, but I've been wondering what woods are popular in faux. I like the Macassar Ebony and wanna try it but I keep wondering how popular it'd even be. Been reading up on how to choose base color and glazes and so forth. One thing I wonder is the powder pigments. Where do you get those? And I was wondering about using Sprite cause it's clear. The beer would add a darker tone when mixed with the pigment?
> 
> You've been supportive and encouraging Michael. Thank you


Thanks !
The Popular Woods for me are...Mahogany..Walnut..Cherry... But learning other woods can improve the ones you already know... I have only been asked once to do Macassar Ebony... but when clients see that you can do a variety of woods,sometimes you have the opportunity to do something out of the ordinary..The beer tone doesn't change the tone... Google Kremer Pigments... there in N.Y. Beer is Ok... Dextrine is better.... I prefer Dextrine.. Beer can be weak sometimes and I do not want to apply an isolating layer... Waste of Time !


Michael Tust


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## kjelsvik

*Nice Burl Finish.*

I have to agree with Michael on this regarding base coats. Semi gloss is generally too slick. Eggshell works good for most finishes. However, sometimes you want a little grab (especially with a burl finish or heartwood finish). I like to use flat enamel with a little propylene glycol as an additive. As a spray on base, I find it is perfect. Otherwise sponge rollers or short naps work good too. The glycol allows the paint to smooth more like an oil, without losing the integrity of the base. It dries a little slower, but the set up is very consistent. Cheaper and more effective than most paint additives (ie: flotrol, extenders, glazes) on the market. At least this is what I have found to be true. 

I would love to add some images,however I'm still working on a website, and this forum only allows http. Coming soon. Cheers.


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## kjelsvik

kjelsvik said:


> I have to agree with Michael on this regarding base coats. Semi gloss is generally too slick. Eggshell works good for most finishes. However, sometimes you want a little grab (especially with a burl finish or heartwood finish). I like to use flat enamel with a little propylene glycol as an additive. As a spray on base, I find it is perfect. Otherwise sponge rollers or short naps work good too. The glycol allows the paint to smooth more like an oil, without losing the integrity of the base. It dries a little slower, but the set up is very consistent. Cheaper and more effective than most paint additives (ie: flotrol, extenders, glazes) on the market. At least this is what I have found to be true.
> 
> I would love to add some images,however I'm still working on a website, and this forum only allows http. Coming soon. Cheers.



I think I was posting to something on the first page.
However: regards to glazes:
One of my fav's for woodgraining:
Art oils instead of tints. Linseed oil, thinners, & glazing medium. If I need a little more grab (shorter set up) and translucency, I'll add some deep tintable (oil) base as well. Can't give you precise mixture becuase it depends on the finish, the tools and applicators you're using, as well as the base you're working on. Experimentation is key. Keep working at it. Enjoy


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## Cgallagher

That is very beautiful work. :thumbsup:


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