# Need lil help with a sag/run problem with WATERBORNE PROCLASSIC!



## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

Suggestions on a quick and dirty way to grind down runs/sags out of Sherwin Proclassic waterborne semi-gloss trim paint? I let it buck with my 490 and a 210 tip, I would normally bust out the HVLP since it was only two small bedrooms, but I got impatient and rue the day....... Rest of remodel was a stain and lac prefinish Alder job.

Was scanning some other threads and one talked about using lacquer thinner (had hard time following thread) on runs/sags, but I could not understand the paint they were trying this on!?!#$? :blink:

We normally use Proclassic oil, but was trying to keep fumes down for HO. This stuff sands like gum!:no:


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

You can use the thinner, how did the alder turn out?


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## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks the alder turned out goregous!  Thanks to Mrs. RCP and yourself for the couple of heads up on finshing it! I'll post some pics soon, we are starting the Alder cabinets in the "bar area" friday.

A large part of this sag issue was, too much material flowing and the basement was tooooo cold. I should have bumped the heat up a bit a few hours before.....


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## brushmstr (Feb 15, 2009)

We wet sand with water and 220.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

brushmstr said:


> We wet sand with water and 220.


Good idea and also do not be afraid to use an electric sander with W/D paper, you will need an old school orbital that takes sheets and put a little soap in the water. Be prepared to scrub the paper with a nylon brush when it clogs which will be about every 30 seconds. Take a sponge and it will turn out good as new or better.
Ever try thinning your paint with hot water?


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

brushmstr said:


> We wet sand with water and 220.


^-- This.

I just wet sanded some waterborne pro-classic semi today actually. It's some gummy stuff to sand out for sure. I'll take a razor and slice off the heaviest part of the run then take some 120 and wet sand. It'll cut pretty fast. You'll want to take a sponge or some dry 220 to it after it dries out to smooth it out again before re-spraying.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

I really am starting to hate that paint. Between the headaches, the runs and drips and the price what is the point?


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## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

seems to me its better brushed on i cant even imagine sraying it its like glue it starts settin up in a matter of minutes


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Well it's too late now but as I see a run forming on a door, I go ahead let it dry to touch but with the run still wet because it has more paint on it, I will wet my finger and smear it on the door.Sometimes when this dries you can't even tell it was there.This will work with bags too, but you have to time it right.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

tntpainting said:


> seems to me its better brushed on i cant even imagine sraying it its like glue it starts settin up in a matter of minutes


Boy, you said it. The only thing good about this paint is, it dries pretty hard.I really think it is Behr paint with a SW label on it.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

You know guy's this brings up another thing that causes runs on doors. If the door is cold and you paint it water borne it almost always runs. It would be nice to somehow read the temp of the door before you paint it so you know if you need to keep an eye on it or not.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

A single edge razor or a hand plane. Also, wet sand with some flex edge paper (the red stuff) if you can find some if dry sanding doesn't knock it down.

That flex edge paper is awesome stuff to have handy. I save my used paper from sanding walls and grab those scraps for all sorts of sanding needs.


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