# Dust in Sikkens Cetol 23



## jnapadow (Aug 25, 2018)

Has anyone had trouble with Sikkens Cetol 23 and what appears to be dust bumps? I ran the liquid through a filter, used a tack cloth and still this is how the finish is turning out. This is just a test as I am supposed to be applying it to garage doors. This was applied with a paint brush. Any insight would greatly be appreciated.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

home depot junk. Ignore the quality control so we can sell it cheaper. Happens all the time. That's why their brushes haven't been trimmed.


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## jnapadow (Aug 25, 2018)

I actually purchased it at a PPG retailer. I was also thinking, maybe, because I hadn't given it a full 12hrs to cure before applying the top coat. Thing is, the house has two entry doors and two garage doors finished in the stuff. The owner wants the garage doors refinished to match one of the entry doors that is still in good condition. I matched the color spot on but am hesitant to apply this stuff. Took a week of stripping and sanding. The garage doors are wood and western facing. Is there a better product? This stain set me back $300 for 4 gallons. I had to mix Dark Oak and Red Mahogany.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I would run another test giving an adequate cure time between coats. I would lightly sand 1st coat before application of topcoat. It looks like a product related problem to me. I would not proceed until you figure this out.


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## jnapadow (Aug 25, 2018)

Here's a before photo of a door that the homeowner applied poly to a year ago.









after stain removal, wet from wash down










one more dried


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jnapadow said:


> I actually purchased it at a PPG retailer. I was also thinking, maybe, because I hadn't given it a full 12hrs to cure before applying the top coat. Thing is, the house has two entry doors and two garage doors finished in the stuff. The owner wants the garage doors refinished to match one of the entry doors that is still in good condition. I matched the color spot on but am hesitant to apply this stuff. Took a week of stripping and sanding. The garage doors are wood and western facing. Is there a better product? This stain set me back $300 for 4 gallons. I had to mix Dark Oak and Red Mahogany.


Get your paint rep out there to look at it....


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Junk. No matter where you buy it, it has been cheapened down to a price point. Happens to every good product once SW and PPG get their hand on them.


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## Brushman4 (Oct 18, 2014)

Did you shake the can before using? That for sure will cause bubbles in a clear!


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

PACman said:


> Junk. No matter where you buy it, it has been cheapened down to a price point. Happens to every good product once SW and PPG get their hand on them.



Its pretty sad. This product was THE stain to use 10-15 years ago around these parts. Every house has it. Now every year the price goes up up up, discontinued colors, and you can't even buy the original anymore only the RE (low VOC) formula. PPG doesn't even bother to use a UV stable ink on the can label it fades very quickly next to a window. Also has very low margins, wish I could dump this brand for something better unfortunately it has sort of a cult following here its the only brand people know. IMO SRD and Door&Window are the only good products from cetol/sikkens anymore.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

@jnapadow - If you can't work out your issues with Sikkens cetol and you still want to stay with an oil then I would go with Waterlox Marine. It is expensive but it will last and will not peel if properly maintained. Maintaining the finish is applying an additional coat at the very first signs of failure. Just scuff it up a bit and brush or spray on another coat. 

You will start with waterlox original sealer. You can either stain first or if you are using and oil based stain mix it right in with your first coat of Waterlox Original. You can mix your stains to get desired color and put into Waterlox Original 4 parts, stain 1 part. Apply another 1 or 2 coats of Waterlox Original until it stops soaking in. Then you can apply the Waterlox Marine two coats thinned a little with paint thinner or naptha. Waterlox Marine is not poly it has a phenolic resin that will flex with temperature changes. I get my Waterlox from paintsource.net.

Another option is generalfinishes Exterior 450 waterbased line. They have stains and topcoats that would give a faster turnaround than Waterlox. I have never used it but I am looking for a job to try it on. Others on here have with good results. I cannot attest to its durability but I think its eorth a try.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

jnapadow said:


> I actually purchased it at a PPG retailer. I was also thinking, maybe, because I hadn't given it a* full 12hrs to cure* before applying the top coat. Thing is, the house has two entry doors and two garage doors finished in the stuff. The owner wants the garage doors refinished to match one of the entry doors that is still in good condition. I matched the color spot on but am hesitant to apply this stuff. Took a week of stripping and sanding. The garage doors are wood and western facing. Is there a better product? This stain set me back $300 for 4 gallons. I had to mix Dark Oak and Red Mahogany.



FYI Cetol 1&23 is _minimum _24 hours between coats. In my experience cetol/sikkens products are rather unforgiving regarding recoats specifications so best to stick to what it says in the TDS. SRD for example can't be recoated at all, big problems arise if you attempt to recoat SRD.


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