# Exterior RRP



## aaron61

Thought you guys might like to see this


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## NCPaint1

Too much work....put up new siding and be done with it


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## aaron61

It's still cheaper.You would also have to contain all the wood you remove. He compared our price to having new siding & went with us.


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## NCPaint1

aaron61 said:


> It's still cheaper.You would also have to contain all the wood you remove. He compared our price to having new siding & went with us.


 What if you just sided over it, would RRP still apply? Just curious.


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## RCP

NCPaint1 said:


> What if you just sided over it, would RRP still apply? Just curious.


RRP applies to work done on any pre 1978 building. You have to be certified to make the decisions and contract with the HO. 

If you sided it, the siding contractor would have to be RRP and follow precautions, but they would not be as extensive as what Aaron had to do. 
It is all about controlling the dust.

Now if it tested clear, no problem, but remember, you have to test all components on an exterior.


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## aaron61

It's really not much more than you would do on a restoration project anyway. These people,and most with older homes,want to keep the uniqueness.


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## PatsPainting

aaron - Just wondering if you are using the dust shield for that makita sander I see on that ladder. I just purchased both the 7" one and the 5" one from the paint shaver.com site. I used the 7" one for a job similar to yours. It's amazing on how little dust get out using it. Only draw back is its not as easy to do the featherin of the edges as it is with out the dust shield.

Anyway just was wondering if you were using that or not and what your opinion was.

Pat


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## aaron61

Weve been using these but I'm not reall happy with them. You still have vacuuming afterwards

http://dustlesstechnologies.com/dustbuddie.htm


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## PatsPainting

aaron61 said:


> Weve been using these but I'm not reall happy with them. You still have vacuuming afterwards
> 
> http://dustlesstechnologies.com/dustbuddie.htm



Does that work with the makita sanders? Looks only for the grinders. Here is what I have been using. again works great for large flat surfaces. But when you want to get finesse with the thing it sucks.

These are little more expensive - $139 for the 7" and $129 for the 5" one

Pat


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## aaron61

here are a couple of pics my guy sent me from his iphone


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## Dunbar Painting

he got overspray on the soffits? do you just spray and wash it off after?


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## aaron61

Na,dude we were just showing what the siding looks like after sanding & Peel Bond.
All soffits & fascias will be finish painted before the siding is finished.
I should have some video of the completed project next week.


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## Dunbar Painting

oh sorry, I thought those kind of soffits were typically unpainted.


I need to get peel bond, but I am not sure where it is carried in Canada


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## aaron61

Here is the completed project.We sanded,oil prime for tanin,peel bond,patch,spot prime & paint


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## PatsPainting

Nice freaking job as always :thumbsup:


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## hoz

Very nice job.


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## TJ Paint

it looks great.

Its easy to test for dust on an interior, how do you test for dust on an exterior? It looks like it wasn't breezy at all but I know sanding outside can, dust can travel quite a ways farther than ten feet. 

Also, did you wash the house? If so, how? I'd think you would need to after sanding. I guess you could just use a bunch of tack clothes...


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## CApainter

Nice job aaron.

After watching aaron's video I just realized I blew it on a lead job I recently did. Quick story:

The damaged area was an eight foot high by twenty five foot exterior wall. The wall was made of plain old plywood, with vertical battens covering the seams every four feet. The building, (shack actually), is probably fifty years old, and is located within our facility. No certification needed, just the SOP for the RSP (required safety practices).

The paint was peeling bad, very similar to the damage aaron posted, but plywood siding instead. I scraped a small section to see how it would come off, then decided to field test for lead using a test swab. Immediate magenta! No faint color on the swab. I'm talking pronounced magenta. I've done a lot of field tests and never had that immediate results.

I get the permit from health and safety and proceed. HEPA vac, tyvek, respirator, gloves, plastic, disposal, labeling, the whole nine yards. No grinding, or sanding. Pretty ugly, but no one cares. I'm just maintenance painting for the winter, and now managing the lead hazard on this shack.

OK, I'm late for work so I'll get to the point! I grabbed Peel Stop rather then Peel Bond, not knowing the difference because I've never used either one. As I was applying it I kept thinking, isn't this stuff suppose to be thicker? I just carried on with a couple top coats of an acrylic exterior paint. 

I realize now it could have looked a lot better had I used the right product.

Thanks for sharing your videos aaron.


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## cardwizzard

Aaron, 

Chimney looks great. What did you use on that?


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## aaron61

cardwizzard said:


> Aaron,
> 
> Chimney looks great. What did you use on that?


Super Paint!


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## dvp

nice job! mind sharing what you use for patching?


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## aaron61

@ about 1:46 you can see the wood filler sitting on the railings.


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## TJ Paint

i guess you don't want to disclose your intellectual capital, thats cool.


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## boman47k

I could have made the same mistake as was referred to earlier with confusing the two, Peel Boind and Peel Stop.

On some of the thicker old paint needing sanding anjd feathering, does the Peel Stop save some feathering time?

Thinking seriously about trying some on some wondows that don't seem to want to hold paint very well.


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## briancreary

*Looks great*

This is how I do restoration of siding here in Michigan. Only differences: I fill large voids with epoxy instead of wood patch. Zinnser doesn't fill so much as "glue," stuff down, it's 100% acrylic so I still like it on masonry. I do like Xim better on wood. Again looks great.


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## Dean CRCNA

On RRP exterior paint jobs, how do you guys wash the exterior? I ask this with the assumption that you don't pressure wash ... collect all the water and then filter it.

Do you use wipes? Sponges and garden hose? What?

Appreciate any insight.


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## aaron61

Ancient Chinese Secret!


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## DeanV

To be honest, they should make you catch the water from hand washing and rinsing as well to be consistent. 

Or they could just be reasonable and say to remove loose paint before powerwashing but heaven forbid the EPA be reasonable.


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## Dean CRCNA

a contractor I test for uses the swiffer wet wipes. Just found out today. Seems like over kill to me.


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## plainpainter

That's a typical house in New England - and don't dare call it a 'restoration' that might make it more expensive to paint!


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## DeanV

The wipes seem like a poor way to clean. I would want something with more suds and more rinsing. More agitating of dirt on the surface.


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## SWMich

I did an RRP exterior last summer and did all the scraping, striping and priming first. Less then 50% was left to wash and no paint chips to worry about. We washed by hand with a bucket brigade system. Had 4 rinse buckets and had my assistant take 2 dirty water pales at a time into the house, dump in their basement toilet, rinse out the sponges in the laundry sink and bring back warm water. What little water ended up on the plastic sheeting just evaporated. At the end of the day I washed the laundry sink.


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