# Gloss off and Cali Grip Coat.



## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Looked at a job today for which the last person that painted did not prime nor sand the undercaot which I am almost certain is oil. It is peelong in several places. I told her that I would not sand due to likely of there being lead (her 3 1/2 uear old grand daughter was running around when I was there). I did forget my lead tests, and actually believe now that it might be oil over poly or varnish (the rest of the trim is either)
However, even if it is not lead, I fear sanding might not work well...disturb any bond that might exsit, which might worsen once I topcoat with a latex paint after sanding. I have foind in the past that bodning issues display themselves the most after standard prep and the first coat is applied.
Is using Gloss Off, which I am not overly impressed with (still seems to be a lot of gloss left) and Grip Coat a good plan. Grip Coat is my go to bonding primer, but I have only used it when converting poly to paint.









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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I took a piece of old oil based gloss trim last week and without sanding it or cleaning it at all, applied one coat of advance in a spot, and one coat of Durapoxy in another. I tell you what, that durapoxy stuck as good as BIN immediately, and completely rock hard. The advance took a few days to cure, but its very hard to fingernail it off now. 

If you want to use a latex over an oil, Durapoxy is the way to go, hands down, no primer or sanding necessary (although I sand whenever possible anyway). Do you have Kelly Moores in your area? If so, pick up a quart and do a test.

I want to continue my testing, cuz I hear Scuff-X sticks like glue as well. It seems very much like Durapoxy, maybe even better.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> Looked at a job today for which the last person that painted did not prime nor sand the undercaot which I am almost certain is oil. It is peelong in several places. I told her that I would not sand due to likely of there being lead (her 3 1/2 uear old grand daughter was running around when I was there). I did forget my lead tests, and actually believe now that it might be oil over poly or varnish (the rest of the trim is either)
> However, even if it is not lead, I fear sanding might not work well...disturb any bond that might exsit, which might worsen once I topcoat with a latex paint after sanding. I have foind in the past that bodning issues display themselves the most after standard prep and the first coat is applied.
> Is using Gloss Off, which I am not overly impressed with (still seems to be a lot of gloss left) and Grip Coat a good plan. Grip Coat is my go to bonding primer, but I have only used it when converting poly to paint.
> 
> ...


What's on it now Pete? A latex of sorts I'm assuming. .

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Yes, a latex. 

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> What's on it now Pete? A latex of sorts I'm assuming. .
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


Yes, a latex.

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Woodco said:


> I took a piece of old oil based gloss trim last week and without sanding it or cleaning it at all, applied one coat of advance in a spot, and one coat of Durapoxy in another. I tell you what, that durapoxy stuck as good as BIN immediately, and completely rock hard. The advance took a few days to cure, but its very hard to fingernail it off now.
> 
> If you want to use a latex over an oil, Durapoxy is the way to go, hands down, no primer or sanding necessary (although I sand whenever possible anyway). Do you have Kelly Moores in your area? If so, pick up a quart and do a test.
> 
> I want to continue my testing, cuz I hear Scuff-X sticks like glue as well. It seems very much like Durapoxy, maybe even better.


The 2 paints I have easily avaible are BM and Cali. My BM store manager told me Scuff-X is really not meant for residential.

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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

If it's latex over oil I would use denatured alcohol to feather the edges of any chips / scuffing out before prime , top coating.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Thanks, I never thought of doing that before. It will give a much smoother looking finish.

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> The 2 paints I have easily avaible are BM and Cali. My BM store manager told me Scuff-X is really not meant for residential.
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk



Damn I better tell that customer who used 50 gallons scuffx matte in his house that it was for commercial use only!


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Damn I better tell that customer who used 50 gallons scuffx matte in his house that it was for commercial use only!


My point was that he really was not recommending it for residential. Your snide remark really does not convince me otherwise. I have been working with my BM manager for 6 years. I trust him. And, 99% of the time his advice is spot on. I do not know you. Perhaps you could explain why it is appropriate for a staircase. I really do not want to use something that I am unfamilar with if I have no real reason to expect it to work better than the paints that I already use. Just because someone used 50 of it in their house does not mean that it is appropriate. I have been told by more than one person that it cannot clean. Not a big selling point for me.

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> My point was that he really was not recommending it for residential. Your snide remark really does not convince me otherwise. I have been working with my BM manager for 6 years. I trust him. And, 99% of the time his advice is spot on. I do not know you. Perhaps you could explain why it is appropriate for a staircase. I really do not want to use something that I am unfamilar with if I have no real reason to expect it to work better than the paints that I already use. Just because someone used 50 of it in their house does not mean that it is appropriate. I have been told by more than one person that it cannot clean. Not a big selling point for me.
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk



It wasn't snide, BM doesn't 'recommend' Ultraspec500 and a large number of other paints for residential and HO use either. The exact wording is 'ideal for' commercial and hospitality, as in those are the high volume markets its targeted towards. That doesn't seem to stop anyone from using ultraspec in residential though.



I'm not recommending it yet as a trim paint but I can say that scuffx is being used in a lot of residential regardless of what the spec sheet says. 



Also the semi-gloss will be marketed as a trim paint with 'anti-chipping' technology.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

*Denatured Alcohol vs. De-Glosser to prep existing latex/acrylic*



Delta Painting said:


> If it's latex over oil I would use denatured alcohol to feather the edges of any chips / scuffing out before prime , top coating.


This might be the 1st time I've ever really disagreed with you. I would be hesitant to use Denatured Alcohol to feather sand existing acrylic finishes, since it actually dissolves latex & acrylic resins, compromising the integrity of the film. Although Liquid Sanding De-glossers typically contain some amount of alcohol, (isopropanol), they also contain Naptha, Mineral Spirits, Ethyl Acetate, Toluene, etc., all of which are solvents much safer to acrylics.

I would think the use of Denatured Alcohol for this purpose would create a gummy mess, but I could certainly be wrong, (and if I am, I call take-backs on everything I just said).


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Pete have you tried Cali Ultraplate? That stuff sticks to everything and dries rock hard. If I had a Cali dealer near me that's all I'd ever use on trim and cabinets. 

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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> This might be the 1st time I've ever really disagreed with you. I would be hesitant to use Denatured Alcohol to feather sand existing acrylic finishes, since it actually dissolves latex & acrylic resins, compromising the integrity of the film. Although Liquid Sanding De-glossers typically contain some amount of alcohol, (isopropanol), they also contain Naptha, Mineral Spirits, Ethyl Acetate, Toluene, etc., all of which are solvents much safer to acrylics.
> 
> I would think the use of Denatured Alcohol for this purpose would create a gummy mess, but I could certainly be wrong, (and if I am, I call take-backs on everything I just said).



That's a valid concern but the existing finish is latex over oil that I am sure is not sticking very well anyway. The denatured will gum up the old latex coating a bit reactivating the old work so to speak. If you are priming then 2 finish coats I would think it's gonna bite better than whats on it now.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Pete have you tried Cali Ultraplate? That stuff sticks to everything and dries rock hard. If I had a Cali dealer near me that's all I'd ever use on trim and cabinets.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes, I have used it, and like it a lot. But, have only used it on cabinets and shelves. I thought about using it on this job. Do you think I could avoid using the bonding primer if I used it?

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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> Yes, I have used it, and like it a lot. But, have only used it on cabinets and shelves. I thought about using it on this job. Do you think I could avoid using the bonding primer if I used it?
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


I'd say BIN and coverstain are the only things in the same league as Ultraplate when it comes to adhesion. Throw in the older formula Breakthrough which I don't think is available in your area. I'd feel safer with straight Ultraplate rather than any latex adhesion primer I've used. 

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I'd say BIN and coverstain are the only things in the same league as Ultraplate when it comes to adhesion. Throw in the older formula Breakthrough which I don't think is available in your area. I'd feel safer with straight Ultraplate rather than any latex adhesion primer I've used.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Have you tried Durapoxy? I dont have Cali where Im from, so I cant make the comparison.

But yeah, certain paints eliminate the need for bonding primers in this situation. Especially, if theres latex on the topcoat now. I dont trust these paints over old finish coats, but even the stick to old oil paints fine.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> The 2 paints I have easily avaible are BM and Cali. My BM store manager told me Scuff-X is really not meant for residential.
> 
> Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


Scuffx is just perfect in a residential setting and likely the perfect solution to your issue imo.

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

If it's already an acrylic you can skip the binding primer. Use something that has a longer open time so you can tackle those spindles if your a one man show. We recently used advanced high gloss on something very similar and it turned out nice. Your scenario is comparable to painting a 100 year old exterior clapboard sided house. No matter what product you use, it will only bond as well as whatever is under it. I would just use the gloss off/cleaner and follow with a quick clean water rinse and off to the races with you finish paint.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Woodco said:


> Have you tried Durapoxy? I dont have Cali where Im from, so I cant make the comparison.
> 
> But yeah, certain paints eliminate the need for bonding primers in this situation. Especially, if theres latex on the topcoat now. I dont trust these paints over old finish coats, but even the stick to old oil paints fine.


No I can't get Kelly Moore here. I can't really even get Cali I have a hardware store up in New Hampshire ship it down to me. 

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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

jr.sr. painting said:


> If it's already an acrylic you can skip the binding primer. Use something that has a longer open time so you can tackle those spindles if your a one man show. We recently used advanced high gloss on something very similar and it turned out nice. Your scenario is comparable to painting a 100 year old exterior clapboard sided house. No matter what product you use, it will only bond as well as whatever is under it. I would just use the gloss off/cleaner and follow with a quick clean water rinse and off to the races with you finish paint.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do agree with most of this except the gloss off....honestly, I'd be testing scuffx on a door or ? I'm sure itll be just fine driving straight over whatever latex product is on there with no need to be concerned with the bond between the 2 latex products.
There is already a bonding issue. No latex you throw on it is going to fix it or make it worse but the more you mess with the existing fragile coating, the harder you make your job. Getting it wet may well cause it to delaminate from the existing coating. I'd be very hesitant. 
Pete, you've come a long way and I know I integrity is a strong part of your character. I think this is just one (of probably many more to come) situation where ya just gotta test it and go for it.....knowing the result wont be as perfect as you'd prefer. Make sure the ho knows the only real solution is removal anything other than that is a bandaid that will need maintenance (aka job security for you....start talking to them about annual or biannual visits to keep their investment in the best condition and make it last longer). 
Just a few thoughts to ponder.  happy painting!

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

lilpaintchic said:


> I do agree with most of this except the gloss off....honestly, I'd be testing scuffx on a door or ? I'm sure itll be just fine driving straight over whatever latex product is on there with no need to be concerned with the bond between the 2 latex products.
> There is already a bonding issue. No latex you throw on it is going to fix it or make it worse but the more you mess with the existing fragile coating, the harder you make your job. Getting it wet may well cause it to delaminate from the existing coating. I'd be very hesitant.
> Pete, you've come a long way and I know I integrity is a strong part of your character. I think this is just one (of probably many more to come) situation where ya just gotta test it and go for it.....knowing the result wont be as perfect as you'd prefer. Make sure the ho knows the only real solution is removal anything other than that is a bandaid that will need maintenance (aka job security for you....start talking to them about annual or biannual visits to keep their investment in the best condition and make it last longer).
> Just a few thoughts to ponder.  happy painting!
> ...


Do you really think the Gloss off will cause that much of an isssue. The reason that I want to do it is because there is a high gloss on there now, and I do not want issues with the new coat bonding with the latex.
I did already tell them that the only way to ensure that there will no issues with the bond in the future is to remove all the paint on the railing.
I am not overly concerned with the spindals.


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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Ok, this is more of a general question. If I were to test the paint and it was not lead I could sand. My question is, with the fact that the oil was not primed, is it wise to sand. My intuition tells me no, because it will disturb any bond that might exist, which will be made worse when I apply wet paint.
Many of the issues that I have run into with adhesion of existing paints have been discivovered after the new coat of paint is applied...this is when the bubbling and lifting have occured in most cases.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> Do you really think the Gloss off will cause that much of an isssue. The reason that I want to do it is because there is a high gloss on there now, and I do not want issues with the new coat bonding with the latex.
> I did already tell them that the only way to ensure that there will no issues with the bond in the future is to remove all the paint on the railing.
> I am not overly concerned with the spindals.
> 
> ...


You gotta test it out....Just be aware. What's the worst that can happen? Your latex falls off latex thats falling off? None of it is just gonna fall off. But your coat is only as good as what's under it.

There are many great products to choose from that will have the tenacity you're looking for. You gotta trust your paint to do its job. Lots of good options offered here and I think you'll be surprised at how well they perform with minimal prep.
To be honest, as much as I hate to admit it, I picked up a sample container of a Behr premium plus color that was on the mis tints rack at HD the other day. It was the perfect turquoise for a tabel project of mine....shabby chic/farmhouse is all the rage here. Anyway, I didn't prep anything. Just drove straight over the existing clear (probably a lacquer
..who knows) and was extremely impressed with the bond on that product.

That's the competition. The other products mentioned are 10x better than anything behr has to offer. Just test your process. Bid it out to degloss but test it with and without. Save yourself a headache, a d maybe save the ho a couple bucks or make a bit more in profit. 

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Are you thinking about hand sanding or using an orbital. You might want to think about using a scotchbrite type of sand paper. This should put least amount of stress on the existing coating while giving it a little tooth. 

If this causes issues than you’ll probably want to remove the old coating.

Or wipe everything down with denatured alcohol. This should do a better job than glossoff anyways.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Wait a minute....is it just the handrail pictured that you're painting? I thought there was a house full of trim....now I'm not so sure.

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

lilpaintchic said:


> Scuffx is just perfect in a residential setting and likely the perfect solution to your issue imo.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


The issue with ScuffX is that is too new to know how it holds up longterm. Now they are finding issues with Breakthrough failing due to repeated cleaning. They're worried about scuffX doing the same thing.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Use Bins shellac primer or Inslx Stix. Both will work well.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Woodco said:


> The issue with ScuffX is that is too new to know how it holds up longterm. Now they are finding issues with Breakthrough failing due to repeated cleaning. They're worried about scuffX doing the same thing.


Who's finding issues with breakthrough, new or old formula? 

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I dont know, it might just be a rumor. I read it somewhere though.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Woodco said:


> I dont know, it might just be a rumor. I read it somewhere though.


I kind of agree with woodco. A lot of people have been talking about using Scuffx on cabinets and railings etc. Although it seems like a miracle cure, they don't market this stuff
as a trim paint. I really do wonder how it will hold up.. I'm yet to try it myself, but really was considering it for trim on my next job.. 

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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Ultraplate no primer, unless you need to sand to smooth the profile. Other than that it will stick to a clean surface better than any "bonding" primer on the market. Remember UMA? Better than that. Gripcoat is just the same resin package as Ultraplate made into a primer. Unless you need to sand the prime i don't recommend it. I have a pretty extensive selection of "bonding" primer/substrate test panels available for review if someone where so inclined. The Ultraplate works so well by itself that i have an incredibly difficult time getting painters to believe it, even the painters who have been using it for a couple of years.


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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I kind of agree with woodco. A lot of people have been talking about using Scuffx on cabinets and railings etc. Although it seems like a miracle cure, they don't market this stuff
> as a trim paint. I really do wonder how it will hold up.. I'm yet to try it myself, but really was considering it for trim on my next job..
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


Completely agree. Scuff X is not marketed nor recommended by BM for cabinets. Besides if it was formulated as an outstanding product to be used on cabinets, I'm sure it wouldn't have been released in a contractor grade line of paint.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I kind of agree with woodco. A lot of people have been talking about using Scuffx on cabinets and railings etc. Although it seems like a miracle cure, they don't market this stuff
> as a trim paint. I really do wonder how it will hold up.. I'm yet to try it myself, but really was considering it for trim on my next job..
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


Itll hold up 10x better than proclassic latex. THAT I'm sure of. Will it break down with repeated scrubbing? Yes, all acrylics will eventually. I agree it probably shouldn't be a cabinet paint but its definitely a good alternative to advance for those of us who need the attributes of a trim paint that it has to offer and its 10x better than the competition's offering at a similar price point. 
If ya need the bucket to specifically say "trim" on it then grab a sharpie and write it on there!!

Jk....seriously though..try it on 1 project and you'll see. AND it comes in deep bases.

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

loaded brush said:


> Completely agree. Scuff X is not marketed nor recommended by BM for cabinets. Besides if it was formulated as an outstanding product to be used on cabinets, I'm sure it wouldn't have been released in a contractor grade line of paint.



BM has has a lot of success with Scuff-X. Just because it’s marketed a certain way, doesn’t mean it can’t have alternative uses.

Others can correct me if I’m wrong, but SW Promar 200 is the industry standard for interior commercial wall paint. Rather than trying to compete in the race to the bottom in that market, I’m guessing BM thought it would be a better strategy to create a new market segment with better margins (I’m assuming the margins for Scuff-X are better). I believe that’s what they’re doing with Scuff-X and it seems to me working.




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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

lilpaintchic said:


> Itll hold up 10x better than proclassic latex. THAT I'm sure of. Will it break down with repeated scrubbing? Yes, all acrylics will eventually. I agree it probably shouldn't be a cabinet paint but its definitely a good alternative to advance for those of us who need the attributes of a trim paint that it has to offer and its 10x better than the competition's offering at a similar price point.
> *If ya need the bucket to specifically say "trim" *on it then grab a sharpie and write it on there!!
> 
> Jk....seriously though..try it on 1 project and you'll see. AND it comes in deep bases.
> ...


 Wait no longer...
"http://www2.benjaminmoore.com/DownloadBinaryServletTDS?np=productcatalog_datasheets/tds/TDS_0487&fileName=20181108%20487%20TDS%20US.pdf&propertyName=multidatasheet[0].data_sheet_file_en_US"


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Wait no longer...
> "http://www2.benjaminmoore.com/DownloadBinaryServletTDS?np=productcatalog_datasheets/tds/TDS_0487&fileName=20181108%20487%20TDS%20US.pdf&propertyName=multidatasheet[0].data_sheet_file_en_US"


Ta daaaaaaa!

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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Cool. It is also a possibility that the reason they dont reccomend scuff-x for trim and cabinetry is because they want people to buy advance and cabinet coat. Thats just simple marketing.

Another example is dry erase paint. The Idea Paint is close to $400 a gallon to sell. However, at PPG, PSX700 is $200 and works every bit as good for dry erase, but they arent allowed to tell people that so they can sell the ideapaint.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Woodco said:


> Cool.* It is also a possibility that the reason they dont reccomend scuff-x for trim and cabinetry is because they want people to buy advance and cabinet coat.* ...



I believe that's why that Sk5000 is under the coronado label. If it was ultraspec it would bite into the advance too much. Interesting that BM brings new CC tint bases, scuffx, sk5000 all around the same time. I heard there is another product in the pipe too that competes with a certain _other _prominent trim paint... don't know much about it though.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Woodco said:


> Cool. It is also a possibility that the reason they dont reccomend scuff-x for trim and cabinetry is because they want people to buy advance and cabinet coat. Thats just simple marketing.
> 
> Another example is dry erase paint. The Idea Paint is close to $400 a gallon to sell. However, at PPG, PSX700 is $200 and works every bit as good for dry erase, but they arent allowed to tell people that so they can sell the ideapaint.


Bingo.

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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

Woodco said:


> Cool. It is also a possibility that the reason they dont reccomend scuff-x for trim and cabinetry is because they want people to buy advance and cabinet coat. Thats just simple marketing.
> 
> Another example is dry erase paint. The Idea Paint is close to $400 a gallon to sell. However, at PPG, PSX700 is $200 and works every bit as good for dry erase, but they arent allowed to tell people that so they can sell the ideapaint.


Per my email exchange with Benjamin Moore, BM does not recommend Scuff X for cabinetry due to the facts that SX is not as hard of a finish to withstand years of use and abuse like Advance and CC, is not as stain releasing as Advance and CC, which when dealing with common everyday kitchen food and grime stains, SX will not clean up as well or as easily as Advance or CC. 
Its main characteristic is the scuff resistant feature created for the commercial venue regarding scuffs, from shoes, furniture, carts and so on.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

loaded brush said:


> Per my email exchange with Benjamin Moore, BM does not recommend Scuff X for cabinetry due to the facts that SX is not as hard of a finish to withstand years of use and abuse like Advance and CC, is not as stain releasing as Advance and CC, which when dealing with common everyday kitchen food and grime stains, SX will not clean up as well or as easily as Advance or CC.
> Its main characteristic is the scuff resistant feature created for the commercial venue regarding scuffs, from shoes, furniture, carts and so on.


Ok. But have you ever actually used it on trim?
I think we can all agree that advance is the better on cabs and trim for many reasons. The jury is out on cc around here as it marks easily I guess...never used it, no experience other than what I read. However there things about advance that make it unattractive. A long recoat being one of those things. I'd rather just shoot conversion varnish on cabs at that point. That's the cat's meow and it's easy to work with. But scuffx is a contender imo as a fantastic trim paint option. If you actually open a bucket on 1 job you'll see why for yourself. Just love that product after many years of using PC...soooo much nicer in every way.

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## loaded brush (Dec 27, 2007)

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I agree it could turn out to be a good trim paint. My only reservations would be for use on cabinets. Understandably, all cabinet products have their own issues, but lack of clean ability should not be one of them. I guess as with any new product, only time will tell.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Does anyone think scuff-x would be WORSE to put on cabinets than a regular latex enamel?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Woodco said:


> Does anyone think scuff-x would be WORSE to put on cabinets than a regular latex enamel?


I don't think it would be worse I'd just rather stick with something meant for cabinets. 

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

So, here is the end result. I did test for lead...negative. So, I gave everthing a good sanding. I used one of the Fesstool 2 sided sanded sponge 220 grit...the thin square ones. I used Cali grip coat on the stairs, skirts, and railing. No primer on spindles, unless raw wood present. The white is Ultraplate, the railing is BM Cabinet Coat, and the treads are BM floor and Patio. This was the first time that I used Cabinet Coat, and I liked it a lot. Very easy to work with.

P.S. despite no prime, and some sheen left, even with a good sanding, the Ultraplate stuck to the spindles really well. I tired to scratch it off with my fingernail, but was unable.










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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Pete Martin the Painter said:


> So, here is the end result. I did test for lead...negative. So, I gave everthing a good sanding. I used one of the Fesstool 2 sided sanded sponge 220 grit...the thin square ones. I used Cali grip coat on the stairs, skirts, and railing. No primer on spindles, unless raw wood present. The white is Ultraplate, the railing is BM Cabinet Coat, and the treads are BM floor and Patio. This was the first time that I used Cabinet Coat, and I liked it a lot. Very easy to work with.
> 
> P.S. despite no prime, and some sheen left, even with a good sanding, the Ultraplate stuck to the spindles really well. I tired to scratch it off with my fingernail, but was unable.
> 
> ...


Out of curiosity, why didn't you stick with Ultraplate for the hand rails? From what I've seen it's better product than cabinet coat. 

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## Pete Martin the Painter (Nov 8, 2012)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Out of curiosity, why didn't you stick with Ultraplate for the hand rails? From what I've seen it's better product than cabinet coat.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


You cannot get in dark colors. Only pastels. I would have preferred to have used it.

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