# Exterior Wash Recipe



## cardgunner

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Downstreaming out of a 5 gallon bucket, 2 gallons of 12.5% Bleach, 2 gallons H20, 4 oz Elemonator, 4 oz Cling-On, Roof Snot, or other bleach-stable surfactant. Ratios will vary depending upon condition of structure, weather, the freshness/strength of bleach, injector used, & amount of hose in the system, (usually 150'-200' on the 1st hose reel).


Thoughts on whether I could substitute Sodium Percarbonate (OxyClean) for the bleach? 

This would be good for house and deck correct?

After I would use brightner (Oxalic Acid) to correct the PH balance.


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## Holland

cardgunner said:


> Thoughts on whether I could substitute Sodium Percarbonate (OxyClean) for the bleach?
> 
> This would be good for house and deck correct?
> 
> After I would use brightner (Oxalic Acid) to correct the PH balance.


I'm not sure about OxyClean in particular (not a chemist), but I do know you have to be careful _if _you *mix* an acid and base (Mustard Gas - toxic, potentially lethal). 

Doesn't sounds as if that is exactly what you are trying to do, but worth mentioning nonetheless. 

What would be wrong with a mild bleach/water (maybe Jomax) for your initial cleaner sprayed downstream with your PW? Just trying to get all the facts.

Rinsing with clean water would likely dilute the surface enough. Why would you have to correct the balance? What are your concerns here?


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## cardgunner

I don't like bleach becasue if I spill it (which I do) it destroys cloths and plants, and etc. Oxly clean does not. I have been told on numerous occasions that you need to brightening after you "bleach' for the paint/stain to adhere properly.


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## Holland

cardgunner said:


> I don't like bleach becasue if I spill it (which I do) it destroys cloths and plants, and etc. Oxly clean does not. I have been told on numerous occasions that you need to brightening after you "bleach' for the paint/stain to adhere properly.


*As a note Jomax bleach additive “claims“ to neutralize alkalinity to safe levels for plant life. I have never knowingly killed any plant life due to spillage, but then again I’m pretty careful to thoroughly soak the area before and after.

I understand the concerns that bleach can weaken fabrics. It is my understanding that it is only natural fabrics, which are already susceptible to UV degradation.


I don’t worry about wood personally, because I pre-soak and rinse.

Bleach is a known entity. It works to kill surface mildew (although some will always take a contrary view) and it is readily available. 

Question: is the wood brightener needed because you want to use a semi-transparent product?


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## finishesbykevyn

It also depends how much mildew is present. If minimal, than bleach is unneccesary. You could also use vinegar as a less toxic option. Or, yes, OXY Clean for sure. I usually just fill a garden pump sprayer with bleach and tag the heavy mildew spots first, than a mild soap solution for the rest.


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## PNW Painter

Personally, I think the goals of a deck/stain vs house wash are a little different. With a house you’re trying to clean the surface in addition to killing mildew, algae, mold etc... I’ve had excellent results using bleach with eLemonator. Depending on your pressure washer you’ll have to figure out the right ratio.

https://pressuretek.com/elemonator/

With stains you have to consider the wood or the old stain and then choose from products such as cleaners, strippers and neutralizers depending on your goals. 

I’ve had good luck with Storm Systems products for stain prep.

https://www.stormsystem.com/products/prep-maintenance/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

*Sodium Percarbonate*



cardgunner said:


> Thoughts on whether I could substitute Sodium Percarbonate (OxyClean) for the bleach?
> 
> This would be good for house and deck correct?
> 
> After I would use brightner (Oxalic Acid) to correct the PH balance.


Sodium Percarbonate in stronger concentrations are effective on decks and wood to be stained if you have hot water to mix it, if you don't mind having to hit various spots multiple times, and if you can stand waiting the 15-20 minute dwell times for it to be effective. Sodium Percarbonate typically needs to be applied directly via sprayer, since the powder must be diluted with hot water and aggressively mixed to stay in suspension, and if you were to let that bucket sit or the water cool, the powder falls out of suspension. 
Even more importantly is that if you further reduce the mix by trying to downstream it, you're weakening it by a factor of approx 10:1, the ratio at which most downstream injectors pull from. Problem is, you can't ramp up the mix initially to compensate for the reduction in strength when downstreaming, since only so much powder will stay in suspension with the water. 

I've never used OxyClean, but I understand it's basically just a Sodium Percarb in lesser concentrations. I've also never used Sodium Percarbonate for a house wash mix. It's just not the right tool for the job.


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## Holland

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Sodium Percarbonate in stronger concentrations are effective on decks and wood to be stained if you have hot water to mix it, if you don't mind having to hit various spots multiple times, and if you can stand waiting the 15-20 minute dwell times for it to be effective. Sodium Percarbonate typically needs to be applied directly via sprayer, since the powder must be diluted with hot water and aggressively mixed to stay in suspension, and if you were to let that bucket sit or the water cool, the powder falls out of suspension.
> Even more importantly is that if you further reduce the mix by trying to downstream it, you're weakening it by a factor of approx 10:1, the ratio at which most downstream injectors pull from. Problem is, you can't ramp up the mix initially to compensate for the reduction in strength when downstreaming, since only so much powder will stay in suspension with the water.
> 
> I've never used OxyClean, but I understand it's basically just a Sodium Percarb in lesser concentrations. I've also never used Sodium Percarbonate for a house wash mix. It's just not the right tool for the job.


I only use liquid mixes though my PW, as powders tend to have problems dissolving (as you alluded to, especially in cold water) and inevitably junks up the lines, screens, nozzles.


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## cardgunner

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Sodium Percarbonate in stronger concentrations are effective on decks and wood to be stained if you have hot water to mix it, if you don't mind having to hit various spots multiple times, and if you can stand waiting the 15-20 minute dwell times for it to be effective. Sodium Percarbonate typically needs to be applied directly via sprayer, since the powder must be diluted with hot water and aggressively mixed to stay in suspension, and if you were to let that bucket sit or the water cool, the powder falls out of suspension.
> Even more importantly is that if you further reduce the mix by trying to downstream it, you're weakening it by a factor of approx 10:1, the ratio at which most downstream injectors pull from. Problem is, you can't ramp up the mix initially to compensate for the reduction in strength when downstreaming, since only so much powder will stay in suspension with the water.
> 
> I've never used OxyClean, but I understand it's basically just a Sodium Percarb in lesser concentrations. I've also never used Sodium Percarbonate for a house wash mix. It's just not the right tool for the job.


Great info because I have had issues with the sp not staying in suspension. And I typically spray it thru a sprayer and not downstream. Buying a new Ryobi power spray to aide in this. Given your previous recipe is that too strong to spray thru a sprayer. I like the control a sprayer gives me. It just makes me nervous spraying bleach around things. Like lawn furniture and such. I do my best to move them out of the way however it's never guaranteed where the spray will go. Using your original recipe have you had issue bleaching out your clothes or ruining customer stuff. Bleaching things that you didn't want bleached?


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## Holland

cardgunner said:


> Great info because I have had issues with the sp not staying in suspension. And I typically spray it thru a sprayer and not downstream. Buying a new Ryobi power spray to aide in this. Given your previous recipe is that too strong to spray thru a sprayer. I like the control a sprayer gives me. It just makes me nervous spraying bleach around things. Like lawn furniture and such. I do my best to move them out of the way however it's never guaranteed where the spray will go. Using your original recipe have you had issue bleaching out your clothes or ruining customer stuff. Bleaching things that you didn't want bleached?


Bleach will not affect synthetics, as they are generally a form of plastic filament (polyester, nylon, etc...). For the most part outdoor furniture is synthetic. Doesn't hurt to move them when spraying anyways, but a little bleach water usually won't affect them at all. 

You should be careful with natural fibers (cotton hammocks, jute rugs, etc...). 


Most of my rain gear for spraying is Nylon and have been using them for years with bleach- they are mostly the same color, with minor fading on shoulders probably from sun.


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

cardgunner said:


> Great info because I have had issues with the sp not staying in suspension. And I typically spray it thru a sprayer and not downstream. Buying a new Ryobi power spray to aide in this. Given your previous recipe is that too strong to spray thru a sprayer. I like the control a sprayer gives me. It just makes me nervous spraying bleach around things. Like lawn furniture and such. I do my best to move them out of the way however it's never guaranteed where the spray will go. Using your original recipe have you had issue bleaching out your clothes or ruining customer stuff. Bleaching things that you didn't want bleached?


Yes, I've ruined plenty of my own clothes, but that's mostly when roof cleaning, where I'm using 30-50 gallons of mix per home. I've never ruined anything from one of my customer's homes, but I have had unwanted bleach mist drift on a fence I hadn't intended to wash. The key to not damaging anything is to pre-wet, keep wet, and rinse twice as long as you think you need to. A saturated surface will have a much harder time being affected by bleach or other chems as long as it's soaked first, not allowed to dry, and rinsed real well. In the case of the fence, I had pre-soaked it multiple times with water, but it was in August and the wood dried before the mix hit it. I just reduced the mix more and hit the entire fence, then rinsed it off. Customer got a free fence cleaning and I got out of a jam.

On a side note, never use a backpack sprayer to spray chems. Go on any pressure washing or roof cleaning forum and you'll hear horror stories of guys who tried and ended up with severe burns down their backside. Most of those sprayers weren't designed to spray chems, so it's just a matter of time before the seals fail. When you're wearing that sprayer on your back, you won't have any warning before it burns your skin.


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## cardgunner

So I looked to find 12% Bleach. Where name brand Clorox only is 6% sodium hypochlorite. So do I add twice as much? so 4 gallons at 6% and 2 gallons water or do I buy expensive Bleach. $33 per gallon!!!


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## Holland

cardgunner said:


> So I looked to find 12% Bleach. Where name brand Clorox only is 6% sodium hypochlorite. So do I add twice as much? so 4 gallons at 6% and 2 gallons water or do I buy expensive Bleach. $33 per gallon!!!


Why buy expensive bleach when it will be diluted anyway? 

Bleach needs to be diluted: 10/1 is mild, 2/1 is very strong. 
You might be over-thinking it.


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## stelzerpaintinginc.

cardgunner said:


> So I looked to find 12% Bleach. Where name brand Clorox only is 6% sodium hypochlorite. So do I add twice as much? so 4 gallons at 6% and 2 gallons water or do I buy expensive Bleach. $33 per gallon!!!


I get 55 gallon drums of 12.5% bleach at Univar. Many states have a Univar or a Brenntag, 2 of the biggest wholesale chem suppliers in the nation. I agree with Holland though, if all you're needing is a few gallons, no reason to seek out 12%. Home Depot carries outdoor bleach at 8.25%. Many Walmarts offer liquid pool shock at 10%. Most outdoor surfaces can be cleaned with 1% bleach, so it all gets reduced anyways. I only get the 55 gallon drums in roof cleaning season, when it's not uncommon to go through 150-200 gallons/week.


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## MelTon55

bigger projects = higher concentration around 12-12.5% will do. for smaller jobs, diluting to 2-8 v/v % always works


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## cleaningguy

great job pointing out


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## paintwrapping

If you can get away with it, baking soda and water does work well but it really depends on the size of the job. Some areas require stronger chemicals. I am not a fan of bleach myself.


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## Holland

michealshawn said:


> I don't like bleach because if I spill it (which I do) it destroys cloths and plants, and etc. It is very dangerous thing/ I don't use this


Danger is my middle name.


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## MidwestPaintingServices

MelTon55 said:


> bigger projects = higher concentration around 12-12.5% will do. for smaller jobs, diluting to 2-8 v/v % always works


Agree with MelTon55


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