# New cmu in an interior pool area



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

(To be clear,it's the enclosure area surrounding the pool. It's a community pool. And it's HUGE.) I have a few ideas on how to prep the cmu for paint but I wanna know how you guys do it. And which products. Thanks in advance!


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

I would pressure wash the concrete, prime, then apply my top coats. Probably epoxies because of all the stuff from inside the pool, but the GC should have something spec'd


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Clean all block of any mortar or grout. New CMU should not have any efflorescence but if it does clean it accordingly. 

I have worked in Bellingham so your probably familiar with Rodda Paints. 1st coat Sprayable Block Filler, 2nd & 3rd Ultimate II or product comparable.

I don't think you'll have to point or repoint any of the joints but make sure not to seal any of the weep holes. Weep holes ensure proper draining.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Scrape off any excess mortar and apply 2 coats Coronado Texcrete.


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## racx (May 2, 2015)

New? How long has the cmu been cured?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I've seen these spec'd for a block filler also, followed by a couple of coats of either epoxy, for serious chemical splash zones, or single component waterborne industrial enamels like PPG PTP for commercial use. I recall sonneborn paints having a coating system for Block walls.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Thanks guys. My husband is a Hod Carrier on this job. His boss told them to "get it ready for paint". He asked me how far he was supposed to go and I told him what I thought about it...I haven't dealt with new cmu in years and even then it was just some minor repairs on a bank. I was thinking pressurewash maybe...wasn't sure if an acid wash was overkill or not. But my concern was whether or not it's even necessary. And whether or
not that's the "norm". Didn't want to hose it down (as it is porous and probably won't dry very quickly in this weather) and risk trapping water under the block filler....am I over thinking it? Trying to figure out what the painters are expecting on this. I was thinking epoxy as well..no idea what the spec is on it.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

racx said:


> New? How long has the cmu been cured?


They just finished grout last week


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

lilpaintchic said:


> Thanks guys. My husband is a Hod Carrier on this job. His boss told them to "get it ready for paint". He asked me how far he was supposed to go and I told him what I thought about it...I haven't dealt with new cmu in years and even then it was just some minor repairs on a bank. I was thinking pressurewash maybe...wasn't sure if an acid wash was overkill or not. But my concern was whether or not it's even necessary. And whether or
> not that's the "norm". Didn't want to hose it down (as it is porous and probably won't dry very quickly in this weather) and risk trapping water under the block filler....am I over thinking it? Trying to figure out what the painters are expecting on this. I was thinking epoxy as well..no idea what the spec is on it.


I know best practices recommend washing any surface prior to applying a coating. But if the walls to be painted are interior and there are issues with electrical outlets, flooring, etc., I would be inclined to just dust it, or blow it down, then apply the block filler. I would think a dry surface would be better than a moist surface.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

That's my gut feeling as well...I told him to ask his boss for clarification on his version of "get it ready for paint". I guess I'm just more curious than anything at this point. I know they're not anywhere near ready for electrical or finishes other than a color coat or ?? On the cmu. They'll probably have miles of conduit and crap to deal with later.Pools finally cemented, I just imagine a very light wash at most considering how dirty the site likely is...I dunno. I've never seen it. Anyway, thanks for the guidance guys. It's somebody else's problem.lol


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Waterborne Epoxy Block Filler at least 8' up on walls. Regular single component block fillers are cheap and have hydrophilic pigments that eventually absorb moisture and expand. Two coats of an acrylic Epoxy will provide durability waste your assistance and not Amber or yellow. If there is any structural steel that is bear or has a shop coat primer on it I would consider an Epoxy mastic as a primer and then an acrylic DTM as a finish. If odor is an issue then consider a Epoxy preprime on the structural steel and then a DTM acrylic


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

Naaah no powerwash or nothing of that sort
The brickies will turn it over when they 'rub it down' . He'll rub this, block really with a handle, over it. Smooths it out you know gets all the jags off of it. And that's it really. 
If I'm following him that's all I expect. And for him to say 'it's ready'


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

It looks like this, what they rub it down with, but it's not this. Where this has a sponge the tool they use is a block or something. Some kinda stone on that kinda handle. They just rub it in a circle kinda. Smooth off that gritty crap, pretty easy job I think in the spectrum of block work.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Gotcha. Thanks oden! I had a feeling I would over think it a bit..or a lot.lol


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## pacific paint (Nov 21, 2015)

Use caution in the seattle area they aren't exactly pool experts let them tell you what products to use then follow the mfg instructions for surface prep also if they don't have the right size de humidifier for the structure you will see a failure I've seen many failures in Seattle, Tacoma area sports clubs,private homes etc. due to wrong products and small de humidiers they are very expensive and tend purchase to small ones once they have a failure and need a larger unit the walls need blasting and a larger de humidifier costs are stagering and they don't want their pool down for an extended period


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## pacific paint (Nov 21, 2015)

sorry I might have misunderstood is this pool enclosed or is it some sort of walls surrounding the pool ? If they are just walls you don't need block filler there will be no hydrostatic pressure involved if water permeates the block paint 2 coats 100% acrylic and backroll


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## pacific paint (Nov 21, 2015)

sorry I just realized your not the painter on the job


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

pacific paint said:


> sorry I might have misunderstood is this pool enclosed or is it some sort of walls surrounding the pool ? If they are just walls you don't need block filler there will be no hydrostatic pressure involved if water permeates the block paint 2 coats 100% acrylic and backroll


You should always use a heavy duty block filler or an epoxy block filler in wet areas. You should always use a quality block filler period. Blocks looks horrible if you don't. On another post where the block only set for a week, you should not blockfill and paint at that point. Block should be cured 28 days. You can spend more money on a loxon primer from sw or permacrete primer from ppg if you need to paint within 7-10 days. In that case, the general should pay the extra money.


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