# Portable Spray Booth for Kitchen Cabinets



## Custom Brush Co.

Finally getting down my system for spraying kitchen cabinets on location in a small area... I've painted 12 years & never seen or heard of such an arrangement. This is a by product of constantly working out potential causes for creating touch ups or a complete redo because of bad preparation/spray technique... 

The racks erect & come apart as you spray so you're always taking from or stacking on the top.

The fans exhaust out with a filter before to catch overspray. I have this many fans to keep all overspay off my racks. Cardboard keeps plastic from sucking in to my racks & spray booth.

Hope these pics help you out in your own endeavors...


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## straight_lines

Is that spray table a downdraft? Nice little set up btw.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Yes it is. Made from cardboard box's & 20"x20" box fan. 

I'll post more pics soon... As the project moves foreword.


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## Wolfgang

That's a nice, innovative set-up you've got going there. How often do you have to change the filter on the spray table?


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## 6126

Thats very impressive


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## Westview

this is f-ing awesome


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## Westview

can you explain what the fan does....


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## Custom Brush Co.

Westview said:


> can you explain what the fan does....


The fans suck out the overspay & the filters prevent the paint from going through the fan. This way your tiny both booth keeps paint from floating to your finished stack of cabinet doors. I'm spraying 24 doors in a dinning room here. I made a couple minor changes to the spray side of this booth to prevent overspay from getting on me.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Wolfgang said:


> That's a nice, innovative set-up you've got going there. How often do you have to change the filter on the spray table?


Only once per job. I changed this one to add a vacume filter as a platform for holding doors.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Here are some more pics of the project. We're using PPG Breakthrough here. These pics are of the 1st coat. Since they don't make a semi-gloss (they better soon!) I mix satin & gloss 1to1. Here the racks are taken down. Plus for fun a pic of putting all 24 doors in one spot.


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## Xmark

I don't get that setup. why is there a filter on the cardboard box? and what is that circular filter for? do you have a vacuum suction inside the box? is it a turntable or just a stationary spray area? i understand the concept of the fans and filter in the window sucking out the overspray.


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## Damon T

Great thread Custom! Is that rack just PVC tubing and fittings with tape on top to keep from sticking? This is the kind of thread that makes this site valuable. I mean so does all the behr bashing and SW hating, but this is good stuff! Thanks !


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## MikeCalifornia

Xmark said:


> I don't get that setup. why is there a filter on the cardboard box? and what is that circular filter for? do you have a vacuum suction inside the box? is it a turntable or just a stationary spray area? i understand the concept of the fans and filter in the window sucking out the overspray.


I believe he stated that he uses the circular filter to put the door on to spray it. The fans suck the overspray. The fans in the doorway suck the overspray when spraying the cabinet faces.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Damon T said:


> Great thread Custom! Is that rack just PVC tubing and fittings with tape on top to keep from sticking?


Yes this rack system cost under $200 in materials. Then a weekend to construct. The materials used are 1" pvc piping (the med thick walled kind. Not the thin). A mix of elbows (for the base), a mix of T's for connecting to 3' long rods. I use connectors to join. I only glue connectors not T's to provide flexibility & easy stacking & unstacking them. The small sides are used to stabilize the racks (every 5to6 high). 

As for red tape... That is red stucco tape holding down 3/4" wide foam weather striping. I mold the tape tightly around the foam by pinching sides with fingers then sliding it down . I do this without wrinkling the tape too much if not at all.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Xmark said:


> I don't get that setup. why is there a filter on the cardboard box? and what is that circular filter for? do you have a vacuum suction inside the box? is it a turntable or just a stationary spray area? i understand the concept of the fans and filter in the window sucking out the overspray.


Here I use a cardboard box, fold the 4 box top tabs to fit around a 20"x20", then drill screws with washers to hold it tight. Then I have another box with small opening for air to escape to back of spray booth. The box contains the air while the fan captures the paint.


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## Workaholic

Cool pics. Professional.


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## wje

You actually have Dexter beat on this one. Nice set up.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Workaholic said:


> Cool pics. Professional.


Lol. Pics taken with my Galaxy S2 t mobil. What you see is what you get. I imagine an ipad could do even better. I'll have to try mine out!


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## BrushJockey

This should be made a sticky. Very nice. And McGyvered!


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## jhudson

Nice setup, thanks for sharing. Will probably use some of this on one of my adventures:thumbup:


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## Custom Brush Co.

Finally got this job done!! Took a while to get my settings dialed. I needed a space heater & to turn my pressure down to the 3/4 mark. Plus use a 210 fine finish tip on the vertical surfaces & 410 FFT for the horizontally sprayed surfaces... 

Otherwise at first I went through hell & back learning how to sand out massive runs. I sprayed it thin with a 410 Fine finish tip. Thought I sprayed it thin, but no heat & too thick made for hours of sanding for no scratches or drip marks. I started with a makita orbital using 220, then went to hand sanding using 400, then 320 (or old 180) sand pads to buff out the fine scratches.

In the end these bodies got 4 coats. 

Furthermore, I realized how thorough you really need to be when getting rid of dust. A vacume & wet micro fiber work perfect. Plus I blew off the cabinet doors & drawers prior to spraying. Also, I wore a tyvek spray suit to avoid all possibilities of dust & hairs coming from clothing.

Anyway, here are more revealing booth pics as well as some nice before/after shots.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Almost forgot these pics too...


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## ROOMINADAY

Very professional looking. This will enhance your portfolio!

You need a Festool for this type of work, it will save you hours upon hours. Are the pic's sanded down to wood, a result of the runs you got? Hwat did you prime with again.

How many hours did you have into this project?


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## Custom Brush Co.

With errors & finalizing my booth set up, like near a 100. I could of done these in 60 to 84hrs knowing what I do now. From this kitchen I realized I now will bid at $62 per linal foot. This would give me an 84 hr budget & a $500 product/material budget. This project would have only took 6 gallons but with respraying errors it took 8 gallons total.

Furthermore, I did not prime. I used only breakthrough & started from the cabinets being wood with a lacquer finish. We used lacquer wipe everything down first, then hand sanded with 400 to an even buff rub. In the future I will get a Fesstool. I researched it during the painfull sanding part.

Another thing I learned is to do the backs first (of course) but then not flip for 48 hours minimum. Otherwise faint marks can be left from the pvc on the cabinet doors. Also spray the sides when painting the back & only the top edge when painting the tops. This avoids overspay on the back leaving a ring when spraying the backs. The padding is recommended highly!


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## ROOMINADAY

Custom Brush Co. said:


> With errors & finalizing my booth set up, like near a 100. I could of done these in 60 to 84hrs knowing what I do now. From this kitchen I realized I now will bid at $62 per linal foot. This would give me an 84 hr budget & a $500 product/material budget. This project would have only took 6 gallons but with respraying errors it took 8 gallons total.
> 
> Furthermore, I did not prime. I used only breakthrough & started from the cabinets being wood with a lacquer finish. We used lacquer wipe everything down first, then hand sanded with 400 to an even buff rub. In the future I will get a Fesstool. I researched it during the painfull sanding part.
> 
> Another thing I learned is to do the backs first (of course) but then not flip for 48 hours minimum. Otherwise faint marks can be left from the pvc on the cabinet doors. Also spray the sides when painting the back & only the top edge when painting the tops. This avoids over spray on the back leaving a ring when spraying the backs. The padding is recommended highly!



We are going to make a rack like yours so I can transfer doors to a fresh rack when spraying additional coats, so we don't have to risk stacking them and damaging them/ blocking etc.

Would an HVLP been a better choice in the home and with the Breakthrough?

I have been using a per door/ drawer number, plus hours for dismantle and re-assembly. I find it takes us half a day to put a kitchen back together, and an hour to wrap the doors for shipment. (Remove, package once painted and install) I add 12 to 16 hours just to handle them! The doors are the pain when they are not drying and delay progress. 

I may also try the door drying rack that Shearer uses with the hooks hanging on a rack.


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## Paradigmzz

This may go against every ones conventional thinking, but drill some screws in your drying rack bars with the sharp tips up. Rest the doors on the screw tips. So that the doors are suspended on 4 screw tips. Backs first. Flip after complete with first set and hit fronts. Eleviate the 48 hour dry time between sides, and blocking from drying rack (no impressions on doors) . And for all you doubters, you will not have 4 holes from the screw tips.


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## johnny949

Great photos, gotta love that little pump


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## Custom Brush Co.

This little fine finish (diaphragm) pump is light, fast & easy to prepare to spray & to clean. The perfect solution for spraying acrylic products. I use it for spraying handrails, doors (when I spray), trim & cabinetry coatings & for the small job like underside of a deck with solid stain.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Paradigmzz said:


> This may go against every ones conventional thinking, but drill some screws in your drying rack bars with the sharp tips up. Rest the doors on the screw tips. So that the doors are suspended on 4 screw tips. Backs first. Flip after complete with first set and hit fronts. Eleviate the 48 hour dry time between sides, and blocking from drying rack (no impressions on doors) . And for all you doubters, you will not have 4 holes from the screw tips.


I like the idea of elevating wait time... Unfortunately, this rack works a lot like a cookie sheet going into the bakers rack. I slide it in & out when I am not stacking/un-staking the rack as I go. Such as when I am sanding & prepping them prior to painting. The screw points wouldn't allow for only but precision placement & removal. At least that's how I see it working out...

I just make sure I get the backs done first right after all the floors are protected with 4x8 peices of cardboard (I purchase from a cardboard box company) and the booth is set up. While one person is setting up the booth, another 1 or 2 people label every part & door with individual corresponding #'s. Then prepares both the front & rear sides for painting outside in the garage or something.

Next we all mask & prepare the cabinet box's then finally the drawers (sprayed with cabinet door tops). 

Then we spray the bodies 3 thin & even coats waiting min 2hrs between spot buff sanding specs out with used 180 or new 320 sand pads.


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## Steve Richards

Paradigmzz said:


> And for all you doubters, you will not have 4 holes from the screw tips.


If I do, I'm gonna make you come and fix it.

CBC... very nice
How did you number the doors?

How do the rest of you?

I'm considering buying number stamps, unless I get a better suggestion.


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## straight_lines

Custom Brush Co. said:


> With errors & finalizing my booth set up, like near a 100. I could of done these in 60 to 84hrs knowing what I do now. From this kitchen I realized I now will bid at $62 per linal foot. This would give me an 84 hr budget & a $500 product/material budget. This project would have only took 6 gallons but with respraying errors it took 8 gallons total.
> 
> Furthermore, I did not prime. I used only breakthrough & started from the cabinets being wood with a lacquer finish. We used lacquer wipe everything down first, then hand sanded with 400 to an even buff rub. In the future I will get a Fesstool. I researched it during the painfull sanding part.
> 
> Another thing I learned is to do the backs first (of course) but then not flip for 48 hours minimum. Otherwise faint marks can be left from the pvc on the cabinet doors. Also spray the sides when painting the back & only the top edge when painting the tops. This avoids overspay on the back leaving a ring when spraying the backs. The padding is recommended highly!


If your angle is correct then you shouldn't be getting over spray on the back when you do the sides. I have found with most cabinet paints you need to do several light coats on the edges to prevent runs and sags. Edit nvm I remembered you have a down draft set up. 

Check out this cheap turn table I have, its plastic but has lasted through three pretty big jobs. Its a big help in spraying the sides. 










I think I got it at Lowes, or somewhere similar. 

Steve I have been toying with a number stamp as well. I have been using a sharpie and taping over it.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Steve Richards said:


> How did you number the doors?


I use a thin permanent marker & write a # on the cabinet door & the same # on the cabinet box under where the hardware goes. Then simply place a piece of tape over the #. Once painted, I use a razor knife or 5in1 to lift the labels revealing the #'s. With drawers I tape securely around the drawer sliders & write the # there. If painting the insides I mask off the drawer sliders after taping the # on.


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## Custom Brush Co.

straight_lines said:


> If your angle is correct then you shouldn't be getting over spray on the back when you do the sides. I have found with most cabinet paints you need to do several light coats on the edges to prevent runs and sags. Edit nvm I remembered you have a down draft set up.


Yes, I learned the angle deal & avoided overspray. I did finally dial in the angle to paint the full side & corner edge without getting overspray on the fronts when I spray the backs. I like not having any paint on the sides when painting the fronts. On the fronts I only paint to the corner edge.

Plus, having the down draft table helped tremendously!



straight_lines said:


> Check out this cheap turn table I have, its plastic but has lasted through three pretty big jobs. Its a big help in spraying the sides.


I like that! What department would I find such a turn table?


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## straight_lines

With the kitchen wares.


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## Custom Brush Co.

straight_lines said:


> With the kitchen wares.


These ideas are why I made this post. To expand it's potential.


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## Steve Richards

Custom Brush Co. said:


> I like that! What department would I find such a turn table?





straight_lines said:


> With the kitchen wares.


I like it too, SL.

I keep looking at it...what is it..what's it "really" for?

Are the "little pyramids" part of it..or from something else?

never mind...they're from something else..I gotta quit looking at that GD picture!


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## Custom Brush Co.

Steve Richards said:


> I like it too, SL.
> 
> I keep looking at it...what is it..what's it "really" for?
> 
> Are the "little pyramids" part of it..or from something else?
> 
> never mind...they're from something else..I gotta quit looking at that GD picture!


Don't feel bad... I've been doing the same thing... 

What are those pyramids?


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## ROOMINADAY

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=57821&cat=1,120,43456,43390,57821

I have these ones

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Paint Talk


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## Custom Brush Co.

Steve Richards said:


> I like it too, SL.
> 
> I keep looking at it...what is it..what's it "really" for?
> 
> Are the "little pyramids" part of it..or from something else?
> 
> never mind...they're from something else..I gotta quit looking at that GD picture!


Don't feel bad... I've been doing the same thing... 

What are those pyramids?


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## Paradigmzz

Or you could use screws drilled through the base with the tips up. Anyone willing to adapt and try something new? It's cheap and reproducible on the fly.


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## Custom Brush Co.

Ok, I'll try the screw idea out...


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## Laz

Some people have found it odd when I ask for there large pieces of cardboard. :blink: I use it on the counter tops and floor. Would thin wire and or rope help to keep the plastic from being sucked in? Do you provide fresh air to be sucked in to help with reducing the plastic bing drawn in?


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## Custom Brush Co.

The 4x8 sheets are used also on the side walls. They are reinforced by the zip wall posts & keep the plastic from sucking in.


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## straight_lines

Paradigmzz said:


> Or you could use screws drilled through the base with the tips up. Anyone willing to adapt and try something new? It's cheap and reproducible on the fly.


Umm no. :no:


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## Custom Brush Co.

straight_lines said:


> Umm no. :no:


Lol... It feels wrong, but it's worth a shot on a scrap door... I still like the pyramids! Plan to order them soon!


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## Paradigmzz

straight_lines said:


> Umm no. :no:


Kind of how I feel about plastic triangles. The difference is, I've used both


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## Paradigmzz

Custom Brush Co. said:


> The 4x8 sheets are used also on the side walls. They are reinforced by the zip wall posts & keep the plastic from sucking in.


I love zip walls. I have a bag of a dozen of them. Man they are handy.


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## Custom Brush Co.

The more I use zip walls the more I love them. What a revelation!


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## [email protected]

Custom brush 
When you are figuring liner foot are you adding base and upper to your total linner figure # Looks great love your rack. How long did you make your bars that hold the doors? and would you change any thing. 
David


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## Custom Brush Co.

[email protected] said:


> Custom brush
> When you are figuring liner foot are you adding base and upper to your total linner figure #.


I add up both the top & bottom LF of the cabinet faces.




[email protected] said:


> Looks great love your rack. How long did you make your bars that hold the doors? and would you change any thing.
> David


Length of all tubes are 3'.

I wouldn't change anything... I only will make sure I paint the backs before the bodies. Then the door faces after 2-3 days of the backs of doors drying. I try to paint fronts & install 2hrs after final coat (can do with breakthrough in the right environment for it to properly dry) after the bodies are complete.


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## Damon T

Custom Brush Co. said:


> I add up both the top & bottom LF of the cabinet faces.
> 
> Length of all tubes are 3'.
> 
> I wouldn't change anything... I only will make sure I paint the backs before the bodies. Then the door faces after 2-3 days of the backs of doors drying. I try to paint fronts & install 2hrs after final coat (can do with breakthrough in the right environment for it to properly dry) after the bodies are complete.


Hey Custom
I thought one of the good things of breakthrough was the fast blocking resistance time. I'm very surprised that you had issues flipping the doors after two days. I thought you were supposed to be able to stack things like hours later or the next day at least?
I've only used it twice and have only sprayed vertical so I don't have experience with that. Btw thanks again for all your great pics and documenting your cabinet system!


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## Schmidt & Co.

[email protected] said:


> Looks great love your rack.


Only with a bunch of painters could this statement be normal. :jester:


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## Custom Brush Co.

Damon T said:


> Hey Custom
> I thought one of the good things of breakthrough was the fast blocking resistance time. I'm very surprised that you had issues flipping the doors after two days. I thought you were supposed to be able to stack things like hours later or the next day at least?
> I've only used it twice and have only sprayed vertical so I don't have experience with that.


It has to do with the weight of the doors. Being fresh... if flipped too early then they are left for a lengthy time, then very faint marks appear. If you weight 2 days you can flip & you won't have issues with my padding system. I find 2 days is the min. 24 hours only waiting & I've still had issues on the heavier doors.



Damon T said:


> Btw thanks again for all your great pics and documenting your cabinet system!


Yes, you're welcome! I did this so I could finalize & document my learning curve!


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