# Wood to Wall + T&G Nightmare - caulking



## bobmane (Mar 7, 2017)

I have two scenarios going in one room. I was called in after last guy left job. The job is somewhat challenging because it's not just about making it look right, it is also about blocking pests. So in both cases, I have to totally seal all gaps along the ceilings. 

One side of room I have beam to wall and have to seal it. I was going to tape the beam and put some Quick2Coat White in the gap:

see pics C1 and C2

Other side of the room the last guy taped the tongue and groove already, since I have to seal the T&G gaps I was going to again use Quick2Coat White and try to complete / follow the line last guy set.

see pics C3, C4 and C5


So far all I have done is apply some Sashco Conceal to the T&G on one of the sides. It looks good so far but it was very tedious to do groove by groove + the white caulk has potential to get messy so I thought I would ask if anyone has any tips.


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## Chuck the painter (Sep 16, 2015)

The wood will expand and contract & continue to be a problem. If you have to caulk it elastomeric caulk is probably the way to go.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Chuck the painter said:


> The wood will expand and contract & continue to be a problem. If you have to caulk it elastomeric caulk is probably the way to go.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Even then it could fail depending on the expansion and contraction of the T&G wood.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

bobmane said:


> I have two scenarios going in one room. I was called in after last guy left job. The job is somewhat challenging because it's not just about making it look right, it is also about blocking pests. So in both cases, I have to totally seal all gaps along the ceilings.
> 
> One side of room I have beam to wall and have to seal it. I was going to tape the beam and put some Quick2Coat White in the gap:
> 
> ...


With the T&G moving I would use either Tower Tech II or Big Stretch. It's all we use and have noticed a huge difference over other caulks. Alex tends to fail very easy, Dap same and same with most others.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah, they may not look outstanding, but those gaps are left there for a reason.


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Why not just use clear caulk? Quad or Lexel would work pretty well. NPC Solar Seal if you really want to use the good stuff.

I rarely see any painters using good sealants. All of the better stuff has a learning curve, but it blows normal paint store stuff out of the water. It does tend to be stinky, though, so you need to be aware of that in occupied settings.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Like others have already said, I recommend using something like Tower Tech II, SW Shermax or Big Stetch. 

Due to the size of the gaps you might want to purchase a caulk spatula to help you apply a uniform joint. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E...ng+company&dpPl=1&dpID=31+5REQbxHL&ref=plSrch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Thanks, I learned a tiny bit about sashco, maker of big stretch, lexel, and conceal caulking for log homes.
Http://www.sashco.com/

At the wall to wood joint, I would tape the wood off including going into the groove. Caulk it including the gap (fill up the voids to avoid cracking, shrinking), and wipe out the groove neatly with a nice putty knife so the tape can be pulled cleanly... in this situation i sometimes tape the wall also, because like you said it can be messy, especially with mineral spirit based caulking, or denser caulking.

I have some pics similiar to your situation at the end of the thread:
http://www.painttalk.com/f24/caboose-remodel-70281/


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

So if I were you, I would caulk the grooves (not perimeter gap) with the wood colored caulk. Let that dry and do your taping in order to do the white perimeter caulking like I have done in the pics above. ​


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Use clear tower tech, pro stretch or top gun 400


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