# Interior paint or exterior paint?



## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

This may seem like a noob question, but what the heck. I have a repeat customer who wants me to paint a steel door between the house and garage, and I am rethinking my choice of materials. In the past I have always used exterior latex for this application due to the more extreme temperature swings, but now I'm thinking that maybe the lack of UV would prevent an exterior product from curing properly? What are you guys using for this kind of application?


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Interior. If its not exposed to the elements, interior is fine.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Buy some interior/exterior trim paint.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> Buy some interior/exterior trim paint.


So are thinking something like an SW all surface enamel?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

as you think, a garage door is not exposed to the elements - sun, rain, snow, dust, hail, cyclones, volcanic windstorms, etc.

Although never a steel garage door, I have used interior alkyd paint in unheated out buildings and have had good results. And you know, the "exterior" side of a garage door will not get as cold as the great outdoors.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

I think he was talking about the door that goes out TO the garage. Paint the inside with interior and the outside with exterior. I'd assume you have each from painting other inside doors. The garage side of the door will be exposed to cold if you're in the north and tons of heat and humidity if you're in the south. Either way it'll have to be done regularly since nowdays at least where I've lived the last 25 years no one comes in the front door anymore, it's garage opener and into the house. That my friends is why there are no "neighbors" anymore....but that's another subject. pd


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

painterdude said:


> I think he was talking about the door that goes out TO the garage. Paint the inside with interior and the outside with exterior. I'd assume you have each from painting other inside doors. The garage side of the door will be exposed to cold if you're in the north and tons of heat and humidity if you're in the south. Either way it'll have to be done regularly since nowdays at least where I've lived the last 25 years no one comes in the front door anymore, it's garage opener and into the house. That my friends is why there are no "neighbors" anymore....but that's another subject. pd


You are correct - the door in question is the door that leads from the garage into the house. In the past I have always used interior for one side and exterior for the other side assuming that the exterior product would be more suited to handling the 60-100 degree temperature swings that the outside of the door would be likely to experience over the course of a year (I live in New England). I'm just wondering if my understanding of the differences between interior and exterior paints is flawed in some way.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I would use SW ASE anyway cause it's great on doors with weather stripping as it dries fast and hard. Plus you won't have to stop to clean out your brushes.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

ASE would be my suggestion as well.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

not familiar with ASE..googled Sherwin Wms. ASE and got nothing. Never too old to learn. anyone? thanks, pd


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

painterdude said:


> not familiar with ASE..googled Sherwin Wms. ASE and got nothing. Never too old to learn. anyone? thanks, pd


All Surface Enamel


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

mpminter said:


> So are thinking something like an SW all surface enamel?


I'm thinking SW Solo. I'm beginning to love that stuff. It's interior/exterior.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Wow,really,you guys would use 2 different paints on a frickin garage man door? I think you are over thinking it. Either will work just fine.Like anything else with painting upper mid grade will get the job done.Personally since we use so much Pro Classic interior I would use that.You do want something that will hold up because that is probably the most used door in the house.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

aaron61 said:


> Wow,really,you guys would use 2 different paints on a frickin garage man door? I think you are over thinking it. Either will work just fine.Like anything else with painting upper mid grade will get the job done.Personally since we use so much Pro Classic interior I would use that.You do want something that will hold up because that is probably the most used door in the house.


 i agree. being sheltered and all.it will hold up just fine with int.paint.ive done it this way for yrs. and never had a call back.even checked on some yrs. later. no problems especially with a good durable enamel coating like you posted pro classic or even all surface enamel like mentioned. go for it.


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## bigjeffie61520 (Oct 3, 2009)

would this not be another clear case in favor of Behr Ultra??

paint it red in a single coat, right over all the black finger prints, and marvel at the supreme coverage and uniform sheen.

photo please...

and now this dismal failure of other so-called 'premium" paints:

photo please...


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

bigjeffie61520 said:



> would this not be another clear case in favor of Behr Ultra??
> 
> paint it red in a single coat, right over all the black finger prints, and marvel at the supreme coverage and uniform sheen.
> 
> ...


What?? Guys get over it, Behr is for homeowners.


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## Amish Elecvtrician (Jul 3, 2011)

I'm not happy with any latex for painting metal. Call me old-fashioned, but ....

OK, it works, sort of ... but IMO there's no substitute for a proper metal paint.

An automotive paint supplier can supply the paint - I like the urethane - in any color or sheen you want, from super-dull flat to screaming shiny. On the downside, expect to pay $50/qt. (At least that quart goes a long way).

The stuff can run real easy, especially if you've got the wrong spray tip. Best if you take the door down, lay it flat, and apply MANY 'dusting' light coats, perhaps 15 minutes apart. Watch your cure time, or you'll have a lump of paint in the pot.

Rust-Oleum is a fine paint, but the dried paint is too 'soft' for my liking. The soft surface seems to catch grime too easily. Save it for less active locations. You can easily groove Rust-Oleum with your fingernail; compar to your cars' finish to see the difference.

If you're near Chicago, Carbit is a premium metal paint, locally made.

"Plan B" is to brush / roll the paint. Here the urethane might not be such a good idea; you need a 'slow' cure for all the brush marks to self-level out. A very fine roller on a horizontal door can give a surprisingly good finish. Over-brushing against the 'grain' will help knock down any ridges. Tent it against dust while it dries.

Metal transmits heat - so you can 'speed things up' simply by working in the sunlight ... or heating the underside of the door while you have it flat. 

Preparation ... well, there's a special place in Heaven for the guy who invented Scotch-Brite. I like the maroon ones.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Julian&co said:


> What?? Guys get over it, Behr is for homeowners.


that's happy homeowners.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Julian&co said:


> What?? Guys get over it, Behr is for homeowners.


For happy homeowners I might add.:thumbup:


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

mudbone said:


> For happy homeowners I might add.:thumbup:


You said that twice.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Julian&co said:


> You said that twice.


Worth Repeating.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

I would go with all surface enamel acrylic for both sides.. you are limited in sheen though, its either satin or gloss. I like the satin. That's my bit. A lot of exterior paints can be too tacky for a door.


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## bskerley (Apr 15, 2011)

solo


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Amish Elecvtrician said:


> I'm not happy with any latex for painting metal. Call me old-fashioned, but ....
> 
> OK, it works, sort of ... but IMO there's no substitute for a proper metal paint.
> 
> ...


This can't be real.....It's a frickin garage man door dude! No HO is going to spend that kind of money on a garage door.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

Here are some pics of the finished product. I ended using SW ASE acrylic in high gloss unthinned via my PS FF. I was pretty happy with how it came out!


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Looks real good. I like the shine. I have a question though. Was this the only door that needed painted? Why not brush it? I learned to paint from an old school guy. I brush a lot of doors, trim, etc. I like to spray on the production end. Just hate that it doesn't touch up. I brush almost everything.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

mpminter said:


> Here are some pics of the finished product. I ended using SW ASE acrylic in high gloss unthinned via my PS FF. I was pretty happy with how it came out!


if you're "pretty happy" I am sure the HO will be ecstatic :thumbup: 

Being for all surfaces, ext/int, it sounds like the perfect product, maybe even better than necessary. But that's a good thing.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

epretot said:


> Looks real good. I like the shine. I have a question though. Was this the only door that needed painted? Why not brush it? I learned to paint from an old school guy. I brush a lot of doors, trim, etc. I like to spray on the production end. Just hate that it doesn't touch up. I brush almost everything.


I was going to brush it, but it seemed like a good candidate for the ProShot. If the door had been wood I probably would have brushed it, but because it was steel I wanted the closest thing to an automotive finish I could get. I still would have wanted to pull the door to brush it just so I didn't have to worry about the HO closing it on the weather stripping before it was ready, so at that point it was just as fast to spray it. By screwing those to small blocks of wood to the top I was able to flip the door and shoot the other side as well while it was still wet. It will be a snap to touch up with the PS if I ever need to.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Makes sense. I always take the door down to caulk behind the hinges. This annoys my employees. I guess at that point it could just be sprayed. I have a couple of sprayers...just not a PS. The price point on those things kept me away. Would be nice for instances like that.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

epretot said:


> I always take the door down to *caulk behind the hinges*.



Maybe I've been out of it for too long. Explain that please.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

Must be talking about on the door jam


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