# Roller marks



## Dinger

Hello,

I have been painting for over eight years now and have never had a this problem.

I have applied three coats of light chocolate eggshell paint to a wall that gets a lot of natural daylight. If you look at the wall from the side you can see roller marks. I use good quality rollers, but I have not used this brand of paint before as the home owner supplied it. I have never had this problem. How is the best way to correct or repair?? Any ideas are welcome.

Benjamin moore paint - MooreStyle Interior Acrylic Latex Eggshell

Thanks


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## Workaholic

Most roller marks are caused by application technique or roller. 
Most are to defined to simply sand off and a skim is required.


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## ProWallGuy

Workaholic said:


> Most roller marks are caused by application technique or roller.
> Most are to defined to simply sand off and a skim is required.


Ditto. I would first take a medium sanding screen and pole the crap out of the wall. Repaint using a 3/4" nap to keep a wet edge, keep backrolling to a minimum, and always end on the same (either up or down) stroke.


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## Last Craftsman

Dinger said:


> I have not used this brand of paint before as the home owner supplied it.


So what did you learn from this?


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## ewingpainting.net

Workaholic said:


> Most roller marks are caused by application technique or roller.
> Most are to defined to simply sand off and a skim is required.


Ya if you have a textured wall then your hosed. Cause you end up sanding off the texture.


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## Dinger

Thanks for the info.

One more question......If I lightly sand it do I have to wait for the paint to cure or am I ok to get after it.

Thanks again


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## Mantis

Dinger said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> One more question......If I lightly sand it do I have to wait for the paint to cure or am I ok to get after it.
> 
> Thanks again


I think i would sand the living daylights out of it, not just a light scuffing. Grab your pole and give 'er hell today. When you repaint make sure you are rolling the finish stroke in the same direction. ie, dont apply the paint and roll up/down/up/down/up/down. On your finish stroke start at the top and roll down, pick it up and back to the top and roll down, pick it up and back to the top and roll down. Overlap your stroke by 1/2 and keep a wet edge. 

What paint are you using? Maybe you should toss the HO supplied stuff and use something you're more familiar with.


Mantis' School of Painting 101 Session: End. Send tuition payments to [email protected] :thumbup:


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## jack pauhl

Dinger this might not have a thing to do with paint or your technique. Eggshell brings out the worst in walls as does semi-gloss. If someone rolled those walls like you see on those cheesy home shows in a W pattern like paint manufacturers recommend?? then eggshell will bring that out and NO amount of sanding will remove it.

Dont think you can break out a pole sander and sand that crap out, that wont happen.

on 2nd thought, you may want to try rolling with a crappy cover that wont shed to leave some roller texture OR maybe use a Polar Bear and change the appearance altogether.


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## bigjeffie61520

if you take a palm sander, and some coarse paper, and keep it moving, you can get roller marks out. it takes a little time. dont let the sander stand still or it will start to roll off the paint


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## Rcon

I hate MooreStyle. I've only ever had 1 paint failure, and it was with MooreStyle. Plus the stuff is sticky and hard to roll. 

If the HO doesn't like the roller marks/flashing, tell her to get you collection, or aura.

On the rare (very rare) occasion that the HO gives me their own materials to use, I tell them I will not warranty any work done with their paint. They could have had it sitting in their basement for 5 years, or left it outside to freeze.


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## chrisn

jack pauhl said:


> Dinger this might not have a thing to do with paint or your technique. Eggshell brings out the worst in walls as does semi-gloss. If someone rolled those walls like you see on those cheesy home shows in a W pattern like paint manufacturers recommend?? then eggshell will bring that out and NO amount of sanding will remove it.
> 
> Dont think you can break out a pole sander and sand that crap out, that wont happen.
> 
> on 2nd thought, you may want to try rolling with a crappy cover that wont shed to leave some roller texture OR maybe use a Polar Bear and change the appearance altogether.


 
I wonder why sandpaper was invented, or the multitude of sanding tools? All these years of sanding walls and I guess I was just wasting time.


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## AmericanPatch&Paint

Had the same problem w/ SW Cashmere (deep chocolate color) If you use an 18" 3/8nap (3/4" WAY too much for smooth wall) it will hide the lines, just finish your back blend in the same direction (up or dn)


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## George Z

For non Canadians, Moorestyle was the second line after Regal,
before the new system.
May not be a technique, or equipment problem.

It is a colourant issue with dark browns and charcoals.
You could even see the uneven paint in your can or paint tray.
You can keep mixing it, it will never be fixed.
You can do whatever, move extra fast, change the roller sleeve,
nothing works.
Change the paint


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## Schmidt & Co.

I agree with George Z, *change the paint.*

Oh.... And I NEVER use customer supplied paint. Like has previously been stated, you just dont know what has been done to it. Plus I want to use my proven products. Also, products that I know my _production rates_ with. Crappy paint can throw those production rates out the window!


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## flowjo

its your roller 100% basically your gonna need a little thicker of a nap to keep a very even finish all together i wouldnt use the woven kinds use something like a german roller or a thicker microfiber and lay the paint on good and make sure its very even backrolls some tints are **** to work with but i find when this problem happens its always the roller that solves it, also maybe add a little water to your paint thin it down so you can keep it wet a little longer and it helps gets rid of excess texture and smooths out much nicer and always finish the roll in one direction i like going bottom to top


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## speedy472

Are you sure they are your roller marks.?????????? You prolly used an eggshell that is highlighting old marks,,,,As for fixing them, you gotta float em with mud and start over..............


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## bigjeffie61520

speedy472 said:


> Are you sure they are your roller marks.?????????? You prolly used an eggshell that is highlighting old marks,,,,As for fixing them, you gotta float em with mud and start over..............


 
this is a good point

i have had some success sanding them out

also , if you sand them and the line is a different color, you know it wasnt you, but you are screwed anyway


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## ALIX PAINTER

Just sand it good appley one or two coats


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## SterlingPainting

I can just about guarantee that this wall gets light from a window and you're seeing it from a side angle. These walls are always more difficult to do as your eye is liek a laser and spots ANY imperfections right away. Usually what I do in this event is sand the bejesus out of the wall with a pole sander first (120 grit) then add flotrol to the paint, this helps keep your wet edge. Go the ENTIRE distance of the wall rolling, then quickly backroll all at once. That should cure it. :thumbsup:


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## Picky Painter

I've never used moorestyle, I like to use regal/collection as much as possible. My local BM rep tells me that moorestyle has been replaced with the ben line. Do any of you folks have any feedback on ben?

Edit: If a person *did* decide to strong-arm the wall with a polesander to try and fix this what is better, a screen or regular sandpaper? I kinda like that yellow swiss siarrex paper that my local BM store sells, it doesnt clog up as easily as other sandpapers.


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## straight_lines

Screen is gonna clog with paint, esp uncured latex. If there are that many roller marks and you are pretty sure they are not yours then you can sand till next month before you get them out. I would skim it with a wide knife and some 90 min light sand mud.

Sand it smooth and you can start fresh so you know the wall is flat. You can do this and prime it in no time, and throw two coats of finish on it the next day.


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