# Stain & Application For Putter Display



## Browns7213 (Oct 20, 2014)

Hey folks a friend built me this floor standing putter rack and I need some assistance with stain choice & application. My plan was to use Polyshades Gloss Black stain on it, until I read the threads here on how its a crap product. So now I guess I'm gonna go the stain and poly separate route. 

For this application, and to limit drips, would you apply stain with a brush or rag?

Is there a recommended poly that may stand up better than others to putters banging up against it?

How many coats of poly is recommended?

Thanks


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Minxwax Nope!
If you stopped into my shop:
sand to 120, condition with daly's benite, stain with old masters or lenmar wiping stain. Optional sanding sealer. Top coat with lenmar oil polyurethane or BM stays clear. dry and sand between coats accordingly. Plenty of other quality stains and clear coats. Use whats available in your area. Generally 2-3 coats of poly, apply at the recommended mil thickness.



I like to apply stain with a fine china bristle brush.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

or paint it gloss black maybe?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Minxwax Nope!
> If you stopped into my shop:
> sand to 120, condition with daly's benite, stain with old masters or lenmar wiping stain. Optional sanding sealer. Top coat with lenmar oil polyurethane or BM stays clear. dry and sand between coats accordingly. Plenty of other quality stains and clear coats. Use whats available in your area. Generally 2-3 coats of poly, apply at the recommended mil thickness.
> 
> ...


I agree with everything above, and would add an application tip... uf you are going with an oil poly, you can wipe on several coats of %50 mineral spirits, 50%% oil poly. Sand or buff between coats and its pretty darn easy. Wear gloves, use a small piece of cotton rag or a cheese cloth. That method is very easy. 2 coats minimum, up to 4 ir 5 coats to get smoother or more gloss. About 1.5 hrs to 2 hours between coats.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

120 is too course for soft wood, as that appears to be. I dont sand anything courser than 150 for anything stained, although oak can handle 120 without showing scratches. I've seen too many scratch marks, so I never go less than 150. I also find it far easier and faster to skip the brush, and dip a rag, or even a sponge, in stain to apply, then just use a dry brush to get it in the corners. After you wipe the stain off, use another dry brush to get the stain OUT of the corners as well. DISPOSE OF YOUR RAGS PROPERLY!!! Especially if dipping them in stain. 

As far as poly, I agree with everyone above. My rule is three full coats worth, the first usually being a sand sealer, but for something small, I would just use poly rather than buy a separate sand sealer.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Hmmmmm......

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I would go on generalfinishes website. They have some tutorials on small projects. Their products are more geared to the professional than the Minwax line. You first decision is oil or waterbased. Looks like a soft wood so the stain will splotch. You can do a decent job with minwax oil. Sand to 220, condition wood with paint thinner, stain with minwax oil stain of choice, use rag or paper towels. Let dry thoughly 3-4 coats of Minwax wipe on poly. The regular Minwax oil based poly is a little thicker and can be applied nicely with a china bristle brush. Get a good quality china bristle brush and keep it clean and you can use it for years


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## Browns7213 (Oct 20, 2014)

Thanks to all for the advice and recommendations. Unfortunately, I probably should have made this my first stop as I sanded the rack with 120 and then 220. So, I guess my next question is it too late to back over with 150 or should I just forget about stain and paint it? Thanks.


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