# Stain and poly prep for cabinets



## E&J Painting (Aug 3, 2010)

I have a client who wants several bare wood cabinets stained and poly'ed but I've never done this before. What is the correct procedure for doing this (from a to z).?? And what brushes/equipment will I need ?? Thanks guys!!


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

_:no:
_


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

_


_


----------



## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Sub it out to someone that knows how to do the job.


----------



## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

For starters, poly does not really belong on cabinets, unless they're exterior cabinets. 

Really - how many people do you know that clean their cabinets with lacquer thinner?

As far as staining - if you have to ask what brush to use then I agree with the above and you should be subbing it out, as screwing up cabinetry will cost you big money. Not to mention costing the homeowner big money and you your reputation. 

There is too much for any one post to go though the steps to get a proper stain finish, but what you might want to do is head over to woodworkertalk.com or wood web and start doing some serious reading. Then go buy some scrap maple, birch, fir, pine and poplar boards and start testing systems.


----------



## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Rcon said:


> For starters, poly does not really belong on cabinets, unless they're exterior cabinets.
> 
> Really - how many people do you know that clean their cabinets with lacquer thinner?
> 
> ...


No poly on cabinets? Maybe the poly is different in Canada. 
somehow that seems strange. Same with lacquer thinner too? Even stranger.

Overall good advice insuring this guy will not be back and will have nice things to say about all present and the warm and fuzzy welcome and subsequent responses to his question.


----------



## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Retired said:


> No poly on cabinets? Maybe the poly is different in Canada.
> somehow that seems strange. Same with lacquer thinner too? Even stranger.
> 
> Overall good advice insuring this guy will not be back and will have nice things to say about all present and the warm and fuzzy welcome and subsequent responses to his question.


So......where is your generous, in depth and technical response to this lost painter?

Retired and FOS.


----------



## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

poly is nice on cabinets.

stain them with a rag.

dont put the rag in the trash, get it wet with water and lay it outside to dry.

let the stain dry for a day.

lay down the poly with a brush, let it dry.

scuff sand them, and repeat until you have a minimum of 2 coats,,,preferably 3 coats,,,scuffed and tacked between coats.

this will look fine if you lay out your stain and poly neatly and uniformly.

if you want them to look and feel really slick, let them dry, and wax them with johnsons paste wax and some very fine steel wool,,,then buff them with a terrycloth towel.


----------



## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

E&J Painting said:


> I have a client who wants several bare wood cabinets stained and poly'ed but I've never done this before. What is the correct procedure for doing this (from a to z).?? And what brushes/equipment will I need ?? Thanks guys!!


First make sure what color they want. It is good to have a sample. Every thing tends to stain up differently. It also might be easier to take the doors off when you stain especially if the insides are prefinished or cheeap particle board. You can either pad or brush the stain on, and then wipe it off with rags. If you want a darker look leave the stain on for 5 or 10 mins. Make sure to wipe it nicely because you dont want blotches or streaks. After you wipe the stain, make sure to let it dry long enough, so you dont lift the stain with your varnish or lacquer. Personally I would spray them with lacquer if you have a shop. If not, do it the old fashioned way. Get a 3/16 roller and apply the sealer first, and then I backbrush after I roll. Use the same method in between sanding and wiping the dust off, and apply as many needed coats as it takes to make it smooth.


----------



## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

what kind of wood are you staining? Gotta watch out for soft woods getting blotchy, tannin bleed on white oak.


----------



## dvp (Jun 21, 2010)

i've been using acrylic poly last several years, or better yet acrylic pre-cat lacquer. you have to use a small tip (410). any larger and poly will run. if using oil stain i use seal coat (shellac) for bonding purposes. acrylic poly is way more user friendly and dries in 15 minutes versus eight hours.


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

My advice: sample boards, sample boards, sample boards!


----------



## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

*Best for beginners*

I agree with sample boards, sample boards, sample boards, 

But beyond that. I think the easiest for beginners is to use Old Master's Gel stain, cut it with mineral spirits until it gives you the color and darkness you want (can always do additional coats so start lighter). I would also rag the product on and have an oil brush on hand for hard to reach nooks and crannies. 

Last, I use Garahm's brand "Ceramithane," and I love it. It's water based, so it has very little smell (customer always appreciates that), and can be coated multiple times relativly quickly compared to oil based. Also, since it is not an oil, it won't yellow in the comming years (customer also will appreciate this). Use a very fine sand paper in-between coats. My favorite brush for smooth trim and cabinet applications is Corona brands "Vegas," brush. Good luck, there's good money in cabinets


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

was curious about ceramithane. thanks for the input.


----------



## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

*Paradigmzz*

sure, not sure what you want to know about it specifically. It is a waterborne ceramic product made by Graham's. It comes in different sheens and is very easy to apply. They claim (the paint store and Garahm's rep) that it sets up harder than even the oil products. It is pretty expensive though (about $80 per gallon), but it goes a long way.


----------



## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

briancreary said:


> sure, not sure what you want to know about it specifically. It is a waterborne ceramic product made by Graham's. It comes in different sheens and is very easy to apply. They claim (the paint store and Garahm's rep) that it sets up harder than even the oil products. It is pretty expensive though (about $80 per gallon), but it goes a long way.



I actually have a gallon of it, a customer of mine gave it to me. :yes:. Been meaning to try it out, just havent heard anything about it personally. She wanted to use it on her front door, but I spar varnished instead. (I think it was an impulse buy on her part, too much money and free time to surf the internet). I had a hard time using it because I didnt want to find out the hard way it is not "all that". Also wasn't sure about the breakdown over time due to UV and moisture as well as what recoating would look like/ entail down the road.

Back to the OP, I would tell them to shack up in a hotel for the night and I would lacquer it all.... But that's because my brain cells are acting up and I need to show them who's boss. :thumbup::whistling2:


----------



## briancreary (Oct 12, 2010)

*yup*

There is a Ceramithane for interior use, and one for interior/exterior use that has the UV protectant in it. :thumbsup:


----------



## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

Your name says E and J PAINTING? Now I will admit that there is always House Painting Projects that we all come across that may stump us, but finishing cabinets seems like its not one of them.

Mr. or MRS. homeowner, bite the bullet and pay the professional painter to do it that you got the estimate from.


----------

