# pros vs cons of latex vs oil enamel



## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

so i do alot of enamel work and i m doing a house where their going to replace all trim because of failing previous paint job.so i will be putting finish on all pre primed material and i m a firm beliver i can make it look good the right way brush or spray but i would rather spray but here it is.......i like working with water base as it is friendly to mother earth,cleans up easy,dries quick,i dont like how on wood work it takes so long to cure,i dont mind working with oil except it takes so long to dry and its more pain in clean up,not a fan of yellowing,but here is what i was woundering what yall thought,one of my big words i sell is durability,also these doors and trim lots will have to be transported from the area were i set up shop and brought to site then put up and finished,so were talking durability,oil or water based and i know they have a water based oil now but i ve never used and not a fan of try n new matirals on a job like this..........so would love to here what the lions have to say...thanks


----------



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Transporting all that trim with fresh latex enamel sounds like a nightmare to me.


----------



## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

jsheridan said:


> Transporting all that trim with fresh latex enamel sounds like a nightmare to me.


Not a problem with certain paints but could be an issue with many. Dare I mention names.


----------



## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

billy the kid said:


> so i do alot of enamel work and i m doing a house where their going to replace all trim because of failing previous paint job.so i will be putting finish on all pre primed material and i m a firm beliver i can make it look good the right way brush or spray but i would rather spray but here it is.......i like working with water base as it is friendly to mother earth,cleans up easy,dries quick,i dont like how on wood work it takes so long to cure,i dont mind working with oil except it takes so long to dry and its more pain in clean up,not a fan of yellowing,but here is what i was woundering what yall thought,one of my big words i sell is durability,also these doors and trim lots will have to be transported from the area were i set up shop and brought to site then put up and finished,so were talking durability,oil or water based and i know they have a water based oil now but i ve never used and not a fan of try n new matirals on a job like this..........so would love to here what the lions have to say...thanks


You want a bullet proof water based enamel?...Try Insl-x Cabinet Coat...Only problem is that it only comes in lighter colors and a satin finish....That said,most trim and doors are an off white where I live...it'll give you an oil like finish with the brush...Brilliant stuff,actually.


----------



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Yes, mention names. I'd be interested to hear your experience on this. 

If you give the latex enough cure time you will be fine, but you probably don't have the luxury. 

Are you planning on spraying doors and trim off site? Just doors? One coating and then finishing on site?

As far as oil, I don't even really use it anymore, and wouldn't consider it for its various drawbacks, which you've mentioned. I get the impression you'd be a lot happier with a water-based, if you can find one that fits your needs.


----------



## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

Insl-x Cabinet Coat- this i will look into cause that is exactly what i m talking about,i wont have time for a full cure,hard to come by but the bullet proof finish is what i m looking for sounds good anyway,i will be spraying off site in a shop that i have,i figure the doors when they arrive back a the job are considered finished but u know how that goes but all the rest of the trim will need to be caulked and filled and a final finish,it is white and semi gloss,:thumbup:


----------



## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

billy the kid said:


> Insl-x Cabinet Coat- this i will look into cause that is exactly what i m talking about,i wont have time for a full cure,hard to come by but the bullet proof finish is what i m looking for sounds good anyway,i will be spraying off site in a shop that i have,i figure the doors when they arrive back a the job are considered finished but u know how that goes but all the rest of the trim will need to be caulked and filled and a final finish,it is white and semi gloss,:thumbup:


Like I said, it only comes in a satin finish...if you want semi-gloss you are out of luck with this product...I really wish that they made it in a semi.


----------



## Contractor Jeff (Apr 8, 2011)

Solvent based paints take longer to dry and harden these days since the law requires lower and lower VOC's every few years. Manufactures take out more and more driers to meet these ever changing requirements. This is something to consider when carpet or tile installers are due to come in soon after painting (nicks and scrapes).


----------



## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

A Thinner rag in your back pocket can give you burn on your azz, water on a rag will just give you soggy azz.


----------



## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

I'll add a vote for cabinet coat. You can stack it in 24 hours without blocking issues. Great stuff for both spray and brush applications.


----------



## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> A Thinner rag in your back pocket can give you burn on your azz, water on a rag will just give you soggy azz.


 I think I still have a scar from like 30 years ago. Thats something I only did once.


----------



## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

i found this insl cabinet paint but cant find a local dealer,where is it u find this at,i m in oregon but there is pretty much every kind of paint store in my general area


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

billy the kid said:


> i found this insl cabinet paint but cant find a local dealer,where is it u find this at,i m in oregon but there is pretty much every kind of paint store in my general area


Insl X is owned by Benjamin Moore, so look for a Moores dealer.


----------



## Faron79 (Dec 11, 2007)

Cab-Coat is in most ACE Warehouses.
Any ACE can get it.

I've had it on my shelves for yeeeeaarsss.

Faron


----------



## Mplspaint01 (Apr 20, 2011)

Has anyone tried sw kemaqua pigmented waterbase lacquer. I hear it dries to sand in 20 mins and is just as durable or more as most oil enamels. Seems like it would be hard to build up a decent build since it's so thin.


----------



## tntpainting (Apr 3, 2008)

Yeah I had a real bad paintthinner burn on my arce few years back from a rag I thought was clean I put in my pocket it looked like raw hamburger for about a month nasty !!!!!! I rarely use oils anymore that's one of the reasons lol.


----------



## Miss Brown (Apr 20, 2011)

I love oil, and then I got old. Less tolerant of poison. I still use it on shutters and porches, and I use oil primer on exterior wood, esp. P.T and old furry cypress. Nothing like it, but will make me ill if I get any of it on my hands. I won't spray it, as it ate my last sprayer. 

I used to love Pro-Classic, 5 years ago. (Sherwill). It looked like oil, and acted like it (as far as cleaning dirt off). Sadly, I think they may have changed their recipe, because the last can I got this year performed just like any ol' semi-gloss. (Is it just me?) I did a balcony in Aura semi-gloss recently, I'm very happy with it! It's not oil, but it's pretty nice; cleans well, flattens well. Sets up pretty fast. Expensive. They say you don't need primer, but that's a science experiment I'm only willing to run on drywall, and in my own house.


----------

