# Lacquer over FPoE's Swedish putty?



## Dreamscape Painting (Jun 17, 2012)

Hey fellas,
Just wondering if any of you have experience with using Swedish putty as just a filler/skimcoat and using something other than FPoE's paint products as a top coat?

Specifically, I'm looking at using Becker-Acroma's Bernyl Unisurfacer as a primer over it and then top coating with Becker-Acroma
s Matador lacquer. I'm kind of wondering if any of you have done something like that before...

I know the swedish putty says it doesn't need to be primed but that is when you are putting another alkyd over top of it, I was thinking it would be best to prime it with the unisurfacer prior to putting lacquer on top of it...

The reason I'm not just sticking to FPoE's products is mostly because of how difficult they are to get in my area (near Vancouver, Canada) but also cost.

I'll be looking to use it on mdf/wood panelled walls and ceilings, I normally do multiple primes, sands, fills with spackle and glazing putty to achieve a glassy smooth surface but I was thinking that maybe with using the swedish putty to do my filling and act as a prime I could eliminate a couple steps for me...

Thoughts?

I did call Fine Paints of Europe directly, they basically just said they don't test their products with other brands products so there is no guarantee it would work and for me just to do my due diligence in making samples, I thought I'd check in with the pro's here who've actually used their products...


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I've only ever used it with the FPoE paints. High gloss alkyd. 
I'm thinking that the labor to apply and sand the Swedish putty will far outweigh your paint material costs, and that you're really not necessarily saving money if you then have to apply another primer over it. I'm guessing you are probably spraying your finish coats, which would save on labor. Ive personally never sprayed FPoE, only brushed. Of course it comes out looking sprayed anyways. Nice stuff. When using the Swedish putty you pretty much have to do the whole area of whatever you're doing, since it makes things so much smoother and denser than the surrounding areas. 
If I was to spray it I think I would go hvlp. Easier to control and much less material usage so less $ too.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

As an aside, after we ran low on FPoE's Swedish putty in the midst of a job, we tried making our own out of enamel undercoater and whiting. Haven't used the store-bought version since.


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Ive used lots of primers and topcoats over swedish putty. No problems. I can't see lacquer being any different either.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/lacquer-finish-walls-25853/


Mods please merge.

I may have to look into this (apparently) up and coming trend...


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## Dreamscape Painting (Jun 17, 2012)

Thanks for weighing in guys, even though we will be lacquering the paneling we are still going to giving it a satin finish, on some of our higher end jobs the prep can be incredible to get the mdf/wood trim up to snuff. It's far quicker and easier doing stain grade paneling I find. 

Right now our process looks like:

Prime open mdf edges/fill nail holes /palm sand flats to get rid of mdf pucker and fills /hand sand trim fills(150grit)

Prime all panelling/caulk(mostly knife) /refill with glazing putty(using halogen lights) / sand everything perfect with 180 grit

Prime all panelling/sand with 320 and Superfine pads/vacuum/tack cloth/top coat


With all that prep, if I can eliminate one sanding in one panelled out room I could save maybe 40-70 man hours of sanding... 

I'm still working it all out, always trying to find a better/quicker way to achieve a nicer finish for our clients...


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## Dreamscape Painting (Jun 17, 2012)

Here is a picture of part of the up and coming master bedroom, those of you who have used Swedish putty, for us to get a perfect surface on this paneling, do you think this would be viable application for it?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Dreamscape Painting said:


> Here is a picture of part of the up and coming master bedroom, those of you who have used Swedish putty, for us to get a perfect surface on this paneling, do you think this would be viable application for it?
> 
> View attachment 20211


When we have panel shoulders or molding to do, especially a lot of it, we make up some custom squeegees to apply the Swedish putty. That way minimize the amount that has to be sanded off. We generally use some fairly stiff plastic for them.

We did some doors with MDF panels and the shoulders felt like 60 grit. They were a nightmare to fill and sand. Fortunately, the builder accepted our change order for the extra labor involved.


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## cardwizzard (Sep 13, 2010)

Gough said:


> As an aside, after we ran low on FPoE's Swedish putty in the midst of a job, we tried making our own out of enamel undercoater and whiting. Haven't used the store-bought version since.


Do you mind expanding a little more on this? What ratio and anything else in the mix?

Have used a French formula and the Chinese supposedly have an old one that is pretty good. I understand they used it in Phillys Chinatown entrance and it looks amazing.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

cardwizzard said:


> Do you mind expanding a little more on this? What ratio and anything else in the mix?
> 
> Have used a French formula and the Chinese supposedly have an old one that is pretty good. I understand they used it in Phillys Chinatown entrance and it looks amazing.


Sure. Start with some alkyd enamel undercoater and add whiting until it is a workable consistency. We used PPG 6-6 or 17-255 for a long time, but since our local supplier changed brands, we'd probably go with BM.


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## cardwizzard (Sep 13, 2010)

Gough said:


> Sure. Start with some alkyd enamel undercoater and add whiting until it is a workable consistency. We used PPG 6-6 or 17-255 for a long time, but since our local supplier changed brands, we'd probably go with BM.



I presume you think it does just as good a job if you have used it again? And then you just knife it on?

Nice tip, I might give it a try. 

Thks!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Gough said:


> Sure. Start with some alkyd enamel undercoater and add whiting until it is a workable consistency. We used PPG 6-6 or 17-255 for a long time, but since our local supplier changed brands, we'd probably go with BM.


That's the tip of the day right there! I'm gonna have to try this one!


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Same here. I wish I knew what the consistency was supposed to be though. Brush able?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

DeanV said:


> Same here. I wish I knew what the consistency was supposed to be though. Brush able?


Sorry. We generally make it more like knife grade. The nice thing about making our own is that we can change the consistency easily. We have added more undercoater in situations where we'll be brushing it on like gesso.


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