# SW Pro Industrial Waterbased Alkyd Urethane Enamel



## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

According to my SW Rep this product has been on the market in Canada for about 2 months now and I was thinking about giving it a try for some kitchen cabinets. We usually use MSA for cabinet repaints, but after looking at the PDS it seems to me that the AUE will level better, although it is not quite as hard as the MSA.

Thoughts? What are your experiences with this product? Have your sprayed it? HVLP or airless?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I gave it a test drive in some sample doors with MSA side by side. It does level a little better but severely lacks the adhesion and hardness of MSA. I stuck with MSA. 

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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I gave it a test drive in some sample doors with MSA side by side. It does level a little better but severely lacks the adhesion and hardness of MSA. I stuck with MSA.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk




Do you spray? HVLP or airless?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> Do you spray? HVLP or airless?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Spray Air Assisted Airless but when tested it I brushed them both. 

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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Spray Air Assisted Airless but when tested it I brushed them both.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk



Not questioning your results, just more curious:

How did you test adhesion? Score + tape? What was cure time? How did you test for hardness?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Nothing special I simply applied it to half an unsanded cabinet door and did the other half with msa. After 8hrs I couldnt scratch off the MSA and could easily scratch off the enamel. Then I tried it again every week for a month with the same results. 

For a finish that leveled a hair better by brush than msa I dont think sacrificing some of the great qualities (recoat time, adhesion) is worth it. 

It's definitely still worth having SW comp you a gallon to try for yourself. Like I said I haven't sprayed it maybe the finish is amazing sprayed I don't know. 

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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I use it for the outside of exterior doors. Sprays really nice with an airless - brushing isn't great. IMO, biggest knock is lack of an eggshell sheen. Just available in satin and gloss, though I've heard it's coming out in eggshell (if it hasn't aleady).


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

RH said:


> I use it for the outside of exterior doors. Sprays really nice with an airless - brushing isn't great. IMO, biggest knock is lack of an eggshell sheen. Just available in satin and gloss, though I've heard it's coming out in eggshell (if it hasn't aleady).




According to the PDS it is currently available in low sheen, semi, and gloss. I was just looking at an old thread on this same topic, and it seems like they have done something to help the recoat time. In March the PDS said 12 hours, now it says 4. If I remember correctly RH, you use MSA for painting cabinets? Have you tried the WB AUE for that?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

MurphysPaint said:


> According to the PDS it is currently available in low sheen, semi, and gloss. I was just looking at an old thread on this same topic, and it seems like they have done something to help the recoat time. In March the PDS said 12 hours, now it says 4. If I remember correctly RH, you use MSA for painting cabinets? Have you tried the WB AUE for that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope, not yet.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I've had great results with WB AUE on 2 cabinet projects (1 sprayed and 1 brushed) and 2 trim packs (sprayed) in the last year. I haven't had any adhesion issues, but I wipe everything with gloss off and scuff sand.

Although it's very similar to BM Advance, it's a much more forgiving product to apply compared to Advance. It can be applied at a thicker millage when spraying without running or sagging compared to Advance. If you add a small amount of water it also brushes very well and it's doesn't have the same issues with runs appearing on jambs with lots of corners.




















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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

I sprayed it plenty. Not even close to Advance for hardness and beauty of finish. Just my HO


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

thinkpainting/nick said:


> I sprayed it plenty. Not even close to Advance for hardness and beauty of finish. Just my HO




Nick, I value your onion as you seem to have a lot experience applying a wide variety of coatings. At the moment what is your go to trim paint? 


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

PNW Painter said:


> Nick, I value your onion as you seem to have a lot experience applying a wide variety of coatings. At the moment what is your go to trim paint?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lots very smart guys here with years of experince. My trim paint depends on the job. Also depends whether spraying , brushing etc. So my answer is depends on job, dry times and high end or production.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

Do any of you guys use polycrylic on your cabinet jobs?


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

MurphysPaint said:


> Do any of you guys use polycrylic on your cabinet jobs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Like Minwax waterborne polyurethane? If so, then no.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

slinger58 said:


> Like Minwax waterborne polyurethane? If so, then no.




Like that, or if not, any other clear?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

I've used the urethane enamel. Good stuff, dries pretty hard. 4h pencil hardness, according to the data sheet.

Honestly don't use it much..reason being is the re-coat and dry times. I can get solo (interior/exterior product) that has good blocking etc., to dry to touch in about 15-20 mins. It's less expensive, comes in more 'accurate' sheens, and works well (levels nicely enough). Only thing it lacks is the hardness of the WB alky ur. enamel.


I wouldn't put polycrylic on top of anything that is white, it has a yellow cast to it. And I also wouldn't use it on cabinets/trim. In a pinch maybe it would work, but I'd prefer to use something stronger. Like a waterbased poly. I prefer my clears to be water white/crystal clear...so they don't impart any yellowing/ambering. 

I'd have to say Target Coatings or General Finishes poly stuff works good. Give them a shot if you have a vendor around.


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## msucro (Apr 5, 2012)

We've used a lot of Solo and WB AUE...mostly for interior trim/doors/etc. Usually use Solo over acrylic and WB AUE over oil/hybrids. Adhesion seems a bit better than Solo, especially over oil/hybrids. They both level very nicely using airless and FF.
I just bought a gallon of INSL-X Cabinet Coat to try. It's expensive but was noticeably harder than WB AUE (fingernail test). Adhesion seemed similar. I was thinking of using it for cabinets when lacquer is not an option.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

MurphysPaint said:


> According to my SW Rep this product has been on the market in Canada for about 2 months now and I was thinking about giving it a try for some kitchen cabinets. We usually use MSA for cabinet repaints, but after looking at the PDS it seems to me that the AUE will level better, although it is not quite as hard as the MSA.
> 
> Thoughts? What are your experiences with this product? Have your sprayed it? HVLP or airless?




Correction: the PDS indicates the AUE (5H) is harder than MSA (3H).


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> Correction: the PDS indicates the AUE (5H) is harder than MSA (3H).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How do you guys use MSA on cabinets, when on the data page is specs metal and concrete only? If you have any problem whatsoever, SW will never back your claim.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

MikeCalifornia said:


> How do you guys use MSA on cabinets, when on the data page is specs metal and concrete only? If you have any problem whatsoever, SW will never back your claim.




Valid question. I suppose the answer is that we use it recklessly. I use it because that's what I learned, and I haven't had any issues with it so far *touch wood. I'm always looking for ways to improve, which is why I started this topic. 

What do you use AUE for? Or do you prefer another product?


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> Valid question. I suppose the answer is that we use it recklessly. I use it because that's what I learned, and I haven't had any issues with it so far *touch wood. I'm always looking for ways to improve, which is why I started this topic.
> 
> What do you use AUE for? Or do you prefer another product?
> 
> ...


I only asked the question because I have a set of french doors and side lights inside to do next week and was considering MSA. When I looked at the data page it does not spec for wood, and so many people use on cabinets. I most likely will use PI acrylic.
I use waterbase lacquer on cabinets now. I have not used AUE yet, but that technology was bought when they purchased Frazee paint out here in San Diego, it was called Arothane. I have been using the Dunn Edwards similar product called Aristoshield with great results on doors and trim.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

MikeCalifornia said:


> How do you guys use MSA on cabinets, when on the data page is specs metal and concrete only? If you have any problem whatsoever, SW will never back your claim.


Because Mike, I'm a badass, and that's what we do. Besides, SW prolly wouldn't back my claim if they made paint specifically for my job.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

MikeCalifornia said:


> I only asked the question because I have a set of french doors and side lights inside to do next week and was considering MSA. When I looked at the data page it does not spec for wood, and so many people use on cabinets. I most likely will use PI acrylic.
> I use waterbase lacquer on cabinets now. I have not used AUE yet, but that technology was bought when they purchased Frazee paint out here in San Diego, it was called Arothane. I have been using the Dunn Edwards similar product called Aristoshield with great results on doors and trim.




I have never used MSA on trim or doors, just cabinets and the metal surfaces it is spec'd for. We typically use ProClassic for interior trim and doors, although I am going to try the AUE on the next job. It might become my new go-to for trim/doors. 

What water borne lacquer do you use? I'm really exploring better options for cabinetry lately and would love your feedback.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> I have never used MSA on trim or doors, just cabinets and the metal surfaces it is spec'd for. We typically use ProClassic for interior trim and doors, although I am going to try the AUE on the next job. It might become my new go-to for trim/doors.
> 
> What water borne lacquer do you use? I'm really exploring better options for cabinetry lately and would love your feedback.
> 
> ...


Valspar Zenith line


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