# Painting over previously stained cedar



## rfguy (May 31, 2010)

Hello All,
I am new to the site and a newbe in the business. I am looking at what could be an easy job. Single story ranch with cedar bevel siding with cedar trim vinyl windows. The house is 18 years old and has been stained twice previously with Olympic latex stain. The chaulking and siding is in good shape however in some (like north exposure) areas siding has green like algae or on surface. 
I am considering a bleach water solution on these areas. There looks like there is a liitle mold in the exposed eves and will probably do same here. Any suggestions?

Customer wants to use a paint like Valspar but I am trying to get them to use S-W Duration or similiar. I have heard some horror stories about painting over cedar. Any problems to be concerned about this? The stain is a dark rust color and cust. wants to do a dark green paint.

If I use a self primer like Duration can it be sprayed with the right tip? 

Thanks for your help!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Bleach, jomax, powerwash. Painting is fine, if there is no tannin bleed, which there probably isn't.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

rfguy said:


> Hello All,
> I am new to the site and a newbe in the business. I am looking at what could be an easy job. Single story ranch with cedar bevel siding with cedar trim vinyl windows. The house is 18 years old and has been stained twice previously with Olympic latex stain. The chaulking and siding is in good shape however in some (like north exposure) areas siding has green like algae or on surface.
> I am considering a bleach water solution on these areas. There looks like there is a liitle mold in the exposed eves and will probably do same here. Any suggestions?
> 
> ...


Ok, no problem! What I would do is like you said, 50% water, 50% bleach and scrub clean the areas with mold/algea. Duckback wood cleaner can do this also, but is more expensive. I'd stick to the bleach/water. Let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then I would suggest using a good oil base primer to seal back everything, Cabot problem solver is the best on the market:http://www.cabotstain.com/products/...er.html?productTypeName=Exterior Surface Prep. Spray and back brush with a 517 or 417 tip size. Wait 24 hours to dry, then if you need to caulk, this is the best caulk on the market:http://www.sashcosealants.com/home_improvement/big_stretch.aspx. But if said you didn't need to caulk, then skip this part. Then after the caulk is dry, (next day) I would suggest two coats of an exellent 100 percent acyrlic low lustre finish. The best paint I have used is this:http://www.prattandlambert.com/pdf/product-data-sheets/8500.pdf. Pratt and Lambert pro hide gold eggshell. Decent price, should be around $28.00 per gallon for painter/contractors. Allow four hours dry time (minumum) between coats and be sure to at least spray and backbrush the first coat. Second could be just an even, lighter spray coat. But I would suggest to just use any good oil base primer, with an 100% acrylic high quality low lustre finish. One coat primer, two coats finish. If it's really soaking in, you could always do two coats primer, two coats finish. Good luck!!!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

hammerheart14 said:


> Ok, no problem! What I would do is like you said, 50% water, 50% bleach and scrub clean the areas with mold/algea. Duckback wood cleaner can do this also, but is more expensive. I'd stick to the bleach/water. Let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then I would suggest using a good oil base primer to seal back everything, Cabot problem solver is the best on the market:http://www.cabotstain.com/products/...er.html?productTypeName=Exterior Surface Prep. Spray and back brush with a 517 or 417 tip size. Wait 24 hours to dry, then if you need to caulk, this is the best caulk on the market:http://www.sashcosealants.com/home_improvement/big_stretch.aspx. But if said you didn't need to caulk, then skip this part. Then after the caulk is dry, (next day) I would suggest two coats of an exellent 100 percent acyrlic low lustre finish. The best paint I have used is this:http://www.prattandlambert.com/pdf/product-data-sheets/8500.pdf. Pratt and Lambert pro hide gold eggshell. Decent price, should be around $28.00 per gallon for painter/contractors. Allow four hours dry time (minumum) between coats and be sure to at least spray and backbrush the first coat. Second could be just an even, lighter spray coat. But I would suggest to just use any good oil base primer, with an 100% acrylic high quality low lustre finish. One coat primer, two coats finish. If it's really soaking in, you could always do two coats primer, two coats finish. Good luck!!!



Close, but the OP said it has been painted at least twice. There is no need for a prime coat, let alone two, unless there are very worn or damaged/peeling areas.....or tannin bleed. Aura, Duration....or any other quality topcoat would be sufficient.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

NCPaint1 said:


> Close, but the OP said it has been painted at least twice. There is no need for a prime coat, let alone two, unless there are very worn or damaged/peeling areas.....or tannin bleed. Aura, Duration....or any other quality topcoat would be sufficient.


Agreed.


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## i painter (Mar 14, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> Close, but the OP said it has been painted at least twice. There is no need for a prime coat, let alone two, unless there are very worn or damaged/peeling areas.....or tannin bleed. Aura, Duration....or any other quality topcoat would be sufficient.


I guess there's no convincing some people.


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> Close, but the OP said it has been painted at least twice. There is no need for a prime coat, let alone two, unless there are very worn or damaged/peeling areas.....or tannin bleed. Aura, Duration....or any other quality topcoat would be sufficient.


I agree as well.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

RPS said:


> I agree as well.


I disagree. Throw one one coat primer, then once coat finish. You get two coats, and the primer is cheaper than paint and you create a better bonding surface. Trust me, this way works.


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

I would only spot prime at most if the house was in good condition, maybe around the bottoms of the garage door trim or other places where the wood may have taken a little damage. To me primer is a bonding agent and not a substitute for a coat of paint. If it is new wood or peeling then I will prime, if I am going over a coating that is still solid then I will just wash and paint. Using an oil primer seems like it would be a waste, if I was determined to prime I would use a latex because the stain has already penetrated the wood.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

actually, if it's in good/great shape, no peeling, and a solid acrylic stain was used, throw on another coat or two of cabot pro v.t. solid acyrlic stain. the stuff goes on like butter.


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

I never put butter on a house. It's just weird. And what would the ho think?


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

RPS said:


> I never put butter on a house. It's just weird. And what would the ho think?


why don't you apply with toast, smart ass.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

hammerheart14 said:


> I disagree. Throw one one coat primer, then once coat finish. You get two coats, and the primer is cheaper than paint and you create a better bonding surface. Trust me, this way works.


 
There you go again, you're way or its wrong, get a life. You are NOT the painting GOD, even if you're father ,grand father, uncle Dan and everyone else in the family history were painters, does NOT make you right about everything. Stop spouting off about your superior knowledge to all of us peons and you might be believable.:yes:


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

hammerheart14 said:


> why don't you apply with toast, smart ass.


 Now that helps!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

chrisn said:


> even if you're father ,grand father, uncle Dan and everyone else in the family history were painters, does NOT make you right about everything


My dad can beat up your dad :yes:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> My dad can beat up your dad :yes:


thats funny.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

chrisn said:


> There you go again, you're way or its wrong, get a life. You are NOT the painting GOD, even if you're father ,grand father, uncle Dan and everyone else in the family history were painters, does NOT make you right about everything. Stop spouting off about your superior knowledge to all of us peons and you might be believable.:yes:


sorry, i really could care less what you think of me. if the prior paint or acrylic stain job is not in good shape, and a coat of paint is desired, priming is ALWAYS NECESSARY FOR EXTERIORS! Sorry if you are not skilled enough to understand this. in fact, since this thread has been lead too far astray, I have no ****ing idea what it was originally about anymore. so i'm over this thread!


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> thats funny.


not really. he could have done better.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> My dad can beat up your dad :yes:


 
I certainly hope so,he has been DEAD for 35 years.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

hammerheart14 said:


> sorry, i really could care less what you think of me. if the prior paint or acrylic stain job is not in good shape, and a coat of paint is desired, priming is ALWAYS NECESSARY FOR EXTERIORS! Sorry if you are not skilled enough to understand this. in fact, since this thread has been lead too far astray, I have no ****ing idea what it was originally about anymore. so i'm over this thread!


Look here sonny, I have forgotten more skill than you have at the moment, get real:whistling2:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Yo J-Rod

Dont be dissin on Nelly. Remember what we talked about. Your back to posting some foul stuff yo.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

This thread feels not as amicable as one might hope. Lets persevere, and remember to bring forth our best in all endeavors. Lets walk closer to our loftiest sentiments of respect, courtesy, and liberty to our other Paint Talk members.

Unless you feel a burning desire to prove something, at any cost.


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