# Capspray 95



## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

SW Rep offered me a pretty good price on a Capspray 95, but before I jump into it I wanted to get some feedback. I currently use an airless with FF tip for trim, doors and cabinets with either ProClassic or Multi Surface Acrylic paints. I'm also looking at the WB Alkyd Urethane Enamel as another top coat option for an upcoming cabinet project. The appeal of the HVLP is reduced overspray, more forgiveness when spraying in tight areas, and not having to use 1/2 a gallon just to fill the line of my airless. I've read through other posts and understand that a lot of you don't like running paints through their HVLP, which contradicts what the manufacturer claims the unit can do. Why is this? Is it really just a waste of money to invest in the HVLP if I'm not spraying stains and lacquers?


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

I bought a brand new 115 for the same thing you are considering it for. Some painters love them. I hated it. It was a big waste of money for me.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

007 Dave said:


> I bought a brand new 115 for the same thing you are considering it for. Some painters love them. I hated it. It was a big waste of money for me.




Why? Did it slow you down too much? Finish wasn't up to par? Don't like working a quart at a time?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

The only time I use them is for when I just can't see buying a gallon of something to do a tiny project or one door, if I have to do some toning with lacquer, or a while back used to shoot speed-e-coat xylene based enamel on doors for quick dry and rehang time.

Couldn't imagine trying to do cabinets or trim ever with one. I can get extremely consistent and fine quality results with the airless. It might be dialed in but could change through the process due to build up or having to thin another batch of paint.


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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

MurphysPaint said:


> Why? Did it slow you down too much? Finish wasn't up to par? Don't like working a quart at a time?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got mine to spray interior trim and cabinets. I only sprayed Pro Classic thru it. and I had to thin it more than I wanted to for the capspray to work good. It did not work the way the salesman from Titan told me it would work. I will be the first to tell you I'm not the best skilled spay man that some are on here so it could have just been me. I can not see me ever buying another capspray.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

My view is the same as ridesarize. It's a handy tool to have for small things and stuff like wrought iron, etc. I can't imagine using it for a whole set of kitchen cabs, it's just too slow. It's not going to improve on the finish of an airless with FF tips enough to justify the change, if it improves at all. And when you consider how much the material has to be thinned to make it work, the final product may not not be as good unless you're willing to do more coats than normal.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I thought about it for a while. I did end up getting a Titan Aircoat (Left one) but it was free so I took it. I have yet to use it.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

I was vaguely aware of the issues people have with HVLP but I'm a little surprised that not one person among us has a differing view. Most people that I've talked to who don't have an HVLP all want one, but it would appear that the grass isn't always greener on the other side. 


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> I was vaguely aware of the issues people have with HVLP but I'm a little surprised that not one person among us has a differing view. Most people that I've talked to who don't have an HVLP all want one, but it would appear that the grass isn't always greener on the other side.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a cupgun and 60 gallon air compressor we used to use until we bought the Graco 395 FP. I like this bigger unit only because of the gun and how much easier it is to maneuver around tight spots. Yes these machines are big, heavy and bulky.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

A hvlp is all I use for cabinet projects. Even with an air assist there is to much prep and over spray. Most of the cabinets around my area are oak and the boxes can be brushed and mohair weenie rolled and spray the fronts. I usually get enough paint thinned for the whole project so consistency from quart to quart fill up is the same.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

kmp said:


> A hvlp is all I use for cabinet projects. Even with an air assist there is to much prep and over spray. Most of the cabinets around my area are oak and the boxes can be brushed and mohair weenie rolled and spray the fronts. I usually get enough paint thinned for the whole project so consistency from quart to quart fill up is the same.




Do you use a clear over your paint?


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> Most people that I've talked to who don't have an HVLP all want one, but it would appear that the grass isn't always greener on the other side.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's not necessarily that the grass is alive or dead or greener. 

*It's a tool.
*
So you use it when you need that tool. I.e. the situation arises and you use the right thing. 

As another poster mentioned earlier in the thread, it's great for shading/toning and spraying small objects, doing detail work, etc. It isn't really designed to spray large jobs. You wouldn't spray a whole house with it, 2,000 + sqft of sheetrock. Doesn't mean it isn't a good tool to have, just not in that particular situation.

In all honest, I doubt your rep is going to give you a new cap95 for under $1,000 (U.S. money). So in that case, knowing the prices of things, I would opt for a Fine Finish sprayer (AAA). Especially if your starting out or you don't have any fine finish equipment. 

If your starting off, a AAA (air assisted airless) sprayer is a great unit to have. The reason being, as I've detailed many times over, is that it can spray in both airless mode and air assisted mode. Giving you essentially 2 units for 'the price of one'. 

You can spray large portions of sheetrock (if need be) a whole room. Garage doors, etc. OR you can do more detailed work and spray clear/paint on cabinets/trim/doors/etc. 

Nutshell: I'll tell you this much though, any*** HVLP is going to struggle spraying paint, raw undiluted. Most can't and a capspray 95 is definitely not going to be able to do it. 
Which means your going to have to dilute your paint which means more coats/more time. If diluted too much, you might end up altering the color as well during the process. Which will make touch-ups much more difficult.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

woodcoyote said:


> It's not necessarily that the grass is alive or dead or greener.
> 
> *It's a tool.
> *
> ...




Very good points. I already have an airless for priming/ceilings, and I have a ProShot FF which I use for doors and trim. An HVLP would be strictly for small items, primarily cabinets. 

I know thinning the paint would be necessary to shoot it through an HVLP, but from what I've been lead to believe it isn't so much that it should affect the integrity of the finish. I can't speak from experience though.

I've also come to find that a painted finish alone isn't durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of an average family kitchen, so I'd like to start adding a waterborne clear to protect the painted finish.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

MurphysPaint said:


> Very good points. I already have an airless for priming/ceilings, and I have a ProShot FF which I use for doors and trim. An HVLP would be strictly for small items, primarily cabinets.
> 
> I know thinning the paint would be necessary to shoot it through an HVLP, but from what I've been lead to believe it isn't so much that it should affect the integrity of the finish. I can't speak from experience though.
> 
> I've also come to find that a painted finish alone isn't durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of an average family kitchen, so I'd like to start adding a waterborne clear to protect the painted finish.


Be careful using a waterbased poly topcoat. It can cause discoloration. I haven't personally experienced this but I've heard a number of stories.

Remember that with a turbine HVLP once that thing spools up that's all the power you get. I know you recognize that thinning the paint is necessary but I think it's worth emphasizing that it is you only option you have.

It might be old school but for fine finish work I still prefer pressure pots. It means hauling a decent size compressor but I prefer to be able to control the air, material, and fan. The variety of aircaps and fluid sections gives many options. Plus the finish quality is exceptional.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> I know thinning the paint would be necessary to shoot it through an HVLP, but from what I've been lead to believe it isn't so much that it should affect the integrity of the finish. I can't speak from experience though.


Let me ask you this: What do you think the HVLP will do for you? 

I.e. If you were to buy it...what are your hopes that this unit will do? 


Another option, ask your SW rep to get ahold of the Titan or Graco rep. Usually they are regional reps and tend to travel a lot. Ask when he/she will be around and can demo the units to you. If you have a ProShow coming up, then ask if they can bring a unit so you can see/test it. 

P.S. Bring your own cabinet door or what not to spray on. I never let them use their own display unless it's worth it. My graco rep lets me test units on whatever I want from stucco walls to cabinetry. Of course the end result if it works...is a sale..for him lol.

Another option is this: Get the number for your trade rep (graco/titan) and call them directly. Sometimes the SW guys get bogged down with day to day things and won't get around to your request for a bit. Shouldn't be a problem as they hand out their cards/contact info during the ProShows. They'll have all the info or know how to get it. Then you can maybe arrange something directly with the trade rep.


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## msucro (Apr 5, 2012)

We have a Capspray 105 and a 655ED airless (for lacquer). The capspray isn't much good for heavier bodied material without thinning. We use it mostly for applying toner because the pattern is wide and material comes out more slowly than airless so it's a bit easier to control millage. It's also good for spraying railings and things that need a very narrow fan.

It worked great for repainting one of the comapny vans too!


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

woodcoyote said:


> Let me ask you this: What do you think the HVLP will do for you?
> 
> I.e. If you were to buy it...what are your hopes that this unit will do?
> 
> ...




I am hoping the HVLP will allow me to spray a set of cabinet doors without having a layer of overspray caked to the floor of my booth. I'm hoping it will allow me to slow things down and have better control over the coverage on fine finish projects. I'm hoping it will reduce masking time and materials. I'm hoping it will eliminate blow outs. I'm hoping it will allow me to spray railings and balustrades without sending a gallon of finish into the air. I'm hoping that it will reduce the amount of airborne particulates resulting in a better finish, especially when working in tight spaces. I'm hoping that it will be easier to switch products when compared to my airless. I'm hoping I can spray oil based products when required, which I will not do with my airless. Other than that I haven't given it much thought, which is why I appreciate all the feedback.

Doing a demo is a great idea, I will see if I can get that set up in a reasonable time. I'm in a smaller city, so the reps don't usually frequent my area.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

woodcoyote said:


> Let me ask you this: What do you think the HVLP will do for you?
> 
> I.e. If you were to buy it...what are your hopes that this unit will do?
> 
> ...


Hopefully he has more luck contacting Titan reps unlike me. After almost 2 years and still calling our Titan rep about our other sprayers they have yet to even try to call me or email me back. I will never buy Titan new again. Graco the rep was great, explained a lot about the different sprayers they offer. We ended up buying the 395 FP. I'm also looking to replace our Titan Advantage 700 with a Graco this summer.

Might be selling off all of our Titan sprayers soon.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

cdpainting said:


> Hopefully he has more luck contacting Titan reps unlike me. After almost 2 years and still calling our Titan rep about our other sprayers they have yet to even try to call me or email me back. I will never buy Titan new again. Graco the rep was great, explained a lot about the different sprayers they offer. We ended up buying the 395 FP. I'm also looking to replace our Titan Advantage 700 with a Graco this summer.
> 
> 
> 
> Might be selling off all of our Titan sprayers soon.




I've never dealt with titan as all my sprayers right now are graco, but my experience with graco rep has been equally frustrating. Still waiting for the free tips I was supposed to get from a sprayer I bought in 2015.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

PRC said:


> Be careful using a waterbased poly topcoat. It can cause discoloration. I haven't personally experienced this but I've heard a number of stories.
> 
> Remember that with a turbine HVLP once that thing spools up that's all the power you get. I know you recognize that thinning the paint is necessary but I think it's worth emphasizing that it is you only option you have.
> 
> It might be old school but for fine finish work I still prefer pressure pots. It means hauling a decent size compressor but I prefer to be able to control the air, material, and fan. The variety of aircaps and fluid sections gives many options. Plus the finish quality is exceptional.




I suppose that the turbine unit is more appealing than lugging around a compressor and dealing with moisture in the line, but maybe it's not worth the convenience. The idea of more control options is certainly a good one.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> I am hoping the HVLP will allow me to spray a set of cabinet doors without having a layer of overspray caked to the floor of my booth. I'm hoping it will allow me to slow things down and have better control over the coverage on fine finish projects. I'm hoping it will reduce masking time and materials. I'm hoping it will eliminate blow outs. I'm hoping it will allow me to spray railings and balustrades without sending a gallon of finish into the air. I'm hoping that it will reduce the amount of airborne particulates resulting in a better finish, especially when working in tight spaces. I'm hoping that it will be easier to switch products when compared to my airless. I'm hoping I can spray oil based products when required, which I will not do with my airless. Other than that I haven't given it much thought, which is why I appreciate all the feedback.
> 
> Doing a demo is a great idea, I will see if I can get that set up in a reasonable time. I'm in a smaller city, so the reps don't usually frequent my area.


Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material. 

I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish. 

But from what you describe it sounds like an HVLP is indeed something that you would probably be needing. Switching over from oil/water is easier...but it requires cleaning.

Note: You *MUST** clean the HVLP gun really well for it to function good in anyway. If ours has some build-up or lacquers which eat the gaskets up, it likes to screw up the spraying and you have tons of down time trying to clean the thing. The airlets have to be cleaned, the intake tube has to be cleaned, etc. It's not a gun/unit that you can just forget about for two days or have tons of paint build-up on and think it'll just blow it all out and work just fine on the next job.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

woodcoyote said:


> Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material.
> 
> I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish.
> 
> ...




That's a good point. I'm meticulous with my airless (most of the time) but I can see how it would be even more crucial with the HVLP. 


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I have the Titan 95. When it was purchased it was used to paint new construction exterior doors. We always used fast dry acrylic thinned with xylene. Works great for that. I've used it to prime raw wood with zinsser BIN shellac. Also a great use for. 

I "tried" spraying thinned oil primer through it with little success. I bought an extra cap spray needle assembly with a bigger orifice which helped but wasn't the answer by any means. 

Moral of the story. Air from a turbine can only atomize paint with the viscosity of water. 😀 That's why the airless sprayer was invented. Lol. 

I'm with whoever suggested the AAA. That thing is the best of both worlds. I'm convinced it pays for itself just in the amount of paint saved. The transfer efficiency is phenomenal. However, it doesn't solve the problem of quart sized projects, or switching back and forth between solvents and latex. 

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## 007 Dave (Jun 22, 2016)

cdpainting said:


> Hopefully he has more luck contacting Titan reps unlike me. After almost 2 years and still calling our Titan rep about our other sprayers they have yet to even try to call me or email me back. I will never buy Titan new again. Graco the rep was great, explained a lot about the different sprayers they offer. We ended up buying the 395 FP. I'm also looking to replace our Titan Advantage 700 with a Graco this summer.
> 
> Might be selling off all of our Titan sprayers soon.


I'm with you. I am most likely done with Titan. I have a 440 and I do like it. But the rep that sold me my Capspray did all the right things for me to buy it. But when I let him know how unhappy I was with it and told him its not doing what I bought it for. He couldn't help me. I went as far to ask him If he would check to see what he could give me for it on a trade in for a AAA sprayer. He didn't even check he said Sorry I can't help you on that one. So Graco, Here I come.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

Here's an update of my situation. I purchased the Capspray 95 for $1400 CAD (about $1040 USD).
Current project is applying a clear coat to an oak balustrade and safety railing, a pine feature wall and a wooden mantle. I have run tests with Varathane Professional Clear WB finish (unthinned) with excellent results. 










Working with an HVLP certainly has a larger than expected learning curve but I've been methodical with my testing and am getting the hang of it. Anyway, still tons to learn, more coatings to experiment with, and I will continue to share my feedback and results.

Thanks everyone for your valuable input.

Edit : the sample wood is scrap from the lumber yard and does have a slight texture from the saw. I didn't want to go nuts with the sanding.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity. 

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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

AngieM said:


> Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity.
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk




Do I look like the kind of girl who snags her panty hose? Na-uh.

Luckily the Capspray came with a viscosity cup. I tested the poly before applying, took notes of every application and labelled all my sample boards. I'm going to get this down to a science. Bonus is that I am actually having a lot of fun running the tests.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I meant your wife/ girlfriend / or date's panty hose :-D

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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Speaking of panty hose.:devil3:

Buy the knee high. Those will stretch around a 1-gallon bucket to strain paint. (Ankle high won't) But with the knee high, tie a knot about half way up, cut off the excess and use the upper portion for the gallon bucket strainer. Save the other end and use for a quart cup strainer. 

I feel like I just wrote a tip for "Hints From Heloise". :glasses:


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

First job with the new capspray. It's already earning it's purchase price and I'm loving it!


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## harmonpa (Dec 20, 2015)

For larger projects with wood finishes the air assist airless has a lot of merit. It sprays like airless but you use lower pressures which saves paint. On paper airless is about 40% efficient and air assist/ HVLP is about 65% efficient. But the HVLP will be better than AAA with smaller targets because you can cheat the fan pattern down a lot. If you have an airless and a compressed air source you can buy an air assist airless gun and connect it with your airless (just make sure its rated for the right psi of your airless). Heres a guide on using airless as an air assist airless.


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## harmonpa (Dec 20, 2015)

Glad the capspray is working well righting down your viscosities and air pressures used helps a lot. Typically HVLP loves paints in the 20 - 30 second range in a Zahn 2 cup.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

harmonpa said:


> For larger projects with wood finishes the air assist airless has a lot of merit. It sprays like airless but you use lower pressures which saves paint. On paper airless is about 40% efficient and air assist/ HVLP is about 65% efficient. But the HVLP will be better than AAA with smaller targets because you can cheat the fan pattern down a lot. If you have an airless and a compressed air source you can buy an air assist airless gun and connect it with your airless (just make sure its rated for the right psi of your airless). Heres a guide on using airless as an air assist airless.




Super intriguing. Have you used this Frankensprayer before? I'm really interested in knowing how this worked out.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

I finally got my hands on the wastebased Alkyd Urethane Enamel and just completed my first set of tests. Unthinned it didn't even make it out of the viscosity cup, after 8 minutes I called it a DNF. I thinned it 33% and it laid out absolutely gorgeous. Even the tests where I increased fluid volume, resulting in significant orange peel in the wet film, levelled out perfectly. I'm going to let the samples cure for 1 week and then test adhesion. All tests were done on primed wood and were checked for adequate wet film thickness according to manufacturer specs.










Also noteable:

After drying less than two hours I can't scratch it if with my fingernail. Will still conduct proper adhesion test in one week, but this is a good sign.

There was no impact on the colour as a result of the thinning.










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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

You'll like the HVLP for sure, especially looking at some of the projects your doing/posted. That's right up the HVLP's alley. 

Something for you to research once you get the hang of things and depending on the type/number of projects you do is the remote cup system Titan makes. 

When I bought our 115 capspray I went kinda all out and got the whole shebang. Got the remote pump, dual guns, etc. Set me back around $2,200 or so, can't remember the exact number, but I have yet to use the remote pump. Still sitting in the box, one day I'll get around to it. 

Long story short: It's suppose to help you keep spraying longer for longer periods of time, because you eliminate the cup and pump directly from a material hose. You can also spray in more positions because you have the cup eliminated. 

Anyway, just a possible tidbit for you to take a look into whenever you get a chance, might be worthwhile for what you do...who knows.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

woodcoyote said:


> You'll like the HVLP for sure, especially looking at some of the projects your doing/posted. That's right up the HVLP's alley.
> 
> Something for you to research once you get the hang of things and depending on the type/number of projects you do is the remote cup system Titan makes.
> 
> ...




I have seen this accessory and I do think it would be handy for sure. Probably will pick one up next time I have one of those tight areas to spray. I remember years ago when I started my business I just knew my tool costs were going to be minimal compared to other trades... 


Murph


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MurphysPaint said:


> I remember years ago when I started my business I just knew my tool costs were going to be minimal compared to other trades...
> Murph


I hear you there. I wish that was the case, but painters seem to have a good amount of tools and if you run a decent sizes business or have several employees it goes higher up because now you have to buy 3 or 4 of everything (rollers, cages, pans, etc.).

When it comes to machines the paint industry has tons, not many framers have to spend $1,500+ to get a machine to do work. Saws and compressors can be had for a couple hundred. Same with tile guys, etc., not very much high costs associated with the business. The only ones I can think of are insulators and maybe tapers (bazookas, etc.).

Can't wait to get the new Big Rig 933 with upgrades, that'll send me back a pretty penny. $9k+ lain::blink::yes:


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

woodcoyote said:


> I hear you there. I wish that was the case, but painters seem to have a good amount of tools and if you run a decent sizes business or have several employees it goes higher up because now you have to buy 3 or 4 of everything (rollers, cages, pans, etc.).
> 
> When it comes to machines the paint industry has tons, not many framers have to spend $1,500+ to get a machine to do work. Saws and compressors can be had for a couple hundred. Same with tile guys, etc., not very much high costs associated with the business. The only ones I can think of are insulators and maybe tapers (bazookas, etc.).
> 
> Can't wait to get the new Big Rig 933 with upgrades, that'll send me back a pretty penny. $9k+ lain::blink::yes:




I will admit that we have the coolest stuff, so I'm not going to complain.


Murph


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

Test boards passed adhesion test. I can feel comfortable using this system on cabinets, doors, trims, etc. 

My test used SW Extreme Bond primer on scrap pine. After 24 hrs, light sand before applying two coats of SW Waterbased Alkyd Urethane Enamel, 4 mil WFT per coat, 24 hrs between coats.

Next I will be topcoating these boards with a few different waterborne clears, by General Finishes and Varathane.


Murph


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