# PVA Primer for new drywall



## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

PVA -vs- SW Pro Plaster on New Construction Drywall? 

Are they the same, or are they different? Better, worse? 
Can someone give me the skinny on this? 

Bidding out a New Construction Spray: 
New Plaster Primer and (x)2 coats eggshell paint (ProMar 200)

Backroll all coats -vs- backroll some -vs- backroll none (opinions)?


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Think many here will recommend against using PVA primers these days. So many others now available which are much better.


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## SS_painting (Jan 11, 2020)

I've never been a fan of PVA, always used solid products like X-pert from dulux, or master hide from Cloverdale paint

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> PVA -vs- SW Pro Plaster on New Construction Drywall?
> 
> Are they the same, or are they different? Better, worse?
> Can someone give me the skinny on this?
> ...


How much board are we talking? Is an extra $20/5er gonna break the bank.?
I personally backroll everything.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

finishesbykevyn said:


> How much board are we talking? Is an extra $20/5er gonna break the bank.?
> I personally backroll everything.



better materials maybe cost more per gallon but at the end up the day you use vastly less product and you don't fuss with them as much. Labor is $$$.



PVA? Just no.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

It's unanimous, PVA is out. Wonder why they make it anymore? 

I question whether it is worth it to use higher quality paint when being sprayed? 
Will ProMar 200 be much different from Cashmere when sprayed and bankrolled?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Holland said:


> It's unanimous, PVA is out. Wonder why they make it anymore?
> 
> I question whether it is worth it to use higher quality paint when being sprayed?
> Will ProMar 200 be much different from Cashmere when sprayed and bankrolled?


PVA (Poly Vinyl Acrylic) is the ingredient found in most of your popular bare drywall specific primers. It's the original PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) that has become obsolete.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Cashmere is a much better product .


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Holland said:


> It's unanimous, PVA is out. Wonder why they make it anymore?
> 
> I question whether it is worth it to use higher quality paint when being sprayed?
> Will ProMar 200 be much different from Cashmere when sprayed and bankrolled?



An experience I had recently switching a customer from promar200 over to 253 + regal was that they were still using their material estimates from SW products. No joke when all said and done they had 20% materials left over. It may sound insignificant on the whole to have some extra left over BUT that means that they were _applying _20% less primer and paint coats. That adds up to a lot of hours.


Some people learn their lesson, some people even have experienced it first hand are still stuck on the price/gallon fallacy. As for why PVA is still manufactured? The companies that make and sell PVA by the pallet are making huge margins because there are contractors out their who swear with a sailors mouth about how crap their paint is but continue to buy it anyway because they get a 'good deal' on it.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

CApainter said:


> PVA (Poly Vinyl Acrylic) is the ingredient found in most of your popular bare drywall specific primers. It's the original PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) that has become obsolete.


got it, thanks. 
So PVA is now Poly Vinyl Acrylic? Not a problem using this if labeled as such?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

We only have two paint stores in the areas, and if the GC tells me to use SW, that's what I do. For the most part I don't pay attention to the /gallon price. 

Please convince me it makes a difference ~when spraying~ to use a more expensive paint.

After the new drywall mud is sealed and back-rolled, it seems like the difference would be nominal spraying two coats of ProMar 200 or 2 coats of Cashmere (for example). Maybe the slightly longer drying time of Cashmere would make a difference, but I can't imagine I would use much more or less when spraying two thin (standard) coats. 

Hard to justify the cost for a similar end result, but again, please convince me otherwise. 
When rolling, the difference is obvious, but spraying...I'm not sure.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Holland said:


> got it, thanks.
> So PVA is now Poly Vinyl Acrylic? Not a problem using this if labeled as such?


It's always best to use a substrate specific primer. The PVAc seems to be the ingredient of choice for many of the easily accessible drywall primers I've seen. You'd have to confirm this with the experts in the supply field like cocomonkeynuts, PACman, or others.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> We only have two paint stores in the areas, and if the GC tells me to use SW, that's what I do. For the most part I don't pay attention to the /gallon price.
> 
> Please convince me it makes a difference ~when spraying~ to use a more expensive paint.
> 
> ...


i'm not sure you would get any more milage from one paint over another. Just coverage and quality. Depends on the colour. Mosts paints would cover over a good white primer in 2 coats, sprayed or rolled.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> i'm not sure you would get any more milage from one paint over another. Just coverage and quality. Depends on the colour. Mosts paints would cover over a good white primer in 2 coats, sprayed or rolled.


Aesthetic White.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Pro Mar has two things that suck about it: Its tendency to hatband, and the eggshell will NOT touch up. Hatbanding can happen during spray and backroll too! I've seen all the corners and ceiling lines be a different color than the walls where the roller could squeeze in. Bad enough to have to repaint.... For that reason alone, I would step to minimum superpaint, if not cashmere if it were in the budget.

Your not gonna get hatbanding with a white though....


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Pro Mar has two things that suck about it: Its tendency to hatband, and the eggshell will NOT touch up. Hatbanding can happen during spray and backroll too! I've seen all the corners and ceiling lines be a different color than the walls where the roller could squeeze in. Bad enough to have to repaint.... For that reason alone, I would step to minimum superpaint, if not cashmere if it were in the budget.
> 
> Your not gonna get hatbanding with a white though....


 @Woodco, 

Thank you. That was the info I was looking for.


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## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

Holland said:


> It's unanimous, PVA is out. Wonder why they make it anymore?
> 
> I question whether it is worth it to use higher quality paint when being sprayed?
> Will ProMar 200 be much different from Cashmere when sprayed and bankrolled?



Well since you mentioned Cashmere specifically - technically I think of Cashmere as a specialty paint, that stays on the wall without running but still levels and flows well. That's what gives it that smooth finish. So in the specific case you mentioned, whenever you finish with a roller, Cashmere is likely to look different than most other paints. If you had said ProMar 200 vs. some other standard quality paint, I'd say no - not much different.


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## jeffnc (Mar 14, 2011)

Woodco said:


> Pro Mar has two things that suck about it: Its tendency to hatband, and the eggshell will NOT touch up.



You're talking about 200 specifically? I never noticed any hatbanding myself. I also don't recall any eggshell touchup problems, but I also can't remember the last time I did that with 200, so....


Anyway, not trying to be pedantic because you might be just talking in context, but technically there is a big difference between 200 and 700, as I'm 

sure you know.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

jeffnc said:


> You're talking about 200 specifically? I never noticed any hatbanding myself. I also don't recall any eggshell touchup problems, but I also can't remember the last time I did that with 200, so....
> 
> 
> Anyway, not trying to be pedantic because you might be just talking in context, but technically there is a big difference between 200 and 700, as I'm
> ...


yes, it was written in context- whether to use 200 as the lowest grade option, or bumping up to a better quality paint. 700 is garbage imo.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> You're talking about 200 specifically? I never noticed any hatbanding myself. I also don't recall any eggshell touchup problems, but I also can't remember the last time I did that with 200, so....
> 
> 
> Anyway, not trying to be pedantic because you might be just talking in context, but technically there is a big difference between 200 and 700, as I'm
> ...


Im referring to 200, but obviously that goes down the line as well. I dont know what it is. Half of all pro painters hate the stuff, and have but problems every time they use it, and half dont notice any. Theres no in between though..


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> You're talking about 200 specifically? I never noticed any hatbanding myself. I also don't recall any eggshell touchup problems, but I also can't remember the last time I did that with 200, so....
> 
> 
> Anyway, not trying to be pedantic because you might be just talking in context, but technically there is a big difference between 200 and 700, as I'm
> ...


Im referring to 200. I dont know what it is. Half of all pro painters hate the stuff, and have but problems every time they use it, and half dont notice any. Theres no in between though...


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