# Why backroll ?



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Visited some old OLD friends tonight. One of my old painting partners was there. (just for reference, some may remember him from this pict from back in the 80's









And we gots to talking about spraying and such.

ANYWAY, to clear up a question about application we discussed: what is the purpose of back rolling - both for interior and exterior work. 

(You all know I been hanging paper since 1990 and never sprayed, so I am clueless)


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

daArch said:


> Visited some old OLD friends tonight. One of my old painting partners was there. (just for reference, some may remember him from this pict from back in the 80's
> View attachment 25980
> 
> 
> ...


I think you just enjoy watching us all bicker and debate one another so you can then impart your wit and wisdom upon us all again.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

On interiors, I can spray pretty darn even and know how to overlap so to make spray patterns consistent. We have some serious textures on some jobs though, and for raw texture, it helps immensely to backroll the primer into the texture so it absorbs evenly and knocks it down to a level playing field.
I also backroll the finish for the same reasons. On some cheaper specced jobs though, many people have just sprayed over that texture... I learned how to do new construction without backrolling but it's better to do it.
When priming walls before texture though (over raw gwb and mud) I prefer to just spray very evenly because I can leave the correct millage without leaving the see through roller stipple. The primer just kind of slides around on the gwb and it's trickier to backroll at that point anyways.
After primer, the drywaller would texture, then I would prime again and backroll, then finish the next day.

On some smooth wall jobs, many people also backroll to get a mostly guaranteed even finish (if the backroller knows what he is doing).. I have though, opted to only spray some smooth wall finsihes because I am good at spraying. I picked up the gun 2 weeks into painting and that was 17 years ago. You have to know how to not leave patterns, heavies , or fan edges. 

Exterior, it's always better to work a product into the wood cells to get a cohesive bond. Also the spray pattern thing, also lots of siding is textured like around here we have rough plywood t-111, or cedar lp siding that need all those wood fibers to be wrapped in paint. Wrap it good.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I have worked with backrollers that were absolutely counter productive and ruin the flow of a paint team. Seen some that switch their pattern every other couple feet and don't even realize it. I go " see what happened there, you left that spot way heavier then right next to it because you changed up your pattern" or "Over here you rolled up on the last stroke, then here you rolled down on the last stroke" and they're going "huh? I did the same thing all the way across". "Nope"


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

ridesarize said:


> I have worked with backrollers that were absolutely counter productive and ruin the flow of a paint team. Seen some that switch their pattern every other couple feet and don't even realize it. I go " see what happened there, you left that spot way heavier then right next to it because you changed up your pattern" or "Over here you rolled up on the last stroke, then here you rolled down on the last stroke" and they're going "huh? I did the same thing all the way across". "Nope"


I only ever had a couple of blokes backroll for me when we did heaps of new work.......It's a trust thing lol


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

That's basically what we concluded.

Interior - for an even coverage/appearance

Exterior - to better work the paint into the surface


thanks


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Repaintpro said:


> I only ever had a couple of blokes backroll for me when we did heaps of new work.......It's a trust thing lol


When working with a backroller that hasn't worked with me before, I let them do a wall, or a room then I show them exactly what I'm looking for, learned to do that over the years. Then we be groovin'. And I tell them too, "If I need less paint or more paint just tell me." when we first start.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

ridesarize said:


> When working with a backroller that hasn't worked with me before, I let them do a wall, or a room then I show them exactly what I'm looking for, learned to do that over the years. Then we be groovin'. And I tell them too, "If I need less paint or more paint just tell me." when we first start.




Ha..............I remember my dad always saying......bit more or bit too wet! 

I also remember looking back at one guy I had not worked with much and his roller is skidding around all over the place because I was putting too much on for him. 


Arrrrr the pros and cons of new work!


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Repaintpro said:


> Ha..............I remember my dad always saying......bit more or bit too wet!
> 
> I also remember looking back at one guy I had not worked with much and his roller is skidding around all over the place because I was putting too much on for him.
> 
> ...


Let me guess, then you grab the roller and roll that stuff all the way sideways to spread it out and say" I put it on too heavy so I gotta roll it out." 
not that I've done that before ...:whistling2:


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

ridesarize said:


> Let me guess, then you grab the roller and roll that stuff all the way sideways to spread it out and say" I put it on too heavy so I gotta roll it out."
> not that I've done that before ...:whistling2:



Barhaha.......yep I have done that. Like, oh well I will just stop spraying till you have a dry roller again!


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> Visited some old OLD friends tonight. One of my old painting partners was there. (just for reference, some may remember him from this pict from back in the 80's
> View attachment 25980
> 
> 
> ...


Ya just want to stir the pot, dontchya?

Interior, we only backroll untextured new GWB. We do that to provide some stipple to hides the inevitable flaws in the taping job. 

Outside, we'll backroll ST stains and oil primers, but not topcoats or acrylic primers.

I certainly wish that I'd kept copies of the technical articles from some of the paint and coating journals when I researched this question a while ago. The upshot of it all was that, all things being equal, an exterior paint job applied solely by airless lasts longer than one that is sprayed and backrolled/ backbrushed. The coating scientists point was that the later manipulation of the paint film disrupts the drying process and leads to a weaker paint film.


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## Steve Richards (Dec 31, 2010)

Yup.
Real word experience..sprayed a (lap siding) house w/o backbrush. Moved into that house 5 years later and lived there 10 years. Paint was still fine when I left.

The exterior paint that is. Inside, we trashed the place.:thumbsup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Gough said:


> Ya just want to stir the pot, dontchya?
> 
> Interior, we only backroll untextured new GWB. We do that to provide some stipple to hides the inevitable flaws in the taping job.
> 
> ...


OK, so you WANT the stipple to hide inherent flaws found on GWB. 
Phil, the spattered painter in pict, was wondering WHY once you have a nice smooth finish would one want to stipple it. I can relate your reason to him. 

So, on a near perfect plaster skim coat, can I assume you do not backroll, unless, of course, the customer likes the slight stipple ?

Now as to disturbing the drying process, which I understand, can I assume if one were spraying the oils of the 70's & 80's , this would not have been an issue? (but who was spraying then - we did ONE, on stucco, but that was "latex" )


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

*Bicker and debate; Stirring the Pot ? ?? ! ! *

This has been extremely educational to me. thanks all


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> OK, so you WANT the stipple to hide inherent flaws found on GWB.
> Phil, the spattered painter in pict, was wondering WHY once you have a nice smooth finish would one want to stipple it. I can relate your reason to him.
> 
> So, on a near perfect plaster skim coat, can I assume you do not backroll, unless, of course, the customer likes the slight stipple ?
> ...


The only times we've encountered situations where the client or designer specified no backrolling have been for "lacquered" walls or ceilings. Fortunately, when that trend has become popular, it has fallen from favor quickly.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Gough said:


> Ya just want to stir the pot, dontchya?
> 
> Interior, we only backroll untextured new GWB. We do that to provide some stipple to hides the inevitable flaws in the taping job.
> 
> ...


Hey Gough, I think the statement about backbrushing ST or oil, but not acrylic, (or semi solid or solid stain) is just weird. I use stain all the time and see first-hand what it looks like when not backbrushed. If the one product needs backbrushing, so do the others. Doesn't take scientists to research that info. I may not have degrees or a company of my own, but have worked for many companies, learning and experiencing this stuff. Rough cedar, no matter what product, benefits tremendously from being backbrushed.
As far as manipulation of the paint surface... don't wait 5 minutes to backroll and double coat for a bulletproof coating. I sprayed and backrolled two coats on my own house. Never heard of not backrolling t-111 with wood grains and grooves to fill up.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Back roll on interior to create an even finish on flat or slightly textured walls. On exterior you only need to back roll on either hardi board, or new wood to push the paint into the pores and crevices of the wood. Or if you leave a heavy line/section when spraying your exterior top coat.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Did this house with arborcoat solid, two coats. When backbrushing it with a 6" brush, a nice gooey coat was left behind.
Still did 2 coats, and there is no way I would have sprayed and left it unbackbrushed.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

journeymanPainter said:


> Back roll on interior to create an even finish on flat or slightly textured walls. On exterior you only need to back roll on either hardi board, or new wood to push the paint into the pores and crevices of the wood. Or if you leave a heavy line/section when spraying your exterior top coat.


So your saying exterior repaints don't have pores, voids or texture anymore?
Hardi board, never backroll it, wow.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

daArch said:


> That's basically what we concluded.
> 
> Interior - for an even coverage/appearance


Back-rolling new drywall - creating stipple, makes touch-up less noticeable.



daArch said:


> That's basically what we concluded.
> 
> Exterior - to better work the paint into the surface.


Back-rolling exterior? I don't believe in this concept. If 100% coverage and penetration can not be achieved by spraying, I won't spray. *I will brush & roll the job. *


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ridesarize said:


> Hey Gough, I think the statement about backbrushing ST or oil, but not acrylic, (or semi solid or solid stain) is just weird. I use stain all the time and see first-hand what it looks like when not backbrushed. If the one product needs backbrushing, so do the others. Doesn't take scientists to research that info. I may not have degrees or a company of my own, but have worked for many companies, learning and experiencing this stuff. Rough cedar, no matter what product, benefits tremendously from being backbrushed.
> As far as manipulation of the paint surface... don't wait 5 minutes to backroll and double coat for a bulletproof coating. I sprayed and backrolled two coats on my own house. Never heard of not backrolling t-111 with wood grains and grooves to fill up.


Sorry for not being clearer, I can't remember the last time ( if ever) we sprayed SC or semi-solid, so I wasn't commenting about them. I probably should have clarified that I was talking about oil-based ST stains.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree about the comment, "if one product needs backbrushing, so do the others."


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Gough said:


> Sorry for not being clearer, I can't remember the last time ( if ever) we sprayed SC or semi-solid, so I wasn't commenting about them. I probably should have clarified that I was talking about oil-based ST stains.
> 
> I guess we'll have to agree to disagree about the comment, "if one product needs backbrushing, so do the others."


Yeah. I like discussing this.stuff, as long as sentiments don't get lost in translation. I've learned to try to write very specifically on paint talk that way apples get compared to apples..

You guys have rough siding where you live? Or no?.
If I'm working with rough plywood and battons, doesn't matter if I'm using acrylic or oil, or what opacity in my opinion. I do respect you, all you guys so thanks for the discussion.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

PaintersUnite said:


> Back-rolling new drywall - creating stipple, makes touch-up less noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> Back-rolling exterior? I don't believe in this concept. If 100% coverage and penetration can not be achieved by spraying, I won't spray. *I will brush & roll the job. *


Very interesting to say the least paintersunite. This statement makes me want to try to understand your situation. How old are ya?are you self taught, or trained by only one mentor? Is that an oldschool train of thought or do you only do spec homes, or only a certain type of siding?

If you had a large home to do, all cedar shakes with rough ply soffits, with Sikkens SRD, would you attemp to brush that instead of spray saturating and backbrushing? (I did one a fews years back, it was 40 gallons of stain)

If you had 400 ft of new cedar fence to do both sides, again with srd or another brand stain, would you spray only? Or just brush it all out? (Did one a month ago, it was 25 gallons of srd)

If you had to do a repaint color change to light color over grey semi solid shakes, whole house... bottom of shakes are rough/hairy... would you spray finish(or stain), or brush all finish?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

On ext I will backroll first coats on porous surfaces and no backroll on second coat.
On ext porous surfaces, backrolling will seal and push paint into cracks so it will look better and will protect against moisture intrusion better.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

ridesarize said:


> Very interesting to say the least paintersunite. This statement makes me want to try to understand your situation. How old are ya?are you self taught, or trained by only one mentor? Is that an oldschool train of thought or do you only do spec homes, or only a certain type of siding?


Painting since the late 70's and taught by many experienced pros.
My gig now, is manly interior work, only because I hate exterior work. 


ridesarize said:


> If you had a large home to do, all cedar shakes with rough ply soffits, with Sikkens SRD, would you attemp to brush that instead of spray saturating and backbrushing? (I did one a fews years back, it was 40 gallons of stain)


I'd have to see it. But I always used 1 1/4 inch nap rollers for raw exterior wood. If I couldn't get 100% of the surface painted by brush & roller, I would have no choice but to spray. But again, I'd have to see it. Also, I really don’t like to spray out doors due to all the prep and masking off. 


ridesarize said:


> If you had 400 ft of new cedar fence to do both sides, again with srd or another brand stain, would you spray only? Or just brush it all out? (Did one a month ago, it was 25 gallons of srd)


I would turn-down painting/staining a fence. I would tell the HO to hire a high school kid to paint it as a summer job. 


ridesarize said:


> If you had to do a repaint color change to light color over grey semi solid shakes, whole house... bottom of shakes are rough/hairy... would you spray finish(or stain), or brush all finish?


As I stated, I don't spray, then back brush. When you say back brush, you are referring to brushing minutes after spraying, while the stain is still wet - correct?


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

I have a fence job starting next week. I plan on spraying and back brushing first coat. The second coat would be spray only. Product is SW Woodscape solid stain to match trim on the house.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

PaintersUnite said:


> Painting since the late 70's and taught by many experienced pros.
> My gig now, is manly interior work, only because I hate exterior work.
> 
> I'd have to see it. But I always used 1 1/4 inch nap rollers for raw exterior wood. If I couldn't get 100% of the surface painted by brush & roller, I would have no choice but to spray. But again, I'd have to see it. Also, I really don’t like to spray out doors due to all the prep and masking off.
> ...


response to last quote (too lazy to delete previous ones. lol)

Backbrushing is a common necessity when wood has different porosity as is the case with weathered wood. Ive always been a laung haul kinda guy so I watch my work for months and years later and in the case of restains or old wood new stains (not previously painted) the need for backbrushing is critical to ingrain material into "thirsty" substrates. Always on the first coat, never on the second. Second coats are for uniformity. As for in the case of backbrushing with paint, its generally the same principle. You want the thirsty grains to be fully saturated so that you lock open pores. 

Dont believe its necessary? Spray a rough sided house a white and you will see "shadows". Backbrush first coat and you float the grains and the top coat equalizes appearance.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

PaintersUnite said:


> Painting since the late 70's and taught by many experienced pros.
> My gig now, is manly interior work, only because I hate exterior work.
> 
> I'd have to see it. But I always used 1 1/4 inch nap rollers for raw exterior wood. If I couldn't get 100% of the surface painted by brush & roller, I would have no choice but to spray. But again, I'd have to see it. Also, I really don’t like to spray out doors due to all the prep and masking off.
> ...


Backbrushing about 20 secs max after spraying with new wood and Sikkens SRD. Saturated. Impossible to evenly saturate a 2 story wall of thirsty cedar with any roller. Cedar shakes have open grain like straws on the faces, not just the bottom edge.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I'll try to upload pics soon.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

ridesarize said:


> Backbrushing about 20 secs max after spraying with new wood and Sikkens SRD. Saturated. *Impossible to evenly saturate a 2 story wall of thirsty cedar with any roller. *Cedar shakes have open grain like straws on the faces, not just the bottom edge.


If you guys like to spray and backroll, keep on doing what you are doing.

To paint this siding, I would use the following and the job would turn out looking like a million bucks. The sprayer would be in the truck. 

BTW - don't you cover the window 100% or are you that good?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

PaintersUnite said:


> If you guys like to spray and backroll, keep on doing what you are doing.
> 
> To paint this siding, I would use the following and the job would turn out looking like a million bucks. The sprayer would be in the truck.
> 
> BTW - don't you cover the window 100% or are you that good?


Ill answer for rider as if you were asking me... im that good. I used to cover the world like Sherwin Williams motto. time, trial and experience has taught me along the way. That prep on an exterior window is good enough. A spray man factors wind and spray direction. Its their job if they are good.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

Paradigmzz said:


> Ill answer for rider as if you were asking me... im that good. I used to cover the world like Sherwin Williams motto. time, trial and experience has taught me along the way. That prep on an exterior window is good enough. A spray man factors wind and spray direction. Its their job if they are good.


Good for you. :thumbsup:

Funny story. Years ago, a painting contractor hired me. On my first day, (at 8am), he had me up on a ladder, cleaning off over spray from his painters, who sprayed the T-111 siding the day before. The customer was pissed.

I cleaned off one window, then got in my car, and drove off into the sunset.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

PaintersUnite said:


> If you guys like to spray and backroll, keep on doing what you are doing.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - don't you cover the window 100% or are you that good?









When I was training to spray there was no masking windows. Shielded pretty much everything. It can certainly be done. I usually mask now days, it's just less stressful. 

I like spray/back brush over hand application simply because I don't want to have to transfer all that material from the bucket to the surface by hand. The sprayer saves a lot of physical work, even if you do brush or roll after it.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

Wow ill have to admit im a little shellshocked at how little backbrushing/rolling you guys do. We backbrush backroll all coats. Interior u gotta backroll to make everything even, cause only 1 in 100 painters are THAT good spraying. Exterior any product, you gotta work it into the pores instead of just bridging over them. Now maybe some non porous stuff like vinyl u wouldnt have to... plus, it helps fill nail hole n other imperfections, like knots that have a crack in them. Also, back rolling or brushing helps work any dust (drywall dust or airborne) into the paint, and stick the paint to the wall, so's that the paint isn't just sitting on the dust instead of glued to the wall. Yes even though u pressure washed on friday, there is new dust on the surface. You spray only guys, I have cleaned up a lot of your jobs several years later. Apartments that were just sprayed one coat of eggshell, no primer, no backroll. Ive pulled the paint off the wall similar to stripping wallpaper, thats how good its stuck on lol. Jmo


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> When I was training to spray there was no masking windows. Shielded pretty much everything. It can certainly be done. I usually mask now days, it's just less stressful.
> 
> I like spray/back brush over hand application simply because I don't want to have to transfer all that material from the bucket to the surface by hand. The sprayer saves a lot of physical work, even if you do brush or roll after it.


When I spray, I cover a window 100%. That's just the way I like to do things. I've worked with painters who thought they didn't need drop cloths either. :blink:

Do you think an auto painter only partially covers car windows when spraying?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

PaintersUnite said:


> When I spray, I cover a window 100%. That's just the way I like to do things. I've worked with painters who thought they didn't need drop cloths either. :blink:







I do too now, like I said its less stressful, easier. Shielding is a skill just like cutting in or anything else. 

Oh, and the no drop cloth guys are just using an advanced technique. It's called the 'don't drop any paint method' :jester:


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Practice makes for a fast masker and and fast spray guy. Here's another one french cut trim, sprayed and rolled 2 coats. Also soffits sprayed and backrolled white same time as trim..
Shakes nit done at that point.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Shakes done with SRD sprayed, backbrushed, off course.


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## Repaintpro (Oct 2, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> I do too now, like I said its less stressful, easier. Shielding is a skill just like cutting in or anything else.
> 
> Oh, and the no drop cloth guys are just using an advanced technique. It's called the 'don't drop any paint method' :jester:



Ha...........I am one of those guys who hardly ever uses one! :thumbup:


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

PaintersUnite said:


> If you guys like to spray and backroll, keep on doing what you are doing.
> 
> To paint this siding, I would use the following and the job would turn out looking like a million bucks. The sprayer would be in the truck.
> 
> BTW - don't you cover the window 100% or are you that good?


I posted this before but it didn't show up for some reason. I only masked those windows like that for such a short wall. All the rest of them were masked properly with plastic, and stayed until trim was done. 
My 6" brush(bigger than that corona) can be seen attached to the roller pole via a brush clip.
I sprayed a few boards at a time, spanning 10' side to side and brushed them out nicely, quickly, and continued on down. I was cruising for a one man crew. The neighbors were so impressed they said please geta hhold of them if I ever needed a reference, they would love to. That house was huge btw.
Rough trim edges all french cut twice in august efficiently..


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

ridesarize said:


> I posted this before but it didn't show up for some reason. I only masked those windows like that for such a short wall. All the rest of them were masked properly with plastic, and stayed until trim was done.
> My 6" brush can be seen attached to the roller pole via a brush clip.
> I sprayed a few boards at a time, spanning 12' side to side and brushed them out nicely, quickly, and continued on down. I was cruising for a one man crew. The neighbors were so impressed they said please geta hhold of them if I ever needed a reference, they would love to. That house was huge btw.


Hey, I am sure you do a great job and thanks for posting the pics.

The houses in my part of the US are not built like the homes in Seattle.
We have more Victorian homes, aluminum sided, asbestos sided, stucco, brick, etc. I pass on exteriors all the time. If you were in my area, I would tell my customers to call you for exteriors. I am tired of the ladder work and dealing with the elements.


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## PaintersUnite (May 11, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> I do too now, like I said its less stressful, easier. Shielding is a skill just like cutting in or anything else.
> 
> *Oh, and the no drop cloth guys are just using an advanced technique. It's called the 'don't drop any paint method'* :jester:


Yea, I had a guy that told me he could paint a whole interior, with no drop cloths and not drop a drip. He lasted 2 days with me, need I say more?


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

this one ain't getting done by hand staining, that's for sure. Around 4000 sq ft floor space. 40 gal SRD one coat.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Plus detached garage. Saturate those shingles, wet wet wet, brush in, soak bottom edges. If it ain't dripping and running when you backbrush, it ain't wet enough. 
Resilience 2 coats on all trim and doors over a coat of oil primer.
Sikkens Door and Window on front door.
Oil Impervo trim upstairs, 2 diff colors.
Lacquer dull rubbed trim windows and beams downstairs.
Interior photos in my album on PT.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

ridesarize said:


> Practice makes for a fast masker and and fast spray guy. Here's another one french cut trim, sprayed and rolled 2 coats. Also soffits sprayed and backrolled white same time as trim..
> Shakes nit done at that point.



Do you spray a lot of trim? Or just french cut? I've thought about spraying it on flat siding.

Just masking top and bottom and shielding the sides. Haven't ever talked myself into doing it though.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> Do you spray a lot of trim? Or just french cut? I've thought about spraying it on flat siding.
> 
> Just masking top and bottom and shielding the sides. Haven't ever talked myself into doing it though.


Actually I don't spray a lot of trim usually. The "cardboard" and "green" trimmed house was the fourth home we did for a builder last year and previous year and we hand french cut/trimmed everything on the previous 3 homes. I just remember how long it was taking to double coat all that trim with aura in the summertime sun, getting sticky brush bristles every 1 to 2 hours. 
The green trim was pretty rough on the side though, and I had just warmed up to it when I did that big terra cotta home for a different client in the pics, so I went with it. 
We continued with the GC's personal home spraying white super paint on his french cut trim over the deep base body color, so that was SOOO worth it. Haven't done one this year yet.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I only do it for the french cut stuff.. Need masking to contain the spray, i didn't over shoot the corner, put most of the paint on the side, but not outside cornerboard, then backroll out. Not worth it if just hitting the face only.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

don't usually do the edges on French cut because of how time consuming it is.



Lately I've been thinking about masking windows tight to the frames, spraying & backrolling the body color on them, then masking around the perimeter of the window and spraying the trim color.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> don't usually do the edges on French cut because of how time consuming it is.
> 
> 
> 
> Lately I've been thinking about masking windows tight to the frames, spraying & backrolling the body color on them, then masking around the perimeter of the window and spraying the trim color.


Seems like a lot for just face trimming... I usually mask off window so that trim is exposed, spray body, then roll trim out across face for spec style homes with 5/4. Maybe a nice nice home I brush outer face as to get no paint over edges.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

Okay, so I shamefully bumped the thread so more people could see the big project I painted, can you blame me?


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

ridesarize said:


> Okay, so I shamefully bumped the thread so more people could see the big project I painted, can you blame me?


That should be minus points


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