# Popcorn removal



## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

This has been a very fast growing trend in my market for the past 5 years. Our normal procedure is to wet with pump sprayers and scrape to original gwb. We then prime with rx35 and proceed to remove and replace all bad drywall seams. We all know the shortcuts the drywall/ finish guys took when finding out a level 4 was not required. The gaps and voids left behind by the drywall crew is malpractice. I'm talking 1/2" gaps on butt joints and up to 1" gaps on vaulted ceilings at the peak. I have recently started to apply fiber mesh and conform it to the large gap and then fill with 90 min and apply paper tape directly over the mesh and 90 min and leave that as my bed coat. Am I doing the homeowner a solid by reinforcing the drywall seams or am I being counter productive? 


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

I don't think there is any harm in reinforcing the seams. If the gaps are as bad as you say, I think it's required. Just make sure to get paid accordingly.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I always warn our customers that want this done it was for a reason. I tell them it will most likely need patching. Depending on the gaps depends on how we hit it.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Always a good idea to first check for asbestos before removing all of the popcorn. Although fines are rare, they are steep.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I added extra as there was drywall to replace and showed the ho about the gaps so no problems with the extra cost. My thought of going through with the mesh instead of backfilling a joint that large is when does the mud actually hit something solid and start to fill? Could be all the way to a stud/joist if I'm lucky. Not to mention all the backfill that I removed was so dry/brittle/ and thin it was probably serving no purpose 


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> This has been a very fast growing trend in my market for the past 5 years. Our normal procedure is to wet with pump sprayers and scrape to original gwb. We then prime with rx35 and proceed to remove and replace all bad drywall seams. We all know the shortcuts the drywall/ finish guys took when finding out a level 4 was not required. The gaps and voids left behind by the drywall crew is malpractice. I'm talking 1/2" gaps on butt joints and up to 1" gaps on vaulted ceilings at the peak. I have recently started to apply fiber mesh and conform it to the large gap and then fill with 90 min and apply paper tape directly over the mesh and 90 min and leave that as my bed coat. Am I doing the homeowner a solid by reinforcing the drywall seams or am I being counter productive?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I sometimes wonder if re-drywalling right over top of the popcorn is a better option.. Obviously depends on situation. May have to drop light receptacles to compensate. After the smoke clears it's probably a little more expensive, but a cleaner job..thoughts?


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I have thought of the idea but when you figure your time of getting new wallboard, transporting/carrying it. Needing a helper to hang it, and last but not least the ultralight drywall would probably crack and bubble everywhere the ceiling wasn't even with popcorn. The old stuff is already cut and in place. I can re secure and re tape faster than find the joists, cut, hang, and then finish 


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## mattpaints82 (Mar 7, 2013)

Anyone use the Festool planex for pop corn removal? Been looking for reasons to buy one.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

mattpaints82 said:


> Anyone use the Festool planex for pop corn removal? Been looking for reasons to buy one.


I think I remember JMays saying he sanded some with a Dewalt connected to a vacuum. I prefer wet removal, so I don't personally know about sanding popcorn. I bet YouTube prolly has a clip or 2 on it though.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I sometimes wonder if re-drywalling right over top of the popcorn is a better option.. Obviously depends on situation. May have to drop light receptacles to compensate. After the smoke clears it's probably a little more expensive, but a cleaner job..thoughts?




Over top, no. But cut out the old and replace it? Yes. But at that point it starts to become a job better suited for a boarder and a taper. 


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

futtyos


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

Hopefully, the 3 videos I posted will be viewable by those here. I had to disable javascript for Paint Talk, otherwise my RAM loads up until my pc freezes! I cannot see these videos from this forum.

futtyos


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

futtyos said:


> Hopefully, the 3 videos I posted will be viewable by those here. I had to disable javascript for Paint Talk, otherwise my RAM loads up until my pc freezes! I cannot see these videos from this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> futtyos




Yes, I was able to watch them all on the app. Very cool. In my opinion not having to get the ceiling wet is a boon. No need to worry about water stains, drying time, or the necessity of an oil primer afterwords. 

To the OP, I haven't had the pleasure of using a Planex but the PC 7800 will do the job of dry removal also. Here's a short vid of mine using that process. 






From what I gather about the increased capabilities of the Planex over the PC, I can only imagine it would work better and be easier to operate. 

Futtyos's vids have inspired me to try that technique next time as it seems like it might be less labor intensive.


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## MurphysPaint (Nov 23, 2015)

What's worse than removing popcorn? Removing popcorn and then reapplying it to the whole ceiling. True story.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I would rather re spray popcorn even after I just removed it. There is virtually no repair work just lots of plastic hanging. It's gonna look just as bad but I know I can complete a very large room in one day


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## DEK Painting inc. (Dec 31, 2016)

I always apply a primer/sealer after removing popcorn . Wait a day then tape seams and mud ! Yes I found out the hard way! I had a job that 1 year later the seams failed do to "chalky" drywall ! Cleaning with sponge is not good enough , you must seal !!!


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

Jmayspaint said:


> Yes, I was able to watch them all on the app. Very cool. In my opinion not having to get the ceiling wet is a boon. No need to worry about water stains, drying time, or the necessity of an oil primer afterwords.
> 
> To the OP, I haven't had the pleasure of using a Planex but the PC 7800 will do the job of dry removal also. Here's a short vid of mine using that process.
> 
> ...


Your video was impressive. I would like to try using that sometime as well as the spackle knife attached to a vacuum. Better yet would be a trip to Tahiti!

futtyos


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## DEK Painting inc. (Dec 31, 2016)

Another thing I do when removing popcorn , is spray the warm water out of my Titan 440 ! It atomizes the spray mist and saturates the popcorn better (with less water hitting the floor) ! Much better than a pump up sprayer and way more convenient !! Than after removal your already set up to spray the primer !!!


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Be careful with those pre 1980's homes. Lots of asbestos has been used in popcorn ceilings. 


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