# Copper paint for metal



## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I have a metal spiral staircase to repaint, and it was originally sprayed with some kind of antique copper finish. It is wearing off and they want the same look . Might have even been out of a rattle can, but now many years later it is in a finished house, surrounded by open wood- cedar I think, so I want to try and brush it, but most metallic paints really suck for brushing and the acrylic ones have no coverage. Any suggestions on material?
Thx


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Modern Masters maybe ??? Got pics ?


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

Modern Masters is definitely something to look into. Did it have a metallic look to it at all?


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

Can you get a product called Ardenbrite over there? It is brilliant stuff, unfortunately, VOC's are ruining it.

I know you folks are way ahead of us UK'ers in the VOC's levels. If you can get Ardenbrite, get it now because they are knocking it out cheap just to sell it over here due to VOC levels and being banned.

Their Sovereign Gold is the closest acceptable coating to a gilding finish in the UK, so they are pretty damn good at metallics.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I don't think it's over here.
Modern Masters is one of the best acrylics, but still has little coverage and is tough to brush. I'm hoping to find an oil metallic so it might lay out better. I got a qt of Rustoliem hammered copper oil, and if I can find it without the hammered part it might be a possibility. 
I have pics in my camera- I'll have a couple up shortly.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Crummy shots, but should help-



















Carpeted stairs with a little bit of metal showing, metal apron up open side, bolted to wall inside. Tough to mask off to spray.


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

Pick a color that will work well as a base color. Coat it with that, then get another color that will give the highlights you want. Mix that with BM Metallic Glaze. http://www.benjaminmoore.com/bmpsweb/portals/bmps.portal?_nfpb=true&_windowLabel=contentrenderer_1_10&contentrenderer_1_10_actionOverride=%2Fbm%2Fcms%2FContentRenderer%2FrenderContent&contentrenderer_1_10cnp=public_site%2Farticles%2Fproduct_articles%2Fpa_int_faux_decorative_finishes&contentrenderer_1_10np=productcatalog%2Fproduct_pages%2Fpaint%2Fprd_620&_pageLabel=fc_productsspecs 
and possibly some regular glaze. You'll have to play with the ratios, etc. But brush/ rag/ dry brush (whatever gives you the look you want). Bam, you'll look like a hero.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Thanks Ranger- the couple of times I've played with adding anything to a metallic glaze that wasn't already a metallic- it lost that metal sheen. 
I think the materials then were Mod. Masters, and - can i say it..- Behr. 
I remember being less than amazed with the BM metallics. 
But it might come down to that. Since it is pretty much the right color now, just has warn spots I was hoping to do it in one. I know- wishful thinking...


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## Ranger72 (Jul 3, 2010)

Modern Master makes a gold metallic paint that is super metallic. We used it to antique a stair case/ railing a few years back. 

It was a very contemporary white pickled oak railing, about 115 feet long in total. We had Stix tinted a dark gold, then applied a coat of the Modern Masters metallic gold. (It had full coverage in one coat over the gold stix). Then we took black can't remember which finish, but i think it was BM latex ironclad low luster black thinned with a decent amount of water. We used numerous throw away brushes and applied the paint with them really rubbing it in as well as leveling it out with a wet rag.

On the hand rails we applied some satin acrylic poly, but it did slightly take away from the metallic look.


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## LCI (Jan 2, 2009)

using a metalic glaze over a metalic can be usefull in hidding laplines also but i would prob. use a metalic paint first. something good from MM or metalicmart.com you should be able to find a color match their and since you already have the base color you want i dont think coverage will be that bad. Also, see if you can use a little wizzy matalic roller instead of a brush and finish roll in one direction so the reflection is uniform.generally just brushing on metalics dont look very good, If you have to brush, you can use a decking brush to stipple lightly after you lay it off with a reg. brush. maybee try a couple sample boards first and see what the client likes..


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

The rail is not so large it couldn't be leafed with copper and sealed in with an alkyd poly.

The Rustoleum "hammered" finishes are great and priced right. Another hammered finish is Hammerite come in both rattlecans and bulk. Two coats of that in the suggested window if the customers like that hammered look will last years.

The waterbourne metallics are nice looking and are super on some things but IMO are not all that good for things like handrails.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Not enough money in it to do a leaf- I searched rustoleum to see what non hammered oils they had, and they have a "oil rubbed bronze" in their "Painter's Touch" line- Ace hdwre. Might get a qt of that to try. Hopefully it is as tough as the hammered . 

Thanks all- going to have to try a few things- I'll report my findings-


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

BrushJockey said:


> Not enough money in it to do a leaf- I searched rustoleum to see what non hammered oils they had, and they have a "oil rubbed bronze" in their "Painter's Touch" line- Ace hdwre. Might get a qt of that to try. Hopefully it is as tough as the hammered .
> 
> Thanks all- going to have to try a few things- I'll report my findings-


If your customer will buy the "oil rubbed bronze" color, the paint should be fine. Rustoleum has good paint. I have used some of the regular alkyds on furniture and one of the bulk "hammered" coatings over ABS plastic primed with SW's Krylon "Fusion" on a bike. Still holding after three years. 

Too bad the money isn't right. Nice project. Shows the customer you are thinking.


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