# Priming polyurethane sealant



## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I used a polyurethane sealant from zinsser watertite 

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...olyurethane-sealant-for-concrete-and-masonry/

It say you can topcoat it in 72 hours Im starting to think that didnt mean paint. :wallbash:

stixs didnt work , cover stain isnt doing that well either. Im going to try BIN I have my doubts.

Any ideas or am I SOL. 

I swearI cant get this right when I try to do a great job go above and beyond I get F#$KED. If I just towed the line and used caulking I'd be ok right now but no I wanted to do a great job.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Doesn't say anything about it being paintable so... 

Thinking that when it says "topcoat", they mean a second coat of the same product.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Contact your local sealant/waterproofing supplier. If there is anything that you can prime it with they will have it.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Took a look in your area and this is the type of store to look for http://www.jamacsales.com


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I just spoke with the Zinsser product guy. They say it can be painted. Which means squat. It can give me the false sense of righteousness, because if it is speced to be painted than... but that's for people who take the easy road. I am "_*trying*_" not to be one of those people, but its not easy.

Maybe I could use the dap polyurethane sealant which is paintable. Put that on top of the zinsser stuff?

Im going to call that place tomorrow thanks for the link PRC.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

jason123 said:


> I just spoke with the Zinsser product guy. They say it can be painted. Which means squat. It can give me the false sense of righteousness, because if it is speced to be painted than... but that's for people who take the easy road. I am "_*trying*_" not to be one of those people, but its not easy.
> 
> Maybe I could use the dap polyurethane sealant which is paintable. Put that on top of the zinsser stuff?
> 
> Im going to call that place tomorrow thanks for the link PRC.


You could try skimming it with the dap. Do a sample and abrade it with some 60 grit first to get a profile. If you try this let me know the results.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

I usually use an urethanized elastomeric caulk with success to cover silicone caulking where a previous homeowner it contractor has used. Easily paintable after that.


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

I called this place http://www.jamacsales.com

they pretty much have stuff that you put the polyurethane on after. Primers so the poly will stick better to the substrate. They dont have anything to prime the poly with. The guy was saying you can paint the poly after, The poly they sell you just paint it after.

Side note this is a statue that kids play on the poly was used because there was crack appearing in the statue. So the poly is paint able ( in theory ) and inst cracking or micro checking it just isnt standing up to the kids climbing all over it and doesn't pass the scratch test a day later. 

Im going to let if fail a bit more and see what is for sure happening and why.

Then try BIN or a paintable caulk. OR just hide under a rock.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

jason123 said:


> I called this place http://www.jamacsales.com
> 
> they pretty much have stuff that you put the polyurethane on after. Primers so the poly will stick better to the substrate. They dont have anything to prime the poly with. The guy was saying you can paint the poly after, The poly they sell you just paint it after.
> 
> ...


Was worth a shot. Restoration stores like that place are a good resource to have. Every so often I find something I need at one that no one else has.

I was thinking of a product by Dow called allguard when I first read this because it is an elastomeric that we have used on EFIS and is speced to go over the caulked control joints. Looked it up and it is a silicone product and only goes over silicone caulk. For your sake I was hoping they made the same type paint for poly.


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