# Best budget HVLP for painter starting to do cabinets



## Jimithing616

Hey all, I am a longtime lurker and have been painting for about 10 years. I recently struck out on my own and have been getting tons of calls from folks looking to have cabinets painted white. As I’m sure your all aware!

Anyway, i do have some limited HVLP experience and I own the Rockler/harbor freight unit that I’ve used for poly and such on furniture projects I’ve built. However I’ve never used it for paint and from the reviews I’ve read and forums I am not confident I would get acceptable results with this unit.

I do have a lower end airless too that works really well for me, it’s the harbor freight unit but I have Graco hoses, guns, guards and tips for it and since I’ve used it a lot I can get pretty darn good results with it. I know I should upgrade and I am going to go with a 695 or something with a digital readout to dial in pressures soon here. 

However, since I’m getting so many requests for bids on cabinets, I may wait on a new airless and get a budget HVLP to start. 

Or, I could always go the Graco FF LP tips route with like a 210 tip and see what kind of finish that gives me on cabinets... I know it will overspray more than I’d like but it shouldn’t be too bad.... that is likely the cheapest option, but, do you guys think that will give acceptable (not perfect) results until I can do enough jobs to invest in a proper HVLP?

I could either go that route, using the FF LP tips, then saving up for a cap spray 115 or something after I do a few kitchens...

Or, I could buy a decent 500-600 HVLP now and use it for the next 4-5 kitchens and then invest in a cap spray. 

Which one would you do and why? 

Will the 500 HVLP do a better job than the Graco FF LP tips on an airless?

In the 500 range there is the earlex 6900 that many people swear by. It’s earlex’s 3 stage, but, it’s designed specifically for doing paints. Amazon reviews seem to show its pretty decent at shooting unthinned and thinned latex.

Or there is the Fuji units 3 or 4 stage that a lot of guys like in the 500-600 range

Also I believe the smallest Graco HVLP, the 7.0, is about that price range too....

Any ideas? I know the Graco uses the little plastic liner cups that squeeze the paint into the gun and therefore they tend to shoot heavier bodied paints better, so I do really like that feature.

I just cannot spend 2k right now on a capspray 115 and I have a kitchen job as well as an intricate wooden bannister/railing and trim job coming up that would both benefit immensely from an HVLP 

My 3rd option I’ve considered is buying the Titan FlexSpray with the fine finish head... or the Graco true coat fine finish cordless .... I know both of those have their haters on here, but I know a few guys at least on here have said they like them in past threads, so if anyone can shine some light on those, I’d appreciate it.. are either one capable of producing an acceptable finish on cabinets? Like maybe a 7 or 8 out of 10 or a 3-4 star finish... 

I really appreciate any help that anyone here can give me. Striking out in my own has been rewarding but also it’s a huge risk for me. I am a single father with full custody of my son and I’ve also got a house payment and private school to pay for... so, I’ve gotta make this business work, and messing up on my first big cabinet job could ruin my reputation. We live in a small-ish community and with yelp and google reviews, well, you guys get it. I am a perfectionist and I do not want to deliver a sub par product,

I do not want to spray a pre cat or anything similar. For my first few jobs while learning to use the HVLP sprayer, I will be shooting something along the lines of the SW emerald trim urethane enamel, or the BM Advance... unless anyone else has suggestions for a different easy to use, water cleanup, product. 

The only paint stores around me are Sherwin Williams (who I work with almost exclusively) and Hershfields/Ben Moore. 

Thank you in advance to anyone with some insight on my questions. I know I’m asking a lot but you will be helping a lot


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## PaPainter724

You're going to spray them with paint, not lacquer/varnish, correct? If so, I'd invest in a 395 personally or something similar from Titan with fine finish tips. Otherwise, you're going to get into thinning down your paints because anything less than a 2 stage is going to be very hard pressed to spray paints without thinning. And I don't know that you're really going to see much of a difference in finish between something like that and an airless with fine finish tips.

The BM advance system is really great. Another option that I personally go with is California Paints Ultra/Ultraplate. For my money, it's probably the best cabinet paint, although BM Advance is a close second.

Precats are pretty nice too, but I think that is more brand dependent. I don't like SW's at all.


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## RH

I agree with PP724 about a 395 with fflp tips. I believe you will find that for spraying acrylic latex enamels out of a HVLP will leave you frustrated. Some here say they have got it dialed in and get good results, and I’m not saying they don’t, but many, many more of us have fallen prey to the promise of a HVLP state of bliss only to be disappointed in them when it comes to spraying enamels. Too much thinning required and every product has to be thinned differently. For me personally, it has just been easier and far less of a hassle to go with an airless and proper tips. And just to partially dispel what I consider a myth, you will still get overspray and fogging with an HVLP. Maybe not as much as with an airless, but you will get enough that you’ll need to protect things just as you would with an airless in order to avoid any headaches. The big plus of a HVLP is in clean up - which is much easier than with an airless. 

And on a side note - you will be far better off IMO if you can hold off and get a decent unit regardless of what you get. Buy a used rig, rent one, borrow - anything rather than buy cheap and set yourself up for problems and less than decent results.


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## Jmayspaint

For the materials your talking about using, forget HVLP. The airless you’ve got could easily produce a better finish than any mid level HVLP out there. Get some FF or FFLP tips and go to town. 

Your right that a bigger sprayer like a 695 is great for the digital pressure read out. That’s quite handy. But what’s far handier is the Smart Control feature. Trying to spray at 800-1200 psi with a smaller sprayer doesn’t work very well. They tend to surge at such low pressures giving you an uneven pattern throughout the stroke. 




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## finishesbykevyn

Agreed. Having great success with my Graco 490 airless. Using a 308 FF.


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## Jimithing616

Ok so the consensus seems to be to skip the HVLP, at least for now, or until I can afford something crazy good at spraying unthinned paints like a capspray 115 6 stage or whatever.... 

That’s fair. 

I hate over spray. Which was the main reason for going to HVLP. 

I mask everything and I purchased new drop cloths (mine saw havoc over my last big job solid staining 4 giant gazebos and 20 park benches... so. Much. Overspray. Windy days. Ugh. Anyway. So, point is, I mask to the 9s and protect everything possible. But, I still hate over spray. 

The smart control feature is the Graco deal right Jmayspaint? I know the 395 unit has a smart control 1 that’s non digital and the bigger 490 and higher units have a smart control that is digital. Do you mean that I’d be perfectly fine with the 395 and the non digital smart control for dialing in FFLP tips 

Ok, so let’s say I invest in a 395 now, get rid of the cheap harbor freight airless, even though it has worked well for me, and then invest in the FFLP guard and tips.... 

What do you guys suggest I use for tips? I figured like a 210 or 308 maybe? 
And what pressure or how do I set the pressure or how do YOU set it on the non digital smart control of the 395?

I’m thinking I will go with the Ben Moore Advance even though my SW rep really wants me to try out the newer Emerald Urathane Enamel.... anyone have any experience with this SW emerald in comparison to the BM Advance?

Also, since I have you here... from my research most guys who repaint wooden cabinets that are stained and poly or whatever coating these days, they don’t sand, correct. 

From what I have read on here, most guys use like TSP or another deglosser, then go from that straight to primer, then to the BM Advance or Emerald in my case? Does this sound about right? Are there any cleaning steps like using dawn dish soap before or after deglosser? Or should I scuff sand after deglosser?

Also, I have heard some guys use BIN shellac based primers for cabinets with the BM Advance as a top coat. Apparently the BIN as it’s a shellac base it doesn’t raise the grain so you don’t need to scuff sand after priming and other reasons. 

Is this what you use or what primer do you suggest using with the BM Advance or possibly the Emerald urethane enamel trim paint .....

Sorry, I kno I am exhausting. But, you know what it’s like the first time you do a new technique or process, it’s good to get all your ducks in a row prior to showing up on the job site. I am charging these folks a song, probably half of what anyone else will. So they know it’s my first time using a new system. But, I don’t want to look like an idiot, I do still paint for a living! And I never ever leave a job if it isn’t up to my high standards. I’ll do it over.


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## PPD

Jimithing616 said:


> I’m thinking I will go with the Ben Moore Advance even though my SW rep really wants me to try out the newer Emerald Urathane Enamel.... anyone have any experience with this SW emerald in comparison to the BM Advance?


I’ll leave the tip system advice to the others but my personal opinion on the entire line of SW Emerald through a gun is just No-stick with the BM! My rep kept pushing till I tried it too & I get a much better price so I hoped it would work but was VERY frustrated with the results no matter what adjustments I made & am the same as you...I’ll kill myself doing a job over before I’ll leave something sub par. 



Jimithing616 said:


> From what I have read on here, most guys use like TSP or another deglosser, then go from that straight to primer, then to the BM Advance or Emerald in my case? Does this sound about right? Are there any cleaning steps like using dawn dish soap before or after deglosser? Or should I scuff sand after deglosser?


I use TSP (not the liquid substitue but the powder mix) and ALWAYS wash back as I’m deglossing. Just have a bucket of clean water & spongue to rinse as you go. I had adhesion issues in the past when it dried without rinse..but it may have been another factor & now I’m just crazy about rinsing :0



Jimithing616 said:


> Also, I have heard some guys use BIN shellac based primers for cabinets with the BM Advance as a top coat. Apparently the BIN as it’s a shellac base it doesn’t raise the grain so you don’t need to scuff sand after priming and other reasons.
> 
> Is this what you use or what primer do you suggest using with the BM Advance or possibly the Emerald urethane enamel trim paint .


This ‘guy’ *cough*, girl (haha) uses the BIN shellac on all my cabinet jobs when possible. The fumes are horrible tho so make sure ur mask filters are fresh!!

It not only eliminates the primer sand (doesn't raise the grain) but dries CRAZY fast & lays down like butter through a gun vs the heavier primers. 

I’ve found tannin staining to be a problem with the shellac tho, which is completly mind boggling to me since shellac should block these better than other resins but alas I’ve had issues....

Now if I’m doing a kitchen that’s got these woods or tar staining (inside smokers) I use cover stain to avoid having potential problems...but I prefer the shellac whenever possible!


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## Rbriggs82

I agree with everything above, especially using bin. If I'm priming cabinets that's what I'm using. Unfortunately, some stains are stubborn and they usually don't appear until after the first finish coat at which point all spot prime with coverstain.

Setting the pressure with the smart control is easy. Basically start low and keep raising it until the tails disappear. Tips depend on the paint you're using but a .310 works well with most.

As for paint, please skip the Emerald. Luckily I saved myself the trouble. I was on a job where the customer wanted to add the cabinets. I didn't have enough time in my schedule for them right away so they hired someone else to do them. They used the Emerald urethane whatever and it had to have been the worst finish I've ever seen on cabinets.

Advance has an awesome finish but there are serious drawbacks. First being the 16hr recoat time which is a production killer. Also it takes forever to reach a full cure. It can be soft for a month leaving it open to problems in a working kitchen during that time.

I recommend using either breakthrough or California Ultraplate. Both of which are crazy durable, stick to just about anything, and have only a 2hr recoat time. 

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## RH

Jimithing616 said:


> Ok so the consensus seems to be to skip the HVLP, at least for now, or until I can afford something crazy good at spraying unthinned paints like a capspray 115 6 stage or whatever....
> 
> That’s fair.
> 
> I hate over spray. Which was the main reason for going to HVLP.
> 
> I mask everything and I purchased new drop cloths (mine saw havoc over my last big job solid staining 4 giant gazebos and 20 park benches... so. Much. Overspray. Windy days. Ugh. Anyway. So, point is, I mask to the 9s and protect everything possible. But, I still hate over spray.
> 
> The smart control feature is the Graco deal right Jmayspaint? I know the 395 unit has a smart control 1 that’s non digital and the bigger 490 and higher units have a smart control that is digital. Do you mean that I’d be perfectly fine with the 395 and the non digital smart control for dialing in FFLP tips
> 
> Ok, so let’s say I invest in a 395 now, get rid of the cheap harbor freight airless, even though it has worked well for me, and then invest in the FFLP guard and tips....
> 
> What do you guys suggest I use for tips? I figured like a 210 or 308 maybe?
> And what pressure or how do I set the pressure or how do YOU set it on the non digital smart control of the 395?
> 
> I’m thinking I will go with the Ben Moore Advance even though my SW rep really wants me to try out the newer Emerald Urathane Enamel.... anyone have any experience with this SW emerald in comparison to the BM Advance?
> 
> Also, since I have you here... from my research most guys who repaint wooden cabinets that are stained and poly or whatever coating these days, they don’t sand, correct.
> 
> From what I have read on here, most guys use like TSP or another deglosser, then go from that straight to primer, then to the BM Advance or Emerald in my case? Does this sound about right? Are there any cleaning steps like using dawn dish soap before or after deglosser? Or should I scuff sand after deglosser?
> 
> Also, I have heard some guys use BIN shellac based primers for cabinets with the BM Advance as a top coat. Apparently the BIN as it’s a shellac base it doesn’t raise the grain so you don’t need to scuff sand after priming and other reasons.
> 
> Is this what you use or what primer do you suggest using with the BM Advance or possibly the Emerald urethane enamel trim paint .....
> 
> Sorry, I kno I am exhausting. But, you know what it’s like the first time you do a new technique or process, it’s good to get all your ducks in a row prior to showing up on the job site. I am charging these folks a song, probably half of what anyone else will. So they know it’s my first time using a new system. But, I don’t want to look like an idiot, I do still paint for a living! And I never ever leave a job if it isn’t up to my high standards. I’ll do it over.


You do manage to cram a lot of questions into your posts so I’ll only address a few;
To reiterate about a HVLP versus airless, in doing something like the gazebos and multiple park benches you mentioned, going at those with an HVLP would be exhausting and take you forever. IMO they are really only good for smaller type projects.

Yes, the 395 has Smart Control but no digital pressure readout. When I started using the FFLP tips I wanted to more accurately know where the optimal pressure range would be so I added a digital gauge to mine. Cost was about $100 and easy to add in. 

I use a 310 FFLP tip for most of my spray work. You may want to experiment with a few different sizes.


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## Lightningboy65

RH said:


> many more of us have fallen prey to the promise of a HVLP state of bliss only to be disappointed in them when it comes to spraying enamels. Too much thinning required and every product has to be thinned differently. For me personally, it has just been easier and far less of a hassle to go with an airless and proper tips.
> 
> And on a side note - you will be far better off IMO if you can hold off and get a decent unit regardless of what you get. Buy a used rig, rent one, borrow - anything rather than buy cheap and set yourself up for problems and less than decent results.


I'm getting the feeling that many on this forum have not spent much time using a pressure pot fed HVLP. It makes a big difference in being able to move paint through your HVLP gun without thinning (or greatly reduced thinning). If you try it, I think you'll like it. It does involve a bit more clean up, but hey there is no such thing as a free lunch. The reduced overspray and material savings (especially on big jobs) are often worth using an HVLP . A pressure pot also makes an HVLP a big project sprayer.

As for the side note - very sage advice. When it comes to equipment you are going to build your reputation on, always buy the the best. The savings are not worth the frustration and disappointment.


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## PPD

Rbriggs82 said:


> I recommend using either breakthrough or California Ultraplate. Both of which are crazy durable, stick to just about anything, and have only a 2hr recoat time.


I second Rbriggs82 recommendation for PPG Breakthrough! It's the closest thing to perfection I've found!! I use the clear coat over speciality finishes and the paint whenever possible!


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## RH

Lightningboy65 said:


> I'm getting the feeling that many on this forum have not spent much time using a pressure pot fed HVLP. It makes a big difference in being able to move paint through your HVLP gun without thinning (or greatly reduced thinning). If you try it, I think you'll like it. It does involve a bit more clean up, but hey there is no such thing as a free lunch. The reduced overspray and material savings (especially on big jobs) are often worth using an HVLP . A pressure pot also makes an HVLP a big project sprayer.
> 
> As for the side note - very sage advice. When it comes to equipment you are going to build your reputation on, always buy the the best. The savings are not worth the frustration and disappointment.


I will freely admit I haven’t. My four stage turbine, hose, and gravity feed gun have been it. Did some checking and it looks interesting. If I wasn’t getting close to hanging everything up I’d consider pursuing it as an option. I would hope others would too (look into it, not hang it up). Thanks for the heads up.


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## Lightningboy65

RH said:


> I will freely admit I haven’t. My four stage turbine, hose, and gravity feed gun have been it. Did some checking and it looks interesting. If I wasn’t getting close to hanging everything up I’d consider pursuing it as an option. I would hope others would too (look into it, not hang it up). Thanks for the heads up.


I've been retired a few years, so I can appreciate your situation. If I were still in the game I think I would seriously consider air assisted airless for much of my finish work on larger jobs. I never used one but that system seems to offer the best of both airless and HVLP.


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## Lightningboy65

PPD said:


> This ‘guy’ *cough*, girl (haha) uses the BIN shellac on all my cabinet jobs when possible. The fumes are horrible tho so make sure ur mask filters are fresh!!
> 
> It not only eliminates the primer sand (doesn't raise the grain) but dries CRAZY fast & lays down like butter through a gun vs the heavier primers.


IMO BIN is the best primer ever made. I used a pile of bin throughout my years. All of our wood trim packages always got a coat of bin, a sanding with a fine sponge and then 2 top coats . Until about 2005 it was Satin Impervo, but finally had to cave in and use latex topcoat(Uggggh, although the latex is much improved). Smooth like glass .

My guys used to moan about the odor, but you can't beat the results. Glad to see there are still some youngsters willing to use BIN !


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## PNW Painter

Since you just started your business i’d recommend purchasing an airless like the Graco 395. This will give your business the greatest flexibility and highest return because you’ll also be able to spray trim packs, exteriors or prime drywall.

My one piece of advice is to save your money and buy the best machine for the job. Buying a cheap sprayer meant for homeowners will only cost you more in the long run. 


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## PPD

Lightningboy65 said:


> IMO BIN is the best primer ever made.
> 
> My guys used to moan about the odor, but you can't beat the results. Glad to see there are still some youngsters willing to use BIN !


I’ve never felt the need to reinvent the wheel 🙂 I place a lot of weight on advice & tips I’ve gotten from from industey “old timers” and have always choosen mentors of the retired generation. One of them recommended BIN back when I was still playing around and had no idea I’d ever go fulltime in this business...suprise, suprise- its been a god send!

I know a lot of ppl my age don’t think their advice is valid because they feel “the industry has changed so much...their still moaning about VOC laws & preaching how quality brush work is the cornerstone of judging a good painter”.... but I think ppl who feel they can do it better because they are young & “modern” (aka green) are nieve and missing out on valuable info they’ll need someday! 

*Plus, I’m constantly complaining bout our areas restrictive VOC laws getting worse every year...Most of my holy grail products have been taken away & none of the new stuff compares but clients quality standards are higher than ever! *grh


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## Jimithing616

So, it turns out the clients son is an asthmatic and they are weary of me using an oil based product like BIN since I’m doing their whole home also (trim, doors, bannister, windows) in the kids room....

If I can’t use the BIN, what would you use? I think I will end up using the breakthrough and buy a capspray 95. If I have to thin I have to thin. Then I’ll use my existing airless and FF LP tips along with a new Graco contractor 2 gun and hose to do trim and doors to save time and possibly just use Pro classic on the trim.... 

Anyone used the SW All Surface Enamel primer or their Extreme bond Primer? Or can you recommend another non oil that will work under Breakthrough and pro classic ....

Would anyone steer me away from pro classic to a different Product for trim? Would you just use breakthrough for everything? More expensive but I’m not opposed

Also, if anyone has capspray experience, do you think it would be worth spending more to get the 105 (5 stage) or 115 (6 stage) ? The Titan rep at the Sherwin Williams pro show yesterday told me the 95 won’t spray breakthrough, I’d have to go at least the 105 but he claimed the 95 sprays the Emerald Urethane Enamel and proclassic just fine... may have just been one of those SW guys tho


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## Jimithing616

PPD said:


> I’ll leave the tip system advice to the others but my personal opinion on the entire line of SW Emerald through a gun is just No-stick with the BM! My rep kept pushing till I tried it too & I get a much better price so I hoped it would work but was VERY frustrated with the results no matter what adjustments I made & am the same as you...I’ll kill myself doing a job over before I’ll leave something sub par.
> 
> 
> 
> I use TSP (not the liquid substitue but the powder mix) and ALWAYS wash back as I’m deglossing. Just have a bucket of clean water & spongue to rinse as you go. I had adhesion issues in the past when it dried without rinse..but it may have been another factor & now I’m just crazy about rinsing :0
> 
> 
> 
> This ‘guy’ *cough*, girl (haha) uses the BIN shellac on all my cabinet jobs when possible. The fumes are horrible tho so make sure ur mask filters are fresh!!
> 
> It not only eliminates the primer sand (doesn't raise the grain) but dries CRAZY fast & lays down like butter through a gun vs the heavier primers.
> 
> I’ve found tannin staining to be a problem with the shellac tho, which is completly mind boggling to me since shellac should block these better than other resins but alas I’ve had issues....
> 
> Now if I’m doing a kitchen that’s got these woods or tar staining (inside smokers) I use cover stain to avoid having potential problems...but I prefer the shellac whenever possible!





Sorry about the “guys” comment. I actually learned to paint from my mother, she was no pro, but she did everything from painting to vinyl siding our entire house when I was a kid. So, I’m well aware that women most likely do about anything better than us guys. 

And thank you for all the insanely good advice too by the way! All of you, this is really helping.... I know I’d be fine trial and error style on my own, but I’m a perfectionist and a researcher type so I realllllllyyyyy like to have all questions answered and be prepared well before I touch someone else home that they worked hard for.


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## finishesbykevyn

Jimithing616 said:


> So, it turns out the clients son is an asthmatic and they are weary of me using an oil based product like BIN since I’m doing their whole home also (trim, doors, bannister, windows) in the kids room....
> 
> If I can’t use the BIN, what would you use? I think I will end up using the breakthrough and buy a capspray 95. If I have to thin I have to thin. Then I’ll use my existing airless and FF LP tips along with a new Graco contractor 2 gun and hose to do trim and doors to save time and possibly just use Pro classic on the trim....
> 
> Anyone used the SW All Surface Enamel primer or their Extreme bond Primer? Or can you recommend another non oil that will work under Breakthrough and pro classic ....
> 
> Would anyone steer me away from pro classic to a different Product for trim? Would you just use breakthrough for everything? More expensive but I’m not opposed
> 
> Also, if anyone has capspray experience, do you think it would be worth spending more to get the 105 (5 stage) or 115 (6 stage) ? The Titan rep at the Sherwin Williams pro show yesterday told me the 95 won’t spray breakthrough, I’d have to go at least the 105 but he claimed the 95 sprays the Emerald Urethane Enamel and proclassic just fine... may have just been one of those SW guys tho


If someone is asthmatic in the house, I wouldn't be doing any spraying. You don't have to spray all the trims and doors do you? You also IMO, don't have to spray the cabinet boxes. Take all the doors back to your garage to spray or something.
If you need to prime anything in the house, just use the BM Stix or something comparable. Or just brush and roll some of that breakthrough everyone's been talking about..


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## Jimithing616

finishesbykevyn said:


> If someone is asthmatic in the house, I wouldn't be doing any spraying. You don't have to spray all the trims and doors do you? You also IMO, don't have to spray the cabinet boxes. Take all the doors back to your garage to spray or something.
> If you need to prime anything in the house, just use the BM Stix or something comparable. Or just brush and roll some of that breakthrough everyone's been talking about..


I am infact doing about 15 doors, a fireplace mantle, all the windows, tons of trim and door jambs and an intricate crazy complicated wood bannister railing on a grand staircase, probably about 75 spindles....

Which is why I have pretty much decided on buying the new Titan capspray 115 6 stage turbine HVLP... from everything I’ve read a 6 stage will shoot just about anything unthinned as it’s got like 12 psi at the tip, where as for example gracos 5 stage (their best unit) the 9.5 only has 8 or 9 psi

It’s a $1200 investment, and I know it’ll be slower than my airless, but, spraying all those tiny spindles in the staircase bannister with an airless and even a FF LP 208 or 210 tip would still be an insane amount of overspray I feel like

I wonder if anyone here has any experience with the capspray 115 and using things like breakthrough or California UltraPlate or possibly proclassic .... haven’t decided what I’ll be using on the cabinets and trim, doors, bannister yet

Customer wants the cabs to match trim, doors, bannister... so I think I’ll need to use the same product as a top coat, but, I was hoping to maybe not use BIN on the trim, only the cabs and bannister, then switch to water based primer for doors, trim and windows...

Also, I’m charging these folks a song for everything... under 4 grand to paint the whole house, walls, trim, doors, bannister and kitchen cabinets.... 

I’m a newer painter on my own, I work alone, and I need these cabinets to be perfect as these people will be referring me to many future clients.

So, I’m ok with working slower with an HVLP to produce a better finish in the end 

I know some of you don’t think HVLP does a better finish than airless, however, I am also not the most experienced airless user, I’ve only really used mine outdoors for the last 2 summers doing decks, pergolas, fences, benches, etc so the idea of using it inside someone’s house (I don’t have a spray booth off site) kind of scares me and the slower speed of the HVLP actually sounds like a win win to me

Anyone have any insight?


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## RH

Jimithing616 said:


> I am infact doing about 15 doors, a fireplace mantle, all the windows, tons of trim and door jambs and an intricate crazy complicated wood bannister railing on a grand staircase, probably about 75 spindles....
> 
> Which is why I have pretty much decided on buying the new Titan capspray 115 6 stage turbine HVLP... from everything I’ve read a 6 stage will shoot just about anything unthinned as it’s got like 12 psi at the tip, where as for example gracos 5 stage (their best unit) the 9.5 only has 8 or 9 psi
> 
> It’s a $1200 investment, and I know it’ll be slower than my airless, but, spraying all those tiny spindles in the staircase bannister with an airless and even a FF LP 208 or 210 tip would still be an insane amount of overspray I feel like
> 
> I wonder if anyone here has any experience with the capspray 115 and using things like breakthrough or California UltraPlate or possibly proclassic .... haven’t decided what I’ll be using on the cabinets and trim, doors, bannister yet
> 
> Customer wants the cabs to match trim, doors, bannister... so I think I’ll need to use the same product as a top coat, but, I was hoping to maybe not use BIN on the trim, only the cabs and bannister, then switch to water based primer for doors, trim and windows...
> 
> Also, I’m charging these folks a song for everything... under 4 grand to paint the whole house, walls, trim, doors, bannister and kitchen cabinets....
> 
> I’m a newer painter on my own, I work alone, and I need these cabinets to be perfect as these people will be referring me to many future clients.
> 
> So, I’m ok with working slower with an HVLP to produce a better finish in the end
> 
> I know some of you don’t think HVLP does a better finish than airless, however, I am also not the most experienced airless user, I’ve only really used mine outdoors for the last 2 summers doing decks, pergolas, fences, benches, etc so the idea of using it inside someone’s house (I don’t have a spray booth off site) kind of scares me and the slower speed of the HVLP actually sounds like a win win to me
> 
> Anyone have any insight?


I think members have given you a pretty full dose of “insight” already. I suspect what you really want is for someone to tell you that you are making the absolutely best choice. But eventually you have to weigh the advice (won’t call them facts) and make your decision. If you end up not liking the HVLP for what you bought it for, you will discover it’s great for other applications. Or, you can always sell it. It’s only a money decision, not life or death.


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## RH

And remember, none of us likely has ever felt 100% sure about buying a piece of equipment we are unfamiliar with - or that whatever we decide on will be the answer to every type of situation we’ll encounter. That’s why most of us have more than one sprayer, sander, vacuum, etc..


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## Lightningboy65

Jimithing616 said:


> ..... with an airless and even a FF LP 208 or 210 tip would still be an insane amount of overspray
> 
> I know some of you don’t think HVLP does a better finish than airless, however, I am also not the most experienced airless user, I’ve only really used mine outdoors for the last 2 summers doing decks, pergolas, fences, benches, etc so the idea of using it inside someone’s house (I don’t have a spray booth off site) kind of scares me and the slower speed of the HVLP actually sounds like a win win to me
> 
> Anyone have any insight?


You are right on the money ! Very sound thinking.


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## Cocktimus Prime

What did you end up deciding on and doing the job with? I could only load the 1st page of this thread so I may have missed the ending but personally I would have said to stick with your rockler/Chicago electric until you save up for the Titan. That little HVLP unit is the best kept secret in finish painting. Anyone who has tried it and knows how to actually thin and spray correctly will all tell you the same exact thing about how great and under rated that it really is. Also look out for an older Campbell Hausfeld 2 stage unit with adjustable air control which you can find for under $80 used. I found one on LetGo and it’s become my new go to for cabinets and finishing.


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