# Painting factory-painted metal gutters



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Sort of out of practice with exterior processes so need to know what type of prep is recommended prior to painting factory coated metal gutters in order to attain good adhesion? This is for our own home - it's time to paint the outside of our new addition and we just feel the need to facilitate a change from the white gutters we currently have.

Thanks,
Dan


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

RH said:


> Sort of out of practice with exterior processes so need to know what type of prep is recommended prior to painting factory coated metal gutters in order to attain good adhesion? This is for our own home - it's time to paint the outside of our new addition and we just feel the need to facilitate a change from the white gutters we currently have.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


You should go to the diy site. I don't have a link to it, but I'm sure a mod will be by to give you all the info. :jester


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> You should go to the diy site. I don't have a link to it, but I'm sure a mod will be by to give you all the info. :jester


Ow, ow, ow, I'm feeling all butt-hurt!!!


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

RH said:


> Sort of out of practice with exterior processes so need to know what type of prep is recommended prior to painting factory coated metal gutters in order to attain good adhesion? This is for our own home - it's time to paint the outside of our new addition and we just feel the need to facilitate a change from the white gutters we currently have.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


We scuff them with a 3M pad, green or maroon, and finish them with BM DTM.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

I'm a fan of Zinnser 1-2-3 here. If the original sheen has flattened and the surface is clean, a top of the line exterior paint like Aura or Duration will bond without the primer. JMO


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

RH said:


> Sort of out of practice with exterior processes so need to know what type of prep is recommended prior to painting factory coated metal gutters in order to attain good adhesion? This is for our own home - it's time to paint the outside of our new addition and we just feel the need to facilitate a change from the white gutters we currently have.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


In all seriousness, if they're dull, but on a really good exterior dtm will work fine, if they're shiny then what @Gough said


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Some are pretty new, others have been up long enough to have lost their sheen. Figured that at minimum a good cleaning and scuff was needed, just wasn't positive about needing a prime coat or not.

Thanks for the feedback.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Clean, dull and dry. Paint with a quality 100% acrylic and you'll be golden :thumbsup:


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Soak a sanding sponge in liquid sanding de glosser and give em a quick scuff. DTM is awesome, but not necessary.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Just make sure they are clean, then coat with whatever your trim paint is, flat or satin. 100% acrylic only, no cheap stuff.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Maybe sandblast them. Need to put a good etch on there so your paint had something to bond to.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> Maybe sandblast them. Need to put a good etch on there so your paint had something to bond to.


 do you think SSPC 6/NACE 3 is sufficient or should he go to near-white (#10)?:jester:

Sorry, JP, but that seems *way* overboard. We've gotten great service from hand scuffing followed by high-quality acrylics or DTMs.


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## bbair (Nov 18, 2012)

I've got a few solid stain jobs to do, but putting a latex stain on gutter and downspouts would be a bad idea, eh? I was hoping to not make an extra trip around. I guess I'll charge accordingly


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Gough said:


> do you think SSPC 6/NACE 3 is sufficient or should he go to near-white (#10)?:jester:
> 
> Sorry, JP, but that seems *way* overboard. We've gotten great service from hand scuffing followed by high-quality acrylics or DTMs.


A full on white blast


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Gough said:


> do you think SSPC 6/NACE 3 is sufficient or should he go to near-white (#10)?:jester:
> 
> Sorry, JP, but that seems *way* overboard. We've gotten great service from hand scuffing followed by high-quality acrylics or DTMs.


Whatsa' matter Gough? Is your BS meter on the fritz today?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> Maybe sandblast them. Need to put a good etch on there so your paint had something to bond to.


OK, you got me. It was early...and a short night. I think my BS meter was still sound asleep.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Use to prime them, since we moved on to just 100% acrylic paint.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Ever try and remove old paint splatters off a gutter? Literally impossible to do without damaging the gutter


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Ever try and remove old paint splatters off a gutter? Literally impossible to do without damaging the gutter


No... when I did exteriors I never got paint on the gutters unless it was intentional. Thanks for the heads up. :whistling2:


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

I paint just about every gutter we come across. Just wash them and paint them. We use duration.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

Krud Cutter gloss off is the answer, then paint with acrylic. no primer required.


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## Stretch67 (Oct 7, 2013)

journeymanPainter said:


> A full on white blast


This commercial blast seemed to provide plenty of tooth using 20-40. A coat of two component waterborne epoxy and a coat of Devflex. Will be good for 20 years.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

I've never bothered priming them, put a little paint on and you won't be able to scrape it off after a few hours. If I was compelled to do it I would probably just use sealkrete, that stuff is awesome for metal surfaces.


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