# First time spraying furniture, questions:



## Blakelpd5 (Dec 2, 2012)

Howdy guys/gals,

As I stated in the introduction portion of this forum, I am a hands-on general contractor by day, but just took on this small job of painting 6 pieces of previously painted furniture. I have sprayed my fair share of latex interior and exterior over the years, but that is all I have ever sprayed, so I'm a complete newb to this aspect of it. I'm hoping some of you can help me produce a solid finish for my clients.

I have a commercial grade airless sprayer, and am not sure which type of paint to go with. My cabinet guy usually uses an enamel, so I was kicking around the idea of using that, but asking you, what type of paint is best?

Also, what tip size would be best for spraying furniture?

I want to provide them with a high quality, durable finish, that will last them years. 

After sanding the gloss off the previous finish, will I get a better end-result if I prime it all first? If so, which primer do you recomend? As I move along, I know I will have a TON more questions, so thank you in advance! :notworthy:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

What type of furniture? Spraying dressers and wardrobes would be somewhat different from doing dining room chairs.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

HVLP all the way. You can buy an Earlex 5500 for 350.00 bucks and it will work great for what you are planning. Get the #1 needle for it. An airless is way over the top for fine furniture finishes and waste of material. HVLP will spray most all materials, use less paint, and are much easier to clean.


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Ya, lots of varibles here. Type of furniture, current conditon, indoor/outdoor furniture, etc. 

Not to be rude but you might wanna pass on a job your not sure of. Some of my favorite jobs are the ones i walk away from.

My votes for HVLP


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Another vote for HVLP. Of course you COULD use the airless, but that would kind of be like framing a house with only a chain saw. It's just a tad bit overkill.


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## Blakelpd5 (Dec 2, 2012)

Thank you for your replies! Sorry for the lack of info.

I am spraying two dressers, a wardrobe, a couple of end tables, and a chair.

So, I get the HVLP, and it's advantages. I appreciate that info, and will go that route. I never mind buying a new tool, as I know it will make me money down the road.

I was for sure worried about to much paint coming out of the airless.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Airless would work - try a 3-10 ff tip and look into Benjamin Moore Advance for the enamel.

Pat


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Aqua Lock is a great primer to use for that type of stuff. Dries fast, sands super smooth with little effort and is water-based.:thumbup: I think most Benjamin Moore store carry it.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Cabinet coat would be a good finish too.


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## johnny949 (Apr 13, 2012)

I would personally use a titan655 diaphram pump with hopper($700 or cheaper if you have an account). Use 210 & 310 fine finish tips. You can get a really great finish with this little airless pump. You could spray alkyd, waterborne, stains, clears just about anything. Also, with this pump its great for just about any small project you need to spray. Not to mention easy to clean out, too. 

My boss has an hvlp that he has used once. He spent over $1,000 on it too. What a waste.


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## Blakelpd5 (Dec 2, 2012)

Couple more questions please?

I popped into BM today, after reading over and over people using their products for spraying cabinets / furniture.

He kept trying to talk me into advance, and even asked a painter behind me what he thought of it. The painter said it is the best, but apply in super thin coats. It sags really easy. And the dry time is 2-3 times longer than others.

This worried me thinking it might be one of the harder ones to work with?
The guy behind the counter said next on his list was Aura, which I've heard of with good results, and has a way better dry time.

Then I also mentioned I've heard good things on Satin Impervo, he said it is also good. 

Question is, what should I go with that is durable, and easy to work with?

For primer, is Zinsser 1-2-3 a decent choice to spray with a HVLP system? Does it sand decently?

What is a good poly to spray on a chair and end table after I stain? 

Thanks for your help so far!!!:notworthy:


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Did not know SW sells BM or I'm guessing that was a typo. Your questions reminds me of a customer asking for the best job but they want the dirt cheap price. You want something durable but easy to work with. Just buy a quart or two and practice before you shoot the stuff. It should not take more then a quart to get the hang of it. Go to a thrift store, buy a couple of chairs or a dresser for 10 bucks. If you wind up going with advance then just use the advance primer. Great stuff and sprays just like oil. I get great results with an airless and a ff 3-10 tip.

If you want this to turn out good and you don't have any experience, either pass on it entirely or gets some practice in.

Pat


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Blakelpd5 said:


> Couple more questions please?
> 
> I popped into BM today, after reading over and over people using their products for spraying cabinets / furniture.
> 
> ...


Hey dude if you're using an hvlp Advance works great. I thin about 10% with water. I've sprayed 123+ which is the same as smart prime. Again thin about 10% with water.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Blakelpd5 said:


> Couple more questions please?
> 
> I popped into BM today, after reading over and over people using their products for spraying cabinets / furniture.
> 
> ...



If you want to go oil Satin Impervo sprays great with an HVLP.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I use 1-2-3 alot with my hvlp and it sprays nice and sands easy.
I did some kitchen cabinets this summer and used S/W Pro-Mar 200 hybrid oil acrylic with my hvlp and I liked it.Sprayed well dont remember how much I reduced but some.It dries fast and hard.
Its been 4 months since I did them and no callback about them.


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## painterdave71 (Jan 1, 2013)

Damon T said:


> Cabinet coat would be a good finish too.


Cabinet Coat is a great call. Love that product by itself & have for the last year been "lab ratting" it as a low odor & easily applied alternative primer & base coat for in-home kitchen & bathroom cabinet repaints over clears using either a clear or pigmented conversion varnish over the C. C. without lifting.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

painterdave71 said:


> Cabinet Coat is a great call. Love that product by itself & have for the last year been "lab ratting" it as a low odor & easily applied alternative primer & base coat for in-home kitchen & bathroom cabinet repaints over clears using either a clear or pigmented conversion varnish over the C. C. without lifting.


Are you putting the clear or pigmented conversion varnish over it for extra protection I'm guessing?


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

painterdave71 said:


> Cabinet Coat is a great call. Love that product by itself & have for the last year been "lab ratting" it as a low odor & easily applied alternative primer & base coat for in-home kitchen & bathroom cabinet repaints over clears using either a clear or pigmented conversion varnish over the C. C. without lifting.


Why would you put a pigmented CV over cabinet coat? You can use one or the other but you certainly don't need both. And I don't think I would recommend putting a CV over fresh urethane. If you need a base coat for CV there are better alternatives imo.


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## painterdave71 (Jan 1, 2013)

yes i am. its not the "system" the paint manufacturer recommends, but my paint rep said he had success with other manufactures pre-cat & conversion. & when we do the face frames i don't kno about any1 else but i find it hard to try & brush post-at undercoaters.


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## painterdave71 (Jan 1, 2013)

Rcon said:


> Why would you put a pigmented CV over cabinet coat? You can use one or the other but you certainly don't need both. And I don't think I would recommend putting a CV over fresh urethane. If you need a base coat for CV there are better alternatives imo.


i would have to PM u for the answer to your ? Recon


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

painterdave71 said:


> i would have to PM u for the answer to your ? Recon


Pm me the answer too!


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