# Peel Bond.....real product???



## APF (Jun 6, 2009)

Anyone out there use XIM exterior Peel Bond?? I have a over 100 year old house I am looking at that needs a paint job. The owners don't want to vynil siding but want a paint job that won't kill them. They just bought it - it is 2 stories with another story of dormers and gables. It has shakes it the peaks and cedar siding everywhere else. So, as you can guess, it has issues. There is peeling paint,checking,aligatoring and curing and warping of the wood. I have always been taught...power wash,scrape,oil prime,and paint. This XIM product (which is water based) is a clear product made to bond and seal the paint left on the home and remain flexible. :blink:It is high building to help hide and fill the areas you scraped off. I looked at there site - sounds great. But, will this product really extend this homes life as they say?? It sounds like it makes the paint job look better also since it is a high build. Looks like wallpaper paste. Enough rambling, has anyone used it and been BACK to that job to see results as good as oil? Thanx for any input


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Peelbond is a good product. But I have a piece of trim that was painted and got washed/etched with tsp/bleach. Then I coated the whole trim board with peelbond - and there is some peeling on it right now 3 years later - so I will have to get a ladder to inspect. I have other jobs that have done well. I don't think any product is a cure all be all.....for example....

I washed the front of my buddy's shop which was all really old farmer boards and on that surface Maddog {a higher quality XIM like product, imo} has done extremely well a year later the whole surface is perfect. But the owner of the property had a door/casement installed a couple of years ago with pre-primed door casings. It was that ugly dark brown primer - not grey or white. And hit that casement with a turbo nozzle - just enough to get the loose primer off - but not enough to kill the wood.

Anyways the maddog is bubbling off that trim now a year later in patches as large as 8 inches high and the width of the casement trim! It hasn't broken and thus not peeled - but it's funny seeing the 'balloon' effect on the trim. It has literally exerted a ripping tension force on the primer below it and tore it off to bare wood.

So there are no 'miracle' products.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

You will still need to scrape the peeling paint and put time into prep work, but PeelBond is best sprayed because you can controll the build. Basically it is a high build primer to fill grooves and grain. And I agree that there is no miracle product.


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## APF (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanx, kinda what I had figured. Yeah, from their site spraying looked the best way.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Both the XIM and Zinsser "peel" products work well for what they are, and can help in tough spots

But basically...


plainpainter said:


> So there are no 'miracle' products.





Andyman said:


> And I agree that there is no miracle product.


...ayup
:thumbsup:

Neither is "miracle in a can" so to speak
Good stuff though...


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The more I use PeelBond, the more I like it, but will have to wait for some longterm results to be certain about the product.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I've got about 3 (or 4, I cant remember) years results and am still VERY impressed with PEELBOND.
I don't think zinnser's PEELSTOP holds a candle to XIM's PEELBOND though.

And as a heads up...
PEELSTOP is not recommended for raw wood:no:


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Ever used Peel Stop for more penetration, then Peel Bond ? Did that on some horribly weather fascia on my own house just a bit ago. I have hopes...


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## Boden Painting (Dec 27, 2007)

I've got sort of a similar situation as the OP. Does anyone know if I can Long Oil prime->XIM Peelbond-> Latex topcoat. I was hoping to give the wood a good oil prime and get some of the leveling properties, but not interfere with the bond between the primer and paint. I usually use BM paint and would be concerned if ther would be an waranty issues with BM if the XIM or any combination failed.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

no need to oil prime before peelbond, that stuff some how soaks in and grips like mad.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I used peelbond zinnser on some 40 year old aluminum siding that the factory finish was disintegrating on. Works good for penetrating into chalky areas. Luckily I was able to pressurewash most of the old factory paint off to bare metal first.

The sad thing about exteriors is that the paint that remains on the surface and is painted over, will most likely peel off and take the new coating with it, especially if theres other issues going on with the building, such as poor ventalation or gutter systems.

A final note about prep, I'm a believer in sanding weathered wood where paint has peeled off. This gets rid of the dead grey wood fibers that paint or primer doesnt bond well to.

Good luck


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## 1977corey (Feb 27, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> I used peelbond zinnser on some 40 year old aluminum siding that the factory finish was disintegrating on. Works good for penetrating into chalky areas. Luckily I was able to pressurewash most of the old factory paint off to bare metal first.
> 
> The sad thing about exteriors is that the paint that remains on the surface and is painted over, will most likely peel off and take the new coating with it, especially if theres other issues going on with the building, such as poor ventalation or gutter systems.
> 
> ...


OIL.........OIL........OIL........ :thumbsup:


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## Niel Barrett (Aug 2, 2010)

*peal bond*

I too have used Peal Bond for a number of years... after using a product called Never Peal for many years which I have had great luck with. One needs to remember that no product out there is the cure all for old troubled areas, however, Peal bond will help to fill up rough areas and help to extend the life of the paint job if one uses two coat of finish paint. It can help those real troubled areas to put Peal Bond on in cooler temps and use a good primmer over the top of it to help the adhesion of the finial coats. I have paint homes that are over 100's year old and have great luck using the two step primmer method. I have jobs that I did over twenty years with Never peal that have never pealed. Don't forget to take the time to take off all the old pealing paint and feather out all edges. It all way's amazes me now many hacks are out there cutting corners and never take the time to do a good job at the prep. 
:jester:


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## masterblaster (Jun 5, 2007)

any updates on the peelbond or mad dog primer,bringing back a old thread here for results 5 yrs later. what is this other product,never peel,who makes that? 20 yrs is long time.Those large bubbles your talking about sound like a water leak in the door frame somewhere,there is no coating that will withstand more hydro static pressure than the bond created by the coating. 

Oil primer is a joke these days,all the voc compliance has rendered it useless,not to mention in a few yrs it will prolly not be available anymore anyway. Ive had great results for many yrs with SW latex exterior wood sealer primer and Mad dog primer depending on the substrate.


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