# Graco HVLP 9.5 Edge Gun



## alldaypainter (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm using my friends Graco Finishpro Turbine system to coat some cabinet doors with a brown latex, semi-gloss paint; however, he's out of town and unavailable to advise me on my issue, so I turn to u PaintTalk forum gurus for help.

The pictures below r of the first door after an initial sand, prime and first coat. My question is, y does the coat look so coarse and bumpy? I assumed it would have a smooth feel to it.

I have thinned the paint (approximately 5%) and I'm using the #4 fluid set (Graco recommends #5). I stuck with #4 bc I assumed that with a smaller needle, it would push out more material.

Should I sand down the first coat and re-coat?

Am I using the rite fluid set?

More thinner??

Any help for a first time poster would be greatly appreciated!


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Crappy paint? I actually have no clue as I don't spray, just throwing it out there.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

At first glance I assumed you did not sand them very well prior to paint or that your material was drying to fast to level out, I am not sure if that is not still true but after reading the thread it sounds like you did not thin enough or used the wrong needle. 

What type of paint are you using? How many did you spray before you decided something was not right? 

You will have to resand these doors to being slick, wipe them down and start over.


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## alldaypainter (Mar 3, 2012)

I've only sprayed 2 doors. I'm using Benjamin Moore Interior.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

What turbine is it? If it is less than a 5 stage, it will need more thinning. A 2.2 mm tip works better with latex. I do not recall the conversion from Graco tip #'s to mm.


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## alldaypainter (Mar 3, 2012)

Turboforce 5-stage. Sounds like I need to thin more and chk my needle selection.


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## alldaypainter (Mar 3, 2012)

Also, looks like the #5 needle option is the 2.2mm.

Thanks for all the feedback!

Paint on!


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

alldaypainter said:


> I'm using my friends Graco Finishpro Turbine system to coat some cabinet doors with a brown latex, semi-gloss paint; however, he's out of town and unavailable to advise me on my issue, so I turn to u PaintTalk forum gurus for help.
> 
> The pictures below r of the first door after an initial sand, prime and first coat. My question is, y does the coat look so coarse and bumpy? I assumed it would have a smooth feel to it.
> 
> ...



We're the doors painted previously?


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## alldaypainter (Mar 3, 2012)

We're the doors painted previously?[/QUOTE]

No, they were not painted or stained.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

alldaypainter said:


> We're the doors painted previously?


No, they were not painted or stained.[/QUOTE]

check your paint with the viscosity cup and adjust paint/needle as necessary, good luck !:thumbsup:


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

You must thin it quite a bit, use xim's latex extender, not water. Number 4 tip should be fine we use that setup quite a bit. What is Benjamin Moore interior? What line?


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

That is a lot of orange peel, it's gunna be a fair amount of sanding to get them smooth...if you do get them smooth, I recommend before you spray anymore doors try samples on some other areas before you mess up anymore doors until you get a smoother finish
I'm not familiar with that rig but I defiantly would thin the material some


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Finish isn't flowing as it should. Is that regal semi gloss, or impervx?


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

*microfoam*

You might be getting microfoam. HVLP mixes the paint with a lot of air. If the paint is too thick or has inadequate defoamers, microscopic air bubbles can be trapped.

An airless sprayer doesn't have this problem. Thinning with water might help, but lowers the solids requiring more passes.


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## RaleighPainter (Jun 13, 2011)

You must tune the fluid adjustment as well as the air adjustment to get the desired finish as well. Thin the product considerably and even go down a needle size. 

Here is how I did the last bathroom vanity set. Sand with 180, alcohol wipe, sand with 220 alcohol wipe.. Put the #3 needle in Primed with XIM's UMA Bonding primer - reduced 15% with XIM latex extender. Allowed to dry over night, lightly sanded the next morning, damp cloth (water) wipe. Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel Acrylic, reduced 15% with XIM latex extender 2 light coats (passes in opposite direction on second coat). 

Tuning for material - I turn the air a little less than halfway then slowly increase fluid output until I get a light and even pattern. Overlap evenly and always plan for 2 coats (this helps with applying too heavily). Finish looks like glass, latex paints are harder to get the exceptional finish with an hvlp but with some fine tuning it can be done! I like using sheet metal to test finish capability, as it is very smooth


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## lmvp17 (May 15, 2010)

:thumbup:


RaleighPainter said:


> You must tune the fluid adjustment as well as the air adjustment to get the desired finish as well. Thin the product considerably and even go down a needle size.
> 
> Here is how I did the last bathroom vanity set. Sand with 180, alcohol wipe, sand with 220 alcohol wipe.. Put the #3 needle in Primed with XIM's UMA Bonding primer - reduced 15% with XIM latex extender. Allowed to dry over night, lightly sanded the next morning, damp cloth (water) wipe. Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel Acrylic, reduced 15% with XIM latex extender 2 light coats (passes in opposite direction on second coat).
> 
> Tuning for material - I turn the air a little less than halfway then slowly increase fluid output until I get a light and even pattern. Overlap evenly and always plan for 2 coats (this helps with applying too heavily). Finish looks like glass, latex paints are harder to get the exceptional finish with an hvlp but with some fine tuning it can be done! I like using sheet metal to test finish capability, as it is very smooth


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The edge gun has one control for both fluid and air. There is an adapter to make it the 2 adjustememt version, but that is not stock.


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## The Paint Supplier (Mar 8, 2012)

The Question of which BM paint was never answered. This could make all the difference in how the finish will look. BM Impervex is an outstanding product not much thinning will be required and the finish result is about as close to a factory finish as you can get. If you are using any of the newer waterborne coatings, the set up time is much faster. Some paints just never look good through a HVLP, 5 stage or not. Fact is even the 5 stage sprays at about 10-12 PSI. Not very much when trying to atomize paint. You could also try using paint extenders a they will give more open time


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

The Paint Supplier said:


> The Question of which BM paint was never answered. This could make all the difference in how the finish will look. BM Impervex is an outstanding product not much thinning will be required and the finish result is about as close to a factory finish as you can get. If you are using any of the newer waterborne coatings, the set up time is much faster. Some paints just never look good through a HVLP, 5 stage or not. Fact is even the 5 stage sprays at about 10-12 PSI. Not very much when trying to atomize paint. You could also try using paint extenders a they will give more open time


Ok I have a possible client , doing samples for now. Wants a furniture glass like appearance . 
Suggested products advance 1 choice second ,maybe cabinet coat , impervex how would this work on maple . ? Impervx is what semi gloss 
Bm satin impervo to get that glass look . 
Just looking for the best finish I love the advance . !!!!'


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Ok I have a possible client , doing samples for now. Wants a furniture glass like appearance .
> Suggested products advance 1 choice second ,maybe cabinet coat , impervex how would this work on maple . ? Impervx is what semi gloss
> Bm satin impervo to get that glass look .
> Just looking for the best finish I love the advance . !!!!'


I had issues shooting cabinet coat through an airless and 3-10 and 4-10 FFT's. Little air bubbles all over. They went away mostly, as the finish dried, but if you look close you can see it in places. I will try advance next time. The cabinet coat TDS suggests hvlp, or using a .19 tip, to avoid the air bubbles. I tried my 3 stage turbine hvlp but seemed like I would need to thin it more than 20% to get good spray, and I didn't want to go that thin. Maybe I should have?


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