# Spraying- Vs.-Spraying & Back rolling?



## ecopainter (Mar 15, 2009)

Hey guys new to the posts. Thanks and if you have time check out my other post. I have heard a couple new school guys saying they can spray an entire house with out touching a brush or roller. My obvious response was it's going to flash, when you do touch ups after the other trades are finished installing trim, flooring, fixtures, etc. They said it won't flash. 

Are they using a foam roller to touch up? An HVLP? Seriously how is this possible or is it just another way to cut corners?
Thanks


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

If you are talking about exterior colors, some darker color will not touch up very well, as for as spraying and back rolling it depends on the siding, some you just can't roll very well, it's just spray.It's all part of the fantastic life of a painter.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

ecopainter said:


> Hey guys new to the posts. Thanks and if you have time check out my other post. I have heard a couple new school guys saying they can spray an entire house with out touching a brush or roller. My obvious response was it's going to flash, when you do touch ups after the other trades are finished installing trim, flooring, fixtures, etc. They said it won't flash.
> 
> Are they using a foam roller to touch up? An HVLP? Seriously how is this possible or is it just another way to cut corners?
> Thanks


 
It can be done. If you are using colors like Dover, Atrium, Ivory lace, ....builders whites, it can be done. Cheap paint ....master hide......the more clay the better. Spraying two directions, right tips, adding water and boxing all paint, keeping original paints at home for punch. The houses have to be simple tract homes. No large spans with alot of sunlight. This is not high end work. Blow and go. 

Touch up with 1/4 weinie roller. 

Why ....you trying to do it? When I first learned NC painting a old ex-union guy taught me techniques in spraying walls. I would never spray a wall today with out back rolling. Back rollng solves so many headaches with little cost.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

NEPS.US said:


> When I first learned NC painting a old ex-union guy taught me techniques in spraying walls. I would never spray a wall today with out back rolling. Back rollng solves so many headaches with little cost.


Same here. for years i did not back roll and now i have to do it. I do not spray many walls though usually only closets and garage. I back roll all my ceilings.


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## ecopainter (Mar 15, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> It can be done. If you are using colors like Dover, Atrium, Ivory lace, ....builders whites, it can be done. Cheap paint ....master hide......the more clay the better. Spraying two directions, right tips, adding water and boxing all paint, keeping original paints at home for punch. The houses have to be simple tract homes. No large spans with alot of sunlight. This is not high end work. Blow and go.
> 
> Touch up with 1/4 weinie roller.
> 
> Why ....you trying to do it? When I first learned NC painting a old ex-union guy taught me techniques in spraying walls. I would never spray a wall today with out back rolling. Back rollng solves so many headaches with little cost.


 
Thank you for the advice everyone. I am not really looking to do it anywhere yet, but have heard through the lines at the SW guys talking about it. I've always thought about it though, because for as long as I've painted, I've always just shot the lids (ceilings). I throw some water in there, box everything, and shoot it and it comes out really well. So my mind has always wondered "wouldn't life be so much easier if I could just shoot everything". 

I think its like what you guys are saying; really it just depends on the job, and color. I appreciate the input


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## ecopainter (Mar 15, 2009)

johnpaint said:


> If you are talking about exterior colors, some darker color will not touch up very well, as for as spraying and back rolling it depends on the siding, some you just can't roll very well, it's just spray.It's all part of the fantastic life of a painter.


John:

So like Hardi plank, probably best not to back roll? But what about stucco? Back roll right? And how about that tiny 3 inch slat siding...everypainters worst nightmare!!! Especially to caulk! What paint are you guys using?
Have you ever used a waterborne poly by Columbia? My employee was saying it's better the SW Wood Classic water poly, but strongly doubt that. Also have any of you tried the waterborne laquer from SW?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

ecopainter said:


> John:
> 
> So like Hardi plank, probably best not to back roll? But what about stucco? Back roll right? And how about that tiny 3 inch slat siding...everypainters worst nightmare!!! Especially to caulk! What paint are you guys using?
> Have you ever used a waterborne poly by Columbia? My employee was saying it's better the SW Wood Classic water poly, but strongly doubt that. Also have any of you tried the waterborne laquer from SW?


I back roll all siding that are vertical type. I never back roll lap sidings. Basicly if I can't roll up and down I don't roll.If it is very porous siding like rough cedar lap siding I will spray and it brush in.Stucco I would back roll, but we don't hove much of that up here.Don't know about Columbia paints.


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## michfan (Jul 6, 2008)

We have always, always backrolled everything when possible. I know some guys who swear backrolling is overrated, takes too much time, isn't as good as "smooth" ceilings or whatever. I have seen a few of these non-backrolled ceilings by some acquaintances of ours and it only made me confident in the fact that backrolling is the way to go! Backrolling makes life easier for us come touch up time...Just my 2 cents!


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## ecopainter (Mar 15, 2009)

Columbia paints was just bought out by SW in the last couple years. They have some really great products, but can't compete with the pricing I get from SW.

We don't have much stucco here as well. And when we do the stucco crew tints it and then applies it. I'd say 90% of residential houses are plank siding here, and the rest are log, or natural woods. I really like that feedback about the vertical, but can tell you that thankfully I have not had to paint a house in two years with T 111!!!

Michfan:
I've tried back rolling lids and just no matter what could not get them right!!! Thats funny that its the other way for you. Granted I have had a lot of my guys mess up a whole slew of ceilings by using a worn tip, or shooting to close or too far, or spraying the direction of the foot traffic. We have a lot of hand textures here and I have noticed that spraying lids on this type easier then orange peel, knockdown, etc. Level 5 is always a B no matter how you get down to it!!!


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I agree with that.I just take every house inside or out and look at it to see what would be the best, back roll or not. Some guy's think that back rolling is to much work, but it can save your butt sometimes too.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

There are too many houses here with that smooth Masonite crap and bats at every seam, I prefer to overlap spray and just get it done as quickly as possible. Every house here has a snow pitch roof (12/12) and cedar shingles, not to mention 3 stories high with a chimney stack that shoots up another 7'.

I miss Florida homes...nice and easy.


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## JCM (Jan 6, 2009)

ecopainter said:


> John:
> 
> And how about that tiny 3 inch slat siding...everypainters worst nightmare!!! Especially to caulk! quote]
> You probably shouldn't caulk that in, You need some sort of air flow so in the long run things don't rot.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

JCM said:


> ecopainter said:
> 
> 
> > John:
> ...


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## ecopainter (Mar 15, 2009)

Florida and California= stucco!!! Much less prep. When I got to Montana I had to learn how to bid all over again. I've had projects take just a week to caulk!

quote=ecopainter;62480]John:

And how about that tiny 3 inch slat siding...everypainters worst nightmare!!! Especially to caulk! quote]
You probably shouldn't caulk that in, You need some sort of air flow so in the long run things don't rot

Really? even on like a pressed board/ masonite material? I would love to never caulk that stuff again!!!


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

JCM said:


> You probably shouldn't caulk that in, You need some sort of air flow so in the long run things don't rot.


:lol:

Do you think you could try to be just a little more diplomatic? You are being to harsh on the guy!


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

when you are backrolling NC, what do you do in the corners? Corner roller, brush em out, or leave em?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Roll tight and leave em.


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