# How to achieve this paint finish



## maverick0312

I have a client that wants me to mimic the look of the attached photo. I cant seem to get it right. I'm a professional residential contractor, not a professional painter. If you have any insight I would be most appreciate.

Thanks 
Mathew


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## Epoxy Pro

Hire a pro faux painter.


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## slinger58

Is that a photograph or a painting?


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## mudbone

:whistling2:


maverick0312 said:


> I have a client that wants me to mimic the look of the attached photo. I cant seem to get it right. I'm a professional residential contractor, not a professional painter. If you have any insight I would be most appreciate.
> 
> Thanks
> Mathew


Use a high roller for best results!


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## maverick0312

slinger58 said:


> Is that a photograph or a painting?


its a photo from a website that a client game me. I owe her a favour so she asked me to try and duplicate it. Its just a wooden box in the shape of a dice


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## Lambrecht

That is a pretty straight forward simple faux job. Hire a pro faux finisher and they should be able to get it done pretty quick.


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## ridesarize

The die's numbers are not on the correct sides.


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## maverick0312

ridesarize said:


> The die's numbers are not on the correct sides.


Ya I know, the sides should always add to 7 but that's what you get for crappy mass production company's.


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## Underdog

ridesarize said:


> The die's numbers are not on the correct sides.


 Ha, I didn't catch it. That would make a good conversation piece to leave it wrong, but you'd just lose respect from those who notice.

I think the hard part would be indenting the pips.


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## fauxlynn

You can- Paint the whole thing rust.
Pick two color reds that are pretty close to each other- Paint the darker one everywhere, mix the other lighter one with a glaze and apply with a brush and then wipe a rag through each brush mark to create that 'streakiness' that I am seeing.let dry.
Take a wet rag and ,steel wool or wet sandpaper to wipe back that red/lt. red to expose the rust from underneath.
You can dirty up those white spots with a little glaze tinted with (preferably) raw umber, black,IMO is too harsh.
Or- you could sort of reverse that and end up randomly applying the rust on top of the other finish using a sponge and a rag.

Very shiny- needs several clear coats.


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## benthepainter

fauxlynn said:


> You can- Paint the whole thing rust. Pick two color reds that are pretty close to each other- Paint the darker one everywhere, mix the other lighter one with a glaze and apply with a brush and then wipe a rag through each brush mark to create that 'streakiness' that I am seeing.let dry. Take a wet rag and ,steel wool or wet sandpaper to wipe back that red/lt. red to expose the rust from underneath. You can dirty up those white spots with a little glaze tinted with (preferably) raw umber, black,IMO is too harsh. Or- you could sort of reverse that and end up randomly applying the rust on top of the other finish using a sponge and a rag. Very shiny- needs several clear coats.


can I come and work for you Lynn I would love to be a Faux Painter instead of a real one : (


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## fauxlynn

benthepainter said:


> can I come and work for you Lynn I would love to be a Faux Painter instead of a real one : (


Only if you cook everyday!!! (Let me check with Sean about that,lol)


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## Workaholic

benthepainter said:


> can I come and work for you Lynn I would love to be a Faux Painter instead of a real one : (


Me too Ben. Painting is just painting.


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## benthepainter

Workaholic said:


> Me too Ben. Painting is just painting.


I know Boring lol I want to be Ben the Faux Painter : )


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## BrushstrokesInc.

If it were me, I would do a 2x2 sample to get my colors correct. Once, I got my colors confirmed, I would start off with painting 2 base coats of red C2 Tango, then make a glaze with the Tango along with some Burnt Umber, Alizarin crimson, and possibly a touch of black.

Paint the dots.

Use the Glaze and roll over working area, then using a rag, cheese cloth, brushes etc. to pull off the dark glaze. You want to leave some areas covered with the glaze to mimic the photo. Sample boards are helpful in achieving the look you want.

The main open areas of the bright red will tone done from the wash of glaze and the darker rough areas will create those distressed areas on the die. 

Note: Lightly wash over the white dots as per photo..

Finish with 4-5 clear coats with wet sanding prior to your final coat. This block will more then likely be messed with a lot and may even be rolled a time or two. Have fun with it, make it your own the photo is just a reference for you.


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## cajabu

to get that distressed look, i use either wax or vaseline....usually vaseline is easier. 

paint your basecolour (in this case, looks like brownish umber on my screen) and let dry. rub, dab, smear vaseline along edges, corners, anywhere that the object would become naturally distressed over time. 

topcoat with your finish colour (red). allow to dry. 

sand the piece with fine steel wool to reveal the base colour. 

rub an antiquing glaze over the entire piece. ​


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## maverick0312

cajabu said:


> to get that distressed look, i use either wax or vaseline....usually vaseline is easier.
> 
> paint your basecolour (in this case, looks like brownish umber on my screen) and let dry. rub, dab, smear vaseline along edges, corners, anywhere that the object would become naturally distressed over time.
> 
> topcoat with your finish colour (red). allow to dry.
> 
> sand the piece with fine steel wool to reveal the base colour.
> 
> rub an antiquing glaze over the entire piece. ​


Thank you so much. It worked perfectly. With very minimal effort with my HVLP sprayer. The client is thrilled.


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## Underdog

maverick0312 said:


> Thank you so much. It worked perfectly. With very minimal effort with my HVLP sprayer. The client is thrilled.


 You happen to get a picture?


:cowboy:


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## cajabu

maverick0312 said:


> Thank you so much. It worked perfectly. With very minimal effort with my HVLP sprayer. The client is thrilled.



you're very welcome! i can't believe you did that within an hour and a half of me posting it, lol! nothing makes me happier than a happy client, i'm glad yours is thrilled.

yes please to the pics, if you can.


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## straight_lines

Chap Stick works just as well and is a lot less messy to work with.


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## fauxlynn

cajabu said:


> to get that distressed look, i use either wax or vaseline....usually vaseline is easier.
> 
> paint your basecolour (in this case, looks like brownish umber on my screen) and let dry. rub, dab, smear vaseline along edges, corners, anywhere that the object would become naturally distressed over time.
> 
> topcoat with your finish colour (red). allow to dry.
> 
> sand the piece with fine steel wool to reveal the base colour.
> 
> rub an antiquing glaze over the entire piece. ​


Huh, I never thought of using Vaseline. The last time I used wax as a resistance method for the paint it didn't work. We top coated with Aura and it took a lot of elbow grease to scrub the paint back. I will try to use Vaseline next time.


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## cajabu

i agree fauxlynn, the wax thing can be a chore in frustration, for lots of reasons. i find that with distressed finishes, it doesn't pay to use a really high quality paint, not for the top coat anyway. the acrylic, resins and binders in top notch paint makes distressing it difficult, even when you use a resist. that's why chalk paint is so popular right now for that shabby chic, antique look...it's actually a really cheap latex paint with little to no acrylic in it, not very durable, so it's easy to distress and sand back, easy to get it to crackle. a paint like aura is built to be super adherent, flexible and 'stretchy'....great for it's intended purpose, but not great for this kind of faux. 

i like that chapstick tip too, i always have a tube in my pocket, (ok in truth it's lipsmackers lol) but i wouldn't want to do a whole dining table (for example) with a tube of chapstick, lol...i'll be trying that one out on my own small art pieces at home tho, thanks for the hint, straight lines. 

edited: further thought (i apologize, once the wheels start to turn i tend to do this a lot  ) the chapstick thing would be great when you need to be very precise.....on elaborate moldings for example....i will definitely file that one away for future use, thanks again.


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## cajabu

oh...and!

using an hvlp sprayer as maverick did is perfect for the top coat. obviously vaseline is soft and will spread further and further with every brushstroke, so keep that in mind if you are brushing or rolling your top coat...be very gentle with it. spray it if you can, even if you have to use one of those prevail canister sprayers.


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## fauxlynn

Yeah, in that instance I chose the Aura trying to be more Eco friendly.I had not had that issue previously, so it had to be the Aura.

I will be doing my first chalk paint project in a couple weeks... yawn...I will be documenting here because I get asked about it a lot and also because they are kitchen cabinets. Fingers crossed.


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## A+HomeWork

straight_lines said:


> Chap Stick works just as well and is a lot less messy to work with.


DUDE! I carry chapstick everyday and never thought about that application. I don't antique or distress often, but chappy would certainly be easier. Thanks.:thumbsup:


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## zellerman2001

*Sub it out!*

Check with local artisans, art students at colleges in your area. I'm sure that someone will take on the project.


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## mudbone

straight_lines said:


> Chap Stick works just as well and is a lot less messy to work with.


Thanks Chap!:whistling2:


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## fauxlynn

I'm re-thinking the Vaseline thing. How can you roll over that and not end up with a mess? OR... since it is supposed to look a mess the Vaseline is okay? It's just that Vaseline is a petroleum product,yes? So, at some point, won't it cause an oily-ish problemo?:yes:


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## A+HomeWork

@fauxlynn
The Vaseline is good when spraying.


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