# High Build Primer



## jsheridan

Here's the job. The mosaic continues around the whole bath. What you can't see is that, someone(?, got no answer to that question) removed wallpaper and painted latex right over top of glue, no effort to remove any glue. Globs of glue and flaked paint needs prep. I'm planning the following;
-scrape and sand
-initial prime with cover stain, I'm thinking of using Gardz for the first time, any thoughts?
-spackle then sand
-*High build primer, I'm hoping to one skim and use the high build to level off.*
*-*two finish coats
All T$M, except for trim and ceiling.
Easy now, this was done by the homeowner who's a mosaic artist, and I can't be sure she doesn't read painttalk.

*What's a good high build primer?*, never worked with it before, *any tips on use*.


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## ewingpainting.net

If your thinking a highbuild primer is going to help with imperfections, It won't. Int. high build primers are designed for new drywall. Its like a prep coat and primer in one. It helps in hiding tape lines, creating a even surface. Not even as level but even as substrate. Eg, tape lines and drywall is a uneven surface, because the paper on the rock will absorb the paint differently than the muded tape lines. High build primes gives you an even surface for the paint to absorb evenly. You can use it, but it won't benefit you other than priming the substrate, depending on which hb primer you use. Some require a additional primer. SW high build is good and does not. I would just stick to using one primer for both.


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## jsheridan

Thanks Ewing, I thought I heard of a primer that fills minor surface imperfections. Maybe "high build" isn't the exact term I should be using. I only need to fill the thickness of the flaking finish, which the one skim coat should do. I was thinking of the high build to compensate for any shrinkage of the skim, to be on the safe side, and kill the second bird, priming the skim, with the same stone. Not sure where I saw it and google didn't turn up much.


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## ewingpainting.net

Paints and primers won't get rid of imperfections. The right preparation will. If your concerned about areas shrinking, then I would just go back with mud (20 min mud) and fill in those areas, then reprime and paint.


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## daArch

High build primer as in high clay content aka, builders flat? That's the root of so may problems especially when moisture is present to be absorbed by the clay.

Skim coat where necessary. A good job doesn't cost, it pays


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## ewingpainting.net

No Bill, he's talking about a high build PVA primer.


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## jsheridan

This is what I found from SW, it's formerly known as 
*PREPRITE® HIGH BUILD PRIMER/S**URFACER,*
here is a description

• Fills and surfaces rough and uneven
new​​​​*drywall *construction
• Uniforms various porosities between​
*drywall paper​*​​​​and *joints*​*
*• Ensures the finish coat will be a smooth
and uniform sheen
• Minimizes minor surface imperfections:
paper fuzz, minor sanding grooves,​nicks, pinholes.


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## ewingpainting.net

Yes, I used much of that primer. Give it whirl can't hurt. It just raises the mills on the highs and low areas uniformly. I'm sure it might help with VERY minor areas. I used it ont time thinking it would do the same (my own house) :no: not as I planed. It does work great on new drywall as it says.


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## straight_lines

If you put a good coat of that and sanded down the highs it will help some, and get minor imperfections out. Hide painted over glue not so much. Needs to be skimmed to get the finish you can be proud of, and make a discerning home owner happy.

How is the mosaic attached?


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## jsheridan

straight_lines said:


> If you put a good coat of that and sanded down the highs it will help some, and get minor imperfections out. Hide painted over glue not so much. Needs to be skimmed to get the finish you can be proud of, and make a discerning home owner happy.
> 
> How is the mosaic attached?


I'm planning on doing a little palm sanding with 80 on some of the worst glue patches prior to skimming, it I don't rattle the mosaic off I'll be okay. I didn't think the build would cover me on the raised glue patches, just the flaking areas, which is pretty much the entire surface. Not sure how it's attached actually, it's raised and it looks like the stuff of tile edges, not grout, but she did say she tried to remove some and it was stuck, so. As I said, I've never worked with the high build and I sense that it's thick, which might not be the easiest thing considering the cutting detail ahead of me. I guess I'm doing more than one skim if needed and regular prime, or skim/prime/skim prime. It has to look fabulous, it's pricey and a pro photographer is shooting it for inclusion on a website, la di da. I'll post pics when it's done. Thanks for all the input.


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## chrisn

jsheridan said:


> I'm planning on doing a little palm sanding with 80 on some of the worst glue patches prior to skimming, it I don't rattle the mosaic off I'll be okay. I didn't think the build would cover me on the raised glue patches, just the flaking areas, which is pretty much the entire surface. Not sure how it's attached actually, it's raised and it looks like the stuff of tile edges, not grout, but she did say she tried to remove some and it was stuck, so. As I said, I've never worked with the high build and I sense that it's thick, which might not be the easiest thing considering the cutting detail ahead of me. I guess I'm doing more than one skim if needed and regular prime, or skim/prime/skim prime. It has to look fabulous, it's pricey and a pro photographer is shooting it for inclusion on a website, la di da. I'll post pics when it's done. Thanks for all the input.


An hour or two should do it.:jester:


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## kdpaint

So, you have to skim between mosaic covered areas. Ugh. I did something similar and used barely flexible, different sized, ( 4" by 3", etc.) squared off cut plastic rectangles as mud "knives" to skim. Much better than 2 or 3" putty knives, as your hand is really close to wall, so you can be precise laying of the mud.


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## jsheridan

kdpaint said:


> So, you have to skim between mosaic covered areas. Ugh. I did something similar and used barely flexible, different sized, ( 4" by 3", etc.) squared off cut plastic rectangles as mud "knives" to skim. Much better than 2 or 3" putty knives, as your hand is really close to wall, so you can be precise laying of the mud.


Thanks, I might try my nylon knives used for Bondo.


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## TheRogueBristle

I would just go for two coats of skim, where necessary, and not rely on the primer to mask any imperfections. Granted, not an easy task given what you have to work around, but should save you in the end. I see a lot of sponging of mosaic pieces in your future.


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## jsheridan

TheRogueBristle said:


> I would just go for two coats of skim, where necessary, and not rely on the primer to mask any imperfections. Granted, not an easy task given what you have to work around, but should save you in the end. I see a lot of sponging of mosaic pieces in your future.


I hear you. I guess the high build is a pipe dream. Can't fault a guy for trying to make life easier. I'm planning on masking each of those mosaic sections individually, looped pieces of tape, press on masking paper, knife around the edge. I'm hoping to have minimal cleaning, also thinking about wet sanding.


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## TheRogueBristle

Or... you could just texture it. :jester:


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## boman47k

Sw sold me some Prep Rite for a pre-painted bdrm ceiling once. This room had a plaster ceiling with some hairline cracks.

When the ho came home and saw it, he loved it and told me to leave it, no need to paint.

He has an auto restoration business. Very expensive autos, mostly mid 50's Chevys. Some have been sold on Barret Jackson auction from what I understand. It did look very good. I left it with just the primer. :shutup:

I want to say the primer was a little pricey, but it did work easy and covered good.

He knew primer was not paint, but he talked like the cracks recur every couple of years or so. The ceiling flexes a little when someone walks across the floor in the upstairs addition.


I don't think it is necessary in your case/
clean, prime, skim until smooth/flat,prime, paint.
I like oil primer myself.

I don't know about Gaurdz in a bthrm. But, some people would not use oil in a bthrm either I guess.


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## boman47k

The more I look at that and think about the mosaic going around the room, the less I would look forward to painting it.


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## jsheridan

boman47k said:


> The more I look at that and think about the mosaic going around the room, the less I would look forward to painting it.


That's the kind of challenge I enjoy and excel at. And trust me, the pictures don't even begin to tell the whole story. I get calls from time to time from guys to do jobs that require that much detail attention and tedium. I actually can't wait to start Monday morning. However, I was a little apprehensive at first.


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## jsheridan

Finished. Three days, plus for the trim and ceiling. 
Day One
Full scrape and sand
Full prime with cover stain'
Day Two
Full skim ready mix usg
Sand
Full latex underbody
Day Three
Two coat BM Bath and Spa Color Windy Sky

Turned out great, she loves it, even though it cost her an arm and both legs. She wanted to do it in gray. I told her it reminds me of hot air balloons and kite string, paint it blue, like sky. She picks Cape Blue, real dark. No go, too dark. Rooms too small, detracts from the mozaic. Also, I was having to do with paint what she didn't do with grout and a real dark color would have reavealed a lot of the imperfections. Trim color is BM Decorators White. Anyway, thanks for the help.


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## ewingpainting.net

Great! :thumbup: glad it worked out for ya. Looks good


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## TheRogueBristle

Looks excellent dude. Does the artwork justice. Or vice-versa. However you want to look at it:thumbup:

Edit: Color alone is a big improvement. Nice choice.


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