# Paint over



## guardi pro

Have a client that is wanting to paint over her wallpaper in the kitchen.:no: Not a great idea, i know... No way this will have a warranty. But we have done work for her before and she is a good client. Would you apply BIN for a primer or Gardz? The paper looks to be in good shape, no peeling or anything of that nature. The paper has been on for 10 yrs +. 2 finish coats of Ben Moore after primer.


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## Workaholic

Not the prefered route, but i have had to do it before. Primed with oil primer and then 2 coats of paint.


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## ProWallGuy

Yeah, use a heavy bodied oil, not BIN. An enamel underbody works well.


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## Brushslingers

Bushdude said:


> as with all spraying is the best solution to any problem.


Ya but it's inside... I've done one or two with a silica high build latex... but the heavy oil works better... one of the few things I still use oil for.


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## slickshift

If I absolutely have to paint over wallpaper, it's oil-based primer for sure


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## guardi pro

Okay, thanks for the information !


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## Brian

You probably will need to float the seams, or they will show.

Brian Phillips


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## 4ThGeneration

Using a oil based primer is a must because water based primer will cause the paper to start bubbling, so no matter how much you hate the smell stick with the oil as a primer. 

I would float all the seams first, sand, dust, oil prime then two coats of a 100% acrylic finish. Do not use a cheap paint on this. You need all the help you can get when it comes to painting over wallpaper, but it beats stripping the paper that ends up tearing up the sheetrock.


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## frankcanpaint

I'd prefer not to paint over paper, I have used both oil and bin. Bin, shellac based primer, although somewhat runny and stinky dries fast and has never lifted the paper. I use it when the job contains part paper and part unpapered and the same topcoat colour is to be used throughout. It effectively seals any staining also. Once dry I have then done some filling and repairing without the glue lifting and have painted over with a quality latex with never any lifting. I think that it is a kickass product when you wear your respirator. If the job entails painting only over paper then I have used only oil throughout. Why would you not use Bin Pro Wall Guy?


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## Bushdude

If it's been on for 10 years with a primer and 2 finish coats, just paiont it with latex, no big deal....


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## welovepainting

sherwin williams sells a Pro Block oil base oderless primer which we use for these types of projects. We acctual have been doing this for nearly 15 years no complaints.


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## chrisn

*Mr*

If it's been on for 10 years with a primer and 2 finish coats, just paiont it with latex, no big deal....

Now there is some bad advice:blink: :no: :no:


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## Bushdude

Good job, bad job, same price...


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## timhag

Oil base primer is a must


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## Tmrrptr

Wow! Kitchen may be the worst room to cut corners in... probably is.
If it was a steamy bathroom, paper probably would have come down already.

But if it's been painted over already, for years, it's just a normal repaint that does not get a warranty because the substrate is undeniably suspect.

Oil primer seems pretty popular with the group.
...I don't use it anymore...
A light coat of PVA over wallpaper, then another, after tack, and allowed to dry completely will suffice in keeping the moisture in latex paint from loosening properly adhered wallpaper.
If there's lots of probs with the paper, well, all bets are off.
r


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## Painter James

I am SO glad I thought to check the site and this thread before painting over the paper in my current client's house. I told them I've never done it, always removed the paper, but they're insisting on doing it this way to save on labor...so I'm with the "this is a bad idea, no warranty" crowd, but going with an oil primer.

BTW, it's in a bathroom with NO ventilation, but the paper has been on nearly 20 years with no problem. I know it wasn't sized properly, so I don't want to even try to remove it (they said their other bathroom was a real chore to remove and they ripped up the 'rock).

Thanks, all! You confirmed what I suspected, but I needed to hear it from other pro's.


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## Thepaintman

I, too, don't like painting over wallpaper but when it is required because the client will not pay to have it removed I usually use Zinnser's Cover Stain. I like ti use this product over an oil primer because I I don;t have to wait overnight to topcoat. Then two coats of a premium topcoat


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## GMack

4ThGeneration said:


> Using a oil based primer is a must because water based primer will cause the paper to start bubbling, so no matter how much you hate the smell stick with the oil as a primer.
> 
> I would float all the seams first, sand, dust, oil prime then two coats of a 100% acrylic finish. Do not use a cheap paint on this. You need all the help you can get when it comes to painting over wallpaper, but it beats stripping the paper that ends up tearing up the sheetrock.


I would actually oil-prime first. Then float out the seams. The mud could activate the glue in the paper the same way the paint could. Just my $.02

Mack


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## GMack

Thepaintman said:


> I, too, don't like painting over wallpaper but when it is required because the client will not pay to have it removed I usually use Zinnser's Cover Stain. I like ti use this product over an oil primer because I I don;t have to wait overnight to topcoat. Then two coats of a premium topcoat


Cover Stain is an oil-based primer. You may be confusing it with 1-2-3, which is also a Zinnser product. 

Mack


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## Painter James

Well said, GMack. I, too would (did) oil prime first. Mud on seams would be the same problem as painting directly on the unprimed seam.


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## jmda

*Painting over wallpaper*

We use a shellac based primer and then mud and sand the seams.


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## vermontpainter

Bushdude said:


> Good job, bad job, same price...


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## CApainter

"The paper has been on for 10 yrs +. 2 finish coats of Ben Moore after primer."

I think Guardi is saying he will apply the two coats of BM after prime.

If it's vinyl, I would go with BIN.


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## jmda

jmda said:


> We use a shellac based primer and then mud and sand the seams.


Want to say that I have since learned a better way. But still prefer removing all wallpaper. Even if it tears up the drywall I use Zinsser Gardz, sand and then mud where necessary. 

Gardz also works over wallpaper better than a shellac primer with the added bonus of water clean up.

To my knowledge this is the only water based product (and competitors versions of it - SW has one) that will "prime" wallpaper glue.


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## chrisn

To my knowledge this is the only water based product (and competitors versions of it - SW has one) that will "prime" wallpaper glue.

That is correct, except it is *PASTE*


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## speedy472

I always cut the seams down and peel off the 1/8 inch overlap, mud seems to stick better that way,. I cut the corners out too,....bin will work if ya already have it......


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## painterdude

I've always cut away any bad sections and caulked edges....covered with good primer sealer and added some mud to the finish paint to give an orange peel effect. Of course I always try to talk homeowner out of painting over paper..I tell them it looks like an old dentist office or student housing. If however they can't afford to re do the room, I do what I can, explaining that it might fail eventually.


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## Induspray

I agree prime with a high solids oil primer. 

We did 30,000 ft of painting over wall coverings last year in an appartment building where the owner did not want to pay to have it stripped. If the wallpaper has any sort of texture on it, dont try and do any sort of filling of the seams and sanding or the walls will look horrible. 

You are better off oil priming the walls and painting with latex with the seams still there, than to have a texture with funny smooth bands every couple feet.


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## tzimmerm

I hate these situations. Had a client that wanted paint over a textured wallpaper. Oil base is a must!


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## WisePainter

tzimmerm said:


> I hate these situations. !


You mean threads that are bumped from before my Grandfather was born?

Honestly, painting over wallpaper is a no win situation. Even if you get the paper to "stay down" the finish texture is bizarre and looks terrible.


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## MrRuiz

*wallpaper*

I got couple jobs where it was up to me to remove or paint over wallpaper 
however, I did not like the experience of painting over wallpaper because it tends to start peeling over few months 
some oil base primer activate the glue and makes the wall paper to inflate the paint the it cracks . 
best way I will recommend is removing and plastering the surface then paint. lots of work but you know is a right thing to do and it wont. 
as it is.. God's rules!


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## daArch

MrRuiz said:


> I got couple jobs where it was up to me to remove or paint over wallpaper
> however, I did not like the experience of painting over wallpaper because it tends to start peeling over few months
> some oil base primer activate the glue and makes the wall paper to inflate the paint the it cracks .
> best way I will recommend is removing and plastering the surface then paint. lots of work but you know is a right thing to do and it wont.
> as it is.. God's rules!



Mr R.

1st, I like your commitment to NOT to paint over wallpaper.

BUT, for an average wallpaper that has been installed correctly, removal should NOT be an ordeal......unless it was on raw rock.


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## BC_Painter

daArch said:


> Mr R.
> 
> 1st, I like your commitment to NOT to paint over wallpaper.
> 
> BUT, for an average wallpaper that has been installed correctly, removal should NOT be an ordeal......unless it was on raw rock.


Almost all wallpaper I remove is an ordeal.... 

Just my luck 

I've had the odd time it went well, but 95% of the time glue was hard as rck, back layer of paper was impossible to get off, and sealer on the the drywall did little to protect the drywall during the removal process


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