# dap 33



## ellas70 (Apr 4, 2011)

has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
2 did you use a primer over it ?
3 oil or latex primer?


----------



## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

ellas70 said:


> has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
> i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
> 1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
> 2 did you use a primer over it ?
> 3 oil or latex primer?


For what?


----------



## billy the kid (Jan 22, 2011)

easy to work with takes a while to dry be sure to read the back and follow recomendations cause i know if you paint before dry you ll just be making more of an issue,any primer will work:thumbup:


----------



## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

1. that stuff takes FOREVER to "dry". I've waited about a week before priming to allow it to skin over. Sometimes you'll even need to wipe it down before priming because it collects a lot of debris.

2. always

3. oil-based, always.

it's good to have some linseed oil with you to bring the glazing back to life if it has sat out too long. It's also a good idea to prime the mullions w/ the same oil-base, (or BIN since it dries fast), before you put the glazing in. I assume you are indeed glazing windows right??


----------



## Harry (Aug 4, 2008)

ellas70 said:


> has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
> i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
> 1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
> 2 did you use a primer over it ?
> 3 oil or latex primer?


It's great stuff
1) One to 3 weeks...depends. Touch it and if it seems like it has a skin, it should be ok.
2) Yes, you need to prime.
3) Only oil primer...then acrylic finish.


----------



## Harry (Aug 4, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> 1. that stuff takes FOREVER to "dry". I've waited about a week before priming to allow it to skin over. Sometimes you'll even need to wipe it down before priming because it collects a lot of debris.
> 
> 2. always
> 
> ...


Oops...I see that you answered...


----------



## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

hey at least Harry and I are on the same page :thumbsup:


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Use it all the time, and IMHO it takes all summer to "dry"......


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I think anyone who has used DAP "33" is on that page.

Few other tips. I like to "prime" the muntins with penetrol. The bare wood needs to be primed with something so it don't suck the oils out of the "33".

As stated, you can create the workability you like with linseed oil, or if you like Penetrol.

Different weather conditions determine different skin over times. You may prime (with oil) when skinned. Sometimes later the same day, but not often. I can't remember ever waiting a week. Maybe a day, unless it's 30 degrees. 

The application of it has many variations, from snaking it to just applying with a putty knife, Cutting it seems to easiest for all with a 1 1/2" CLEAN, NEW semi-flex blade. Knife corners do need to be crisp to get nice corners of the glazing. 

BTW, are back puttying the glass ?


----------



## Harry (Aug 4, 2008)

daArch said:


> I think anyone who has used DAP "33" is on that page.
> 
> Few other tips. I like to "prime" the muntins with penetrol. The bare wood needs to be primed with something so it don't suck the oils out of the "33".
> 
> ...


I've never seen it being ok the same day...unh unh lol


----------



## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

no back putting for me Arch unless a new piece of glass would be going in. (is that what you meant?)


----------



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

I have used my share of Dap 33 for glazing windows and as others have said, you need to prime bare wood (or linseed oil or apperently penetrol) and lest skin before priming again. I like to let the 33 sit for as long as possible (up to 2 weeks) before priming with coverstain. 

Anymore though, FWIW I use Aquaglaze and acrylic primers for the odd pane repair or whole window. I have to assume the oil is the better product, but the Aqua seems adequate.


----------



## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I am confused, I'ved used DAP 33 - and it seems I have to come back a couple of months after I finished the job before I can prime the window putty. That stuff takes forever to cure.


----------



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Stuff's too oily for me, even when mixing in powder to soak it up. It's like working with taffy. UGL makes a great glazing.
Oil prime the sash
10-14 days cure
oil prime glazing
Any latex will fail


----------



## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.


----------



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

NEPS.US said:


> I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.


Are you post 78 too? It's a lonely crowd.


----------



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

NEPS.US said:


> I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.


Well La-Ti-Da. :jester:


----------



## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

jsheridan said:


> Are you post 78 too? It's a lonely crowd.


It's the only way to fly.


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> no back putting for me Arch unless a new piece of glass would be going in. (is that what you meant?)



that's what I meant.

Although, I had been known to shove some 33 in between glass and muntins when doing interior work. Twas not as a regular course of action, but just sometimes on those old homes that were getting an A-1 job.

And to those who wait a week or more to prime, maybe my memory has completely gone, but I can't recall waiting days or weeks to prime new 33. On some homes that would mean making another trip back to the site just to finish the windows ?


----------



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

daArch said:


> that's what I meant.
> 
> Although, I had been known to shove some 33 in between glass and muntins when doing interior work. Twas not as a regular course of action, but just sometimes on those old homes that were getting an A-1 job.
> 
> And to those who wait a week or more to prime, maybe my memory has completely gone, but I can't recall waiting days or weeks to prime new 33. On some homes that would mean making another trip back to the site just to finish the windows ?


Which is why a lot of guys don't wait. When I have a lot to do, the sash is where I start, that way the glazing is skimming as everything else is being brought along. By the time I get to the sash, it's usually skinned enough. I'm pretty anal about giving as much time as possible. As I said, I use UGL which is less oily and skims faster.


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I think i know one paInter here who would come back after letting it dry for 2 months and think he should be paid for the dry time....


----------



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

jsheridan said:


> When I have a lot to do, the sash is where I start, that way the glazing is skimming as everything else is being brought along.


This is one way to do it and usually what I do its a few panes and repairs. In a few cases, in the years before RRP, I have removed most of the sash and done them on a bench or offsite. Wait for glazing to dry, paint both sides, reinstall.


----------



## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

How can you wait that long to finish a job? I can't see letting it sit for two weeks. I haven't glazed any windows in a while. We used to paint over it the next day. Do that make any glazing that dries overnight? I always used 33. I think I've Glazol once too.


----------



## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> How can you wait that long to finish a job? I can't see letting it sit for two weeks. I haven't glazed any windows in a while. We used to paint over it the next day. Do that make any glazing that dries overnight? I always used 33. I think I've Glazol once too.


I looked up Dap33 and UGL Glazol TDS for my own knowledge, formally. Dap33 says may skin enough as early as seven days but could be 2-3 weeks, and needs oil prior to latex finish.
Glazol says allow over night to finish with oil, allow several days prior to latex but doesn't mention oil prime prior.
Not sure if I would be comfortable without a hit of coverstain at least. 

BTW, my sister and her family live in Reading.


----------



## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

DanielMDollaPainting said:


> How can you wait that long to finish a job?


Imagine a 4,000+ square foot house, some parts over 115 years old, that has been long neglected and gets a new owner. Complete remodel/ restoration/rehab, including new paint inside and out. It takes longer than two weeks.


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

TheRogueBristle said:


> Imagine a 4,000+ square foot house, some parts over 115 years old, that has been long neglected and gets a new owner. Complete remodel/ restoration/rehab, including new paint inside and out. It takes longer than two weeks.


That would _not _be my average exterior. Most homes here in Chicago are brick. We are usually just painting fascia, eaves, windows, railings & doors. Our _average _time on site is 3-4 days......


----------



## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

I cant think of a better way to get stuck on a job......glaze some windows!


----------



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Is it me, or is this subject being over thunk ?


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

daArch said:


> Is it me, or is this subject being over thunk ?


:yes::yes::yes:

"Get R Dun".....


----------



## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

About 50% of my summer work is re glazing. There are much better products than 33. Crawford's putty is my go to. I could bash 33, but I'm beat. UGL in a pinch.


----------



## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

prime it with Cover Stain and paint that day.....LMAO @ waiting WEEKS !! wow !!!.......the oil leaves a ''shell'' over the 33 enabling you to finish paint that day  .........let it cure on its on after that.............i usually toss some 20-set powder on my 33 ball then glaze, sucks up some of the oil or ill roll it around on some newspaper


----------



## b2dap1 (Mar 18, 2009)

I am doing some windows and old wood storm sashes This week. After a full day of prep and cleaning them on Friday I will be glazing on Monday and priming with cover stain on Tuesday morning...NO WORRIES!! Then onto latex finish (2 coats)


----------

