# PVA primer



## emmsvs

I used a pva primer on a previously painted bathroom ceiling and walls. I did not paint over the primer yet. I am told that PVA should not have been used in prep of painting. Will the PVA affect the painting in the bathroom (peeling, flaking etc) or will it be ok. 

If this was the wrong choice, how can i fix the problem


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## Workaholic

PVA is really more of a drywall primer/sealer best for unpainted drywall. If you just used it as a primer on a previously painted surface it probably was not the best choice, unless you were spot priming some drywall mud. 

For a bath room I would be looking for a better stain blocker, are you a professional?


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## emmsvs

*pva primer*

i am in an apprentice program. is there any way to correct the problem


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## NEPS.US

emmsvs said:


> i am in an apprentice program. is there any way to correct the problem


 
Yes, stop going to the Home Depot paint desk and hire a pro.


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## Workaholic

Depending on your reason for priming there might not even be a problem, if you are unsure or simply really worried about it I would sand the pva rather generously and reprime with either a oil based primer/stain blocker or Bullseye 123 waterbased stainblocker primer. 

Of course you never said what your reasons for priming are but in the bathroom you often can run into stubborn stains.

What type of apprenticeship program? State run? Private? How long is the program before Journeyman is achieved?


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## emmsvs

*pva primer*

the program is through a private company and the local union. 
i recently started there. 

the primer was used since the ceiling was just textured. while using it on the ceiling we used it on the walls as well.


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## Workaholic

emmsvs said:


> the program is through a private company and the local union.
> i recently started there.
> 
> the primer was used since the ceiling was just textured. while using it on the ceiling we used it on the walls as well.


If you were not trying to cover up a stains on the walls you may be alright, again in the future I would select another primer but I do use PVA for new drywall.

How long is the whole program? You should be able to slide into a good union job from it.


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## emmsvs

*pva primer*

its a 4 year program. about 6000 hours of on the job work. 

was not trying to cover any stains. was trying to protect the joint compound that textured the ceiling. would have asked someone at work but didnt want to hear the jokes that would follow


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## Workaholic

For the ceiling it is fine, sounds like you will probably be fine on the walls as well.

Someone else will probably jump in and concur and another may jump in to say PVA sucks lol.


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## johnpaint

It won't hurt at all.


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## emmsvs

*pva primer*

this was a sealer as well. does that matter


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## Workaholic

emmsvs said:


> this was a sealer as well. does that matter


Nope, all PVA's that I know of are sealers as well.


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## Metro M & L

I wouldn't sweat it. 

But to be on the safe side you could perform an adhesion test on the walls. Score an 'x' in the primer then apply some packing tape over the top of it. Pull it off. If the paint remains on the wall you're golden. Otherwise sand it off or bury it under more primer and paint. Or tear out all the rock and start over. 

It's just primer. Yer fine.


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## straight_lines

You'll be fine.


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## TJ Paint

Metro M & L said:


> I wouldn't sweat it.
> 
> 
> tear out all the rock and start over.
> 
> 
> Yer fine.


:thumbsup:

it wont matter at all unless

u primed over very dirty, oily, stained stuff, glossy stuff. even then, just test for bleed through, adhesion. Reprime if you see problems.


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## DeanV

To be honest, I do not think the paint store I go to even carries a PVA primer nor have I ever used on to my knowledge.

Is PVA just an old school thing?


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## johnpaint

DeanV said:


> To be honest, I do not think the paint store I go to even carries a PVA primer nor have I ever used on to my knowledge.
> 
> Is PVA just an old school thing?


Kidding right?


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## Slingah

DeanV said:


> To be honest, I do not think the paint store I go to even carries a PVA primer nor have I ever used on to my knowledge.
> 
> Is PVA just an old school thing?


it's just a cheap, thin primer mostly used on bare drywall...I believe it is clay based


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## DeanV

I have always used either BM 253 or 260 (vapor barrier) or PPG 6-2 on drywall.


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## Workaholic

DeanV said:


> To be honest, I do not think the paint store I go to even carries a PVA primer nor have I ever used on to my knowledge.
> 
> Is PVA just an old school thing?


No, it is just a drywall sealer, mostly used in NC because it is used to seal new drywall. Not the kind of primer you use for wood work or anything like that.


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## Workaholic

DeanV said:


> I have always used either BM 253 or 260 (vapor barrier) or PPG 6-2 on drywall.


6-2 is PVA
I use PPG's 6-2 as well.


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## DeanV

I like some build to my drywall primers, so I maybe would not even like it.


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## Paradigmzz

poly vinyl acetate is still sold pretty much everywhere. Sherwin Williams calls it Walsach.


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## johnpaint

It is really the best bang for the buck out there for good looking drywall at a good price. I only use the heavy bodied stuff though, even that is still about45 bucks for a five I think.


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## hoz

emmsvs said:


> its a 4 year program. about 6000 hours of on the job work.
> 
> was not trying to cover any stains. was trying to protect the joint compound that textured the ceiling. would have asked someone at work but didnt want to hear the jokes that would follow


I remember my first year as a cub. I was the first guy in my local to have long hair and was kidded relentlessly by the journeymen. Big fun. Keep your nose to the grindstone, be on time, care about your work, and don't sweat the small stuff. 

As for jokers, there are several of them on this board also so youmight as well get used to it. 

The PVA won't hurt anything.


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## DeanV

I guess I do not spend as much time reading the TDS info as I think I do!


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## Workaholic

hoz said:


> As for jokers, there are several of them on this board also so youmight as well get used to it.


You must have your boards mixed up. :whistling2:


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## Rob

As much as i like Sherwin Williams paint, I don't like the primer. I have been using Primez by Devoe for a few years and really like it. It's a high build and I don't always have to backroll. depends on the texture.


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## jack pauhl

Ideally, in theory, PVA is used for adhesion on porous surfaces. PVA's are typically thin which helps for penetrating. Other than its glue-like properties, its also suppose to provide a sound coating for the top coat. BUT like vitamins etc, just because generic says the same ingredients as Advil, they're not the same. Just like all acrylic paints arent the same when they have the same ingredients. 

If anything, this guy using PVA might have better adhesion vs many primers. In theory. PVA's are typically pushed for new drywall but I suggest skipping the middleman and stick (no pun intended) with Gardz. Treating new board properly involves more than primer/sealers offer. In bad cases where you have poor board, I wouldnt hesitate to use Gardz then a primer for build, then paint. Its a new surface, it needs work to get it ready for paint.


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## DeanV

I REALLY like the surface 6-2 gives. It may be a PVA but one sprayed and backrolled coat of primer looks better than many blow-and-go finished products. Leaves a nice even stipple to hide seams, slight sheen gives it better hold out than some others IMO.


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## jack pauhl

DeanV said:


> I REALLY like the surface 6-2 gives. It may be a PVA but one sprayed and backrolled coat of primer looks better than many blow-and-go finished products. Leaves a nice even stipple to hide seams, slight sheen gives it better hold out than some others IMO.


I'm going to have to get my hands on that 6-2, keep hearing good things on here about it. It's got to pass a simple tape test though for me. If I cant stick a piece of blue tape on it the day after without it pulling, its no good for me.


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## DeanV

By the way, the spec sheet says it is a vinyl acrylic. Is that the same as a vinyl acrylic acetate?

I have not done the tape test on it though. I do not mask to drywall in my finishing procedures. Cabinetry gets masked, but not walls.


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## jack pauhl

DeanV said:


> By the way, the spec sheet says it is a vinyl acrylic. Is that the same as a vinyl acrylic acetate?
> 
> I have not done the tape test on it though. I do not mask to drywall in my finishing procedures. Cabinetry gets masked, but not walls.


I'll have to pull it up. what is it PPG? I dont mask walls either but I want stuff to stick rather than just sitting there on the wall. I guess if you are going to buy something like Aura or any of the pricier paints, you want to make sure its going over something sound. I paint bare drywall all week long, so its a bit more important to me vs res work.


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## DeanV

Yep, it is PPG. I do now want to test and see if it holds tape well or not though. I like the idea of Gardz, but do not like the idea of having to do 2 coats of primer (1 gardz and one regular) to get the final effect that I like from a primer.


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## jack pauhl

DeanV said:


> Yep, it is PPG. I do now want to test and see if it holds tape well or not though. I like the idea of Gardz, but do not like the idea of having to do 2 coats of primer (1 gardz and one regular) to get the final effect that I like from a primer.


Yep... understand. There are options there too tho. 1 Gardz plus 2 of a high solids coat of paint. I produced some very nice walls with that system using ICI/Glidden Professional Ultra-Hide semi-matte. Very nice build and can be pushed on millage. I really like to find the point where paint wants to give and typically apply it at that mil. 

I guess in other words, I have no problem doing 2 coats of Ultra-Hide semi-matte (lo sheen) over bare drywall. Did it for years but Gardz makes the sheen more true for touchups and offers superior adhesion. In this scenario, with that paint, Gardz is over kill but has benefits. 

It's a real sampling game, testing stuff. If you end up testing that 6-2 before me, test it in at least 8 places on a wall. If one gives, its a fail because that wont be the only area that pulls.


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## bikerboy

jack pauhl said:


> what is it PPG?



Pittsburgh Plate Glass
Better known as Pittsburgh Paints​


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## jack pauhl

bikerboy said:


> Pittsburgh Plate Glass
> Better known as Pittsburgh Paints​


haha.. I think u read that wrong. I know who PPG is, we have a local store. I didnt know for sure if 6-2 was a PPG product or whos it was.


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## hammerheart14

DeanV said:


> To be honest, I do not think the paint store I go to even carries a PVA primer nor have I ever used on to my knowledge.
> 
> Is PVA just an old school thing?


I sell lots of PVA primer. It's only for new drywall though. Holds back the ph factor of the drywall mud. I wouldn't use it for anything else though!


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## memeticeffects

NEPS.US said:


> Yes, stop going to the Home Depot paint desk and hire a pro.


 Totally unhelpful and unprofessional answer.


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## Smilingpolitely

memeticeffects said:


> Totally unhelpful and unprofessional answer.


2010 was a lawless time for painting!


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## RH

memeticeffects said:


> Totally unhelpful and unprofessional answer.


The member you are responding to posted his comment 12 years ago - and I don’t think he has been active here for about the last 8 years. Just saying.


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