# exterior Priming - oil vs latex



## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

Being of the latex generation, (and living in NY, where the only oil-based products are alkyd primers), I have only been using oil-based products to prime metal, cover stains, or to ready oil trim work for latex.

I was working a screened-in porch this week that had 13 - 8x3 (severely neglected) wood frames for the sceening. Due to the large portions of exposed weathered wood and rusty nail heads, decided to go over the entire surface of each frame with a sander and cover completely with BM's all purpose alkyd primer. Having been only using latex on exteriors, I must say I was quite impressed with the coverage on bare wood.

I am now considering using oil primer more often on extereriors and I am intererested to hear some comments on the advantages and disadvantages of each (latex/oil) for exterior piriming. 

Or what conditions are better for one over the other.
Are there conditions where you wouldnt want to use a oil primer?


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## StripandCaulk (Dec 30, 2011)

Matt- i usually always use Muralo x200 slow dry oil (x300 if its a dark base) for bare wood. I personally think oil sinks in better. It also blocks tannin bleed on redwood and cedar.

If its not a tanning rich wood, like a doug fir. I would consider using latex(i probably will now since i cant buy oil based products anymore)

Your wash should remove all the chalking on a paint surface, however if it doesnt..oil primer will go over it better than a latex.

I like oil


Btw if you use ben moore..the penetrating primervis better than the all purpose alkyd primer for the application you described. i would have cleaned the beams if they were weathered and hit them with that if i was using BM


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I used to use oil almost exclusively on exteriors and then for some reason I got away from it. I went through a phase where I was using duration on everything (spot priming and then one full, generous coat), but I really think I'm going to go back to priming everything with oil again. I used it some towards the end of last season, and I had forgotten how well it penetrates and seals bare wood. It really gives you a feeling of confidence when you use a long oil after meticulous scraping and sanding. My favorites are BM Fresh Start penetrating oil, and SW A-100 (I think they call it something else now). I've also used the BM Fresh Start fast dry oil with good results. I was at a new paint store the other day and the guy gave me a gallon of California exterior oil to try, so I'm curious to see how that stuff is to work with.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

If I have a lot of bare wood or ferrous metal to prime, I usually will go with oil.

If it's stucco or non-ferrous metal, I'll go with acrylic.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

I like PPG SealGrip, sticks like a booger on a wool blanket


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

HQP2005 said:


> Being of the latex generation, (and living in NY, where the only oil-based products are alkyd primers), I have only been using oil-based products to prime metal, cover stains, or to ready oil trim work for latex.
> 
> I was working a screened-in porch this week that had 13 - 8x3 (severely neglected) wood frames for the sceening. Due to the large portions of exposed weathered wood and rusty nail heads, decided to go over the entire surface of each frame with a sander and cover completely with BM's all purpose alkyd primer. Having been only using latex on exteriors, I must say I was quite impressed with the coverage on bare wood.
> 
> ...


Exterior raw wood-always oil primer. Interior raw wood-whatever it takes


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

mpminter said:


> I was at a new paint store the other day and the guy gave me a gallon of California exterior oil to try, so I'm curious to see how that stuff is to work with.


 I love California products, did they give you Prime Choice, or the long oil Troubleshooter? Troubleshooter is a great primer, I have used it on many older New England homes with great results.:thumbup: I am not familiar with Prime Choice though...


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## HQP2005 (Feb 14, 2012)

kdpaint said:


> I love California products, did they give you Prime Choice, or the long oil Troubleshooter? Troubleshooter is a great primer, I have used it on many older New England homes with great results.:thumbup: I am not familiar with Prime Choice though...


I started using California's "Grip Coat" as my go to bonding primer for glossy surfaces and plastic, vinyl, metal etc. works great :thumbsup:

I found the Troubleshooter to be to thin and hard to keep from running.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Troubleshooter thin? Hmmnn.... I have not had that problem except on a really hot day, 90+. It is my favorite long oil. GripCoat is really good, their Ceramic is great, DTM is great.... love that Cali.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Matthew,

One adage I heard and liked went:

"oil to the wood, acrylic to the weather"


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Spreading california troubleshooter will kill your wrists! Who the heck thinks that is thin primer? That stuff is the thickest on the market - the quicker dry version is even worse!


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

plainpainter said:


> Spreading california troubleshooter will kill your wrists! Who the heck thinks that is thin primer? That stuff is the thickest on the market - the quicker dry version is even worse!


No doubt, but it(troubleshooter) is good stuff.


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## paintnow (Dec 11, 2011)

With exterior oil primer, you need to wait an extra day or two (depending on temps) before applying the finish coat. It may feel dry to the touch, but oil primer, like most alkyd products, needs to dry thoroughly.


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