# New Pella Window Staining



## Greg Mrakich (Apr 19, 2010)

Customer of mine just had 7 new replacement windows installed. The outside is pre finished at the factory, but the inside is raw wood....pine to be exact. I have matched the stain and it is a very good match. My question is, is there anything I need to do before staining? Was told by installer they were "ready to go." but was just wondering. I do not do a lot of staining, mostly touch up.
Thanks.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Pine can be very blotchy, and without a pre-treatment of some sort can turn out pretty ugly. 

I don't know how much experience you have with clears/lacquers etc., but what I do with pine is to sand it to either 150 or 220, depending on how dark the stain is going to be. The darker the stain, the lower the grit you should be sanding with (i.e. sanding with 220 closes the pores more than 150 so less stain will absorb). 

A 5% solids wash-coat should be sprayed on the pine. If you don't know about washcoats, you should have a look at this page for more info. 

Follow it up with a spray and wipe stain, or just a good wiping stain. Spraying it works better though IMO. Then, to get the desired colour (because a washcoat will make your stain come out lighter), add a bit of the stain to your clear coat, then spray a couple of light coats of toner (50/50 mix of clear + reducer), followed by a clear topcoat. 

This should give you a great looking stain job - just make sure to do a few samples first and have the HO sign off on them. 

Good luck! :thumbsup:

EDIT:

Here is a sample pine board I did using the system I described above - the depth is achieved using tone coats...


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

Sand out any fingerprints dirt etc. basically lightly sand everything. No need for expensive pre stain, brush on mineral spirits to get the same results. :thumbsup:


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

I'm sorry greg I just reread my last post and it's pretty vague. After sanding to remove fingerprints and such, which I would use no finer than 120 and I prefer 100, just use it lightly, dust, then apply the mineral spirits, which works just as well as pre stain. Let dry 15-20 minutes. You can start staining, penetrating stain would be best. Sashes tend to stain lighter than most trim, especialy after pre stain, if you wipe one, and it's light apply more stain and allow to tack, then take a second dry brush, and I mean out of the cover dry, use that brush and start brushing all over the sash and wiping the brush on a rag from time to time to get rid of excess, not only will this get rid of any runs, and excess stain, but you'll see it darkening and blending in to match what you need to, this can also be done on the extension jam and casing and I promise you it will blend together perfect. Let set over night and apply sanding sealer, once dry sand, dust and apply varnish. For an even smoother finish, once varnish is dry, use some pledge and steel wool to lightly buff. Good Luck!!


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

*".......use some pledge and steel wool to lightly buff. Good Luck!!"*

A painter purposely applying Pledge to a varnish job? That's sacrilege!


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

To each his own.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

JHill said:


> To each his own.


The next painter that varnishes or paints will thank you greatly! :no:


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

Anyone coming in to repaint or varnish, would be sanding off, any residual wax, or foreign material anyway. It's just on the surface. Anyway, not trying to argue, I just don't see the poblem, if it's going to get sanded off anyway, upon a repaint.


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## Greg Mrakich (Apr 19, 2010)

These are the windows that fold in for cleaning the outside glass ect....should I finish the sides that are 99.9999% of the time in the track? Or is that like painting the inside track of a double hung.....a no no?

Thanks...you are all great by the way:thumbup:


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## RPS (May 13, 2010)

I wouldnt do the sides. I always rub my trim or whatever with a deglosser just incase of any waxes used for cleaning. Like murphys oil soap or pledge. I also did the pledge trick now and then.:thumbup:


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## JHill (May 13, 2010)

I agree leave the sides alone :thumbsup:


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

No offense to anyone but over the years customers have asked me to do things that I'm not familiar with. I tell them...sorry, I don't do that. Do the paint job, but have them get someone who is expert in staining. Want to learn how? Do some in your own house. If you mess things up, it'll cost you. I only do what I do. It's served me well over time. Either way, good luck and I hope it works out. pd


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## Greg Mrakich (Apr 19, 2010)

painterdude said:


> No offense to anyone but over the years customers have asked me to do things that I'm not familiar with. I tell them...sorry, I don't do that. Do the paint job, but have them get someone who is expert in staining. Want to learn how? Do some in your own house. If you mess things up, it'll cost you. I only do what I do. It's served me well over time. Either way, good luck and I hope it works out. pd


I never said I don't or haven't done staining, just not a ton of it.:jester:


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## Greg Mrakich (Apr 19, 2010)

Windows are coming out great. Putting varnish on three of them today. Thanks for help and support. As I said, I have do tons of "repair" staining but never this much staining at one time. Its fun really...:thumbup:


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