# Help with stair gaps



## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Customer pulled carpet from stairs and refinished the hardwood flooring. They now want us to paint the risers and skirt boards. The skirt boards were notched around the stairs at some point leaving 1/4"-1/2" gaps. I think the smaller ones can be caulked but I'm looking for suggestions on the wider gaps. Backer rod just falls through. Any suggestions?


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Andyman said:


> Customer pulled carpet from stairs and refinished the hardwood flooring. They now want us to paint the risers and skirt boards. The skirt boards were notched around the stairs at some point leaving 1/4"-1/2" gaps. I think the smaller ones can be caulked but I'm looking for suggestions on the wider gaps. Backer rod just falls through. Any suggestions?
> View attachment 59641


Maybe a small cove moulding? Or for a really clean look...and a lot more work, fit a piece of birch doorskin to cover the riser and the gap.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Rope caulking may work. A wood bondo type would also work but extra work sanding.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

1/2" quarter round trim?


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## GR8painter (Dec 18, 2014)

Like the builders new carpet was going down, or just shabby skills.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Gough said:


> Maybe a small cove moulding? Or for a really clean look...and a lot more work, fit a piece of birch doorskin to cover the riser and the gap.



Doorskin? What's that


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/birch-plywood-door-skin.html


Andyman said:


> Doorskin? What's that


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

GR8painter said:


> Like the builders new carpet was going down, or just shabby skills.


Pretty much all homes I have been in if carpet is going down this is how they usually look. Once in a while the contractor will make sure it's a tight fit.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

cdpainting said:


> http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/birch-plywood-door-skin.html


Aw the colloquial names rear their ugly head once again. Most places i have lived in the country just call that veneer or door veneer. Do you have a dooryard at your house by chance?


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

We've had this before too, we just ripped some 1x's to fit over each riser. Like others said, some trim molding would probably be your quickest option. 

Good to hear from u Andy, hopefully you've got your stands out and ready!


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

cdpainting said:


> Pretty much all homes I have been in if carpet is going down this is how they usually look. Once in a while the contractor will make sure it's a tight fit.



Ya this was a discovery once the carpet was removed. Looked fine with carpet covering it but now they want the painter to "make it look good"


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

PACman said:


> Aw the colloquial names rear their ugly head once again. Most places i have lived in the country just call that veneer or door veneer. Do you have a dooryard at your house by chance?



Veneer 'round here too. I already suggested a thin board to cover the risers but they aren't excited about that option.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

MIZZOU said:


> We've had this before too, we just ripped some 1x's to fit over each riser. Like others said, some trim molding would probably be your quickest option.
> 
> Good to hear from u Andy, hopefully you've got your stands out and ready!



I'm thinking trim would work best but there are 37 steps so it's a little more than I care to tackle. 

I haven't even been to the farm yet. No stands, no cams. Way behind this year. We just got slammed with time sensitive jobs but soon as I get above water I'm making a day.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

While sanding and such we noticed there has been some mud skimmed in the corners. Would it be crazy to tape and skim?


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## Oden (Feb 8, 2012)

I think you squirt enuff caulk in there you will get it to take, you know, the first bead you don't even try and fill the gap. Just get it to stick to stay. Let it dry and build onto it. 

I don't think any kinda trim add on I'd like the look of a little bit. A good finish carpenter I think could cope something in there, but i know I couldn't to my satisfaction. A trim peice kinda add on-no way, gonna look gupsied. I wouldn't like it. I'd prefer the gap.


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

I would caulk it. Ive taken painters tape and stuck it on the step where I want a clean line. Especially when its a big crack. Build it up, run your finger over it, and pull the tape while its wet.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Andyman said:


> Doorskin? What's that


Typically 1/8" or less plywood faced with a veneer. They come sized to fit a 3-0 x 6-8 door. Birch, oak, and "lauan" are common face veneers.

Apparently, in some of the more isolated areas in the middle of the country, this may go by some unusual names....


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Gough said:


> Typically 1/8" or less plywood faced with a veneer. They come sized to fit a 3-0 x 6-8 door. Birch, oak, and "lauan" are common face veneers.
> 
> Apparently, in some of the more isolated areas in the middle of the country, this may go by some unusual names....


Well ya see is laak this. Us hill folk juss go cut us down a tree and cut off a piece o' wood an wittle it down flat laak a bored and glu it onna door wit a little spit.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

PACman said:


> Well ya see is laak this. Us hill folk juss go cut us down a tree and cut off a piece o' wood an wittle it down flat laak a bored and glu it onna door wit a little spit.


I know in southeast OH, ya hafta go down inter the holler to find a good tree. Them's my people.


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## DirtyPainter (Oct 18, 2013)

I ran into this about 2 months ago. What a labor intensive project, beige risers (wall color) and black tops. The amount of staple holes, gouges and gaps. Ugh. 

MH ready patch works great for getting a first layer of something in the crack before you caulk. It's pretty firm right out of the can, and doesn't seem to shrink much. 

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Gough said:


> I know in southeast OH, ya hafta go down inter the holler to find a good tree. Them's my people.


Down ta holler is the place to be.

Thas where all them good walnut and maple trees ar.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

DirtyPainter said:


> I ran into this about 2 months ago. What a labor intensive project, beige risers (wall color) and black tops. The amount of staple holes, gouges and gaps. Ugh.
> 
> MH ready patch works great for getting a first layer of something in the crack before you caulk. It's pretty firm right out of the can, and doesn't seem to shrink much.
> 
> ...


I was thinking that or Durhams rock hard putty would work. They have some body to them. And the Durham's can be mixed a little thicker if need be.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

PACman said:


> I was thinking that or Durhams rock hard putty would work. They have some body to them. And the Durham's can be mixed a little thicker if need be.


I'd be hesitant to use Durham's in a live joint like between the risers and skirtboard, I've seen it crack too many times.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Gough said:


> I'd be hesitant to use Durham's in a live joint like between the risers and skirtboard, I've seen it crack too many times.


That's true, but to use it as a backer for the caulk might work.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

PACman said:


> That's true, but to use it as a backer for the caulk might work.


Sorry, I hadn't read the previous post. Carry on.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

Paint it all black.....


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## Seth The Painter (Jun 24, 2015)

Cut shims. Hit them in. Fill it with Elmers wood filler. Then sand and paint.


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## Andyman (Feb 21, 2009)

Definitely is some play when the stair is stepped on so I will need some flex.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Andyman said:


> Customer pulled carpet from stairs and refinished the hardwood flooring. They now want us to paint the risers and skirt boards. The skirt boards were notched around the stairs at some point leaving 1/4"-1/2" gaps. I think the smaller ones can be caulked but I'm looking for suggestions on the wider gaps. Backer rod just falls through. Any suggestions?
> View attachment 59641


Try rolling paper up (or just tape if the paper is too thick) and shoving it in the gap as backer...


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Andyman said:


> While sanding and such we noticed there has been some mud skimmed in the corners. Would it be crazy to tape and skim?


It would probably crack anyway because of the movement... you might be able to get bondo (skimmed tight) to stick to 1 side as backer though...it needs to retain some sort of flex though.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Seth The Painter said:


> Cut shims. Hit them in. Fill it with Elmers wood filler. Then sand and paint.


Great idea!


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