# Painting a restaurant floor



## ImthePrez

We have a commerical account that has concrete floors in their restaurant. The floors have never been sealed and are a red color. You can see the middle of the aisle where people walk is worn down more then along the edges. So the owner wants them painted instead of stained to save some money. We have never painted a concrete floor and I was wondering what you guys suggest to use since it needs to be slip restistant?

I have all the equipment to prep and clean the floor (1200 PSI porty extractor, Turbo). I just need advice on what products will do the best job and also any suggestions on a sealer after?

Are these the correct steps...clean, seal, prime, paint, seal?


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## NCPaint1

What are they expecting? Paint or Epoxy? 2 completely different animals.


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## Schmidt & Co.

I would recommend going with a 100% solid epoxy floor coating like Benjamin Moore M40.......

As with any floor coating, prep is the key.


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## ImthePrez

Sorry for no clarifying...Im gonna use epoxy. I can put down degreaser, scrub then extract and the floor is as clean as it will get. A new coat of epoxy on this concrete floor and it will look new again.

I read to seal the floor before painting...this true?


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## Schmidt & Co.

As with any floor coating, each has its own "system" The Benjamin Moore 100% solids specificaly states in the TDS to remove any sealer already on the floor. 

I guess the system you recommend depends on the customers budget. 100% solids would be the "cadillac" job......


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## NCPaint1

Most solvent epoxies, including the P40 ( M40 is the old number Paul  ) require complete removal of the existing coating. Most Acrylic epoxies will tolerate an existing coating. Adding an "anti slip" aggregate IMO ruins the floor. They trap dirt, making the floor look as though its not clean. The owner would be better off using "runner" type rugs on high traffic areas ( maybe even some with his logo or company name on them ) instead of adding an aggregate.

Now, if he wants cheap, but still decent, Acrylic epoxy is the way to go. Clean, no sealer, and minimum 2 coats.


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## ImthePrez

Thanks for the help guys! Ill look into acrylic epoxy and talk with the customer. Would a roller be the best option to put it down with?


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## NCPaint1

ImthePrez said:


> Thanks for the help guys! Ill look into acrylic epoxy and talk with the customer. Would a roller be the best option to put it down with?


 :yes: 1/4" or 3/8" would be the best


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## user7598

NCPaint1 said:


> :yes: 1/4" or 3/8" would be the best


Not saying those naps aren't a good thickness for putting it down but I used a 1/2" x 18" roller to put down the epoxy on a concrete floor in a restaurant a few years back. The floor was about 150' X 20'. working a 20' floor left to right while backing up took some time, so I had to move fast to avoid the lap marks from showing. It was hot as hell and the first coat was lapping up so I had to change my game plan. I stepped up from a 1/4" to a 1/2", and from a 9" to an 18" cover. No dip and roll, I had my helper pour the epoxy directly on the floor from a 5 gallon bucket working right along with me. One man pours and the other rolls it out. Pour man doubles as the cut man for down the sides of the floor if he can hustle! The 1/2" helped me out because the concrete I was working with wasn't very flat and the 1/4" was leaving me skippers all over the place.


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## NCPaint1

d5moody said:


> Not saying those naps aren't a good thickness for putting it down but I used a 1/2" x 18" roller to put down the epoxy on a concrete floor in a restaurant a few years back. The floor was about 150' X 20'. working a 20' floor left to right while backing up took some time, so I had to move fast to avoid the lap marks from showing. It was hot as hell and the first coat was lapping up so I had to change my game plan. I stepped up from a 1/4" to a 1/2", and from a 9" to an 18" cover. No dip and roll, I had my helper pour the epoxy directly on the floor from a 5 gallon bucket working right along with me. One man pours and the other rolls it out. Pour man doubles as the cut man for down the sides of the floor if he can hustle! The 1/2" helped me out because the concrete I was working with wasn't very flat and the 1/4" was leaving me skippers all over the place.


Absolutely right, but it depends on the coating you're working with too. Most 100% solids Epoxies have a short pot life. Typically 15 minutes or less. Those coatings are applied like you said, pouring directly on the floor, then using a squeegee to move it around as it self levels.

Acrylic epoxies for the most part, have a longer pot life, usually around 8 hours. More than enough time to cut, and roll. You "could" pour it directly on the floor, but the products im familiar with dont recommend this type of application method. Some others may, check what the specs say. :thumbsup:


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## NACE

May I suggest the P42 waterborne polyamide epoxy instead. Long pot life and a stinger more chemical resistant film than a standard acrylic epoxy.


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