# Pro Classic and Spraying Trim



## WestKyPainter (Nov 7, 2018)

I'm a 20 year pro but even I seem to struggle from time to time with spraying Pro Classic. I'm currently doing a pretty big new construction house that I've already blew through 15 gallons of trim paint and will easily go through 5 more. 

I've noticed this stuff tends to run from time to time. It'll form big tear drop type of runs. I simply take a quality pin roller and that usually takes care of these. It's frustrating, I'm a long time pro and have sprayed thousands of gallons in my day. I don't even cut this stuff when spraying, straight out of the can it goes!

I consider myself an above average spray man. What gives? Do you people ever have problems with PC trim paint? I typically put my Graco 395 on about 3/4 pressure for interior trim paints.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I know about how ProClassic can run. I haven't sprayed nearly what you've gone through in your time, but I do quick, thin passes with a fine finish low pressure tip, and treat the first coat as a tack coat. The second coat I get on thicker, but not a lot thicker. Seems to eliminate all but a few runs. I use a little Graco 390 with just enough pressure to get rid of tails.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I had good luck last time I sprayed advance, by using a 209 (I usually use a 410 or 411 for doors) and I also dropped some bucks on a dehumidifier. That thing makes stuff dry quick...


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

I have this issue too, and I prefer to brush trim work! Was surprised how viscous it was when I first started. 

If I have enough lead time after calling it in I’ve been known to open um up n let it sit (w/ random mixing) to firm up slightly...Its prolly a big no-no for the film integrity but I preferred a firmer coating for the brush. Will have to try woodco advice with the dehumidifier!


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## WestKyPainter (Nov 7, 2018)

Thanks for the tips...I try to learn something new every day if possible. I generally use a 210 tip for most of my trim jobs. I just figured since I'm spraying straight out of the can that it wouldn't run. 

I wonder if the pro classic hybrid is a better choice for spraying applications?


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## hammerhead (Feb 18, 2014)

like said before get a lpff tip


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

WestKyPainter said:


> Thanks for the tips...I try to learn something new every day if possible. I generally use a 210 tip for most of my trim jobs. I just figured since I'm spraying straight out of the can that it wouldn't run.
> 
> I wonder if the pro classic hybrid is a better choice for spraying applications?


If you're shooting straight PC with a 210 and it's running then you're probably moving too slow or just putting it on too heavy. Pick up the pace, get an even tack coat on it and leave it alone. Your technique may also need to be adjusted....its panels and corners that can be the culprits but PC is generally not a hard product to shoot. Just dont overload it. Nice, even, thin build. 
I'm wondering if you're laying it on too thick trying to build with the wrong size tip.? Making a pass as a fog coat then doubling back to even it out because the film is too thin and the passes have too much overlap cuz it only 4 inches.... not sure. I like a 3 or 4 12 with PC. And move at a pretty quick pace. A 12 will give me something to work with and forces a faster pace.

Ps. Fyi, scuff x is wayyyy better than PC will ever be. give it a go and you'll never look back.lol

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## WestKyPainter (Nov 7, 2018)

I think you're right, I'm probably moving too slow. A lot of the trim turned out great, it was just a few areas that sagged or had runs. I also am notorious for trying to build the coating up which leads to runs!! 

I'll have to look into Scuff X, have no idea what it is.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

I completely agree with the fflp tips. I use 310 for doors and it works great. As far as spraying pro classic. I had a nightmare of a job that I spayed solid pine louvered doors36". I did the second coat too soon probably about two hours. It re wet the first coat and ran like crazy. If your using sw try to spray the pre cat epoxy. It sets up much faster, is more durable, and more user friendly. My price is cheaper than pc anyway


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Your concerns are quite valid. What I have discovered myself over the many years of spray-painting is there's always going to be issues with Sherwin-Williams products. I took the time to track 1 years progress on every job that I did regardless of the paint products we used. What I discovered over that 1 years. And logging everything down was that rarely was there an issue when we used high-grade Benjamin Moore paint products. What I also discovered was that there always seem to be issues when using Sherwin-Williams paint products regardless of the grade that we used. therefore we make it a point to try and never use a Sherwin-Williams product when we know there was always a substitute that will work better in Benjamin Moore paint. When it's all said and done if a contractor does not have to go back because of issues he can make more money on a monthly and yearly average. In my opinion Benjamin Moore products are just a better less hassle higher-quality products.


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

Another issue to consider is sometimes the tips. We have discovered that TRI-TECH fine finish tips have a much better grade of carbide therefore giving a much better finish then either Titan or Graco tips.
Independent studies have shown that the hardness of the carbide in a tri tech tip is much harder and stronger than both the Graco and the Titan tips. Try a Trip Tech tip in either a 212 or a maximum of 310 for all trim work inside a house


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## The Montana Painter (Dec 2, 2018)

A couple things that helps me with PC are #1 heat( make sure you are warm ) #2 pre vacuum floors so you can position a fan with a milkhouse heater in back of it to speed up drying #3 use a fflp tip and practice your technique...know where your overlaps are so you can minimize them. Just some things I have tried with some success. When I spray PC I strip to underwear and slip into my spray suit. If I'm not sweating bullets while spraying then it's not warm enough. Also another note is pressure on your airless...least possible pressure while not fingering. I run @900 psi with a fflp 2-08 with my airlessco lp 600... I might try scuff x on my next project


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

The Montana Painter said:


> A couple things that helps me with PC are #1 heat( make sure you are warm ) #2 pre vacuum floors so you can position a fan with a milkhouse heater in back of it to speed up drying #3 use a fflp tip and practice your technique...know where your overlaps are so you can minimize them. Just some things I have tried with some success. When I spray PC I strip to underwear and slip into my spray suit. If I'm not sweating bullets while spraying then it's not warm enough. Also another note is pressure on your airless...least possible pressure while not fingering. I run @900 psi with a fflp 2-08 with my airlessco lp 600... I might try scuff x on my next project


Yes. Try scuffx. You have wayyyy too many rules for a trim paint. 

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## WestKyPainter (Nov 7, 2018)

The Montana Painter said:


> A couple things that helps me with PC are #1 heat( make sure you are warm ) #2 pre vacuum floors so you can position a fan with a milkhouse heater in back of it to speed up drying #3 use a fflp tip and practice your technique...know where your overlaps are so you can minimize them. Just some things I have tried with some success. When I spray PC I strip to underwear and slip into my spray suit. If I'm not sweating bullets while spraying then it's not warm enough. Also another note is pressure on your airless...least possible pressure while not fingering. I run @900 psi with a fflp 2-08 with my airlessco lp 600... I might try scuff x on my next project


It shouldn't come to this. They should be able to make a quality trim paint with excellent spray ability. 

Years ago Porter Paint made an excellent product called Acrylic Eggshell Semigloss trim paint. It was confusing because it had Eggshell in the label, but make no mistake, it was a semigloss finish. This product was probably the best interior trim paint I've used. It sprayed out beautifully, and it brushed out gorgeous, too. Of course Porter quit making it, go figure!!

Anyone remember that stuff?? My good friend used it for 10 years and builders LOVED his work.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Zoomer said:


> Another issue to consider is sometimes the tips. We have discovered that TRI-TECH fine finish tips have a much better grade of carbide therefore giving a much better finish then either Titan or Graco tips.
> Independent studies have shown that the hardness of the carbide in a tri tech tip is much harder and stronger than both the Graco and the Titan tips. Try a Trip Tech tip in either a 212 or a maximum of 310 for all trim work inside a house



I am interested to read these case studies you mention. Could you post a link?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

lilpaintchic said:


> Yes. Try scuffx. You have wayyyy too many rules for a trim paint.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk



Have you tried the SK5000 alkyd/acrylic?


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Have you tried the SK5000 alkyd/acrylic?


Nope

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## The Montana Painter (Dec 2, 2018)

Well I tried some BMW scuf x on some deep maroon paneling and trim in our rental. With good technique you can cover with 2 brush coats( added 1oz wt to formula- oc-120) ....Really like the feel(eggshell) and appearance. Will update with some tests later. Also there is a faster drying hyped Ben Moore product( contractor line?) Advance...anyone heard of it? Local store has some but can't remember name....


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## craftednorth (Dec 29, 2018)

*Pro Classic*

So we just sprayed some cabinet drawer fronts and doors and we definitely had some sags that we ended up wetsanding, the second coat we actually rolled them out when they were wet which helped a lot. Im just wondering if any knows about the tackiness of this stuff. I just installed the cabinets a week after we painted and they feel like we could almost put a finger print in them still. I was tlaking to another guy about this and he said hes always had some issues with latex like that. Like a month after painting a door he had it resting up against a cabinet and it still stuck to the face frames. Also when handling them i felt like it got dirty quite easy, I will say that it cleaned up well with a magic eraser. Also was on a job where they used the BM Advanced and it felt like glass and i believe it was a satin as was my cabinet.


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## The Montana Painter (Dec 2, 2018)

craftednorth said:


> So we just sprayed some cabinet drawer fronts and doors and we definitely had some sags that we ended up wetsanding, the second coat we actually rolled them out when they were wet which helped a lot. Im just wondering if any knows about the tackiness of this stuff. I just installed the cabinets a week after we painted and they feel like we could almost put a finger print in them still. I was tlaking to another guy about this and he said hes always had some issues with latex like that. Like a month after painting a door he had it resting up against a cabinet and it still stuck to the face frames. Also when handling them i felt like it got dirty quite easy, I will say that it cleaned up well with a magic eraser. Also was on a job where they used the BM Advanced and it felt like glass and i believe it was a satin as was my cabinet.





Can't say i have had that problem with either product when installed. Have had a few doors stick so i always separate with white rags when stacked and use cabinet bumpers where applicable. Both products should be great when cured.


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