# Doors - what's your sequence ?



## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

This is for the door brushers, spraying don't count  :whistling2:

I don't recall exchanging different opinions of this. Figure it could serve as a good bone to gnaw on. 

What sequence do you paint the elements of a six panel door (or Christian door as I was brought up to call 'em) ?

Here's a picture with the different elements numbered:









(as you can see, the numbering is only based on position, not necessarily a preferred order)


and if you really want to discuss the order in which the sections of each panel is done, have at it.


Also, does your sequence change whether you are painting a fast dry waterborne vs a slooooowww dry oil?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

daArch said:


> This is for the door brushers, spraying don't count  :whistling2:
> 
> I don't recall exchanging different opinions of this. Figure it could serve as a good bone to gnaw on.
> 
> ...


This is going to lead to another one of those paint brand that shall remain un-named threads i bet.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Anyhow, i would tell my customers to do the grouping of 4,6,8,10,12,14 first in any order of their choosing (although that exact order would be best to avoid rubbing your unit in wet paint.). Then i would go 5,9,13, in that order. Then 2,7,11,15 and finally 1 and 3. letting each group dry if possible before going to the next would be a good idea though.

But of course, start with a paint brand that isn't draggy as crap when you brush it.

And brush the cut in sections of the panels first then the flats second.

What do i win?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Also, the diagram you have posted has clues as to the correct order if you look at the depiction of the door itself. You will have a hard edge somewhere no matter what you do short of spraying it, so using the edges of the wood itself is a good guide to use in regards to which order to paint it. Also, your eye is naturally attracted to the vertical running wood of the sides, so it is best to make sure there are no lap marks on them from painting any horizontal areas.


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

4-6-5-2-7-8-10-9-11-12-14-13-15-1-3.
I bet Pac Man's right. 15 painters probably have 15 ways to do it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

The Cutting Edge said:


> 4-6-5-2-7-8-10-9-11-12-14-13-15-1-3.
> I bet Pac Man's right. 15 painters probably have 15 ways to do it.


NO, 15 painters will have *20* ways of doing it. :thumbup:

BTW, my preference closely resembles yours, I'll give my answer later (as if I could influence anyone :no: :no: )

And @PACman, the hard edges anywhere can be avoided by feathering out any over lapping onto an adjoining element - feathering with the grain of the unpainted element. With the old oils that wasn't as important because a wet edge was maintained at all joints til you wuz done.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

daArch said:


> NO, 15 painters will have *20* ways of doing it. :thumbup:
> 
> BTW, my preference closely resembles yours, I'll give my answer later (as if I could influence anyone :no: :no: )
> 
> And @PACman, the hard edges anywhere can be avoided by feathering out any over lapping onto an adjoining element - feathering with the grain of the unpainted element. With the old oils that wasn't as important because a wet edge was maintained at all joints til you wuz done.


So we are shooting for a furniture grade finish then. Damn you are old school. What i have been taught, and keep in mind that my career has been during the demise of the old oils, is that it is easier to keep the hard edge and "hide" it from the eye by doing the short vertical runs, then the horizontal runs while overlapping the short verts, and then finishing with the longest vertical runs along the sides, again overlapping the ends of the horizontal runs. the trick is to stop good and straight at the ends of the short vertical and horizontal runs so you don't get much of a lip when you paint perpendicular to them. Also, i understand that there is a Fine paints of Europe line that has a very extended open time specifically for the purpose of painting doors.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Shouldn't this be an addendum to the "19 doors and counting, Behr covers thread", because if he tried to feather the Marquee he would still be counting? And he would still be on door number four?


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

PACman said:


> Shouldn't this be an addendum to the "19 doors and counting, Behr covers thread", because if he tried to feather the Marquee he would still be counting? And he would still be on door number four?


Pretty sure if was in the Behr thread it would be 
1-4-7-9-11-14-3 then
3-6-7-9-11-12-1
Then fill in what's left. 
Kind of like this
X

Well breaks over.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Panels, short verticals, rails, stiles.

EDIT: I missed your final question, Arch. Yes, for quick-dry products, I follow the pattern I posted and I don't feather. With really slow drying material, I just work top to bottom.


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## johnnyb (Jul 16, 2015)

This a cool thread here, can't wait to see the responses

If I'm doing a fast dry, just like the cutting edge:
4, 6, 5, 2, 7, 8, 10, 9, 11, 12, 14, 13, 15, 1, 3 - Keeping 1 & 3 feathered.

With slower drying paint, sometimes I'm able to leave the horizontals second to last, and finish with 1 & 3.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

Please post a video using a waterborne that actually works by brushing of that door I'm all eyes!! They all suck to brush !!!


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

What about door knob removal? You missed that very important or unimportant step. Until you fix the diagram I'm not telling. :whistling2:


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I'm only going to brush the recessed portions. Then I'm going to whizz roll that door (you did not specifically disqualify the use of rollers!).

4 6 8 10 12 14 (only recessed parts of panels will get the brush treatment)
4 6 5 8 10 9 12 14 13
2 7 11 15
1 3

No brush marks, no hard edges.


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## Seth The Painter (Jun 24, 2015)

If I'm using a fast drying paint like aura or muralo or any oil, I paint the recessed part of the door everywhere first wiping the edges clean with a rag with water or mineral spirits. If there are several doors which there usually are I'll cut them all in the recessed areas and the sides wiping clean and theb go back after and roll all of them with a foam roller.


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## Seth The Painter (Jun 24, 2015)

But now that marquee is out I just throw it on the door with an 18 in roller :sly:


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

I prefer to do the deepest recessed areas of whatever I am painting first. Then hit the face areas. No particular order. Just whatever seems to work best with the paint I am using and how it lays out.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I do the raised panels last. Usually I use a mini to roll and tip, so as I'm rolling the outer panels I go into the recessed edge as well. Usually something like this:
13-11-9-7-5
15-1-2-3
4-6-8-10-12-14


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

SemiproJohn said:


> I'm only going to brush the recessed portions. Then I'm going to whizz roll that door (you did not specifically disqualify the use of rollers!).
> 
> 4 6 8 10 12 14 (only recessed parts of panels will get the brush treatment)
> 4 6 5 8 10 9 12 14 13
> ...



John, I'm trying to convince myself to adopt a similar method for doors. Had 5 doors to do last weekend, I rolled/brushed 4 of them in a traditional style like this;

4,6,8,10,12,14 first, rolling and back brushing the panels only. I don't try to cut in the panels, but rather wipe off any paint outside of the panels with a damp rag. 

Then 5,7,and 9 get done together, roll and back brush. Vertical stroke through 5 and 9, then a horizontal stroke across 7. Any overlap into 1,2,3 or 11 gets a quick feather in the direction of the grain. 

From there it depends on how the material is acting at that certain time in the present conditions. Sometimes I'll do 11,13,15 in the same manner as above, then finish out 2,1,3. 

If it's cool morning, or damp conditions, I might go to 2 after 5,7,9 then bring 1 and 3 half way down. Roll and stroke out 11,13,15 real quick then finish out 15,1,3. Just to reduce bending over/standing up. 

The fifth door Going into the basement I rolled completely with a closed end microfiber. Not cutting in and rolling the recesses (6 panel metal doors) but using the closed end of the microfiber to paint the recesses. 

The inside of the door I rolled with a 3/8 Purdy micro mini (4"). The outside I rolled/brushed the first coat as outlined above, then rolled the second with a smaller nap whizz microfiber nap that I can't remember the name of right now. It's the same nap RepaintFlorida said his guys used for breakthrough. 

Both sides looked fine. Solid, no flashing. I guess I have a prejudice against stipple on a door. I'm trying to get over it as rolling doors is the ticket, especially with the closed end rollers. One thing I've never really liked about cutting in the recesses and rolling doors is the textural difference between the two tools. That's why I usually back brush doors. 

Lately I've rolled some things with Breakthrough and those Whizz micros that have turned out exceptionally smooth. I'm hoping I can get the hang of doing that with thicker acrylics. This last set of doors I did with Resilience. 

I want to feel confident in rolling doors, it would save a ton of time/effort and potentially could look better I think. 

Anybody got a link to Ole's super fast door brushing vid? Come on Ole, if you see this post it again. It seems appropriate for this thread.


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## Seth The Painter (Jun 24, 2015)

thinkpainting/nick said:


> Please post a video using a waterborne that actually works by brushing of that door I'm all eyes!! They all suck to brush !!!


It's true brushing can be done but you gotta work fast. I'll post a video to tomorrow.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Gwarel said:


> I do the raised panels last. Usually I use a mini to roll and tip, so as I'm rolling the outer panels I go into the recessed edge as well. Usually something like this:
> 
> 13-11-9-7-5
> 
> ...




I gotta give you credit man, a long time ago we were talking about cutting in ceilings and you gave me the closed end mini roller idea. That really expanded my thinking on what minis could do. Rolling the recesses of door panels is one example.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Jmayspaint said:


> John, I'm trying to convince myself to adopt a similar method for doors. Had 5 doors to do last weekend, I rolled/brushed 4 of them in a traditional style like this;
> 
> 4,6,8,10,12,14 first, rolling and back brushing the panels only. I don't try to cut in the panels, but rather wipe off any paint outside of the panels with a damp rag.
> 
> ...


Josh,

I'm sure you have painted many more of these doors than I have, but I have painted a bunch of them. Due to their tedious nature, I have experimented with various patterns, roller naps/brands, different sized brushes, etc. I always get pissed if I can see any texture difference where brush and roller meet, or where, if I only brush, any horizontal brush marks "cross over" the seams separating horizontal and vertical sections, and visa versa. . I think it's too easy to not stick with a pattern and get caught up with chasing any paint that gets onto a section I wasn't intending to paint yet. That just seems inefficient. 

I agree that wiping off any "rogue" paint is a good idea. However, I'm hell bent on not having to do that. I lean on the use of mini rollers to eliminate brush marks and enhance uniformity of application of paint. And, yep, the type of product affects application technique. I'm still trying to master ProClassic.

The pattern I suggested seems to work best for me. I also have used a mini roller with a closed end and have painted many recessed doors without a brush. Sometimes I have to catch a drip or two from under the recessed corners, or work the paint in the recessed area a bit with a brush. I found that a 1/2'' nap works best for getting paint into those recessed areas, and working as fast as possible, and not overworking the paint, usually produces results more uniform than the brush/roller combo allows. I think my pattern and a no-nonsense pace usually works with the open time of most of the paint I have used.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Yah. I like the idea of weenie rollers, totally forgot about that. I had a feeling someone would add a head slap obvious approach. 

I would choose to back brush. Some kind of an extender would be preferred also.

My old sequence with slow oils was like Gough's. Panels, short verts, rails, then stiles. Top to bottom.

Now with the fast drys, it's 4, 6, 5, 2, 8, 10, 9, 7, 12, 14, 13, 11, 15, 1, 3. All slop overs are feathered. 

And if you want to know, panels are done sides first, top and bottom next, then raised flats. 


AND YES, hardware removed, DUH ! ! ! !

When working with any number of my past partners we would study these types of techniques until we figured out which was generally the best. The sequences of windows kept us busy for months


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Gwarel said:


> I do the raised panels last. Usually I use a mini to roll and tip, so as I'm rolling the outer panels I go into the recessed edge as well. Usually something like this:
> 13-11-9-7-5
> 15-1-2-3
> 4-6-8-10-12-14


Your pattern makes sense. It's very different from the one I use, but I'm going to have to try it.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

SemiproJohn said:


> Your pattern makes sense. It's very different from the one I use, but I'm going to have to try it.



It does make sense. The outer panels are the most visible. Why deal with overlap onto them rather than vice versa? Make the potential lap inside the recesses of the panel rather than out on the face of the door. I've never tried panels last I don't think, going to have to give it a shot.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I wish this forum had more meat & potatoes content like this thread. Good stuff here guys. Love it. Thanks Bill for the post!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I wish this forum had more meat & potatoes content like this thread. Good stuff here guys. Love it. Thanks Bill for the post!


In the past, a thread like this would have been "land blasted" as being too noobish, elementary, not business esoteric enough. 

I guess that's why some of the prima donnas have ridden off to the ivory towers on their high horses.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

daArch said:


> In the past, a thread like this would have been "land blasted" as being too noobish, elementary, not business esoteric enough.
> 
> I guess that's why some of the prima donnas have ridden off to the ivory towers on their high horses.


As long as we can avoid cliches like the plague....


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I wish this forum had more meat & potatoes content like this thread. Good stuff here guys. Love it. Thanks Bill for the post!


I 2nd that. This was a good one.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Seth The Painter said:


> It's true brushing can be done but you gotta work fast. I'll post a video to tomorrow.



They certainly can be brushed, or rolled and back brushed, but I'm starting to wonder if the traditional methods for brushing panel doors isn't becoming antiquated with modern acrylics. 

As much as my painters eye likes the look of a well done brushed door with straight brush strokes all going in the right direction, the nature of the newer paints is making that less and less practical. And I doubt that most people really care whether a door has stipple or brush strokes as long as the film is consistent. 

As I've evolved in the trade over the past few years in finding less and less use for the brush in general. Mini rollers are taking its place on many things, doors being one thing I've held on to the brush for. Starting to think I'm doing that more for my own satisfaction and sense of "professionalism" rather than any real benefit to the overall finished product. Metal, and composite panel doors can be rolled so much easier and faster. I just have to convince myself that it's OK to do that.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

The Cutting Edge said:


> Pretty sure if was in the Behr thread it would be
> 1-4-7-9-11-14-3 then
> 3-6-7-9-11-12-1
> Then fill in what's left.
> ...


Don't forget the dancing! Can't forget to dance Swan Lake!


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I know how uncle Sherwin does it. That's all I need to know.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

daArch said:


> In the past, a thread like this would have been "land blasted" as being too noobish, elementary, not business esoteric enough.
> 
> I guess that's why some of the prima donnas have ridden off to the ivory towers on their high horses.


I would agree about it being a pretty simple set of skills a pro should already have, but with the ever-changing reformulations of products, even old dogs have to learn new tricks.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I would agree about it being a pretty simple set of skills a pro should already have, but with the ever-changing reformulations of products, even old dogs have to learn new tricks.


While keeping a wet edge is important, us old dogs have to factor in how many times we have to go to our knees and get up again.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

slinger58 said:


> While keeping a wet edge is important, us old dogs have to factor in how many times we have to go to our knees and get up again.


Believe me, no more than a paperhanger has to. If we all don't start wearing knee pads in our 20's, we b crippled in our 50's / 60's

I am suffering proof

I started this thread 'cause I just repainted the exterior of our front door. It didn't take me long to weigh the advantages of taking it off the hinges and laying it on a pair of saw horses.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Jmayspaint said:


> They certainly can be brushed, or rolled and back brushed, but I'm starting to wonder if the traditional methods for brushing panel doors isn't becoming antiquated with modern acrylics.
> 
> As much as my painters eye likes the look of a well done brushed door with straight brush strokes all going in the right direction, the nature of the newer paints is making that less and less practical. And I doubt that most people really care whether a door has stipple or brush strokes as long as the film is consistent.
> 
> As I've evolved in the trade over the past few years in finding less and less use for the brush in general. Mini rollers are taking its place on many things, doors being one thing I've held on to the brush for. Starting to think I'm doing that more for my own satisfaction and sense of "professionalism" rather than any real benefit to the overall finished product. Metal, and composite panel doors can be rolled so much easier and faster. I just have to convince myself that it's OK to do that.


I've seen many folks who even with sprayed doors like them back brushed with the grain. It's definitely a personal preference that will bite us in the ass if we assume.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

If I'm brushing with a fairly quick drying paint, I follow the animated example.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

daArch said:


> Believe me, no more than a paperhanger has to. If we all don't start wearing knee pads in our 20's, we b crippled in our 50's / 60's
> 
> I am suffering proof
> 
> I started this thread 'cause I just repainted the exterior of our front door. It didn't take me long to weigh the advantages of taking it off the hinges and laying it on a pair of saw horses.


But when you take it off the hinges, you have to decide which way the slotted screw heads are supposed to be when you put it back up. Unless of course you have phillips head screws. Then you have to decide whether they are supposed to all be crosses or x's.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

slinger58 said:


> While keeping a wet edge is important, us old dogs have to factor in how many times we have to go to our knees and get up again.


Who says we're painting the door while it's upright???


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Seth The Painter said:


> But now that marquee is out I just throw it on the door with an 18 in roller :sly:


now why would you waste a good roller. Just open the can! It will paint itself!


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

If I can spray a door I will every time if not I'm brushing the whole thing. I can't stand to see any kind of stipple or texture on a fresh painted door. That's just me.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> The outer panels are the most visible. Why deal with overlap onto them rather than vice versa? Make the potential lap inside the recesses of the panel rather than out on the face of the door.


Eliminating lap marks is the main objective, and of course speed goes hand in hand with that. That is also why I like to work from the bottom up, less likely to see the lap mark at the bottom of the door.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

PACman said:


> Anyhow, i would tell my customers to do the grouping of 4,6,8,10,12,14 first in any order of their choosing (although that exact order would be best to avoid rubbing your unit in wet paint.). Then i would go 5,9,13, in that order. Then 2,7,11,15 and finally 1 and 3. letting each group dry if possible before going to the next would be a good idea though.
> 
> But of course, start with a paint brand that isn't draggy as crap when you brush it.
> 
> ...





The Cutting Edge said:


> 4-6-5-2-7-8-10-9-11-12-14-13-15-1-3.
> I bet Pac Man's right. 15 painters probably have 15 ways to do it.


I agree with this order too. Starting at top or bottom depends on if I'm sitting or standing when I go to start it.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

ProWallGuy said:


> I agree with this order too. Starting at top or bottom depends on if I'm sitting or standing when I go to start it.


Trying to puzzle that part out. Does that mean you're scooting or crawling over to every other door? Walking to the next one after you've finished one at the top? 

Help me out here, PWG. :blink:


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Gwarel said:


> Eliminating lap marks is the main objective, and of course speed goes hand in hand with that. .




That it does. I came up with a couple old timers that learned to paint with oil. Those guys hated even the vinyl acrylics of 10 years ago and complained regularly about the lack of open time. Some days I yearn for that extra minute or two that we had with the last generation acrylics. I never painted that much with oil finish paints, and strongly dislike solvent fumes, so I don't miss it at all

Hand painting a door with something like Aura or Breakthrough has such a small margin of error that I feel like it's made me a better (faster) painter just having to learn to use them. 

Most of you probably already know this trick, but one way to increase open time on a door (as long as it's not raw wood) is to wipe it with a slightly damp rag right before coating. You don't want to get it too wet, just barely dampen the surface. One of the old codgers (term of endearment) I mentioned previously showed me that trick, and it does help.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Gough said:


> Who says we're painting the door while it's upright???


or, more importantly, while WE are upright.  :surprise: :vs_shocked: :vs_OMG:


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

PACman said:


> But when you take it off the hinges, you have to decide which way the slotted screw heads are supposed to be when you put it back up. Unless of course you have phillips head screws. Then you have to decide whether they are supposed to all be crosses or x's.


Does it make me a hack to remove the door by tapping out the pins?

What if I pop the pins, but after painting and rehanging, I bring the screw heads into alignment, thereby correcting the last guys oversight.

Free pass then?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I paint paint said:


> Does it make me a hack to remove the door by tapping out the pins?
> 
> What if I pop the pins, but after painting and rehanging, I bring the screw heads into alignment, thereby correcting the last guys oversight.
> 
> Free pass then?



Naw, your a hack for not painting Under the hinges :jester:


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Jmayspaint said:


> Naw, your a hack for not painting Under the hinges :jester:


I've taken to not painting under the hinges. I want the same hinge to go back from where I removed it and want that door to hang exactly like it did before I removed it. Don't ask me how I know that being meticulous is not a waste of time. Painter's tape on hinges which are marked top, middle, low, screws put in the same bags as the hinges from which they were removed, door knobs and strikes put in marked bags, tops of doors labeled with tape, etc.

Nothing is more aggravating to me than having to tweak a door to hang/close properly because I just hastily removed everything from multiple doors and got everything mixed up when putting things back. Lots of hinges have been "racked" from slamming/poor installation from previous people, so I now make sure they go back in their original locations.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Jmayspaint said:


> Naw, your a hack for not painting Under the hinges :jester:


I was just about to admit to refinishing a deck last week where I didn't stain all six sides of every board…


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> I've taken to not painting under the hinges. I want the same hinge to go back from where I removed it and want that door to hang exactly like it did before I removed it. Don't ask me how I know that being meticulous is not a waste of time. Painter's tape on hinges which are marked top, middle, low, screws put in the same bags as the hinges from which they were removed, door knobs and strikes put in marked bags, tops of doors labeled with tape, etc.
> 
> Nothing is more aggravating to me than having to tweak a door to hang/close properly because I just hastily removed everything from multiple doors and got everything mixed up when putting things back. Lots of hinges have been "racked" from slamming/poor installation from previous people, so I now make sure they go back in their original locations.



Really? Even if they're all the same kind of hinges? I could see if you had mismatched hardware, or if you're doing cabinet doors, but if every hinge is the same, they all go in one big bag. If you have a bent one, just back the screws out on the door & jam an eighth-inch, push the hinge into the mortise, then tighten. It'll straighten right up.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

if hinges are installed correctly, there should be no chance of replacing them if there is now a coat or two of paint in the mortise.

Also, after a few times of removing and replacing the screws, they ain't as tight.

After a couple of years in the trade, one can learn how to cut in around a hinge.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

ProWallGuy said:


> I agree with this order too. Starting at top or bottom depends on if I'm sitting or standing when I go to start it.


I start at the top so my weewee doesn't get in the wet paint when i reach to the top of the door. Oh, are we painting with clothes on?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

daArch said:


> .....After a couple of years in the trade, one can learn how to cut in around a hinge.




Or a door knob


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Really? Even if they're all the same kind of hinges? I could see if you had mismatched hardware, or if you're doing cabinet doors, but if every hinge is the same, they all go in one big bag. If you have a bent one, just back the screws out on the door & jam an eighth-inch, push the hinge into the mortise, then tighten. It'll straighten right up.


I think it's more an issue with older homes, where things are worn, or have been tweaked over the years. We've have fewer problems with new work and mass-produced pre-hung doors.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

slinger58 said:


> Trying to puzzle that part out. Does that mean you're scooting or crawling over to every other door? Walking to the next one after you've finished one at the top?
> 
> Help me out here, PWG. :blink:


If I finished the last door at the bottom, I move to the next one and start at the bottom and work my way to the top, then move to the top of the next one, work my way to the bottom, and so on.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

ProWallGuy said:


> If I finished the last door at the bottom, I move to the next one and start at the bottom and work my way to the top, then move to the top of the next one, work my way to the bottom, and so on.


That's what I figured. Saves on those "up & downs".


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## Zoomer (Dec 17, 2011)

PACman said:


> Anyhow, i would tell my customers to do the grouping of 4,6,8,10,12,14 first in any order of their choosing (although that exact order would be best to avoid rubbing your unit in wet paint.). Then i would go 5,9,13, in that order. Then 2,7,11,15 and finally 1 and 3. letting each group dry if possible before going to the next would be a good idea though.
> 
> But of course, start with a paint brand that isn't draggy as crap when you brush it.
> 
> ...


This is the order that has been taught for hundreds of years.
It works for all paints if done properly.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Zoomer said:


> This is the order that has been taught for hundreds of years.
> It works for all paints if done properly.


many painters will do variations of this as they become more experienced doing doors to suit their preferences, buy to novices this is what i recommend as a starting point. If you do it this way, a novice is less likely to screw it up.


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## SunHouseProperties (Feb 19, 2015)

A couple cents,, ,, Start at the TOP work down fast (just getting the paint on the surface) and not worried about drips,, come back up and back brush to pick up the drips and working feather strokes from edge to edge and the pocket corners especially. TOP to BOTTOM. Final check for drip while I prepare for next door.... AH there is one" light touch LIGHT touch sometimes means a complete stroke edge to edge again... anyway doors done. ( this is a brush only ) NOW of coarse if the door could come off and lay flat then the finish will be more OH so good!! shh tape up and spray it @#$


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Hey guys,theres this new invention out,it's called an airless.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

propainterJ said:


> Hey guys,theres this new invention out,it's called an airless.


apologies for not making the first sentence in the OP more noticeable:

*"This is for the door brushers, spraying don't count "*


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

daArch said:


> apologies for not making the first sentence in the OP more noticeable:
> 
> *"This is for the door brushers, spraying don't count "*


Airless on doors? Really? I know it works but wouldn't a nice HVLP work a little better? But i guess if you have twenty doors in your shop an airless would be fastest, but i would think and HVLP would give you a nicer finish overall.

And don't forget safer for the duckies and the birdies.


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## vajpaint (Jul 12, 2012)

start at bottom and go up , paint won"t run uphill


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

The Cutting Edge said:


> If I can spray a door I will every time if not I'm brushing the whole thing. I can't stand to see any kind of stipple or texture on a fresh painted door. That's just me.


Agree 100%.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

So many good pointers.It shows me that painting doors is not just an open and shut case anymore.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

mudbone said:


> So many good pointers.It shows me that painting doors is not just an open and shut case anymore.


Thought I my as well "chime" in.:whistling2:


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Seth The Painter said:


> It's true brushing can be done but you gotta work fast. I'll post a video to tomorrow.


 Thats why its best to spray the damned thing


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

PACman said:


> Airless on doors? Really? I know it works but wouldn't a nice HVLP work a little better? But i guess if you have twenty doors in your shop an airless would be fastest, but i would think and HVLP would give you a nicer finish overall.
> 
> And don't forget safer for the duckies and the birdies.



FF Tip,nice thick primer sanded n cleaned just right,thin the paint a little bit I can get a pretty damned nice smooth finish out of my airless

way quicker then HVLP

You know what HVLPs are good for?Spraying wrought Iron fences!


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## The Cutting Edge (May 25, 2014)

I forgot about this thread. This was a great one right here. I miss DeArch. He must a had a lot of crap to move.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Yup, it's about time for Bill and Oden to come back, this site hasn't been the same since they left. 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Yup, it's about time for Bill and Oden to come back, this site hasn't been the same since they left.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


I just checked and it appears that Oden is still banned. Don't know how long he got. Not sure, but still says 'member' under his name instead of 'senior member', which from the looks of things on this site means you're banned.

Which is really weird.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Wildbill7145 said:


> I just checked and it appears that Oden is still banned. Don't know how long he got. Not sure, but still says 'member' under his name instead of 'senior member', which from the looks of things on this site means you're banned.
> 
> Which is really weird.


They banned him and not me? That doesn't seem fair at all!


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