# How would you tackle this deck?



## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Just took a look at a house yesterday that has some type of solid stain/paint on it. Would you use chems to strip this? If so, what chem's would you use? Or would you just sand it to bare wood?

I'd like to apply a semi-solid stain to the deck. Most likely arbor coat.

Normally I don't work on decks, but this project is for a neighbor.

























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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

First I would power wash it then power sand it.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

cdpainting said:


> First I would power wash it then power sand it.


Do you power stain it too?? :whistling2:


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

As much as I hate and avoid chemical stripping, I would likely go that route on that one. Its too solid looking for sanding alone to be effective.

I have used the Jomax spray on stripper and it worked fine.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Looks like a job for solid deckscapes :yes:


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

If it's currently solid stain and in sound, but dirty condition, then i would clean it and apply another coat of solid stain. No stripping or sanding should be necessary. That's how I would normally approach a deck in this condition. Does that mean I'm a hack?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> If it's currently solid stain and in sound, but dirty condition, then i would clean it and apply another coat of solid stain. No stripping or sanding should be necessary. That's how I would normally approach a deck in this condition. Does that mean I'm a hack?


:yes: yet that's exactly what I'd do. I've tried removing solid deckscapes via chemical/sanding before, a mistake I'll never make again. The spindles are the worst. 

Let someone else loose money on it. :yes:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

A lot of siding and landscaping to worry about applying stripper to that deck. No way I would clean and apply a coat of solid as well.


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## Painter-Aaron (Jan 17, 2013)

I would tear it down and rebuild..

but no a good clean and solid stain. If any one really wanted semi or translucent stain on it, they would want solid once they know the price.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

PNW Painter said:


> Just took a look at a house yesterday that has some type of solid stain/paint on it. Would you use chems to strip this? If so, what chem's would you use? Or would you just sand it to bare wood?
> 
> I'd like to apply a semi-solid stain to the deck. Most likely arbor coat.
> 
> ...


Wash with warm water and tsp. If your trying to make the grain pop, give it a wipe down with some lacquer thinner, then top coat it

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Thanks for all the great advice! A quick pressure, a light sand where needed and a coat of solid stain sounds like the right approach. 

It's so easy to overthink some projects. I guess it's the curse of being a perfectionist.




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## yourpainterray (Aug 8, 2014)

I think you are on the right trail. Keep it simple the customer prolly does not want to spend that much money and the reults will be pleasant.


PNW Painter said:


> Thanks for all the great advice! A quick pressure, a light sand where needed and a coat of solid stain sounds like the right approach.
> 
> It's so easy to overthink some projects. I guess it's the curse of being a perfectionist.
> 
> ...


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## Shakey0818 (Feb 1, 2012)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> If it's currently solid stain and in sound, but dirty condition, then i would clean it and apply another coat of solid stain. No stripping or sanding should be necessary. That's how I would normally approach a deck in this condition. Does that mean I'm a hack?


I would never do any deck in any condition without sanding.Even in perfect condition i would hand sand the spindles and palm sand the floor boards.Most decks i do that are pealing i completely power sand with a grinder and 36 or 60 grit then palm sand.I never trust the work of the guy before me.I usually apply 2-3 coats of Deckscapes on the floor,stairs and handrails.Then 2 coats of Woodscapes on the spindles.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

Strip it and two coats of Flood Solid and call it a day


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Shakey0818 said:


> I would never do any deck in any condition without sanding.Even in perfect condition i would hand sand the spindles and palm sand the floor boards.Most decks i do that are pealing i completely power sand with a grinder and 36 or 60 grit then palm sand.I never trust the work of the guy before me.I usually apply 2-3 coats of Deckscapes on the floor,stairs and handrails.Then 2 coats of Woodscapes on the spindles.


I think I know how you would answer my question!


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

9 out of every 10 decks I do go solid no matter what was on there before and have never had a homeowner wish I did any different. I see so many fools spend days sanding and prepping only to have the deck looking just as bad a few years down the road using semi coatings.


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## Trossi3389 (Jul 14, 2014)

*Without reading the replies*

Firstly, i always get a "weathering report" of the year round damage ware&tear that very particular deck gets sesonally.. if its a yr round southern climate with say 80% shade - 20% sun with nothing more then rain.. i'd recommend the least protection look you can get away with.. i.e- basic natural toner sealer only... this will beautifies your deck of best look you can get out of it.. then the more weather, sun beating it takes the more solid u go.. 

so if you want to use a semi-solid (which i myself uses) for my pressure treated pine it should be taking a pretty heavey northeastern climate beating - winter or HIGH % heavy Sun (SUN IS A DECK KILLER- NO MATTER THE SURFACE MATERIAL USED).. i live in upstate ny, i tried to get away with a semi-trans twice (2 best products imo out there) both went grey 1 season... so now i bumped up to a semi-solid, if you want to use a semi-solid on this, you need to strip it all the way down, deck brightener/orbital sand - (MAKE SURE THIS PARTICULAR DECK) wasn't coated prior to when it should of moisture / mill glaze ect... 9 out of 10 times customers dive right in after 6 months (no matter the circumstances just because thats what they heard...lol) VITAL TO KNOW every deck is different being the areas these decks are placed & and current situation the surface is at.. (coated to new or not).. (very limited know this and its unfortunate) 

So once you strip it all the way down, (if patio/plants/gardens present) i'd recommend using Citristrip, on decks that have minimal layers, its Non-toxic formula & smells won't be an issue.. afterwards & prepped perfectly ready - MUST MAKE SURE 100% Mosture / MG is out and 100% porous prior to application..

Semi-solid - Once 100% perfectly prepped, porous i'd recommend either oil base semi-solid cabot .. or OLYMPIC® ELITE ADVANCED STAIN + SEALANT IN ONE TONER - i just tried out the OLYMPIC "red redar" semi-sold water base and LOVED IT... 

Finally - Semi Solid -- 1 COAT ONLY - BY BRUSH ONLY !!! GLTU


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## Trossi3389 (Jul 14, 2014)

Ok, after reading the replies.. i will add this.. if you want to get away with a quick prep & redcoat.. i'd suggest a quick scrape of the larger peel areas - powerwash & dry - then light wire brush ALL to see if surface condition is somewhat sound.. if some areas peeled to bare wood spot prime or full if necessary with - CABOT PROBLEM SOLVER PRIMER then go FULL SOLID FINISH... 

I MYSELF TWEAKS OUT WHEN MY CUSTOMERS WENT ANYMORE THEN 1X more solid then they needed to... i had one go from 100% pourus bare ready right to a gawky blue color Solid out the shoot.... I WANTED TO SHOOT HER.... UGGH

Anyways GLTU my freind


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## Trossi3389 (Jul 14, 2014)

Now i can't get this out of my head.. be warned.. make sure you do a few color sample tests of 1 coat semi-solid to make sure you like the look.. semi-solid is a little tricky when combining the fact it's only a 1 coat & color so find the one 4 you... i had another customer who used a lighter brighter brown semi-solid and it looked pretty bad (bleeder looking) with black grain.. so he wanted another coat and i stated to him he pretty much just went solid and that when it goes it prob going to peel... that's whats nice about one coat semi-solid, it has the max amount of pigment while applied correctly (+prep right) for when it's time to recoat the previously semi-solid it will be just fade - NO PEEL.. this is huge plus... then all you gotta do is quick sand rehit 1 coat.. 

ok i'm done now..lol..get me out of here.


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## Trossi3389 (Jul 14, 2014)

oh by the way.. i kept my vertical semi-transparent and went semi-solid top rails, steps and floor..lol


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## Krittterkare (Jul 12, 2013)

Trossi3389 said:


> I MYSELF TWEAKS OUT WHEN MY CUSTOMERS WENT ANYMORE THEN 1X more solid then they needed to... i had one go from 100% pourus bare ready right to a gawky blue color Solid out the shoot.... I WANTED TO SHOOT HER.... UGGH
> 
> Anyways GLTU my freind



HAHA! Kind of like stripping paint off of fancy old woodwork then painting again


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## Trossi3389 (Jul 14, 2014)

Krittterkare said:


> HAHA! Kind of like stripping paint off of fancy old woodwork then painting again


No i'm talking a customers decision to use a solid right out the gate over their newly built pressure treated deck..:blink:.. if i bidded them getting away with say, a semi-transparent or even a lower P-Bind, i'd definitely voice my opinion to them.. yet assuring them the strength protection i recommended is a 100% best bet along with best look possible.. 

PNW Painter i also want to apologize i didn't pin point a reply to you with this particular deck at hand.. and after taking a closer look at the pics there's an issue that needs addressing asap.. MOLD...i'd suggest cutting back any & all plantation as far away as can from project.. then power-wash clean, sand & kill mold, a heavy Clorox assuring mold is gone - sand sponge final - then go either Defy Extreme coat (a zinc Oxide stain for these situations) or 2 coats ARBORCOAT Solid stain - (yep i'm screaming to go up in strength protection) lol... cause along with Sun, mold is another murderous deck killer.. play it safe and go all the way with this puppy.. vital to kill that mold before topcoat.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Call me a hack, too. Bleach clean and solid recooat. Get in, get out, get paid.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

PressurePros said:


> Call me a hack, too. Bleach clean and solid recooat. Get in, get out, get paid.


Well said. My approach to decks has always been, less is more. I would consider a solid stain to be useful on decks that are far past their prime. I can't think of any practical reason to try to go back to clears/semi after solid has been applied since the decks are usually over 10-20 years old at that point and barely hanging on. Hack on!


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## DunriteNJ (Aug 15, 2014)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> If it's currently solid stain and in sound, but dirty condition, then i would clean it and apply another coat of solid stain. No stripping or sanding should be necessary. That's how I would normally approach a deck in this condition. Does that mean I'm a hack?



BINGO

no reason to reinvent the wheel if your going to re stain it with say Arbor coat


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