# SW All Surface Enamel 0



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Just an opinion thread....

I used this stuff on some eves and steel door today. (custom colour, in the yellow hue)

I was really surprised and impressed. I brushed it on the eves and it levelled out beautifully so I tried a door. 

Zero VOC, touch in 1/2 hour, recoat in 1 hour. (as per spec) 

In one hour I couldn't pick it off with my finger nail. 

I'm kinda excited about it. The finish makes me look like a great painter.

Anybody else use it (on what substrate) and have pro/con experiences with it?


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## Backroll (Sep 1, 2011)

It's not so great with darker colours. For some reason the cut and roll will dry a different colour.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

P&H - did a Google search and came up with a few back threads here on PT. Check em out if you haven't already. Let me know how you end up feeling about it. Does it come in satin and what were you using it over? I have an oil to latex conversion coming up the first of November where I am considering using this. 
Dan


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## Crown Restoration (Jul 29, 2007)

Iused it in a dark color and it took weeks to cure.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

I use it on front doors. Never had a problem with it.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

I like it! If it is a higher end job I use Duration Gloss for trim, but for most houses I use All Surface Enamel semi gloss on trim.


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## Scannell Painting (Sep 25, 2010)

Backroll said:


> It's not so great with darker colours. For some reason the cut and roll will dry a different colour.


We use it a lot & it's a great product.
Just finished a job using the Bronzetones on metal doors & casings, no problems.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Woodland said:


> I use it on front doors. Never had a problem with it.


Let me add....I pretty much only use it on exterior front doors. Spray only. Been using it for 5 or 6 years now. Covers well and dries quick enough to double coat and put hardware back on in the same day. :thumbsup:


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

researchhound said:


> P&H - did a Google search and came up with a few back threads here on PT. Check em out if you haven't already. Let me know how you end up feeling about it. Does it come in satin and what were you using it over? I have an oil to latex conversion coming up the first of November where I am considering using this.
> Dan


Im assuming this is interior? I would go with SWs adheasion primer followed by SWs Hybrid Pro-classic or BMs Advance. :thumbsup:


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## Scraper (Nov 22, 2009)

I used it for a telephone table over a year ago. Premix black satin or eggshell, can't remember which. But i used it after another paint didn't give me the results I wanted. It gets treated pretty rough because it's in the kitchen and has held up really well.

I remember asking my sw guy why there were so many other paints when this one was for everything and cost much less, and he replied he didn't know. 

Now I wonder why I'm not using it for more stuff.....


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Woodland said:


> Im assuming this is interior? I would go with SWs adheasion primer followed by SWs Hybrid Pro-classic or BMs Advance. :thumbsup:


Yeah - its' a bathroom where the walls and ceiling are all oil semi-gloss. Don't run into that much anymore but at least this one will be prepped and primed properly before the conversion - unlike many I encounter.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

researchhound said:


> Yeah - its' a bathroom where the walls and ceiling are all oil semi-gloss. Don't run into that much anymore but at least this one will be prepped and primed properly before the conversion - unlike many I encounter.


If thats the case, I would just go with SW adheasion primer and a latex satin or semi like Duration Home.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

I thought this thread died at my opinion. I've had mixed feelings about thus paint since my first use of it. 

On my phone so I won't peck it out now. 

Some great suggestions there Mike.


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## Dunbar Painting (Mar 19, 2010)

My biggest complaint about All Surface Enamel is it can be drippy. You apply it somewhere and it looks fine, only to come back 20 minutes later and see random drips down your fascia etc. I did not notice this with Duration Gloss.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> I thought this thread died at my opinion. I've had mixed feelings about thus paint since my first use of it.
> 
> On my phone so I won't peck it out now.
> 
> Some great suggestions there Mike.


Well you did finish the OP with a question. Didn't want to hurt your feelings and leave you with 0 replies.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

What are your concerns? I have some interior steel doors and I'm looking for something that is going to smooth out nicely after being brushed on.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

researchhound said:


> Well you did finish the OP with a question. Didn't want to hurt your feelings and leave you with 0 replies.


Hey....thanks man! I'm slow to respond. 

Dunbar is right, I too find it can run easily. I used it originally on some steel doors and eves...they looked great!

I primed another door and it laid out completely differently. I fought it, sanded it, fought it...I actually completely sanded the door and started over. (never done that before) I called it the Taj Mahal Door because I spent so much time on it, not because it looked good when I was done. 

Not as horny about it as I was when I first tried it.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Woodland said:


> Let me add....I pretty much only use it on exterior front doors. Spray only. Been using it for 5 or 6 years now. Covers well and dries quick enough to double coat and put hardware back on in the same day. :thumbsup:


Hi Woodland
What's your system for shooting front doors? I assume you're talking about exteriors. Tent off around the door, open slightly with paper around edges? I just brushed one out today with Aura, looked nice but wished I had a better system for shooting them in place. Thanks.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Wood511 said:


> What are your concerns? I have some interior steel doors and I'm looking for something that is going to smooth out nicely after being brushed on.


The "All Surface Enamel" would probably not be what your looking for. I only use it on front doors and spray only. I think it brushes like $hit. Since getting away from oil, I been using DTM for metal doors and frames, but was also recently really impressed with SW  Pre Cat Epoxy :thumbup: It lays down very nice and leaves a reallly durable finish.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Hi Woodland
> What's your system for shooting front doors? I assume you're talking about exteriors. Tent off around the door, open slightly with paper around edges? I just brushed one out today with Aura, looked nice but wished I had a better system for shooting them in place. Thanks.


Pretty much. I mask the edges, and the inside of the frame. I dont leave the door open though. I just pull the weather strip and shoot inside towards the frame. I did this one today. I will say, dont go bigger than an .011 tip. The stuff sprays nice, lays down good, and dries fairly quick but it will run like a bandit if your not careful. I prefer a 410 fine finish. I used a 411 today.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Hey Damon, are you staying busy or know anyone looking for work? My buddy needs a couple guys on some ext commercial repaints in Seattle. Could turn into a great opportunity for a guy who doesnt mind traveling.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Thanks for posting your reply Woodland! I only just now saw it. I need to find out if there's a way to be notified of replies to threads I post on. We are pretty much booked for exterior stuff right now, and are blessed to have some interior work booked out for at least the next couple weeks. I'd be curious to learn more about the opportunity to see if it's a fit for me or someone I know. Feel free to email at
[email protected]


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I'm doing a bid soon for a 49 unit condo where they want all the entry doors painted. I'm thinking of using the SW 0 voc acrylic industrial coating. It's very durable and has great adhesion. Havent tried spraying it yet. Wont be doing the work until next spring if we get it. Thanks again for the feedback on shooting doors!


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Damon T said:


> I'm doing a bid soon for a 49 unit condo where they want all the entry doors painted. I'm thinking of using the SW 0 voc acrylic industrial coating. It's very durable and has great adhesion. Havent tried spraying it yet. Wont be doing the work until next spring if we get it. Thanks again for the feedback on shooting doors!


Sounds like a good choice :thumbsup:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Damon T said:


> Thanks for posting your reply Woodland! I only just now saw it. I need to find out if there's a way to be notified of replies to threads I post on. We are pretty much booked for exterior stuff right now, and are blessed to have some interior work booked out for at least the next couple weeks. I'd be curious to learn more about the opportunity to see if it's a fit for me or someone I know. Feel free to email at
> [email protected]



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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Cool, thanks for the subscribe tips!


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Damon T said:


> I'm doing a bid soon for a 49 unit condo where they want all the entry doors painted. I'm thinking of using the SW 0 voc acrylic industrial coating. It's very durable and has great adhesion. Havent tried spraying it yet. Wont be doing the work until next spring if we get it. Thanks again for the feedback on shooting doors!


I tried this out last year on some restaurant doors (http://www.painttalk.com/f22/dtm-vs-alkyd-8254/#post140293) and was initially happy with the results until I was called back less than three months later. Ended up repainting in a BM alkyd.

The doors were cleaned with a solvent, sanded, then washed. It was definitely nor prep or applicator error. The light spots in the pics was where the orig paint was showing after the SW had worn off


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

well, I had the great good luck to be in a snafu with some pre-primed steel doors...I used DTM from SW...and had issues with adhesion......

so I stripped two doors with stripper...eco-stuff from SW forget name
and started over with adhesion primer and all surface enamel........and it was easier product to work.

woodland-the door looks sweet.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Tonyg said:


> I tried this out last year on some restaurant doors (http://www.painttalk.com/f22/dtm-vs-alkyd-8254/#post140293) and was initially happy with the results until I was called back less than three months later. Ended up repainting in a BM alkyd.
> 
> The doors were cleaned with a solvent, sanded, then washed. It was definitely nor prep or applicator error. The light spots in the pics was where the orig paint was showing after the SW had worn off


Cheese n crackers! That looks awful! So you used the 0 VOC ACRYLIC PRO INDUSTRIAL? Can't understand why it would do that, unless maybe grease didn't get completely removed? I know you cleaned it well. Spooky!


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

You ever look into Pitt Tech for this kind of application? Supposed to be pretty tough stuff.


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## Mod Paint Works (Jul 2, 2010)

Or Break Through from BM


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Mod Paint Works said:


> Or Break Through from BM


Actually Break Through is a PPG product, and we tried it on a mill pack this summer. Between using that and SW Easy Sand, we managed to kill all profit on what could have been a good job. Will never use break through on anything more than one side of one door again. The overspray dries almost instantly and goes everywhere, leaving a dusty mess on the back side of the door you just shot, all over the floor etc. quite a headache!


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Come to think of it Mod Paint, the Break Through might be the perfect product for the job I have to shoot a bunch of entry doors on. Maybe that's what you were pointing out as I had posted about that project earlier on this thread. How interesting! I'll have to test their dark colors though, as a friend said it was kind of grainy looking, and the doors on my job are black.


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