# which festool sander for interior trim?



## Dunbar Painting

I have been doing some research here and there on getting a Festool dust extractor and some sanders to go with it.

Due to the large amount of sanders I have going on at once for exteriors, i realize it is totally impractical for that, however, I am very interested in it for interior work.

Which sander(s) do you recommend for: 

Interior trim: sanding nail fills, and making trim pieces flush
interior drywall patches: sanding patches that are small prior to painting
interior wall sanding: sanding walls for a smooth finish.

Thanks


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## Dunbar Painting

was thinking RO 90


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## CliffK

I was thinking about going to the RS2 Half Sheet orbital for walls. I've got an old Rockwell that is probably 40+ years old and still going strong, but no vac attachment. I think the RO125 is probably the most universal, but a little over gunned for small stuff. The Ro 90 does look nice for interior trim .


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## DeanV

RO 90: not good for walls (too small I think), but versital on trim and the delta attachment is great for detail sanding.

RO 125: most versital for interior and exterior over all. But, larger body size.

Ets 125 is a great random orbit sander for interior work or Rts 400 for a rectangular pad.


I think I would say RO 90, but throw out wall sanding.


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## Dunbar Painting

DeanV said:


> RO 90: not good for walls (too small I think), but versital on trim and the delta attachment is great for detail sanding.
> 
> RO 125: most versital for interior and exterior over all. But, larger body size.
> 
> Ets 125 is a great random orbit sander for interior work or Rts 400 for a rectangular pad.
> 
> 
> I think I would say RO 90, but throw out wall sanding.


What about using the RO90 to sand small patches on the wall?


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## DeanV

Should be fine for that. Remember that none of the RO dual mode models are super compact, but they are very useful for interior and exterior work.


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## JoseyWales

I use the ets125 for sanding mud...I use the yellow sanding pads with thousands of holes in it..


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## vermontpainter

Hot interior trim sander.


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## Dunbar Painting

vermontpainter said:


> Hot interior trim sander.



hmm... sanding bark off wood is not exactly the same as sanding fills on interior trim, but I get the idea.

Are there attachments for smaller/tight areas? 

What would you use for those?


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## jack pauhl

Use a firm pad on the 90 if u go that route which I wouldn't recommend even tho that sander is cool and all.

What fillers are you using that needs an RO? Hope its tough stuff because RO's can pull filler from the hole if you are not careful leaving you with no option but to refill the faint cupping in the holes. Shrinkfree's and lightweights require more delicate sanding. 

I sort of hoped the RO90 would work good on door edges but I find the balance of the RO90 a little off to be placing on surfaces not equal to the pad size.


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## DeanV

If only finesse sanding, ETS 125 or rts 400.

If you need power for shaping and stripping as well, and think you need both a circular pad and a pad with corners, RO 90.


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## Dunbar Painting

Thanks everyone


I think a finesse sander and a more intense sander is probably what I will need.

Since there is not really one that does both.


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## vermontpainter

Dunbar Painting said:


> Thanks everyone
> 
> 
> I think a finesse sander and a more intense sander is probably what I will need.
> 
> Since there is not really one that does both.


Dunbar

The RO90 would be the one sander I would buy first for your purposes. It is multimode, meaning you can pop the round head off and put a trianglular detail sanding attachment on. Or, you can run it in straight orbital mode, or you can run it in a gear driven mode for anything from material removal to polishing. 

It has quite a range of use and the 3 1/2 inch size is very convenient on interior trim. Also, the dust extraction on the unit is great. 

I have been using this sander extensively for many months and have not seen it show signs of pulling filler out, as JP suggests. I think he is probably filling so fast that he is sanding before the filler has cured. :jester:

But in all serious, for your first Festool purchase, and for the type of work you are describing, it is a great all around tool. We have two, and the guys on our crew end up fighting over them because there are so many uses for them.


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## Dunbar Painting

I did some research on the festool forums and found a post that Sean had made there.

The advice given for drywall/drywall patch sanding was the Festool DTS 400.

I may buy a DTS 400, RO 90, and CT 26.


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## Paint and Hammer

Dunbar Painting said:


> I did some research on the festool forums and found a post that Sean had made there.
> 
> The advice given for drywall/drywall patch sanding was the Festool DTS 400.
> 
> I may buy a DTS 400, RO 90, and CT 26.



Coby, your thought process is done....that is a perfect starter. Look for a package.


When exterior season comes around you will look at the RO150 and the RAS115.

As per our mails, you will amazed at how these things contain the dust....


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## Dunbar Painting

I also just found an actual Festool dealer in Vancouver:

http://www.ultimatetools.ca/pages/contact-us


This means I don't have to go all the way to coquitlam to KMS tools where they are always busy and the festool guy is never there to answer questions.


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## Paint and Hammer

Dunbar Painting said:


> I also just found an actual Festool dealer in Vancouver:
> 
> http://www.ultimatetools.ca/pages/contact-us
> 
> 
> This means I don't have to go all the way to coquitlam to KMS tools where they are always busy and the festool guy is never there to answer questions.


Great. They have a DTS400 with a CT26 package. http://www.ultimatetools.ca/products/2122

I hope the guy there is knowledgable. Pick his brain about abrasives.


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## shofestoolusa

Sorry I'm a little late to the thread, but my suggestion for drywall work would be the DTS 400 or RTS 400 sander. Both are lightweight which is good for overhead work, have a small stroke so you're not removing material really fast, great dust extraction capabilities and are able to get into 90 degree corners because of their shape, unlike a round pad sander.

The RO 90 is an amazing tool, but it's not well suited for drywall sanding in my opinion unless it's just the occasional thing. It would be much better at trim, face frames, stair treads, etc. Like all three of our Rotex sanders (available in 3.5", 5" and 6" sizes), the aggressive mode let's you strip paint very, very, VERY quickly and efficiently. So, if you're removing paint from siding, it's an unbelievable tool. Then, you switch any of these three sanders over into random orbit mode and you have great finish sanders.

We have a 30 day no-hassle money back guarantee. So, if you're having trouble deciding, don't get too stressed out about it. Just pick the one(s) you think will work best for you and give them a try. If they don't work out, return or exchange them.

Edit: Dan Clermont of Ultimate Tools is a great guy and very knowledgeable. I'm sure he'll take great care of you and get you the tool(s) to make your work much more efficient.

If you have additional questions, feel free to let me know or email me at [email protected] and I'll help you out.

Thanks,
Shane


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## Dunbar Painting

shofestoolusa said:


> Sorry I'm a little late to the thread, but my suggestion for drywall work would be the DTS 400 or RTS 400 sander. Both are lightweight which is good for overhead work, have a small stroke so you're not removing material really fast, great dust extraction capabilities and are able to get into 90 degree corners because of their shape, unlike a round pad sander.
> 
> The RO 90 is an amazing tool, but it's not well suited for drywall sanding in my opinion unless it's just the occasional thing. It would be much better at trim, face frames, stair treads, etc. Like all three of our Rotex sanders (available in 3.5", 5" and 6" sizes), the aggressive mode let's you strip paint very, very, VERY quickly and efficiently. So, if you're removing paint from siding, it's an unbelievable tool. Then, you switch any of these three sanders over into random orbit mode and you have great finish sanders.
> 
> We have a 30 day no-hassle money back guarantee. So, if you're having trouble deciding, don't get too stressed out about it. Just pick the one(s) you think will work best for you and give them a try. If they don't work out, return or exchange them.
> 
> Edit: Dan Clermont of Ultimate Tools is a great guy and very knowledgeable. I'm sure he'll take great care of you and get you the tool(s) to make your work much more efficient.
> 
> If you have additional questions, feel free to let me know or email me at [email protected] and I'll help you out.
> 
> Thanks,
> Shane




Fantastic response, thank you. I am heading in to see Dan today.


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## Workaholic

Dunbar Painting said:


> I did some research on the festool forums and found a post that Sean had made there.
> 
> The advice given for drywall/drywall patch sanding was the Festool DTS 400.
> 
> I may buy a DTS 400, RO 90, and CT 26.


The ETS125 was also recommended for drywall repairs. 

I was told the same thing Shane said about the RO 90, not ideal for drywall but for trim.


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## DeanV

Here is a flow chart to help decide. Does not include RO 90 though.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/how_to_pick_the_right_festool_sander.pdf


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## Workaholic

DeanV said:


> Here is a flow chart to help decide. Does not include RO 90 though.
> 
> http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/how_to_pick_the_right_festool_sander.pdf


Great post Dean, thanks!


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## straight_lines

I will be putting the RO 90 to the test on a nc commercial job I have coming up in about two weeks. Until then there are plenty of things around the shop I will be playing with. :thumbsup:


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## DeanV

Vac posts moved to lead paint section.


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## Paint and Hammer

Tommy, yours looks so shiny and pretty. 

I find I'm using mine as a portable tray. I'm going to put a 'painters' sustainer on top instead of this.


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## Workaholic

Paint and Hammer said:


> Tommy, yours looks so shiny and pretty.
> 
> I find I'm using mine as a portable tray. I'm going to put a 'painters' sustainer on top instead of this.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 9024


You got as link for the painters systainer?


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## straight_lines

I don't think they exist yet.


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## Workaholic

straight_lines said:


> I don't think they exist yet.


That is what I thought but thought Paul could pm me something if he knew different.


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## Paint and Hammer

They don't. 

I meant I'm going to buy an empty sustainer and design my own instead if throwing my stuff on top.


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## Paint and Hammer

Wasn't intentional, but stirred you guys up. : )


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## vermontpainter

I am intrigued enough to be messing around with ideas on this too.


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## Schmidt & Co.

RO 90 and the ETS 125 are next on my list, and I should be set then. This sucker is getting tall though.


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## Paint and Hammer

Scott you have more sustainers so it would be easier to do, but I was going to make my 'day wall' kit and see what size of sustainer it would fit into. 

I find the 26 rolls so nice and it a good size that it's easy to have by.


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## Paint and Hammer

What do you have there Paul?


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## vermontpainter

Schmidt & Co. said:


> RO 90 and the ETS 125 are next on my list, and I should be set then. This sucker is getting tall though.


This is a great thing for stacks.


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## Schmidt & Co.

Paint and Hammer said:


> What do you have there Paul?


CT 26, RO 125, and abrasive systainer, D36 universal cleaning set and a CXS drill. I'm taking it slow and buying new stuff as needed. :yes:


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## Schmidt & Co.

vermontpainter said:


> This is a great thing for stacks.


Yep, forgot that thats on the list also.


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## vermontpainter

Paint and Hammer said:


> Scott you have more sustainers so it would be easier to do, but I was going to make my 'day wall' kit and see what size of sustainer it would fit into.
> 
> I find the 26 rolls so nice and it a good size that it's easy to have by.


Actually not that easy. I don't have it dialed yet, but its evolving. I did a video on accessorizing my ct 26 with the workcenter, which leaves the top of the hose garage available for a large systainer that could house the paint hand tools. 

It is going to be different for everyone, depending on how they work and what types of jobs they are on the most, etc. 

But for me, the idea of a painter being completely self contained while working mutliple spaces on one level of a house at a time, is appealing. 

There are systainers that you can get and customize. I am hammering on the idea, so that I can replace bucket bosses and tool boxes with a more integrated containment style.


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## Paint and Hammer

Schmidt & Co. said:


> CT 26, RO 125, and abrasive systainer, D36 universal cleaning set and a CXS drill. I'm taking it slow and buying new stuff as needed. :yes:


Um, I wouldn't exactly say that's taking it slow. 

Your opinion on the products? Im not familiar with the abrasive systainer. ( on the phone and it keeps auto correcting that word) Do you find the cleaner kit is worth it?


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## Paint and Hammer

vermontpainter said:


> Actually not that easy. I don't have it dialed yet, but its evolving. I did a video on accessorizing my ct 26 with the workcenter, which leaves the top of the hose garage available for a large systainer that could house the paint hand tools.
> 
> It is going to be different for everyone, depending on how they work and what types of jobs they are on the most, etc.
> 
> But for me, the idea of a painter being completely self contained while working mutliple spaces on one level of a house at a time, is appealing.
> 
> There are systainers that you can get and customize. I am hammering on the idea, so that I can replace bucket bosses and tool boxes with a more integrated containment style.


Exactly. I saw your vid. Way too big for me on site, but like you say.....it's personal. That's where my "day wall" term came from. 

I was thinking best case scenario room paint. Some patching, priming, caulking, fastening, taping....etc. You get my drift. One sander and one "painters systainer". Super compact.


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## vermontpainter

Paint and Hammer said:


> Exactly. I saw your vid. Way too big for me on site, but like you say.....it's personal. That's where my "day wall" term came from.
> 
> I was thinking best case scenario room paint. Some patching, priming, caulking, fastening, taping....etc. You get my drift. One sander and one "painters systainer". Super compact.


Yah, that would be a great "in and out" set up. I do like the idea of after the dirty prep and sanding is done, changing out the bag and setting the vac up for the clean space finish duties. 

The more you dig...


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## Schmidt & Co.

Paint and Hammer said:


> Um, I wouldn't exactly say that's taking it slow.
> 
> Your opinion on the products? Im not familiar with the abrasive systainer. ( on the phone and it keeps auto correcting that word) Do you find the cleaner kit is worth it?


Cleaning kit is_ well_ worth it. Has a larger diameter hose included. I used it extensively on the job I'm on for daily clean up. Plan on adding another hose so I can set the extractor in one place and clean a larger area all at once. 

Abrasive systainer is just a great way to keep an assortment of paper in one location. Like it allot.


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## Paint and Hammer

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Cleaning kit is_ well_ worth it. Has a larger diameter hose included. I used it extensively on the job I'm on for daily clean up. Plan on adding another hose so I can set the extractor in one place and clean a larger area all at once.
> 
> Abrasive systainer is just a great way to keep an assortment of paper in one location. Like it allot.


I looked at the cleaner kit option, but just couldn't justify the price. (and it so freaking big!) For under a $100 they had a 'basic' kit which I didn't buy either, but thought might be the way I'll go. I like your idea of setting up in one spot, especially if its open space like the last pics I saw of you doing the big project last month. (hows that going BTW?)

I just dropped $300 on abrasives the other day, the dealer didn't present it as an option....I'll ask the next time I'm in there.


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## Schmidt & Co.

Paint and Hammer said:


> I saw of you doing the big project last month. (hows that going BTW?)


Going well, and just about done if they would quit changing colors on me. Still waiting for some wallpaper to come in and we will go back for the final week of work. :thumbup:


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## Paint and Hammer

vermontpainter said:


> Yah, that would be a great "in and out" set up. I do like the idea of after the dirty prep and sanding is done, changing out the bag and setting the vac up for the clean space finish duties.
> 
> The more you dig...


Right!
Maybe instead of the bag you devote one extractor for one phase and another for the other phase. CT26 first for its volume and a Mini or Midi for finish?


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## Schmidt & Co.

Here's the abrasive systainer.


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## vermontpainter

Paint and Hammer said:


> Right!
> Maybe instead of the bag you devote one extractor for one phase and another for the other phase. CT26 first for its volume and a Mini or Midi for finish?


That would make alot of sense. The Midi is the right size for that end.


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## vermontpainter

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Here's the abrasive systainer.


Paul

Have you tried Granat?


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## Paint and Hammer

Ahhh, thanks. 

Interesting, that's not how I had envisioned it. I was thinking something that would hold for different sanders. I love the idea of how organized these are....I will be the first to admit that being/staying organized on site is one of my weaknesses.


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## Schmidt & Co.

vermontpainter said:


> Paul
> 
> Have you tried Granat?


Not yet. I didn't know about it when I stocked up with the brilliant. When I burn through this it will be all Granat from then on. :thumbsup:


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## straight_lines

Brilliant sounds cooler than Granat. I have a standard size tool box, and a standard bag that my most used tools currently fit into. I think it would take a good sized systainer to replace them both. Might be best to have two anyways. 

I will also be playing with getting a system set up for me needs. I like that you can customize it for what you need. I would imagine it will be different for each of us, but overall would be very similar.


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## Dunbar Painting

Really glad this thread took off as I have gotton lots of great information from it.

I ended up not making it to the Festool store as I am operating on almost no sleep due to jetlag from 15 hour time diff between here and Singapore, and also have a cold: no sleep.


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## Paint and Hammer

straight_lines said:


> Brilliant sounds cooler than Granat. I have a standard size tool box, and a standard bag that my most used tools currently fit into. I think it would take a good sized systainer to replace them both. Might be best to have two anyways.
> 
> I will also be playing with getting a system set up for me needs. I like that you can customize it for what you need. I would imagine it will be different for each of us, but overall would be very similar.


Bang on...when you get it done we'll have a "I'll show you mine if you show me yours thread". 

Shane may chime in here, but I believe Brilliant is what they suggest for drywall.

Agreed....its cooler sounding than Granat.


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## Dunbar Painting

"DTS400:
Like RTS400 but with
delta shaped pad to
get into corners.
ETS125:
5" random orbital
palm sander for swirl
free finish. Very light
and compact."

Taken from the "How to pick the right festool tool".

Will the delta shaped RTS400 make swirls on a wall of I am using it to sand patches of mud/even out wall issues? If so, is the orbital ETS 125 a better option?


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## shofestoolusa

Paint and Hammer said:


> Bang on...when you get it done we'll have
> Shane may chime in here, but I believe Brilliant is what they suggest for drywall.


Brilliant is fine for drywall as is Granat. Drywall compound is nowhere near as hard on an abrasive as paint, wood or certain types of finishes. One advantage of Granat over Brilliant is its non-clogging properties, especially with paint.



> Will the delta shaped RTS400 make swirls on a wall of I am using it to sand patches of mud/even out wall issues? If so, is the orbital ETS 125 a better option?


This document was produced specifically with the woodworking guys in mind. Swirling would be a term more often associated with the sanding of wood where you're going to apply a clearcoat finish and the grain of the wood is visible through it. I'm no expert on paint, but I don't think this is even going to be a consideration for your application. You would sanding up to 220 or whatever grit is typical for prep for paint on drywall and the results are going to be more dependent on grit than the sanding action. 

Specific to the sanders in question: the ETS 125 is random orbital sander and the DTS/RTS are orbital sanders. What does that mean? Well, a random orbit oscillates, well, randomly unlike a standard orbital sander. That makes the scratch pattern produced by the sander less noticeable because it is constantly changing paths. Theoretically, if you hold an orbital sander completely in the same spot for a period of time, especially with a very low grit abrasive, you would see a distinct scratch pattern produced.

In reality, I don't think the question of orbital versus random orbital even plays a role in what you're doing with your sanders. If you are going to be spraying a clear finish, then the ETS is going to give you a better finish on bare wood. If you're dealing with paint, it shouldn't matter whether you use any of these three sanders. In the end, I think you will find the DTS or RTS more useful because of their ability to reach into corners.

If you have more questions about the differences and applications, let me know. This is good stuff.

Shane


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## Dunbar Painting

Shane,

That does answer my question. I think a sander that "swirls" with an abrasive enough pad could be considered to give swirls on paintable surfaces.

IE: A random orbital sander with 40 grit paper on a painted window can produce swirls if it is used by someone without skill.


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## Dunbar Painting

No one has mentioned:

LS130:
Linear sander for
excellent finish.
Features
interchangeable pads
for edges, profiles,
rebates.


As a sander for doing detail work on trim. IS this not a viable option, or is it that the RO 90 is so much more versatile that it is a better way to spend $400 +


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## shofestoolusa

Dunbar Painting said:


> No one has mentioned:
> As a sander for doing detail work on trim. IS this not a viable option, or is it that the RO 90 is so much more versatile that it is a better way to spend $400 +


I think you'd find the RO 90 a more versatile sander than the LS 130. The LS is very well suited for a particular task and that is sanding irregular shapes and profiles. You can get pads that are preformed for round objects like handrails on stairs, or inside and outside corners, etc. or you can actually buy a kit and make your own custom profile to fit a specific type of trim if you sanding a lot of it. It's going to be able to conform to all of the undulations and curves unlike a conventional sander. The motion of the LS is back and forth in a straight line, just like hand sanding. 

I would recommend that you straight with a more general purpose sander first. You'll get more use out of the RO 90 than the LS 130 more than likely. 

That being said, I see the LS 130 being a hit with painters who deal with trim a lot. Make a few profiles for the more common trim out there and you're sanding down hundreds of linear feet an hour with ease, and no dust.

Shane


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## Dunbar Painting

shofestoolusa said:


> I think you'd find the RO 90 a more versatile sander than the LS 130. The LS is very well suited for a particular task and that is sanding irregular shapes and profiles. You can get pads that are preformed for round objects like handrails on stairs, or inside and outside corners, etc. or you can actually buy a kit and make your own custom profile to fit a specific type of trim if you sanding a lot of it. It's going to be able to conform to all of the undulations and curves unlike a conventional sander. The motion of the LS is back and forth in a straight line, just like hand sanding.
> 
> I would recommend that you straight with a more general purpose sander first. You'll get more use out of the RO 90 than the LS 130 more than likely.
> 
> That being said, I see the LS 130 being a hit with painters who deal with trim a lot. Make a few profiles for the more common trim out there and you're sanding down hundreds of linear feet an hour with ease, and no dust.
> 
> Shane


This is my thought/concern when beginning to buy this equipment.

I know I have upcoming jobs where I will be removing stain/varnish from 100 year old decorative trim in a large house (good customer of mine). Doing this by hand would be horrific. So that tool sounds perfect.

I guess I can buy that additionally when I actually start that job.

I am pretty much set on the RO 90, and then am just deciding between the ETS 125 and DTS 400 for use on vertical surfaces like sanding minor mud patches or imperfections from walls. 

That guy who owns the festool store is going to be like WOO when I Come in and end up dropping $2000 when all is said and done.


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## shofestoolusa

Think I mentioned this already but it's worth saying again. Dropping a pile of money on tools can be a stressful situation because you want to make sure the money is well invested and really going to have a quick return on investment. Well, that's why we have our 30-day money back guarantee. 

Get any of our tools, try them in your real world applications for up to 30 days. If you're not convinced it's worth the money or think maybe one of the other tools we offer will do a better job, just return or exchange it. No hassle, no questions, just a simple "thanks for giving our tool a try".

It's virtually impossible to make a bad decision with that type of guarantee.

Edit: Another thing to consider is taking a scrap of material in with you to test with Dan's demo tools.


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## Dunbar Painting

shofestoolusa said:


> Think I mentioned this already but it's worth saying again. Dropping a pile of money on tools can be a stressful situation because you want to make sure the money is well invested and really going to have a quick return on investment. Well, that's why we have our 30-day money back guarantee.
> 
> Get any of our tools, try them in your real world applications for up to 30 days. If you're not convinced it's worth the money or think maybe one of the other tools we offer will do a better job, just return or exchange it. No hassle, no questions, just a simple "thanks for giving our tool a try".
> 
> It's virtually impossible to make a bad decision with that type of guarantee.
> 
> Edit: Another thing to consider is taking a scrap of material in with you to test with Dan's demo tools.



You did mention this and I did see it on the website, so that is fantastic. Spending that much on tools is kind of scary, but I think there will be a lot of advantages. I am sure most of the higher end contractors will be in on it soon, and getting a head start would be nice. Marketing opportunity etc...


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## Workaholic

Dunbar Painting said:


> "DTS400:
> Like RTS400 but with
> delta shaped pad to
> get into corners.
> ETS125:
> 5" random orbital
> palm sander for swirl
> free finish. Very light
> and compact."
> 
> Taken from the "How to pick the right festool tool".
> 
> Will the delta shaped RTS400 make swirls on a wall of I am using it to sand patches of mud/even out wall issues? If so, is the orbital ETS 125 a better option?


Dunbar, if you are planning on purchasing the RO90 I am not sure you would need a DTS400 as the 90 comes with the Delta head as well. Maybe Shane will say different as I am recently exposed to Festool.


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## shofestoolusa

Workaholic said:


> Dunbar, if you are planning on purchasing the RO90 I am not sure you would need a DTS400 as the 90 comes with the Delta head as well. Maybe Shane will say different as I am recently exposed to Festool.


Sean, the RO 90 is just not a good sander for drywall in my opinion. The sanding surface is very small in size. So, even on a small patch job, it's going to take a while to cover the surface and the smaller the sanding pad, the harder it will be to get a flat, even, feathered surface. So, the RTS or DTS were my suggestion for drywall work because they have a significantly larger surface to cover more sqft faster and still are able to get into corners as opposed to the ETS, which would still be a great sander for drywall but not able to reach the further bits of corners due to the round pad.

On the other hand, the RO 90 is the most perfect sander for trim work, windows, face frames on cabinet and built-ins, stair treads, that sort of thing. The Rotex mode being able to very quickly and aggressively strip old paint makes it ideal. Then you switch over to the random orbit mode and get a nice fine finish before applying new coatings.

It's hard to give a one-size-fits-all solution to you guys. It really depends on your individual needs, techniques, applications, etc. The RO 90 and an RTS/DTS would be a good combination based on what I've read of the intended use.


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## Schmidt & Co.

shofestoolusa said:


> If you're not convinced it's worth the money or think maybe one of the other tools we offer will do a better job, just return or exchange it.


Well then, I have to ask. For those of us that are "thrifty", where do we go to buy the returns? If it still has the same warrantee, I'd be very interested. :yes:


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## Workaholic

shofestoolusa said:


> Sean, the RO 90 is just not a good sander for drywall in my opinion. The sanding surface is very small in size. .
> 
> .


I understand. It slipped my mind we were talking about drywall as the title is trim. 

What is the size difference of the Delta on the 90 and the DTS400?


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## vermontpainter

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Well then, I have to ask. For those of us that are "thrifty", where do we go to buy the returns? If it still has the same warrantee, I'd be very interested. :yes:


May your next ten leads be "thrifty" homeowners.


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## Workaholic

vermontpainter said:


> May your next ten leads be "thrifty" homeowners.


:notworthy::notworthy:


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## shofestoolusa

Schmidt & Co. said:


> Well then, I have to ask. For those of us that are "thrifty", where do we go to buy the returns? If it still has the same warrantee, I'd be very interested. :yes:


Good question, Paul. In the US, we get so few of our tools back (and this is no exaggeration) that we don't accumulate enough to sell reconditioned tools very often, once every 4 years or so. We had a reconditioned tool sale last January so I wouldn't expect to see it happen again for another couple of years. 

We're so confident that folks will buy our tools and be completely blown away with the quality, precision, time savings, ergonomics, dust-free environment, etc. that we can offer that return policy.

You guys drop thousands on high end sprayers because they are worth it. Well, the same is true with sanders, dust extractors and the like. It's an investment to improve your business. To give yourself a distinct competitive advantage over the competition.


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## shofestoolusa

Workaholic said:


> I understand. It slipped my mind we were talking
> What is the size difference of the Delta on the 90 and the DTS400?


The RO 90's round pad is 90mm, roughly 3½ inches in diameter. The delta (triangular) pad is 93mm corner to corner, about 3½ inches.

The DTS 400's pad is 100mm x 150mm, almost 4" x 6".

I would guess that you'd cover approximately 2½ times the surface area with the DTS versus the RO 90 without doing the math, which is difficult since the pads are curved and not a perfect triangle.

I don't have these two sanders at home right now, which is where I am. I can take a comparison photo tomorrow in the office and post it.


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## Workaholic

shofestoolusa said:


> The RO 90's round pad is 90mm, roughly 3½ inches in diameter. The delta (triangular) pad is 93mm corner to corner, about 3½ inches.
> 
> The DTS 400's pad is 100mm x 150mm, almost 4" x 6".
> 
> I would guess that you'd cover approximately 2½ times the surface area with the DTS versus the RO 90 without doing the math, which is difficult since the pads are curved and not a perfect triangle.
> 
> I don't have these two sanders at home right now, which is where I am. I can take a comparison photo tomorrow in the office and post it.


Thanks that clears it up enough for me. I looked up the Dts and saw the 4x6 but did not see the specs for the 90 attachment.


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## Schmidt & Co.

Hey Shane..... As a side note I just wanted to say thanks for your time here. I know your not at work now and appreciate it. I sometimes have to remind myself that not everyone "lives" work like some of us here do. :thumbsup:


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## Dunbar Painting

Workaholic said:


> I understand. It slipped my mind we were talking about drywall as the title is trim.
> 
> What is the size difference of the Delta on the 90 and the DTS400?



Sorry about that. I made the page title and then when I started writing the post I guess I realized I had more questions than originally intended and never change the title back.

I was really just trying to figure out what sanders would be useful for interior repaints to go with a dust extractor. So there are a variety of potential uses including trim work, detail work & drywall patches.


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## Workaholic

Dunbar Painting said:


> Sorry about that. I made the page title and then when I started writing the post I guess I realized I had more questions than originally intended and never change the title back.
> 
> I was really just trying to figure out what sanders would be useful for interior repaints to go with a dust extractor. So there are a variety of potential uses including trim work, detail work & drywall patches.


It was my bad, I knew we switched over to drywall repairs but when I came back I spaced. 

My guess would be a CT-26 or Midi, ETS125, DTS400, RTS400, RO90, RO150 would get you through many situations, unless of course you are more remodel based. Then every job you go price sell the fact that you are clean and efficient.


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## vermontpainter

Our sanders are mostly on jobs right now, but here are some abrasive images for size comparison.


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## jack pauhl

vermontpainter said:


> I have been using this sander extensively for many months and have not seen it show signs of pulling filler out, as JP suggests. I think he is probably filling so fast that he is sanding before the filler has cured. :jester:


Good to hear you found a solution that works. Which abrasive and grit and filler are you using? Are you trying the RO90 on MDF with that filler? I want try your method because thats why I have an RO90 and not using it on MDF with lightweight fillers. We didn't have any problems with Crack Shot, Elmers or MH Ready Patch but we rarely use those.


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## vermontpainter

jack pauhl said:


> Good to hear you found a solution that works. Which abrasive and grit and filler are you using? Are you trying the RO90 on MDF with that filler? I want try your method because thats why I have an RO90 and not using it on MDF with lightweight fillers. We didn't have any problems with Crack Shot, Elmers or MH Ready Patch but we rarely use those.


We use several different types and brands of filler, depending on substrates and fasteners. We rarely see mdf. But the substrate drives the filler, which drives grit, and the profile determines sander selection. 

So, there is no one size fits all, at least for my projects. 

One general idea to consider on filling and sanding is that most guys (in my experience) are a step too high (fine) on the grit when sanding nail hole fillers, and they burnish. The substrate, and the filler. As a general rule, backing down a grit is a good idea. 

With the 90, and all our sanders, we are running Granat pretty much exclusively, with the exception of a couple of profiles that have us studying vlies as a viable option. Any given grit on the 90 in delta mode is a very different experience than the same grit in the round modes. But, generally, as above, we are using granat, probably a step on the grittier side, but with "seasoned" abrasives. 

It sounds like alot to be thinking about it, but it has become pretty much second nature for our guys.


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## Workaholic

vermontpainter said:


> Our sanders are mostly on jobs right now, but here are some abrasive images for size comparison.


What type of Epoxy is that? 

Thanks that post puts it in real prospective.


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## jack pauhl

vermontpainter said:


> We use several different types and brands of filler, depending on substrates and fasteners. We rarely see mdf. But the substrate drives the filler, which drives grit, and the profile determines sander selection.
> 
> So, there is no one size fits all, at least for my projects.
> 
> One general idea to consider on filling and sanding is that most guys (in my experience) are a step too high (fine) on the grit when sanding nail hole fillers, and they burnish. The substrate, and the filler. As a general rule, backing down a grit is a good idea.
> 
> With the 90, and all our sanders, we are running Granat pretty much exclusively, with the exception of a couple of profiles that have us studying vlies as a viable option. Any given grit on the 90 in delta mode is a very different experience than the same grit in the round modes. But, generally, as above, we are using granat, probably a step on the grittier side, but with "seasoned" abrasives.
> 
> It sounds like alot to be thinking about it, but it has become pretty much second nature for our guys.


I see. I was hoping you had a solution on MDF using a certain filler. We tossed around the idea of using Crack Shot, or Elmers but they take longer to apply vs lightweights. Plus you can get back on lightweights faster but they are light-weight and easily removed but they are superior for filling fine faint fills.

Its not just the RO90 that cupped the holes, hand sanding can too especially those 1" thick foam sanding blocks. They tend to tear through too much using the fine blocks. 

We are on an abranet system of hand sanding our fills and we use 240 mesh because MDF is already tight and the fill gets buzzed so fast because of clean fills that there is no time for burnishing to occur. MDF is rather unique in that respect, today, for us.

The Festool stick fix is still a great sanding solution for inside MDF jambs for fillers. Its such a firm block that if you get cupping with that method then someone should probably slap you and take away your stickfix.


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## Workaholic

jack pauhl said:


> I see. I was hoping you had a solution on MDF using a certain filler. We tossed around the idea of using Crack Shot, or Elmers but they take longer to apply vs lightweights. Plus you can get back on lightweights faster but they are light-weight and easily removed but they are superior for filling fine faint fills.
> 
> Its not just the RO90 that cupped the holes, hand sanding can too especially those 1" thick foam sanding blocks. They tend to tear through too much using the fine blocks.
> 
> We are on an abranet system of hand sanding our fills and we use 240 mesh because MDF is already tight and the fill gets buzzed so fast because of clean fills that there is no time for burnishing to occur. MDF is rather unique in that respect, today, for us.
> 
> The Festool stick fix is still a great sanding solution for inside MDF jambs for fillers. Its such a firm block that if you get cupping with that method then someone should probably slap you and take away your stickfix.


Thanks JP, I had to google Stick Fix and saw an article you did on the subject. :thumbup:
Will have to check it out.


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## vermontpainter

jack pauhl said:


> We are on an abranet system of hand sanding our fills


Our goal is to have 90% of hand sanding eliminated on our jobs.


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## vermontpainter

Workaholic said:


> What type of Epoxy is that?


Shield Crete.


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## TERRY365PAINTER

The stick fix is my best buddy . Love it ❤
The first sander 90 the second buy not sure yet . The 130 or 125 the mirka sanding blocks work great for drywall patches . Love that too .


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## TERRY365PAINTER

These would be nice too . 👍
I just got married though. 
I have to wait err .


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## alertchief

For those of you using a sander like the Festool system what grit of pad have you found
You like best! Out here In Oregon all of our walls have an orange peel texture! I have been looking at the 125eq with the mini collector! I think it would be a great tool to remove all the sins of paint jobs past! Used one of a buddies on a job last week, with aura topcoat and it sure looks great!


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## Paint and Hammer

alertchief said:


> For those of you using a sander like the Festool system what grit of pad have you found
> You like best! Out here In Oregon all of our walls have an orange peel texture! I have been looking at the 125eq with the mini collector! I think it would be a great tool to remove all the sins of paint jobs past! Used one of a buddies on a job last week, with aura topcoat and it sure looks great!



You've seen the light...

It's often better to start a new thread rather than add a new question on something this long. 

Grits for different tasks. If you are talking walls, taking down some orange peel....for me I tend to bump into old style plaster often with big bulges...then re patching and smoothing. I just ran the gammit from 50 to 240. 

Festool has different types of abrasives. Check this out. http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/abrasives_brochure.pdf

They categorize them with names. "Brilliant" and now "Granat" are common types used for paint. 

Its a great system, works very well.


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## shofestoolusa

Well, I was waiting to see if a new thread would be started, but since one wasn't... I would like to state that the ETS 125 is designed to be a super fine finish sander. So, it's going to work best with higher grit papers. While it's possible to use lower grits, I would suggest sticking with grits above 100 for the best results. Also, you'll want to turn the suction on your dust extractor down to half or lower. Too much suction will actually pull the ETS 125 into the material and reduce finish quality as well as make the sander have to work harder. Finally, Granat would be my recommendation for abrasive type. It's capable of handling virtually any type of sanding task, lasts a very long time and is resistant to clogging which you might typically see when sanding paints.

Shane


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## vermontpainter

Thats a great point, Shane. My crew has definitely gone for the ets 125 in many vertical finish sanding situations where other sanders would have also been competent, and they have done it mostly out of comfort. Its a very easy sander to work with and get great results with.


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## Paint and Hammer

Too bad I don't have a pic to show what I've been using mine for lately. 

Often in old homes you will find bulges and cracks above the thresholds of doors. These I find are 'one offs' at some point in history. Typically I'd use a knife to cut it down the crack and pick away until I find solid plaster.

I've been using the 400 or 90 with 50 mowing it down that way. There is less breakage and patching is smoother and easier.

When patching I don't bother with anything less than 150....the sander does the rest. 

The more I use....the more I find uses for....


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## alertchief

shofestoolusa said:


> Well, I was waiting to see if a new thread would be started, but since one wasn't... I would like to state that the ETS 125 is designed to be a super fine finish sander. So, it's going to work best with higher grit papers. While it's possible to use lower grits, I would suggest sticking with grits above 100 for the best results. Also, you'll want to turn the suction on your dust extractor down to half or lower. Too much suction will actually pull the ETS 125 into the material and reduce finish quality as well as make the sander have to work harder. Finally, Granat would be my recommendation for abrasive type. It's capable of handling virtually any type of sanding task, lasts a very long time and is resistant to clogging which you might typically see when sanding paints.
> 
> Shane


Thanks for the solid take! Going down to look at one tomorrow ! Anything that you can use that increases production and finish appearance is a solid add! I had been using pole sanders but after using the 125 that seems like a poor solution in comparison!


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## TERRY365PAINTER

Just bought that baby ets 125 plus 
Takes the work out sanding cabinets . 
Very light . I have to be careful I had to re prime some doors for burning the edges off . Oops


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## shofestoolusa

Consider a more fine grit of abrasives or turn the speed down until you get the hang of it to prevent sanding too much.


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