# One coat duration



## wncpainter (Aug 7, 2010)

Any one ever use Duration as a one coater? got my coupon in the mail for 39 a gallon and am painting a more or less sound coated surface. I'm sparying, back brush, and spraying again as usual, but in the middle of it I was wondering if its overkill to do this with this product? For its list price it better come out of the can swinging a brush..


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Its a great exterior paint that will last, especially in white with just yearly maintenance cleaning. Without seeing what you are painting and color I couldn't make that call for one coat. 

Every coating has to be applied to spec to perform as expected.


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## wncpainter (Aug 7, 2010)

10 year old solid stain that chaulked off pretty bad with a wash. Left side of the fireplace is done and its a deep base so ya probably safer than sorry with two coats. but that first coat that went on heavy looked nice . Covered like a blanket


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## wncpainter (Aug 7, 2010)

and there was some usual spot primming on the raw stuff


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I would still plan on 2 coats. At that sale price I think its a good value.


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

I would put 2 coats. If you want, You can mix emulsa bond with your first coat only. One quart per gallon but don't use for the final coat.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

ReNt A PaInTeR said:


> I would put 2 coats. If you want, You can mix emulsa bond with your first coat only. One quart per gallon but don't use for the final coat.


 
really?:blink:


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## wncpainter (Aug 7, 2010)

Emulsa bond, would'nt that be even more overkill?
Duration supposed to do it all


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

wncpainter said:


> Emulsa bond, would'nt that be even more overkill?
> Duration supposed to do it all


" Suppose"-keyword.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

40/gal for paint?!?!? Holy smokes. 

colorplace is cheaper.

I would have primed that first. Then one solid coat of finish.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

My process for painting over stain is an aggressive pressure wash, one full coat of oil primer and one full, generous coat of a high quality acrylic (Aura, Duration, or Superpaint). Seems to work pretty well


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## Ultimate (Mar 20, 2011)

I'm asking my rep why I didn't get a coupon.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Not my favorite type of siding. If it is any kind of color change I would spec two coats. 

Here is a job I did a few weeks ago with that type of siding.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Wow, they let that one go. We have started using a lot of PeelBond in that application on t-111.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> Wow, they let that one go. We have started using a lot of PeelBond in that application on t-111.


Probably a good practice, I scraped and primed. They swore to me it was done 7 years ago.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> Probably a good practice, I scraped and primed. They swore to me it was done 7 years ago.


They lied.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Paradigmzz said:


> They lied.


Either way they were one of the nicest people I have worked for in a long time.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

As T-111 ages, it can get tough, especially in the sun. It really likes to crack on the surface. We started using PeelBond more extensively 2 years or so ago. It will be interesting to see what the result is in a couple more years.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Paradigmzz said:


> They lied.


 They Sweared also!


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

DeanV said:


> As T-111 ages, it can get tough, especially in the sun. It really likes to crack on the surface. We started using PeelBond more extensively 2 years or so ago. It will be interesting to see what the result is in a couple more years.


 Great stuff -Good practice!:thumbsup:


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## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

chrisn said:


> really?:blink:


Really :thumbsup:


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> As T-111 ages, it can get tough, especially in the sun. It really likes to crack on the surface. We started using PeelBond more extensively 2 years or so ago. It will be interesting to see what the result is in a couple more years.


I don't run into it that much here but this last time it was pretty dried out and I primed most of the siding.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> Not my favorite type of siding. If it is any kind of color change I would spec two coats.
> 
> Here is a job I did a few weeks ago with that type of siding.


Nice job.
That one looked like a good canidate for Peel Bond :thumbup: I use it a lot on T-111 siding


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

DeanV said:


> As T-111 ages, it can get tough, especially in the sun. It really likes to crack on the surface. We started using PeelBond more extensively 2 years or so ago. It will be interesting to see what the result is in a couple more years.



What's your reasoning for Peel Bond Dean? The surface cracks are that big?

The only times I've used it was to soften the surface if it has numerous layers of paint. In the case that Sean showed why not just use an oil primer as T111 itself is smooth.

I think I paid around $40-50 a gallon last summer. Pretty pricy primer.


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## wncpainter (Aug 7, 2010)

> As T-111 ages, it can get tough, especially in the sun. It really likes to crack on the surface.


boy that t-111 looks to be far worse than what I am dealing with, but ya i second that its not the best siding to work with, back rolling and then brushing in the grooves, and after 30 years the cracks on some of the bottoms are pretty far gone even after oil prime and two coats. I was using alot of peel-stop last summer, have not tried peel-bond. in the end all two coated for me came out looking pretty good, hope it lasts a lifetime:whistling2:

My coupon came in the mail,, believe it expirered last week, only a one time use


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> I don't run into it that much here but this last time it was pretty dried out and I primed most of the siding.


T-111 was used on a good bit of commercial buildings here during the late 90s. Time consuming, and it soaks up a ton of material because of all the cracks.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I figure a thick, flexible primer to seal the cracked surface cannot hurt. Seems to work better than oil primer. If there is a lot of bare wood as well, then we oil primer followed by PeelBond.


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## deluxe (Nov 30, 2008)

somebody mentioned earlier paint directly over the exterior stain.....:no:. If you're to paint over stain, prime first. just my 2 cents. And I don't care which "self priming" exterior paint you use prime first.


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## pucks101 (Mar 29, 2012)

I can't see any reason to not do the 2nd coat. All the hard work is done. The 2nd coat is basically minimum effort for maximum gain, so just do it...


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## drums4jay (Jul 26, 2010)

If the stain is 10 years old, that probably means that the wood isn't sealed anymore. I would prime first with an oil primer, and then one coat of Duration should work fine. Without primer, it would be like painting bare wood and your coating will more than likely fail.


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## drums4jay (Jul 26, 2010)

"somebody mentioned earlier paint directly over the exterior stain...... If you're to paint over stain, prime first. just my 2 cents. And I don't care which "self priming" exterior paint you use prime first."

It's true that Duration promotes itself as a "self-priming" paint. But that doesn't mean you can use it as a primer over unpainted surfaces. It's spec'd as a "self-priming" paint ONLY over pre-painted surfaces. Talk about misleading... That being said, I use Duration on all my exteriors and love the stuff.


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