# Advice on paint type/spraying furniture



## pokerliz (Aug 9, 2013)

Hi everyone. Thanks in advance. I belong to woodworking and the tile forums but never knew about this paint forum!! I have been painting and restoring vintage furniture for quite awhile now. Have always used brushes. However, I just got a mid-century armoire with very ornate carved woodwork on the doors that I just don't think will turn out well unless I spray.
I've used many brands of paints but I'm doing a lot of mid century stuff now and that looks best with semi-gloss. I live in Calif so oil is out. My biggest problem is with black semi-gloss latex paint and brush strokes. I use Floetrol and have tried every brush.I sand in between coats. But I just cant get a smooth finish. 
Question 1:what do u guys suggest for best types of paint for wood furniture and used with what brush. (I use BM paints and (gasp) Behr:icon_lol: I also use the Wooster and Purdy brushes. some soft, some extra firm. 
Question 2: I have a CommandMax HVLP sprayer that I just haven't gotten around to using. But I think I'm gonna have to break it out on this armoire. 
I just got a quart of BM 100%acrylic paint in soft gloss to use on it. PLEASE, any tips on how to use that paint with this sprayer would be great!! Do I thin the BM (the kind I got is "moore-100% acrylic, soft gloss, exterior)...it's very thick. I realize this sprayer is no where near pro, but it's just a little something I have to help me out when I get projects like this. 

Here is a pic of the armoire and just a few other projects I've done so you don't think I'm a total goof  The last two photos of the MCM stuff were hand brushed. I stuck in a before shot on the credenza.
Thanks again,
Liz


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

> (I use BM paints and (gasp) Behr:icon_lol:


You know they've done their homework...


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## Hog (Apr 4, 2013)

Black is tough. I paint a lot of furniture myself, and on the last few black pieces I've used PPG Breakthrough and either my Titan HVLP , thinning the paint with water, or a small Graco 390 airless with a fine finish tip. The break through is self priming over old paint or varnish, and also new wood. It grips to al lot of surfaces, even plastic. The thinning didn't seem to affect adhesion. If I have to brush, I use a good quality nylon polyester, and a mini roller with either a mohair or foam cover. 
I used Sherwin Williams industrial acrylic gloss (baby blue) last year on a piece, I primed with UMA primer first, sprayed with airless, spectacular results. 
I can still get oil here, and if I use oil black, I get Sherwin William All Surface Enamel. The advantage to spraying that product with an HVLP is that it has less chance of collecting rough areas on back sides of rails etc from overspray as opposed to the breakthrough. 
Don't rule out a short nap roller, I sprayed an island with Breakthrough, got bum rushed by other trades and wasn't happy with finish, so I sanded and rolled it out, it turned out much better.


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## pokerliz (Aug 9, 2013)

Thanks Hog! I've only used the foam roller and the lines just drive me nuts! Will try a short nap. I have relatives in AZ so maybe I can get that SW enamel and bring it back. On bare wood, I usually use a shellac wood sealer. I can get it super smooth and the paint just glides over it. What is that primer that you mentioned tho...


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## Hog (Apr 4, 2013)

UMA primer by XIM , urethane modified acrylic , I use it when I want to make sure of a good bond, water based, and seems to grip better than anything as long as you clean the surface. I usually use TSP to prep.
The Sherwin Williams all surface isn't the best product I've used, but not the worst either.
If you can get lacquer you might try that. Have to spray, but worth exploring. I did a piano once, black, and it turned out well. 
Here, we are not suppose to be able to get oil in gallons, but If you have a spray shop you can purchase or have it shipped to you. I was unaware until a cabinet maker told me, and after checking, he was correct. 
I've been trying to convince my daughter that painting, and embellishing old furniture, or even new unfinished furniture, and then hitting the road for big shows would be a good gig.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Hog said:


> UMA primer by XIM , urethane modified acrylic , I use it when I want to make sure of a good bond, water based, and seems to grip better than anything as long as you clean the surface. I usually use TSP to prep.
> The Sherwin Williams all surface isn't the best product I've used, but not the worst either.
> If you can get lacquer you might try that. Have to spray, but worth exploring. I did a piano once, black, and it turned out well.
> Here, we are not suppose to be able to get oil in gallons, but If you have a spray shop you can purchase or have it shipped to you. I was unaware until a cabinet maker told me, and after checking, he was correct.
> I've been trying to convince my daughter that painting, and embellishing old furniture, or even new unfinished furniture, and then hitting the road for big shows would be a good gig.


I have heard/read about not being able to get oil paint in gallons in some states. Not to hijack this thread, but it would be interesting to hear what states do this.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Hog said:


> UMA primer by XIM , urethane modified acrylic , I use it when I want to make sure of a good bond, water based, and seems to grip better than anything as long as you clean the surface. I usually use TSP to prep.
> The Sherwin Williams all surface isn't the best product I've used, but not the worst either.
> If you can get lacquer you might try that. Have to spray, but worth exploring. I did a piano once, black, and it turned out well.
> Here, we are not suppose to be able to get oil in gallons, but If you have a spray shop you can purchase or have it shipped to you. I was unaware until a cabinet maker told me, and after checking, he was correct.
> I've been trying to convince my daughter that painting, and embellishing old furniture, or even new unfinished furniture, and then hitting the road for big shows would be a good gig.


 Roadhog!:whistling2:


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

I'd recommend SW Kem Aqua or Kem Aqua Plus WB lacquer. It might spray ok with your HVLP if thinned to 30 to 45 sec in a Ford 4 cup. Kem Aqua Plus surfacer is a nice, sandable primer. I think you'll find a night and day difference between WB lacquers and paint when coating furniture. Airless and air assisted airless both work very well. I use AAA and a trans-tech Devilbiss Compact gun (compressor driven) with great results. There are many brands of WB lacquer to choose from, but you can't go wrong with Kem Aqua.


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## HeadHoncho (Apr 17, 2007)

Very good advice above. Kem aqua and BT are unequaled when it comes to adhesion and durability. BT even has a nice stock black. Problem with these products, dry super fast...brushing is not an easy task, gotta be quick and have a plan. Please don't use floetrol in these. lil water helps BT with brush.


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## Lazerline (Mar 26, 2012)

Have yet to try using a HVLP sprayer but Ben Moore "Advance Primer" then "Advance Paint" is what I always use for Cabinets/furnture. I use an airless which took a couple tries to get the hang of with this paint due to its tendency to run. An HVLP might just be a good match for it.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

I would use Stix Primer and Fine Paints of Europe. That ugly old cabinet will at least look well painted...but still ugly.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Yes, FPE Eco if brushing....it cures faster than other WB alkyds. If spraying, Kem Aqua or Breakthrough...


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Used coranado rust scat on a table I refinished last month. Finish is not as good as a high quality oil enamel, but this stuff covers like crazy.


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## Ole34 (Jan 24, 2011)

2 coats rust scat over dark brown .... Love the stuff .....


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Rust Scat looks interesting. I saw your previous PT posts on it... how would you compare it with other WB trim enamels?

- open time when brushing
- cure time
- final cured hardness
- blocking
- sandable? Dry time to be sandable?

How does it spray? I see sag resistance to 6 mils only -- it might be more tricky than Advance. Spray tip size and pressure?

Would you say it looks as good as Advance or ProClassic hybrid?

Since BM owns Coronado and Corotech now, it appears to be available through many BM dealers.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Rust Scat is solvent based. Plenty of work time for me, but no matter how I tried it still had some orange peel. No reduction is recommend. I will be wet sanding and buffing that set out before I put it in a friends store. 

Cure is eight to ten hours I think, low blocking, easy sanding, and very hard. I haven't brushed it, only hvlp turbine sprayed.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

There is Latex version as well. 

Il


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Yes you are correct there is an acrylic version, haven't used it yet. I was using the solvent polyurethane above in black.


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## more_prep (Dec 7, 2009)

Surprised you can't thin a solvent-based coating -- usually that's a strength.

I'm interested in the WB version as a faster curing alternative to WB alkyds for interior trim. 

I'm also thinking of spraying something (anything) that's easy to apply as a color coat, then clear coating with WB semigloss or satin floor poly (I like Varathane). This system should dry and cure fast, and the poly sprays easily. The end result is a tough, hard finish that cures within a week, and has the feel and durability of an alkyd.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I did thin a good bit. That would be a magic bullet for when oil is a no go.


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

Just my $.02 I cheaped out on my HVLP then I had to thin the paint so much it affected the drying. I am not familiar with the one you mentioned so this may not be a problem for you. But I was pretty happy with airless and FF tip.


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## glennb (Mar 7, 2012)

o man they look NICE !


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## glennb (Mar 7, 2012)

give us some close ups ay


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## zibolinghang (Jun 25, 2015)

*Automatic painting machine help you get better painting effect and higher efficiency*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hBO4r42dgI

This automatic painting machine can paint big furniture panels,cabinet boards,door frames, different shapes and sizes furniture panels.
It can greatly increase your efficiency and save much more labor cost.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

more_prep said:


> Surprised you can't thin a solvent-based coating -- usually that's a strength.
> 
> I'm interested in the WB version as a faster curing alternative to WB alkyds for interior trim.
> 
> I'm also thinking of spraying something (anything) that's easy to apply as a color coat, then clear coating with WB semigloss or satin floor poly (I like Varathane). This system should dry and cure fast, and the poly sprays easily. The end result is a tough, hard finish that cures within a week, and has the feel and durability of an alkyd.


I did a bunch wall cabinets in a double car garage last year that way. Color coated with black then shot 2 coats WB Ultra Max gloss by Zar. I see the guy every now and then as he rides like me. Says its held up great and even his work table has held up. Just a thought if you go that route.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Don't think anyone has pointed this out- why are you using exterior paint? It is softer than interior paint and off gasses mildewcides and other weird stuff. All the info people have given is great. I like Breakthrough a lot.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

This is a 2013 thread a spambot dumped his ad in today.


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## georgemelrod (Nov 18, 2021)

Spray paint may seem more expensive than using a paintbrush to paint your wooden item. However, if the surface preparation is properly handled or carried out, utilizing spray paint is quicker, more attractive, and lasts longer. Spray painting will be more practicable in light of these considerations.


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