# How can I make colored spackle...



## Last Craftsman

Hi, 15 years ago or so I worked for a guy who used to color his spackle.

It works excellently for being able to see how much spackle has been applied, which areas have been sanded, and how far exactly to sand down before done. Especially in marginal light.

I recently tried blue food coloring and it worked excellently, problem is it bleeds through acrylic.

I do not want to have to prime with a stain blocking primer just to use this technique.

Does any one know what I can add to spackle to give it some color, that will not bleed through acrylic/latex paint? 

Thanks for any info.


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## ProWallGuy

Maybe add a bit of chalk used for chalk/line markers? It comes in red, blue, or yellow.


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## Last Craftsman

*Chalk line.*

It might be to gritty. I like to use a very fine resolution of spackle.

Also, don't chalk lines bleed through?

Thanks.


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## sage

Two ideas come to mind:
Mix latex paint in spackle or maybe a craft paint?
Or.........tint for paint
.........seems like a lot of trouble doing any of the above.
Sage


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## deluxe

simply add some paint colorant to your spackle and mix it


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## Last Craftsman

*Paint colorant.*

have you seen this done and know that it works with spackle? Or is this an educated guess?

I will try it any way, I am just curious if you have seen this done as a technique.

Thanks.


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## Workaholic

Did you experiment with some water paint? You know like the kind that kids use.
Might be worth experimenting with. Shouldn't bleed through.


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## Roadog

You can use universal tint colorants (UTC) or the colorants used for cement. Have done this on troweled decorative finishes using JC (45 min lightweight) and it works fine and dosnt bleed.


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## Last Craftsman

*Road Dog...*

Awesome thanks.


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## daArch

Universal tints. 

It works. 

Can not get dark colors. The deepest color I got without degradation was an medium Salmon color - but my medium was JC. Have not tried hot mud, spackle, or plaster of paris 

It drys lighter than the wet mix.

test until you get the right color

EDIT: just reread your post. I can undersatnd how many colorants can bleed thru top coats. It that was a concern, I wouldn't tint the "spackle"


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## nEighter

don't use paint. It will "crack" when it dries, and not very sand friendly. I have experimented with this, but only to see if I could get a light beige that the walls were painted.. I had to repair a couple achor holes and the unit didn't have water.. :shrug: so I said what the heck. Came back the next day when water was on and saw that the mud (when dried) was cracked... I redid the holes and just painted the spots after the fix. I would just stick to white IMO, but I do understand what you mean.. kinda how bondo is a different color till sanded. Good luck, post up results :thumbsup:


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## tsunamicontract

why do you need to color spackle?


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## nEighter

I did it cause I didn't have water :doh: it was an experiment more than anything. You ever used Bondo? When there is a valley, it stayes the same color as when dried. The other "high" areas are a different (sanded) color. My guess is he wanted to see low spots :shrug:


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## Bender

Universal tints. 
DAP or red devil makes a spackle that dries a light blue.


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## ewingpainting.net

tsunamicontract said:


> why do you need to color spackle?


????


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## Last Craftsman

*Why to color spackle...*

"It works excellently for being able to see how much spackle has been applied, which areas have been sanded, and how far exactly to sand down before done. Especially in marginal light."

We have been doing a lot of older homes/buildings lately that have a lot of old divots, brush marks, uneven walls with multiple layers of paper that have ben painted over etc.

80% of the time the spackle is exactly the same color as the surface we are prepping.

It is nice to go into a room, and spackle everything, casings, walls, doors, etc, and to be able to later see easily which areas have spackle, and where it is that needs sanding. 

In these situations, the areas that need spackling are random and varied from room to room and job to job. It isn't like spackling new trim where you know there are going to be nails holes spaced evenly and in predictable locations. 

When spackling areas that are not flat, and are located in uneven wall surface such as long ridges that have been taped and painted over many times, it is nice to be able to _easily_ see exactly how the spackle is relating to the surrounding uneven surface to be sure that we will not be adding any uneven-ness to the old walls.

Of course this can be done without coloring the spackle. And we have been doing it without color in the spackle for some time. It requires a lot of light, often at different angles, and basically is more time consuming, a strain on the eyes, and higher possibility that a few spackled areas might get missed which requires going back and fixing them after the first coat goes on.

The guy I worked for who colored his spackle frequently used non-water based primers so color bleed from the spackle was not an issue.

I am trying to find a way to utilize this technique and put two coats of latex or acrylic over the top without having to prime as an extra step.

I have recieved many helpful suggestion in this thread and will try them as soon as I have the chance.

Thanks people who suggested the universal tint colorant. 

Hopefully it will not bleed like food coloring.


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## vermontpainter

As another good thread runs its course, I'd like to just add that a very simple solution that we use is to put a tiny little speck of blue tape next to those random hard to spot spackles. This is usually only necessary during final punch list time. Its nice to know that there are other more complex options though.


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## NEPS.US

I do this


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## Bender

The brass end of a mud knife makes a respectable marker as well.


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## Last Craftsman

*Vermont painter.*



vermontpainter said:


> As another good thread runs its course, I'd like to just add that a very simple solution that we use is to put a tiny little speck of blue tape next to those random hard to spot spackles. This is usually only necessary during final punch list time. Its nice to know that there are other more complex options though.


To be honest, using colored spackle is less complex. It doesn't require putting tape at every spackle spot. It doesn't require removing tape from every spackle spot. It doesn't require moving a light around to angle across every surface that is being sanded. 

It is a lot easier to see when sanding in marginal light, with a lot less eye strain.

Specifically in older buildings where every room is going to have a lot of spackle on the casings, doors, walls, and ceilings.

Being able to see all the spackle spots in the room at a glance makes a big difference.

We currently use lots of light and blue tape to help see the spackle. I had been wanting to color the spackle for a long time remembering how easy it made prep when I worked for a contractor that did so.

I tried blue food coloring and it worked extremely well. The problem is that it bleeds through acrylic. Many here have suggested using universal tint colorants for the application.

I will try it, and hopefully it will not bleed.


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## NEPS.US

ProWallGuy said:


> Maybe add a bit of chalk used for chalk/line markers? It comes in red, blue, or yellow.


just a little .....should not have bleeding issues


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## NACE

We colored spackle for years to facilitate sanding. I thought all contractors did this. You can use UTC's and blend with a Jiffy Mixer, have the paint store tint it and shake it, or purchase some UTC, put them in a squeeze bottle and tint them on the job site. The Aura Gennex Colorant may be a great way to go as well, as it actually dries.


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## Last Craftsman

*Nace...*

Hi thanks for the reply. When you say to use the Aura Gennex Colorant, "as it actually dries". does this mean when using other universial tint colorants, it impedes the dry time of the spackle?

Thanks.


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## nEighter

Like the idea, will try :thumbsup:


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## Damon T

Shoot for a light blue, we use Thalo Blue. It is easy to cover with the topcoat. darker spackle will be harder to cover, similar to the problems with the red bondo putty (one part auto glazing). Careful, as a little drop of colorant (UTC) goes a long way! If you need larger qty the store can take some spackle out of the can, shoot in colorant, shake, and add the remainder back in to mix up. works great. have fun.


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## CobraCDN

We've used yellow tint for years.. the tapers also use it for touch ups after their final sand. A few drops in the mud pan is all you need. You just want to be able to see the patches and not from across the street. My supplier gives me some in a litre can, last me a few years.

Cheers


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## nEighter

I am redoing my own house right now. I will try it on my place first. I will be going to SW later, so I will have em add a few drops of blue in. Won't get to use it till sometime next week though. Thanks for the idea!


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## Joewho

They make a yellow/orange compound, I don't use it but I've seen it a lot on N/C. It's a topping, a lot easier to see than white on white.


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## nEighter

Okay went and picked up 2- 4.5ers of lightweight tonight. I had the the paint station put 5 drops of blue in and had em put it in the shakers. One shook better than the other, but I when I brought em home I hit em with the drill stir till blended. It made a lite blue color. 

I have used it now for about an hour and can honestly say I will do this from this day foward. You can tell depth of the mud, you can tell when you missed a spot or when the trowel vibrated.. it shows up very well. It is sooo much better than plain white. 

I am skimming my own walls on my top floor. I will test that it doesn't bleed color once I prime the walls/ceiling. Thanks for this thread.. great idea :thumbsup:


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## MAK-Deco

As Joewho mentioned USG's "plus 3" is sold tinted a cream color most guys use it for top or final coat so they can see where they have done... 

*off topic a little* We just recently use a few buckets of the "plus 3" with dust control and like it seem to sand better and the dust was not as fine as regular "plus 3"


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## NEPS.US

nEighter said:


> Okay went and picked up 2- 4.5ers of lightweight tonight. I had the the paint station put 5 drops of blue in and had em put it in the shakers. One shook better than the other, but I when I brought em home I hit em with the drill stir till blended. It made a lite blue color.
> 
> I have used it now for about an hour and can honestly say I will do this from this day foward. You can tell depth of the mud, you can tell when you missed a spot or when the trowel vibrated.. it shows up very well. It is sooo much better than plain white.
> 
> I am skimming my own walls on my top floor. I will test that it doesn't bleed color once I prime the walls/ceiling. Thanks for this thread.. great idea :thumbsup:


 am I reading that right ...2-4 5ers or lightweight for a full skim coat??????????? Ouch!


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## nEighter

my whole place is getting it.. Neps you have no idea. The previous painters job is able to be grabbed by a corner, and peeled off in huge, thick sheets. I bought a fixer-upper.


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## cande

I read somewhere to use a little food coloring. I haven't tried it though.


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## Last Craftsman

*I just meant for spackle, hope it works ok for mud.*



nEighter said:


> I am skimming my own walls on my top floor. I will test that it doesn't bleed color once I prime the walls/ceiling. Thanks for this thread.. great idea :thumbsup:


That's awesome it is working for you. I just plan on using it for spackling. I hope you dont have bleed problems after buying a lot of mud and putting color in it.

I dont know how different the matrix of mud is than spackle, and wether or not pigment will migrate from the mud when you paint.

I imagine the first coat of PVA will trap it if it does.

Congrats on your house.


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## nEighter

Hey thanks man  Yeah that is what I was thinking also. It dried to a light light light blue'ish color. Still easier to see blemishes than the white. Again, I will let you all know what happens. I don't think there will be a problem.


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## Joewho

MAK-Deco said:


> As Joewho mentioned USG's "plus 3" is sold tinted a cream color most guys use it for top or final coat so they can see where they have done...
> 
> *off topic a little* We just recently use a few buckets of the "plus 3" with dust control and like it seem to sand better and the dust was not as fine as regular "plus 3"


Hey Mark, I like plus 3 the best, and don't mind a little extra $$ for it.


But, I was talking about the mud that is definately an orangeish color and really soft. Plus3 sands easily and actually has some strength. The orange mud I'm talking about sands too easily and has almost no real hardness to it. Do you know which one I'm talking about? I did a search and couldn't find it.


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## MAK-Deco

Joewho said:


> Hey Mark, I like plus 3 the best, and don't mind a little extra $$ for it.
> 
> 
> But, I was talking about the mud that is definately an orangeish color and really soft. Plus3 sands easily and actually has some strength. The orange mud I'm talking about sands too easily and has almost no real hardness to it. Do you know which one I'm talking about? I did a search and couldn't find it.


It probably a topping of sorts, I have seens plus 3 tinted it comes int he boxes not the 4.5 buckets


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## nEighter

auto glaze is an orangish color, and almost no body to it, it cracks VERY easily. I hate the stuff personally, and never really found a good purpose for it.. on autobody that is.


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## Bender

Ummm, wouldn't untinted mud or spackle only be an issue on a very few particular whites?


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## nEighter

I don't know, but it sure is good on the skimmin I am doing cause white on white... after a while you eyes just cross... at least tinted it gives me a better feel for what the (all my walls are white







) surface is doing that I am working on.


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## CobraCDN

Hmm just had a thought.. white patches... blue trouble light... anyone remember disco? lmao
Cheers


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## ProWallGuy

I found a solution. Saw this in an issue of Walls & Ceiling magazine that came today. Check it out!


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## nEighter

that's awesome PWG! Looks like we were on the right track...  Wonder what that gel is made of..


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## Last Craftsman

ProWallGuy said:


> I found a solution. Saw this in an issue of Walls & Ceiling magazine that came today. Check it out!


Cool. If the UTCs dont work I will get that.

I want to have some colrant that is red, and some that is blue, that way if I ever run into red or blue walls, I will just use the opposite. 

Of course red and blue always contrast white and all other colors, so the two should do it.

Thanks for finding that link.


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## Workaholic

ProWallGuy said:


> I found a solution. Saw this in an issue of Walls & Ceiling magazine that came today. Check it out!


Four years later, have you guys ever used the stuff? I tried it this year and it worked well.

http://paulatuberville.wix.com/never-miss#!about02


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## SouthFloridaPainter

http://youtu.be/7JzN2JsEJaE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7JzN2JsEJaE


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## 6126

ProWallGuy said:


> I found a solution. Saw this in an issue of Walls & Ceiling magazine that came today. Check it out!


 Cool. I signed up for a subcription to "Walls and Ceilings" magazine :thumbup: As for the topic? I've been on a few large commercial jobs where the wall color was pretty much a dead match to the spackled areas. We used to use red food coloring (spackle came out pink) and never had a problem with it bleeding through. We have also had the paint store tint our spackle, but we were going through cases of the stuff. Now a days I just use blue tape.


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## TrueColors

Universal tints. I will add a bit of yellow if im patching over high value Colors .


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## aaron61

Food coloring


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## ROOMINADAY

I bring a pop bottle to the paint store and get them to fill me up with tint! I have Gennex and and now a few old cans of universal tint since they dropped all the glycol tints in favour of a Gennex. I have tinted full batches of mud/ bond in new homes that are done in stages so we can see what has been 2nd and 3rd coated.


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## straight_lines

ProWallGuy said:


> Maybe add a bit of chalk used for chalk/line markers? It comes in red, blue, or yellow.


I taught this trick to one of my new helpers Friday. Added some blue chalk the filler, and explained its to make the filler clearly visible. White one white is really easy to miss.


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## Gough

ROOMINADAY said:


> I bring a pop bottle to the paint store and get them to fill me up with tint! I have Gennex and and now a few old cans of universal tint since they dropped all the glycol tints in favour of a Gennex. I have tinted full batches of mud/ bond in new homes that are done in stages so we can see what has been 2nd and 3rd coated.


Same here. We used to carry a set of UTCs in squeeze bottles, but now we get some Gennex from the paint store.


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## Gough

straight_lines said:


> I taught this trick to one of my new helpers Friday. Added some blue chalk the filler, and explained its to make the filler clearly visible. White one white is really easy to miss.


If I recall correctly (it's bound to happen once in a while), blue is a good choice, but we've had red chalk bleed through WB paints.


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## straight_lines

Yea I haven't had any problems with blue, and black. Just as long as its a small amount. I think it could cause problems hiding if it were to concentrated. 

It begs the question why doesn't the filler/mud come already slightly tinted?


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## Gough

straight_lines said:


> Yea I haven't had any problems with blue, and black. Just as long as its a small amount. I think it could cause problems hiding if it were to concentrated.
> 
> It begs the question why doesn't the filler/mud come already slightly tinted?


I thought someone was making that...USG??


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## Oden

straight_lines said:


> Yea I haven't had any problems with blue, and black. Just as long as its a small amount. I think it could cause problems hiding if it were to concentrated.
> 
> It begs the question why doesn't the filler/mud come already slightly tinted?


I don't know what brand it is but one drywall outfit I've been following after for a while has been using blue colored mud for their Touchups. It comes blue in the can and it is a PITA because it is too dark. They sand and there is blue dust everywhere. I hate following that outfit now, It's much better to get with the taper, give them a little tint(raw umber is my preference) and they bang it up in their touch up mud.


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## paratrooper

Blue chalk like powder works very well. The red bleeds through water based paint.


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## 6126

paratrooper said:


> Blue chalk like powder works very well. The red bleeds through water based paint.


Thats good to know. :thumbsup:


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## TJ Paint

If one didn't want to tint spackle or mud, this could be a solution.


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## Xmark

I use food coloring dyes. yellow chalk or paint tints can also be used.


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## Damon T

I have a few bottles of universal colorant in the truck. Sienna, umber, and blue. If I am tinting spackle I typically use a little of the blue. A little goes a long way. Makes finding the spackle a lot easier come time to sand. I use the umber or sienna if I want to push my primer just a little bit closer to the wall color. I don't end up tinting the primer very often, but every now and then it's helpful. I like the colorant idea over chalk or food color as its made for paint.


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## nEighter

Ceiling I completed less than 2 weeks ago 

:jester:

EDIT: these were taken right before I did the final clean. The pics go by age, the last being the latest.


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## daArch

Paint Talk : Where Necro is Normal:


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## TNpainter

I always tint my spackle blue chalk from a chalk box works like a charm


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## johnny949

TNpainter said:


> I always tint my spackle blue chalk from a chalk box works like a charm


Interesting! Thanks. I would just crumble it into my jar of Crawfords? How much chalk do I use? I like this idea for quickly identifying spackle spots, but I'd be worried about ruining a $20 tub of spackle.


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## TNpainter

johnny949 said:


> Interesting! Thanks. I would just crumble it into my jar of Crawfords? How much chalk do I use? I like this idea for quickly identifying spackle spots, but I'd be worried about ruining a $20 tub of spackle.


Dont tint whole can of spackling just wat u need for particular project. It doesn't take much to tint depends on how blue u want it. Also blue covers easier than the red.


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## mtnbkr3

I always use universal blue tint. Mix in a small amount at a time for prep and after primer. Then for final coat keep I always use white. I've found Crawford's is the best spackle around where I'm at. Anyone know something better?


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## futtyos

Now that a number of suggestions have been given as to how to put color into spackle or mud, how about a colored marker that can be used to pinpoint (or a little bit larger point perhaps) areas on a repaint that need spackling? 

I am on a job where it is difficult to see even with lots of bright lights. I would like to do ONE thorough search on the surfaces to be painted for what needs to be spackled and color each spot with some kind of marker, mix my durabond with colorant, walk to the first wall I am going to work on and immediately see where my work is without re-doing an extensive search. 

I don't like the idea of using blue tape (it gets in the way of what is going to be spackled if put too close to the spot and needs to be taken down at some point anyway - more work), would rather use colored durabond over a colored spot that is not going to bleed through the compound or primer I am eventually going to put on.

Any ideas? 

Fred


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## ProWallGuy

futtyos said:


> Any ideas?
> 
> Fred


Use chalk. Wipe it off with a rag when you spackle the spot.


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## Damon T

Why not just color your spackle with universal colorants and hit the spots as you do your first walk through. That saves you doing a second walk though.


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## futtyos

Damon T said:


> Why not just color your spackle with universal colorants and hit the spots as you do your first walk through. That saves you doing a second walk though.


Because I use Durabond 20 to do patching with. By the time I am done with the first coat I can go around with a 6" or 8" knife to scrape the nubs down and then soon put another coat of Durabond 20 on. Besides, when I first go over the walls and ceilings I often need to scrape things down, pound in nails and put drywall screws next to them, basically prep for patching.

If I color the spots that aren't obvious (like holes that cast very dark shadows) and that cannot be seen when looking straight on at them instead of at an angle to see a shadow while holding a bright light at just the right angle, then I can quickly see where to patch so I can work fast before the Durabond 20 (or 45 or 90 if the job is correspondingly larger) hardens in my tray. Once I start patching I like to continue until I am done if possible.

And it never seems to fail that when I am all done patching and am putting on my primer (or second coat if doing a matte or higher sheen finish coat) I find little areas to patch that jump out at me like they just appeared for the first time!

Fred


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## chrisn

futtyos said:


> Now that a number of suggestions have been given as to how to put color into spackle or mud, how about a colored marker that can be used to pinpoint (or a little bit larger point perhaps) areas on a repaint that need spackling?
> 
> I am on a job where it is difficult to see even with lots of bright lights. I would like to do ONE thorough search on the surfaces to be painted for what needs to be spackled and color each spot with some kind of marker, mix my durabond with colorant, walk to the first wall I am going to work on and immediately see where my work is without re-doing an extensive search.
> 
> I don't like the idea of using blue tape (it gets in the way of what is going to be spackled if put too close to the spot and needs to be taken down at some point anyway - more work), would rather use colored durabond over a colored spot that is not going to bleed through the compound or primer I am eventually going to put on.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Fred


 
one of these?


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## ejs

Add a small amt. of primer with a dipped in paint putty knife of a different color to the spackle and mix it on a piece of lexan, cardboard, etc., as it is used.


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## Damon T

ejs said:


> Add a small amt. of primer with a dipped in paint putty knife of a different color to the spackle and mix it on a piece of lexan, cardboard, etc., as it is used.


Primer and spackle in one!
I think 3M already copyrighted that


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## ejs

I had no idea. You Yankee's are so well in formed.


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## Palnews26

We always use Tints All in the little tubes.
Light Yellow.
Around the holidays we switch to red and green.


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