# what kind of roller frame you guys using?



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I ask cause I was forced to buy a 9" today to do a custom paint job. I usually use mini rollers and muh not so trusty sprayer. 

I bought one of these, a Purdy 9" frame:










was about 9 bux but from what I have used of it so far I like. I like the rubber on the handle.. MUCH better than cheap plastic handles.. I got the standard size diameter vs. the larger "irregular" sized roller for oversized roller covers. I have a ton of rollercovers that are standard size and spending good money on a frame means I am going to keep it for a while and use up the inventory of covers I have.

Back to topic.. what are you guys using?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

*Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Wooster and the black ones with the wire cages that SW sells.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


we used to use those and went back to the regular wooster frames...


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## EricTheHandyman (Jan 29, 2008)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


ditto :thumbsup:


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

a squeaky one....


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

lol 
Squeaky can be maddening:blink:

Sherlocks for me.


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## cy hundley (Aug 17, 2008)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


This one for me as well.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

nEighter said:


> I ask cause I was forced to buy a 9" today to do a custom paint job. I usually use mini rollers and muh not so trusty sprayer.
> 
> I bought one of these, a Purdy 9" frame:
> 
> ...


I also use the Purdy cageless 9" frame. 
Be aware though that the caps are going to release after a goodly amount of use. Falling apart is the only flaw of these handles, so when you remove the sleeve I recommend pulling it off (_after_ cleaning of course) instead of knocking it into a 5. 
The caps go right back on for awhile, but the one at the end will eventually wear down and pop of when you are right in the middle of a huge wall and fall out of the cover.
Getting all of the paint out of the caps is fun also, rinse them thoroughly with hot water. Who doesn't enjoy watching a previous brown color begin to streak your Dover white walls?

real fun times there.


* EDIT:* Don't leave covers on the frame in paint longer than overnight, it will attach tightly to the caps.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


I use this one as well...


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I don't care as long as it can handle a few hundred bangs to remove the sleeves.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


Me too. Always liked them, but especially paired up with a Sherlock GT pole. Makes life better switching quickly between colors, having to ditch the pole in small areas, and no slipping loose. :thumbup:


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

nEighter said:


> I usually use mini rollers


Seriously? I guess you don't do much brush/roll? I couldn't see painting anything over a couple square feet with a mini roller.



chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


Ditto.



MAK-Deco said:


> we used to use those and went back to the regular wooster frames...


Why did you go back?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

ProWallGuy said:


> Seriously? I guess you don't do much brush/roll? I couldn't see painting anything over a couple square feet with a mini roller.
> 
> 
> Ditto.
> ...


I spray 99.753427% of what I paint.. I use the minis for cutting in and small areas (between door frames) that I can't spray. 

The main reason I asked what you guys use is that alot of frames I have used in the past develop a black or grey line from where the frame and washer rub together, then the paint gets in and will leave lines unless you wipe the ends EVERY time. To me it was maddening and I just figured out a way to eliminate the 9" roller from my routine. It made painting not fun.


WISE.. hey man I will do that! Thanks for the info :thumbsup:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I too use a Purdy 1½" cageless, a Wooster fifteen and a Wooster ninety. Used to use the Sherlocks for awhile. I pull my covers off.


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## JAYJAY (Sep 13, 2008)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


dittos


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


Same here. I also you the wooster big ted frame.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> I too use a Purdy 1½" cageless, a Wooster fifteen and a Wooster ninety. Used to use the Sherlocks for awhile. I pull my covers off.



I think that may be your picture I googled and it came up :whistling2:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


I used those because of the no twist pin lock system, it was a first for the market. Now the Purdy cageless has a pinnnn lock system that is better...for me.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> I used those because of the no twist pin lock system, it was a first for the market. Now the Purdy cageless has a pinnnn lock system that is better...for me.



If you use the pin lock you can just drill a hole in the regular ones and that works also.


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## graybear13 (Feb 28, 2009)

Wooster Sherlock and assorted Sherlock poles. When these wear out , I believe I will swap to Purdy . Better system .


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

nEighter said:


> I think that may be your picture I googled and it came up :whistling2:


wonder why the pic doesnt show in your post?? Here it is again. ooo aaah


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Slingah said:


> a squeaky one....



lets me know when my guys are working!


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

graybear13 said:


> Wooster Sherlock and assorted Sherlock poles. When these wear out , I believe I will swap to Purdy . Better system .


The new Purdy poles are nice...expensive but really nice.


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## Msargent (Jan 16, 2009)

14'' and 18'' roller almost all the time.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

with







12 inch or 14 inch


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> with
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The BEAST!! Excellent rig. The job killer. Hey, funny you mention 12 and 14". I heard certain markets are popular with the 12/14". I have to ask the obvious question... why limit yourself and go 18"? Is it just a compromise situation or what? When you use a 12", do you still need a 9?


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

14's have a single arm, so you can roll tight into corners like a 9.
18's you need a four inch cut:blink:


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> we used to use those and went back to the regular wooster frames...


Me too exactly.

At first I thought those spring things made the roller pop off easier. Then I realized I was just having to hit it harder for the cover to come off, so by the time it broke free it had more monentum and shot farther down the cage giving the illusion that there was some kind of advanced mechanical dynamic occuring as a result of the spring tension dealies.



I went back to the regular Woosters also. I like to have a roller frame and cover for each color of paint so I never have to share more than one wet roller cover per frame.

The regular wooster frames work just as good and are cheaper so I bought plenty.


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## michael tust (Mar 6, 2009)

chrisn said:


> *Wooster* Sherlock 9" *Roller Frame*


 Ditto....


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

so no one has experienced getting paint inside the frame/roller and had the rubbing of the washer and frame cause the horrid metal grey lines in the paint finish?


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

nEighter said:


> so no one has experienced getting paint inside the frame/roller and had the rubbing of the washer and frame cause the horrid metal grey lines in the paint finish?


Yeah, sometimes.

Time for a new roller.

I think leaving the roller frame submerged in water, or completely under paint like in five might expediate the phenomenon you are referring to but I am not absolutely sure.

I have used the same several roller frames for the last year with no problems.

It shouldnt happen often enough to where buying a new roller frame isnt a viable solution.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Bender said:


> 14's have a single arm, so you can roll tight into corners like a 9.
> 18's you need a four inch cut:blink:


What is this 14" with open arm that you speak? Sounds interesting. I use the wooster setups, shurlock 9 and a 12" , But I go back to the 9 for the tight roll even if a 12 or 18 would be good for distance. 
BTW, I have to special order the Superfab 12s, haven't seen a store that carries them.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> The BEAST!! Excellent rig. The job killer. Hey, funny you mention 12 and 14". I heard certain markets are popular with the 12/14". I have to ask the obvious question... why limit yourself and go 18"? Is it just a compromise situation or what? When you use a 12", do you still need a 9?


 
18's tend to rock a bit more on drywall seams and leave light areas. I use 12's because they use the hulk frame and I have found there easier and you can get more even pressure. I dont use 18's much at all if ever in a year. When back rolling I tend to use 14's there lighter.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

I have not seen 12's or 14's in stores either.. I often wonder why a 9 inch because the standard roller size... I would think that 12in would be the standard...


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

Ask you local paint store, I did. I asked if they could get me a case in. I bought a half case and they sold the other half so it worked well. Now they have them in stock so I can buy as many as I need. The 12's and 14's are much lighter to work with than a 18 and IMO easier than a 9.

Id check them out if you like to try new things to see if it works for ya.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> Id check them out if you like to try new things to see if it works for ya.


Wha? Huh?

Try new things? That's CRAZY talk.

The only way to do things is the way they have always been done. And the way they have always been done is the *best* way. Always has been, always will be!

:yes:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

no no! Sometimes even trying new things can be FUN!

You dont want to pass up on FUN do ya?


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

MAK said:


> I often wonder why a 9 inch because the standard roller size...


Thats easy. Its because real painters roll out of 5's:whistling2:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

I like paiting out of a 10 gallon.........hat.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

This thread is like an awesome tug of war between trays or as they are known in professional painting circles as "DIY stuff", and a common tool used by a majority of professionals the mighty 5 w/grid.

Martha Stewart called, she wants her tray and liners you borrowed...


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

You mean people still roll out of 5 gallon buckets..........seriously?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> This thread is like an awesome tug of war between trays or as they are known in professional painting circles as "DIY stuff", and a common tool used by a majority of professionals the mighty 5 w/grid.
> 
> Martha Stewart called, she wants her tray and liners you borrowed...


 
You wanna compare numbers tough guy? I bet I do 4x's more volume with trays.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Bender said:


> Thats easy. Its because real painters roll out of 5's:whistling2:


I guess but back in the day before rollers maybe they could of used bigger buckets...


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> The BEAST!! Excellent rig. The job killer. Hey, funny you mention 12 and 14". I heard certain markets are popular with the 12/14". I have to ask the obvious question... why limit yourself and go 18"? Is it just a compromise situation or what? When you use a 12", do you still need a 9?


I hate that Hulk. Maybe I got a bad one. It is constantly loosening. I preper the older version with wing nuts.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

MDRocket said:


> You mean people still roll out of 5 gallon buckets..........seriously?


I wouldn't even dream about moving that thing around all day in a res repaint...


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> You wanna compare numbers tough guy? I bet I do 4x's more volume with trays.


I choose not larger, but more efficient tools that astound average painters when they see what working smarter and not harder really looks like.
I decline your challenge because I respect you and do not want to hurt your "sensibilities" in front of the other guys.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> I choose not larger, but more efficient tools that astound average painters when they see what working smarter and not harder really looks like.
> I decline your challenge because I respect you and do not want to hurt your "sensibilities" in front of the other guys.


Thanks ....I was just messing with ya ....anyways :whistling2:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> You mean people still roll out of 5 gallon buckets..........seriously?


So when you pick that thing up full of paint by the handle...oh wait, there is no handle.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> Thanks ....I was just messing with ya ....anyways :whistling2:


lol.
You know you want to take a proper challenge from another pro painter, how often do we get to see exactly what we are made of with only a helper or lazy hourly rate guys to compare ourselves to?

*Paint~a~thon 2009*

Wise is going for the glory...who's coming with me?!?


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

MAK-Deco said:


> I wouldn't even dream about moving that thing around all day in a res repaint...


Its like paiting out of anything else, besides if you drop the room off and do have a spill your ok.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

NEPS.US said:


> I hate that Hulk. Maybe I got a bad one. It is constantly loosening. I preper the older version with wing nuts.


Theres two black screw like ares in the back of the hulk, unhook it then tighten the two black like screws and it wont slip.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> Its like paiting out of anything else, besides if you drop the room off and do have a spill your ok.



did you just say spilling is ok?

fiiiiiiiiiii~_yard_.


:jester:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

WisePainter said:


> So when you pick that thing up full of paint by the handle...oh wait, there is no handle.


 
Im guessing im just not a cluts and dont need a bib when I eat ither.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> Theres two black screw like ares in the back of the hulk, unhook it then tighten the two black like screws and it wont slip.


Really? Dont I feel stupid. I will fix that monday. Thanks.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> Im guessing im just not a cluts and dont need a bib when I eat ither.



I am thinking about walking from place to place carrying something the size of a large pizza box filled with a colored fluid that doesn't look good on anything but walls.
I have used trays of all sizes, and I cannot get around a job site as quickly as I do when I am using a bucket. And as a solo painter I rely on efficiency and speed to make my profits.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

gotta be smarter than the tool.....it got me also.:yes:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

WisePainter said:


> I am thinking about walking from place to place carrying something the size of a large pizza box filled with a colored fluid that doesn't look good on anything but walls.
> I have used trays of all sizes, and I cannot get around a job site as quickly as I do when I am using a bucket. And as a solo painter I rely on efficiency and speed to make my profits.


got ya.

I havnt had a bad spill yet with bigger trays. I dont fill them to the max. Most times I pour a 5 into a two gallon bucket then take that into the room I'm working in. Then just pour out of the 2 gallons as I need it.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> gotta be smarter than the tool.....it got me also.:yes:



kripes I am but a lowly painter and on some days the tools are able to _easily_ outsmart me.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Raise your hand if you have even used a roller this month.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

This










With two of these snapped together










and this frame


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> This
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've never used a grid with the buckets. Please explain.


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## Msargent (Jan 16, 2009)

Yes 14 more control than a 18 .Tighter into corners ,this will get wise going about his colossous 9, 3/4 nap . I dont usually use a 9 with my 14 depends on the wall size tho:thumbup:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

this turned out to be quite the informative thread :drink:


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

bikerboy said:


> This


I have one of these but do not use it much. 

Are far as the hulk goes, I have the older version with the wingnuts. It does not see a whole lot of action either. The Big Ben frame sees a lot more back rolling action.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> Martha Stewart called, she wants her tray and liners you borrowed...



Ok, I'll paint Martha Stewart's house. You go put paint skin and nappy roller edges on the shopping center!

:jester:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> Ok, I'll paint Martha Stewart's house. You go put paint skin and nappy roller edges on the shopping center!
> 
> :jester:



My Purdy Colossus does not have nappy edges, and my paint buckets are immaculate.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Bender said:


> 14's have a single arm, so you can roll tight into corners like a 9.
> 18's you need a four inch cut:blink:


Bender, sorry I meant the 12 or 14 used with The Hulk. Never seen a 14 with an open shank and cage. Not sure what larger rig keeps you 4" away??, The Hulk and the Original rig can get you about an inch into a corner.

Check it out, I look like a painter.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Check it out, I look like a painter.


Too clean, with khakis. It looks like you stepped in and took the roller away from your painter and snapped a picture.
Also your cell phone is in the "business" position, not the "painting" position.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> Bender, sorry I meant the 12 or 14 used with The Hulk. Never seen a 14 with an open shank and cage. Not sure what larger rig keeps you 4" away??, The Hulk and the Original rig can get you about an inch into a corner.
> 
> Check it out, I look like a painter.


You look rather clean, did you change for picture day?:jester:.......


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> 18's tend to rock a bit more on drywall seams and leave light areas. I use 12's because they use the hulk frame and I have found there easier and you can get more even pressure. I dont use 18's much at all if ever in a year. When back rolling I tend to use 14's there lighter.


MD, yeah the 18's let you know how smooth a wall is for sure especially with a 3/8 pro doo z. I'll have to try a 12 or 14 and see how well that works out.

I generally have a wooster jumbo koter, a 9 and the 18 going. I like to roll tight so I will run the 9 into corners and finish the room with the 18 and use the 6" jumbo koter for anything narrow.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> Too clean, with khakis. It looks like you stepped in and took the roller away from your painter and snapped a picture.
> Also your cell phone is in the "business" position, not the "painting" position.


No, there is no other painter and I don't get any paint on me. The phone is in the position to swivel when I hunch down to roll horizontal under windows etc.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Check it out, I look like a painter.


Not with those pants you don't. :no: :laughing:

Please tell me that is primer you are applying, right?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Bender, sorry I meant the 12 or 14 used with The Hulk. Never seen a 14 with an open shank and cage. Not sure what larger rig keeps you 4" away??, The Hulk and the Original rig can get you about an inch into a corner.
> 
> Check it out, I look like a painter.







Looks like we wear the same attire. I seriously think "whites" look like ass. I don't think "whites" make you a "painter". Quite the setup though.. never used the "big gun" before. Also camos are a bit cooler  Also, who do I have to kill to get some ICI shirts?


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Bender, sorry I meant the 12 or 14 used with The Hulk. Never seen a 14 with an open shank and cage. Not sure what larger rig keeps you 4" away??, The Hulk and the Original rig can get you about an inch into a corner.
> 
> Check it out, I look like a painter.


I think for being in someone's home the cleaner the better. I don't see anything wrong with your attire.

I have one suggestion though. I wouldn't even dream of putting the drop coat on the walls without spraying and back-rolling. One person with a sprayer with 4 foot wand/angle attachment, and another person with a roller.

When the walls are fresh like that with nothing in your way put a 6-17 tip on and MOVE. Only slowing down occasionally to let the guy backrolling catch up to you.

And naturally when you are spraying and back-rolling you are going to get paint on you, especially around your eyes. If you don't look like a Raccoon when you are done, you aren't moving fast enough!

Otherwise, I think HO's appreciate people coming into their house clean and leaving clean. There is little benefit to looking like the painter stereotype.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

and I don't get any paint on me. :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

and is there *ANY* other painter out there that can make that statement??


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

chrisn said:


> and I don't get any paint on me. :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
> 
> and is there *ANY* other painter out there that can make that statement??



It isn't how I look, it is how my paint job looks. I have found that 10/10 times in the end my customers don't care how I look.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

As with life, its not the quality of the clothes, its the quality of the people in the the clothes. The paint industry is not frowned upon because of the appearance of the painters pants. It is frowned upon because of the quality of the people in the pants. That points back to the people that we hire, and the people that we are ourselves. When consumers think of painters they often think of gypsy, fly by night con artists. Even those guys can dress up in clean whites to play the part.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

vermontpainter said:


> As with life, its not the quality of the clothes, its the quality of the people in the the clothes. The paint industry is not frowned upon because of the appearance of the painters pants. It is frowned upon because of the quality of the people in the pants. That points back to the people that we hire, and the people that we are ourselves. When consumers think of painters they often think of gypsy, fly by night con artists. Even those guys can dress up in clean whites to play the part.


I find that overcoming the terrible image of painters is part of the fun, and why I became a painter in the first place.
It is heart warming to see a clients face light up when they suddenly realize that I am an articulate painter with interests that span a wide range of topics. It doesn't take much other than wanting to show them that not all painters are waiting for 12 to roll around so they can take a liquid lunch.

So far my plan is working..._while_ wearing paint covered clothing.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> When consumers think of painters they often think of gypsy, fly by night con artists. Even those guys can dress up in clean whites to play the part.


yeah but those guys don't have the money to buy more than one pair of pants thats why they have there pants coated...

Jack looks like one of my college helpers that shows up on the first day in the summer eager to learn how to paint.

Sorry that look doesn't cut it for me. No need for the phone on you side either your not that important.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> yeah but those guys don't have the money to buy more than one pair of pants thats why they have there pants coated...
> 
> Jack looks like one of my college helpers that shows up on the first day in the summer eager to learn how to paint.
> 
> Sorry that look doesn't cut it for me. No need for the phone on you side either your not that important.


Surely, you jest. There may be no one more important than Jack. I agree, that is the look of a first day college summer helper.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Oh snap! 

and here I thought my caustic biting responses were technically perfect...remind me to never cross the paths of you 2 hit men.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Here it is.
The 9" is there for perspective


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## cy hundley (Aug 17, 2008)

I wear a similar get-up as Jack does, however my phone goes in the cargo pocket on the right side. and I have two towels, one on my left and one on the right where his phone is. 5 in one in right back pocket, 6 in one screw driver in left cargo pocket.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

And I roll out of this when jobs are worth breaking it out.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

WisePainter said:


> This thread is like an awesome tug of war between trays or as they are known in professional painting circles as "DIY stuff", and a common tool used by a majority of professionals the mighty 5 w/grid.
> 
> Martha Stewart called, she wants her tray and liners you borrowed...


Funny... I'm all about paint pans with liners! There is no faster way to load a roller.






Nice and loaded. Not same shot from video


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Bender, looks like the original tray/bucket hybrid from Sherwin Williams??? I like the fact you can carry it but its a sob to clean! 

I roll out of the Big Ben tray for the 18"


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Hey Jack i would love to see you rolling or brushing in a environment that is not new construction where you don't have to worry about drops and drop placement and furniture still in the room center and behind you...

Certainly most guys can fly thru a room when there's nothing in it and your coating the base after rolling the wall..


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> Hey Jack i would love to see you rolling or brushing in a environment that is not new construction where you don't have to worry about drops and drop placement and furniture still in the room center and behind you...
> 
> Certainly most guys can fly thru a room when there's nothing in it and your coating the base after rolling the wall..


I understand what you are saying but you would be surprised what I roll around on new homes, they are NEVER empty and at times I thought I had it better off doing res repaints because you are usually not working around 8-9 other trade guys. I usually have two rooms full of nothing but doors and a room of nothing but my stuff and all the other trades walking around and working in the homes. The appliances are there, 60-75% of the the flooring is hardgoods etc. Its no walk in the park like you think.

And besides... whats the difference if I have a drop under my pan or not? I paint the same regardless.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> And besides... whats the difference if I have a drop under my pan or not? I paint the same regardless.



I think there is a difference when you have a drop pushed up against a base board and carpet underneath... and having furniture right behind you and your sling a four foot pole around... and being able to slide you wonderful pan around on the plywood etc...

There's a differnce between repaints and NC...


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> I think there is a difference when you have a drop pushed up against a base board and carpet underneath... and having furniture right behind you and your sling a four foot pole around... and being able to slide you wonderful pan around on the plywood etc...
> 
> There's a differnce between repaints and NC...


MAK, thats why I posted those pics. Imagine doing 2nd coat on those walls as you see them in the photos and in other rooms all the trades have their stuff setup on the floor too. 

Those doors stay where they are until the walls are done then I hang them.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> MAK, thats why I posted those pics. Imagine doing 2nd coat on those walls as you see them in the photos and in other rooms all the trades have their stuff setup on the floor too.
> 
> Those doors stay where they are until the walls are done then I hang them.



The new construction that I have done and do is mostly remodels but can be 2000 sq ft... we do second or final coats at the end.


My point is that your propaganda videos are always done with the absolute perfect conditions.. and in the real world we know that we don't have those situations and hell even DIY'er don't have ideal situations to paint...


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MAK

Different animals for sure.


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

I havent had problems with the bigger rollers and repaints, you just drop the room off all the way to the base. You put the roller pan in the center of the room or the best spot for the wall your rolling. The key for me is to never over fill your paint tray so theres a chance of a bad accident. Its easier on new construction but you just treat the situation a little diffrent on a repaint.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

MDRocket said:


> I havent had problems with the bigger rollers and repaints, you just drop the room off all the way to the base. You put the roller pan in the center of the room or the best spot for the wall your rolling. The key for me is to never over fill your paint tray so theres a chance of a bad accident. Its easier on new construction but you just treat the situation a little diffrent on a repaint.


Sometime you don't have the center of the room... Still easier to pick up a bucket with a handle... but each there own...


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Just put it on the bed! no problemo! :whistling2:


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Just put it on the bed! no problemo! :whistling2:



:thumbup:


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

BrushJockey said:


> Just put it on the bed! no problemo! :whistling2:


Or use the homeowners small child to hold it for ya


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Now we're coming up with real world solutions!


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Ok guys I need to go out and do yard work or something... its warming up out there again... I think spring is making an attempt to stay around for awhile..


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

A bucket is easier to move around the room, but for me its a bitch to work out of. And its just not as comfortable as a tray. I can forsee next week im gonna spill the tray on the carpet with all this talk about it...........


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## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

JNLP said:


> Me too. Always liked them, but especially paired up with a Sherlock GT pole. Makes life better switching quickly between colors, having to ditch the pole in small areas, and no slipping loose. :thumbup:


 
That's what I would have said!
Sage


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> A bucket is easier to move around the room, but for me its a bitch to work out of. And its just not as comfortable as a tray. I can forsee next week im gonna spill the tray on the carpet with all this talk about it...........


lol.. lets hope that doesn't happen


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

JNLP said:


> I've never used a grid with the buckets. Please explain.


I was complaining to my paint store about the roller skidding (instead of spinning and squeezing out excess) over those little sissy raised ribs in the bucket. He gave me two of those screens to try. They snap together and fit right inside. I am hooked!


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

MDRocket said:


> A bucket is easier to move around the room, but for me its a bitch to work out of. And its just not as comfortable as a tray. I can forsee next week im gonna spill the tray on the carpet with all this talk about it...........





jack pauhl said:


> lol.. lets hope that doesn't happen


No doubt, that's something I wouldn't wish on my competition.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Here is my thinking on those paint screens, grids used with 5's.

The idea of taking a heavy load of paint from a bucket and then rolling in on the screen so the paint comes back off through the holes makes no sense to me.

On the other hand, I think the ramp ribbing on deep-well metal pans are lousy for the sole reason that the ribs are so faint it becomes difficult to get paint to stay on the ramp which is THE GOAL and to give traction so the roller can fully roll. So I use a tray liner because they increase the hold capacity of the ramp drastically. I want my ramp to be saturated with paint but still allow me to position the load so I can carry it to the wall without dripping.

I guess I complain there is never enough paint pooling on the ramp and you guys rolling out of a 5 for some reason this isn't an issue as you roll your full load over a grid that allows that paint I want to fall through the holes.

Can anyone explain the idea or purpose of the grids? More about the holes. I get you need something to roll off.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Can anyone explain the idea or purpose of the grids? More about the holes. I get you need something to roll off.


With all your infinite wisdom you should be able to answer that. It is to keep a vast quantity of paint from dripping off and leaving a trail from the bucket to the wall.

I mean, c'mon....you are really kidding....right?


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

MDRocket said:


> A bucket is easier to move around the room, but for me its a bitch to work out of. And its just not as comfortable as a tray. I can forsee next week im gonna spill the tray on the carpet with all this talk about it...........


I really believe one should use what works best for them. That's why I am not busting balls on anyone....Well except JP.

I don't use a bucket 'cause it works better or is more comfortable, I use it so I don't have to fill it so often.

Everytime you dump from a bucket to another container you waste time and increase the chances of making a mess. 

You stop. Bring the tray to othe bucket or the bucket to the tray. You dump it in. Then you wipe the lip with a brush to keep it from dripping down the side of the can. Put the brush back. Grab the tray and carry it back to the work area.

In that time, I have painted half of an eight foot high 12 foot long wall. And will not have to stop once while painting an entire room. (with an 18" roller)

But, that is in my world, which is kinda weird anyway.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

No holes no problem.. I personally do not care for new screens and try and get them loaded up as quick as possible.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

bikerboy said:


> I really believe one should use what works best for them. That's why I am not busting balls on anyone....Well except JP.
> 
> I don't use a bucket 'cause it works better or is more comfortable, I use it so I don't have to fill it so often.
> 
> ...


But what if you only bought a gallon of paint? Your story falls down then. I use an orange roller bucket, but I still pour from a gallon to the bucket. Usually use the gallon to cut out of, but not always. A second saved is not always a second earned in redo.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> No holes no problem.. I personally do not care for new screens and try and get them loaded up as quick as possible.


If I did use a bucket I would also want a screen without diamonds. I would want it to be shaped like a roller pan with no holes in it. 

That roller grid looks like it works ok to load paint, but how long does it take you to clean it in a bathtub? And how long does it take you to clean out the 5 you were using to roll with?

If you are working with 4 colors, do you have to clean a bucket and a screen even once for a new color to go into? If so that is a ton of wasted time. If you have a different screen and bucket for each color, do you have to clean each of those setups when you are done? If so that is a ton of wasted time.

10 seconds per room to refill a paint tray is nothing. This whole time it takes for refilling thing is a weak argument for all of you who are promoting it.


I never have to clean a pan, or a 5. And it takes me 10 seconds per room to refill my tray.

Buckets are easier to move. That is true. And it makes less dangerous to carry around that is true. 

But having to completely invert the roller pole each time you load it sucks though, especially when you are using a long extension pole.

Buckets and trays both have advantages and disadvantages.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

bikerboy said:


> You stop. Bring the tray to othe bucket or the bucket to the tray. You dump it in. Then you wipe the lip with a brush to keep it from dripping down the side of the can. Put the brush back. Grab the tray and carry it back to the work area.


It takes me 10 seconds to reload a paint tray, and I can paint two walls, 10 seconds to reload the paint try, then paint two walls.

10 seconds per room.

People are saving 10 seconds per room by not having to stop to load a paint tray.

How long does it take to clean a roller grid in the bathtub?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> How long does it take to clean a roller grid in the bathtub?


1. I clean everything at home slop sink in my ara set aside for work stuff

2. as you can tell by my screen I don't clean them

you get fired if you clean anything at a clients home on my job.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> 1. I clean everything at home slop sink in my ara set aside for work stuff


Do you clean out your fives? That takes time. Do you have enough "loaded" paint screens to paint 4 colors in a house?



MAK-Deco said:


> you get fired if you clean anything at a clients home on my job.


That is just Ego. Ego doesn't help you keep good journeyman painters. Some excellent painter cleans his brush out at the end of the day and you fire him for it? You make it sound like he was getting drunk on the job, or makeing sexual comments to the lady of the house or something.

I have worked for several high end contractors in high profile clients homes. There was never a rule where you get fired for cleaning things in the owners house. They usually have a washout sink any way.

If that is your preference that is fine, but it is not a cosmic truth. It's YOUR truth. There is a difference.

Besides what about remodels? No one is living there. Your employees can't wash their brushes out?

You aren't one of those painters that expects his guys to take their brushes home and clean them there are you?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> Do you clean out your fives? That takes time. Do you have enough "loaded" paint screens to paint 4 colors in a house?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You wouldn't believe how many loaded screens I have!

Buckets nope they dry and get peeled or I use bucket liners

when it comes to cleaning I clean all brushes out at my place. I do not have a large crew by the way. Its a rule and its known prior to someone working for me, yes new construction or no one living there they I wil make an exception if it has to be done.. More than likely I have stash of brushes so a new can be used. 

Sorry I respect my clients property and do see a reason why I would have to wash out a brush in someones sink. I have heard horror stories of previous guys clean everything out in bath tubs, kitchen sinks, you name it..


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

MAK-Deco said:


> Sorry I respect my clients property and do see a reason why I would have to wash out a brush in someones sink. I have heard horror stories of previous guys clean everything out in bath tubs, kitchen sinks, you name it..


Fair enough.

I have a two gallon bucket with a wire brush and and 4x10 inch piece of masonite.

My brushes get cleaned in the two gallon bucket. The masonite goes on top of the bucket and the wire brush scrapes against the masonite far away from the sinks surface.

I just use the washout sink or bathtub for fresh water.

When I have to use a bathtub, I am near a toilet and the water from cleaning brushes goes down the toilet.

I don't see any problem as long as I walk out of there with the sink or bathtub with zero paint or paint water in them.

Of course I would never use a jacuzzi tub. Not because it would make a difference, but because that is usually the wife's sanctuary where she takes bubble baths. Besides the homes with really nice tubs always have washout sinks.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> But what if you only bought a gallon of paint? Your story falls down then. I use an orange roller bucket, but I still pour from a gallon to the bucket. Usually use the gallon to cut out of, but not always. A second saved is not always a second earned in redo.


Whoa! I am playing nice for a change. Am not saying anybody else's way does not work. Just stating what I prefer and why.

Yes I do have a couple of trays, and yes in that scenerio I may use them. 

But I also have 4-5 screens on the truck and several empty fives with lids. Am just as likely to use them. 

Like lots of people here, we go armed with many tools, but prefer to use a few.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

If the HO has a "slop" basin I will wash my stuff there, if not I take it home. I have at least 10 five gallon buckets that are ready when I need them, most of them you can allow the latex to dry and it peels right off. My roller screens need to stay clean~ish because I rely on the sharp edge of the diamonds to separate the nap on my roller cover and to regulate the amount of paint that is on the cover. My Purdy Colossus is not like any other roller, it has a yarn like composition instead of a woven nap that resembles cotton candy.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

WisePainter said:


> If the HO has a "slop" basin I will wash my stuff there, if not I take it home. I have at least 10 five gallon buckets that are ready when I need them, most of them you can allow the latex to dry and it peels right off. My roller screens need to stay clean~ish because I rely on the sharp edge of the diamonds to separate the nap on my roller cover and to regulate the amount of paint that is on the cover. My Purdy Colossus is not like any other roller, it has a yarn like composition instead of a woven nap that resembles cotton candy.



Wooster just came out with the Cirrus sleeve which I believe is to be a Colossus knock off.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

googling now.


High-capacity, white polyamide yarn fabric with a green stripe, yup, that is the wonder material that every painter needs to try.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

And then there are the nuts who like to burn the paint off the grids


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

I use trays and 5's...and I know some will think this is a DIY thing...but I love these liners...used one today to roll ceilings..built in grid..kinda pricey, but I either peel em out or wash (usually in clients tub)


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Slingah said:


> I use trays and 5's...and I know some will think this is a DIY thing...but I love these liners...used one today to roll ceilings..built in grid..kinda pricey, but I either peel em out or wash (usually in clients tub)



I use liners for my fives when I am in short supply of them. I usually keep a few in the truck to be safe


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

bikerboy said:


> With all your infinite wisdom you should be able to answer that. It is to keep a vast quantity of paint from dripping off and leaving a trail from the bucket to the wall.
> 
> I mean, c'mon....you are really kidding....right?


No I'm serious. That whole (hole) idea is downright stupid. Think about it. Lets see here let me load this sucker and then roll it over a surface so the paint comes off. huh Why not a solid ramp with ribbing something that keep paint on the roller.


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Last Craftsman said:


> It takes me 10 seconds to reload a paint tray, and I can paint two walls, 10 seconds to reload the paint try, then paint two walls.
> 
> 10 seconds per room.
> 
> ...


Good point. I never thought loading a pan cut into my day. I waste more time watching paint dry.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Why not a solid ramp with ribbing something that keep paint on the roller.


see liner in my post...it has a solid ramp with small bumps built into it..they make smaller ones too for a pot...great for whizz rollers...no one uses these??


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## MDRocket (Feb 3, 2009)

I used a tray and a 12 inch roller today and didnt spill anything on the hardwood. I also used there hose and spun my roller in there grass, and the tray also. 

I take a 5 to every job empty if they have water full if they dont and clean my brushes at the job. If they have a slop sink I have clean my tools there......but some homes I cant take the chance on anything going wrong.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

MD said:


> but some homes I cant take the chance on anything going wrong.


See, thats just simple professionalism:thumbsup:


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> Here is my thinking on those paint screens, grids used with 5's.
> 
> The idea of taking a heavy load of paint from a bucket and then rolling in on the screen so the paint comes back off through the holes makes no sense to me.
> 
> ...


Have you guys seen the video of JP rolling a wall with a 18" in under 2 minutes. The roller was so loaded you can hear the paint slapping off the wall. I can only imagine the thick sloppy orange peel and the skid marks from dragging the roller. 

Stick to products JP. Your professioanl advice is far from professional.

You must be getting a ton of hits on your site from here. It is the only logical explanation for all your ridiculous posts.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Have you guys seen the video of JP rolling a wall with a 18" in under 2 minutes. The roller was so loaded you can hear the paint slapping off the wall. I can only imagine the thick sloppy orange peel and the skid marks from dragging the roller. 

AND not getting a speck of paint either on him or the new hardwood floor with no drops.Truely amazing.:yes::laughing:


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> No I'm serious. That whole (hole) idea is downright stupid. Think about it. Lets see here let me load this sucker and then roll it over a surface so the paint comes off. huh Why not a solid ramp with ribbing something that keep paint on the roller.


I suppose you pull a brush straight out of the bucket and go right to the wall? 

I tap the excess out on the inside. It is the same principle. No mystery or magic. Ramps or holes, the same thing is accomplished

Like shoestrings or velcro straps. (another thread of useless argument?)


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## jordanski (Feb 5, 2009)

*interior rolling, my two cents...*

hey guys,

I mostly do the T&M, weeks-of-prep & carpentry (often stripping to bare wood) type ext. restoration repaint jobs... (two part epoxy sill restoration, stucco restoration, new trim carpentry, etc. etc.) working alone I get pretty bored with straightforward interior repaints - and I usually get underbid as it's easier for a lot of HOs to trust a cheapy guy with banging out boxes of drywall rather than caring for 20k in cedar siding in a town that's in a rainforest (seattle)... so I land 80-90% of exterior bids and my int. repaints are fewer and farther between, usually part of a remodel or a restore-the-plaster & repaint type job... I don't do any new construction or big commercial stuff...

Curious if some of you yoda types think I'm crazy:

(oh yeah, I mostly work on vintage homes so 90% plaster or textured sheetrock, not a lot of smoothwall...)

Stained trim: lots of phillipine mahogany around here in the war era and 50s houses, nicer stuff (fir, etc.) in the older homes, the cheapo mahogany has porous little holes in the stock (careful) so you can't get paint on it or you'll be sponging and using a dental pick to get it off, 

so for stained rooms: ceiling with a 9", then I use a 9" with the green wooster and deep pan to fill the main wall and use a 6" cat's paw (weenie roller) with the thick ext. perlon nap that fully covers the head for running up close to door/window casings and small areas of plaster above doors etc. you squeeze down on the cat's paw for perfect texture and with the slop from the end tip you can cut in the casings, and for small areas (under stairs etc.) you don't have to back roll like with the 9", for stained baseboard I tape with wide tape sticking out parallel to the floor and get close with the 9" and cut in... seems the most logical way (I don't think the cat's paw would work so good on true smoothwall tho).

I think it's a pretty innovative way to cut in around stain, maybe you guys think it's slow? I usually bang out around casings first & cut in, run the cat's paw on both sides of inside wall corners, then quickly fill and backroll the main wall with the 9" & cut in above the baseboard. then same thing on adjacent wall.... butyl coated or pvc drops over carpet, if the hardwood floor is solid perfect (swedish finish) I'll use regular canvas drops for the ceiling and no drops at all for the walls (wetsponge or rag any tiny specks).... now that's latex, pvc drops for all oil primers...

painted trim: ceilings with a 9", then trim first except top edge of baseboard, brush finish with slop brushed out onto walls, fill walls with 9" and cat's paw for tiny areas, cut in, then cut in top edge of baseboard.

I know my work is absolute top notch but I rarely get to see anyone else who knows their **** in action, so sometimes I think I'm slow. It's hard to say as I'm self-taught... I know cheap is faster but always a different end product. 

Ps. I own two high end sprayers and still paint exteriors by hand, so now you know I'm crazy!:whistling2:

your thoughts, jedi council? 

really dig the site, great way to network knowledge, it seems we do things rather differently in different regions, my work seems to be most similar to the guys in boston and S.F. areas, same old fancy houses with the new hardi-plank, blow-and-go rough cedar crap houses out in the suburbs. (if you do a lot of painting on new development houses, no disrespect, I'm also a carpenter and I think they're sloppy and built out of greed, that's all)

PS. careful washing your brushes onsite in older houses, if the enamel on those old sinks or tubs is worn at all take the brushes home, the tint will stain worn enamel permanently! 
figured that out long ago on a sink that was getting demoed, thank goodness, same goes for sinks sitting on old tile installations, as the grout is probably 20 years overdue for a re-seal... stainless and acrylic sinks are no problem for washing out latex. I don't use wire brushes unless I'm doing exteriors and in the sun, interior brushes get washed before the paint sets... if I can't do that I wrap in plastic bag wash at home and use multiple cutters...


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Welcome Jordan!! I like to see some pics of those old homes. The art of refurbishing old homes is not for the faint of heart.


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## jordanski (Feb 5, 2009)

*howdy,*



NEPS.US said:


> Welcome Jordan!! I like to see some pics of those old homes. The art of refurbishing old homes is not for the faint of heart.


thanks dude, actually been on here for a year or so... I post more often on contractortalk as the work I do is more multi-trade... started out as a painter though, still do quite a lot and have the old paint chips in my blood.

(unfortunately that is probably a literal statement)

I still think we need a sticky just for issues with stripping and restoring pre-war era houses, that is a trade in itself...

I'm gonna get on that.
jordan

ps. congrats on the super bowl, that ben can sure move in the pocket


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## jordanski (Feb 5, 2009)

*...*

good on a motorcycle too....:thumbup:
J


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

jordanski said:


> ps. congrats on the super bowl, that ben can sure move in the pocket


whoa whoa whoa ....I hate the Steelers. Boston guy here! I just like to piss the ****'s from PA around here.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

jordanski said:


> I'll use regular canvas drops for the ceiling and no drops at all for the walls (wetsponge or rag any tiny specks).... now that's latex, pvc drops for all oil primers...


If you are going to sponge the specks off the floor, you might as well throw a runner under there. It doesn't take long to drag it along, less time then looking for specks.

And the difference is you KNOW there are no specks. Even if it took the same amount of time, or even if it took MORE time to use a runner, logistically it's better because there is no mystery, or randomness involved in the procedure.


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