# Masking newly finish hardwood floors (tape adhesion strength)



## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

Painting an apartment with newly finished hardwood floors. I checked it out today and plan on starting Monday. My plan is to tape and mask (with masker) the floor/baseboard and then lay rosin paper in the foot traffic areas (Rooms will be covered in tarps as well. 

I like the 3M Edge Lock tape and will be using that for other masking. I wanted to use that for the baseboard/floor masking but I'm wondering if it could potentially effect the floor finish, since the masking will be there till the job is finished.

It's just me working in the apartment so it's going to take me a few days to finish it. 

I just don't want any issues with the tape effecting the floor...


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

If you want to be 100% certain, find out the product that was used. Ask the floor guy what you're planning. He should know, or call the manufacturer of the flooring product used. Without knowing, the only truly safe bet I know is yellow frog, but you might be able to use something with higher adhesion after you get more info on flooring products/process used. 

Just FYI, I personally have never had any problems with red rosin paper, but several others on this forum have cautioned against it in a situation like yours. If the walls are so high extension ladders are needed, might consider using Ram Board on at least high-traffic areas.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> If you want to be 100% certain, find out the product that was used. Ask the floor guy what you're planning. He should know, or call the manufacturer of the flooring product used. Without knowing, the only truly safe bet I know is yellow frog, but you might be able to use something with higher adhesion after you get more info on flooring products/process used.
> 
> Just FYI, I personally have never had any problems with red rosin paper, but several others on this forum have cautioned against it in a situation like yours. If the walls are so high extension ladders are needed, might consider using Ram Board on at least high-traffic areas.


Aye! Ram board looks like the winner.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

beedoola said:


> Painting an apartment with newly finished hardwood floors. I checked it out today and plan on starting Monday. My plan is to tape and mask (with masker) the floor/baseboard and then lay rosin paper in the foot traffic areas (Rooms will be covered in tarps as well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



It's risky no matter how you do it. What kind of 3M edge lock? I wouldn't try the the multi surface (2093), the delicate (2080) might be ok but yellow Frog would be better. Though I've seen even it damage new floors. 

What do you mean by baseboard/floor? Are you masking the top of the base or the bottom? If you can figure out a way to stick the tape to the base only that would be the safest bet. 

Whatever you use when it's time to pull it up start slow. If it looks like any finish is coming up, stop and get a heat gun. Warm the tape slightly right before pulling and it will likely come up clean. That trick has saved my arse several times.


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## LA Painter (Jul 28, 2009)

How I do newly refinished floors:
-Cover entire floor with rosin.
-Tape the rosin to the base (not the floor) with blue tape.
-Tape the rosin seams (not the floor) with white tape.
-Cover traffic areas with ram board & white tape.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Use the brown paper instead of red rosin. If you get the red rosin wet it may bleed and leave stains. Lesson learned from past experience.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

Jmayspaint said:


> It's risky no matter how you do it. What kind of 3M edge lock? I wouldn't try the the multi surface (2093), the delicate (2080) might be ok but yellow Frog would be better. Though I've seen even it damage new floors.
> 
> * What do you mean by baseboard/floor?* Are you masking the top of the base or the bottom? If you can figure out a way to stick the tape to the base only that would be the safest bet.
> 
> Whatever you use when it's time to pull it up start slow. If it looks like any finish is coming up, stop and get a heat gun. Warm the tape slightly right before pulling and it will likely come up clean. That trick has saved my arse several times.


I need to paint the baseboard as well, so I meant having the tape edge meet/go under, the baseboard so the floor will be protected when I paint the baseboard. I'd also be using my cut in blade for additional protection.



Lambrecht said:


> Use the brown paper instead of red rosin. If you get the red rosin wet it may bleed and leave stains. Lesson learned from past experience.


Yeah, that is why it seems like RAM board is a better approach.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Ramboard is much better. I never tape it to the floor cause there is no need. Just run it 1/4-1/2" from the base and tape seams only. Any splatter is caught by taping on top of base edge as usual. I find it easier to lay it out up side down, it always wants to curl up for awhile if not.
Just used it this week over new walnut floors


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Personally, I NEVER tape floors anymore. Don't ask me why.


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## jw129943 (Apr 3, 2014)

I would go with the Edgelock delicate surface. I've been using that a lot lately, in part because the regular Edgelock has pulled existing paint off the walls (I paint cabinets). The delicate surface still does a great job, without having me worry about pulling off finishes - whether it's hardwood floor stain, paint, etc...


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> If you want to be 100% certain, find out the product that was used. Ask the floor guy what you're planning. He should know, or call the manufacturer of the flooring product used. Without knowing, the only truly safe bet I know is yellow frog, but you might be able to use something with higher adhesion after you get more info on flooring products/process used. Just FYI, I personally have never had any problems with red rosin paper, but several others on this forum have cautioned against it in a situation like yours. If the walls are so high extension ladders are needed, might consider using Ram Board on at least high-traffic areas.


 Yes, I believe asking the floor guys is the best policy. Some of the newer, low-voc floor stains and finishes are very susceptible to tape damage. Old school Swedish finish can usually be taped without problems. 

Now if we could only convince floor guys to use tape on finished base and door trim before they stain........


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

You could try this:

http://www.shurtape.com/node/353

But the points are:

--All finish coatings need to adequately cure before you put tape on them.

--Tapes can be formulated with such gentle adhesive that they cease to be useful at adequately holding things in place or sealing an edge.

--All tapes have a limited time period before they should be removed.

These are some of the reasons painters forego tape when the situation is questionable.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

If there is enough room between the bottom of the baseboards and the floor (a big "if"), I have used the trick suggested by Gough. After papering the floor and taping the seams, I gently slide awning slats under the baseboard. The vertical slats that come with blinds that cover double sliding glass doors work great. They can be easily cut to any desired length with a pair of tin snips. They usually are quite snug and no taping of the baseboards or floor is necessary. I have quite a collection of slats from renovation jobs, so they were freebies. 

I always spread drop cloths over the paper as an added layer of protection. I have learned that paper can be easily torn by hasty ladder movements, so the drops are a must if you don't have RAM board. 

The use of this technique isn't always possible, obviously, but those slats have come in mighty handy.


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

chrisn said:


> Personally, I NEVER tape floors anymore. Don't ask me why.


So you put the tape on the base? What do you do when it is time to paint the base, how do you protect the floor?

I need to sand/prep the base/all the trim first, before painting the ceiling/walls. I want to ensure the floor is protected.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Yes, I believe asking the floor guys is the best policy. Some of the newer, low-voc floor stains and finishes are very susceptible to tape damage. Old school Swedish finish can usually be taped without problems.
> 
> Now if we could only convince floor guys to use tape on finished base and door trim before they stain........



I'm only allowed to thank you once, but unofficially, I'm thanking you twice


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> If there is enough room between the bottom of the baseboards and the floor (a big "if"), I have used the trick suggested by Gough. After papering the floor and taping the seams, I gently slide awning slats under the baseboard. The vertical slats that come with blinds that cover double sliding glass doors work great. They can be easily cut to any desired length with a pair of tin snips. They usually are quite snug and no taping of the baseboards or floor is necessary. I have quite a collection of slats from renovation jobs, so they were freebies.
> 
> I always spread drop cloths over the paper as an added layer of protection. I have learned that paper can be easily torn by hasty ladder movements, so the drops are a must if you don't have RAM board.
> 
> The use of this technique isn't always possible, obviously, but those slats have come in mighty handy.



I thought he only used those slats for carpet?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

beedoola said:


> So you put the tape on the base? What do you do when it is time to paint the base, how do you protect the floor?
> 
> I need to sand/prep the base/all the trim first, before painting the ceiling/walls. I want to ensure the floor is protected.


very carefully paint it free hand


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I thought he only used those slats for carpet?


Don't upset him. He's still healing from the separation with his Siamese twin. Just give him a sympathy thanks and move on.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I thought he only used those slats for carpet?


I really don't remember if he said that he only uses the slats over carpet. And I can't remember the title of the thread (helpful hints?). I can say that I've only been able to use the slat trick over wood on a couple occasions, and even then, there were some areas where the slats would not fit under the baseboard, so some taping was required. I would think good installation of baseboard would preclude the use of slats in most instances.

Thus, my suggestion probably isn't a very useful one. :icon_redface:


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> I really don't remember if he said that he only uses the slats over carpet. And I can't remember the title of the thread (helpful hints?). I can say that I've only been able to use the slat trick over wood on a couple occasions, and even then, there were some areas where the slats would not fit under the baseboard, so some taping was required. I would think good installation of baseboard would preclude the use of slats in most instances.
> 
> Thus, my suggestion probably isn't a very useful one. :icon_redface:



I thought it was good. I always thought Gough was talking about metal mini blind slats. I never even thought about using the vertical blind slats. 

You keep this up and you're gonna have to drop the, "semi", SPJ. Maybe you don't want the initials PJ cuz you associate em with your jammies. Maybe you're keeping your amateur status for Olympic eligibility. I dunno. In any event, it will be something to ponder further for sure.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

CApainter said:


> Don't upset him. He's still healing from the separation with his Siamese twin. Just give him a sympathy thanks and move on.



Can't believe he didn't even get to take it home. If I lugged a golf ball sized cyst around for half a year and finally got it removed, I'd take that sumbitch to the driving range and swing for the fences.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Hey,

I have to keep the SemiPro tag and here's why. I think I can rightfully consider myself as a Pro in terms of most applications, but when it comes to the business side of painting, well, I've got a lot to learn. Actually, I'm learning a lot from many of you. It is the failure to implement that is keeping me in the bush leagues. Yet, ever onward, endeavor to persevere, etc.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

SemiproJohn said:


> Hey,
> 
> I have to keep the SemiPro tag and here's why. I think I can rightfully consider myself as a Pro in terms of most applications, but when it comes to the business side of painting, well, I've got a lot to learn. Actually, I'm learning a lot from many of you. It is the failure to implement that is keeping me in the bush leagues. Yet, ever onward, endeavor to persevere, etc.


Give me a break. You're awesome!


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> Hey,
> 
> I have to keep the SemiPro tag and here's why. I think I can rightfully consider myself as a Pro in terms of most applications, but when it comes to the business side of painting, well, I've got a lot to learn. Actually, I'm learning a lot from many of you. It is the failure to implement that is keeping me in the bush leagues. Yet, ever onward, endeavor to persevere, etc.



Tell ya a Iil secret. Each one of us on the forum knows more than we do. Most, including you, know we could always improve if we just practiced what we preach, but hey, at least we don't hang wallpaper and sling glue all day long. 

(You're welcome Chrisn).


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Tell ya a Iil secret. Each one of us on the forum knows more than we do. Most, including you, know we could always improve if we just practiced what we preach, but hey, at least we don't hang wallpaper and sling glue all day long.
> 
> (You're welcome Chrisn).


Hey, I hang paper maybe once a month:icon_cry:


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## beedoola (May 18, 2015)

I ended up putting the ram board about 2'' from the base and use 3m edge lock (has a 60 day removal) with masking paper. Worked well, floors were protected and no issues when everything was removed.


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