# Vertical Plank Siding Smooth vs Rough Side



## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

So the home owner got her pine vertical plank siding, where one side is smooth and the other is rough. She just informed me that she wants the smooth side showing and not the rough. They are going with Superdeck solid oil stain. I informed her if that is the case I will have to rough sand the smooth side to take off the mill glaze. She said that shouldn't be necessary. Without getting into a "discussion" I told her I'd get a second and third opinion.

I asked her why the smooth, and she said the rough side weathers faster or more. I never heard this before and I would actually think the opposite but is there any truth to that, in your opinions. 

I plan on roller it on, and then brushing it.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I keep hearing about sanding off mill glaze on here, so I guess I can second that. She's nuts if she thinks the smooth side is gonna last longer though.


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## rosespainting (Mar 16, 2014)

you are going to need to clean and treat the wood with wood brightener first either way... If the smooth side is out, you will need to rough sand too, like you are already planing. years ago there was a chemical called mill glaze away. The closest thing to it now is wood brightener. 

I have not heard, or experienced one side or the other weathering faster or more. If it is being stained with a solid stain, I don't see the issue with weathering any way. The rough side will hold stain better and for longer than the smooth side, even when treated and sanded properly.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Your biggest mistake is the superdeck no matter what side you put out. Especially the oil based. It is by far the worst exterior stain on the market. Tons of sheen inconsistencies m, uneven absorption, and terrible color development. Go with an oil modified solid. Cabot has one that's real nice.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Do a test board or two on the opposite side. The inconsistencies happen real bad around knots especially on pine. I gave this brand too many chances from transparent all the way to the solid deck and dock. Learn from my mistakes. This stuff isn't worthy to be on a dog house.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Durability and longevity will be directly related to whether all sides are coated with something prior to installation to create dimensional stability. I have exact siding rough side out on my house. Have acrylic semi solid stain which still looks new after 4 years in New England. However, a thin mill system allows wood fibers to be more exposed and less encapsulated so the siding mildews badly in areas where profile is rougher. Constantly going around the house with pump garden sprayer with deck cleaner to kill it. Especially after a damp wet hot humid summer.


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## cardgunner (Feb 29, 2016)

jr.sr. painting said:


> Your biggest mistake is the superdeck no matter what side you put out. Especially the oil based. It is by far the worst exterior stain on the market. Tons of sheen inconsistencies m, uneven absorption, and terrible color development. Go with an oil modified solid. Cabot has one that's real nice.



I searched thru the forums for opinions on the Superdeck product and couldn't find anything damning. I'd rather they went with a BM product. I will pass on to them the knowledge I gained from your insight. Thank you


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Superdeck doesn't make an alkyd solid stain anymore, its 100% acrylic. Prime with 094 and topcoat with 640 solid acrylic or Superdeck (SW owned brand) equivalents. Since you have the luxury of having the boards prefinished all sides should be primed to seal the boards.



Smooth boards need 60-80 grit sanding, wood brightener will work too, before stain/paint unless she wants to sign a waiver


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Woodco said:


> I keep hearing about sanding off mill glaze on here, so I guess I can second that. She's nuts if she thinks the smooth side is gonna last longer though.



Its not just 'glaze' the wood pores need to be open that means sanding to a proper surface profile ~80 grit. I keep extra dimensional lumber in the back of my store for demo purposes. Typically I will divide it into thirds: Unsanded, 80 grit and 220 grit. Stained with SRD. I then invite customers who say sanding not necessary to fingernail test the board of course the SRD on the unsanded and 220 sides sits on the surface and forms a film so its easy to remove. Even transparent oils will not penetrate unless the prep is done end of story!


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Its not just 'glaze' the wood pores need to be open that means sanding to a proper surface profile ~80 grit. I keep extra dimensional lumber in the back of my store for demo purposes. Typically I will divide it into thirds: Unsanded, 80 grit and 220 grit. Stained with SRD. I then invite customers who say sanding not necessary to fingernail test the board of course the SRD on the unsanded and 220 sides sits on the surface and forms a film so its easy to remove. Even transparent oils will not penetrate unless the prep is done end of story!



Personally, I think you recommend WAY too course of grit to sand. Also, the reality is, 90% of painters arent going to sand new exterior wood, even if it is the proper way to do it. People dont want to pay for that. Oil base stains is supposed to penetrate whether its sanded or not. I agree, it would be better to give a sand, but reality dictates otherwise. However 80 grit is too much . Thats what you use to strip hardwood floors.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Woodco said:


> Personally, I think you recommend WAY too course of grit to sand. Also, the reality is, 90% of painters arent going to sand new exterior wood, even if it is the proper way to do it. People dont want to pay for that. Oil base stains is supposed to penetrate whether its sanded or not. I agree, it would be better to give a sand, but reality dictates otherwise. However 80 grit is too much . Thats what you use to strip hardwood floors.


Not only is 80 grit not 'coarse', I would consider it a medium grit', it is the grit recommended by *every* paint/stain manufacturer. There is no way you take some 80 grit to a board and tell me its too rough for exterior use. Absolutely not.



> Oil base stains is _supposed_ to penetrate whether its sanded or not


Go grab some new lumber and test it for your self then, plain as day even 'penetrating' oils will form a nice film and promptly fail. Can you guess what product are used most in my area? The cheap contractors here all use Messmers and do zero prep just slap a coat on and call it a day rain or shine. You have any idea how much stripping product and stain I move this time a year? In a round about way its a good deal for me!


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