# Will guardz seal in remant wallpaper glue?



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I need to do some drywall repair behind the HO's who removed the wallpaper and want to prime with guardz to seal up the drywall. If HO's remove wallpaper I usually oil prime to seal any minor residual glue, will Guardz seal that up as well?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

*Yes*


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

Gardz is about the single best thing to use in a situation like that, in my opinion. Pole sand the walls to remove excess dried glue and apply a coat of Gardz prior to your patching. Then follow with a coat of latex primer. Beautiful!


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Mantis said:


> Gardz is about the single best thing to use in a situation like that, in my opinion. Pole sand the walls to remove excess dried glue and apply a coat of Gardz prior to your patching. Then follow with a coat of latex primer. Beautiful!


:yes:


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Gardz is about the single best thing to use 

Not to be argumentative,:no: but I would bet anyone here who has used Draw Tite, would say it is better.:yes:

http://www.scotchpaint.com/drawtite.html


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Why does Guardz (since it has water in it) not reactivate the glue like paint does? I always thought that oil was needed so there was no water to reactivate the glue.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

chrisn said:


> Not to be argumentative,:no: but I would bet anyone here who has used Draw Tite, would say it is better.:yes:


True, but after going through the hassle of trying to get some shipped, I gave up and settled for Gardz. It will suffice. If Scotch could ever get their distribution lines set up, I'd be a DrawTite guy for sure.



DeanV said:


> Why does Guardz (since it has water in it) not reactivate the glue like paint does? I always thought that oil was needed so there was no water to reactivate the glue.


Gardz might reactivate the paste a bit, but the real trick to it is that when it dries, it wont re-wet, not even under itself. 

Click this link: http://www.squidoo.com/hangingwallpaper
Scroll down the page and there is a post there about the benefits of Gardz.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

PWG said:


> True, but after going through the hassle of trying to get some shipped, I gave up and settled for Gardz. It will suffice. If Scotch could ever get their distribution lines set up, I'd be a DrawTite guy for sure.


Did you talk to the D-T guy in Asheville? There is hope on the horizon. He said they are really working on it. 

Now as to covering residue paste with anything. Keep in mind "minor residual" paste. You want as little as possible remaining on the wall. I don't have a can in front of me, but if I remember there is language about it's ability to seal some amount of paste. 

BUT, as I posed to a Zinsser rep, wouldn't priming over residual paste - with the reactivating the paste on the wall - be just like throwing a hand full of paste in a bucket and then applying ? Knowing how Jack Ford preaches against "adulterating produts", wouldn't this phuck up the properties of Gardz and void all warrantees?? He couldn't answer and was obviously uncomfortable with the question.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

True, but after going through the hassle of trying to get some shipped, I gave up and settled for Gardz. It will suffice. If Scotch could ever get their distribution lines set up, I'd be a DrawTite guy for sure.

Yea,well, there is that, hopefully as Mr Bill says they will get their act together soon.


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## Stilts (Apr 14, 2008)

We tried drawtite twice, and then started using gardz because it was available from our supplier, and we didn't have to drive to the other side of town to pick it up. I have used gardz quite a bit, and have become a big fan, the guy that used the drawtite said he actually liked the gardz better, that it was easier to apply. That might be because when he first used drawtite he wasn't prepaired for how watery it was though.

All I know is that either one beats to heck the old method of bin or kilz over everything. I always had people insisting that was all you needed, then we'd spend days cutting out blisters.


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## funcolors (Nov 27, 2011)

*Link Update*

The link previously referenced to the Squidoo article has been updated. The new link is: 

http://www.squidoo.com/wallpaper_wallcoverings


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

We may have a new winner in the necro post derby:


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

What's more- Fun Colors reappeared!:thumbup:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

How does someone with 1 post "reappear"

Is this an alias?


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Maybe I know her from House Painter Forum- Shes a Dec- good to have around!


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Maybe I know her from House Painter Forum- Shes a Dec- good to have around!


I think she is from 

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/remodel/

but ,I have been known to be wrong


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Boy, you visit them all.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

I had a large commercial project that required a primer after stripping wallcovering. Some residual glue remained. According to the Zinnser Rep, the Guardz has a hydrophobic resin that is better at sealing glue than Odorless. We used several gallons and had no issue.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Since I posted this in 2008, we have only used Gardz after wallpaper removal and it has worked great. If you leave a lot of paste on the walls, who knows, but if you wash off as much as possible Gardz seems to be good insurance for any that may remain.


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

I have used Gardz often and it has always worked great. I even had a job where wallpaper was stuck on unprimed drywall. I couldn't remove it so I just cut out all of the loose areas, applied Gardz then skim coated the wall. It came out good and has been a few years with no problems. 
Some lower end houses and rentals I have worked on also had wallpaper over raw drywall. I would use Gardz, then maybe a quick skim then spay knockdown over it to hide the imperfections.


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## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

I've applied Gardz dozens of times to new drywall pre hanging and to removed as well and it always works great, Highly recommend this product.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Gardz- the wonderprimer! I keep finding new ways to use it.
But I was wondering if anyone has tried the SW primer that is supposed to be similar?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

It works.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

if you guys like Gardz, you'll LOVE Draw-Tite, the original Drywall Repair Coating.

The big Z uses the same resins as D-T but just at a lot lower ratio so as not to infringe on Scotch's patent. 

That large multi room papering job I did at the end of the summer had Behr Sh!t on the wall (yes, Virgina, a Behr does sh!t in new construction). I was afraid of the paste yanking it off the wall, so I primed with Gardz (D-T has ZERO distribution network). So far no call back.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

One time I was called in to do a paint estimate - lady was doing the wallpaper removal herself, and doing a good job at F'ing up her walls. But on the older veneer plastered walls, there was this clear film that was flaking off and looked like old saran wrap. I assumed it was a product like Guardz - am I wrong in this assumption? I've seen old glue on plaster walls, never looked like a failing clear latex coat. So everytime someone says they want the walls prepared for the wallpaper hanger - I just oil prime the things. There is a product from Zinsser specfically marketed for wallpapering, called Shieldz - and it's a oil primer basically. Why is everyone so down on oil primers? I've never seen a problem when walls were primed with coverstain prior to papering?

edit: Shieldz appears to be a water based product, but I remember an oil based Shieldz back in the day.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I do not think oil primer would be a good base for wallpaper. Too flat and porous to let the paper slide as needed. But then again, I have never installed wallpaper, so what do I know.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

DeanV said:


> I do not think oil primer would be a good base for wallpaper. Too flat and porous to let the paper slide as needed. But then again, I have never installed wallpaper, so what do I know.


But the oil primers I have used had the words "Enamel Undercoater" on the can, doesn't this enamel holdout ability when applying topcoats of trim paint also imply that it's not a porous product?


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Probably somewhat at least, but they usually are flat and I think having a little sheen would assist the paper in sliding into place. But once again DISCLAIMER: I do not install wallpaper. Where is Bill or PWG when we need them?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

flat oils were great for hanging on, before they castrated them with the VOC laws. Now they have little "tooth". They are too "hard" now. In the 70's and early 80's I hung many miles on flat oil. 

Oil Shieldz WAS a good product, along with oil Prep 'n' Size (Calif). But alas, they are no longer being made. I am not the only one who has had "issues" with the water based versions of Shieldz. I will not use it again.

Dan, when was that wall primed that you saw the "clear film that was flaking off" ? That does NOT sound like Gardz or Draw-Tite. BTW, both are 'relatively new' products.

There were other water based products that under the wrong circumstances would, during stripping, peel off like sunburn skin. The general consensus is that they were not allowed to dry thoroughly before installing.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

daArch said:


> flat oils were great for hanging on, before they castrated them with the VOC laws. Now they have little "tooth". They are too "hard" now. In the 70's and early 80's I hung many miles on flat oil.
> 
> Oil Shieldz WAS a good product, along with oil Prep 'n' Size (Calif). But alas, they are no longer being made. I am not the only one who has had "issues" with the water based versions of Shieldz. I will not use it again.
> 
> ...


The peeling skin probably predates guardz/draw-tite. It's just when I saw that clear skin peeling off - it just made me want to stay away from anything but an oil primer. That's sad that California prep 'n size has been discontinued. 

Bill is there anything wrong with sizing after oil priming? Or is just because now you are doing two steps instead of a single step guardz application?


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

plainpainter said:


> Bill is there anything wrong with sizing after oil priming? Or is just because now you are doing two steps instead of a single step guardz application?


Dan, please read this to understand what I think when i read the word "size"

Wall Size what's it all about

And no, there should not be an issue with applying a good wallpaper prep coat on top of an oil primer. I have applied my favorite prep coat on top of Fresh Start a few times.

ALSO, I do not "prefer" to install directly on Gardz. Too slick and slippery for me. My favorite surface is a coat of gardz/D-T and then a coat of Swing Wallpaper Prep Coat. but that's too time consuming. 

Swing has something like silica in it that gives a bit of tooth. I've been meaning to test gardz/DT at home with some Diatomaceous Earth thrown in. IMO, that would be the ultimate.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Good explanation Arch- I'm saving your link for when needed!


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I have another about Why Liner which is good to explain the benefits of liner.

I hate trying to convince a HO they need a liner as it looks like I am "upselling" and I will NOT tell them liner is NOT necessary. I ask them to read this and then the choice and RESPONSIBILITY is theirs.

I give anyone permission to use as they see fit AS LONG AS full credit is given to the author (me) and if printed, the url is included.

Links may be used to it, but as we all know if content is copied (even with full credit) both sites get SEO punished.


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