# Wicker cabinet doors



## Packard (May 2, 2018)

I've been asked to build a vanity with wicker panels on the cabinet doors. The cabinet and the door frames will be painted (Shamrock Green) using B-M Advance. 

Below is a picture of the type of door frame. I will have to assemble the door frame and cut the 5/16" x 5/16" groove that the reed spline fits into. 

The wicker will not have any finish. 

So do I paint the door first and then use my router to cut the groove? If so, how do I protect the paint from scratches?

Or do I spray the finish after cutting the groove? If so, how do I keep the groove free from paint? Or do I just clean up the groove after painting? If so, how do I do this?

I will be spraying using HVLP spray equipment.

Below is a photo of the type of wicker, the reed spline, and the door frame. Mine will be similar except it will be painted. 

I may try to do the wicker myself. Depending on what the furniture restorer quotes as a price for doing this work. There are just two panels to do.


----------



## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Having never done it, all I can do is spitball. I think I'd be likely to spray a couple of light coats. Then bluetape the surface that gets the groove to protect the paint. Cut the groove. Remove tape. Lightly sand and whatever if you did any scratching up. Then I'd spray one more light coat. I think I'd actually want the paint in the grooves for whatever ends up showing around the wicker bead. 

If it's a big enough $$ job to cover the extra t&m, I'd also start with a test piece or two just to make sure.


----------



## Packard (May 2, 2018)

I have not priced this out yet. I am going to try one for my own use to see if there are any issues with the paint and to see if I can do the caning work myself. I am also going to get the cost from the antique restoration shop for the caning (they mostly restore seat bottoms). It is a different application, but the same process. 

I've been looking at some online videos and it does not appear to be that difficult. I think I can do this on my own, but I will have a fall back position by pricing it as though I was buying the service.


----------



## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

You could cut the groove and use window screen spline in it and then spray to keep paint out of if.


----------



## Packard (May 2, 2018)

I thought of that or twine or just some folded release paper. My concern was the appearance of the edges of the groove when I remove the masking product. 

I am going to try Joe67's suggestion. I will prime and paint the "door" minus the wicker. After it has cured I will apply some low tack tape to protect the surface. I only need to have the door raised above the table. I don't have to cover the entire surface. 

After I have routed the groove I will apply a light coating to give the door a fully finished appearance. 

I might have to do some fine touch-ups. The process of installing the wicker involves pounding the reed into the groove using wooden wedges and a mallet. It also requires that a sharp blade be used to trim the excess. Both processes risk the finish. 

It really sounds like I would have to do the wicker myself. Otherwise, I will be blaming the old guy at the antique restoration place for any and all scratches and dents. 

I'm making the door this week and I will order the supplies and tools and give it the "old college try". 

The tools are minimal. Wooden wedges (12 pieces @ 50¢ each), a dead blow hammer (which I have), a sharp utility knife (which I have), heavy-duty shears (which I have).

It really sounds like I have a total of $6.00 in tools and about $30.00 in wicker and reed. I think it is worth a try. (It's not scaring me off, in any event.)


----------



## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Packard said:


> [edited stuff out]...
> 
> It really sounds like I would have to do the wicker myself. Otherwise, I will be blaming the old guy at the antique restoration place for any and all scratches and dents.
> 
> [edited stuff out]...


Either that or maybe the old guy already has the "touch" required to not mar the surface. Worth a thought.


----------



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Paint after your carpentry. 5/1000" of paint is not going to affect your "groove". Although, if this is "New Stock", you may consider a different product. Advance mars pretty easily in the darker tones as do most of the 1k products. Not to mention, it doesn't spray well in hvlp.


----------



## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

And Advance in deep colors will take awhile to dry hard. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I like the window (or screen) spline idea. Cheap, easy to apply it, then toss it when done. Any place where bare wood shows through can be touched up.


----------

