# Advice on trim setup



## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

Hi, we did the set up today for the painting and staining of 400 pieces of trim. I know we have a lot of pros here who do this kind of job on a regular basis and want make sure my set up will be efficient. Do you have any advice?
We will be using the finishpro AAA 395 for the paint (1 coat of Aura Matte red) but I'm not sure for the stain. We did the sample for the client with a brush to replicate the grain of the wood (we use Minwax Stain) and it was accepted. I'm not sure if it will give the same effect with the sprayer.
Another question (maybe for Scott) : What pressure should I use for paint and stain? Should I reduce the pressure. Tip size?
We had a painter who was mastering the machine that I had to let go before christmas and I want to make sure the other painters will do the right thing!
Thanks
Nick


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

One word....."Vermont" :thumbsup: He does a ton of stuff like that :yes: Or Neps too


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

BTW how can I attach a picture from dropbox directly in the thread?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Hi, we did the set up today for the painting and staining of 400 pieces of trim. I know we have a lot of pros here who do this kind of job on a regular basis and want make sure my set up will be efficient. Do you have any advice?
> We will be using the finishpro AAA 395 for the paint (1 coat of Aura Matte red) but I'm not sure for the stain. We did the sample for the client with a brush to replicate the grain of the wood (we use Minwax Stain) and it was accepted. I'm not sure if it will give the same effect with the sprayer.
> Another question (maybe for Scott) : What pressure should I use for paint and stain? Should I reduce the pressure. Tip size?
> We had a painter who was mastering the machine that I had to let go before christmas and I want to make sure the other painters will do the right thing!
> ...


Nick

With Aura in a deep base, you will probably be running the 395 at about 1000-1200 fluid and 30 air. This is ballpark, based on your personal habits. We always strain and slick it up a little for the sprayer.

I wouldn't do the minwax penetrating stain that way, if it were me. It can be done, but its a bit more of a crapshow than I would want to take on. I would either hvlp that or brush/wipe. Not sure how much quantity you are dealing with on that, but thats how I would do it. 

If you get into this prefinishing stuff, let me know and I will send you the details of our newly designed shop Frankenstein racks, first upgrade since '05.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I have never put stain over latex so I'm of no help but I do have a question? Even though it's a matte finish and more absorbant than eggshell or s/g does'nt the oil stain fish eye and bead up? When you brush or wipe it do you have to do it more than once and is it blotchy and streaky? I notice the trim has a profile and that would hide some inconsistencies I suppose. I have not used an air assist airless nor any aura so have no idea how they wokk together. I do set up my spray area in a similar way. There is never enough room.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

I would very much like to see before,during and after photo's.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

kmp said:


> I have never put stain over latex so I'm of no help but I do have a question? Even though it's a matte finish and more absorbant than eggshell or s/g does'nt the oil stain fish eye and bead up? When you brush or wipe it do you have to do it more than once and is it blotchy and streaky? I notice the trim has a profile and that would hide some inconsistencies I suppose. I have not used an air assist airless nor any aura so have no idea how they wokk together. I do set up my spray area in a similar way. There is never enough room.


Yes, it does fisheye and darker streak, but the client loves it! It look more natural to him. It's not that bad, I'll post pictures.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

vermontpainter said:


> Nick
> 
> With Aura in a deep base, you will probably be running the 395 at about 1000-1200 fluid and 30 air. This is ballpark, based on your personal habits. We always strain and slick it up a little for the sprayer.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot.
Another question, how do you wrap them for the delevery to the client, to protect the finish?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

The Aura will block if you rush it. I usually stack trim face to face 6 to 8 pcs and wrap. What clear are you using over the minwax?

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Thanks a lot.
> Another question, how do you wrap them for the delevery to the client, to protect the finish?


We stack pieces face to face, with a piece of Sill Seal in between. Not sure what they call that in Canajun, but it's rolls of foam, about six inches wide, that goes between the sill and the foundation. We find it very handy for protecting painted/finished materials for transport. We typically stack about 8-10 sticks like that, then wrap the whole stack with shrink-wrap.

Here's a link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_13281-46086-108957_0__?productId=3363032


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Gough said:


> We stack pieces face to face, with a piece of Sill Seal in between. Not sure what they call that in Canajun, but it's rolls of foam, about six inches wide, that goes between the sill and the foundation. We find it very handy for protecting painted/finished materials for transport. We typically stack about 8-10 sticks like that, then wrap the whole stack with shrink-wrap.
> 
> Here's a link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_13281-46086-108957_0__?productId=3363032


We call it sill gasket. I use it or laminate floor underlay as well. Usually trim is getting another coat.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> We call it sill gasket. I use it or laminate floor underlay as well. Usually trim is getting another coat.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


Thanks. It's always an adventure when I go to the lumberyard in Canada and ask for some product. I get more than the usual number of strange looks.

Our painted trim gets at least one more coat, while stained/varnished trim may be ready to go, depending on the skill of the trim carpenters. If they're good and use fine-gauge pinners, all we may need to do is fill holes. Problem is, we could rarely count on that


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Gough said:


> Thanks. It's always an adventure when I go to the lumberyard in Canada and ask for some product. I get more than the usual number of strange looks.


You get strange looks because they employ idiots who have no interest in customer service let alone learning what they sell!

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> You get strange looks because they employ idiots who have no interest in customer service let alone learning what they sell!
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


They just have all of these funny names for things. I can't even remember what they call OSB, but I do remember spending some time trying to buy some gutter for the cottage before one of the old guys chimed in that I needed "eavestroughs".

EDIT: They all called OSB "Aspenite", which I gather is a trade name.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

OSB is OSB. Gutters should've been fairly obvious.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Nice hijack. Sorry Nick.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Nice hijack. Sorry Nick.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


I've been taking lessons from Steve. How'd I do? 

Also sorry, Nick.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

ROOMINADAY said:


> The Aura will block if you rush it. I usually stack trim face to face 6 to 8 pcs and wrap. What clear are you using over the minwax?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Paint Talk


No clear, just the minwax give it enough sheen since it doesn't penetrate the wood.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

Gough said:


> We stack pieces face to face, with a piece of Sill Seal in between. Not sure what they call that in Canajun, but it's rolls of foam, about six inches wide, that goes between the sill and the foundation. We find it very handy for protecting painted/finished materials for transport. We typically stack about 8-10 sticks like that, then wrap the whole stack with shrink-wrap.
> 
> Here's a link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_13281-46086-108957_0__?productId=3363032


Smart!!! Thanks


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Gough said:


> They just have all of these funny names for things. I can't even remember what they call OSB, but I do remember spending some time trying to buy some gutter for the cottage before one of the old guys chimed in that I needed "eavestroughs".
> 
> EDIT: They all called OSB "Aspenite", which I gather is a trade name.


 Sounds like osb can be an sob...


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## Repaint Florida (May 31, 2012)

Last year we painted 15,000 door for a large new hotel, we painted in a warehouse then the next day loaded them on a pallet with wax paper between and it worked great. Never had a issue with anything sticking as long as the wax paper was used


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Why use stain over the aura to imitate grain? Why not use a glazing liquid, add some flowtrol to extend the open time then add universal tints to get the desired grain color. This way you are using all waterborne. 

I could be completely wrong with what you are trying to do.... But this is what i got out of it.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

TrueColors said:


> Why use stain over the aura to imitate grain? Why not use a glazing liquid, add some flowtrol to extend the open time then add universal tints to get the desired grain color. This way you are using all waterborne.
> 
> I could be completely wrong with what you are trying to do.... But this is what i got out of it.


Might worked better, I dont know. We did some test with a bunch of products and that is what the client approved. Will have to test your technique next time. Waterborne would be easier.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

mudbone said:


> Sounds like osb can be an sob...


And if it gets near water, it becomes a sop....


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Might worked better, I dont know. We did some test with a bunch of products and that is what the client approved. Will have to test your technique next time. Waterborne would be easier.


Will the stain fully set and cure? I feel you would need to lock it down with a clear.


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

Please post a pic of the sample, if you can.

Sounds like something I may be getting into and it boggles my mind what is compatible with what nowadays.

Are you going to do a clear after the stain phase?


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

A+HomeWork said:


> Please post a pic of the sample, if you can.
> 
> Sounds like something I may be getting into and it boggles my mind what is compatible with what nowadays.
> 
> Are you going to do a clear after the stain phase?


No clear needed in our case, the finish with the stain is close to a SGloss. It's very long to dry over paint ... 48-72h. The result is good , Ill try to post some pic.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Will the stain fully set and cure? I feel you would need to lock it down with a clear.


Maybe a clear could help, the stain is kind of soft and leaves finger marks easilly. For a residential I think I would of done it. But in our case it's perfect as it is.


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

We have a problem with the trims. We did 2 coat of aura + 1 or 2 coats of minwax stain in the shop. The result was good and it was dry before shipping. Once it was installed, we did a light coat of stain onsite. It's been 3 weeks and It's not dry yet. Any advice???


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

Gough said:


> They just have all of these funny names for things. I can't even remember what they call OSB, but I do remember spending some time trying to buy some gutter for the cottage before one of the old guys chimed in that I needed "eavestroughs".
> 
> EDIT: They all called OSB "Aspenite", which I gather is a trade name.


Grew up using both those "Canadian"names in way north North Dakota. Our Coke machines even took Canadian coins:yes: eh? 
ps. Sure do miss the McIntoshes Toffey. steve


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

MNpainter said:


> Grew up using both those "Canadian"names in way north North Dakota. Our Coke machines even took Canadian coins:yes: eh?
> ps. Sure do miss the McIntoshes Toffey. steve


Nobody calls OSB Aspenite anymore around here:no: a few hold-outs still refer to it as "chipboard". 50/50 split on gutter and eavestrough. Old fellas used to call gutters such because they were all wood, later, when aluminum and plastic (YUK) came in everyone started using the term eavestrough. :yes:


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Scotiadawg said:


> Nobody calls OSB Aspenite anymore around here:no: a few hold-outs still refer to it as "chipboard". 50/50 split on gutter and eavestrough. Old fellas used to call gutters such because they were all wood, later, when aluminum and plastic (YUK) came in everyone started using the term eavestrough. :yes:


In the part of Canada that I'm most used to (Manitoulin Is.), things don't seem to change very fast. They seem to be holding onto some of those things longer than much of the country. It was the late 1970s before they got rid of crank phones.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Gough said:


> In the part of Canada that I'm most used to (Manitoulin Is.), things don't seem to change very fast. They seem to be holding onto some of those things longer than much of the country. It was the late 1970s before they got rid of crank phones.


You had PHONES in the 70's ?!!!!! :notworthy:. wow, we were early 80's before we got phone lines on the mountain. and those were party lines with 8 or 9 homes on em !:yes:


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Scotiadawg said:


> You had PHONES in the 70's ?!!!!! :notworthy:. wow, we were early 80's before we got phone lines on the mountain. and those were party lines with 8 or 9 homes on em !:yes:


We didn't get one at the cottage until the '80s and that was a party line for a long time...which we shared with a few very talkative neighbors.

How about indoor, do you have indoor yet??


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

Gough said:


> We didn't get one at the cottage until the '80s and that was a party line for a long time...which we shared with a few very talkative neighbors.
> 
> How about indoor, do you have indoor yet??


Yeah, that came along a bit after the phone line. There are still some old folks up there that have the old shack out back tho. The first time I ever heard tell of a snowmobile was when they brought the phone line up there - now that caused some excitement !:yes: Guess i lived a pretty sheltered life, kinda like a monk


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> We have a problem with the trims. We did 2 coat of aura + 1 or 2 coats of minwax stain in the shop. The result was good and it was dry before shipping. Once it was installed, we did a light coat of stain onsite. It's been 3 weeks and It's not dry yet. Any advice???


Back the op please, I have a problem here


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Will the stain fully set and cure? I feel you would need to lock it down with a clear.


Would a clear stick and dry to an uncured surface? Oil or acrylic?


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm also thinking of using a heater with fans to cut down the humidity


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> I'm also thinking of using a heater with fans to cut down the humidity


Dehumidifier :thumbsup: We used them on all NC and problem areas. Need air movement and a change of air now and then as well.:yes:. There thats back to the OP, right ?


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

MonPeintre.ca said:


> Back the op please, I have a problem here


Cranky old frenchman !:whistling2:


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## PeintureLavergne.com (Dec 17, 2011)

Heat gun and a lot of patience, fans, heaters...
I think it will remain sticky though.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Scotiadawg said:


> Cranky old frenchman !:whistling2:


 You have to excuse his french!


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

mudbone said:


> You have to excuse his french!


naw we all know how those Frenchies are


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

If I understand what you did?

You painted a bunch of wood trim with Latex or Acrylic and then brushed an oil base stain over the top of that?

And you left the stain unwiped?

Oil based stain is a penetrator,it's made to penetrate wood,but then you have to wipe off the excess.

Leaving a bunch of excess stain on top of painted wood=FAILURE

Says so right on the cans of Minwax,Varathane,any stain even water base stains want you to wipe off the excess.

You seem to have a real problem on your hands,unless I misunderstood.

Good Luck


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## MonPeintre.ca (Feb 17, 2011)

propainterJ said:


> If I understand what you did?
> 
> You painted a bunch of wood trim with Latex or Acrylic and then brushed an oil base stain over the top of that?
> 
> ...


We did wipe the stain, but it seems that the final coat reactivated the first coat.
So we fixed the problem by applying one coat of oil satin varnish. It's all fixed now.


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