# Staining Interior oak trim and doors. Need help on product and process



## KBPaintingIowa (12 mo ago)

Hello all! I have been contracted to do a 5700 sq foot commerical ag building. It is completely finished inside. I will be putting repose gray on the walls and they are wanting Dark Walnut on the baseboards, door jams and doors. There are 28 doors so I was wanting to just set them up in a zig zag fashion and spray the stain, wipe and poly on. But I am having trouble finding what brand of stain can be sprayed at all or can be sprayed without any thinning needed. Also, I would like to use water based just due to cleanup, time to dry and health reasons. Am up to using oil based though if needed.

I need to complete the entire project in a week (next week!).

I have 2 airless Graco sprayers plus DeWalt powered handheld, was going to use Graco 308 or 310 FFLP tip if I spray.

Also what is your recommendation on process/steps?

Sand to 120
Stain
Wipe
Top coat (Poly)
Sand
Top coat

Or would you do a standing sealer before staining?

Thoughts on durability workability, etc on water based stain and water based topcoat?

What brands on stain to spray and if it should be wipe on what brand is your favorite?

Pro/cons of Wipe on/off?
Pro/cons of spray/wipe off?

Thanks in advance, so much appreciated!
KB


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

I've never used a stain that didn't have to be wiped afterwards. I'm sure there are some that are capable but I haven't personally used them. My first painting employer did a lot of high-end residential new construction, his method was always spraying and wiping.

Since it's oak you may not need to seal it, but I've always used benite before staining interior trim, although I believe there is a water-based alternative to benite now.

I used Zar brand water based stain on these windows followed by the water based polyurethane, it seemed to work just fine. That was a brush and wipe deal.


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## Mike2coat (Nov 12, 2013)

You should contact a commercial/industrial or factory coating sales rep to dial in a good system. Also buy or borrow an HVLP to use for your stain application.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I second the use of an HVLP for spraying in the stain - they are perfect for it. No thinning of the product is needed but you will need to do some wiping and maybe even some brushing to get it into all the nooks and crannies. Wear nitrile gloves.
You could use a wood conditioner but I have typically used that to prevent uneven absorption of the stain on softer woods like pine or fir. Oak shouldn’t need it but considering the overall poor quality of wood these days I’d practice on a few scraps first to make sure.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

5700 sq. ft in a week. Wow. I wonder if he got it done?


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