# mildew growth on glazeing



## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

Hello all,
5 years ago I refurbished a customers windows. removed all paint from sashes, sanded, A-100 oil primer, reglaze %100, 2 coats of SW exterior oil.
The window are all located under a porch ceiling and are never in direct sun. The home is also located lake front.
I am seeing probably 40% of the glazing with mildew.
Should this have been primed? There is no sign of paint failure, just the mildew.
I was led to believe that if the glazing had cured,( it had a couple of weeks, albeit without direct sun and the majority of those were rain days), that one could apply oil base paint straight to the glaze. 
The glaze is DAP 33. I mean, I would have used an oil primer anyway..
Did I do something wrong here?
Thanks for any input
Rand R


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## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

Oil base paint mildews outside quite a bit!
Kill the mildew, prime and two coat with 100% acrylic and the problem should be fixed.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Mildew is a moisture issue and over time there's really nothing a painter can do to prevent it from forming. It's the environment and combination of temp, humidity, ventilation, sun exposure etc....

Try killing it with something bleach/vinegar/high acid based and see what you have underneath. It may not need to be repainted. Of course, if the conditions in that specific spot don't change, it will just come back.


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## premierpainter (Apr 17, 2007)

Oil outside is going to attract mold. Like above said, prime and paint with latex


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

What they said.


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for your thoughts.
Priming and repainting isn't really an option. There are 436 4x4 paines if I remember correctly. Had I used an oil primer, wouldn't this have still occurred? Like I said, the paint looks fine still, so I don't have to get into repainting. Thank God.
So, Wood115, I like what I'm hearing from you. I believe it is mostly due to existing conditions (damp, no sun) and can be dealt with by bleaching. Do you recommend using vinegar also? 
I don't remember seeing this on the original oil coatings that still exist in this area. (NE PA)
Is today's oil formula a contributing factor?
Thanks for any more input
Rand R
Brothers' Painting


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## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

Mildex or bleach work. so does ammonia. It will return no matter what you do if it is always wet and no sunlight. Had the same project every year in Maitland FL. Owner lived on a lake and his yard was a botanical garden! Anything Mrs B planted bloomed! Pressure washed everything and did windows once a year until I moved!


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

can you still find mildex? Haver not seen it for a couple years since the original was bought by someone and I heard heard the product was dropped.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Paint Talk


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

randrohe said:


> I don't remember seeing this on the original oil coatings that still exist in this area. (NE PA)
> Is today's oil formula a contributing factor?
> Thanks for any more input
> Rand R
> Brothers' Painting


 Some oils have more linseed oil in them than others. The more linseed=the more mildew, has been my experience.


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

I would try bleach based stuff or (I think) white vinegar - you may want to double check that on the web. You want something highly acidic. I've even heard of lemon juice working.

I typically use Chlorox "4 in 1" with bleach. Spray a light coat on and walk away. Heavier stuff may need a few applications but I don't wipe it off or anything. Just let it eat. Brushing or wiping may spread the spores. 

When I run into this I typically just tell the HO that it's environmental and let them know that they will need to regularly apply something to keep the mildew at bay.


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## prototype66 (Mar 13, 2008)

sounds like Aura is an easy product to work with! Ill look into the extender too. At $60 a gallon I hope I bid it right! lol


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

I'll be addressing this in the spring.
Thanks for the feedback.
At least i can honestly tell the homeowner " that's just the facts, Jack"


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

No real fancy products needed. Bottle of household bleach, add 4-5 parts water. Spray on, wait 5 mins, rinse off. As long as it is not under the finish, you should have no problem.


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Since the mildew is only on the glazing it sounds like you have mildew under the coating to me. It is possible that the wet conditions could have delayed curing causing the oils to remain vulnerable to growth. I would say that if it was warm, mostly rain, and no sun, that it is likely that mildew may have begun before painting.

Washing as already mentioned is really going to be your only option IMO. If this is the case I would mix a heavier concentration of bleach to hopefully kill the mildew.


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## Charisb (Jun 9, 2009)

*Add a mildewcide in the future*

We make stains (oil- and water-based) for log and wood homes, as well as decks. We always recommend people add a mildewcide to the paint if they are in a particularly humid environment or get splash back in places. It will help control surface mold/mildew. (If it's under the stain or caulk, oh boy...that's another issue.) We like Stay Clean I/E (www.wwenvironmental.com). M-1 is another brand name. Costs about $30 for the amount needed in a 5 gal. bucket. Can be added to both water and oil-based paints.

And to answer another question: in the past, unmodified natural oils like linseed oil were indeed a food source for fungi and could contribute to mold growth. These days, with all the VOC regulations, you'll have a hard time coming across an unmodified oil. Most of them have been so chemically modified they are no longer recognizable as a food source for fungi.


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

Great information. Thank you all.
"Growth on the glazed parts only would seem to indicate that there was mildew present before the paint went on." OK, not what I wanted to hear, but considering the conditions when the work was performed, this is looking to be the reality.
Best case scenario, i have maintenance work.
At least I don't feel totally to blame on this one.
Now if I could just get out from under the 15 year warranty using SW Duration that I gave 8 years ago that's coming back to haunt me, life would be grand.( Different job, this one)
live and learn, if I live long enough....
Thanks again for the advice
Rand R
Brothers' Painting


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

randrohe said:


> Great information. Thank you all.
> "Growth on the glazed parts only would seem to indicate that there was mildew present before the paint went on." OK, not what I wanted to hear, but considering the conditions when the work was performed, this is looking to be the reality.
> Best case scenario, i have maintenance work.
> At least I don't feel totally to blame on this one.
> ...



15 year warranty???? Are you nuts?

Give it a bi-annual or even annual house wash and you should be good. Worst case to me would mean using a brush to agitate but but I would call your SW rep out before I serviced that kind of warranty.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Tonyg said:


> 15 year warranty???? Are you nuts?
> 
> Give it a bi-annual or even annual house wash and you should be good. Worst case to me would mean using a brush to agitate but but I would call your SW rep out before I serviced that kind of warranty.


 
friggin paint will not last that long:whistling2:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

15 year warranty? Maybe if the house was stored in a vacuum. And received no sunlight.

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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

15 year warranty? Can you paint my house?:yes:


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## randrohe (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah...15 years..I wanted to believe, I really did.
This wasn't on the house with the mildew issue, luckily.
I don't do warranties anymore. 
When I mentioned this to a SW rep and asked him what he thought re: Duration and it's claims, he said "that's the million dollar question", I knew I was in trouble.
Have yourself some great holidays..

Rand


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