# spot priming techniques



## drums4jay (Jul 26, 2010)

I think it would be both informative and interesting to hear about some different techniques to spot prime a drywall patch before painting. 

I always enjoy hearing of new/different ways to get something done because you never know when you'll find your new favorite way. 

We, Gray Painting (Cincinnati), have used a couple of different techniques over the past years...not sure if one is really better than the other. The most recent way we're doing it is to spot prime with a flat paint over the repair areas before 2 coating. We've also spot primed with the actual paint we'd be using before 2 coating, but it seems a flat seals it out a little better. Please post other effective techniques/ideas if you have any to share.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

If I'm painting the ceilings I'll spot prime the wall with the ceiling paint. If not I've been using gardz lately.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

I always spot prime with a flat paint, I use BM Superhide flat white maybe get it tinted if there is a lot of patches to prime.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Depends on the size / issue of the patch. For small patches almost like spackle and they aren't too large (size wise) not depth wise.

I use an aerosol white pigmented shellac from Sherwin. Tends to be pretty quick, fast drying, sandable, and I don't have to bust out the brush/roller or spray unit. Especially if the walls have been sprayed with no roller stipple, blends better.

Second option is to find some left over primer if it's a large job (wasatch for us usually), and load up the HVLP unit. I got a turbine unit so it's super easy for me to rock and roll, fits in my backseat easy. And the good thing is, it the HVLP helps it dry super fast and the clean out is easy with water so I can switch to the paint as soon as the spot dries, which could be 30 mins or less.


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

I use spray primer/sealer.Faster and easier for me.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Depending on the texture , job and placement of the patch . I will prime , texture and prime . 
I generally use ceiling paint kilz pro 110 or ultra Bm .


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I typically keep a gallon of Bulls Eye 1-2-3 handy for spot priming and I usually put it on with a mini-roller. I have started just leaving the patches un-primed if I'm using Regal Select and so far I haven't had an issue with flashing after the second coat.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I always found that "spot" priming not that much different from overall priming, the use of an actual primer/sealer being the most effective and having the least chance of flashing. 

The big Z's 1-2-3 is IMO an excellent choice as it does dry to a bit of sheen.


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## JCDrywallLtd. (Jan 8, 2013)

Hello Paint Talk, this is my virgin post!

I find spot priming a pain, because it throws you back a few steps in the wrong direction. I like to use my Wooster Pelican and mini roller, the mini roller and pelican are so quick to wash and cleanup! I only prime with CGC/USG First Coat, and spot paint x 2 with Ppg Manor Hall. Spot painting with 100% acrylic give the best results IMO. Im a diehard CGC First Coat guy and only supply Manor Hall Interior paints


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## sendit6 (Sep 6, 2008)

If it's a roller stipple on the wall, you need to prime with a roller. I've seen too many flat spots on walls where we've come in to paint and that is left over from the last time it was painted.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I have found that ot helps to prime with whatever sheen is presently on the wall. If you prime with 123 on a flat wall, it will be over sealed and flash. 
Opposite is also true.


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## ddemair (Nov 3, 2008)

It depends...

If the drywall patch is small enough, I will skim it with compound and then "prime" with whatever I'm using.

For larger areas, where bare drywall is exposed, I like to use an all purpose primer.

I find that compound is not as porous as drywall and doesn't require all that much sealing, but bare drywall will flash without a primer/sealer.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

BrushJockey said:


> I have found that ot helps to prime with whatever sheen is presently on the wall. If you prime with 123 on a flat wall, it will be over sealed and flash.
> Opposite is also true.


I have found this to be true on ceilings. I did a ceiling job a while ago and you could see every patch in the critical light areas. I had to go back and prime the whole area and then top coat it again to fix the issue. I have never experienced that issue on walls. 1-2-3 is one of my all time favorite products :thumbup:


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Spot prime with what I'm rolling with. Spot prime +2 coats.


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

Depends on the wall texture and the new sheen you are applying.

-I use Aura on most of my work so there is no need to prime.

-If using anything else with a sheen than I will flat it out with a flat paint.

-Crack Shot spackle for minor wall imperfections because it will not flash.

-Texture needs to remain consistent so I may use a whizz roller if there is pre existing roller texture and I need to replicate it.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Crack Shot will not flash?/ Huh-- not around me. 
Maybe with a flat paint, but with an eggshell- count on it.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

i use the same roller and paint that i'll use to paint the whole room. if you can let the spot prime dry for 24 hours it won't flash in most cases. some of the flashing is caused by a texture difference,especially with dark colours.


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## drums4jay (Jul 26, 2010)

Xmark said:


> if you can let the spot prime dry for 24 hours it won't flash in most cases.


Interesting thought...our spot priming happens, 99% of the time, only an hour or so before we start rolling the walls. I may have to try that out, if there's time. 

It seems that the SW Cashmere (Low Lustre) and ProMar 200 (eg-shel) are harder to work with as far as blending the patch. Any one else have this issue?


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## matt19422 (Oct 2, 2009)

BrushJockey said:


> Crack Shot will not flash?/ Huh-- not around me.
> Maybe with a flat paint, but with an eggshell- count on it.


Never had a problem with it using with any Benjamin Moore matte,eggshell,or semigloss. 

In fact I use it on trim to fill in nail holes and it has never given me any issues.

Are you using the Pro Crack Shot? I believe it is written on the side of the container.

I also think Jack P. wrote an article on it.


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## Xmark (Apr 15, 2012)

this thread about 'spot priming' and 'flashing' is hilarious.

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/what-does-flashing-mean-you-14937/


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## Toolnut (Nov 23, 2012)

I keep a gal. of 123 in the truck and a quart of BIN Just always seemed like cheap insurance.


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## GrantsPainting (Feb 4, 2013)

*Priming and Flashing*

LOL. I agree that the term flashing is WAY overused. 

I always use the spray cans of alkyd or BIN(shellac) primer. A quick light spray that mostly soaks in. I let it dry and then do another light spray and let dry. If its too thick it takes hours to dry but thin coats dry right up. However it never sands like a good ol' PVA primer

If its a satin or above I will use the spray can twice and still dab a little on when Im doing my cuts.

I wrote an article Primers. Go ahead and check it out if you want the complete low down on all priming techniques.


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