# Taping Floors



## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Just finished a job where I taped all the floors. Most were hardwood laminate and some were tiles.

Issue: Removing the tape after the job is done.

This continues to be a pain the @ss. I've been using 3M 2020 and I know it has a high tack coefficient and is very thin and tends to rip. So the next job I used the green tape but realized it's just as bad as 2020.

I've read that the 3M Blue 2090 tape is the tape to buy for floors but the damn stuff is $10/roll in Canada. That's about a $100 tab just to tape the floors. Does anyone have a cheaper alternative?

I always take care and place the tape underneath the baseboard if I can. I don't like to see any of the hardwood after it is taped because there will be white underneath after it is painted obviously. I remember one job where the painters were fired because you could see white under ALL the baseboards. They did a real poor job of taping it.

That said, it's really a pain in the butt to remove it afterward.

Maybe I'm just ranting ...but hope someone has a better idea.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

The ipg blue and green tape are supposed to be good if you have access to them


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> The ipg blue and green tape are supposed to be good if you have access to them


I've never heard of IPG...I was using the scotch green tape on the last job. It's too thin for floors. I use 1" Frog tape to do the initial taping near the baseboard. It's pretty thick tape but did rip because some was shoved under the baseboard. Maybe I'll use 1.5" next time. The tape that really stuck and ripped easily was the Scotch green tape attached to my paper dispenser. I also used floor paper.

It was on the floor for a week which is not exactly optimal.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Mr Smith said:


> cocomonkeynuts said:
> 
> 
> > The ipg blue and green tape are supposed to be good if you have access to them
> ...


Lol the green 2060 is a (extra) high adhesion tape. I've had good feedback with the ipg blue. @lilpaintchic uses this tape


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Lol the green 2060 is a (extra) high adhesion tape. I've had good feedback with the ipg blue. @lilpaintchic uses this tape


No, it's the 2055 and is called "MEDIUM ADHESION". It has a 5 day removal. I went about 5 days before removal.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> The ipg blue and green tape are supposed to be good if you have access to them


BLUE FOR THE WIN

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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Mr Smith said:


> cocomonkeynuts said:
> 
> 
> > Lol the green 2060 is a (extra) high adhesion tape. I've had good feedback with the ipg blue. @lilpaintchic uses this tape
> ...


I don't think that tape exist here in the US, not in my 3m catalog anyway. If its the Canadian version of the 2050 it's garbage.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> I don't think that tape exist here in the US, not in my 3m catalog anyway. If its the Canadian version of the 2050 it's garbage.


2055PCW-36

I bought it at Dulux Paint but this is what it looks like. https://goo.gl/Gkb112


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Mr Smith said:


> Just finished a job where I taped all the floors. Most were hardwood laminate and some were tiles.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is this New Construction or a repaint? Just wondering why your spraying after hardwoods are in.. You could always just brush in baseboards last and not have to be so critical with the tape. It's all gonna rip/tear if you try to shove it under the base..

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## mug (Dec 22, 2010)

3M blue walls and floors is a delicate surface tape that sticks pretty good for me. 
I really like when the contractors around here put floors in and then new quarter round trim all around with a thousand nail holes and splits. Ha!


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Is this New Construction or a repaint? Just wondering why your spraying after hardwoods are in.. You could always just brush in baseboards last and not have to be so critical with the tape. It's all gonna rip/tear if you try to shove it under the base..
> 
> Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk


I didn't spray them. It was a remodel with all new trim pack and doors (28 of them).

It was a huge job with miles of baseboards and I wanted to roll them with a 4" micro plush. All the trim was a flat profile. (I prefer to tape the baseboards with Frog tape after they have been painted).

I also like to put down floor paper when new hardwood laminate has been installed. Drop cloths are a pain in the butt when so many people are walking around the place for a few weeks. Once the floor taping was done the baseboards were a breeze to paint. It took one prime and 2 coats of Scuff X and it came out perfect.

I guess I was just complaining about removing the tape. Not a mark on the floors though.:smile:


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Mr Smith said:


> I didn't spray them. It was a remodel with all new trim pack and doors (28 of them).
> 
> It was a huge job with miles of baseboards and I wanted to roll them with a 4" micro plush. All the trim was a flat profile. (I prefer to tape the baseboards with Frog tape after they have been painted).
> 
> ...


Surprised the GC didn't already have paper down for all the trades. (Well not really) ..
1 option may be to try and get paper down before the base goes in. Then baseboards can go right on top of paper without any tape.
Also, see if you can preroll/ spray first coats on your base on a saw horse prior to Install. 

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

I’m trying Ram Boards Painters Boards and the orange Ram Edge Tape on a current remodel project. The tape is 2.5” wide and seems to have a little less tack compared 3M’s standard blue tape. I also taped a few rooms with 3M blue tape to see how it compares when it’s removed.

So far the floor protection has been down for a little over a month and the Ram Painters Board has held up exceptionally well. No tears or any issues that I’m aware of. Much better than trimaco x-board. It’s getting removed next week, so we’ll see how that goes. 

If you’re masking hardwoods I’ve also found that sealing the tape with a coats of Gardz helps to prevent the paint from bleeding under the tape.



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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

When we lay down rolled cardboard(ramboard or xboard) we use 1.5" blue tape and 12" green paper on hand masker and tape that tight to the base/shoe. This allows you to roll out the product faster and don't need very precise cuts along the wall edge 


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## Singular (Dec 23, 2018)

I completely agree with jr. Sr. It would be very painful to tape a floor paper to the baseboards with enough presicion.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Singular said:


> I completely agree with jr. Sr. It would be very painful to tape a floor paper to the baseboards with enough presicion.


Issue: Removing the tape after the job is done.

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

There is no issue of removing the tape. The only tape on the floor is around the perimeter. The rest gets overlapped and tapped to itself


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jr.sr. painting said:


> There is no issue of removing the tape. The only tape on the floor is around the perimeter. The rest gets overlapped and tapped to itself
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you read the whole post, this is the OP'S problem which he was asking advice on..

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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Let me be more clear. Use the 3m blue tape(regular) 1.5" I'm not a fan of using the word never but, I don't think I've ever had an issue with removing blue tape from the floor. Unless there is radiant floor heat or heavy foot traffic really sealing that tape down to the point of difficult removal. If it were really old wood floors with original 100 year old finish I wouldn't tape anything to them. Keep tarps tight and keep the area clean


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## akcolors (Feb 19, 2010)

don't stick it to the floor or high traffic areas
:vs_cool:


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

Mr Smith said:


> Just finished a job where I taped all the floors. Most were hardwood laminate and some were tiles.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Also, I've been known to tape it up about 1/16" onto the base then freehand the rest or use a broad knife at the end sometimes... 
Depending on how the floor runs theres always that divot between 2 boards that ends up painted. I hate that.....taping to the base eliminates that and the touch up is a breeze.
Bill your tape to the ho and use either the 2090 or the ipg blue imo...I just Amazon it.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I use nothing but 2090 blue 1.5" for floors, unless builder or floor guys spec 2080 but I dislike that stuff, leaves residue.


We get 1.5" blue for 4 or 4 25 a roll. Sometimes 3.75...


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

akcolors said:


> don't stick it to the floor or high traffic areas
> :vs_cool:


Umm, then how do you keep overspray off the floors??


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

lilpaintchic said:


> Also, I've been known to tape it up about 1/16" onto the base then freehand the rest or use a broad knife at the end sometimes...
> Depending on how the floor runs theres always that divot between 2 boards that ends up painted. I hate that.....taping to the base eliminates that and the touch up is a breeze.
> Bill your tape to the ho and use either the 2090 or the ipg blue imo..*.I just Amazon it.*
> 
> ...



Tell your supplier that your buying materials off amazon, they'll probably bring some in for you since the sundry suppliers all carry that stuff.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

ridesarize said:


> I use nothing but 2090 blue 1.5" for floors, unless builder or floor guys spec 2080 but I dislike that stuff, leaves residue.
> 
> 
> We get 1.5" blue for 4 or 4 25 a roll. Sometimes 3.75...


Here in Canada, my cost is $7.77 a roll ( I just checked) for the 1.5" blue tape. One paint store, Dulux, wants $10/roll.I just talked to a clerk at Cloverdale paint and the most popular floor tape they sell these days is the "Pro-Mask" blue tape. It's a bit cheaper than 2090. He says he doesn't sell a lot of the Scotch 2090 blue. The Pro-Mask is their best seller by far.

Wow, you get a heck of a deal on 1.5" 2090. I pay $5.87 a roll for the 1" Frog Tape.

BTW the Pro-Mask tape is a 14-day release. https://www.protapes.com/products/pro-mask-and-ez-painters-corners


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Believe it or not, the best price for tape in my town, including all the big box stores, is SW.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Maybe I'm weird but I always push thin cardboard under all the baseboards. I pull it all out while the paint is still tacky to be sure I never tear the paint.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

jennifertemple said:


> Maybe I'm weird but I always push thin cardboard under all the baseboards. I pull it all out while the paint is still tacky to be sure I never tear the paint.


These baseboards were basically sitting on top of the hardwood with very little clearance. I could only shove the tape under 70% of the time. You couldn't get a sheet of paper under them in some spots. Cardboard would be too thick.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Frog Tape. That's all we used. Wipe with a damp rag just before removing it and it comes right up. No damage to the floors.


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Epoxy Pro said:


> Frog Tape. That's all we used. Wipe with a damp rag just before removing it and it comes right up. No damage to the floors.


I use 1" Frog Tape to shove under the baseboard. My issue was with the 1.5" tape I use for the paper dispenser or floor paper. I like to use 12" paper after the initial application of Frog Tape. I think Frog tape has a bit too much adhesion for that. The 1.5" is also VERY pricy compared to the blue.

Thanks for the tip but I'd prefer to skip the wetting down step.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Mr Smith said:


> I use 1" Frog Tape to shove under the baseboard. My issue was with the 1.5" tape I use for the paper dispenser or floor paper. I like to use 12" paper after the initial application of Frog Tape. I think Frog tape has a bit too much adhesion for that. The 1.5" is also VERY pricy compared to the blue.


I know Frog Tape isn't cheap. We used to buy it by the case, better pricing that way. A damp rag should be used on the Frog Tape to soften up and release the glue. Blue tape seemed like it didn't bond to anything any more that's one reason we switched.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Mr Smith said:


> These baseboards were basically sitting on top of the hardwood with very little clearance. I could only shove the tape under 70% of the time. You couldn't get a sheet of paper under them in some spots. Cardboard would be too thick.



Think the density of playing cards, easier to force in than paper or tape.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jennifertemple said:


> Think the density of playing cards, easier to force in than paper or tape.


The problem with that is, after spraying the base, the paint glues the paper to the base.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Mr Smith said:


> I use 1" Frog Tape to shove under the baseboard. My issue was with the 1.5" tape I use for the paper dispenser or floor paper. I like to use 12" paper after the initial application of Frog Tape. I think Frog tape has a bit too much adhesion for that. The 1.5" is also VERY pricy compared to the blue.
> 
> Thanks for the tip but I'd prefer to skip the wetting down step.


 The last project I did, I put 2" blue directly to the floor tight to the base, then I masked with paper on top of that, just using 1" regular tape, stuck to the floor tape, and to the ram board on the. No problems, no residue, and no pull ups. 

The reason I did this, was that the first phase of the project, I had some masking pull ups during spraying, and the floor was extremely rough and grainy, and paint DID NOT want to come off the floor. I literally had to match paint to the floor, and do a 'wash' to make the overspray go away.

So, the second phase I went for 2" blue directly to the floor, just to make sure it stuck good (and it did) then I used that blue tape as a surface to stick my regular masking tape and paper too. There was not a single overspray pull up, the tape released with no problem, even after two weeks, and the cost of the tape didnt break the bank , but wasnt that great either. I used 1" regular on my masker, but the 2" blue tape was around $7 a roll


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Woodco said:


> The problem with that is, after spraying the base, the paint glues the paper to the base.



True, you need to pull it right away. I've never had a problem but I don't spray baseboards, I brush them.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

@Woodco After you’ve masked the floors apply a coat of Gardz to the edge of your tape. This seals the tape edge and helps to prevent bleeding. It’s been a huge time saver for me.

It doesn’t need to be a thick coat of Gardz either. I’ll use a chip or foam brush and goes pretty quickly.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jennifertemple said:


> True, you need to pull it right away. I've never had a problem but I don't spray baseboards, I brush them.


The op is obviously talking about spraying. There is no need to tape if its being brushed.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

PNW Painter said:


> @Woodco After you’ve masked the floors apply a coat of Gardz to the edge of your tape. This seals the tape edge and helps to prevent bleeding. It’s been a huge time saver for me.
> 
> It doesn’t need to be a thick coat of Gardz either. I’ll use a chip or foam brush and goes pretty quickly.
> 
> ...


Absolutely not! The problem is never tape bleed, when spraying base. The only problems are masking blowing off the floor, or when the taping isnt done quite right, and theres paint lines on the floor. Neither of which have to do with bleeding. 

If you use gardz for that anyway, you're just making the bleedthrough clear instead of preventing it. I say hell no, to the gardz tape seal theory.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I agree. You don't, or shouldn't have to cram tape or cardboard under the base. As long as the line is straight it should be acceptable. If the GC has a problem with paint under the baseboards, tell him the carpenter should scribe his baseboards closer to the foor. 
If it looks that bad, tell the GC for an extra charge you'll caulk the baseboards to the floor to get rid of the gap..
I always use green frog tape if I want to be sure of no bleeding.

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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Woodco said:


> The op is obviously talking about spraying. There is no need to tape if its being brushed.


No, I brush and rolled all the baseboards and trim. I wanted a rolled finish on the baseboards and not have to cut them in at the floor. Once the floor paper was in place it was a breeze to paint and the rolled finish looked great.

I didn't want a brushed look on the new trim pack. I also didn't have the patience to cut-in that much baseboard twice in addition to the spot priming of the nail hole putty.


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## jennifertemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Woodco said:


> The op is obviously talking about spraying. There is no need to tape if its being brushed.



I disagree. You can not brush out fully and be sure of not hitting the floor. You can not draw a drop-sheet up close without it getting into the paint. I ALWAYS mask!


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

jennifertemple said:


> I disagree. You can not brush out fully and be sure of not hitting the floor. You can not draw a drop-sheet up close without it getting into the paint. I ALWAYS mask!


Okay, but theres no reason to leave the tape on long enough to worry about residue.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Mr Smith said:


> No, I brush and rolled all the baseboards and trim. I wanted a rolled finish on the baseboards and not have to cut them in at the floor. Once the floor paper was in place it was a breeze to paint and the rolled finish looked great.
> 
> I didn't want a brushed look on the new trim pack. I also didn't have the patience to cut-in that much baseboard twice in addition to the spot priming of the nail hole putty.


Oh, I stand corrected. I am picturing a full mask staying down for a week and a half while the whole place gets sprayed. Im gonna have to agree with Jennifer then, forget taping, and use a sheild or something.


You spot prime your nail holes before putting two coats on top of it? Do you really think thats necessary? I usually just brush one coat over my spackle holes on base, and it turns out fine. And two coats on jambs, and I've never seen flashing. You can save yourself a lot of time by skipping the spot prime, if you ask me, but its up to you...

Also, if you can put a coat on the base before it goes up, you could just use cardboard sheilds on the floor, and roll on top of them. Makes for very quick work of that kind of thing. Time is money, folks.


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

*Rolled finish*

Mr. Smith-

I'm curious what type of rollers do you use? I usually get a good finish with the black foam rollers that go on the cage frames, but I've noticed they leave little tiny air bubbles the finish. This is not too visible with satin sheen or lower but when I get up in the semi gloss the bubbles are more noticeable and I endup tipping them off with the brush. The same thing seems to happen with the flock rollers.

It seems like any sort of hair on a roller or even mohair seems to shed a little bit. Which is why I started using the foams. Curious what you use and are happy with. 

Thanks,
Pete


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## Mr Smith (Mar 11, 2016)

Woodco said:


> Oh, I stand corrected. I am picturing a full mask staying down for a week and a half while the whole place gets sprayed. Im gonna have to agree with Jennifer then, forget taping, and use a sheild or something.
> 
> 
> You spot prime your nail holes before putting two coats on top of it? Do you really think thats necessary? I usually just brush one coat over my spackle holes on base, and it turns out fine. And two coats on jambs, and I've never seen flashing. You can save yourself a lot of time by skipping the spot prime, if you ask me, but its up to you...
> ...


The homeowner installed all the baseboards after the hardwood was installed before I arrived. Yeah, doing the first coat on saw horses would have been great.

Sanding the wood filler punched through the cheap factory primer and exposing raw MDF so I primed with stix. He also used the nail gun too often and in difficult spots to sand. The corners were a real pain where 4-5 nails were driven tight to the corner. He also made quite a few cutting mistakes that I had to fill in with wood filler. I'm talking big gaps to fill in. I used my trusty Festool RO-90 with a delta head for the corners etc.

I like to seal the woodwork caulking with the primer too. I don't like a brushed look for baseboards. Taping allows me to do two full finish coats with a roller. Cutting in two coats tight to the hardwood would take forever and I don't brush baseboards if I can help it. The Wooster Micro plush leaves a spray like finish. 

White doesn't cover very well so using cardboard shields was out of the question. I needed two full coats rolled tight to the floor. I actually did a full coat of primer in 3/4 of the rooms (in addition to the two coats of finish) because rolling was so fast. I spot primed a few rooms at best.

Not an ideal job with everything done azz-backward, but it looked great when finished and I got paid. This was the homeowners first flip and that was his first time hanging trim and doors.


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## deadend (Aug 1, 2013)

...Purdy Ultra Finish Microfibers...1/2" for bulk work and 3/8" nap for finer results...4" and 6" lengths...revelation and a life saver...laid out properly i






t's quite an impressive finish alternative to spraying...


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