# Moisture level in wood?



## CNQ (Mar 5, 2010)

I am currently doing a large site that has Poplar wood for all the trim. I am having a problem, and if any one has any info, maybe you can help me out. I am using a good quality Latex Primer/Sealer and then a 100% Acrylic Latex Semi for the finish. Using putty and caulking to fill nail holes and cracks. We apply every coat via spray. Here is the problem....when we spray the trim and paint the house, the trim looks flawless. A month and a half latter, we go for touch ups and the trim looks like crap! Every joint is open, all the cracks re-open and all the nail holes are visible. I starting this job using standard new construction paints and now I am using top line paints thinking it was the paint. After asking a few carpenters about Poplar wood, they all told me it has a high moisture level. Does anyone know whats going on here? Is there a moisture level that wood should be prior to painting? Anyone know where or how I can learn abit more about this?

Thanks in advance


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Mousture should be under 15%. Any pictures? That would help a lot.

From the sounds of it, its not a "paint" problem, but rather "shrinkage", or "movement" of the wood. There will always be some shrink, especially crown moulding. A top quality caulk will prevent a lot of this, but not all. Again, pictures would help....


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Yeah sounds like shrinkage from lumber drying out. It has to be too green when you painted it or it maybe was not nailed off good enough.If the lumber was stored in a cold damp place then installed in a heated building this can happen. It's a good idea for the finish guys to bring the trim into the heated building and let it set for a couple weeks before installing.


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> Yeah sounds like shrinkage from lumber drying out. It has to be too green when you painted it or it maybe was *not nailed* *off good enough*.


My other thought....:thumbsup:


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Schmidt & Co. said:


> My other thought....:thumbsup:


I thought you were going to refer to another shrinkage.:thumbup:


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## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I was talking about shrinkage of the wood...... Oh nevermind!


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I've had these problems before as well. Not only is poplar a wet wood but if the trim has also been applied within 30 days of the plaster going on it it going to soak up the excess water like a sponge. If possible (with NC Scheduling) I would take the next house and back prime all the stock. See if the builder will give you a few days from when the stock is delivered and when the finish guys start (of course provided you havent cut your teeth too tight on pricing and the builder is concerned about producing a premium product) and try to get compensated for your time. 

Another important question would be - is the finish carpenter biscut jointing and gluing all the joints? Or at least gluing all the joints? I've seen some finish guys that only caulk their 45's and butt joints. If they glue it will solve many problems. If you can also get them to butt prime, then glue you wuld be golden.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/



*Understanding Moisture Content and Wood Movement*

_by_ Carl Hagstrom _on_ September 3, 2010
(with Gene Wengert, The Wood Doctor.)
*Expected movement can be accurately predicted, which means avoiding potential problems down the road.*


In this article, we’ll explain the importance of understanding wood movement, how to use a moisture meter to measure the *moisture content (MC)* of trim, how to decide when a load of trim should be rejected, and how to accurately estimate how much trim will move after it’s installed.
Most finish carpenters are aware that seasonal changes in humidity cause trim and flooring to shrink in the winter and expand in the summer. But few realize that the expected movement can be accurately predicted and potential problems avoided. It’s our premise that with a moisture meter and an understanding of wood movement, most wood movement problems can be avoided. Plus, with this data, finish carpenters can accurately predict how trim and flooring will behave after it’s installed.
*Wood Movement — You Can’t Stop It*

Wood is hygroscopic, which means its MC will fluctuate based on the *relative humidity (RH)* of the surrounding air. As humidity increases, the MC increases, and the wood expands, and as the humidity decreases, MC decreases, and the wood shrinks. This relationship is referred to as *Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC)*, and can be accurately predicted.
*Understanding Equilibrium Moisture Content*


The moisture content of wood is tied directly to the relative humidity of the surrounding air. The higher the relative humidity, the higher the MC of the wood. Period. If you’re installing wood that’s recently been transported, or installed on a job, it might take a little while for the material to reach its *equilibrium moisture content (EMC)* with the air—in other words, for the wood to accommodate to the humidity level for the climate around the wood: the wood may take on more moisture or it may dry out. For example, if wood at 10% MC is exposed to 25% RH, the wood will dry to 5% MC (and shrink as it dries).
The EMC helps us understand the response wood will have to relative humidity, whether it will shrink or expand. For woodworkers and carpenters, the EMC is more helpful than RH. The simplified chart to the right shows the EMC values of wood when stored at the humidity and temperatures indicated.
Complete EMC levels for wood stored in unheated structures in your area of the country can be found HERE.
*How Wood Moves*

If the MC of the wood you install is too high, excessive shrinkage may occur, along with the risk of problems of unacceptable gaps and cracks in the wood itself. When the MC is too low, the wood may expand, and may buckle, bow, and distort surrounding material.
There are six key areas finish carpenters should be aware of when it comes to wood movement.
*1. Width of material*
The wider the board, the more movement will occur (the term “board” technically refers to wood 1 1/2 in. thick or less, but for this article its use will refer to wood typically used by finish carpenters). It’s a direct proportion: an 8-in. board will move twice as much as a 4-in. board, and a 12-in. board will move 3 times the amount as a 4-in. board. And it’s important to keep in mind that a glued-up panel behaves basically as one wide piece of lumber.

*2. Grain orientation matters*
Boards are characterized as being either “flat sawn” or “quarter sawn.” Quarter sawn lumber (also referred to as “rift sawn” or “vertical grain”) shrinks and expands roughly half as much as flat sawn. Most over-the-counter finish material is flat sawn, and you should assume flat sawn values unless you’re sure your material is quarter sawn. Quarter sawn lumber has annular rings that are oriented between 45 and 90 degrees to the board’s face. Flat sawn grain orientation falls between 0 and 45 degrees to the board’s face.

 Wood Grain (Note: Click any image to enlarge. Hit "back" button to return to article")

*3. Moisture content of the wood at delivery*
The only way to accurately predict wood movement is to know the MC of the material when you receive it. Moisture content is measured using a *moisture meter*. Failure to check your delivered material means you have no chance of anticipating movement problems. Furthermore, material that measures outside of the acceptable MC level should be rejected.
*4. Humidity inside and outside the structure*

Homes in most of the U.S. that lack humidity control typically experience interior levels of humidity from 25% RH to 65% RH. This range of humidity will cause a 6% change in the MC of the wood. This change in MC will cause a 12-in. wide maple board to change 1/4 in.
When material is installed that was delivered at an unacceptable MC, or the humidity range in the structure exceeds typical values, the amount of wood movement increases—and can cause problems even in well-designed trim details. It’s worth noting that panel material (plywood, MDF, composite materials) move at about 1/10th the rate of solid wood.
In most of North America, exterior humidity levels range from 60% RH to 70% RH in summer and winter, but are lower in the Southwest, and higher near large bodies of water. If the material is delivered at 6 to 8% MC, it can experience more than a 2% change in size as it adjusts to the EMC.
*5. Species affects the amount of movement*
Wood movement depends in part on the species. A 12-in. wide western red cedar board will fluctuate 1/8 in. while the same size maple board will fluctuate 1/4 in. The formula for calculating wood movement is complex and extremely accurate, but tedious.
One simple rule of thumb serves as an approximate guide to predicting wood movement: “Most species of flat grain material will change size 1% for every 4% change in MC.” Applying this formula to a situation where the seasonal EMC ranges from 6% to 10%, a 12-in. wide board will change dimension 1/8 in.
I’ve put together a rough chart (see below, click to enlarge) that offers approximate movement values for various widths and commonly used species of wood. These values are based on flat sawn lumber, and offer a general idea of anticipated annual in-service movement. The movement values for quarter sawn lumber are approximately 1/2 the flat sawn values.
​ 
If you want to know exactly how much the material you’re using is going to shrink or expand, use this online shrinkage calculator. Simply enter the high and low MC values and the width and species of the board


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

*6. Applied finish does not stop movement*
While it’s true a high quality finish will slow the rate of moisture exchange, it will not stop it. Material finished on all surfaces will expand or contract at a slower rate than raw wood, but make no mistake—finished wood will eventually acclimate to EMC levels.
*Events That Increase Movement Risks*
There are many events that can contribute to excessive wood movement issues. Nearly all of them can be prevented before they cause a problem if—and only if—you measure the MC of the wood as soon as it’s delivered, and avoid using wood that is too wet or too dry for the expected in-use EMC. The moment the wood is delivered, it begins to acclimate to the surrounding environment. At the very least, it’s important that you document the delivered MC, just in case wood movement becomes an issue. But responsible carpentry can’t be accomplished without reading the delivered moisture content of the wood and planning for wood movement during and after acclimation.
*Excessive MC in delivered material*

Optimum MC for interior millwork is 6-8%. In the real world, your material may arrive around 9-10%. For installations in unheated areas, the preferred readings are in the 12-14% range, assuming an area is protected from the weather. In most cases, you can deal with material that’s a couple of points high, but keep in mind that the wider the stock, the greater the movement. Ideally, the moisture content of wood should not change more than 2% when put into use.
Think through your trim details and consider how they will react when the wider assemblies shrink. With wide glued-up material, slightly higher MC levels may not be acceptable. If you’ll be installing wide material, it’s a good idea to be upfront with your supplier and let them know that the material’s MC must be within the range you specify. As a last resort, you may choose to dry the wood in your shop if the shop’s EMC is low, and have any shrinkage problems show up before the wood is installed.
*Delivered material that’s too dry*

This is seldom an issue for interior trim, but can be a real issue for exterior trim. Material delivered at 6% MC, and installed outside, will acclimate at 12% in the more humid months, resulting in a 6 point MC change. This swelling of the material can cause significant problems in situations where installation creates accumulated movement (more on this below).
*Long-term storage of trim material*

If you plan on storing trim material for any length of time in an unheated area, keep in mind that, in most parts of the US, the material will acclimate to roughly 11-12% MC. (See the humidity moisture content chart at the beginning of this article.)
If MC is too high, lower readings can be achieved by moving the material into a heated area. The amount will depend on the temperature and humidity of the storage area. The change in MC won’t happen immediately, and the material in the center of a pile will change at a slower rate than the material at the edges. Spacing the material so all surfaces are exposed to the air helps, as does good air circulation throughout the pile. You’ll need to take sample readings with your moisture meter to determine when the material reaches your intended MC.
Higher temperatures result in a more rapid change in MC when the humidity remains constant (roughly speaking, moisture moves twice as quickly for every increase in temperature of 20 degrees). And despite what you may think, moisture gain or loss does not stop when temperatures fall below freezing. The moisture in wood is chemically bound in the walls of the wood cells and cannot freeze.
*Typical on-site humidity*

At certain points during construction, such as when pouring concrete, plastering or drywalling, tremendous amounts of moisture are often added to the air, causing humidity spikes as high as 80-85% RH. If you are storing finish material on-site during these periods, be sure to keep them wrapped in a vapor impermeable material (like plastic) with as few gaps as possible. Wood stored in this manner will not pick up any appreciable moisture.
Interior trim should not be installed until the temporary construction humidity has subsided. Use an accurate digital hygrometer to measure RH (under $40). Generally speaking, interior trim should not be installed when the humidity is above 60%, or the material may climb above acceptable MC levels.
Humidity in un-heated areas fluctuates about 10%; therefore dry material (6% to 8% MC) installed in un-heated areas will swell significantly. It’s important that the MC of exterior trim be within 2-3 points of the EMC values for the area before it is installed.
*In-service low humidity issues*

In heating climates, older, drafty homes may see humidity drop, measuring 20% RH in the winter. The EMC in this environment will vary nearly 8% wintertime to summertime. Homes with wood stoves and no humidity control can see EMC swings of up to 11%. In extreme environments, consider using cabinet grade plywood for wide panel application instead of solid wood.
*In-service high humidity issues*

Typically, high humidity (constant levels above 60%) is not an issue. But if you find yourself working on a project that includes a room with a spa, heated pool, or damp crawl space, proceed with serious caution—85% RH means an 18% EMC. A 12-in. wide piece of birch installed at 8% MC in such a room will swell in width over 3/8 in. Letting your material acclimate to the high MC levels before installing is one approach, but keep in mind that if there is ever a period where the pool is drained for a significant time, and the humidity drops to typical levels, the trim material will experience severe shrinkage. A carefully-worded disclaimer regarding wood movement would seem to be in order.
*Understanding Accumulated Wood Movement*

Glued-up solid wood panels behave as though they were one wide board—a 24-in. wide panel will shrink and swell four times as much as a 6-in. board. But what about a series of boards installed side by side (T&G flooring, for example)? While it’s true that each board can move independently, accumulated movement can cause significant problems, typically when the newly installed material gains moisture. (See photo, right)
If the material in non-glued assemblies (flooring, for example) is installed “tight”, and there’s no gap to absorb expansion as the material gains moisture, the increase in width of each floor board becomes cumulative, and causes the entire floor to “grow” buy the sum of each piece’s individual movement. In cases of excessive shrinkage, unacceptable gaps can result between each floorboard.
​For example, random width oak flooring is delivered at 8% MC. The width of the room is 12 feet, and the floor acclimates to a high level of 11% MC, the cumulative movement is about 1 3/8 in. In the real world, a lot of this expansion is “lost” as the fit tightens up, but in some cases the wood fibers compress, and fiber compression can cause grain ridges. By using a moisture meter, and predicting the movement, you can decide whether you should install the material “tight” or “loose” to absorb what you know will be an increase in material width.
_Moisture content on exterior trim can range from 12% to 16% depending on the region, time of year, and location of the material. (Click images to enlarge)_


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

It helps if the GC will maintain a decently stable interior climate as well. Nothing worse than swings from hot and humid then cold, etc. Good way to have joints open us if you are working on a larger project over a seasonal change.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

*Common Movement Issues*
*Paneled Passage Doors*

Experienced door hangers know that a paneled passage door with a tight reveal will shrink in the winter and possibly stick in the summer. (Remember, if you live in California, the winters may be more humid than the summers!). But basing your door gap on the time of year you hang the door can be a mistake if you don’t know the MC of the door.
The seasonal width changes of a door are controlled by the MC change in the door’s stiles.
. . . . . . . . . .​If that fir door you’re getting ready to hang in the winter has been stored for six months in an unheated building, the moisture of the 5-in. stiles may easily measure 12-13% MC. After that door is hung, the MC of those stiles will drop to 6%, and the door can easily shrink 3/16 in. Knowing the MC at the time of installation provides the needed guidance.
And keep in mind that the door panels in this example will shrink significantly after installation. This won’t affect the fit of the door, but if the door finish is applied at the MC noted, there will likely be unfinished wood exposed as the door panels shrink to their in-service width. (See photo, left) _This is particularly noticeable when a light wood is stained dark._
By measuring the MC of the door stiles, you can base your door gap on established movement values, not guesswork, and avoid callbacks when the fit becomes a problem.
*Doors with horizontal battens*

Unless you’re setup to build these doors properly, avoid them. The typical horizontal batten door is built using T&G material for the door face, and then battens are fastened to the back of the door to hold things in place. As the seasonal MC of the T&G material rises and falls, the boards expand and contract, but the battens—with their grain running in the opposite direction—resist that movement, forcing the door to cup inward or outward depending on the direction of the movement.
​_The detail below is one method used for cabinet batten doors that successfully allows for seasonal wood movement._
*Captive panels*

Resist the temptation to “picture frame” a solid wood panel—the way some woodworkers new to the craft miter a nosing or a frame around a tabletop. The miter joint will always fail when the panel expands and contracts. Instead, use a breadboard nosing design so that the wide panel can shrink or swell without destroying the surrounding joinery. (See below)
​*Inside corner trim*

When installing trim that covers an inside corner, fasten the trim through the corner and into the substrate so the adjoining finish material can move independently as its MC changes. A typical example is base shoe molding. The best practice is to nail base shoe to the plate, with a long nail that doesn’t penetrate the baseboard or the flooring. But that’s not practical on most jobs.
The second choice is to fasten the baseshoe to the baseboard. Yes, the baseboard will lift off the floor in the heating season, but rarely more than 1/16 in. A wide floor, on the other hand, moves more than a 6-in. piece of baseboard; if you nail the base shoe to the floor, the base shoe may separate significantly from the baseboard.
. . . . . . . . . .​*Common Myths*
*Wood is stable at below freezing temperatures.*

The moisture in wood is chemically bound in the walls of the wood cells and cannot freeze, and expansion and contraction continues at below freezing temperatures. Wood does acclimate more slowly at lower temperatures.
*Wood will expand on warmer days and contract on colder days.*

For all practical purposes, thermal expansion and contraction of wood is not an issue. That said, warmer temperatures speed the exchange of moisture within the wood. Moisture exchange will happen more rapidly at warmer temperatures, but there is no thermal movement of wood worth measuring.
*It doesn’t matter if lumber is kiln-dried.*

Kiln-dried hardwood lumber typically leaves the kiln near 6% MC (softwoods at 10-12%). But all kiln-dried material will acclimate to the surrounding EMC levels. The significant advantages of kiln-dried material is that it is typically heated to at least 130 degrees in the kiln, which will stop any insect activity, and also “set” the sap in resinous softwoods (sap in resinous air dried material can bleed from the board after it’s installed, especially when interior temperatures rise in the summer).
*They don’t make wood like they used to.*

It’s true that most of the old growth timber is gone, but properly dried vertical grain material has highly desirable movement characteristics. If you’re seeking material that will move the least, choose one of the more stable species, and specify vertical grain (and be sure to check your wallet before ordering!).
But most importantly, _owning and using a moisture meter_ _and_ _knowing the in-use EMCs_ is an inexpensive way for carpenters to predict and avoid wood movement problems that could require costly repairs.
———​*AUTHOR BIOS*
*Carl Hagstrom* is a partner in Woodweb, the leading online resource for professional woodworking. He has an extensive background in residential construction and architectural woodworking. He is also a contributing editor at the _Journal of Light Construction_, and a Certified Professional Building Designer.
*Gene Wengert*—having taken an interest in woodworking since 7th grade shop classes—was employed by the US Forest Products Lab as a college student starting in 1961. He worked in solar lumber drying, as well as discoloration of wood due to UV light. He then worked on the weathering of wood with the Lab and received a BS degree in meteorology from the University of Wisconsin. He continued to work on moisture related issues and developed expertise in processing northern and Rocky Mountain aspen, going from environmental benefits of the species through sawing, drying, and marketing. (Aspen is splinterless, did you know?) He worked at Virginia Tech as a wood specialist for the extension service, consulting with the wood industry daily. He also managed Tech’s sawmill and dry kiln.
For fun, Gene has taken up long-distance bicycle riding (at age 55) and has done two trips from the Pacific to Atlantic Ocean and three from the Gulf to Minneapolis.
Dr. Gene Wengert is Professor Emeritus in Wood Processing, Department of Forestry, at the University of Wisconsin (Madison). He is also a technical advisor at Woodwebs’s Sawing and Drying Forum, and Commercial Kiln Drying Forum. He frequently contributes to trade journals serving the primary lumber processing industry, and is president of The Wood Doctor’s Rx, LLC, through which he provides educational and consulting services to lumber processing firms.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

This reminds me of being in some homes where the doors all close good in summer but when winter comes around all the doors stick.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

You may find that your paintmaker has a system calling for an alkyd primer followed by an acrylic finish coat.

Google: "moisture meters" 

Are you caulking and puttying before any paint is applied?


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## NaeGan (Jun 16, 2010)

Is there a link to this article, or did you have to buy it?


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

NaeGan said:


> Is there a link to this article, or did you have to buy it?


 http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/


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## CNQ (Mar 5, 2010)

Yes I am caulking and puttying before priming and then recaulking and puttying if missed between coats.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

johnpaint said:


> This reminds me of being in some homes where the doors all close good in summer but when winter comes around all the doors stick.



That is funny. I usually find the opposite where everything it tight in the summer and loose in the winter.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

CNQ said:


> Yes I am caulking and puttying before priming and then recaulking and puttying if missed between coats.


Caulk after prime. The caulking has nothing to bite on to if your caulking to bare wood. Could be a reason why the caulk is pulling away.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

DeanV said:


> That is funny. I usually find the opposite where everything it tight in the summer and loose in the winter.


Yeah, difference in location.Pretty damp around here in the winter.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

you need to use a sealant, not a caulk. sealant has elongation and memory, caulk is only flexible. dissimilar cavities with exspandtion and contraction require sealant.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

CNQ said:


> Yes I am caulking and puttying before priming and then recaulking and puttying if missed between coats.


As was suggested, the caulking and puttying should be done after the prime coat. Consider too using an alkyd on that raw poplar. I think some of the warpage may be from the wood being too wet. This is a quantifyable condition. More a problem of not back priming the trim packs. IMO all six sides of the rectangle should be primed.


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