# Spray Painting



## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

I've been painting for 20 years doing mainly re-paints...I usually spray my airless Graco 490 st on ceilings,fences,stucco,exteriors...I stay away from new construction because I don't want to stain/laqueur....

I'm starting a new job where the homeowner has gotten new windows,and is putting in new doors,frames,window frames,baseboards so I think it would be advisable to spray the woodwork ...I want to use BM Moorestyle semi-gloss....I'm thinking about using my Lemmer HVLP sprayer with a one gallon pressure pot...I can spray the doors in the heated garage,as well as the baseboards...

Ok,should I wait and spray the doors and door trim until after the carpenter has hung them?....Also,the hardwood floors are going to be refinished after the painting...should I still tape around the door frames to protect the floors?...Will a floor sander get that close to the trim to remove the overspray?....I'm thinking about getting doordeckers,but I'm a one man operation and you need two men to flip the doors with that stacking system...Any suggestions?

I'm also going to spray the vaulted ceilings with BM flat paint and will use a 515 Graco tip..Is that correct?

Should I caulk the door frames where it meets the wall?...I'm using white dap alex plus,but the trim will be an off white....Finishing off the baseboards with a white caulk might show against an offwhite colour,don't you think?..Should I paint the caulking?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

Ok you have been painting for 20 years but you don't know that you should put a coat of paint on the base boards after you caulk them. Are the carpenters using off white nails? It kind of makes me question what you have been doing for the last 20 years. I know I'm stabbing at you but you are asking first year questions. This should be a no brainer for you. Surely you have worked on a job where the trim has been replaced and the floors are being refinished. How could you have priced this job correctly if you didn't figure out how you were going to do it?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

First off stick with the airless, your pot sprayer will be really slow and to spray latex you will have to really thin the paint.
I like to spray my doors and jambs after they are hung, i would replace the hinges with some crappy ones and spray your doors on the jambs. I would spray the doors and jambs with a graco 310 fine finish tip.

Yes i would still put some paper and tape down around the jambs the sander will not be able to get in that close with out cutting into the jambs.

I also would bump up your ceiling spraying tip to at least a 517 

Yes prep your jambs completely before spraying

Myself i would also lay some shingles out along the base and spray a coat of primer then finish on the base when i sprayed the trim. 

Good luck with 20yrs exp it should be a snap.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*try to*

answer the questions bud...Or don't bother replying...

Once the walls have been final coated the baserboards are installed...You then fill the nail holes with putty and wipe off the excess....I then caulk the baseboards....But if you had the ability to read correctly,I said the baseboards will be an OFFWHITE colour and caulking is usually pure white so it will show.....Another way to do it is to caulk the baseboards,repaint the baseboards after the caulk has dried then REPAINT THE WALLS WITH A FINAL COAT...I like to tape my baseboards,so you need to wait a day to apply the finish coat to the walls(so the masking tape will stick)

I stated that I don't do new construction...Yes for 20 years I have done repaints....I'm looking for alternative methods,bud..that is the purpose of this forum.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Hey Workaholic*

Thanks for the reply...good advice....

In the past,when new baseboards are put in after the hardwood is finished I usually just filled in the nail holes with a white putty and finished off the baseboards with a nice line of caulking....This time,because the baseboards are an off-white,the line of caulking may show...I don't like to repaint all the baseboards freehand so close to the new hardwood floors...It is a major pain...I wipe off the putty oil with a damp rag after the white putty has dried...It usually looks good...However there are times when the nails are not countersunk and I have to repaint all the baseboards....You can't really touch up a sprayed baseboards with a brush in my opinion...They need to be completely repainted....I find that the cut on the top of the baseboard is a pain to do if the caulking is a different colour,and the line is never laser sharp like you have with tape...

The Graco rep told me today to use a 517 while two sales reps told me to use a 515 tip because there may be runs down the wall because of excessive paint from the 517...

Also,do you spray from top to bottom on your doors?..These panel doors have some deep ridges..Should I spray side to side also?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

When would you ever caulk the baseboards and not paint them? Were you not going to paint the putty either? Sounds like a half assed corner cutting job. Why are you taping the baseboards? What a waste of time and money. Can you not cut a straight line? Your customer has to wait over night to get their room back when you only have an hour or less of work left. That's got to make them happy.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Daren*

The baseboards will have been finished before they are nailed in...The top line of caulking finishes them off nice....White putty filling in a microscopic nail hole is not noticeable if you clean the residue off....It depends on the size of the nails used too...Tiny staple-like fasteners are often used...They look like staples but are about 2''long...LIke I said,I don't do new construction and new baseboards are rarely put in on a job...


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Yeah sure daren*

You can paint all the baseboards in a 3500 sq ft house with newly finished hardwood floors in an hour...LOL


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*workaholic*

you would use a graco 310 fine finishing tip to spray doors and jams?....The BM Moorstyle semi-glosss latex is quite thick...You probably have to thin it down quite a bit...That orifice seems to be tiny for a latex....


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The only problem I see with leaving the caulking/putty not painted is that it collects dirt and dust and turns gray looking without painting over it.It usually takes a month or two to start this. I have painted homes that the guy before me did this, and all the walls may look good but the caulking is all gray and has hair and dirt sticking to it.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

tedrin said:


> Also,do you spray from top to bottom on your doors?..These panel doors have some deep ridges..Should I spray side to side also?


I usually spray from the bottom up and from the top down, it just depends. If you have 8ft ceilings just be aware so you don't start dusting your ceilings. If you are not used to spraying trim i would suggest moving quickly. A couple lighter coats will work better than trying to lay so much on that you start running all over the place. 


tedrin said:


> you would use a graco 310 fine finishing tip to spray doors and jams?....The BM Moorstyle semi-glosss latex is quite thick...You probably have to thin it down quite a bit...That orifice seems to be tiny for a latex....


Most modern day latex trim paints are thick, the 310 should have no problem spraying it. When i used to run industrial enamel oil for trim i would spray that out of a 211 without thinning. If you are real worried about it you could get a bigger trim tip, i still am sticking with the 310.



johnpaint said:


> The only problem I see with leaving the caulking/putty not painted is that it collects dirt and dust and turns gray looking without painting over it.It usually takes a month or two to start this. I have painted homes that the guy before me did this, and all the walls may look good but the caulking is all gray and has hair and dirt sticking to it.


Yep that is exactly what will happen.


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## cole191919 (Jan 10, 2008)

I would remove the doors and put em on sawhorses myself. Especially if I were to be using an HVLP. If the paint is thinned, it can tend to run if you apply a little too much at first. On sawhorses they lay flat and the paint settles nice. Throw down some dropsheets and go. Don't need to tape anything (except the door knob)

Oh and for spraying - I usually go horizontal strokes first coat. Vertical strokes second - and third if required - to ensure absolute even coverage.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I wondered the same thing Daren was questioning. Even in repaints you have to caulk. Do you paint over the caulking then? I never leave raw caulking, spackle, putty, ect. Only a hack would do that. I'm not calling you one. BUT REALLY! who doesn't paint over caulking?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

tedrin said:


> You can paint all the baseboards in a 3500 sq ft house with newly finished hardwood floors in an hour...LOL


I was talking about one room but if you must know I have done the base boards in a 6000 sq ft house in 4 hours. :^P


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Ewingpainting*

The difference this time is the refinished hardwood floors....Normally with repaints,I caulk the baseboards,let it dry then paint the BB's,, all the trim and doors then paint the walls...I tape my freshly painted baseboards and you get a laser sharp line,and you spend much less time on the ground because you aren't cutting in the baseboards last...I like to save my knees/back...


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## slamman190 (Aug 25, 2008)

We do tons of new construction, and the easiest way to spray doors is to set them up in the largest room. This should be a snap for you because you are painting the ceilings, so paint the doors first and you won't have to worry about dusting the ceiling with the trim paint. If the ceilings are not getting painted, large pieces of cardboard from hardwood boxes or bifold boxes on top of the doors work as great as shields.

We us long pieces of scrap wood to nail together the doors standing up in long rows. Lay the scrap wood on the top of the doors and the doors stand quite nicely. Also be sure to put wood underneath the doors so that they are not directly on the floor. It is much nicer to be able to spray the doors in a row, and not have to worry about them swinging on hinges, or getting in the way when you spray the door frames.

when doing ceilings we always paint the walls one top coat, or at least a cut, then poly the walls and spray the ceilings. This allows your first cut to be super fast as it doesn't matter if you cut onto the ceiling, and when you pull the poly down you get nice straight lines that makes second cut a breeze.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*thanks slamman190*

I love that idea with the doors!!....I can use the heated garage and some of the bigger rooms...Does the connecting piece of wood at the top of the doors bounce some of the paint back on the doors?...I suppose i could get a 12 foot piece of lumber the thickness of the doors and just screw it in the top and line up 7-8 doors at a time....The great thing is that you paint both sides at the same time!!....No flipping over on a wet saw horse..

Do you spray up and down and side to side for the first coat?...I mean spray the door up and down and immediately after that side to side?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

ask RCP about new construction painting. They seem like they have it down.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*slamman190*

RE: The ceilings....These are high vaulted ceilings...Would you still tape and poly the walls?....Believe it or not,I've never taped a wall like that..It is an older house ,with flat ceilings and the corners are not exactly square....I've always free handed with a brush when cutting in a wall with flat,untextured, ceilings...I might just try it out...


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

I can only think of a couple select projects where we've sprayed the doors on their hinges. The only reason we did it then was because they were solid 9 foot heavy bastards. We remove the doors from their hinges and seal the tops and bottoms. After they dry we we line them up in the biggest room with brackets nailed to the tops. Generally, we spray from the top to the bottom and back up using a 310FF tip for our latex semis. 

Now, as far as your base goes... You gotta paint the caulk man. You just gotta. The cheaper the caulk you use the worse it's going to look as time passes. Alex caulk will be yellow by the time the sun comes up the first day after you're gone. 

Also, we use 515 on ceilings all the time. You'll be fine with it.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks Tsu!
Lots of good info here already. Here is some more http://www.painttalk.com/showthread.php?t=1165
I would cover the floors completely
Spray doors hanging, I like these http://www.hingemag.com/
That way you can do all the trim too, I hate painting it before install, never leave unpainted caulk/putty.
Spray the lids, you do have an extension pole? then the walls.
Run a strip of blue tape straight on wall just barely below ceiling, then use plastic on wall, go back and spray light coat and ceiling line. Make sense?
Of course there may be better ways in your particular situation.


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## slamman190 (Aug 25, 2008)

In the new construction we do, textured ceilings are typically not painted, only smooth ones. Obviously it is much easier to cut in a textured ceiling than smooth. 

Typically we do the trim before we do the walls or ceilings. So when we are doing the ceilings, we have to protect the trim anyway, it is not much more work to poly the entire room. It gives you a nice cut line, as well as keeping the job tidier.

We spray the doors up and down using a 411 tip. Up and down is best for a few reasons; its faster when you are only doing the length of the door rather than the width, and secondly, the less passes you do means less chance of messing up your lap marks, as well as less overspray. We do two coats up and down, one per day. Even with up and down spraying you are not always spraying straight on, you do go on slight angles to to get full coverage of reveals etc. if needed.

Bounce back is not an issue off of the connecting pieces.


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## mjkpainting (Feb 12, 2008)

Hey tough guy Daren-

Please post appropriate helpful responses to questions and stop being a knucklehead. The guy asked a simple question. I really get pissed at responses like that where the post tries to make someone else look stupid. It's a valid question


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Your right MJK: But will they learn? It's funny there are about 7 or 8 guy's on here that need each other attention so bad, they have to act up every now and then to get it. I guess some of these guy's have businesses, I wonder how they act around there clients?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

mjkpainting said:


> Hey tough guy Daren-
> 
> Please post appropriate helpful responses to questions and stop being a knucklehead. The guy asked a simple question. I really get pissed at responses like that where the post tries to make someone else look stupid. It's a valid question


You think it's a simple question but it really wasn't. First he take a job without knowing how he is going to do it. I gaurantee it's under bid. Then he asks us if he should cut corners. Maybe no one will notice that the baseboards aren't finished. He started the job out of order. These are all questions he should of asked on day 1 when he looked at the job before he gave a price. Price is based on time. If you don't know how you will do the job then you don't know how long it will take. So you don't know the price. Except for the baseboards, his questions would have been valid then not now. Now he's stuck in damage control before he picks up a brush.

Sorry for highlighting a mistake but I believe Tendrin's skin is tough. I'm sure he can take some crap. Bidding the job is just as important as the painting. And I do like to read my own words.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Daren*

You are full of S***.....I bid on the contract the way I usually do,and that has made me very good money....I could easily do this job with a brush and roller and spray the ceilings...I've done that for 20 years...

My question was one of using a different method to make the job a little quicker,hence the topic of "spray painting"....Either you can't read very well to understand the post or you are just a jerk...GFY


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

gotta love internet balls


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I have to say I agree with daren. I don't think he is looking for attention. Tedrin you are the one speaking out of control. Daren had a simple question just as tedrin had. I don't think he was trying to make him look stupid. He made himsellf look stupid, by posting himself as a painter for 20 yrs and then asking if he should paint over caulking or how should he spray, right down to what tip sizes. To me it looks as if tedrin is a DIY or a handyman.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*Ewing*

You can't read either...This is a topic on SPRAY PAINTING....I'm anexpert in the brush and roll of re-paints...Can you understand the difference?,,,,Read the post again if you failed to comprehend the thread and follow-up responses...You pick a red herring(the caulking) out of everything and make a judgement in regards to my painting expertise...That is a mistake...I'm very highly regarded in my niche of high end repaints...Daren is obviously a guy with low self esteem and needs to put others down to elevate his own self worth...So be it.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

*also Ewing*

you made yourself look stupid when you failed to realise that all professional painters are not necessarily sprayers!...lol

I made a decision early on to brush and roll because of health reasons...I've seen the way sprayers look (think and breath)after years of inhaling that crap...I will spray only when absolutely necessary and when it's advantageous to me...90% of the ceilings are stippled or textured in my region and I usually roll the flat ones...That's why I asked for the tip size for spraying flat ceilings with latex...You should have kept your mouth shut on this one.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

tedrin said:


> you made yourself look stupid when you failed to realise that all professional painters are not necessarily sprayers!...lol


:lol::blink:


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

tedrin said:


> Daren is obviously a guy with low self esteem and needs to put others down to elevate his own self worth...So be it.


This is great. I found a new signature.:thumbup:


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

tedrin said:


> You can't read either...This is a topic on SPRAY PAINTING....I'm anexpert in the brush and roll of re-paints...Can you understand the difference?,,,,Read the post again if you failed to comprehend the thread and follow-up responses...You pick a red herring(the caulking) out of everything and make a judgement in regards to my painting expertise...That is a mistake...I'm very highly regarded in my niche of high end repaints...Daren is obviously a guy with low self esteem and needs to put others down to elevate his own self worth...So be it.


OK let go over your post.:thumbsup:


tedrin said:


> I've been painting for 20 years doing mainly re-paints.


:thumbsup:


tedrin said:


> Ok,should I wait and spray the doors and door trim until after the carpenter has hung them?....


20 yrs and cant figure this out:thumbsup:


tedrin said:


> Also,the hardwood floors are going to be refinished after the painting...should I still tape around the door frames to protect the floors?...Will a floor sander get that close to the trim to remove the overspray?


20 yrs and you ask if you should protect the floors:thumbsup:


tedrin said:


> I'm also going to spray the vaulted ceilings with BM flat paint and will use a 515 Graco tip..Is that correct?


20 yrs and your not confident on what size tip to use:thumbsup:


tedrin said:


> Should I caulk the door frames where it meets the wall?...I'm using white dap alex plus,but the trim will be an off white....Finishing off the baseboards with a white caulk might show against an offwhite colour,don't you think?..Should I paint the caulking?


And for the big bang exit 
20 yrs and your asking if you should paint over caulking:clap::wallbash::thumbsup:

Your like a angry Sev.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Well.....Here's my two cents and I have been painting for over 30 years.


It is a stupid question.
If you don't paint the caulk and the putty, you are (IMHO) a hack.
That said, there are many paths to reach a destination, here's mine. (not better or worse, just my path)
Doors get taken off and we mount these brackets my father got when I was a teenager. They mount to the top and bottom of the doors and allow you to stack the doors on top of each other. (you need to paint edges first) you stick it on a sawhorse, bracket on horse, spray one side and edges, flip, spray backside and edges, helper and you pick up, set on floor away from sawhorses. (brackets keep door off floor, and have raised "V" to allow next door to be stacked on top) Grab next door and repeat.
Prime everything in room, walls, ceilings, and trim. (in fact, do this first, spraying doors while trim dries)
After primer dries, caulk and putty trim. (assuming bare wood here)
Spray ceilings.
Spray trim. (don't get on ceilings)
Tape trim to protect from spatter, cut in and roll.
So you got an answer and an opinion you probably don't want. 
:blink:


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

daren said:


> This is great. I found a new signature.:thumbup:


 
So have I, thanks ewing!


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

This thread has turned.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Where's Bill!


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> This thread has turned.


It turned from post 1, it should have been closed from the get go with the advice to go to the DIY web site.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The sad fact here is: If we have to build ourselves up by beating up on someone, that makes everyone look bad.Does this mean that one guy is worth more because he dosent have to ask as many questions. I would reather be around someone that is willing to ask questions than play like he has all the answers.Who is the one that really needs help here anyway?Some kinds of needs are easer meet that others. I this I would side with the guy that is not afread of asking, than the one that is afraid that we may find out he does have something to hide.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

ewingpainting.net said:


> It turned from post 1, it should have been closed from the get go with the advice to go to the DIY web site.


I post there as well so he could of gotten my great advice at either location. I believe he makes his money in this trade though. Either way i think this thread is about played out.


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## Boden Painting (Dec 27, 2007)

I'll try and redirect/hijack this thread to ask a serious question about spraying.

I also do a lot of new construction but usually only spray primer and ceilings and doors(which I pull and spray in a room I've set-up). Do you guys really find it cost effective to paper off the entire floor and windows to spray trim? The problem I found I had with doing this was that all of the houses I do have nice hardwood floors and having to buy rolls of rosin paper to cover the floors in a 5000sq/ft +/- house gets expensive. Also I've found that no matter how hard I try I've not found a good way to get a tight/efficient seal around the door casings or shoe. Seems like there is always a few spots where the paint gets under the paper somehow. 

As for windows, do you just spray the walls as well or do you paper those off as well. Once again the number of houses I do that have picture framed trim is far less then the ones I do that have capitals or some other tricked out head. In the past when I've tried to spray trim in a house I've just oversprayed onto the wall and then cut it back in to cover but there are some cases where you can see the texture of the underlying overspray.
In dealing with sashes, do you plastic off the glass or just spray/scrape and how do you handle the little detail parts of the sash that are covered when the window is closed and overlapping? What about the mechanics of the window on the sides. Seems to me that by the time I tape everything off I could have put a coat on by brush already. Am I missing something?

I would love to hear that I'm doing something wrong or missing something because I love spraying trim and the way it comes out but the front end prep doesn't seem to justify it. tips? advice?

here's a picture of a room I did spray.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

What's really best is what gets the job done in the most cost effective and efficient manner while pleasing the customer. Only you can decide what works best for you. Not the answer you are looking for, but still the truth.

I'd tell the builder, you can save him a few dollars while providing a better looking job (spraying the trim) if you can get in before the floors are down. 

That room looks great. Did you spray that trim?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Like you i do not spray my windows except for headers that are built. I normally get in before the flooring goes down, everynow and then the hardwood gets in before i do and i use paper and tape around the jambs. I then take shingles and lay them out around the base. All the normal dusting and overspray gets sanded down from the floor.


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

*Boden*

We don't do a lot of new work, but this is how we have handled some of your questions in the past.

Windows: you can take them out, plastic off the opening, mask the windows and spray them to eliminate overlapping and to paint all parts. This method does not work in the winter. Or mask off the sash, spray extension jambs and casings, and do sash by hand.

Base: Get in there before the floor guys, spray one coat on base, spray one coat on shoe before it goes up, apply one or two coats to base and shoe once it is up by brush. 

Obviously these steps will give a spray finish and a brush finish that may not be desirable on high end homes and should be discussed with the builder/HO. If you are good with a brush the difference is not very noticeable.

Hope this helps:thumbsup:


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

Oh, a quick sanding around casings will eliminate the texture/sheen flash or a weenie roller with some primer. Stay tight with your spray pattern.


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## Boden Painting (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks for the posts. It was kinda what I was expecting in the way of answers. Unfortunately most of the time the floor guys lay the floor and put a coat on it before the doors are hung and trim done so that isn't really an option for me, I wish it were.

In the past I have sprayed casings and ext.jams and brushed sashes, seems like that may still be the quickest route for me.

Thanks for the advice.


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## slapiton (Jul 28, 2007)

Setting the doors up in a large room is the only way to go. I use elastomeric caulk only by sherwin williams.That Alex junk is crap.I caulk all my houses after they have been painted and they look as good the day I left.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

slapiton said:


> Setting the doors up in a large room is the only way to go. I use elastomeric caulk only by sherwin williams.That Alex junk is crap.I caulk all my houses after they have been painted and they look as good the day I left.


 
Doesn't the overspray create a large dust cloud in the room and create a problem with the other doors?..Don't they get a sandpaper like texture from the dusting?


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

slapiton said:


> Setting the doors up in a large room is the only way to go. I use elastomeric caulk only by sherwin williams.That Alex junk is crap.I caulk all my houses after they have been painted and they look as good the day I left.


 
Why specifically don't you like about the Dap,Alex plus?....They don't sell SW caulk in my area and the choices are minimal.....I find that the DAP doesn't flow evenly and there is a bit of drying with the older tubes...


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## cullybear (Mar 10, 2008)

As I posted on the other thread I had that same problem spraying in one big room. We spray in one room and move them to another. I wish I had a big spray booth for it with fans but the hassle of hauling them back and forth would be very time consuming


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Another reason to use hinge mags! You can paint the doors and trim in place.


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## Daddyoh2008 (Oct 27, 2008)

*baseboards*



daren said:


> I was talking about one room but if you must know I have done the base boards in a 6000 sq ft house in 4 hours. :^P


Wow. Really? Free hand or spraying? Free hand - no real prep, but can a mere human move that fast? Spraying - are ou counting time for someone to run ahead of you masking?


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## Daddyoh2008 (Oct 27, 2008)

slamman190 said:


> We do tons of new construction, and the easiest way to spray doors is to set them up in the largest room. This should be a snap for you because you are painting the ceilings, so paint the doors first and you won't have to worry about dusting the ceiling with the trim paint. If the ceilings are not getting painted, large pieces of cardboard from hardwood boxes or bifold boxes on top of the doors work as great as shields.
> 
> We us long pieces of scrap wood to nail together the doors standing up in long rows. Lay the scrap wood on the top of the doors and the doors stand quite nicely. Also be sure to put wood underneath the doors so that they are not directly on the floor. It is much nicer to be able to spray the doors in a row, and not have to worry about them swinging on hinges, or getting in the way when you spray the door frames.
> 
> when doing ceilings we always paint the walls one top coat, or at least a cut, then poly the walls and spray the ceilings. This allows your first cut to be super fast as it doesn't matter if you cut onto the ceiling, and when you pull the poly down you get nice straight lines that makes second cut a breeze.


When you line up doors in a big room and spray them, are you able to reinstall doors same day? Why do you set the doors on top of something? (Unless you are protecting the floor, which I don't think you are doing)


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

Daddyoh2008 said:


> Wow. Really? Free hand or spraying? Free hand - no real prep, but can a mere human move that fast? Spraying - are ou counting time for someone to run ahead of you masking?


 
He said free hand with a brush..And with hardwood floors...LOL


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

tedrin said:


> He said free hand with a brush..And with hardwood floors...LOL


Tedrin, do you lol at every thing. I have a feeling your one of those guys that starts to laugh before the punch line of a joke. 

Ha Ha lol :jester:


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

tedrin said:


> Doesn't the overspray create a large dust cloud in the room and create a problem with the other doors?..Don't they get a sandpaper like texture from the dusting?


Dude dude dude:blink:


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

ewingpainting.net said:


> Tedrin, do you lol at every thing. I have a feeling your one of those guys that starts to laugh before the punch line of a joke.
> 
> Ha Ha lol :jester:


 
Ewing you little troll...You obviously have a massive inferiority complex....You reek of failure and lonliness.


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## tedrin (Oct 22, 2008)

Bender said:


> Dude dude dude:blink:


 
Bender, do you just like to copy and Paste?....This board if filled with weirdos...I'm a little creeped out by some of you.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> this thread is about played out.


I agree. And the original question has been answered several times too.


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