# Safest coating over oil based trim



## Pete's Painting (Mar 5, 2008)

I'm working on an older home on rain days. The doors, windows, trim is oil, and it's a dark color compared to the white I'll be switching to. 

I'm stripping wallpaper off the walls, so i'll be using an oil-based primer on those, and I'm looking for a short cut. Go over the trim also when priming the walls or? HO doesn't care, if the trim stays oil or I switch to latex. They are leaving it up to me. Obviously a whole lot of sanding will be involved. Curious as to what others would do.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

If you are going to top caot with oil anyway,why prime? If you are switching to latex,yes,prime.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Oil over oil, just prep no prime
Not a shortcut per say, it just is


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

Depends on what you want to do and how much they want to spend....obviously, the latex over oil will take longer with the additional prep (sanding/priming).

I don't care for oil due to the use of solvents but would personally just go back w/oil if I knew for a fact that the surface was painted with oil already.

SW told me their Pro Classic could go over oil without any prep but I'd be very hesitant to try it that way....

Jeremy


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## greensboro84 (Feb 15, 2008)

Duron Signature is supposed to go right over oil, I think. We've done it in rental units, but it's usually the same shade of shell or antique white.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Masterpiece said:


> SW told me their Pro Classic could go over oil without any prep...





greensboro84 said:


> Duron Signature is supposed to go right over oil...


I've also had a BM rep say the same thing about WB Impervo

Guess what?
As always:
Might stick....might not


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I just started re-running my waterborne over high gloss oil unsanded adhesion test with Aura, WB Impervo, and Graham. Last time, Cabinet Coat and Graham stuck great, WB impervo failed. We will see how it goes this time.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

DeanV said:


> I just started re-running my waterborne over high gloss oil unsanded adhesion test with Aura, WB Impervo, and Graham. Last time, Cabinet Coat and Graham stuck great, WB impervo failed. We will see how it goes this time.


please do, this could save a lot of us a lot of time


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

Duron Signature is supposed to go right over oil, 

The rep's have told me yes, with a light sanding and cleaning first, same with BM satin impervo. I do not think it is wise to go over any existing oil finish without at least scuffing it up first.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

DeanV said:


> I just started re-running my waterborne over high gloss oil unsanded adhesion test with Aura, WB Impervo, and Graham. Last time, Cabinet Coat and Graham stuck great, WB impervo failed. We will see how it goes this time.


The problem is there needs to be many, many, tests
The thing is...it might stick (might not)
One or two cabinet doors does not constitute a confirmation
A dozen might


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

the most important step>>>>>wash the trim with strong solution of tsp

this will remove any contaminants, and etch the surface 

and id be using a material like gardz for the walls, not oil,,,that stuff will kill you.


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

johnthepainter said:


> and id be using a material like gardz for the walls, not oil,,,that stuff will kill you.


 :yes: I agree.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

John, do you have any problems with rinsing TSP clean enough on an interior job? I had always heard that TSP was not for interior because of the difficulty in rinsing it clear. Do you still need to sand the oil or does the TSP thoroughly degloss the trim?


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

I have heard that the rinse free stuff rinses off much easier, it is less powerful though. I would think a quick pass with a sanding sponge, tsp-pf-rf wash, thorough rinse you would be set.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

You know, I have been looking at this thread for a few days and thinking about it. We recently did a remod job on an old house that had oil trim. We scuffed that crap out of it and put Ben Moore Waterborne Impervo over it successfully. It was not an inexpensive undertaking, and with old oil trim, you rarely end up with perfection anyways. 

Looking back, I think to answer the original question in the thread, the safest, and probably easiest answer is to stick with oil. It would probably be the least amount of prep and messing around to just go with it.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

dean,,,,i always rinse the tsp

and yes,,,,,,if its a strong enough solution, it ETCHES the old paint

just take care and protect adjacent surfaces,,,,,i just use cellulose sponges, and maybe a stiff bristled brush,,,,,,youll clean that old trim so well, the customers will think they dont need a paint job anymore,,lol (that actually happened twice)

it makes painting interior trim bearable for me,,,,,its very self serving

no dust, no dog hair, no fish eye,,,and its got some tooth


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i use it to re-varnish also


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## cadchick (May 21, 2008)

Personally Id stick with Oil & Oil = theres a reason why they say oil & water dont mix! 

I havent had great success in any jobs personal or pro with latex over oil. My current client is PISSED that the painter prior to me didnt discuss with her the choices that her 50 yrs + house finishes had. And now even primed and latex - all the areas that I would have done in oil are now scratching and peeling and it hasnt even been moved into as of yet!


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

I have been using porter's advantage 900 for 3 years over oil. It is a modified acrylic. I have had zero adhesion problems and zero customer complaints. Any time that I can use a water based product I will. I'm tired of frying my brain.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

preach on brother daren, preach on,,,,,,,


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

ive been painting acrylic latex over oil for years now, and have had zero adhesion problems

i switch everyone over to acrylic latex

if you are experiencing adhesion problems, its your own fault

no need to prime either

wash it well, some scuffing, and a high quality acrylic latex

no callbacks, no solvent induced headaches


dean and slickshift>>>>>i wouldnt use impervo wb for this,,,,imo that stuff has poor adhesion,,,,i use graham ceramic, duration home, and aura


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## ccpainting (Oct 17, 2007)

i've used advantage 900 over oil


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## capitalcity painting (Apr 28, 2008)

Ive used advantage 900 before and it worked great. I will actually be using it for the 2nd time tomorrow. It is twice the product as pro classic. If you want to use SW then Duration home has worked for me before. I have used Duration exterior on oil base interior trim before too. Does anyone know a disadvantage to using exterior inside?


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

duration exterior on interior trim?????

say goodbye to caulking,,,lol,,,,


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

I may have to try some of the Porter 900 for some experimenting on sample trim in the garage....

I happened to have some Porter 100% acrylic wb interior primer I received to try out for free. We were doing the painting in a high end remodel/insurance job that had some original poly'd stained trim. I wasn't expecting much, but even after sitting 2 hours, the primer could easily be scratched off w/a fingernail....

Jeremy


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

With the modified acrylics, they stick better the longer they sit. They have to cured a couple of weeks.


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