# Millwork Monster



## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

It's an 8yo repaint, all walls, ceilings, doors, and millwork. The original millwork paint was sprayed and back brushed BM SuperSpec Semi-gloss alkyd. The hand rail is stained black. So far we masked, prepped and sprayed the millwork in the main entry and hallways. The house is occupied, so we are breaking it up into several pieces. I'll try to post some better pics as things progress. These pics were taken on casual Friday.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Looks like a fun job! 

What product are you using Advance?


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> Looks like a fun job! What product are you using Advance?


I wish we could be using advanced! The home owner preferred us to use the same paint, SS alkyd semi, thinned with about 6-8 ounces of naphtha per gallon. It sprayed very nice, although there is a massive amount of yellowing noticeable in the closets (we aren't painting).


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

What does the naphtha do? Speed drying?


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Jmayspaint said:


> What does the naphtha do? Speed drying?


It's what I've always used to thin alkyds for better spraying leveling. It's no hotter than mineral sprits, but it evaporates quicker.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

The guys were happy that it was Friday and that they had successfully finished spraying the most challenging part of the house


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

What do you do about the overspray on the walls? Do you ever have a problem with adhesion of the wall paint or flashing?

Looks great:thumbsup:


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

Bender said:


> What do you do about the overspray on the walls? Do you ever have a problem with adhesion of the wall paint or flashing? Looks great:thumbsup:


 They are going to lamp, fill and sand all the walls. Then they will mask and clear seal the tape around the millwork. Finally two coats of regal select eggshell, never had adhesion or flashing problems (yet, knock in wood).


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

I love the double arch in the first pic and the head casings above the doors! Time to buy stock in 3M or whatever company you get your tape, plastic, and paper from.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I don't take on work like this...I don't have the manpower or spray experience to "learn" on the job...haha. However, I just love when you guys who do this work (especially stair areas) post some pictures. Great-looking work and, yes, I am jealous!


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

SemiproJohn said:


> I don't take on work like this...I don't have the manpower or spray experience to "learn" on the job...haha. However, I just love when you guys who do this work (especially stair areas) post some pictures. Great-looking work and, yes, I am jealous!


Stuff like this isn't hard to do (hard to price and make a decent buck). When I comes to the spraying aspect of it what I did when I was trying to figure it out was bring the gun back away from the substrate because it's a whole lot easier to put more paint on, then try and fix it. The more comfortable I got the closer I got with the spray gun, and the faster I got at doing these things. I a kin this to spraying doors for the first couple of times.

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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> What does the naphtha do? Speed drying?


VM&P Naptha is slower drying than regular PT, but a much finer thinner. Think 87 vs 92 octane gas.

Naptha 100 is a much faster drying solvent than the two above.

Quiz: Anyone know what VM&P stands for?

Awesome job, there!!


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Looks great so far.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

journeymanPainter said:


> Stuff like this isn't hard to do (hard to price and make a decent buck). When I comes to the spraying aspect of it what I did when I was trying to figure it out was bring the gun back away from the substrate because it's a whole lot easier to put more paint on, then try and fix it. The more comfortable I got the closer I got with the spray gun, and the faster I got at doing these things. I a kin this to spraying doors for the first couple of times.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


Honestly its not the actual spraying that is the hard part. Usually I can train someone to spray pretty easily. Its the cleaning, sanding, masking, set up, job sequencing, clean up site, occupied space that gives you the most problems. 

Oh and making a profit. :whistling2:


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

MikeCalifornia said:


> VM&P Naptha is slower drying than regular PT, but a much finer thinner. Think 87 vs 92 octane gas. Naptha 100 is a much faster drying solvent than the two above. Quiz: Anyone know what VM&P stands for? Awesome job, there!!


Are you sure that Varnish makers & painters Naptha is slower drying than mineral spirits?


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> Are you sure that Varnish makers & painters Naptha is slower drying than mineral spirits?


I thought it was to make whatever your using set up faster? I could be mistaken, I've only used it once, and it was for epoxy

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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

Naptha evaporates faster then mineral spirits. i use it only for spraying though. i like it cause you can do a light dusting coat wait a second and do a nice heavy pass for even coverage.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

straight_lines said:


> Honestly its not the actual spraying that is the hard part. Usually I can train someone to spray pretty easily. Its the cleaning, sanding, masking, set up, job sequencing, clean up site, occupied space that gives you the most problems. Oh and making a profit. :whistling2:


The most challenging area is where the wall returns into the stair rail on the top 4-5 treads. There you have chiseled treads, very tightly spaced balusters, and a slightly curved wall with a base moulding, top moulding and triangular GWB 2-3 inches behind the balusters, or where the stair rail and upper terrace rail overlap. Setting up doors was a challenge because the only space suitable in the work area, was the main entry where we needed to run around with an extension ladder to reach the crown, window and columns. We had to break up the spraying in two different sessions to make it all work. Plus we layered paper on the floor, so we could remove the top layer, allowing the family to walk through the work zone without tracking paint into the adjacent clean areas. This job is t&m, so profits are meh, but at least I don't have to worry about losing my ass every night.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

i will have to show pics of the doors i am spray painting tommorow. They are already hung with black hinges. Gc wont let me pop them off but they look better sprayed with regal select then when cut n rolled.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

No, your right, Naptha is faster. Naptha 100 is even faster, but I think that one is for coversion varnish.


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## Monstertruck (Oct 26, 2013)

ExcelPaintingCo said:


> The most challenging area is where the wall returns into the stair rail on the top 4-5 treads. There you have chiseled treads, very tightly spaced balusters, and a slightly curved wall with a base moulding, top moulding and triangular GWB 2-3 inches behind the balusters, or where the stair rail and upper terrace rail overlap. Setting up doors was a challenge because the only space suitable in the work area, was the main entry where we needed to run around with an extension ladder to reach the crown, window and columns. We had to break up the spraying in two different sessions to make it all work. Plus *we layered paper on the floor, so we could remove the top layer, allowing the family to work through the work zone without tracking paint into the adjacent clean areas. *This job is t&m, so profits are meh, but at least I don't have to worry about losing my ass every night.


Nice!:thumbup:

Always a bummer when space is tight for doing doors.

T&M means you and your crew are working on a quality project with no risk.
There's something to be said for that.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

Awesome work! I bet you're glad its t&m! Is it casual Friday because they're wearing jeans? Nice pics! 



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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Looks great. Do you ever paint 1"-2" of the wall color around all of the perimeter where the woodwork meets the wall, then blue tape over it, spray the woodwork, unmask the blue tape, and you've got razor-sharp wall-to-wood contrast lines? Walls can then just be rolled, rather than cutting/rolling. Saves time and perfect lines...best of both worlds.


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## ExcelPaintingCo (Apr 16, 2011)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> Looks great. Do you ever paint 1"-2" of the wall color around all of the perimeter where the woodwork meets the wall, then blue tape over it, spray the woodwork, unmask the blue tape, and you've got razor-sharp wall-to-wood contrast lines? Walls can then just be rolled, rather than cutting/rolling. Saves time and perfect lines...best of both worlds.


I have never tried that system. It's sounds interesting though. Is tape enough, or do you mean tape+paper? It seems like tape only would get buried in overspray and create an indented line when removed.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

If you masked two 2" borders, that should suffice, unless you're having a guy do it who can't start/stop within that 4" border, in which case, you'd also have to paper, which might not make it desirable for your system. After you unmask the tape, any abrupt edges could be quickly knocked-down with a rag and thinner, as long as it wasn't too heavy. 

For me though, even having to paper is worth it, since we just fold the paper down over the woodwork after the trim is sprayed, when we're rolling final coat on walls. Still eliminates time cutting in, and provides perfect contrast lines. 


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