# How to spray?



## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Ok guys, this question may get me kicked off the island, but as some of you may know my main 'thing' is working on older homes. I bought my first sprayer this year for a few exteriors. (Graco 695) Working on older interiors doesn't often lend itself to spray work.

I finally have an opportunity to try it indoors. A 25X25 garage. Ceiling white and a taupe on the walls. I can easily show up with a bucket and a roller and be gone in hours, but I want to practice my spraying. 

So my question is: are there options for the transition between ceiling and wall or is tape the only option? Is back rolling a must? 

Do you have a system for clean up? It takes me painfully long. 

Thanks for any advise...hope you let me play in the sandbox asking this??


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

I would spray the ceiling and roll the walls. I would think for the time it would take to tape the ceiling, you could have it cut already. Also the cut looks better with rolled walls.

Pat


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## MNpainter (Jul 17, 2008)

PatsPainting said:


> I would spray the ceiling and roll the walls. I would think for the time it would take to tape the ceiling, you could have it cut already. Also the cut looks better with rolled walls.
> 
> Pat


:yes::yes::yes:


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

PatsPainting said:


> I would spray the ceiling and roll the walls. I would think for the time it would take to tape the ceiling, you could have it cut already. Also the cut looks better with rolled walls.
> 
> Pat


Thanks, I agree 100%. 

Like I say, I could be in and out in hours with a roller, but want to play with my toy. :thumbsup:

I should mention that the customer is away for two weeks, garage is empty and I'm currently doing a daycare in the evenings, so I'm not all that horny about getting in and out asap.

This is more an opportunity to learn some more rather than production time.


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## dvp (Jun 21, 2010)

i do the same, if the colors are close ill spray the wall too and cut in the with a brush. i use a 6" wand it keeps down on overspray and extends my reach.

for cleanup i pull the filter out of the pump and put the snorkle and the prime line in a bucket of clean water and let it cycle through the prime line for a few minutes. then go with another bucket of clean water and just put the snorkle in untill it comes out the prime line clean. then i change to the spay line untill clean, then put the tip back, in blow it out and spray out the filter. sounds complicated but takes 10-15 minutes.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Thanks, I agree 100%.
> 
> Like I say, I could be in and out in hours with a roller, but want to play with my toy. :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


I hear ya, are the walls going to require two coats? if so you might be able to spray the ceiling and practice on seeing how high you can go with out getting any overspray on the ceiling. 

I know its exciting when you get a new rig, you can't wait to try it out. I just picked up a airlessco 540 with a few ff tips. The problem is I don't have anything to spray for a few weeks 

Pat


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

You could spray the ceilings and then experiment with some shields when you spray the wall or you could spray the walls and then come back and plastic them and then spray your ceilings. Either way I would back roll for sure. 

What I do is spray the ceilings and then cut and roll the walls.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

PatsPainting said:


> I hear ya, are the walls going to require two coats? if so you might be able to spray the ceiling and practice on seeing how high you can go with out getting any overspray on the ceiling.
> 
> I know its exciting when you get a new rig, you can't wait to try it out. I just picked up a airlessco 540 with a few ff tips. The problem is I don't have anything to spray for a few weeks
> 
> Pat


Tell us what you think of the Airlessco. I switched over to them a few years ago myself.


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## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Wolfgang said:


> Tell us what you think of the Airlessco. I switched over to them a few years ago myself.


I have had a airlessco 450 for the last 5 years or so and freaking loved that thing. It never once let me down. Had a opportunity to pick up a 540 for $550 - was rented 20 times from the paint store I go to. So I'm a little excited about using it. I also have a binks wasp that has been sitting in my garage for about 7 years or so, selling it in craigslist right now. Not sure to many people will be interested in it due to its age. Still fired up and sprayed water after sitting for 7 years 

Pat


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

I keep a pair of 2.5 gallon cut pails with my sprayer. Way less time getting the water level high enough for the pump to siphon out of than filling a fiver. One for dirty water and one for clean. Takes about as long to clean the sprayer as it does to clean a brush.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

If you must spray walls and ceilings you would spray walls. Then mask with either plastic sheeting 48 or 72 ish or if you're good enough with the gun 12" paper. 

Pretty much 95% of the time you can roll the walls faster than the masking would take. Especially if you're using labor. The masking costs $5.00 and someone has to put it up or the labor costs $10.00 and the paint is self applied for your average average 10x10 room.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

If it's just practice, hose out the lid and the walls. If you have two weeks, let it set up then hit it again.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

I would PM RCP. I am not sure they own a brush and their work looks perfect! They appear to be in and out of homes with a sprayer mostly. I am almost ready to paint my new house and I am strongly considering an attempt to spray it like RCP does.....for practice! Just deciding on what sprayer I will buy.


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

If you are going to spray a garage ceiling, I assume the garage doors are in. You better mask the garage doors and the metal it slides up on when it is open. I would also cover the floor with plastic because you will get drift on the floor regardless. You should be able to spray the ceiling with flat paint (without rolling) one time if you cross hatch it regardless if if its a textured or flat ceiling. After that, trim in your walls and spray down and backroll. The one thing a newbie should watch out for when spraying down is that you round off in the corners when youre spraying with your gun. Most new people wont and you will have overspray in every corner on the ceiling. If you dont tape your plastic to the floor when you are spraying your ceiling, get some cardboard and use it when your are spraying your sidewalls to protect the floor.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

PatsPainting said:


> I have had a airlessco 450 for the last 5 years or so and freaking loved that thing. It never once let me down. Had a opportunity to pick up a 540 for $550 - was rented 20 times from the paint store I go to. So I'm a little excited about using it. I also have a binks wasp that has been sitting in my garage for about 7 years or so, selling it in craigslist right now. Not sure to many people will be interested in it due to its age. Still fired up and sprayed water after sitting for 7 years
> 
> Pat


Binks, another great brand. You know, the head engineer from Binks went to work for Airlessco many years ago ( no idea if he's still there ) Look at the Binks and Airlessco side by side.....I bet you'll notice some similarity :yes: Binks pumps are dinosaurs, but they were built to last. Many of them are older than me, and still being used today, the only problem now is parts availability. 

You'll love the Airlessco. You can spray at very low PSI with almost no "ticking" ( pattern changes ) giving you excellent control and minimal over spray.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> So my question is: are there options for the transition between ceiling and wall or is tape the only option? Is back rolling a must?


As already mentioned, its hard to beat the line you get with a brush if theres a lot of contrast between the walls and ceiling. The plastic shields work really good on interiors because you can drag them down the wall the same time as the gun. Does take some practice though. As for back rolling? I feel I always get a better job if I back roll.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Woodland said:


> As for back rolling? I feel I always get a better job if I back roll.


Thats because you can touch up :thumbsup:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

All great advice,but you guys know we love to spray! I'm not sure I'm following you guys who are suggesting to spray(ceilings or walls) then mask off with tape & or plastic?????? How do you do that with wet paint?? Are you coming back the next day? Sitting around waiting for it to dry??
Just doesn't make sense to me!
Invest in spray shields & or card board.We use allot and I have no problem buying new spray shields.Once they are bent or have to much paint build up they become counter productive.
They're only about $20 and worth every dime. 
We usually have a rotation system.Keep a bucket of water & clean rags near by at all times!
We you use 1 till it needs to be cleaned,clean & dry it,sit it to the side,grab the other one.Always clean & dry both sides!!
We would spray the ceiling shielding the walls,then crank up a fan while your switching the sprayer over to the wall color.
Now your ready to do the walls.
Always work spraying down,away from the ceiling.This will keep the paint from dusting the ceiling.
Shield the ceiling but not right in the corner because that will probably still be wet.
Come down the wall about a 1/4 inch.Spray your walls out,crank up the fan,clean your sprayer then cut your ceiling line & collect your check!!


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> I would PM RCP. I am not sure they own a brush and their work looks perfect! They appear to be in and out of homes with a sprayer mostly. I am almost ready to paint my new house and I am strongly considering an attempt to spray it like RCP does.....for practice! Just deciding on what sprayer I will buy.


Thanks, Jeff. Rob does seem to have a good system down! Although he does have quite the collection of Purdy brushes, he does mostly spray. Watching him spray is pretty neat, he can be pretty graceful!

I think a lot of it is just years of practice, he says " I become one with the gun", I know, pretty corny, but when I see one of the other guys spray, you can see it! 
And he will be the first to admit that the excellent masking done by the crew has a lot to do with it.

What he does is this:
Spray ceilings two coats in a cross hatch pattern.
Spray walls same way, letting some of the wall color hit the ceiling
Run blue tape along top of wall, just below ceiling
Run the plastic/tape combo with masker and attach to blue tape
Spray perimeter of ceiling to cover overspray

I asked Rob one time why he did that way and he said it is easier to paint the full ceilings in a house without the plastic in the way, and if you are spraying two coats against the plastic, it can get heavy and pull plastic. 
He usually does this very last and the doors are back up as well.

Now where it was just the garage, seems it would be easier to just spray the walls, mask them and do the ceiling. But Rob is off fishing, so I am just speculating!


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Blow and go fishing? Smart guy..


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Retired said:


> Blow and go fishing? Smart guy..


Gotta have your priorities straight!:yes:


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> All great advice,but you guys know we love to spray! I'm not sure I'm following you guys who are suggesting to spray(ceilings or walls) then mask off with tape & or plastic?????? How do you do that with wet paint?? Are you coming back the next day? Sitting around waiting for it to dry??
> Just doesn't make sense to me!
> Invest in spray shields & or card board.We use allot and I have no problem buying new spray shields.Once they are bent or have to much paint build up they become counter productive.
> They're only about $20 and worth every dime.
> ...


If you need to get the plastic picked up right away after spraying you can. I know some painters dont like to get paint on them, but if you want to leave bad enough you will pull the plastic or paper. If you are careful, you wont get paint on the floor or garage door if you pull the plastic off right even if there is paint on it.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

CK_68847 said:


> If you need to get the plastic picked up right away after spraying you can. I know some painters dont like to get paint on them, but if you want to leave bad enough you will pull the plastic or paper. If you are careful, you wont get paint on the floor or garage door if you pull the plastic off right even if there is paint on it.


I'm not talking about picking up plastic.
I was refering to the posts that suggest putting tape,paper & or plastic on a surface you just painted:blink:
It is a garage...it would probably take you 15 minutes to spray the ceiling,15 minutes to switch to wall color.Now what??
I don't think you will be taping wet paint


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

aaron61 said:


> I'm not talking about picking up plastic.
> I was refering to the posts that suggest putting tape,paper & or plastic on a surface you just painted:blink:
> It is a garage...it would probably take you 15 minutes to spray the ceiling,15 minutes to switch to wall color.Now what??
> I don't think you will be taping wet paint


That is why post #7 was so awesome. :whistling2:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Yes....#7 is awesome.Although I don't think I'd bother with back rolling a garage re-paint.This is a re-paint right??


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## CK_68847 (Apr 17, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> All great advice,but you guys know we love to spray! I'm not sure I'm following you guys who are suggesting to spray(ceilings or walls) then mask off with tape & or plastic?????? How do you do that with wet paint?? Are you coming back the next day? Sitting around waiting for it to dry??
> Just doesn't make sense to me!
> Invest in spray shields & or card board.We use allot and I have no problem buying new spray shields.Once they are bent or have to much paint build up they become counter productive.
> They're only about $20 and worth every dime.
> ...


My bad I get where you are coming from. You are right work your way from ceiling to floor. You are losing time and wasting money on plastic by doing your walls first and masking it off.


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## Masterpainter (Aug 14, 2010)

I have always sprayed my ceilings. Then I will go through and spray all my trim, cuz nothin looks as good as a sprayed door in my opinion. Then I usually brush and roll the walls. But that is just my one opinion, different things work for different people.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Masterpainter said:


> I have always sprayed my ceilings. Then I will go through and spray all my trim, cuz nothin looks as good as a sprayed door in my opinion. Then I usually brush and roll the walls. But that is just my one opinion, different things work for different people.


That's great! but you guys are missing the point of the OP....Its a Garage & he wants to practice spraying!!


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## Masterpainter (Aug 14, 2010)

I agree with you 100%. However I do think that his question was loaded just a bit, and was also kinda trying to get some ideas for future spray applications as well. So for in the future, sometimes it may not be new construction, but in a remodel where there is just plywood on the floor and you have the option to spray, he would want different ideas and different ways of doing things. I think that is why everyone was posting their version of how they do so that he can pick his poison. I would personally think that you would want to "practice" the way you would do in every situation so that you can perfect it so that it makes you money. :thumbup:


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Aaron, you are right, if you have to get it done in one day, shields work well.
On our NC, we set up the schedule in a way that it works.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

RCP said:


> Aaron, you are right, if you have to get it done in one day, shields work well.
> On our NC, we set up the schedule in a way that it works.


Absolutely! NC is totally different then what I was offering up as an in out project.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Now can we kick this guy off the island?


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Retired said:


> Now can we kick this guy off the island?


Hold on, just got home and saw two pages on "how to spray"....with this forum you don't know which way it'll go. 

Thanks for 'sharing the poison', I appreciate the variety of styles....good read. 

You can kick me off the island when I start asking how to fill nail holes, or how to make a profit at $99 a room. 

Maybe I'm too picky when cleaning the sprayer....took me 45 min and more than 2.5 gallons of water thats for sure. 

To me, it makes sense to over spray both ceiling and walls a bit on the first pass and get the lines straight second time round....if sticking with the sprayer. Most practical seems I should keep the roller near by....


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Keep it simple for practice. Shoot the walls first coat then shoot the ceilings being careful around the ceiling line. I like to keep the ceiling white off the walls as much as possible especially when you have a darker wall color. I often will use a 311 to cut in around the ceiling line with white. This will keep your white overspray to a minimum.

That will get your ceilings done and practice on shooting a coat on the walls. Now just brush and roll that final wall coat. The photo below was painted by a guy I worked with which is acceptable but can be done cleaner yet. For us it comes down to a compromise on time to get a prime done. Regardless, the less white you have on the walls - the better.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/jackpauhl/4894632424/


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

jack pauhl said:


> Keep it simple for practice. Shoot the walls first coat then shoot the ceilings being careful around the ceiling line. I like to keep the ceiling white off the walls as much as possible especially when you have a darker wall color. I often will use a 311 to cut in around the ceiling line with white. This will keep your white overspray to a minimum.
> 
> That will get your ceilings done and practice on shooting a coat on the walls. Now just brush and roll that final wall coat.


JP what are you doing sharing your sensitive techniques like that? :jester: Slipping? :jester:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> JP what are you doing sharing your sensitive techniques like that? :jester: Slipping? :jester:


I know! All these trade secrets are going to make his job profitable despite his practicing. Here's another.

Keep your tips in a jar of Krud Kutter. A 50/50 mix is more than enough. When using reversible tips, make sure the area where paint comes out is clean before placing it in the guard and then reverse the tip making sure the first time you pull the trigger blows any crap out rather than trying to force crap through the tip.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/jackpauhl/4894864038/


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> I know! All these trade secrets are going to make his job profitable despite his practicing. Here's another.
> 
> Keep your tips in a jar of Krud Kutter. A 50/50 mix is more than enough. When using reversible tips, make sure the area where paint comes out is clean before placing it in the guard and then reverse the tip making sure the first time you pull the trigger blows any crap out rather than trying to force crap through the tip.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the extra profit JP!.....cheque is in the mail....PW.


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## Retired (Jul 27, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Hold on, just got home and saw two pages on "how to spray"....with this forum you don't know which way it'll go.
> 
> Thanks for 'sharing the poison', I appreciate the variety of styles....good read.
> 
> ...


One step in hitting that 99 bucks a room is filling nail holes with mud and not using bottled water to clean out that pump.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Invest in spray shields & or card board.We use allot and I have no problem buying new spray shields.Once they are bent or have to much paint build up they become counter productive.


I am in the shield camp. Try this to eliminate the buildup issue on the shield though, mask it with 9 inch masking paper and blue tape. If you do it correctly you will leave a little folded tabs for each layer of paper to make for easy peeling. Put like 20 layers of complete wraps for each layer around shield and then just peel away as needed.

I just wish they would make a little bit longer shields.
Never mind I will make it myself. If anyone sees someone that looks exactly like me at Home Depot in the sheet metal and or plastic isle please slap me.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

IHATE_HOMEDEPOT said:


> I am in the shield camp. Try this to eliminate the buildup issue on the shield though, mask it with 9 inch masking paper and blue tape. If you do it correctly you will leave a little folded tabs for each layer of paper to make for easy peeling. Put like 20 layers of complete wraps for each layer around shield and then just peel away as needed.
> 
> I just wish they would make a little bit longer shields.
> Never mind I will make it myself. If anyone sees someone that looks exactly like me at Home Depot in the sheet metal and or plastic isle please slap me.


Or you could stop by a recycling dumpster and just grab some scrap cardboard for free.


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## ezpaintks (Mar 8, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> You could spray the ceilings and then experiment with some shields when you spray the wall or you could spray the walls and then come back and plastic them and then spray your ceilings. Either way I would back roll for sure.
> 
> What I do is spray the ceilings and then cut and roll the walls.


Ditto!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> All great advice,but you guys know we love to spray! I'm not sure I'm following you guys who are suggesting to spray(ceilings or walls) then mask off with tape & or plastic?????? How do you do that with wet paint?? Are you coming back the next day? Sitting around waiting for it to dry??
> Just doesn't make sense to me!
> Invest in spray shields & or card board.We use allot and I have no problem buying new spray shields.Once they are bent or have to much paint build up they become counter productive.
> They're only about $20 and worth every dime.
> ...


are you talking about int res repaints? I don't like to spray int res repaints unless: flooring is being replaced and trim is off.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

jack pauhl said:


> I know! All these trade secrets are going to make his job profitable despite his practicing. Here's another.
> 
> Keep your tips in a jar of Krud Kutter. A 50/50 mix is more than enough. When using reversible tips, make sure the area where paint comes out is clean before placing it in the guard and then reverse the tip making sure the first time you pull the trigger blows any crap out rather than trying to force crap through the tip.



Just blast the tip out with clean water after you are done cleaning the pump. No storage liquid necessary.

Or if you have to leave the pump overnight, release the pressure and leave the tip seated in it's spraying position. Dunk the end of the gun up past the housing into water.

Pick it up and spray the next morning. Only with latex of course. Works like a charm.

If you get any clogs from the paint during the day and have to reverse the tip one or more times during spraying, take out the tip, and shake the housing around in some water to clean off paint from the inside of the housing where the tip sits a couple times a day.

That paint from reversing the tip that gets built up inside the cylinder the tip seats in, is what drys and scrapes into the tip opening when reversing the tip, or just putting a tip in the housing.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I know this an old thread but just linked it in another thread so I read it again and since you are not a has been I wanted to say...




Paint and Hammer said:


> I bought my first sprayer this year for a few exteriors. (Graco 695)


Congrats on choosing that workhorse Paul. :thumbup:



Paint and Hammer said:


> Maybe I'm too picky when cleaning the sprayer....took me 45 min and more than 2.5 gallons of water thats for sure.


I take the tip housing off and spray the water out at a much quicker rate. 

One of my 695's is the premium with the auto clean but I never use it. I keep thinking I should give it another shot but I am set in my ways I guess.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> I know! All these trade secrets are going to make his job profitable despite his practicing. Here's another.
> 
> Keep your tips in a jar of Krud Kutter. A 50/50 mix is more than enough. When using reversible tips, make sure the area where paint comes out is clean before placing it in the guard and then reverse the tip making sure the first time you pull the trigger blows any crap out rather than trying to force crap through the tip.
> 
> ...


I do something similar, although I keep my spray tips in a plastic 1 quart bucket of rapid brush cleaner. Works good!


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I thought this tip below was clean because it was blowing clear water. This is why I keep them in a jar now. Even though I would get tips to pass clear water, every now and then I would throw a tip in the guard and pull the trigger and its blocked. Just got tired of fooling with blocked tips so now they always stay wet.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

jack pauhl said:


> I thought this tip below was clean because it was blowing clear water. This is why I keep them in a jar now. Even though I would get tips to pass clear water, every now and then I would throw a tip in the guard and pull the trigger and its blocked. Just got tired of fooling with blocked tips so now they always stay wet.


Mine stay wet too, just in rapid brush cleaner not krud kutter.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

i keep most of mine in lacquer thinner


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Do you have a system for clean up? It takes me painfully long.
> 
> Thanks for any advise...hope you let me play in the sandbox asking this??


I take painfully long to clean my sprayer too. I have two gracos, one of which I bought in 2003. I shot a guy's ceilings for him in a house he was building and another contractor commented that it looked new. At that time it was about 5 years old. He asked if I was a paint contractor since all the ones he's seen are covered in layers of paint. 

I had it rebuilt and the guy told me jokingly I was way too hard on my rig and need to give it more TLC!

I know the outer housing doesn't make it perform better but why not clean the whole thing while you're squatted down by it?


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## stevesonsiteservices (Jan 24, 2012)

All I have to say and trust me on this. Now that you have a sprayer you need to go buy the 3M hand masker. It takes a lot of getting used to but once you master it you can mask off rooms in no time. For me it takes me 1 hour to clean my sprayer. But that's because I baby all my tools and take all the filters out and clean them and spit shine all the parts. The masker and sprayer are defeinitly money makers, sure has made me a lot more money. It took a lot more time mastering the hand masker than the sprayer did.:thumbsup:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

stevesonsiteservices said:


> All I have to say and trust me on this. Now that you have a sprayer you need to go buy the 3M hand masker. It takes a lot of getting used to but once you master it you can mask off rooms in no time. For me it takes me 1 hour to clean my sprayer. But that's because I baby all my tools and take all the filters out and clean them and spit shine all the parts. The masker and sprayer are defeinitly money makers, sure has made me a lot more money. It took a lot more time mastering the hand masker than the sprayer did.:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get one of these 3M TA-20 maskers to use with the M3000. You can lay tape with it but it works great like having a scotch tape dispenser so you'll never have to pick or look for the start of the tape on the roll. The TA-20 makes masking with the M3000 super fast. You can pull all your tack-in-place pieces off it.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

stevesonsiteservices said:


> All I have to say and trust me on this. Now that you have a sprayer you need to go buy the 3M hand masker. It takes a lot of getting used to but once you master it you can mask off rooms in no time. For me it takes me 1 hour to clean my sprayer. But that's because I baby all my tools and take all the filters out and clean them and spit shine all the parts. The masker and sprayer are defeinitly money makers, sure has made me a lot more money. It took a lot more time mastering the hand masker than the sprayer did.:thumbsup:


wow an hour ,takes me about 5-10 mins and that depends on how far i gotta go for water


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

The end of this thread has turned into how to mask.

If you don't become proficient at basic painting skills "brushing and rolling" all that's left is spraying.

In the past few years so many painters have more masking skills than brush and roll skills, this saddens me.

For 2 reasons the ones that mask and spray have to so they can compete.

And you should be as good with a brush and roller as you are with a masker. So many these days are not. In my humble opinion.


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## wills fresh coat (Nov 17, 2011)

robladd said:


> The end of this thread has turned into how to mask.
> 
> If you don't become proficient at basic painting skills "brushing and rolling" all that's left is spraying.
> 
> ...


i know, i could retire on what alot of these painters (and i use the term loosely) use in tape a plastic a year...


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

stevesonsiteservices said:


> All I have to say and trust me on this. Now that you have a sprayer you need to go buy the 3M hand masker. It takes a lot of getting used to but once you master it you can mask off rooms in no time. For me it takes me 1 hour to clean my sprayer. But that's because I baby all my tools and take all the filters out and clean them and spit shine all the parts. The masker and sprayer are defeinitly money makers, sure has made me a lot more money. It took a lot more time mastering the hand masker than the sprayer did.:thumbsup:


Yup me too! That masker drove me nuts for awhile, but it sure speeds things up when ya need it!:thumbsup:


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

When I moved to Texas from Massachusetts, I was introduced to a sort of caste system that a lot contractors employ for their crews. 

A guy who is "proficient" with spraying is paid significantly more p/h than someone who was backrolling, prepping or running doors all day. The time in trade, or even time with the company I'm thinking of, had no bearing on pay scale. The guys who "could spray" weren't willing to teach the others because it meant an even playing field. Whatever, to each his own I suppose. 

It blew my mind that there were literally things that "spray guys" would and would not do. One guy showed up with a five in one and nothing else, expecting to do nothing but fire up the gun and move the occasional ladder. To me, rolling is not a skill, its a prerequisite. I'm all for building from the ground up for green new hires, but to keep a guy caulking stuff instead of teaching him how to handle his brush seems like it slows production down in the long run. Why set limitations for people? 

Don't get me wrong, everybody has their specialties, and I personally trust very few with my spray equipment, but being well rounded is as important as having a specialty, and that's not something exclusive to painting.

I didn't stay with this company; I couldn't conform to their caste system. I'm seriously considering heading back east, if for nothing else than to cut and roll a couple rooms with some smooth walls. Having no hope for snow down here during the winter months has messed with my head also.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

In these parts a "painter" who only sprayed would starve to death. Same with rolling, cutting etc. Gotta do it all and do it well.


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## Susan (Nov 29, 2011)

Paint and Hammer,

I'm glad you asked this. I rarely spray interior either, but I've always pictured myself running the ceiling first, cleaning the machine, cutting ceiling lines about 2 feet out from the corners by brush, then shielding with one hand and spraying with the other. Maybe dropping the gun after a each wall to backroll, or whacking the whole room, then backrolling. I guess it would depend on how quickly things were progressing. 

What did you wind up doing/learning?


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

robladd said:


> The end of this thread has turned into how to mask.
> 
> If you don't become proficient at basic painting skills "brushing and rolling" all that's left is spraying.
> 
> ...


Personally, it took a lot more practice to become good at spraying than brushing and rolling. I do both. Remember, many who spray often are working in different environments than you and cutting and rolling are not practical. NC would be silly to not spray at least ceilings and enamels while rolling walls.


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