# Caulking white trim



## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Do you guys caulk every joint with white trim? Or if you have a tight joint do you allow the paint to fill?

What is the fastest way you have found for painting new construction white trim with an airless?

If you over spray semi gloss on the wall how do you combat the different sheen issue?

After trim is painted do you use tape to get a good line on base or casing or do you strictly cut in by hand?

I've got a whole house of craftsman style trim to do and am trying to figure out the best way. Thought I'd venture over here from CT to ask the pros. Thanks in advance.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Paint covers it doesn't fill and you don't want to learn how to paint on a sizable NC job.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

I'm not new to the trigger. High end wood finishing makes an airless feel like a breeze. 

I've got a lot of time on spraying my 395 this is just my first time using an airless on white trim that is already up. It is my house which makes it perfect for practice. I'm a cabinet maker right now but a remodeler at heart so I try to learn everything I can about the different trades as I'll being going back in to that field soon. I also ask to better understand how painters think to help on jobs I do sub out.

I spend my time on CT, I'm not a painting contractor. Just hoping to get a little help as I'd gladly share what I know in my field if you guys come over that way.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

spencer said:


> Do you guys caulk every joint with white trim? Or if you have a tight joint do you allow the paint to fill?
> 
> What is the fastest way you have found for painting new construction white trim with an airless?
> 
> ...


 On high end trim work, I do pretty much calk every joint. Even if they are tight, they will likely open up a little later on. 

If you blow out semi on the walls, just sand it good and it shouldn't flash the wall finish. 


Personally, I usually tape the base and cut in to everything else.


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## MIZZOU (Nov 18, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> On high end trim work, I do pretty much calk every joint. Even if they are tight, they will likely open up a little later on.
> 
> If you blow out semi on the walls, just sand it good and it shouldn't flash the wall finish.
> 
> Personally, I usually tape the base and cut in to everything else.


Hey thanks man, now we get to hear from the "I never use tape" people


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

We tape baseboards after spraying, caulk every seam/joint. We will tape a whole house trim if only painting walls on a high end home. We had a crew this summer refuse to tape, I was not on the jobsite and they didn't tape and made a mess of the trim, some HO's would be fine but high end I was pissed, we had to repaint all the trim for free since they screwed it up, my plan was to show the HO how crappy the last painter did cutting but our crew proceeded to paint over the last painters screw ups, got our wall color on the trim work..


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

cdpainting said:


> We tape baseboards after spraying, caulk every seam/joint. We will tape a whole house trim if only painting walls on a high end home. We had a crew this summer refuse to tape, I was not on the jobsite and they didn't tape and made a mess of the trim, some HO's would be fine but high end I was pissed, we had to repaint all the trim for free since they screwed it up, my plan was to show the HO how crappy the last painter did cutting but our crew proceeded to paint over the last painters screw ups, got our wall color on the trim work..


That's how I up sell ceilings and trim. 

Me to customer: 

See how much paint they got on the trim and ceiling. My line is going to be a lot neater and you'll see the old color on the trim and ceilings. We can match the color and do one coat on both to freshen it up and get rid of the old color on the trim. 

I speak better than I write but you get the point.

Customer to Me: 

What form of payment do you prefer? lol 

Crappy lines from the last guy is a perfect opportunity for an up sell.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Is there a way to prevent the little bugers that form when you smooth with your finger? Maybe I'm over working...I'm wondering if running a wet rag over it once after I'm done would help???


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## South-FL-Painter (Jan 17, 2012)

spencer said:


> Is there a way to prevent the little bugers that form when you smooth with your finger? Maybe I'm over working...I'm wondering if running a wet rag over it once after I'm done would help???


Keep a clean wet rag at all times.
Keep your finger tip wet at all times.

Caulk one bead at the time and wipe,caulking skins fast.

Keep next to you 5 gal pail filled with wAter,wash the rag often.

You will be surprised,when boogers disappear.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

South-FL-Painter said:


> Keep a clean wet rag at all times.
> Keep your finger tip wet at all times.
> 
> Caulk one bead at the time and wipe,caulking skins fast.
> ...


Exactly right. The finger smooths the caulk and the rag cleans the finger. Do not smooth caulk with a rag.


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## David's Painting (Nov 7, 2012)

I like to use a sponge.


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## Hines Painting (Jun 22, 2013)

South-FL-Painter said:


> Keep a clean wet rag at all times.
> Keep your finger tip wet at all times.
> 
> Caulk one bead at the time and wipe,caulking skins fast.
> ...


I find my boogers disappear best when I put them under the caulking instead of wiping them on top.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Me when I was a kid learning how to caulk:

Dad I sliced my finger. 

My Dad's reponse:

You have 9 more. :yes:


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

Thanks for all the advice. Project is looking nice. Can't wait to get paint on it.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

MIZZOU said:


> Hey thanks man, now we get to hear from the "I never use tape" people


I use tape like it's going out of style. Do lots of NC work and we have to tape off all kinds of stuff from windows, jambs, beams, other walls/features, etc. etc.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

Hines Painting said:


> I find my boogers disappear best when I put them under the caulking instead of wiping them on top.


I flick them out the window at passing cars.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

David's Painting said:


> I like to use a sponge.


Probably the best way to go. I've found that the sponge with a small bucket of water = real good.

I've also seen guys use a damp rag too. But I can vouche for the sponge, have to do whole houses with those things. 

I usually get the soft sponges they use for finish grouting and cut them up and use those. Buy them at home depot in a pack of 3 or 6 usually.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

My goal when caulking is to use as little water as possible. I have seen a lot of caulk jobs that were over wiped, and they always seem to crack out. 
Running tight beads to begin with, then just a quick finger wipe is the best way IMO. 

Using too much water (or solvent for oil base) when caulking is like thinning the caulk, it weakens it.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

South-FL-Painter said:


> Keep a clean wet rag at all times.
> Keep your finger tip wet at all times.
> 
> Caulk one bead at the time and wipe,caulking skins fast.
> ...


I use a tile sponge (cut in half).

Not the one with the scrubby on one side. 

I realize most guys use rags. But once you go to a sponge you will wonder why you ever used a rag.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

spencer said:


> Is there a way to prevent the little bugers that form when you smooth with your finger? Maybe I'm over working...I'm wondering if running a wet rag over it once after I'm done would help???


Yes don't pick nose before smoothing or use different finger.:whistling2:


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Me when I was a kid learning how to caulk:
> 
> Dad I sliced my finger.
> 
> ...


Haha...that reminds me of something my Dad would tell me. (1) Pain is just weakness leaving the body, and (2) what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger. I guess his time as a Marine must have influenced him...


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Pain rests all in the mind.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

TJ Paint said:


> Pain rests all in the mind.


My pain rests in my caulk finger.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Rbriggs82 said:


> My pain rests in my caulk finger.


Poppin your cherry...


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

mudbone said:


> Yes don't pick nose before smoothing or use different finger.:whistling2:


Other fingers are busy scratching my butt and itching my... :whistling2:


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

What the joint between a base cap and 1x? Caulk?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

spencer said:


> What the joint between a base cap and 1x? Caulk?


 You mean the architectural reveal? I usually do caulk it. Unless its installed perfectly, it shows an uneven black line from across the room.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

It would be between the bottom of the cap below and the top of the 1x it sits on top of.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

spencer said:


> It would be between the bottom of the cap below and the top of the 1x it sits on top of.


 Yea, I have been told that caulking that is overkill. It depends a lot on how its installed. It can look fine without caulking. I just like to do it, especially with white trim. 

Its not an easy place to caulk, your not trying to fill the reveal, just seam the two pieces of wood together. I like to cut a small opening in the tube and try to work the bead all the way back into the opening. Then wipe it minimally with the corner of a rag.


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## spencer (Oct 3, 2011)

This what I'm working on. Not sure how I'm going to caulk the small details on the coped joint on the cap either.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

spencer said:


> Not sure how I'm going to caulk the small details on the coped joint on the cap either.






That's a place where over wiping often happens. 
Its hard not to and make it look good. 
I try to bead it real tight bead, and smooth it with the corner of a dry putty knife. If that fails, a damp rag on the corner of a putty knife. 

For little cracks like that, I cut the tip on the tube almost as small as possible and really try to push some caulk inside the crack.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Call Excel he'll caulk that up real nice. If you're lucky he'll throw in the ants for free. :whistling2:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Call Excel he'll caulk that up real nice. If you're lucky he'll throw in the ants for free. :whistling2:


 Or maybe his aunt for a fee.


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## cdaniels (Oct 20, 2012)

I always caulk it.It's not that hard to smooth out and looks so much better.


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## hotwing7 (Mar 31, 2012)

Yup i'll second the knife advice, minimally caulk the corner, smooth it over with your damp finger, then a putty kinfe with a damp rag over to get the fiddly bits, working from the inside out.

The house I'm on this week has pretty much the same as the above picture, and as it settled revealed that the joints weren't caulked but mudded, so they have all cracked. I always end up digesting about half a tube of caulk.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I always end up digesting about half a tube of caulk.[/QUOTE]

That's pretty good....


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> I always end up digesting about half a tube of caulk.


That's pretty good....[/QUOTE]


now, just don't go there:whistling2:


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