# Painting a high traffic wood floor



## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

Hey everyone...

Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.

Anyway, I was thinking of tackling this the way I would tackle cabinets. Clean, sand, prime (BIN), sand again, prime (STIX), sand again, first coat, sand again, second coat.

Anybody have any thoughts on this approach? I was considering using Hollandlac Interior/Exterior Traditional Oil Paint. Any other options I should consider?

Also, I wasn't planning on filling in the gaps between the planks. However, I am planning on fixing cracked planks and filing in nail holes with Bondo. Thoughts here as well.

Here are some photos...

TIA,
Steve Blinn
Be Colouring


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

There's no point in using stix on top of bin. It won't bond any better to the bin than your top coat. I wouldn't use bin on the floor, though, since it's really not going to take the traffic well at all.

Also, skip the oil paint. You're creating a maintenance headache. Use an acrylic porch and floor enamel over an oil primer, or stix if potential bleed through isn't an issue.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

becolouring said:


> Hey everyone...
> 
> Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.
> 
> ...


I’m wondering if it wouldn’t be better to just sand it down to bare wood followed by 2-3 coats of Moore’s P22, no primer, w/a splash of thinner in the 1st coat. BIN will fail miserably especially if damp mopped and “will” lift at every joint in due time.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Neither BIN nor stix should go on a floor. (And ditto to the redundancy as noted by Masterwork).

What kind of look are they after? FWIW I agree with Redux, though if you sand it down to bare wood, then just think about leaving it natural wood and not paint it?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.


The 024 is suitable for floors? The TDS doesn't mention it, but good to know.


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

I mean.... P22 says for metal substrates only... I don't think anyone here cares about data sheets anymore...


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Masterwork said:


> I mean.... P22 says for metal substrates only... I don't think anyone here cares about data sheets anymore...


You’re correct...it’s not VOC compliant for wood substrates..it’s essentially the same as the discontinued C112 Porch & Floor Enamel..


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

Joe67 said:


> The 024 is suitable for floors? The TDS doesn't mention it, but good to know.


I used the 024 as a primer over an old varnished floor which was top coated w/a urethane/alkyd paint and it held up great. It’s really best to let the 024 dry a few days before top coating or until it doesn’t scratch with a fingernail. 

Just a note to the OP, when painting a floor in the dry of winter With oil paint, you run the risk of paint squeezing out of the joints in bb size balls which can and does happen weeks to months after finishing as the flooring swells.


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

Thank you for this advice



Masterwork said:


> There's no point in using stix on top of bin. It won't bond any better to the bin than your top coat. I wouldn't use bin on the floor, though, since it's really not going to take the traffic well at all.
> 
> Also, skip the oil paint. You're creating a maintenance headache. Use an acrylic porch and floor enamel over an oil primer, or stix if potential bleed through isn't an issue.


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

They're going for a shinny look. Probably looking at a Satin, Semi-gloss might be too glossy.



Joe67 said:


> Neither BIN nor stix should go on a floor. (And ditto to the redundancy as noted by Masterwork).
> 
> What kind of look are they after? FWIW I agree with Redux, though if you sand it down to bare wood, then just think about leaving it natural wood and not paint it?


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

During this process how long would you stay off of the floor?



cocomonkeynuts said:


> Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.


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## kentdalimp (Aug 15, 2013)

Already sent you this as a PM, but posting it here to benefit others.


PPG Breakthrough (PDS LINK). High Adhesion and is suitable for Fork Lift Traffic. We have used it on Dance Floors and the like.

Do you need a Non-Slip surface?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

becolouring said:


> During this process how long would you stay off of the floor?





becolouring said:


> They're going for a shinny look. Probably looking at a Satin, Semi-gloss might be too glossy.


You can use coronado rust scat urethane enamel. available in satin and semigloss... similar to p22. I would feel comfortable with light foot traffic 48 hours with catalyst. This stuff is far more durable than breakthrough on a floor


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

P22 is metal only, yes? I looked for the BM ALKYD PORCH & FLOOR ENAMEL WHITE C11201. Only found a Data Sheet. I'll check out Coronado.



cocomonkeynuts said:


> You can use coronado rust scat urethane enamel. available in satin and semigloss... similar to p22. I would feel comfortable with light foot traffic 48 hours with catalyst. This stuff is far more durable than breakthrough on a floor


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

becolouring said:


> P22 is metal only, yes? I looked for the BM ALKYD PORCH & FLOOR ENAMEL WHITE C11201. Only found a Data Sheet. I'll check out Coronado.


C112 is no longer manufactured and p22 was changed to metal only due to voc laws in many states. p22 is for 'metal only' only in the usa. If you called BM and told them you were applying product in mexico they would say its ok.


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

Unless convinced otherwise, I'm leaning toward Benjamin Moore Multi-Purpose Oil Based Primer Primer (024) as the primer and using Urethane Alkyd Gloss (P22) as the base with Corotech Alkyd Gloss and Hardness Catalyst (V705) mixed in.

I'm also thinking tinting Decorators White since they're looking for a wow factor.



cocomonkeynuts said:


> C112 is no longer manufactured and p22 was changed to metal only due to voc laws in many states. p22 is for 'metal only' only in the usa. If you called BM and told them you were applying product in mexico they would say its ok.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

kentdalimp said:


> Already sent you this as a PM, but posting it here to benefit others.
> 
> 
> PPG Breakthrough (PDS LINK). High Adhesion and is suitable for Fork Lift Traffic. We have used it on Dance Floors and the like.
> ...



Or Ben Moore Command.


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

Thanks for the suggestion. There's another thread about Command I've been following. I get the impression from that thread that Command is delayed as a result of the RO.



NACE said:


> Or Ben Moore Command.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

becolouring said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. There's another thread about Command I've been following. I get the impression from that thread that Command is delayed as a result of the RO.


it is delayed but depending on your location Command has been distributed. You may be able to get a participating dealer to send you a gallon or two.


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## kentdalimp (Aug 15, 2013)

Going to use this opportunity to clarify a "Best Practice" 

There are lots of coatings that will work and work well for this application. However if the intended use (Foot Traffic/Floors) and the intended substrate (Wood) are not listed on the PDS, then I would ask for a letter from the Manufacturer (Your Sales Rep can usually get one from the company Technical Representative) stating that they recommend the system and will warrant it. Otherwise, if it fails, even for a non-related issue, then you are going to fight to get a warranty. 

We used PPG Pure Performance on Exterior Walls at the LAX parking structure. It was recommended by PPG as the best product to use. While preparing the submittal I noticed that the PDS says: "Interior" So I had to get a letter from PPG stating that it was in fact fine for Exterior use in this application and they would provide the required warranty. Had they not been willing to do it, then we would have submitted a different product. BUT we took care of it before we started, not fought about it after the fact. No problems 5 years later. 

So make sure, whatever you decide, its either stated on the PDS or get a letter from the manufacturer. It's not worth the liability otherwise.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

kentdalimp said:


> Going to use this opportunity to clarify a "Best Practice"
> 
> There are lots of coatings that will work and work well for this application. However if the intended use (Foot Traffic/Floors) and the intended substrate (Wood) are not listed on the PDS, then I would ask for a letter from the Manufacturer (Your Sales Rep can usually get one from the company Technical Representative) stating that they recommend the system and will warrant it. Otherwise, if it fails, even for a non-related issue, then you are going to fight to get a warranty.
> 
> ...


LOL Good luck getting a manufacturer to warranty a floor. we're talking about a urethane oil enamel, these products have been used on floors for decades


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

becolouring said:


> Hey everyone...
> 
> Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing*. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers.* The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.
> 
> ...


They want their high traffic floor painted a high gloss. And they are designers. What a surprise.


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## kentdalimp (Aug 15, 2013)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> LOL Good luck getting a manufacturer to warranty a floor. we're talking about a urethane oil enamel, these products have been used on floors for decades


NEVER had a problem getting a standard 1 year warranty on a floor we use paint that is specified for floors (PPG Breakthrough/SW Porch and Floor Enamel/Vista Acripoxy II, etc.) Or getting a similar or longer warranty when working with a manufacturer to design a system for the intended environment. 

We have established relationships with our manufacturers and there are contractual requirements they need to meet if they want to sell $40K worth of paint on a single job. 

Now, there are a lot of paint salesmen that will recommend any system that they want for any environment but are unwilling to back it up in writing. If a salesman recommends something but won't put it in writing, then what's it worth? It may be the best system in the world, but if we have to warrant it and the manufacturer won't, then someone else can do it!


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

kentdalimp said:


> NEVER had a problem getting a standard 1 year warranty on a floor we use paint that is specified for floors (PPG Breakthrough/SW Porch and Floor Enamel/Vista Acripoxy II, etc.) Or getting a similar or longer warranty when working with a manufacturer to design a system for the intended environment.
> 
> We have established relationships with our manufacturers and there are contractual requirements they need to meet if they want to sell $40K worth of paint on a single job.
> 
> Now, there are a lot of paint salesmen that will recommend any system that they want for any environment but are unwilling to back it up in writing. If a salesman recommends something but won't put it in writing, then what's it worth? It may be the best system in the world, but if we have to warrant it and the manufacturer won't, then someone else can do it!


Flooring systems are a mixed bag; way too many variables to account for outside of product failure and what it comes down to 99% of the time is surface prep. Why would I have to warranty _your _workmanship? I can guarantee SW and PPG offering a 'warranty' on any flooring system comes with about ten thousand reasons they won't be responsible for failure.

Again we're talking about a small old wood floor. Oil primer and a urethane alkyd enamel are going to hold up just fine just as they have for decades before. FYI the old C112 floor enamel was a straight relabel from the M22 urethane alkyd. P22 was updated formula due to VOC restrictions in many states.

SW still lists their PI urethane alkyd for use on wood floors if that makes you feel more warm and comfortable using it.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Flooring systems are a mixed bag; way too many variables to account for outside of product failure and what it comes down to 99% of the time is surface prep. Why would I have to warranty _your _workmanship? I can guarantee SW and PPG offering a 'warranty' on any flooring system comes with about ten thousand reasons they won't be responsible for failure.
> 
> Again we're talking about a small old wood floor. Oil primer and a urethane alkyd enamel are going to hold up just fine just as they have for decades before. FYI the old C112 floor enamel was a straight relabel from the M22 urethane alkyd. P22 was updated formula due to VOC restrictions in many states.


I couldn’t think of one hardwood flooring company which would even warranty a recoat over an existing finish, let alone seek to recover damages from a finish manufacturer unless there was a substantial material defect...existing finishes on a high wear wood flooring surface should be removed, whether for paint or clears. We’ve had adhesion failures on wood flooring recoats over Murphy’s, Pledge, and Endust.. no matter how diligent we were with the prep and cleaning.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Redux said:


> I couldn’t think of one hardwood flooring company which would even warranty a recoat over an existing finish, let alone seek to recover damages from a finish manufacturer unless there was a substantial material defect...existing finishes on a high wear wood flooring surface should be removed, whether for paint or clears. We’ve had adhesion failures on wood flooring recoats over Murphy’s, Pledge, and Endust.. no matter how diligent we were with the prep and cleaning.


I'm suddenly recalling your experience with deodorant caused failure.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> I'm suddenly recalling your experience with deodorant caused failure.


Yup...fisheyes caused by deodorant..


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

This is one of those project types that one would take on only out of a sense of challenge - or desperation.

If I had any other type of work going, I would pass on something like this because of the inherent risk of failure. Add in to that, the customers are designers which in my experience translates into PITAs. Not knocking KDL for considering it, only that there is no way in hell I would take it on unless there were extremely mitigating factors - like imminent starvation, loss of a dwelling/vehicle, or all three.


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## Samuel (Jan 15, 2021)

Porch and floor paints hold up well to traffic without the need for sealers, but if you paint your floor with an ordinary enamel paint instead, or expect a lot of traffic on it, make the final coats clear polyurethane sealer for the most long-lasting, durable results.


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## becolouring (Mar 30, 2020)

Hey everyone. Here's the latest on this project. Just finished today.

Process went something like this...scuffed up the floor with an orbital sander, primed with Benjamin Moore Multi-Purpose Oil Based Primer Primer (024). Let dry for a day. Scuffed the floor a second time and then applied two coats of Benjamin Moore Urethane Alkyd Gloss (P22) Platinum Gray as the base with Corotech Alkyd Gloss and Hardness Catalyst (V705) mixed in with a day in between.

Thanks for all the advice and help.



becolouring said:


> Hey everyone...
> 
> Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.
> 
> ...


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

So You put a clear alkyd gloss over a pigmented alkyd gloss?


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