# Can you glaze windows proficiently?



## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

I haven't met too many guys who push this service, obviously the majority of guys would be working on older homes with old sash


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## NuView Painting (Sep 25, 2007)

i dont offer it cause i dont wanna do it


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

I can do it, but the question was, proficiently...
I can't begin to keep up with a full time glazier, but my end result will be in the ballpark.
r


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Yes I can do it, but no I don't offer it.


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## Joewho (Apr 17, 2007)

Other.....

Sometimes I do it, sometimes not. If it's part of the job and there aren't too many, I do it.

Takes a couple of hours to get back into the swing of things, but yes, proficient. I use a flexible putty knife, and keep water on hand. If the knife drags a little just dip it in water and it slides like butter.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

No i do not offer it because i have not done it in years, and i would be rather slow.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

If it needs to be done I'll do it....probaly average a couple jobs per year that will require windows to be dug out and glazed
12/12's are my favorite...


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## DelW (Apr 18, 2007)

I can do it, and I do, do it but it's not my most favorite thing to do, I don't advertise it but when I do the initial walk through with the customer I'll point out areas that may need attention, better to know these things up front than as an add on. That way I can build it into the proposal.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

*"other and explain"*

I can do it
Not real well or fast, but I can do it
I don't 'offer' it as a service, but will add it on if it's only a few windows/doors, and I think it might help the close


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## johnleeke (Oct 18, 2007)

I like doing it, and have done quite a bit over the years. When I was a little younger my best times were 20-23 minutes for a 6-light 36" sash, now about 30+ minutes. (after about 10 sash to get up to speed)

More on glazing and painting sash:



John


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

If I am hungry I will.....


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

6 pane 36 in 30 minutes pretty good John!

I'd be lucky to do 10 in a day!
MOF, I don't think I ever did 10 on the same job.
r


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## jmacc (Aug 21, 2007)

I enjoy restoring old wood windows. 

Don't like waiting weeks for Dap 33 to skin over.


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

jmacc said:


> I enjoy restoring old wood windows.
> 
> Don't like waiting weeks for Dap 33 to skin over.


haha...I hear that....It's nice to do them first, work on other areas and come back...at least that's how I try to do it


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NuView Painting said:


> i dont offer it cause i dont wanna do it



Ditto!


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## johnleeke (Oct 18, 2007)

jmacc said:


> Don't like waiting weeks for Dap 33 to skin over.


The last few years we have been testing 3 or 4 different putties and glazing compounds. They all have different characteristics, and we use each of them occasionally. One that has become our standard, skins over in just a couple of days. It is Sarco Type M, made in Chicago. 

You can get more info on it with a Google search "Sarco Type M".

Another interesting putty is Allback Linseed Oil Putty. You can paint it immediately after tooling it in, but you have to use Allback Linseed Oil Paint. It does not wrinkle like with other putties and paints. 

John
with no strain he sets the pane


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

Thanks for that info John, I'll look at that Sarco product....
r


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

yeah, me too...I'm game for a time saver :yes:


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## Mari (Apr 18, 2007)

On one job this summer we reglazed 179 panes of glass, used good old Dapp 33. Fun and games.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I love all the customers who think glazing is part of a painting estimate - and looked shock when I ask for more money.


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## PlantainPainting (Apr 19, 2007)

I like to use an assortment of glazing- For the old school houses i try to use DAP33; IMO, I am convinced they changed the formula tho and it is not nearly as good of a product as it was 10 years ago plus it seems that it attracts mildew quickly.

I try to use only Aqua-glaze nowadays unless they are really old windows. You know, the 1960, 70s windows with alluminium tracks usually- that the owners are too cheap to replace and just "want to get a few more years out of". Aqua-glaze, if applied properly , doesn't crack like i hear many painters say it will around here.

The DAP in a caulking tube is a great product for longevity and durability but it can look horrible unless done in a painstakingly neat manner. Also , if you don't paint it quickly it will turn an awful yellow color.

I'll be checkingSarco out as I always seem to have glazing to do every year.


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## johnleeke (Oct 18, 2007)

*AquaGlaze Cracking*

How do you apply that AquaGlaze so it does not crack.

Here in Maine we find that it tends to crack, though we may use it to fill in short sections of missing putty where we are doing spot repairs and have to get it painted quickly.

John Leeke
Portland, Maine
Historic HomeWorks


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## PlantainPainting (Apr 19, 2007)

johnleeke said:


> How do you apply that AquaGlaze so it does not crack./quote]
> 
> 
> 1. Use fresh Aqua-glaze - it can dry up even on the store shelves
> ...


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## [email protected] (Dec 6, 2007)

*glAzing*

i do a lot of glazing. At the Carlise War College in pa we did maybe30 historic homes that had lead paint on them we ahad to burn the paint scape out all glazing and reglaze. Each sash Had 12 pains and each home had aprox. 25 windows


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## uglyjoe (Jan 18, 2008)

dont mind it, just use the glaze in the caulk tube with the square angled end, makes it a breeze and tight.


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