# Which primer to use ?



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

This house that is getting done has some serious loose and chippe. House has 3 layers of paint. 2 were done 10 years ago and one just last year but the house was never preped , just painted over existing paint . Do you think i should use regular oil base primer or peel bond to stop loosing any more old paint. Stripping is not an option. Thanks.










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

One coat of the super duper paint, Behr Marquee and your done


----------



## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

But seriously, I would think after EXTENSIVE prep work ,that a slow dry oil would work


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

We did one like that with maddog primer after removing all loose and sanding, it's going on 3 years with no problems.


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

chrisn said:


> One coat of the super duper paint, Behr Marquee and your done


Dude you stole my line!


----------



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

Thanks everybody for advice . I already primed it with cover stain after days of scraping and sanding and will put a coat of some nice paint .

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

paintera said:


> Thanks everybody for advice . I already primed it with cover stain after days of scraping and sanding and will put a coat of some nice paint .
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk




I don't do many in that shape, but did just like you on the last one--lots of scraping then a full coat of Coverstain.


----------



## Phinnster (Feb 20, 2013)

I am surprised people are using cover stain l

In my opinion it is to brittle a primer


----------



## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

Phinnster said:


> I am surprised people are using cover stain l
> 
> In my opinion it is to brittle a primer


Coverstain is not going to last. :no:


----------



## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Phinnster said:


> I am surprised people are using cover stain l
> 
> In my opinion it is to brittle a primer


That's what I would've suggested, but I don't have the sage primers here






Tonyg said:


> Coverstain is not going to last. :no:


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Phinnster said:


> I am surprised people are using cover stain l
> 
> In my opinion it is to brittle a primer


I'm surprised by it as well. It's a quick dry, not a long oil alkyd so it doesn't get good penetration into the substrate. But what do I know, I've only been selling it since 1984.


----------



## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't know, Coverstain seems much different, but we have three formulas in CA at times. I use the QD version and it dries very slow almost stays too soft, so I think it would be fine for that application. Although the instructions used to say, "do not use as a whole house primer" for exterior.


----------



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

Okay so how can I correct my mistake? If I go with coat of slow drying oil primer over coverstain would it make a difference? And also could I use Peel Stop or peel Bond from Sherwin Williams over coverstain to make it more firm or i have to sand down all spots that i primed?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

paintera said:


> Okay so how can I correct my mistake? If I go with coat of slow drying oil primer over coverstain would it make a difference? And also could I use Peel Stop or peel Bond from Sherwin Williams over coverstain to make it more firm or i have to sand down all spots that i primed?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


Like MikeCalifornia commented, It used to say "not a whole house primer" on the label instructions. But the two cans I have that I have bought in the last couple of years don't say that anymore. So I don't know what to tell you to be honest. Maybe give them a call. There should be an 800 phone number on the can somewhere.


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Are the bottoms of the claps sealed shut? It looks like moisture blistering. Usually peeling that bad is either related to a complete lack of initial prep or the envelope of the house not breathing properly. If it's not it won't matter what primer you use because the moisture will force it's way out.


----------



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

PRC said:


> Are the bottoms of the claps sealed shut? It looks like moisture blistering. Usually peeling that bad is either related to a complete lack of initial prep or the envelope of the house not breathing properly. If it's not it won't matter what primer you use because the moisture will force it's way out.


Yes they were so i cut 'em open, most of them. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

paintera said:


> Okay so how can I correct my mistake? If I go with coat of slow drying oil primer over coverstain would it make a difference? And also could I use Peel Stop or peel Bond from Sherwin Williams over coverstain to make it more firm or i have to sand down all spots that i primed?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


If the Coverstain has cured you should be able to apply the Peel Bond. Spray/roll or back brush. If you can get Mad Dog give that a try.


----------



## csbeepee (Jun 29, 2015)

Has anyone tried SW Rejuvenate? They say it is a paint and primer in one, but I wonder how it would work with PrimeRX Underneath, or Rejuvenate with a Duration topcoat. 

I have used PrimeRX in situations like this, sprayed and bankrolled with a 621 tip and 1/2-3/4" nap.


----------



## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

The last thing I would do is apply Duration as a top coat over a peeler. It's likely to cause more issues. Duration for new construction is a different story.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

PNW Painter said:


> The last thing I would do is apply Duration as a top coat over a peeler. It's likely to cause more issues. Duration for new construction is a different story.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We have seen many old houses that were not peelers, become so from Duration.


----------



## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

csbeepee said:


> Has anyone tried SW Rejuvenate? They say it is a paint and primer in one, but I wonder how it would work with PrimeRX Underneath, or Rejuvenate with a Duration topcoat.
> 
> I have used PrimeRX in situations like this, sprayed and bankrolled with a 621 tip and 1/2-3/4" nap.


That's a good one! Unlike about a thousand other paints on the market!


----------



## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

I would not use coverstain my self. Over large areas i feel in gets to brittle. You can do amazing prep and finish work and your job can still fail. Thing i have learned for exteriors is you need a flexable primer and a flexible finish. I would use Peel Bond my self to prime. And i would prob top coat with Dulux Decraflex. My reasons is peel bond stays flexible. Also Decreflex is a low sheen Satan elastomeric that also stretches and flexes 200 percent. this will allow the old siding to get as grumpy as it want move twist even shake for all i care. Yet my coatings will stick to it and follow. This means no more cracks or blisters. Also means owner does not call another painter in 3 years to redo it all over again. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

paintera said:


> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


I'll be curious to learn if the next areas to peel are the white areas where the paint was feathered. That's what we typically see.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

AlphaWolf said:


> I would not use coverstain my self. Over large areas i feel in gets to brittle. You can do amazing prep and finish work and your job can still fail. Thing i have learned for exteriors is you need a flexable primer and a flexible finish. I would use Peel Bond my self to prime. And i would prob top coat with Dulux Decraflex. My reasons is peel bond stays flexible. Also Decreflex is a low sheen Satan elastomeric that also stretches and flexes 200 percent. this will allow the old siding to get as grumpy as it want move twist even shake for all i care. Yet my coatings will stick to it and follow. This means no more cracks or blisters. Also means owner does not call another painter in 3 years to redo it all over again. Just my 2 cents.


From your description, I thought Decraflex was the Devil's paint:whistling2:


----------



## csbeepee (Jun 29, 2015)

PRC said:


> PNW Painter said:
> 
> 
> > The last thing I would do is apply Duration as a top coat over a peeler. It's likely to cause more issues. Duration for new construction is a different story.
> ...


Is that because it is such a heavy coating or what? I've heard of determination issues caused by duration and asked my rep. He even insisted that two coats of duration over Peel Bond would be a great system (even though it only recommends one coat for repaints). I told him I thought it would stress the substrate even further and he disagreed. Was I right all along?


----------



## paintera (May 16, 2016)

So what I have learned so far from everybodys posts is that there is no magic paint or any angry dog that would make this a nice long lasting repaint. Maybe lead paint would hold up some longer but that's out of question. Idealy I would strip or shave all failing paint but that is just not possible to fit into my budget. I am new in painting, this is my first side job and budget is only $4000 dollars plus paint that includes spot priming and 1 coat of paint. Expencive paints are out of question for the customer so he is going with cheapest one from SW ( A-100 acrylic latex). Regardless I am doing all I can to solve the issue with failing paint as far as rough prep. I already spot primed one side with COVERSTAIN ( which I was told by my field supervisor in company where I work) and since majority here is against it ill go with eather slow dring oil or peel bond on east side which is in same shape and see which one holds better. I gave a year warranty to come and fix any new fail but also warned him that it might still be happening in near future. He will be selling that rental property next year and handig over problem to a new ovner so he is not so worried. 
Thanks everybody for contribution. ill post some more pictures as I go furder into project.


----------



## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Pantera, you're probably a little over your head on this project since it's a side job and you offered a 1 year warranty on a peeler. It only takes one of these projects to learn your lesson and understand how many extra man hours these jobs take compared to typical repaints.

I'd stick with peel bond for the rest of the house and hope for the best.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

paintera said:


> So what I have learned so far from everybodys posts is that there is no magic paint or any angry dog that would make this a nice long lasting repaint. Maybe lead paint would hold up some longer but that's out of question. Idealy I would strip or shave all failing paint but that is just not possible to fit into my budget. I am new in painting, this is my first side job and budget is only $4000 dollars plus paint that includes spot priming and 1 coat of paint. Expencive paints are out of question for the customer so he is going with cheapest one from SW ( A-100 acrylic latex). Regardless I am doing all I can to solve the issue with failing paint as far as rough prep. I already spot primed one side with COVERSTAIN ( which I was told by my field supervisor in company where I work) and since majority here is against it ill go with eather slow dring oil or peel bond on east side which is in same shape and see which one holds better. I gave a year warranty to come and fix any new fail but also warned him that it might still be happening in near future. He will be selling that rental property next year and handig over problem to a new ovner so he is not so worried.
> Thanks everybody for contribution. ill post some more pictures as I go furder into project.


Given this scope of work and customer expectations, stick with your original plan......it'll be fine.


----------

