# Wallpaper Steamers



## ddemair (Nov 3, 2008)

I've always rented a steamer when I need one, but I noticed that I can buy a Wagner wallpaper steamer at Lowes's for about $55. That's less than renting one for 2 days and it would save me a lot of time just to have one on hand.

And surprisingly, it got pretty good reviews, but since it's a Wagner, it's at Lowes, and it's pretty cheap, I'm a bit suspicious about the quality.

So who's using what kind of steamer and are you happy with it?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Bill posted a video last week of a propane steamer and after seeing it I couldn't imagine going back to electric and not feeling like I was mickey mouse'ing it.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

warn't me who posted a vid of a steamer. I don't believe in them. But thanks for the undeserved credit. :thumbsup:


ddemair,

Why do you use a steamer? I've been stripping paper for close to forty years and have refined my system so that soaking, stripping, and washing is quicker and more thorough than any steamer I've used.

Briefly, the process would be:

If there is a coating that prevents moisture form penetrating the surface, break through it with 36 grit on a palm sander. Vacuum up dust. On some heavy paper-backed-vinyl, the vinyl will easily pull off the thin paper substrate, leaving an easy job of wetting and stripping the paper.

Mix your favorite stripping solution into hot water and spray a light mist all around the room with a garden sprayer. (If room is too large to do in a day, only spray the day's work)

The light mist is to get the paper damp without huge amounts of water flowing onto the floor.

Keep the walls moist/wet until the old paste has loosened. This is the most important part. LET THE SOLUTION DO THE WORK. Do not spray and scrape, spray and scrape. 

With a wallpaper stripper (with the four inch razor sharp blades) attack ONE SMALL AREA at a time, like one or two strips. I spray the area just before stripping - the extra water seems to help. Strip that section and before the wall dries, wash the residue paste off. *ALL* the residue paste off. Rinse and move on to the next section. While you are doing this, take regular breaks and mist all the walls. Do NOT let that which has been wet dry out. 

My average time for stripping is one square foot per minute - that includes time to set up, bust through any impervious layer, soak, strip, wash, and final clan up. 

I can NOT stress enough - LET THE STRIPPING SOLUTION DO THE WORK, and KEEP THE WALLPAPER WET.

and if you want to know my favorit solution it's Safe and Simple, and my favorite scrubbing tool is the 

Scotch Brite Grill Scrub:


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## CustomDesignCoatings (Jun 2, 2011)

DeArch,

Same process on a smaller scale for a boarder only? Or do you have something faster/better system. Working on Bid for AmericInn Hotel doing a repaint of 46 rooms all of which has this around entire top. 6" wide, vinyl face, unknown glue, not able to do a test area (yeah I know) just need to word property in bid to cover for incidentals. 

Respectfully,

Brian


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## CustomDesignCoatings (Jun 2, 2011)

Wow I'm a jerk......sorry daArch not DeArch.... I'm just an FNG 

Respectfully,

Brian


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## cappaint (May 24, 2011)

Steamers suck....messy, slow, not very effective.

Peel top layer of paper off....comes off easily most of the time....if not use one of those razor blade tools. Next step spray all the glue and underpaper with warm water and scrape off with putty knife.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

CustomDesignCoatings said:


> DeArch,
> 
> Same process on a smaller scale for a boarder only? Or do you have something faster/better system. Working on Bid for AmericInn Hotel doing a repaint of 46 rooms all of which has this around entire top. 6" wide, vinyl face, unknown glue, not able to do a test area (yeah I know) just need to word property in bid to cover for incidentals.
> 
> ...


Brian, I didn't even see the spelling, no harm no foul.

Most commercial buildings have canvas back vinyl hung on them. If so, it should be possible to loosen a corner and pull the stuff off the wall while dry. Then soak and scrub residue paste off. The paste "should" be clay, which takes more water than heavy duty clear.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Bill posted a video last week of a propane steamer and after seeing it I couldn't imagine going back to electric and not feeling like I was mickey mouse'ing it.


 I remember using a kerosene steamer (1970's). That sucker got hot and did some job. It was mostly all wheat paste and traditional paper back in those days in these parts and it came off very easy.
These days we use, and have been using for some time, the same system that Bill describes pretty much. Haven't used a steamer of any variety for quite a while.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Back in the olden days I ran into walls with 4-5 layers of paper paper on them, plaster walls. . Then a prop steamer made some sense .And an electric was a joke. 
i haven't seen that situation, or had the need to use a steamer in at least 10 years. 
I striped 3 baths monday. 
see Archs how to..


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

steamers just plain suck
Bill's way is the ONLY way:yes:


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Haven't used a steamer in 20 years. :no:


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

We also remove a ton of wallpaper. We do it the same way as Arch, bit with no solution. Just hot water, as hot as the tap will get. 

We used to add Dif, but the stuff was nasty.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

I posted the video which was quite impressive. They all don't come off that easy though. That is what the guy in the video said anyway. For the most part, I agree with arch. I have an old green propane steamer just like it that was my dad's, but its rusted out pretty bad. I find that only every now and then you run into a paper that won't come off with the methods described above. Steamers are a pain.


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## Scraper (Nov 22, 2009)

I have removed miles of wallpaper as well. Very seldom I use a steamer, but on rare occasions it's the ticket. I refer to my stripping array as an arsenol. Because you never know if just hot water or a solution will do the trick. I have the wagner steamer and it works like it's supposed to. It is a last resort before I make the executive decision that nothing is going to work. They are so inexpensive and if it can make a job easier why not bring it for 'just in case'.
Stripping wallpaper is like a box of chocolates- you never know what you're gonna get.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

One Coat Coverage said:


> We also remove a ton of wallpaper. We do it the same way as Arch, bit with no solution. Just hot water, as hot as the tap will get.
> 
> We used to add Dif, but the stuff was nasty.[/QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

I got some S&S after a stripping discussion a few years ago- I havent found it made much difference. Maybe for paste removal- but not so much for the paper.
I have talked about putting poly over the wet wall to hold in the moisture- and that is the best help i have ever used.


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## One Coat Coverage (Oct 4, 2009)

Like I said, I've found that hot water works best. The only time I have a problem is when somebody put the paper over flat paint, or bare drywall.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

What if the wall paper went right on the unprimed sheet rock . For years I just primed over the stuff with cover stain . Floated out the seams primed and textured and primed again .painted etc 
Never had a call back , but now after being on PT I feel like a hacker .


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

terry,

The ONLY time I justify painting over paper is IF it is pasted to raw rock. IMO, the correct procedure is to remove and sand all loose and bubbling pieces, sand all seams that are wired or overlapped, apply a coat of Draw-tite or gardz, patch the areas where loose paper was removed, and sand. Prime the patched area with D-T or gardz, and then proceed with the chosen decorative preference.

Wallpaper that is PROPERLY pasted to raw rock is married to the cardboard, just as well as the cardboard facing is to the gypsum.

If it is the heavy paper-backed-vinyl, pull the vinyl facing off the paper substrate and proceed as above. 

The exception is commercial vinyl hung with a strippable adhesive. They are supposed to be dry stripped and hung again. Thee are so many times this can be done, and not being a commercial hanger, I do not know the limit.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Wow I can do that , I still feel like a hack 
But that's why I am here . I spent my whole life studying other artists and how they work . It's been over a year or so since I have done a job like this . But they always come up . I just want to do things right . Thanks so much for input and experience .


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

I don't blame you, but it's like a double negative making a positive.

You hack a hack's job and thus make it right  :thumbup:

It's not like it's the BEST solution, it's like it's the ONLY solution, besides overlaying with new rock or removing the old down to the studs, or tearing up the surface so bad, there's no original facing left.

Some people have reported that they have been able to roll paste (Roman 880 is best for this) on the paper, cover with plastic (so it don't dry or evaporate), and let it sit for a number of hours (like six), and then the paper will release from the raw rock. I do not have experience using this method of raw rock, so I can not absotutely conform it works. I have removed wallpaper from liner this way (twice) and it has worked surprisingly well. 

but as I've pointed out, if the paper has been adhered PROPERLY to the raw rock, it is MARRIED to it. And the D-T or gardz will penetrate and create an additional bond. 

Just make sure everything is patched, sanded, and secured.


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## pacificpainters.com (May 5, 2011)

*Great thread*

Great thread, excellent comments everyone. 

I have to dig through these threads and make links to them for my students, the stuff you read here is Gold.

It has been years since I stripped wallpaper for real. I am often doing at college with my students but it is generally very soft and new from our wallpaper training.

When I was younger we would come across heaps of wallpaper that needed stripping, but we don't see much now in Australia or in the Pacific.

I have to teach using a wallpaper stripper as it is part of the subject of surface preparation, but I agree with the comments about them. The one we use here for training is a Wagner, back to the original question, seems to work fine for what it does.

I agree with the comments that it is probably best not to use one. Bill, aka DeArch explained really well step by step how to strip without a steamer. Great information, excellent work.


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## ddemair (Nov 3, 2008)

Thanks for all of the responses. I'm surprised to see so little use of steamers. I've rented them and they work pretty well, but they are a nuisance and I lose too much time picking it up and returning it which is why I was thinking of buying one.

As many mentioned, keeping things wet is key and hot water seems to work as well as Diff. I've never found Diff to be really at that effective. Of course, keeping the water hot is yet another challenge.

I usually add a little TSP (or sometimes dishwashing detergent) to the water to make it "wetter".

I probably won't buy a steamer. There's too many tools that I want to buy that I would enjoy using and a steamer isn't one of them.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

the problem with adding soap or other surfactant is the PITA of washing it off. 

BTW, if you read the label of DIF, it says to wear a respirator. Safe and Simple is safe enough to drink (by accident if per chance the owner of S&S mistook it for lemon aid :whistling2


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

anybody use "Chomp" for wallpaper removal?

Wondering how it performs compared to other products.


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## DanielMDollaPainting (Feb 24, 2011)

daArch said:


> warn't me who posted a vid of a steamer. I don't believe in them. But thanks for the undeserved credit. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> ddemair,
> ...


 Thanks for the tip. I picked up one of those scrubbers with the handle today. It was a Quickie brand. I stripped almost three rooms myself. That thing really pulls the paste off the walls. I used to just use a sponge. What a difference.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> anybody use "Chomp" for wallpaper removal?
> 
> Wondering how it performs compared to other products.


anybody??????????


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

...................


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

...................


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You are chompin at the bit to get a response eh TJ? :jester:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

All I hear is crickets


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

No wait! I got it!! 
No.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

http://www.soundboard.com/mediafiles/MTM0ODI2OTMxMzQ4ODY_nc6YKL_2ffGOk.mp3


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)




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## jonnythecutter (Mar 10, 2009)

yeah, i use chomp often. it's eco friendly and its great for cleaning greasy surfaces for kitchen repaints. great. 

hope this helps. :thumbsup:

jonny
Paint Well
Toronto


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## pacificpainters.com (May 5, 2011)

What's Chomp?


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

............


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

pacificpainters.com said:


> What's Chomp?


Chomp is advertised as a non-toxic all-purpose cleaner but it's also advertised as a wallpaper adhesive remover. That's what I was curious about, how well it does removing wallpaper. Got a job coming up with 3 full rooms of removal. 

I think I'll give it a shot since I'd rather not use dif. I might just use hot water and vinegar, I've had good results with that.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> No wait! I got it!!
> No.


 
I will second that. Why bother when we ( the paper guys) have found and use the only product that is needed?


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> Chomp is advertised as a non-toxic all-purpose cleaner but it's also advertised as a wallpaper adhesive remover. That's what I was curious about, how well it does removing wallpaper. Got a job coming up with 3 full rooms of removal.
> 
> I think I'll give it a shot since I'd rather not use dif. I might just use hot water and vinegar, I've had good results with that.


 
Chomp sucks, just like a steamer. Save you're $ and stick with the stinking vinegar.
I don't understand when Bill and I(experts at removal) recommend something it is ignored:blink:
I will post this once again and then it is up to you, use the best or use the CHOMP,Diff, vinegar,fabric softener,dish soap,or dynamite, up to you
http://www.safeandsimple.com/


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Now Chris, I am always open to new products. Even though I love S&S, I am always investigaing.

BUT, if you have tried Chomp and found it lacking, that's good enough for me. 

I have tested Roman's Piranha and found it acceptable, and mixed some into some S&S with good results.

Once when we had to strip a room after hanging the wrong paper (this was the DECORATOR'S fault), I tested DIF side by side with S&S. There was NO discernable difference in the performance. HOWEVER, DIF is hazardous, as I've pointed out before, it says to use a respirator. But this was like to days after hanging, so I know it was easier than fully cured paste. Also, with the paste we used and the prep coat used, anything would have taken that paper down easily. (it was like an hour and a half for a 10 x 12 room - I was flying)

I used to use CLEAR (not sudsy) ammonia had had great results, but the smell was too much. I've tried vinegar and it worked, but not as well as S&S. I've tried the new DIF concentrate and it doesn't smell as bad as the original and works well. 

I've mixed it with S&S and feel it was a really good combo.

I have not used FAST in a long time but remember it with disdain. 

I have not used fabric softener, I imagine the rinsing would be more time consuming. 

Hot water will work, but it evaporates too fast. You want something that STAYS wet. 

I use Safe and Simple because it WORKS, it's non-toxic, the price is good (considering the dilution), and the company owner has earned my support, many times over. 

Now if anyone has a lot of stripping to do and wants me to post how to modify a garden sprayer with a longer hose (20 ft) and the air pump, let me know and I will bore the board with a tome.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Also if you happen to already have an HVLP- works fabulously for those bigger jobs too.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I wasn't ignoring the experts about S & S. I just don't think anybody in my area stocks it, so was looking for a viable substitute. 

I might order some online depending how long it takes to get here.

I appreciate the help.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

BrushJockey said:


> Also if you happen to already have an HVLP- works fabulously for those bigger jobs too.


DO NOT SPRAY DIFF with any type sprayer without a full respirator:no::no::no:

Trust me on this


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> I wasn't ignoring the experts about S & S. I just don't think anybody in my area stocks it, so was looking for a viable substitute.
> 
> I might order some online depending how long it takes to get here.
> 
> I appreciate the help.


 
Usually only takes a couple days to get from California to Maryland


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