# How to lighten stain after it has dried



## Mplspaint01

Anyone have suggestions on how to lighten a stain after it is dry. A customer changed his mind once he saw the color on his trim and now thinks it is too dark. Yes, he approved the sample... I am looking for some creative help. I tried scrubbing/soaking with thinners to pull some of the stain out but had almost no luck with that. Anyone have a few tricks up their sleeve? 

Oil based stain on oak. No clear on yet. 2 days dry.


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## vermontpainter

Mplspaint01 said:


> Anyone have suggestions on how to lighten a stain after it is dry. A customer changed his mind once he saw the color on his trim and now thinks it is too dark. Yes, he approved the sample ...I am looking for some creative help. I tried scrubbing/soaking with thinners to pull some of the stain out but had almost no luck with that. Anyone have a few tricks up their sleeve?
> 
> Oil based stain on oak. No clear on yet. 2 days dry.


Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you may just have to sand out and do over. I've not found a good, believable way to do this.


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## TheRogueBristle

Sand or or maybe a thinned coat of llight tan paint?


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## LA Painter

Laquer thinner in a spray bottle has worked for me many times.


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## c65jones

If wiping it down with a hot solvent won't do anything, there's not a lot of options for easy answers.


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## daArch

I owned a floor once that I still swear to this day the coked-out HO gave me the wrong color to stain. It was pine. Had to be sanded. 

Sometimes a solvent can lighten it a little, but only a little. IME


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## Ultimate

Sometimes I use a stain remover on decks as part of the preperation. It gets a lot of the color out. Not 100% of the color but quite a bit. Takes a little scrubbing. SW Deckscapes stain/sealer remover. If it's inside be sure your careful with the walls. Try it on a small piece first. It should give you a new starting place at least.


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## propainterJ

Forgive my lateness but did you say you tried Lacquer thinner?


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## johnthepainter

Be careful sanding that much... quite often you could polish the wood and it wont accept stain evenly. Change your paper often.


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## DeanV

Spray it with a waterborn that will fail to adhere to oil stain, apply tape, remove tape and it will pull some stain with it thus lightening the color. At least this method seems foolproof when I try a new wb clear that companies promise will stick to traditional oil stains.


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## Bighead

Good post. I recently had a designer ask me to change the color of an oak railing that had been previously stained and polyed. I told her that it had to be completely sanded/stripped in order to retain a darker color. In other words I said, no way. She and the homeowner appeared surprised by my answer. If there is a process I'd like to know.


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## DeanV

Darkening can be done, make up a toner.


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## ewingpainting.net

Solvent is not hot enough to cut through. 

Option 1. 
Try a lacquer thinner bath, I just did it to some alder windows and doors, although the stain I used was acid tone. I used rags. Oak is hard enough (tighter pores) that the stain is more on the surface. So it should cut into it. 

Option 2.
Try wood bleach, since the wood is not sealed yet, the bleach might work. Maybe someone else can weigh in on wood bleach. I've used it on restoration work, never in the scenario though. 

Option 3. 
Wood shading with acid tone stain, which I don't think it will work. I've only done it if I was going darker. But it's wouldn't hurt to give it a try


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## ewingpainting.net

BTW, this is why I seal wood prior to staining. It can all ways be washed off if there is a change of mind or a mess up. Plus it uniforms the stain more.


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## Different Strokes

high fibre said:


> be careful sanding that much,,,,quite often you could polish the wood and it wont accept stain evenly. change your paper often.


Found that out the hard way.:yes:


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## Paradigmzz

Bighead said:


> Good post. I recently had a designer ask me to change the color of an oak railing that had been previously stained and polyed. I told her that it had to be completely sanded/stripped in order to retain a darker color. In other words I said, no way. She and the homeowner appeared surprised by my answer. If there is a process I'd like to know.


Going darker is easy, going lighter ain't gonna happen.


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## Ultimate

ewingpainting.net said:


> Solvent is not hot enough to cut through.
> 
> Option 1.
> Try a lacquer thinner bath, I just did it to some alder windows and doors, although the stain I used was acid tone. I used rags. Oak is hard enough (tighter pores) that the stain is more on the surface. So it should cut into it.
> 
> Option 2.
> Try wood bleach, since the wood is not sealed yet, the bleach might work. Maybe someone else can weigh in on wood bleach. I've used it on restoration work, never in the scenario though.
> 
> Option 3.
> Wood shading with acid tone stain, which I don't think it will work. I've only done it if I was going darker. But it's wouldn't hurt to give it a try


 
The SW stain remover is likened to what you are saying in option 2. Would be the first thing I would do. Just me though.


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## straight_lines

Depending on how detailed the work is I would rather sand than use chemicals.


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## eews

If the stain is a pigment stain, scrub with lacquer thinner and metal bristle toothbrushes - that usually gets most of it out. If the stain is dye stain, that won't work; you could try bleaching it with A/B.


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## Harry

I hate to say this but...

That's why you should always do a real life sample or a large sample. I'm sure that we all have been through the type of deal where the HO approved a sample but didn't like the result on a large area.

Write this lesson down in your book...

I've checked all over for you and you've got the answers above... doesn't look good.


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## Mplspaint01

Anyone have more input on sealers prior to stains? I have heard of this but never used this method. Does a sealer allow the grain to accept the stain? Or do you get more of a solid look to the stain that does not show as much of the wood details? I would imagine the sealer also locks down even more grain if put prior to the stain. 

I ended up having the homeowner keep the stain like it is and will come back in a few week to see if he has "lightened up" to the color!


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## ewingpainting.net

Mplspaint01 said:


> Anyone have more input on sealers prior to stains? I have heard of this but never used this method. Does a sealer allow the grain to accept the stain? Or do you get more of a solid look to the stain that does not show as much of the wood details? I would imagine the sealer also locks down even more grain if put prior to the stain.
> 
> I ended up having the homeowner keep the stain like it is and will come back in a few week to see if he has "lightened up" to the color!


1 part sanding sealer to 1 part lacquer thinner. This just seals the pores, no build. This gives you more control of the stain. Always do your samples with this system. Colors can be darkened or lightened as needed. All my stain colors are special matches any way as the samples from the manufactures will never look the same on whatever wood surface.


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## straight_lines

I always use a conditioner unless its a really hardwood. 

Products like Amazing Stain, and Microton Dyes from MLCampbell  are what I use in the shop.


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## hammerheart14

ewingpainting.net said:


> BTW, this is why I seal wood prior to staining. It can all ways be washed off if there is a change of mind or a mess up. Plus it uniforms the stain more.


That's just for interior though, right?


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## Bighead

Paradigmzz said:


> going darker is easy, going lighter ain't gonna happen.



How do you darken over poly?


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