# Paint Grade Cabinets



## Sustainable in OR. (Dec 30, 2010)

Want to try (practice) on first set of cabinets with HVLP. 

What paint would normally be used for todays "White Kitchen & Bath" cabinets. I have sprayed trim base, casings in the past with good results & luck using Pro-Classic WB & Oil. 

Would guess a Semi-gloss. Just practicing for now but I may be willing to try a small job in the future. 

Any ideas about on site set-up, equipment, products would be helpful.

I realize the removal of doors/hardware is pretty much a given on this type of project.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Insl-X cabinet coat satin. Great stuff.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Pro-Classic? With Oil I generally go with Satin and with WB I go Semi-gloss. I prefer an airless myself, but I've done a lot of cabinets. When you say practice? What do you mean? Practicing on your own cabinets?


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## Sustainable in OR. (Dec 30, 2010)

I have a few left over cabinets from a recent demo job (By another company) available at no charge. When I'm done with them will go to the recycle yard. These will be the practice material. Originally painted, installed approx late 50s with a painted finish-oil based. 

Thanks.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Go to town brotha. No harm no foul if they are junkers. Why would it matter if its for practice anyways? What matters is learning hand skills in spraying. Developing patterns and strokes. Paint material is not exactly critical. 

What is it you want to know?


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Rcon said:


> Insl-X cabinet coat satin. Great stuff.


Alec,

Have you tried the BM Advance? I did this with it and I really liked the finish. My builder prefers a brushed finish. I found it ran/ sagged if I was not vigilant and light with the coats. It took 1 coat of Coverstain and 3 of Advance :jester:! - my little guy (future Pt'er) wanted me to put these faces in - ha ha!

Anyway I have 2 paint grade vanities coming to my shop on Monday and wanted to try Cabinet Coat. Same custom builder - prefers a brushed finish - will it brush out nice, is it durable and how is the cure time?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Are these repaints or new?


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## canadianpainter (Mar 7, 2009)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Same custom builder - *prefers a brushed finish *- will it brush out nice, is it durable and how is the cure time?


LOL One of the contractors I do a lot of work for used to specify that we brush stuff like this. Then on one job I said 'screw it' and sprayed the finish and I've been doing it for him ever since. Personally, I think a lot of contractors who 'prefer a brushed' finished just don't trust the guys they hire.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

They also built this on site. i have to agree this would not look right sprayed.


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## Sustainable in OR. (Dec 30, 2010)

Jeff, 

Would like to know thoughts on why this build on site arch & cabinets would not look right or "OK" if it was sprayed?
Seems like it might be a bit of work but results would be excellent


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

ROOMINADAY said:


> They also built this on site. i have to agree this would not look right sprayed.


No offence but everything looks better sprayed. Why would you ever want brush marks?

Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Sustainable in OR. said:


> Jeff,
> 
> Would like to know thoughts on why this build on site arch & cabinets would not look right or "OK" if it was sprayed?
> Seems like it might be a bit of work but results would be excellent



Im confused why it would be more work to spray vs. brush. Proper prep and cover is not as tedious or time consuming as brushing IMO


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

ROOMINADAY said:


> They also built this on site. i have to agree this would not look right sprayed.



I have always thought regardless of circumstance spray finish always is the best... However faux finish is hot with the higher end clientele

Some fine finish mdf cabinets blasted out .. BM cabinet something or other.. Fine finish tip 312( i think) 540 titan .. turns the sprayer into a hvlp ...well almost


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

jason123 said:


> I have always thought regardless of circumstance spray finish always is the best... However faux finish is hot with the higher end clientele


Scratching my head at this one. Jason, do you paint? Even a faux finish has a base coat...

Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> Im confused why it would be more work to spray vs. brush. Proper prep and cover is not as tedious or time consuming as brushing IMO



Tell you the truth I have seen "pros" afraid to spray.. I took me a couple of years to realize why T F aint I spraying


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

jason123 said:


> Tell you the truth I have seen "pros" afraid to spray.. I took me a couple of years to realize why T F aint I spraying


Old habits die hard. People get comfortable with routine.

Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Sustainable in OR. said:


> Want to try (practice) on first set of cabinets with HVLP.
> 
> What paint would normally be used for todays "White Kitchen & Bath" cabinets. I have sprayed trim base, casings in the past with good results & luck using Pro-Classic WB & Oil.
> 
> ...


Hey, I see your in Portland? My number is in any of the links below. Give me a call and I will show you the system I have for cabinets. Its a Pivot Pro Rack where you spray both sides of the door then I have a set up for them to hang and dry. Havent done many cabinets the last couple years, but back in the day I sprayed cabinets on a daily basis. Paint grade and stain & lacquer. I have tried every system I can think of. Done them new built on site, refinish, removing the doors, temp hinges, painting the hinges (yes they were actually doing that in Texas back in the 80s on new construction) Pulling the doors and painting one side at a time, have even tried hanging them on a line and spraying, you name it, I tried it. Anyway, the Pivot Pro works great on cabinet doors. Used it for the first time in a while last week on full size doors for the first time and wasnt too happy with that though. But for cabinet doors? Oh yeah :thumbup: And yeah, I have brushed my share of cabinets out too


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

Brushing versus spraying? I am slower than Christmas with a brush. I use an airless and don't thin my enamel. I have a Graco 395 and make light passes to avoid runs.

Having said that, I just finished wainscoting my own dining room and tried something different. I used a mini roller to apply pro classic semi-gloss to about 8 inches at a time and then dragged a brush down it to create a hand-brushed look. I know this is nothing ground-breaking, but I was impressed by how fast it went, being such a fan of spraying.

Furthermore, it was super simple set up and having 6 kids under my roof two of which are 4 month old twins, spraying wouldn't have been practical.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

A+HomeWork said:


> Brushing versus spraying? I am slower than Christmas with a brush. I use an airless and don't thin my enamel. I have a Graco 395 and make light passes to avoid runs.
> 
> Having said that, I just finished wainscoting my own dining room and tried something different. I used a mini roller to apply pro classic semi-gloss to about 8 inches at a time and then dragged a brush down it to create a hand-brushed look. I know this is nothing ground-breaking, but I was impressed by how fast it went, being such a fan of spraying.
> 
> Furthermore, it was super simple set up and having 6 kids under my roof two of which are 4 month old twins, spraying wouldn't have been practical.


Much of its regional. Ive worked all over the US and seen a lot of different things. In Texas we sprayed EVERYTHING!!! Went to Georgia and they were brushing everything.  As for shooting oil? I prefer to shoot a tack coat, let it flash, then come back and drill it. Also seen guys who insist on back brushing behind a roller and others who dont. Rolled enough hollow metal doors over the years I dont back brush myself and can make them look like they were sprayed. Was working with a guy from Mississippi a couple years back and hie said "You take a roller to a door in Biloxi Mississippi and they will run your a$$ off the job!!!!" I replied, "Well, you take a brush to a hollow metal door in Portland Oregon and ......" Its different everywhere. I dont see many good brush men these days like I used to. When I was an apprentice a true painter was refered to as "a mechanic" Havent even heard that term in years. Or when seeking work, the boss would ask "can you run enamel" Maybe that was a Texas thing too. Havent heard that one in years. Then again, enamel has changed over the years.


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> No offence but everything looks better sprayed. Why would you ever want brush marks?
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


The arch is a mix of MDF, and wood, so the brush work blends all the different woods perfectly. The house also was designed to have an "antique feel" to it as should the finishes. It is also not my say on this project - we wanted to spray. We still make the same money either way and the referrals are great.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> The arch is a mix of MDF, and wood, so the brush work blends all the different woods perfectly. The house also was designed to have an "antique feel" to it as should the finishes. It is also not my say on this project - we wanted to spray. We still make the same money either way and the referrals are great.


That makes sense, I was wondering too!


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

I have learned something about methodology. Like someone said on another thread, "There's more than one way to skin a cat."

If the customer wants brush lines, then that's what's right in that case.

I took a chance and refinished my own wood floors before moving in to my current house. I asked a floor guy for tips. I asked the rental shop for tips and rented the stuff they advised.

Later, a friend came by while I was in the process of sanding and was critical. I continued with what I was told and all turned-out well. I know there could have been better methods, but I saved a ton and learned a lot too. We are happy and other compliment the floors all the time.

See my photos of the wainscoting...

WOODLAND is right. It all depends on who you talk to.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> The arch is a mix of MDF, and wood, so the brush work blends all the different woods perfectly. The house also was designed to have an "antique feel" to it as should the finishes. It is also not my say on this project - we wanted to spray. We still make the same money either way and the referrals are great.


 Depending on the species, and the grade of MDF, ML Campbell would have the right primer for you. If its popular and mdf Clawlock 2 would work nice as well, or use slow drying BM penetrating oil primer.

You really have to be very peculiar when you sand exposed mdf that has been tooled. :thumbsup:


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## jason123 (Jul 2, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> Scratching my head at this one. Jason, do you paint? Even a faux finish has a base coat...
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


I was trying to be nice and make a stretch..I was supposing that possible I could pass of faux finish job on a high end clientele because i could circumvent the fact the finish was not superior... Touchè I suppose you could counter attack by inferring that a hand painted faux job could be as an exceptionally finish as an airless sprayed or maybe even HVLP...duhn duhn duh n duhn .. now all bets are off..

Hey at least Im not fighting with the MRS


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

jason123 said:


> I was trying to be nice and make a stretch..I was supposing that possible I could pass of faux finish job on a high end clientele because i could circumvent the fact the finish was not superior... Touchè I suppose you could counter attack by inferring that a hand painted faux job could be as an exceptionally finish as an airless sprayed or maybe even HVLP...duhn duhn duh n duhn .. now all bets are off..
> 
> Hey at least Im not fighting with the MRS


What? I'm confused.... are you drinking? 

Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

Never thought about brush marks looking better then spray finish.

On any cabinets or wainscott or doortrim I;ve ever done it's always spray,well,99% of it anyway.

I did run across a lady with old doors that were already brushmarked who wanted them, brushed again,I just wish she wouldve told me that before I sprayed them,she just assumed I would brush them and I just assumed she didnt care how I painted the doors as long as they were covered.

I just follow an old saying my boss told me once he said"whats faster,dipping and brushing and laying off your paint or doing a little extra covering pumping up and spraying"?I know of no quicker easier way to get the paint from the bucket onto the substrate than with an airless.

And I saw someone else mention wanting to paint cabinets with an HVLP and I ask you sir why?

What does your HVLP hold?2 and a half gallons?An airless will hold 5 gallons and with properly thinned and a fine finish tip,you can make a finish look as good as an HVLP only quicker


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

propainterJ said:


> And I saw someone else mention wanting to paint cabinets with an HVLP and I ask you sir why?


I do a lot of new kitchens. With an HVLP you get more control & no spitting. However, I do prime with an airless. An airless is faster, but it doesn't take any more than another hour or so to apply the finish coats with my HVLP. And, the clean up is faster. I use a compressor driven Accuspray Versamax system, with a 2 qt. pressure pot. Oil or latex, it doesn't matter, with the right fluid sets, the results are always excellent. To each his own.

And that's my 2 cents.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

And how do you maintain a wet edge with a 2 qt max system?

What happens when you run out of material a quarter of the way through a whole kitchen?


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Alec,
> 
> Have you tried the BM Advance? I did this with it and I really liked the finish. My builder prefers a brushed finish. I found it ran/ sagged if I was not vigilant and light with the coats. It took 1 coat of Coverstain and 3 of Advance :jester:! - my little guy (future Pt'er) wanted me to put these faces in - ha ha!
> 
> Anyway I have 2 paint grade vanities coming to my shop on Monday and wanted to try Cabinet Coat. Same custom builder - prefers a brushed finish - will it brush out nice, is it durable and how is the cure time?


Sorry Jeff - hadn't seen this thread since it was originally posted! 

Your work in the photos turned out nice! Was that originally MDF? 

I Haven't tried the Advance yet but been looking for an opportunity to give it a shot. The only thing i'm concerned about with it is the extended dry time, but I suppose depending on the application it might come in handy. 

Cabinet coat brushes out real nice. Flows easily and levels perfectly. It doesn't dry as fast as most other latex paints so you have time to work with it, but it still dries reasonably fast when compared with an oil product. Depending on environmental conditions it can usually be recoated within about 4 hours.The only drawbacks are that it is only available in white and pastel colours. When it comes to darker colours on finishes such as that i'm finding that i'm moving away from paints alltogether and swaying more towards wb lacquers like MLC's Agualente.


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

propainterJ said:


> And how do you maintain a wet edge with a 2 qt max system?
> 
> What happens when you run out of material a quarter of the way through a whole kitchen?


It takes about 3 minutes to refill the pot. The paint doesn't dry that fast. I have never had a problem with keeping a wet edge.


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