# Wallpaper Layering Question



## nkpaintingvt

I'm using a steamer to remove some wallpaper in a kitchen. The top layer is coming off with ease, though I'm discovering another layer beneath that is far more difficult to remove. I thought it was paint until I found a faint seam, it just doesn't present like any wallpaper I've ever seen. The steamer is doing just about nothing, and when it loosens enough to get a knife beneath it tears up the substrate. Clearly it's bonded very, very well. 

Questions:

- Does this strike anyone as normal for a certain kind of wallpaper or wallpaper adhesive?

- It looks like the bottom layer of wallpaper was coated with a mostly clear, greyish product. Was this glue? A primer of sorts? 

- Anyone see a risk in painting over the bottom layer of wallpaper? If the steamer doesn't affect it I'm assuming a water based paint won't. 

Thanks!


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## Brushman4

This happens quite often, especially if the walls weren't prepped properly before hanging.

Wallpaper steamers to me are a joke unless you like to get your armpits nice and juicy. You may want to try a https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...per-removal-products/papertiger-scoring-tool/ before soaking the wall!


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## finishesbykevyn

It's possible that they wallpapered over bare drywall. If this is the case, your best off priming and painting, or ripping the drywall out. I've painted over lots of wallpaper with great success. Prime with Gardz, skim seems, paint as usual.
Or as brushman said, paper tiger the wall first to allow water/steam to get in behind paper..
.

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## Delta Painting

Look's like the old paper was sized you are gonna play hell getting that off. I would re-prime, skim seams prime all patches \ seams then paint the finish..


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## Woodco

Agreed. Its obviously stuck on there pretty damn good, so leave it as a surface. Thats probably why the papered over it in the first place.


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## nkpaintingvt

Thanks for the feedback everyone, that was helpful. Here's an update:

I steamed off the top layer of paper with no issues, and the bottom layer stayed solid throughout the entire process.

However, when I looped back to sponge the remaining adhesive off of the walls, that's when the bottom layer started blistering. As I made passes with a sponge I watched the blisters form immediately. Holding the steamer on seams did nothing the day before, and now a luke warm water sponge cleaning wreaks havoc. 

Makes me wonder if the remaining glue acted as a moisture barrier, and once I removed that with a sponge that allowed moisture to get through. 

It seems like I'm now in a place where I must remove the stubborn bottom layer of wallpaper. I did a sample area with the steamer and figured out why it was papered to begin with - bad wall damage. 

I know I just threw a lot out there, but does anyone see a viable way forward other than complete removal? I think I'll try a Tiger Tail plus steam, but does anyone have a chemical route they like?

Assuming the removal route, should I prime before my skim coat or just do a throughout cleaning?

Thanks again!


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## Gymschu

It doesn't like too bad. I would apply GARDZ to the areas where the paper from the drywall has peeled off down to the brown cardboard like paper. Then, skim those areas ONLY. You want that wall to be flat, no high or low spots that will telegraph through the new paper. You will also want to apply Gardz to what looks like drywall repair areas that may not have been primed originally.


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## nkpaintingvt

Gymschu said:


> It doesn't like too bad. I would apply GARDZ to the areas where the paper from the drywall has peeled off down to the brown cardboard like paper. Then, skim those areas ONLY. You want that wall to be flat, no high or low spots that will telegraph through the new paper. You will also want to apply Gardz to what looks like drywall repair areas that may not have been primed originally.


Just to clarify, I'm painting over this not wallpapering.


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## jennifertemple

nkpaintingvt said:


> Just to clarify, I'm painting over this not wallpapering.



I would prime, skim and prime again and paint. You are going to be there for ever if you try to strip it clean and probably damage the drywall in the process, especially if they pasted right to raw drywall.


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## nkpaintingvt

jennifertemple said:


> I would prime, skim and prime again and paint. You are going to be there for ever if you try to strip it clean and probably damage the drywall in the process, especially if they pasted right to raw drywall.


To be sure, are you recommending I prime, see what bubbles up, take care of those with a skim, and seal those all up with another layer of primer? 

Based on what I observed with the last sponge cleaning, there will be blisters everywhere if the primer behaves similarly.


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## Woodco

I think everyones suggesting Gardz the whole thing, take care of bubbles, spot prime those areas. Maybe even give it two coats of gardz. It wouldnt hurt. Then skimcoat the whole thing, sand and gardz that as well. Then paint.


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## nkpaintingvt

Woodco said:


> I think everyones suggesting Gardz the whole thing, take care of bubbles, spot prime those areas. Maybe even give it two coats of gardz. It wouldnt hurt. Then skimcoat the whole thing, sand and gardz that as well. Then paint.


Would you recommend sponging off all of the previous layer's adhesive residue, or can Gardz bond to that?


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## Brushman4

Where the hell is futty, expounding on the virtues of Guardz?


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## finishesbykevyn

nkpaintingvt said:


> Would you recommend sponging off all of the previous layer's adhesive residue, or can Gardz bond to that?


I would just prime over the glue if the paper is starting to react. Gardz is designed for that. Or coverstain, but way more stinky. Is the place empty? Gutted? 
If it is, Im just wondering if putting up new drywall is a viable solution also. Either way, you have your hands full!

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## nkpaintingvt

One full day of stripping later and the tricky bottom layer is gone. It took quite a bit of scoring, saturating, and steaming, but it all came off with minimal wall damage. I'll still need to do a skim coat but overall I'm in good shape.

I was also surprised to find that Gardz isn't sold anywhere near me. Any other similar water based products from BM or SW?


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## finishesbykevyn

nkpaintingvt said:


> One full day of stripping later and the tricky bottom layer is gone. It took quite a bit of scoring, saturating, and steaming, but it all came off with minimal wall damage. I'll still need to do a skim coat but overall I'm in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> I was also surprised to find that Gardz isn't sold anywhere near me. Any other similar water based products from BM or SW?


Nice one! Home Depot usually stocks Gardz. Don't let them talk you into a regular latex primer. It won't work. My runner up would be coverstain. But make sure to ventilate if you go that route..

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## Gwarel

nkpaintingvt said:


> One full day of stripping later and the tricky bottom layer is gone. It took quite a bit of scoring, saturating, and steaming, but it all came off with minimal wall damage. I'll still need to do a skim coat but overall I'm in good shape.


The story of my wallpaper stripping life. Starts out with "What did I get myself into?" Then after hours if not days of persistence, I usually get to the point where it looks like I know what I'm doing......


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## Woodco

nkpaintingvt said:


> One full day of stripping later and the tricky bottom layer is gone. It took quite a bit of scoring, saturating, and steaming, but it all came off with minimal wall damage. I'll still need to do a skim coat but overall I'm in good shape.
> 
> I was also surprised to find that Gardz isn't sold anywhere near me. Any other similar water based products from BM or SW?


Gardz is labelled as Allprime at BM. SW and lowes sell a product called RX-35 Pro 999. Its just like gardz. Some people say its not as good, but I havent noticed a difference.

If all else fails, ask your paint store for a 'problem surface sealer.' and make sure it talks about damaged drywall on the label.


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## Quan

get a hand masker with masking film run a piece of film at the top of your wall, don't unfold it yet. Now wet the paper , I use a Hudson sprayer once you get about 6 or 8 feet soaked you let the film down it will cling to the wet wall , now just let it sit the moisture has only one place to go. Some times it takes a couple of hours but when its ready it will come off like you just hung it. 

be careful if there are wood floors or base,you will have to mask with another piece of plastic so you can keep the wood dry


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## AnthonyFalzon

Walls definitely need repriming


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## Woodco

AnthonyFalzon said:


> Walls definitely need repriming


The hell is wrong with you??


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## Wildbill7145

Woodco said:


> The hell is wrong with you??



21 posts in 13 minutes. lain:


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## slinger58

Wildbill7145 said:


> 21 posts in 13 minutes. lain:




And just like that, he was gone. Lol


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## tulsaroof

Gymschu said:


> It doesn't like too bad. I would apply GARDZ to the areas where the paper from the drywall has peeled off down to the brown cardboard like paper. Then, skim those areas ONLY. You want that wall to be flat, no high or low spots that will telegraph through the new paper. You will also want to apply Gardz to what looks like drywall repair areas that may not have been primed originally.


I agree. Best to be thorough


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## Woodco

slinger58 said:


> And just like that, he was gone. Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


And hes BACK, with a different name.... WTF??


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## cleaningguy

this is very timely. Glad I saw this


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## NCDrywallKings

*Wallpaper*

Better of just priming and painting.


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