# prime and paint T-111 siding



## tavennerpride

What is the best way to prime and paint T-111 that will last more than 7 years. I have always used zinser primer and superpaint, spraying and backrolling obviously. But it always seems to fail within 7 years. Is there a better primer to use before I apply the superpaint? All houses I do are always repaints. Maybe one to two new houses a year. But here in Montana there isn't much VOC restrictions, so we still got great products. But the only jobs that don't seem to last long are houses with T-111 siding. Thanks

By the way new to painttalk.com. So hello everybody.


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## Bushdude

7 years for exteriors is pretty damn good, nothing will hold up forever...


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## tsunamicontract

ask "primerguy" about his xim peelbond primer for t111


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## vermontpainter

Tav

I think thats as much a material failure as anything. T-111 isnt particularly weather resistant no matter what you put on it. It delaminates. If I had to do it, I would do oil primer and good latex topcoats. 

Where in Montana are you?


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## timhag

Try staining, ( BEHR PRODUCTS ONLY) I have had great success staining T-111.


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## CApainter

Thanks for the question Tpride. i am also not certain what's the best system for T1-11. 

I had a project recently with T1-11 siding, and I asked my paint supplier of Ben Moore, what's the best system. he recommended Cabot oil base solid stain instead of an oil base primer and acrylic finish i was planning on putting on. 

The Cabot solid stain covered great in one coat, but it reeked for ever. I also would like to know a system where I can use an acrylic finish.


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## DeanV

I would probably lean towards an oil first coat (solid stain or primer) followed by an acrylic stain.


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## [email protected]

Xim Peel bond sprayed and backrolled then sprayed one more time before 2 coats of Super Paint. Duration if you want... but it's not warranted against fading... I wouldn't use it. Hate it when paint fades, even if it is the "BEST" paint. Stay with the Super the warranty is better.


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## tavennerpride

I paint out of a little town called Ennis. If you know the area at all its about 60 miles north of west yellowstone. And ya I understand 7 years is pretty good, But most of the houses I first ever painted 10 years ago are still in decent shape, besides the trim. Like I said most not all. But again those houses weren't sided with t111. I personally am satisfied with 7 years of life and clients are to, I just thought that maybe there was an even a longer lasting way to paint t111. I looked into the xim peel bond almost sounds like zinssers peelguard. Would like to try it out sometime. But thanks guys.


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## tsunamicontract

i have used both now (just tried out some peelbond) and its not the same at all. the peelstop from zinsser is like watery glue that you paste on and it sits on top of the wood. the peelbond applies like paint (doesn't run off the brush and make a mess) and it soaks in really nicely, dare i say almost like an oil would. I have done one coat of peelstop and one coat of duration over it on some pretty bad wood and it looked ok and it still is holding on after a really hard winter. The peelbond you can mix some topcoat in to get a little coverage which is nice.


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## MAK-Deco

tsunamicontract said:


> i have used both now (just tried out some peelbond) and its not the same at all. the peelstop from zinsser is like watery glue that you paste on and it sits on top of the wood. the peelbond applies like paint (doesn't run off the brush and make a mess) and it soaks in really nicely, dare i say almost like an oil would. I have done one coat of peelstop and one coat of duration over it on some pretty bad wood and it looked ok and it still is holding on after a really hard winter. The peelbond you can mix some topcoat in to get a little coverage which is nice.


I like peelbond also. I think peelstop was a copy try of peelpond and not sure how much they sell of that. Zinsser makes some good products other then peelstop.


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## CApainter

I will use the XIM Peelbond on an upcoming project. I'll probably top coat it with a Benjamin Moore product.

Thanks.


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## Primer Guy

PeelBond was originally developed for a large T1-11 apartment project. It has been on the walls of a previously poor condition 500 unit complex for over 5 years. It still looks great with no cracking or checking. The projects across the street primed with an oil primer at the same time are being repainted already. The Peel Bond demo boards are all done on T1-111. Peel Bond will seal the wood and best of all it moves with the substrate and does not dry out and crack. For a premium job, spray Peel Bond at 10mils WFT to seal the wood. Apply a surfacing coat at 10-20 WFT mils for a total 10 mils DFT. Use a quality topcoat (averages 25% less needed because of holdout) and you have a system that will last 40% longer than an oil primer and look a heck of a lot better.

Check out the Peel Bond video at the peelbond.com


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## tntpainting

as much as i hate behr paint i have to admit their stains and oil based paints are ok ive had good results from both from customers who insisted i used them but the interior is crap


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## timhag

tntpainting said:


> as much as i hate behr paint i have to admit their stains and oil based paints are ok ive had good results from both from customers who insisted i used them


*GET EM NEPS* :yes::yes:


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## winecountrypainter

The best primer for T-111 is Never Peel check it out it comes in a gray when you have tannin bleed issues and also a clear version. I use it on all my exterior projects and especially T-111


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## Formulator

tavennerpride said:


> What is the best way to prime and paint T-111 that will last more than 7 years. I have always used zinser primer and superpaint, spraying and backrolling obviously. But it always seems to fail within 7 years. Is there a better primer to use before I apply the superpaint? All houses I do are always repaints. Maybe one to two new houses a year. But here in Montana there isn't much VOC restrictions, so we still got great products. But the only jobs that don't seem to last long are houses with T-111 siding. Thanks
> 
> By the way new to painttalk.com. So hello everybody.


So as not to give bad advice, i'd rather look at aluminum adhesion results again


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## Joewho

I did a job like that 7 yrs. ago for an ex landlord on his personal house in Crystal Lake, IL.

Saw him last week, he was shaking my hand and commenting on how the house is still looking good. He was so happy that he forgave me the rent I owed him before moving to vegas. He owns a bar and I can remember the day he gave me the job. I was sitting next to another painter who was working him, jumped in the conversation and walked away with the job.
The other painter was cool about it, I'm glad cuz the guy was built like a brick hsit house.

T-1-11 was scraped to bare wood and used 3x cabots on it. South side.

The thing about t-1-11 is that they are not all the same. Some are plywood, older could be solid cedar and some are plywood with a cedar veneer.


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## CApainter

I've decided to go with SW A100 Acrylic primer, and two coats of SW Super paint. 

The siding I'm doing is unprimed, new wood. I'll report the results in seven years.

What'd you decide on TPride?


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## MAK-Deco

Joewho said:


> I did a job like that 7 yrs. ago for an ex landlord on his personal house in Crystal Lake, IL.
> 
> Saw him last week, he was shaking my hand and commenting on how the house is still looking good. He was so happy that he forgave me the rent I owed him before moving to vegas. He owns a bar and I can remember the day he gave me the job. I was sitting next to another painter who was working him, jumped in the conversation and walked away with the job.
> The other painter was cool about it, I'm glad cuz the guy was built like a brick hsit house.
> 
> T-1-11 was scraped to bare wood and used 3x cabots on it. South side.
> 
> The thing about t-1-11 is that they are not all the same. Some are plywood, older could be solid cedar and some are plywood with a cedar veneer.


I think most f the older T111 was solid fir not cedar similar to the soffits that builders use to match the cedar siding most of that stuff is rough fir. Cedar to expensive. Now they have a bunch smart side type products that mimic the T111 look.


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## vermontpainter

Time to take off the painter hat for a minute. Think bigger picture. T-111 is the economy grade of the lumber world...the Ford Escort. Does Ford suggest that you can get 300k miles out of an escort? 7 years is plenty to expect from that material.


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## MAK-Deco

vermontpainter said:


> Time to take off the painter hat for a minute. Think bigger picture. T-111 is the economy grade of the lumber world...the Ford Escort. Does Ford suggest that you can get 300k miles out of an escort? 7 years is plenty to expect from that material.



I don't see why you wouldn't to get more out of the newer materials spec'd to look like T111 with proper sealing and maintenance it should last a long time.


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## vermontpainter

MAK-Deco said:


> I don't see why you wouldn't to get more out of the newer materials spec'd to look like T111 with proper sealing and maintenance it should last a long time.


If its a laminate, it doesnt work. Its a cost effective alternative, but the nature of laminates on exteriors is, ultimately, de-lam...thats the reality of weather: sun, moisture, expansion, contraction...on sheet goods other than, say, MDO, forget about it.


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## MAK-Deco

I have painted the exterior of a 96 unit complex that put smart side T111 on in the 1992-1995 and caulk with vulkem 116 and they have not replaced one sheet! We paint the units every 5 years on a cycle with provt now in the past bm moorlife.

Hardi board now makes one to look like T111 as well


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