# spraying primer



## mcohen88 (Aug 20, 2010)

Im a residential remodeler, up to this point all the paint i do is by hand. I just purchased a 1400 sq cape and installed all new sheet rock so i thought it was time for a sprayer. I got the new graco 390, seemed like a good fit for my needs. My question is, is it really necessary to roll the primer after its sprayed? I'd also really apreciate any other tips about the spraying process. Thanks a lot guys.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

hmmm, I just asked a relatively similar question...despite threats of being kicked off the Island I got off relatively easy. This due to the fact I've posted a few hundred posts (look at that...nearly 300) first and have been here a while. 

Not saying you question isn't valid, but go on over to the introductions and post there 'first'....you'll get a nicer response that way.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Wow dude, a simple no would have been appropriate. @ mcohen88 I don't back roll primer.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Yes, backroll the primer. Better for various reasons.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

.....


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> I agree, back rolling will help build stipple. Stipple helps hide drywall repairs and tape seams.


 I spray alcohol primer in 90% of the NC jobs I have done. I back roll the two finish coats. If your sheetrock guys suck then you need to hire a new one, it should be pointed up and ready to go when the painters get there.

Sorry to be so blunt, but if I have to worry about the finish on NC someone before me isn't doing their job.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> Wow dude, a simple no would have been appropriate. @ mcohen88 I don't back roll primer.


Hey 'Dude', just telling the new poster to go introduce himself before other guys take this thread and run it into a hole as his Post #1 is on "how to"....we've seen it a hundred times. 

Thanks for the PM mcohen88....."welcome" and see you around.


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## mcohen88 (Aug 20, 2010)

Yeah just just popped a post in the intro forum thanks for the advice. So it seems like the general consensus is to backrol,.... especially cause my taping ain't exactly glass. So if backrolled a sanded properly would i be able to spray on my 2 flat finish latex coats without backrolling. Thanks again for the input, its a huge help


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

....


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

......


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## Wallpaper Gypsy (Feb 22, 2010)

mcohen88 said:


> Yeah just just popped a post in the intro forum thanks for the advice. So it seems like the general consensus is to backrol,.... especially cause my taping ain't exactly glass. So if backrolled a sanded properly would i be able to spray on my 2 flat finish latex coats without backrolling. Thanks again for the input, its a huge help


Backroll each coat with lambswool (2x) and you have a superior finish with optimal ability to be touched up without flashing or burnishing. It's worth the extra work!


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> Why do you use alcohol primer on NC? Just curious, mostly PVA here.



Moisture, and mold issues are a concern for these.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Man, that would be tough on the body even with a respirator. With Alcohol as the solvent, it would probably dry too fast to backroll anyway. If you have a level 5 finish (full skim coat of drywall mud over all seams and board ), then I could see skipping the back roll. But, anything less than that I would back roll. Helps even out the texture between board and seams. Plus it seams like on repaints that I can tell have not been back rolled it is more likely that there will be some peeling on the seams.


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## hammerheart14 (May 29, 2010)

mcohen88 said:


> Im a residential remodeler, up to this point all the paint i do is by hand. I just purchased a 1400 sq cape and installed all new sheet rock so i thought it was time for a sprayer. I got the new graco 390, seemed like a good fit for my needs. My question is, is it really necessary to roll the primer after its sprayed? I'd also really apreciate any other tips about the spraying process. Thanks a lot guys.


if there is texture, backroll. if it's smooth, no.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Spray and backroll acrylic or latex primer. Make sure it's a sealer. Backroll finish coats too. Super spec is good.


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## KLaw (May 8, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> Spray and backroll acrylic or latex primer. Make sure it's a sealer. Backroll finish coats too. Super spec is good.


 
This dude ^^^ knows his stuff. I agree with his app methods. Just check out his articles...


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> hmmm, I just asked a relatively similar question...despite threats of being kicked off the Island I got off relatively easy. This due to the fact I've posted a few hundred posts (look at that...nearly 300) first and have been here a while.
> 
> Not saying you question isn't valid, but go on over to the introductions and post there 'first'....you'll get a nicer response that way.


I'd be happy to host a spray seminar (hands on). Just keep me supplied w/soda pop! :thumbsup:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

KLaw said:


> This dude ^^^ knows his stuff. I agree with his app methods. Just check out his articles...


Is this where you start again sev?


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## KLaw (May 8, 2009)

vermontpainter said:


> Is this where you start again sev?


 
Sev?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Yep backroll as it helps apply the product evenly if the sprayer operator is on a learning curve and it helps with touch up as well.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I find that pressure applied paint leaves a more solid finish then just a sprayed application over new drywall, stucco, or concrete.

Also, someone mentioned before about better touch up over a rolled surface.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

KLaw said:


> This dude ^^^ knows his stuff. I agree with his app methods. Just check out his articles...


Klaw,

It's difficult for me to decifer your post as sarcasm, or genuine admiration for our esteemed member.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Also, the greatest benefit of spraying is actually on smooth drywall. The prevalence of textured walls is one reason RCP's spray everything (no brushes, no rollers, etc) method works for him in my opinion. Again, the number one reason to backroll sprayed primer is this is the best way to minimize the telegraphing of seams due to the inherent texture difference of the wallboard and the smoother seams.


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

Please help me understand what you guys want in a spray applied drywall primer.

Do you want it to stipple to cover imperfections in the raw drywall? Do you get that stippling effect by backrolling after spraying? If so, does the primer need a lot of open time?

I'm considering making two versions. One, a low viscosity high solids for HVLP, LVLP, AAA, and airless spraying. The second, same high solids as the first, but higher viscosity for brush/roll, AAA and airless spraying. Both are fast drying (30') easy sanding, very smooth lay out. If you wanted stipple, I could supply a retarder for the second version.

I appreciate, as always, all your opinions to guide me in formulating a wb stain blocking primer that would be of practical use in the many challenging situations the professional painting contracting must face.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

You do need open time to backroll, but most stay wet long enough anyway. Too much open time and the stipple may flow out and lose the effect we are looking for.


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

If you do not backroll the primer you will most likely get the fuzzies that need to be sanded before you top coat. although this is not a problem for me as I always sand after primer on walls.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Fuzzies are much worse if you do not back roll though. Sand with either application method though.


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

*Fuzzies*

Okay, so fuzzies are unavoidable, but can be minimized by backrolling. When you sand to remove fuzzies, won't that level out the stipple? Do you use sandpaper or a sanding screen? What grit? Machine or hand sand?


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

H2O Paint Chemist said:


> Okay, so fuzzies are unavoidable, but can be minimized by backrolling. When you sand to remove fuzzies, won't that level out the stipple? Do you use sandpaper or a sanding screen? What grit? Machine or hand sand?


Pole paper. I prefer 100 grit and a sanding pole. I back roll so "fuzzies" aren't really a problem. I just go over the wall to knock off any bumps or burrs that may have got picked up with the roller. The drywall finishers used to damp mop the walls before we primed, but I don't see that much anymore these day.


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## 6126 (May 9, 2010)

Hey, isn't it about time for Neps do do another poll?  LOL


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## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Wow.... I was reading this and I was surprise about no back-rolling primer, every painter has its reason to work the way they do. 
Since I started working on this trade one of the first things a journeyman teach me was to back roll when spraying primer, it just makes the surface very smooth and even through out the wall.
Back roll is a must I would say!


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

AztecPainting said:


> Wow.... I was reading this and I was surprise about no back-rolling primer, every painter has its reason to work the way they do.
> Since I started working on this trade one of the first things a journeyman teach me was to back roll when spraying primer, it just makes the surface very smooth and even through out the wall.
> Back roll is a must I would say!


Backrolling evens off sprayed primer on raw drywall. Is this meant to level the striping effect you sometimes get from spraying, or even off the differences in absorption from compound and tape on the drywall?


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

DeanV said:


> You do need open time to backroll, but most stay wet long enough anyway. Too much open time and the stipple may flow out and lose the effect we are looking for.


Do you use a special roller to get the stipple effect? I've gone to a lot of trouble to make my primer lay out super smooth. If stippling is normal with shellac and oil primers, you might have to use a textured roller to create stipple with my new wb primer.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I used latex primer (BM 253 or sometimes their vapor barrier). It stipples just fine. Solvent bases sealers for drywall are non-standard in this application. No special roller cover needed or desired. Just use a 1/2 inch cover.


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

Also, I have never met the tip that did not spit and sputter at times. That always leaves a glob or two and then if you roll that small part to evn it out it will not match the texture of the spray. Also, yopu have to account for the fingers a spray pattern may leave behind. 

As far as sandpaper I would use the black sheetrock sanding paper in a finer grit because your just wanting to scuff sand unless you come behind on a repaint where the walls feel like bark after following a idiot that thinks they can paint. I usually use the sanding screens though. Seems to cut back on the chance of the sanding head flipping and gouging the rock when you start to really move.


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## Wallpaper Gypsy (Feb 22, 2010)

H2O Paint Chemist said:


> Do you use a special roller to get the stipple effect? I've gone to a lot of trouble to make my primer lay out super smooth. If stippling is normal with shellac and oil primers, you might have to use a textured roller to create stipple with my new wb primer.


 
Lambswool.


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## mcohen88 (Aug 20, 2010)

Thanks alot for all your insight guys its gonna help me alot with this new transition which is a little intimidating when for me time is always of the essence on these flips


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

H2O Paint Chemist said:


> Backrolling evens off sprayed primer on raw drywall. Is this meant to level the striping effect you sometimes get from spraying, or even off the differences in absorption from compound and tape on the drywall?


Your looking at this all wrong there laddy,,

I haven't spent a night at the Holiday Inn Exspress, but I did do drywall for 30 years. 

The brand of paint or the type of roller will NEVER eliminate the need to back-roll. Drywall paper and drywall joint coumpund have a differant texture. Add the sanding of the drywall, and the dust that is left clinging to the paper on the drywall and you can deduce the fact that a piant is NEVER gonna fix that. Primer is back-rolled for several reasons, one is that the roller will "suck up" the dust and move it around, it will also give you a similar texture between the paper and the joint compound. 

If you just spray, and don't back-roll, you will "capture" the dust and hold it in a "hairy beast-like fur coat" on your wall. At that point, you are behind the eight-ball and will spend all of your time trying to fix the problem that you "inadvertatly" created for yourself.

Sad but true.:thumbsup:


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## H2O Paint Chemist (Jan 7, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Your looking at this all wrong there laddy,,
> 
> I haven't spent a night at the Holiday Inn Exspress, but I did do drywall for 30 years.
> 
> ...


It's insights like this that make this forum great. I would never in a million years have known this. I'm a paint chemist, not a painter. The chemist should be in the service of the painter, not the other way around.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> If you just spray, and don't back-roll, you will "capture" the dust and hold it in a "hairy beast-like fur coat" on your wall. At that point, you are behind the eight-ball and will spend all of your time trying to fix the problem that you "inadvertatly" created for yourself.
> 
> Sad but true.:thumbsup:


 True to a point, but if you do get most of the dust knocked down first then you negate that problem. I have used different tools like a leaf blower, and air hose and compressor in the past to eliminated the clingy dust. 

Do you do a lot of waterfront stuff?


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> Moisture, and mold issues are a concern for these.


Yeah, those beach side benches to get hammered pretty hard.

:jester:


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

mcohen88 said:


> My question is, is it really necessary to roll the primer after its sprayed?



No. 

Proper penetration, and uniform sealing should be achieved without back-rolling.


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## Paintuh4Life (May 20, 2009)

straight_lines said:


> True to a point, but if you do get most of the dust knocked down first then you negate that problem. I have used different tools like a leaf blower, and air hose and compressor in the past to eliminated the clingy dust.



Very important point. Every can of paint sold has an advisory on the label that says you must remove dust from surface before application. That definitely goes for new drywall. If you don't want adhesion problems, remove the dust.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Last Craftsman said:


> No.
> 
> Proper penetration, and uniform sealing should be achieved without back-rolling.




All craftsmen I know back roll prime coat


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> True to a point, but if you do get most of the dust knocked down first then you negate that problem. I have used different tools like a leaf blower, and air hose and compressor in the past to eliminated the clingy dust.
> 
> Do you do a lot of waterfront stuff?


I agree completely. I think that a damp mop is about the best way, after sweeping, vacuming out the boxes and baseboard and then blowing it out. 

Drywall dust is the the most invasive stuff ever made, its a beast to get rid of. I know its easy to say the drywaller sucks, and maybe he does, but if WE don't get our area prepped right, then its who's fault??

I do about a third of my work on houses that I can throw a rock into the ocean. Thats nice,, and in the summer the scenery is GREAT !!!!!!


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

DeanV said:


> All craftsmen I know back roll prime coat


:brows:


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## Wallpaper Gypsy (Feb 22, 2010)

Most architectural specs require it anyway (because they know) And if you're not backrolling, you're laying paint on the surface. Unless it's metal or trim or cheap siding... a sprayer is merely an applicator, not a finish tool.


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## In Demand (Mar 24, 2008)

a 390 is too small for primer, you could probably roll it on just as fast.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

samk069 said:


> Most architectural specs require it anyway (because they know) And if you're not backrolling, you're laying paint on the surface. Unless it's metal or trim or cheap siding... a sprayer is merely an applicator, not a finish tool.


 That is just silly. If the surface is properly prepared you can spray and adhesion will never be an issue. As I said earlier in this thread, if the sheet rock is finished as it should be then your two finish coats will provide plenty of stipple. You will sand between each coat including primer of course.

If not you will need a high build primer, and backroll to hide imperfections.

Primer should be just to prepare the surface to take paint, not repair sh!tty craftsmanship of the sheet rock guys.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

primer also seals the substrate. if you don't work it in, there may not be a great seal. it all depends. theres no one correct answer.


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## Wallpaper Gypsy (Feb 22, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> That is just silly. If the surface is properly prepared you can spray and adhesion will never be an issue. As I said earlier in this thread, if the sheet rock is finished as it should be then your two finish coats will provide plenty of stipple. You will sand between each coat including primer of course.
> 
> If not you will need a high build primer, and backroll to hide imperfections.
> 
> Primer should be just to prepare the surface to take paint, not repair sh!tty craftsmanship of the sheet rock guys.


Talk about silly. I thought this was a forum with experience. It's called building a finish. When you "rip" the paint with a lambswool roller, provided it's got the right amount of tack(not too much not too little,) then the second fills it and the sheen is even and lusterous. Not so with a spray finish on drywall. And no- you cannot get a stipple without backrolling. 
If you do big commercial jobs, you may want to read the architect's specs, unless that kind of thing doesn't make a hill of beans to ya. What they think and all. But it should, it is a contract after all.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

TJ Paint said:


> primer also seals the substrate. if you don't work it in, there may not be a great seal. it all depends. theres no one correct answer.


 Maybe on porous surfaces, but finished sheet rock is supposed to be smooth.



samk069 said:


> Talk about silly. I thought this was a forum with experience. It's called building a finish. When you "rip" the paint with a lambswool roller, provided it's got the right amount of tack(not too much not too little,) then the second fills it and the sheen is even and lusterous. Not so with a spray finish on drywall. And no- you cannot get a stipple without backrolling.


 I have plenty of experience doing high end custom homes, and I assure my finishes are flawless. You are more than welcome to look at my portfolio. As I said before if the sheet rock finish was done correctly, then you get plenty of stipple when you back roll the two finish coats.


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## Wallpaper Gypsy (Feb 22, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Maybe on porous surfaces, but finished sheet rock is supposed to be smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> I have plenty of experience doing high end custom homes, and I assure my finishes are flawless. You are more than welcome to look at my portfolio. As I said before if the sheet rock finish was done correctly, then you get plenty of stipple when you back roll the two finish coats.


I didn't see the part about back rolling the two finish coats. Sorry about that. Though, I didn't say adhesion was the issue. Laying it off is.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

ModernStyle said:


> a 390 is too small for primer, you could probably roll it on just as fast.


Huh? Say again. A 390 will support a 517 just fine. Probably a 519


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> That is just silly. If the surface is properly prepared you can spray and adhesion will never be an issue. As I said earlier in this thread, if the sheet rock is finished as it should be then your two finish coats will provide plenty of stipple. You will sand between each coat including primer of course.
> 
> If not you will need a high build primer, and backroll to hide imperfections.
> 
> Primer should be just to prepare the surface to take paint, not repair sh!tty craftsmanship of the sheet rock guys.


I know you really don't like the ****&y drywall guys, but have you ever considered that ,,

backrolling = dampmopping ???

It does the same thing. 

Are you saying that two coats of finish paint will erase the fur coat of sprayed primer on drywall dust ??

Not trying to get you pee-o'd at me, but I do have a point here.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The benefits of backrolling have nothing at all to do with a crappy drywall job. The benefits apply to great drywall jobs and will not fix crappy drywall jobs at all. The only possible reason not to back roll is if you are working only with a level 5 finish and are 100% certain all the dust is removed from the drywall.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

DeanV said:


> The benefits of backrolling have nothing at all to do with a crappy drywall job. The benefits apply to great drywall jobs and will not fix crappy drywall jobs at all. The only possible reason not to back roll is if you are working only with a level 5 finish and are 100% certain all the dust is removed from the drywall.


Even on a L-5 I would go down to a 3/8" nap instead of 1/2". I have a L-5 coming up in a few months.


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## ewingpainting.net (Jun 2, 2008)

I don't think I know of a drywaller that is capable of achieving a level 5. I just assumed L5 was a myth.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I know you really don't like the ****&y drywall guys, but have you ever considered that ,,
> 
> backrolling = dampmopping ???
> 
> ...


 If you remove as much dust as possible, sand between primer, and first coat yes. Also its not the same as wet moping because the dust is still in your paint with back rolling, just is more evenly distributed. I'm not calling you out man, but many a GC will hire some jackass dry wall contractor, and expect you to point up the walls for free. So I guess my frustration with that little nugget is coming though.

I think you can look at it the same way as having dust on the exterior of a home and saying you better back roll and mix that dust in or it won't adhere correctly and show up in your finish.

I do realize that different job call for different techniques. You probably have to blow and go on many to make any money, I get that. Back rolling is the most efficient way of doing that.




DeanV said:


> The benefits of backrolling have nothing at all to do with a crappy drywall job. The benefits apply to great drywall jobs and will not fix crappy drywall jobs at all. The only possible reason not to back roll is if you are working only with a level 5 finish and are 100% certain all the dust is removed from the drywall.


 We are talking the primer coat here, not the two finish coats. Of course you will have to back roll them.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The primer coat is the most important to backroll from a function standpoint.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

I asked my auto body guy to back roll the primer coat on my box truck last month and he looked at me funny.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Apples and oranges. We do not backroll smooth trim work either. But porous surfaces (exterior grade wood or drywall) would get back rolled or brushed. Shoot, rough edges of trim usually need a little brush work to seal up MDF butt ends or wood butt ends if they are exposed.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Dean drywall is less porous than pine or fir interior trim, which is my whole point. The reason these guys are giving for back rolling primer are because the surface isn't prepped properly, be it uniformity or dust.


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## 4ThGeneration (Apr 17, 2007)

I think we should rename sheetrock to sh!trock because thats usually the conditionn of it when we always painted it. We got to a point where we charged for an extra coat on new construction. We would prime and go back with a light ourselves, marking all imperfections with a penny just to show those dudes what needed to be pointed up.

We did have a good drywall company we painted behind, but I did say 1!


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The texture of the board is not a defect in the finshing. You cannot sand it out. Drywallers cannot do anything about it without doing a rarely spec'd level 5 finish. It is inherent in every single piece of wallboard in existence in the past, present, and future. Where is that stupid beating a dead horse smiley?????


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

You still keep arguing that you *have* to back roll primer when you don't. If the wall is pointed up properly, and the dust is removed (ie Proper surface prep that any painter should know) then the two finish coats being back rolled will even out any texture difference, and produce a high quality finish.


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## Last Craftsman (Dec 5, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> You still keep arguing that you *have* to back roll primer when you don't. If the wall is pointed up properly, and the dust is removed (ie Proper surface prep that any painter should know) then the two finish coats being back rolled will even out any texture difference, and produce a high quality finish.


This is an interesting conversation. I actually didn't know there was a debate on the issue.

I was personally being sarcastic when I said primer doesn't need to be backrolled. I have never heard of not backrolling primer. 

But I believe Straight_Lines if he says he can make it look right without backrolling the primer coat. I don't have any reason to doubt it. I could envision it working somehow that I am unaware of.

For whatever reason or another, he may regularly encounter sheetrock /taping where it works for him to not backroll.

It seems the issue is whether it is prepped properly.

For me personally, I find backrolling to be easier than cleaning/sanding the walls.

The dust just rolls right in, I don't have to worry that I missed anything, it also ensures even penetration with different porosities of sheetrock/tape mud from areas to area, and job to job.

I am also in the habit of doing it because backrolling will lay down any scuffed paper from sanding, but that is a hold over from yerster-year.

Now there is often no scuffed paper from the tapers sanding that will make those fibers pop out. 

But if there is I would much rather backroll them to get them to lay down, rather than pole sand all the walls to do so.

I also find backrolling to be easier than pole sanding.

You skip the cleaning process, and the sanding the primer process by back rolling.

Least wise the sanding process goes really fast and much easier because there is basically nothing sticking out after backrolling, so just a quick swipe to make sure will do it.

If you do have to sand out some balled up sheetrock dust, or hairs that popped from the tapers scuffing the paper, you have to put a little work into that.

I just find backrolling to be easier.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

straight_lines said:


> You still keep arguing that you *have* to back roll primer when you don't. If the wall is pointed up properly, and the dust is removed (ie Proper surface prep that any painter should know) then the two finish coats being back rolled will even out any texture difference, and produce a high quality finish.


Straight, you are beating yourself to death on this. 

Drywallers are paid to do a level 4 finish. Then you get it. 

To think, or insist that they prep the wall for you is an exercise in futility.

When I do just drywall, I do not mop the walls. When I do drywall AND paint, I mop the walls and vac and all that stuff, AS the first step in prepping the wall for paint.

You can argue who should do what from now till the cows come home. However, your drywallers could really give a rats arse about the dust.

THe truth will stand when the worlds on fire my friend.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Drywallers should clean up their own dust though (and mud out of tubs and showers, and mud off windows, and mud off thresholds, and mud off entry doors,.........) Oh, and while we are at it, carpenters should clean up their sawdust and tile guys should not get dust and grout on our work either. Shoot, unless they at least broom the dust down, how can they do a final once over of the seems to make sure they did not miss anything?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Drywallers should clean up their own dust though (and mud out of tubs and showers, and mud off windows, and mud off thresholds, and mud off entry doors,.........) Oh, and while we are at it, carpenters should clean up their sawdust and tile guys should not get dust and grout on our work either. Shoot, unless they at least broom the dust down, how can they do a final once over of the seems to make sure they did not miss anything?


I know this is dangerous, but I'll take a stab at it. When I sand drywall I don't have to dust it to tell if I have any places that need touch-up. I know full well the painter WANTS me to prep his wall for him, but since he (me if I paint) is getting twice the price for 1/2 the work, I am not ever gonna prep his job for him. On another note, how come the painter doesn't come in and prep the drywall job for me????

Oh gee, do painters mark the studs in the kitchen for the cabinet guys???
Do you mark the studs in the stairwell for the handrail guys to find???
Do you,,,, well nevermind,,,,, its all the drywallers fault in the end isn't it???


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Well, cleaning up after YOURSELF is part of the job. Usually the last step of the job. And drywallers blame the framers, frames blame the concrete foundation work, and they probably blame the excavators. And they all say the painters will fix it.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

DeanV said:


> Well, cleaning up after YOURSELF is part of the job. Usually the last step of the job. And drywallers blame the framers, frames blame the concrete foundation work, and they probably blame the excavators. And they all say the painters will fix it.


and the excavators blame the soil composition!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Feb 10, 2008)

DeanV said:


> Well, cleaning up after YOURSELF is part of the job. Usually the last step of the job. And drywallers blame the framers, frames blame the concrete foundation work, and they probably blame the excavators. And they all say the painters will fix it.


I agree with your post. The point I was trying to make is that the drywallers do clean up after themselves, according to their specs. They scrap the floors, clean the mud out of the boxes (chunks, not dust) sweep and pick up their trash. Where this stuff goes sideways, is the NEXT level, which is prepping it for paint.

Its a never-ending story, some painters feel like the drywallers should go the extra mile (at their own exspense) just to make things easier on the painter. To expect this to happen is to be continually disappointed.

Things are the way they are


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## InsideandOut (Jan 3, 2011)

*But the painters get the glory!*



DeanV said:


> Well, cleaning up after YOURSELF is part of the job. Usually the last step of the job. And drywallers blame the framers, frames blame the concrete foundation work, and they probably blame the excavators. And they all say the painters will fix it.


Yes the painters will fix it but when the HO looks at the finished product they don't say what a great job the excavators, concrete formers, framers, drywallers and trimmers did - they say what a great job the painters did :notworthy:because that is all they see - and other than the money, that's what I do the job for - HO satisfaction!:thumbup:
Tim


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## CRS (Apr 13, 2013)

*smooth wall*

Always backroll smooth and orange peel textured wall.You can get away with wholely smooth textured walls without backrolling. Every job is different. Type of primer vs the job is most important.


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## PremierPaintingMa (Nov 30, 2014)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I know this is dangerous, but I'll take a stab at it. When I sand drywall I don't have to dust it to tell if I have any places that need touch-up. I know full well the painter WANTS me to prep his wall for him, but since he (me if I paint) is getting twice the price for 1/2 the work, I am not ever gonna prep his job for him. On another note, how come the painter doesn't come in and prep the drywall job for me????
> 
> Oh gee, do painters mark the studs in the kitchen for the cabinet guys???
> Do you mark the studs in the stairwell for the handrail guys to find???
> Do you,,,, well nevermind,,,,, its all the drywallers fault in the end isn't it???


Yep :whistling2:


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## luny2nz (Nov 14, 2008)

8-25-10
1-4-11


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