# Low Prep Staining



## nkpaintingvt (Dec 1, 2015)

I have a question that may not have a great answer, but I'll try anyways.

I recently finished some clear soft wood replacement windows for a client. I sanded them down to perfection, stained with gel stain, and poly'd. They look fantastic. 

Unfortunately, clear pine trim was installed around the windows before I got to prefinish it. Colonial moulding, sills, etc, which would be a bear to properly sand down considering all the corners, 90 degree spots, etc. Doable, but if I can avoid it I will.

I'm wondering if there are any products out there that could get me close to the look of the windows without all of the sanding. I know there's Polyshades, but I'm not a fan of that stuff. Is it even possible to get a decent look on stain grade trim without taking off the factory glaze?

Thanks!

Noah


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

nkpaintingvt said:


> I have a question that may not have a great answer, but I'll try anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm confused. Is this just bare wood? I wouldn't think you have to sand it very heavy. Just stain and clear coat. ?Maybe I'm not understanding question,..

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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

I’m assuming you’re referring to mill glaze/burnishing from molder knives...try water popping. It should raise/open the grain allowing for better and more even absorption. Try a sample on a scrap trim piece first.


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## nkpaintingvt (Dec 1, 2015)

In my experience, there's a big difference between staining well sanded wood and staining wood with the factory sheen still intact. Stain can penetrate more evenly and splotching is generally reduced. 

Going right over the mill glaze hasn't looked good when I've done it in the past, but I'm curious if there's a method that works for others.


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

A tip when water popping:
Always work from bottom to top, avoiding drips/puddles on horizontal surfaces. You can give it a quick wipe with a terry/microfiber towel after brushing it on. You don’t want water to pool or accumulate at endgrains.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

nkpaintingvt said:


> In my experience, there's a big difference between staining well sanded wood and staining wood with the factory sheen still intact. Stain can penetrate more evenly and splotching is generally reduced.
> 
> 
> 
> Going right over the mill glaze hasn't looked good when I've done it in the past, but I'm curious if there's a method that works for others.


Ok. Got ya. Well atleast if you didn't sand all of them, it would be consistently blotchy..?lol

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## nkpaintingvt (Dec 1, 2015)

Alchemy Redux said:


> A tip when water popping:
> Always work from bottom to top, avoiding drips/puddles on horizontal surfaces. You can give it a quick wipe with a terry/microfiber towel after brushing it on. You don’t want water to pool or accumulate at endgrains.


I'll give that a try on scrap - that would be a dream if it worked well enough. Thanks!


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I have used gray 3M scuff pads and a little mineral spirits to prep pine prior to oil staining. Works good in the detail. Dont over work it or it will fuzz up to much. I have never water popped white pine but that might work like Alchemy suggested. I don't like Polyshades. Sealcoat shellac sanding sealer will control the blotching better on pine than anything I have used.


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