# Chair refinishing



## finishesbykevyn

Have not got into alot of furniture restoration jobs. Client is just letting me do 1 or 2 chairs at a time. 
First one will be a tester as I have absolutely no idea how long this will take and what to charge her. 
Its really nice mahony from Gibbard. 
How would you tackle this..?
It will be restained and clear coated.
Not sure why pics are sideways.


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## cocomonkeynuts

Chemical strip, sand to 120-150. Benite. Stain with lenmar alkyd wiping. Top coat with lenmar precat dull rubbed or satin. 2-3 days per chair. You can speed things up by skipping Benite or using something faster drying.


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## Lightningboy65

My approach has always been as follows: 1. look customer in eyes 2. Tell them "I don't refinish furniture".

The few pieces I've done over the years for myself have taken so long, I couldn't imagine ever being able to turn a profit at it. I know there are guys that can and do, but I never cared to figure it out. Good luck.


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## Brushman4

finishesbykevyn said:


> Have not got into alot of furniture restoration jobs. Client is just letting me do 1 or 2 chairs at a time.
> First one will be a tester as I have absolutely no idea how long this will take and what to charge her.
> Its really nice mahony from Gibbard.
> How would you tackle this..?
> It will be restained and clear coated.
> Not sure why pics are sideways.


Who's Gibbard?


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## Lightningboy65

Brushman4 said:


> Who's Gibbard?


He's the guy that figured out you could use the turkey organs to enhance gravy...hence giblets!:glasses:


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## Brushman4

Lightningboy65 said:


> He's the guy that figured out you could use the turkey organs to enhance gravy...hence giblets!:glasses:


Oh, that dude! I thought it might be the guy who played for the NY Giants that was on Monday Night Football for many years?


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## Lightningboy65

Brushman4 said:


> Oh, that dude! I thought it might be the guy who played for the NY Giants that was on Monday Night Football for many years?


Oh, you could be right...

Kathy Lee Gibbard's husband.


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## Redux

Lightningboy65 said:


> Oh, you could be right...
> 
> Kathy Lee Gibbard's husband.


And I was certain the chairs were Kareem Abdul’s Gibbards..


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## finishesbykevyn

What's benite? And Is that precat lacquer? 



cocomonkeynuts said:


> Chemical strip, sand to 120-150. Benite. Stain with lenmar alkyd wiping. Top coat with lenmar precat dull rubbed or satin. 2-3 days per chair. You can speed things up by skipping Benite or using something faster drying.


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## finishesbykevyn

I thought he made baby food.. Oh that Gerber.



Brushman4 said:


> finishesbykevyn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have not got into alot of furniture restoration jobs. Client is just letting me do 1 or 2 chairs at a time.
> First one will be a tester as I have absolutely no idea how long this will take and what to charge her.
> Its really nice mahony from Gibbard.
> How would you tackle this..?
> It will be restained and clear coated.
> Not sure why pics are sideways.
> 
> 
> 
> Who's Gibbard?
Click to expand...




Lightningboy65 said:


> Brushman4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Who's Gibbard?
> 
> 
> 
> He's the guy that figured out you could use the turkey organs to enhance gravy...hence giblets!
Click to expand...


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## finishesbykevyn

Lol. That usually is my response. She basically gave me a blank cheque for this though..


Lightningboy65 said:


> My approach has always been as follows: 1. look customer in eyes 2. Tell them "I don't refinish furniture".
> 
> The few pieces I've done over the years for myself have taken so long, I couldn't imagine ever being able to turn a profit at it. I know there are guys that can and do, but I never cared to figure it out. Good luck.


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## cocomonkeynuts

finishesbykevyn said:


> What's benite? And Is that precat lacquer?



Benite is a penetrating prestain wood conditioner, it seals out moisture and hardens up a bit in the wood cells. It adds a amber hue. Can be painted or stained over or left alone as its own finish. Very popular product in the PNW.


https://www.dalyswoodfinishes.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

Yes the lenmar is a precat lacquer, great product.


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## finishesbykevyn

Thanks Coco. Always appreciate your product knowledge. I imagine spraying the lacquer in my hvlp would be the way to go. Just hate working with lacquers.
Only 1 chair at a time mind you.. What would be your 2nd choice in something not so toxic. Or is that product water reducing?


cocomonkeynuts said:


> finishesbykevyn said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's benite? And Is that precat lacquer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benite is a penetrating prestain wood conditioner, it seals out moisture and hardens up a bit in the wood cells. It adds a amber hue. Can be painted or stained over or left alone as its own finish. Very popular product in the PNW.
> 
> 
> https://www.dalyswoodfinishes.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1
> 
> Yes the lenmar is a precat lacquer, great product.
Click to expand...


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## Gracobucks

A solvent based lacquer is the way to go. It dries in 5-10 mins. and will have a nice smooth finish. You should be able to complete a chair in a day, maybe a day and a half.


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## cocomonkeynuts

finishesbykevyn said:


> Thanks Coco. Always appreciate your product knowledge. I imagine spraying the lacquer in my hvlp would be the way to go. Just hate working with lacquers.
> Only 1 chair at a time mind you.. What would be your 2nd choice in something not so toxic. Or is that product water reducing?



The waterborne lacquers are good too. Need to give the stain more time before coating though. 



Yes the lenmar precat is ready to spray out of the can with HVLP, just give it a good stir. The solvent lacquers are just good faster turn around. As in you can stain with that lenmar alkyd wiping and get 3 coats precat lacquer in a day. Waterborne products would add an additional day at least.


Lenmar alkyd and lacquer stains can also be thinned with lacquer thinner and sprayed with hvlp.


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## finishesbykevyn

I think I found a matching stain in the oil based Minwax. (Had in the Shop). Can I put a solvent lacquer over that? Or would the Minwax oil poly be a better system? Or is Minwax just Crap all together? Its just so readily available around here..Also Wondering if spraying is best option, or if a wiping poly would be better for a chair..I feel like there would be so much room for drips and error on a chair with all the angles...


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## Redux

finishesbykevyn said:


> I think I found a matching stain in the oil based Minwax. (Had in the Shop). Can I put a solvent lacquer over that? Or would the Minwax oil poly be a better system? Or is Minwax just Crap all together? Its just so readily available around here..Also Wondering if spraying is best option, or if a wiping poly would be better for a chair..I feel like there would be so much room for drips and error on a chair with all the angles...


If you have a Minwax color that matches I would skip the Minwax stain and use Duraseal QuickCoat instead, Minwax owning Duraseal, the colors being the same. I use the QuickCoat for floors. Minwax stains are notorious for having poor bonding characteristics with clear finishes and are designed more for HOs and DIYers, Duraseal being more of a professional product. Duraseal QuickCoat contains a resin which serves as a sealer and drier, deeply penetrating the wood, providing a richer and more vibrant look. It can be top coated with an oil PU such as Lenmar, PoloPlaz, or others. It can also be top coated with just about any WB PU, and can even be top coated with itself in the QuickCoat clear as a wipe on finish. Most any hardwood flooring supplier sells it.

https://www.duraseal.com/products/stains/quick-coat/


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## finishesbykevyn

Ended up finding a stain match in the old masters.. readily available at my local paint shop. So I also got a quart of the OM PU, see how it gos.. Just wondering whether I should spray the pu with my hvlp or just brush it..Was too much hassle to get my hands on any of the lacqers, and Im not used to using them..


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## cocomonkeynuts

finishesbykevyn said:


> Ended up finding a stain match in the old masters.. readily available at my local paint shop. So I also got a quart of the OM PU, see how it gos.. Just wondering whether I should spray the pu with my hvlp or just brush it..Was too much hassle to get my hands on any of the lacqers, and Im not used to using them..


I would spray that OM poly with the hvlp...

Good lacquer are much easier and faster to use than poly though...


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## finishesbykevyn

Good to know. Maybe I try lacquer on the next one. Let you know how it goes! 😂



cocomonkeynuts said:


> finishesbykevyn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up finding a stain match in the old masters.. readily available at my local paint shop. So I also got a quart of the OM PU, see how it gos.. Just wondering whether I should spray the pu with my hvlp or just brush it..Was too much hassle to get my hands on any of the lacqers, and Im not used to using them..
> 
> 
> 
> I would spray that OM poly with the hvlp...
> 
> Good lacquer are much easier and faster to use than poly though...
Click to expand...


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## cocomonkeynuts

finishesbykevyn said:


> Good to know. Maybe I try lacquer on the next one. Let you know how it goes! 😂



If you can find any, clear waterborne undercoater/sanding sealer is also a good thing to use under waterborne finishes. They dry quickly and sand to a powder. Lenmar, General Finishes, Gemeni and plenty of other manufacturers make one.


Good quality lacquers like the lenmar stuff are so easy to use, it just lays down for you with an hvlp no thinning required and recoat is way faster. Used with the lenmar quick stains for example you can stain, sanding sealer and 2-3 top coats in a day. Old masters stain + waterborne poly are a 2-3 day process.


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## finishesbykevyn

update. Old Masters Stain worked really well. The OM Poly was good too except a little tricky sprayed out of the hvlp. Put on 3 coats, sanding between coats. Problem I believe is all the dry spray coming from the hvlp and all the angle on a chair.
Seemed like an uphill battle not to get dry spray on other areas of the chair while trying to spray all angles. Wondering if brushing on the final coat would be an idea..It looked good, but felt a little rough..


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## jennifertemple

finishesbykevyn said:


> update. Old Masters Stain worked really well. The OM Poly was good too except a little tricky sprayed out of the hvlp. Put on 3 coats, sanding between coats. Problem I believe is all the dry spray coming from the hvlp and all the angle on a chair.
> Seemed like an uphill battle not to get dry spray on other areas of the chair while trying to spray all angles. Wondering if brushing on the final coat would be an idea..It looked good, but felt a little rough..


I always do "Wipe On" Poly for furniture, it is really easy to manage.


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## finishesbykevyn

Do I have to use actual "wiping Poly" for that, or could I just thin down my old masters and wipe it on. Not sure if I should switch products this late in the game..



jennifertemple said:


> I always do "Wipe On" Poly for furniture, it is really easy to manage.


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## jennifertemple

finishesbykevyn said:


> Do I have to use actual "wiping Poly" for that, or could I just thin down my old masters and wipe it on. Not sure if I should switch products this late in the game..


I have heard that wipe on is just thin poly and any one of them can be thinned down for a wipe on application. I would thin it incrementally and try it on a scrap until it seems the right level of viscosity.


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## Holland

Post some pics when you're done.

I prefer slow drying stains, I think they enhance the grain a little more than the fast drying stains, and less likely to get blotchy.


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## finishesbykevyn

Heres a couple of the finished product. Turned out looking really nice and very close to the original. Just a little rough from the dry spray. Going to try maybe wiping on all or just final coat of clear on next ones.


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## Tprice2193

They look nice! I also wipe vs spray most of the time. Haven't tried Old Masters but Arm R Seal by General Finishes is an excellent wipe on poly. I have used Minwax wipe on poly and it is OK too. My favorite for old stuff is Waterlox its wipe, brush, spray. Instead of a urethane resin it has a phenolic resin. Doesnt yellow and is easier to repair. I would call it an "old school" finish. Very forgiving. I agree with wiping final coat after a light sand may get rid of the foggy look. That foggy look my be the flattener if you are using satin. I have used HVLP but you really have to turn it down. You can virtually eliminate overspray if you really turn air a material down and move in close.


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## finishesbykevyn

And yes, for reference about 11-12 hrs labour in total on the first chair. Not including all the messing around finding materials. Maybe a bit quicker on next ones. .


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## Holland

Tprice2193 said:


> They look nice! I also wipe vs spray most of the time. Haven't tried Old Masters but Arm R Seal by General Finishes is an excellent wipe on poly. I have used Minwax wipe on poly and it is OK too. My favorite for old stuff is Waterlox its wipe, brush, spray. Instead of a urethane resin it has a phenolic resin. Doesnt yellow and is easier to repair. I would call it an "old school" finish. Very forgiving. I agree with wiping final coat after a light sand may get rid of the foggy look. That foggy look my be the flattener if you are using satin. I have used HVLP but you really have to turn it down. You can virtually eliminate overspray if you really turn air a material down and move in close.


Arm-r-seal makes a great Urethane.
I use it as a wiping varnish...often, to touch-up around windows when the Lacquer fails. Urethane is pretty safe if you don't know what clear is underneath, and looks good with minimal effort.


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## Holland

finishesbykevyn said:


> And yes, for reference about 11-12 hrs labour in total on the first chair. Not including all the messing around finding materials. Maybe a bit quicker on next ones. .


If you have the time, it is worth it. looks good!


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## cocomonkeynuts

Tprice2193 said:


> They look nice! I also wipe vs spray most of the time. Haven't tried Old Masters but Arm R Seal by General Finishes is an excellent wipe on poly. I have used Minwax wipe on poly and it is OK too. My favorite for old stuff is Waterlox its wipe, brush, spray. Instead of a urethane resin it has a phenolic resin. Doesnt yellow and is easier to repair. I would call it an "old school" finish. Very forgiving. I agree with wiping final coat after a light sand may get rid of the foggy look. That foggy look my be the flattener if you are using satin. I have used HVLP but you really have to turn it down. You can virtually eliminate overspray if you really turn air a material down and move in close.


That's like Dalys teak oil. Has phenolic resin, Tung and oil modified urethane. We usually 'wet sand' old finishes with benite then a couple coats of Dalys teak oil.

Odies oil is also good easy to use finish.


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## Tprice2193

@finishesbykevyn I am afraid I have a few $50 peices with $1000 finishes. The other ones will go much faster. If you continue with HVLP no reason you couldn't hit them all saving a lot of cleaning. Wet sanding poly can really give you a nice finish but you have to apply enough finish to fill the grain.


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## finishesbykevyn

What's the benefit of wet sanding vs. dry sanding and what grit/type of paper are you using? Is this before the final coat?



Tprice2193 said:


> @finishesbykevyn I am afraid I have a few $50 peices with $1000 finishes. The other ones will go much faster. If you continue with HVLP no reason you couldn't hit them all saving a lot of cleaning. Wet sanding poly can really give you a nice finish but you have to apply enough finish to fill the grain.


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## jennifertemple

Holland said:


> Post some pics when you're done.
> 
> I prefer slow drying stains (like minwax and OM) for "nicer" woods. I think it enhances the grain a little more than the fast drying stains, and less likely to get blotchy.


 I stain prior to top coat with a deep penetrating stain and wipe off. I do not apply the finish coat for 2-3 days after that. I also do french polish, rubbed lacquer & rubbed urethane but as a rule, wipe on poly is a nice finish that won't cost the earth on labor, is reliable and clients find the price is right.

These are the last 2 items I did. The table was an ancient, gray, warped, water damaged wreck! Both being antiques I do no remove all evidence of age. 

View attachment 104961


View attachment 104963

OAK KRUG DESK CHAIR 1935


View attachment 104965

MISSION STYLE TABLE / NOT REPRO Date unknown


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## Brushman4

jennifertemple said:


> I stain prior to top coat with a deep penetrating stain and wipe off. I do not apply the finish coat for 2-3 days after that. I also do french polish, rubbed lacquer & rubbed urethane but as a rule, wipe on poly is a nice finish that won't cost the earth on labor, is reliable and clients find the price is right.
> 
> These are the last 2 items I did. The table was an ancient, gray, warped, water damaged wreck! Both being antiques I do no remove all evidence of age.
> 
> View attachment 104961
> 
> 
> View attachment 104963
> 
> OAK KRUG DESK CHAIR 1935
> 
> 
> View attachment 104965
> 
> MISSION STYLE TABLE / NOT REPRO Date unknown


Great looking work, Jennifer!


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## jennifertemple

Thank You, @Brushman4 I wish I had a before pic of that table, I got it for $5 because it looked beyond redemption. I have a before of the chair but it was not nearly so decrepit. I like to take what looks nonredeemable and surprise people. It generally only costs my labour and material to revive what might look like junk.


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## Redux

jennifertemple said:


> I stain prior to top coat with a deep penetrating stain and wipe off. I do not apply the finish coat for 2-3 days after that. I also do french polish, rubbed lacquer & rubbed urethane but as a rule, wipe on poly is a nice finish that won't cost the earth on labor, is reliable and clients find the price is right.
> 
> These are the last 2 items I did. The table was an ancient, gray, warped, water damaged wreck! Both being antiques I do no remove all evidence of age.
> 
> View attachment 104961
> 
> 
> View attachment 104963
> 
> OAK KRUG DESK CHAIR 1935
> 
> 
> View attachment 104965
> 
> MISSION STYLE TABLE / NOT REPRO Date unknown


Nice work!

I love the figure/rays on the mission table. Have you ever played around with fuming? Have done a bit of it. It really pops the rays beautifully. Also have done a bunch of mission/arts & crafts pieces achieving period color utilizing potassium dichromate aka bichromate of potash in conjunction with copperas.. the formulation being a Greene & Greene signature utilized during the arts & crafts movement, PD being dangerous stuff. Wiping finishes are the way to go with mission style..I love the minimalist look and silky feel of wiping finishes..


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## Tprice2193

@finishesbykevyn I do wet sanding by hand with progressively higher grits. You can wet or dry sand sand between coats. After you have enough finish on you wet sand. Water is a lubricant , keeps your sandpaper clean, provides a smoother sand, and holds dust down. You will get a slurry of water and finish that you can wipe up. Start with 400 and move up to 600, 800, 1000 depending on final sheen you want. I use Mequires #2 (automotive finish product) to remove fine marks in finish. Can buff it out gloss or leave it satin. When wet sanding flat surfaces I use a sanding block. It will cut fast so you have to be careful and not sand through finish. There are some old school abrasives such as rottenstone but I have not tried them. I haven't tried with poly but with waterlox you can wet sand with the finish making a slurry of wood and finish. This will work into the pores and act as a filler. Useful on walnut, mahogany, oak, any wood with large pores. I don't think it would work well with poly.


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## jennifertemple

@*Tprice2193* Just an FYI: Pumice and rottenstone are mainly used for the final polishing stages of a rubbed finish. Rottenstone is used with something like mineral oil to rub up the gloss, once all the oil has been washed off you can also do a waxed finishing polish. I have done a lot of that kind of thing. It is an expensive finish because it is very labor intensive. The average HO would not be willing to pay that kind of labor. (it is absolutely the nicest of finishes, though!) I doubt @*finishesbykevyn* could invest the kind of time required to do all the levels of wet sanding and stone rubbing you are suggesting. Great care must be taken, but yes, the process will work on poly JUST DON'T BREAK THROUGH ANY OF THE POLY LAYERS AT ANY POINT IN THE SANDING PROCESSES!!! or you will need to remove it all and start over.


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## jennifertemple

@Alchemy Redux, I have not tied fuming, It does not seem complicated but it does seem a little dangerous. I have no place I would dare set up the process!


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## Brushman4

finishesbykevyn said:


> And yes, for reference about 11-12 hrs labour in total on the first chair. Not including all the messing around finding materials. Maybe a bit quicker on next ones. .


The chair looks great but if you're trying to make a living out of this, what are you going to charge per hour? I'm retired now but if and that's a big if, I wouldn't touch doing it for less than $40 an hour plus material. So that comes out to $480 a chair plus material.
To do 6 or 8 chairs, not to mention a dining room table with 2 or 3 leaves, you are talking big, big bucks! Will the market you're in bear it?


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## finishesbykevyn

You absolutely right Brushman. I ended up charging $450 plus material for the first chair. Honestly should have been more. I like to get atleast $45/hr for shop work. 
I wouldn't expect to make a living from this thats for sure, but always open to a challenge and these types of jobs come up from time to time as there are lots of people with cash to blow in my market., 
I'm doing alot of kitchen cabinet jobs , so it's usally these clients that are like "hey while your here"...



Brushman4 said:


> The chair looks great but if you're trying to make a living out of this, what are you going to charge per hour? I'm retired now but if and that's a big if, I wouldn't touch doing it for less than $40 an hour plus material. So that comes out to $480 a chair plus material.
> To do 6 or 8 chairs, not to mention a dining room table with 2 or 3 leaves, you are talking big, big bucks! Will the market you're in bear it?


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## jennifertemple

Brushman4 said:


> The chair looks great but if you're trying to make a living out of this, what are you going to charge per hour? I'm retired now but if and that's a big if, I wouldn't touch doing it for less than $40 an hour plus material. So that comes out to $480 a chair plus material.
> To do 6 or 8 chairs, not to mention a dining room table with 2 or 3 leaves, you are talking big, big bucks! Will the market you're in bear it?


I charge $275-$375 for a chair but I've been doing furniture a long time and have my methods, pretty much, optimized. The money is still better for painting BUT in winter it's a good side line to keep income up.


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## Tprice2193

@jennifertemple I figured you or @Alchemy Redux would bring up pumice and rottenstone. Truly is old school. I have used it on gun stocks. Nothing like that depth and feel. You are right about the time. I only wet sand and "rub out" when I have lots of time on my hands and it is something I want to really look good. I haven't tried the fuming or the french polish. 

Wet sanding with finish as the lubricant is a technique I use to fill grain. I have used waterlox for this grain fill process but not poly. I don't know if poly would work but may be worth a try. 

Waterlox does not layer like poly. You do not have to scuff between coats. I guess that the coats "melt" together. It a little easier to work with when wet sanding and rubbing out regardless of what abrasives you use.


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## jennifertemple

Tprice2193 said:


> Wet sanding with finish as the lubricant is a technique I use to fill grain. I have used waterlox for this grain fill process but not poly. I don't know if poly would work but may be worth a try.
> 
> Waterlox does not layer like poly. You do not have to scuff between coats. I guess that the coats "melt" together. It a little easier to work with when wet sanding and rubbing out regardless of what abrasives you use.


Lacquer is also a great material for rubbing out because each application melds into the prior and it becomes all one so no risk of breaking through "layers". I've never used Waterlox. If they sell it here I may give it a try on some small piece to give it a look-see. When rubbing a finish I always try to have the surface as flat as glass and keep it that way through all steps in the process, so, no mater what the material, I grind every coat with higher and higher grits of wet sanding. If one wants a satin finish you can stop at well rubbed pumice, I only use rottenstone for a high gloss but it is the nicest gloss one can get onto a table top! I think the final waxing is just to protect all the previous work and provide a slight barrier that can be kept up with regular waxing and buffing.


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## finishesbykevyn

Are you saying that I can do a wet sand with 1000 grit as a final step?guess that would have been an option to get rid of the dry spray?



jennifertemple said:


> Lacquer is also a great material for rubbing out because each application melds into the prior and it becomes all one so no risk of breaking through "layers". I've never used Waterlox. If they sell it here I may give it a try on some small piece to give it a look-see. When rubbing a finish I always try to have the surface as flat as glass and keep it that way through all steps in the process, so, no mater what the material, I grind every coat with higher and higher grits of wet sanding. If one wants a satin finish you can stop at well rubbed pumice, I only use rottenstone for a high gloss but it is the nicest gloss one can get onto a table top! I think the final waxing is just to protect all the previous work and provide a slight barrier that can be kept up with regular waxing and buffing.


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## Tprice2193

@finishesbykevyn yes wet sanding with 1000/water would probably work. If you have any nibs you will have to use 600-800. Since you sprayed with hvlp those coats are pretty thin. So be careful! May have put some polish on it to bring up the luster. The reason I use Meguairs is thats what I had on hand and I also use it on my cabinets and car. 3M makes some wet abrasives of various cuts but they are pricey.


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## Tprice2193

@jennifertemple Waterlox will give you a less plastic look. It has a phenolic resin not polyurethane. Not that a poly finish is not beautiful. 15 yr ago I did some oak cabinets and did a side by side of waterlox and General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. I never did decide which I liked best. I ended up using Arm-R-Seal on that set because you can get a good hand rubbed looking finish with the Arm-R-Seal faster than with Waterlox. I think of Waterlox like a danish oil with a little build. Waterlox original is the product to try first. They have a low voc version but have not tried it. Lot of good videos out there on how to use it.


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## jennifertemple

finishesbykevyn said:


> Are you saying that I can do a wet sand with 1000 grit as a final step?guess that would have been an option to get rid of the dry spray?


For the job you are doing I would use 400 or 600 with a light water sanding as prep for the final application.One needs to work up to 1000 and in your case, not doing a full rubbed finish there is no need for super high grits.


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## jennifertemple

@Tprice2193 Can Waterlox be used as a wipe on application?


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## jennifertemple

@finishesbykevyn DON'T CHANGE PRODUCT ON THE SAME SET OF CHAIRS!!! You know what they say about "changing horses mid stream". If you started with poly keep going with poly. The last thing you want is a mismatch on the finished look. Lacquer, oils and Urethane all have a different look.


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## jennifertemple

@Tprice2193 I just looked into Waterlox, it is basically a Danish oil type finish or they do have a Urethane. I love the look of the oil finishes but for dining tables & chairs I don't think they stand the wear as well. I tend to Urethane on anything that people use regularly. Otherwise I would spend my life going back to fix water marks,heat rings, stains and what ever else they might subject a table to. I expect like the polyurethane, Waterlox Urethane would have distinct layering. In any case, Waterlox is not sold in Canada that I can find.


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## Tprice2193

@jennifertemple wiping is the preferred way to apply Waterlox. No need for thinning any further. The waterlox original can be sprayed or brushed as well. Waterlox, though not as hard as poly, is tough. I have used it on floors and tables and since it dont layer or yellow repairs are a lot easier. Takes 30 days to reach full hardness.


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## finishesbykevyn

Update: I finished 2 more of those chairs. This time I brushed on the OM Poly. Much smoother finish. A little tricky keeping it from dripping/ curtaining. Super easy to put on too thick.. I think a wiping poly would definitely be the way to go. 1 Coat of old Masters Red Mahogany Stain. 2 Coats Of OM PU brushed on. (No benite, sorry coco) Sanded with about 400 between coats..I probably could have put on a 3rd coat, but it looked so dang good with 2 coats I didn't bother..I may put a 3rd on the next ones if I have time. Much quicker this time too.
Gave her a deal this time at $425 per chair. Pretty sure I could do them for $350-$375 /each but didnt want to change my tune too drastically..Plus travel time picking up and dropping off, it's barely worth it anyhow..


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## jennifertemple

finishesbykevyn said:


> Update: I finished 2 more of those chairs. This time I brushed on the OM Poly. Much smoother finish. A little tricky keeping it from dripping/ curtaining. Super easy to put on too thick.. I think a wiping poly would definitely be the way to go. 1 Coat of old Masters Red Mahogany Stain. 2 Coats Of OM PU brushed on.


Looking Great!:smile:


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## cocomonkeynuts

dalys teak oil is similar to waterlox, high solids phenolic resin, tung and oil modified urethane.


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## ArnoldBerna

I wonder where do you get this old furniture, or is a new one? I think it is a great idea, to take an old chair or shelving unit, and upgrade it a little bit.


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