# Need Help with resurfacing a desk



## CaddiV (Jan 18, 2012)

Hello all, I know very little about painting wood although I have been painting autos and about every type of metal there is for over 10 years

Anyway I have a PC desk I want to refinish, at this moment I have no idea what the finish is on it and it looks like it has a huge amount of clear coat on it lol (it is a very cheaply built desk, which is why I'm adding and rebuilding most of it)

I'm planning on sanding entire surfaces with 100 Grit, Priming, and then unfortunately brushing on a latex semi gloss that I have that matches the rest of my furniture.

So basically what I need to know is 
Will 100 Grit do the job without causing me more problems?
Do I even need the primer (will use latex based)?
And I've been told both that I need to seal it and that I shouldn't seal it,
So should I seal/clear it, if so do I need to use something specific ?

Sorry about all the questions from a noob but I would greatly be in debt to anyone with opinions or answers, and feel free to ask anything anyone needs to know about automotive or metal work painting ([email protected]) 
Thanks So Much in advance !


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

CaddiV said:


> Hello all, I know very little about painting wood although I have been painting autos and about every type of metal there is for over 10 years
> 
> Anyway I have a PC desk I want to refinish, at this moment I have no idea what the finish is on it and it looks like it has a huge amount of clear coat on it lol (it is a very cheaply built desk, which is why I'm adding and rebuilding most of it)
> 
> ...


 I would clean surface 1st,scuff up finish with220grit and prime with a stainblocking bondcoat primer like Zinsser Fast prime for instance and 2 topcoats of enamel paint.A good primer is necessary not only for adhesion reasons but will give uniformity to your topcoat.A finish product is only as good as the base it covers.Happy Painting.


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## aaapaintingcolorado (Dec 17, 2011)

I agree with the above response. Scuff sand the furniture with a very heavy grit sandpaper (probably closer to 100). You don't need to remove all of the old clear coat, just scuff it. Removing it will be a nightmare and the primer you will be using will help with adhesion. Use an adhesion primer. Home depot sells Gripper, Sherwin williams sells adhesion primer. This type of primer will stick to any glossy surfaces, including glass and will help your paint stick. Finish with two coats of latex based paint. You can use a higher durability paint to reduce nicks and scratches over time(Trim Enamel) - Ben Moore sells Advance, and Impervo (oil based). Sherwin williams sells Pro Classic and Trim Enamel. I think Home depot has this new glidden paint for doors and trim. It is not necessary to use trim enamel, but will last longer and not need to be clear coated/sealed. If you use regular latex paint as a finish, you may want to add a clear latex sealer to strengthen the top coat. You would actually save time and money by just using a trim enamel and doing two coats.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

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