# sealer over oil stain



## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Have a bid for a previously oil stained house. Was going to restain the whole place but homeowner want's to just seal it. All overhead trim etc. is latex so I can't just cover the windows and spray linseed over it. Any sealers(waterproofers) out there that I can hit with a pump sprayer. SealKrete doesn't list wood siding as a candidate. I'd ask the guys at the SW store but they really have no knowlege. Thanks for any help. pd


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Is it a solid stain? Why do they want it sealed if it is?


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

it is a solid stain just looking a little dull and he wants to keep the preservative factors going. This job was looked late last fall and he just checked in with me. Guess like everywhere he wants to save some bucks and mentioned sealing instead of re-staining. Are you saying the presevative factors are still high grade after a few years or does it require a little new life from time to time. After 20 years in Florida I got away from most wood jobs and now find myself asking questions about new technology after such a long absence from certain materials. I'm now in South Carolina and have to deal with scraping, priming, staining etc.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

Assuming you mean the silica/hardeining sealers and not any type of urethane...

You cna let the customer know that those type will penetrate the wood and they are great for preventing future rot but they do not protect the wood against UV rays. Putting that stuff over an already stained exterior is a formula for disaster. You may end up locking in the finish which is going to keep degrading into a blotchy mess. The problems will arise when you or another contractor tries to fix the finish. The silica sealer may prevent any type of finish from bonding or penetrating. Its also going to be beyond the scope of the capabilities of most contractors and the budget of the homeowner.

This is just my opinion, but the way those sealers are sold (they are concrete sealers by the way) is misleading. They can make for a decent pre-primer on new construction or wood that has been stripped to bare but they still need a pigmented stain to make the wood stay looking good. 

Be careful.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

painterdude said:


> it is a solid stain just looking a little dull and he wants to keep the preservative factors going. This job was looked late last fall and he just checked in with me. Guess like everywhere he wants to save some bucks and mentioned sealing instead of re-staining. Are you saying the presevative factors are still high grade after a few years or does it require a little new life from time to time. After 20 years in Florida I got away from most wood jobs and now find myself asking questions about new technology after such a long absence from certain materials. I'm now in South Carolina and have to deal with scraping, priming, staining etc.


You posted this after I hit send. Nothing has changed all that dramatically. What the homeowner and you are thinking positively will not work. You start trying to seal a solid (with anything) and it will be a mess in a very short time.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

If he wants to freshen it up, use a good acrylic solid stain. The waterbornes hold their color much better than alkyds. Thats the route I would go. Plus, you can take care of any wood replacement needed, and fix any caulking issues.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

I was called by a customer who had this done to their house a couple years ago. Ken is right. The customer said it looked good after completion, but as soon as two weeks passed they started noticing the blotchiness, which progressively worsened over time. To be fair to the contractor who did it, the HO insisted on doing it this way. I read the contract and everything that the contractor said could possibly happen did. (Probably one of the best CYA contracts I ever read. You could tell he put a lot of research into it.) Myself? I would have passed on the job and did tell the HO that. Of course, it wasn't what they wanted to hear and did go into a little bit of a huff over it, but I just told them that as long as I was the owner of the company I would do nothing to put it in a questionable situation. BTW - I guess they gave up, house still looks the same.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

if I was going to restain it I'd probably stick with the same oil based product he had done several years ago. (can you put latex stain over oil??) He doesn't want to spend the money redoing the entire house, just the facia and soffit and doors along with the fence he had installed last summer(pt so I told him to let it season). So there's nothing I can pump spray as a "conditioner" /preservative? Thanks for all of your answers so far. pd


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

painterdude said:


> if I was going to restain it I'd probably stick with the same oil based product he had done several years ago. (can you put latex stain over oil??) He doesn't want to spend the money redoing the entire house, just the facia and soffit and doors along with the fence he had installed last summer(pt so I told him to let it season). So there's nothing I can pump spray as a "conditioner" /preservative? Thanks for all of your answers so far. pd


Yes, latex stain can be applied over oil stain. ( the ones I carry can ) 

So he just wants the trim and doors done, with the fence. Not a problem :thumbsup:


If he really wants to seal that PT fence, this stuff is awesome....dust off your wallet though 

http://www.creto.net/products/cretowood.php


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## Wood511 (Dec 13, 2010)

Roughly how much is cretowood?

I haven't gone the extra step of SEALING decks since I've been using TWP. We clean/wash them, then apply TWP (1500 these days). I've heard that you can certainly use something like cretowood along with TWP, but what are the advantages/differences in durability and color retention?

We advise a maintenance coat of TWP every year or two - depending on traffic and weathering - then we'll strip and start over when we get some buildup .


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Too bad they dont sell it in 1 gallon cans. Close to 2 bills for a 5 of Cretowood around here.


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## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

I used to sell a good amount of Cretowood at Restore-A-Deck and have experience using it. You have to be careful how much you apply if you are going to put on a penetrating sealer like TWP. TWP is a sealer, nothing else really needed but a light wash and maintenance coat on the horizontals every couple years.


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