# Self prime solid stain



## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

Anyone ever have it bleed after applying it to redwood? I only ask cuz redwood can be stubborn stuff.....The waterbourne stuff is what I'm asking ab out.


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## Delta Painting (Apr 27, 2010)

Once had a whole house do it manny years ago now I test first....It's the tannins in the wood bleeding through...


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## alertchief (Nov 12, 2009)

I have used a few of the solids and been unhappy mostly! I tend to notice way more than a homeowner but I almost always see some darkening or blooming when applied direct to cedar or redwood! I always tell my clients install the stuff in April and lets coat it in late August or September to allow for the sun to pull some of the tannin out! Now I have gone to using sikkens Rubbol which is a alkyd and water hybrid! I have been more satisfied with its end results. Recoat time is 24 hours so keep that on mind!


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Cedar and Redwood will bleed. Dont trust the WB products as of yet. Prime first with alkyd...Fresh Start Alkyd 024 is my go to on those. Topcoat with whatever you like.


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## painterman (Jun 2, 2007)

Prime with XIM UMA with bleed control added. This will lock out any tannin bleed and it is a waterbourn product.


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

thanks for all the input. it comes down to what HO wants to spend....

I'm looking to try the BM Arborcoat 640.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I've only used oilbased stain on redwood. I havn't had to worry.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

If it's a light color it is a little risky. A darker color is many times more forgiving. If it is light and you are not going to prime the Sikkens, as alertchief mentioned, might be a better choice.


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

CliffK said:


> If it's a light color it is a little risky. A darker color is many times more forgiving. If it is light and you are not going to prime the Sikkens, as alertchief mentioned, might be a better choice.


 Ya, it's a dark color. they want it the way it looks now, but protected. its old natural redwood thats weathered and grey. some new battons. and old redwood ply.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Why ruin nice wood with a solid? Strip, brighten, and use a semi-transparent. 

If its older wood the 640 might be ok without primer. Using a dark color will help.


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

NCPaint1 said:


> Why ruin nice wood with a solid? Strip, brighten, and use a semi-transparent.
> 
> If its older wood the 640 might be ok without primer. Using a dark color will help.


That parts not up to me. I just give them what they want.


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## Damon T (Nov 22, 2008)

I've had good success with the flood swf solid stain. It is water cleanup, but has alkyd resins in it. Quite a bit of alkyd resin really. You really notice when trying to clean your brushes. I've only used their cedar color, as someone else mentioned you could have bleeding with the light colors. I've had mixed results with SW Woodxcapes. Had some minor bleed with new cedar.


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## Scotiadawg (Dec 5, 2011)

right? or right now? said:


> Ya, it's a dark color. they want it the way it looks now, but protected. its old natural redwood thats weathered and grey. some new battons. and old redwood ply.


I use a product called Lifetime, powder that's mixed in water.:thumbsup: It keeps the old weathered look but seems to wear well.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

Damon T said:


> I've had good success with the flood swf solid stain. It is water cleanup, but has alkyd resins in it. Quite a bit of alkyd resin really. You really notice when trying to clean your brushes. I've only used their cedar color, as someone else mentioned you could have bleeding with the light colors. I've had mixed results with SW Woodxcapes. Had some minor bleed with new cedar.


 I sort of stumbled across the Flood a while back. I was very unimpressed with the way it worked compared to other solid stains I had more experience with, but I was very impressed with it's performance. I agree it has a lot of alkyd resins in it. The color we used was a dark green and you had to wash everything with thinner. It was really more like an oil than a waterborne. I think it is a good product though from a performance standpoint.


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

BM Arborcoat 640 is 70% alkyd resins.


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## CliffK (Dec 21, 2010)

right? or right now? said:


> BM Arborcoat 640 is 70% alkyd resins.


 I wasn't aware of that.....where's NACE?????


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

CliffK said:


> I wasn't aware of that.....where's NACE?????


There are five products that originally fell under the Arborcoat umbrella. The trasparent, semi transparent were 60% alkyd (water reducible) and the semi solid, solid, and clear coat are 100% acrylic. The 640 is self priming due to the smaller particle size that takes advantage of the urethane based WB colorant. This allows the film to penetrate and adhere like an alkyd but it is not an alkyd. The Flood Solid has an alkyd resin in it with EB Bond (?) and is also a great product.


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## right? or right now? (Dec 15, 2011)

NACE said:


> There are five products that originally fell under the Arborcoat umbrella. The trasparent, semi transparent were 60% alkyd (water reducible) and the semi solid, solid, and clear coat are 100% acrylic. The 640 is self priming due to the smaller particle size that takes advantage of the urethane based WB colorant. This allows the film to penetrate and adhere like an alkyd but it is not an alkyd. The Flood Solid has an alkyd resin in it with EB Bond (?) and is also a great product.


 So then I was misinformed? Will 2 coats stop the redwoods from tannin bleed?


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

The Arborcoat Solid may temporarily block tannins with two coat because the film is tighter however too many factors effect tannin bleed that are not the coatings responsibility. Oil prime is most popular but some here do not agree. We use to use 168 Weatherproof Aluminium to block tannin. I believe a long oil primer is best for blocking tannin. Re-priming pre-primed lumber is necessary or consider priming it in the field to insure proper primer is used, the wood is dry, and the proper mils are applied.


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## A+HomeWork (Dec 10, 2010)

NCPaint1 said:


> Cedar and Redwood will bleed. Dont trust the WB products as of yet. Prime first with alkyd...Fresh Start Alkyd 024 is my go to on those. Topcoat with whatever you like.


If I use this primer, can I use regular ext latex satin to topcoat?

I am building an additional dormer to my own house and plan to get redwood siding to match the dimension of the old original siding. I built a porch and it will have siding on its sides too. Plan to go with a green-grey since every house on the block is white!!

I only have SW or Lowes in my town and I really like Duration. 

I plan to strip the whole house to get the siding smooth again.


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