# Laying a Perfect Bead of Caulk



## bergs4 (Feb 5, 2010)

I'm new to the forum and would like to draw on the expertise of the painters here. I have done a fair amount of caulking, almost exclusively interior trim work, and never seem to get a result that I'm pleased with. I do the 45 degree cut to the tube, with a hole smaller than the gap I'm trying to fill, and tool the bead with my finger using the appropriate solvent (water / mineral spirits for poly). There are two main problems I have --

1) the caulk line never seems to come out perfectly or close to perfectly smooth (it's more lumpy than I'd like); and

2) I can never get a perfect or close to perfect 90 degree angle between trim and the wall (the caulk either shrinks too much or I put on too much caulk leaving a rounded surface between the caulk in the wall).

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

For me the best way to get a smooth bead is to keep a wet tile sponge in one hand to keep my hands clean. If you wet your finger a little bit before you swipe the excess off it will leave the bead smooth.On hot days it is even more important to keep you finger wet. Also remember to only do a 5 to 6 feet at a time. Apply and wipe and keep moving. If I'am painting white, I will apply white primer first so it will show up all the areas that need caulking.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Make sure to keep your rag nice and wet, this should eliminate your problem. If problem continues after this try some different caulk.


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## bergs4 (Feb 5, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. 

I will try the sponge and wet rag techniques. 

Also, I'm wondering if I'm making things worse by using crappy caulk. Usually I use some variety of Alex water based. Based on some of the threads I read here, their reputation isn't that great. If this is true, is there another brand to recommend?


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## andruszko1 (Nov 2, 2009)

*Caulking*

A great caulk line is one that you do not need to touch. However, if that were the case we would not have to seal the caulk line with our index finger nor would we ever have to look at a zig zagging line of caulking. Andruszko Painting says you need to have precision and keep your eye on the bead as you start your caulk line keep constant pressure on your trigger and follow through on your caulk line; try not to stop (if possible) 1/2 way or 3/4's of the way down your A-Z Caulk Line. Keep one wet rag handy and one dry rag handy. If your caulking gun gets caught on a larger piece of texture, nail, or what ever gently release the trigger and recoup your caulking composure. Always remember to slide your finger over the caulk line in the same direction, vertically or horizontally, do not use your finger in opposite directions on the same caulk line otherwise you will have an imperfect run/uneven flow of caulking.


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## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

I still have the problem with the angle between the wall and trim sometimes. For me, this hinders my cut line sometimes, and slows things down.


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## bergs4 (Feb 5, 2010)

I have definitely been starting and stopping half way through caulking a joint and usually have a bad outcome (uneven caulk flow, caulk build up etc.). That tip is good to know.

Any tips about trim/wall angle and if the brand of caulk will make a difference?


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Wet rag=soft finger=blisters if you caulk all day, so that is a no no for me. On trim would be the only exception, and then you really don't need it if you are good with the gun. I would suggest getting a nice no drip gun, and cut an angled opening to fit the job.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

*wet rag?*

That's a great idea. I've been putting my finger in my mouth for 35 years. Well, not on sonotone or any other poly based stuff. Maybe one of those cool caulking tools that they sell next to the register at SW, or on TV.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

caulking tools are worthless. Not nearly as detailed in smoothing the bead as your finger.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

The first rule of thumb for a good caulk line is to find better craftspeople ahead of you who can install sheet rock, trim, and cabs that don't leave a 1/2 inch gap !!!

"A little caulk, a little paint, make the carpenter what he ain't"

But if it is a nominal 1/16 " gap, I find that consistancy of delivery, opening of nozzle, and angle of application is what matters the most. IOW, practice.

For wallpaper, we do not want a rounded corner that was fingered, we would like a good sharp 90 degrees. Tools can work to make the final dressing. I always used a putty knife wetted. But that tool is used, as said, for final dressing, and the angle of the drag is important. 

But seriously, who hasn't been tempted by:


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## xr4ticrew (Nov 24, 2007)

painterdude said:


> That's a great idea. I've been putting my finger in my mouth for 35 years. Well, not on sonotone or any other poly based stuff. Maybe one of those cool caulking tools that they sell next to the register at SW, or on TV.


Seriously? Dude, you must've eaten a lot of caulk in 35 years...Dude...

And that's caulk with a capital L!!!! hahaha

On a side note,

Whenever talking to female customers, do you make sure you over-pronounce the L in caulk? Just to prevent misunderstandings over sticking caulk in all her cracks?

I know I do...


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## Woody (Jan 7, 2010)

Water is "your friend" ...when caulking.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

No drip caulk gun/SW 9500 caulk/a good angled cut on your tube to match the gap you are filling/you have to keep your gun angled the same "consistant" from top to bottom/consistant pressure on your trigger and alot of practice! You'll know your good when you can lay a bead down between door frames & countertops up against vinyl without having to finger!!


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

my mistake, I've just logged on to the DIY forum by mistake.

Bye

:surrender:

:sweatdrop:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

mistcoat said:


> my mistake, I've just logged on to the DIY forum by mistake.
> 
> Bye
> 
> ...


I was wondering if I should even take this seriously or not,but after reading the other posts I thought wow!, I never thought about caulking that much before....Damn I must be really good at this Sh*t!!!


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Keep a wet rag, a clean cut can filled 1/2 full with water to keep your rag clean, some q-tips for tight corners and a 9 in 1 for sharp angles. 

I use alex plus all the time and never have any problems....


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

aaron61 said:


> I was wondering if I should even take this seriously or not,but after reading the other posts I thought wow!, I never thought about caulking that much before....Damn I must be really good at this Sh*t!!!


Is it really that hard to do?

I agree with what you say -


aaron61 said:


> You'll know your good when you can lay a bead down between door frames & countertops up against vinyl without having to finger!!''


The word practice popped up and that is only thing to do to get better.
It's a bit like wallpaper,,, don't fanny around at it, just do it. :thumbsup:


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Let me give you the process. Cut the tube(not that good at math and don't carry a protractor to be sure it's a 45). Lay continuous bead if possible trying not to overdo amt. of caulk. Put finger in mouth. Run univeral lubricant over caulk using index finger. Wipe hand on pants....I always get a kick out of painters coming into the paint store with clean pants and shirts...must work by the hour. Repeat. I don't eat much caulk, but used to wash up with mineral spirits a lot in the 70's and 80's. Yes you can use soapy sponge or towel, but i'd guess it'd slow you down a tad. Hit 60 the other day and other than glowing in the dark, my Dr. says I'm in pretty good shape...for the shape I'm in.


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## painterdude (Jun 18, 2008)

Dean V. I was only kidding about the caulking tools. I don't use a pad with wheels either.


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## Bighead (Nov 28, 2008)

Don't caulk trim without priming first, it sucks the moisture out of the caulk Prime, sand then caulk. It's much easier to apply and the gaps are more visible. For tight spots use a small wet artist brush. This works well around hinges and in between pieces of trim. I learned on thousands of feet of new construction. Rubbing my caulk in cracks all day usually lead to bloody caulk fingers.


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Where is Tim when you need him. That guy loves caulk. (sp?)


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Bighead said:


> Don't caulk trim without priming first, it sucks the moisture out of the caulk * Prime, sand then caulk.* It's much easier to apply and the gaps are more visible. For tight spots use a small wet artist brush. This works well around hinges and in between pieces of trim. I learned on thousands of feet of new construction. Rubbing my caulk in cracks all day usually lead to bloody caulk fingers.


Never done it that way myself, but you do make a good point. When I think about it, caulking over a painted surface is about 1000% easier than over pre-primed trim. Maybe i'll try that on my next NC job and see how she goes. 

LMAO @


> Rubbing my caulk in cracks all day


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

Bighead said:


> Rubbing my caulk in cracks all day usually lead to bloody caulk fingers.


 
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

You must be doing it wrong.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

NEPS.US said:


> :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
> 
> You must be doing it wrong.


Plus:It can lead to other problems


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## KEEGS (Nov 26, 2009)

*Caulking 101...simplified even...*

So, many excellent suggestions...at my jobsites the caulking process we use is simple and effective. Dripless quality gun, CLEAN angled cut on tube, Clean water in 5, 2 clean small towels (cloth), ALWAYS one clean cloth thrown over non caulking hand shoulder to both moisten and wipe clean caulking fingers, keep fingers exceptionally clean, keep rag rinsed and clean, practice and gain confidence. The rag on the shoulder is awesome...it is right there, but you dont have to hold it. You get a damp spot on your shirt, but get over it...it's water. In new construction it is highly beneficial to re-prime the crap primer that comes on all of the trim, for 3 reasons. 1...it makes caulking extremely easier than if you had not primed first, it puts a REAL primer on that expensive trim, and that primer will fill quite a few areas that would have required caulk, thus saving time and money. Let's face it, caulking is a critical step in reaching a superior finished product. A gummy fingered hack with a tube of caulk with a 3/8 inch opening cut straight across could destroy an otherwise excellent trim job, and most definately destroy any chances of a high quality end result.:yes:


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

It's make it or break it, when it comes to interior caulking work. this part best left to someone who knows how like you said.


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

So what are your techniques for getting the perfect 90 degree corner? do you use a wet finger and 'round' the caulk? use a 5-in-1 and remove all the excess to leave a straight angle? shove you rag in there and remove as much caulk as possible?

I usually use a wet finger and remove as much caulk as i can to 'smooth' it into a fairly straight 90 degree angle. its not straight, but but's close.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Mantis said:


> *So what are your techniques for getting the perfect 90 degree corner? *do you use a wet finger and 'round' the caulk? use a 5-in-1 and remove all the excess to leave a straight angle? shove you rag in there and remove as much caulk as possible?
> 
> I usually use a wet finger and remove as much caulk as i can to 'smooth' it into a fairly straight 90 degree angle. its not straight, but but's close.


That's where the q-tips come in handy


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Rcon said:


> That's where the q-tips come in handy


You have got to be kidding me...:blink: Q TIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Rcon said:


> That's where the q-tips come in handy


If you guys are this caught up on something as basic as caulking it aint no wonder your complaining that everyone is low balling. It must take you a frickin hour to caulk a door frame It's just caulk man!!!! you should have learned this in your first 2 weeks


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Aaron,

You do know in some parts of the country they have Caulk Police.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

True...true


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> You have got to be kidding me...:blink: Q TIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What are you talking about man? They`re perfect for tight angles and sharp corners where you can't get your finger in there to clean up the bead - unless you like leaving round corners. I don't mean that they should be used for anything else, just the tight spots. 

something like this I would use a q tip on to avoid rounded corners...


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

:shutup:


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> If you guys are this caught up on something as basic as caulking it aint no wonder your complaining that everyone is low balling. It must take you a frickin hour to caulk a door frame It's just caulk man!!!! you should have learned this in your first 2 weeks


3-5 minutes, actually.


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## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

I've found that using the right amount of caulk is essentail to caulking, you can never over do it. For finish thick caulk lines, like around vanities, tubs, etc. I use tape.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Man, Some of you guys must take forever to caulk something up.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

:surrender::surrender::surrender: I surrender


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## bergs4 (Feb 5, 2010)

It looks like I have a bit of practicing to do

Thanks for all the tips!


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

I would suggest that you at least try a couple of tubes without cutting the tip at an angle. I have found that you can get a smaller bead which will
make it so you do not have to wipe as much onto your sponge/rag. Also if your tube is cut at a 45° at times you will have to spin the tube to match the angle that you are working.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

3 pages and 42 replies on caulking....who would've thought. Starting to rate right up there with favorite brushes.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Our next topic should be removing the lid from a can


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## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

Depot, I usually will cut just enough to where I have to force the rod on the gun in the tube in order to get as small a hole as possible.
I hate it when I get to a place on the wall where the rock is bowed in between the studs leaving a gap that requires several passes. In these cases, I usually use my 5 in 1 to try and square it up and hope it does not shrink too much. A good tight fit along the wall is no problem and goes quickly.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

This is how I feel about my new found caulking freedom.


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## Daddyoh2008 (Oct 27, 2008)

*Q Tip*



Rcon said:


> Keep a wet rag, a clean cut can filled 1/2 full with water to keep your rag clean, some q-tips for tight corners and a 9 in 1 for sharp angles. .


Wow. A Q tip. I carry a tooth brush in my bag for cleaning out where my duster brush wont work...

Does anybody else have a secret weapon they can share?


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

aaron61 said:


> Our next topic should be removing the lid from a can


Or favourite brand of stir stick and which is the better direction of stirring the paint for more thorough mixing.
I have found stirring the opposite way to the earths rotation gives a more vigorous, even mix.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

So do Aussies stir the other way? 
Wow, this stuff is fascinating!


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## salestrainer (Oct 4, 2009)

Have you guys ever seen where someone has applied caulk, not smoothing it, and it isn't even in the gap it was intended to fill. I have seen it on a couple of high dollar new houses. Looked like they were in such a hurry , they missed the mark, I mean whole walls! It was just a bead off to the side of the gap! This is the same guy who probably says he is so good he doesn't need to use his finger, lol!


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

salestrainer said:


> Have you guys ever seen where someone has applied caulk, not smoothing it, and it isn't even in the gap it was intended to fill. I have seen it on a couple of high dollar new houses. Looked like they were in such a hurry , they missed the mark, I mean whole walls! It was just a bead off to the side of the gap! This is the same guy who probably says he is so good he doesn't need to use his finger, lol!


Ah, ah, ah!!!
Give 'em a chance, they need to learn. 
Invite them in here and teach them to earn :jester:

:thumbsup:
'Tis a tad irksome tho', eh?!
As PWG says (not verbatim), let 'em muck it up and then you can step in as the pro to do it right and then gain the Brownie points :thumbup:


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

mistcoat said:


> Ah, ah, ah!!!
> Give 'em a chance, they need to learn.
> Invite them in here and teach them to earn :jester:
> 
> ...


I know another site I could refer them too. :jester:


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## Msargent (Jan 16, 2009)

Diyer thread. Hire someone who can do it.


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

salestrainer said:


> Have you guys ever seen where someone has applied caulk, not smoothing it, and it isn't even in the gap it was intended to fill. I have seen it on a couple of high dollar new houses. Looked like they were in such a hurry , they missed the mark, I mean whole walls! It was just a bead off to the side of the gap! This is the same guy who probably says he is so good he doesn't need to use his finger, lol!


I was on a job once and one of the painters was caulking and I noticed he was leaving a lot of material behind, rounding out the corners big time and I looked at his fingers and I swear his index finger was as big as my big toe. I told the boss to have him brush doors instead.:icon_eek:


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## Mantis (Aug 4, 2008)

I guess I'm in the minority here in my thinking about this thread. I see nothing wrong with PROFESSIONALS asking other PROFESSIONALS about their techniques, regardless of whether or not the topic is 'simplistic'. I really enjoy picking the brains of other painters about their process of doing seemingly random tasks.

"How do you caulk", very simplistic and basic, agreed. But, "How do you lay that perfect bead of caulk" is a bit more thought provoking to me. A caulk job in a cookie cutter track home may look a lot different than a caulk job in a multi-million dollar custom home. There has to be a reason for that, right? Is one painter less of a professional than the other? Perhaps... but why?

I have seen people wipe the joints with their fingers, rags, 5-in-1s, sponges, etc. So why wouldn't I want to investigate the mindset behind the various techniques? Maybe im more inquisitive than most, but i will talk to other pros about everything! Do you paint your ceiling before or after trim? Do you caulk after prime? Do you tack cloth before final coat? Why do you paint your walls before the trim? Why? Why? Why? What's your process? I N P U T !!! 

Does it make you a better painter than me because you have your own set method of doing these simplistic tasks and dont inquire to others? Maybe. I'm glad your a better painter, now I can learn from you and become a better painter myself. That is unless you're too elistist to answer my 'simplistic' questions.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Mantis said:


> I guess I'm in the minority here in my thinking about this thread. I see nothing wrong with PROFESSIONALS asking other PROFESSIONALS about their techniques, regardless of whether or not the topic is 'simplistic'. I really enjoy picking the brains of other painters about their process of doing seemingly random tasks.
> 
> "How do you caulk", very simplistic and basic, agreed. But, "How do you lay that perfect bead of caulk" is a bit more thought provoking to me. A caulk job in a cookie cutter track home may look a lot different than a caulk job in a multi-million dollar custom home. There has to be a reason for that, right? Is one painter less of a professional than the other? Perhaps... but why?
> 
> ...


Brush doors? I would think that would be harder.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Mantis said:


> I guess I'm in the minority here in my thinking about this thread. I see nothing wrong with PROFESSIONALS asking other PROFESSIONALS about their techniques, regardless of whether or not the topic is 'simplistic'. I really enjoy picking the brains of other painters about their process of doing seemingly random tasks.
> 
> "How do you caulk", very simplistic and basic, agreed. But, "How do you lay that perfect bead of caulk" is a bit more thought provoking to me. A caulk job in a cookie cutter track home may look a lot different than a caulk job in a multi-million dollar custom home. There has to be a reason for that, right? Is one painter less of a professional than the other? Perhaps... but why?
> 
> ...


I stand corrected...you are right Mantis


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

Workaholic said:


> I know another site I could refer them too. :jester:


Oooh, you cad and bounder... :lol:


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## boman47k (May 10, 2008)

Mantis, I couldn't have said any better. How many times has the ho been thrilled with work done, but the painter, trim carpenter, whatever knew it was not as good as *they* intended, or it took more time than they thought it should have to get it as good as they could with what they had to work with?


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Where to begin? Hmmmm, seriously I thought Scott Burt was joking when he brought up I should comment in this thread {joking about the actual existence of such thread in the first place}. But I guess it's no joke after all. 

So here goes, a perfect way to lay down a perfect bead of caulk. Cut the tip off your caulking cartridge - and then apply the caulk to the crack you want to fill, but first make sure your pants are pulled up - or some nasty things can happen. Then once you are done laying down your bead of caulk {pronounced: (kôk) hard k, long vowel} whip out a Twenty dollar bill and use it to smooth down the bead.

Why a $20 bill you may ask? Well if all you are worried in this day in age is how to lay down caulking - then you ain't too worried about making money and must have plenty of it to spare.


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

Hahahahahahahahahahaha,,,,,,,, :thumbsup:


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

4 pages of this thread............I cant take it anymore :wallbash:

Dan's right; use a 20 dollar bill.


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## mistcoat (Apr 21, 2007)

Wolfgang said:


> 4 pages of this thread............I cant take it anymore :wallbash:
> 
> Dan's right; use a 20 dollar bill.


If your working for the right client, you can get your bills here...


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

So thats where they come from....


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## NEPS.US (Feb 6, 2008)

In the old days of PT the old NEPS would make comments in a thread like this and be dragged through the halls of PT and be stoned to death by the bleeding hearts that wanted to change the painting world one caulker at a time.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

:laughing:


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