# what are you using for nail filler



## Pattimore Painting (Feb 13, 2021)

Just wondering what everyone is using to fill nail holes on frames? I’ve been using Dap Alex plus spackling. The stuff has been decent, but find i always need to do 2 fills on mdf. I’m open to other suggestions!! Has anyone tried Dynatron glazing and spot putty? I’ve been seeing that around a lot.


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## wepainthouston (Nov 3, 2020)

Bondo glazing putty.


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Pattimore Painting said:


> Just wondering what everyone is using to fill nail holes on frames? I’ve been using Dap Alex plus spackling. The stuff has been decent, but find i always need to do 2 fills on mdf. I’m open to other suggestions!! Has anyone tried Dynatron glazing and spot putty? I’ve been seeing that around a lot.


If you are talking interior, we use Red Devil Onetime. I'm pretty partial to the stuff. I leave it heavy and sand it.

For cheap work, you can knife it tight and paint over in one go...especially for nail holes in walls with flat or eggshell.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I've been using any brand's variation on DAP's fast 'n final. It's quick to apply - mush it in and swipe it off with a putty knife. When it dries it actually bellies out a bit (rather than sinking in), and then a quick scuff with even as little as 220 knocks it flat. And it doesn't get brittle - stays soft and flexible which just means it holds up well inside and out. Of course, the "soft" means it isn't suitable for all applications. But for nail holes on trim, no problem.


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

Elmer's wood filler is king of all fillers! Not the pro gritty stuff, the smooth stuff is the original e855 white and e868 natural I believe. I use this on a daily basis and have almost eliminated spackle from my jobs. It dries fast, I mean real fast, bubble your holes but don't put in on heavy, use white on bare wood and natural on white so you can see what you are doing, use a 3/4" putty knife and save yourself product and sanding time, if you're good single fills will be around 80-90% effective, flashing is minimized by the density of this product, no fisheye or paint freakouts like bondo because it is water-based. I use 150g or 180g purple 3m sandpaper for sanding this stuff depending on if it bare wood or previously finished, enjoy you will love it. I now use it instead of spackle on my walls for most small repairs because of most of the same reasons. If you or someone else ever puts it on way to heavy, save your self the sanding and get out a wet rag and knock it down real fast. Hope this helps. It's truly the best filler out there hands down, I've literally tried every product there is.


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

I like the Crawford's vinyl spackling, but honestly I haven't experiment with anything else in a long while, aside from one time


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

I used Crawfords for a while it is probably my favorite "spackle". The dry time is still problematic for mid and deep repairs such as nail pops and big miters. It is my second go to next to the Elmer's. Also the tin quart cans rust so fast, create chunks in it and result in throwing away a lot of product to get clean stuff underneath. I recently found half pint jars of it in plastic which is the only reason it's still in my arsenal. Elmer's does everything better once you know how to use it. If your doing walls and have overnight for patches to dry, crawfords is a good option, if you need to get on it in an hour or two Elmer's never let's me down! Also beat up corner beads or trim corners can be much more easily and strongly reformed with Elmer's opposed to any spackle out there, unless you have a day to spare to wait for MH ready patch to set up properly.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

ilovefussy said:


> I used Crawfords for a while it is probably my favorite "spackle". The dry time is still problematic for mid and deep repairs such as nail pops and big miters. It is my second go to next to the Elmer's. Also the tin quart cans rust so fast, create chunks in it and result in throwing away a lot of product to get clean stuff underneath. I recently found half pint jars of it in plastic which is the only reason it's still in my arsenal. Elmer's does everything better once you know how to use it. If your doing walls and have overnight for patches to dry, crawfords is a good option, if you need to get on it in an hour or two Elmer's never let's me down! Also beat up corner beads or trim corners can be much more easily and strongly reformed with Elmer's opposed to any spackle out there, unless you have a day to spare to wait for MH ready patch to set up properly.


Try some goodfilla, will change your mind on that the best filler out there is


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

I'm always looking for the latest and greatest, tell me more. Which one for general filling, the bag or the pre-mix? I love the Elmer's because of everything it does and the small handheld tube is easily resealed, not wasted, easily dispensed onto small putty knife and relatively inexpensive. Where have you seen the biggest benefits of your Goodzilla-filla? Knowledge is power and I have a proven product that continues to amaze me day in and day out, please give some more details for all of us playing in the spackle game!


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

Another vote for the fast n final from me.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

+1 for Fast n Final and One Time.


---
Had to repair a badly damaged surface recently, and "USG Icing" worked well for shallow damage on smooth surfaces where Vinyl spackle would not work. 
It's like traditional Bondo, but for fine scratch repair or leveling paint chipping. Pretty toxic (really bad!), but it works well and its "almost white" in color, so it hides easily with a coat of primer. I have it in the arsenal, but would like to replace it with something that's less toxic. 

I'm interested in learning more about the Bondo Glazing Putty. Is it red?


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

ilovefussy said:


> Elmer's wood filler is king of all fillers! Not the pro gritty stuff, the smooth stuff is the original e855 white and e868 natural I believe. I use this on a daily basis and have almost eliminated spackle from my jobs. It dries fast, I mean real fast, bubble your holes but don't put in on heavy, use white on bare wood and natural on white so you can see what you are doing, use a 3/4" putty knife and save yourself product and sanding time, if you're good single fills will be around 80-90% effective, flashing is minimized by the density of this product, no fisheye or paint freakouts like bondo because it is water-based. I use 150g or 180g purple 3m sandpaper for sanding this stuff depending on if it bare wood or previously finished, enjoy you will love it. I now use it instead of spackle on my walls for most small repairs because of most of the same reasons. If you or someone else ever puts it on way to heavy, save your self the sanding and get out a wet rag and knock it down real fast. Hope this helps. It's truly the best filler out there hands down, I've literally tried every product there is.





ilovefussy said:


> I love the Elmer's because of everything it does and the small handheld tube is easily resealed, not wasted, easily dispensed onto small putty knife and relatively inexpensive.


If you like it that much I'll give it a try.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

ilovefussy said:


> I'm always looking for the latest and greatest, tell me more. Which one for general filling, the bag or the pre-mix? I love the Elmer's because of everything it does and the small handheld tube is easily resealed, not wasted, easily dispensed onto small putty knife and relatively inexpensive. Where have you seen the biggest benefits of your Goodzilla-filla? Knowledge is power and I have a proven product that continues to amaze me day in and day out, please give some more details for all of us playing in the spackle game!


Goodfilla has a really nice workability, comes in various ready mixed colors and comes in a trowel ready grain filling or as a putty. Sands like a dream too.
The powder is nice very economical and can be mixed with any latex paint/primer (match your top coat), *water or lacquer*.


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## Pattimore Painting (Feb 13, 2021)

I’ll definitely give the elmers and the fast and final a shot. I like the idea of the fast and final being a patch and prime in one to eliminate priming, but usually do two coats on the trim so I guess there is no need to really skip the prime step... I do however absolutely love the idea of using the tan coloured elmers on white trim. Actually wish I thought of that sooner.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Pattimore Painting said:


> I’ll definitely give the elmers and the fast and final a shot. I like the idea of the fast and final being a patch and prime in one to eliminate priming, but usually do two coats on the trim so I guess there is no need to really skip the prime step... I do however absolutely love the idea of using the tan coloured elmers on white trim. Actually wish I thought of that sooner.


I generally don't prime it, but it definitely flashes like mad - although I've never met a patching compound that doesn't. So a spot of primer won't hurt. But 2x top coats usually gets it too. I will use it on smaller wall repairs and such too, and when I do, I typically run around and spot them when I start cutting in which means they end up w 3 coats. 

I'll have to try the goodfilla at some point too.


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

We like to use Elmers wood filler for initial fill. After primer if we see something minor we use glazing putty.


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

ilovefussy said:


> Elmer's wood filler is king of all fillers! Not the pro gritty stuff, the smooth stuff is the original e855 white and e868 natural I believe. I use this on a daily basis and have almost eliminated spackle from my jobs. It dries fast, I mean real fast, bubble your holes but don't put in on heavy, use white on bare wood and natural on white so you can see what you are doing, use a 3/4" putty knife and save yourself product and sanding time, if you're good single fills will be around 80-90% effective, flashing is minimized by the density of this product, no fisheye or paint freakouts like bondo because it is water-based. I use 150g or 180g purple 3m sandpaper for sanding this stuff depending on if it bare wood or previously finished, enjoy you will love it. I now use it instead of spackle on my walls for most small repairs because of most of the same reasons. If you or someone else ever puts it on way to heavy, save your self the sanding and get out a wet rag and knock it down real fast. Hope this helps. It's truly the best filler out there hands down, I've literally tried every product there is.


I'm a huge wood filler fan, too. I've not found Elmers lately, though. I've been using the SW wood filler and Plastic Wood. But yeah, I think wood filler is the gold standard for hole filling. Awesome stuff.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Yep. Any of the "light weight" fillers like "one time" are great for nailholes or deep wounds. Doesn't shrink, minimal sanding. Not great for shallow repairs though. A creamier spackle is best for 2nd coating and little dents. Bondo indoors? Gross. Not necessary.


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## shamal (Feb 9, 2020)

ilovefussy said:


> Elmer's wood filler is king of all fillers! Not the pro gritty stuff, the smooth stuff is the original e855 white and e868 natural I believe. I use this on a daily basis and have almost eliminated spackle from my jobs. It dries fast, I mean real fast, bubble your holes but don't put in on heavy, use white on bare wood and natural on white so you can see what you are doing, use a 3/4" putty knife and save yourself product and sanding time, if you're good single fills will be around 80-90% effective, flashing is minimized by the density of this product, no fisheye or paint freakouts like bondo because it is water-based. I use 150g or 180g purple 3m sandpaper for sanding this stuff depending on if it bare wood or previously finished, enjoy you will love it. I now use it instead of spackle on my walls for most small repairs because of most of the same reasons. If you or someone else ever puts it on way to heavy, save your self the sanding and get out a wet rag and knock it down real fast. Hope this helps. It's truly the best filler out there hands down, I've literally tried every product there is.


Thank you for this note, I never would have tried this without a solid, knowledgeable reply like yours ; have a 1920's reno to fill nail holes after install, going to give it a go.


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## shamal (Feb 9, 2020)

celicaxx said:


> I'm a huge wood filler fan, too. I've not found Elmers lately, though. I've been using the SW wood filler and Plastic Wood. But yeah, I think wood filler is the gold standard for hole filling. Awesome stuff.


We used on a large commercial product and it worked well, the deep red color was more difficult to hide with paint, though.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Yep. Any of the "light weight" fillers like "one time" are great for nailholes or deep wounds. Doesn't shrink, minimal sanding. Not great for shallow repairs though. A creamier spackle is best for 2nd coating and little dents. Bondo indoors? Gross. Not necessary.











What specifically would you have used in this circumstance?


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## Masterwork (Sep 13, 2020)

That one that goes on pink and dries white. DryDex?

Or this one. Doesn't shrink at all. 





SHUR-STIK Featherweight Spackling Wall Compound | Home Hardware


Get the Featherweight Spackling Wall Compound - 240 ml at your local Home Hardware store. View online and pick-up in store.




www.homehardware.ca


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Masterwork said:


> That one that goes on pink and dries white. DryDex?
> 
> Or this one. Doesn't shrink at all.
> 
> ...


Shurstick is awesome stuff. Only place around here I could find it was an hour drive away. The Home Hardware here in town doesn't carry it though. A few years back I found out that the Home Hardware brand Beautitone feather weight is the same thing and made by Shurstick. It is the stuff that's pink and dries white. Only problem is that the containers they sell it in suck. Lid gets crusty and won't seal properly so the stuff dries out.

My solution was to scrape it all out and put it in an empty plastic peanut jar. So now customers ask me why I'm putting pink peanut butter on their walls to fill holes. lol.

Dries fast. Doesn't shrink at all. Easy sanding. Doesn't generate much dust either.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think spackling compound worked well for shallow imperfections - most of them were either too grainy, didn't stick well, cratered, too soft, or didn't sand well (etc...) over hard, smooth surfaces (like pictured above).

*The two-part body fillers work exceptionally well for that type of repair, but the fumes are horrendous.

Would somebody clarify:What is recommended substitute for this type of repair?


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## STAR (Nov 26, 2010)

Glazing putty in a tube is the best choice for minor repairs. It does not need the hardener like traditional body fillers and sands very easily. There is an odour, but because your using it in small quantities it's not as offensive. Google 3m glazing putty to find out more.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Holland said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think spackling compound worked well for shallow imperfections - most of them were either too grainy, didn't stick well, cratered, too soft, or didn't sand well (etc...) over hard, smooth surfaces (like pictured above).
> 
> *The two-part body fillers work exceptionally well for that type of repair, but the fumes are horrendous.
> 
> Would somebody clarify:What is recommended substitute for this type of repair?


Could depend on the spackling compound? What I keep on hand along with the fast n final stuff is the 3M patch+primer for things that are more like small drywall repairs rather than nailholes in trim and whatnot. It dries really fast (depending on depth, of course) and hard. Doesn't sand as easily as typical drywall mud, but still sands pretty well. Works fine even for just skimming small areas, so shallow isn't a problem. If you polish off your application with a wet knife swipe it lays down super-smooth. Applied well, typical repairs need minimal sanding. 

It does come in those sh**ty plastic containers, but if you keep the rim clean and scrape down the sides to lay it all back down in the bottom of the container when finished, it holds up well without getting wrecked. But even if it gets a little dried out (as long as not completely dry to hardened), easily revived with a little water.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> View attachment 111812
> 
> What specifically would you have used in this circumstance?


I'm assuming that's a plaster wall? Hard to tell from pic.. In that situation I keep a bag of Sheet Rock 20 with me. Goes on smooth, drys really hard, hardly shrinks and sands pretty easy..Skim with regular drywall mud after.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think spackling compound worked well for shallow imperfections - most of them were either too grainy, didn't stick well, cratered, too soft, or didn't sand well (etc...) over hard, smooth surfaces (like pictured above).
> 
> *The two-part body fillers work exceptionally well for that type of repair, but the fumes are horrendous.
> 
> Would somebody clarify:What is recommended substitute for this type of repair?


 My suggestions and the others I believe are for repairs on trim work, not plaster or drywall.. Spackles are generally a thicker gooier version of joint compound. Good for smaller repairs. Drys a little harder. The light weight stuff is better for nail holes because it doesnt shrink and is easier to work with..


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

finishesbykevyn said:


> I'm assuming that's a plaster wall? Hard to tell from pic.. In that situation I keep a bag of Sheet Rock 20 with me. Goes on smooth, drys really hard, hardly shrinks and sands pretty easy..Skim with regular drywall mud after.


 Its a cabinet box (old house), with existing oil enamel paint.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Masterwork said:


> That one that goes on pink and dries white. DryDex?
> 
> Or this one. Doesn't shrink at all.
> 
> ...


I'm done with drydex. Hate that stuff. Something about the pink they put in there..


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Holland said:


> Its a cabinet box (old house), with existing oil enamel paint.











LePage Wood Filler - Interior and Exterior - 500 mL


LePage® Interior/Exterior Wood Filler is a quality synthetic latex wood filler for cracks, holes and surface imperfections. A smooth, buttery paste t...




www.rona.ca


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

So I see a few people talking about bondo glazing and spot putty. This is an automotive, solvent-based product designed to fill pin holes left behind from stage 2 bondo. It stinks horribly in more ways than one. I used it for a while and got away from it because it often caused more problems than it was worth. It shrinks a lot, like 30-40%. It is red. Who wants to cover red patches on all their trim, not me unless classic burgundy becomes the new white. If you use it plan on spot priming every patch with bonding primer or something solvent based as many modern acrylic and hybrid trim paints do not play nice with it. I have seen fisheyes, sags and many other adhesion issues caused by this product. I would advise doing your research and testing before using it on a regular basis. It does ok under normal lacquer but that's about it and why it's for automotive finishing. Anyone else been down this road as well to help steer people away from this mistake?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

I was taught to use painters putty, like Crawfords. For example:
The Boomer way of nail filling was to work a wad of putty in your hands, integrating the solvent (oil, or water depending on the era) until you had a workable wad of putty. Then, you would push the putty into the nail hole, followed with a quick forward slice and back release using a one inch putty knife. All while placing the knife firmly on the work surface.

If done properly, you could quickly move through trim work without ever returning to sand. However, I was taught to putty nail holes after a wood primer had been applied. So, this required a light sanding anyways because of the wood grain lifting, and often a second coat of primer applied because sanding would expose bare wood. I was never really clear of the following:

1. Is it a better practice to putty, or spackle over bare wood, or is it better to fill over primed wood?
2. Is it better to sand pre-primed wood before filling holes, or is it better to sand after?
3. Should primed and filled trim have an additional coat of primer, or would two coats of finish suffice?
4. Is spackle better than putty?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Holland said:


> View attachment 111812
> 
> What specifically would you have used in this circumstance?


MH Ready patch.
This stuff is really good for shallow dents and scratches. it is solvent based, and dries pretty quick, but its really super smooth, like bondo is. It reminds me of a mellower glazing putty. I dont really use it for nail holes, but you could. It works REALLY well for shallow stuff, not so much for deeper. 






Zinsser Ready Patch Ready to Use White Spackling and Patching Compound 0.5 qt - Ace Hardware







www.acehardware.com


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

CApainter said:


> I was taught to use painters putty, like Crawfords. For example:
> The Boomer way of nail filling was to work a wad of putty in your hands, integrating the solvent (oil, or water depending on the era) until you had a workable wad of putty. Then, you would push the putty into the nail hole, followed with a quick forward slice and back release using a one inch putty knife. All while placing the knife firmly on the work surface.
> 
> If done properly, you could quickly move through trim work without ever returning to sand. However, I was taught to putty nail holes after a wood primer had been applied. So, this required a light sanding anyways because of the wood grain lifting, and often a second coat of primer applied because sanding would expose bare wood. I was never really clear of the following:
> ...


I worked with a Boomer who used putty and I thought he was out of his mind. I think he used some oil based putty, though, I think DAP 53. A waterbased DAP 53 might actually be kind of good, but that was a definite Boomerism that I don't think works in the modern era.

One thing I've been taught and generally believe is most things stick to primer better. So it's better to prime before caulking, glazing windows, etc, than put it on bare wood, or bare drywall for that matter, too. If it's preprimed I don't prime first, but if it's bare wood I'd prime before filling stuff and probably just go two coats of top coat without spot priming, since usually wood filler and caulking doesn't flash.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

CApainter said:


> I was taught to use painters putty, like Crawfords. For example:
> The Boomer way of nail filling was to work a wad of putty in your hands, integrating the solvent (oil, or water depending on the era) until you had a workable wad of putty. Then, you would push the putty into the nail hole, followed with a quick forward slice and back release using a one inch putty knife. All while placing the knife firmly on the work surface.
> 
> If done properly, you could quickly move through trim work without ever returning to sand. However, I was taught to putty nail holes after a wood primer had been applied. So, this required a light sanding anyways because of the wood grain lifting, and often a second coat of primer applied because sanding would expose bare wood. I was never really clear of the following:
> ...


Technically I'm an early Gen X'er. But those boomers taught me the putty-way for nail holes. I carried on that way for a long time, but did get pretty tired of carrying that oily wad around. And I find the lightweight spackling compounds to just be faster and easier.

I pretty much always prime everything before applying any manner of putty or caulk. I was taught was that, especially with regards to the putty, you don't want the wood sucking the moisture out of what you apply so the wood should be sealed up. So I prime, patch, routine light sand, caulk and 2 top coats. No return to primer.


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

ilovefussy said:


> So I see a few people talking about bondo glazing and spot putty. This is an automotive, solvent-based product designed to fill pin holes left behind from stage 2 bondo. It stinks horribly in more ways than one. I used it for a while and got away from it because it often caused more problems than it was worth. It shrinks a lot, like 30-40%. It is red. Who wants to cover red patches on all their trim, not me unless classic burgundy becomes the new white. If you use it plan on spot priming every patch with bonding primer or something solvent based as many modern acrylic and hybrid trim paints do not play nice with it. I have seen fisheyes, sags and many other adhesion issues caused by this product. I would advise doing your research and testing before using it on a regular basis. It does ok under normal lacquer but that's about it and why it's for automotive finishing. Anyone else been down this road as well to help steer people away from this mistake?


I don't think I'd use it for hole filling, but using it in automotive work I found it's the best stuff for basically skimcoating things super duper smooth. But in automotive land, I've seen the shrink and cracking happen firsthand when it's used beyond 1/16" or so thick, it really is only meant for skimcoating. I really wanna try some on trim/furniture. I have a desk I'm redoing that I may end up using it on, but the desk is being painted all with rattlecans similar to how I did my car, so I'm assuming in that scenario it's fine. 

In automotive land a lot of people are moving away from glazing putties and going to high build surfacer type primers instead. I found it weird as a lot of DIY advice on body work was "glazing putty bad!" because people try to use it to fill big dents, etc, but since DIYs usually don't have the super thick high build surfacers they probably should be used more often by DIYs to skim out stuff. Some of the newer spot putties beyond the red Bondo lacquer based stuff are actually two component mixes, I think called icing. 





This is an example of the glazing putty being used to skim coat stuff. Actual work starts at 2:45, when he gets to sanding it you can see how many prep scratches went away. 



Woodco said:


> MH Ready patch.
> This stuff is really good for shallow dents and scratches. it is solvent based, and dries pretty quick, but its really super smooth, like bondo is. It reminds me of a mellower glazing putty. I dont really use it for nail holes, but you could. It works REALLY well for shallow stuff, not so much for deeper.
> 
> 
> ...


Since it's solvent based could you thin it with acetone and use it like a glazing/skimcoat putty? I've found I could thin/revive the semi-dry red glazing putty with acetone. MH obviously comes in a bigger container than glazing putty, and it would be nice to have a solvent based putty to use for stuff.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

As a Boomer (Late model, 1960) I am open minded enough to shelve the putty next to the PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) sealer. But, you'll have to pry the color rack from my old stubby fingers.


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

Joe67 said:


> Technically I'm an early Gen X'er. But those boomers taught me the putty-way for nail holes. I carried on that way for a long time, but did get pretty tired of carrying that oily wad around. And I find the lightweight spackling compounds to just be faster and easier.
> 
> I pretty much always prime everything before applying any manner of putty or caulk. I was taught was that, especially with regards to the putty, you don't want the wood sucking the moisture out of what you apply so the wood should be sealed up. So I prime, patch, routine light sand, caulk and 2 top coats. No return to primer.


I know with window glazing, some people apply linseed oil to the inner frames before glazing instead of using a primer, and that sounds fairly sensible. Actually, the DAP 53 Boomer dude told me to do that.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

celicaxx said:


> I know with window glazing, some people apply linseed oil to the inner frames before glazing instead of using a primer, and that sounds fairly sensible. Actually, the DAP 53 Boomer dude told me to do that.


Interesting. I haven't worked on those old, hand-glazed, single pane things in a while, but we used to do a lot of them. The linseed oil thing makes sense, our SOP was to prime them, usually with oil. (Maybe the guys I learned from weren't old enough boomers). Doing something is definitely a must - you put the window glaze on bare panes (especially old, dried out ones), they suck the oil out and the life of the glazing is significantly reduced.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

According to their TDS's, both Dap oil based 53 and the Dap latex glazing compounds require an oil based primer with no exceptions. I suspect Boomer 53 just didn't want to do the extra priming and came up with the oil rub bull shnizzle.

Be careful what Boomers you get advice from. The earlier models (model 1948 to 1957) tend to exaggerate a lot. The later models (1960 for example) tend to be extremely level headed.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

CApainter said:


> According to their TDS's, both Dap oil based 53 and the Dap latex glazing compounds require an oil based primer with no exceptions. I suspect Boomer 53 just didn't want to do the extra priming and came up with the oil rub bull shnizzle.
> 
> Be careful what Boomers you get advice from. The earlier models (model 1948 to 1957) tend to exaggerate a lot. *The later models (1960 for example) tend to be extremely level headed.*


All appearances to the contrary.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Joe67 said:


> All appearances to the contrary.


My bad. I mean males.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

celicaxx said:


> I know with window glazing, some people apply linseed oil to the inner frames before glazing instead of using a primer, and that sounds fairly sensible. Actually, the DAP 53 Boomer dude told me to do that.


After mulling this over for some time, I've decided to legally change my generational status from Boomer to something like...Generation Alpha, or something. lol!


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

CApainter said:


> After mulling this over for some time, I've decided to legally change my generational status from Boomer to something like...Generation Alpha, or something. lol!


Having read more than a few of your posts over the years, I’m thinking maybe Generation Bravo Sierra would be more fitting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Woodco said:


> MH Ready patch.
> This stuff is really good for shallow dents and scratches. it is solvent based, and dries pretty quick, but its really super smooth, like bondo is. It reminds me of a mellower glazing putty. I dont really use it for nail holes, but you could. It works REALLY well for shallow stuff, not so much for deeper.
> 
> 
> ...


I forgot about that stuff, but that's a good product. 
Used to use it pretty often, but doesn't keep well in the can as I remember...


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Holland said:


> I forgot about that stuff, but that's a good product.
> Used to use it pretty often, but doesn't keep well in the can as I remember...


It's the solvent based thing. If you don't go thru it fast, it goes to sh**


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

Single fill face mount hinge imprints and old screw holes with Elmer's natural wood filler over BIN. Sanded with 180g paper. No second fill needed. 2nd coat BIN. 2 coats of trim paint. Get it right the first time, don't mess with the rest when you can have the best.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

ilovefussy said:


> Single fill face mount hinge imprints and old screw holes with Elmer's natural wood filler over BIN. Sanded with 180g paper. No second fill needed. 2nd coat BIN. 2 coats of trim paint. Get it right the first time, don't mess with the rest when you can have the best.


What an odd post? Was there a point?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Joe67 said:


> What an odd post? Was there a point?


If there is one thing I have learned so far its that there is no shortage of painters who have everything figured out and everyone else's system is inferior.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

As a DIY Behavioral Scientist, I've discovered that the trades with the least amount of practiced standards and technical requirements, have the most experts.


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Goodfilla has a really nice workability, comes in various ready mixed colors and comes in a trowel ready grain filling or as a putty. Sands like a dream too.
> The powder is nice very economical and can be mixed with any latex paint/primer (match your top coat), *water or lacquer*.


Wow sounds different. If mixed with primer will it stop flashing. Primer and fill in one!

I'd use a product that may take a little longer to apply but fills in 1 coat and no flashing.


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## Trigger Happy (Mar 31, 2021)

ilovefussy said:


> Elmer's wood filler is king of all fillers! Not the pro gritty stuff, the smooth stuff is the original e855 white and e868 natural I believe. I use this on a daily basis and have almost eliminated spackle from my jobs. It dries fast, I mean real fast, bubble your holes but don't put in on heavy, use white on bare wood and natural on white so you can see what you are doing, use a 3/4" putty knife and save yourself product and sanding time, if you're good single fills will be around 80-90% effective, flashing is minimized by the density of this product, no fisheye or paint freakouts like bondo because it is water-based. I use 150g or 180g purple 3m sandpaper for sanding this stuff depending on if it bare wood or previously finished, enjoy you will love it. I now use it instead of spackle on my walls for most small repairs because of most of the same reasons. If you or someone else ever puts it on way to heavy, save your self the sanding and get out a wet rag and knock it down real fast. Hope this helps. It's truly the best filler out there hands down, I've literally tried every product there is.


I disagree.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Trigger Happy said:


> I disagree.


 No you dont.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Lakesidex said:


> Wow sounds different. If mixed with primer will it stop flashing. Primer and fill in one!
> 
> I'd use a product that may take a little longer to apply but fills in 1 coat and no flashing.


@GoodFilla is a member here, ask him to send you a sample


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## Trigger Happy (Mar 31, 2021)

fromthenorthwest said:


> I like the Crawford's vinyl spackling, but honestly I haven't experiment with anything else in a long while, aside from one time


Best all around general filler. Weak on hardness. Elmer's or a wood filler mix, or bondo for strength.


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## Trigger Happy (Mar 31, 2021)

Woodco said:


> No you dont.


Yes I do.


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

So I'm relatively new to this forum. I am not trying to call out any one person but I thought this site was about paint related topics. I have 23 years of experience in the painting industry and came to a discussion platform to give and receive feedback about products and procedures that work and don't, sometimes with a bias because I'm finally so thrilled about how well something actually works or doesn't that I want to help others. The snarky and sarcastic comments I've seen so far are very counterproductive and rather insensible as most of us would rather see any opposing views interject their unwitty responses and one liners with knowledge, skill, experience or any other relative information about the discussion topic. We (as craftsman) are too busy everyday trying to be the most effective and efficient painters possible to deal with ineffectiveness and inefficiency with people TRYing to be funny while we are trying to get relevant and substantiated information. Let's keep it professional and productive, it will benefit us all.


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

I really want to try goodfilla except...the Elmer's I use in tubes is doing too good of a job at everything it's supposed to. Carrying a premixed tube of either white or natural around is much easier and simpler than to have to mix my own everytime I want to use it, put it in another container or on a putty knife, then dispense it onto my application knife and apply it, only to have to repeat the process time and time again as it gets unworkable or when I run out. Time and convenience are money. Instead uncap, apply, recap, repeat. Pretty simple. Does goodfilla make tubes?


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

ilovefussy said:


> So I'm relatively new to this forum. I am not trying to call out any one person but I thought this site was about paint related topics. I have 23 years of experience in the painting industry and came to a discussion platform to give and receive feedback about products and procedures that work and don't, sometimes with a bias because I'm finally so thrilled about how well something actually works or doesn't that I want to help others. The snarky and sarcastic comments I've seen so far are very counterproductive and rather insensible as most of us would rather see any opposing views interject their unwitty responses and one liners with knowledge, skill, experience or any other relative information about the discussion topic. We (as craftsman) are too busy everyday trying to be the most effective and efficient painters possible to deal with ineffectiveness and inefficiency with people TRYing to be funny while we are trying to get relevant and substantiated information. Let's keep it professional and productive, it will benefit us all.


Holy cow. I am ROFL. 😂 See _*your*_ post #48. This is a definition of *NOT* providing "a discussion...about products and procedures that work and don't.." Nor was it "relevant and substantiated information" or "professional and productive."

*Maybe *you have 23 years in the painting industry (I've got you by 10 years there - and others here even more). But you apparently have near zero years in internet discussion board experience. If you don't want "snarky" comments then don't be snarky - like don't show up to an ongoing discussion (with almost 50 replies), post a couple of meaningless pictures that show *NOTHING *and leave it at "_don't mess with the rest when you can have the best." _ 

"Why, oh yes, of course, sir. The rest of us now realize. The king has arrived. Issue settled by your 23 years of experience." (Bow down. Bow down.)

Listen newb to the painttalk world - your 23 years of experience and input are welcome. But if you want to put out snark, then expect snark. And then don't whine about it. If you want to be the "authority" - about nail fillers or about the proper content / character of online discussions, without getting pushback, then don't join a discussion board. Start a blog where you can be the ultimate authority that can't be questioned.

Cheers.


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

Really! It was an example of what could be done, try talking less and doing more....c'mon man...ya know the rest...WORK!


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## ilovefussy (Mar 26, 2021)

You must have missed posts #5 and #7 where I laid the groundwork for some follow-up pictures to SUBSTANTIATE my opinions, sorry I'm too busy working all day to troll other people that actually want to participate in a ridicule...errr I mean talk forum. I'm here to get and give help including yours and mine. Also it's not what you know it's how well you do it, bro. You must just sit and re-read your posts until they are comedic because if you were ROFL it must have been when you realized you had to clean up the mess you had all over the place, poured goof off all over your clothes, rolled around in your mess a little longer only to realize that you are the goof and there is no off, just you. Get a grip bro!


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

ilovefussy said:


> You must have missed posts #5 and #7 where I laid the groundwork for some follow-up pictures to SUBSTANTIATE my opinions, sorry I'm too busy working all day to troll other people that actually want to participate in a ridicule...errr I mean talk forum. I'm here to get and give help including yours and mine. Also it's not what you know it's how well you do it, bro. You must just sit and re-read your posts until they are comedic because if you were ROFL it must have been when you realized you had to clean up the mess you had all over the place, poured goof off all over your clothes, rolled around in your mess a little longer only to realize that you are the goof and there is no off, just you. Get a grip bro!


Alright, keep it civil guys. Don't want to make you both have to stand in the corner.


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## olepainter (Dec 31, 2013)

white lighting painters putty, is what I use, it doesn't flash, & doesn't shrink, doesn't bleed thru.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

The natural tendency of a virtual community is to be competitive, provocative, and argumentative. Particularly, when there is little to no measurable evidence of competency among anonymous participants- Including one's virtue. There are many ways to navigate social media. Not being provoked is one of them. Not being intimidated is another. And finally, demonstrating a little humility and occasional humor is another. 

Confidence and integrity developed in the "Real World" lessens the dependency for favorable outcomes in the "Virtual World."


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

ilovefussy said:


> I really want to try goodfilla except...the Elmer's I use in tubes is doing too good of a job at everything it's supposed to. Carrying a premixed tube of either white or natural around is much easier and simpler than to have to mix my own everytime I want to use it, put it in another container or on a putty knife, then dispense it onto my application knife and apply it, only to have to repeat the process time and time again as it gets unworkable or when I run out. Time and convenience are money. Instead uncap, apply, recap, repeat. Pretty simple. Does goodfilla make tubes?


goodfilla comes premixed or as a powder that you can mix with just about anything. Paint, Primer, water based stains or dyes, lacquer... you can get empty squeeze tubes on amazon.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

I am sure others who use Elmers know this but if you are just trying it for the first time: if you buy it in the shallow containers it will tend to dry out. - especially if the lid accidentally pops off. Just add a small amount of water and stir to bring it back to a usable consistency. But I also keep my container of it in a Ziploc bag to prevent the drying-out occurring in the first place.


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## Packard (May 2, 2018)

I did a quick google search to see if any reputable sources of test information was available on this subject. Fine Home Building had this article:









Deciding on Wood Fillers - Fine Homebuilding


There are a huge variety of products for repairing holes and rot in wood. Green Building Advisor editor Brian Pontolilo describes the differences between fillers, putties, epoxies, and spackle, as well as when each is most appropriately used.




www.finehomebuilding.com





They seem to favor Elmers for nail holes prior to painting.


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Well, it is cheap and relatively easy to find. Plus it’s a forgiving product to use. Just be sure to get the original interior formula (white tub with orange lid). They have another type (I think it’s the exterior version) that is very coarse. I didn’t care for it at all.


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

I always evaluate the prep situation and variables, use a different route for nail holes here or there depending on things. 
Mdf seems to be the most popular product I've been painting for trim in recent years. 

Sure I've prepped and painted wood trim as well like VG Fir, Poplar, Alaskan Cedar, Mahogany, finger joined spruce or pine, (not cool) . Factory primer was failing and wood had a lot of tannins. 
Anyways, for new construction I go around prepping all the nail holes before I start my rounds with the filler. 
I run my 1.5" putty knife across the face of flatstock mdf, removing any loose debris, raised mdf, and that'll find any nails that need to get set.
Then go around with my vacuum brush on an extension and clear out the holes and clean anything as needed to fill.
I sometimes use pure Elmer's carpenter filler, and especially (only) if I will be using the orbital sanders on it all. I'll plan to sand out any swollen mdf around the nail holes.

So I'll first fill a whole bunch of areas or whole floor... over filling smoothly (or decently).. then orbital sand with vacuum attached... 220 or worn in 180 grit. 220 turns out nicer. I'm not afraid to sand through the factory primer as needed, everything is feathered out as I go. With Flats first sanded, I might hand sand all edges and corners of door casing, windows, etc, or just go ahead and 2nd fill with Crawfords Vinyl Spackle, (and sand corners after) applying with a Super Flex 1.5" putty knife. 
If I were prepping colonial style, or flat mdf, I wouldn't sand the factory primer smooth before filling... I'd do that after filler is on.

-- Options with Elmer's that I also use very often is mixing the Elmer's filler with Crawfords spackle if you want an easier sanding, yet denser body filler (than spackle).
You can mix any ratio. 50/50 is still a tiny bit to hand sand, yet very quick with a DTS400 or 5" orbital. You can mix 25% Elmer's and 75% Spackle and be able to hand sand if you had to.
If you're great at prepwork and the client isn't wanting a Super fine finish, you can skip the red patch but have to use lights with all prep and be able to sand out small blemishes rather than fill them.
Otherwise Red glazing putty, aka spot putty, aka lacquer putty, aka red patch is made for extremely shallow imperfections, and should be sanded until very little is left, on a primed surface. 

With the exception of some spec homes we painted.... I always prime after fillers, and caulking... (so only if it's completely out of my control and we had to)


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