# This is new to me.. painting the exposed foundation



## scholarlypainting (Sep 30, 2008)

I just finished an exterior job on a nice house for a customer and noticed their foundation looks like poop. I want to sell them on painting it but never having painted a foundation thought i would reach out to the club first.

I called my rep, I can get a hold of Elvis easier then that guy, called a few other painters, but they didnt help either.. Searched the website too..

anyone paint the foundations? how would you prep it, what product would you use?

also, the rebar is showing through in areas, would that eventually bleed out of the paint coating?

Heres a pic of it..






























Thanks !


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.


What he said!


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

timhag said:


> What he said!


Thanks for the vote of confidence. :thumbsup:


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> Thanks for the vote of confidence. :thumbsup:


You summed it up in a nut shell, couldn't have said it any better. So glad you did because I didn't want 2 :thumbup:


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.


Plus, will need to powerwash and scrape all loose sh!t. Then continue with what PWG said.


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## timhag (Sep 30, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> Thanks for the vote of confidence. :thumbsup:


How about a thank button tap? what do you say???


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

See how easy this is?


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Yeah what they said. It is an eye sore now that the rest is painted, suprised it was not brought up in the original contract as it has been painted prior.


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## Slingah (Sep 24, 2007)

is something on there now (coating?)
I did the foundation on a condo building I do work for....my SW rep told me to do 2 coats Duration after a good cleaning....I did....looked great and still holding up fine....building is very close to the ocean
I'd still prime the rebar


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

ProWallGuy said:


> Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.


DITTO!!!!:thumbsup:


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Is that house falling over???


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I would NOT prime it with a masonry primer.


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> Is that house falling over???


no but I think the photographer was 



Bender said:


> I would NOT prime it with a masonry primer.


What then ? and why not? 

BTW, SP, that IS not good looking now. Poop looks better than that !


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Masonry primer's strong point is its tenacious grip to masonry (and a little bit of PH balance/neutralizer) 
There is no masonry there to paint, per se. There is only paint there (that needs to be repainted)


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

Bender said:


> Masonry primer's strong point is its tenacious grip to masonry (and a little bit of PH balance/neutralizer)
> There is no masonry there to paint, per se. There is only paint there (that needs to be repainted)


You're right. However, if there's bare surfaces after pressure washing/scraping it then spot priming them would be a good idea.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

TooledUp said:


> You're right. However, if there's bare surfaces after pressure washing/scraping it then spot priming them would be a good idea.


Thank you, Mr Obvious
:jester:


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## daArch (Mar 15, 2008)

Bender said:


> Masonry primer's strong point is its tenacious grip to masonry (and a little bit of PH balance/neutralizer)
> There is no masonry there to paint, per se. There is only paint there (that needs to be repainted)


That's what I thought, but did not want to second guess your reasons.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

what they said, Hydrosealer is a GREAT masonry primer and dries FAST! :thumbsup:


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## scholarlypainting (Sep 30, 2008)

I have a lot of THANKS to give out!

...thanks everyone..

but to dispel some ideals.. that foundation has never been painted ( minus the black tar-ish stuff by the ground).. the pictures are deceiving.. its actually just poured concrete..

In this case should I go with a masonry primer, rust inhibitor on the rusties, and then some duration?


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## ProWallGuy (Apr 7, 2007)

Bender said:


> Masonry primer's strong point is its tenacious grip to masonry (and a little bit of PH balance/neutralizer)
> There is no masonry there to paint, per se. There is only paint there (that needs to be repainted)


You are correct sir! I couldn't tell if it had been painted, or it was some sort of raw concrete substrate. If raw, masonry primer. If painted, just another coat of high-quality 100% acrylic exterior primer.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

or what ever top coat paint you like. If you have a hammer and a flat chisel you can break those concrete form tabs off, if they are sticking out a bunch. It would help with the extra rust problem.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

OK then...


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

I'm totally lost in all this, but I can tell that the ac unit is lavitating, so I would not work on this house at all.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

johnpaint said:


> I'm totally lost in all this, but I can tell that the ac unit is lavitating, so I would not work on this house at all.


:laughing:


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

ProWallGuy said:


> Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.


This, plus powerwash with bleach and tsp to kill off what ever is growing in there first. They can tint the masonry primer (SW Loxon or BM 066, other companies have them as well), some stores do not know this. Would it work to masonry prime the whole shebang, then spot prime the rust? Wait, the waterborne primer would flash rust the metal, just kidding. Should be an easy job minus painting the fake brick. If the concrete is bare I would plan on two coats of paint as you need to achieve less than 10 pinholes per square inch for a location like that. It is often best to paint concrete (especially south facing) in the later afternoon as the concrete is "inhaling" which helps such the coating tight to the substrate and reduces offgassing (which would be causing your pinholing). I like Accolades from P & L in eggshell for something like that, cleans really well just rinsing it with the hose to keep it looking nice.


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## scholarlypainting (Sep 30, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> This, plus powerwash with bleach and tsp to kill off what ever is growing in there first. They can tint the masonry primer (SW Loxon or BM 066, other companies have them as well), some stores do not know this. Would it work to masonry prime the whole shebang, then spot prime the rust? Wait, the waterborne primer would flash rust the metal, just kidding. Should be an easy job minus painting the fake brick. If the concrete is bare I would plan on two coats of paint as you need to achieve less than 10 pinholes per square inch for a location like that. It is often best to paint concrete (especially south facing) in the later afternoon as the concrete is "inhaling" which helps such the coating tight to the substrate and reduces offgassing (which would be causing your pinholing). I like Accolades from P & L in eggshell for something like that, cleans really well just rinsing it with the hose to keep it looking nice.



wow.. inhaling concrete? thats outstanding!


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

scholarlypainting said:


> wow.. inhaling concrete? thats outstanding!


No, I am serious. If you think long and hard, and maybe ask your most knowledgeable rep (or NACE) about it, it is true. In the AM as the concrete heats up, it expands, forcing the trapped air in it out. As it starts to cool back down, it contracts, and suck small amount of air back into it. If you paint concrete in the sun around say 10 am its pretty obvious. And make sure you use something with a little sheen down there. Honestly though, that white colored concrete might look pretty sharp with a good PW and maybe just a sealer on it. Once you paint concrete you have committed to painting it.


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## scholarlypainting (Sep 30, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> No, I am serious. If you think long and hard, and maybe ask your most knowledgeable rep (or NACE) about it, it is true. In the AM as the concrete heats up, it expands, forcing the trapped air in it out. As it starts to cool back down, it contracts, and suck small amount of air back into it. If you paint concrete in the sun around say 10 am its pretty obvious. And make sure you use something with a little sheen down there. Honestly though, that white colored concrete might look pretty sharp with a good PW and maybe just a sealer on it. Once you paint concrete you have committed to painting it.



you are the concrete man.. thanks for the heads up!


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