# Painting Metal Bathroom Partitions in place



## Jerry2 (Nov 27, 2016)

Hello, I need some recommendations as to spraying in place metal restroom partitions. 1) there is no ventilation except one small window. 2) Partitions are stripped to bare metal sanded with 80 grit paper. 3) What type of primer? 4) What type of paint?
I am using a FUJI Turbine with HVLP cup gun.
Is this a bad idea and should I consider rolling the finish on?
Thanks in advance.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Jerry2 said:


> Hello, I need some recommendations as to spraying in place metal restroom partitions. 1) there is no ventilation except one small window. 2) Partitions are stripped to bare metal sanded with 80 grit paper. 3) What type of primer? 4) What type of paint?
> I am using a FUJI Turbine with HVLP cup gun.
> Is this a bad idea and should I consider rolling the finish on?
> Thanks in advance.


Before going through the process of prepping and painting these things, have you considered replacing them? You may be surprised to find out how practical and in expensive they are to replace. I have installed several of them.

And if you decide to paint them, it may be easier to remove and spray them elsewhere.


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## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

pitt tech plus dtm--ppg.


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

sounds like you should just paint them all by hand. how many are there? are you spraying to save time or for looks? as far as what primer i am curious as well because i havent had a lot of luck finding a good metal primer yet


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## ridesarize (Jun 19, 2012)

CApainter said:


> And if you decide to paint them, it may be easier to remove and spray them elsewhere.


I agree with removing in order to spray paint. I would prefer someone else removing and installing because I could only imagine many screws stripping out, being rusty, or having drywall anchoring issues, etc.

To spray in place with dtm you will have to mask everything, well. Even with hvlp. Oil dtm makes a mess. Having them removed to spray you still need a large space, masking coverage, and it could get messy as well without a solid plan.

Vylum, oil Direct to Metal paint, industrial grade but found at good paint stores. No primer. When needed get some industrial rusty metal primer.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Actually, chemical resistance from pee and cleansers would be better suited with two component epoxies. Even waterborne epoxies like PPG's Aqua Pon, would be more chemical resistant than a single component alkyd DTM.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

We've just taken them out and had them done at an auto body shop.

The biggest hassle has been the usual tamper-proof fasteners.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Gough said:


> We've just taken them out and had them done at an auto body shop.
> 
> The biggest hassle has been the usual tamper-proof fasteners.


It's usually not a problem if you carry those special torque bits with the pin in the middle. Available at Home Depot no less.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

CApainter said:


> It's usually not a problem if you carry those special torque bits with the pin in the middle. Available at Home Depot no less.


That's not the style we see around here. What we see are what I often hear called "one-way" screws.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Gough said:


> That's not the style we see around here. What we see are what I often hear called "one-way" screws.
> 
> View attachment 85946



I hate those things. Why do they do that? It's a splitter between poopers. Who's gonna mess with that?

Either way, a drill with a metal bit and an angle grinder with a thin kerf cut off wheel will take care of those.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

Wildbill7145 said:


> I hate those things. Why do they do that? It's a splitter between poopers. Who's gonna mess with that?
> 
> Either way, a drill with a metal bit and an angle grinder with a thin kerf cut off wheel will take care of those.


Or a drill and a screw extractor/EZ-out. In either case, the security Torx or the like are certainly easier.


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Gough said:


> That's not the style we see around here. What we see are what I often hear called "one-way" screws.
> 
> View attachment 85946


I've only seen those on wrought iron window barriers. Why would someone put that on a privacy screen?


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## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

Based on the Thanks count, I think you all are making this a little too complicated for our newly welcomed member. Unfortunately, the weight of experience at PT can have that affect.


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

CApainter said:


> Based on the Thanks count, I think you all are making this a little too complicated for our newly welcomed member. Unfortunately, the weight of experience at PT can have that affect.


Our motto should be "Two hundred active members, 205 different opinions."


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## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

CApainter said:


> I've only seen those on wrought iron window barriers. Why would someone put that on a privacy screen?


The same reason so many other trades do things...to make life difficult for painters.


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## jr.sr. painting (Dec 6, 2013)

Then last time I painted those type of partitions was at a local bar. We used sw acrylic alkyd urethane... just brush and roll. We cleaned it all with spray 9 and sanded off all rust and have not had any problems in a year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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