# Spraying Shellac B.I.N. Fire Seal I have questions



## Greenclover2013

I am spraying Zinnser Shellac to fire seal a building that had a fire to seal all the smell and toxins from the fire. Has anyone every sprayed alcohol based shellac? Will it ruin my Graco airless? How often should I clean my airless during an 8 hour day? I know how quick it dries so I dont want to ruin my airless and tips. Any suggestions? Anyone have any tips on how to go about this project? I have to spray every square inch of this two story house. I have to coat every piece of wood, studs, walls, ceilings, floors, etc. This is a huge two story victorian home. Its going to take atleast 60-100 gallons. Anyone know a more cost effective product to use besides Zin B.I.N.? Anyone who has ever sprayed shellac or alcohol based product I could use some advice. Thanks.. Happy Spraying!


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## Stonehampaintdept

I have never sprayed BIN so I cannot say how it will affect your sprayer at all. But, it will certainly do the job. If you want to not risk the sprayer (unless someone else here has experience with it) you can go to an oil sealer. Low odor 207 would be an alternate option. http://www.californiapaints.com/Find-a-Product/Interior-Products/Interior-Primers--Alkyd/Prime-Choice-Low-Odor-Primer.aspx


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## Schmidt & Co.

I've sprayed tons of Bin through my pump with no problems. Just make sure to clean it well. Use denatured alcohol or ammonia to clean and you should be good.


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## Xmark

i'd certainly look to use fresh-air breathing apparatus if i had to spray 100 gallons of BIN.


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## jonathanthepainter

I have done many fire restoration w/white pigmented shellac. No need to clean out you sprayer until the project is done. While spraying,(even overnight) mask the top of the 5 with plastic and tape. I clean with ammonia water mix approx 1/3. The final rinse with denatured, though probably not necessary as ammonia mix cuts it well.

First make sure the substrate is dry, firemen hose alot of water to distinguish a fire. Get a moisture meter, check everywhere, 12% is perfect. Do not begin if the moisture is above that you are asking for failure. And CHECK FOR MOLD GROWTH! If it appears it must be remedied before any coating. This is an entire topic in itself. Not to be overlooked.

When applying the product use a small tip, 611 for the whole house, the product atomizes well,drys fast sealing everything.

Do not think hitting it with a fat coat of primer!

The product will provide 400-450 + sq ft per gallon or more, and work well.
Protection is key have extra filters for the respirator, change at least twice a day, and many extra pre filters change out every hour or so, VIP as it is quick dry and will clog a pre filter every hour or so dependent on what you are sealing. gloves, long sleeves etc
.
full face respirators are recommended. It will attack your eyes.

Have plenty of air movement.Both fresh in and exhaust.

Make sure no one is parked by the exhaust fans. 

Last one we did was in the dead of winter. Fast track project, schedule stated coating to be completed in 5 days, huge project took a month to dry , mold began to grow as the temps increased, we saw immediately as we were checking for moisture content. Architect/engineer said it would disappear as it dried completely... 
Two weeks later we were blasting bleach hand Jomax to kill mold which was everywhere. 
Shot 100 gallons of shellac for 36000 sq ft. in 2 days. (2 guys 1 lid was 16 ft high, on scaffold)


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## painterdave71

Xmark said:


> i'd certainly look to use fresh-air breathing apparatus if i had to spray 100 gallons of BIN.


but if he sprays the 1st 5 gallons without it (resp or clean air hood) his concern over the airless would b but a memory. lol. seriously tho, great advice. a plain respirator just wont do if ur spraying that much. i have tried with just 10 gallons in a attic & charged my boss the necessary $6.85 i lost as my lunch decided to vacate.


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## straight_lines

Xmark said:


> i'd certainly look to use fresh-air breathing apparatus if i had to spray 100 gallons of BIN.


Last time I did a fire resto it was 45 gallons, but no windows or doors in the house so not so bad. If I were inside with no ventilation I would for sure have a supplied fresh air set up.

Your pump will be fine. Like john suggested you can also save some coin when flushing and use ammonia instead of alcohol.


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## [email protected]

One other option is to use oil dry fall. Have gone through drums of it for this type of work. Normally we tint to the color of new lumber. 
David


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## PeintureLavergne.com

I used methyl hydrate to clean my pump.
I found the overspray to be extremely volatile... as in it flew all over the place.
I also found that you often need to take breaks, even with a respirator...


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## [email protected]

The trick with bin is how you vent the room. If it is done right most times you will not even know witch product you are using. 
David


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## PeintureLavergne.com

[email protected] said:


> The trick with bin is how you vent the room. If it is done right most times you will not even know witch product you are using.
> David


Wow:notworthy: I need to learn about that!!


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## RH

Spraying it isn't really any different than any other product. The issue is what it'll do to you. I agree with Xmark about using a fresh air apparatus. Spraying that much will not be good for you if using a regular respirator.


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## miket

Many years ago on a fire job my dad had two guys spraying 45 gallons of bin in a basement. Ventillation was just the open door at top of stairs The breaker popped so they went to reset it. It was dim so one of the guy took out his lighter for some light and the other knocked it out of his hands before he could light it. Then they were yelling at each other. Bin is 60% alcohol so if all those gallons were evaporated I think it might have been within the explosive limits. I was outside priming some replaced shingles around the basement window!

It would have been quite ironic if we blew up a fire restoration job! lol.

Has anyone ever blown up a job spraying bin?


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## kdpaint

No, but a guy near me blew himself up last year in a shop while spraying lacquer. He didn't die, but he doesn't live well, either. He was in an un-insulated shed he was using as a spray booth in the winter, and a space heater kicked on.


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## wje

miket said:


> Many years ago on a fire job my dad had two guys spraying 45 gallons of bin in a basement. Ventillation was just the open door at top of stairs The breaker popped so they went to reset it. It was dim so one of the guy took out his lighter for some light and the other knocked it out of his hands before he could light it. Then they were yelling at each other. Bin is 60% alcohol so if all those gallons were evaporated I think it might have been within the explosive limits. I was outside priming some replaced shingles around the basement window!
> 
> It would have been quite ironic if we blew up a fire restoration job! lol.
> 
> Has anyone ever blown up a job spraying bin?


We do a lot of restoration in my neck of the woods. One of the bigger Restoration companies had a fire in the warehouse that was storing all of the fire loss victims possesions.. 

Imagine being able to salvage some goods from your burnt house, only to lose them at your contractors storage facility... you would have to laugh


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## brvpaint

Schmidt & Co. said:


> I've sprayed tons of Bin through my pump with no problems. Just make sure to clean it well. Use denatured alcohol or ammonia to clean and you should be good.


Do I have to keep a separate sprayer for solvent-based materials? I have been told that if I put lacquer through a sprayer, I'll never be able to put latex through it again. Is that true of stuff like the BIN / SW shellac primers? I'm just getting into cabinets (Mostly paint interior walls, trim, doors and built-in furniture). I want to prime the bare wood with BIN or SW's shellac primer and then spray Emerald Urethane for my finish material. Am I about to ruin my equipment?

Help me out here!


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## finishesbykevyn

brvpaint said:


> Do I have to keep a separate sprayer for solvent-based materials? I have been told that if I put lacquer through a sprayer, I'll never be able to put latex through it again. Is that true of stuff like the BIN / SW shellac primers? I'm just getting into cabinets (Mostly paint interior walls, trim, doors and built-in furniture). I want to prime the bare wood with BIN or SW's shellac primer and then spray Emerald Urethane for my finish material. Am I about to ruin my equipment?
> 
> Help me out here!


 Resurrecting 8 year old threads is kind of frowned upon here. Try to pay attention to the the thread date.. but.. yes, use a different sprayer for BIN than your latex or you will hate life in general.


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## Masterwork

I don't even care about the old threads now. This new website design is such a pain. 

You _can_ spray everything through one pump, but you're looking at a few hours of cleaning between materials. It's definitely easier to have a dedicated pump for each type of stuff.


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