# High build interior primer



## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi guys, 
I have been trying out a couple new variations of spot priming repairs on the job. I am trying to achieve what all of us here want on our interior work, seamless repairs with a close texture match. Does anybody here have any tricks up their sleeves ?
Thanks everybody
Jay


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## Tonyg (Dec 9, 2007)

On walls? cabinets? trim? ceilings? What kind of repairs are you talking about?


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## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi Tony,
I am refering to typical drywall repairs on repaints, mainly on walls. Usually just the ones at or around eye level, that's usually what the homeowners notice the most. I use common durabond and easysand for most repairs. 
Thanks buddy,
Jay


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## sendit6 (Sep 6, 2008)

definitely would spot prime with a roller if the walls are to be rolled.


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## pucks101 (Mar 29, 2012)

ColorQuest said:


> Hi guys,
> I have been trying out a couple new variations of spot priming repairs on the job. I am trying to achieve what all of us here want on our interior work, seamless repairs with a close texture match. Does anybody here have any tricks up their sleeves ?
> Thanks everybody
> Jay


After the repairing / filling / sanding, I like to stipple the primer with the tip of a large brush (vs. roller), only on the unpainted areas first, to help build it up a little thicker and help prevent the smoother and/or shiny spot. Then, depending on situation, I may roller a 2nd coat of primer over larger area, or may go right to paint. May be all in my head, but I think the stippling helps.


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## ColorQuest (Mar 19, 2012)

pucks101 said:


> After the repairing / filling / sanding, I like to stipple the primer with the tip of a large brush (vs. roller), only on the unpainted areas first, to help build it up a little thicker and help prevent the smoother and/or shiny spot. Then, depending on situation, I may roller a 2nd coat of primer over larger area, or may go right to paint. May be all in my head, but I think the stippling helps.


Right on Pucks,
Sometimes the simple methods like that are best. I had the idea of mixing up some durabond 20 real thin and mini rolling that on to a smooth finished patch, let it dry, prime and paint.
Thanks Bro,
Jay


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I like Duron New Construction High Build. I think the SW product may be the same with a different label now. Can be applied up to 24 mils.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> I like Duron New Construction High Build. I think the SW product may be the same with a different label now. Can be applied up to 24 mils.


SW builder's solution surfacer primer.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I've used a couple. Coronado Drywall First Coat, which can be brushed and rolled and USG Tuff Hide, which has to be sprayed. Tuff Hide isn't the product to use for repairs, but it's awesome for new drywall or large areas (i.e., ceilings after removing acoustic texture). You need a pretty big pump to move it though.


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## Builtmany (Dec 5, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> SW builder's solution surfacer primer.


Good product but only sold in 5s. Anything else high build in singles I have not seen it out there.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

If its a textured patch , I usually prime with a cheap flat paint . Whatever I have in the van . I have read somewhere . That primer sealers will sometimes will seal the patch area to much causing it to flash . Roll textures in old houses 
Are the hardest to match I think in the 12 years 
Of doing drywall repairs . I usually prime a patch 
Prior to texture . Not always if an area like a major focal point I will. Roll texture I will use diluted mud paint sand mix . Big roller naps 
Practice on separate pieces of drywall. They usually takes two applications to come out all right .


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

We are working on a repair that is killing me right now. One of my employees did the repair and I guess it did not turn out well. I went there and looked at it in the morningh (basement hallway, looking south, one window on the south in the bedroom at the end of the hallway. Well, in the morning light, it looked pretty good. Turned on the bedroom and hallway lights, still looking pretty good. It was a repair where we had to cut on a section about 3-4' high and between 2 studs to piece in drywall for the repair. I can see a little bit at the bottom of the repair, so I float that out to try to improve it a bit. Everything is looking good, sand it, paint it, let it dry. Looks great. Pack everything up, make one more trip downstairs to shut off the lights. Now, with the light from the window coming out of the bedroom directionally, then entire repair shows. In fact, before I could not see the upper 3/4 of the patch at all, now I can see the entire thing.

So, know I floated out the entire section of wall floor to ceiling, about 36" wide to try to hide the area. I do not know if it will work or not. Hallway repairs are very tough due to the angle and since the hole was too large to do a screen or other style repair, I am not sure if this will cut it.


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## kdpaint (Aug 14, 2010)

Ugh, nothing like natural light to screw things up!


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

I find that gardz works great for sealing patches and equalizing texture.

when I have a bunch of repairs on one wall I will prime the whole thing, after spot priming the patches. Sometimes it might be overkill but it reduces the chances of flashing after the finish is put on and dealing with it then.


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

I just used Gardz for the second time on some wallpaper removal after removing 3 layers of paper . It left this nasty crappy glue everywhere . 
Washed down with krud cutter . Sanded again . 
And primed with Gardz . Then primed with km 550 flat then 2 finish coats of flat 550 in a darker 
Color . Noticed the paint cracking where the Gardz didn't cover or seal in the under layer.
Not sure if I am liking the Gardz all the much 
Thinking of going back to cover stain . I might user error or something , I know I won't blow knock down texture over Gardz again without 
Putting another coat of paint first . Priming patches with Gardz too I think it would make them flash more unless you do the whole wall 
in Gardz . IMO


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

It might boil down to user preference and familiarity. I have put gardz over some pretty gnarly glue residue and it held up pretty good. 

I usually prime the whole wall with gardz if I anticipate it will be an issue.


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

TJ Paint said:


> It might boil down to user preference and familiarity. I have put gardz over some pretty gnarly glue residue and it held up pretty good.
> 
> I usually prime the whole wall with gardz if I anticipate it will be an issue.


ME too!:thumbsup:


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## ROOMINADAY (Mar 20, 2009)

DeanV said:


> So, know I floated out the entire section of wall floor to ceiling, about 36" wide to try to hide the area. I do not know if it will work or not. Hallway repairs are very tough due to the angle and since the hole was too large to do a screen or other style repair, I am not sure if this will cut it.


Did you try a tight skim the entire wall? Sometimes this is the only way to fully blend a large patch and even out all the differences on a wall with a difficult angle. A 14" knife or trowel can make a big difference as well.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

ROOMINADAY said:


> Did you try a tight skim the entire wall? Sometimes this is the only way to fully blend a large patch and even out all the differences on a wall with a difficult angle. A 14" knife or trowel can make a big difference as well.


My thoughts as well.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

To be honest, the only skim coating I have done in the past is for typical wallpaper removal stuff. Not sure how a wall like this would turn out, and the mess.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> To be honest, the only skim coating I have done in the past is for typical wallpaper removal stuff. Not sure how a wall like this would turn out, and the mess.


imo with all the trips of the employee and yours you could of floated that entire wall it but that may also be because I have not seen what you are working with or how well the initial repair was done. 3-4 feet tall and in between a couple studs sounds like an easy fix but sometimes lighting is a bitch. What kind of lighting are you using in the hall? 

Fvck it rip out the rest of the drywall to make it uniform. :jester:


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

DeanV said:


> To be honest, the only skim coating I have done in the past is for typical wallpaper removal stuff. Not sure how a wall like this would turn out, and the mess.


 Skim it out with Down with dust mud for less mess and dust control.:thumbsup:Mud has no eyes!:no:


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

It is just hard to hide those butt joints on patches sometimes. The wall is not big, so in hindsight I probably should have just floated it. This is the first time I have had to deal with real large holes in dry wall, just not something we see. If the bedroom door is closed or hallway lights are on, everything is good. We will figure it out.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> It is just hard to hide those butt joints on patches sometimes. The wall is not big, so in hindsight I probably should have just floated it. This is the first time I have had to deal with real large holes in dry wall, just not something we see. If the bedroom door is closed or hallway lights are on, everything is good. We will figure it out.


Is it a repair issue or a flashing/texture issue? If it is a repair issue then just pull the repair out about a 10-14 inches past the tape line, pull in some good lighting to make sure you are not missing anything on the sand and be done. Either way I am sure you will figure it out.


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