# Finish wrinkled and bubbled



## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

I'm working on a mahogany front door and after alot of work stripping and sanding, it was finally ready for finish. I applied two coats of Sikkens Cetol door and window (mahogany color, the door was REALLY sun bleached) and then applied a generous coat of McCloskey's spar urethane in gloss via HVLP. I went to look at it this morning, and the finish has wrinkled and bubbled. The weather here has been extremely humid the last few days, and there were several periods of rain yesterday after application (the door is on saw horses in the garage, so it was never exposed to the elements). The wrinkled finish is my fault for putting the poly on too heavy, and I know that. At this point my plan is to just wait until Monday so the finish can have time to cure, sand the problem areas with ascending grits of sand paper, and re-apply. Am I on the right track? Also, I am using a 2.0 nozzle/needle set on my HVLP right now, and I'm wondering if I should go down to a 1.5 and thin the material? I am not very experienced with HVLP as you can probably tell.


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## mpminter (Mar 21, 2011)

This is a picture of the finish...


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## Conley (Dec 6, 2010)

I use sikkens alot. 3 coats of door and widow. Some case 2 color coats and one clear. I have never topcoated it with anything other than sikkens. To use another product voids the warranty. The spar urthanes in my my neck of the woods do the bubbling thing quite often. They don't let the wood breath so any moisture behind the film will result in a bubble. I would strip it and use 3 coats of Sikkens. Brush it out.


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## mustangmike3789 (Jun 11, 2011)

i would mist/tack coat to alllow the product to penetrate, out gas and seal the surface then proceed with finish coats and follow recoat times. urethanes will set up fast in high humidity and could trap moisture or solvents in the coating or cause blisters due to solvent evaporating while coating is forming this quick film. you should wait for better conditions before trying this again.


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## OraarO (Oct 19, 2007)

Make sure any solvents in the cup are compatible with your finish. It kind of looks like water drops in oil, or vice versa.


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## DHlll (Dec 22, 2010)

*Big NO NO*

You cannot put a film forming product over a semi-permeable finish like sikkens. Sikkens is micro porous, which allows wood to breath a ebb and flow of moisture content. Think about it door-- has fluctuating moisture in it through out the year. Inside the house-- air conditioning. Outside the house---hot and dry.
When you seal with spar varnish you are trapping in the moisture. Hence all spar varnish doors eventually blister and peel. Its too rigid of a film and with trapped moisture behind it!!!!!!!! Kaaabooooom. 
Thats your schooling for today----send me a apple:thumbup:


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Conley said:


> I use sikkens alot. 3 coats of door and widow. Some case 2 color coats and one clear. I have never topcoated it with anything other than sikkens. To use another product voids the warranty. The spar urthanes in my my neck of the woods do the bubbling thing quite often. They don't let the wood breath so any moisture behind the film will result in a bubble. I would strip it and use 3 coats of Sikkens. Brush it out.


Ditto, I use Sikkens fairly often as well. When I first did, it was only after having a lengthly discussion with the company rep. He said to never top coat it. Three coats and you should be good to go. May need retreatment again in two years or so depending on exposure but better than peeling/bubbling.


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