# Shark Grip - effectiveness?



## TDTD

I have a bunch of concrete stair treads and landings to cover in a stairwell to an office (no bare feet), and I'm contemplating using SW Armorseal Treadplex 100% acrylic latex, (nice product). I want the treads to be slip resistant yet easy to clean. My rep has recommended adding Shark Grip to the Treadplex.

1 - Anyone have any experience with Shark Grip? If so, how would you rate it's effectiveness.

2 - Anyone ever sprayed Shark Grip through an airless before? The product spec sheet says the particle size is about 180 microns which is about .007 inch. Theoretically it should go through a #17 tip, shouldn't it?

Thanks,

Rob


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## Rcon

TDTD said:


> I have a bunch of concrete stair treads and landings to cover in a stairwell to an office (no bare feet), and I'm contemplating using SW Armorseal Treadplex 100% acrylic latex, (nice product). I want the treads to be slip resistant yet easy to clean. My rep has recommended adding Shark Grip to the Treadplex.
> 
> 1 - Anyone have any experience with Shark Grip? If so, how would you rate it's effectiveness.
> 
> 2 - Anyone ever sprayed Shark Grip through an airless before? The product spec sheet says the particle size is about 180 microns which is about .007 inch. Theoretically it should go through a #17 tip, shouldn't it?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rob


Never heard of the stuff before, but be sure you remove your filter before shooting it - it'll probably clog it up in no time flat. 

I'd start at a 519, maybe 521. That'd probably eat a 517 in minutes.


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## TDTD

*Shark Grip product bulletin*

Sorry, I meant to attached this link to the product technical bulletin for Shark Grip in my OP. 

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=1078740

There!

Cheers,

Rob


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## [email protected]

I've used it. Works great for that nonskid surface a HO may need or want on their porch or steps. 

I don't think a sprayer is recommended. I had it mixed in a gallon at the store then apply with a roller...


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## BC_Painter

Even if the individual particles might fit through it, I could see it clogging up almost instantaneously.

Think of salt and pepper shakers with smaller holes and you'll get my drift.

I'd also not want to destroy my tips that fast :whistling2:


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## mblosik

decent stuff; the armorseal with sharkgrip will trap more dirt and debris than just the armorseal. never sprayed it....
i believe it meets atsm standards for non-slip without the sharkgrip.


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## NACE

Shark Grip is a great aggregate. It is not angular like an aluminum silicate and not as hard therefore its anti slip characteristics are equal to AS but since its rounder it cleans better. Broadcast in a wet coating and encapsulate with a second coat wet on wet is best.


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## TDTD

*Application?*



NACE said:


> Shark Grip is a great aggregate. It is not angular like an aluminum silicate and not as hard therefore its anti slip characteristics are equal to AS but since its rounder it cleans better. Broadcast in a wet coating and encapsulate with a second coat wet on wet is best.


How would you broadcast this product? The material I saw at the wholesaler was about the consistency of all purpose flour. The manufacturer suggests mixing into the coating at a rate of 16oz / 5gal. Follow the link in my last post.

Maybe a different product you're referring to?

Rob


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## NACE

I use a Scotts Grass Seed Hand Spreader. I like suspending aggregate on top of a coating rather than suspending it through out the film. I find that in 100% Solids it settles and becomes useless, therefore I broadcast and back roll to encapsulate. In your case, the TDS technique will be fine since you are using a different viscosity product. I do mostly 100% Solids but just finished 5000 sq ft of solvent based polyamide epoxy. No broadcast or anti-slip as it is a animal shelter and Parvo is their main concern. Sorry for the confusion.


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## straight_lines

I have used it with great success as well on concrete and wood.


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## TheRogueBristle

I have used Shark Grip on treads with urethane modified paint, mixed in an applied with brush/roller. I thought it worked great, reasonable price, effective and easy to use. 

Definitely would not spray it though. If spraying the paint is the most efficient, maybe broadcasting is the best method, as suggested.


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## Floorgal

In some parts of the country it's called "shark skin". When the right amount and grade of the polymer aggregate is added to a can of blended concrete floor coating, it stays suspended -- as opposed to traditional aluminum oxide, which tends to sink (and requires broadcasting). It's intended for roller application. It works well, applies evenly. Doesn't usually require additional topcoats to hold it in (again, provided it's the right size for the mil thickness you're applying). Learn more about it here: http://www.florock.net/blog/2010/09/23/laurel-hardy-on-epoxy-floors 

Good luck!


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## TDTD

Floorgal said:


> In some parts of the country it's called "shark skin". When the right amount and grade of the polymer aggregate is added to a can of blended concrete floor coating, it stays suspended -- as opposed to traditional aluminum oxide, which tends to sink (and requires broadcasting). It's intended for roller application. It works well, applies evenly. Doesn't usually require additional topcoats to hold it in (again, provided it's the right size for the mil thickness you're applying). Learn more about it here: http://www.florock.net/blog/2010/09/23/laurel-hardy-on-epoxy-floors
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks for the additional info Floorgal.

I never did get around to doing this job. The client changed their mind and killed the project. Oh well, I have the info for the next time it comes up.

Thanks everyone for your input.


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## johnpaint

You can also get walnut shells in any grind you want.


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## DCcenter

Skid Tex is another great additive from Zinsser. 

But I would just use Benjamin Moore Anti-Slip Latex Coating (M55). The product stands up great to foot traffic. Has an epoxy modified acrylic resin. Also contains chopped up fiberglass for film building so it doesnt break down like some additives do. We've all see those floors that hand a sand additive sprinkled on them at one time, but now they are probably more slippery than just normal tread paint. I havent seen anything better, or any combination of products better for anti-slip. The only downfall, and it can be a deal breaker, is that it only comes in a couple of ready made colors. Of course at other times, thats a major bonus (better solid content, better color properties, can be returned if unused, etc)


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