# Home Owner Silicone caulking hell



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Went to a house to look it over for an estimate this morning and the homeowner or SOMEONE went over the whole house and put silicone caulking over the entire thing. Nail holes, seams... you name it. 

I was able to scrape it off with my fingernails on a spot pretty easily.. must be kinda old. It sure does look it. 

Anyways, thought of two different approaches.

1. mini wire brush and take it off.. would take time though..

2. going over the silicone with a siliconized latex caulk (paintable).

In this situation what would you do? I am not too excited about the silicone being on there... and will have to think of some clause to put in contract for failed paint spots along any siliconed area.. 

Thoughts? Suggestions?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

If it isn't all "glumpy", you can go over with an oil based primer, do a test spot to make sure it does not seperate. (says Rob)


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## PeteL (Apr 27, 2009)

Run...far n fast
Putting a clause in will tell the judge you knew it wouldn't work.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

yup, run from everything that isnt a piece of cake job or that you won't make piles of money and def run is the home owner isnt absolutely perfect.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

that's a tough one- I feel for you. WHY, WHY, WHY do so many people do this in their homes? I guess they are misinformed, but they should really specify on the labels that silicone is not paintable!!!

I would rip it all out under a T & M condition only. Some of the stable stuff you might be able to do what RCP said, or what you said and run some caulking on top of it. Just test it 1st I guess. I did this on a kitchen backsplash; the silicone was so hard core in there that it wasn't coming out easily, not even with the aid of a heat gun. But there was still a small channel that was perfect for running a thick bead of caulk on top. I had no problems once the caulk was dry the next day.

good luck man


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

let me get some pics up. Chris what kind of oil does he suggest?


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Kilz or any bonding primer


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> that's a tough one- I feel for you. WHY, WHY, WHY do so many people do this in their homes? I guess they are misinformed, but they should really specify on the labels that silicone is not paintable!!!
> 
> I would rip it all out under a T & M condition only. Some of the stable stuff you might be able to do what RCP said, or what you said and run some caulking on top of it. Just test it 1st I guess. I did this on a kitchen backsplash; the silicone was so hard core in there that it wasn't coming out easily, not even with the aid of a heat gun. But there was still a small channel that was perfect for running a thick bead of caulk on top. I had no problems once the caulk was dry the next day.
> 
> good luck man


I'll tell you why. Cause the guy at home depot says to do it. I actually got that response from a home owner once.. why you ask would they do such a stupid thing? Cause. It saves em money. They don't have to repaint the caulk once they put that silicone on. It is invisible. :no:

I know from the automotive world that silicone is actually not going to do squat with heat. Intercooler tubing couplers, heat wraps for spark plug wires, and wire protectors for O2 wires are all made from silicone. It smiles at you when you hit it with heat. :blink: :laughing: I want to say that some head gaskets also have a fine bead of silicone on them (some do or did).

There was a home (first I ever painting professionally for myself) that a homeowner went around and arm length high did all seams and nail holes around the entire house.  I went over that will siliconized caulking and didn't have any worries with it. That is why I made sure to scuff the surface of the silicone with my fingernail to see how solid it was. It just kinda crumbled apart.

Para.. what kind of caulking did you use?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

okay we're going to see if photobucket is acting any better today.. brb


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

right above is an area that I scuffed up with my fingernail. Pics are not the greatest, this camera is on it's last leg


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

are you 100% that's silicone? did you actually see something bead off of it?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

yeah I scratched it and it "crumbled" not tear or rip or come off in a chunk. Plus it had that "oily" feel to it.

edit: you see the fingerpints on the concrete from when the put it on? I know it is.. but it is literally EVERYWHERE.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Silicone crumble?? hmmm must be real old..


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

yep. I wonder if he paid someone to do that to his house a couple (4) or so years ago. This house needs painting pretty bad.


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

Silicone is one thing that is guaranteed to get me into a long tirade/oratory over. 
They should license use of the stuff with a big hard test. One question.
If something that you are going to caulk will ever get paint in the next 1000 years, should you use sillycone? :no:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I wonder if anyone has ever told him about the problem. I will find out soon enough. I wonder if mek would knock that stuff out.. then again I may be asking for trouble if it does.


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## JNLP (Dec 13, 2007)

Wipe with spirits and hit it with 2 thin coats of oil primer or alcohol with 2 coats of shellac. That's what the internet told me, but yeah I was thinking oil prime too.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Okay. Just got off the phone with him. He says he did it himself last year.. He said he used "paintable" silicone caulking DAP brand  :laughing: I warned him that there was going to have to be some special prep work done to ensure that the paint will stay put on all the caulking. He just said "oh". :laughing: BUT wants the deck stained, wants the fence stained also :thumbsup: Deck has a solid stain on it, told him would need to use a stripper and a brightner on it. Said he wants to go with a transparent or semi transparent stain.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

The problem with that stuff is, if you scrape it off there is a that residue that you have to get off.Sometimes it better if it is real old not to touch it just paint over.You can also add painters caulk over the top.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Yeah. I will make some calls tomorrow and see what kind of products/proceedures a couple of the reps say to use on it also. See if they have a specific primer for it and the costs involved in all of it. Figure out what the cost will be so I can get the guy his estimate.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

nEighter said:


> I'll tell you why. Cause the guy at home depot says to do it. I actually got that response from a home owner once.. why you ask would they do such a stupid thing? Cause. It saves em money. They don't have to repaint the caulk once they put that silicone on. It is invisible. :no:
> 
> Para.. what kind of caulking did you use?


Big Stretch. But, my project was an interior job. I wouldn't think it would matter too much though if there are some spots that would ideally take a fresh bead of caulk over the silicone. However, I'd lean more towards spot priming with oil- 'cause you can get a spray can since it's ext.

Sounds like you'll be busy there with the fence and deck on top of the other stuff. :thumbsup:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Man bro, I have been racking my brain for some sort of solution but am stumped. Sometimes HO's do something so terrible to their homes that I cannot do anything more than laugh and point at them.
Of course I already have decided that I am not going to bid the job first.
Do the fence and the deck, then call him up after you cash the check (at _his_ bank) then point and laugh over the phone.

That guy even got up to the _peaks_ with his madness!!! He must have had something pretty stressful on his mind that he needed to work out if he actually went up there.
Was he getting divorced?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

LOL no, he said "I used a couple tubes"







YEAH RIGHT!!! Oh and from ground level







yeah okay. 

Brings me to my next question.. why do they deny things they do? Like Uh I don't know that got there!??! LOL ya it is a natural phenomena like cats and dogs raining from the sky.. or pigs flyiing.. these things just happen!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

ParagonVA said:


> Big Stretch. But, my project was an interior job. I wouldn't think it would matter too much though if there are some spots that would ideally take a fresh bead of caulk over the silicone. However, I'd lean more towards spot priming with oil- 'cause you can get a spray can since it's ext.
> 
> Sounds like you'll be busy there with the fence and deck on top of the other stuff. :thumbsup:



that is alot of $5.00 cans man. I think I will be better off getting a couple gallons of primer and whipping out the miniroller and extension pole... I don't know. I may call up a rep for lunch  and see what they have to say bout it.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

nEighter said:


> that is alot of $5.00 cans man. I think I will be better off getting a couple gallons of primer and whipping out the miniroller and extension pole... I don't know. I may call up a rep for lunch  and see what they have to say bout it.


oops- didn't pay close enough attn. to your pics. Yeah, your index finger would fall off from spraying those cans all day too :blink:. The miniroller sounds like a good bet, that primer always splatters everywhere though.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

sure. I was redoing the interior of my mustang and was using factory matched lacquer spray cans. A couple were REALLY tough to spray. I honestly messed up my right index finger from them. I still to this day (that was 01') cannot fully rest my index finger of my right hand against the inside of my finger, curl it to have it touch it's self like grabbing something with just it. I think I damaged my tendons or something :no: one of the most stupid injuries I have ever had.


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

You could always ask the HO for the tube of caulk he used. This will ensure what your working with. 

My first thought about the silicone caulk was kiltz oil primer (in a can). used it all the time when I used to.... oh man... hate to even think of it.... yeah, paint apartments....  

I'm jealous! A strip and staining deck job... I seriously need to advertise more deck restoration.... I love them! 

Good luck with it. Cross the T's and dot the I's.... Measure twice, cut once! :blink::thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

nEighter said:


> that is alot of $5.00 cans man. I think I will be better off getting a couple gallons of primer and whipping out the miniroller and extension pole... I don't know. I may call up a rep for lunch  and see what they have to say bout it.



Ah heck with the weenie roller... may as well spray and backroll that primer on, after all your dealing with T111 anyways...


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Ah heck with the weenie roller... may as well spray and backroll that primer on, after all your dealing with T111 anyways...


Friggin' backbone of the midwest that [email protected] is. 
When I moved here I got a headache when I scoped out the area and all I saw were T111 sides and back with stucco front, or Masonite ribbed with bats...

ugh.

Made me miss the 100% stucco homes in Florida...sort of.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

If I am not mistaken, that is a T111 knock off from LP looks like smart side its nice to coat as alot of places here have switch to that instead of using pine or fir T111


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

wow that is quite the HO blunder there. What was the plan? Caulk needs to be painted to last . . .

But now he has to pay you to fix it and that means more work for you. I say do the home too, full oil prime will be more timely than spot probably plus you get a full prime on there. Have fun . . .


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> You could always ask the HO for the tube of caulk he used. This will ensure what your working with.
> 
> My first thought about the silicone caulk was kiltz oil primer (in a can). used it all the time when I used to.... oh man... hate to even think of it.... yeah, paint apartments....
> 
> ...





[email protected] said:


> Ah heck with the weenie roller... may as well spray and backroll that primer on, after all your dealing with T111 anyways...


yep those cans remind me of apartment hell also  I will do my best with it. It is on the corner of a cul de sac that is butted up to a major road.. major exposure, and the area is fairly new (last 6yrs or newer) I was thinking the same thing actually, getting a smaller tip and having at it with the primer. I am sure it would go way quicker that way. only thing is there would be more ladder time and more primer needed... still don't know.



WisePainter said:


> Friggin' backbone of the midwest that [email protected] is.
> When I moved here I got a headache when I scoped out the area and all I saw were T111 sides and back with stucco front, or Masonite ribbed with bats...
> 
> ugh.
> ...





MAK-Deco said:


> If I am not mistaken, that is a T111 knock off from LP looks like smart side its nice to coat as alot of places here have switch to that instead of using pine or fir T111


I don't mind the T1-11. I like it way better than the masonite siding and batts. what do you do when the masonite is all swollen around the bottom or where water was trapped behind the batts? Noone wants to replace the board so what do you do? Nothing. And your new paint job looks like hell.



tsunamicontract said:


> wow that is quite the HO blunder there. *What was the plan? Caulk needs to be painted to last *. . .
> 
> But now he has to pay you to fix it and that means more work for you. I say do the home too, full oil prime will be more timely than spot probably plus you get a full prime on there. Have fun . . .


:laughing: yeah man probably! LOL yeah I am going back over there tomorrow and check it out again. I am going to take a wire brush with me to try to see how good that stuff is actually stuck down. If he went over dirt and grime and all, which I know he did.. it shouldn't have adhered to the surface that well.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

MAK said:


> are you 100% that's silicone? did you actually see something bead off of it?


I agree. It looks like it was caulked after paint.


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## zerowned (Jul 23, 2008)

nEighter said:


> LOL no, he said "I used a couple tubes"
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I hate to bring us to a human level again BUT - we have ALL done stupid things like this once or twice in our lives, and we all deny it, so when you ask "why do deny things" its because they are embarrassed of the mistakes they've made, you just have to think back to stupid things we have done and denied. 

with that said, man that sucks, torch it and get the interior on an insurance restorations bid along with your fence and deck!


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

Is it masonite or T1-11? I do know peelbond was developed with T1-11 in mind and sticks like he!!, might be an option but its pretty pricey. Nice to paint over though. I bet that caulk is going to stick just to piss you off. But not everywhere because it wouldnt be any fun if you didnt have to check every last area.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

zerowned said:


> I hate to bring us to a human level again BUT - we have ALL done stupid things like this once or twice in our lives, and we all deny it, so when you ask "why do deny things" its because they are embarrassed of the mistakes they've made, you just have to think back to stupid things we have done and denied.
> 
> with that said, man that sucks, torch it and get the interior on an insurance restorations bid along with your fence and deck!


 I know man but it was funny :laughing: naaaaaahh.. It just needs some TLC. I will tell him to never use that stuff again though.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

tsunamicontract said:


> Is it masonite or T1-11? I do know peelbond was developed with T1-11 in mind and sticks like he!!, might be an option but its pretty pricey. Nice to paint over though. I bet that caulk is going to stick just to piss you off. But not everywhere because it wouldnt be any fun if you didnt have to check every last area.



so very true man. I forgot about peel bond. Xpeel I think is another brand. I will ask about that tomorrow. And yes it will be a beotch indeed. I hope he wants me to do it, if not I think I will still be okay  LOL

Oh here is the front:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

does that not look like there is cracking in the stucco?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

bwahahahahaaaahahahaha!!!! :lol:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

At least he is incorporating the spam into his helpful painting post...I think. 
WTH is going on there anyways?!??


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

going to the house right now. Taking a wire brush and some gripper primer with me. Gunna see if it comes off, and also going to see if the gripper covers it like it should.


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Go get you some insanity!

Stay dry man.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Okay got back from house and this is what I came up with.

The caulking is "softish" kinda like gum. It is sticky and you can remove it fairly easy. as you can see in the next couple pics:





































Area cleared off by my fingernail. See the balled up or flaky caulking?










I put a dab of Gripper primer on my finger and put some over the caulking. I noticed right away that even the gripper wasn't able to cover the caulking. There were areas that it is super thin, that the caulking is repelling the paint. Paintable huh?!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

notice the thin spots? All the raised areas?










the streaks that were in the primer (raised peaks wouldn't hold paint)










and after the paint was dry to the touch (gripper dries really fast) I was able to easily peel the paint off.











Called a paint rep up and told the story. They told me no go on anything it must come off, and that yes, it is 100% silicone. She gave me DAP's # and I called.

DAP said.. yep it is 100%. Nope, no primer of any type will do it must come out/off. There is a product called Silicone be gone that sales at Lowe's and it is expensive from what I hear, and the lady said that it is the only thing that will get rid of the silicone acid.


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

I've used silicone remover. It does work well but it might work out expensive if you've got a lot to remove.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I am just going to have to spend some time talking to the homeowner and let him know.. don't know what else to do at this point. Good to know TU :thumbsup:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

May have to mechanically separate it like a chicken at a Tyson processing plant...


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I know


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

nEighter said:


> I know


Are you sad because you are pretty sure the HO won't go for the price you *have* to bid it at, or is it the labor required?

BTW I would love to help you with that, but I am busy that week.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

LOL that week huh? Yeah I don't think he is going to go with the recommendation of removal. He already backpedaled on it being paintable.


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## Rick the painter (Mar 30, 2009)

There is an aweful lot of hours there! Be careful!


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

nEighter said:


> LOL that week huh? Yeah I don't think he is going to go with the recommendation of removal. He already backpedaled on it being paintable.


yup, lol.
It is time to use the words "ruined" and "big problem" when speaking with this person again.

You could always insult the home until he is so embarrassed to live in it that he pays anything to make it look better. 

Or:

Tell him you were stopped by a neighbor on the way out and they mentioned the word "lawsuit" for his eyesore ruining their property value.
*
Always* works for me.

:thumbup:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Rick the painter said:


> There is an aweful lot of hours there! Be careful!


Yeah. I am going to explain to him my findings and let him know the right way to do it. Do the house this year, and the deck and fence next. BUT I just have this feeling that he is going to want to hire a hack to just shoot and go. Make it purdy. 



WisePainter said:


> yup, lol.
> It is time to use the words "ruined" and "big problem" when speaking with this person again.
> 
> You could always insult the home until he is so embarrassed to live in it that he pays anything to make it look better.
> ...


Think the way I need to approach this is by just letting him know what I am willing to do, if he is not willing to do it the right way, then I will just walk, or tell him I will do his deck and fence but not the house.

I may even say I contacted my insurance company about the silicone and they have a writter in there about not covering any areas (exterior) that have silicone on them, unless removed. That might be the smartest approach.. a stretch, yes, but I don't think they would mind me looking out for the possibilities of future claims..:whistling2:


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## WisePainter (Dec 27, 2008)

Or you could say that you contacted your insurance company about the silicone and they have a writter in there about not covering any areas (exterior) that have silicone on them, unless removed. That might be the smartest approach...


:thumbsup:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I am thinking there is probably $1500.00 just for time taking that off. http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00017116001.pdf < man that stuff doesn't even fit the mold on wood. IT is for concrete, chrome, porcelain... 


OH and the lady at DAP said silicone caulking is good to about 400deg F.


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## PeteL (Apr 27, 2009)

nEighter said:


> notice the thin spots? All the raised areas?
> the streaks that were in the primer (raised peaks wouldn't hold paint)
> and after the paint was dry to the touch (gripper dries really fast) I was able to easily peel the paint off.
> Called a paint rep up and told the story. They told me no go on anything it must come off, and that yes, it is 100% silicone. She gave me DAP's # and I called.
> DAP said.. yep it is 100%. Nope, no primer of any type will do it must come out/off. There is a product called Silicone be gone that sales at Lowe's and it is expensive from what I hear, and the lady said that it is the only thing that will get rid of the silicone acid.


And that is why I said run far and fast. You will never get it all off. Enough to make it look good for a short while maybe but, do you really want your reputation at stake over a HO's blunder?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

nope. And it sticks out BAD. like the sore thumb at the end of the block.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Just thinking of what I could use to take it off. 










I think would be the best thing I could use for the physical act of taking it off..


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Encapsulate it with 30 mils of elastomeric. No warranty.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

:laughing: I was wondering about elastomeric. I am going to get ahold of a NACE guy I am kinda cool with from SW. See if he can recommend anything.


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## Gjorda (Apr 28, 2009)

Good luck man. My advice has been posted before, but I'll post it again. Run away, unless you get a time and material contract and HO is cool with it. I have used another caulk to cover silicone up before...Volcom...I think that is how it is spelled. However, I had to scrape off as much of the silicone as I could and then put the volcum over it. But if that stuff is all over the house...


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

just trying to get all the options I can on it to give to him. He may pay me to do it right. I don't know. We will see. I do have a feeling though he will hire someone who cares less about what they are painting and more concerned about getting any money at all.

I appreciate your comments man


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## dustyrose (Apr 19, 2009)

Give the HO this option: Vinyl siding 

It is probably his best option. He made a huge error applying silocone all over over his house. There is no way that you can remove all of the silocone. Your pretty paint job will look horrible a year from now. How can you offer a guarantee on this project? 

It's going to cost a small fortune to have you remove what calk you can but theres risk. He might as well spend a couple more grand to have it sided and remove all worries.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

You know, I am wondering if he has been told this in the past. Silicone. Nasty damn stuff. Thanks Dusty.


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## flowjo (Apr 25, 2009)

ya that job is loads of work ask him if hed be interested in paying you by the hour sometimes i do jobs liek that especially in scenarios where i really dont know off the top of my head how many hours something will take. but if it scrapes off easy then its really not that bad. i mean if it takes u a full week thats all good man i would charge 2000 probably.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

I was thinking $1500.00 on the light side *if everything went good*. That pic of the trim to body.. the silicone is soo thick along these major joints!! About 3/8-1/4" thick right there! AND TOUGH!


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Vinyl siding would look real good about now.


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

Wolfgang said:


> Vinyl siding would look real good about now.


uh.....after seeing those pics, yeah. At least do a cost comparison. Not sure if nEighter can make a profit off of a vinyl siding sale, but all problems would be solved. All the HO would need is powerwashing maintenance thereafter.

good luck man.
-jt


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

If I had the chance to bid on it then I would go for it. I would tell the H/O that I wouldn't do it unless I was given the opportunity to get it put right once and for all.

Aim high with your price to make the job worth while doing. If you get it then do the job right. Scrape off what you can and remove residue's stubborn stuff with silicon remover. Wash/scrape/sand/fill/caulk/prime, give it the full works and leave a job to be proud of.

Leave a happy customer and give them a sense of getting great value for their money.

If they say the price is too high then tough on them. Somebody else will come along with a low bid and they'll be in the same boat again in the very near future.

If I get jobs that look like they're going to be a PITA to do then I always aim high with the price. The job doesn't seem anywhere near as bad when there's a nice fat pay check to look forward to :thumbsup:

Oh, and if it's going to take a while to do then take interim payments


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## flowjo (Apr 25, 2009)

ya if hes not willing to pay you exactly what the labor is worth walk man walk away does the ho even realize what a disaster he made, also is he a friend of a friends or related or something??


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## capitalcity painting (Apr 28, 2008)

I would remove as much as possible and then go over it with Shermax. I would also use the white Shermax so that you can be sure where youve been and what needs to be done. Then I would use Duration for the top coat as it seems to encapsulate the surface more then just stick to it. So even if it didnt stick to that spot it may stay because its molded over top of it.


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Update?


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

RCP said:


> Update?


I'm sure he's still on the job.Many years after we are gone that stuff will still be in good shape, still doing no good at all.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

no word yet on what he plans to do. I need to give him a call to prod him along in some way or another.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Well it seems that the customer had already choosen who to go through.. The company that pays their people half, and makes them pay for their own paint going through Porter paints.. guess what the job went for? $4100.00 that is staining the deck, fence, and painting the house. They just caulked over the silicone. WOW.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

stopped reading after 3rd page but why not just do a full alkyd prime (tinted) No big deal


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2008)

nEighter said:


> Well it seems that the customer had already choosen who to go through.. The company that pays their people half, and makes them pay for their own paint going through Porter paints.. guess what the job went for? $4100.00 that is staining the deck, fence, and painting the house. They just caulked over the silicone. WOW.


Now that's a steal! 

That's one of them jobs I would have been glad to let another win the bid on or the bid would have been high enough to make it worth it if I landed it.

But wow... the deck and fence too???? sheeeesh...


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

aaron61 said:


> stopped reading after 3rd page but why not just do a full alkyd prime (tinted) No big deal


not interested in coming back and repainting for free.. and again.. and again..



[email protected] said:


> Now that's a steal!
> 
> That's one of them jobs I would have been glad to let another win the bid on or the bid would have been high enough to make it worth it if I landed it.
> 
> *But wow... the deck and fence too????* sheeeesh...



I am telling you..


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

*Well I dodged a BIG bullet on this one.* The owner is holding off pay cause he doesn't like the color (he chose and signed off on) for the fence.. and hasn't chose what to do on the deck yet.. so the guys painting it haven't been paid yet.. he wants them to strip the fence and restain it their cost :no:


:notworthy:*thank god!!!!*


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## TooledUp (May 17, 2008)

Hearing things like that really cushion the blow on losing the job :thumbsup:


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Yes it does, but really with this job I was glad I didn't get it. But I got that flaky feeling from him not returning my calls and just his general attitude about the caulking situation. So in the end I am glad it wasn't me!


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Probably better off not getting it!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

:nice: yep!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Thought you would like to know.. the owner won't pay for the job. The company came out and saw what was needed for the deck, shot the guy a new price for the deck, and he refused to pay. The guys working on it never got paid a dime, paid for all the material and are just azz'd out on the whole thing.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

wow, yah thats bad. A couple lost hours of your time is a lot better than dealing with that mess and not getting paid!


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

yeah. I know the guys who did it, they MAY help me on some work, they quit the company that sold the paint job.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

What is the company going to do about this situation? Are the workers not getting paid?


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Workers "sub contractors for this company" are azz'd out on material cost.. AND labor too. The company is not paying them since they didn't get paid on the job.. ridiculous. That is only 1 reason I will not sub for a company.


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## capitalcity painting (Apr 28, 2008)

nEighter said:


> Workers "sub contractors for this company" are azz'd out on material cost.. AND labor too. The company is not paying them since they didn't get paid on the job.. ridiculous. That is only 1 reason I will not sub for a company.


there maybe more to it then what they are telling you, I dont know if I would hire them or not. Every guy Ive been around that has a sob story about being screwed is usually the guy thats screwing somone.


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## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

Don't think I haven't thought about this..


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