# BIN Synthetic Shellac Primer



## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Have a job coming up with a fair amount of cigarette smoke damage. Thinking of using this in place of the real stuff or oil based primer. Anyone used it yet? Thoughts?


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Jmays did a great review thread/comparison on it a while back. I'll see if I can find it.

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/product-review-bin-advanced-synthetic-shellac-40818/


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## RH (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for the link Bill - very helpful. I tried the PT search function but... 

Obviously I should have tried through Google.

The product appears to be a good one. The lack of extreme odor us a big plus over the oil primers, shellac primers, and even SW's synthetic.


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## Brian C (Oct 8, 2011)

we use that product a lot and its wonderful, but it has fumes.


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## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

I really liked the bin 2. Covered great, dried fast, no bonding issues, not a lot of smell either.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Anyone tried it for nicotine stains/odors?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

I used it on 1 home last year with pretty heavy nicotine. It worked well. I've also used Kilz Max on a whole home with lots of nicotine and found that to work just as well. As you know, cleaning the walls before-hand is more than half the battle. 

I know that they caution using BIN Advanced in rooms subject to high humidity, much like they caution using regular BIN, which leads me to believe that BIN might be an all-around superior vapor barrier than Kilz Max, since nothing on Kilz Max tech sheets cautions using in rooms with high humidity. This is all speculation, since I'm not even sure if vapor barrier equates to odor barrier.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

stelzerpaintinginc. said:


> I used it on 1 home last year with pretty heavy nicotine. It worked well. I've also used Kilz Max on a whole home with lots of nicotine and found that to work just as well. As you know, cleaning the walls before-hand is more than half the battle.
> 
> I know that they caution using BIN Advanced in rooms subject to high humidity, much like they caution using regular BIN, which leads me to believe that BIN might be an all-around superior vapor barrier than Kilz Max, since nothing on Kilz Max tech sheets cautions using in rooms with high humidity. This is all speculation, since I'm not even sure if vapor barrier equates to odor barrier.


Do you prefer one over the other for stain blocking? 

On a side note about about regular BIN. I have one rep who recommends not waiting too long to topcoat BIN, around to 1 hr. is ideal. He says for adhesion because it drys hard, fast. He is probably the best rep I have with 30 years in the business. But this is something I've not heard from any other source. Ever heard this before?


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

PRC said:


> Do you prefer one over the other for stain blocking?
> 
> On a side note about about regular BIN. I have one rep who recommends not waiting too long to topcoat BIN, around to 1 hr. is ideal. He says for adhesion because it drys hard, fast. He is probably the best rep I have with 30 years in the business. But this is something I've not heard from any other source. Ever heard this before?


I'd lean towards BIN Advanced for pure stain-blocking power over Kilz Max. I always carry rattle cans of BIN Shellac for stubborn stains anyways. 

No, never heard of re-coating within approx 1 hr for regular BIN. Maybe someone with a more technical background could respond to confirm/deny whether or not regular BIN would continue to harden beyond what's considered ideal if not coated over with about an hour. I'm not qualified to say what's ideal, only that I've waited next day hundreds of times without incident.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

journeymanPainter said:


> I really liked the bin 2. Covered great, dried fast, no bonding issues, not a lot of smell either.


This is interesting to hear. The staff at my local paint shop said they've heard people in the industry commenting that it actually performs better than regular BIN which I really found hard to believe.

A couple of guys on here at one point said it was garbage. I haven't put much faith in soy based products since I tried the soy based thinner which didn't work whatsoever.

Maybe I should give the BIN 2 a try.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

Its a nice product but twice I have shot it over stained oak cabinets and both times yellowing showed through. I did not top coat to see if it held, did not want to chance it. Just spot primed with real BIN aerosol.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

*Water-Based Primer/Sealer vs. Shellac*



MikeCalifornia said:


> Its a nice product but twice I have shot it over stained oak cabinets and both times yellowing showed through. I did not top coat to see if it held, did not want to chance it. Just spot primed with real BIN aerosol.


I fully understand what you're saying, many of the water-based primers will have stains migrate, but they'll still lock & seal them from bleeding through the finish. If I saw yellowing on a large scale, I'd let the 1st coat of primer dry fully, then re-prime. This solves 80% of all issues with bleeding. The other 20% is for shellac. Only common exceptions for me are redwood & cedar, in which case, I'm not messing around with water-based primers/sealers at all.


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## Boco (May 18, 2013)

I have had a lot of luck with Smart Prime on drywall for nicotine and smoke. Water spots need another coat but it dries fast and has a low odor.


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