# Camaru Wood



## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

*I have a barn that had camaru installed in all stalls and walkways. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this species of wood( it's also called brazallian teak). The owners of the barn want a protective coating, the builder rec. using a sikkens product, do they make a varnish or poly???*


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

The Penofin brown label is really good on woods like this.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

*Hardwood Finish*


99% ultraviolet protection
Formulated for all fine hardwoods
Deeply penetrates dense hardwood fibers
Natural, transparent tone


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I painted New Belgium Brewery with Penofin:thumbsup:


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Sikkens is going to give you good protection. They do not make a poly or varnish. They do make a clear coat called BL Interior & also an exterior clear called Cetol Door and Window. I think the door and window product will be too soft to use as you say you need to.

If you are just looking for a protective coat, you may try SRD Translucent. It's an easy 1 coat app and it won't form a film so there is nothing to peel over time. It is similar to Penofin's penetrating stain.


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

Well thanks guys for your input, i do need something strong enough to withstand horses kicking.. The product the builder rec. is cetol bl interior clear, isn't that a waterbourne poly??


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

dincao said:


> Well thanks guys for your input, i do need something strong enough to withstand horses kicking.. The product the builder rec. is cetol bl interior clear, isn't that a waterbourne poly??


yes cetol bl is waterbourne - its a acrylic urethane


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Is the barn heated and cooled in the winter and summer? If not, I might be concerned about extreme temp changes with an interior acrylic.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

PinnacleResidential said:


> Is the barn heated and cooled in the winter and summer? If not, I might be concerned about extreme temp changes with an interior acrylic.


my thoughts also, I would use Penofin or Sikkens


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## johnisimpson (Oct 5, 2007)

sikkens srd if they want sikkens. cumaru is very very similar to ipe. 

here's cumaru with Pittsburgh's hardwood oil


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Daniel

We just finished a horse barn. First, make sure they understand that no finish will really withstand horse kicking. Horses also have a tendency to chew, rub and urinate on things, which is unusual wear and tear that we can't warranty. 

On our barn project, we ran into an interesting problem. We had HVLP sprayed a large quantity of steel stable gates and walls installed over short wooden walls. We used BM Ironclad oil. Within two weeks I was called back in because the paint was "running right off the steel", which I found rather hard to believe. On inspection, the homeowner had conveniently located salt licks right next to the steel, so the horses would slobber away on them and drool all over the steel, and the sodium acted as a really effective paint stripper and steel ruster. We moved the salt licks, cleaned, sanded and repainted the affected areas (not warranty). It is amazing how messy horses are in stalls. Make sure that whatever you use can be hosed down and cleaned. When we first painted the barn, the homeowner wanted to leave the wood walls unfinished. Within just a few weeks they now want us to clean and sand and apply a washable finish. Let me know what you use and how it works...tough application.


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## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

dincao said:


> Well thanks guys for your input, i do need something strong enough to withstand horses kicking..


 
Well, it won't be stained wood. They should have put down concrete.


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

The barn has just been built and will be heated and cooled. If this was a deck or exterior surface then i would probably go for the Sikkens Srd or penofin, but because they want something that can be cleaned i think that the cetol bl would be suitable with the understanding that maintenace coats would be necessary.. I haven't been able to locate anyone who carries the interior line of sikkens in my area , but a store located in ct has it and i will test on monday...Vermont thats good to know and i will address those issues with the mgr. and owner...John the cumaru deck looks great!!!
If anyone else has rec. for another product let me know, i'm open to all suggestions!!!


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

the walls of the stable have camaru, the floors are concrete with mats..


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Again, I would advise against interior stain because of the comment on how dirty horses are and how the area will have to be hosed down occasionally. I would go as far as to say try Sikkens Log and Siding. Maintenance coats are easy with Sikkens Cetol maintenance stain and it will leave a satin finish that will easily hose off. Cetol 1 or 23 would probably also work. SRD would hose down but not as well.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Then again, I haven't stained a stable before. I have, however, applied Sikkens to over 100 clients homes and I just finished a log home interior using BL. Good product, but I wouldn't trust it in such a demanding app.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

dincao said:


> If anyone else has rec. for another product let me know, i'm open to all suggestions!!!


I would be sure to use exterior grade products on anything in the barn.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

Me too.


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## johnisimpson (Oct 5, 2007)

What about using a counter top/butcher block oil? Something like mineral or tung oil? Just trying to think outside the box a little on this one but it makes sense to me to use a penetrating oil like Sikkens SRD or Ready Seal or mineral or tung oil. 

A penetrating oil should withstand horse kicking better than anything else, I think but because of the added wear, I would want something that touches up seamlessly. Ready Seal I know has this benefit and I think the counter top type oils do as well. Can anyone confirm that SRD will as well? 

I would opt away from anything that builds a film finish.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

SRD won't touch up well. The only way to do it is to try to put a little bit on the area that needs touch up and then wipe it right off after 10 minutes or so. Even then, SRD always wants to create a heavy sheen with touch-up coats.


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## PinnacleResidential (Aug 10, 2008)

I actually think something like log and siding would touch up better but it will form a film and have to be maintained.


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

I spoke to a represenative from sikkens today, he told me that he would not rec. using an exterior product for this application..He is worried about the mildicides and fungicides in the ext. products and the what could possibly happen to the horses!!! He also doesn't think the cetol bl interior clear will work either...Since it is heated he says it could work but will not gaurantee application!!! In order for this product to work it needs 3-4 coats..Does anyone have any other ideas?????


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

dincao said:


> I spoke to a represenative from sikkens today, he told me that he would not rec. using an exterior product for this application..He is worried about the mildicides and fungicides in the ext. products and the what could possibly happen to the horses!!! He also doesn't think the cetol bl interior clear will work either...Since it is heated he says it could work but will not gaurantee application!!! In order for this product to work it needs 3-4 coats..Does anyone have any other ideas?????


So it sounds like you need a really badass interior clear that won't be too hazardous to the horses...I would check out Zar Ultramax OMU and do several coats.


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## johnisimpson (Oct 5, 2007)

I've used Flood Pro Supreme Performance on cumaru before and it has lasted well on exterior decks and is safe for interior work (water based). I hate working with it. It's very gummy and I throw away every brush that touches it but so far it is standing the test of time on exterior applications. I'll get some current pictures for you tomorrow of one of the decks that we did august of '07 with it. 

Since it's inside though, what is the stain needed for? The cumaru won't be degraded by sunlight so it shouldn't gray. What are they wanting the stain to accomplish? Do they want a different, darker look or are they just worried about preserving the cumaru? Here's one tip you should mention, any iron and certain other metals that are in contact with the cumaru will cause it to blacken when it gets wet. Looks like black tannin stains on cedar. oxalic or citric acid will take them out if they are already seeing them but most finishes won't keep them from coming back.


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