# How To Eliminate Brush Marks ?



## HHI (Jan 19, 2016)

I have painted what feels like miles of trim and have been unable to find a method to brush it without getting brush marks. I generally use S.W. Pro-Classic Semi- Gloss. I have tried using Floetrol, which seems to help but still leaves marks. I recently tried a Zibra brush, which also seemed to help. I know there must be a way to do it because I was just recently in a house where a previous painter brushed all the trim and it looked like it was sprayed. I couldn't believe it. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

Tip it off with a roller.


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## MikeCalifornia (Aug 26, 2012)

thin it with water, works best with proclassic, still will want to run on you though.


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

If Zibra is your upgraded brush, curious to know what you were using before?


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## HHI (Jan 19, 2016)

I wouldn't call the Zibra an upgrade, just trying something different. I usually use a Purdy Chinex brush. What do you use for trim?


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## thamberg (Jun 11, 2012)

HHI said:


> I wouldn't call the Zibra an upgrade, just trying something different. I usually use a Purdy Chinex brush. What do you use for trim?


My go-to trim brush that always eliminates brush marks when using Pro Classic. Proform Picasso.


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## Clearlycut (Dec 1, 2013)

Roll on with whizzy micorfiber lay off with brush. Soft bristle brush.
Proform blaze.
Corona vegas
Purdy nylox (last resort)
Eliminate the amount actual strokes it takes to finish the surface. Roll on lay off?
Adding small amounts of water is good.
Ive found with any acrylics is that moving really fast helps alot.


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## Crackshot (Dec 29, 2015)

just brush it out. jeez its not that hard. use only the tips and way way way less paint. you literally put it on and take 98% of it back off. 
well I do and I always get asked how I did it.

btw. dont listen to the nubs. dont ever put water in your paint. 
I find if you "think your paint is too thick" that just makes it even easier to brush out to nil brush strokes. also as mentioned above. "moving really fast helps"

3 thin coats are ALWAYS better than 2 thick coats.


another secret method that so many have copied me once they see me do it. is put it on with a brush, (corners and verticies) then use a DRY microfiber roller (rad / nooky) and press it out. dont ever fill the roller with paint . if your roller makes ANY tac or noise when moving it. you're doing it wrong.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Make sure you check ANY brushes for any filaments that extend out past the others. As I have mentioned there has been a drastic fall in brush quality in the last couple of years. If you have even just one hair sticking out 1/16" past the straight cut of the others it can cause havoc with the brush marks. And your sanity if you just paid $15 for a brush that leaves brush marks.

Oh, and there are actually better paints for flow and lay-out than Proclassic believe it or not. But your buddies at SW sure don't want you to know about them.


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

I use mostly SW products, but for trim, I've gone exclusively to BM Advance. It lays out extremely well with a good brush. Seems like I default to the Corona Cortez. 


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## thamberg (Jun 11, 2012)

PACman said:


> Oh, and there are actually better paints for flow and lay-out than Proclassic believe it or not. But your buddies at SW sure don't want you to know about them.


Really? I'm curious to know what they are. Because other than a few hybrids (Advance, Renaissance), I've yet to find an Acrylic Latex that flows and lays-out as good as Pro Classic when brushed.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

thamberg said:


> Really? I'm curious to know what they are. Because other than a few hybrids (Advance, Renaissance), I've yet to find an Acrylic Latex that flows and lays-out as good as Pro Classic when brushed.


California Ultraplate, which you probably can't get in Oregon. Even P&L Accolade lays out as well as proclassic does. As far as California paints i can get their Propaint Semigloss to lay out as well as Proclassic does and it's about the same contractor price as PM 200 semigloss is.

But alas, not available everywhere I'm afraid.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

I paint paint said:


> If Zibra is your upgraded brush, curious to know what you were using before?


Don't they carry those at the Home Depot? What could possibly be wrong with them? BA-ZINGA!


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

It's amazing what you discover when you brush out 10-12 competitive products one right after the other using the exact same brush! I know you painter's never get much chance to do this, and granted i'm just doing it on a small piece of trim, but it's actually quite amazing to feel and see the differences between them. Honestly, Proclassic to me is kind of middle of the road for flow and leveling. Not a bad product by any means and the most accessible to most painters across the country, and it has a pretty reasonably price at normal contractor pricing. But there are quite a few products that actually will brush much better then it does. But unfortunately they are a little more expensive and you might actually have to put forth a pretty good effort to find them.


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## Crackshot (Dec 29, 2015)

PACman said:


> It's amazing what you discover when you brush out 10-12 competitive products one right after the other using the exact same brush! I know you painter's never get much chance to do this, and granted i'm just doing it on a small piece of trim, but it's actually quite amazing to feel and see the differences between them. Honestly, Proclassic to me is kind of middle of the road for flow and leveling. Not a bad product by any means and the most accessible to most painters across the country, and it has a pretty reasonably price at normal contractor pricing. But there are quite a few products that actually will brush much better then it does. But unfortunately they are a little more expensive and you might actually have to put forth a pretty good effort to find them.


yeah only took me 13 years to get around to doing this. its amazing all those years you swear you've told ppl till your blue in the face. until you seal the deal 100% by doing this. good to know aye.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Crackshot said:


> yeah only took me 13 years to get around to doing this. its amazing all those years you swear you've told ppl till your blue in the face. until you seal the deal 100% by doing this. good to know aye.


The thing to remember is that all the salespeople selling all those different brands are all going to tell people that their paint flows and levels the best. Until you actually test them yourself how do you really know?


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I get the smoothest results from most any paint, but Advance in particular, by applying a generous coat with a mini roller and tipping it off with a soft, nylon bristle brush like the Corona Tynex. 

Something I discovered not too many years ago is that you can't really "brush out" brush marks. The smoothest finish comes from minimum tooling. For me that's accomplished by rolling and tipping off. A lot of times I can get away with only one or two strokes of the brush. This combined with a sufficiently thick coat, and fast application allows the paint to flow out well. 

I have a Zebra and I think it has the finest, softest bristles I've ever seen. It's capable of laying down an extremely smooth coat. Problem is, I haven't seen one larger than 2" and the design is not ideal for me so I rarely use it. 




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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

I would have thought those Zebras would have course bristles, sort of like a cow.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

thamberg said:


> My go-to trim brush that always eliminates brush marks when using Pro Classic. Proform Picasso.


Not so good when all the bristles end up on the trim along with the paint:no:


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

chrisn said:


> Not so good when all the bristles end up on the trim along with the paint:no:


There is a 50/50 chance of getting a good picasso. I have had 2 good ones and one that lost dozens of bristles during one washing. 

A good picasso is really nice. I do understand your complaints about them though.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

HHI said:


> I have painted what feels like miles of trim and have been unable to find a method to brush it without getting brush marks. I generally use S.W. Pro-Classic Semi- Gloss. I have tried using Floetrol, which seems to help but still leaves marks. I recently tried a Zibra brush, which also seemed to help. I know there must be a way to do it because I was just recently in a house where a previous painter brushed all the trim and it looked like it was sprayed. I couldn't believe it. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.



Oil trim paint. None of the hybrid products even compare. 

I have used PC oil and latex for 10 years. I prefer using oil. Im growing tired of latex trim paint. We all banter back and forth about these products. It's like politics... Which turd is better? I don't know.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

chrisn said:


> I would have thought those Zebras would have course bristles, sort of like a cow.



Coarse


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## Crackshot (Dec 29, 2015)

i put it this way. if its oil enamel and its hard. and a chair dings it. its going to chip. if its waterbased enamel and its hard and a chair dings it. it will dent. do you want dents or chips?


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## thamberg (Jun 11, 2012)

chrisn said:


> Not so good when all the bristles end up on the trim along with the paint:no:


I gotta admit that it happened to me as well after using one for the first time about two years ago. Then I did some research online and discovered that Proform was becoming well aware of the problem after multiple complaints from upset customers everywhere, and was offering to send new product for free as a peace offering while they worked out their issues.

Since the last year or so the problem appears to be completely fixed and I've gone through multiple cases of them without any bristle shedding (unlike some of my Woosters and Purdy's during the same timeline). 

It's become a great all-around brush for me, both on smooth wood surfaces, and all of the textured drywall we have in this region.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Crackshot said:


> i put it this way. if its oil enamel and its hard. and a chair dings it. its going to chip. if its waterbased enamel and its hard and a chair dings it. it will dent. do you want dents or chips?


Good point. I would prefer a chip. The oil finish will sand out smooth.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

epretot said:


> There is a 50/50 chance of getting a good picasso. I have had 2 good ones and one that lost dozens of bristles during one washing.
> 
> A good picasso is really nice. I do understand your complaints about them though.


I wonder if there is any way to check for this before i sell them? I usually tap a brush and spin it in my hands to see if they shed as a way of checking for fallout, but I wonder if this is sufficient to make sure the ones I have for sale are good?


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## mudbone (Dec 26, 2011)

chrisn said:


> I would have thought those Zebras would have course bristles, sort of like a cow.


Excellent when used with "milk" paints.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

mudbone said:


> Excellent when used with "milk" paints.


That's udder madness!


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

epretot said:


> Oil trim paint. None of the hybrid products even compare.
> 
> I have used PC oil and latex for 10 years. I prefer using oil. Im growing tired of latex trim paint. We all banter back and forth about these products. It's like politics... Which turd is better? I don't know.


Well unfortunately not all of us can get Oil based paint anymore except in quarts. I know I could sell a 5hit ton of Cellu-tone gallons if I could get them.

Years ago SW developed an actual lo voc complying 100% alkyd trim paint. It would have been compliant throughout the country. Anyone remember Promar Salon? I'm sure SW has tried to forget it!

It was sticky as hell to brush, didn't lay out worth a crap, but the two worst things were the dry time (7-8 days at 70deg and 50% humidity was quite common) and the fact that as it was drying you couldn't get it anywhere near any fresh latex paint! The stuff would do 100 years worth of yellowing over night if it was drying in a room where latex had been used!

They worked on it for quite some time but I think they gave up completely on it. That's part of the reason the dual dispersion/hybrid paints where put into development about that same time. It just got to the point where the paint companies came to the understanding that after 150 years or so that true alkyd paints just weren't worth the effort to try to improve anymore.

If I remember correctly one of the solvents they used in it was #2 kerosene!


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

chrisn said:


> Not so good when all the bristles end up on the trim along with the paint:no:


I curious about something, and maybe Nace or someone more chemically inclined then I am may be able to answer this, but could being soaked in a paint that had ammonia in it cause the epoxy glue in these Picasso brushes to soften? Isn't ammonia a component of epoxy hardeners?

I'm curious if a quality difference in the actual epoxy these filaments are "set" in with along with a long term ammonia exposure may be what the issue was/is. Maybe they have changed the epoxy they are using and that eliminated the problem. Any ideas?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

HHI said:


> I have painted what feels like miles of trim and have been unable to find a method to brush it without getting brush marks. I generally use S.W. Pro-Classic Semi- Gloss. I have tried using Floetrol, which seems to help but still leaves marks. I recently tried a Zibra brush, which also seemed to help. I know there must be a way to do it because I was just recently in a house where a previous painter brushed all the trim and it looked like it was sprayed. I couldn't believe it. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.


Have you asked any of the SW store people or your SW rep about this? Just curious because the brush manufacturers actually recommend a specific filament material for high solids semigloss paints. In particular Pro-Classic. Just curious if this info has trickled down to the SW stores yet. (Fyi it is Chinex.)


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

epretot said:


> Oil trim paint. None of the hybrid products even compare.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used PC oil and latex for 10 years. I prefer using oil. Im growing tired of latex trim paint. We all banter back and forth about these products. It's like politics... Which turd is better? I don't know.



IMHO, oil is just not worth the hassle anymore. We recently painted the home of an older, retired building contractor. He was divorced and "moving down" in house. He really couldn't understand (or believe) the newer paint technology so we used oil on the trim. That was 3 days I would like to have back. It looks good (in white for a while), but just not worth the odor, clean up, etc. I think the new stuff is so very close to how it lays out, hardness etc. It did take quite a while to get here though. 


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

radio11 said:


> IMHO, oil is just not worth the hassle anymore. We recently painted the home of an older, retired building contractor. He was divorced and "moving down" in house. He really couldn't understand (or believe) the newer paint technology so we used oil on the trim. That was 3 days I would like to have back. It looks good (in white for a while), but just not worth the odor, clean up, etc. I think the new stuff is so very close to how it lays out, hardness etc. It did take quite a while to get here though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I understand the draw backs. I completely agree that is has some diwn side. I don't use it exclusively. However, I will use it when the existing trim is oil, new constructio or on shelving (book shelves specifically).

I am paid a premium to use it...or I don't.

I must say though, I think we are lying to say the hybrids are as good. I have been told I'm an old soul. I probably sound like your customer you mentuoned above. I'm not old though.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I've got a house coming up with beautiful stained trim. I'm talking top of the line stuff and lots of it crown, chair rail, doors, huge fireplace mantel with build ins. They are selling the house and the bigger complaint they get from buyers is the house needs updating, meaning paint the trim. 
So I'm converting it all to paint. I quoted it for a primer and two coats of Cashmere. The closer I get to the start date the more leaving brush marks has me worried. Spraying is out of the question and so is oil. I've never had much love for Proclassic because it can run like crazy especially down door jam grooves. Plus other than leveling out nice I think the finish feels dry and doesn't look all that great. 

I got comped a gallon of the pro industrial multi surface which according to SW is their answer to breakthrough. I've been testing it out along side breakthrough and I think I may have found a winner. 

So far I've put it right over Proclassic semi gloss oil and couldn't scratch it off an hour later (same for breakthrough) and it layed out nice like the breakthrough does. 

They smell the same with the biggest difference being consistency. The breakthrough is super thin and the multi surface is pretty darn thick. From what I've done with it so far it leveled just as good as breakthrough (which is pretty GD good) and seemed to have more hide. Breakthrough is thin and doesn't hide well at all. If you try to put it on thicker it'll just run and sag all over the place. 

Tomorrow I'm gonna get my hands on some cabinet doors and that have never been painted before and put it to the test. If what I've seen from it on a smaller sample holds true on a larger scale I think I may have found my new go to trim paint. :yes:

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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I've got a house coming up with beautiful stained trim. I'm talking top of the line stuff and lots of it crown, chair rail, doors, huge fireplace mantel with build ins. They are selling the house and the bigger complaint they get from buyers is the house needs updating, meaning paint the trim.
> So I'm converting it all to paint. I quoted it for a primer and two coats of Cashmere. The closer I get to the start date the more leaving brush marks has me worried. Spraying is out of the question and so is oil. I've never had much love for Proclassic because it can run like crazy especially down door jam grooves. Plus other than leveling out nice I think the finish feels dry and doesn't look all that great.
> 
> I got comped a gallon of the pro industrial multi surface which according to SW is their answer to breakthrough. I've been testing it out along side breakthrough and I think I may have found a winner.
> ...



I think Cashmere is fine...but I would be worried about coverage even with priming. Especially over stained trim.


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## SemiproJohn (Jul 29, 2013)

I love Cashmere for walls, but would be worried about hardness on trim. I haven't tried it on trim and have been using ProClassic. The Pro Industrial Multi Surface sounds worth a try.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

As I understand it, that's another part of the EPA game with paints: how it's labeled. Call it "Industrial" and you have a different standard of compliance. It matters not where it's actually used. 

Are we having fun yet?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

SemiproJohn said:


> I love Cashmere for walls, but would be worried about hardness on trim. I haven't tried it on trim and have been using ProClassic. The Pro Industrial Multi Surface sounds worth a try.


The Cashmere medium luster is a nice trim paint. Before using it in the field I tested it out against the latex proclassic. It didn't lay out as nice but it also doesn't run. To me it had a nicer feel and a better looking finish. An added bonus is that it has really nice coverage. 

The multi surface has me excited. As far it seems to have all the qualities I love about breakthrough without all the drawbacks I hate. I'll know more on a couple days when I'm done playing around with it.


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

SemiproJohn said:


> I love Cashmere for walls, but would be worried about hardness on trim. I haven't tried it on trim and have been using ProClassic. The Pro Industrial Multi Surface sounds worth a try.



I've got a new SW rep in my area. He called to introduce himself and touch base with me and what I may need. I told him that I use a lot of SW products throughout the year, but have gone to BM Advance (almost exclusively) for trim. He tried to get me to go with PC hybrid, but I'm not changing (and learning another paint) for $2 per gallon savings. Then he mentioned PI multi surface and gave a good price. From what I've read and heard, it's good, but no way it will lay out like Advance. People pass my name around for my attention to detail--no way I can chance brush marks to save a few bucks.

Maybe somebody can compare the 2 for me. 


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

At the end of the day, a trim/cab paint that drys fast probably won't level out to the smooth finish that a slower drying paint will. Especially brushing. That's why Advance seems to be the winner for less brushmarks. 

As for spraying, that's a different thing.


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

Rbriggs82 said:


> The Cashmere medium luster is a nice trim paint. Before using it in the field I tested it out against the latex proclassic. It didn't lay out as nice but it also doesn't run.
> 
> it.




Seems like that is a one to one correspondence. The better a paint levels, the more it has to move after application . 

A greater propensity to run, sag, or pool seems synonymous with leveling qualities to me. How else could a coating level except to move somewhat during the drying process. 




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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> Seems like that is a one to one correspondence. The better a paint levels, the more it has to move after application .
> 
> A greater propensity to run, sag, or pool seems synonymous with leveling qualities to me. How else could a coating level except to move somewhat during the drying process.
> 
> ...


Right obviously. My problem with the latex proclassic is that after all that movement and your attention spent making sure that movement doesn't end up as a little puddle at the bottom of a door jam the end result isn't all that nice. 

I think the oil is easier to work with than the latex and doesn't run as much.


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## stelzerpaintinginc. (May 9, 2012)

Rbriggs82 said:


> I've got a house coming up with beautiful stained trim. I'm talking top of the line stuff and lots of it crown, chair rail, doors, huge fireplace mantel with build ins. They are selling the house and the bigger complaint they get from buyers is the house needs updating, meaning paint the trim.
> So I'm converting it all to paint. I quoted it for a primer and two coats of Cashmere. The closer I get to the start date the more leaving brush marks has me worried. Spraying is out of the question and so is oil. I've never had much love for Proclassic because it can run like crazy especially down door jam grooves. Plus other than leveling out nice I think the finish feels dry and doesn't look all that great.
> 
> I got comped a gallon of the pro industrial multi surface which according to SW is their answer to breakthrough. I've been testing it out along side breakthrough and I think I may have found a winner.
> ...



Although many here may have disagreed with me, I've stated before that Sherwin's Industrial line has some great products. The MS has great adhesion properties, flows & levels well, and dries as hard as anything. The only area Breakthrough is superior is in its blocking abilities, (specifically, early blocking), at least from my experience. For that trim job, I think it would do well. For cabs, BT would get my vote. JMO.


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## epretot (Dec 17, 2011)

Rbriggs82 said:


> Right obviously. My problem with the latex proclassic is that after all that movement and your attention spent making sure that movement doesn't end up as a little puddle at the bottom of a door jam the end result isn't all that nice.
> 
> I think the oil is easier to work with than the latex and doesn't run as much.


Pro Tip: when painting frames with PC latex, complete your stroke 1/2" from the floor. The PC will run the remainder of the way down.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

slinger58 said:


> As I understand it, that's another part of the EPA game with paints: how it's labeled. Call it "Industrial" and you have a different standard of compliance. It matters not where it's actually used.
> 
> Are we having fun yet?


It actually does matter where it's used, but they have no way of knowing because they don't have thousands of inspectors to find out! There is very little actual enforcement able to be done at the application point, but it is technically illegal to use an "industrial" labelled paint on a non-voc approved substrate. Industrial alkyd enamels have to be labelled for use on metal, but are they actually any different then the old all purpose alkyds? Nope. If you use them on wood your chances of getting caught aren't pretty high unless you have a spray booth requiring a permit. BUT, who knows when those EPA guys will get the funding to enforce the regs? I hope I get a heads up.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

Man I really feel sorry for you painters that don't have access or won't try Ultraplate. It pretty much fixes all of the little issues you are having with trim paint. Early block resistance, incredible adhesion, drys good and hard over night, Brushed touch-ups blend like a sprayed finish, lays out when brushed like nothing I have ever seen. Low odor, great sheen level. I wish more people had it nearby.


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

PACman said:


> Man I really feel sorry for you painters that don't have access or won't try Ultraplate. It pretty much fixes all of the little issues you are having with trim paint. Early block resistance, incredible adhesion, drys good and hard over night, Brushed touch-ups blend like a sprayed finish, lays out when brushed like nothing I have ever seen. Low odor, great sheen level. I wish more people had it nearby.


I'd try it in a heartbeat if it were available around here.


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## lovasnj (May 23, 2015)

PACman....any experience with Muralo ultra and how it compares with Ultraplate?


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

lovasnj said:


> PACman....any experience with Muralo ultra and how it compares with Ultraplate?


I don't have any personal experience with the Muralo products. They are owned by California but my rep hasn't gotten me any Muralo samples to play with yet. It's starting to piss me off to be honest because I have heard quite a few good things about the Muralo lines from local painters that used it "years" ago.


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

PACman said:


> I don't have any personal experience with the Muralo products. They are owned by California but my rep hasn't gotten me any Muralo samples to play with yet. It's starting to piss me off to be honest because I have heard quite a few good things about the Muralo lines from local painters that used it "years" ago.



My BM dealer has it on the shelf and would like to try it (before it's no longer on the shelf). Not sure they move a lot of it, but I could be wrong. Haven't seen Seth the Painter on here in a while, but he's a big fan of the Muralo. It's cost about 35%-40% more than Advance--a least how I was quoted. 


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

radio11 said:


> My BM dealer has it on the shelf and would like to try it (before it's no longer on the shelf). Not sure they move a lot of it, but I could be wrong. Haven't seen Seth the Painter on here in a while, but he's a big fan of the Muralo. It's cost about 35%-40% more than Advance--a least how I was quoted.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's priced pretty high by most retailers. Usually around $70 for semi-gloss retail. They don't actually have a suggested retail price on it so the dealers can pretty much do what they want with it, same as California. Ben Moore generally likes to keep a little tighter rein on retail pricing so it tends to be a little more consistent. The dealers can discount it as much as they want but if they go to low they lose the advertising funds BM provides them.

Did Seth the Painter get banned?


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I had the opportunity to use muralo years ago. I don't remember what line it was but it was among some if the best paints I ever used. 

Unfortunately the only store that sold it was owned by a competitor of mine so I didn't shop there. 

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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

PACman said:


> It's priced pretty high by most retailers. Usually around $70 for semi-gloss retail. They don't actually have a suggested retail price on it so the dealers can pretty much do what they want with it, same as California. Ben Moore generally likes to keep a little tighter rein on retail pricing so it tends to be a little more consistent. The dealers can discount it as much as they want but if they go to low they lose the advertising funds BM provides them.
> 
> 
> 
> Did Seth the Painter get banned?



IIIRC, about $70 is the price I was given.




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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

So someone here suggested the Zibra brush. I am still dealing with some gloss paint issues, so I bought one to try it out.

I loved the feel of the brush. It did an okay job with the paint. As Jim Mays pointed out, it is best not to overwork it. The brush did a better job than everything else I tried, but for gloss, meh. I wish I knew how to spray.

However, I could see me using this brush and loving it on other projects.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

fauxlynn said:


> So someone here suggested the Zibra brush. I am still dealing with some gloss paint issues, so I bought one to try it out.
> 
> I loved the feel of the brush. It did an okay job with the paint. As Jim Mays pointed out, it is best not to overwork it. The brush did a better job than everything else I tried, but for gloss, meh. I wish I knew how to spray.
> 
> However, I could see me using this brush and loving it on other projects.


It's never to late to learn. With the type of work you do, you'd get a lot of use out of a good HVLP unit. And you have a whole panel of experts here to get you up to speed in no time. Plus you'd have me to lend moral support.


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## fauxlynn (Apr 28, 2011)

Awww, thanks,Big Daddy ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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## I paint paint (May 4, 2014)

Rbriggs82 said:


> The multi surface has me excited. As far it seems to have all the qualities I love about breakthrough without all the drawbacks I hate. I'll know more on a couple days when I'm done playing around with it.


Keep us posted.

Even start a new thread about it if it turns out to be worthy.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

Jmayspaint said:


> Seems like that is a one to one correspondence. The better a paint levels, the more it has to move after application .
> 
> A greater propensity to run, sag, or pool seems synonymous with leveling qualities to me. How else could a coating level except to move somewhat during the drying process.
> 
> ...


Exactly. Which logically leads to the issue of applying the proper wet mils. 

Too thick and it will run and sag. Too thin, it'll dry before it has a chance to level.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

To go back to the title of this thread. It seems to me that if you use a brush to paint with, you are going to have brush marks.

PERIOD, enough said.


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## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

chrisn said:


> To go back to the title of this thread. It seems to me that if you use a brush to paint with, you are going to have brush marks.
> 
> PERIOD, enough said.


Pretty much.

Usually the only way to avoid it is with a good product that levels well and just a little bit of technique.

I like using syntox brushes. Soft and with a little practice laying off, you minimize marks.

Want a spray finish....spray.


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## propainterJ (Jan 31, 2011)

An airless does a real good job eliminating brush marks in my humble opinion


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## Masterpiece (Feb 26, 2008)

That's an interesting situation as I've brushed doors and large trim/base in homes and it leveled out perfectly that's a little surprising. That was with the acrylic version though I've recently used the acrylic-alkyd and had the same nice results with brushing.

Some were with the Wooster Shasta Firm and the others were with a Corona.


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## thinkpainting/nick (Dec 25, 2012)

thamberg said:


> Really? I'm curious to know what they are. Because other than a few hybrids (Advance, Renaissance), I've yet to find an Acrylic Latex that flows and lays-out as good as Pro Classic when brushed.


I use what works best always have no matter who makes it. Advance out brushes , rolls, or sprays better than PC crap any day all day. Also holds up much better. I am a fan of many SW products but PC is sooooo overrated.


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## cbinc (Mar 16, 2015)

nothing short of experience to get experience on how to do this. I usually tell my customers.."don't brush, if you don't want brush strokes" lots of people have their own trade secrets...you have some good advice above!


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