# aura



## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

Im a sw guy, but aura matte is my new wall paint. Two coats, any color, self priming on drywall and plaster (we only paint plaster). total perfect smoothest wall I have ever seen, perfect touch up. You have to cut an entire room first let it dry (dries pretty fast) and then roll weird I know but you have to try it.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Yeah if you roll or brush back into it to 'keep the edge wet', you'll mess it up big time
Gotta think out of the box with that stuff


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

Really!
Well that's interesting...
Have not tried it yet.
Can't wait.
r


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

regal....a SW guy? cool, I'll be extra nice to you then....

btw, how much is Aura? and so you're saying that you actually have to cause what is traditionally "picture framing" then go back and roll?


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

OK, Who sells Aura matte paint?
r

...found it, at bennymore...


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

aura is $47.00, but no primer is needed, and any color covers two coats. deep colors especially. total invisible touch up.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Rich said:


> ...and so you're saying that you actually have to cause what is traditionally "picture framing" then go back and roll?


Yes...sort of....
You need to think out of the box on this stuff
Follow the directions, not your habits

It dries mind-numbingly fast, so it doesn't keep a wet edge...in fact you don't want to keep a wet edge
If you panic and re-roll/brush to wet it again, you're hosed

But it dries to _sand_ and re-coat in an hour

I'm doing a reasonably dark blue (base 4) over white next week...it'll be a great test of the "one coat"
I don't expect it...but I'm going to try and push it


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

slickshift said:


> It dries mind-numbingly fast, so it doesn't keep a wet edge...in fact you don't want to keep a wet edge
> If you panic and re-roll/brush to wet it again, you're hosed
> But it dries to _sand_ and re-coat in an hour


interesting...let me know what happens
it's going to be a true test to throw all my habits out the window-I might actually like this stuff...no more running around in a sweat rolling out those big stairwells!


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

regal said:


> aura is $47.00, but no primer is needed, and any color covers two coats. deep colors especially. total invisible touch up.


hefty price for interior paint...but....did you say "total invisible touch up?

...duration is real good as well and I get that for $33/per so I guess this stuff is supposedly better?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Yeah it's funny...DIYers have a better time with it than pros
They don't have any good habits to break...lol


better...well...it's really different from the ground up
...that's not a line

The tints in other latex paints are oil
Aura is all water based...low VOC and all...


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

interior duration is not self priming on new drywall or plaster. I dont have to prime, remember I said two coats coverage not one. Although some have experienced it on repaints, I have only used it on new construction.


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

i have used this product over the last couple months and have found that it works well with certain colors... yellows dont cover well, some blues also dont cover... i had one house with the same exact color to be recoated w/ aura in yellow and it didnt cover w/ 1st coat and 2nd coat wasnt great either..... as for being self-priming not great either it can still flash especially over newly "taped" drywall. i say this because bm says u can go over new drywall but that doesnt mean taped drwalll!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its a ok prduct but not w/ money


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

dincao said:


> ias for being self-priming not great either it can still flash especially over newly "taped" drywall. i say this because bm says u can go over new drywall but that doesnt mean taped drwalll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


isn't all new drywall taped though? so I'm missing what you mean here...wonder if other guys are having the same issues you are too


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## lamimiette (Oct 16, 2007)

*Aura? SW?*

Is there a translator in the room? I knew Auro. I did not know Aura. SW I have not idea what it means!
I knew the BM green specifications paint. Is that one better in terms of VOC?
Is it extra flat? sandy? more expensive that the "green" stuff?
Paints that dry that fast are a pain. how do you avoid overlaps?
Myriam


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## dincao (Oct 25, 2007)

they demonstated over new drywall that wasnt taped to show coverage !!! but not for newly taped drywall... i said bm says u can go over new drywall that doesnt mean it doesnt flash!!!


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

lamimiette said:


> Is there a translator in the room?


_I knew Auro. I did not know Aura._
Aura = new Paint line from Benjamin Moore Paint Company

_SW I have not idea what it means!
_Sherwin Williams Paint company

_ I knew the BM green specifications paint. Is that one better in terms of VOC?
Is it extra flat? sandy? more expensive that the "green" stuff?
_Not sure of the VOC specs compared to ECOSPEC (Ben Moore'
s "green" line
But ECOSPEC isn't easy to use or tint (well, I think so anyway)
I believe the flat is flatter than ECOSPECs "flattest"...which isn't very flat
I never used much of the ECOSPEC, I didn't care for it...but I could be remembering that wrong...

_Paints that dry that fast are a pain. how do you avoid overlaps?
_You don't have to worry about it
You let it dry...you don't get overlaps...the Aura is different
You get a mess when you try and "re-wet" an edge like regular paint though


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I asked about aura after BM sent me a demo dvd, but it won't be available here for a few more months. My rep told me it would be higher than $45 I think he said around $55. 

If it is better than duration home I will love it, but the fact it's supposed to be one coat and it dries so fast is not appealing to me. I would like to be able to go back into it if I am doing a wall before I go to the next.

Anyhow I told them if it was better than duration it would have to jump out of the can and onto the wall it's self.:lol:


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## painttofish (Aug 28, 2007)

My BM rep just got the first samples of aura in today and showed it to me. He said that you use a primer/undercoater first and than one coat of aura. Is this the method you guys use? He said it would be $47.00 a gallon I usually use BM matte. I haven't tried Duration Home yet, I don't like the SW store here. Of those of you who have used both, what product do you prefer SW DH or BM M? Does anyone use Grahams interior ceramic?


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

I was using duration home, tried aura, It gives a total uniform seamless apperance down the wall. It dries fast but not while you are working with it. In other words it doesnt drag like trying to paint in the sun. Touch up is invisible. No need to tint primer and hope for the best, there is a primer for some dark colors but I used a real dark dark blue, and a real bright dark green didnt need it. (the blue was almost black) The DVD Is a little corny, and tries to show you that its customer market is for professional middle aged women...whatever.....I have learned that not all BM dealers will carry it. The store has to invest $20,000 for the tint machine, and the BM perk to the dealer is that they (BM) will sell the aura to them in its raw form for the same price they pay for there other lines of paint, and they can sell it for much more and keep the profit. BM also tells them that no other dealer can sell below $47.00 to contractors. I heard this from a small BM store owner that passed on the deal........but Im still a SW guy.


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

yep! the paint formulation biz is one big hustle!
r


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

I'm not sure I'd call it a hustle, but I know what you mean
After investing 20,000 dollars in the machine, I'd hope they'd give the store a break on something
If they made me invest $20,000 in special tool for it, I'd expect a deal on product....for a few years

The R&D on this product must have been monumental
I can see why it would be more expensive


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

I'm just having a bit more difficulty these days justifying the cost of product to a client when prices approach $50 a gallon. It's a rare case when a client gives me carte blanche and says they want the best there is, money is no object.
Almost all have at least passed by a display in HD and seen product for not much more than 50 a five, and are aware that is far from a quality product.
I just don't think titanium dioxide is THAT expensive!
And then there are specialty coatings that can sell for 200 a gal, or more!
r


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

Tmrrptr said:


> I'm just having a bit more difficulty these days justifying the cost of product to a client when prices approach $50 a gallon.


Yeah, it's pretty disgusting to think about $50/gal. for paint. It all depends on the type of work you do. Since I do middle to higher end jobs, I will find myself using top quality paints a lot more. Guys who are painting apartments and those who blow and go would never be caught paying more than $25/gal.

Most of the time my customers never know what I'm paying for paint or what I'm charging them for it. But I do see your point...it's getting harder and harder to win estimates with such expensive paint costs.


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## Tmrrptr (May 4, 2007)

Rich, I suspect that has been my problem... the kind of work I do.

I would prefer to work on the high end, and have the ability.
But I've failed in marketing and won't hesitate to take a blow n go project if work is slow. 

Two interiors this year were done for a slumlord who just did not care what color was painted. Instead of using cheapo HD product I boxed out most of my old paint which ended up saving me labor because it only took one coat instead of four.
Ha! one came out matte light green, and the other kinda satin tan...

I think what I'll need to do is give clients two options on product quality which will mean durability as well.
r


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Tmrrptr said:


> ...I'm just having a bit more difficulty these days justifying the cost of product to a client when prices approach $50 a gallon...


Ah...well that's an excellent point
But in a painter's case the paint product is not the always most expensive part of the quote for the customer
In fact it rarely is
It can also be difficult to explain to people the sundries can easily reach the price of the paint products, and the labor of prep involved can easily reach the labor of applying the coating

The price of the actual paint is not a big enough factor for me to be concerned

In fact, it's a good "step up" or "upgrade" to offer (at a price)
However...
The thing is, as I see it this Aura mostly means I only need one coat were I would have needed two, and two where I would have needed prime and two (3), so it's really saving ME time (=money) in the big picture
....far more than any extra product cost involved

It seems I could easily use the product, charge the same, and still increase my profits
I'll need to use more to be sure, but that's the way it looks


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## Rich (Apr 26, 2007)

You make absolutely valid points John

it gets tough when you are in a situation where the HO knows how much things cost. ie...when you have a T&M job going and are painting 2 walls or something and you hit the HO with a $500 bill. This is a crucial time to explain to them the quality of the paintjob, how long it will last, washability, etc. _Usually_ that calms them down.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

My mother is a prime example of the type of customer that gives me the most headaches. Even thou she knows better as she has painted with me in the past.

When she wanted her kitchen painted guess where she went and bought the paint, before even asking me to do it? Wal-Mart! 

She said "I just don't see spending over 30 bucks for a gallon of paint." Nevermind I had to apply three coats to get a decent finish. Of course I did it for free, but she bought the paint behind my back because I would have bought something better. 

I am looking forward to trying aura thou. :thumbsup:


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

remember cut it in, let it dry, then roll.


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## MooreMan (Nov 30, 2007)

FYI

Attached is an Aura application technique guide. Yes you do need to think counter intuitive to your normal painting routine. 

As far as dark or vibrant colors go there are two foundation coats, one in yellow and one in red. Your retailer could have sold one of these to eliminate hide problems with your deep yellow and red.


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## Nathan (Mar 28, 2007)

MooreMan said:


> FYI
> 
> Attached is an Aura application technique guide. Yes you do need to think counter intuitive to your normal painting routine.
> 
> As far as dark or vibrant colors go there are two foundation coats, one in yellow and one in red. Your retailer could have sold one of these to eliminate hide problems with your deep yellow and red.


Welcome to the site Mooreman, I look forward to your input :thumbsup:


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## MooreMan (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks, glad to be here.

MM


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Hey...that's just what I need...Thanks MM

I have a tech having issues spraying doors...I'll have to check out the guide for spraying tips (pun intended)

And yes...welcome!
Glad you found us


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Slick, you are spraying Aura satin? What issues are you having, what size tip, etc. For regular paints, most guys are using smaller tips than manufacturer recommends and I was wonder if Aura would be the same way. I usually use a 10FF tip for my trim paint, so a 15 orifice seems huge.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Yes, satin
Drips with a 15...6 panel doors
Can't really use a lighter touch...kinda would defeat the one coat coverage deal
I'm talking a re-paint though...not sure if that's an issue...shouldn't be...
(Almost the same color)

I know this stuff will sag/drip when cutting in corners with a brush
Not real drippy, but drippy a la SuperPaint...you just can't load it up like Regal
Just need to use a lighter touch

Can't really go much lighter on these doors though...not sure what the cure is...


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

slickshift said:


> ...6 panel doors


I get the feeling it would be fine if they were flat...it's the panels that are the issue


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Aura definitely has a learning curve. I have done about 6 rooms with it not (matte and eggshell) and have one gallon of satin I am playing around with in my shop before I use it on a job. For brushing the satin on trim, it seems like for simple trim that one brush width covers, it will look great. For complex trim like paneled doors, not so great unless you get it on perfectly in one pass, no blending brushmarks or going back to catch a thin spot or little drip. If you do that, it is over.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

You haven't sprayed a 6-panel yet?
Maybe we should try a smaller tip...


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have not sprayed it at all, only limited trial brushwork for trim thus far. Let us know what you come up with though.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Will do
:thumbsup:


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## MooreMan (Nov 30, 2007)

Cure time on the Aura is 2 weeks under normal conditions.

For an airless application a 15K tip is recommended. Have not done testing with the FF. Let us know how that works.

You can justify spending $50 on a can of paint when your material consumption is cut in half and your labor is greatly reduced. Therefore if you bid the same price as a three to four coat deep color job you can get the job done in one day instead of three to four. Given the one hour recoat time and the "no more than two coats any color any finish". You can apply two coats in one day and your done. Much better than the six hour recoat window of the past.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I used Aura eggshell on walls, Rhubarb Red. The previous walls were a typical light yellow that we sanded and dusted. Two coats did not cover, it's performance was in line with my experiences - had you not told me it was a 'special' paint - I wouldn't have guessed it. It perhaps touches up nice - not sure, didn't stick around to really asses. But I was going everwhere with a small doughnut roller going over 'weak' areas - as I wasn't willing to swallow the labor and materials for a 3rd coat - which Ben Moore has advertized to the customer isn't needed. So who ends up looking like an a$$, me! I have read perhaps you need the 3/4" polyamide cover - I didn't do that, just a 3/8" E&J. So far not impressed.


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## MooreMan (Nov 30, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> I used Aura eggshell on walls, Rhubarb Red. The previous walls were a typical light yellow that we sanded and dusted. Two coats did not cover, it's performance was in line with my experiences - had you not told me it was a 'special' paint - I wouldn't have guessed it. It perhaps touches up nice - not sure, didn't stick around to really asses. But I was going everwhere with a small doughnut roller going over 'weak' areas - as I wasn't willing to swallow the labor and materials for a 3rd coat - which Ben Moore has advertized to the customer isn't needed. So who ends up looking like an a$$, me! I have read perhaps you need the 3/4" polyamide cover - I didn't do that, just a 3/8" E&J. So far not impressed.


 
Have you addressed this issue with your local BM rep?


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

My rep has never held a paint brush in his life - unless Ben Moore is going to pay me for consulting services - why should I care what the heck their product does? I work with many other brands of paints - heck as expensive as Fine Paints of Europe is - I have seen better results with deep reds in only one coat vs. 2 for aura.


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

.......plain, find out if that particular ruhbarb red required a foundation (Aura primer) If it does, and you were'nt told, then you were mislead. I have heard that the computer will tell the person making the paint if it is a color that requires a foundation coat first. If it didnt, sorry if I mislead you or anyone. But %@#!* I have used bright ugly deep greens, deep almost black blues, deep reds, and had great results 2 coats. The Aura cover, is a "micro fiber" cover that I have noticed does make some difference......That response about the consulting fee is classic.....:thumbsup:


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

In Aura, Reds and Yellows require the special primer


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

If it requires the special primer - then what makes this paint so different?


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## MooreMan (Nov 30, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> If it requires the special primer - then what makes this paint so different?


 
It is called "Color Foundation". It is not so much a "primer" but a color base coat designed to develop the color using only 2 coats. 

The only reason I suggested contacting your BM rep is they should know these things. If you had a problem on a job wouldn't you want to know, or would you prefer your customer throw you off the job with no explaination or opportunity to fix the problem?

Feedback in all aspects of this industry is extremely important. In a way we are all consultants.


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

I understand that a 'color' foundation is not so much a primer - I and others have used primers tinted as a cheaper way to change colors drastically. My gripe with Aura - is that I have had success with every paint in the universe with tinted primer and two topcoats. Ben Moore sold this product on not needing the extra steps - thus saving labor and money for the contractor. But guess what - that woman I helped out - she's back on the job giving the customer a 3rd coat today for free - at least she isn't eating the extra paint. Like I said - not a bad paint whatsoever. But doesn't live up to its advertizing. And really - do you really expect me to believe that they didn't see this in the lab when they were developing this product? I rank this up there with 'stain' killing latex primers. I've never met a latex product that could kill a stain yet!


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

There are some colors that need the foundation primer, I checked in Rhubarb Red is NOT one of them from the computer (I checked at my paint store today). I used a red today (Burnt Peanut Red, it looks nothing like any burnt peanut I have ever seen) and it needed the foundation red primer. I really like that foundation primer. It goes on smooth, far, dries fast, low spatter, covers well. For my job, it was three walls. One of them looked great with one primer and one topcoat of Aura. The other 2 walls I put 2 topcoats in since one of them had a large, open entry from the dining room to living room, and the other had a opening to the hallway and a regular door. I found that above the openings/doorway I did not get the topcoat on as thick since it was only approx. 12" hight above the openings, and in areas like that it can be harder to get the paint on thick enough, since you cannot roll it out as well there.

There is definitely a learning curve, but I am leaning towards making Aura my regular paint for repaint work. I really like it so far. I just need to decide how to price it (guarantee 2 coats or still bid deep reds for 3 in case, try to get a higher hourly wage for using the high paint like Aura, etc).


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

DeanV said:


> ...I just need to decide how to price it (guarantee 2 coats or still bid deep reds for 3 in case...


The finish is certainly worth an up-charge, I wouldn't bid any _less_ than a Regal bid (which for reds I would bid three coats and hope for two)


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## plainpainter (Nov 6, 2007)

Dean brought up an interesting point - when you do estimates, whether the customer sees it or not - we price labor and materials seperately. Lots of these high end paint companies have all shown us how it isn't that much more money to 'sell' their more expensive paint - and then showed how labor is the majority of the price. But my 'beef' has always been, where is the incentive for me to sell a customer on a higher priced product, unless I am sharing in the profits. If I get paid the same wage to roll paint, wheter it's Behr or Aura - what do I care what the customer goes with? Why should try and 'sell' anybody's product? So the question is, with higher end paints - do guys up their hourly labor charge into their estimates?


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## Tony Galiardi (Apr 24, 2007)

----


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

plainpainter said:


> ...If I get paid the same wage to roll paint, wheter it's Behr or Aura - what do I care what the customer goes with? Why should try and 'sell' anybody's product?...


I understand your position
For me, I don't get a wage...or the "same wage" whatever I paint
I get a set amount for the job
If I use Behr, it takes longer and more coats...my hourly "wage" goes down considerably (enough that I actually UPCHARGE for Behr)
With Aura it goes smoother and faster (and looks better), with less coats...my hourly "wage" goes up considerably
Aside from the fact that it looks better, I can make more profit
That's a good incentive to "sell" someone's product


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

MooreMan said:


> For an airless application a 15K tip is recommended. Have not done testing with the FF. Let us know how that works.


We tried a 210FF tip and two light coats and that seemed to work OK
No sags...looks good
But obviously that negates some of the benefits of Aura
It was a re-paint of a close color with scraped, sanded, and primed, areas
-I'm sure brushed on it would have been one coat


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I am looking at it this way. Let's say that I am looking at a 14x14 room that is going to be a significant color change, 2 coats of Aura or 2 coats of Matte.

For estimating, the room will take 4 hours to paint, so if I charge $40/hr I have a labor for $160.

To do the job with Matte it would be $195 including paint (retail).
To do the job with Aura, would be $220 including paint (retail).

It would take the same amount of time either way, or at least pretty close. I am thinking for small rooms, it takes a little longer for Aura though, since you have to let the cut in dry completely before rolling.

Would the privilege of having Aura on your wall be worth bumping up the room price to $275? I do see it from saving me having to tell the customer that there is going to be an extra 3rd coat that they need to pay for, but I am not sure yet that it will get the job done quicker for a regular 2 coat color change. Are any of you seeing one coat color changes that should have been 2?


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

DeanV said:


> ...Are any of you seeing one coat color changes that should have been 2?


Yes
Aside from the spraying, and granted I've only done a few, but so far I can say:

If it's normally a primer two coat Regal job (whether it's a drastic color change re-paint or new drywall) for three coats total, then it's only two coats Aura

If it's normally a two coat Regal job, then it's one coat Aura

I've also found I no longer need to spot primer drywall repairs...so there's another time saver
It just...keeps...getting...better...


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have found that the 3 coat color changes are 2 for the most part. I have not yet had a one coat color change though.

When you say not spot prime, are not even hitting the repair with one coat of Aura prior to doing the entire wall?


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## KeirK (Nov 30, 2007)

Tony Galiardi said:


> I have been axious to try the Aura but at the price, the majority of the time two coats of Duration will cover just fine.
> 
> Has anybody use paints from AFM Safecoat or American Pride zero VOC paints? The Aura sounds as though it would be a similar make up. Just wondering if the Aura handles similarly.
> 
> ...


Tony,
I can speak to the American Pride Line as it is also manufactured by my Company SDP. American Pride Paint is probably the most technologically advanced product of its type, it is nothing like Aura in composition, Its tested using one of the countries most state of the Art polymer facilities. The product lays down very smoothly and has all the attributes you *want* in a paint without the toxins or odor. Additionally there are no special base coats for certain colors or anything different to do than what you normally do. Go to the website and look at the solids, this paint has great hiding charachteristics and is much cheaper that Aura. If your store doesnt carry it, ask them to, or go online and get a sample to try, you'll never go back I promise. 
Keir


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

It looks like Aura has higher solids, is self priming,

Aura matte 12.3 lb/gal Mythic 11.86 lb/gal
Film Aura 3.8 wet mils= 1.7 dry mils
Film Mythic 4.0 wet mils = 1.5 dry mils
Aura dry to recoat, touch, etc = 1 hr
Mythic dry to touch = 2 hr, dry to recoat 4 hrs (from Q&A section)

Mythic zero VOC including tints (what is the tint solvent though, since it says that large amounts of tint prolong dry time and waterbase tints seem to dry very fast?) It seems that the dry time is more like regular paints, not Aura so there must be some solvents added that slow the drying? I know Aura has some glycol on the paint, to keep it from dying too fast.

It looks interesting, but I cannot tell that it is anything other than a environmentally friendly paint. Any additional info. would be appreciated.


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## KeirK (Nov 30, 2007)

It is my understanding that the color pallet used by Aura contains selected colors to achieve the self priming characteristics, however as you can read from the other posts that is not necessarily the case. There is the need to use certain base primers to achieve the proper coverage/hide. It ads a margin for error and an extra step in the process as well as miscommunicated expense. What is most interesting is that the actual dry coat is actually more durable than the dry coat provided by Aura. In order to achieve the faster drying Aura uses solvents (VOC's, Carcinogens and toxins). Mythic dry time is intended to have drying time that is in-line with your expectations and not to falsely imply quicker dry time. Solvents evaporate faster than water, therefore, as certain tints are added to SDP products it can fluctuate the drying time to the maximum that you have quoted, typically dry time is the same as conventional products. It is the technology that creates solvent free drying with or without tint that makes it more unique, however the key factor is the performance of the product. The best measure for that is scrubability, SDP's products are the leading latex products in the market for durability. Its not just an environmentally friendly paint, its a better one. The best example is to look at our first customer, the Pentagon, They needed a product that was more durable than traditional paints, however, would not cause health problems during the rebuild after 911. Paint could be applied in offices while people were working without complaint or fear of off-gassing toxins. 
There are absolutely no Toxins in the paint, tint or otherwise. Does that mean we have to be compared as an environmental product or is it more important to understand the quality of the paint. We think that the environmental qualities are important, we also think that the health and safety of the consumer is important, but most of all when it comes down to brass tax, the paint has to be the best performing paint for the contractor and the project owner. Try it, its better. 
Keir


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The dry time for Aura is not falsely implied. Even the ultra deep reds dry in one hour, ready to recoat. From talking to the reps, the little solvent in Aura was to slow dry time, not increase it. All paints I have used require special primers to get the super deep, bright red colors in one coat primer and one or two top coat. With Aura, fewer reds need these primers. The deeps color's priming abilities do not seem compromised, just a little less hide. Since it does really self-prime, it is nice for repairs in repaint jobs. I do think, speaking from my experience, that some of the third coats are due to the learning curve of a different product.

Now, if your product is more washable in the flat or eggshell in a neutral base color, you definitely have something. If coverage is the same as Aura or better it would definitely be worth trying. One other area I am always interested in is adhesion. I always test new paint products to see how they adhere to unsanded gloss oil paint (have not done up a board yet to test Aura on adhesion yet).


I will see if your paint is available locally sometime (shipping latex paint to frozen MI is probably not the best way to test a paint right now, especially if it sits in a frozen truck overnight).


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## KeirK (Nov 30, 2007)

You are correct, I misspoke about Solvents/water, not sure how I did it, was at a trade show all day.... but the solvents add the ability for back brushing and set up time so coats can apply easily without drying to quickly. We have formulated without the need of solvents to offer the same ability. As for hide and coverage, as you may know, there is formulators preference on the decision for coverage, as you lay it out thinner you get more coverage but at the cost of performance or hide. Because of our technology we do not compromise and offer 400 sq ft, without compromise, in fact its more durable. Typically a formulator will find what they feel the balance of coverage/sag/hiding is based on there experience and what they believe the market needs. A gallon is a gallon though, and as you get into the more complex formulations the reality is that coverage will cap out at Sq footage that can be contained in a single can. Hide is based on certain bases in the formulation and more hide can often result in colors not getting to there full brightness. So these are all issues that the formulators grapple with, none of them are compromises, they are all what make the intended product fit into the marketplace. We have found our balance in our products along with a ton of new technology that is unavailable to the other manufacturers. Our products are multiple times more washable, and you are right there is more here than a "green" paint. I am not sure what your test proves as you are introducing foreign chemicals into the formulation by not prepping the surface, however I am eager to hear your results, (Haven't seen a test we don't win!). I have personally used our products over oil with good results, but I encourage everyone to try what makes them comfortable. Let me know if you don't find a store, we can definitely get product to you in MI, despite the fear of freezing. We will also rectify the need for a store in your area, if there is not. All I need is your recommendation to your local retailer after you try the product. 
Keir


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## porkchop (Nov 10, 2007)

Tony Galiardi said:


> Has anybody use paints from AFM Safecoat or American Pride zero VOC paints?
> http://www.afmsafecoat.com/
> 
> www.americanpridepaint.com/


Tony I have began using the American Pride exclusively. The paint has great quality and goes one in one coat, unlike the previous aura comments. As for the drying comments, I wait about 4 hours between coats of primer and paint.


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

dean, no spot prime


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

pork chop, I recoated Aura, dark red, 20 minutes, (not suppossed to but it was dry) covered perfect.


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## regal (Oct 23, 2007)

Adhesion test shouldnt be done for quite a while, I was told due to the formula.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

regal said:


> ... no spot prime


So far so good with what I would call reasonable decent sized drywall repair -two coats of mud on hand sized areas
It killed me to not spot prime...but I had to test it
Worked great
Granted that was with Matte (flashing not an issue)
I've got a chance to test the eggshell on similar repairs coming up



regal said:


> I recoated ... 20 minutes


I am also getting the feeling 1 hour is being generous
I didn't time it last time, but I'm sure it was 45 min. or less



regal said:


> Adhesion test shouldnt be done for quite a while...


I did a burnish test after a week...impressive...no issues


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

*Putty Over White*

One coat.....uhhhhh...nah
Not gonna do it

Still...the finish is great
Worth an upcharge for sure
No prime over hand and arm sized mud repairs
No flashing after the first coat-with the eggshell
Just that one coat didn't cut the mustard-could still see the white
With the quick re-coat and no-prime helped cut that part of the project's time budget from two days to one day, so even having to do two coats I still burned through it


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I almost got Georgian Brick in one coat over Navajo White. Just a little thin on the cut, the roll was good except for one spot that you could only see from 1 ft. away.


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## slickshift (Apr 8, 2007)

Mmm...yeah this was too thin on the cut I knew right away
I'm trying not to load it up as it gets drippy
I also stepped down to a 2.5 (Purdy XL, from my 3.0 Corona Cortez)f or that reason

I also tried a 1/2" 50/50 rather than the "Aura" sleeve
As the cut was thin also, I'm assuming it wasn't (just the) the Wool

I don't like using a 3/8, but the paint store only carries 3/8 in "Aura"
Maybe I'll try a 1/2" White Dove next time

To be fair, I'd think this might be a base 2 in Regal, but it's base 1 in Aura
I thought it could do it one coat


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

Will be finishing up a week long repaint using 21 gallons of Aura. (we just did walls no trim or ceilings)

here is a pic of One coat Aura Matte - BM olive branch over flat white painted by the builder 4 years ago.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MAK

Did you paint the coffers and panel details too?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> MAK
> 
> Did you paint the coffers and panel details too?


No, we just did walls, trim was all sprayed by builder 4 years ago. Client was just getting some color finally.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Love that aura coverage. Is that frog tape or a shadow on the chair rail? If frog tape, how do you like it?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> Love that aura coverage. Is that frog tape or a shadow on the chair rail? If frog tape, how do you like it?


good call, yes it is... 8 rolls of the stuff we used pretty hefty price tag for tape on this job. 

I actually did prefer it over regular blue, kleen edge (we sampled a few on this job to do some comparisons) and it was a match to orange core blue (for straight clean lines) but it has a little more tack to it.

As for the coverage the spred rate was not that good over flat paint and used more than I expected. On really long walls where you can view then from the angle I had to two coat to even out the matte finish.. Would of been worse if it was eggshell.


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Did you put the tape down after the cut, for roller spatter protection? Or do you cheat the tape back 1/8" so you can see your cut?


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

It was mostly for splatter - but I did use it on a few spots to see how clean the line would be. :whistling2:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

MAK-Deco said:


> It was mostly for splatter - but I did use it on a few spots to see how clean the line would be. :whistling2:


And certainly that was an exercise in frustration that you regretted.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

vermontpainter said:


> And certainly that was an exercise in frustration that you regretted.



It work out on some small baseboard areas and for my new helper in a few spots.


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## Painting 911 (Jul 28, 2008)

We just finished a 2100sq ft new const. house. We used aura on all the walls, I saved time (labor) and one full step. No primer needed. The walls looked great. My only regret is that I didnt use aura on the ceilings. I see now the aura is available in the exterior line. Has anyone used it yet??


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## IHATE_HOMEDEPOT (May 27, 2008)

This is a good place for me to chime in. I just painted an Exterior with Aura Flat in a fairly dark orange color (it was a color match) over white'ish color and it covered quite well in 1 coat. I sprayed it fairly liberally and back rolled it.To make up for the added cost of the paint I let the 1 coat fly. The stucco texture was smooth troweled which might have helped as far as coverage, no pits.


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## Dmax Consulting (Jul 22, 2008)

Is Aura a low-VOC product?


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Dmax Consulting said:


> Is Aura a low-VOC product?


Seriously?


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

All colors, interior and exterior, including 518 Extender if needed, are below 50 G/liter of VOC. Most colors are at around 13 G/liter.


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

i earn my money faster with aura interior

im not completely sold on the exterior,,,,,,its a great paint, but imo Duration, and Timeless are better.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

John, are you using Aura interior most of the time now? It sounds like you went from Sw to Graham and now to Aura on interior work?

What do you not like about exterior Aura?


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

dean, if someone wants a high quality flat, ill use grahams,,,,,i wish aura had a flat

the exterior aura is really nice paint, but i like the way duration floats out imperfections on old clapboards,,,,,,,the aura exterior does cover great though

i would also like if aura dried faster in high humidity

the extender they sell must be for the desert, because i dont need it here,,,,,,inside or out


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

That is true, the Graham is as flat as the washable finishes come. Aura seems a little lower sheen than regal matte though.


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## tsunamicontract (May 3, 2008)

the new formulation of Duration in "Matte" is almost Aura's egg shell in sheen.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

And the Aura Interior Eggshell is high in sheen for an eggshell IMO.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NACE said:


> And the Aura Interior Eggshell is high in sheen for an eggshell IMO.



I agree also...


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## johnthepainter (Apr 1, 2008)

mak-deco,,,i just spread about 25 gallons of the olive color you used on that interior,,


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

johnthepainter said:


> mak-deco,,,i just spread about 25 gallons of the olive color you used on that interior,,


Olive Branch?? if so its nice color and I have used it on a few occasions.


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