# install instructions



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Having a hard time decifering exactly how this one needs to be approached. Does this stuff require pre-trimming and/or double cutting. Liner? Special glue? Why do designers have to order this crap. I've installed a fair share of paper, but don't get into a ton of this super finnicky stuff..








Crowd (Where’s Warhol)


This 1963 silkscreen print was based off a 1955 newswire photograph taken of St. Peter’s Square in Rome on Easter Sunday. Flavor Paper felt the ebb and




www.flavorpaper.com


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

Wow wish i could help ya! Ive yet to ever do wallpaper. Cool looking stuff though


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I know nothing of doing wallpaper either. But I thought it was ugly as sin. Looked like the wall was covered in a deep shag carpet.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

If you scroll down on the page there is an installation guide section. The handscreen download suggest that it is untrimmed and recommends double cutting vs. table trimming. A tough install for sure. Price it high and be patient.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Gwarel said:


> If you scroll down on the page there is an installation guide section. The handscreen download suggest that it is untrimmed and recommends double cutting vs. table trimming. A tough install for sure. Price it high and be patient.


Thanks Gwarel. Long time no see. btw. It also looks like it recommends a liner & pre-trimming. Would you pre-trim even though you had to double-cut? Or is that redundant?


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

I have rarely used liner. The instructions suggest that it may help the seams lay flat, which to me is saying " you're going to have trouble with the seams". I would get the walls smooth and use R-35, and Clay Based Paste. If you plan to double cut over liner, you will have to protect the liner so that you don't cut into in and cause it to split. If you can pre-trim a good long line and it will butt together tight you won't have to double cut, and you should be able to see the match better this way. If you can't get an acceptable seam by pre-trimming, you will want to remove the white edge of the paper on the side that overlaps so that you can get a good match. The instructions mention to remove 1/8" to get the match, not much room for error! I think it might be worth the extra effort to paint the wall the color of the paper before sealing it with R-35. It looks like a busy pattern, so once you figure out the best method I don't think the seams will be jumping out at you. Good luck!


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## Vinyl 54X (Mar 12, 2019)

If its new walls you shouldn't need blank stock. Use a good clear paste.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Gwarel said:


> I have rarely used liner. The instructions suggest that it may help the seams lay flat, which to me is saying " you're going to have trouble with the seams". I would get the walls smooth and use R-35, and Clay Based Paste. If you plan to double cut over liner, you will have to protect the liner so that you don't cut into in and cause it to split. If you can pre-trim a good long line and it will butt together tight you won't have to double cut, and you should be able to see the match better this way. If you can't get an acceptable seam by pre-trimming, you will want to remove the white edge of the paper on the side that overlaps so that you can get a good match. The instructions mention to remove 1/8" to get the match, not much room for error! I think it might be worth the extra effort to paint the wall the color of the paper before sealing it with R-35. It looks like a busy pattern, so once you figure out the best method I don't think the seams will be jumping out at you. Good luck!


Thanks Gwarel. What is the purpose of R35? It looks to be an adhesion primer for difficult surfaces like tile etc? Which is kind of cool, but is it similar to Gardz?


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

finishesbykevyn said:


> Thanks Gwarel. What is the purpose of R35? It looks to be an adhesion primer for difficult surfaces like tile etc? Which is kind of cool, but is it similar to Gardz?


Yes, the R35 dries with tack to give some extra grip in your case. It can be used as you said over tile, glass, vinyl, etc. It is thin like Gardz, but it doesn't penetrate sheetrock mud like Gardz. I would say it is not meant to be used over new sheetrock, rather over primed or painted surfaces.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Sorry. I didnt see this. Flavor paper needs to be trimmed. Its great paper, and VERY expensive. it take a little more time, so charge large. It doesnt need a liner, as long as its not metallic. HOWEVER, if it recomends one, just show the client and bill for it. This stuff is pricey, so they shouldnt blink at an additional cost. Its usually nonwoven, so paste the wall. I line anything really shiny. The only flavor paper I've hung was andy warhol Muhamad Ali on shiny metal. Tough install.

I wouldnt use clay or r35. Clay is great, but messy, and not necessary for a normal paper. With a liner, you can prime with damn near anything, anyway. I would just go with Gardz, or 977, and for paste, 838, , dynamite 780, 234. If you have clay laying around, you could prepaste your seam areas with it to help them stay down.

It looks like that is metallic and shiny. ABSOLUTELY use a liner.

You also need to be careful smoothing it out. use a brand new smoother. You may even need to smooth it out by putting apiece of scrap liner or something over the area youre smoothing.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Not here to argue with you Woodco, but I re-read the instructions and it seems to recommend a blank stock liner, which is not meant to be primed. I will agree that if the material is non-woven the pasting the wall will work well with HD Clear and greatly simplify the installation. But, according to the OP the material is hand screened, which implies a lot of ink. For this type of material Strippable Clay has always worked best for me, as the heavy ink causes the paper to curl at the seams, and the clay dries much faster, holding the seam down better. I like to roll the paper after folding it, which seems to help relax the edges better as it books.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Gwarel said:


> Not here to argue with you Woodco, but I re-read the instructions and it seems to recommend a blank stock liner, which is not meant to be primed. I will agree that if the material is non-woven the pasting the wall will work well with HD Clear and greatly simplify the installation. But, according to the OP the material is hand screened, which implies a lot of ink. For this type of material Strippable Clay has always worked best for me, as the heavy ink causes the paper to curl at the seams, and the clay dries much faster, holding the seam down better. I like to roll the paper after folding it, which seems to help relax the edges better as it books.


I wasnt suggesting priming the liner. I meant that if liner is going up, the primer underneath doesnt matter as much. Sometimes I will roll a thin layer of paste on the liner to help seams lay down though.

I know what you mean by heavily inked papers and seam curling, but flavor paper isnt like what you're thinking.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

May sound like a silly question, but how does the liner benefit the "shiny mettalic"paper? Also @Woodco, would you double cut or just pre-trim. Or both? Not even sure if I can get Clay adhesive around here. This is why I curse designers who are just trigger happy. No clue.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

You should always line metallics because they show every tiny flaw in the wall. The liner acts like a cushion. If you double cut, you need to trim the white edges off so you can line the pattern up. Dont cut through the liner! When I did my muhammad Ali, I double cut on the liner, with a very light touch, and I checked it, and put seam tape in the spots I cut through. There were only a couple.. I wouldnt worry about using clay if you dont have any. Have VOV or 555 handy though if your seams give you trouble. I would just roll a thin coat of paste on the liner when you put it up, so it can dry overnight. it shouldnt be a big issue, but be ready for it.


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## Gwarel (May 8, 2012)

Hey Woodco, I just wanted to say that I remember when you first started posting about hanging paper, and I think you have learned a great deal about the craft. I'm happy to see how you have developed your talents, and I wish there were more on this site to share their experiences about paperhanging. Keep up the good work!


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

I didnt have any seam curling at all. Looking closer at yours, it looks like most colors are gonna be nonwoven shiny mylar, like what I did, but a couple of them (the pink and the pearl gold) are just coated paper. Maybe they are the ones with seam curling problems....


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Gwarel said:


> Hey Woodco, I just wanted to say that I remember when you first started posting about hanging paper, and I think you have learned a great deal about the craft. I'm happy to see how you have developed your talents, and I wish there were more on this site to share their experiences about paperhanging. Keep up the good work!


 Thanks. I joined the WIA, and we have a facebook group, with tons of members offering valuable advice. Tehres also this group, that you dont have to be a WIA member, and it has a lot of the same posts. Might want to post this there.... Facebook Groups


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

BTW, with that shiny mylar, one crease and its done.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Woodco said:


> BTW, with that shiny mylar, one crease and its done.


Oh great.  Makes you wonder why they make that crap, when theres some really nice papers that are much easier to work with.. Will make sure to have lots of cold beer in the fridge for afterwards... So again, would you paste the wall or the paper? Probably the paper and let it book for a while?


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

If its the nonwoven, you paste the wall. You cold mist the back to soften it up a little though. Its not crap, either. It looks really awesome, its just gotta be done right. Make sure your designer orders an extra panel or two. That Ali was $600 a strip. she ordered one extra for me, and I needed it! She also kicked me down an extra $500 for it. It was three walls in a powder room.

Get a sample from the designer so you can take it home, and play with it.


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## PPD (Mar 19, 2018)

Ok (yep its me here to bring back ur old thread )....just had to say: my first thought was that it was BROWN SHAG CARPET PAPER!


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

PPD said:


> Ok (yep its me here to bring back ur old thread )....just had to say: my first thought was that it was BROWN SHAG CARPET PAPER!


 It totally looks shag.! Lol. Thanks for rehashing this thread actually. After all my lost sleep and research, the client backed out at the last minute. So weird! Had the paper bought and everything. Blessing in disguise? Gives me time to mentally prepare for the next time..


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