# Grain filling



## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Normally I wouldn't bother on an oak cabinet set, but my designer is asking if I can.
For those of you who do this process, What are you using? How time consuming is this in the scheme of things so I know what to charge? Seems like a daunting and time consuming procedure. Anything I'm missing. I'll try to upload a pic..


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)




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## jacob33 (Jun 2, 2009)

What I have found works the best for me is a good oil primer sand it than three coats of oil finish sanding really well between coats. You can make the grain disappear. I have done grain filler before but honestly sanding the finish really well fills the grain just as well.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

jacob33 said:


> What I have found works the best for me is a good oil primer sand it than three coats of oil finish sanding really well between coats. You can make the grain disappear. I have done grain filler before but honestly sanding the finish really well fills the grain just as well.


 Thanks Jacob, Not really into using oil paints anymore. Mostly water based or hybrids for me. An extra primer or top coat is usually my method though as well.. I usually don't mind a little bit if grain showing..


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I use Timbermate it is a waterbased product. Dries hard and sands nicely. You can thin it with water to desired consistency and use a flexible putty knife to put it on. It handles about like dry wall mud but is much more durable. I have done several sets of oak cabinets with it and you can make the grain disappear. I do normal heavy scuff sand, timbermate x1, sand, two coat of BIN sand, then topcoat. You will easily double your prep time. Get the gallon size, you will find a bunch of uses for it. I have some that I have had for 10 years and it is still good. It has a phenolic compound in it to inhibit growth of mold and fungus. Smells like a bandaid. After you give the decorator the estimate she will probably change her mind. Check out the you tube videos on Timbermate.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Thanks Tprice. I did read some of your other posts on this too. Things change quickly sometimes but sounds like you stand by this method.
Where do you normally get this product?
Can you generally get away with 1 coat? 
Cheers



Tprice2193 said:


> I use Timbermate it is a waterbased product. Dries hard and sands nicely. You can thin it with water to desired consistency and use a flexible putty knife to put it on. It handles about like dry wall mud but is much more durable. I have done several sets of oak cabinets with it and you can make the grain disappear. I do normal heavy scuff sand, timbermate x1, sand, two coat of BIN sand, then topcoat. You will easily double your prep time. Get the gallon size, you will find a bunch of uses for it. I have some that I have had for 10 years and it is still good. It has a phenolic compound in it to inhibit growth of mold and fungus. Smells like a bandaid. After you give the decorator the estimate she will probably change her mind. Check out the you tube videos on Timbermate.


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

all grains are technically fillers. Oh wait....is this the farm bureau site? never mind.


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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

Timbermate has some good videos on YouTube about their product. Definitely worth your time if you end up using their product.

Another good product is Aqua Coat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LEFWGW...olid=1SZ6F5PON0PFB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I’d highly recommend billing your client on a T&M basis for this project. It’s very tough to accurately estimate the amount of time it’ll take to apply and sand the grain filler. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## futtyos (Aug 11, 2013)

*Barium sulphate, 5G and Durabond*

fbk, I just read that Timbermate is around 75% barium sulphate which is added to concrete to serve as a radiation shield:

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/barium_sulfate

I found this as well, though I don't know how directly it would apply to using Timbermate as far as its barium sulphate content goes:

https://www.everydayhealth.com/drugs/barium-sulfate

While I have not used Durabond to fill in oak cabinet surfaces, I have used it to skim coat doors that were orange-peeled, even after much sanding. At the hi rises in Chicago I paint at, all the entrance door insides have vertical waves. These could easily be seen after orbital sanding was done. I took the opportunity to fill in the waves and remaining orange-peel with 2 coats of Durabond. Durabond will stick like glue to just about anything and dries very, very hard, certainly hard enough for kitchen cabinets.

I cleaned, then sanded the inside of the entrance door with an orbital sander (which I doubt you would need to use for oak cabinets, just a sponge sander would be good enough I would imagine), then wiped down or vac'd again. Next I knifed on a thin coat of Durabond, taking care not to leave excess material. After this dried I scraped the surface with a 4-6" spackle knife, then spackled another coat of durabond onto the surface with the idea that the 2nd coat would sink into the first coat and make the surface smoother and harder. I sanded the suface with a stiff sponge sander, then vac's off the dust. 2 coats of BIN and 2 top coats of paint.

I don't know if this would be a practical method for oak cabinets, but there it is. I guess you could try one door for each method that is mentioned here, then make your own decision on which method to use.

futtyos


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

Fbk:. I ordered my Timbermate about 10 yr ago from Floormechanics.com. I finished 2500 sqft of 
Quartersawn white oak flooring and had a gallon and a half left over. l checked and they still have it $43 per gallon. You will use about a quart on the project you have pictured . The method described by futtyos is similar to what I do only I just use one coat. You will have to touch up a little and use your finger on end grain. When trying to hide grain I use two coats of BIN sand, fix any boogers, and topcoat with three coats of GF White Poly. I block sand between 2nd and 3rd coats. In order to hide grain I am using filler and finish. Depending on your priming and topcoat it maybe advised to do two full coats of filler. Timbermate does shrink a little. It will look smooth and show grain with first coat of finish. Two coats of Timbermate will minimize this. 

I would wear respiratory protection when sanding. From what I have read barium sulfate is no worse than titanium dioxide as far as health concerns. As @PNW Painter suggested try to do it for T&M that would protect you.


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