# Removing mill ink stamp from lumber?



## HeadHoncho

Anyone have any solutions to remove the mill stamp? 

I will be staining this with Ready Seal oil stain so there is concern for spotting.


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## RH

Don't deal with this type of thing anymore so I'm not sure what today's inks/dyes are like but I used to just sand it out if I couldn't prime over it.


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## PressurePros

Sanding is the only way to remove. Feather sand within another foot of the spot so you don't end up with a spot that shows up after staining. (not a user of Ready Seal but it will show up with most oils)

edit: especially on cedar


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## straight_lines

I don't know if feather sanding will work, unless you match the openness of the surrounding grain.


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## HeadHoncho

PressurePros said:


> Sanding is the only way to remove. Feather sand within another foot of the spot so you don't end up with a spot that shows up after staining. (not a user of Ready Seal but it will show up with most oils)
> 
> edit: especially on cedar


Thx, sounds like a job for the RO90!


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## HeadHoncho

straight_lines said:


> I don't know if feather sanding will work, unless you match the openness of the surrounding grain.


The stamps are only on the deck boards and I think they are smooth fur.


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## Gough

I'm not familiar with Ready Seal, but I'd also worry about mill glaze on the dimension lumber leading to color differences. It's one of those situations where it's always easier if you get called in at the beginning of the project. Sanding those 2x's on sawhorses would be a lot easier (especially for us Old Guys).

We got called it to bleach the timbers for a timber-framed house. Unfortunately, it was winter, the frame was up, sheathed, wired, plumbed, and insulated...but unheated. Had they called us earlier, it would have been one guy for less than a day. As it was, it was 6 of us for several days, bleaching, scrubbing, rinsing, dewatering, etc.


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## ROOMINADAY

I did 4 aged para-lam beams this summer that had Sharpie and Mill stamps all over. A couple of passes with the Festool and some SealCoat, followed by a few coats of varnish and you could never tell we sanded.


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## TNpainter

I always stained and as i came to the stamps put a little stain over the stamp the sand lightly with sandpaper. Having the wood damp with stain makes the stamps ink fade easily with a light sanding plus it didn't create a light spot. Wipe with rag and restain stamped area. Its quick and works like a charm. Good luck


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## PressurePros

TNpainter said:


> I always stained and as i came to the stamps put a little stain over the stamp the sand lightly with sandpaper. Having the wood damp with stain makes the stamps ink fade easily with a light sanding plus it didn't create a light spot. Wipe with rag and restain stamped area. Its quick and works like a charm. Good luck


Good tip, I'll have to try that. I have tried removing the stamps with solvents but the agitation may be the key.


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## Ultimate

Wow. In theory sounds doable. I learned me something today.


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## mudbone

HeadHoncho said:


> Anyone have any solutions to remove the mill stamp?
> 
> I will be staining this with Ready Seal oil stain so there is concern for spotting.


I'd be just as concerned with the spotting of the knots bleeding through!


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## Custom Brush Co.

Have you tried using acetone? Sanding can easily cause color differences. Acetone could likely lift the ink out of the would. I would try it with a saturated not dripping blue shop cloth or smooth painters rag.


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## TNpainter

I've been using my suggested method for years the stain helps lift the stamp with very little sanding just a little scuffing. With the stain on wood it doesn't discolor. Give it a try you'll be impressed i assure u.


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## mudbone

What about the knots?:blink: To see or" knot" to see is the question.


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## HeadHoncho

TNpainter said:


> I've been using my suggested method for years the stain helps lift the stamp with very little sanding just a little scuffing. With the stain on wood it doesn't discolor. Give it a try you'll be impressed i assure u.


We just tried what you suggested and it works perfectly! I noticed the more you saturate the stamp mark before and during sanding lightly the easier it comes off!!


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## TNpainter

HeadHoncho said:


> We just tried what you suggested and it works perfectly! I noticed the more you saturate the stamp mark before and during sanding lightly the easier it comes off!!


Glad i was able to help learned it from my father. we did lots of high end log homes.


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## TNpainter

mudbone said:


> What about the knots?:blink: To see or" knot" to see is the question.


What about the knots?


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## Bealsey1

TNPainter Good afternoon! I came across a forum in regards to removing mill stamps and noticed that you mentioned you had previous luck in saturating the stamp while staining and then sanding - can you please confirm what size grit of sandpaper you would use when going this route? I will be trying this on 5/4 pressure treated pine deck boards. Stain I will be using is ready seal. 

Thanks!


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## Brushman4

Necro thread:sad::vs_smirk::vs_mad:


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## SemiproJohn

Brushman4 said:


> Necro thread:sad::vs_smirk::vs_mad:



Yep, she has some years on her. Interesting how these come back to life.


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## Joe67

Yeah. But I was happy to have had this stain/sand method pointed out. Have to try it next time.


Somehow I doubt anyone in the original conversation will come back to answer.


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## Redux

Although an old thread, on the topic of ink stamp removal, although I wouldn’t use it for removing ink stamps for a stain grade finish, historically, the Stanley #70 box scraper was specifically used to remove ink stamps and stenciled lettering from wood shipping crates & boxes so the crates/boxes could be re-used and re-inked, hence the name box scraper. Got one in my collection that I repurposed for other uses.


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