# Your Go-To Cleaner/Deglosser



## monarchski (Jun 21, 2019)

Liquid Sander/Deglosser has been around a long time but there's a lot of new ones out like the M-1 Cleaner/Deglosser that say they are water based and better for the environment. Painting stained cabinets is big in my area right now and I'm looking for a better cleaner that I hopefully don't have to rinse off afterwards. I know the "liquid Sander" part is for homeowners and DIY's, we sand it thoroughly but what are you guys and gals using before you sand and prime? Something that won't cause issues with either a waterborne or alkyd primer?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

monarchski said:


> Liquid Sander/Deglosser has been around a long time but there's a lot of new ones out like the M-1 Cleaner/Deglosser that say they are water based and better for the environment. Painting stained cabinets is big in my area right now and I'm looking for a better cleaner that I hopefully don't have to rinse off afterwards. I know the "liquid Sander" part is for homeowners and DIY's, we sand it thoroughly but what are you guys and gals using before you sand and prime? Something that won't cause issues with either a waterborne or alkyd primer?


Dirtex


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Degreasers: Dirtex, Crud Cutter, Liquid TSP (phosphate free). 

I don't trust liquid sanders, prefer to mechanically de-gloss (sand).


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## celicaxx (May 29, 2015)

This isn't good for shellac, but generally the cleaners I use are Windex, ammonia, and isopropyl alcohol. Ammonia smells so using in occupied places isn't great. Windex as a general purpose cleaner for lighter stuff (it's essentially a dilluted combo of ammonia and alcohol...) and then ammonia and alcohol for heavier stuff. I don't think there's any real use in these things for deglossing, but they get stuff really clean.

Windex is generally weak enough to even use on latex wall paints to clean up minor stains, and ammonia generally won't hurt latex paint much (I've gotten different sheens with some paints, though) but alcohol obviously can melt some latex paints. I've never had alcohol mess with anything oil based, though.

For brush cleanup I used to use isopropyl alcohol to soak my brushes in a quart container after 1-2 jobs and comb them out, but weirdly now I've switched to a cleaner sold at Dollar Tree called "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner." It seems like a Simple Green knockoff, using some kind of alcohol as the main ingredient (Simple Green uses a type of alcohol as well.) Reason this started was I could get 91% isopropyl at Walmart for $2.50 per quart pre-Pandemic, but when it dried up, I decided to give the LA's Awesome Cleaner a whirl. I've not really used it a lot for prep, though, but it seems to work OK, but I trust Windex, ammonia, and alcohol alone most in not leaving any sort of soap film on things I'm cleaning. Never had an issue with applying paint after cleaning with Windex, ammonia, or alcohol.

I think denatured alcohol is actually worse of a cleaner than isopropyl, especially for things like circuit boards and plastics, because denatured alcohol is usually denatured with a small amount of acetone, so that small amount of acetone will actually start eating away at oil based paints and poly if you leave it on the surface too long, whereas isopropyl I've never had that happen.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

Simple green for me. Krud cutter is good too. They make a cleaner/deglosser. I wouldnt use it for deglossing, but i figure it can hurt for a presanding cleaner.


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

I just use eco tsp and dawn soap for everything. I keep a bucket of clean water and microfibre for wiping bubbles after. I certainly don't want to be cleaning with alcohol or harsh cleaners all day. Even crud cutter got a pretty heavy smell on it. If there is any reaaally greasy spots. I keep some Real TSP or MH close by..


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## Rbriggs82 (Jul 9, 2012)

I like the krud kutter prepaint cleaner/deglosser.


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

I like the Jasco no-rinse tsp, because I'm a terrible cleaner and always leave some on there.


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