# mad dog primer on cedar after paintshaver?



## 4sp (Sep 4, 2010)

I'm painting my dads house, a 100+ year old cedar clapboard house. I'm using my new paintshaver pro which does a pretty fast and amazing job at removing all the nasty old paint, leaving fresh clean wood. 

I was planning on doing a scrape-and-paint with Mad Dog and Aura/Duration, before I got the paintshaver. I have done some small patches priming with mad dog and topcoating with Aura and it seems to work great, supposedly blocking rust and tannin, and gluing down the corners and edges where the grinder misses(and I don't have the patience to remove completely...and I'm not exactly getting paid for this...). 

I'm wondering if anyone thinks this is a bad idea. Oil primer is a little cheaper, but not much(~$10/gal less), and mad dog is much easier to apply. I'm in new territory however, this is the first house I have stripped bare, so any advice would be much appreciated...my standard treatment for that last 10 years is oil spot prime followed by Duration.


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

I have old school tendencies and would be leaning towards a slow drying oil primer/stain blocker where ever needed.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I have old school tendencies and would be leaning towards a slow drying oil primer/stain blocker where ever needed.


Completely agree, the longer the drying the better in my opinion.

Pat


----------



## 4sp (Sep 4, 2010)

So Ben Moore fresh start fast dry is not recommended? Would A-100 oil primer be a slow-dry (if they still sell that)? $20 Zinseer oil primer is tempting, but I usually only use that on interior priming.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

The ben moore freshstart oil primer is a slow drying primer. at least here in california. 6-8 hours to touch and re-coat in 24 hours. if you can find something longer where you are then I would go with that.

Pat


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

4sp said:


> So Ben Moore fresh start fast dry is not recommended? Would A-100 oil primer be a slow-dry (if they still sell that)? $20 Zinseer oil primer is tempting, but I usually only use that on interior priming.


If you just got done striping the house, why would you want to use some cheap ass primer. This will defeat what you just did.

Pat


----------



## ReNt A PaInTeR (Dec 28, 2008)

Workaholic said:


> I have old school tendencies and would be leaning towards a slow drying oil primer/stain blocker where ever needed.


:thumbup:


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Like was said above, if you took all the time to strip the house, wouldn't it make sense to do it right now?


Everything I've seen and heard with renovating old wood sided houses involves treating the bare stripped wood with linseed oil first.

old wood boards are usually dried out completely of moisture and are brittle and crack. The linseed oil treatment puts moisture back into the wood and will take away its brittleness. This will allow the finish to stay good alot longer because the wood won't split nearly as much as it would without a linseed oil treatment. Then, you want a slow dry oil primer to soak into the wood.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

TJ Paint said:


> Like was said above, if you took all the time to strip the house, wouldn't it make sense to do it right now?
> 
> 
> Everything I've seen and heard with renovating old wood sided houses involves treating the bare stripped wood with linseed oil first.
> ...


Good point about the linseed oil treatment - It could make a huge difference on the how long the job will last.

My question would be would you use boiled linseed oil which from what I understand has drying agents in it or just plain raw linseed oil which does not. I could be wrong but that's what I always thought. 

Pat


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

there is a wait for the linseed oil to dry. we;re talking over a week.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

fourspeed a pro??


----------



## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

nEighter said:


> fourspeed a pro??


:no:


----------



## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Should report these new discoveries for making brittle wood not brittle with linseed oil to companies who make pressure treated lumber. I'd be willing to bet a board soaked in linseed oil for days wouldn't magically turn a old dried out board into anything else other than an old dried out board covered in linseed oil. 

Look how fast pressure treated lumber breaks down and dries out.


----------



## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

*Fres~Coat Troubleshooter® Alkyd/Linseed Oil Wood Primer*








This unique linseed oil one of a kind exterior primer provides superior performance as a base coat for all latex and oil base housepaint. It is formulated for maximum breathability and resists tannin and sugar bleed staining from most exterior woods including pressboard siding and rust stains from nail heads.​


----------



## 4sp (Sep 4, 2010)

Linseed oil sounds like a good idea, but the wood isn't that bad, it not cracking and warping much. If I can find that california primer I will try it. I guess I'm trying to do something with a fast recoat and I know that would take forever to dry. I'm painting sections as I strip them. I do understand that oil primer would add some oils back to the wood, but it gets brittle over time as it cures continuously, so I'm not sure it would last longer then a Mad Dog type primer. After all old brittle oil paint is the reason I have to strip it...


----------



## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

Dealer locater: http://www.californiapaints.com/DealerLocator.html

Don't let the name fool you. It's made right in your state.


----------



## PatsPainting (Mar 4, 2010)

jack pauhl said:


> I'd be willing to bet a board soaked in linseed oil for days wouldn't magically turn a old dried out board into anything else other than an old dried out board covered in linseed oil.


Yea I would bet too that a new board with primer and paint on it would be nothing but just a new piece of wood with primer and paint on it.

Pat


----------

