# Doors



## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

I looked at these fiberglass doors today, there are close to 100. They were gelstained and not maintained and now in rough shape, this is the worst. The HOA wants something that is less of a maintenance issue. Restained or painted, just looking for some different ideas. I have access to SW and ICI and a limited amount of BM, but it is a hassle to get. It has to dry fast cause access to doors is tricky.
Thanks


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

100 of them, in rough shape....paint em. You could re-stain them but doubt they want to pay, and obviously they don't keep up on them. What look do they want?


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

They are not happy with this, and want me to give some options, I used oil on the last set of doors I did and they were happy. But these have different style, I think just a brown paint would be best, rather go lighter.
Have to stain the shutters and posts too.


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

And there are only about a dozen that are that bad, that is on the South side.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

If they want a stained look, instead of stripping paint a flat base color over them. Then gel stain over that followed by a clear coat. The shutters and posts look like a semi-trans, redoing that is simple.


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

Thanks, the shutters were no problem. I just thought with all the new paints out there might be something like oil, but not oil.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Rob said:


> Thanks, the shutters were no problem. I just thought with all the new paints out there might be something like oil, but not oil.


There is .....Arborcoat. The doors are the biggest hurdle. Making them look good, with a quick return to service, and not astronomically expensive is the trick.


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

Thanks, and having to paint, stain and seal is a scheduling nightmare.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Rob said:


> Thanks, and having to paint, stain and seal is a scheduling nightmare.


Yup, but its still better than having to strip them. Just paint them and be done with it. If they want to fancy them up, add a kickplate lol.


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Ever try Insl-x silathane (2) ?

http://www.insl-x.com/viewProd.asp?prodID=513


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

I'd color match a color from a distance and paint them. They need a lot of work before you paint those. You are best stripping those... don't say no one warned you.

The deal with graining base methods are labor. 
1) strip those
2) apply graining base color
3) stain them (hate gels) I use solids
4) clear coat 1, clear coat 2, clear coat 3 clear coat 4
5) 18 months later, clear them again.

Best to paint.


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

I'd switch to a paint color that stood on its own, that had nothing to do with the shutters or posts.


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## BreatheEasyHP (Apr 24, 2011)

woodscapes acrylic solid stain.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I have some similar to those but I need to strip. The last paint job had been primed, stained, and cleared, but the primer failed and now all of them need to be stripped. IMHO, do not paint and then stain because once the fiberglass grain is filled, it does not look good with standard dry brush and/or wipe techniques. Looks more like a distressed glaze effect. I would prime and straight paint.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

DeanV said:


> I have some similar to those but I need to strip. The last paint job had been primed, stained, and cleared, but the primer failed and now all of them need to be stripped. IMHO, do not paint and then stain because once the fiberglass grain is filled, it does not look good with standard dry brush and/or wipe techniques. Looks more like a distressed glaze effect. I would prime and straight paint.


Yeah I have a couple in a area where we work where previous owners had painted the fiberglass doors right over the failing stain and clear, they have to be stripped and painted.

I still have not been happy with any primer I have tried on a fiberglass door that get direct sun, those things heat up and cooked the coating from the bottom out...


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

Here's mine. 1 coat Aura flat "bittersweet chocolate" over Behr dark green (similar to BM Chrome Green) then used Old Masters Spanish Oak wiping stain followed by Cetol Door and Window Dark Oak.


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## MAK-Deco (Apr 17, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> Here's mine. 1 coat Aura flat "bittersweet chocolate" over Behr dark green (similar to BM Chrome Green) then used Old Masters Spanish Oak wiping stain followed by Cetol Door and Window Dark Oak.


looks good, one question why not just use a clear and not the tinted Sikkens Dark Oak? Personal I don't care for the tinted Clear from Sikkens to me they never truly level off evenly...


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Here's mine. 1 coat Aura flat "bittersweet chocolate" over Behr dark green (similar to BM Chrome Green) then used Old Masters Spanish Oak wiping stain followed by Cetol Door and Window Dark Oak.


So the aura was a base coat? 

How did the stain lay down on top of paint? 

How much did the appearance change from the extra stain and sikkens?

If done again, would you just have used aura and saved the extra steps?

Looks real nice though.


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## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

NCPaint1 said:


> Here's mine. 1 coat Aura flat "bittersweet chocolate" over Behr dark green (similar to BM Chrome Green) then used Old Masters Spanish Oak wiping stain followed by Cetol Door and Window Dark Oak.


Not sure I get it?? Why all the different colors and products??


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> Not sure I get it?? Why all the different colors and products??


Because he sells paint. It was product testing.


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## Mike's QP (Jun 12, 2008)

the stain over paint works good, you want to use an eggshell when you do it so the stain wipes or brushes out better, it doesnt glide over flat paint that well, you need the base coat to get the right tones when you apply the stain and I imagine that the sikkens on top would act like a clear glazing effect like they use on interior cabinets instead of just your standard clear coat.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

Paradigmzz said:


> Because he sells paint. It was product testing.


I just wonder how long it would take to do 100 doors like this compared to two coats aura


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

aaron61 said:


> Not sure I get it?? Why all the different colors and products??


Depth. Since the door was painted previously, like Dean said I didn't want to fill the grain too much. I wanted more of a natural wood look so I painted a base coat, then used spainsh oak which is almost black. It was difficult to get a good look without having it look streaky. The dark oak poly helped blend the staining and make it look more natural.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> I just wonder how long it would take to do 100 doors like this compared to two coats aura


Of course longer, but still faster than stripping and re-staning. I guess it depends on what the HOA wants, and what they're willing to pay for.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Depth.
> Dean said I didn't want to fill the grain too much.
> 
> I wanted more of a natural wood look so I painted a base coat,
> ...


It seemed it would be difficult for the stain not to streak.


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> It seemed it would be difficult for the stain not to streak.


Yup, especially in direct sun. It tacked up fast, but even so with a wet stain rag it was fairly easy to blend. The streaking is actually helpful. If I did a straight clear it would have looked like chit I think. So the lightly pigmented clear really helped pull it all together.


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Yup, especially in direct sun.


You should have set up a tarp system to provide shade dude:thumbsup:


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## NCPaint1 (Aug 6, 2009)

TJ Paint said:


> You should have set up a tarp system to provide shade dude:thumbsup:


Pfffft. That's way too pro for me


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

NCPaint1 said:


> Pfffft. That's way too pro for me


me too:thumbsup:


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## TERRY365PAINTER (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks 
I really need to try this process with some of the doors I come across . Where the HO doesn't want to strip and just wants to go with something darker . I like the tarp idea maybe over the back of the van though .


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## sage (Apr 29, 2007)

Rob said:


> Thanks, the shutters were no problem. I just thought with all the new paints out there might be something like oil, but not oil.


 
S/W has a acrylic latex All Surface Enamel, I've used it many times, it covers well, levels well and is available in deep base. Available in Satin and Gloss I believe.
Sage


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## Rob (Aug 9, 2009)

jack pauhl said:


> I'd color match a color from a distance and paint them. They need a lot of work before you paint those. You are best stripping those... don't say no one warned you.
> 
> The deal with graining base methods are labor.
> 1) strip those
> ...


I don't think stripping is going to an option, what do you think is best prep method, you say a "lot of work".



Bender said:


> I'd switch to a paint color that stood on its own, that had nothing to do with the shutters or posts.


Right now that is my preference, thank you



BreatheEasyHP said:


> woodscapes acrylic solid stain.


I think that is still going to be a maintenance issue?



MAK-Deco said:


> Yeah I have a couple in a area where we work where previous owners had painted the fiberglass doors right over the failing stain and clear, they have to be stripped and painted.
> 
> I still have not been happy with any primer I have tried on a fiberglass door that get direct sun, those things heat up and cooked the coating from the bottom out...


Yeah, especially with the dark colors. I have done tons of doors by painting and staining with no problems and I am worried about failure on this scale!

Thanks for all the ideas.:thumbsup:


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## TJ Paint (Jun 18, 2009)

TERRY365PAINTER said:


> Thanks
> I really need to try this process with some of the doors I come across . Where the HO doesn't want to strip and just wants to go with something darker . I like the tarp idea maybe over the back of the van though .


Work smart. Might as well make it gravy plus u can save on sunscreen costs, lower your overhead!


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