# Conventional Airless Spray Systems



## Daekine (Mar 1, 2011)

So every once and a while I use our classes Conventional Airless Spray System to spray some walls. I really love using this thing and was wondering if anyone had any tips and tricks at all for making less drips? 

What do i do if a make a drip?

What is the best way to manage overspray to a minimum?

If i fix i drip will it be very noticealbe?


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

I'm not quite sure what to say....underneath your name you have "Pro Painter", yet you are asking DIY'er type questions. What classes airless sprayer do you borrow?

But here goes anyway:

1. Depends where the drip is. If you're talking on a work surface, you may be able to "touch" it off.

2. Use the right tip and dial in the correct pressure.

3. Depends on the surface and material used.

*4. Read the manual on the sprayer...it should have a trouble-shooting section.*


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## Daekine (Mar 1, 2011)

Well i just started using Conventional Airless Sprayers ive only used them about like 2-3 times i know how to use them for the most part and have watched others use it as well. Mabey someone can help me if i give them a better example of how i made drips. Lets say that the substrate is a wall that is primed with virtually no defects. I spray the wall, but make a big drip towards the middle or center of the wall. I heard that you can get brush it out quckly and spray over it again i just dont know exactly how well that works. I know the technique's necesary but i mean everyone makes mistakes once and a while using these, i just need more practice but would like more help on how to fix overspray :yes:


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Daekine said:


> Well i just started using Conventional Airless Sprayers ive only used them about like 2-3 times i know how to use them for the most part and have watched others use it as well. Mabey someone can help me if i give them a better example of how i made drips. Lets say that the substrate is a wall that is primed with virtually no defects. I spray the wall, but make a big drip towards the middle or center of the wall. I heard that you can get brush it out quckly and spray over it again i just dont know exactly how well that works. I know the technique's necesary but i mean everyone makes mistakes once and a while using these, i just need more practice but would like more help on how to fix overspray :yes:


You should be backrolling the walls anyways...You'd have no problems with drips or spitting.


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## LA Painter (Jul 28, 2009)

Survey Sez... 

DIY


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## Paint Works (Aug 1, 2007)

This website is to help all painters, right? I mean wether this kid had 1 year or 30 he sounds like he has chosen this as his trade and wether or not you guys think his questions are stupid I think we should show him some support. He's reaching out to get better. He's not implying he is a know it all. Anyway just saying. I'm sorta sick of all the smart &"$ comments all the time. Doesn't have anything to do with thick skin.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Paint Works said:


> This website is to help all painters, right? I mean wether this kid had 1 year or 30 he sounds like he has chosen this as his trade and wether or not you guys think his questions are stupid I think we should show him some support. He's reaching out to get better. He's not implying he is a know it all. Anyway just saying. I'm sorta sick of all the smart &"$ comments all the time. Doesn't have anything to do with thick skin.


I answered him didn't I? And, I don't see any offer of advice to him in your reply.


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

What do you mean by drip? Wolf gave a fair answer BTW. This is a pro site and there is a difference between "paint slinger" and professional. I know a ton of faces at my local paint shops, but it would be a long stretch to call them pro painters.

Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


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## dubinpainting (Feb 16, 2010)

Paradigmzz said:


> What do you mean by drip? Wolf gave a fair answer BTW. This is a pro site and there is a difference between "paint slinger" and professional. I know a ton of faces at my local paint shops, but it would be a long stretch to call them pro painters.
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Paint Talk


 


Truthfully Bro I see professionalism more as an attitude and not what you’re capable of doing. Some of my guys no more than I do, that doesn’t really matter to me because there making 12 an hour while I’m making $40.00 Plus. It takes a lot more then painting skills to run a successful business, but we should have already known that form previous threads. I don’t really think it matters too much what your skills are. There are guys out there that run $million painting companies that have never picked up a brush in their life.


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## Lambrecht (Feb 8, 2010)

Spray on your material then roll it out. Rolling pushes the material into the substrate, makes a slight stipple ( depending on roller nap size ie. 3/8", 1/2", 3/4"etc.) And leaves an even finish. With no runs or drips left behind.


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## Irishmike (Oct 7, 2010)

You're talking about runs on the surface right? Practice makes perfect you have to maintain a consistant distance from the wall/ceiling and also a consistant pace of spraying. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat also dont overthin your material. A spray finish is quite acceptable unless backrolling is specified by the contractor/homeowner. Take no notice of the smartasses best of luck to you happy spraying. p.s. if its wet enough to run then you can brush it off quickly with a DRY brush and mist again with the sprayer.:thumbup:


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## JoseyWales (Jan 8, 2011)

Irishmike said:


> You're talking about runs on the surface right? Practice makes perfect you have to maintain a consistant distance from the wall/ceiling and also a consistant pace of spraying. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat also dont overthin your material. A spray finish is quite acceptable unless backrolling is specified by the contractor/homeowner. Take no notice of the smartasses best of luck to you happy spraying. p.s. if its wet enough to run then you can brush it off quickly with a DRY brush and mist again with the sprayer.:thumbup:


What happens when he has to touch up later?...You can't touch up a sprayed wall...It always best to back roll....


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

Daekine said:


> Well i just started using Conventional Airless Sprayers ive only used them about like 2-3 times i know how to use them for the most part and have watched others use it as well. Mabey someone can help me if i give them a better example of how i made drips. Lets say that the substrate is a wall that is primed with virtually no defects. I spray the wall, but make a big drip towards the middle or center of the wall. I heard that you can get brush it out quckly and spray over it again i just dont know exactly how well that works. I know the technique's necesary but i mean everyone makes mistakes once and a while using these, i just need more practice but would like more help on how to fix overspray :yes:


IrishMike said it best. You cant arc your stroke. You have to stay the same distance from the wall at the top all the way through to the bottom. The best way to explain it is...

Don't spray with your shoulder, spray with your wrist.


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## Irishmike (Oct 7, 2010)

We had a big debate over here in the building boom where builders didnt want any spraying done at all because of that very reason... difficulty in touching up sprayed surfaces... these people had never heard of backrolling it was either brush, roll, or spray! I have equally spray finished vast furnitue showrooms in two passes with no objections or problems. I also have private homeowners who love the perfection of a sprayed wall!


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## Bender (Aug 10, 2008)

You might want to change your title though Eric.

With 3 years experience you can only be considered a professional in the Midwest and some parts of Southern California.


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## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Remember guys, he is in the Job Corps. 

Are we talking about splatters from the guard or are we talking about runs and sags?


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

IrishMike had it. Drips or runs aer the result of too much paint on the surface, obviously. Always better to err on the side of a thin coat while spraying, it will dry fast and it easy and quick to add another. Maintaining a consistent, ideal distance from the surface will give an even, thin coat. Keep practicing, you'll get muscle memory. 

And I assume you are just practicing on the wall, but on walls I always back-roll. On trim or doors I really hate to touch a sprayed finish with a roller or brush.


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## robladd (Nov 22, 2010)

Daekine said:


> So every once and a while I use our classes Conventional Airless Spray System to spray some walls. I really love using this thing and was wondering if anyone had any tips and tricks at all for making less drips?
> 
> What do i do if a make a drip?
> 
> ...


Daekin, I'm going out on a limb here. I have been a milspec painter for 30+ years
Bridges, Ships, Boats, Skyscrapers you name it, if have sprayed it. I have instructed at the international in the pass, but not anymore. Too many no habla and I'm not going to waste my breath, with some who doesn't habla. Send me a private message and maybe I can give you a private lesson or 2. Lord knows I won't be a trigger man 4 ever!


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Less material per coat, and or less thinning of material. You can't stop gravity.


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## Daekine (Mar 1, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> Remember guys, he is in the Job Corps.
> 
> Are we talking about splatters from the guard or are we talking about runs and sags?


Runs and sags


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## Daekine (Mar 1, 2011)

and just because im from job corps dosent mean i dont know what iam talking about, this place has had a bad rep but im a good kid:yes:


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Check your tip size. If you're having runs and sags you're laying too much material down. You can backroll/brush some of them out. Your best bet is to practice using the airless sprayer. Get to know the different tip sizes, pressure settings, and adjusting the speed of your spraying motion. It doesn't have to have full hiding coverage on the first spray application.


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Daekine said:


> and just because im from job corps dosent mean i dont know what iam talking about, this place has had a bad rep but im a good kid:yes:


Nobody is judging you or the job corps. I'm aware of alot of good things the job corps does do. Representing yourself as a Pro is somewhat questionable at your stage of experience. Get a few more years of solid, varied experience to where you can handle the majority of jobs and the majority of problem solving skills and then you can add the title to your name.

I've trained more than my share, giving them both hands-on and book experience and the average length of time for them to become adept and competent at most of the aspects of painting has been from 5-8 years. Patience and a desire to learn is a must.


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## TheRogueBristle (Mar 19, 2010)

Wolfgang said:


> It doesn't have to have full hiding coverage on the first spray application.


This is the truth. Using a latex primer that dries fast? Hit it lightly and you can come back to it within an hour and hit it again for coverage. It will be better than dealing with runs and sags.


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## Metro M & L (Jul 21, 2009)

Runs and sags on walls = not moving before pulling the trigger. You need to be moving your arm before you pull the trigger.

Passes should be 50/50. Each pass should overlap the previous one by 50%. There are tails in the tips to give you a line to aim at.


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## canadianpainter (Mar 7, 2009)

Metro M & L said:


> There are tails in the tips to give you a line to aim at.


Eeek! You aren't supposed to have tails when you spray. If you're getting tails your material is probably too thick, the tip is worn or there's not enough pressure.


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