# Sherwins Pro Industrial Epoxy



## ThreeSistersPainting (Jan 7, 2017)

I have a client who ordered 2 electric outside blinds and the casing is two shades off in color compared to the trim its mounted on.

Its a thick powder coated aluminum and the company is telling my client that "they paint them all the time". Of course this makes me skeptical about the longetivity of a product applied over the powder coat. They are installed on windows under the patio so there isnt any direct light, I am looking at an industrial coating of sorts. I am considering Sherwins Industrial Epoxy but can it be tinted to match trim color?
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...oxy#data-sheet

I am not worried about the process of painting them, only the product.


----------



## lilpaintchic (Jul 9, 2014)

I'd start with a scuff and a bonding primer then you can do whatever you want. Dtm,breakthrough,whatever...heck, you could probably just use the trim paint at that point. The prep/prime is the key.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Everything can be painted.
I used to paint powder coated drip caps all the time.
Powder coating eventually fails, everything fails, that's how paint is designed, to be sacrificial. That being said anything you put on won't last as long as the powder coating.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk


----------



## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

PPG Amerlock sealer and PSX 700 or PSX 1 would give great longevity on weathering, color and gloss.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

Curious, why decide to use the epoxy? 

Another popular option would be a DTM or my personal favorite for exterior is SherCryl HPA. 

Depends on the situation of course. Will it be handled or have moving components rubbing up against it, sun exposure levels, etc. etc.

Chances are if it's a blind cover, automated or not, I would prime it and use SherCryl.


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

If you want to stick with the convenience of the SW stock and location near you, just use a DTM Primer like Pro-Cryl and top coat it with any number of their water borne acrylics. SW acrylics will likely be much easier to color match than their industrial two component products.More info https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPROTECT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B66W310

If you want a sprayed finish, the siloxane or a polyurethane will give you the best result. Avoid using epoxy as a top coat where it will receive extended sun exposure. It will surely chalk and dull out. Kind of like Shercryl does.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

CApainter said:


> It will surely chalk and dull out. Kind of like Shercryl does.


SherCryl HPA? I'd like to see some projects that are chalked and dulled out real bad. I haven't seen one yet. 

It's one of the few metal spec'd acrylics that has excellent gloss and color retention. On par with the Urethane technology, maybe even with an edge on it. 

Oil based stuff will chalk and dull fast, I've seen a 400+ unit condo complex that had to redo all their doors, garage doors, trim after only 2 years because they used oil and it looked like it had been there for over 7 years. Dull and chalky. Switched to water base and problem solved.


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

woodcoyote said:


> SherCryl HPA? I'd like to see some projects that are chalked and dulled out real bad. I haven't seen one yet.
> 
> It's one of the few metal spec'd acrylics that has excellent gloss and color retention. On par with the Urethane technology, maybe even with an edge on it.
> 
> Oil based stuff will chalk and dull fast, I've seen a 400+ unit condo complex that had to redo all their doors, garage doors, trim after only 2 years because they used oil and it looked like it had been there for over 7 years. Dull and chalky. Switched to water base and problem solved.


You would be appalled. Just today I was rubbing my hand over a very chalky surface of Shercryl I applied about four years ago. I literally could make a brown hand print with the chalky residue. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. Granted, it's a dark brown color that's facing about thirteen hours of sun each day. And the semi gloss might as well be eggshell since it dulls to that finish after a year.

I'm going to check the TDS, but I believe Shercryl has a hydrocarbon component to it. 
Edit: Apparently, it doesn't.


----------



## woodcoyote (Dec 30, 2012)

CApainter said:


> You would be appalled. Just today I was rubbing my hand over a very chalky surface of Shercryl I applied about four years ago. I literally could make a brown hand print with the chalky residue. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. Granted, it's a dark brown color that's facing about thirteen hours of sun each day. And the semi gloss might as well be eggshell since it dulls to that finish after a year.
> 
> I'm going to check the TDS, but I believe Shercryl has a hydrocarbon component to it.
> Edit: Apparently, it doesn't.


Yes, very interesting. They have the SherCryl 1300 and HPA. If i remember right they were reformulating something either this year or last year, in the SherCryl line. I'll check tomorrow.

Shouldn't be having those issues. I've used it on several jobs and it still looks good. 

Yeah post some pictures. Would like to see what it looks like. Was it direct to metal or what was your prep process like? Just curious.


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

woodcoyote said:


> Yes, very interesting. They have the SherCryl 1300 and HPA. If i remember right they were reformulating something either this year or last year, in the SherCryl line. I'll check tomorrow.
> 
> Shouldn't be having those issues. I've used it on several jobs and it still looks good.
> 
> Yeah post some pictures. Would like to see what it looks like. Was it direct to metal or what was your prep process like? Just curious.


After pressure washing, I spray applied (AAA) the SW Bonding primer (straight white no tint as recommended) followed by one coat of ever so slightly thinned Shercryl over what we believed to be Kynar coated metal siding that had dulled out over a period of about twenty years.

The SW coating system I applied has held up extremely well in the last five years, in terms of adhesion. But the sheen and color retention aggrivates my IBS every time I look at it.


----------

