# Conversion Varnish



## 503rdIN (Mar 24, 2021)

I've been asked to build a 8/4 walnut table, customer doesn't want breadboard ends so a pretty easy build with my domino. On to the hard part.....He wants the toughest finish...I am thinking conversion varnish. I have never sprayed it before. He doesn't want something that would leave glass rings from glasses so I think lacquer is out of the question. What would be a good product that is clear and would look great over unfinished raw walnut? I typically use SW products bc I have an industrial coatings shop 5 minutes from me, but Im open to other products that work easier. As far as equipment I have a 5 stage apollo with atomizer bottom feed.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Acid cured Conversion varnish, 2K isocyanate polyurethane (general finishes for example).

The main difference between these and a lacquer is they have A LOT longer open time so it must sprayed in a dust free environment. 2K poly and CV also do not 'burn' into themselves like a lacquer does so it requires a dust free surface between coats as well. The cured product is worth the effort though. Another option would be to pour an epoxy.

Here is a table I sprayed with CV last year


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Table


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## 503rdIN (Mar 24, 2021)

I dont know if my spray tent will be big enough for this build, so finding a dust free area will be a challenge


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## fromthenorthwest (May 2, 2012)

503rdIN said:


> I dont know if my spray tent will be big enough for this build, so finding a dust free area will be a challenge


Could you do a custom spray tent with plastic and zip walls and or tape?


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## 503rdIN (Mar 24, 2021)

Might be my only option. My shop is wayyy to dusty


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

You don't need to spray epoxy. Brush or foam applicators. It will flow out like nobody's business. It also has hardly any smell. Could do it in your house if you wanted. Can finish sand it with 1500 or the likes if any contamination lands on it.


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## 503rdIN (Mar 24, 2021)

I actually do a ton of resin work, not a fan of it for table tops. Customer isn't either. Ive done 100s of resin tops and they are honestly more for art than functional. They scratch easy and are difficult to buff out. It also does t hand movement on hardwood well.


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## 503rdIN (Mar 24, 2021)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Acid cured Conversion varnish, 2K isocyanate polyurethane (general finishes for example).
> 
> The main difference between these and a lacquer is they have A LOT longer open time so it must sprayed in a dust free environment. 2K poly and CV also do not 'burn' into themselves like a lacquer does so it requires a dust free surface between coats as well. The cured product is worth the effort though. Another option would be to pour an epoxy.
> 
> Here is a table I sprayed with CV last year


Would you recommend 1.3 tip, B cap with what pressure setting? Any thining with this product? Directions look so much easier than SW CV


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

503rdIN said:


> Would you recommend 1.3 tip, B cap with what pressure setting? Any thining with this product? Directions look so much easier than SW CV


1.3 should be fine without thinning, I would start maybe 7psi and see how it sprays.
I believe GF has an apollo sprayer in their shop,you can call them and ask for specifics. Ask for Bill.


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## paintpeddlermbslbs (Jan 8, 2021)

503rdIN said:


> I've been asked to build a 8/4 walnut table, customer doesn't want breadboard ends so a pretty easy build with my domino. On to the hard part.....He wants the toughest finish...I am thinking conversion varnish. I have never sprayed it before. He doesn't want something that would leave glass rings from glasses so I think lacquer is out of the question. What would be a good product that is clear and would look great over unfinished raw walnut? I typically use SW products bc I have an industrial coatings shop 5 minutes from me, but Im open to other products that work easier. As far as equipment I have a 5 stage apollo with atomizer bottom feed.


Would Osmo finishes be an option? I see them used in many builds like this.


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## Woodco (Nov 19, 2016)

paintpeddlermbslbs said:


> Would Osmo finishes be an option? I see them used in many builds like this.
> 
> View attachment 111857


Thats a totally different kind of finish. Its not really even a 'finish' per se. Good for cutting boards and butcher block style counters.


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## paintpeddlermbslbs (Jan 8, 2021)

Woodco said:


> Thats a totally different kind of finish. Its not really even a 'finish' per se. Good for cutting boards and butcher block style counters.


They make many types of finishes. Very easy to maintain and if it will take the abuse on a floor it will be durable enough for most applications. Just thinking out loud.

All The Best,


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

paintpeddlermbslbs said:


> They make many types of finishes. Very easy to maintain and if it will take the abuse on a floor it will be durable enough for most applications. Just thinking out loud.
> 
> All The Best,


I carry osmo, its essentially PTO and some carnuba wax. Not at that durable especially when compared to a conversion varnish.
It is easier to apply and maintain though, I like it on butcherblock. On a high use table can't say I would recommend it.


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## irishjim21 (Feb 2, 2017)

I build and finish things like this for a living. I use MLC Krystal in dull which is a post cat CV. Looks amazing in walnut. And is tough as nails.


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