# Re-staining door



## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

a stain grade door was purchased for a new office. All the doors in this building are a factory finished laminant (on the red side) looking finish. The new doors grain is not the same and I’m not experienced in woods. I use the same stain I use to touch up scratches on original doors. The stain grade door turned out brown and my boss wants me to re-stain it. What are the chances of getting this door to resemble the factory doors?


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Debatsdirc said:


> a stain grade door was purchased for a new office. All the doors in this building are a factory finished laminant (on the red side) looking finish. The new doors grain is not the same and I’m not experienced in woods. I use the same stain I use to touch up scratches on original doors. The stain grade door turned out brown and my boss wants me to re-stain it. What are the chances of getting this door to resemble the factory doors?


post a picture please


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Gonna be tough to get a match without alot of experimenting. Even then, all woods and veneers will take stain differently. Good luck!


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

finishesbykevyn said:


> *Gonna be tough to get a match without alot of experimenting*. Even then, all woods and veneers will take stain differently. Good luck!


What Kevyn said. You need a bunch of wood that is _exactly _the same species and, preferably, with similar grain characteristics. And you need a whole bunch of stains in similar colors to the originals. And you need to experiment and compare to the originals until you find the right thing. It it deceptively difficult. If working with the same brand/chemistry of stains don't be afraid to experiment with ad hoc mixtures. (E.g. that one's a little too light and that one a little too red - mix a tsp of each together, stir and see what happens). You'll need to play with it. Matching stains is nothing like matching paints. So many variables and the computers can't help you.


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## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> post a picture please





cocomonkeynuts said:


> post a picture please


A coworker stripped sanded and put the red stain on the new door right. Original door is on left.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Apr 14, 2017)

Your co working did a crap job stripping it and/or the stain has gone bad. You'll probably need to completely strip it all off 60-120 grit, and possibly water pop to get the color to absorb that dark.

what stain product is being used?


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## Redux (Oct 27, 2018)

The veneer is toast..looks like it’s been sanded through @ the top & bottom of the window lite opening.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Debatsdirc said:


> a stain grade door was purchased for a new office. All the doors in this building are a factory finished laminant (on the red side) looking finish. The new doors grain is not the same and I’m not experienced in woods. I use the same stain I use to touch up scratches on original doors. The stain grade door turned out brown and my boss wants me to re-stain it. What are the chances of getting this door to resemble the factory doors?





Debatsdirc said:


> A coworker stripped sanded and put the red stain on the new door right. Original door is on left.


ive run into the this recently.

I was using polyurethane.
I just tinted the poly with the stain (start with a little) and spray a few thin layers until you get the color and depth right. You can tweak the color as you go. Spray a thin layer, see how it looks, repeat.
Add about an ounce of stain (maybe a little less) to a quart of poly...

Let it dry overnight before declaring. It will look fine. The more poly you put on, the smoother you can make it.

*HVLP would be best, but I suppose if you don’t have one you could still brush it out.


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## kmp (Jan 30, 2011)

Looks like it is time for a new door. Redux is right the veneer has been sanded through and would be almost impossible to fix at least in a cost efficient way. Birch veneer is paper thin and once it is damaged it is time to replace.


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

I'm with the others who say it's toast, so your only two choices are to get a new door or go with what Holland said above.


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## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

cocomonkeynuts said:


> Your co working did a crap job stripping it and/or the stain has gone bad. You'll probably need to completely strip it all off 60-120 grit, and possibly water pop to get the color to absorb that dark.
> 
> what stain product is being used?


That’s because he’s not a painter. He’s one of those people who thinks that they know everything and he thought he was going to save the day. So, I just left him go. My bosses have no painting experience. They know nothing about paining and demanded I do the door and make it look good. Even though I explain to them the situation they won’t listen to me. I’ve been painting for 16 years.


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## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

Debatsdirc said:


> That’s because he’s not a painter. He’s one of those people who thinks that they know everything and he thought he was going to save the day. So, I just left him go. My bosses have no painting experience. They know nothing about paining and demanded I do the door and make it look good. Even though I explain to them the situation they won’t listen to me. I’ve been painting for 16 years.


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## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

I have another question. They have a bunch of factory doors that match but they’re scratched. I can touch up the scratches with stain to make it not so noticeable but you can still see the scratches. Would it be easier to redo the original factory finished door then try to stain a stain grade door to match?


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## finishesbykevyn (Apr 14, 2010)

Are you sure its the same stain? Almost looks like a solid stain. Either that or it was never dry wiped or had multiple coats. Its really dark!


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## Debatsdirc (Oct 30, 2019)

Redux said:


> The veneer is toast..looks like it’s been sanded through @ the top & bottom of the window lite opening.
> 
> View attachment 110976


Yep, I know😩


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

Sounds like your boss should spring for a new door...or, are you on the hook and trying to make the best of a bad situation? 

If the later, layering the "tinted varnish" will hide the grain (and to some extent the damaged areas). 
I didn't notice Redux's post when I commented earlier, but agree that's going to be difficult to hide.


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## Holland (Feb 18, 2011)

example of darkened poly I worked on recently:


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## Joe67 (Aug 12, 2016)

Debatsdirc said:


> I have another question. They have a bunch of factory doors that match but they’re scratched. I can touch up the scratches with stain to make it not so noticeable but you can still see the scratches. Would it be easier to redo the original factory finished door then try to stain a stain grade door to match?


Seems to me that there is no harm in trying that. What's the worst that can happen? And if you make it work, it's the quickest, easiest way. My plan B would be the tinted poly that Holland mentioned. Or maybe even do some experiments with a faux finish with woodgraining.


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