# poplar wood/45's



## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

My question is regarding new construction painting of poplar wood. Not sure of the kiln drying process but here in WV there is difficulty I am having and seeing in other projects and hope for an answer.

I notice the 45's on the trim open up after I have used either wood filler/caulk or both.

There has to be a solution for this.

Should I switch to something with maximum elastomeric or something like big stretch caulk......

it is frustrating that this is happening and when I had been involved in NC in Washington state for two years, I never saw this happening.

I have seen in homes from this previous builder-this has and is an issue.

Can anyone shed some light on this and have suggestions?

thanks-


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## Harry (Aug 4, 2008)

sagebrush123 said:


> My question is regarding new construction painting of poplar wood. Not sure of the kiln drying process but here in WV there is difficulty I am having and seeing in other projects and hope for an answer.
> 
> I notice the 45's on the trim open up after I have used either wood filler/caulk or both.
> 
> ...


Too tough to seal them a bit first?


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## Paradigmzz (May 5, 2010)

sagebrush123 said:


> My question is regarding new construction painting of poplar wood. Not sure of the kiln drying process but here in WV there is difficulty I am having and seeing in other projects and hope for an answer.
> 
> I notice the 45's on the trim open up after I have used either wood filler/caulk or both.
> 
> ...



Have the GC hire a better carpenter. They should be using wood glue on joints...Apparently, they are not. 


Just my 10 cents....


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

too tough to seal what? nothing would be out of the question for me to do.....I jump all kinds of hoops Harry...even Harry's hoops!


are you saying to seal the raw edge of the 45? the woood comes pre-primed but on the three edges only.

and the first trim guy was using wood glue---I think it was gorilla glue-but not the expanding kind.......maybe he skipped some he thought were tight.....

what can I do on my end now that they are hung-

and I will pass along anything on the next project.

thanks for the suggestions.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Carpenters problem not yours. Nothing you can do if the trim is moving that much.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Carpenters problem not yours. Nothing you can do if the trim is moving that much.


I agree, shouldn't be your problem. Unfortunately many times gaps like that arent' noticed until Woody is long gone, and with deadlines looming it's expected for the painter to somehow fix it. If the wood was kept somewhere damp, or outside under a tarp etc..., and it was nailed before it was dry... sure it's gonna open up, gap city. Gc can have Woody come back and replace some boards, or you'll end up piling a bunch of caulking in every corner. again... I do not miss NC....


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

straight lines--

it may well be a carpenters issue-BUUUUUT--

I want it to look pretty and nice and a closed continuous unit.

and the NEXT project I come to.....I am going to get this problem solved because they(GC and trim guys) say it is the process of the kiln drying or lack of a proper drying or non stable temperature/environment......

I have a little attachment to an outcome that must look sharp.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Bro there is nothing you can do as a painter if there is that much movement after the trim is installed and painted. Is the trim carpenter nailing the corners through the side?

It could be the trim shrinking because it wasn't dry enough, or the wall, floor moving as well.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

straight_lines said:


> Bro there is nothing you can do as a painter if there is that much movement after the trim is installed and painted. Is the trim carpenter nailing the corners through the side?
> 
> It could be the trim shrinking because it wasn't dry enough, or the wall, floor moving as well.


I think Sagebrush is a chick not a dude SL.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Excuse me if that is true.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

I don't take offense.....I am a woman.

Yes there are nails in at the edge going inward also toward the top and bottom.....

no one else is concerned...Ijust wanted it to be closed for good.

I think the wood is not dried right or long enough....

I am gonna switch to another type of caulk at the corner joints.....
just for ****s and giggles.....arty:

pulling out the big stretch and I will report my findings.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

don't take this personally...but that squirrel is a male for sure!


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

sagebrush123 said:


> don't take this personally...but that squirrel is a male for sure!


Nah, he is just nuts!


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

sagebrush123 said:


> I am going to get this problem solved because they(GC and trim guys) say it is the process of the kiln drying or lack of a proper drying or non stable temperature/environment......
> 
> I have a little attachment to an outcome that must look sharp.


I've seen it happen more because they're to cheap to turn the heat on, and the fluctuation in temps cause the wood to expand a shrink up. But, if both the gc and the trim guys are citing those reasons for the gaps, but yet the "ok" is given to cut and install the trim, how is that your problem when the gaps occur. They don't want to pay the money to keep a constant temp while no one is living there, but yet they want you to go back 2 or 3 times, on your dime, to recaulk corners that keep opening up. ahh fooey


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

RCP said:


> Nah, he is just nuts!


ahh RCP, i remember outing you as a woman many threads ago too! Now that you have your photo as your avatar there is no confusion anymore. :jester:


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

Simply sounds like inadequate acclimation. Here in Ohio it's been a very damp year to date. Nothing is drying out the way it should.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

I just want it to look like solid.

We have had the air on since the wood got there and it is at 70. but very humid as it probably is in Pa.....

there is no fight over it with anyone at work. I always think "they " don't really care enough and I want a solution.......

I can't keep burning the midnight oil over this though-

I am off to rest.:surrender:


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## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Different Strokes said:


> ahh RCP, i remember outing you as a woman many threads ago too! Now that you have your photo as your avatar there is no confusion anymore. :jester:


LOL, that was funny, but nothing like when Wiseypoo found out I was over at CT! Glad you like my photo, I was a little apprehensive about showing my pussy.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

thanks for the replies. We have the same weather Jack over here in WV.

having moved back here from san diego has been a huge adjustment to this climate again.....I don't remember growing up and all this rain, and we have Kudzu growing everywhere it looks like a jungle on the hillsides.

that is why it is so green-to look at the positive aspects.


I like the house "diamond in the rough" photo looks like a great project.


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## sagebrush123 (Mar 11, 2011)

rcp- I was gonna make a funny on the cat- but thoughtit more appropriate not too......and I left the typo for fun!


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## jack pauhl (Nov 10, 2008)

sagebrush123 said:


> thanks for the replies. We have the same weather Jack over here in WV.
> 
> having moved back here from san diego has been a huge adjustment to this climate again.....I don't remember growing up and all this rain, and we have Kudzu growing everywhere it looks like a jungle on the hillsides.
> 
> ...


Its very common for the lumber companies to unload the trim and doors on newly poured garage floors with nothing more than a few shims between the trim and the floor. Then the trim guy comes the next day to install it, damp. 

If it was damp at the yard, damp when loaded, damp when dropped off on a damp concrete floor - it sure is getting installed damp too. 

I have seen a few builders using heavy duty saw horses to keep the trim off the floor and they let the trim acclimate in the house if need be. Some builders understand it, many do not.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

RCP said:


> LOL, that was funny, but nothing like when Wiseypoo found out I was over at CT! Glad you like my photo, I was a little apprehensive about showing my pussy.


you just absolutely made my day. :lol::lol::lol::clap:


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## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

We deal with a butt ton of raw poplar on nc interior trim packages. On our current projects, we are running it through our shop. It arrives dry, we double check for mc, sand, break edges and oil prime all sides. This is the best way to try to ensure dimensional stability. 

NC jobsites, in any season, the interior climates go through alot of upheaval and humidity/moisture challenges. First, all the framing lumber is high mc. Then insulation comes in and guarantees a slow breath out from the building envelope. Then drywall encapsulates it, and 50 gallons of mud (moisture) are put on, then we spray primer on the drywall and paint on the ceilings and walls, introducing a whole nother level of moisture to the interior climate. Then, the trim game begins. If the trim is brought in too dry and raw, it immediately starts absorbing all of the moisture in the air (if it is raw). Then it starts to stabilize and that is where joints move. 

Alot of it is in the carpentry. On trim packages where the casing systems are assembled (kreg screws) and applied as units, it is never an issue. So, prefinishing (backpriming) and proper carpentry installation, along with best efforts at dehumidification of the space are really the best we can do when working with organic materials like wood. 

The joint issue is not a function of your caulking or filler. Those are small spits in a big ocean of complicating factors.


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## Different Strokes (Dec 8, 2010)

vermontpainter said:


> We deal with a butt ton of raw poplar on nc interior trim packages. On our current projects, we are running it through our shop. It arrives dry, we double check for mc, sand, break edges and oil prime all sides. This is the best way to try to ensure dimensional stability.
> 
> NC jobsites, in any season, the interior climates go through alot of upheaval and humidity/moisture challenges. First, all the framing lumber is high mc. Then insulation comes in and guarantees a slow breath out from the building envelope. Then drywall encapsulates it, and 50 gallons of mud (moisture) are put on, then we spray primer on the drywall and paint on the ceilings and walls, introducing a whole nother level of moisture to the interior climate. Then, the trim game begins. If the trim is brought in too dry and raw, it immediately starts absorbing all of the moisture in the air (if it is raw). Then it starts to stabilize and that is where joints move.
> 
> ...


The man cometh, speaketh, and is on to the next threadeth. 

good post VP :yes:


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