# bilco door re paint



## mrpaintman (Dec 1, 2017)

I have a very particular client who will want these doors to have practically a mirror like finish. Lots of prior paint peeling and flaking. Besides the obvious, scraping, sanding, thoughts on what to do to even out the prior spots? Was thinking bondo but have never used before. Will most likely be using SW resilience as the top coat. 

Thanks


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

I would sand out what I could and then use an oil based primer (cover stain) at least two coats sanding between coats. Major dents could be filled with bondo and feathered prior to priming. I havent used resilience but I would do at least two topcoats sanding between coats. The idea is to get a enough build to smooth the surface in the areas that have peeled. I would not use a waterboure urethane alkyd (emerald trim) here. There are some reports of failures on large flat surfaces.


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## Wildbill7145 (Apr 30, 2014)

Looks like it's made of plywood. Gotta wonder if just picking up a new sheet of 3/4" finished one side, cutting to size, priming and painting would be an easier option.

Those are seriously fussy customers who want their cellar door to have a mirror finish, but to each their own.

Edit: Well I'm completely wrong. Had never heard of Bilco before. Things probably made of steel or polyethylene from the looks of things on the web. Never mind my suggestion of plywood. lol.


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## Gymschu (Mar 11, 2011)

I do a LOT of those BILCO doors. I usually sand, prime with rusty metal primer, and topcoat with Rustoleum or All-surface enamel. Bondo will work but I think there's another product out there that @Jmayspaint uses that is just as effective, sands more easily, and doesn't need mixed in order to use it. I can't recall the name right now.......


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

You might be thinking of spotting putty;

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...azing-Spot-Putty/?N=5002385+3293241079&rt=rud

It is good for minor dings and dents. Really only works well on shallow fills. Depending on how deep the imperfections are I might use regular Bondo to start and finish it up with the spotting putty. That’s basically how it’s used for body work I think, as a final touch to fix minor details. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Vylum (May 12, 2016)

odd door to request a mirror finish on


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## ParamountPaint (Aug 25, 2016)

Put a flap disc on a grinder to knock off the rust and feather the edges. If it is that important, you could finish sand it with a random orbital.

Rustoleum C740 will fix you right up. I would most certainly not use Coverstain on steel...plenty of good industrial primers for that.


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

@ParamountPaint - I am curious as to why you wouldn't use Coverstain as your primer and specifically what product(s) would be better...I have used coverstain and bondo many times on metal doors with good success. I chose Coverstain for the following reasons 1) it is approved for use on metal per product data sheet, 2). It has decent build and sandability to help smooth out what the sanding doesnt get 3) I have experience with it, 4)I keep it in inventory, and 5) Its a good multipurpose primer. I have limited experience with painting metal...just the occassional household metals. I would guess there are metal primers and topcoats designed to inhibit rust which is clearly a problem on these doors. Other factors include longevity of the finish as well as the expense of going with specialty products compared to what is being used on the rest of the house.


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## NACE (May 16, 2008)

Bilco doors have a very high iron content and are prone to heavy corrosion quickly and frequently. Bilco was manufactured in West Haven CT and the steel they used was low grade and the shop primer used for shipping purposes was very poor quality. I use to call on them before they moved to Ohio. The metal comes in contact with concrete that further complicates and accelerates the corrosion process. The under side of the doors condense, hold moisture, mildew, and hold dirt, leaves and moisture. I was tired of constantly maintaining my doors with alkyd enamels every spring so I overcompensated by grinding all Paint down to base metal after washing. Ground and chamfered sharp edges. Stripe coat of Epoxy Mastic on all edges, then full coat of mastic on all surfaces. Clear silicone sealant between concrete and metal. Top coat with two coats Aliphatic Urethane. Replaced fasteners with stainless. Complete and total overkill, but not one spot of rust or fade since 2005. At the very least, I would recommend a good quality rust inhibitive Universal Primer, and a high quality Urethane Alkyd. Coverstain will adhere but has no rust inhibitive characteristics. Good luck with your project.


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## New England painter (Apr 7, 2018)

Strip it!! Use a stripper..you can sand scrape patch the imperfections all day, and it still wouldn't pass for a mirror finish.


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## New England painter (Apr 7, 2018)

Extreme request call for extreme measures


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## Tprice2193 (Oct 3, 2017)

@NACE - Thanks for a thorough explanation of your process and reasoning. Thirteen years and counting...your overkill is no doubt cost effective in the long run. You made their product better than they designed it to be. I like to think I do the same thing on many of my cabinet jobs. I often question myself while doing it, but if it lasts 15 + years then it doesn't take an accountant to figure out that its worth it. The big plus is the satisfaction of a job well done... wonder if that HO would pay to have that type of finish applied? Or elect to pay for an inferior job 4 to 5 times...


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Nace hit the nail square on the head. And Never use a latex product on Bilco doors.


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## Lightningboy65 (Mar 12, 2018)

Wildbill7145 said:


> Edit: Well I'm completely wrong. Had never heard of Bilco before.


Wow, I would have never guessed that! In PA about every other home has Bilco doors. Funny how things can vary from region to region.


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