# Wallpaper directly on sheetrock



## Bender

Monday I have to look at a job (bathroom) that apparently had paper put directly on the sheetrock about 18 years ago. She started stripping it and is butchering the walls and now realizes she needs a pro. (Couldn't find one so she called me)

Anything in particular I should look for? Or just plan on reskimming and get after it? This is all the info I have right now.

Thanks


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## TooledUp

There's a risk of some of the remaining rock paper blistering no matter how well you prep. It might take one or two goes before it stops lifting. Once you've got it right I would put a lining paper on then it can either be painted or papered as required.

Once the wallpaper is off you might have to tear some of the rock paper off until it seems stable then flush it with mud. You will probably see some of that mud bubbling and lifting more of the rock paper so it's a matter of keep on digging it off and flushing till it stops.

Ohhh I hate those jobs...


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## [email protected]

The steps I take for this problem. First I cut around all of the semi loose drywall paper. peel that off. Take some course sand paper Like 3-m green sanding sponge sand what ever come off easy. Then put a coat of Gaurds on or Scottman (SP)sealer on then skim with mud. Just T& M other wise they will be in your wallet before it is done.


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## daArch

About the only successful way of getting wallpaper off raw rock (depending on the type of paper) is to roll some Roman Professional 880 on the paper and then put plastic (like a thin DIY drop) on top of that and let sit for a number of hours. For some reason this rewets the paper's adhesive without over saturating the raw rock and you can then GENTLY remove the paper.

If that just refuses to work, basically your only alternative is to make sure ALL the loose paper is off, seams sanded, and then prime with Draw-Tite or Gardz . Either of these products are also perfect for the damaged dry wall already existing. After priming with D-T/Gardz, patch appropriately and then prime again with D-T/Gardz. 

If the paper is vinyl coated, bust through the vinyl with 36 grit in a palm sander - or whatever.


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## Bender

Thanks all:thumbsup:

I will know more tomorrow.


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## chrisn

About the only successful way of getting wallpaper off raw rock (depending on the type of paper) is to roll some Roman Professional 880 on the paper and then put plastic (like a thin DIY drop) on top of that and let sit for a number of hours

I am wondering how this works better and or is cheaper than S&S?


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## daArch

I wonder also how it works, Chris. Sometimes we have to leave the explanation to the chemists and just accept success.


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## ParagonVA

One thing I always do after priming over the damaged sheetrock is sand lightly once it all has dried down sufficiently. All of the "fuzz" will harden after priming and need a quick sand _before_ you skim to facilitate the mud going on smoothly.

Arch- you mentioned the Roman Professional 880- do you know off hand what type of paper it _will_ work on?


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## daArch

ParagonVA said:


> Arch- you mentioned the Roman Professional 880- do you know off hand what type of paper it _will_ work on?


I'm not quite clear on the question. Do you mean for stripping in the manner I described? Any paper for that method as long as it can soak into the substrate and re-wet the existing adhesive. That's why a paper with a moisture barrier (vinyl coated or painted) needs that barrier broken down.

For installations? well now, that's a point of "discussion" amongst some of the best hangers in the country. Some use it for everything with fabulous results. Some have noticed it causes "blushing" and stains with lightly inked pulps and some of the new non-wovens. And some commercial installers claim it will cause little bubbling when used on a highly sealed walls when installing non-breathing commercial vinyl. 

But as I am wont to say, ask any three paperhangers one question and you will receive 4 or 5 different answers.


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## Bender

Follow up
False alarm. The walls were primed and sized(?) pasted(?)

Its a vinyl faced paper and the homeowner cant understand why the steamer she rented wont take it off, without perforating the sheet

Looking forward to using Bills suggestion of 36 grit sandpaper and an orbital:thumbsup:
My only concern is the brand new hardwood floors


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## daArch

Bender said:


> Follow up
> False alarm. The walls were primed and sized(?) pasted(?)
> 
> Its a vinyl faced paper and the homeowner cant understand why the steamer she rented wont take it off, without perforating the sheet
> 
> Looking forward to using Bills suggestion of 36 grit sandpaper and an orbital:thumbsup:
> My only concern is the brand new hardwood floors


That's why they make drop cloths :whistling2:

if you are concerned about the floor, tape plastic up to the base first, and then put your cloth drops on top. Against the base I place drops folded a number of times, to absorb the excess run off. ALSO, only MIST the paper, try your damnedest to spray only enough on to be absorbed by the paper with minimal run off. Yes, you will always get some run off, but keep it manageable


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## chrisn

, tape plastic up to the base first, and then put your cloth drops on top.

Not to be argumentative( me?) but I always put the drops under the plastic, then proceed as described


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## daArch

I think Zekich does something similar and then rolls the plastic up with all the scraps. I've tried but the plastic just gets too messy for me and sticks to my shoes and trips me and I hate putting ladders on plastic and ......

but you know what they say: whatever works best for you.


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## BrushJockey

'Nuther of my fav tricks- instead of a bug sprayer or a hand held sponge, get a sponge mop, cut the handle down to about 3'. Much more control of water, the physical contact gets better penetration, particularly with the first pass, and lots less waving your arms around.


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## daArch

BrushJockey said:


> 'Nuther of my fav tricks- instead of a bug sprayer or a hand held sponge, get a sponge mop, cut the handle down to about 3'. Much more control of water, the physical contact gets better penetration, particularly with the first pass, and lots less waving your arms around.


I am real happy to hear that SOMEone has success with that method. I've tried on a number of walls, and just could never make it work better than pumping and waving my arms around. 

BTW, there are sprayers that have electric powered pumps. Black and Decker made a good one powered by their Versa-Pak batteries, but no more. Mike Zekich of Safe and Simple has marketed two larger units over the years, but no more. I got an idea in my mind for one, but gave zero clue about auto turn on and shut off determined by pressure.


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## ParagonVA

BrushJockey said:


> 'Nuther of my fav tricks- instead of a bug sprayer or a hand held sponge, get a sponge mop, cut the handle down to about 3'. Much more control of water, the physical contact gets better penetration, particularly with the first pass, and lots less waving your arms around.


 
Good info, nice to know :thumbsup:


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## ParagonVA

daArch said:


> I'm not quite clear on the question. Do you mean for stripping in the manner I described? Any paper for that method as long as it can soak into the substrate and re-wet the existing adhesive. That's why a paper with a moisture barrier (vinyl coated or painted) needs that barrier broken down.
> 
> For installations? well now, that's a point of "discussion" amongst some of the best hangers in the country. Some use it for everything with fabulous results. Some have noticed it causes "blushing" and stains with lightly inked pulps and some of the new non-wovens. And some commercial installers claim it will cause little bubbling when used on a highly sealed walls when installing non-breathing commercial vinyl.
> 
> But as I am wont to say, ask any three paperhangers one question and you will receive 4 or 5 different answers.


thanks, sorry I didn't clarify the nature of the question. Your first paragraph answered it.


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## BrushJockey

daArch said:


> I am real happy to hear that SOMEone has success with that method. I've tried on a number of walls, and just could never make it work better than pumping and waving my arms around.
> 
> BTW, there are sprayers that have electric powered pumps. Black and Decker made a good one powered by their Versa-Pak batteries, but no more. Mike Zekich of Safe and Simple has marketed two larger units over the years, but no more. I got an idea in my mind for one, but gave zero clue about auto turn on and shut off determined by pressure.


Also- when I do want to pump water I use my HVLP dialed down for water instead of the splatter pump. If you already have it, it works great.


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## daArch

BrushJockey said:


> Also- when I do want to pump water I use my HVLP dialed down for water instead of the splatter pump. If you already have it, it works great.


Yah , you painters have all the cool toys. All I gots is a garden sprayer.


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## johnpaint

If you don't have a lot of things to work around you can also install 1/4" rock over existing walls.


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## chrisn

Also- when I do want to pump water I use my HVLP dialed down for water instead of the splatter pump. If you already have it, it works great.


*WARNING* Do not spray Diff in your sprayer and not wear a good respirator. Trust me.


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## daArch

chrisn said:


> *WARNING* Do not spray Diff in your sprayer and not wear a good respirator. Trust me.



That explians a lot :whistling2: :whistling2:


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## Bender

*My helper is a moron*

My helper is a moron

This was wimpy residential paper. It would have fell off the wall had he sanded it then let it soak through. Instead he just pulled harder.
MORON 

Its a T&M, not to exceed 7 hours

On the bright side I finally had a chance to use Gardz
Do you generally apply 2 coats or just one?

Moron


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## Workaholic

Bender said:


> My helper is a moron
> 
> This was wimpy residential paper. It would have fell off the wall had he sanded it then let it soak through. Instead he just pulled harder.
> MORON
> Moron


I keep telling you to stop hiring those day laborers that you have to drop back off at the jail every night. 
Live and learn


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## paintguy48

Workaholic said:


> I keep telling you to stop hiring those day laborers that you have to drop back off at the jail every night.
> Live and learn


:icon_lol: nice one.


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## Bender

I know I know, but its Mom
She'll be paroled in just 7 more years..


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## jason123

I worked on a deceased ladies house once and this place was old. everyhting was wallpapered even the frickin ceilings.. Some areas had wallpaper directly on gypsium board and that destroyed the gypsium. I had to skim coat all those areas. Whish I had this place around then.


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## painterdude

When I run into a paper removal job and I don't really take them anymore except really small stuff, I tell the homeower that whoever takes down the paper the walls my be ruined underneath do to poor prep work(over gwb or non primed or cheap builder paint). I give them the idea of simple solutions, cut, primed, light sand and orange peel, knockdown or swirl finish/skip trowel. It's actually easier for me than trying to skim coat and the H.O. is usually really happy with the upscale new look. Back in the day after doing so many with hand textures, other residents of the same community would just have me do the textures over good walls. JMHO..pd


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## DoneRightTom

*Indoor sanding*

Hey Y'all
I'm going to try the rolling of the Heavy Duty Clear on the backing, or the paper paper next time !
When you gotta sand indoors, try this, it get's me repeat busness.
When you can, put a 30 foot pool cleaning hose on some PVC fittings for your Shop Vac and a extention cord through a window!
Use the cord as a on/off switch, and hook it up to your sander if your "blasting through" the vinal, or sanding sheet rock mud.
The customer is always glad to hear that you can do a "dustless" sanding job for them!

Tom


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