# Wood Counter top Finish



## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

I'm installing new 1 1/2" oak counter tops in my kitchen and would like to find a more longer lasting finish than mineral oil without a build like a poly or UV varnish would provide.

I like the specs. of Rubio Monocoat LINK but have no knowledge of the product as I've never used it. I do like the repair aspect, since wood counter tops will tend to get beat up after a few years.

What I'm looking for is the enhancement appearance of mineral oil, with the natural wood look and great water resistance. Any recommendations? Clear stain maybe if it's FDA approved?


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

I'm not so sure I'd use oak for this application. Any area where the finish is compromised over time and comes into contact with moisture will blacken. That's why mostly maple is used for wood countertops.

As far as a finish goes, I'd either use a WB poly or lacquer, though personally I'd go with the poly. Using any type of oil finish on an oak counter top will require multiple coats and even then with the porosity range of oak, it will be difficult to get a uniform finish.

I've stated in other threads that I've had great luck using Varathane WB Floor Finish on these types of projects. Did a Dentists office and used it on all his woodwork. With the amount of cleaning and antiseptics used the finish has held up with no problems.


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## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

I think ML Campbell sells a WB Poly made for bar tops, so you know it's going to be pretty tough. Lacquer probably wouldn't be good enough for a countertop as they tend to see an awful lot of moisture.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Thanks. I'm attempting to find a system that would make the tops water resistant without any type of build up. That's why the Rubio Monocoat looked interesting. It's a one-coat system that soaks in and dries leaving no visible build-up on the surface.

I'm, personally, not adversed to a poly system and I'm currently doing a sample with Zinsser's "Quick 15" satin. It's my better half that would prefer the natural wood look if possible, but she's also flexible and realizes that might not be possible.


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## johnpaint (Sep 20, 2008)

Wolfgang said:


> I'm not so sure I'd use oak for this application. Any area where the finish is compromised over time and comes into contact with moisture will blacken. That's why mostly maple is used for wood countertops.
> 
> As far as a finish goes, I'd either use a WB poly or lacquer, though personally I'd go with the poly. Using any type of oil finish on an oak counter top will require multiple coats and even then with the porosity range of oak, it will be difficult to get a uniform finish.
> 
> I've stated in other threads that I've had great luck using Varathane WB Floor Finish on these types of projects. Did a Dentists office and used it on all his woodwork. With the amount of cleaning and antiseptics used the finish has held up with no problems.


yeah Oak has iron in it and when it get wet it will turn kind of blue, and discolor.


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I know it won't really look natural, but how about a clear epoxy? I did a bar in a restaurant six years back and it still looks great. We were able to mix it and just pour it on and let it self level, I imagine after it cured that it was at least a 1/8- 3/16 thick. Very tough finish. 

I can't imagine any other finish that wouldn't stain from stuff like wine grape juice or food coloring. Check out this site, and this one.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Hey VanDamme, I'm intrigued. Are you making them yourself? 

Wolfgang makes some good points. Also, do some reading on cutting boards and toxins given off by different woods. Maple is an all around stand up wood for these type of kitchen applications. 

I might be stating the obvious here, but be super careful around the dishwasher. Get the type that releases out the front and set the dishwasher slightly forward. Not the top front, the steam will expand and contract and bust your bull nose and wood within a month. 

I'll assume you know all about rough cutting, planing and jointing and such. Definitely incorporate support rods through the width of the counter. 

Great project, would love to see some pics as you go!


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## Wolverine (Apr 17, 2007)

Hi Guys,

Here is what you want:

www.earthpaint.net

Look at the wood finishes... Call them... They know wood and will get you to the right product.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Paint and Hammer said:


> Hey VanDamme, I'm intrigued. Are you making them yourself?


I'm in th process of loading up some of the kitchen pics. to PhotoBucket now.

I did not makes these tops. They are 1 1/2" solid oak tops from Ikea.

Thanks for the tip above the dishwasher! The complete bottom side of the counter will be sealed w/Poly and also have a barrier shield installed.

Everything in the pic. below is just temped in for fitting and so we can use it while I knock out a couple of paint jobs.


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

Great!

They come unfinished from IKEA? Didn't know that.

My wife would be jealous of that farm sink. 

Are you sure they are oak? It doesn't 'really' matter at this point, but typically IKEA carries more birch, beech, maple. 

If it is one of these and not oak, (this is without seeing the wood) do a fairly rough sand (120) to open up the grains to accept the finish. Of course do a test sand some where first. These have tight grain (there is a 'term' that escapes me right now)...basically treat the wood like a semi or gloss finish before a re-coat. 

You may experience a fairly rough uncharacteristic finish after your first coat. Don't panic...sometimes new exposed wood grains, 'stand up' from the moisture of the first coat. (more so with latex finishes) Just knock it down and recoat. 

Then again, coming from IKEA its probably more finished than something coming from your shop.

Nice style of kitchen. Update how you choose to finish it and your results.


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

*"Are you sure they are oak?"*

Ikea oak countertops Yup...Posative :thumbup:


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## ajpace (Jan 6, 2008)

We've had great results using a 2-part urethane from AFM Safecoat. Its not listed on their website, as they only sell it through their commercial dealers. We've used it on wood, cork, Kirei, bamboo...even concrete countertops. Contact AFM directly for more information. http://www.afmsafecoat.com


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## Paint and Hammer (Feb 26, 2008)

VanDamme said:


> *"Are you sure they are oak?"*
> 
> Ikea oak countertops Yup...Posative :thumbup:


Ya ok, I kinda winced writing that, but thought I should ask....'in case'. 

Kinda of like asking..."sure your driving a ______?"


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## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

*"Kinda of like asking..."sure your driving a ______?""*

Great! Now you made me go look at what I'm driving to be sure! :laughing:


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## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Those are really nice looking butcher block tops man. Post up some pics when you get it done.


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