# Some advise please



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Would like some opinions on these doors, wood and metal. 

I painted these over 10 years ago, and just finish repainting the exterior of the barn last week. Owner wants me to see if I can get these metal bars refinished, and the oak boards finished. They never were.

The really bad parts are pictured here, and they rusted mostly where the feed trough is because they have salt licks there as well. 

I was thinking a mechanical rust stripping, rusty metal primer and finish. Not sure how ospho would work. Also what suggestions would you have to clean the oak, gonna go clear on it most likely so as clean and new as possible on it.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

We did a new horse barn last year. The salt licks were an immediate problem. We relocated them, sorry horses. I think you are in for a pleasing blend of pressure washing, grinding, sanding and cleaning. I would use an exterior grade penetrating oil on the boards. And a badass dtm or somthing on the steel.


----------



## bikerboy (Sep 16, 2007)

If you can, unbolt/remove the bars and have them sand/bead blasted.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Unfortunately removing the bars and doors and offsite prep isn't an option. I suggested the owner to powder coat them originally but they didn't listen, and I did all the finish on the metal after installation.

I suppose I will end up with a drill or grinder removing the rust that way. If it were in the budget to site blast I would do it.

As far as the penetrating oil for the oak what would be some product brand suggestions? Something similar to a porch and floor product? As far as the prep am I really limited to wash, and sanding? Is there a bleaching product that I can use?


----------



## mblosik (Jan 3, 2009)

grind down the rust....three coats of sw's macroepoxy 646 on the metal---great stuff....
then, for the oak: cretowood's stuff has done wonders for older stuff; hell, and newer stuff...any wood with cracks like your pics have...
cretowood.net
as far as bleach....never use straight bleach as it damages the cellulose fibers in wood...has to be oxygenated bleach...ABR's weathered wood restorer.....or sanding it; either way make sure you get those dead wood gray fibers off there; or nothing will penetrate or stick. good luck!:thumbsup:


----------



## CApainter (Jun 29, 2007)

When I can't remove an item, or am restricted from blasting, I'll use a needle gun to remove the rust scale. This is followed up with grinding, wire brushing, or any other tool that helps clean, and helps create a profile. 

I have found Devoe's 235 Bar Rust to be an excellent surface tolerant epoxy that is designed for the conditions you posted. They also have a penetrating rust converter,(Devoe#167), that can be used to help with severe conditions.

I will usually top coat with Devoe Devthane 379 polyurethane if there are UV issues, but Acrylic DTM can be used over the epoxy, as I understand it.

The point is, this is probably a job for epoxy.


----------



## Rudy (Jul 20, 2009)

*you would want to use the Klean Strip Marine Stripper on this metal surface.WWW.klean*

You would want to use the Klean Strip Marine stripperfor these metal posts. www.kleanstrip.com


straight_lines said:


> Would like some opinions on these doors, wood and metal.
> 
> I painted these over 10 years ago, and just finish repainting the exterior of the barn last week. Owner wants me to see if I can get these metal bars refinished, and the oak boards finished. They never were.
> 
> ...


----------



## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

I would use a grinding wheel, with a wire wheel attached and remover all the rust with that


----------



## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

For the oak you should use some wood bleach then use a power washer, making sure you don't have it up too high, nor have to close


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Diversers that is pretty much what I was thinking, a lot work to prep that metal I am afraid. I have never used wood bleach before, or it has been long enough that I have forgotten about it so was really unsure about it. 

I guess epoxy it is on the metal, and oil for the oak. Thanks to everyone who posted.


----------



## summertime14 (May 4, 2009)

I use wood brighteners from pressure washing supply companies and they can work some miracles on grayed out wood. I have had success with Armstrong Clark and I recommend you look into them for a sealer, just check the sealer store online.

There will be a lot of different thoughts on the metal. This is what I would do if I was doing the work. If blasting is out, I would remove the as much rust as possible by grinding/sanding/scraping. Then treat with osphos, Devoes rust penetrating primer and maybe SW sher kryl or a similar DTM or industrial grade enamel. I am not familiar with Industrial work so I would take to heart the recommendations of epoxy or other finishes by those that are familiar with them. Good luck.

oh, you may need to sand the wood after removing the gray, or you may have a fuzzy finish.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

So for the brighter would you suggest flood, zinnser, or another brand?


----------



## Quaid? (Mar 13, 2009)

Ben Moore Restore works wonders


----------



## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

wood bleach/brightener same stuff, but make sure you let it dry completely and sand it down before putting a sealer over it.


----------



## Diversers (Aug 2, 2009)

take pic so we can see the finish product


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

So I finally got around to working on this project. Got the oak finished and the metal is all prep'ed and ready for a finish coat. I wore out three wire brushes on the drill getting these looking this good. One of them really should have been replaced, but the owner is happy that I could do what I did.


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

what did you use for the metal? Personally, I would have ground the rust off the metal or as much as you could (if you couldn't bead blast it) and used POR15 on it and then topcoated that with an epoxy. They will more than likely get rust withing the first year.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I did grind the rust off using a wire wheel, and some 50 grit. It was just that pitted in those spots where the salt lick were, the rust was gone. That is primer galvite what my SW rep suggested. Top coat will be epoxy. 

It better not freakin rust in a year. That bottom pic is the one I wanted to replace it was that bad.


----------



## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

That looks great!


----------



## nEighter (Nov 14, 2008)

So they had you use that primer for litely rusted metal? Well it should be good for a bit then, the only thing is the water that will pool on the wood, it will get under that coating and flake it up. taking it off and doing the bottom side would be the only way I know of *aside from caulking the metal to wood joints* to keep it from happening. You did a stellar job though man. Did you say what you used on the wood?


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

nEighter said:


> Did you say what you used on the wood?


 I didn't and I originally was gonna use a penetrating oil and leave it at that. But after I used the wood brighter and gave it a good washing it just didn't clean up as well as I had hoped. Also even though I didn't beat it up washing it was pretty fuzzy so there was a lot of sanding. 

So the owner and I talked and we decided to stain and finish with spar, it is white oak, and he wanted something darker. It has two coats now and will get a third after I finish the metal. As far as water getting under that metal it will have to blow rain sideways to get anywhere but on the ends of the barn which were still in very good shape. The edge of the roof is 18 feet away in that pic even though it looks closer. 


RCP said:


> That looks great!


Thanks I am proud of how its turning out.


----------



## brushmonkey (Jan 4, 2010)

Wow SL! Like night & day. Looks great :thumbsup: Isnt wood finishing just a hoot! :jester:


----------



## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Hope you took lots of pix, that would make a great project for a profile or video, or on your website. The fact that you painted it 10 years ago and are still maintaining it speaks volumes.


----------



## VanDamme (Feb 13, 2010)

Wow! Great job! Would like to see after the bars get epoxied.


----------



## Rcon (Nov 19, 2009)

Thats looking great straight lines! Awesome job cleaning up that wood and metal - it almost looked beyond repair. It's jobs like this one that you remember! :thumbsup:


----------



## BC_Painter (Feb 14, 2010)

I like it

Get us some pics after epoxy!


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Looks good, major improvement. :thumbsup:


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Finally had some time to get over and take some finish pictures. Turned out great and the owner is so happy. 










































Sleepy dog agrees.. job well done. Time for a nap now. :thumbup:


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

Wow, looks great! :thumbsup:


----------



## RCP (Apr 18, 2007)

Very nicely done!:notworthy:
Love the dog!


----------



## Workaholic (Apr 17, 2007)

Great job. :thumbup:


----------



## AztecPainting (Jan 28, 2010)

Amazing Job, well done, it look awesome!!!


----------



## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

What a difference! I can just imagine how labor intensive that must have been. Nevertheless, a job you can be proud of.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Thanks for the complements guys. Can a mod correct the typo in the title I just noticed it should be advice not advise. Doh.


----------

