# Stripping clear coat, exterior oil based spar



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Working on a bid for our local bank and the ceilings are all pine t&g. Really bad mold that has been coated over. I remember threads about stripping overhead. Searched but couldn't find what I am looking for. 


There are over 1200 square of ceilings that will need to be stripped. I am looking for help getting material costs and production rates to downstream hd-80/power solve. I am preparing a bid to paint these as well. 

Pics


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

I cannot really help you on this one. I would be guess that a downstreamable stripper would not be strong enough for a spar varnish. 

I would make up a sample sheet of ply at my shop to try first and see if it would remove it.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I put in a call to a pro I have worked with before today. He assures me it can be done, but its nasty stuff working overhead with.


----------



## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

What's on there now?


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Its oil spar urethane.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Sodium hydroxide overhead is just not much fun. I would probably prefer to remove it mechanically rather than chemically.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I thought about it Scott and I wouldn't hesitate to if not for the v groove. My guys would hate me after sanding overhead for two days. 

I will sub it out if we go the stripper route.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

Painters are prima donnas.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I sanded miratek columns for about three hours yesterday and I am so sore right now.


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> I sanded miratek columns for about three hours yesterday and I am so sore right now.


Hydration is key.


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Based on the do painters drink too much thread, hydration must not be an issue for most here.


----------



## PressurePros (May 6, 2007)

straight_lines said:


> Its oil spar urethane.


Eeeesh. I got caught on a project that I thought was a clear and some boneheaded painter used a urethane (on a deck). I threw everything at it and it would not come off. We ended up applying a solid over it. Not sure if it was an oil or waterborne product but it was the worst strip i ever encountered.

Have your sub do a sample spot to make sure he isn't getting in over his head (no pun intended) and don't be surprised if the cost is $2,500+


----------



## vermontpainter (Dec 24, 2007)

DeanV said:


> Based on the do painters drink too much thread, hydration must not be an issue for most here.


I meant H2O.


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

Thanks, a PTer will get the call if it gets chemically stripped so I will make sure it gets budgeted right. No way around it if they want to stay clear. One good thing is I know it didn't get the required three coats.


----------



## aaron61 (Apr 29, 2007)

Might get a much nicer look and could be cheaper to install new


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

aaron61 said:


> Might get a much nicer look and could be cheaper to install new


I agree with Vermont that using chemical strippers overhead would be awful, especially caustics. OTOH, we've mechanically stripped a bunch of soffit and I'll never do that again. I think going new would me my suggestions as well. 

Nailing the stuff up is a whole lot easier these days, what with air nailers and all.


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

Cost for new 6" t&g of around $1800 for 1,200 sq. ft.

Prefinish in shop instead over overhead work sanding, stripping etc.

Only downside as a carpentry challenged person is reinstalling since the crown is not a simple 90º corner. But, reusing existing should make it easy.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

DeanV said:


> Cost for new 6" t&g of around $1800 for 1,200 sq. ft.
> 
> Prefinish in shop instead over overhead work sanding, stripping etc.
> 
> Only downside as a carpentry challenged person is reinstalling since the crown is not a simple 90º corner. But, reusing existing should make it easy.


How about a penetrating sealer rather than a film-forming product this time around?


----------



## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

For more budget oriented jobs, we do that on ceilings. We have done that on NC work for porches before, but then someone complains it is not glossy every once in a while.

Time saver on this one for sure. Save on sanding, coats, etc.


----------



## Schmidt & Co. (Nov 6, 2008)

I think it would look particularly swell if it were painted. :yes:


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

DeanV said:


> For more budget oriented jobs, we do that on ceilings. We have done that on NC work for porches before, but then someone complains it is not glossy every once in a while.
> 
> Time saver on this one for sure. Save on sanding, coats, etc.


Not to mention shoulders and necks....


----------



## eews (Apr 18, 2007)

I don't think a caustic stripper will be very effective on spar varnish. Much better to use a standard MC remover. It will go fast, and you'll get the wood really clean.

and you won't have to work about chemical burns on the wood, or Ph shifts that could cause finish failure.


----------



## wfduggan (Mar 8, 2014)

I like the replace idea, I like the paint idea. That said, if you go with strip and recoat, use a marine grade clear, it will handle the time and moisture much better. obviousely do a test first.

pressurePro: that's probably what you encountered.


----------



## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

straight_lines said:


> Working on a bid for our local bank and the ceilings are all pine t&g. Really bad mold that has been coated over. I remember threads about stripping overhead. Searched but couldn't find what I am looking for.
> 
> 
> There are over 1200 square of ceilings that will need to be stripped. I am looking for help getting material costs and production rates to downstream hd-80/power solve. I am preparing a bid to paint these as well.
> ...


What about blasting it with acorns? Never done it, but it shouldn't damage the substrate but should remove the varnish. 

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


----------



## straight_lines (Oct 17, 2007)

I did a test area and it cleaned up easily with a strong mix.

Haven't landed the work yet.


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> What about blasting it with acorns? Never done it, but it shouldn't damage the substrate but should remove the varnish.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


Even the softer organic blast media like walnut shells or ground corn cob remove a fair amount of the substrate, especially early wood.


----------



## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Gough said:


> Even the softer organic blast media like walnut shells or ground corn cob remove a fair amount of the substrate, especially early wood.


Yeah, same idea, probably more than what the client would want to pay though. That method is typically used for graffiti, stainless steel, or any substrate where it can't be damaged

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


----------



## Gough (Nov 24, 2010)

journeymanPainter said:


> Yeah, same idea, probably more than what the client would want to pay though. That method is typically used for graffiti, stainless steel, or any substrate where it can't be damaged
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


For our clients, the expense wasn't the issue, but the appearance of the wood afterwards was problematic. Even the corn cob media eroded a noticeable amount of early wood.


----------



## journeymanPainter (Feb 26, 2014)

Gough said:


> For our clients, the expense wasn't the issue, but the appearance of the wood afterwards was problematic. Even the corn cob media eroded a noticeable amount of early wood.


Really? I was in the understanding that these natural abrasives wouldn't leave any damage (peaks and Valleys). Maybe sponges are the way to go? Still leave the peaks and Valleys, but might not be that bad

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk


----------

