# Best brush to tip off Advance?



## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I've used the Corona tynex/orel brushes with pretty good success, but I wonder if there is anything better? SW has a nice white china bristle brush...I know it's for oils but I would think it might work well for Advance, too.


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## Epoxy Pro (Oct 7, 2012)

The SW White China Bristles work ok in Advanced, they tend to flare out after a couple hours. I found the black oil brushes lay it on nicely.


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I love my Purdy clear cut angle brushes for the advance and pro classic. They have purplish bristles, silver ferrell, and are the absolute best for laying on a flawless brushed finish.


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## slinger58 (Feb 11, 2013)

China bristle doesn't fare well in waterborne paint.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

AngieM said:


> I love my Purdy clear cut angle brushes for the advance and pro classic. They have purplish bristles, silver ferrell, and are the absolute best for laying on a flawless brushed finish.


I am voting for this also.:thumbsup:


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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

I like the straight Tynex Coronas a little better that the Tynex/Orel blend for that. The red nylon bristles. They're a little softer, and a little finer too I think. 


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I never would have guessed a clearcut for trim. As the name implies, I would assume they would be good for cutting (pretty stiff too, if I recall). Bought one once for that purpose didn't care for it. 


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

Wooster Chinex FTP. I didn't expect that brush to be as good as it is, but lays off Advance, Muralo Ultra, etc. very well (at least in my experience). Cleans up stupid easy as well. 


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## AngieM (Apr 13, 2016)

I have a Wooster chinex ftp 3" for cutting in. Love that brush too. Cleans like a dream.


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## PRC (Aug 28, 2014)

Corona Vegas


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## TrueColors (Jul 30, 2010)

Coronas all the time. Trim and walls 


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## PACman (Oct 24, 2014)

anything chinex. E&J Gen x would be my recommendation. The Wooster Chinex is a good choice as is the Corona chinex.


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I went with the Corona Yuma. 3" straight Tynex bristles. 

I have used Tynex only many times for advance but for some reason thought I was using the Tynex/Orel blend. 

I can't wrap my head around chinex for good tip offs. Those bristles are very fat comparatively. 

The chairs are looking good so far. The brush strokes are not completely disappearing but good enough. I'd take a picture but looks like Tapatalk want me to sign up for something. Again. 




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## Jmayspaint (Mar 26, 2013)

804 Paint said:


> I went with the Corona Yuma. 3" straight Tynex bristles.
> 
> I have used Tynex only many times for advance but for some reason thought I was using the Tynex/Orel blend.
> 
> ...



Yeah I really like Chinex bristle brushes, the Woosters and the Coronas both. They make great general purpose utility brushes. They're right in the middle on firmness, and as has been mentioned, they clean up easily. 

Hard to beat nylon for the smoothest finish though. The bristles are just so much finer and softer. 



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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

I pretty much use chinex for priming because they clean up so easily. Or if I have to get a brush in something for just a sec. I've done trim and cut in walls with them and never been impressed with the finish or the ease of cutting lines. 


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

Ok...here we go. Probably can't see brush strokes from the picture but they are there. I wonder if the darker colors don't lay out as nicely. SOME of it is because the primer didn't sand that well (SW Extreme Bond)...or rather doesn't lay nicely with a brush. I sanded with 220 then 350 but truthfully I could have spent a lot more time sanding to get them perfectly smooth. The primer does powder up but I could only spend so much time sanding the primer coat. 

But anyway, I'm certain the other part is Advance not laying down as nicely as I have had it before on trim and doors. Don't get me wrong, the chairs look great, they just don't have the sprayed look. 

Going to let them sit a day before sanding and second coat. 

Probably shoulda put this in the other thread? Oh well...











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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

I've only used the Wooster FTP on modern, waterbourne trim paints (Advance, Muralo Ultra, etc.). Even the cover states something like, "for today's paints"? Not sure why the thicker bristle works as well as it does with that type product, but does for me. For wall paints and and standard (old school latex) trim paint--I choose a different brush. 


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## Shake_that_bucket (Aug 22, 2016)

The Purdy Nylox brush works nice for me. It's a softer bristle like the natural bristle ones are, but works excellent for water based paints like Advance and ProClassic. 

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## PNW Painter (Sep 5, 2013)

The ProForm Blaze has been my go to brush for Advance and SW Waterborne Alkyd Urethane. The filaments are supple and work well for tipping off these type paints. The oval ferrel also holds a lot more paint compared to other "trim" brushes I've tried. This makes a huge difference when you have to brush out a section because you're not having to constantly reload your brush.

I've tried the Purdy Syntox and it works well for tipping Advance. The ferrel is very thin so it doesn't hold much paint when you're brushing trim and I felt like I was having to constantly reload the brush.




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## stl911 (Jul 16, 2014)

804 Paint said:


> Ok...here we go. Probably can't see brush strokes from the picture but they are there. I wonder if the darker colors don't lay out as nicely. SOME of it is because the primer didn't sand that well (SW Extreme Bond)...or rather doesn't lay nicely with a brush. I sanded with 220 then 350 but truthfully I could have spent a lot more time sanding to get them perfectly smooth. The primer does powder up but I could only spend so much time sanding the primer coat.
> 
> But anyway, I'm certain the other part is Advance not laying down as nicely as I have had it before on trim and doors. Don't get me wrong, the chairs look great, they just don't have the sprayed look.
> 
> ...


just wondering how much you charge to paint those chairs. i never realize they can be painted


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## radio11 (Aug 14, 2015)

stl911 said:


> just wondering how much you charge to paint those chairs. i never realize they can be painted




Those are special molar chairs and probably wasn't cheap. 


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## 804 Paint (Jan 31, 2014)

The chairs cost $300 each. I charged $100 each to paint them. 

I'm really hoping Advance cures as hard in this dark color as it does in white. When I was testing other products that weren't curing as fast as I had been told they would, I went around my house and tried to gouge all the different things I have painted with Advance and none of it came off. 


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## Seattlepainting (Jun 8, 2010)

Ovals for waterbased paints.. available in EU. I brought back 3 dozen from the Netherlands when I visited the FPE factory.


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## chrisn (Jul 15, 2007)

By my count only 11 brushes will work:whistling2:


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## Paint My Property (Sep 10, 2016)

We like to use "foam brushes" to tip off enamel and varnishes.
It's best to wet the brush with mineral turpentine firts then squeeze it all ot and it will tipp off to perfection


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## Lakesidex (Oct 9, 2011)

For tipping off Advance I've been using the Ben Moore Soft bristle. 
Only lasts about a half a day and its flat but the 3" is nice on those masonite 6 panel doors.
Usually get away with 1 primer 1 finish in the satin.


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## salmangeri (Sep 13, 2008)

Corona excalibur....and for siding we tip with corona chinex 4" brush


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## Chuck the painter (Sep 16, 2015)

I'm a corona fan for irregular surfaces however, the proforma blaze & Picasso are my go to standards. They hold more paint and have a clean sharp edge.

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## Exactoman (Mar 28, 2013)

I second Ben moore soft bristle 2.5". It's perfect for advance. Also make sure you're adding water to advance, as it helps it flow so much better!!!
The e&j Chinex are awesome too.


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