# Is there a clearcoat that can applied over paint?



## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

Trying to find out if there is a clear that can be applied over paint. I'm painting kitchen cabinents and wan't put a clear over it for better protection and durability. They will be a satin to a matte finish.


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

In the past when I had done some faux finish work. I would apply a WB Poly to help protect and add some depth. I use Olympic WB poly. which I purchase at Porter Paints here locally. Lowe's may carry it as well. It is a non-yellowing product and is available in a satin. May I ask what your finish coat is?


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## daren (Jul 5, 2008)

minwax polycrylic works like a charm


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## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

This will be my first set of cabinents that I will be painting! My original plan is to finish sand with 220 grit sandpaper, next apply an oil-based primer from SW, then paint with SW satin paint #6871 positive red, and last put on a clear protective coating for durability and longevity! 
This is my plan and hope it is the correct way to go about it. If there is a better of way of doing this I would appreiciate it some insight on it, Thanks


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## Roadog (Apr 18, 2007)

http://www.insl-x.com/viewProd.asp?prodID=180


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## ParagonVA (Feb 3, 2009)

Roadog said:


> http://www.insl-x.com/viewProd.asp?prodID=180


this stuff sounds like it could be pretty good- have you or anyone else here applied this yet? It states that you can apply over melamime and formica without a primer :blink:

As far as the OP goes, I like StaysClear by BM low luster, only if your finish paint is latex though.


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## tomthepainter (May 2, 2009)

ACPINTER said:


> Trying to find out if there is a clear that can be applied over paint. I'm painting kitchen cabinents and wan't put a clear over it for better protection and durability. They will be a satin to a matte finish.


I have also used Miniwax polycrlic with great success, just make sure to use a de-glosser to ensure good bonding


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## tomthepainter (May 2, 2009)

I have used Minwax polyacrlic with great success, just make sure to degloss to ensure good adhesion


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## BrushJockey (Mar 15, 2009)

If you prepped right and use a top notch paint, the clear coat will be unneeded. And it will slightly change the color. And be harder to touch up later if needed.


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

Are you going to be distressing the cabinets to expose edges with a different color? But then it doesn't sound like it. If these cabinets have some age, I would be sure to wash them with Dirtex or TSP for any grease buildup. Do this with a 3M green scrub pad and it will help knock the shine down as well. I usually follow with oil prime and a oil finish just for the strength in a high traffic kitchen. I know with high odor's and long drying times makes it hard. If I need to use a latex I've been using Pittsburgh Paints Manor Hall Semigloss, it lays down great with a brush application and drys to a nice hard finish with the resins it contains. It does come in what they call a Pearl sheen (satin).Check out their wab page for product data info http://www.pittsburghpaints.com . In my years of custom work I've never used a clear coat over a paint finish on kitchen cabinets unless I was distressing the edges.


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

Also another note. If this is a high end customer and or a large project. Be sure to work up samples. This will go a long way with your customer and help with color and sheen visuals for the final outcome. You may consider to have them sign off on it when agreed.


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## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

These cabinets are new custom cabinets that are being built on site. The house is probably on the high end of $3 million dollars. The color of the cabinets will be a solid SW positive red that will be in a flat to satin finish. They won't be distressed just a solid color so thats why I wan't put a clear protectant over it!


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

I'm not familiar with the color as I don't use SW products. With raw wood, you could use a latex prime coat like Zinser 123 or stay with the oil prime. Please do not use Bin or Kilz in oil or alcohol base. They just dry to fast and don't get very good penetration in the wood fibers for adhesion. Go with the satin sheen and make it a 3 coat system on new wood. 1 coat primer/sealer and 2 coats of finish color. Scrape the clear coat its over kill. .

Good Luck


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## admirableptg (Oct 23, 2008)

*modern masters*

Best stuff but expensive. 120 a gal. top coat in 2 hrs.. dry 2 touch in 30 min. best stuff on the market hands down..:notworthy:


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

I meant to ask what type of finish coat with the SW red are you thinking about, latex or oil?


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## ACPINTER (Apr 21, 2009)

I used latex on a sample that I did. The satin doesn't seem to be a durable enough finish. I had a meeting with the contractor and he also agreed that it's not durable enough, so I'm gonna try a different sheen.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

What latex product did you use?


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## paintguy48 (May 1, 2009)

When you did the sample, did you apply 3 coats.1 coat primer/sealer and 2 coats finish. As this will show the true sheen and full color on the product. Yeah, good question on Deans part, which latex product.


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## LAD (Apr 3, 2009)

I'm with brushjockey, use a higher quality of paint, regardless of sheen, and forget the clear coat. If you must apply something I'd go with a paste wax like Liberon.
If you absolutely have to put a topcoat I'd go with Faux Effects Varnish plus or their C-500 urethane. pretty much bulletproof.


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## DeanV (Apr 18, 2007)

The only reason IMHO a clear coat MAY be needed, is because of all the tint in a Red color, neutral base paint and if it is a kitchen or bathroom cabinet. But my first thought would be to use Aura instead of a clear coat.


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## brushmstr (Feb 15, 2009)

We professionally finish kitchen cabinets all the time and use a clearcoat quite often. Generally to protect glazing and distressing. I would use it on red because of the amount of pigment. Try a high end waterbourne lacquer such as Target or ML Campbell. More expensive product but far better than typical finishes. Good Luck


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## Boden Painting (Dec 27, 2007)

I'd spray an enamel undercoater followed by a light sand and then spray a good quality topcoat. I do all my built-ins this way and they come out like glass.


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